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Ebola Outbreak WFP has launched a regional emergency operation to provide food assistance for around 1.3 million people in the three most affected countries: Guinea, Liberia and Sierra Leone. Food is being distributed to people under medical quarantine or FRQÂż QHG WR WKHLU YLOODJHV SHRSOH XQGHU WUHDWPHQW DQG WKHLU UHODWLYHV WFP is also building treatment centres and assisting the wider humanitarian community with logistics, helping other organizations to transport aid workers and critical supplies into the affected areas.
Help us to prevent a health crisis from becoming a food crisis. Donate at wfp.org/ebola
Join us on Facebook follow us @WFP
WINTER 2014/15 | V O L u M E 8 I S S u E 1 | C O N T E N T S
STYLE and LIVING
CSL AROuND THE CITy
11 HEALTHY LIVING Simple exercises (with big results) to keep ﬁt for the Winter 12-17 CSL ANNUAL GIFT GUIDE Gis for everyone on your list
19 FUSION e top products to stock up on for your pantry
28-29 Winter Warmth
36-47 Miami and The Florida Keys
20-21 IMBIBE Champagne legend Armand de Brignac plus three aﬀordable sparklers 22-23 KITCHEN Heavenly Swedish Semla cakes CSL FASHION
26 TREASURE TROVE e best new beauty products
27 HELEN OF TROY Makeup artist Daniel ompson on Holiday Makeup
28 ST YLIST Steal our Style Copycat look plus 3 great pieces to update your look CSL TRAVEL
33 TOUR GUIDE Actress Lauren Holly
48-55 SOUTH CAROLINA From upstate to Charleston and Kiawah Island, the U.S state proves that Southern Hospitality is alive and well IN EVERy ISSuE
THE CSL GREEN TICkER
If building from new, design a passive solar house to take advantage of solar gain with glass on the southeast, south and southwest sides.
4 | WINTER 2014/15 | citystyleandliving.com
5 FROM THE EDITORS 7 BEHIND THE COVER 57 FINAL THOUGHT
WELCOME FROM THE EDITORS
The drive from Charleston to Kiawah Island, South Carolina. P. 48
Rather than the usual shock of nipping wind, fall settled in with an ease that it hadn't in years. Every year we seem to have the same conversation. It tends to fall along the lines of, "where did the time fly?" It seems that as we get older the time slips away faster and faster. One season barely begins and we are already anticipating its end, wistfully wishing the previous season would reappear. In the magazine industry, editors and staff are perpetually looking to new trends, new gadgets, what’s next. When the calendar reads April we are in August preparing for swimsuits, beaches, and barbecue (all while snow is on the ground). In most jobs, in fact, we are striving to reach our next goal, meet an upcoming deadline or challenge. And so we are, nearing the end of 2014. Another year seems to have flashed by. The end of one year and beginning of the next usually sparks reflection, introspection and sometimes regret. We look at what we could have improved on, the mistakes we made and things we should have done.
Something curious happened this year after September passed. Rather than the usual shock of nipping wind, fall settled in with an ease that it hadn't in years. This year, winter seemed to be postponed for the first time in a long time, allowing us to really appreciate autumn. Leaves changed slowly from green to yellow, and more than ever we noticed the sumptuous auburn, copper and rust shades on the trees that, in previous years, changed at an accelerated speed and went unnoticed. Now, outside, the evergreen trees are topped with freshly fallen snow, the ground a blanket of the fluffy stuff. Instead of focusing on the (sometimes) bitter cold, the snowflakes seem to glimmer with the sun’s reflection. It made us think. This year, instead, we shall try not to look backward or forward. This year, try to look at right now. CSL
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citystyleandliving.com | WINTER 2014/15 | 5
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www.citystyleandliving.com Publisher K & S Media
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Managing Editor/Director of Advertising Dr. Rookmin Maharaj
Food Editor Kailash Maharaj Production Director Sonya Lambert 6 | WINTER 2014/15 | citystyleandliving.com
Contributors Amber Alent Marc Duncan Natalie Fox Numa Models Tamara Johnstone Daniel Thompson
Steven Busch Jennifer Eremeeva Arianna Grace Genvieve Magbi James S. Sinclair
Publications Agreement No. 41599042 City Style and Living is published four times each year. No part of this publication may be reproduced by any means in whole or in part without the prior written consent of the publisher. Although every eﬀort is taken to ensure accuracy, K & S Media cannot be held responsible for any errors, or omissions that may occur. The magazine assumes no responsibility for the safekeeping or return of unsolicited manuscripts, photographs, artwork or other material. All rights reserved 2014/2015. A proudly Green Magazine.
K&S MEDIA; ERNEST HON;
Fashion and Beauty Editor Shivana Maharaj
Publisher K & S Media - Earth is a Beautiful Heaven
The Cover Shoot BEHIND THE COVER
WHO? Numa Life Management Group WHERE? South Calgary THE MOOD? Cool, sophisticated, minimalist and sporty
“A statement winter coat is both essential and an easy way to stand out. Tartan, houndstooth and bold or pastel shades are great options.”
- SHIVANA MAHARAJ Editor in Chief
THE COVER LOOK
MODEL: Sydney N, Numa Life Management Group; numalife.com PHOTOGRAPHER: k&S Media, citystyleandliving.com
bareMinerals bareskin pure brightening serum foundation, bareescentuals.com
FROM THE SHOOT
DANNIJO belinda earring, $148; dannijo.com
TOPSHOP; DANNIJO; HOURGLASS; BAREMINERALS;
FRESH OFF THE RUNWAY AT PINK TARTAN FALL 2014/15 THE CSL GREEN TICkER
HOURGLASS Femme Rouge Velvet Crème Lipstick Reﬁll Cartridge, $28; sephora.ca
HAIR AND MAKEUP: Tamara Johnstone, Numa Life Management Group, numalife.com
STYLING: k&S Media
LOCATION: South Calgary
COVER: Topshop double breasted wool coat, $180 and Lord & Taylor Cable knit Cashmere Scarf, $99.99 (left); thebay.com
3 AWESOME HOLIDAY MAKEUP TIPS
1 Choose a focus The red lip never goes out of style and is huge for this season. Choose a moisturizing cream lipstick to combat dry winter weather 2 Skin should be ﬂawless. Try a miineral ﬁnish which sets your look and keeps it looking translucent, and fresh. 3 For a more sultry, glamorous look, ad d single eyelashes to the outer lashline. Securely aﬃx with a silicone based glue.
Need to clean ceramic, linoleum and vinyl ﬂoors? use 16 parts warm water mixed with 1 part vinegar for mopping.
citystyleandliving.com | WINTER 2014/15 | 7
CONSULTING SERVICES LTD.
Q: What is your favourite winter tradition?
Excellence, Innovation and Industry Leader
Leaders in oversight and governance in Western Canada. Used as a compass by corporations, educational, healthcare, and political institutions to build better boards, management, employees, and to improve and increase the bottom line.
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R.M. CONSULTING SERVICES LTD. Excellence in Governance firstname.lastname@example.org
IN CSL: P. 34-35
IN CSL: P. 27
DANIEL THOMPSON @DTBeauty
JENNIfEr ErEMEEvA @JWeremeeva
Jennifer Eremeeva is an American food and humor writer who has called Moscow home for two decades. She is the author of Lenin Lives Next Door: Marriage, Martinis, and Mayhem in Moscow and Have personality Disorder, Will Rule Russia: A Concise History of Russia. To ﬁnd out more about Jennifer and travel to Russia, visit her website.
Lenin Lives Next Door: Marriage, Martinis, and Mayhem in Moscow is Eremeeva’s ﬁrst book, and she is also publishing a companion piece titled Have personality Disorder, Will Rule Russia: A Concise History of Russia, which will be available as a free download to anyone who purchases Lenin Lives Next Door, or available for $1.99 on Amazon. Lenin Lives Next Door can be purchased from amazon.com, barnesandnoble.com, and through Lightning print at bookstores.
Humor : russialite.com Food: moscovore.com
A Russian winters are long, and there are many
holiday traditions associated with this signature season, which culminates in the raucous tradition of Maslenitsa, or Carnival, which is the last feast before Great Lent begins. Russians celebrate this by eating pancakes with all manner of sweet and savory toppings, drinking vodka, visiting friends, and sliding down huge ice mountains. This traditional festival never went out of fashion, even during the atheist Soviet era, but now it is back with a vengeance!
Starting his career in 1993 working with top industry retailers such as Gucci Group, yves Saint Laurent beauté and L'Oréal paris, Thompson joined the Red Door Spa group of New york, becoming a certiﬁed advanced aesthetician in the Elizabeth Arden principles as the spa industry grew. In 2003, he founded Thompson Consulting, specializing in business development, motivational workshops and retail growth for spas, paramedical clinics and major cosmetics corporations. He has consulted across Canada and lectured in New york, Oslo and Dubai. Thompson has served on the faculty at Elmcrest College and is recognized by the Ministry of Education of Ontario as a vocational instructor, most recently he has held the position as partial Load professor at the Humber College business School. Thompson was the creator and host of The One Minute Make Over, broadcast across Canada on the Standard Radio Network. He has also been a contributing writer for Les Nouvelles Esthetiques (Canada), City Style and Living Magazine and is the online author of beauty: busted! for yummymummyclub.ca. Thompson is a trusted media resource, and has appeared in: The Toronto Star, The Globe and Mail, The Financial post, Lou Lou, Flare, Fashion, Hello, Holt Renfrew Trend Report, Wish, Elevate, best Health and numerous local and niche publications. He has been featured on Entertainment Tonight, CityLine, breakfast Television, Slice TV’s princess and many regional programs.
A Cavalcade of Lights kick Oﬀ at Nathan phillips Square: It is the oﬃcial start to my holiday season my friends and I all bundle up and take hot chocolate to City Hall to watch the concert and oﬃcial tree lighting. We hang out and chat and of course get in the holiday mood. The very best part of the evening for me, is the ﬁreworks display. Even as a grown man I am still amazed by ﬁreworks. They are fun to watch and always make me smile.
COURTESY DANIEL THOMPSON; JENNIFER EREMEEVA
Around e City
CITY STYLE AND LIVING
Snuggle up, enjoy the simple comforts of home. K&S MEDIA
FASHION STYLING Art Direction
CSL’s travel style in Miami and The Florida Keys
Memories from Kiawah Island in South Carolina, USA
Rabbit and chanterelles from Michelin star The Alcron in Prague
K&S Media email@example.com www.citystyleandliving.com/k-s-media
Stay connected with City Style and Living Magazine, follow us on CSL’s social media venues: facebook.com/citystyleandliving
Earth is a beautiful heaven
Moves to maintain your ﬁtness routine during the holidays
>> Stand with feet shoulder width apart and hands behind your head >> Lift left knee up to meet left elbow, squeezing oblique muscles (outer abs) each time >> Switch, lift right knee to right elbow
IGNITE BY SPRI use these powerful cords to workout legs and arms. power Resistance Cord from $29.99; target.ca
>> Grab cans of soup or 2-3lb weights in each hand >> Lift arms out to the side to shoulder height, in a “T”position >> Lower arms to your side. Repeat
2 Explosive Squats >> Stand with legs shoulder width apart, place clasped hands in front for balance COURTESY IGNITE; DOD FITNESS;
>> Get into squat position, shifting weight to heels >> push oﬀ of balls of feet and jump high into the air, landing back on feet
DOD FITNESS Take the unnecessary knee discomfort out of kneeling. knee Donuts, $19.99 per pair; dodﬁtness.com
basic Lunge >> Stand with feet slightly apart >> Step out with your left leg in front of you, making sure that your knee is over your ankle. place right leg behind you and lower your body weight. Repeat with right leg.
HOW MANy REpS? Do 20-30 reps of each exercise 2-3 times a week for best results.
GAIAM Work your abs, butt and legs with this versatile soft ball. Wasabi balance ball. $21.98; gaiam.com
citystyleandliving.com | WINTER 2014/15 | 11
2014 City Style and Living
CSL’S PICKS FOR EVERYONE ON YOUR LIST!
12 | WINTER 2014/15 | citystyleandliving.com
COURTESY THE CONTAINER STORE
CSL GIFT GUIDE 2014 For the Gentleman Classic holiday presents for the man in your life
IN D I G O
TO bO O T N E W yO R k
1. L A N DS ’ E N D
COURTESY MODART; PACO RABANNE; INDIGO; LANDS END; BRAUN; ICEBREAKER
FOR HIM 1. Lands’ End Men's Cable Shawl Collar Cardigan, $151.03; landsend.com 2. In digo Gin kit, $49.50; chapters.indigo.ca 3. To boot New york Wingtip brogue, $525; toboot.com 4. p aco Raban ne Invictus Eau de parfum, pacorabanne.com 5. braun Series 5 shaver $189.99 – $229.99; braun.com 6. Modart Tour Caddie bag, $641.89; tourspecgolf.com 7. Harry Rosen Gary Taxali “I Heart us” silk pocket square, $95; harryrosen.com 8. Icebreaker Apex long sleeve half zip, $159.99; icebreaker.com
bRA u N
4. p A CO R Ab AN N E
6. M O D A RT
7. HA R R y R O S E N
8. I CE b RE Ak E R citystyleandliving.com | WINTER 2014/15 | 13
CSL GIFT GUIDE 2014 For the Lady e best to give and receive this season
1. pA ND O RA
6. R Ay b AN
LA ND S’ END
3. T H I E R R y Mu G L E R
A R IT Z IA
5. IN D I G O
7. H E yS
FOR HER 1. pandora Leaves silver ring with cubic zirconia (left), $100 and Leaves silver ring ($60), pandora.net 2. Lands’ End blakeley Ankle boots, $174.64, landsend.com 3. Thierry Mugler Les Exceptions, 80ml, $185, muglerusa.com 4. Aritzia banks dress, $110, us.aritzia.com 5. Indigo Large pouch oh dear ﬂax, $19.50, chapters.indigo.ca 6. Ray ban Leather wayfarer, $300, ray-ban.com 7. Heys Island paradise Laser Cut Crossbody, $75, handbags.heys.ca
14 | WINTER 2014/15 | citystyleandliving.com
COURTESY HEYS; INDIGO; THIERRY MUGLER; RAY BAN; ARITZIA; LANDS END; PANDORA
CSL GIFT GUIDE 2014 For the Globetrotter Wander the globe and bring a little piece of home comfort to your travels
1. TO M S
JOuRNALS & pLANNERS
1 0 T H O uS AN D V I L L A G E S
COURTESY ANTHONY; KARMA; FLIGHT 001; HERSCHEL SUPPLY CO; TOMS; TEN THOUSAND VILLAGES; PEPER PAUPER PRESS; PAPYRUS
F LI GH T 001
papyrus 2015 Green painterly Cheetah 17-Month Weekly Agenda by kate Spade New york. $30; papyrusonline.com
Small enough to fit in your pocket
AN T H O N y
k A R MA
FOR THE WORLD TRAVELLER 1. Toms kilgore Silver pop blue sunglasses, $139, toms.ca 2. CAT b15 Mobile phone, $99.99 two year Talk & Text plan with Rogers; catphones.com 3. Anthony The essential traveler kit, $70, anthony.com 4. 10 Thousand Villages, Skylight Squares Scarf (Made in Laos), $49; tenthousandvillages.ca 5. Flight 001F1 Aeroline Zip Document, $30, ﬂight001.com 6. karma portable wiﬁ, $14/Gb; yourkarma.com
peter pauper press Celestial Journal. $12.99; peterpauper.com
citystyleandliving.com | WINTER 2014/15 | 15
CSL GIFT GUIDE 2014 For Kids and Teens Get the child or teen in your life a present they will cherish
1. O pI
HERS CHEL S upp Ly C O.
ALSO GREAT FOR WOMEN
Arm & Hamm er Spinbrush Super Mario bros Toothbrush. $8.99 each; armandhammer.ca
2. IN D I G O
4. p A JA R
Lonely planet kids Amazing World. $24; lonelyplanet.com
GIFTS FOR THE kIDS 1. OpI Gwen Holiday 2014 Collection (18 lacquers), $11.50 each, opi.com 2. Indigo Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s shearling reading socks (in fawn), $34.50, chapters.indigo.ca 3. Herschel Supply Company Anchor sleeve Ipad Air, $29.99; shop.herschelsupply.ca 4. pajar The Rebel Aventure boot; pajar.com
16 | WINTER 2014/15 | citystyleandliving.com
COURTESY: PAJAR; INDIGO; OPI; LONELY PLANET; LEAPFROD; ARM AND HAMMER
Leapfrog Leapband activity tracker. $49.99; LeapFrog.ca
CSL GIFT GUIDE 2014 For the Home Enhance the beauty of your place and add a few gadgets to your kitchen
N A Mb E
I N DI G O
4. T- FA L
R O N A H O M E AN D G AR DE N
TRu D EA u
FOR THE HOMEbODy 1. Nambe Sleigh with Reindeer by Todd Myers, $225; nambe.com 2. Indigo Garter stitch throw in charcoal, $69.50 and oil print knit pillow in medium grey, $69.50; chapters.indigo.ca 3. Oster Versa 1400 High performance blender, $249.99; oster.ca 4. T-fal Clipso Essential pressure Cooker 9L, $339.99; t-fal.ca 5. Rona Home and Garden birch Tree Candle Holder Short and Tall, $5.99, $7.99; rona.ca 6. Trudeau pastry mat, $24.99; trudeaucorp.com
citystyleandliving.com | WINTER 2014/15 | 17
CITY STYLE AND LIVING
Curl up by the ямБre with a warm cup of cocoa and a few comforting bites.
COURTESY HAPPY PLANET; LA COSTENA; ALTER ECO
FUSION Global Food WHERE TO EAT AND WHAT pRODuCTS TO TRy by AMbER ALENT
Three For the Kitchen GREAT NEW PRODUCTS
What you should buy now
La Costeña EDITOR’S pI Ck
COURTESY HAPPY PLANET; LA COSTENA; ALTER ECO
HAPPY PLANET KAWARTHA CHICKEN NOODLE SOUP Canadian-made in small kettle
batches, this award winning line of soups features natural and certiﬁed organic ingredients. With free-range chicken from farms in the kawartha Lakes region of Ontario, and orzo, parsley and a pinch of thyme, this is a great soup for cold season! (happyplanet.com)
THE CSL GREEN TICkER
LA COSTEÑA CHIPOTLE PEPPERS IN ADOBO SAUCE This super smoky spicy sauce can be
added to stews, topped on grilled meat or added to enhance a mole sauce. CSL can’t get enough of this versatile Mexican condiment, made following an original Aztec tradition. (lacostena.com.mx)
ALTER ECO ORGANIC ROYAL RAINBOW QUINOA Cultivated high in the bolivian salt ﬂats,
quechua and Aymara farmers grow the uSDA organic and Fair for life multicoloured pearl shaped mother grain. The grains add texture to salads and in less than 30 minutes, CSL testers created a ﬂuﬀy pilaf style side with kale, sautéed pumpkin and tangy dressing. (alterecofoods.com)
Save the water used for rinsing dishes or taking showers (grey water) for watering plants. Invest in energy-eﬃcient appliances.
citystyleandliving.com | WINTER 2014/15 | 19
IMBIBE Global Spirits
WHAT’S NEW AND GREAT IN THE WORLD OF WINE AND SpIRITS
EDITED by STEVEN buSCH
ACE OF SPADES: The Legend Loved by hip hop artists worldwide, the cult champagne Armand de brignac, Ace of Spades brut Gold Champagne has much more to it than it’s mystique
WHERE IT ’S F ROM Chigny-les-Roses, France. Owned by the same family since 1763, and made by a staff of eight. WHA T IT ’ S M A D E WI TH 40% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir, 20% Pinot Meunier grapes.
P RIC E Coming in near the top of the list, indulge in this luxury Champagne for ultra special occasions. PA IRIN G Champagne loves food. The effervescence and celebratory nature makes this champagne match with salty caviar, dark chocolate and creamy sauces. TH E PR ES ENTATIO N A fashion in itself, the shiny gold bottle encased in a lacquered wooden case is fitted with an engraved tin nameplate, lined in black velvet. Who wouldn’t want this under the tree? DID YO U K NO W? The Champagne is aged in one of the deepest cellars in Champagne at 119 steps (30 meters) underground, enabling a slow, cool aging. armanddebrignac.com
3 COOL SPARKLERS
The Armand de Brignac vineyards and the surrounding Chigny-les-Roses.
The best Champagne tips we’ve ever heard CHILLING OUT
According to the Comité Champagne, the appropriate temperature to serve is 8-10 °C (47-50°F). Cooler and the aromas will be difficult to detect, warmer and the champagne will appear heavy. Chill in an ice bucket for half an hour or in the fridge for 3-4 hours.
GREAT PAIRINGS Reserved for special celebrations, champagne deserves to be paired with food that is as precious. Why not try a creamy mushroom risotto topped with shaved black truffle or a few drops of truffle oil or pair demi-sec champagne with your dessert course, especially chocolate.
WINE GEEK 101
What exactly is vintage versus non vintage? All champagne wines spend at least 15 months aging in the producer’s cellars. This increases to three years for vintage champagne (hence the price difference), bringing out richness and flavour.
3 Giusti Prosecco D.O.C. Brut Veneto, Italy
Noble Ridge 'The One' Canada
20 | WINTER 2014/15 | citystyleandliving.com
Cava Marques De Gelida Brut Exclusive Spain
COURTESY ARMAND DE BRIGNAC; NOBLE RIDGE; CAVA MARQUES; GIUSTI;
TA STE Complex and full-bodied, with light floral notes, deep fruit, and brioche accents. The Champagne has a lovely density and depth. Tight bead, creamy texture, and a long finish. A complex but sharply focused brut.
Get creative with your cocktails this holiday season and rev up your repertoire with these zingers
THE BOTANIST ISLAY DRY GIN & AUTUMN TONIC
By Taylor Corrigan, The Botanist Gin Canadian Ambassador
By Madeleine MacDonald, Model Milk Bistro Calgary
Ingredients 1.5 oz The Botanist Islay Dry Gin 0.5 oz autumn tonic* 4 oz soda water or Perrier
Ingredients 1 oz Cointreau 1 oz The Botanist Islay Dry Gin 1 egg white 1 oz fresh lime juice ¾ oz gewürztraminer syrup* Dash orange ﬂower water Soda water Nasturtium ﬂower for garnish
*Autumn Tonic 80 g cinchona bark (optional) 10 g cinnamon bark 5 g sage leaf 5 g chamomile ﬂowers 10 g dried grapefruit zest 440g sugar 10 g citric acid 4 g salt 750g water
* Gewurztraminer Wine Syrup 1 bottle of Gewürztraminer 2 cups sugar Method For the syrup: Combine ingredients in a pot and bring to a boil. Simmer for 15 minutes. Cool down. Syrup can be kept for up to 2 weeks in the refrigerator. For the cocktail: Combine all ingredients except for soda and garnish in a mixing glass. Dry shake. Shake with ice. Double strain into a rocks glass without ice. Let settle for 1-2 min. Top with soda. Garnish with nasturtium ﬂower or any other edible ﬂowers.
RÉMY MARTIN FRENCH MOJITO Ingredients 1½ oz Rémy Martin VSOP 1 oz fresh lime juice 1 tbsp brown sugar 7 to 10 mint leaves 3 oz sparkling water
Method Place mint leaves, Rémy Martin VSOP, sugar and lime juice in the glass, muddle and add crushed ice. Top with sparkling water and garnish with mint leaves.
THE COCkTAIL: Mount Gay Rum Captain's Order
COURTESY MOUNT GAY; REMY MARTIN; THE BOTANIST GIN; COINTREAU
“THE CApTAIN’S ORDER IS A SpICy MAN-DRINk bLENDING NOTES OF CINNAMON, GINGER, AND bLACk pEppER WITH THE LIp TINGLING SpICE OF CHILI pEppERS.”- quinn Candler, Earls Edmonton Ingredients 1.5 oz Mount Gay Eclipse rum 0.25 oz Cointreau 0.25 oz Remy Martin VSOP Cognac 0.25 oz cinnamon demerara syrup 0.25 oz ginger syrup 0.25 oz lime juice 2 dashes of angostura bitters Pinch of whole black peppercorns Pan fried pickled chili peppers
Method For the autumn tonic: In a stainless steel pot bring water to boil. Remove from heat and add all remaining ingredients. Stir vigorously until sugar, salt and citric acid are dissolved. Let steep for 20 minutes and then strain all ingredients through ﬁne cheesecloth. Reserve liquid for later use and discard remaining solids. Syrup will keep refrigerated for 1 week. For the cocktail: In an ice ﬁlled rocks glass (approx. 10 oz) combine The Botanist Islay Dry Gin and autumn tonic. Stir gently until well combined. Top with soda to taste and garnish with sliced local apple and fresh sage leaf on a cocktail pick.
Method Rim glass with chili pepper, shake well all of the ingredients with ice in a shaker. Double strain into a rocks glass with a single large ice cube. Garnish with a single chili pepper, ground black pepper, and half a soaked cinnamon stick. remy-cointreau.com
citystyleandliving.com | WINTER 2014/15 | 21
A traditional sweet bread served during the holidays, add this warm and comforting dessert to your repertoire. Recipe by k&S Media 22 | WINTER 2014/15 | citystyleandliving.com
JAMES S. SINCLAIR
The bun: Don’t bake buns too much in advance – a warm bun adds to the sumptuous combination.
The filling: Premade marzipan can be hard. To soften slightly add a little warm milk to blend to optimal texture.
SWEDISH SEMLA CAKE
1. preheat oven to 375 F (190 C).
Makes 16 buns. Serve warm Ingredients 2 eggs cup (158 ml) melted butter cups (375 ml) warm milk 1½ 1½ teaspoon (7 ml) active dry yeast 5 cups (1250 ml) all-purpose ﬂour plus 1 cup ½ cup (125 ml) granulated sugar plus 2 tablespoons ½ teaspoon (5 ml) salt 1 teaspoon (5 ml) ground cardamom 1 teaspoon (5 ml) ground clove 4 teaspoons (20 ml) baking powder ½ cup milk (125 ml), or as needed ½ cup (125 ml) marzipan 2 cups (500 ml) whipping cream 1 teaspoon (5 ml) vanilla extract icing sugar for dusting
JAMES S. SINCLAIR
THE INGREDIENT CHECkLIST
2. In a large bowl, whisk together eggs, butter and milk. Sprinkle with yeast and allow to activate for 5 minutes. In another bowl, sift together ﬂour with ½ cup sugar, salt, ground clove and ground cardamom. Once yeast has bloomed, stir ﬂour mixture into milk mixture forming a soft dough. Cover bowl with a damp towel, and allow to rise in a warm spot for 30 minutes. 3. Mix together remaining ﬂour and baking powder. Stir into risen dough, and knead until smooth. Form into 16 dough balls and place onto greased baking sheet. Cover with a towel, and allow to rise again until doubled in size, approximately 30-40 minutes.
Serving: Traditionally, semla are served in a shallow bowl or plate into which cardamom infused milk is slowly poured. 5. Once cooled, cut a slice about ½ inch (1.5 cm) thick oﬀ of the top of the bun and set aside. Scoop out the center of the buns. Tear the center of the buns into small pieces and place in a bowl. Moisten the bread with milk, then mix in marzipan until smooth. Add additional milk if needed, until the marzipan ﬁlling has the consistency of thick cream. 6. Meanwhile, whip cream with remaining sugar to stiﬀ peaks. Fill each bun with a spoonful of marzipan ﬁlling. pipe whipped cream on top of the ﬁlling. Replace the tops onto the buns, and dust with icing sugar before serving. Serve traditionally with cardamom infused warm milk.
4. bake for 15 minutes or until golden brown and the center is cooked. Cool buns on a wire rack.
WHIPPED CREAM No cutting corners here! Use full fat whipping cream (35% milk fat) and whip to soft peaks, avoid using frozen whipped topping or pre-whipped cream.
The rich sweet almond flavour adds to the taste of this dessert. Although we used premade you can make marzipan from scratch. For a twist, try varying the nut.
CARDAMOM PODS Related to the ginger family, and the world’s third most expensive spice, the earthy, comforting flavour permeates dishes – so use sparingly.
citystyleandliving.com | WINTER 2014/15 | 23
BCBGMaxAzria Estelle Long-Sleeve Lace Peplum Top, $171; bcbg.com
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CITY STYLE AND LIVING
It doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get any better than winter white - mix it up with varying textures like this opaque lace-like cut out peplum top.
HELEN OF TROY
W H AT â&#x20AC;&#x2122; S N E W I N T H E W O R L D O F S k I N , b E A u T y , M A k E u p A N D W E L L - b E I N G The look at Versace Haute Couture
GET THE LOOK
COURTESY MERCEDES BENZ FASHION WEEK
Jazz up the cat eye this season layering thick black eyeliner with metallic shadow overtop and pair with a neutral lip.
citystyleandliving.com | WINTER 2014/15 | 25
5 Great Products
products CSL loves, and you should try too
by NATALIE FOx
1. BLANK CANVAS
Who says you canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t combine flawless skin with added benefits for your skin? Perricone MD No Makeup Skincare Collection Kit (No Foundation Foundation Serum, No Blush Blush, No Mascara Mascara, No Lipstick Lipstick, Face Finishing Moisturizer) is all you need to create a healthy glow and provide skin with anti-aging skincare technology. $75 USD; perriconemd.com
2. SCENT OF A WOMAN
Why not spritz a little scent into your hair? Available in three fragrances, the light aromas from Fekkai Hair Fragrance Mist Collection add a subtle gloss to strands. CSL loved Citron et Menthe with its minty fresh boost. $25.00 $28.00, 1.7 fl. oz. bottle; fekkai.com
Get your body feeling divine with Soap For the Best by Soap & Glor y including The Righteous Butter, Hand Food and Scrub of Your Life. It will pep up dry winter skin instantly; $20; shoppersdrugmart.ca
4. FROSTED OVER
Picture a warm bath, candles lighting and holiday carols on your iPod. Just scoop a spoon or two of The Body Shop Frosted Cranberr y Bath Jelly into running water and soak with the dreamy cloud of sweet scented bubbles, $12; thebodyshop.ca
5. THE COLOUR OF PASSION
CSL ! 26 | WINTER 2014/15 | citystyleandliving.com
MAC Mystery intense black with green pearl Kohl pencil, $21; www.maccosmetics.com
Inspired by the crisp air and soft light of winter, Limited Edition Burberry Winter Glow Collection Lipmist in Oxblood No.214, is a must to add a touch of glam and pop of rich colour to your pout during the snowy season, $40; us.burberry.com/beauty
COURTESY THE BODY SHOP, DR. PERRICONE, FREDERIC FEKKAI; BURBERRY; SOAP AND GLORY
3. SMOOTHE IT OUT
The holiday season is a great opportunity to amp up the eye make up. With the many parties and events which, invariably, require some level of formality there is a real emphasis on formal clothes and, in turn, formal make up. by DANIEL THOMpSON
DOLCE AND GABBANA
Create highlight all around the eye. The idea is to create a halo effect both across the lid and underneath the eye. Using a great highlighter, rather than a concealer, will create the light without the “made up look.” Generously apply the highlighter to “blank” out the skin.
Use a neutral eye shadow base with shimmer and apply to the entire eyelid – lash to brow. This creates a reflective underlay that will shine in soft light without being overly sparkly. COURTESY SHU UEMURA; DANIEL THOMPSON; URBAN DECAY; GUERLAIN; LISE WATIER; YVES ST. LAURENT; SMASHBOX; MERCEDES BENSZ FASHION WEEK
5 Easy Steps
Eye make up is one of the most easy ways to add ﬂair and drama to your style. Here is my step-by-step method to creating a dramatic holiday look with your eye make up.
Contour the outer corner with a deep, rich matte eyeshadow. I prefer to match this to the colour of the evening dress. Use black for black cocktail dresses and navy for navy cocktail dresses. If you are wearing a formal gown in a colour choose a complimentary shade of eye shadow – for example a red dress with brown eye shadow works very well. Gently soften the matte eye shadow to create “smoke."
Met allic shim me r ove rlay. The eye make up can be amped up with shimmer particles and this can be done in a number of ways – use
DAN’S FAVOURITES Shu Uemura Fantasy Lashes
Daniel Thompson Beauty Eyeshadow Palette Rendez-Vous
Daniel Thompson Beauty Celestial Shadow #4
metallic eyeliner at the base of the lash or press shimmer powder across the entire eye make up (without smudging the existing work), or, my personal favourite – in the negative space between the latte shadow and the underlay gently blend in metallic shimmer eyeshadow that matches the jewellery you are wearing with your dress – gold with gold, silver with silver and white with platinum. If you are wearing diamonds avoid using a gold eyeshadow and if you are wearing coloured stones match the eyeshade to your favourite stone setting.
Eyelashes. This is the time to invest in eyelashes. Of course there are the good old fashioned glue type but these are not my favourite to use. I prefer using single inserts and intensifying only as needed, rather than an entire strip of lashes. Another great choice is lash extensions – these give all the benefit of false lashes without any of the work: simply have them applied once and they will stay on for weeks. You have to have this done by an aesthetician. Last but not least is fashion lashes – these are actual accessories to your outfit and can really create flair. Look for butterfly wing patterns or tiara patterns or jewelled lashes – there is an endless choice.
Daniel Thompson Beauty Mineral Eyeshadow #CME12
Daniel Thompson Beauty Absolute Light
MORE OPTIONS Highlighters Department Store: Yves Saint Laurent Beaute Touche Eclat. Drugstore: Smashbox Photo Op. Metallic Shadow Department Store: Guerlain Fard Metal #01 Drugstore: Make Up Forever Glitters Sand. Underlay Shadow Department Store: Chanel Ombre Essentielle #45 Drugstore: Lise Watier Ombre Souffle Supreme Fairy Tale. Contour Shadow Department Store: Dior Fusion Mono Matte #91 Mass: Urban Decay Matte Eyeshadow Evidence Lashes Inserts: Eylure Short Inserts Extensions: Misencil Extensions.
THE CSL GREEN TICkER
Look for reclaimed or recycled gold jewellry.
/ During winter set up a clothing line indoors. / Alter clothing instead of buying new. ›› citystyleandliving.com | WINTER 2014/15 | 27
PRET-A-PORTER! NEW LOOkS FOR yOuR WARDRObE
HOLIDAY Saint Laurent
â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Tis the season of statement dressing whether you stay at home, travel to sunnier climes or celebrate with friends and family near a fire.
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COURTESY MERCEDES BENZ FASHION WEEK
PRET A PORTER | STYLIST
DAZZLE WITH METAILLICS brighten up a long dress with a stole or shrug. Dazzle with an ornate top and evening bag. To make a statement keep it monochromatic.
kEEp IT SIMpLE A casual skirt paired with a blouse in neutral tones and lighter fabrics (the house should be warm and cozy) works well with boots or black tights.
COURTESY MERCEDES BENZ FASHION WEEK
SHORT AND SWEET Cocktail dresses work best at night especially for ringing in the new year abroad. Leave out jewellry and accessorize with a clutch and make it all about the dress.
pONCHO Try a cable-knit cape or a poncho instead of a coat and keep it relaxed with a pair of black leggings. The metallic shift with bow steps it up a notch. citystyleandliving.com | WINTER 2014/15 | 29
The Top Winter Pieces CSL ’s NOW
Soia & Kyo
The key pieces you should buy now
KATE SPADE SATURDAY Coldspell coat, $290; saturday.com
SKIRTS AND DRESSES
ANTHROPOLOGIE Rubra Shawl Coat, $188; anthropologie.com
SOFIA Viena Skirt; soﬁaclothing.com
SCOTCH & SODA pintuck dress, $159; webstore-ca.scotch-soda.com
CLARKS Minx Judy in Taupe Leather, $220; ClarksCanada.com.
SHOEME pika Women's Classic Tall, $165; SHOEme.ca
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ANTHROPOLOGIE Overture Tulle Sheath by yoana basraschi, $298; anthropologie.com
STEVE MADDEN Mallia bootie, $129.95; stevemadden.com
COURTESY CLARKS CANADA; PIKA; STEVE MADDEN; SCOTCH AND SODA; KATE SPADE; BODEN; K&S MEDIA
BODEN USA Amelia bodenusa.com
4 PIECES THAT WILL MAKE YOUR HOLIDAY LOOK POP
Add pizzaz to your outﬁt
PRET A PORTER | STYLIST
Style Copycat EMMY ROSSUM
SPADE 1.Madison ave.KATE evening belles arietta ,
yves Saint Laurent baby Doll kiss & blush Lips & Cheeks in 01 Fuchsia Desinvolte. Smashbox photo Op Eye Shadow Trio Filter (Vanilla- matte warm ivory, Sable- matte soft brown, Sumatramatte deep brown).
Long thin earrings accentuate the neck and make it appear longer and slender like a ballerina. 14k Gold Diamond-cut Star beads Dangle Earrings With box Chain Stands, $163.33; overstock.com
COURTESY SOPHIA WEBSTER; KATE SPADE; GILES AND BROTHER; OVERSTOCK; CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN; IMAGENET; YVES ST. LAURENT
SOPHIA WEBSTER Evangeline, $714; sophiawebster.co.uk
GILES AND BROTHER pavé Railroad Spike Collar, $135; gilesandbrother.com
OVERSTOCK 4. Miadora Rose plated Silver Rose
quartz and Diamond Flower Earrings, $203.17; overstock.com
A bit of dazzle plus winter white pants equals head to toe polished glamour. Gold embellished details make this look easy to wear for an evening occasion.
Sweet charity handbag, $1395, us.christianlouboutin.com citystyleandliving.com | WINTER 2014/15 | 31
CITY STYLE AND LIVING
From upcountry to Charleston and kiawah Island, Modern South Carolina proves that hospitality is still king.
32 | WINTER 2014/15 | citystyleandliving.com
Currently starring as Dr. betty Rogers in AbC/City TV's hit crime drama series Motive, the actress talks to CSL about work, love and her new lifestyle collections
Tell us about your career path.
It has been like a walk through the English countryside. Lovely scenery, rolling meadows, sometimes misty, and some wildﬂower surprises. Seriously, I’ve been so lucky to just keep walking along. Not a lot of fan-fare, but always a nice, steady pace. Despite my tongue-in-cheek take, this answer really does tell you what it has been like.
What are some of your favourite projects that you have worked on? In movies it’s a tie: Dragon the bruce Lee Story because I will
never forget the experience of making it. It was good to my soul that needed healing at that time. The Far East locations were both magniﬁcent and spiritual, and the whole cast and crew enjoyed every moment together. Dumb and Dumber was just a blast. I laughed so much. We all rented houseboats on Lake powell for the two summer holiday long weekends during ﬁlming. I was working with the man I loved. In tv, picket Fences was just about perfect. I loved my part, the scripts were amazing. The show even won awards. The cast and crew became a family. It was hard to let that experience go. I realize that the common denominator in all my faves were the amazing people I worked with. Motive is pretty great that way too.
Tell us about your charitable endeavors. I
COURTESY SOPHIA WEBSTER; ARMANI EXCHANGE; CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN; IMAGENET; YVES ST. LAURENT
have been so fortunate to have had some of the experiences I’ve had. It is not an option to not give back, or pay it forward. My family started a 4 year scholarship called The A Fund, in memory of my brother. It is for a student studying Art or Architecture (his favourite things) at Hobart and William Smith Colleges in Geneva, New york. It is where we grew up, and my father teaches there. Teaming up with Le Chateau for Lauren’s Closet, I became involved with Dress for Success. Everyone has to have the opportunity to present him or herself the way they want. It is just a helping hand, and we have all needed that. I’ve been involved with many cancer charities, the sad thing is every one of us has at least one reason in their lives why. It has touched too many, and it just has to stop.
You've filmed all over the United States, what has been your favourite location?
All the places have been great, and each unique. Oﬀ the top of my head: L.A. – it is a THE CSL GREEN TICkER
ﬁlm town, and they just know how to get it done; Charleston – I took amazing walks; Nashville – memories of becoming a working Mom; Aspen – for its beauty.
Favourite city to travel to, why? London.
It’s English, and I know it well.
What is your favourite dish and at which restaurant (worldwide)? Today? A lemon
sugar crepe on the street in Vancouver.
Favourite hotel in the world? Again, impos-
sible choice. I have been to so many, and so many have been beyond. Venice, Lake Cuomo, Dubai, Cape Town, Hong kong, Maui. Last week I was at the Ritz Carlton in Montreal. That was very nice, and it has all the bells and whistles, but the belhurst Castle in Geneva, my hometown, is pretty unique.
Most memorable travel moment.
Holly and her sons in Vancouver.
Landing on top of the burj Al Arab hotel in Dubai. Same spot that Tiger took that swing!
When I am not working I am...
Hanging with my boys or sitting in a friend’s yard.
Burj Al Arab in Dubai
3 of the most played songs on my iPod are... All time? Nirvana’s Nevermind album. Last week? bailando and Don’t.
LAUREN’S CLOSET is a sophisticated collection encompassing pieces that work with Holly’s busy, jet-set lifestyle. From chic daywear, to trendy casual wear, and evening wear there are looks to keep looking stylish no matter the time or the event. lechateau.com
Always in my travel bag. My pillow, my clock,
I can't live without... Some sunny days. CSL
“Learn how to be alone.”
LAUREN HOLLY COLLECTION features Christmas stockings, tree skirts, decorative pillows covers, coordinated table runners, and holiday napkins. The ultimate compliment to any Christmas Holiday Celebration. LaurenHollyCollection.com
Select hotels that are close to public transportation or within walking distance of the sites you’re interested in visiting.
citystyleandliving.com | WINTER 2014/15 | 33
The author of Lenin Lives Next Door: Marriage, Martinis, and Mayhem in Moscow shares her take on the capital city which oﬀers a wealth of traditional experiences. Take your time to explore the city, there are surprises at every turn.
Top 10 Travel Musts INSIDER
by JENNIFER EREMEEVA
1 ATTEND A SERVICE IN A RUSSIAN ORTHODOX CHURCH Peer into the elusive Russian soul by joining a service at an active Russian Or thodox Church. Women should refrain from wearing shorts and should cover their heads with a light scarf or hat. Most churches hold daily evening services around 6:00 pm and there is no need to join for the entire service, during which the faithful stand and move around the church at will. 2 VISIT RED SQUARE AT NIGHT Nothing captures the grandeur and magnificence of Russia’s capital better than a visit to its major public square at night to see St. Basil’s Cathedral and GUM Department Store flooded with light.
3 TAKE IN A CULTURAL PERFORMANCE Moscow and St. Petersburg are performing arts Meccas! On any given night, you can enjoy ballet, opera, and world-famous classical music. Contact your hotel or travel representatives for details, or visit these sites: The Bolshoi Theater (bolshoi.ru/en); The Mariinsky Theater (mariinsky.ru/en); The Moscow Conservator y (mosconsv.ru/en); The Petersburg Philharmonic (philharmonia.spb.ru/en).
1 FOuR SEASONS HOTEL
MOSCOW Newly opened, the 180 room and suite hotel is reminscent of the legendary Hotel Moskva with 5 dining venues. fourseasons.com/moscow
2 THE RITZ-CARLTON
MOSCOW Near Red Square, the property includes a rooftop lounge, spa and and personal butler service. ritzcarlton.com
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5 GO ICE SKATING IN WINTER Moscow boasts several skating venues, the most iconic of which is in Red Square. Quieter and a more genuine experience can be found in elegant Patriarchy Ponds near Mayakovskaya Metro station. Skate rental available at both venues.
6 TAKE A SAUNA! The banya (sauna) holds a special place in Russian culture and everyday life. This is a great way to see Russians in their natural state, while you relax in the heated steam of the historic Sanduniy Baths (sanduny.ru). Don’t be surprised if someone offers to beat you with a bunch of eucalyptus branches! Reservations recommended.
COURTESY RITZ CARLTON; FOUR SEASONS
WHERE TO STAy
4 TAKE A SUMMER BOAT RIDE ON THE MOSKVA RIVER See Moscow from a completely different angle as you sail up and down its primary waterway. Enjoy iconic views of St. Basil’s, the Kremlin, Moscow University, and the Church of Christ the Savoir. Pick up the boats near Kievskaya Metro Station. In St. Petersburg, see the city in a whole new way from the vantage point of a small canal cruise boat. Piers are located throughout the city’s center.
For a guide to Moscow’s restaurants visit jennifereremeeva.com/mos cow-dining-guidedownload
FACTS FOR FOODIES
There has never been a better time to explore the culinary side of life in the world’s largest country. The restaurant scene in Moscow and St. Petersburg is an exciting world where young chefs are resurrecting traditional Russian recipes, fusing them with innovative ingredients and cooking methods. The result is original and very tasty!
7 RIDE THE CELEBRATED MOSCOW METRO! No visit to Russia’s capital is complete without a trip on the city’s sprawling public transportation system, the Moscow Metro (engl.mosmetro.ru), which dates back to the early years of the new Soviet State, is seen as one of its early tangible success stories. Churches and palaces were stripped of marble and gold leaf to decorate what Stalin called “the people’s palace.” Of particular interest are Kropotkinskaya, Biblioteka imeni Lenina, Teatralnaya, Ploshad Revolyutsii and the award-winning Mayakovskaya.
BORSCHT is a traditional Russian soup made from beets, carrots, potatoes, and cabbage. It can include meat or be vegetarian and in Russia is almost always served hot and garnished with sour cream.
8 GET ON YOUR WALKING SHOES AND VISIT THE HERMITAGE MUSEUM. The Hermitage (hermitagemuseum.org) is the world’s largest museum, housing great works of art from all eras, and a particularly fine collection of Old Masters and Impressionists. Plan on at least half a day to enjoy the galleries as well as the magnificent interiors of the Winter Palace, which forms part of the museum.
PELEMENI are Russian ravioli! Possibly the world’s first flash frozen food, nomadic tribes in Siberia have been making pelemeni and freezing them in the permafrost for centuries. They are made with pork and beef and served either in broth or topped with sour cream.
9 SEE HOW THE OTHER HALF LIVES – THE SUMMER RESIDENCES OF THE TSARS Take a trip outside St. Petersburg to visit the opulent residences at Tsarskoye Selo, home to the Catherine Palace and the Alexander Palace, the home of the last Tsar and Tsarina. Take a hydrofoil in the summer from the center of St. Petersburg to visit Russia’s Versailles: stately Peterhof, with its world-renowned fountains.
COURTESY RITZ CARLTON; FOUR SEASONS
10 RUB SHOULDERS WITH RUSSIA’S POWER BROKERS – VISIT THE MOSCOW KREMLIN! Devote at least one half day to exploring the majestic Moscow Kremlin (kreml.ru/en), the powerful heart of Russia’s capital and seat of its government. Inside the Kremlin Armory Museum are housed priceless historical treasures of Russia’s past, including the crown of thrones of the Russian tsars, ambassadorial silver, and Faberge eggs. Visit the Diamond Fund for the dazzling display of precious jewels from Russia’s imperial past. Cathedral Square is home to the magnificent fifteenth century Assumption Cathedral, where all Russian Tsars were crowned, and Archangel Michael Cathedral, the necropolis of Russian Tsars until Peter the Great. Buy tickets and photo permission for all the Kremlin Museums at the Kutafya (Painted Lady) Tower in the Alexander Gardens. CSL
SCHI is Russian cabbage soup, often enhanced with tomatoes, potatoes, and other spices. It’s particularly satisfying in the winter after a long day of sightseeing! KVASS is a mildly-alcoholic fizzy drink made from fermented black bread and spiced with ginger and honey. CAVIAR are the delectable eggs of a sturgeon (black) or salmon (red). Russians pair salty caviar with blini, or Russian pancakes and the ubiquitous sour cream. CHEBURIKI are spicy meat pies from southern Russian. It’s best to order them in a restaurant and not from a food truck. Beef Stroganoff is a Russian dish, which was invented by a French chef in the eighteenth century. Beef and mushrooms are paired in a hearty sour-cream, tomato and mustard sauce. REVEALING RUSSIA Opposite: Red Square; a
performance at the Mariinsky Theatre. This page: A look at the Moscow metro; the beautiful gold roof of a Russian Orthodox Church; traditional matryoshka dolls.
SALMON COULIBAC is a fish pie taken to its most extreme. Gently poached salmon is combined with mushrooms and rice in layers, encased in a light pastry.
citystyleandliving.com | WINTER 2014/15 | 35
/ MIAMI & THE FLORIDA KEYS ROAD TRIP
Starved of the sun after a long winter, three friends join up for a girlfriends’ getaway to Miami driving along the famed U.S. Highway 1 to the Florida Keys. It’s a trip full of rest, relaxation and, of course, fun. By Shivana Maharaj Photography K&S Media
In Key West, every house tells a story. Opposite Page: A colourful lifeguard station on South Beach.
citystyleandliving.com | WINTER 2014/15 | 37
DAY 1 AGENDA: MIAMI
HOT HOT HEAT South Beach offers a sort of strange 21st century deception – skyscrapers emerging from the ocean, crimson at sunrise and luminous at sunset as if these buildings too were part of nature’s cycles. It’s not just beautiful buildings though, there are plenty of beautiful people. Though the heat index is soaring, the beaches are packed with hordes of bronzed visitors, sunbathing or wading in the warm water. While airplanes brandishing messages of love and politics fly overhead, we
HOT HOTEL THE RITZ-CARLTON SOUTH BEACH
DID YOU KNOW ?
e hotel runs tours of its private multi-million dollar in-house art collection during Art Basel.
38 | WINTER 2014/15 | citystyleandliving.com
Epitomizing South Beach cool, the 375 room Ritz-Carlton South Beach features a wealth of original artwork throughout the hotel (2 million dollars worth of art curated from Wynwood Art District’s Diana Lowenstein Gallery no less). Though fully renovated in 2013, the Ritz Carlton South Beach retains a strong art deco influence, a nod to the original 1953, Morris Lapidus-designed landmark DiLido hotel –from the curved wooden floor-to-ceiling wall, punctuated with repeating backlit silver balls in the lobby (dubbed the wall of lights), to the original DiLido sign tucked away
A view from the Venetian Causeway.
decide to chase the iconic lifeguard stations that litter the beach. Fusing function and form and creating a unique architectural style in the process, these 29 stations date from the 1990s after the devastation of Hurricane Andrew. Staggered by street number along the beach, we search for our favourites – from a purple and yellow beauty on 12th street to the patriotic red white and blue of 13th street.
Clockwise from top: The pool at The Ritz-Carlton South Beach; a view of South Beach from the 10th floor Club Lounge; the exterior of the hotel.
on the building’s exterior. The hotel’s calling card is its location – Lincoln road on one side and South Beach on the other. In fact, DiLido Beach Club restaurant is one of the only beachfront restaurants in the area. When we arrive, tropical mango-guava, the signature scent of the Ritz Carlton South Beach, is wafting through the air. We open the doors of our Lanai Pool view room, and through the warm breeze we can hear the ocean pounding onto the shoreline that soon lulls us to sleep. The following morning, starved from travelling, my girlfriends and I order the buffet breakfast – a lavish spread of hot and cold dishes, fruit, cheese and a hot egg station. Later that day we walk into the 16,000-square-foot Ritz-Carlton Spa for a Rhythm Massage – a unique combination of Latin music with a gentle massage that leaves us invigorated and hungry, so we have a quick bite of shrimp Brava with caramelized watermelon and cilantro at Bistro One LR. The enduring image of the hotel though is its white art deco exterior emblazoned against palm trees and impossibly blue skies.
COURTESY RITZ CARLTON (1)
TOUCHING DOWN Lincoln Road at night is a menagerie of colourful umbrellas, sidewalk cafes full of patrons and the pulsating neon lights of art deco buildings that illuminate historic hotels. There’s even a 1950s hot pink Cadillac parked outside of one former hotel. The whole scene positively screams Miami cool. Along with two friends, we’ve come to celebrate a birthday, soak up the sun, and drive the legendary Overseas Highway (Highway 1) from Miami to Key West. Where better to start than a city known to rev up the heat?
DAY 2 AGENDA: MIAMI FEELING FRUITY The next morning we stop at The Viceroy Miami for a quick and healthy breakfast including an egg white omelette with spinach cheese, tomatoes and turkey bacon with hash and whole wheat toast and a shot of banana smoothie. Miami’s subtropical climate makes it ideal for growing exotic plants. Fruit and Spice Park, a 37 acre farm in Homestead, 45 minutes from Miami grows numerous varieties of mangoes, herbs, flowers and edible fruits and plants. A narrow road lined with tall palm trees leads us to the entrance of the park. Inside, an array of tropical fruit is on the front desk ready for us to sample – succulent sweet longan, bright orange mangoes, lucuma and egg fruit. CASTLES IN THE SKY It’s easy to assume that we’ve driven into a European villa at Viz-
LURE FISHBAR SOUTH BEACH
caya Museum and Gardens. From the wrought iron gates to a sunken esplanade and Doric columns it looks like the Venetian dreamscape of its original owner the industrial executive millionaire James Deering. Built between 1914 and 1922, Vizcaya was his winter home. The house, though Baroque in appearance, is equipped with all of the most modern amenities of the time including a water filtration system, heating and elevators. Remarkably grand in scale and decoration in every sense (we spot numerous hidden entrances), we spend a delightful morning touring the formal garden where clever repetition, grey stone sculptures sitting amongst varying shades of green, flowing water fountains, live oaks and Australian pines pruned with precision make it a sensory experience.
From top: One of the Alhambra arches in Coral Gables; a neighbourhood in Coconut Grove.
3 RESTAURANTS TO CHECK OUT
Tartan tufted banquettes, framed nautical flags, old school bearded barmen. Lure Fishbar has all the signs of mid-century modern chic with a hipster twist. The seafood restaurant offers fresh fish selections from around the world, a complete raw bar with a rotating oyster selection, and world-class sushi. Executive Chef John Iatrellis has a deft hand preparing deviled eggs topped with caviar, Asian barbecue wings, fried Blue Pint oysters with a creamy caper tartar sauce and lobster tempura rolls. “At the end of a big meal, this is what I like to serve,” Iatrellis says holding a simple looking guava and coconut sorbet with fresh fruit. After a few bites it’s clear that not only is the dessert spectacular but Iatrellis is a thoughtful, intuitive chef.
Meat Market, a self described “glamorous steakhouse,” exists under the careful watch of Chef Sean Brasel. With an ultra sleek tan and dark wood interior, crowded bar with waiters and waitresses that look like they’ve stepped off of a catwalk, and showstopper wine cave, Meat Market lives up to its moniker in decor alone. We start with hoisin lacquered Asian barbeque lamb ribs, served with a papaya slaw, the rich sweet and sour sticky sauce is soaked up effortlessly by the juicy ribs. This is followed by twin butter poached lobster tails, lobster mashed potatoes, and a trio of fiery sauces including our favourite: aji panca chimichurri. We finish with a key lime cheesecake topped with candied lime zest and watermelon sorbet.
THE RESTAURANT, THE SETAI MIAMI BEACH
The scene is decidedly opulent – an enormous bowl of red roses sits in a black vase near grey stone walls and an oriental style wooden screen. The menu from Executive Chef Mathias Gervais is Mediterranean – a mix of southern French, Italian, Spanish and North African. Gervais’ style is epitomized by a rich and creamy tuna tartare bursting with red tobiko and capers, followed by grilled octopus with piperade sauce. Next, we tuck into an earthy lamb tajine served with Zaalouk eggplant and Moroccan harissa. Our giant grilled prawns provide a sweet and charreddepth. We end with The Vacherin – vanilla ice cream with berry sorbet, whipped cream meringue and raspberry coulis.
citystyleandliving.com | WINTER 2014/15 | 39
DAY 3 AGENDA: MIAMI
At Vizcaya Museum and Gardens.
COCONUT WOMEN Gawking at the pervasive art deco style in South Beach is one thing, but there are also gems in Miami’s residential areas. In Coconut Grove, we circle the narrow streets lined with arched oak and banyan trees to find Plymouth Congregational Church, a stone structure built in 1917 with a fairytale like exterior, a mix of creeping green vines, palm trees and pink flowers in planters. Nearby Coral Gables, considered Miami’s first planned community, is a hotbed of Mediterranean Revival homes. We search for the Granada and Alhambra archways commissioned by George Merrick in the early 20th century. The real estate developer known as the planner of the City of Coral Gables wanted the architecture to resemble the Mediterranean and even provided the coral rock used in construction. The result is a Mediterranean style taken unabashedly to the tropics.
SEE THE SEA A local tips us off to the newly opened Pérez Art Museum Miami. “Even if you don't like art, you have to visit for the views of Biscayne Bay.” Modern artwork from international artists is set across 200,000 square feet of indoor and outdoor programmable space. Designed by Herzog & de Meuron, the stark modernity is contrasted by enormous hanging gardens, while the veranda delivers an eye popping view of azure water and gargantuan cruise ships.
HOT HOTEL THE MANDARIN ORIENTAL MIAMI
The curvilinear Mandarin Oriental Miami is like the white sail of a windswept ship forever facing toward spectacular views of natural and human creation. Located on the tip of Brickell Key, close to Coconut Grove, downtown, and the Wynward district, bellmen in red uniforms greet us at the door while inside, a distinctive Asian style pervades, including hundreds of orange-red orchids that are lined up in glass vases in the lobby. Our bay view room with a small balcony offers a great start to the early morning when the rising sun makes neighbouring high-
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rises glisten and, in the evening, their lights sparkle over Biscayne Bay. One day, we drop by the 15,000 square foot spa, featuring treatments derived from Chinese, Ayurvedic, European, Balinese and Thai cultures – we opt for the aromatherapy massage a nice relaxing way to spend the afternoon. Another day, we visit La Mar, the hotspot Peruvian restaurant led by renowned chef Gastón Acurio. Pisco sour cocktails are the precursor to the meal which includes Causa Cangrejo (whipped peruvian potatoes and ají), Paiche chorillana (an Amazonian fish) and chaufa (Peruvian fried rice). Peruvian food blends Asian, African, European and Indigenous Quecha influences and throughout our meal, we discover new ingredients (lucuma), or familiar ones with a local inflection (Peruvian wine, who knew?). As it is my girlfriend’s birthday, we can’t skip dessert, and we indulge in a sumptuous fortunato chocolate mousse with caramelized Andean grains, stunningly crisp sweet potato and pumpkin fritters drizzled with spiced honey, and deconstructed pie de limon. Sail away!
COURTESY MANDARIN ORIENTAL
Clockwise from bottom: A dish at La Mar restaurant; balcony view from the Mandarin Oriental Miami; oceanside view.
DAY 4 AGENDA: THE FLORIDA KEYS two lane highway with the Atlantic Ocean on one side and the Gulf of Mexico on the other.
GLASS BOTTOM ADVENTURE Soon we arrive at John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park in Key Largo, home to the only living coral barrier reef in the continental United States and the third largest coral barrier reef system in the world spanning 6 to 7 km wide and extending 270 km. None of us are certified scuba divers so we opt for the next best option – a glass bottom boat tour. The high speed catamaran begins in mangrove and then ventures into the shallow reef. The glass bottom is portioned into a graph like quadrant system which makes it easy to spot the fan, elkhorn, brain and star coral, yellow and black striped sergeant major, sharks, turtles, yellow snapper and parrot fish swimming around.
Located at Lower Matecumbe Key, Anne’s Beach oﬀers one of the best shallow warm swimming areas in the Keys with facilities.
THE ROAD LESS TRAVELLED Linked to the mainland by the U.S. 1 (overseas) Highway, the 120-mile-long (193-kilometer) Florida Keys island chain is a bucket list road trip. The stretch of road takes us from skyscrapers through farmland and swampland, until eventually the scenery gives way to a narrow
Clockwise from top: The shallow warm waters of Anne’s Beach; mile marker 0, the end of the U.S. route 1 near Fleming Street; hats and Conch Republic memorabilia for sale at a stall in Key West.
THAT’S WHERE WE WANT TO GO Back on the highway, we crank up the radio for the ride. As we near the larger keys (from the Spanish word cayo meaning islet), signs of habitation spring up in the form of fishing boat charters, motels, houses and gift shops selling psychedelic paraphernalia. Mostly though, the road is a shimmering show of perspective. At its most spectacular near Seven Mile Bridge all we can see are the roller coaster like undulations of
ADVENTURE DRIVING THROUGH SOUTH FLORIDA
The Buick Regal in Coconut Grove
What’s a road trip without the right car? In a town like Miami where luxury cars are everywhere, the 2015 Buick Regal LS felt like a peer amongst German and Italian models. It’s a sophisticated luxury sedan that oozes style to go along with its comfortable ease of handling and excellent high performance. We loved the extremely informative features like side mirror vehicle warning – excellent for blind spots during a lane change (especially on busy freeways), and the reverse cam to keep us informed of impending objects. Inside, the contoured interior felt spacious, (able to fit luggage and carry-on bags), and, driving with the sporty sunroof open, enhanced the Florida sunshine. The keyless entry was especially handy when holding multiple shopping bags. Using the GPS system, we did make a few wrong turns (there seemed to be a delay in voice directions and at times the word ‘bear’ meant both turn and veer which was difficult to differentiate), though we did we noticed the excellent gas consumption on the highly visual dashboard. buick.com citystyleandliving.com | WINTER 2014/15 | 41
Bicycles are the way to get around on Key West. Right: A calm and relaxing day at Little Palm Island.
DAY 4 AGENDA: THE FLORIDA KEYS the highway. Meters away the sometimes skeletal remnants of former bridges and roads – incarnations of the railroad system constructed by Henry Flagler – dangle from the ocean.
DEER OH DEER On Big Pine Key we stop to catch a glimpse of the native Key deer. Our search is little more than my direction challenged girlfriends and I driving around aimlessly along back roads. Our search for the ranger
station (and some clue as to where the deer are hiding) is fruitless and we eventually get lost and decide to turn around. We end up in a residential area and just as we are about to get back on to the highway, we spot a family of key deer, happily munching on some food in the bushes.
3 GREAT RESTAURANTS IN THE KEYS
Almost halfway between Key Largo and Key West sits Islamorada, and we stop at mile marker 81.6, at the Morada Bay Beach Café & Bar for a quick lunch. Set up to evoke the feel of a surfer’s and fishermen’s hangout, the walls are lined with longboards, sails and surf movie posters. The laid back café is busy with French families sitting on colourful wooden deck chairs outside. We order a selection of cold beer and quick bites including yucca fries, conch fritters and watermelon salad with feta, red onion, garden basil and balsamic vinaigrette. Our waiter’s recommendation is the M.B. mussels with tomato, jalapeno and wine jus. “I’ve seen people take the bowl to their mouths and drink the sauce,” she quips. 42 | WINTER 2014/15 | citystyleandliving.com
PINCHERS CRAB SHACK
Walking into Pinchers is a lesson in eclectic art and serious seafood. The entire restaurant was decorated by Tony Phelan – the oil can light fixtures, hand perforated with local fish, and artwork on the walls (all with a cheeky seafood inspired theme). The Phelan family have owned and operated Pinchers (several locations through south Florida), for sixteen years and they also own their own fishing company – the result? All of the seafood here is ultra fresh. We order a feast of finger licking good seafood – creamy New England style clam chowder studded with lots of clams, crisp soft shell crab, steamed sweet clams and Blue Crab Clusters sautéed in garlic, butter and spices make our mouth water at every bite. Pinchers is as authentic as you can get.
PIER HOUSE RESORT, HARBOURVIEW CAFÉ
Overlooking the Gulf of Mexico and a private white sand beach, Harbourview Café at Pier House Resort is a laid back restaurant. It is quiet this evening, which give my girlfriends and I the opportunity to converse easily with one another. Opting for a light dinner, we order the pan seared scallops with napa cabbage slaw, ponzu sauce served on top of crispy wontons – a thrill of textures – crisp, crunchy, and soft. For our main course, we order the spiny lobster tail with blue crab stuffing served with thermidor sauce, garlic mashed potatoes and vegetables - it’s a large serving that happily satiates our appetite.
COURTESY LONELY PLANET; K&S MEDIA (3); OTG EXPERIENCE
MOORINGS BEACH CAFE
HOT HOTEL SANTA MARIA SUITES, KEY WEST
COURTESY THE MERRION HOTEL; NORDSTROM; ISTANBUL CONVENTION AND VISITORS BUREAU; RELAIS ST. GERMAIN; HBC
Biking or walking is the easiest way to get around in Key West as roads are narrow plus this is the best way to see the plethora of historic homes.
DAY 5 & 6 AGENDA: THE FLORIDA KEYS
The modern kitchen inside Santa Maria Suites; The garden enclosed pool. Clockwise from top: Lush gardens outside of a local coffee shop in Key West; old time signs on Key West; Audubon House Museum & Tropical Gardens.
SOUTHERNMOST CITY Mile marker 0 is firmly ensconced near a traffic light on Whitehead Street in Key West. This is where highway 1 begins or ends, depending on your point of view. Our enthusiastic driver from Old Town Trolley Tours of Key West is keen to point it out. During the 13 stop drive we go as far as Roosevelt Boulevard next to the ocean, pulling in to the East Martello Fort and Museum where several green iguanas are sun bathing on the grass. In town, our driver sarcastically blurts out, “love those bicycles,” shaking his head at the lack of etiquette amongst tourist cyclists. Upon making a sharp turn to visit the Key West cemetery on Solares Hill, we see numerous family plots, amazing monuments and even some cheeky tombstones, “At least I know Where He’s Sleeping Tonight,” reads one. Key West has been described as everything from eclectic to kooky. One thing is certain, it has an independent streak. Called the Conch Republic by locals because of its secession threat and stalwart stand against the United States government in the 1980s, it has a slow pace perhaps influenced by its Caribbean neighbours (Cuba is not far away).
On the grown up side of Duval Street, the sophisticated and modern condo-style Santa Maria Suites with glass, white and brushed metal facade sets it apart in colourful, historic Key West. Greeted by a refreshing smoothie, we enter our two bedroom suite accessed from the veranda that overlooks the garden enclosed swimming pool where a few people are sun tanning on crisp white lounge chairs. Featuring a laundry room, full kitchen and spa-like bathroom we giggle with delight at the same thought – we could easily move in tomorrow. If our suite wasn’t decadent enough, the Forbes Hamilton managed property offers the sort of elite service including chocolate covered ice cream, daily happy hour, freshly baked and delivered morning muffins, chilled towels and popsicles by the pool that make us feel spoiled. citystyleandliving.com | WINTER 2014/15 | 43
KEYS TO KEY WEST We join the swarms on Duval Street, past Sloppy Joe's bar (where Ernest Hemingway was a regular) and, at sunset, watch the jugglers, acrobatic cats and stilt walkers in Mallory Square. One day, we pop into the Key West Aquarium greeted by a small touch tank filled with conch, starfish, urchins and giant hermit and horseshoe crab. Mere metres away nurse, sandbar, and bonnethead sharks and a few turtles swim in a larger enclosure. There are families with children glued to the tanks of jellyfish, alligators, and tropical fish until the announcement of the shark feeding sends them into frenetic excitement. Another day we stumble upon the Ernest Hemingway Home and Museum. The first hosts we encounter are the cats – dozens of six-toed felines roaming the property – descendants of the beloved cat owned by Hemingway. The guided tour inside the 19th century Spanish colonial style home reveals an intimate look at the writer’s life in Key West with photos, books and manuscripts throughout. We walk down Whitehead Street toward the pier where we come to the Audubon House and Tropical Gardens. Outside, the lush gardens are brimming with orchids, bromeliads, rare tropical palms and crotons. We follow the paved brick pathway and enter the house, built by C John Huling Geiger in the 1840s as a residence for his family. The restored home is a living museum of well kept rooms, immaculately polished wooden staircases and walls scattered with artwork including those of artist John James Audubon. The crowning glory is a small room dedicated to the painters ‘The birds of America’, including the beautiful white-crowned pigeon. Most days, we wander the streets marveling at the shotgun houses in Old Key West. The clapboard exteriors with their colourful shutters and cute gardens epitomize Key West style. Carefree but oozing charm – that’s how it is in the land of sunshine. CSL
Smathers beach on Key West.
HOT HOTEL SOUTHERNMOST ON THE BEACH, KEY WEST Steps away from a buoy proclaiming that it is 90 miles to Cuba, Southernmost on the Beach has a high energy vibe. A nautical theme is carried throughout the property with porthole mirrors above the beds, a private pier and balconies overlooking the ocean. The 124 room hotel constantly coaxes relaxation from colourful Adirondack chairs to hammocks swaying between palm trees to the beckoning pool. We stroll the private beach where Tennessee Williams swam each day. At Southernmost on the Beach Café Bar we enjoy a lobster and pasta dinner and conch fritters while tiki torches light the night sky. Another day we take an excellent 80 minute massage at Le Petit Spa at Southernmost. This is the place for a taste of easy island living. Clockwise: An ocean view room at Southernmost on the Beach; the beach at the resort with its iconic signage; colourful chairs on property; the butter yellow exterior of the resort facing the ocean. 44 | WINTER 2014/15 | citystyleandliving.com
HOT HOTEL LITTLE PALM ISLAND, LITTLE TORCH KEY My girlfriends and I agree, if we were shipwrecked on an island, Little Palm Island Resort & Spa would be our choice. A 15 minute ride on the beautiful Truman motorboat takes us to Little Torch Key a true escape. Each suite is set up like an elevated tree house, decked out with the surname of each guest in wooden block letters at the front entrance (a castaway’s lavish fantasy). Our newly renovated 550 square foot oceanfront thatched roof Island Elegance Suite features a separate living area, elegant four poster bed and boudoir tub with mother of pearl tile. The outdoor bamboo shower is a touch of fun. Eventually we cannot help but visit SpaTerre, where we indulge in a relaxing deep tissue massage with masseuses Thekla and Ms. Fortuna. The intoxicating aroma of mango and coconut from the resort’s own line add to the private island vibe. Little Palm Island is serene and a labyrinth-like path system takes us from a lush tropical garden with zen statues to various wooden docks. Even the wildlife is clamouring to get here – we spot key deer who have managed to swim to the island, munching on leaves. For dinner, one evening we meet sous chef Kalen Fortuna who recommends the best dishes and speaks with reverence of Executive Chef Rolando Cruz Taura. We enjoy a quiet evening dining on a bouillabaisse style stew and grilled lobster. Marooned on this island, we wouldn’t need to bring a thing.
Clockwise from Top: A dock at Little Palm Island; Bouillabaisse at The Dining Room; Wooden deck chairs overlooking the water; a lifesave near the pool at Little Palm Island.
ADVENTURE RIDE HIGH WITH KEY WEST BIPLANES We are waiting for the rain to subside inside the hangar of Key West Biplanes at Key West International Airport, gazing at the collection of planes including the Cabanas Aerobatics Pitts S2-C, a couple of cars, posters from air shows across the U.S., a cute red toy plane “Air Knight” and a mammoth flag presiding over the whole scene. Operated by Susan Cabanas since 1987, the company takes passengers on vintage aircraft rides. Clad in Amelia Earhart style aviator goggles, cap and ear-
Susan Cabana stands proudly in front of one of Key West Biplanes vintage beauties; an aerial view of Key West from a vintage biplane.
Tours ranging from 15 minutes to 35 minutes are available. e longer tours circle the coral reef so look out for sharks, rays, and dolphins.
phones, we use a step ladder to board the two passenger 1942 Waco bi-plane once used for cargo. We’re told not to touch the pedals and then we hear the control tower and within seconds Key West is beneath us. It’s so easy to be weightless and airborne and our 15 minute ride passes by quickly. Les, our pilot, points out Duval Street and Mallory square. The greater part of the view though is sea. Near the shoreline, green keys dot the sea, and pelicans fly below, while the engine drones and the propellers turn. Within minutes, the sight from the open cockpit is nothing but differing shades of blue sometimes dark with coral. It is then another stunning world as Les guides the plane to make a few dips and turns.
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Clockwise: An oceanfront cottage; a white heron near the docks; Latitudes restaurant at Sunset Key; succulent king crab from Latitudes; a pool view; relaxing on the patio at Sunset Key Guest Cottages.
HOT HOTEL SUNSET KEY GUEST COTTAGES A WESTIN RESORT, KEY WEST
It’s been said that no one is an island, but, hotels, are an altogether different matter. Sunset Key Guest Cottages A Westin Resort is the sort of place to disconnect from the rest of the world. Spread over 27 acres, the resort features two, three and four bedroom cottages with ocean or garden views designed to mimic traditional Key West architecture. A small covered motor boat takes us from mainland at the Westin Key West to the shores of Sunset Key where we are immediately greeted by our personal concierge. Our three bedroom white cottage, 'leeward' is accented with varying green, yellow and blue trim contrasting the lush palms and Frangipani trees. Mere minutes after settling in, the phone rings. "Is there a specific time that I can book your dinner for this evening?" asks our concierge. It is this sort of careful attention to service and detail that we will come to expect during our stay. My friends and I settle in as if the cottage were our own private home – separate bedrooms and bathrooms, a spacious balcony and televisions in nearly every room provide privacy and give us enough space to have personal time. While every morning we convene in the upstairs 46 | WINTER 2014/15 | citystyleandliving.com
kitchen and dining area to enjoy the fresh pastries, yogurt, fruit and orange juice that are delivered to our front porch. It’s a sort of warm hug that gets us geared up for our day. Afternoons are spent relaxing indoors sipping chilled wine and chatting in the living room. Most days, the large pool, adjacent to our cottage is busy with guests wading in the water or laying on deck chairs. Other days we join young men playing volleyball on a spit of sand while or swim on the private beach. One day, accompanied by one of my girlfriends, we book an appointment at The Spa at Sunset Key for an outstanding custom therapeutic massage. Though the spa is small, it maintains a high standard of amenities and services. We spend a few hours afterward luxuriating in its coziness. Sunset Key gets its name from the unbelievable views of the fading sun. Latitudes, the island’s hallmark restaurant, is positioned to maximize the views of this daily ritual. This is the place to dine and watch the sunset. Every evening the restaurant is packed with couples, and large parties toting cameras to capture the moment when a sepia hued ocean framed by palm trees swallows the sun. Over the course of
several evenings we try everything from key lime pie to Alaskan king crab in a Thai broth. Another day for dinner, we stop at sister property The Westin adjoining Mallory Square for a light supper of shrimp bisque, sherry scented with garlic infused croutons and crawfish key lobster with roasted red potatoes, drawn butter, and grilled asparagus. It also happens give us another perspective on Key West’s famed sunset. From our table overlooking the ocean, we see crowds forming alongside the ocean walk. A French man coaxes cats to run through hoops has garnered a crowd keen on his slapstick humour, further down a vendor sells conch fritters, others sell handmade jewellry and crafts while on the water, a red sail ship is slowly coming into harbour. This is the beauty of Sunset Key Guest Cottages –choosing to be in the midst of the hullaballoo of Key West or in the silence of the private island. On our last night, we take a stroll along the island, stopping at a small jetty where, across the water, the lights and music from a Key West nightclub are visible and we have our very own dance off. It’s as if we have the entire world to ourselves. At least, right now it seems like we have the whole island to ourselves.
RESOURCE GUIDE: MIAMI AND THE FLORIDA KEYS WHEN TO GO
Year-round sunshine makes South Florida the go to destination for Canadians. Summer temperatures can range between 20- 30°C while winter temperatures are more moderate (low 20°C ).
Air Daily flights are available from most major Canadian cities to Miami International Airport.
As one of the world’s most popular vacation spots, Miami offers plenty to do see and eat throughout the year and is divided into distinct districts such as South Beach, downtown, Little Havana, Miami Beach and the historic hideaways of Coral Gables and Coconut Grove. miamiandbeaches.com
Collins Avenue, Washington Avenue, Lincoln Road and Oc ean Drive Walk along these famed streets to gawk at the Art deco architecture, neon signs and colourful edifices, dine at Miami’s best restaurants, shop at the numerous multi level stores or hit the clubs until morning light.
South Beach Nicknamed SoBe by residents, the ultra chic beach was the first area of Miami Beach to be developed. Beaches are usually packed with tourists and residents soaking in the rays. Coconut Grove and Coral Gables These historic and picturesque neighbourhoods of Miami are distinguished by the Mediterranean style and lush vegetation including banyan, oak archways, palms and tropical flowers.
Little Havana Characterized by robust street life, restaurants, music and other cultural activities, this area of Miami (including famous Calle Ocho) is home to many Latin-American and Cuban residents. Venetian Causeway Crossing Biscayne Bay between Miami on the mainland and Miami Beach, the causeway offers stunning views of the city, especially at sunset.
Fruit and spice park 37-acre public facility, owned and operated by the Miami-Dade County Park and Recreation. The Park showcases 150 varieties of mango, 75 varieties of bananas, 70 bamboo varieties, and numerous other exotic edibles. 24801 S.W. 187th Avenue Homestead, FL; $8.00 per adult, $2.00 per child 6- 11, and children under 6 are free; fruitandspicepark.org Pérez Art Museum Miami Miami’s newest modern art museum featuring exhibitions from artists from around the world. Admission $16, Adult, $12, Youth; pamm.org
Vizcaya Museum and Gardens Created as James Deering’s winter home in the early 1900’s, today it is a National Historic Landmark and accredited museum with lavish gardens that harkens to Europe. Admission $18, Adult, $6, Children 6-12; vizcaya.org
Th e Ritz Carlton South Beach Luxury hotel with 375 rooms and suites, steps from Ocean Drive and Lincoln Road. The 16,000 square foot Ritz Carlton spa offers unique treatments including the signature rhythm massage. Visit The DiLido Beach Club, the only oceanfront restaurant and lounge in South
Beach. 1 Lincoln Road, Miami Beach, Florida 33139 U.S.A; ritzcarlton.com/en/Properties/SouthBeach/Default.htm Mandarin Oriental Miami Offering a taste of Asian luxury at Brickell Key, the 295 spacious room, 31 suite hotel offers balcony views of the Miami skyline and Biscayne Bay. Indulge in a spa treatment at the 15,000 square foot spa, and eat at one of four dining options including award winning La Mar serving bright and flavoursome Peruvian cuisine. 500 Brickell Key Drive, Miami, FL; mandarinoriental.com/miami
Lure Fish bar Executive Chef Iatrellis and his team create ultra fresh seafood dishes, and offer a complete raw bar with a rotating oyster selection, and a world-class sushi program. 1601 Collins Ave, Miami Beach, FL; lurefishbar.com Meat Market Miami A more glamorous take on the traditional steakhouse, Executive chef Sean Brasel offers fine cuts of meat, fresh seafood and amazing produce with a focus on seasonal cooking. 915 Lincoln Rd. Miami Beach, FL;meatmarket.net/enter.html
The Restaurant at Th e Setai Executive Chef Mathias Gervais offers a Mediterranean (Spain, Italy, the South of France and Provence) menu. 2001 Collins Ave Miami Beach, FL; thesetaihotel.com/culinary-artistry/culinary-experiences.jsp
THE FLORIDA KEYS AND KEY WEST
Located closer to Cuba than to Miami, The Florida keys comprise five major islets (Key Largo, Islamorada, Marathon, Big Pine Key and Key West) and have been home to legends such as Ernest Hemingway, Tennessee Williams, Elizabeth Bishop, Robert Frost and Jimmy Buffett. fla-keys.com
Anne’s Beach Located at Lower Matecumbe Key, it offers one of the best shallow warm swimming areas in the Keys with covered picnic tables, boardwalk and bathroom facilities.
National Key Deer Refuge on Big Pine Key Explore the refuge, a large expanse of mostly undeveloped pinelands where you may be lucky enough to catch a glimpse of the diminutive (and docile) Key deer that inhabit the island.
Bahia Honda State Park Located west of Marathon, close to the west end of the Seven Mile Bridge. Take pictures at the beautiful old Bahia Honda Bridge.
Southernmost Point Visit the concrete buoy marking the Southernmost Point in the continental United States, ‘only 90 miles from Cuba’. Avoid the crowds and go early.
John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park Glass Bottom Boat Tour Take a glassbottom boat tour on the Spirit of Pennekamp 65-foot catamaran to the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary. Glass bottom Boat Tours, $24 per adult 2½ Hour Tour; 102601 Overseas Hwy, Key Largo, FL, (305) 451-6300; pennekamppark.com
The Ernest Hemingway Home and Museum Visit the home of the legendary author for a guided tour, and plenty of artifacts from Hemingways’ time spent in Key West. Admission: Adults, $13, children, $6. 907 Whitehead St, Key West, FL; hemingwayhome.com.
Audubon House and Tropical Gardens Though the artist John Audubon never lived in the Geiger Mansion, visit his famous birds of America gallery on the top floor and don’t miss the lush tropical gardens. Admission: Adults, E12, Children, $5. 205 Whitehead Street Key West, FL; audubonhouse.com.
Key West Aquarium Located in Key West’s famous Mallory Square, the popular attraction features alligators, jellyfish, sharks and a touch tank. Tours and animal feeding are also available. Admission: Adults, $15.04, children, $8.59. 1 Whitehead St.,Key West, FL; keywestaquarium.com
Old Town Trolley Tours of Key West Hop on and off this 13 stop tour, or stay aboard with engaging tour guide pointing out more than 100 sites of interest. Admission: Adults, $30.45, Children, Free. 1 Whitehead Street Key West, FL; trolleytours.com/keywest
The Beach Café at Morada Bay Located at mile market 81.6, the Mediterranean style bistro set on the beach offers casual dining amidst a palm-lined beach, walking paths through a thatched pagoda. 81600 Overseas Highway, Islamorada, FL; moradabay.com/the-beach-cafe/
Pinchers A family owned and operated business for over 16 years, the Phelan family also own the Island Crab Company ensuring ultra fresh seafood. Authentic seafood shack atmosphere with delicious food for the seafood lover. 712 Duval Street, Key West, FL; pinchersusa.com
Harbourview Cafe Located at Pier House Resort, with views overlooking the Gulf of Mexico enjoy casual fare.. 1 Duval Street, Key West, FL; pierhouse.com
Sunset Key Guest Cottages, A Westin Resort Private island with ferry access to mainland Key West. One to four bedroom cottages available each with equipped kitchen, living and dining areas, Flatscreen cable television, complimentary Wi-Fi access and veranda. The Spa at Sunset Key offers a comprehensive menu of services. Dine or have cocktails at Latitudes Restaurant, Bistro 245, Flippers Pool Bar, Sunset Deck and Sunset Pier. 245 Front Street, Key West, FL; westinsunsetkeycottages.com
Little Palm Island Resor t & Spa Located on Little Torch Key, private bungalows are spread throughout the property. The dining room serves fresh seafood overlooking the ocean, led by Executive Chef Roly Cruz-Taura. SpaTerre spa offers treatments onsite and the resort offers a variety of water activities. 28500 Overseas Hwy, Little Torch Key, FL; littlepalmisland.com Santa Maria Suites Forbes Hamilton managed luxury hotel, close to Duval Street. 35 one-bedroom and two-bedroom suites with fully equipped kitchen, living area, laundry room with washer and dryer and three 42-inch flat screen TVs. Daily happy hour with wine, complimentary smoothies, bottled water, popsicles and fresh fruit served poolside. Visit Ambrosia restaurant for sushi. 1401 Simonton St, Key West, FL; santamariasuites.com
Southernmost on the Beach 124 newly renovated rooms. Shores bar, and hammocks and private pier offers views of the Atlantic Ocean. Named one of the top ten hotels in the USA for Romance. 508 South St, Key West, FL; southernmostresorts.com/southernmost-on-the-beach
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SPANISH MOSS COVERED OAK TREES, MARSHLANDS, DREAMY MANSIONS AND SOUTHERN CHARM. KAILASH MAHARAJ TAKES THE TRIP OF A LIFETIME TO SOUTH CAROLINA. PHOTOGRAPHED BY K&S MEDIA
WHAT’S COME OVER ME? I’M NOT AN EXTROVERT. I CRINGE AT COCKTAIL PARTIES AND I don’t excel at small talk. But somehow I can’t quite help striking up a conversation with Sidi Limehouse at his Rosebank Farms on John’s Island in South Carolina. “When I was a boy all of this was undeveloped and no matter how far away, you would talk to your neighbor,” he says while chewing tobacco. His words reveal the ultimate code of the south – hospitality. It’s not the first time I’ve been out of character. I had begun my trip chatting with chefs and musicians at Euphoria, the 8 year old food and musical festival held annually in Greenville. “We want to keep it small,” says Carl Sobocinski co-founder of the event which includes concerts, wine seminars, restaurant tastings, dinners and chef demonstrations. Over the course of the three-day event, I finally understand the fuss of fried green tomatoes, red velvet cake, and chess pie and I am moved by the intimate musings of Grammy award winning songwriters like Tim Nichols. Sobocinski’s commitment to keep Euphoria manageable ensures attendees have the sort of intimate experiences that I’ve adored. Indeed, a local tells me, “I took a well known singer to an event. She’s played all over the world but she said this was the best venue she ever played.” The festival has done much to highlight Greenville's burgeoning culinary scene, and one weeknight I dine at The Lazy Goat beautifully positioned on the banks of the Reedy River. With its antique market décor –clocks on the wall, wrought iron cursive pieces, large solid wood tables and mosaic blue bar flanked by a wood burning oven it is a local hotspot. As the restaurant serves Mediterranean cuisine, tapas plates appear – brussel sprouts caramelized and crunchy with an undertone of garlic; fried goat cheese spheres with pistachio dust and vanilla honey drizzle; shrimp pizza with a tasty pesto and a kick of chili. The standout is the chocolate tart with coconut. Its unpretentious looks resembling a granola bar belie rich dark chocolate, coffee, toasted coconut, and whipped cream. Chelsea, my server, originally from Michigan has been in Greenville six years. “It’s a blessing being here,” she says as if telepathically intuiting my own experience. Countless times I am standing in the street in Greenville looking puzzled and just beginning to form a question in my mind when someone comes to my aid. Their manner is invariably funny, jovial, and genuine. Offers of assistance are proffered not as special gifts motivated by commerce or fraught responsibilities but as natural, commonplace gestures. Once, a man who had already walked four miles for his medication went out of his way to take me to my destination. Another time, someone saw me taking tourist pictures near a replica bronze boar (the original is in Florence) and begins a conversation as though we’ve been lifelong friends and within minutes we are speaking about everything taboo including religion and politics. Greenville has done much to reinvent itself in the last decade. Its main street filled with shops, restaurants, event space, arts venues and cafés was once considered, like most inner cities, a dilapidated lost cause. Due to its mild weather (attracting retirees) and jobs created by BMW, Michelin and GE, the area has seen an influx of people and prosperity. Though it lacks many of the stereotypical symbols of Southern living, Greenville is a 21st century city without airs or pretense. Within a few days downtown Greenville is familiar, walkable, and easy. Street musicians perhaps here for the festival play their instruments or sing, the weekend farmer's market brings out vivacious crowds and dog bowls ready with treats for pets are placed outside many stores. "Greenville has everything you want, like Starbucks, but it's still small enough to feel comfortable," says Athena Ferguson of Greenville Glides when I arrive for a segway tour of the city. I am joined by a married couple from Spartanburg as we zip through main street, Fluor Field, the baseball stadium, the Shoeless Joe Jackson statue and museum, the Peace Centre, and The Westin Poinsett. At Falls Park on the Reedy, in the middle of downtown, ducks, loons, and geese swim in the catchment beneath the falls, people jog on Liberty Bridge or use the swings at rest areas. Another day I visit the religious art collection at Bob Jones University Museum and Gallery an interactive and immersive museum, considered the largest collection of religious art in the Western Hemisphere. Greenville evokes something of Norman Rockwell – ensconced in the halcyon days of America’s heyday. Not that it is saccharine or backward facing (its modern architecture and city planning say otherwise) but there is something of archetypal Americana about Greenville. Clockwise from top left: Reedy River Falls in Greenville; boiled peanuts at Caesars Head State Park; Ed Land of Chattooga Belle Farm in Long Creek; a charming street view of Charleston. citystyleandliving.com | WINTER 2014/15 | 49
To see the South Carolina countryside, I drive up toward the North Carolina border early one morning past small towns their water towers emerging above the tree line, past hand painted signs for boiled peanuts, little strip malls, grand Victorians, gas stations and oak trees. On the grounds of a former school, I go ziplining with Wildwater. The rush of swinging through the tree canopy, of tandem lines, and views over water is equal to the thrill of taking off from the bell tower with no landing platform in sight. Our group forms an easy camaraderie, Mike and Audrey, the father daughter duo, joke about fainting goats, mathematics and age while, Heather and Nate, our guides, are easygoing. I am dizzy with laughter through most of the lines. As the only foreigner, the group teaches me about kudzu (a notorious climbing vine), mudding (“welcome to the South,” says Heather) and make me taste the leaf of a sourwood tree (a laxative). I practically float from ziplinging to the mountains. And the shadow of the Blue Ridge Mountains looms large at Chattooga Belle Farm in Long Creek like a diorama – forever receding into evaporating vapors of blue. As I sit with owner Ed Land at Belle's Bistro munching on a gorgeous apple salad and corn bread, he points to Rabun Bald in Georgia and turns slightly motioning toward North Carolina – much of the fabled south within his purview. Formerly the largest commercial apple producer east of the Mississippi River, partly owned by Groucho Marx, the farm has become a centrepoint for agro-tourism in the state. “Farming is a small financial footprint. Most of the money comes from weddings,” says Land of the 138-acre farm’s diversified offerings including 18 varieties of fruit, grass fed Angus beef, honey, a 18-hole disc golf course, a store, wine (from the region’s muscadine grapes and other fruit) and plans to become the first legal moonshine distillery in the county. Land was an army drill sergeant and worked in the construction business before taking ownership of the farm in 2010. But his brawniness softens as he speaks about his favourite moment – the farm’s first wedding – with a Marine corps officer in full military regalia. “I loaded up at sunset to take the couple to the lake house in a 1942 military Jeep. We drove across the far hill faced back and saw the mountains. The couple teared up. It was a precious moment that still brings tears to my eyes.” If there is a lesson from this gauzy land it is the power of its beauty. Later, I visit Happy Cow Creamery a 100 acre dairy farm in Pelzer owned by the legendary Tom Trantham. There is a small (28 by 30 foot) shop abutting the bottling plant his wife designed, a sheepdog is traipsing through the property and a delivery truck has just loaded the last cases of milk which travels just 48 feet from “teat to bottle.” The farm produces low-temperature pasteurized milk, buttermilk and butter sold onsite and at grocery stores throughout the region. As we tour the farm, there is an unbelievable story of Steinbeck proportions at every turn. Stopping near some grazing cows Trantham looks shocked at his own success. “I can’t explain what this is, this is over my head” he says in disbelief at the farm’s evolution. His tone is firm underscored by conviction, humour and an unbreakable spirit. Beginning in the grocery business with his father aged 12, Trantham shifted to his dream of being a dairy farmer. In the years that followed, “things were real good,” he was top in the state at a time
when there were approximately 500 dairies (today only 75 remain). His success led to a cycle of borrowing from the bank for bigger and better until 1986, when South Carolina was the epicenter of the worst drought in a century; foreclosure loomed. The fortuitous arrival of a news crew documenting the devastation led to a surreptitious call from fellow farmer Mr. Pauley of Illinois who offered Trantham his surplus of hay. This blossomed into Trantham spearheading the largest farmer-to-farmer event in US agriculture whereby $2.5 million worth of hay was distributed to family farms in the area. “No money ever exchanged hands,” he says proudly. Farms though echo the vicissitudes of life, and from the high of that time, he subsequently received news from the bank that he was in debt again. Dejected, he found that his cows had busted a gate and headed to a pasture that had not been plowed. “I stomped my hat. I’m going to watch television. Count me out,” he recalls in frustration. The cows however came back smelling differently and “milking like crazy that night.” From then on he transformed his farming techniques, “I was going to follow the cows instead of leading them.” Eventually, Trantham developed the renowned 12 Aprils program which relies on chemical free pastures and a 29-day rotation for his herd of Holstein cattle. We make our way to the newly constructed warehouse and Trantham is beaming. It resurfaces several times during our conversation, everything that Trantham needed came to him at the right time – from a rooftop hot water heater; to thousands of yards of geotextile fabric to prevent the cows from getting hurt in enormous mud piles (it has now become a USDA standard). I see too that for every trial there is recompense, and how, at your breaking point, if you let go, you can be lead. From languid farms I take in an adrenaline rush at the BMW Performance Driving School in Greer. I am partnered with Joe from Kentucky whose wife bought him the test drive as a birthday gift. “He’s such a wonderful man I wanted to get something for him,” she tells me later. I drive 5 different models of car testing their power on a course before off-roading through water, hills and turns. Moving from upcountry down to the tidal flats of Charleston, brings me finally to what South Carolina locals call, “a special city.” More than just part of the amorphous south, South Carolina and Charleston especially holds a certain mystique and my first views of the Arthur Ravenel Jr. bridge, palmetto lined streets and vaunted mansions are unforgettable. Even after taking a drenched carriage ride through the city past the Battery, the market, and Charleston’s famous churches the magic is not dispelled. The heartbreakingly romantic scene reaches its apex at Boone Plantation, the oldest continuously operated plantation in the U.S. At Hall’s Chophouse the refracted din of happy diners substantiates that Charleston is firmly established as one of America’s great food cities. When I speak to chefs who have come here from other states they feel as if forged from the land. “They would have to give me an offer I couldn’t refuse for me to move back,” says one chef before adding that everyone who left Charleston has moved back or wants to move back. Chef Frank Lee explains the uniqueness of Charleston one night when I dine at his restaurant Slightly North of Broad (SNOB). “The food scene in Charleston is so good because of the collaboration and cooperation between chefs,” says Lee, “You don’t see the camaraderie that you do in Charleston."
Looking from the Atlantic Room at the Ocean Course Clubhouse toward the famed Ocean Course at Kiawah Island Golf Resort. citystyleandliving.com | WINTER 2014/15 | 51
THE COMPACTED SLATE COLOURED SAND MAKES A roadway for my bike to glide easily along the 10 mile expanse of beach. The water too is grey and though there is no demarcation between them except for the occasional foam flowing toward the shore, it is not dull. I could ride until sunset, free and blissful, watching as beach patrol throws a football, people walk their dogs, children make sandcastles, a man flies a kite, and college students bathe in the water, each respectful of others’ space. I am staying at the Sanctuary at Kiawah Island Golf Resort, part Tara mansion (of Margaret Mitchell lore) part modern island playground, it was specifically designed so that guests do not see the ocean until they arrive at the lobby. The effect, after driving through wetlands and forest, is a dawning. My room with its massive bathroom, wet bar and glorious ocean views continues the theme of old world hideout. More than anything, though, the resort operates on a sort of supercharged Southern hospitality. From the genteel front desk staff including Greg and Chris to my ongoing rapport with Charles Pickett Concierge Supervisor where one question turns into a riotous chat to the shuttle drivers who take me to and from various points on the island including Mason Charles, the resort's first employee and JT at the Ocean Room who prepares an entire itinerary for me sourcing maps and planning the logistics, when I casually mention I have a few hours to spare, the resort has cultivated genuine service. I am convinced too that there are no coincidences here. Soon after my arrival, I meet Jake Feary (whom I later learn is Assistant Director of Outdoor Programs) in the parking lot. I am inspecting some purple berries when he suddenly appears and supplies me with the Latin name of plant. A few minutes later, in the lobby, I overhear a guest asking the concierge if she’s seen Jake and I am able to tell her he’s on his way. While I spend leisurely mornings on my balcony watching kids play on manicured lawns or strolling near Straw Market before stopping in for breakfast at Southern Kitchen, most afternoons are spent enjoying the island’s numerous activities. One day I go paddleboarding with Marcie as my guide. Though I fight against winds and current and my own lack of coordination to steer my board and can't make it far past the dock, I am emboldened to try it again. To ease the muscles I used crouching on the paddleboard I visit the Spa at The Sanctuary at Kiawah Island Golf Resort its tranquility overlooking the resort’s grounds begin the balming effect of my subsequent massage. The island boasts 30 miles of biking trails and with Julianna Smith my guide for the Wildlife in the Wetlands Bike Tour I see much of Kiawah's western side. Along mostly flat paved asphalt trails, we discover the natural world in its minutiae and at its most powerful – the head of an alligator popping out of the water surrounded by her babies, a spider whose web is used for weaving or making nets, different types of mushrooms and cicada molting. We pass fishermen and people crabbing at Bass Pond, the first beach bungalows on Eugenia Avenue dwarfed by the mammoth houses that have become the norm, and at Rhett’s Bluff, the remnants of the Kiawah Indians. At one point we climb a spiral staircase to a wooden watch tower to see marshlands with their deviating dance of land
He points to Rabun bald in Georgia and turns slightly motioning toward North Carolina – much of the fabled south within his purview. and water. For all its development, Kiawah is still a world unto itself. The ecosystem here is a marvel, and at times I forget that Charleston or the world for that matter exists. The land itself is an inspiration to the resorts’ chefs including Brendon Bashford executive Chef at The Sanctuary. “There are lessons of seasonality here. We stop at all the farms and we are fortunate for the land in itself. The sand flats carry sand within the soil which affects the produce making it sweeter. It is the terroir.” My dining experiences range from the swanky Ocean Room, where I enjoy a delicious meal that begins with mushroom panna cotta with micro celery with a pepper crumb and ends in the tactile delight of a melting chocolate dome to dinner at Cherrywood BBQ with its smoked meats, nachos and chicken quesadilla and great local beer. The highlight of my dining experiences is dinner at the Atlantic Room at the Ocean Clubhouse. “If you have a great view you don’t generally get great food,” says my waiter. “This is different.” Chef Jonathan Banta mixes Latin flavours with Southern fare producing marvelous dishes like a refreshing burrata and peach salad, crispy shrimp and mussels in a broth of parsley white wine, celeriac. Perhaps most special is seeing the chef’s family at the next table, their pride evident with every bite. The casual fare at the resort does not disappoint either. Beaches and Cream serves ice cream, candy, cookies, sandwiches and their specialty praline. Manager Laurel Palmer arrived in 2007. “It used to be dark and like a closet and only served ice cream in the summer.” Wanting to revitalize the space and make it a place for every age group, and every gender she decorates it seasonally turning it into a year round destination. I stop by one day to taste their dedicated flavours beaches and cream and Laurel’s salted caramel and to enjoy their fabulous coffee made on an exquisite machine baristas use for competitions. With his Chesapeake Bay retriever named Cooper by his side Captain Matthew Arnold, naturalist, warns that there will be a lot of bird talk on the Dolphin Encounter tour. He is perpetually “amped to see some birds” (on a trip to Mozambique he rose early and left his campsite to go looking for birds. Upon his return he learned that the area had not been cleared of landmines). As we ply the waters of the Kiawah river which is fed by the sea, Arnold is electric as he points out great blue herons (GBH, as he called them), egrets, cormorants, waders and shorebirds. He stops the boat when he sees a bald eagle perched on a tree and we sit in awe before it takes flight. The real draw, however, are the estimated 25 Atlantic Bottlenose Dolphins that strand feed (corral fish onto land to eat) at Captain
Clockwise from top left: Tom Trantham of Happy Cow Creamery in Pelzer; a fabulous door in Charleston; marshland at Kiawah Island Golf Resort; blue crab. citystyleandliving.com | WINTER 2014/15 | 53
Sam’s Inlet. It is one of only a few places worldwide where this behaviour has been observed. With a scientific background Arnold is hesitant to get too close and interfere with the dolphins and we keep our distance. Instead, Arnold lowers a hydrophone into to the water for us to hear the dolphins, adjusting until we hear them make a kind of plonking sound. “Oh! That’s so cool,” says Arnold whose conversation alternates between scientific nomenclature and shy, surfer-dude jokes (a classic of the genre: what did the vulture take on the plane? Car-
rion). “Scientists can become very involved in their work and very disconnected. That’s why I like coming out here because it is rejuvenating – seeing the birds and other people’s reactions,” he says. As I leave Mingo Point, Jake Feary unexpectedly hails out to me. “Oh, I have something for you,” he says before presenting me with a booklet on local plants. It’s as if South Carolina has given me a present. But of course, I should expect this. South Carolina is a place to make old friends of people you’ve never met. CSL
RESOURCE GUIDE: SOuTH CAROLINA WHEN TO GO
Avoid scorching summer heat and opt for fall, spring or winter travel.
Air Connect through major US hubs to Greenville or Charleston.
GREENVILLE AND UPCOUNTRY
Thriving modern Greenville and its picturesque countryside offer a great mix. visitgreenvillesc.com
Ceasars Head State Park Majestic Blue Ridge views and hawk watch program. 8155 Geer Hwy, Cleveland; (864) 836-6115; southcarolinaparks.com
Wildwater Canopy tours (zip-lining) and rafting. (866) 319-8870; wildwaterrafting.com
Chatooga Belle Farm Mountain views, u-pick, farm tours and dining at Belle's Bistro. 454 Damascus Church Rd, Long Creek; (864) 647-9768; chattoogabellefarm.com Happy Cow Creamery Tour the dairy and sample milk, buttermilk, and ice cream from the farm’s own herd. 332 McKelvey Rd, Pelzer; (864) 2439699; happycowcreamery.com
Greenville Glides Segway through downtown Greenville and get a glimpse into
the city’s history and major sites. 233 N Main St #3, Greenville; (864) 214-0119; greenvillesegwaytours.com
TD Saturday Market Greenville’s main street is transformed into a lively farmer’s market. saturdaymarketlive.com
BMW Per formance Driving Experience Driver training courses and offroad lessons. 1400 Hwy 101 S, Greer; (864) 989-5300; bmwusfactory.com
Euphoria Amazing annual music, food and wine festival. euphoriagreenville.com
EAT AND STAY
The Lazy Goat Mediterranean menu especially small plates. 170 River Place, Greenville; (864) 679-5299; thelazygoat.typepad.com Roost Local, organic, and seasonal food. 220 N Main St, Greenville; (864) 298-2424; roostrestaurant.com
Hyatt Greenville Centrally located modern hotel. 220 N Main St, Greenville, (864) 235-1234; greenville.hyatt.com
COLUMBIA EAT AND STAY
Oak Table Restaurant Seasonal, traditional southern food with Asian touches including in-house charcuterie. 1221 Main St, Columbia; theoak-
CHARLESTON AND AREA DO
Boone Hall Plantation One of America's oldest plantations, legendary for its avenue of oaks. 1235 Longpoint Road, Mt. Pleasant, (843) 884-4371; boonehallplantation.com Palmetto Carriage Works Fun, informative tours of Charleston. 8 Guignard St, Charleston; (843) 723-8145; palmettocarriage.com
EAT AND STAY
Halls Chophouse Restaurant Popular family owned steakhouse with a renowned wine list. 423 King Street, Charleston; (843)727-0090; hallschophouse.com
The Mills House Hotel Situated in downtown Charleston the hotels dates to 1853. 115 Meeting St, Charleston; (843) 577-2400; millshouse.com Slightly Nor th of Broad, SNOB Lowcountry food the restaurant features an open kitchen. 192 E Bay St, Charleston, (843) 7233424; MaverickSouthernKitchens.com
CHARLESTON KIAWAH ISLANDJOHNS ISLAND
The drive from Charleston to kiawah Island epitomizes low country terrain. Inlets and swamp slowly give way to archways of bearded oak trees and woods as if one primeval force bowed to another long ago. I am driving the 2015 Mazda6 mid-size sedan along quiet two lane roads never far from the sea. There is ample room for my luggage and the interior is sleek and ergonomic. To navigate the narrow, often one way streets of Charleston I program the TomTombased navigation to an Australian voice using the metric system which proves both useful and hilarious ("if those backseat drivers don't keep it down we'll ditch them at the next servo” and “grab your sunnies and don't let the seagulls steal your chips”). It is raining as I leave Charleston and I like that many of the car's features including rainsensing windshield wipers and automatic headlights make it easy to focus on the road. Outside of the city most roads are two lanes bordered by forest on either side, the blind Spot Monitoring proves important when the road widens and the occasional semi-trailer truck passes. The connections among Charleston's various islands are not discernible and it is not long before I near kiawah Island the rearview camera and obstruction warning system help me as the traﬃc volume increases. Another day I tour Johns Island along winding roads that take me to the famed ancient Angel oak tree, Charleston Tea plantation and family farms. The accelerator is buttery soft and on barren roads I test the 2.5 liter, four cylinder Skyactiv-G engine. Only after several days, do I refuel the car. This car has a multitude of automatic features which make it easy to drive, taking the guesswork out of driving. mazda.ca
KIAWAH EAT STAY DO SEE
Kiawah Island Golf Resor t Gated upscale resort features residences (villas), Sanctuary, multiple dining options and world-class golf. 1 Sanctuary Beach Dr, Kiawah Island; 1 (800) 654-2924; kiawahresort.com
Clockwise from top left: the beach at Kiawah Island Golf Resort; a fisherman at Bass Pond at Kiawah Island Golf Resort; a waitress at Euphoria in Greenville; a brick building in Greenville home to yearlong events. citystyleandliving.com | WINTER 2014/15 | 55
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GREEN ESCApE The calm marsh waters of kiawah Island.
â&#x20AC;&#x153;Little by little, one travels far"
- J.R.R. Tolkien
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