City Style and Living Magazine Fall 2017

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THE C OOK ISLANDS Celebrating 10 Years


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Featuring the hottest local, national and international content in: Food, Fashion and Travel pLuS! We’re a proudly Green Magazine * This is $18.00 per yearly subscription. Shipping costs not included. Price in Canadian Dollars.



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CITY FALL 2017 | V O L u M E   1 0   I S S u E   4   | C O N T E N T S



13 23-24 30-35 41




cious and simple recipe for dark brown bread.

LIVING Natural hair colour, excellent stretches, and how walking can ease you back into your exercise routine.

25-29 HELEN OF



12-14 FUSION New protein-rich and filling snacks, plus our primer on copper pots and pans. 15 IMBIBE


TROY Some of falls best fragrances, capturing the looks from the runway, the seasons best new products and exfoliating scrubs.

36-38 ST YLIST

Velvet shoes, check pattern for fall, and some of this season’s accessory trends. CSL TRAVEL

41 TOUR GUIDE Actress Nikki Leigh on riding elephants in ailand and the stud in her life, Kodi.

A twist on the classic Moscow mule, and a refreshing cider cocktail.

16-19 Kitchen


Wine and food are a match made in heaven. ese recipes will show you why. Plus, a deli-




Crystal blue waters, friendly locals, coconut palms swaying in the breeze, is this the South Pacific Island nation of your dreams? CSL explores the sights, sounds, eats and adventures that will make you want to come back to the Cook Islands. P42-56


C SL GR EEN TIPS Try solar shingles which protect the roof and store energy for household use. / Buy a car the size that you need. / Invest in a solar water heater. › | FALL 2017 | 3 FOOD    |    FASHION   |    TRAVEL    |    LIFESTyLE    |    THE EDITORS NOTEbOOK    |    bLOG




Publisher K & S Media Editors-in-Chief Kailash Maharaj and Shivana Maharaj Editorial Assistant Emily Hunt Creative Director Georgina Wong Photo Director Darrel Mellow Fashion and Beauty Editor Shivana Maharaj Food Editor Kailash Maharaj Production Director Sonya Lambert

THE EDITORS NOTEBOOK Assistant Production Manager Matthew Livingston

Publisher K & S Media - Earth is a Beautiful Heaven

Art Direction and Design K & S Media

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Deputy Art Director Keith Moon

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Designer Chris Schultz Managing Editor/Director of Advertising Dr. Rookmin Maharaj Contributors Amber Alent Marc Duncan Arianna Grace James S. Sinclair

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Publica tions Agreement No. 41599042 City Style and Living is published four times each year. No part of this publication may be reproduced by any means in whole or in part without the prior written consent of the publisher. Although every effort is taken to ensure accuracy, K & S Media cannot be held responsible for any errors, or omissions that may occur. The magazine assumes no responsibility for the safekeeping or return of unsolicited manuscripts, photographs, artwork or other material. All rights reserved 2017. A proudly Green Magazine.

C SL GR EEN TIPS Install reflectors near driveway instead of lights. / Visit tile yards for discarded or broken pieces and have an artisan transform into flooring. ›› 4

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Call 1-800-432-JOIN (5646) Photo © David Schrichte



A beach on Rarotonga, Cook Islands.

AZY SUMMER INEVITABLY TURNS TO THE FRANTIC pulse of school runs, extracurricular activities and work, hallmarks of fall. What had been improvised becomes scheduled, long days suddenly contract with withering daylight, carelessness gives way to an intense focus on grades and performance. When, not so long ago, calendars were dominated by agricultural rhythms, this was a time of harvest, work reaching an arduous denouement. Thus, it is not surprising that our thoughts too turn from the frivolous to the serious. Scrolling through a website, I happened upon an interview with someone on the ascendant in a field I was keen to break into. What caught my attention was her answer to a question about the best business advice she had received. “Never do anything for free. If what you’re doing has value, people will pay you for it,” she responded. Her thinking, like that of many others, is that if you do something for free it sets up a false expectation that your work is not worth paying for and that if, at some point, someone pays you, you may as well get that sum from the beginning. I bristled at the remark, not sure as to exactly why. It seemed in some fashion coarse and crude. Here though was someone with the re-




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sume to attest to her advice. I softened my position and silently acquiesced. Someone who had made it seemed like the exact person to heed. Perhaps she was correct – money is power, money is the measure of things in modern life. Doing things for money is healthy, sane and productive. Hard work should be given its due. It seemed reasonable, logical even, in an economically oriented society, tasks are ascribed a dollar amount. Beneath the logic though, reservations still percolated and they seemed to be assuaged when I heard someone speak of integrity as the thing that would remain when his life expired. Another time someone sighed, lamenting that there is no sense of doing things for their own sake anymore. What is of value? What is of most value? What work should receive the highest compensation? It’s not for me or anyone else for that matter, to decide. No, that is a deeply personal question. Your life, the choices you make, reveal your values. CSL








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Wheat fields in the foreground, and cityscape in the background, touchstones of fall.


| FALL 2017 |




Healthy Living Ideas We Love


In need of a lifestyle shake up, let us show you how


How to Mix Henna and Cassia For best gray coverage, mix henna and cassia with an acidic liquid, such as apple cider vinegar or lemon juice, to help the pigment adhere to hair (I have also used plain water in a pinch with no adverse effects). If I’m looking to add yellow, I favor adding lemon juice, and if I’m adding red, apple cider vinegar. you can also experiment with mixing henna and cassia with various other liquids such as coffee or teas, alone or in combination with apple cider vinegar or lemon juice (see box on opposite page). The main criterion to consider when choosing tea is how the color of the tea will combine with the herbal colorant. Lemon juice or chamomile tea mixed with cassia will add a boost of brightness to cassia’s blond result. Similarly, adding lemon juice or chamomile tea to henna will brighten henna with a hint of gold. Conversely, using raspberry or pomegranate tea and apple cider vinegar will give cassia and henna a red assist.


Add liquid to the pure herbal powder until the mixture is the consistency of pudding (see photo at right). For example, if you’re using 31/2 ounces (100 g) of powder, start with 1/2 cup of liquid, stir, and add more as necessary to make a thick pudding consistency. The amount of powder you need varies by hair type and length (see box on page 106). Then cover the mixture and let it sit, undisturbed, for several hours (at least 2 hours; overnight is best). Henna does seem to be a bit lumpier than cassia, but after sitting for several hours, the lumps in the henna will disappear with stirring. Excerpted from Natural Hair Coloring, © by Christine Shahin Wood.  photography by © Mars Vilaubi. used with permission from Storey publishing.


Dissolve stiffness with these three stretches.  Hold each stretch for five to ten seconds.

1/ ARCHED ANGEL Stand with your legs shoulder width apart. Breathe in, and lift arms overhead grabbing your right hand with your left hand and gently lean your upper body toward left side of hips to form an arch. Switch to the opposite side and repeat.

2/ FOLDED ENVELOPE Stand with your legs shoulder width apart. Lace your fingers behind your lower back, palms facing outward. Roll your shoulders backward , slightly bend knees and fold your torso over your legs. Relax your head and stretch your arms up.


3/ RAINBOW WAVE On a mat, kneel on your shins, supporting your lower back with your hands. Bring your elbows together, and lift your chest to bring shoulder blades together. Gently arch your torso backward.


Everyone, at some point has uttered ‘I wish I had more time.’  Maybe it’s more time to spend with family or friends; more time to exercise and eat healthy; or more time to go back to school. How do you make more time for those truly important things in your life? Dr. Alok Trivedi, author of Chasing Success, believes the key is to manage time more effectively.

1/ MINIMIZE, MINIMIZE AND MINIMIZE SOME MORE There was a reason Marie Kondo’s novel about tidying up your space to become happy was so successful. Eliminate the unnecessary and find what you love in the process. Less is really more.

2/ BEING BUSY DOES NOT BRING YOU VALUE It can be all too easy to be running around completing task after task. Many people view this form of productivity as determining their worth in society. It’s wise to assess what in your life is brining you value.  business is an excuse and distraction to overlook the things in which you may be afraid to focus your energy on. 3/ DIFFERENTIATE BETWEEN EFFICIENCY AND EFFECTIVENESS your time is precious and needs to be allocated to the most important things. When you are doing any task, approach it within a concept of both maximum efficiency and total effectiveness to reap the best results.;

CSL GREE N TIPS Sprinkle carpet with baking sodato absorb odours. / Opt for wool carpets or other materials that do not off-gas. / Mix borax and water to use as a disinfectant. ›› | FALL 2017 | 9



Walk after your meal to control your blood  sugar levels. A little goes a long way, aim for 150 minutes per  week of exercise to add  longevity to your life.  pump your arms for a more intense workout,  and help speed up your  pace.



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➡ you don’t need to run a 10K or participate in CrossFit to achieve health inside and out!

Intelliskin  Essential bra in ‘fig’ and Stride Tights in ‘steel’;


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K&S Media

Earth is a beautiful heaven K&S MEDIA

Take Labour Day as the new New Year, only with pretty fall foliage. With the start of the new school year and back to work for most, use this buzzing energy to revitalize your fitness routine. If you’ve been taking it easy through the summer months, ease back into things with a walking schedule. Start with short 10minute bursts three days a week and slowly increase the time and length —try out a new hiking spot for a bit of adventure or simply take a walk during lunchtime. These little steps will yield big results.



Cheese PLATE


Need a quick dessert or appetizer for a gathering? Want to feed a crowd easily? Assemble a cheese platter. place a creamy, hard, and blue cheese on a wooden board with a few nuts, seeds, honey, olives, spiced yogurt and viola! | FALL 2017 | 11

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• Maintain Management Plan.


ASIA 2.0

Who doesn’t love Asian food?  quick, delicious, sometimes spicy and utterly satisfying, rev up your regular at home meals with these simple tweaks to your favourite dishes.

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• Utilize project management skills to manage multiple projects/initiatives and provide progress reporting and status updates. • Liaise with external contractors to ensure that communication about documentation is received in a timely manner.

Combine a little Asian flair with tacos. Fry wontons for an extra crisp shell, and top with pickled vegetables, rice, diced avocado and fresh tuna.

Who doesn’t love a fresh Vietnamese roll? Instead of rice paper, try using tofu sheets (available at Asian groceries), stuffed with fried prawns and rice.

Swap starch-heavy sushi rice with quinoa. The chewiness adds added texture to sushi rolls, and is full of fibre.


Want to feel satiated and get a boost of energy with healthy snacks? Get a hold of these great new products.

• Setup and manage document distribution matrix.

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Who knew that a truffle made only of dates, coconut oil, salt and nuts could taste this good? These vegan, sugar-free bites are idea for hikers, campers and yoga enthusiasts. They are also great to stash at your desk for that 3 pm pick-me-up.


Made with blanched California almonds, this nut butter has a delicate flavour. Offered in a variety of flavours and textures, the company also produces raw almonds, dip cups, dip packs and almond meal. We tried the Bare Smooth which was creamy especially when liberally spread on morning toast.

CSL GRE EN TIPS Use the economy optionon your dishwasher. / For small dishes opt for a toaster oveninstead of a conventional oven. / Put a lid on potsto cook food more quickly. ›› 12

| FALL 2017 |

World Pantry Celebrate a taste of Spain, Canada, India and South America with these healthy, delicious and unique products.


Passionfruit is one of those flavours that immediately transports you to the tropics, and this vinegar has all the punch of the fruit – perfect for dressings, marinades, and sauces. We also like it in sweet concoctions as an icing (think lemon drizzle cake), or to brighten up fruit in pavlova. 250 ml;


What’s different with this canned tuna is that it is low mercury, Canadian wild caught, without added water or oil. We liked the subtle smoked flavour of this chunk of tuna that flakes easily. It certainly adds a certain je ne sais quoi to a salad niçoise. 150g;


From the land of fire (Tierra del Fuego) comes these burgundy beans that resemble spotted kidney beans. A great substitute in chile, we also like them in a pickled bean salad, in soups, and, for something different, a South American twist on cassoulet. 250g;


Spanish olive oil tends to have peppery notes making it suited for vinaigrette, drizzling on dishes and dipping with bread. This blend comes packaged in a dark, glass bottle for optimal storage. Ole! 750ml;


It’s become the latest superfood to gain recognition for its antiseptic, antibacterial and memory-boosting properties. It’s also a key ingredient in many Indian curries. Often found in dry form (where many of its benefits are lost) this paste is made from fresh turmeric – add a teaspoon for a truly mind enhancing experience! 250g, $11.99; | FALL 2017 | 13


CSL cooked a variety of dishes in each of the pots over the course of a few weeks. We tested the pots for ease of use (did they heat up quickly? did they stick?) , versatility and ease in clean up.


Never heat an empty copper pan, as they can melt at lower heat levels. As copper is an efficient conductor of energy (and offers a consistent temperature), pots heat up at a lower heat level than average pots and pans. POLISH UP

The Cooks Best Friend


Versatile for everything from quickly sautéing vegetables, to searing meat and frying eggs, this 10.2 inch pan will be one of the most well used in your arsenal. Mauviel M'150b Copper & Stainless Steel Round Frying Pan, bronze handle, $275.

Comfort Food Perfected


As far as fall food goes, nothing is more iconic than a stew. Cooking meat and root vegetables low and slow for hours creates an unctuous result. These pots are oven safe, so you can quickly sear meat for 20 minutes, add your liquid and vegetables, and then place into the oven. Mauviel M'150s Copper and Stainless Steel Stew pot with Lid, 6.4 qt, $495.

To maintain the quality, there are several at home recipes for shining your copper – however a light acidic solution (lemon, vinegar) will prevent tarnishing. Combine equal parts salt, lemon juice, ketchup and flour. Spread over your pans, and keep for 3-5 minutes, then wipe off with a sponge and wash with regular dishwashing soap for best results.

Coming Up Rosy Much more than a beautiful kitchen accessory, copper pots and pans can be the home cook’s best friend – here’s why. GREAT FOR EVERYDAY COOKING Any reputable French bistro is measured by a few identifying features- wrought iron chairs, rustic charm, and a line of gleaming copper pots displayed in the kitchen. Not only are the pots beautiful to look at, they are legit cooking vessels

- heating quickly (using less energy) and evenly and keeping a consistent temperature. Best of all, the pots are often lined with tin making food less likely to stick. FOR CHOCOLATE, JAM AND CANDY Make caramels, and butterscotch, jam and toffee

in copper pots with more control, and less scorching. Even heat means less lumps for chocolate. Copper pots also cool down quickly. SPECS Mauviel M'150s Copper & Stainless Steel Saucepan & Lid, 1.2 qt, $210; 18/10 stainless steel interior preserves the taste and nutritional qualities of foods.

Bilaminated copper stainless steel (90% copper and 10% 18/10 stainless steel). 14

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Cast stainless steel handles. Made in France.


W H A T ’ S   N E W  A N D  G R E A T   I N  T H E  W O R L D  O F  W I N E  A N D  S p I R I T S

AppLE CART Recipe by Lauren Mote, bittered Sling bitters and uVA Wine & Cocktail bar, Vancouver, bC

“When discussing all things apple, it’s important to me to not only use apple-related products but complementary flavors that taste incredible alongside apples,” says Lauren Mote, the coproprietor of bitters and tincture producer bittered Sling and bar manager at the ultrasleek uVA in Vancouver. For the celebrated Canadian cocktail queen, the Apple Cart is a liquid embodiment of this stance on true flavors. “It is a combination of great ingredients, topped with a funky, tart, and refreshing cider,” she says of the cocktail. “bourbon has an inherent baked apple note, sherry’s got a bit of crisp, fresh apple on the nose... and spiced apple on the palate.” For Mote’s tannic syrup, dried hops can be found at a homebrew store or online. 1½  ounces bulleit bourbon ½ ounce Aperol ½  ounce Lustau East India Solera sherry ¾ ounce lemon juice ¾ ounce Tannic Apple Syrup 2 dashes bittered Sling Zingiber crabapple bitters 4 ounces Tree brewing Dukes Cider Dry Apple cider bouquet of lemon verbena and mint, for garnish The Cider Dukes Cider Dry Apple from Tree brewing, Kelowna, bC. Cider made from a brewery in the center of british Columbia’s wine country, Dukes Dry Apple is produced exclusively from apples grown in Kelowna—now a hotbed for cider fruit. Dry, tart, and lightly carbonated, this cider does the trick for Mote’s multifaceted sipper. Directions Makes 1 cocktail Combine the bourbon, Aperol, sherry, lemon juice, syrup, and bitters in a shaker with ice. Strain into a tall collins glass filled with fresh ice. Top with the cider, stir gently, and serve garnished with a bushy bouquet of lemon verbena and mint. Excerpted from Tasting Cider, © by Sip publishing. photography by © Antonis Achilleos. used with permission from Storey publishing.

pEACH MOSCOW MuLE Add a twist to the traditional, with juicy ripe peaches

Serves 4 3

large ripe peaches (if fresh peaches are not available, use ¾ cup peach puree) ⅓ cup fresh lemon juice 7 ounces vodka 1½ cups ginger beer soda 1 cup ice

few slices for garnish. Place in blender, add a small quantity of water and blend until smooth. Strain puree. To make the cocktail, combine peach juice, and lime juice with vodka in an ice filled shaker. Pour into 4 glasses filled with ice, and top with ginger beer. Garnish with peach slice.

Directions If using fresh peaches make the juice by cutting and pitting peaches, reserving a | FALL 2017 | 15

KITCHEN Coq au Vin

Marriage Made in Heaven One of the great pleasures of the kitchen is matching food and wine or, even simpler, cooking with wine. In a new book Fiona beckett takes the leap with recipes and pairings. pHOTOGRApHy by MOWIE KAy 16

| FALL 2017 |

Mushroom, Mustard and Madeira Soup | FALL 2017 | 17

Mushroom, Mustard and Madeira Soup A rich, intensely delicious soup that makes a good first course for a dinner party. Serves 4–6 75

g (¾) stick butter, plus a little extra  for frying the mushrooms 1  medium onion, finely chopped 1  large garlic clove, finely chopped 500 g (18 oz.) chestnut mushrooms 2  tablespoons Madeira or Oloroso  sherry 1  teaspoon dried porcini powder (optional)* 1  litre (4 cups) mushroom or vegetable stock* 1  medium potato, peeled and sliced 2  teaspoons wholegrain mustard Sea salt and freshly Ground black pepper Lemon juice, to taste Double/heavy cream, to serve Heat the butter in a large saucepan or casserole and add the chopped onion and garlic. Cook over a low heat until soft. Wipe the mushrooms clean, trim the stalks and thinly slice, reserving a good few slices for the garnish. Tip the remaining mushrooms into the butter, stir and cook for about 15 minutes until the mushrooms are brown and the liquid has all but evaporated. Stir in the Madeira or sherry and the porcini powder if using.  Add the stock, bring to the boil then add the sliced potato. Simmer until the potato is soft. Strain, reserving the liquid and blitz in a blender or food processor, gradually adding back the reserved liquid until you have a smooth soup. Return to the pan, add the mustard and reheat gently without boiling. Check the seasoning, adding salt, pepper and lemon juice to taste. To serve, fry the reserved mushroom slices briefly in a little butter. Ladle the soup into warm bowls, top with a swirl of cream and scatter the mushroom slices over the top. *If you use vegetable stock I’d add some dried porcini powder to the mushrooms to intensify the flavor.


A glass of Amontillado sherry is perfect with this or you could drink a rich Chardonnay.


| FALL 2017 |

Coq au Vin This classic French recipe is a terrific dish for a dinner party. The French would always use a local wine to make it—I’d suggest a good Côtes du RhôneVillages, a Gigondas or Lirac. Serves 6 300  g (10½ oz.) shallots 3  tablespoons plain/all-purpose flour 6  large skinless, boneless chicken  breasts 3  tablespoons olive oil 125  g (4 ½ oz.) chopped streaky/fatty  bacon or pancetta cubes 2  garlic cloves, thinly sliced 50  ml (3½ tablespoons) brandy 3  sprigs of thyme 1  bay leaf 1  750 ml (3 ¼ cups) bottle dry fruity  red wine (see recipe introduction) 250  g (3 ½ cups) small button mushrooms 15  g (1 tablespoon) butter, softened  (optional) 3  tablespoons freshly chopped flat leaf  parsley Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper Creamy mashed potatoes or tagliatelle, to serve Cut the shallots into even-sized pieces, leaving the small ones whole and halving or quartering the others. put 2 tablespoons of flour in a shallow dish and season it with salt and pepper. Dip the chicken breasts in the fl our and coat both sides. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large lidded frying pan/skillet or deep flameproof casserole, add the chicken breasts and fry for 2–3 minutes on each side until lightly browned – you may have to do this in two batches. Remove the chicken from the pan, discard the oil and wipe the pan with kitchen paper. Return the pan to the heat and pour in the remaining oil. Add the chopped bacon or pancetta cubes and the shallots and fry until lightly browned. Stir in the garlic, then return the chicken to the pan. put the brandy in a small saucepan and heat it until almost boiling. Set it alight with a long cook’s match or taper and carefully pour it over the chicken. Let the flames die down, then add the thyme and bay leaf and pour in enough wine to just cover the chicken. bring back to simmering point, then reduce the heat, half-cover the pan and simmer very gently for 45 minutes. (If you’re making this dish ahead of time, take the pan off the heat after 30 minutes, let cool and refrigerate overnight.) Add the mushrooms to the pan and cook for another

10–15 minutes. Remove the chicken from the pan, set aside and keep it warm. using a slotted spoon, scoop the shallots, bacon pieces or pancetta cubes and mushrooms out of the pan and keep them warm. Increase the heat under the pan and let the sauce simmer until it has reduced by half. If the sauce needs thickening, mash the remaining soft butter with 1 tablespoon flour to give a smooth paste, then add it bit by bit to the sauce, whisking well after each addition, until the sauce is smooth and glossy. Return the shallots, pancetta and mushrooms to the pan. Check the seasoning and add salt and pepper, to taste. Cut each chicken breast into four slices and arrange them on warm serving plates. Spoon a generous amount of sauce over the chicken and sprinkle with parsley. Serve with creamy mashed potatoes or tagliatelle.


Drink a similar wine to that you’ve used to make the dish. Say, a Côtes du RhoneVillages or a Gigondas.

Roasted Pears with Sweet Wine, Honey and Pine Nuts Roasting pears in wine transforms them from everyday fruit into a light but luxurious dinner party dessert. Their gentle flavour makes a perfect foil for a fine dessert wine. The trick is to use an inexpensive wine for cooking and a better wine of the same type to serve with it.

Serves 6 Freshly squeezed juice of 1 large lemon 9  medium just-ripe Conference pears 50  g (3 ½ tablespoons) butter, softened 3  tablespoons clear fragrant honey,  such as orange blossom 175  ml (¾ cup) premières Côtes de bordeaux or a late harvested Sauvignon  or Sémillon 50  g (½ cup) pine nuts 2  teaspoons caster/granulated sugar 200  ml (1 scant cup) double/heavy cream 2  teaspoons vanilla sugar A large ovenproof dish, buttered (large enough to take the pears in a single layer) preheat the oven to 190˚C (375˚F) Gas 5. Strain the lemon juice into a small bowl. Cut the pears in half, peel them and re-

Roasted Pears with Sweet Wine, Honey and Pine Nuts

move the cores. Dip the pear halves in the lemon juice (this will prevent them discoloring), then put them, cut-sides upwards, in the prepared ovenproof dish. Make sure the pears fit snugly in one layer. put a small knob of butter in the hollow of each pear, then drizzle them with the honey, wine and any remaining lemon juice. bake the pears in the preheated oven for 50– 60 minutes, turning the pears over halfway through. If you notice while the pears are cooking that they are producing a lot of juice, increase the oven temperature to 200˚C (400˚F) Gas 6 to concentrate the juices and form a syrup. Remove the pears from the oven and let cool for about 20 minutes. Meanwhile, lightly toast the pine nuts in a dry, non-stick frying pan/skillet, shaking the pan

occasionally, until they start to brown. Sprinkle over the sugar and continue to cook until the sugar melts and caramelizes. put the cream and vanilla sugar in a small saucepan and heat gently, stirring occasionally, until lukewarm. To serve, put three pear halves on each plate and spoon over some of their cooking syrup. Trickle over 1 tablespoon warm cream and scatter over a few caramelized pine nuts. Alternatively, serve the cream separately for your guests to pour over. CSL

WINE LOVER’S KITCHEN Excerpted from Wine Lover's Kitchen by Fiona beckett, published by Ryland peters & Small, $37.50. Copyright © 2017. photography by Mowie Kay. used with permission by the publisher.


This is a good dessert to pair with a Sauternes or another sweet bordeaux. | FALL 2017 | 19

OUR DAILY BREAD Freshly baked bread is one of the great joys of the kitchen. To get a beautiful dark brown colour this recipe uses molasses, and that toothsome texture comes from seeds and oats. Slather with butter, jam or top with cheese for a perfect dinner.


| FALL 2017 |

Molasses and Seed Bread

Makes 2 loaves 2½ 2 1 1 1 1 1 ¾ 2 3 5 5

cups (625 ml) all-purpose flour, plus 1 tablespoon (15 ml) cups (500 ml) whole wheat flour cup (250 ml) dark rye flour cup (250 ml) barley flour cup (250 ml) rolled oats, plus 1 tablespoon teaspoon (5 ml) sugar tablespoon (15 ml) dried yeast cup (180 ml) molasses teaspoons (10 ml) salt cups (750 ml) warm water tablespoons (75 ml) pumpkin seeds, plus 1 tablespoon ( 15 ml) tablespoons (75 ml) sunflower seeds, plus 1 tablespoon (15 ml)

In a large bowl, mix all-purpose flour, rye flour, barley flour, rolled oats, sugar, yeast, molasses and salt. Make a well in the centre and add

water gradually bringing flour from sides toward the centre. On a floured surface, knead dough for 5 minutes. Add pumpkin seeds and sunflower seeds and knead for a further 3 minutes until dough is elastic. Place in a clean bowl. Cover and let rise in a warm place until doubled, about 1- ½ hours. Punch dough down. Turn onto a lightly floured surface; divide dough in half. Shape each into a loaf. Place in two large well greased loaf pans. Cover and let rise until doubled, about 30-45 minutes. Mix additional all-purpose flour with 1 tablespoon water. Brush on each loaf. Mix together additional seeds and rolled oats. Sprinkle mixture evenly on each loaf. Bake at 375°F (190°C) for 45-60 minutes or until golden brown and bread sounds hollow when tapped. Let cool in pans for 5 minutes. Remove from pans to wire racks to cool. CSL | FALL 2017 | 21



Maximize your look with the perfect eyes – bold, sultry and east to achieve. “The look [at Alexander Wang] is inspired by a woman who is full of confidence. She's the woman who walks into a room and is instantly noticed. She's not afraid of anything,” says artist Diane Kendal using NARS Cosmetics. 22

| FALL 2017 |





W H A T ’ S   N E W  I N  T H E  W O R L D  O F   S K I N ,   b E A u T y ,   M A K E u p   A N D  W E L L - b E I N G



Fake a just-back-from-yoga glow – flushed cheeks, bare face and just a touch of mascara – it’s just one of the many faces on the runway this season. CSL has your guide to fall makeup.



RIBBON Moroccanoil Global Ambassador Antonio Corral Calero achieved this look by tapping into the DNA of the Temperley London woman. Translation? “She is fearless…exudes confidence, is playful and effortless. I wanted to create a soft rock ‘n’ roll, pulledback look using fingers over tools with asymmetric vibes as if she did it herself.” To recreate the look prep hair by applying treatment oil from root to tip using fingers. Part hair in the middle and apply styling cream. Lightly blow dry to help expand the hair. Section hair and using both hands, separate the hair back and forth with fingertips applying texture spray as you go. From the left-hand side, take the hair from the temple down, gathering in the sideburns, sweeping down to the occipital bone and to the right hand side. Bring off-centre and secure the two pieces into a ponytail with a clear elastic. Enhance the rock ‘n’ roll vibe with loosened baby hairs around the sideburns and encouraging flyways’ around the temple. Apply texture spray to the root area for extra grip. Crown the hair with a thick velvet ribbon, approximately a foot in length; wrap over the head and behind the ears, under the ponytail, crisscross and bring back over the elastic and tie into an abstract bow. Cut ribbon-ends to a V shape.

T3 BodyWaver 1.75" Professional Curling Iron, $200

Cushnie et Ochs

The best way to open up the face? Curl hair in sections from the crown to the nape of the head. Then switch to a smaller curling iron and take hair on each side of the temple and wrap hair outwards around the barrel.

Alexander Wang

Moroccanoil Treatment, $47/100ml



Sephora Collection Velvet Eyeshadow, $19.

COLOURFUL Johnathan Simkhai


Alice + Olivia

Dark nails for fall are almost as certain as dipping temperatures and raking leaves. What’s different this season is the bluish-grey hue. That means you have even more choice to play with colour from gunmetal to charcoal through sapphire. Just remember to keep nails short apply two coats of your favourite colour and once dry apply a shiny topcoat. 24

| FALL 2017 |


Take a cue from David Bowie with a swipe of intense colour over your eyelid. To get this punk rock look begin with a bare face (and don’t apply moisturizer). Then apply an eyeshadow base to get rid of any oils or discoloration. Use a piece to tape to create a sharp flick for an elongated cat-eye and another piece along the center of the lid to create a harsh edge. Fill in eyelid with a bright colour. For an even easier look just apply the eyeshadow in an arc over the eyelid.


Phllip Lim

Feminine & FLORAL

Strong& SEXY This is a sophisticated floral evolution of the signature Bottega Veneta eau de parfum (released in 2011). The fragrance highlights the roots of the brand in North East Italy with a top note of bergamot, leather chypre, pink peppercorn and velvety rose petal add depth. Bottega Veneta Eau de Velours (2.5oz), $155.

Inspired by the boho fluidity and free spirited woman he designs for, Gucci head designer Alessandro Michele’s latest fragrance is also a metaphor for the evolving woman “in bloom.” Indian tuberose and jasmine are at the forefront of the scent, with Rangoon creeper rounding out the powdery, feminine floral notes. Gucci Bloom, Eau de Par fum (3.3oz), $124.

Energetic & SENSUAL

FALL’S FRESH SCENTS The latest ‘it’ fragrances prove that the modern woman is diverse, feminine and strong!

Light & FRUITY

The glass bottle embossed with signature horse and carriage reveals a fragrance that is bright with sparkling raspberry creamy with Turkish rose and sensual with suede musk. Coach New York Eau de Parfum ( 1 oz.).

A lighter approach than the original Decadence, this new iteration is highlights juicy fruits (nashi pear, black currant) and feminine florals (magnolia, jasmine, lily of the valley), perfect for day or night. Marc Jacobs Decadence Eau So Decadent Eau de Toilette (3.4oz), $112.

C SL GR EEN TIPS Make an at-home steam facial by adding herbs (mint, lavender, thyme) to boiling water. Place in a bowl and lean head covered with a towel over the bowl. ›› | FALL 2017 | 25

Subtle GLITZ Celebrate cosmetics this season! From makeup to nails, create a look that will turn heads. The only thing you need to bring to is attitude.


| FALL 2017 |

ON THE RUNWAY The Blonds portrayed a street style vixen with a nod to the 20s. To mirror the ripped jeans, pearls and lace on the catwalk, CND transformed nails to resemble tiger eye stones studded with gold. GET THE LOOK Try brown mascara – it’s a softer alternative to black. Smoky brown eyeshadow also looks fresher. For eyes create an accentuated cat eye more like a swath of colour. Do matchy-matchy nails, lips and cheeks in the same tones for that retro look. On nails try a shimmery base coat and outline the tip of the nail and inner edges in a metallic colour. Apply individual stones to the area between the two colours.


TOOLKIT Benefit Cosmetics They’re Real! Lengthening & Volumizing Mascara, $31. Bobbi Brown Eye Shadow, $29. Ciaté London Mini Paint Pot Nail Polish and Effects, $40.50. CND Shellac Power Polish,

ON THE RUNWAY Inspired by Imperial China, Marchesa played


up eyes and cheeks with makeup in soft pink hues. To contrast the girliness of the makeup, the nails were kept short and painted dark grey. GET THE LOOK The key to this look is flawless skin. Begin by preparing skin with a creamy, moisturizing foundation. Add concelear to under eye circles. Apply an all-in-one blush-lipstick in pink. To keep the look from being too sickly, choose an eyeshadow a few shades lighter. Set off the pixie face with dark, daring nails.

TOOLKIT Yves Saint Laurent Baby Doll Kiss & Blush Duo Stick, $40. Hourglass Immaculate Liquid Powder Foundation Mattifying Oil Free, $68. Givenchy Ombre Couture Cream Eyeshadow, $30. Essie winning streak, | FALL 2017 | 27



This Season’s It PRODUCTS products CSL loves, and you should try too







5 6 3 4

This natural sea sponge is soft and lathers up well. When not in use it makes a beautiful addition to bathroom décor. Tofino Soap Company Sustainably Har vested Natural Sea Sponge, $13;



From the contours of the bottle to the stylized logo, Oribe takes its looks and your locks seriously. Integrating ingredients such as lychee and watermelon to preserve moisture, it is gentle enough to use everyday. Oribe S ignature S hampoo, 250 ml;

| FALL 2017 |


An unusual find – this castile soap is enrobed in baked clay. It resembles a flat, spherical brick and gently exfoliates when lightly wet. Incorporating the renowned Grasse perfume, this French-made product is excellent for rough spots like elbows and knees. We believe in miracles! Bella Vita Miracle Soap in Citrus, 120g;


Open this jar and the overwhelming and comforting smell of cocoa butter (think chocolate) let’s you know that something good is in store. Produced by farmers in Ghana, this balm includes shea butter and moringa, derived from a plant whose leaves, stems, seeds and fruit are eaten around the world. High in vitamin C and made with only natural ingredients – it’s truly nice! True Moringa Universal Cure Balm, 40g;


For centuries clay was used to purify skin. This bamboo sheet mask takes this ancient beauty regimen to the next level by infusing it with sea mud, clay, juniper and lavender. Now that’s a way to get skin that’s clear as mud. My Ear th Kiss Million Year Clay Facial;


Unlike most commercial perfume, made from synthetic compounds, this roll-on perfume combines a variety of essential oils including top notes of bergamot, and chamomile, middle note of ylang ylang and base note of cedarwood. Before bed, apply to pulse points for a relaxed feeling. HollyBeth Organics Flourish Calming Per fume, 15 ml;





INDIGENA blueberry bliss Sugar Scrub This Newfoundland-based beauty company gives a starring role to botanicals from land and sea. Indeed, this scrub is good enough to eat – seriously! Made with 5 natural ingredients including wild blueberry seeds (native to the area), it has a beautiful orange smell and contains exfoliating and moisturizing ingredients. 100ml;

Applied all over your body, with a softly massaging circular motion these scrubs will give you hydrated, smooth skin and a glowing  complexion. by K&S MEDIA

HOLLybETH ORGANICS Grits and Honey Scrub Tulepo honey? Check. Almond oil? Check. Corneal? Check. Wait – cornmeal? yes, this scrub harnesses Southern culinary fave and gentle exfoliant grits. Handmade in small batches according to a family recipe, it’s a simple but effective 4 ingredient scrub. 59ml;

ÉMINENCE pear and poppy Seed Microderm polish Dry, flaky skin easily succumbs to the antioxidant power of apples and pears and vitamin brich walnuts contained in this jade polish. Just add water, tea or juice to the mix. 60ml;


pANGEA ORGANICS body polish brazilian brown Sugar with Cocoa butter Lavender, thyme and grapefruit essential oils lend a refreshing scent to the mix. brown sugar granules gently slough off dead skin cells. 226g; | FALL 2017 | 29


BRING ON FALL Straight from the runway, CSL’s guide to the best and biggest fall fashion trends.


| FALL 2017 |



FALL STYLE GU IDE CSL breaks down the top trends, and shows you how to easily update your closet






D SquARED F/W 2018

DISCO THIS IS NOT! The heyday of Wonder Woman, flared legs and platforms, gets a modern update. Mixing pattern from head to toe, a kaleidoscopic colour palette and effortless hair and makeup is where this trend is rooted.

pRAbALGuRuNG 2018

PART FLAPPER, PART RAZZLE DAZZLE AND ALL AROUND FEMME FATALE Part flapper, part razzledazzle and all around femme fatale, fringe was applied to body grazing fabrics and hem lengths adorning the bodice, sleeves and maxi dresses.





ADD INSTANT GLAMOUR WITH A SHINY PALETTE GREAT FOR DAY AND NIGHT Get in touch with your inner bombshell, gilded frocks in differing shades of warm yellow, gold, to icy platinum are the perfect go-to. | FALL 2017 | 31


| FALL 2017 |


POWER DRESSING Several designers presented the power suit 2.0 – tailored, understated, elegant. Glam it up with oversized accessories. Just keep everything else simple.





WITH DOZENS OF VARIATIONS ON THIS CLASSIC PRINT, THIS FALL FAVOURITE IS VERSATILE AND ANY THING-BUTBORING From window pane geometric plaid to gingham and colourful tartan just about every variation was seen on the runway. Wear a plaid blazer with jeans, or pair a fair isle sweater with a midi length plaid skirt.

D SquARED 2 F/W/ 2018



THE CURVE ENHANCING, ULTRA-FEMININE SILHOUETTE IS HERE TO STAY From long sleeve full maxi, to multi-tiered frou-frou, edgy leather styles to sweater, wrap and even the humble denim dress, there is a style suitable for every body type, taste and occasion.



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D SquARED 2 F/W 2018







CHANEL F/W/ 2018






LUXURIOUS, RICH AND SEEN ON NEARLY EVERY RUNWAY – VELVET IS THE TEXTURE OF THE SEASON Designers updated this here-to-stay trend by reinterpreting velvet for every day- think tank tops, casual dresses and wide leg pants.

HEAVY METAL BANDS, PERMED HAIR AND SHOULDER PADS — THEY’RE BACK! Going full steam ahead, this season’s rehashing of 1980s fashion unapologetically celebrated puffy sleeves, head to toe power suits, peplum, and enormous bows.

RISE AND SHINE, MEET GOLD’S OTHER HALF As a foil (no pun intended) to the other metallic trend of this season, silver has seldom been seen in such abundance. This wearwith-everything tone was shown in bags, hair pieces, shoes, outerwear and clothing. | FALL 2017 | 33


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THIS IS A COLOUR THAT GETS YOU NOTICED True red is not for the faint-hearted, make a bold statement wearing this fiery colour. Be warned—heads are sure to turn!


THINK DARK TERRA COTTA WITH YELLOW UNDERTONES Think dark terra cotta with yellow undertones. Great for olive skintones, and even redheads, this approachable tone is perfect for the office.


EGGPLANT BY ANOTHER NAME The darkest in the red tone family, this black approximation has a slimming effect on the body and is the easiest to approach for colour-phobes.






DRINK IT UP! As with the famous French region, the sumptuous richness of this shade is best suited for formal occasions in fabrics like velvet, chiffon and silk.









CLEAN SLATE Wearing white after Labour Day no longer breaks the rules. The key? Wear it head-totoe mixing textures, accessories and shades ranging from cream to stark arctic white.

pRAbAL GuRuNG F/W 2018


A GREY TINGED BLUE THAT CAN BE WORN BY ANYONE This approachable colour shown in colour variations (iridescent jewel tones) and fabrications (think cozy knits) makes its debut.





TAKE A CUE FROM THE GREAT OUTDOORS Inspired by rejuvenation, revitalization, and reconnection with nature, Pantone’s latest colour of the year is symbolic of new beginnings. Think of this season’s shade as more of a neutral than a bold statement, allowing a versatility that can then be paired with brights, deeper shades, pastels, and metallics.



pRAbAL GuRuNG F/W 2018




EDITORS PICKS Update Your Closet: Check Mate



Ganni Charron Dress;



Americana meets 1970s boho. Mix textures and pattern with fun accessories.


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Furla Metropolis;

Sigerson Morrison Eartha bootie, $395;


Lack of Colour AuS Spencer noir $69;

VELVET CRUSHIN’ These plush kicks feel regal and instantly make a statement.

NO 21 Velvet Knotted Flat Sandal, Rosa; $575; LOEFFLER RANDALL Coco Knotted Velvet Slide Sandal, $395;

“These beauties are available in pumps,


mules, and slides so that you can wear them to the office, or for special events. Pretty details like bows and knots really make a statement. ”

- SHIVANA MAHARAJ, fashion editor

PRADA Velvet 85mm block-Heel pump; $630;

NEW CLASSIC bright pink adds a hint of difference to the wellknown quilted stitching and round link chain typical of Chanel. The shape too hints at the contours of a cellphone. Classic Coco meets the 21st century.


TOQUE Don’t over think this one – just grab a toque with bold graphics which will warm ears and still look rockin’ with jeans and a sweater.


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UNIQUE Remember the lunchbox you had as a kid? It has made its way to accessory fave by echoing the kitsch of a bygone era.

FRENCH TWIST Think asymmetrical beret in cool grey leather and you have a hat that’s perfect with a velvet suit or pleated skirt.



ETHNIC Translate ethnic textile patterns to leather and you get a vibrant, colourful purse that will brighten any outfit.


Anteprima PUMP IT UP pumps with colour block detail make it easy to pair with a multitude of outfits. plus, a buckle closure and vintage style give it oomph.


EwaMinge GRUNGE REDUX A cross between Dr Martens and psychedelic 70s sequin platforms these shoes were made to make a statement.

SADDLE UP A crossbody saddle bag references the autumnal equestrian tradition. Emphasize the season with a bag in cocoa instead of the normal black, grey or white.

CAP IT OFF An exaggerated baseball cap in knitted wool is perfect for making a blazer and jeans look uber cool and casual.


Fall’s must-haves include rich textures, unusual shapes and unexpected colours to make you excited to experiment.


Accessories Report

Hats DSquared2

VINTAGE These are not the fluffy, multicoloured tassels plastered on Instagram but a sophisticated take that would not look amiss on Marlene Dietrich in Shanghai Express.





SO NOW Winking at the classic millinery of Coco’s day, this flat brimmed hat sports a ribbon and brooch clasp but the colour is so now.


Travel Island LIFE

Swaying palm trees, beautiful crystal water, lush mountains? Who could ask for more from a friendly tropical paradise? CSL takes you to the Cook Islands. p. 42 | FALL 2017 | 39



Relax  @  LAx L I T E W E I GH T

Debuting its first Cambria brand hotel in California, Cambria Choice Hotels opens C LAx , conveniently located a short distance from Los Angeles International Airport.   The 152-room property, opened in May 2017, is well-suited for the modern traveller. Equally close to Manhattan Beach (watch the sunset) and the airport (LAX is a hub for many international flights). With tones of cyan, gold and grey, and geometric pendant lighting, the hotel lobby feels open, airy and inviting, and rooms continue with this simple, urban vibe. Techies will love innovations like mirrors with built-in bluetooth speakers. Visit the hotels on-site restaurant (with accompanying bar) and try creative dishes like the roasted cauliflower with jalapeno #CANADA150

What to look in your luggage for when flying

hummus, South Bay Fish Tacos, and steak sate. The hotel also features a fitness centre and boasts an outdoor space with fire pit, and cabanas by the pool.

Rethink plastic/ shell casing.  yes, they look pretty but nylon and polyester or fabric luggage applies consistent pressure to all points around the suitcase, unlike plastic which can put too much stress on zippers (think clothes spewed on the carousel) and show scratches and dents.  CSL tested the Swiss Gear Light Flyer collection 24" expandable luggage, which was large enough to hold enough clothing for a two week trip to Europe, a bottle of water and several pairs of shoes yet light enough to lift without extra assistance.  The "Spin 360°" 4 wheels made it a breeze to stroll effortlessly in the International airport.  As a security precaution, always secure luggage with a TSA approved lock.   Swiss Gear Light Flyer Collection 24" Expandable Luggage, and Austin House Travel Sentry Key Padlock;

ROAD TRIP Dempster Highway, Canada If you’re looking for another drive of comparable magnitude and challenge, Canada’s Dempster Hwy fits the bill. This hard-packed, gravel road branches off the North Klondike Hwy near Dawson City, Yukon, and swings north through pristine wilderness for 457 miles (736km) before ending in Inuvik, the northernmost town of any size in Canada’s Northwest Territories, way beyond the Arctic Circle. From 2018, it should be possible to drive all the way to Tuktoyaktuk, a tiny settlement on the shores of the Arctic Ocean, 75 miles (120km) north of Inuvik. It’s a gorgeous, lonely drive that passes through dense forest (you may spot grizzly bears), past snowtipped mountains and finally through vast expanses of flat tundra. There are two tiny settlements near Inuvik – Fort McPherson and Tsiigehtchic, where you have to take a car ferry. START Dawson City END Inuvik DISTANCE 457 miles (736km) TOP TIP Rent a 4WD, take two spare tyres, and fill up on petrol. Bring emergency supplies in case you break down as there is practically no phone reception here. Reproduced with permission from Lonely Planet’s Epic Drives of the World, © 2017 Lonely Planet

CSL GREE N TIPS Route your trip through eco-friendly airports. / Borrow your hotel’s bikes. / Before hiking, scrub your shoes to avoid contaminating the soil. ›› 40

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tour guide with

The Orange County, California native and actress with a huge social media following can next be seen as a lead opposite Denise Richards in blackpills’ A Girl Is A Gun, an upcoming feature that  follows three women living in Los Angeles who go missing, creating wave of panic in the city.


Tell us a little about your career path.

I began my career in radio. From there I started hosting different events, red carpets, and then I got a cameo in the film Snake and Mongoose. From that moment on I knew I wanted acting as my career.

What are some of your favourite projects that you have worked on? Why?

MOST MEMORAbLE TRAVEL MOMENT.  Riding an elephant in bangkok.

I’ve had a few, but one of the best experiences hands down was when I got the role in the film called Ay Luv Yu Tuu. The shoot was in Turkey for two months. It was one of the most enriching experiences I’ve ever had. I mean, I got to do what I love (acting), while being able to explore a country I’ve never been to and immerse myself in their culture.

Tell us about your charitable endeavors and why it is important to give back. I’m a part of the Best Friends Animal Society of Los Angeles, which is an adoption service for animals. I have a dog called Kodi, and am always encouraging adoption!

Favourite city to travel to, why?

Amsterdam. It has so much to offer, and is so laid back and fun. It offers so many teaching opportunities like museums and historical landmarks. Plus, I got to explore the entire city on a bike!

What are you currently day dreaming about?

Getting the opportunity to land another role in a movie filmed in a different country.

Nikki Leigh on vacation.

WHAT THREE ITEMS ARE ALWAyS IN yOuR LuGGAGE? Sweatpants (because I love them), a book or a journal, and a face mask.

“Love yourself and don’t take things personally.” NIKKI’S MUST-HAVES

1. When I am not working I am... Traveling.

2. 3 of the most played songs on my iPod are… Recently, my top 3 most played songs have been Despacito by Luis Fonsi featuring Justin bieber, This year by Christina Aguilera (yes, I listen to Christmas music year round!) and Waiting Game by banks. 3. I can't live without... My dog, Kodi the stud!

FAVORITE HOTEL IN THE WORLD, WHy? Oh, that’s hard because there are so many beautiful hotels out there that I have yet to experience! One that I really enjoyed was in Mykonos called Cavotagoo. | FALL 2017 | 41

Escape to e Cook Islands Stellar lagoons, coconut palms swaying in the breeze, this little-known string of 15 islands is a paradise for honeymooners, sun-seekers and solitude-loving travellers. is is the South Pacific conjured in the imagination of novelists and screenwriters. Kailash Maharaj discovers a playground of sun, sand and sea and plenty more beneath the surface. pHOTOGRApHy by K&S MEDIA HOTEL REVIEWS by SHIVANA MAHARAJ

Clockwise from top: Fresh tropical produce from a local garden; A young performer at Highland Paradise Cultural Centre welcomes guests; a vanilla blossom; the exterior of Cook Islands Christian Church at Avarua.


ISTILLED EFFERVESCENCE STREWN IN A PURPLE haze across the night sky engulfs the view from my airplane window. Seldom has the Milky Way looked so close, so defined – as if, through it, I could unravel the secrets of ancient Polynesians who used stars, bird migration patterns and swells to navigate the seas below. I am sitting in a 12-seater vintage Air Rarotonga plane, the engine roaring, travelling from Aitutaki to Rarotonga. Two of the most visited of the Cook Islands, these volcanic beauties form part of the 15-island chain. Draw a line from Hawaii to New Zealand and near the middle you’ll hit the Cook Islands. Spread out over 2.25 million sq km of the Pacific, all the land mass equals just 240 sq km with a population of a mere 13 000. Io Tangaroa from the Marquesas first settled here, until two chiefs from Tahiti and Samoa respectively, conquered the island and divided it into 6 tribes, each led by an ariki (chief). By the 19th century, Cook Islanders converted to Christianity and in 1888 all of its chiefs agreed to become a British protectorate. Later it became a protectorate of New Zealand, until 1965 when nationhood was realized. Admittedly, the South Pacific is a region given to topographical melodrama, occupying a special place in the modern collective unconscious as the stuff of daydreams, even fantasies. The Cook Islands are no different. A coral reef surrounds Rarotonga, the largest of the islands, protecting its brilliant white sand beaches from breakers, spray spouting gloriously into the air. Circular in shape, the pounding ocean echoes from every corner of this atoll.

From top row: Rito Cook Islands owners and founders Robert and Susan Wyllie produce a range of cold pressed coconut oil products including a skincare line; freshly husked coconut ready for grating; the sacred marae on the grounds at Highland Paradise Cultural Centre; one of the abundant hibiscus flowers on Rarotonga; fragrant plumeria flowers in a bowl are reminiscent and redolent of the island; kayaks lined up on a beach; dancers gesticulate their hips for the ‘ura, a traditional dance of the Cook Islands at Te Vara Nui; a beautiful Cook Island ukulele; the lively crew aboard The Vaka Cruise in Aitutaki; a delicious crème brulee at SilverSands restaurant at Muri Beach Club Hotel; James Puati co-founder of Matutu Brewery outside of the brewhouse and headquarters; delicious pastries abound at popular LBV in Muri Beach.


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Along the coast lie the main settlements, including the capital, Avarua. Sitting on a northern bay, it is refreshingly, little more than a few government buildings, shops, restaurants, and a port. Inland, an old Polynesian coral road, long since paved, crosses farms that give way eventually to the mountains and wild interior. It is the sort of place so diametrically opposite the sometimes stultifying landscape of a city that within minutes you forget the rest of the world exists. Who needs skyscrapers, anyway? Eyes instead become accustomed to lush jade peaks, one singularly crinkle cut, rising up like a phalanx to challenge the sky. Everywhere there are coconut trees, and when there are no more it is because the blue lagoon sheltering palm-covered motu (uninhabited islets) comes into view. Exploring its waters by kayak or snorkel reveals kaleidoscopic fish, tons of rori (sea cucumber) camouflaging near blue starfish, while giant purple clamshells protrude from unexpected nooks. The shoreline meanwhile is littered with cowrie shells and expired coral. At dusk, and when the tide is out, sky is reflected in scant water so that for a few hours, heaven and earth are one. Days are marked not by linear chronology but by the twinkle of island time which elongates and elevates simple moments. ‘Ei haku (tiara made of leaves, herbs and flowers) are worn in tresses even as women peruse grocery aisles, conversations of substance are carried on astride scooters, the graves of ancestors are proudly displayed in front yards and kia orana, meaning may you live long, is the oft repeated greeting that welcomes you everywhere. It is a place to slow down, to reacclimatize to forgotten rhythms. Tourists inevitably begin to follow island time sitting in contemplation before Tuoro (Black Rock), reluctantly accommodating the crows of roosters at all hours of the day and night, taking the local bus in one of two routes, clockwise or anti-clockwise, and befriending the ubiquitous dogs that need no introduction to follow you around as if you were their owner. Rarotonga is small enough that in the span of days, faces become recognizable (“oh yes that is the student in the newspaper this morning,” “that is the waiter from last evening”), and because of the code of friendliness, they will hail out to you. Despite its size, it is also a place where having a beach to yourself is practically assured, even in peak season. Central to life is the church. One Sunday, Titikaveka’s Cook Island Christian church is hosting a gathering of ministers and dignitaries from all over the Cook Islands, 46

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Australia and New Zealand. This inaugural ceremony kicks off a week of celebrations at churches around the island. Police have placed traffic cones to block off sections of the main road and there are people scattered around the perimeter – Brownies and Girl Guides, kids who play in the marching band, their instruments dwarfing them, and women wearing rito hats studded with a black pearl. Others sit on gravestones in the shade while still more perch on coral walls. Everyone is wearing white. Peeking inside through stained glass windows, a rousing hymn sung in Cook Island maori bellowed by tenors and sopranos fills the air. The words in English and maori are projected on the walls. As if on cue, an older lady leaves her pew to scold a petulant toddler whose curiosity had led him outside. Across the street, those preparing food are busily arranging tables. Cornelia comes

“Days are marked not by linear chronology but by the twinkle of island time which elongates and elevates simple moments. “ up to me while I dig in my bag, “what are you look for?” she inquires. We spend a few minutes playing hand clapping games that I recall from my childhood before she disappears. Free, happy, unafraid or unaware of the thwarts of life, her spirit is the essence of the islands. When the service ends, and grace said, visitors and locals alike are called to feast. Again and again, I am urged to eat, and if I am spotted, even for a moment without a plate in hand, Mamas and Papas inquire with concern. The day is imprinted upon my heart in all its delicious sunshine. It is the way it ever was in the Cook Islands. In ancient times people lived communally. Apparently, there never was a word for thank you because everything was shared (maietake, is a modern linguistic adaptation). Even today a significant part of the economy is based on remittances from those who left “for healthcare, jobs and education,” as a taxi driver tells me. All Cook Islanders have New Zealand passports conferring an ease of mobility. The free association with that country ensures that certain standards, like a regular supply of medicine for the hospital, are met. Many retain homes and property on the islands while

escaping the high cost of living with better paying stints abroad, primarily in New Zealand or Australia. During the 50s and 60s, an accelerated migration took place, and depopulation has led to foreigners (mainly Fijians, and Filipinos) brought in to help work. Everyone knows everyone and this is reinforced by extended familial relationships and tribal ties. It becomes a delicate act of diplomacy to navigate relations and long memories. “People knew my father and so they judge me that way,” laments one returning islander. Cook Islanders mostly, though, take life in stride, with a relaxed nonchalance. No horns blown, or cross words exchanged when I find myself on the wrong side of a one-way road. At Avana harbour instant friendships are made with locals and their children out fishing for the day. The whole island feels like Hawaii must have decades ago, and the inescapable but persistent thought is that I'd come back here in a heartbeat.

unanga Nui Market is a Saturday morning tradition. A constellation of vendors sell everything from nu (green coconut), quilts and pareu (sarongs), to black pearls from Manihiki, poke (bananas and arrowroot in coconut), prepared food, and smoothies. Near midday a dance performance takes place on the main stage and includes tots in grass skirts made from wild hibiscus bleached in the ocean and cute coconut bra tops. The MC inserts a joke about Auckland being the sixteenth island in the nation – it is a playful wink to ancient history. Cook Islanders are keen to remind the Maori of New Zealand of their origin. “We stopped off here. They moved on,” says a retired teacher of the relationship, "but they came from here." Indeed, it was from the teal waters of Avana harbour that 7 canoes left for antipodean shores and where the first settlers from the Pacific arrived. Returning to the island is as much a ritual as leaving it, even a generation or two later. For many, this means setting up a local business. On a quiet road near the popular resort-village of Muri is Matutu Brewing Company. Owners James Puati, his wife Debi Futter, and their partners Eric and Nadine Newnham have ancestral ties to the island and built the brewery on family land. Leveraging the experience of Futter's relative in Wellington, New Zealand who owns a brewery, they established a plant here to capitalize on the craft beer craze locally. Eleven years later, Matutu produces fresh


Clockwise from top: frolicking through a papaya patch on Rarotonga; a spectacular tangerine hued sunset; fresh ika mata (fish cured in coconut milk and lime juice) is served in a coconut shell at Little Polynesian Resort; legendary Polynesian dancer and the inspiration for Te Vara Nui Cultural Village, Vara Hunter.

“Everywhere there are coconut trees, and when there are no more it is because the blue lagoon sheltering palm-covered motu (uninhabited islets) comes into view. “ beer each day including their 2 flagships, Mai Lager and Kiva Pale Ale, as well as specialty and seasonal beers. All sold on site (and through tours), at liquor stores and restaurants. “Matutu means physical strength, for us it means resilience, to keep going — because of the cost of producing the beer, importing ingredients, and the negative connotatio alcohol has here — there was opposition to what we're doing,” says Puati. To counter this, they adopted beer names that would roll off the tongues of visitors, and consulted designers, painters, and carvers for their label design which sports stylized Polynesian turtle shells, sea birds and legendary fighting brothers. The result is an appealing product line firmly rooted in Cook Islands tradition. Nearby, Rito Coconut Oil began just as cold pressed coconut oil was becoming popular among tourists (who wanted it as a unique memento of the island), and locals (who wanted it for cooking). Established six years ago, Rito draws on the healing, nourishing and cosmetic properties of coconuts, long recognized by Polynesians. Owners Robert and Susan Wyllie were born in the same hospital in New Zealand and moved to her father’s native Cook Islands eleven years ago. Within a few minutes of meeting, Robert is rattling off intricate fine dining recipes for each of his culinary oils which include lime, and chili. Steps away, ylang, ylang, habanero and banana grow wild, some of which find their way into the infused oils and cosmetics. Inspired by memories of Susan's grandmother making scented oil by drying coconut gratings on corrugated metal and letting the oil run into flowers, Rito offers beautifully packaged bespoke skincare products, tamanu oil (good for taking the itch out of mosquito bites), soap and culinary oils. Akari (brown, dried coconuts) are husked and grated, then placed on a drying table where approximately forty per cent of the moisture content is removed. “The way it moves, the sound, and years of experience tells you that it is ready,” advises Robert. From there the coconut is cold pressed. Leftover husks are used for firing umu (underground oven), and the leftover disks of dehydrated coconut gratings are fed to animals or used in the company's cosmetics. “We had a different name before and we each went in different directions talking to people, researching and when we came back together we both had same name. Rito is sacking

From top row: hand delivered breakfast by the pool at Aitutaki Escape; local girls wear white dresses and hats to attend church on Sunday; ‘ei haku made with fresh flowers on sale at the Punanga Nui Cultural market; a traditional vaka (boat) sits in the water at Avana harbour; fresh vanilla beans drying in the sun from Fram Koteka; an aerial view of Aitutaki’s beauty; Fresh noni for sale the fruit is believed to help with various ailments; ‘Casanova’ aka Aki aboard The Vaka Cruise in Aitutaki; coconut candy from Aunty Pat’s roadside stall; kikau (coconut frond) weaving dries out in the sun; an idyllic beach on Rarotonga; beautifully presented fare at Rapae Bay restaurant at Pacific Resort Aitutaki. | FALL 2017 | 49

material from weaving in Cook Island Maori, it is the sauce or essence of something," says Robert. "If you had told me 10 years ago I would be waking up at 6 am looking at ingredients for our eye cream I would not have believed it, but I am excited to do it." Muri is the only place on the island where anything resembling a crowd gathers. Several evenings a week the Muri night market offers a food-truck atmosphere with patrons lining up to try ice cream, noodles, skewered meat and much more. On mornings, scrumptious pastries that would not look out of place in New York are set out in immaculate glass cases at LBV (Le Bon Vivant). The local cafe has a hip vibe, clean logo and local status (chef and coowner, Tim Tierney also consults with a hotel group). Farther down the road on a decorated turn-off, Maire Nui Botanical Gardens is a labyrinth of palms, flowers, trees and vegetables, its organic cafe draws those looking for casual fare beside stellar tropical vignettes. For a relaxing massage, I head to Muri Beach Club Hotel before dinner at the resort’s SilverSands Restaurant and Bar. A salad presented in an ice conch shell followed by Maui’s trio from the sea emphasizes the tropical, seaside location. Circumambulating the island, nearly always at sea level, presents the challenge of finding elevated vantage points to gaze upon all its panoramic beauty. Mostly accessible only by hiking its peaks, or being invited to a local home, Highland Paradise Cultural Centre is a convenient exception. An allée of palms leads to a plateau that looks upon the valley below and in the distance, the ocean. From high, Rarotonga's contours become stark making you appreciate them more. An equatorial breeze rustles through fronds, a contrast to the powerful stillness. Highland Paradise is the site of a marae (ancient ceremonial stone terrace), forgotten until it was resurrected by determined descendants of its founding tribe. Today, cultural performances, dances and educational tours take place on its grounds. At twilight a performer takes the group out near the marae and explains the phases of the coconut, how every part of it is useful, its stages of transformation baffling tourists. When we return indoors for dinner there is a selection of local foods including kuru (breadfruit), rukau (taro leaves cooked in coocnut milk), ika mata (raw fish marinated in coconut and lime) and arrowroot. The dance performance is without pretense or flash, it feels like an authentic expression of the ever enduring cadence of these islands. Indeed, the central cultural element is the dance (and its accompanying music). “It 50

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is all about the legs and knees,” says Vara Hunter, who founded Air Rarotonga, was pursued by Marlon Brando, and is a luminary of Polynesian dance, having toured the world in her youth. “Once you master that you have no problems.” Hunter is also the inspiration for Te Vara Nui, an educational, cultural, dance, and food extravaganza. Regularly spotted on site, the sprightly septuagenarian delights in meeting people, though her children urge her to slow down. Created by Hunter’s daughter Moana and son-in-law Fodil Nayer, the main stage is anchored in a pond filled with lotus flowers and trees. Te Vara Nui tells the story of the warrior Tongaiti whose sea exploits led him to the shores of Rarotonga where he was confronted by hostile tribes. In an effort to appease them he sends his daughter to dance for

e whole point of the Cook Islands is to create an aura of pleasure. If Rarotonga captures the imagination in scenes of relaxed beauty then Aitutaki invades the soul at first glance. the Chief, who, captivated by her charms, eventually welcomes the family ashore. More authentic than the exaggerated, fluid and balletic movements of Hawaii, the dance mirrors the staccato of the pātē (drum). How could it not impel hips to sway and arms to glide? A few days later, driving past a school, the same sound reverberates – ra-tap-tap-tap, ra-tap-tap-tap – the children are practicing. It is a sound that homesick Cook Islanders probably hear in their dreams. The whole point of the Cook Islands is to create an aura of pleasure. If Rarotonga captures the imagination in scenes of relaxed beauty then Aitutaki invades the soul at first glance. Legend has it that the peak of Ra Mareu in Rarotonga was brought to the island — as if the crowning glory could only belong here. Aitutaki lagoon is dotted by 15 motu, starlets in an azure sea, and from the air it elicits audible gasps from visitors. For Rarotongans, Aitutaki is how life used to be. Many prefer its quietness to the (if you can believe it) hustle bustle, traffic and number of people on Rarotonga.

Decades ago, the Americans and Kiwis built an airport here, and flying boats from TEAL airways traversing the Coral Route used Aitutaki as a stopover. Hollywood stars frequented the island and its name conjured glitz and glamour. A dinner at Rapae Bay Restaurant at Pacific Resort Aitutaki overlooking the water recaptures those bygone days. Cocktails beneath a beachside thatch hut are followed by a parade of inventive dishes like sumac prawns (a nod to the Middle East), a strong seafood showing with pan seared scallops with maniota mash and classics like crayfish bisque. Drive Aitutaki's length and breadth, though, and its rural core becomes evident: farms of taro and fruit, palms drying in front lawns, crab scurrying on unpaved roads near the seashore, Artutanga the site of the first church built in the Cook Islands and secret bays where lone fishermen cast nets into the ocean. Mostly, it is silent expect for a gust of wind, an errant bird or a tractor. One more plane ride means far less visitors. Conversations are immediately profound like that with a young attendant about the entire order of local food created to cope with natural disasters, hidden underground until the storm passes, or the local hotel manager citing warming oceans as the reason the traditional fishing calendar was no longer correct. It is overcast when day-trippers and a few resident guests board the double hulled vessel, Titi-ai-Tonga, with the Vaka Cruise. Grey skies turn to showers part way through and the lagoon like a star actress in her sunset years is still gorgeous but obscured. On the bow a rainbow appears and all the passengers turn their heads. Nearly everyone will see a sun-filled lagoon, but how many a rainbow? A crew of locals entertains — alternating between coconut grating, pareu tying and ukulele playing accompanied by song. A delightful lunch with fish, root vegetables and uto (cleverly called Polynesian marshmallow, it is the sprouted coconut meat) is served as we anchor near One Foot Island (Tapuaetai). After snorkelling and seeing giant trevally and electric blue clams upclose, there is but one wish — that the day should never end. Things here, like everywhere, though, are in constant flux, and nothing lasts forever. Perhaps because of the recurring threat of a cyclone, or the fact that these islands are the first to experience global climate change, or the coming and going of islanders, or because I meet a series of widows adjusting to a new life thrust upon them, impermanence is more acutely felt here. We are, after all, but stardust.

HOTEL GuIDE Rarotonga

Clockwise from top: a plentiful seafood spread from Island Platters; A hammock overlooks stunning Muri Lagoon; Sunset is a assault on the senses; The lavish villa is a luxurious escape; The comfortable four poster bed overlooks the ocean.

Rumours Luxury Villas and Spa FOR THE LUXE TRAVELLER

About A small reinforced stone wall path, delicately laced with bright pink bougainvillea and tropical greenery, leads to the adults-only boutique property. Management owners Belinda and Andrew Griffin, who hail from Australia, are typically on hand to assist and welcome guests. Private and luxurious, without pretense or stuffiness, the property sits on Muri lagoon.

an indoor 3-foot waterfall feature that trickles with calm. A lavish living space, complete with a canopy day bed gives way to large retractable glass doors that lead to a second expansive patio with breathtaking views of the impossibly turquoise lagoon and ocean beyond. Elegant four poster beds overlook the ocean, and showpiece bathrooms with domed glass ceiling and circular shower with river stone floors enhance the elements of nature.

Room/ Villa Given Rarotonga's startling scenery, it is no surprise that my Platinum Beachfront Villa is dramatic even from the entrance - met with the sound of water from a natural rock waterfall flowing into the private pool. Crossing a curved bridge reveals a luscious garden bursting with vibrant flora on either side and a large deck which calls out for an afternoon barbeque. The element of water continues as I enter the two-bedroom thatched roof villa, with

Amenities There is plenty to be spoiled with, from breakfast delivered each morning to my villa, to the gift basket with tasty snacks and treats, and flowers and champagne upon arrival. Award winning Waterfall spa, located adjacent to the property boasts an array of treatments and is consistently rated among the top in the Cook Islands. Special touches like the Italian espresso maker in the fully-equipped kitchen, kayaks and snorkelling equipment avail-

able for use during my stay and VIP return airport transfers ensure that active, adventurous guests are catered for but so too those who prefer utter relaxation. On an overcast afternoon, I order the seafood option from Island Platters (the resort has an affiliation), which is delivered straight to my villa. Laden with a massive selection that includes mussels, mahi mahi, prawns and tuna, it is more than enough to feed a crowd and beckons to be devoured. What CSL liked Best Laying in my private hammock on the outdoor patio, I gaze as the ocean's colours continually evolve by the hour. The waxing and waning tides of Muri lagoon at sunset reveal the most dramatic mirror-like glaze transposed from the cotton candy sky onto the ocean, making it seem endless. | FALL 2017 | 51

HOTEL GuIDE Rarotonga


About Comprised of 7 self-catering private vacation villas, Manea Beach Villa sits in Ngatangiia District on the Eastern side of Rarotonga. The villas are a short walking distance from restaurants and Muri Night Market, allowing guests to feel immersed in local life. Room/ Villa Maire, our spacious three bedroom, two bathroom riverside villa laid out over two floors, has a full kitchen, and lounging area. The wood faced interior has a Pacific cabin feel, with windows all around that reveal idyllic scenes like a neighbouring patch of taro, and goats chomping on grass beside rows of coconut trees. The outdoor patio with barbecue and long communal table is ideal for al fresco dining with beautiful views of the mountains. Amenities Just past the communal laundry facilities, a gravel path leads to a large communal pool with bright white lounging chairs and slumbering kayaks (available to guests) overlooking Muri lagoon. It is a picture of the Pacific. What CSL liked Best Early morning kayaking in the shallow water becomes an impromptu race toward the tiny Oneroa Island (one of the many motu that dot Muri Lagoon) in search of shells. On my return a local lady is digging for clams, her wheelbarrow nearly spilling over. At the water's edge, I spot a giant clam and blue starfish, emblems of the islands.


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Clockwise from top: The shallow lagoon is perfect for kayaking; A look at the pool; A blue starfish and clam are iconic of the island; Landscaping is simple and well maintained; A look inside one of the bedrooms in the villa.

HOTEL GuIDE Rarotonga

Clockwise from top: The courtyard pool at Coral Sands Apartments is a relaxing way to spend an afternoon. The exterior of Ocean Spray Villa are sleek and modern.



About Located on the Western side of Raratonga, in the Arorangi district, the 7 spotless, self-catering apartments are ideal for small families on holiday. Modern, simple and quiet, my one bedroom apartment with queen sized bed and pull out sofa is big enough for a family of four to comfortably lounge, while small wedding parties or groups of friends can book the full set of apartments. The spacious, fully-equipped kitchen and dining area is a gathering point for enjoying freshly caught fish suppers. The patio with sun lounging chairs overlooks the pool and is ideal for relaxing or catching a cool breeze. Just 20 metres away guests can enjoy the beach, with kayaks or snorkelling equipment included. A barbeque and laundry facilities are all available to guests.

About Elevated two stories above ground, the stark white edifice feels like a beach penthouse that would not look out of place on the shores of Miami Beach. Emphasized by the white polished flooring, high ceiling and open concept layout, the modern villa is tastefully decorated with a minimalist bent, and features a large kitchen with full range of appliances, and living area with a flat screen television offering satellite. The focal point though, is the dining table that faces out toward double doors that open unto a balcony perched above the ocean. Decorated with white wicker lounging chairs it becomes the meeting point for morning cups of coffee. The three bedroom, two bathroom villa is roomy enough for a large family, or for three couples.

What CSL liked Best Though small, I was impressed with the simplicity and boutique feel of the property (guests names are sweetly written on whiteboards outside each apartment). Conveniently located, the apartments are a short drive to both the international airport and the main city of Avarua. A pre-paid phone, UV treated water and food starter (milk, juice eggs, and condiments) are all thoughtful and welcoming as is themanagement’s meticulousness.

What CSL liked Best Finding a private villa (not just a standard hotel), situated in a stunning district of Rarotonga is easy through’s diverse range of home stay options. Nestled in a local street, my stay gave a different perspective on Rarotonga allowing me to experience it like a true local (my neighbours even offered to help me open coconuts). search engine is ideal for long stay visitors who require this kind of choice. My villa offers a spectacular view of the shallow reef surrounding the island. Waking up to outrigger canoes paddling in the sea each morning, and gazing at the sepia hued sunset on evenings is a special treat. | FALL 2017 | 53

HOTEL GuIDE Rarotonga

Clockwise from top: An abundant seafood platter at Flambe; Ngametua shows guests how to climb a coconut tree Cook Island style; A look at the courtyard pool suite.

Crown Beach Spa & Resort


About This adult-only resort in Arorangi is like living in an elaborate, immaculate garden. Offering activities, dining, a friendly staff and beachfront location, it is one of most well-rounded properties on the island, allows guests a mix of both privacy and a plethora of locally-inspired activities. Dining Opened in the Spring of 2017, Flambé restaurant features a creative menu inspired by the demi-god Maui, known for bringing fire to humans. Order the succulent local seafood platter (which can easily be shared among four) with an array of raw tuna and oysters, grilled prawns and scallops and mahi mahi and marinated ika mata. This is easily one of the best restaurants on Rarotonga. Room The oasis offered by my courtyard pool suite comes in the form of a private pool, gazebo, and open courtyard. While the main elements – king sized bed, living area and wet bar – are well appointed, it is details like the silver clawfoot bathtub, outdoor shower and monsoon rain shower that make the difference. Amenities Laughter can be heard coming from the salt water pool, one of the largest in Rarotonga, where guests splash and sea life is depicted in mosaic tile. Follow the hibiscus plantings to the fine powder sand of the beach, the hub of hotel. 54

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Spa Ariki is located on site and Islands nights every Thursday at the hotel feature a lively cultural dance show and buffet. What CSL liked Best Standing apart, Crown Beach’s resort activities are posted daily and range from pareu tying and sea kayaking, to nature trail walks, and ‘ei haku (flower crown) making. When I first meet activities manager Ngametua, he is wearing a warm smile and kikau (grass) skirt. As a final welcoming gesture, he plays the pātē (a small percussion instrument) for the group of guests ready for the day's coconut climbing lesson. Several mid-aged men unsuccessfully try to scale a coconut palm, while, as part of the reigning coconut climbing champion team, Ngametua nimbly ambles upwards of 20 feet in the blink of an eye. Over a few days, I enjoy learning about local Cook Island traditions from him and assistant Coora. While some colleagues refer to him as the resort’s mascot, I think he is a cultural ambassador.

HOTEL GuIDE Aitutaki

Clockwise from top: The team at Aitutaki Escape including Thomas and Mene seated right and centre; Enjoying the patio and swimming pool; The long boardwalk with kayaks parked outside the villa; A look at the master suite; The enticing seafood curry at Rumours café.


About From the moment I am greeted at the Aitutaki airport with fragrant 'ei kaki (flower garlands) placed around my neck by Lizzie Koteka, I instantly feel at home. The fragrance intensifies in the couple minutes we spend commuting to the property.

Room A thatched portico braced by a steeple intuits that this is a villa with ancient Polynesian architectural inspiration. A private courtyard with outdoor dining space and swimming pool invite lazy breakfasts and afternoon dips. Inside the open-concept, Tapuaetai, two-bedroom villa, natural textures serve as tactile design elements – smooth pebble flooring beneath feet in the bathroom, polished wooden furnishings to hold onto, and sturdy coral walls (the zoological indentations still visible) to run marvelling hands across. The curves of modern

statuary, contrast with the angular lines of the many modern conveniences like a home entertainment system with 50-inch television and bluetooth speakers, and outdoor barbeque. Tucked away near the folding glass doors, there is even a telescope for whale watching or looking at the stars. King-sized four poster beds, with soft dusty turquoise and white bedspread seem the ultimate in comfortable luxury, that is, until entering each of the en suite bathrooms with their floor to ceiling windows. Taking a shower, while spying the outdoors, sunshine pouring in, feels like a revitalizing tropical interlude. Amenities Aitutaki lagoon is the endpoint of my personal boardwalk, and early mornings are spent kayaking in the shallow, calm water. Without another person in sight, I could easily pretend that I am on a de-

serted island. Breakfast is personally delivered, comprising a selection of fresh fruit, bread, pastry, yogurt and cereal. Rumours café, the onsite restaurant, serves an eclectic yet classic menu, prepared with care and attention by Chef-manager Thomas Koteka. Scallops are enveloped in a creamy white wine with local spinach in cheese sauce, New Zealand lamb rack is perfectly cooked, while red seafood curry is delicate and earthy. What CSL liked Best There is familial warmth palpable and unique to the property. With only three villas, it is easy to get to know the entire attentive team, and in turn, every need is catered to, with a friendly inquiry by Teumere Koteka-Heather (Mene) or Thomas. I wouldn’t mind being marooned here for a while. CSL | FALL 2017 | 55



Te Vara Nui In 2005 Moana Hunter and her husband Fodil Nair transformed a taro swamp into this complex which includes history, art, culture, dance and food to honour legendary entertainer and dancer Vara Hunter (and Moana’s mother). Nightly over water show includes dinner and cultural history.

Vancouver Los Angeles Papeete

The Cook Islands

Aitutaki Auckland




Flights Connections via Los Angeles, Auckland, Sydney, or Tahiti. Cook Islands Tourism For details and resources on the islands.

SEE Para O Tane Palace Historic two-storey site of the signing of a treaty granting the Cook Islands as a British protectorate in 1888 by the ariki (chief). The Taputapuatea marae (sacred meeting place) is situated on the grounds. Outside accessible only. Maire Nui Botanical G ardens Over a couple of decades avid gardener Hinano Macquarie transformed 7 acres of family land into a tropical oasis. The gardens include palms, fruit trees, flowers, water features and sculptures and the Hidden Spirit Café which serves organic food. Ara Tapu, Takitumu District, +682 22 796 Beachcomber Galler y Former missionary school that today houses cafes and shops.

Cook Islands Librar y and Museum Society An iconic mural graces the exterior of this volunteer-run museum on a historic road in Avarua. A repository of shells, ceremonial objects, photographs, weapons, rare books and more from Cook Islands’ past. +682 26 468; National Museum In a yellow building with sloped roof that mirrors the mountains behind it, the museum houses artifacts related to the Cook Islands and South Pacific. 9am-4pm Mon-Fri, Victoria Rd, Avarua.

DO Highland Paradise On a plateau in Arorangi, the site of an ancient marae, amidst 25 beautifully landscaped acres, was once a thriving village that lay forgotten for a century and a half before being revived by the descendants of High Chief Tinomana. Today the centre offers sunset cultural nights (Wednesday and Friday, including dinner and performances) and daily guided tours.


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Rito Cook Islands Produces a range of culinary and cosmetic products made from local cold-pressed virgin coconut oil. A great memento of the Cook Islands, products are available at the showroom at the Punanga Nui Market and the main store at Tikioki. +682 20134;

Matutu Brewing Company Locally made craft beers including Mai Lager, Kiva Pale Ale, the company also produces seasonal specials. Available at resorts, cafes and liquor stores, the brewery is open for tours and tastings. Cross Island Track Traversing the Aviatiu Valley and Te Manga Rua (the needle), this hike in the forested interior of Rarotonga provides breathtaking views and a good workout.

Cook Islands Christian Church Dotted throughout the island, these churches are a welcoming and beautiful glimpse into one of the most important aspects of Cook Islands culture. Sunday service is a highlight. Punanga Nui Market Saturday morning market on the western end of Avarua next to the Avatiu harbour selling everything from pareu (sarongs), black pearls, prepared food, and smoothies to bread, nu (green coconut), fruits, vegetables and traditional specialties. Live local performances on the main stage are a highlight.

Muri Night Market A sociable, friendly atmosphere pervades this collection of food stalls, and kiosks from local vendors in an openair location in the busy resort town of Muri. Rent a plate to keep your visit eco-friendly. Muri Beach, Tues, Weds, Thurs, Suns 5pm to 9pm; +682 52 241.

EAT AND STAY Le Bon Vivant (LBV) With two locations in Muri and Avarua, this bakery and café offers a selection of items including pastries, quiche, sandwiches, scones, wraps and donughts. With delicious tropical touches (think, coconut and pineapple cakes), all-day local coffee, and chic-modern décor, this is a great foodie destination. +682 28 619; Crown Beach Resort & Spa Near Black Rock on the western coast, this adults-only resort is set on the beach. Villas and suites are studded amidst 5-acres of lush gardens. With several on-site restaurants, a spa, a fun-filled activities hut, scuba dive centre, private and outdoor pool and entertaining Island night, there are plenty of options for exploring or relaxing. A friendly staff adds to the ambiance. Arorangi, Rarotonga, +682 23 953;

Rumours Luxury Villas and Spa Situated on one of the most beautiful stretches of Muri beach, this collection of boutique beachfront villas each feature a private pool, waterfall, outdoor patio dining, full kitchen and kayaks. Opt for one of the locally crafted and delicious platters for a culinary treat. Owner-managers are regularly on the premises to ensure your stay is perfect. + 682 22551;

Coral Sands Apartments On Rarotonga’s sunset coast, this immaculately kept self-catering apartment complex features an outdoor

pool, easy beach access, and a prepaid phone. A small starter kit in the kitchen, barbecue, and laundry make it ideal for families and couples. +682 21959;

Manea Beach Villas These 7 rustic self-catering villas (including 3-bedroom options) will make you feel like a local. Set amidst coconut trees, taro and native flora, Muri lagoon is just steps away. An outdoor pool, large private patio, and an endearing staff, make this a great choice for larger groups and families. Ngatangiia District; +682 25336; SilverSands at Muri Beach Club Hotel Large windows accentuate the view at this restaurant. Locals and visitors converge at the bar for pre-dinner drinks. Expect seafood, curries, New Zealand lamb and local specialties on the menu. Sandals Restaurant at Pacific Resor t Rarotonga A beachfront tent with views to neighbouring motu (islets) sets the scene at this restaurant.

Flambé A new addition to the local dining scene, this restaurant at Crown Beach Resort and Spa features live entertainment, a fire pit and table-side preparations. As a testament to the demi-god Maui, who learned to make fire, the menu specializes in char-grilled items. Many dishes are unique show-stoppers so have your phone ready for photos. : Ocean Spray V illa With over 1,265,000 unique properties that have approximately 25 million bookable rooms worldwide in over 227 countries and territories and more than 111,000 destinations, it is easy to find a property to love on A passion search allows visitors to pinpoint properties that align with their interests, like Ocean Spray Villa a 3-bedroom beachfront property with full kitchen and private location. Little Polynesian Restaurant Dine beside an infinity pool, on island favourites including ika mata (raw fish in coconut and lime), Pacific Rim cuisine and several seafood choices, all while sipping a cocktail. A ITUTAKI


Flights Air Rarotonga operates daily flights. Also inquire about their Aitutaki Day Tour which includes hotel transfer (to and from Rarotonga), air and the Vaka Cruise.

EAT, STAY, DO Aitutaki Escape 3 private, beachfront villas minutes from the airport with private pool, verandah, kayaks, and water features. Rumours café the onsite dining offers local and international favourites from Chef Koteka.

The Vaka Cruise Fun and entertaining lagoon cruise featuring snorkelling, lunch and bar service aboard Titi-ai-tonga, a spacious 70-foot Polynesian style boat. Pacific Resort Aitutak i Enjoy dinner overlooking the lagoon in a palapa-style, open air restaurant or opt for cocktails at Black Rock Bar.

”My soul can find no staircase to Heaven unless it be through Earth's loveliness.”   -  MICHELANGELO | FALL 2017 | 57