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Photo: Göran Assner, Henrik Trygg, Jurgen Wickert, Urban Jören, Frank Heuer.

Gothenburg and West Sweden

Your guide to Sweden

Sweden

Friendly urbanity

Stockholm, Gothenburg & Malmö — modern cities close to nature

A Swedish culinary voyage A flavourful journey from the apple groves of Skåne to the mountain creeks of Lapland

Gothenburg by the sea

Set off on a seafood safari

Thriving culture in Gothenburg

Camilla Läckberg’s Fjällbacka

Swedish stories from fairy tales to “Swede-crime”

www.gothenburg.com

www. westsweden.com @WestSwedenTB facebook.com/GothenburgWestSweden

Welcome to Fjällbacka — a jewel of the west coast!


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Cruise control to Sweden Taking your car to Sweden? Let us share the driving. With a choice of short routes and frequent crossings or longer overnight journeys, you can decide how much time you want to spend driving and how much time you’d like to spend onboard. When you see our fabulous ferries, you’ll wonder why you never took this route before! Remember, book early to get the best fares.

www.stenaline.co.uk or call 08447 70 70 70

04 Stockholm — the city on fourteen islands 10 Gothenburg — city of the sea 12 Malmö — gateway to the continent 14 Sweden goes gay 15 A  vibrant, contemporary and creative tradition 20 My Swedish food trip 26 See Sweden from the sun deck 28 Swedish stories — from fairy tales to ”Swede-crime” 34 Become a child again 36 Nature — Sweden’s national religion 40 Nature’s Best — experiences on nature’s terms 42 Swedish gems 44 Travel facts 45 Accommodation 46 Transportation 47 Tour operators 47 Regional tourist boards 48 Scheduled air routes 49 Ferry routes 50 Map

VisitSweden Stortorget 2 − 4 SE-831 30 Östersund, Sweden Tel (UK): 020 7108 6168 E-mail: uk@visitsweden.com Fax: +46 63-12 81 37

Sweden — the best of both worlds First-timers to Sweden are typically struck by two things. Firstly, the country’s progressiveness in every respect — from technology, design, fashion and lifestyle to consumption habits and societal systems. And secondly, an authenticity in the natural world, and in the Swedish people’s fondness for their history, heritage, customs and traditions.   We often boast that Sweden offers the best of both worlds — all the benefits and attractions of contemporary society, but few of its common disadvantages. If you’ve ­visited ­Sweden you know what we mean. Welcome to ­Sweden — the country we love.

Tel (Ireland): 01 247 5440 E-mail: ireland@visitsweden.com Opening hours: 8:00 − 17:00 (Central European Time)

Sweden 2013 was printed by an environmentallycertified printer, on chlorine-free bleached paper, which is produced from FSC-certified pulp. This means the pulp comes from environmentally appropriate, ­socially beneficial and economically viable forestry ­operations.


City break 4

Stockholm — the city on fourteen islands The royal Swedish capital of Stockholm is frequently referred to as one of the world’s most attractive cities. Its beauty is a result of its magnificent location, spread across fourteen islands in the heart of the spectacular Stockholm Archipelago. The combination of dramatic beauty, historic splendour and contemporary buzz gives Stockholm its unique attraction.

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Top: The world’s most beautiful city? View of the medieval island Riddar­ holmen and the Old Town, the waterways flowing out to the Stockholm ­Archipelago, and the tower of the City Hall in the foreground. Classic Svenskt Tenn, one of Stockholm’s foremost furniture, design and gift shops. Outdoor cafe at the picturesque Mosebacke Square in the chic, bohemian ­district of Södermalm.

In Stockholm you can experience the history and ­culture of several of our country’s great eras, from the Middle Ages on. The Stockholm of today is a dynamic, fast-growing, multicultural city. It is recognised internationally as a leader in the development of progressive innovations, trends and behaviour patterns in lifestyle, environment and, in particular, technology and communications. We often boast that Stockholm has all the advantages and assets of a contemporary world centre with few of the downsides and nuisances. Stockholm offers an enormous diversity of experiences, sights, attractions and night-life. In terms of fashion, art, ­design, gastronomy and other creative pursuits, the Stockholm scene has — justifiably — received plenty of publicity on the global stage in recent years. Today the city has two distinct nodes of urban creativity, ­culture and entertainment: one is the chic, established district around the squares of Stureplan and Norrmalmtorg, the city centre and exclusive Östermalm, and the ­other is the younger, trendier, more ­experimental and ­bohemian Södermalm. Still, what sets Stockholm apart most of all is its ­incomparable juxtaposition of sophisticated urbanism and wild, majestic nature. Untouched wilderness and magnificent marine worlds surround and crisscross Stockholm in all directions, including Ekoparken, the only urban national park of its kind in the world. The city’s extensive stretches of coastline, whether quayside or forested, are accessible for a stroll — or why not paddle a kayak alongside them, or navigate between them on ice skates in the winter. The water that ­surrounds the city is clean enough to swim in and fish from. Stockholm is a metropolis where you can enjoy the outdoors literally steps from a vibrant urbanity — and vice versa. It’s a happy combination that gives Stockholm a quality of life you won’t find elsewhere.   www.visitsweden.com www.visitstockholm.com

Al fresco relaxation at Lydmar Hotel, just across the water from the Royal Palace.

Waiting staff at the popular Boqueria restaurant in the new Mood shopping centre, which serves quick, tasty modern and traditional tapas. www.boqueria.se Other dining suggestions: Frantzén/Lindeberg — a small ­restaurant in the Old Town, with a big reputation for innovative cooking and two Michelin stars, aiming for a third. Ranked as ­Sweden’s best restaurant. www.frantzen-lindeberg.com Gubbhyllan at Skansen. Classic Swedish fare with an elegant modern twist. Local, organic ­ingredients are prepared with love, in a fascinating historical environment. www.gubbhyllan.se


City of green and blue

Stockholm’s Gems

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1. Moderna Museet One of the world’s foremost museums of modern art. The collection of international pop art is world renowned. Marcel Duchamp and Picasso are well represented. Of course this is also the place for everyone with an interest in contemporary Swedish art. Located in central Stockholm, on the museum island of Skepps­ holmen, which previously belonged to the Navy. The island is an idyllic destination for a walk, with several interesting museums, restaurants and cafés. The ­Moderna has a sister museum in Malmö. www.modernamuseet.se 2. Skansen The world’s oldest and possibly most beautiful open-air museum, with a collection of historical buildings from various periods and many parts of the country. Located on Royal Djurgården island in the National City Park, with fantastic views of the city. There’s also a zoo with Swedish animals, a children’s zoo, traditional crafts, restaurants, cafés, a market, traditional Christmas celebrations, entertainment venues and many other attractions. A must-see! www.skansen.se 3. Drottningholm A common misconception is that Drottningholm Palace, the residence of the Swedish royal family, is a Scandinavian replica of Versailles. The fact is, the two are contemporaneous. Drottningholm was built as early as the late 17th century. The palace and park, as well as the unique palace theatre, are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Another gem is the Chinese Pavilion, a gift from King Adolf Frederick to Queen Louisa Ulrika on her birthday in 1753. Drottningholm is a wonderful

destination that can also be reached by boat from c­ entral Stockholm. www.kungahuset.se 4. Stockholm Archipelago Yes, Stockholm is fantastic. But many people would ­argue that the city's most magnificent attraction is the unique expanse of islands surrounding it: the Stockholm Archipelago, with more than 30,000 islands and islets. It ­offers an extraordinary wealth of natural experiences, adventures, destinations and sights, accessible more or less throughout the year. From central Stockholm you can access the entire archipelago on the classic white steamboats. Much of the archipelago can also be reached by other means of public transport. www.visitstockholm.com 5. Old Town and Royal Palace Stockholm’s historical Old Town is Europe’s largest and best preserved medieval city centre. It offers an enormous selection of sights, shopping, restaurants, cafés and pubs in the picturesque narrow streets and alleys. The gateway to the Old Town is the Royal Palace, northern Europe’s largest and most stately of its kind. The palace alone has no less than five museums, a large number of guided tours, and the changing of the guards. Not to be missed either is the adjacent island of Riddar­ holmen, a hidden treasure with a history going back to the 12th century. In December the locals flock to the Old Town’s traditional Christmas market with its charming red cabins. www.visitstockholm.com www.kungahuset.se 6. Fotografiska Many people were sceptical when, in 2010, Fotografiska opened its 5,500 square metres of exhibition space for

photographic art in the old customs house at Stadsgård Quay in Stockholm, with beautiful views of the water, city and parks. Today, everyone is convinced of the idea! Fotografiska has proved a monumental success, and has positioned itself as one of the world’s foremost arenas for photography, with exhibitions by the biggest international names and an ambitious programme. It’s an attractive destination that also features a popular restaurant with outdoor seating and a museum shop. www.fotografiska.eu 7. The Vasa Museum A museum without equal. The 69-metre long warship, Vasa, sank on her maiden voyage in Stockholm’s harbour, in 1628. It was salvaged in 1961 and has, slowly and meticulously, been restored to near-original glory over almost half a century. It is the world’s only preserved 17th-century ship. As Sweden’s most visited museum, it is being extended to deal with the constantly growing patronage. The Vasa Museum will open new sections in 2013. www.vasamuseet.se 8. Artipelag Spectacular new art venue and destination on the island of Värmdö in the Stockholm Archipelago. Opened in the spring of 2012. Located in beautiful scenery, with stunning sea views. In addition to exhibition space, ­Artipelag’s more than 10,000 square metres of floor area includes two restaurants with outdoor dining as well as spaces for events. The property is large, with beautiful nature walks. It’s an ideal destination for a day trip, as it combines art with outdoor experiences. Arti­ pelag has a permanent collection as well as exciting temporary exhibitions and events. Accessible by bus or boat from central Stockholm. www.artipelag.se

She islands withwith sparkling blue blue She isisbuilt builton on1414greenery-covered greenery-covered islands sparkling water Welcome to the home of history, culture waterin inevery everydirection. direction. Welcome to the home of history, culture and stunning scenery. Meet her at visitstockholm.com and stunning scenery. Meet her at visitstockholm.com

PHOTO: JEPPE WIKSTRÖM

City break 6


Your Sweden holiday specialist since 2005 Winter favourties ICEHOTEL Northern Lights Lapland Skiing in Åre

Stay in style! Staying at Elite Hotels is much more than just checking into a hotel, it’s staying in style! You find our hotels located centrally in all major Swedish cities, all with a unique character and most with a long history! We look forward to welcoming you to Sweden! www.elite.se | +46 (0)771-788 789

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Buy your ticket at www.flygbussarna.se


City break 10

Gothenburg 11

Gothenburg — city of the sea

Opposite page, top: Aschebergs­ gatan 24, a design shop in the charming, pedestrian-friendly centre of Gothenburg. Opposite page, bottom: Gothenburg has a global reputation as a seafood mecca. Restaurant ­Gabriel in the city’s Fish Market serves super-fresh seafood from the clean cold waters of the North Atlantic. www.restauranggabriel.se Other dining suggestions: The elegant Kock & Vin, with a Michelin star, serves modern ­international cuisine. Ranked third in the country in the ­prestigious White Guide. www.kockvin.se Bhoga. Small, recently opened restaurant by the canal. Pleasant, relaxed atmosphere and ambitious international cuisine based on Swedish ingredients. Reasonable prices. www.bhoga.se

Gothenburg — city of commerce, culture and ­entertainment — has always been influenced by its location by the sea. Gothenburg’s essence and character emanate from its coastal location amidst the pink-tinged granite of the salty Bohuslän Archipelago. Historically, trade and shipping have been the city’s driving forces. Today the ferry traffic to numerous northern European cities, an advanced commercial shipping industry and pleasure craft from far and wide give Gothenburg an inter­ national, maritime flavour. The city is still an important centre for trade and industry, and the home of cor­ porations like Volvo and SKF. In recent decades it has undergone an exciting post-industrial transformation. The shorelines on both sides of the Göta River have developed from industrial/port precincts to modern waterfront neighbourhoods. Gothenburg’s pedestrian-friendly city centre offers an attractive selection of culture, shopping, sights, restaurants and nightlife. On the car-free streets of the picturesque Haga district and in the blocks around Magasinsgatan, you’ll find an array of interesting places selling creative fashion and design, music, ­second-hand and vintage goods and books, as well as bars, restaurants and cafés. The Art Gallery is a beautiful, classic museum with a first-rate collection of 19th and 20th century Scandinavian art, and older international works. The Röhsska is one of Scandinavia’s foremost museums for design and crafts, with a large collection of its own as well as interesting temporary exhibitions. Universeum and the Museum of World Culture are dynamic additions to the museum mix. The Botanical Garden is well worth a visit. The music scene is particularly vibrant, with the outstanding Gothenburg Symphony Orchestra, Sweden’s national orchestra, under the ­direction of Kent Nagano. During the warmer months, major international artists descend on the city for big music festivals like Way Out West and Metaltown. Gothenburg is a leading entertainment and events city in Scandinavia. At the beautiful Liseberg amusement park and the extensive events district adjoining it there are trade fairs, concerts and all sorts of events that attract visitors from around the world, throughout the year. Christmas in Gothenburg has developed into something special, when the entire downtown area becomes a carnival of lights and decorations, and

This page: Seaside city with ­maritime influences. View of the port and river, with four-masted barque Viking, launched in 1906, in front of the Gothenburg Opera House. Popular summer restaurant, Port Du Soleil on the city’s waterfront, has a dining room, large lounge with sunbeds and ­renowned night club.

large Christmas markets are held at Liseberg and other places around town. In recent years Gothenburg has received coverage in the international press as an exciting culinary ­destination, with four Michelin-star restaurants and many more first-class eateries. Seafood from the west coast is much acclaimed and Gothenburg is the best place to enjoy it. And don’t miss the famous ‘Fish Church’, where seafood is sold and auctioned. From Gothenburg you can make excursions to a number of picturesque destinations in the Bohuslän Archipelago, with a wide range of adventures such as lobster safaris and sea kayaking.

www.visitsweden.com www.goteborg.com


City break 12

Malmö 13

Malmö — gateway to the continent

Malmö, Sweden’s third largest city, is an old ­shipbuilding and industrial centre. It has undergone a metamorphosis in recent years, since ­being linked to the Danish capital of Copenhagen by the spectacular Öresund Bridge. Left: Some of the many outdoor cafés and restaurants at the multicultural Möllevång Square, famous for its diversity of ­ethnic restaurants and food stores. Right: Belle Epoque — a popular meeting place in restaurantpacked Malmö. It’s a neighbour­ hood bistro with a friendly, ­relaxed atmosphere and ­creative, modern cooking based on first-class local ingredients. www.belle-epoque.se Other dining suggestions: ­B astard Mat & Vin. Hugely ­p opular restaurant and ­meeting place, hip, happy and friendly, with a long zinc bar and well-made traditional fare with an international touch. www.bastardrestaurant.se Bloom in the Park. Experi­ mental, creative restaurant, currently ranked number one in the city. Doesn’t use a menu or winelist. Just jump on for the ride! www.bloominthepark.se

Stroll in the picturesque Gamla Väster district — a beautiful example of how an old city centre can be restored. Its ­centre is the charming square, Lilla Torg, which goes back to the Middle Ages. One of Malmö’s many multicultural food stores, selling goods from all over the globe.

Now the two cities are just 25 minutes apart, and the daily interaction between them is intense. Malmö, ­today a multicultural melting pot, has built an international reputation as a creative, progressive and ­environmentally aware city. For centuries Malmö was part of Denmark, and on a walk around its cosy centre you can clearly see a continental style of architecture that differs from the more northerly Swedish cities. The area around the medieval square Lilla Torg and the majestic Stora Torget is home to a diverse range of attractive restaurants, bars and cafés, design shops, museums and galleries. A five-minute walk takes you to the growing new neighbourhood of Västra hamnen, with the Turning Torso skyscraper, a modern, exciting meeting place for people from the entire region, with many popular restaurants, bars, clubs and shops. Malmö has a strong art scene, and in 2009 Stockholm’s Moderna Museet opened its southern subsidiary here. There’s also Malmö Konst­ hall — an unusually beautiful venue and a number of interesting galleries. The music scene is also vibrant, with a range of dynamic venues for classical, rock, jazz and all types of club music, such as Debaser Malmö and Kulturbolaget. Malmö’s restaurant scene has evolved massively in the past decade. In and around the city centre there is now a large number of top-notch restaurants and ­culinary destinations, many specialising in cuisine based on fine local and seasonal ingredients. The streets around Möllevången in central Malmö offer a selection of ethnic foods virtually unparallelled in northern Europe. During the warmer months, life in Malmö is in­ fluenced by its seaside location and the long Ribersborg Beach next to the city centre. From Malmö you’re just 30 minutes by car from a number of attractive, historically interesting destinations, picturesque towns, villages and manor houses in the fertile, ­undulating Skåne countryside.   www.visitsweden.com www.malmotown.com

The new seaside district of Västra Hamnen, with spectacular views of the Sound, is a vibrant meeting place for the entire region.


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Swedish lifestyle 15

Sweden goes gay

Glass vase by Martti Rytkönen for Orrefors.

We’re delighted that Sweden is often ranked as Europe’s most gay-friendly country. Sweden is a country that values tolerance, diversity and respect, where everyone is welcome regardless of origins, opinions and orientation. Unlike many ­c ities overseas, Swedish cities don’t have specific ­g ay-friendly districts; the venues are sprinkled throughout an array of neighbourhoods. The Swedish capital, Stockholm, is known inter­ nationally as a gay-friendly city that has been genuinely transformed in recent years, with a rich, diverse and constantly growing selection of clubs, meeting places and events. In particular the lesbian scene has boomed. Many of the best-known spots are in the ­districts of Södermalm and the Old Town. Torget in the Old Town is a classic place to get together and find out what’s going on in town. The restaurant Roxy is one of several lesbian favourites. In summer there’s Mälarpaviljongen, set up on three barges off the isle of Kungsholmen — a stunning location with a perfect groove, seven days a week. Stockholm Pride Week in August has grown into Stockholm’s biggest public party, with an enormous selection of events and ­festivities. Of course the parade is the highlight, ­d rawing some 50,000 participants and about half a million spectators. Another indication of the ­significance of Pride in Swedish society is that many of our leading politicians take part. Sweden’s two other cities, Gothenburg and Malmö, are also gay-friendly destinations with a diverse range of attractions and venues. For info on everything that’s happening on the gay scenes in our Swedish ­cities, there are a number of frequently updated ­websites and groups, including:   Twitter: GayStockholm + LesbianSthlm www.visitstockholm.com/gay-lesbian www.stockholmpride.org/en/ www.facebook.com/StockholmInFullGlory www.qx.se/english/ 

Spring/summer 13 by ­ ltewai Saome, new A star in Swedish fashion design. Groundbreaking cuisine from Frantzén/Lindeberg, with two Michelin stars, and their sights set on a third.

Above left: Mälarpaviljongen on the Kungsholmen waterfront, one of Stockholm’s most popular gay locations in summer. The Pride Parade in Stockholm draws over 50,000 participants and half a million spectators.

A vibrant, contemporary and creative tradition In recent decades we have witnessed a broad-based revolution in Swedish creative culture — a phenomenon that has generated considerable buzz in the global ­media. In a major international survey a few years ago, Sweden was ranked as the world’s most creative nation. There can be no doubt that Swedish creatives have made a strong global impact in the spheres of music, design, fashion, film, marketing, multimedia, art, cuisine and more. We now have the explanation for this well-known phenomenon. Swedes are a well educated, well ­travelled people, extremely open to influences from abroad — influences which they have always been able to transform into something of their own, something new, fresh and innovative. A notable trend on the Swedish scene is how today’s creatives seek inspiration not only from outside, from the global scene. They also look inward and backward, to our own Swedish cultural history. It’s fascinating to see how our classic folk expressions and forms are continually rediscovered in new interpretations by talented young Swedes. One field where Sweden is undoubtedly a global ­superpower is design, in the broadest sense. Swedish design is a well-established phenomenon among ­connoisseurs worldwide. Its history goes back to the


Swedish lifestyle 17

Swedish lifestyle 16

18th century, but it was during the 20th ­century that a long list of Swedish designers in a range of fields became household names internationally. In the 21st century we have seen a broad-based renaissance in Swedish design. Stockholm, Gothenburg and Malmö are home to a number of museums, galleries and shops — good news for everyone with an interest in the distinctive Swedish style. Other places well worth a visit are the ­K ingdom of Crystal in Småland. For design lovers a good time to visit Stockholm is ­during the Furniture Fair in February. It’s

one of the world’s largest design happenings, with loads of interesting exhibitions and events for the public. A couple of years ago when people started talking about a “Swedish fashion miracle”, the phrase might have seemed exaggerated. But a few seasons later, the prophesy has proved correct. Sweden, and in particular Stockholm, has positioned itself firmly as one of the most exciting, dynamic and innovative fashion scenes outside the big, established capitals. Media and bloggers keep their eyes on the city, and the Stockholm

Fashion Weeks in spring and autumn attract more international attention every year. It was in the broad-based, trend-conscious low- and medium-priced segments that Swedish fashion started to make its mark about a decade ago. Naturally with retail ­giant H&M as a key driver. Brands such as Filippa K, J. Lindeberg, Whyred, Hope and Acne began to build their reputations with their clean, low-key and wearable, yet very updated, on-trend and clever looks. Acne, in particular, has achieved global success and set an example for a profusion of younger,

more artistic and cutting-edge Swedish ­fashion brands. These include Ann-Sofie Back, Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair, Rodebjer, The Local Firm, Carin Wester, Ida Sjöstedt, Camilla Norrback, Sandra Backlund and ­A ltewaiSaome — to name just a few. And ­every season there are new designers making their debut on the catwalk at Stockholm Fashion Weeks. Especially in Stockholm, but also in ­Gothenburg and Malmö, you’ll find flagship stores for an array of Swedish fashion brands. Also not to be missed is the excellent selection of vintage shops located in the larger Swedish centres, many blending new and old, fashion and design. Interested in Swedish handicrafts? You can find interesting museums and shops in all the larger cities, as well as throughout the countryside, where the traditions are very much alive. One of the most renowned craftproducing provinces is Lapland in the far north, with beautiful Sami pieces, traditionally made from reindeer horn, silver and leather. Swedish crafts have their true stronghold in Dalarna province and the ­d istricts around the beautiful Lake Siljan, with the characteristic kurbits painting. This is also the home of the small wooden Dala horse, a national symbol. Traditions are alive and well here, with the colourful folk ­costumes, varying from village to village, proudly worn at midsummer celebrations.

Nudie Jeans, Sweden’s largest international jeans brand, takes the environment seriously. Shoe from the globally acclaimed fashion house, Acne. My Granddaughter’s Cabinet, made of birch, oak and cherry, by Lisa Hilland for Gärsnäs.

Contemporary embroidered waist band. Svensk Hemslöjd had its centenary in 2012. Throughout Sweden,crafts are thriving.

Farmhouse in Hälsingland, on UNESCO’s World Heritage List. Interior from Kristofers in Stene. Exterior Fägelsjö Farmhouse. Samis in traditional costume. In their culture, blue represents water as the elixir of life, red is the flame of heat and love, yellow is the sun in long-lasting life and green, plants and nature.


Culture iN

Dal ar na

By train to Sweden’s horizons Travel to northern Sweden, and the wilderness that greets you will stretch as far as the eye can see. The train sweeps across these great expanses, cutting through mountains on its way to the ocean where killer whales play alongside the hull of the boat. Get off at an isolated station, pack your rucksack and head for the wilds. Drink water straight from the rippling mountain streams, fish and cook dinner yourself. Come here in mid-winter, and experience the thrill of amazing plains of untouched snow glistening under the magic we call Northern Lights. The adventure is yours for the taking. Go north with SJ, two spartan tracks that lead straight to the wilderness. A convenient and comfortable way to discover Sweden. Find out more at www.sj.se/english

Swedish Railways

Foto: Idre Fjäll

Located in the center of Sweden and with an outline resembling the shape of a human heart, Dalarna is deeply rooted in the traditions of the Swedish folk culture. It has always been one of Sweden’s most popular destinations, offering its visitors a wide range of world-class experiences: genuine hospitality, breathtaking nature, authentic Midsummer celebrations, internationally renowned artists.

SAIL TO

Make getting there as good as being there

Rent a bike and explore our forests and mountains; enjoy the exceptional acoustics of an opera performance at Dalhalla; admire the works of Carl Larsson and Anders Zorn and discover the homes of these cherished Swedish painters.

SWEDEN

Welcome to an unforgettable vacation full of amazing impressions. Welcome to adventure and recreation, traditions and modern lifestyle. Welcome to Dalarna.

When you take the one and only ferry route from the UK to Scandinavia your holiday begins the moment you drive on board. Choose your restaurant and enjoy live music at the bar. Take a stroll on deck and after a good night’s sleep arrive refreshed and ready for the scenic drive through Denmark to Sweden. You can also access central and northern Sweden via our Copenhagen to Oslo route. Visit dfds.co.uk for more information and to book.

Oslo

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Copenhagen Denmark Copenhagen


Culinary 20

Fredrik Eriksson is one of Sweden’s most famous chefs. He has featured on TV for twenty years, and has won numerous awards, including Chef of the Year. Eriksson runs the popular restaurant, Långbro Värdshus, south of Stockholm. Join him on his trip through culinary Sweden.

My Swedish food trip “Following the progress of Swedish culinary culture in recent years has been an enormous pleasure. Swedish cuisine and our Swedish ingredients and flavours are finally getting plenty of attention from overseas. It’s well deserved. Sweden is a long, narrow country, extending all of 1,572 km from Treriksröset in the north to Smygehuk in the south. Our 25 provinces have different cultures and historical backgrounds, and varying potential for agriculture, animal husbandry, fishing and hunting. The ingredients and the climate have shaped the local cuisines, as have the traditional methods of making use of harvests and catches from meadows, forests, lakes and the ocean — methods such as smoking, salting, boiling, souring and curing. Join me on my ­Swedish food trip!”

Småland — lingonberries, cheesecake and contemporary food craft Vimmerby is the home of the Astrid Lindgren’s World theme park, with over half a million visitors ­annually. I collaborate with the restaurants there. We have stopped serving standard theme park fare, such as pizzas, hamburgers and French fries. Instead we offer well-made, traditional local food, as mentioned in Astrid Lindgren’s books: local isterband sausages, cheese cake (Småland style), potato dumplings and lingonberry jam, to name just a few. Småland has a long-standing reputation for its entrepreneurial spirit, and this tradition is evident in contemporary food craft. Here you’ll find lots of talented, ambitious producers who grow and refine the local ingredients, and maintain and advance traditional cuisine. PM & Vänner in Växjö, one of Sweden’s top-ranking restaurants, is a pioneer in this respect. And nestled in the heart of the famed Kingdom of Crystal is the Kosta Boda Art Hotel, where food and glassware merge in a synthesis of culture and gastronomy. Öland — isle of herbs Öland, the long, skinny island east of the Småland mainland, is famous for its unusual plain, the Great Alvar, a UNESCO World ­Heritage Site. This is where chef Karin Fransson picked her herbs long before “locally grown” became a culinary concept. At her Hotel Borgholm, Fransson runs a groundbreaking kitchen based on these herbs and locally grown ingredients. Many great chefs have trained with Fransson. Öland has a strong tradition of harvest festivals and other food-related events. On Öland they pay tribute to classic Swedish foodstuffs like the brown bean and traditional dishes like potato dumplings.

Gotland — the sunny island with the fine ingredients Summer, sun and holiday — that’s Gotland. In my opinion it’s most beautiful and most relaxing off season, for instance on an early-spring bicycle ride. That’s when ramson and sand leek thrive in the limerich Gotland soil. Both of these delicate wild onions are used in soups, salads and more. Gotland also gives us the saffron pancake that we always serve in the Christmas buffet at Långbro Värdshus. The island has first-rate animal husbandry. The renowned Gotland lambs and beef cattle graze freely in the poetically barren countryside. All over the island, the food craft scene buzzes with entrepreneurial spirit. Träkumla Rom has started making rum from sugar beets. At Stafva Farm Dairy they produce delicious dessert cheeses called Blå, Vit and Ockra, plus several other types. Skåne — the province of fertile soils The province of Skåne used to be called “Sweden’s breadbasket”. It has the country’s most fertile soils. Here the generous harvests are ­c ollected earlier than in the rest of the country. In a good year, the country’s first new potatoes are ­harvested as early as May and are a genuine delicacy. In Skåne the star chef, Anders Vendel, serves up brilliant cooking at the restaurants Sandskogen and Sture, with innovative menus based on local ingredients and traditions. Throughout Skåne you’ll find res­ taurants in beautiful settings where you can enjoy ­exquisite seasonal, local ingredients, prepared with a contemporary touch and respect for culinary heritage. An important day in Skåne is the traditional goose dinner on November 10, with goose blood soup as an entrée, followed by roast goose, and then egg cake. In Skåne they also raise top-quality chickens, such as the Bosarp ecological chicken.

The famous Gotland sheep graze freely in the open ­cultural landscape. Cheese from Stafva gårdsmejeri. ­A pples from Österlen in Skåne. Influential herbal focus at Karin Fransson’s Hotel Borgholm.

“Österlen on the east coast of Skåne has a poetic beauty. It’s the garden of Sweden, and apple heaven. In spring the apple orchards are in full bloom and in autumn we harvest our sumptuous Swedish apple varieties with enchanting names such as ­Aroma, Signe Tillisch, Alice and Ingrid Marie. Their characteristic crisp, fresh flavour comes from ripening slowly in the open countryside. Many farms have their own ­facilities for making apple juice.”


Culinary 22 “Right through the autumn, visitors to the west coast can sample fantastic shellfish. The lobster safaris in October are an experience not to be missed. Oyster lovers should make a beeline for the fishing huts in Grebbestad, where ninety percent of the Swedish oysters are sourced.”

Two dishes from Fredrik ­ riksson’s favourite meal — E fresh mushrooms and freshly boiled crayfish. Oysters from Grebbestad, the Swedish ­seafood capital. Kitchen at Frantzén/Lindeberg, with two Michelin stars.

Gothenburg, Bohuslän and the West Coast — seafood mecca Sweden’s second city, Gothenburg, is a seafood mecca, and one of the country’s foremost culinary strongholds. It has a well-established tradition of handling and preparing fish and shellfish. Visitors mustn’t miss the city’s number one delicacy: freshly caught boiled prawns, simply enjoyed with a dollop of mayonnaise, freshly baked bread and a glass of white wine — ­preferably in the famous “Fish Church” fish market. Of the many excellent restaurants, the most classic is Sjömagasinet, where many talented chefs have trained. The austerely beautiful west coast, and the barren, windswept islands in the archipelago are dotted with picturesque fishing villages. Marstrand, Smögen, Fjällbacka and Grebbestad — my personal favourite — are among the best known. Dalsland and Värmland — treasures of the deep forests In these scenic provinces the roads are lined with dense, deep forests, alternating with inviting blue lakes. The forests are goldmines for mushroom lovers. In late summer and autumn it’s time to pick my favourite, the chanterelle, as well as the delicate penny bun. Dalsland and Värmland host mushroom exhibitions and mushroom safaris at many locations. For hunting enthusiasts, the deep forests are rich in elk, deer and small game. In Vänern, Sweden’s largest lake, you can fish for pike and zander.

Gästrikland — the herring province There’s good reason to label the herring as the most Swedish of all foodstuffs. This small yet ­noble fish has historically been the Swedes’ most important food, alongside the potato. Herring is the star of all our traditional holiday buffets. Böckling, or buckling in English, is herring soaked in brine and hot-smoked over spruce or juniper. This traditional method imparts a lovely golden colour and a delicious f lavour. North of Gävle in Gästrikland there are ­buckling smokehouses in the old fishing sheds that dot the coastline - perfect for sitting in the autumn sun, eating buckling on crispbread. One revered tradition in the Swedish north is surströmming — fermented Baltic herring, known for its powerful smell — or stench, as some would say. It’s not my personal favourite but lots of people love it. The surströmming premiere on the third Thursday of August is a popular and very Swedish event. Stockholm and Mälardalen — the culinary metropolis Many of Stockholm’s finest restaurants source their ingredients from farmers and producers in the surrounding regions of Uppland, Södermanland and Västmanland. Internationally renowned restaurant Frantzén/Lindeberg has its own farmland. As a culinary metropolis, Stockholm is recognised not only for its fine dining, but also for all of its innovative, ambitious bistros and neighbourhood restaurants. One of the region’s many impressive, small-scale food producers is Jürrs mejeri, a dairy that makes Sörmlands Ädel, an award-winning creamy blue cheese with a rich flavour. In consistency it’s softer than Roquefort but firmer than Gorgonzola.

For me, the tastiest — and most Swedish — meal is toast with chanterelle mushrooms as an entrée, followed by boiled freshwater crayfish with a seedspiced cheese, crispbread, aquavit and beer, and for dessert, fresh raspberries and whipped cream. At Långbro Värdshus we have a special aquavit sommelier who helps the guests find make the best choice from the extensive range of traditional and newly created aquavits. One gem in Stockholm is Fjäderholmarna, a small island just outside the city centre. It’s a fantastic environment where the herring practically jump up onto the jetty. LO Smith, a spirits manufacturer, developed the vodka here that is now the global brand, Absolut. In Uppland, north of Stockholm, is the wonderful coastal region of Roslagen. Here we bake Långbros Värdshusknäcke, a crispbread made the old-fashioned way in a small family bakery. Crispbread is a unique Swedish tradition that is served at almost all Swedish restaurants. Dalarna — the most Swedish of all! More than most other Swedish provinces, Dalarna has a well-established tradition of inns, in magnificent settings, where travellers used to eat, drink, rest and change their horses. The ­characteristic red timber houses in Tällberg, with stunning views of the famous blue Lake Siljan, are well worth a trip. Midsummer festivities by Lake ­Siljan are an enchanting custom, with fiddle music, folk costumes, dancing around the Midsummer pole and not least, a sumptuous smörgåsbord, or buffet. Dalarna is often called the most Swedish of all the provinces. It produces many varieties of the Swedish unpasteurised cheese, fäbodsost. This was originally a means of preserving milk during winter, as the ­cattle grazed far from the farms.

Norrland and Lapland — wild country and unique flavours Norrland’s remarkable cuisine is rich in delicacies from the forests, bogs, rivers and lakes. Here the almond potatoes acquire their exceptionally rich flavour as they slowly ripen in the summer sun that never sets. The cloudberry is called the gold of the mountains; the vitamin-packed buckthorn berry grows best by the coast. Each season the local villagers hotly debate the prospects for these two golden berries. With a dollop of fresh cream, cloudberries are a genuine delicacy. The world-renowned restaurant Fäviken is located in Åre, Scandinavia’s largest alpine centre. Headed by chef Magnus Nilsson, Fäviken serves traditional regional cuisine in a new, highly innovative way. The menu follows the seasons, taking advantage of every ingredient the region provides. If three ptarmigan are caught that day, the trio will appear on the menu that evening. The forests of Norrland are home to elk, reindeer and black grouse. Streams abound with salmon, brown trout, arctic char, lavaret and grayling. Such delicacies are best enjoyed on location; they’re rarely found in big-city restaurants. The spectacularly ­orange-coloured vendace roe, with its mild, salty ­flavour, comes from vendace caught in the autumn in northern watercourses. It is best enjoyed au naturel with sour cream and finely chopped raw onion. The famous Västerbotten cheese from Bjurträsk in the Västerbotten region, with its strong, nutty aroma, is the queen of Swedish cheeses. The delicious reindeer meat takes on exciting flavours when smoked according to local traditions. And when served on Norrland flatbread it’s simply sublime. Like many other Norrland delicacies, it tastes best beside a campfire in the mountains or the forest.

Dining room in the beautiful, award-winning restaurant Dala Floda in Dalarna. Cloudberries — the gold of the mountains. Vendace roe — the gold of the streams. Globally renowned Fäviken, in the mountains of Jämtland, has its own garden.


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Cruising 26

See Sweden from the sun deck With its beautiful, long and richly varied coastline, it’s no surprise that Sweden is becoming increasingly popular as a destination for cruise ships from all over the world. The country’s extensive coast offers a huge number of destinations well worth going ashore for. At several points, the coast is peppered with fantastic archipelagos that ensure superb scenery and ­constantly changing vistas. Most famous are of course the Stockholm and the west coast archipelagos; each has its own character, but both are unparalleled ­maritime worlds. In summer, Stockholm is a world-class cruise ship destination. Many vessels dock at the beautiful Old Town, dating back to the 13th century — one of fourteen islands positioned where Lake Mälaren meets the Baltic Sea and the waters of the Stockholm Archipelago. Being the national capital, Stockholm is awash with sightseeing, culture, museums, restaurants, entertainment and shopping opportunities. Cruise ship traffic breaks records year after year. ­Increasingly, cruise companies are choosing Stockholm as a turnaround point, i.e. a starting or finishing port for the cruise, thanks to the city’s huge appeal, good hotel standard and convenient direct flights to Europe and the United States. Sweden’s second city, Gothenburg is another popular destination for cruise ships. It enjoys an impressive cultural and entertainment scene and is the obvious point of departure for trips through the magical, ­pink-tinged west coast archipelago. The country’s third city, Malmö, is another attractive stop. The other Swedish ports of call for international cruise ships are the unique medieval town of Visby on the scenic Baltic island of Gotland, historical Kalmar with a bridge link to Öland, the second Swedish Baltic island with ­stunning natural beauty, and finally Helsingborg, a charming town on the west coast of Skåne. Swedish ports offer good service and organisation, and a professional, safe welcome. For more information, see Visitsweden.com/cruise Cruising in the Stockholm ­Archipelago, a unique marine landscape. Many cruise ships anchor in the centre of the ­national capital, Stockholm.


Swedish Stories 28

Swedish Stories 29

Once upon a time in Sweden… A country is very much its history, stories, myths and images. For many people, their first encounter with a country is through different types of stories. They create their own relationship to the country long before they actually visit it in real life. Over the centuries, Sweden has had many different storytellers, whose works have travelled far beyond its borders. August Strindberg, Astrid Lindgren and Ingmar Bergman, as well as artists like Anders Zorn and Carl Larsson, are some of the individuals who have created the images and stories that help people overseas interpret and understand Sweden. In recent years we have seen an astonishing increase in the international demand for Swedish stories. Contemporary Swedish literature (in particular crime stories) and film have enjoyed huge success on the global stage. In many instances the imagery and mythology of Sweden abroad has been updated as a result. Against the backdrop of the worldwide success of these Swedish stories, we have had the pleasure to welcome growing numbers of visitors from around the globe. They discover Sweden through books and films, and come here to experience the districts where their heroes and heroines live and love. They want to take in the same views, smell the same smells, and check if the lavender-flavoured biscuits at their favourite cake shop are unusually spicy. Here are a few of the locations that have gained global fame through the stories and images of our Swedish storytellers.

“It’s fantastic that my books have helped Fjällbacka that way”, she explains. “I’m a real Fjällbacka girl — I really love everything about the place. Fjällbacka and environs are extremely important to the books, and even more important to the films, which really showcase the village, the countryside and the sea.” Fjällbacka is a classic fishing village of the Bohuslän region. Its culture, including the built environment, has been lovingly maintained, one example ­being the iconic red fishing sheds. Life has always been centred around the sea — a tradition that is very much alive. “Fjällbacka is stunningly beautiful, but in an austere way”, explains Läckberg. “You’re very exposed to the forces of nature, and life here has been difficult. Every­ one made a living from fishing and seafaring, and you never knew if the fish would come back or not. The mentality here is shaped by the strict Lutheranism of Schartau. You don’t put yourself forward or say­ that everything’s great. First you talk about your ­problems.” According to Camilla Läckberg you can see Fjällbacka as a miniature reflection of Sweden, at least as this reflection is perceived on the international stage. “When I travel around the world doing publicity for my books, I’m struck by the fantastically glorified ­image many people have of Sweden. The Swedish model, beautiful countryside and tall blonde, beautiful people. I get huge numbers of questions about that. Many readers find it exciting the way the murders and other negative elements like alcoholism, physical abuse and neo-Naziism contrast with the idyllic image of the good society.” Of all the international guests Camilla Läckberg has hosted in Fjällbacka, not a single one has been ­disappointed, despite high expectations. “People go crazy when they get here! They’re ­enchanted by the countryside and the environment, it’s like nothing they’ve ever experienced. And the food makes a huge impression. Eating freshly caught fish and shellfish here is really something very ­special.”

Camilla Läckberg’s Fjällbacka, Bohuslän and the West Coast For Camilla Läckberg, currently Sweden’s best-selling author, it was natural to set her crime stories in the town where she grew up, Fjällbacka, an austere yet idyllic fishing village on the West coast. In Läckberg’s books, police officer Patrik Hedström and author ­Erika Falck — his girlfriend and often identified as Läckberg’s alter ego — solve barbaric murder mysteries. Readers worldwide can’t get enough. To date, four of the books have been made into films, and a series of ten new Swedish TV and cinema films are in production. There are also plans for international screen ­adaptations of her books. As has happened with the books of Läckberg’s Swedish crime writer colleagues, increasing numbers of visitors are coming to Fjällbacka to experience the locations from Läckberg’s books and films in real life — on guided tours or independently.

Camilla Läckberg is currently Sweden’s best-selling author. She grew up in Fjällbacka, the picturesque west coast fishing village that figures prominently in her crime stories and the films adapted from them. Like several of her Swedish colleagues, she welcomes ­v isitors to experience the ­locations from her stories.

“If you come to Fjällbacka you mustn’t miss the ­archipelago. It’s one of the most stunning things you can see, with its smooth, rounded, grey and pink ­g ranite bedrock. Fjällbacka is the perfect starting point for excursions to other beautiful fishing villages and scenic spots around here, like Hamburgsund, Grebbestad, Lysekil and Tanum with its famous rock engravings. And you just have to sit at the Guest House restaurant on the island of Valön, eating freshly caught lobster. Simply unbeatable!”

Left: Restaurant Vatten ­Gourmet & Café in Skärhamn, at the famous Nordic Water­ colour Museum. www.restaurangvatten.com Right: Freshly caught lobster at restaurant Norra Hamnen in Lysekil. norrahamnen5.se Other dining suggestions: In Fjällbacka you can enjoy ­superb seafood at Bryggan Fjällbacka. www.brygganfjallbacka.com

The fishing village of Fjällbacka and the unique archipelago just offshore play a key role in Camilla Läckberg’s best-selling crime stories. Top: kayaking among the barren islets of Fjällbacka’s archipelago.


Swedish Stories 30

Above right: Ingmar Bergman with his long-standing collaborator Sven Nykvist, the worldfamous film photographer. Above left: The building in Stockholm’s Södermalm, where Stieg Larsson’s Mikael Blomkvist lived.

Above: Rooney Mara as ­Lisbeth Salander. Below right: The classic restaurant Kvarnen in Södermalm, where Lisbeth Salander went on Tuesdays to meet the girls in the rock band Evil Fingers, and where Mikael Blomkvist and his colleagues from Millennium used to get together. Other Millennium tips: Mellqvist kaffebar in Södermalm, where Mikael Blomkvist used to spend time, and where Lisbeth Salander asked to borrow money for an important “investment” — which she used to finance the coup that made her three million Crowns richer. This is also where the author Stieg Larsson used to go in the 1990s, since his magazine Expo had its ­office in the same building.

Astrid Lindgren’s Småland

Stockholm crime stories

Ingmar Bergman’s Fårö and Gotland

Stockholm, the Swedish capital, is known as a beautiful city dominated by light and water, at least during the warmer half of the year when most overseas visitors come. However in recent years a darker image of Stockholm has gained a huge global audience, as a ­result of our world-famous crime stories. The standout example is the extraordinarily popular Millennium trilogy by the deceased Stieg Larsson, with the ­heroes Mikael Blomkvist and Lisbeth Salander. ­A nother author who has depicted what we now call “Stockholm Noir” is Jens Lapidus. Guided tours in the footsteps of Blomkvist and ­Salander, mainly in the Södermalm district, attract Millennium fans from around the world. They come to see the film and book locations in real life. Connoisseurs know that the Swedish crime story boom originated with the author couple Maj Sjöwall and Per Wahlöö. From the mid-60s to the mid-70s they wrote ten novels, collectively called “The Story of a Crime”. Not surprisingly, the Stockholm depicted in this series is vastly different from today’s, but fans of the books love experiencing what the locations look like today.

The barren, romantic countryside and the stony beaches on the little Baltic Sea island of Fårö north of Gotland is an important part of the special magic that made Ingmar Bergman one of the greatest, most influential filmmakers of all time. Bergman’s first ­v isit to Fårö was in 1960, on the recommendation of the producer of Through a Mirror Darkly, which Bergman had initially planned to set on the Orkney Islands in Scotland. He fell in love with the landscape — so much so that he later bought a house there. He spent more and more time on Fårö, and toward the end of his life he settled there permanently. He made and edited a number of films on the island, including classics like Persona and the television series, Scenes from a ­Marriage. Bergman’s films from Fårö also attracted other filmmakers like Andrei Tarkovsky, who made The Sacrifice there in 1986. While Bergman lived, but especially after his death, Fårö became a mecca for ­directors and film lovers from all over the world. They travel there to experience Bergman’s world and the unparallelled magic of Fårö. Every August the Bergman Festival on Fårö attracts distinguished international visitors. Fårö and the “mother island” of Gotland are like a world in miniature, with its own unique natural beauty and a cultural history going back to the Middle Ages. The town of Visby, with its medieval centre and the surrounding town walls are included on UNESCO’s World Heritage List. From Visby it’s less than an hour by car to an array of idyllic, scenic destinations. The countryside of Gotland is home to a number of lovely hotels, inns and guest houses. Gotland also has much to offer in terms of food, with first-class local ­ingredients such as the famous Gotland truffle. Krakas in Katthammarsvik (www. krakas.se) and 50 kvadrat in Visby (www.50kvadrat.se) are two innovative ­restaurants, inspired by Gotland cuisines and featuring ingredients from local producers.

For over half a century, millions and millions of children worldwide have created their own mental pictures of Sweden, consciously or not, while reading Astrid Lindgren’s stories of Pippi Longstocking, Emil of ­L önneberga, Karlsson-on-the-Roof, Madicken, Ronia the Robber’s Daughter and all the other characters. Astrid Lindgren was born and grew up in the small town of Vimmerby in Småland. In the imaginary ­v illage of Katthult outside Vimmerby live Emil, his sister Ida, the farmhand Alfred, the maid Lina and all the other characters in Emil of Lönneberga. The ­Småland countryside, with its stony pastures and red cabins, is an important part of the story. Vimmerby is also home to the constantly expanding Astrid Lindgren’s World, where children and adults can come face-to-face with all of Lindgren’s storybook characters in real life. In the summer of 2013, the 50th anniversary of the first Emil book, a completely new Emil Land will open here. For many international visitors, Småland is the quintessential Sweden, with its dense green forests, dozens of blue lakes and the characteristic red cabins with white trim. And many guests from far and wide come to Småland to realise their dream of experiencing a storybook summer, by renting a cabin by a lake or a forest in the countryside.

Top: Typical scene from S­ måland — classic red buildings with white trim. For many people they’re the essence of Sweden. Much-loved author Astrid Lindgren with Ingrid Nilsson as Pippi Långstrump during the 1970 production of the movie in Småland.

Ingmar Bergman described his first encounter with them as follows: “We stood leaning against the wind, staring with watering eyes at those secretive idols raising their heavy foreheads against the waves and the darkening horizon. I don’t really know what happened. If one wished to be solemn, it could be said that I had found my landscape, my real home; if one wished to be funny, one could talk about love at first sight.” Ingmar Bergman

Above: Restaurang Linnea at Astrid Lindgrens World, ­specialising in traditional ­Småland cuisine, made from ­local ingredients. www.alv.se Other dining suggestions in Småland: PM & Vänner. Ranked among the top ten in the country. A leader among restaurants, with its playful cuisine based on the finest ­local ingredients. www.pmrestauranger.se Hotell Borgholm. Well worth the trip across the bridge to the island of Öland. Karin Fransson’s sublime cooking is known for its influential use of locally grown herbs. www.hotellborgholm.com Left: A symbol of Gotland is the “rauk”, an unusual rock formation found along several stretches of coastline. The most famous are in north­ western Fårö.


Swedish Stories 32

Wallander’s Ystad, Österlen and Skåne itself, and of the crime scenes and other nearby locations from the ten novels. Skåne is Sweden’s most southerly and most densely populated province, and one of the most historically important. Within an hour’s drive from Ystad you can reach a number of attractive destinations. Long, inviting beaches line the Skåne coast in three directions. Visitors love the idyllic, culturally and historically interesting villages and towns, magnificent palaces and manor houses, ancient monuments and of course the west-Skåne cities of Malmö, Lund and Helsingborg. Every corner of the Skåne countryside offers charming hotels and inns, as well as top-notch restaurants where the impressive selection of local, seasonal ­ingredients is prepared with great sophistication. Skåne is an attractive destination for an enjoyable car or bicycle holiday. Den flerfaldigt Oscar ®nominerade och Emmybelönade irländska skådespelaren Kenneth

Branagh spelar Kurt Wallander. Filmatiseringen för BBC, av Henning Mankells bästsäljare

Villospår, är inspelad i det vackra sydsvenska landskapet. Rollgestalterna tolkas av mestadels brittiska skådespelare på ett spännande och nytt sätt. Denna nyinspelning gjorde succé i engelsk TV under hösten 2008.

WEEKEND

SIDETRACKED

Det är höst och människorna i den annars så lugna småstaden Ystad slår sig till ro. Men för kommissarie Kurt Wallander bryts idyllen av att en ung kvinna bränner sig till döds i en rapsåker. Kort därefter slår en seriemördare till med en rad allt mer bestialiska mord. Varför en justitieminister, en framgångsrik konsthandlare och en vanlig småtjuv? Samma vapen, skalperade offer, är det hämnd? Det verkar finnas ett samband. Mardrömmen för Wallander och hans stab har bara börjat. ”Gripande”

WALLANDER

The writer Henning Mankell and his often downhearted police inspector Kurt Wallander were probably the start of what is known globally as “Swedecrime”. In his crime stories, Wallander solves one barbaric crime after another, while also struggling with his own personal broodings and problems. But alongside the books’ literary characters, a key player is the pleasant small town of Ystad, with a history going back to the 13th century, as well as the surrounding region. For more than ten years Mankell fans from around the world have made their pilgrimage to Ystad to follow in Wallander’s footsteps and to enjoy the beautiful, romantic countryside, with its long white sandy beaches, undulating fields, gently rolling hills and fascinating cultural history. As well as the light, so renowned among artists. In Ystad you can visit Wallander’s regular haunts, such as Fridolf’s café and Hotel Continental. There are guided tours of the town

”mycket underhållande” TIME OUT

Kenneth Branagh

WALLANDER SIDETRACKED

”allt är väldigt snyggt, och Branagh är, som alltid,

Sarah Smart Sadie Shimmin imponerande” tom Beard tom hiddleSton richard mccaBe david Warner and Jeany SparK DAILY MAIL WEEKEND MAGAZINE directed By philip martin director of photography anthony dod mantle Written By richard cottan executive producerS franciS hopKinSon and andy harrieS (left BanK pictureS) ole SøndBerg and anni faurBye (yelloW Bird) Kenneth Branagh (tKBc) anne menSah (BBc Scotland) reBecca eaton (WgBh BoSton) hanS-Wolfgang Jurgan (ard degeto) co producer ralf ivarSSon produced By Simon moSeley and daniel ahlqviSt Starring Kenneth Branagh

Filmatisering för BBC av Henning Mankells bästsäljare

BBC logo is copyright and trademark of the British Broadcasting Corporation and is used under licence. BBC logo © BBC 1996.

Sidetracked

Speltid: 1 tim 29 min

Thriller

Rek. från 15 år

Engelskt tal

Inspelad: 2008

Texter: Svenska, norska, danska, finska

© Yellow BIrd rIghTS AB And lefT BAnk PIcTureS (TelevISIon) lImITed 2008 marknadsförs av AB SvenSk fIlmInduSTrI, 169 86 Stockholm.

KÖPFILM - denna dvd-video är avsedd för privat bruk och får endast försäljas till konsument. för uthyrning krävs att tillstånd inhämtas från rättighetsägaren. Programinnehållet skyddas enligt upphovsrättslagen. All annan visning och vidarespridning är förbjuden. filmen får ej heller kopieras. 16:9

1.78:1

distribution: AB SvenSk fIlmInduSTrI. Ansvarig utgivare: rasmus ramstad.

www.sf.se

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Kenneth Branagh as Inspector Kurt Wallander in the film’s international adaptation.

The 17th-century Marsvinsholm Palace in Ystad Municipality — one of many superb palaces and manor houses in the ­cultural landscape of Skåne. Typical undulating farmland near Ystad. Cutting edge cuisine at new Sandskogen, one of many firstclass, modern restaurants in the region. www.sandskogen.vendel­ restauranger.se Also: Daniel Berlin, innovative restaurant in Skåne Tranås, Österlen, with a creative menu that follows what the land is offering. www.danielberlin.se Fridolfs in Ystad — Wallander’s favourite café, where he has his herring sandwich and light beer. Driving through Wallander’s quaint hometown of Ystad, dating back to the 13th century.


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Become a child again Sweden is renowned as a child-friendly destination, with a vast ­selection of children’s culture and attractive places to visit for the whole family, spread throughout the country. Here are a few of the most popular ones. www.visitsweden.com

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Junibacken A world of fantasy on the island of Djurgården in Stockholm, Junibacken has become one of Sweden’s most popular attractions and is located within easy walking distance of several other of the country’s foremost destinations. Junibacken is a ­centre for children’s culture, with characters and attractions from many different Swedish children’s books, starting with Astrid Lindgren’s storybook world. www.junibacken.se

Universeum Exciting science centre in the heart of Gothenburg. Experience the depths of the oceans, the moist heat and exotic sounds of the rainforests and the infiniteness of space. Universeum offers a wide range of captivating activities and events for children and the whole family. www.universeum.se

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Liseberg Scandinavia’s largest and prettiest amusement park, located in central Gothenburg, with a great selection of rides, restaurants, events and entertainment. Open during the warmer months and at Christmas, for the country’s largest Christmas market. For Liseberg’s 90th birthday in 2013, the ­c hildren’s area has been upgraded, with ­seven new attractions. www.liseberg.se

Kolmården Animal Park This large animal park in the region of Östergötland offers a safari where visitors ride in a cable car, coming close to the animals without disturbing them. There’s also a safari tent for overnight stays. You can watch lions, tigers, elephants, rhinoceros and many other animals roaming freely. The most popular of Kolmården’s attractions is the spectacular dolphin show. The hotel, Vildmarkshotellet, calls itself Sweden’s most child-friendly. The animal park has enough attractions for a visit of several days. www.kolmarden.com

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Astrid Lindgren’s World In this storybook world in Astrid Lindgren’s birthplace, Vimmerby, you’ll meet all the famous characters in their natural s ettings: Pippi Longstocking, Emil of ­ ­L önneberga, Karlsson-on-the-Roof, Ronia the Robber’s Daughter, the Brothers Lionheart and all the others. Good selection of theatre, entertainment and events. Open in summer and some weekends in autumn. For the summer of 2013, 50 years after Astrid Lindgren wrote the first Emil book, the park will get a new Emil Land. www.alv.se

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Moose Garden A large wilderness enclosure where you can see the “King of the Forest”, Sweden’s national animal, the elk. In a pretty location, with views across Lake Storsjön in Jämtland. There’s also a viewing tour, where you can look for the sea monster that is said to live in the lake. Or see how they make paper from elk droppings. www.moosegarden.com

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Vildmark i Värmland Here’s your chance to build your own log raft using traditional methods, before slowly floating down the beautiful Klarälven River, through the deep, mystical forests of Värmland. You can catch your own fish for dinner as you go! A relaxing and memorable adventure for the entire family. www.vildmark.se

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Orsa Grönklitt Easily accessible ski resort for the whole family in the beautiful region of Dalarna. As well as all types of skiing, it offers numerous other activities such as skating, dog­sledding, ice fishing, snowmobiling and wood-fired outdoor hot tubs. The Bear Park has brown bears, the world’s largest polar bear park, huge Kamchatka bears, lynx, wolverine, wolf, Persian leopard and snow leopard. A new attraction is the two Kodiak bear cubs, who have got their own Kodiak Island. (Kodiak bears are the world’s largest terrestrial carnivore — along with the polar bear.) 45 minutes away is the storybook world, Tomteland. www.orsagronklitt.se

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­bigger than the people. Priceless, free luxuries such as

Nature — Sweden’s national religion

The Swedes’ love of nature is perhaps the strongest of our national traits. Foreign visitors who experience the Swedish outdoors are often “infected by the same disease”.

If there’s one thing that unites Swedes across age, class and cultural boundaries, it’s a firm desire to ­return to nature. When Swedes are asked what they want most in life, the answer is remarkably often “just to get out into the countryside”. It doesn’t matter if the person is an elderly industrialist, a young pop star or a middle-aged breadwinner. In today’s modern, secular society, this deep affection must be the closest we get to a national religion that unites us across all boundaries. Is there an explanation? Possibly that urbanisation took place so late in Sweden; just a century ago most Swedes still lived in the countryside, making their living from the land. However there’s no doubt that the main reason for our love of nature is the rare beauty and majesty of the Swedish countryside. Sweden is a vast and sparsely populated country where the natural world is still

Breathtaking scenery — Stuor Räitavagge, a wide valley near Kebnekaise mountain and the characteristic summit, Nallo. Lapland is often called Europe’s last wilderness. A magical experience of nature and freedom: sea kayaking in the Stockholm Archipelago. Opposite page, top: Priceless luxuries, for free. Sweden’s thousands of lakes offer wonderful swimming. The ancient Right of Public ­Access gives everyone the right to move freely and to overnight anywhere in the countryside, as long as they act responsibly and don’t go within sight or earshot of a dwelling. Here, an alpine tenting holiday in the wilds of Lapland.

fresh air, clean water, open spaces and breathtaking views are easy to reach and available in abundance for everyone to enjoy, even in the main cities. Sweden’s size and long north-south orientation — equalling the distance from London to Rome — make for remarkable variations in climate and landscape. The scenery changes constantly, from rolling hills, ­undulating fields and long white beaches in the south to endless mountain expanses in the north, often ­referred to as Europe’s last wilderness. The variation of meadows, plains, lakes and especially forests is ­extraordinary. On three sides, Sweden is bordered by a 2,700 kilometre long, hugely varied and mostly uninhabited coastline. Of course, most spectacular are the celebrated ­displays in the mountain regions of Lapland. There’s the midnight sun and its opposite, the polar night — when the supernatural northern lights dance and flash across the midwinter skies. Lapland and the rest of the alpine region, which covers more than half of the country, offers an endless variety of easily accessible adventures, from the relaxing to the extreme. There are also the magical archipelagos near Stockholm and off the west coast, the forest- and lake-rich cultural landscapes of Värmland and Dalarna, and the extraordinary Baltic islands of Gotland and Öland. Throughout the country there’s a huge and varied selection of offers for visitors who seek those simple pleasures where body and soul can find harmony, away from the stress, demands and high-tech of ­today’s society — a sort of authentic tranquillity that has unfortunately been lost in most parts of the densely populated world. This priceless feeling can be achieved almost effortlessly, whether you’re rafting down a river in the magical forests of Värmland, fishing for perch in a calm lake at sunset, watching for elks in a hut made of spruce branches, cycling with your family along gravel roads through the friendly summer scenery of Sörmland, or just lying on the grass outside a cabin in Småland, watching the clouds drift by. An outstanding feature of our Swedish cities is that you can combine contemporary cosmopolitan attractions with the natural pleasures of the outdoors. From all of our three main centres you’re less than 30 minutes from genuine wilderness. Being able to enjoy both of these worlds in one trip is a luxury we like to call ­t ypically Swedish. Our Swedish countryside is vast, friendly and ­lavishly generous. It looks forward to welcoming you!

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Free, priceless luxury in our Swedish countryside Freedom The Right of Public Access is an ancient Swedish custom that allows everyone to roam freely in the countryside, even on ­private property, as long as they behave ­responsibly and remain out of view and earshot of residential buildings. It gives people a unique sense of freedom and an opportunity to enjoy the outdoors — respectfully and on nature’s terms, of course. The light Our Nordic summer light is world famous, and justifiably so. Its magic can hardly be described in words; it must be experienced. It’s delicate and fresh, with an almost otherworldly morning light that makes the greenery glow and the flowers sing in a blaze of colour. And a long, sweet twilight that slowly, slowly drifts into the mythical white night, that never truly gets dark, but retains a secretive, romantic shimmer. The water Sweden is a land of seas and lakes. Wher­ever you rent a cabin you are almost certainly within walking or cycling distance of a beach

or lake’s edge, offering its clear waters for a refreshing swim or a fishing trip or gently reflecting the soft sunset. Our Swedish water­ ways are clean and inviting, for everyone to enjoy all summer long. In winter, the waters are transformed into glistening expanses of ice, ideal for skating, walking and fishing. Imagination In a way, not doing anything in particular has become the ultimate luxury in our overloaded information society, especially for children, who are so accustomed to digital entertainment and other stimuli. Many visitors have experienced how a holiday in a cabin in the Swedish countryside has taken them and their children back to a timeless existence beyond all the high-tech and gadgets. The days seem never-ending and our thoughts and imaginations are nourished by simple, natural luxuries. You will notice how you and your children will soon settle into a slower pace and see things a little differently.

small delights of the countryside are exclusive experiences. Indeed, most children — and adults — appreciate simple, sweet pleasures such as picking berries or f lowers, patting a cow, splashing at the water’s edge or just lying in a hammock, watching the clouds drift across a clear blue sky.

Big little experiences For many big-city children, the natural,

On nature’s terms We Swedes are proud and protective of our clean, healthy and pristine countryside. In recent years the shift toward ecological responsibility has been strong in the tourism industry, as in all other spheres. There is an impressive selection of eco-friendly options. Visitors who want to experience nature on its own terms should look out for Nature’s Best — a quality accreditation system for tour operators of low-key and more adventurous experiences all over the country.

Elk Sweden’s national animal, nicknamed “The King of the Forest”, is so common that you will probably see one in the wild. For many visitors, road signs warning of elks are exotic symbols of Sweden. Elks are found throughout the country, and in the far north, you’ll find the famous, extra-large Sarek elks.

Wolf Our most mythical and feared predatory animal — a fear stemming largely from popular misconceptions. After being threatened with extinction in the 1970s, the wolf population has recovered well. They live mainly in the forests of western Sweden, with a population of some 230 individuals.

The Big Five Our Swedish forests and alpine regions are home to vigorous populations of big game. If you’re lucky you might meet some of them in the wild. But they can also be admired in zoos and wildlife parks around the country. Here is our Nordic version of Africa’s Big Five:

Brown bear The bear has a strong position in Swedish folk culture and has never been feared or hated in the same way as the wolf, although it is potentially more dangerous to humans. It’s telling that Björn, which is Swedish for bear, has always been one of the most popular men’s names in Sweden. The bear is Sweden’s most common predatory animal and its population is estimated at around 3,200. It lives throughout northern Sweden, as far south as Värmland and northern Uppland.

Lynx Scandinavia’s only wild cat, with the characteristic fluffy ears, is our second most common predator, after the bear. However the lynx lives deep in the forest, is very shy and extremely difficult to spot. Despite this, a television show recently named it the Swedes’ most popular animal. Its main habitat is the forests of northern Sweden, but it occurs in every region of the country apart from the islands of Gotland and Öland.

Wolverine The wolverine has a reputation as an aggressive hunter, but in reality it’s primarily a scavenger — a master at locating animals that are already dead, tearing them to bits and saving the pieces for the future, in various locations. It lives chiefly in the barren mountain regions of northern Sweden and to some extent also in forests. Timid and difficult to see.


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Nature’s Best — experiences on nature’s terms All of Sweden is a fantastic playground for visitors who love nature and outdoor life. Adventure and enjoyment are always easy to access, and the selection is unlimited. Here we list just a few examples of experiences in Sweden’s great outdoors.

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Landskapet JO — birdwatching and cultural history In the unusual wetlands around the town of Kristianstad in the very south of Sweden, guide Jan Olsson offers a range of excursions and guided tours in a rubber boat, on foot or by bicycle. Bird watching and fishing are the main attractions, combined with Jan’s stories about the cultural history of the region. www.landskapet.se

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The Silent Way — dogsledding and the northern lights in mountain terrain For 16 years, Catrine and Kenneth Gjammestad, with their 60 Alaskan huskies, have taken guests from all over the world on dogsledding tours in the magnificent mountain world of south Lapland. The longest tour is 16 days or more. Each guest drives their own dog sled. Everyone who has tried it describes the experience of silence, the natural beauty and the relationship with the dogs as ­e xtraordinary. The northern lights are a bonus. Accommodation is in comfortable cabins, and the food is based on what the wilds have to offer. www.dogsledding-adventures.com

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Vargas Wilderness Lodge — bear watching in the silence of the forest The perfect place if you want to see wild bears — just hours from Stockholm, in the depths of the Hälsingland forests. Join ­nature photographer Håkan Vargas at the hide in the bear forest, where elk and wolf also roam and the golden eagle circles overhead. The facility where you stay is beautifully located by the clear waters of Lake ­Stora Öjungen. Electricity is generated by wind and sun. Stillness and silence are the luxuries at this lodge, and you’re soon trans-

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ported to another reality. You’re also treated to a wide range of outdoor experiences, a sauna by the lake and good food made from local ingredients, served in the cosy timber lodge. www.swedenwildlife.se

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Nordic Footprints — fly fishing and forest bird hunting in the mountains These exclusive hunting and fishing tours in Fulufjället National Park in northern Dalarna have quickly become popular among hunting and fishing enthusiasts worldwide. You can fish for brown trout, arctic char and grayling, or hunt black grouse, capercaillie, woodcock and beaver in untouched mountain terrain. Packages include full board with meals made from local ingredients, and accommodation in the wilderness camp or in a Sami tent in the mountains. www.nordicfootprints.com

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Kajak & Uteliv — Kayaking in the archipelago Kayaking in the Roslagen archipelago north of Stockholm, in the borderlands between the verdant inner archipelago and the magnificent, barren outer archipelago, is pure magic. Beginners can venture out among the islands, with the supervision and instruction of an experienced guide. You can take day trips or longer tours, staying the night in a tent out on an island, where the guide cooks a tasty meal using local ingredients and perhaps a freshly caught fish. www.kajak-uteliv.com

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Stockholm Adventures — experience nature just outside the city One of the Swedish capital’s most unique qualities is its location, embedded in magnificent green spaces. Stockholm Adven-

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tures offers nature-related experiences on foot, by bicycle, kayak and sailing boat. A tour by sailing boat through the Stockholm Archipelago is also a memory for life, as is kayaking in the outer reaches of the ­archipelago, amidst unrivalled natural beauty. www.stockholmadventures.se

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JoPe Fors & Fjäll — Whitewater ­adventures in every form Scandinavia’s largest winter sports resort, Åre in the province of Jämtland, offers just as much in summer. Your guide is expe­ rienced whitewater rafter and climber, ­Jonas Persson. Whether a beginner or an ­experienced paddler, you can choose from an array of adventures in the foaming ­waters. Also offered are climbing and ­caving, and in winter, ice climbing. www.jope.se

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Everts — lobster safari and marine adventures in the unique west coast waters In lovingly restored wooden boats, two brothers from the local area take you out for a lobster safari, oyster tasting, fishing and excursions in the stunningly beautiful ­Bohuslän Archipelago on the west coast. The starting point is the picturesque fishing ­v illage of Grebbestad, a mecca for seafood lovers. www.evertssjobod.se

Nature’s Best Nature’s Best is the northern hemisphere’s first quality accreditation system for eco-tourism. The brand encompasses Sweden’s foremost environmental tour operators and their best products. Keep an eye out for the Nature’s Best logo! www.naturensbasta.se


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Swedish gems

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Läckö Castle A magnificent castle with origins in the late 13th century, Läckö’s current form is from the 17th century, when Sweden was a great power. Superbly located on a point of land in Sweden’s largest lake. Summers offer a wide range of exhibitions and events, including very popular opera performances in the main courtyard. Also renowned for its exhibition garden, featuring new surprises and installations every season. www.lackoslott.se

Presenting a small sample of some of Sweden’s best-loved, classic attractions.   www.visitsweden.com

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The Kingdom of Crystal The home of Swedish glass and crystal, in the forests of Småland. Within a radius of about twenty kilometres you can visit eleven large glassworks; most are open to the public. There are guided tours, interesting events and, of course, handmade glass at discounted prices. www.glasriket.se

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Sápmi — the Sami homeland The homeland of the Sami, the Scandinavian indigenous people, is called Sápmi. It’s a vast area stretching across northern Norway, Sweden, Finland, and into Russia. On this land the Sami keep their reindeer, as they have done for centuries — although these days using modern equipment. In Sweden the main centre for Sami culture and crafts is Jokkmokk, where the Sami market has been held in February for over 400 years. Jokkmokk is also the location of the Sami University College and Ájtte, the Sami museum. Part of Sápmi is Laponia: five national parks and nature reserves ­combined and protected as UNESCO World Heritage Sites. www.samer.se

Dalarna Dalarna is often called the most Swedish of all the provinces. Swedish crafts and many of our favourite customs are stronger here than anywhere else. Especially around the beautiful, magically blue Lake Siljan you’ll find a series of picturesque villages with interesting sights and lovely hotels, ­located in traditional red log cabins. The Midsummer celebration in Dalarna, which runs from June 20 to the beginning of July, is a huge event, where people dress up in ­colourful traditional folk costumes and dance around the elaborately decorated Midsummer pole, while the fiddles and ­accordions play. The residences of the iconic Swedish artists, Anders Zorn and Carl ­L arsson, located in Mora and Sundborn ­respectively, are today fascinating museums and well worth a visit. www.dalarna.se

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Österlen Situated along the east coast of Skåne, Österlen is celebrated for its gently undulating hills, lush deciduous forests and exquisite light. Everywhere you’ll find charming restau­rants, inns and cafés, palaces and manor houses, markets, sights, idyllic locations and lovely white beaches. Stenshuvud National Park is a gem. It’s no coincidence that so many artists and authors have made Österlen their home, and many of the artists’ studios are open to the public in summer. www.skane.com

The ICE HOTEL in Jukkasjärvi Who would have known back when it was first built in 1992, that a hotel built of arctic ice in northern Lapland would become an icon that attracts visitors from around the world? Some come in chartered planes, and many are bridal couples. The ICE HOTEL reappears every winter, each time in a new, more spectacular form, complete with wedding chapel, bars, sculpture park and more. The ICE HOTEL is located in the village of Jukkasjärvi, a centre for

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Visby and Gotland The medieval town of Visby, with its Hanseatic history and town walls, is a unique historical environment that is included on UNESCO’s World Heritage List. In summer Visby, on the lovely island of Gotland, is a popular destination for party-hungry ­holidaymakers. At other times of year it’s a peaceful, restful idyll, with a sophisticated selection of culture, restaurants and hotels. Within an hour of Visby you can be anywhere on this spectacular island. To the north is the island of Fårö, of special interest to Ingmar Bergman fans: many scenes from his films were shot here, and he lived here as well. And in summer there’s a festival in his honour. www.gotland.info


Travel facts, A — Z 44

Note: All fares and rates quoted are approximate as of October 2012 (exchange rate £1=10.64 SEK ) and may change without ­notice. While every precaution has been taken to ensure the ­accuracy of the information in this publication, VisitSweden ­accepts no responsibility for any errors, omissions or subsequent changes.

Alcohol restrictions Wine, spirits and strong beer are sold only from state-licensed “Systembolaget” stores to customers aged 20 or older. System­ bolaget stores are generally open Mon — Fri 10am — 6pm, Saturdays, 10am — 3pm. Alcohol may be consumed at bars and restaurants from the age of 18, and light beer is sold at supermarkets to customers aged 18 or older.

Animals and Pets Pets may be brought to Sweden from the UK and Ireland, but visitors are urged to plan well in advance since several ­permissions must be obtained. Swedish Board of Agriculture Tel: +46-36-15 50 00 E-mail: jordbruksverket@sjv.se www.sjv.se

Business hours Banking hours Monday — Friday, 10am — 3pm Thursday, 10am — 4/5.30pm In some cities banks may stay open until 6pm. All banks are ­closed on weekends and on public holidays. Banks at airports, ports and main railway stations are generally open longer. Shopping hours Monday — Friday, 9.30am — 6pm Saturday, 9.30am — 2/4pm In larger towns, department stores remain open until 7pm or ­later. Some are also open on Sundays between approx. 12 noon and 4pm. Shops generally close early the day before a public holiday.

Travel facts, A — Z 45

Average day temperatures (Celsius/Fahrenheit): Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun 3/37 9/48 16/60 21/69 —1.5/29 0.5/31 Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec 21/70 15/59 11/52 5/41 1/34 22/72

Drinking water

Midnight Sun

Right of Public Access

Travel for the disabled

The tap water in Sweden is perfectly safe to drink.

Credit cards

For details, contact diplomatic representatives or visit Tullverket at www.tullverket.se

The Midnight Sun is visible 24 hours a day as follows: Abisko. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . June 17 — July 19 Björkliden.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . June 17 — July 19 Gällivare. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . June 4 — July 12 Jokkmokk. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . June 8 — July 3 Kiruna. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . May 31 — July 11

Major credit cards (some restrictions apply to American Express) are widely accepted throughout Sweden. You can access cash with your Visa, MasterCard, Maestro or Cirrus card at any “Bankomat” or “Uttagsautomat” ATM.

Electrical current

Northern Lights

The Swedish countryside is open to everyone. You are allowed to walk, jog, cycle, ride or ski through the forests and country– side and across other people’s land, provided you don’t cause any damage to crops, tree plantations or other sensitive land. Don’t disturb and don’t destroy — that’s the main rule when it comes to understanding the Swedish Right of Public Access (“Allemansrätten”). Visitors to the countryside are requested to observe a few common-sense guidelines.

Sweden is a welcoming destination for disabled people. Many hotels provide specially adapted rooms and public transportation is generally available for disabled travellers. For more information, VisitSweden’s travel guide on the web: www.visitsweden.com/sweden/Sweden-Facts/How-you-dothings-in-Sweden/Disabled-travellers Information hotels adapted for travellers with disabilities: www.equality.se

The normal electrical current in Sweden is 220 volts AC. You need an adapter for the standard two-pin round continental plugs used in Sweden if you are taking hairdryers or other appliances from the UK.

For more information, visit www.naturvardsverket.se

Travellers’ cheques

Shopping

Emergency numbers

The Northern Lights, or Aurora Borealis, are the fluttering, bright lights that can be observed in the sky over the northernmost parts of the world. The best viewing areas in Sweden are above the Arctic Circle between September and March. Since the phenomenon is caused by energy from the sun carried toward Earth on solar winds, there is no guarantee that it will appear.

Travellers’ cheques are generally accepted as payment throughout Sweden. Change will be given in Swedish kronor. Please note that a nominal fee is charged when using the cheques as ­payment.

For any emergency, dial 112. Emergency calls from pay phones are free of charge.

Passports and Visas

Currency The monetary unit in Sweden is the krona (plural “kronor”) and equals 100 öre. Bank notes are printed in values of 20, 50, 100, 500 and 1 000 kronor; coins 1, 5 and 10 kronor. There is no limit on the amount of Swedish and foreign currency that may be taken into Sweden. The approximate exchange rate as per 28 September 2012 was £1= 10.64 SEK

Daylight hours From early May until late August, Sweden’s sun brightens the nights and lengthens the sightseeing days. The following table shows approximate times for sunrise and sunset in Stockholm and Kiruna: Stockholm Kiruna Period Sunrise Sunset Sunrise Sunset January 8:47am 2:55pm Darkness 24 hours February 8:01am 4:01pm 8:59am 2:45pm March 6:48am 5:12pm 7:02am 4:41pm April 6:17am 7:26pm 5:52am 7:33am May 4:52am 8:37pm 3:43am 9:29pm June 3:47am 9:44pm Sun does not set July 3:40am 10:02pm — August 4:35am 9:13pm 3:02am 10:29pm September 5:46am 7:50pm 5:08am 8:10pm October 5:54am 5:21pm 5:53am 5:04pm November 7:08am 3:54pm 7:50am 2:55pm December 8:19am 2:54pm 10:14am 12:41pm

City cards

Daylight savings time

The Stockholm Card (“Stockholmskortet”) offers unlimited ­public transport in Stockholm and the surrounding area, free admission to 80 museums and attractions, free sightseeing by boat and several other benefits. Rates: SEK 450 (approx. £42) for 24 hours. Further information: www.visitstockholm.com

Daylight savings time (clocks set 1 hour forward) is in effect from the last weekend in March to the last weekend in October, changing during the night between Saturday and Sunday.

The SL Card gives unlimited public transport throughout the Greater Stockholm area. Rates: SEK 115 (approx. £11) for 24 hours; SEK 230 (approx. £22) for 72 hours (£7/£13 for children & adolescents under 20, ­students and senior citizens). www.sl.se

IN UNITED KINGDOM Embassy of Sweden 11 Montagu Place London, W1H 2AL Tel: +44 20 7917 6400 Fax: 020 7724 4174 E-mail: ambassaden.london@foreign.ministry.se www.swedenabroad.com/london

The Gothenburg City Card (Göteborg City Card) gives you free admission to attractions and museums, several sightseeing tours by bus or boat, parking and unlimited travel on public transport. It also entitles you to some great shopping discounts in selected stores. The card my be purchased at Gothenburg tourist offices or online at www.goteborg.com. Rates: SEK 285 (approx £27) for 24 hours. The Malmö City Card entitles you to free entrance to Malmö Art Museum and Malmö Museums, free parking, a discount on sightseeing by bus, as well as a shopping card with discounts in many shops and restaurants.The card is available at the Malmö Tourist Office and various shops around the city. Rates: SEK 100 (approx. £9) for 24 hours. www.malmotown.com

Climate/Temperature Sweden enjoys a generally temperate climate, thanks to the Gulf Stream. Above the Arctic Circle, winter can be crisp and invigorating. In the south, winter is generally mild with an ­average temperature above 0C/32F degrees, but temperatures can vary markedly in different parts of the country. Sweden’s northerly position has a definite summer advantage in that ­temperatures are rarely extreme and humidity levels are not high.

Diplomatic representatives

IN IRELAND Consulate General of Sweden Reddy Charlton McKnight, Solicitors 12 Fitzwilliam Place Dublin 2 Tel: +353 (0)1 265 08 88 Fax: +353 (0)1 678 9192 E-mail: consul.sweden.dublin@reddycharlton.ie www.swedenabroad.com IN SWEDEN British Embassy Skarpög. 6—8 Box 27819, SE-115 93 STOCKHOLM Tel: +46 8 671 30 00 Fax: +46 8 662 9989 (opening hours 9 — 17 weekdays) E-mail: info@britishembassy.se www.ukinsweden.fco.gov.uk British Consulate-General In Gothenburg Sextantgatan 14 SE-426 76 VÄSTRA FRÖLUNDA Tel: +46 31 696 453

Duty-free allowances

Food and Restaurants Sweden has attained an international reputation for culinary ­excellence in recent years and standards are high at all levels. Emphasis is placed on high-quality natural ingredients — notably fresh, pickled and smoked seafood (particularly herring, crayfish, salmon and eel) and game meats such as elk and reindeer. The famous Swedish smörgåsbord is rather less common these days, but most hotels offer a smörgåsbord-style breakfast and if you are in Sweden before Christmas you can sample the traditional “julbord” (Christmas buffet). Today’s multicultural society has also resulted in a wide variety of ethnic restaurants and an ­exciting “crossover” style in which traditional Swedish dishes are reinvented with new foreign influences. You will also find all the usual fast-food outlets and pizzerias, and you’re never far from a hot-dog stand selling the popular “varmkorv” (from just £1). A three-course meal with wine costs £25 — £45 in a medium-priced restaurant. A “dagens rätt” (dish of the day) is available in most restaurants at lunchtime, served from about 11am to 2pm. It costs £6 — £9 for a main course (often with a choice), bread and butter, salad, soft drink and coffee. There are plenty of cafés and cafeterias for lighter snacks.

Foreign exchange FOREX exchange offices are usually centrally located in the ­larger cities. Branches may also be found at major airports, ­major ferry terminals and railway stations. www.forex.se X-Change Exchange Shops are centrally located at various cities in Sweden and may also be found at major airports. www.x-change.se

Language Travellers can leave their phrase books at home when they go to Sweden. Most Swedes speak English.

Medical care The general practioner system does not apply in Sweden. Instead, you visit the nearest hospital clinic (“Akutmottagning” or “Vårdcentral”), taking your passport and European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) with you or you will be charged the full cost of the treatment. With an EHIC, you will still have to pay part of the cost, which is not refundable. You will also have to pay the full cost of dental treatment up to a fixed limit, and most of the cost above this limit. Any reductions will be made before you get your bill. Information on healthcare is available from Stockholm Care Tel: +46 8 672 24 00 E-mail: info@stockholmcare.se www.stockholmcare.se

Passport: A valid EU passport entitles you to a three-month stay in Sweden. Visas: Not usually required but non-EU citizens are advised to check with the Embassy of Sweden Consular Section 11 Montagu Place London W1H 2AL (tel: 020 7917 6418)

Pharmacies Prescriptions are dispensed at pharmacies (“Apotek”), which are generally open during normal shopping hours. In major cities, 24-hour service is available. If you are already on medication, make sure you have an adequate supply before leaving for Sweden.

Postal service Letters and postcards of up to 20 grams cost SEK 5.50 within Sweden and SEK 12 internationally. Stamps are available for sale at kiosks and supermarkets marked with a blue and yellow post and at most newsstands.

Public holidays in 2013 New Year’s Day. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Jan 1 Epiphany Day.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Jan 6 Good Friday.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mar 29 Easter Sunday.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mar 31 Easter Monday.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . April 1 May Day . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . May 1 Ascension Day.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . May 9 Sweden’s National Day . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Jun 6 Midsummer’s Day. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Jun 22 All Saints’ Day.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Nov 2 Christmas Eve. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dec 24 Christmas Day.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dec 25 Boxing Day.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dec 26 New Year’s Eve. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dec 31 Most establishments in Sweden are closed on the National Day, Midsummer’s Day, Christmas Eve, Christmas Day and New Year’s Day. This includes shops, banks, museums and restaurants. For the rest of the year Sunday hours apply to public holidays. A few restaurants are closed on Sundays and public holidays. Museums have their busiest days on public holidays — with the above exceptions.

Public phones When calling Sweden from the UK, please dial 0046 followed by the area code (omitting the initial zero) and the number ­required. When calling abroad from Sweden, dial 00 plus the country code, followed by the area code and phone number. Most pay phones in Sweden require either a prepaid phone card or a credit card, however some also accept coins. Phone cards are available in newsagents, kiosks, shops and supermarkets.

Sweden has set the pace for modern design the world over. High- quality cutlery, china, sports equipment, textiles, handicrafts, furs, crystal, jewellery, silver, fine glassware, pottery, furniture, quality cars and mobile phones.

Bargain hunting

Accommodation

Look for signs indicating sales. “REA” indicates a sale; “Extrapris”, used along with red price labels, indicates discounts of at least 10 percent; and “Fynd” indicates special offers.

For accommodation in Sweden please visit www.stayinsweden.com or book online on www.visitsweden.com/sweden/Accommodation/Book-online

Best buys High-quality glass and crystal are widely available throughout Sweden. For bargains on low-cost “seconds” visit the major glass­ works shops, such as Orrefors, Kosta Boda, etc., in Småland. For ceramics, Nya Höganäs Keramik, at Höganäs in southern Sweden, offers bargains at up to 40 percent below normal retail prices. Everywhere in Sweden, even in small villages, you will find “hemslöjd” shops where you can buy traditional handicrafts like knitwear, needlework and woodcarvings. Many traditional markets and country fairs are held in Sweden throughout the year. Some are big events attracting thousands of visitors. Enquire at local tourist offices about markets in the area you are visiting.

Smoking restrictions Smoking is not permitted in any public indoor area or onboard domestic aircraft or other public transport. Smoking is not ­p ermitted in stores, shops, restaurants, bars or other public buildings. Some hotels and airports still offer special rooms for smokers.

Time difference Sweden observes Central European Time, which is 1 hour ahead of Greenwich Mean Time, Clocks are put forward 1 hour for Day­ light Saving Time during the summer months (late March to late October).

Tipping A service charge is automatically included in most hotel bills. Tipping for special services provided by hotel staff is fine, but is not expected and is simply a matter of personal taste. At restaurants, a service charge is included in the bill, but a small gratuity is expected for evening meals. Taxi drivers should be given a few extra kronor. Porters and cloakroom attendants ­often charge fixed fees. Doormen at hotels and restaurants are tipped modestly.

Tourist offices Sweden has approximately 300 authorised tourist information offices, all offering excellent service by multi-lingual staff. Tourist offices with the green international “i” sign will be ­delighted to give you advice on what’s happening in the area, sights, excursions, etc as well as booking accommodation. Tourist offices with the blue and yellow “i” sign provide all the services listed above and help you with information and bookings for the whole of Sweden. For general tourism information about Sweden in English when you are in Sweden please call +46 633 91 03 34.

Stockholm Visitors Board, Booking office Tel: +46 8 508 285 08 www.visitstockholm.com Stockholm Hotelltjänst/Caretaker Tel: +46 8 10 44 37 or +46-8-10 44 57 E-mail: caretaker@hotelltjanst.com www.hotelltjanst.com Gothenburg Tourist Office, Booking Service Tel: +46 31 368 42 00 E-mail: goteborg@bestcitybooking.com www.goteborg.com/en Malmö Tourist Office, Booking office Tel: +46 40 34 12 00 E-mail: malmo.turism@malmo.se www.malmotown.com/en

Apartments and bed & breakfast Bed & breakfast holidays are popular in Sweden. In the countryside “Rum” signs indicate that accommodation is available in a private room. Rooms can be booked through local tourist ­offices. Private rooms are available from approx. £24 per ­person and up (normally not including breakfast). For more information, visit www.daysinsweden.com

Cabins and holiday homes Cabins and holiday homes are very popular in Sweden, often in idyllic locations by a lake or near the sea. Cottages and cabins are available for rent in most areas. A typical price for a week’s rental starts at £215. Contact the local tourist information offices for more info. www.stuga.nu www.eurocottage.com/sweden

Camping Sweden has some of the finest campsites in Europe, usually ­located in picturesque surroundings. Camping chalets and ­cottages, caravans and motor homes can also be rented. Camping Card Scandinavia provides discounts, offers and other benefits, and is accepted in many countries in Europe. As a cardholder you will receive accident insurance without paying any excess during your stay, faster check-in/check-out and up to 14 days’ credit during your stay. Camping Card Scandinavia can be applied for before you leave for Sweden at www.camping.se or purchased at any of the campsites in Scandinavia. The rate is SEK 140 (approx. £13) for a full year.


For more information, visit Swedish Camping Site Owners Association (SCR) Tel: +46 31 355 60 00 E-mail: info@scr.se www.scr.se

Hotels Sweden has a wide choice of high-standard hotels in all price ­categories. Most Swedish hotels include a lavish buffet breakfast and offer specials for families. Reduced prices are available at weekends throughout the year and also on weekdays from mid-June to mid-August. “Stay in Sweden 2013” is a comprehensive catalogue listing ­approx. 600 hotels throughout the country. Order the brochure from VisitSweden, Tel: 020-7108 6168 or find it online at www.stayinsweden.com

Youth and family hostels Sweden’s youth and family hostels, known as “vandrarhem”, ­offer facilities for an inexpensive vacation and are located all over the country, including the mountain regions. All ages are welcome. More than 300 are operated by The Swedish Touring Association. Tel: +46 8 463 21 00 E-mail: info@stfturist.se www.stfturist.se Membership in an organisation affiliated with the International Youth Hostel Federation is not required, but provides discounted rates. Average rate at STF hostels: approx. £20 per night (£4 additional for non-IYHF members). Discounts are available for children if their parents hold the Hostelling International Card or a national HI membership. SVIF is a smaller consortium of 185 independent hostels in Sweden, which has no membership requirements. Tel: +46 3 82 88 00 E-mail: info@svif.se www.svif.se

Transport How to get to Sweden For air routes, see table on page 48, for ferry routes, page 49.

Coach Routes Eurolines is the leading operator of scheduled coaches services to Europe, including Stockholm, Gothenburg and Malmö. For information and reservations, visit www.eurolines-travel.com

Rail Services The fastest rail route from the UK to Sweden is via the Eurostar service through the Channel tunnel from London (St. Pancras) or Ashford International (Kent) to Brussels, with onward trains to Copenhagen for connecting services to Sweden. Through trains operate from Copenhagen to destinations in Sweden via the bridge and tunnel across the Östersund strait. For more information, visit www.eurostar.com

Airport transfers LFV has information about most airport transfers on their website; www.lfv.se Stockholm (Arlanda) Airport The Arlanda Express is the airport express train between Stockholm City and Arlanda Airport. The journey takes 20 minutes and trains depart 4 — 6 times an hour. One-way fare is SEK 260 (approx. £25). Concessions are available. For more information, visit www.arlandaexpress.com The airport is also served by long distance and local trains. For more information, visit www.arlanda.com Buses operate between Arlanda Airport and the City Terminal near Stockholm Central Station about every 10 minutes throughout the day. Night traffic is adjusted to flight arrivals and departures. The journey takes 45 minutes and costs SEK 99 (approx. £9). For more information, visit www.flygbussarna.se Regional buses and trains operate between Uppsala Central Station and Arlanda for most of the day. Travel time is 40 minutes by bus and costs SEK 100 (approx. £9). Train costs SEK 130 ­(approx. £12). For more information, visit www.ul.se A number of taxi companies operate in Stockholm, and their ­rates can vary. Most companies have fixed rates on transfers to and from Stockholm Arlanda Airport ranging from SEK 395 — 500 (£37 — 47). Make sure to confirm the rate before you leave the airport. The taxis from the larger companies always display the name of the driver and the car identification in the front window. Flygtaxi (Airport taxi) offers a car service that can be pre-booked online: www.flygtaxi.se/en or by calling Tel: +46 8 120 92 000 Stockholm Skavsta Airport Buses operate between Stockholm Skavsta Airport and the City Terminal near Stockholm Central Station. Travel time is approx. 80 minutes and the timetable dovetails with flight arrivals/ departures. Price is SEK 149 (approx. £14) at the airport and SEK 129 (approx. £12) when booking online. For more information, visit www.flygbussarna.se Gothenburg Landvetter Airport Buses operate between Landvetter Airport and Gothenburg Central Station (Nils Ericson Terminal) every 15 minutes at peak times and twice hourly throughout the rest of the day. Travel time is approx. 30 min. and the fares are SEK 99 (approx. £9) for adults, SEK 65 (approx. £6) for children aged 8 — 17. For more information, visit www.flygbussarna.se

www.flygtaxi.se/en or by calling Tel: +46 8 120 92 000 Gothenburg City Airport Buses operate between Gothenburg City Airport and Gothenburg Central Station (Nils Ericson Terminal) and the timetable is ­adjusted to flight arrivals and departures. Travel time is approximately 30 minutes and the fare for adults is SEK 79 (approx. £7). For more information, visit www.flygbussarna.se Copenhagen Kastrup Airport, Denmark Direct trains operate every 20 minutes between Copenhagen Airport and Malmö Central Station and to other destinations in Sweden via the Öresund Bridge. The trip takes 20 minutes. Oneway fare for adults is SEK 107 (approx £10), for children SEK 55 (approx £5) and a family ticket is SEK 217 (approx £21).

Rail travel The Swedish Rail Network Sweden has a highly efficient rail network spanning the entire country. Visitors travel smoothly and comfortably across the countryside on some of Europe’s most modern trains, in first or second class carriages. On longer trips, couchettes and sleeping car facilities are provided and long distance trains generally have a buffet car. The Swedish high-speed train X 2000, travels at up to 200 km/ hour (125 mph) on all major routes and offers the highest standards of comfort, with radio and music outlets by all seats. In full-fare business class you will be served a meal at your seat, and in second class you have access to a Bistro car, where hot or cold meals are available. For more information, visit www.sj.se The Swedish rail network is operated by a few major train ­operators; SJ, Veolia, Tågkompaniet, BK Tåg, LINX, Connex and Inlandsbanan. As an extension to the railway network, buses operate on a frequent basis as a link to smaller cities and ­villages, which can be booked in connection with your railway ticket. For more information, visit www.resplus.se The “Inlandsbanan” (Inland Railway) is a 807-mile/1300-km ­route from Kristinehamn in central Sweden to Gällivare in the north, passing through the Swedish inland. Inlandsbanan is a privately owned company offering tours in the summer. Bicycles can be transported on the train. For more information, visit www.inlandsbanan.se and www.grandnordic.se Or call + 46 (0)63 194 400 E-mail. info@inlandsbanan.se The “Öresundrunt card” allows travel on boats and trains on both sides of Öresund, in Sweden and Denmark. The card also includes discounts on accommodation and many of the region’s best attractions. For more information, visit www.skanetrafiken.se Tel: +46 771 77 77 77 European Rail Passes The Eurail Group is a cooperation of 30 European Railway companies and shipping lines, which offers a number of different rail passes to non-European residents. Eurail Passes entitle you to hop on and off trains in Europe, just choose the number of countries and travel days you prefer. For more information, visit: www.eurail.com

Best Served Scandinavia/Wexas 0207 838 5956 sales@best-served.co.uk, www.wexas.com, www.best-served.co.uk

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DFDS Seaways 0871 522 9978 travel.sales@dfds.com, www.dfds.com

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Discover the World 0173 721 8800 travel@discover-the-world.co.uk, www.discover-the-world.co.uk

The Luxury Cruise Company 0800 6123 354 info@theluxurycruisecompany.com, www.theluxurycruisecompany.com

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Nature Travels 0192 950 3080 admin@naturetravels.co.uk, www.naturetravels.co.uk

Specialised Tours 0134 271 2785 info@specialisedtours.com, www.specialisedtours.com

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Nordic Experience 0120 670 8888 reservations@nordicexperience.co.uk, www.nordicexperience.co.uk Simply Sweden 0845 890 0300 info@simplysweden.co.uk, www.simplysweden.co.uk

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Mighty Fine Company 0845 072 0090 sales@mightyfinecompany.com, www.mightyfinecompany.com

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Stena Line 0844 770 7070 www.stenaline.co.uk

Sunvil Holidays 0208 758 4722 discovery@sunvil.co.uk, www.sunvil.co.uk/sweden

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Taber Holidays 0127 487 5199 info@taberhols.co.uk, www.taberhols.co.uk

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Weekend à la Carte 0172 274 4695 info@weekendalacarte.co.uk, www.weekendalacarte.co.uk

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Regional and local tourists offices Stockholm and surrounding area Stockholm Tourist Center Tel: +46 8 508 285 08 touristinfo@stockholm.se www.visitstockholm.com Destination Uppsala Tel: +46 18 727 48 00 info@destinationuppsala.se www.uppland.nu Sörmlands Tourism Tel: +46 155 22 27 70 stua@stua.se www.stua.se Västmanlands Kommuner & Landsting (Association of Local Authorities and County Council) Tel: +46 21 39 79 40 info@vkl.se www.vkl.se

Wedding packages

Walking

Tailor made tours

Swedish Specialist

Swedish Lapland

Soft Adventures

Skiing/winter holidays

Self-catering

Rail tours

Northern Lights

Motoring holidays

Fly-drive

Ferries

Eco-tourism

Cycling

Cultural tours

For more information, visit www.flysas.som www.lfv.se

Tour Operators Listing 2013

Cruise

Domestic transport is quite sophisticated in Sweden. Several major cities can be reached in less than an hour by air and there are several departures daily.

A number of different taxi companies operate in Gothenburg, and their rates can vary. Most companies have fixed rates ­b etween Landvetter Airport and the centre of Gothenburg for around SEK 325 (approx. £31). Make sure to confirm the rate before you leave the airport. Flygtaxi (Airport taxi) offers a car service that can be pre-booked online:

City breaks/short breaks

Domestic flights

Castles and manor houses

Important safety note: Only propane gas (e.g. Primus) is ­normally obtainable in Sweden. Equipment designed to burn ­butane must not be filled with propane; this is not only illegal but also highly dangerous. Propane and cooking, heating or ­lighting equipment is inexpensive and widely available in Sweden at more than 2,000 Primus dealers. Some gas stations also stock butane.

Inland waterway trips

Tour Operators / Regional and local tourists offices 47

Travel facts, A — Z 46

North Sweden Swedish Lapland Tel: +46 920 25 79 90 info@swedishlapland.com www.swedishlapland.com Kiruna Lapland Tourist Office Tel: +46 980 188 80 info@kirunalapland.se www.kirunalapland.se Västerbottens Tourism Västra Norrlandsgatan 13 Tel: +46 90 16 57 00 www.vasterbotten.net Jämtland/Härjedalens Tourist Association Tel: +46 63 14 40 22 www.jamtland.se info@jamtland.se

Central Sweden Tourist Information Dalarna Tel: +46 23 640 04 info@visitdalarna.se www.visitdalarna.se

Hälsingland Tourism Ek Förening Tel: +46 278 62 40 08 info@halsingland.se www.halsingland.com

Region Halland Tel: +46 35 13 48 00 info@halland.se www.halland.se

Öland Tourist Center Tel: +46 485 89 000 turistinfo@oland.se www.olandsturist.se

Gästrikland Tourism Tel: +46 26 17 71 17 turist@gavle.se www.gastrikland.com

East Sweden

Visit Blekinge Tel: +46 455 30 50 00 info@visitblekinge.se www.visitblekinge.se

Värmland Tourism Board Visit Värmland Tel: +46 54 701 10 00 visit@varmland.se www.varmland.se

West Sweden West Sweden Tourist Board Tel: +46 31 81 83 00 info@vastsverige.com www.west-sweden.com Göteborg & Co Tel: +46 31 368 40 00 turistinfo@goteborg.com www.goteborg.com

East Sweden Tourist Board Tel: +46 13 26 27 28 info@visitostergotland.se www.ostergotland.info

South-East Sweden Gotlands Tourist Association Tel: +46 498 20 17 00 info@gotland.info www.gotland.info Eastern Småland & Öland (Regionförbundet Kalmar län) Tel: +46 480 41 77 00 www.smaland-oland.se Smålands Tourism Tel: +46 36 35 12 70 info@visitsmaland.com www.visit-smaland.com

South Sweden Business Region Skåne AB Tel: +46 40 675 30 01 info@skane.com www.skane.com Malmö Tourism Tel: +46 40 34 12 00 malmo.turism@malmo.se www.malmotown.com


Flights 48

Ferry routes 49

Scheduled air routes to Sweden from the UK and Ireland 2013 The UK and Ireland to Sweden

The UK and Ireland to Copenhagen (for access to southern Sweden)

DEPARTURE ARRIVAL

DEPARTURE ARRIVAL

Scandinavian Airlines Tel: 0871 226 7760 www.flysas.co.uk

Scandinavian Airlines Tel 0871 226 7760 www.flysas.co.uk

London (Heathrow) London (City) London (Heathrow) Edinburgh Birmingham Manchester

London (Heathrow) Copenhagen Birmingham Copenhagen Manchester Copenhagen

Stockholm (Arlanda) Stockholm (Arlanda) Gothenburg (Landvetter) Stockholm (Arlanda) Stockholm (Arlanda) Stockholm (Arlanda)

British Airways

Tel: 0844 493 0787, www.ba.com

London (Heathrow) London (Heathrow) Manchester

Stockholm (Arlanda) Gothenburg (Landvetter) Gothenburg (Landvetter)

British Airways

Tel 0844 493 0787 www.ba.com

London (Heathrow)

Copenhagen

Easy Jet

Tel 0843 104 5000 www.easyjet.com

London (Gatwick) Copenhagen London (Stansted) Copenhagen Manchester Copenhagen

Norwegian

Tel 0208 099 7254 www.norwegian.com

London (Gatwick) London (Gatwick) Edinburgh Manchester

Stockholm (Arlanda) Gothenburg (Landvetter) Stockholm (Arlanda) Stockholm (Arlanda)

BMI

Ryanair

Tel 0871 246 00 00 www.ryanair.com

Norwegian

London (Stansted) London (Gatwick) London (Stansted) London (Stansted) London (Stansted) Edinburgh Edinburgh

Stockholm (Skavsta) Stockholm (Skavsta) Stockholm (Västerås) Gothenburg (City) Malmö Stockholm (Skavsta) Gothenburg (City)

London (Gatwick) Copenhagen Edinburgh Copenhagen

Tel 0844 417 2600 www.bmiregional.com

Edinburgh Copenhagen Glasgow Copenhagen

Tel 0208 099 7254 www.norwegian.com

Ferry routes FROM

TO

LINE

TRAVEL TIME

FREQUENCY HIGH SEASON

FREQUENCY LOW SEASON

Gothenburg Trelleborg Trelleborg Trelleborg Trelleborg Malmö

Stena Line TT-Line Stena Line Stena Line TT-Line Finnlines/Nordö-Link

14 hours 5−6 hours 6 hours 4 hours 7−9 hours 9 hours

1 × daily 3 × daily up to 4 × daily up to 4 × daily 3−4 × daily 2−3 × daily

1 × daily 3 × daily up to 4 × daily up to 4 × daily 3−4 × daily 2−3 × daily

Puutgarden − Rødby and Helsingør

Helsingborg

Scandlines

45 min/20 min

Rostock − Gedser and Helsingør

Helsingborg

Scandlines

1 h 45 min / 20 min

every every every every

every every every every

Oslo

Color Line

18 hours

1 × daily

1 × daily

Fredrikshavn

Gothenburg

Stena Line

up to 6 × daily

up to 6 × daily

Rønne (Bornholm) Grenå Allinge (Bornholm) (13.06.-01.09.2013) Helsingør Helsingør

Ystad Varberg Simrishamn Helsingborg Helsingborg

Faergen Stena Line Bornholm Express Scandlines Sundbusserne

3.5 hours/2 hours on catamaran 1 hour 20 min 4.5−5.5 hours 1 hour 20 min 20 min

up to 8 × daily 2 × daily 2−3 × daily every 15-20 min 1 × hourly

3-4 × daily 2 × daily

Strömstad

Color Line

2.5 hours

up to 4−5 × daily

2−5 × daily

Copenhagen Oslo Kristiansand Larvik

DFDS Seaways Stena Line Color Line Color Line

17 hours 8.5/13 hours (day/night) 3 hours 15 min 3 hours 45 min

1 × daily 1 × daily 2 × daily 2 × daily

1 × daily 1 × daily 1 × daily 1 × daily

Grisslehamn Stockholm Stockholm Kapellskär Stockholm Stockholm Kapellskär Stockholm Stockholm Umeå

Eckerö Linjen Tallink Silja Viking Line Viking Line Viking Line Ånedinlinjen Finnlines Viking Line Tallink Silja RGline

2 hours 16.5−17 hours 16 hours 2−2.5 hours 5.5 hours 7 hours 15 min 8 hours 11 hours 11 hours 4.5 hours

3 × daily 1 × daily 1 × daily 2−3 × daily 4 × daily 1 × daily 3 × daily 2 × daily 2 × daily up to 2 × daily

2−3 × daily 1 × daily 1 × daily 2−3 × daily 4 × daily 1 × daily 3 × daily 2 × daily 2 × daily up to 1 × daily

Nynäshamn Karlskrona Ystad Ystad

Polferries Stena Line Polferries Unity Line

19 hours 10−12 hours 6−7 hours 7−9 hours

7 × weekly 1 × daily 1 × daily 2 × daily

6 × weekly 1 × daily 1 × daily 2 × daily

Nynäshamn Stockholm Stockholm Karlshamn

Stena Line Tallink Silja Tallink Silja DFDS Lisco

10−12 hours 16 hours 16 hours 13-14 hours

5 × weekly 1 × daily 1 × daily 1 × daily

5 × weekly 1 × daily 1 × daily 1 × daily

Cairnryan Liverpool Holyhead Holyhead Fishguard

Stena Line Stena Line Stena Line Stena Line Stena Line

2 hours 15 min 8 hours 2−3 hours 15 min 2−3 hours 15 min 3.5 hours

up to 6 × daily 2 × daily 4 × daily 1 × daily 2 × daily

up to 6 × daily 2 × daily 4 × daily 1 × daily 2 × daily

Hook of Holland Amsterdam

Stena Line DFDS Seaways

6 hours 45 min 16.5 hours

2 × daily 1 × daily

2 × daily 1 × daily

Esbjerg

DFDS Seaways

19 hours 15 min

4 × weekly

4 × weekly

Visby Visby

Destination Gotland Destination Gotland

3 hours 15 min 2 hours 55 min

up to 6 × daily up to 3 × daily

2 × daily 1 × daily

Malmö Korsör

Öresund Link Great Belt Bridge

Germany to Sweden Kiel Rostock Rostock Sassnitz Travemünde Travemünde

Germany to Sweden via Denmark

Germany to Norway (for central Sweden) Kiel

30 min/ 20 min 2 hours/ 20 min

30 min/ 20 min 2 hours/ 20 min

Denmark to Sweden

every 15−20 min 1 × hourly

Norway to Sweden Sandefjord

Denmark to Norway (a selection of routes) Oslo Fredrikshavn Hirtshals Hirtshals

Finland to Sweden Eckerö Helsinki − Mariehamn Helsinki − Mariehamn Mariehamn Mariehamn Mariehamn Naantali (Nådendalen) Turku (Åbo) − Mariehamn Turku (Åbo) − Mariehamn Vaasa (Vasa)

Poland to Sweden PHOTO CREDITS: (FRONT COVER) © Elisabeth Toll/LundLund. (PAGE 3) © Tomas Utsi/Naturfoto, © Elisabeth Toll/LundLund. (PAGE 4−5) © Björn Olin/Folio, © SvenskTenn, © Dick Clevestam/Naturbild, © Dick Clevestam/NordicPhotos, © Boqueria. (PAGE 6) © Nicho Södling/imagebank.sweden.se, © Marie Andersson/Skansen, © Björn Svensson/Bildarkivet, © iStock, © Ola Eriksson/imagebank.sweden.se, © Fotografiska, © Vasamuseet, © Jean-Baptiste Beranger/Artipelag. (PAGE 10−11) © Nicho Södling/imagebank.sweden.se, © Erik Olsson, © Göran Assner/imagebank.sweden.se, © Emilie Lager. (PAGE 12−13) © Leif Johansson/Bildarkivet, © Miriam Preis/ imagebank.sweden.se, © Leif Johansson/Bildarkivet, © Christian Andersson, © Andreas Offesson/Bildarkivet. (PAGE 14) © Stockholm Pride, © Mats Lindfors/Webbkusten, © Stefan Berg/Folio. (PAGE 15) © Kristian Löveborg, © Orrefors, © Frantzen Lindeberg. (PAGE 16−17) © Jonas Linell, © Acne, © Peo Olsson/Gärsnäs, © Jakob Dahlström, © Jakob Dahlström, © Fredrik Broman/ Humanspectra, © Thomas Harrysson/svensk Slöjd. (PAGE 20−21) © Tina Axelsson, © Felix Odell/Linkimage, © Bruno Ehrs/Stafva Gårdsmejeri, © Miriam Preis/imagebank. sweden.se, © Hotel Borgholm. Illustrations © Lars Esselius. (PAGE 22−23) © Jonas Overödder/imagebank.sweden.se, © Cecilia Larsson/imagebank.sweden.se, © Mikael Almse/ Västsvenska Turistrådet, © vdKG Design, © DalaFloda Värdshus, © Martin Svalander/imagebanksweden.se, © Gösta Fries, © Erik Olsson. Illustrations © Lars Esselius. (PAGE 24) © Lena Granefelt/imagebank.sweden.se

(PAGE 26−27) © Per-Erik Adamsson/Stockholms Hamnar, © Per-Erik Adamsson/Stockholms Hamnar, © Staffan Widstrand/imagebank.sweden.se, © Ola Eriksson/ imagebank.sweden.se (PAGE 28−29) © Elisabeth Toll/LundLund, © Bingo Rimér, © Henrik Trygg/imagebank.sweden.se, © Lisa Nestorson/ Västsvenska Turistrådet, © Matilda svensk, © Gabriel Berndtsson. (PAGE 30−31) FILM 2a uppslaget: © Erik G Svensson/Stockholm Visitors Board, © Jacob Forsell/Scanpix, © Sonypictures, © Rest AB Kvarnen/Thomas Steinwender, © Sven Halling/ Naturbild, © DN/Scanpix, © Nils Magnus Angantyr/Astrid Lindgrens Värld, © Bruno Ehrs/Linkimage, © Kentaroo Tryman/Naturbild. (PAGE 32) © Staffan Andersson/Sydpol.com, © Fredrik Ekblad, ystad.se, © Fredrik Ekblad, ystad.se, © Sandskogen.vendel­ restauranger.se (PAGE 34−35) © Tommy Pedersen/Junibacken, © Henning Ström/Liseberg, © Örjan Karlsson/Astrid Lindgrens Värld, © Moose Garden, © Universeum, © Roine Magnusson, © Frida Edlund/Vildmark i Värmland, © Orsa Grönklitt. (PAGE 36−37) © Tomas Utsi/Naturfoto, © Tomas Bergenfeldt/ Stockholm Adventures, © Johan Willner/imagebank.sweden.se, © Per Dahl/Johner. (PAGE 38−39) © Johan Willner/imagebank.sweden.se, © Anders Ekholm/Folio, © Staffan Widstrand, © Staffan Widstrand, © Håkan Vargas S/imagebank.sweden.se, © Håkan Vargas S/imagebank.sweden.se, © Antti Leinonen/Naturbild. (PAGE 40−41) © Johan Hammar/Landskapet JO, © The Silent Way, © Vargas Vildmarkslodge, © Nordic Footprints, © Kajak & Uteliv, © Stockholm Adventures, © Åre Äventyrsbild/JoPe Fors & Fjäll, © batbilden.se

(PAGE 42−43) © Simon Irvine/Läckö Slott, © Orrefors, © Jennie Pettersson/Folio, © Thomas Adolfsén/Bildarkivet, © Trons/Scanpix, © Bigben/ICEHOTEL, © Katarina Grip Höök/Linkimage. OTHER PHOTOGRAPHIC MATERIAL supplied by local tourism organisations, advertisers etc. PUBLISHED BY: VisitSweden, 5 Upper Montagu Street, London W1H 2AG. PROJECT TEAM: Per Nordström, Jane Wilde, Barbro McAusland, Jenny Aarnio, Jenny Jonevret. PRODUCTION: Stendahls Advertising Agency, Göteborg. PICTURE EDITORS, COPY AND GRAPHIC DESIGN: Britton & Britton. REPRO: Rolf Tryckeri, Skövde and Stendahls, Göteborg. PRINTED BY: Grafica Editoriale Printing, Bologna, Italy/ Blueprint AB, Stockholm. This brochure contains paid-for advertising and is not a ­complete listing. While every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information in this publication, the VisitSweden can accept no responsibility for any errors or omissions, nor for subsequent changes. Prices and other ­details were correct at October 2012 and currency conversions are based on exchange rates applicable at that time. Prices, dates, hours of opening etc are subject to alteration at short notice and readers are advised to check such details with their tour operator or travel agent. © VisitSweden 2012.

Danzig Gdynia Swinoujscie Swinoujscie

The Baltic Countries to Sweden Ventspils Tallinn − Mariehamn Riga Klaipeda

Ireland to the UK Belfast Belfast Dublin Dun Laoghaire Rosslare

UK to Holland Harwich Newcastle

UK to Denmark Harwich

Domestic Ferries Nynäshamn Oskarshamn

Bridges Copenhagen Nyborg

WEB SITES Stena Line, www.stenaline.co.uk TT-Line, www.ttline.com Scandlines, www.scandlines.com Color Line, www.colorline.com BornholmerFærgen, www.faergen.com

HH-Ferries, www.hhferries.se Sundbusserne, www.sundsbussarna.se DFDS Seaways, www.dfdsseaways.com Eckerö Linjen, www.eckerolinjen.com Destination Gotland, www.destinationgotland.se

Tallink Silja Line, www.tallinksilja.com Viking Line, www.vikingline.se Birka Cruises, www.birkacruises.com Ånedinlinjen, www.anedinlinjen.se RGline, www.rgline.com

Polferries, www.polferries.pl Unity Line, www.unityline.pl Öresund Fixed Link, www.oeresundsbron.dk Great Belt Bridge, www.storebaelt.dk


Sweden

0 545

Halmstad

637

145

Helsingborg

717

229

87

Karlstad

325

249

405

485

Kiruna

1092

1636

1729

1809

1417

Luleå

761

1306

1399

1479

1087

344

Malmö

768

280

138

66

536

1860

1529

Örebro

262

282

377

453

108

1354

1023

514

Östersund

400

270

961

1040

638

998

667

1091

587

Stockholm

172

471

492

572

300

1263

933

622

191

572

Sundsvall

214

759

852

932

540

877

547

982

477

188

386

Umeå

490

1034

1128

1208

815

602

271

1258

752

396

661

Umeå

Gävle Göteborg

Sundsvall

Stockholm

Östersund

Örebro

Malmö

Luleå

Kiruna

Karlstad

Helsingborg

Halmstad

Göteborg

Gävle

Distance [km]

275

0

Sweden  
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