Winter 2019/2020

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WINTER 2019/2020 | V O L u M E 1 3 I S S u E 1 | C O N T E N T S


10-11 THE




CSL LIVING 9 FITNESS e 10 minute holiday survival workout


LIVING Find greater wellbeing with art, medicinal plants plus holiday detox recipe CSL FOOD 15 FUSION e perfect sweet hostess gi, little sparklers to celebrate with, and plant based cheese and snacks

18-19 IMBIBE


Get outside and experience nature’s greatest show

Celebration drinks and small bits plus the best wine to pair with food for your celebration meals

CSL FASHION 26-28 HELEN OF TROY e new garnet lip how-to guide, runway trends to try out, and CSL’s favourite beauty buys

29 PRÊT- À- PORTER How to wear ethnic prints

30-33 STYLIST e latest shoe trends, party dressing and how to simply update your resort wardrobe CSL TRAVEL 37 PASSPORT e Courtyard Marriott Port of Spain is small but mighty


Sicilian cooking at its finest: 3 must-make recipes from Cucina Siciliana



CSL GRE EN TIPS Increase the efficiency of your wood stove with an eco fan. / Use food scraps and leftovers as pet food. / Seek out a comfrey ointment for wounds. ›› | WINTER 2019/2020 | 3




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Publications Agreement No. 41599042 City Style and Living is published four times each year. No part of this publication may be reproduced by any means in whole or in part without the prior written consent of the publisher. Although every effort is taken to ensure accuracy, K & S Media cannot be held responsible for any errors, or omissions that may occur. The magazine assumes no responsibility for the safekeeping or return of unsolicited manuscripts, photographs, artwork or other material. All rights reserved 2019-2020. A proudly Green Magazine.


FOR THOUSANDS OF WOMEN ACROSS THE COUNTRY. Ovarian cancer is the most fatal of gynecologic cancers in Canada. 2,800 Canadian women are diagnosed with ovarian cancer each year. Five Canadian women are lost to the disease daily. Research is the only way to change the course of this disease for good.

Donating to ovarian cancer research will help save lives. Learn more at



NE OF THE GREAT JOYS OF THE winter season is a fire. A campfire, a bonfire, a log burning fire, a gas fire, it really does not matter, a fire is a comfort and, in its celebratory form, a high point of winter. Though, knowing the difference between these human-made forms of fire is instructive and can add to your enjoyment and delight. A campfire necessarily means being in the elements and seeking protection from them. It involves some kind of cooking or warming of food, drink or both. It is the fire of nourishment. A bonfire usually pertains to some festivities or ritual and because the fire is fuelled by wood piled high, it goes ablaze quickly. It is the fire of revelry and spectacle. An indoor log burning fireplace is no longer the sole means of keeping a space heated. Nor is it, as in olden times, a vestigial kitchen stove. Today, it is the fire of tradition, and may, in still moments, become the fire of hypnosis. A gas fireplace or any of the newfangled technologies are safer, more convenient options. They are the fire of expediency and entertainment, to show good taste in modern living. Whereas the first three forms of fire appeal to all the senses a gas fire and all modern fireplaces that replace logs with pipes or lasers or trickery do not. Part of the thrill of a real fire, and by that I mean one that engages all the senses is hearing the crackle, pop and jostle of the logs that, every so often, make you start. Then, there is the hypnotic pleasure of watching the flames dance and dart and hide and play. With a real fire the movements are never the same – you could watch for hours and never predict where they’ll go next.


A gas fire will always burn the same way – staid consistency is its very nature. That is not to say that a gas fire is inferior – only different. It needs no stoking, no tending, less cleaning, less work, and for that it is a boon. It will never, however, be as alive as its more natural counterparts. A gas fire has been tamed and proscribed, been given confines and parameters, it obeys the rules of humans. Fire is more than utility. A real fire is alive – it is a presence. It serves an important imaginative, psychological function. Part of the reason that a fire in winter is welcome has nothing to do with warmth. Sometimes, the gentle yellow-orange flame and the intimate light it produces is what you seek and stare into so that thoughts are set ablaze or dissipate. In those moments it is nice to have a glass of wine, better yet port, a platter full of exotic cheese and a good book. For those not inclined to drink, a steaming cup of hot cocoa sprinkled generously with cinnamon upon which mini marshmallows prance and sway would be in order, accompanied by, of course, cookies. Or, best of all, to have nothing at all, no food, no entertainment, only thoughts that need transforming, problems that require solving, energy in need of calming. To be before that gentle light, that beacon, is restorative. It does more than make coldness slowly thaw to warmth. Indeed, to be before that fire reminds us of a winter promise repeated for the ages that even in this darkest hour, here again and eternally comes the return of light. CSL –KAILASH AND SHIVANA




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Head to the mountains to revitalize your spirit.


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With all of the sweets, libations and treats during the festive time, it can be easy to fall out of your regular routine. These three moves that can be done from the comfort of home and will help you stay toned and fit throughout the holiday season. ( 20 reps on each side for each exercise )




Hamstrings and glutes are isolated and strengthened. Also enhances core stability

This isometric exercise targets your glutes while also engaging your abs

Rev up your heart rate, build core strength and tone your whole body all in one

Lay on a yoga mat with feet bent and hands laying flat beside your body. Push heels into the floor while squeezing your glutes, keeping abs tight and raising your hips to create a straight line.

Begin in a lunge position with right leg bent 90 degrees keeping your knee over your ankle, and back leg extended behind, bending at the knee and gently lowered toward the floor. As you lower you body toward the floor, holding the medicine ball in your hands, gently twist torso to the right, keeping your core tight. Alternate legs.

Begin in a plank position with head facing mat, shoulders over hands, and legs lengthened behind with weight over toes. Engage your core, and bring right knee forward toward left elbow. Return to plank position and repeat with left knee toward right elbow.

CSL GRE EN TIPS Properly dispose of mercury-containing items such as batteries, fluorescent lights, toys, jewelry. / Choose biodegradable kitty litter. ›› | WINTER 2019/2020 | 9


With Begonias

Easy to care for and beautiful, these plants make a wonderful houseplants. by TOVAH MARTIN


EGONIAS, INDESTRuCTIbLE? EASy FOR ME TO SAy: begonia is almost my middle name. Over my long and deep green past, I have grown just about every begonia known to humanity. Well, not really, because there are upward of 900 species out there, not to mention the thousands of cultivars created by folks like me, who feel 900 is not nearly enough. but during my twenty-five-year tenure at Logee’s Greenhouses in Danielson, Connecticut, I curated the begonia collection happily and intensively. The assemblage originally included the rhizomatous, rex, cane, angel wing, semperflorens, semi-tuberous, tuberous, and hiemalis groups. I do not recommend them all as bulletproof, but some are pretty tough cookies. All begonias are irresistible. but you need to know which members of this alluring family are toughest so you can succeed without shedding tears.


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First, you need to focus on the rhizomatous group. This is where you will find the wonderful hand-me-down begonias you inherited from your grandmother. before central heat, indoor plumbing, and all the other modern conveniences, a few stalwart begonias were chugging along in less-than-ideal home settings. The two stars of the show were pond lily begonia, begonia ‘Erythrophylla’ (aka beefsteak begonia), and star begonia, b. ‘Ricinifolia’ (aka castor bean begonia, probably the first begonia hybrid). you likely know these two most-wanted heirlooms on sight. pond lily begonia has smooth, shiny, round leaves with a bronze cast. Star begonia has (you guessed it) star-shaped green leaves with a chenille of bristly red hairs on the leaf petioles. both are nearly unkillable, although they can come down with powdery mildew if continually subjected to poor air circulation and dank conditions. but generally they are impervious. And although powdery mildew defaces some leaves, the plant will survive the affliction. In general, the only problems gardeners face with these vintage rhizomatous begonias is how to give old, gnarly plants new life. While we’re on the subject, here’s how to rejuvenate rhizomatous begonias and give them further zest. First, cut back the old rhizomes. Rhizomatous begonias send up growth from arms and legs that creep along the top of the soil. These swollen appendages are not particularly handsome; indeed, they look slightly arthritic. but they are your targets for makeover surgery. Do not cut them back to their fat, woody origins. Instead, try to save some younger sections and remove straggly growth. If you do it correctly, you will have a newly invigorated plant. It’s like molting. And, of course, if you don’t mind the straggly presentation, there’s no harm in leaving your inherited begonia alone. pond lily and castor bean begonias are just the beginning. The plant has come a long way. There are loads of rhizomatous begonias out there, and many are equally rock solid. In a family that can be dicey, many are not prima donnas. begonia ‘Zip’, b. ‘River Nile’, b. ‘Tiger Kitten’, and many others aim to please. These add some dash to your home with their colorful, mottled, or striped leaves. There are some truly challenging rare species of rhizomatous begonias, but most of the readily available rhizomatous are a cakewalk. Flowers are also in your cards with the rhizomatous clan, especially in late winter, when they send up wands of tiny colorful blooms to quell the pangs of cabin fever. The pink, salmon, or white blossoms are adorable, and they make all the difference at a time of year when you’re starving for color. Although rhizomatous begonias are relatively easy, they will not endure constantly wet foliage or consistently damp roots. Do not drench this plant. In fact, if you lean in the drier direction, your relationship will be better. Another trick is to aim the watering can at the soil surface rather than the leaves. begonias don’t like wet foliage. Do not grant them overly generous root room, as there is not a begonia on Earth that likes to swim in its pot. Their root systems grow horizontally, so most

prefer shallow containers to deep pots. The majority of begonias like to be stationed in an east- or west-facing window where they receive good light but not baking sun. A north-facing window is pushing it. South works in winter, but can scorch in summer. begonias do not like chilly conditions. When working begonias into the indoor scenery, I play up their texture because many have furry, eyelashed leaves. Since I’m a collector, the dialogue is often between several begonias grown side by side. but ferns and orchids are good growing mates too. The tapestry that results can read well with upholstered furniture and nubby throws for the sofa. begonias work equally well in a Victorian home or a contemporary scene. put a begonia in a spare modern setting and its leaf shape says a lot, even in a limited space. Coming in at second place behind rhizomatous begonias would be the angel wing branch of the cane group. you have probably encountered these majestic plants in your travels. Their leaves come in all sizes, they tend to be wing shaped, and they can have intriguing markings. Flower umbels can be immense and colorful, and they hold steady in pristine condition for weeks. Although angel wings are not that difficult to grow, they require some strategic and frequent pruning to keep the plant appealing. Otherwise you will be staring at a forest of naked stems with leaves at their tips. It’s not a happy picture. With pruning, they can be quite elegant. This is the plant for anyone who is fond of taking cuttings. Whichever way you go with begonias, good things are in store. They offer diversity beyond your wildest dreams. you could explore this family for decades and not grow even slightly bored. I know this from experience. BEGONIA begonia Easy Size Ranging from 3 to 30 inches (7 to 76 cm) high Foliage Extremely diverse, with all sorts of leaf shapes, textures, and sizes available Other attributes: Midwinter blossoms Exposure: East or west Water requirements: Allow soil to dry out between waterings Optimum nighttime temperature: 55–70°F (12– 21°C) Rate of growth: Medium Soil type: Rich, humusy, peaty potting soil with compost included Fertilizing: Early spring to late autumn Issues: powdery mildew can be a problem Companions: African violets, bromeliads, ferns, mosses, nerve plants, plectranthus, and any other low-light individuals

Excerpted from The Indestructible Houseplant by Tovah Martin. Copyright © 2015. photographs by Kindra Clineff. used with permission from Timber press.



We all know that surrounding yourself with art you love is good for the soul. but did you also know that it’s also good for your health? In a 2011 study led by professor Semir Zeki, a neurobiologist with the university of London, researchers scanned the brains of participants as they viewed 28 photos of famous artwork like Sandro botticelli’s The birth of Venus. They found that dopamine, the same brain chemical associated with love, is released when participants viewed art they liked. It’s not just paintings either. Any art form you find pleasing can have this effect. In another study from Norway that surveyed 150 000 men and women, those who enjoyed art, had the same sense of well-being and lower depression as those who created art. Why not surround yourself with an entire wall of beauty in your home? That way, you can enjoy art you love every day. One of the easiest way to do this is with a wall hanging carpet. CSL absolutely loved the gorgeous folk patterns and bold colours of this hand-knotted rug which draws inspiration from ancient motifs. It reminded us of a family tree, each branch representing a family member. Floral flourishes and the unique pattern will have you endlessly entertained and in awe. Hey, that’s what the best art does – and it’s good for you. Solo Rugs Tribal, Hand Knotted Area Rug, 4' 1" x 5' 10", $749.00 USD;



Ideas WeLove

Get the lifestyle shake up you need now with the secrets, ingredients and expert advice for looking and feeling great!


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CSL asked renowned physician Dr. Robert D. Willix, Jr., author of The Rejuvenation Solution: The Seven-Day plan That Jump-Starts Ageless Health, for his tips on optimal health.

What is the most significant change a person should make to feel and look younger? The most significant way for a person to feel and look younger is to be the fittest version of themselves. That means that you should be more conscious of nutrition and exercise at least 5 days a week — exercise helps manage stress and chronic stress creates a visible stamp of aging on our appearance.


What 3 steps can a person take to reduce stress? A) Manage your time by saying "no" when it puts pressure on you to meet deadlines. b) Find a way to laugh and use humor to relieve the day to day stressors, that's the reason I tell people to keep wind-up toys handy because it reminds you to be more childlike. C) Meditate twice a day even for 5 minutes by learning how to slow down your thoughts, even it is a simple as listening to music or using a mantra or seeing the sunrise and set. What is the best exercise and nutritional advice from your book? Exercise aerobically before the age of 50 – swim, bike, run, walk, hike, at least 1 hour 5 days a week. After the age of 50 gym workouts, yoga and pilates 5 days week. Take one day a week to be vegan and then add more plants to your daily diet 5 vegetables a day. One day a week, give your GI tract a rest by fasting on a juice or a liquefied diet.

LEARN ABOUT MEDICINAL PLANTS Mountain States Medicinal plants: Identify, Harvest, and use 100 Wild Herbs for Health and Wellness by briana Wiles.

Tomorrow's medicines lie in the plants of today and the wisdom of yesteryear. Only a couple generations ago, people knew how to identify and use plants to aid a wide range of ailments. This book is a wonderful resource for those looking to revive those lost skills. plants considered weeds, like dandelions, provide benefits that go unrecognized and underappreciated by today's beauty obsessed, use-and-discard culture. It is vitally important however to properly understand and prepare plants before collection or use. In this book, a photograph of each plant is accompanied by a descriptions of the parts used, its features, medicinal uses, herbal preparations and cautions, plus pointers so that you do not deplete wild sources. Although the Mountain States have some of the most harsh environmental conditions, the plants that thrive here can be a source of healing.





Not-yo-Mama’s Collard Greens Serves 4 to 6 people Three bunches of collard greens, soak in warm water, de-stemmed & cut 2 tablespoons olive oil or coconut oil 1 large chopped onion 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes 1 minced garlic clove or 1 teaspoon granulated garlic 2 tablespoon coconut liquid aminos 2 tablespoon balsamic vinegar 4 cups vegetable stock 2 tomatoes, chopped Garlic salt and pepper to taste. INSTRuCTIONS Soak collard greens in a large sink or steel bowl. pick through the greens and discard yellow leaves and any thick stems. Dry and cut out the thicker stem of the collard greens. Stack 3-4 leaves and roll the leaves crosswise into tiny strips or chop into 1/4” strips. In a large pot over medium heat, heat the oil. Sauté the onions until slightly softened, about 4-5 minutes, then add the red pepper flakes, and garlic, cook another minute. Add collard greens and cook another minute. Add the vegetable stock, coconut liquid aminos and balsamic vinegar, cover and bring to a simmer. Add filtered water as needed. Cook until greens are tender, about 40 minutes. Add or garnish with tomatoes and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Recipe and photo reprinted with permission from Detoxelicious by Dena Dodd perry balboa press/2019


There's nothing worse than cold feet, caused by frigid air creeping in from a small crack in winter boots. Rather than investing in a brand new pair, extend its life with a patch of super strong, waterproof rubberized adhesive. Flexible tape conforms to any shape, and can withstand extreme temperatures and moisture. CSL even used it to repair an old hot water bottle which sprang a leak.

Flex Tape, | WINTER 2019/2020 | 13



Spice chewy yet crisp cookies are a sure sign of the holiday season, instead of an elaborate house why not try simple cookies dusted with sanding sugar and slathered with dulce de leche. Arrange them on a three-tiered stand, and decorate with seasonal fruit and foliage.


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plant based foods, mini sparklers and a sweet surprise hits all the notes for the holiday season FAUX- GETTA ‘BOUT IT

Plant-Based eating is here to stay, and that's a good thing. From reducing our environmental footprint to ethical food sourcing and health benefits, boosting our intake of phytonutrients is beneficial in more ways than one. Rather than solely creating an alternative to dairy, The Frauxmagerie, a certified VegeCert company is a game-changer, producing a variety of artisanal, aged, plant-based 'frauxmage', think botanic aged Camembert, blue and boka and botanic fresh (mauxarella, Greek Frauxmage and frauxmage curds). The plant parm, a combination of crunchy crushed nuts, nutritional yeast and spices makes a crunchy topping for pasta bakes and pizza.

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With a master’s degree in traditional Chinese medicine, founder of SeaSnax, Jin Jun strongly advocates nutrition as a tool for healing, self-empowerment and disease prevention. Seaweed, long consumed in Asian cultures for its abundance of nutrients (iodine, iron, and vitamin C) and antioxidants has been gaining popularity in the west as a trendy food du jour. The colourful SeaVegi, a salad mix of Wakame, Agar, Suginori, Tsunomata, Mafunori can be rehydrated allowing the vegetables to ‘bloom’, and added to salads or lightly dressed with a splash of soy, mirin and sesame oil as an accompaniment to a poke bowl.

The Host with The Most


you can never go wrong with fine chocolates for a host/ hostess gift but not every box is created equal (raise your hand if you eat all the caramel bonbons first). purdys Merry and bright Gift Tin, made with 100% sustainable cocoa is packed with exciting, modern flavours like yuzu, Turona and Caramel Carnival, so you'll never be bored with the same old boring flavours. purdys Merry and bright Gift Tin, $25;

Anything mini is cuter! Whether in mini bottle or can form, pint size sparkling wine in its diminutive form make great party favours, cocktail party drinks and the ideal portable libation for New year’s celebrations. The pretty pink Francis Coppola Sofia brut rosé is a light, fruity effervescent and creamy style, while Canella prosecco DOCG offers a hint of sweetness with notes of apple, and stone fruit with balanced acidity.



The sleek, sexy black packaging and simple typeface evokes luxury, but this isn’t your grandmother’s granola. Made with vegan, gluten-free and non-GMO ingredients, Granolust a Canadian line of premium granola in four flavours can be eaten as a snack, or topped on yogurt. The super unique rosemary parmesan crunch with its savoury bent, adds crunch to baked or stovetop macaroni and cheese. 300g $15; | WINTER 2019/2020 | 15

d n a e l p Sim cious

i l e D

Spreading holiday cheer with a freshly baked sweet treat is the way to anyone's heart, but the busy season can make it tricky to carve out time to make everything from scratch. Step in a few helpful shortcuts that cut kitchen prep time without compromising on taste. pHOTOGRApHy K&S MEDIA


Create festive treats in minutes with these simple cheats 1


Lay the pre-rolled pastry in between two baking sheets and bake until lightly golden and crisp. Cut into 5x 2 inch strips and stack with fresh raspberries, and whipped cream for Napoleon in minutes.



Warm cream (we love Lactantia 35% Old Fashioned Cream) on stovetop with dark chocolate and a splash of vanilla. Chill until cool and whip until light and fluffy to create a quick mousse sans eggs.



Top homemade gingersnap biscuits (left), cupcakes or cake with a dollop of prebought creamy, silky dulce de leche.



Steep your favourite dried fruit in a strong espresso (try Melitta M-Xpress) and a splash of rum a day before baking to enhance deep earthy (far left).



Traditional butter cream frosting can be too sweet. Step in Philadelphia new whipped frosting that adds a hint of tang to counter the sugar. Smear between two dark chocolate cookies for a clever twist on the sandwich cookie.

C SL GR EEN TIPS Clean appliances for more efficient energy use. / Use mesh or cloth bags for produce, and dry goods. / Place only full loads in the dish washer. ›› | WINTER 2019/2020 | 17





Easy, passed, shareable drink and food is so right now! It also happens to be the theme of the new book Short Cocktails and Small bites by Julia Charles. Turn the page to see how it’s done! pHOTOGRApHy by ALEx LuCK

C LE M E NT I N E C A IP I RI NH A W I T H B R IE A ND C R A N B E R RY S AU C E P U F F S A classic Caipirinha is my go-to drink on a hot summer’s night. It is made with a whole lime cut into wedges and ‘muddled’ with sugar in a rocks glass to extract all the juice. A scoop of crushed iced then goes in, followed by a generous measure of neat spirit. Rather than be deprived of this icy treat in the winter months, I tried this seasonal twist.The tangy clementine is, of course, perfect with a little cranberry sauce and creamy brie.

Choose a wine for every celebration From small gatherings to the traditional family dinner, here are five bottles to suit any guest.

CLEMENTINE CAIPIRINHA Makes 2 drinks (each 30 ml/1 oz.) 1 whole clementine 1 fresh lime, cut into wedges 2 teaspoons demerara sugar 60 ml/2 oz. cachaça (Brazilian sugar cane spirit) Ice cubes and crushed ice 2 small tumblers Drinking straws


BRIE AND CRANBERRY SAUCE PUFFS Makes 24 375-g/12-oz. package ready-rolled puff pastry, chilled About 200-g/7 oz. Brie, cut into 2-cm/3⁄4inch cubes 250 ml/1 cup cranberry sauce Fresh thyme sprigs, to garnish A 24-hole non-stick mini muffin pan, lightly greased Short cocktail: Remove the ends from the clementine and slice it into quarters, being sure to remove any of the white pith in the centre of the segments. Put into a cocktail shaker with a lime wedge and sugar and pound with a muddler or end of a wooden rolling pin to extract the juice. Add the cachaça with plenty of ice cubes and shake well. Strain into small crushed-ice filled tumblers and serve with a short, wide straw. Garnish with lime wedges, if desired. Small bite: Preheat the oven to 200ºC (400ºF) Gas 6. Use a sharp knife to cut the puff pastry sheet into 7.5-cm/3-inch squares. Press each square into the prepared muffin pan. Place a cube of Brie in each one and add about 2 teaspoons of cranberry sauce. Bake in the preheated oven for 15–10 minutes until golden and puffed and the cheese has melted. Garnish with a sprig of thyme and serve warm.

Excerpted from Short Cocktails and Small bites by Julia Charles, published by Ryland peters & Small (CAN $13.95). photography by Alex Luck © Ryland peters & Small. used with permission from the publisher.

For the vegan/ vegetarian in your life

With more people leaning toward plant based diets, don't get boxed into a corner when trying to match a wine to a vegetarian or vegan meal. The 'heavier' the main (beans, mushrooms), the heavier bodied the wine style, while light salads with vinaigrette are better suited to sparkling and whites. Tomato based sauces (in pasta or pizza) are made for high-acid Italian reds like Feudo Maccari Nero d'Avola- the fresh red berry fruit in this style has a good amount of acidity, that is made for food.

dark fruit against good tannin structure and hint of spice creates a balanced medium bodied wine.

For the family meal

Nero d’Avola is the most popular red grape variety in Sicily and for good reason, this medium body with lots of ripe fruit, and hint of pepper is a winner for turkey dinner. With a long, smooth plum finish, with bold cherry, and raspberry, Mandrarossa Nero d’Avola Costa Dune has a nice burst of acidity that holds up well with the heaviness, and richness of a Holiday dinner.

To im press the in-laws

You want to choose something more special, but don't want to seem uppity, or spend too much for a nice bottle. Château d e Montfaucon Les Gardettes Rouge, a blend of Syrah, Carignan, Cinsault, Mourvedre, Grenache from the Languedoc region of France delivers high value for the price. Deep,

New Friends

will appeal to a crowd- a California red can do just the trick. Broadside Cabernet Sauvignon, from Paso Robles with atypical fruit like luscious plum and strawberry, gives way to rich dark blackberry, silky tannins and a whisper of oak that is unlike any Cab you've tried.

unexpected dessert pairing

Yes, champagne screams holidays, however if you are serving heavier winter desserts like dark chocolate cake, spiced gingerbread or sticky toffee pudding, you'll want a wine that stands up to these strong flavours. Ber tani Amarone flawlessly echoes the cocoa notes of this sumptuous red morello cherry and plum with toasted nuts, spicy licorice and soft vanilla are the perfect notes to end a meal.

Whether it's the new neighbours that moved in next door, or colleagues from work that you want to invite over for a dinner party, you want to choose an all rounder that | WINTER 2019/2020 | 19

KITCHEN Courgette Leaf and Fresh Tomato Soup with Pastina


Take a cue from the island at the toe of Italy’s boot that has been influenced by waves of settlers.


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Tomato Sauce with Almonds | WINTER 2019/2020 | 21



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Courgette Leaf and Fresh Tomato Soup with Pastina Foglie du zucchini con pomodoro fresche e pastina At long last, a recipe for courgette/zucchini leaves! The flavour is slightly bitter from the leaves, but it is balanced well with the sweetness of the tomatoes, onions, and basil. It’s very satisfying to make, especially if the ingredients I’ve listed happen to be growing in your garden! This dish originates from Messina, in the north-eastern tip of the island. SERVES 6–8 500 g/1 lb 2 oz courgette/zucchini leaves or chicory/endive leaves 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 onions, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 500 g/2¾ cups ripe tomatoes, skinned, deseeded and roughly chopped A handful of fresh basil 125 g/2 cups pastina or little dried pasta shapes (e.g. stars, wheels) Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper To serve 2 tablespoons good-quality extra virgin olive oil Parmesan cheese (optional) Cook the courgette/zucchini leaves (or chicory/endive) in plenty of rolling boiling water for 20 minutes. Drain and chop the leaves. Heat the olive oil in a large pan and cook the onions until they are golden. Add the chopped leaves, stirring well. Add the garlic, tomatoes, basil, little pasta shapes and seasoning. Stir well and add 1½ litres/6½ cups of water. Bring to the boil and simmer for 10 minutes, until the pasta is cooked. Season again. Serve with plenty of Parmesan cheese and good oil to anoint the soup.

Tomato Sauce with Almonds Salse di pomodori con mandorla I believe this tasty, satisfying and easy-to-make pesto originates from the Trapani province, but it is available in all good trattorias throughout the island, often listed on the menu as pasta picchi pacchi. Sicily really does grow the finest tomatoes, said to be connected to the light and the fertile soil. SERVES 4 1

kg/2¼ lbs ripe plum tomatoes, peeled and chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped A generous handful of basil, freshly chopped A generous handful of flat-leaf parsley, freshly chopped 75 g/¾ cup blanched almonds, finely chopped A small pinch of crushed dried chilli/chile (peperoncino)

2 tablespoons olive oil 350 g/9 oz dried spaghetti or tagliatelle Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper Freshly grated caciocavallo cheese (or if you can’t find it, provolone cheese), to serve 2 tablespoons good-quality extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling Mix the tomatoes, garlic, basil, parsley, almonds, chilli/chile and salt and pepper in a bowl with olive oil. Leave to marinate for at least 2 hours. Adjust the seasoning if required. Cook the pasta in a large pan of rolling boiling salted water. Drain, and mix the tomato sauce with the pasta. Serve with the caciocavallo cheese and drizzle with the olive oil. Serve straight away.

Cassata This is a simple, classic dessert, made from ricotta and sponge cake, and should not be confused with cassata gelata, which is an ice-cream bombe. Prepare it a day ahead of time. SERVES 8–10 450 g /1 lb ricotta 225 g / 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons caster/granulated sugar 225 g / 8 oz dark/bittersweet chocolate (70% cocoa) ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon 2 tablespoons Amaretto, or other almondflavoured liqueur 175 g/1¾ cups shelled pistachio nuts, chopped 200 g/7 oz glacé/candied fruits, chopped 12 Italian lady finger/savoiardi biscuits (recipe below) ½ Italian sponge cake (recipe below), cut horizontally Italian lady fingers 3 UK large/US extra large eggs, separated 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 85 g/¾ self-raising/rising flour 1 teaspoon baking powder ¼ teaspoon salt 85 g/¼ plus 2 tablespoons caster/granulated sugar Italian sponge cake 5 UK large/US extra large eggs, separated 225 g/1 cup plus 2 tablespoons caster/granulated sugar 200 g/1½ cups plain/all-purpose white or Italian ‘00’ flour Finely grated zest of 2 unwaxed lemons 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1 teaspoon rum Topping 225 ml/1 cup double/heavy cream 1 tablespoon Amaretto Glacé/candied fruit, to decorate 23-cm/9-inch loose-bottomed round, deep cake pan, greased and floured

Preheat the oven to 180°F (350°F) Gas 4. To make the Italian lady fingers, beat the egg yolks until thick, then beat in the vanilla extract. In a bowl, sift the flour and baking powder together. Whisk the egg whites until stiff, then whisk in the salt and sugar until the whites are glossy and very stiff. Use a metal spoon, fold the egg yolks into the egg whites, followed by the sifted flour. Drop tablespoons of the batter onto an ungreased baking sheet, and spread to form fingers measuring about 20 x 6 cm (8 x 2½ inches). Bake for 10 minutes until golden. Transfer to a wire rack and leave to cool. To make the sponge cake, whisk together the egg yolks and sugar until thick and creamy. Whisk the egg whites until stiff, then gently fold into the egg yolk mixture. Gradually sift in and fold in the flour. Add the lemon zest, vanilla, and rum, and mix together until well blended. Pour the mixture into the prepared cake pan and bake for 30–35 minutes, until golden brown and well risen. Turn onto a wire rack and leave to cool. Line the base and sides of a 1.7-litre/3-pint pudding basin with clingfirm/plastic wrap. Beat together the ricotta and sugar until light and fluffy. Divide the mixture in half. Chop half of the chocolate into small pieces. Add to half of the ricotta mixture with the cinnamon and Amaretto. Fold the pistachio nuts and glacé fruits through the other half. Cover both mixtures and set aside. Use the lady fingers to line the prepared basin, pressing them firmly around the bowl so that they are even. Fill first with the fruit-ricotta mixture, then with the chocolate-ricotta mixture. Cover the top with the cake. Cover the bowl with clingfilm/plastic wrap and freeze for 2 hours or longer. Remove the basin from the freezer. Melt the remaining chocolate and pour over the top of the sponge in the bowl. Return to the freezer for about 15 minutes, until set. To make the topping, whip the cream and Amaretto together until it just holds its shape. Just before serving, turn out the cassata. Ease around the edges of the basin with a palette knife, then place a serving plate over the top. Invert the basin onto the plate, and let the cassata gently ease out, chocolate side down. Spread out the cream mixture to cover, and decorate with glacé/candied fruit. CSL


Excerpted from Cucina Siciliana by ursula Ferrigno, published by Ryland peters & Small (CAN $27.95). photography by David Munns © Ryland peters & Small. used with permission from the publisher. | WINTER 2019/2020 | 23



pedro Del Hierro gets it right with a slinky slip dress that’s just the right antidote to the excess of the season.


| WINTER 2019/2020 |






Brightcolouredmakeuplooksfreshand modern.MaybellineNewYork’sGlobal MakeupArtist,ErinParsons,created bold,darkandsexylooks. ALICE + OLIVIA






FLOWING TRESSES For best results, begin with hair that has not been washed. Separate hair into one-inch sections. With a large brush, lightly coat each section with lightweight styling gel starting one inch from roots to ends. Rather than placing the curling iron on the ends of hair and rolling up, wrap an entire section around the iron’s open barrel, then clamp down. CHRISTIAN SIRIANO

HAIR GLITTER LIPS CHAINS PRETTY POUT Glitter equals one part high glamour and one part fairytale! At Rodarte, “the makeup for th[e] show was inspired by the vibrant glitter from classic Hollywood musicals,” said James Kaliardos using NARS Cosmetics. It’s easy to do for holiday parties – apply lip pencil, creamy lipstick (important, so that the next layer will stick) and glitter.

Dior Rouge Dior Lipstick, $49.00; bareMinerals Statement Under Over Lip Liner, $21.50. ALExANDER WANG

ACCESSORY Polished low ponytails ruled at Ralph Lauren, Badgley Mischka and Cushnie. But taking it to the next level was Justine Marjan, TRESemmé ambassador who intertwined strands of hair with metal chainlink at Christian Siriano. This look ups the ribbon game, and gives locks a modern, urban edge.


SKIN Nothing beats simplicity and this ethos was on full display at Alexander Wang. “This show was an ode to American sportswear and a look at the future. We kept the skin beautiful with glowy cheeks and lips using different shades and textures of NARS Orgasm,” said makeup artist Diane Kendal using NARS Cosmetics. The versatility of this look is what keeps it coming back season after season.

NARS Natural Radiant Longwear Foundation. Benefit Cosmetics Angled Brow Brush & Spoolie, $26.00. Urban Decay Vice Lip Chemistry, $29.50. Giorgio Armani Beauty A-Line Liquid Blush, $50.00.

CSL GRE EN TIPS Place only full loads in the washing machine. / Seek shavers with recyclable or replaceable blades. / Recycle cosmetics containers. ›› 26

| WINTER 2019/2020 |




This Season’s


When you need moisturizing, cleansing beauty products made from natural sources.


There’s no better pick-me-up than the scent of citrus and this body wash delivers with essential oils like bergamot and sweet orange. Moisturizing comes from coconut and sunflower oils. It’s right up our alley, uh, street. Crawford Street Natural Skin Care Savon Citrus, $22.00;


A small-batch tooth powder with kaolin clay, myrrh and neem, all known for their detoxifying properties. It becomes a paste when combined with water and gently whitens teeth. Plus, it has a kick of lavender for sweet dreams. Fig + Yarrow Tooth Powder Cornmint Lavender,




Fresh was one of the first companies to turn to the cosmetic benefits of soy. The gentle microdermabrasion, hydrating jojoba, and rose hip, and calming cucumber is ideal for those with sensitive skin. Now that’s so fresh and so clean! Fresh Soy Face Exfoliator, $43.00;


With less than a score of natural ingredients like avocado oil, calendula extract and sweet almond oil, it has a pleasant texture. Best of all, the colour comes strictly from alkanet root. If you love invigorating peppermint in your lip balm, this tinted butter is for you. Zip-a-Dee-Doo-Dah! Huna Moisturizing Lip Butter, $30.00; CSL

One of the most evocative things about Hawaii is the floral fragrance that perfumes the air. Recreate that feeling by applying this blend of botanical oils to damp skin. Wafting through oils like macadamia and kukui (candlenut) are scents such as ylang ylang, Pīkake (jasmine) and rosemary. Aloha! Oshan Essentials 'ĀHIU exotic Body+Hair Mano'i, $34.00;

by NATALIE FOx | WINTER 2019/2020 | 27




pucker up! you love making a statement, and nothing says it louder or clearer than glamorous red. Fiery, bold and seductive it’s epic.

Urban Decay 24/7 Glide-On Lip Pencil, $28.00. BECCA Ultimate Lipstick Love, $32.00.

How to Master This Look 1 WHy IT WORKS From your first kiss to raising your glass, it looks good all day long. plus, the shade looks good on every skin tone. 2 LONGLASTING WEAR The secret to applying dark lipstick? Lipliner! Trace the outline of your lips and blend with finger, then fill in with lipliner before blotting and applying lipstick. Add a dose of colour and sheer tint to your lips. 3 INSIDER TIp Makeup artist Grace Lee for Maybelline New york, intensifies the color even further with another layer of lip liner. For a dramatic and diffused finish, she uses a clean, soft brush to gently buff the edges of the lips.


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STRuTTING DOWN THE runway this season was a sea of patterns that made monochromatic look boring. It also happens to be the perfect statement for holiday parties which tend to be awash in winter white, perennial black and way too many sequins. N AE E M K HA N was inspired by 1970s Studio-54-era Halston, in looks that favoured separates, and did not abandon his Indian flair. O S C AR D E L A RE NTA took a cue from Islamic and Christian architecture from Spain with vivid colour and intricate designs. CHA NE L’ S look had a folksy, chalet feel that referenced northern climes. p RA bA L GuRuN G meanwhile alluded to his return trips to Nepal and India with plenty of gold appliqué and CARO L IN A H ERRERA ’S prints resembled batik with their stark graphics. | WINTER 2019/2020 | 29




No matter the style you’re drawn to the runways had the footwear for it all: Marc Cain’s formfitting sportswear dress paired with casual gym kicks; Alice + Olivia showed zebra pattern from head to toe; Fendi’s embellished classic pumps drew from the colour and feminine lines of a pleated skirt; Cushnie’s dominatrix stiletto boots went with the #lbd; Tibi’s slip-on Chelsea boots contrasted an emerald pencil skirt; at Chanel warm and cozy shearling boots blended with fair isle knits. 30

| WINTER 2019/2020 |






JoNaTHaN SIMkHaI KURT GEIGER LOND ON Kensington Sequin Embellished Shoulder Bag, $270.69

1064 STUDIO Gold-plated necklace, $707

ALICE + OLIVIA Racquel sequined tulle wide-leg pants, $550


MCQ ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Metallic vinyl midi skirt, $465


ZARA Sequin halter top, $25.90

High sheen fabric, paillettes and sequins reflect the light making you the focus CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN Araborda 70 crystal-embellished suede and mesh slingback sandals, $1,510



GlITz, SHINE aNd SpaRklE! TuRN HEadS wITH THESE updaTEd fESTIvE lookS

BCBG MAX AZRIA Camo Sequin Blazer, $452; Chiffon Party Dress, $478 | WINTER 2019/2020 | 31

ZARA Animal print sequin dress,$79.90


Think big ďŹ ve but make it fashion. Snake, zebra and cheetah are the most coveted prints du jour NORMA KAMALI Striped snakeprint stretch-jersey track jacket, $205

MIU MIU Leather-trimmed zebra-print canvas pouch, $240

STELLA MCCARTNEY 51MM Leopard Print Rounded Cat Eye Sunglasses, $290



MICHAEL MICHAEL KORS Tiger Sequined Flounce Dress, $450, Patent Loop Waist Belt, $98 and Whitney Large Zebra Sequined Convertible Shoulder Bag, $448

RAILS Gracie Leopard-Print Sweater, $233


32 | WINTER 2019/2020 |

ADRIANA ORSINI Silvertone cubic zirconia lace flexi drop earrings, $265

KHAITE Zebra-print calf hair ankle boots $1,200

STAY CHILL Fair isle sweaters, cozy down filled parkas and chunky boots with a touch of sparkle around the face is the newest look to hit the slopes


MARLO LAZ Mini Porte Bonheur 14karat gold, enamel, pearl and diamond earrings

LACOSTE Winter design cotton and wool blend jacquard sweater, $295

SOREL Tivoli IV Tall Boot, $200; Available at Sport Chek

ST YLIST TIP It’s a twofer: look sleek and stay warm. The P75d GORE-TEX fabric with 2L technology outer shell gives complete protection from the elements while the Down Contour Construction and Down Composite Mapping technologies reduce bulk with cleverly placed insulation in the right places.

ARC'TERYX Patera Parka, $800



WAR RIOR ALPACA SOCKS Happy Alpaca FamilyNon-Skid Alpaca Socks $14.99;



LOR EN STEWART Herringbone XL silver necklace $198

AMAIO Avril maillot,Pleated Ivory,$605.13;

THROUGH LINE Extend the life of your swimwear by wearing it as a bodysuit. Layer under a translucent maxi skirt and jacket (or vest) and accentuate with a sparkly necklace.

CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN Yetita Genuine Shearling Bootie, $1630


ANN DEMEULEMEESTER Double-breasted grain de poudre vest, $770


NEEDLE AND THREAD Honeycombe Smocked Ballerina Skirt, $225 | WINTER 2019/2020 | 33

SENSI STUDIO Two-tone toquilla straw sunhat, $130 CHAN LUU Silver shell earrings,$125

Editor’s Insight The sophisticated swim styles are crafted to be functional in the water, but throw on a floaty skirt, or lightweight button down shirt from the après swim collection and ta-da, you've got a stylish outfit to take on the city. - SHIVANA MAHARAJ

AMAIO Jolie Top - Micro Floral, $369.06 and Fleur Bottoms Micro Floral, $362.47;

PRITI NYC 247 Ladyfinger Cactus vegan nail polish, $15


you may have heard of après ski, but what about après swim? Inspired by the modern woman's desire to transition attire after visiting the beach or pool, founder of Amaiò, Samantha Khoury's sophisticated line of swimwear and resort pieces blurs the line between swimwear and ready to wear.

CARRIE FORBES Salon Miste two-tone woven raffia slides, $325

Inspired by Resort 2020 Leisure-luxe swim was all over the resort collections, with easy, breezy silhouettes, florals and ruffles galore paired with double duty swimwear. 34

MIZELE + Timeless Pearly shell-embellished crocheted cotton tote, $322


| WINTER 2019/2020 |


DOLCE & GABBANA Floral-print silk scarf, $195

All About Design Amaiò is all about the details! The pink textured micro floral jacquard adds a retro flourish, and is lined with buttery soft Italian Eurojersey. A dainty keyhole back opening and large gold plated Amaiò clasp exude elegance.

PATBO Cropped printed cottonblend poplin wrap top, $375

INNIKA CHOO Wilma Butfiet scalloped linen-chambray shorts, $115




Travel Hidden BEACH Through a craggy opening in coral limestone, a secluded beach with pastel sand in barbados.


| WINTER 2019/2020 |


COURTYARDBYMARRIOTTPORTOFSPAIN In the heart of the capital, a warm hotel with a lovely, welcoming staff

below) and pumpkin chokha (sauteed pumpkin with spices) served alongside traditional continental regulars (cereal, bread, pastry, eggs, bacon) allow a taste of familiar with the more exotic. Lunch and dinner offerings include everything from chicken wings, flatbread and burgers to generous portions of meat and vegetarian curry with vegetables and rice, Italian inspired pasta dishes and fresh grilled fish with mashed potatoes. Gregarious Stephon, a young waiter at the restaurant is both professional and attentive, all while informing guests about what musts there are to see, do and eat for a true "Trini experience" while on island (doubles, the local street food top the list).

ROOMS The 119 guest rooms and suites are modern and spacious, with modern tech outlets ideal for the business traveler and the soft white, beige, blue and green colour palette in rooms echo the

OVERALL The often overused term of “a hotel making guests feel like family” is not out of place at this newly renovated property just a 45 minute drive from Piarco International Airport. Resembling a small boutique hotel, staff here are courteous, thoughtful and engage with guests on a personal level creating an atmosphere of luxury, without the price tag. Rather than a formulaic ‘box store’ hotel, the property has gone to lengths to incorporate local purveyors and artisans with furniture and artwork that add authenticity and sense of place. Dark wood chairs are offset by brightly coloured paintings of local fruit, carnival dancers and cricketers on the field.

Caribbean landscape. For long stay guests, book the one bedroom courtyard suite, a 702 square foot home away from home complete with kitchen, dining and living area, separate bedroom with balcony, king bed and large bathroom with walk-in shower and double sinks.

DINING The adherence to local also extends to the menu at Centro, the on-site restaurant serving breakfast and an all day menu. Local dishes at breakfast like accra (salt cod fritters, see image

...................................................................... ...................................................................... ...................................................................... The Details

The property is approximately 10 minutes from downtown Port of Spain. Guests will also find a business centre, 24 hour market, valet or self service coin laundry, fitness facility, and outdoor pool. Invaders Bay, Audrey Jeffers Highway, Port of Spain Trinidad and Tobago; – S.M.

C SL GR EEN TIPS Program your thermostat to turn down while you are away on vacation. / Turn off the water shut-off valve in your home while you travel. ›› | WINTER 2019/2020 | 37

Or, in the land of Riri, rum, and rhythm, is a rum shop more apt a comparison? On a journey around the island our author seeks to find out.



| WINTER 2019/2020 |

F YOU COME TO UNDERSTAND a rum shop, and heed its lessons, you’ll have the best education in the world. That this is true is not so much irony as extrapolation. An acknowledgement that a place which precariously and constantly skirts the edge between private and public, tasteful and coarse, honourable and reckless, may also, if you so will it, leave you joyfully untouched by its teetering. There will be easy things to learn and some more difficult and many that you will remember all the days of your life. Like how to pour a nip without spilling a drop, fill old glass jars with homemade tamarind balls, and remove a crown cap from a cold beer in one swift movement with the built-in opener beneath the counter. Or, how to mark up goods, and write the names of regular customers on newspapers, in case they sell out and how to place orders with weekly delivery trucks and sometimes with sellers on foot. Or again, to awaken at any hour of the day or night to heed the call, “Tantie,” although the louvres are shut and the entire household asleep. But, what you will know, more than any of this, is that all you'll ever meet in this "mote of dust, suspended in a sunbeam” are, in West Indian parlance, rum shop characters. And, the essence of a rum shop is merely this – to be courteously assertive to all without losing the respect of any – to dissolve mind in heart. “Rum shops began with people sacrificing their living rooms. A rum shop is not a bar. The vibe of a rum shop is different – it is the corner store for the village and the place to talk politics, sports, gossip. It’s my favourite place,” says Chesterfield Browne, International Brand Ambassador for Mount Gay Rum Distilleries. There are hundreds of rum shops across Barbados, as there are on most Caribbean islands but quite possibly they are the heart of Bim. A legal deed of 1703, which included a pot still house, established Mount Gay and consequently the island, as the oldest producer of rum. “Barbados and rum go hand in hand,” continues Browne. Alongside a couple from St. Lucia, inside the recently reconstructed great house, destroyed by fire a few years ago, Browne gives an oratory before taking us to see the well, the factory, and finally the aging warehouse. There we meet the affable master blender, Trudiann Branker, the first female to hold the position at the company. After knocking a barrel open with a mallet, we are invited to mix aged rum from a column still (weighty and dark with notes of vanilla and summer fruit) with the remarkably different pot still (light with floral and citrus notes). I am given a vial of my blend capped with red wax as a memento. To try the much discussed house range however, I go to lunch at the visi-


tors centre. While the tasting is generous, the overall experience seems out of sync with the carefully constructed image of Remy Cointreau. In its most basic form, rum is nothing more than water, sugar cane, and yeast. An elixir of the visible and invisible, for time too plays a role. How these combine and the machinations that brought them here is, in large part, the relatively recent story of Barbados. Before the indentured labourers from England, Ireland and Scotland, before the slaves, before this was a British army outpost, even before sugar, there were Caribs and Arawks. They existed too long ago as far as anyone is concerned for they are often mentioned as mere interlopers in the history of Barbados. This, although their middens are full of flying fish, it is they who gave a taste for mauby, their bridge which gave the capital its name, they who worshipped the silk cotton tree, so that to this day no one dare cut it down, and it is their word hurricane which was loaned to the English language. Of course, you meet a place where it is, and today, rum, sea, sun are tourist shorthand for the enticements of Barbados. Few venture beyond the seen-and-be-seen Platinum coast or the relaxed south. There is of course, plenty more to this island. Its eleven parishes each centre on a church. St. Michael's reveals a gorgeous wooden vault and St. John's has a storied cemetery, gothic revival architecture and beautiful grounds. Parish names serve as a vernacular compass, so that locals will tell directions by them, or reference them as their birthplace. Persistent British settlement has made much of quiet Bridgetown seem familiar with its 19th century parliament buildings of stone brightened with mint green shutters, its Lord Nelson statue leading toward the market where men are bent over a spirited game of dominoes. Scotland district too is déjà-vu to those accustomed to grazing cows amidst grass turned electric by sunlight. The longstanding British influence is most remarkable when patois names and phrases are met by blank stares — the French never had a foothold here. There are surprises all over the island too — oilfields in the countryside, dwarf coconut groves in an effort to revive agriculture, a baobab tree in Queen's Park said to have come from Africa as a seed hundreds of years ago. Then there are the trucks piled high with sargassum, seaweed that began to appear across the region in 2011, which men spend hours in the hot sun to remove from beaches. It has brought rarely seen species and made flying fish scarce and expensive. All in all, Barbados is easy. The war correspondent Alexander Gault MacGowan’s wife penned a column under the nom de plume, Humming Bird, noting in 1930, “…there is no doubt that in the minds of most persons quali-

fied to judge, Barbados is a finer place to live. I have myself catechized three or four persons who have spent a pretty long time in many West Indian islands, and they all say that given their choice, they would choose Barbados. There is a something about the place.” What precisely that something is, it's hard to say, though some inscrutable combination of geography and geology is a clue. As Bajans are quick to point out, its easternmost position makes it not quite part of the Caribbean chain. Further distinguishing it from volcanic neighbours, it rose from the sea by tectonic plate movement — a coral limestone island protected all round by reefs. While there are springs, the island has little surface water. Peter Stevens, President of the Barbados National Trust explains this phenomenon as he gestures to a drip stone, a water purifier from plantation days. It is a rectangular enclosure where two large tapering stone basins are fitted one above the other while a marble basin sits in the third chamber. "This replicates what happens underground, above ground," he says. Drip by drip, water filters through the porous limestone to create underground aquifers, or, in this case, potable water. A group of 13 has assembled outside George Washington House, part of the Garrison Historic Area. America's first president stayed in this house as a young man, marking the only time he left his country. Two major experiences in Barbados forged a man who would lead the revolutionary army to victory: he was inoculated by having contracted small pox (a major concern during the war) and he gained an understanding of the valuable sugar assets of the British which they would divert resources to defend against the French. Stevens, though, cautions against overestimating the role of Barbados in Washington's life. To protect the stronghold on Barbados and the Windward and Leeward islands the garrison was eventually built in 1789 as the British army's headquarters. The even older Charles Fort from the 1650s sits on the grounds of the Hilton compound. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the massive area is difficult to grasp today because the old army roads have been paved and all manner of modern buildings superimposed.


Clockwise from top right: Sunset at a rock outcrop on the beach; lobster stuffed breadfruit at Cocktail kitchen; Kaia serves a drink at Arlington House Museum; the view from a lookout point at Welchman Hall Gully; Anthony Hunte on the verandah at his home at Hunte’s Gardens. | WINTER 2019/2020 | 39


Clockwise from top left: Morgan Lewis Windmill; a green sea turtle seen from Calabaza Sailing Cruises; Peter Stevens, President of the Barbados National Trust at Charles Fort; Chris at the Bridgetown fish market; a chattel house in the countryside; pounding waves on the south coast; chef Patrina at Animal Flower Cave; Trudiann Branker and Chesterfield Browne of Mount Gay Rum; Rasheed Pilgrim at Codgrington College.

Below ground, it is another story, an estimated 10 000 foot long tunnel system lay forgotten and undisturbed for decades. It was built beneath the savannah (now a racetrack) in the 19th century as a drainage system to combat malaria and yellow fever and as an escape system if the island were ever invaded. As I walk through the portion open to the public I am impressed by the pristine compression arch overhead. Understandably, military history abounds in all the places we pause for a visit. There are maps of U boats in nearby waters during WWII, Christmas-coloured barracks which altered and adapted the British temperate style to the tropical climate so that it was eventually exported throughout the empire, and an animated recreation of the changing of the sentry in front of the Georgian main guard house is watched over by kind guard Winfield Boyce. Cannons are the most common sight and they keep turning up. Stevens takes us to see the rarest one, which elicits excited pictures from the assembled crowd. The Commonwealth Cannon is one of two surviving (the other is in the Tower of London) as most were destroyed by Charles II. Emblazoned with Oliver Cromwell's coat of arms it attests to the acceptance of Cromwell's authority by the signing of a charter in Mermaid Tavern in Oistins in 1652. Later, Stevens encapsulates his vision for the National Trust, which has introduced programs to engage and immerse visitors in the island’s history and culture. "We want to listen to the community instead of dictating."

UM PUNCH IS THE UNIVERSAL welcome drink of Barbados (or the non-alcoholic fruit punch). It is served at St Nicholas Abbey, under the shade of a sandbox tree. Notable for its Jacobean mansion, the site also boasts a menagerie of parrots and cockatoos that screech hello, a house rum (tasting), and, the newest offering, a heritage train ride. Winding its way toward the allée of mahogany trees at Cherry Tree hill, the route was carved from ever-present coral, exposing bleached fossils along the way. Over the speakers, Cindy Trudge points to cleared areas earmarked for expansion — there will be a fishing pond, over there an outdoor auditorium, a pavilion for weddings, and so forth. Conductor Michael Brown halts the antique former Java sugar train at the platform for photos and lively stories. Catching a glimpse of the train, a tourist bus stops and someone passes through the chain link gate, summarily tossing a silver coin in crewman Jeremy Braithwaite’s direction. His quizzical look before returning it seems to say: to stoop for mere money?


It was not so long ago, that gullies provided all that was needed to survive — bush medicine, shelter, food, water and firewood. Much of Barbados' natural diversity is found in these repositories where rainwater collects and replenishes aquifers, and native flora and fauna find habitat. Predating sugarcane, this is how much of the island looked. Welchman Hall Gully represents one of these remaining gullies, once the plantation of Asygell WIlliams. There is an ongoing project to reintroduce native plants and as I enter a rooster, turkey and hen seemingly usher me toward the turtles and rabbits further back. Along a paved pathway, though many of the signs are not discernible, I am able to make out a grove of nutmeg by the bright red tendrils of enveloping mace; the swizzle stick tree its short circular branches once cut and cleaned, become an implement for stirring cocktails; and fierce looking palms, their thorns protruding ominously. Steps, now blocked off, once led to Harrison's Cave next door, but there are enough stalagmites and collapsed caves to keep me occupied on this side. From a lookout 270 meters above sea level, groves of coconut slope toward the eastern coast, until sky and sea are indistinguishable. Most of Barbados is flat, so these handful of ridges and "hills" are splendid things that, if more common, would be relished less. Finding them becomes something of a quest, made especially lovely when least expected, like at Andromeda Botanic Gardens, when, through a clearing framed by palm trees and candlestick cassia, a sliver of sea plays peek-a-boo. This, along with the boulders scattered throughout, confirm the allusion to the Greek goddess whose punishment was being chained to rocks before the sea. I realize at once what founder Iris Bannochie evoked through her garden design – startling beauty. Beginning in 1954, on what was family farmland, Bannochie created a 6-acre garden surrounding her holiday home near Tent Bay, Bathsheba. Collecting plants from around the world, she won multiple awards for her design including at the Chelsea Flower Show in London, eventually opening the property to the public as a local nursery and garden. The jade vine from the Philippines, which I am looking forward to seeing, has sadly been damaged by a recent storm but heliconia, hibiscus, succulents and the bearded fig (whence the island got its name) joyfully coexist beside a palm grove, thatch roof gazebo and lotus pond. Bannochie is widely considered the doyenne of garden design in Barbados and continues to inspire. "Iris was the guiding light," says a local gardener speaking in reverential tones about the late founder. Down at St Lawrence Gap, it is a little like Punta Mita or Cornwall. A plethora of restaurants, condos and modern conveniences line

narrow streets bordering the ocean. Development has thankfully not dissuaded the whistling frogs from their nightly chorus. They are at a crescendo when I enter Cocktail Kitchen lead by executive chef Damian Leach. It encapsulates the area's laid back coolness. Upstairs there are a few tables overlooking the gap. Part bar, part Bajan home cooking, it is the sort of place that would trend toward the young and hip in other parts of the world, but its fun atmosphere attracts a well-rounded crowd of visitors and locals, young and old. A mango chow cocktail with hints of heat and sweet pairs nicely with seasoned, spiced popcorn to start. Manager Kyle and server Malik provide polite, unobtrusive service bringing out tapas style bites of updated classics: a slender slice of roasted breadfruit topped with chunks of lobster, a curry of plump seafood, char grilled sea cat (the playful Bajan name for octopus) and smoked black belly lamb as tender as the risotto on which it sits.

UM SHOP BACCHANAL IS THE stuff of calypso. Sung and celebrated for a season and then forgotten. Rum shop lessons last a lifetime. Before the days of credit cards, rum shop goods were purchased on credit. Christmas ham, salted beef, cheese, pounds of sugar, flour, rice, all and sundry marked in a lined book for later. Perhaps all that you may possess is what you give away. The Barbadians I meet certainly seems to think so. “Yes, please,” is the standard greeting as locals look you in the eye and wait to listen. Once, by the roadside I am given so much fruit destined for the market that I must refuse some. In Speightstown near the sleepy esplanade, a lady hearing I need water to wash fruit offers me some from her purse. I had just come from Arlington House Museum and sweet attendant Kaia had made me an Italian drink, insisting that she decorate it meticulously. Rent a car and certain sights become recognizable —roundabouts flanked by a statue, the most famous depicting Bussa, an emancipated slave; the spent shells of coconut vendors piled up near their stands on the highway; portable chattel houses elevated on coral limestone blocks.


“Therearehundredsofrum shopsacrossBarbados,as thereareonmostCaribbean islandsbutquitepossiblythey aretheheartofBim.” | WINTER 2019/2020 | 41

While the island is only 14 miles wide and 21 long, it’s fairly easy to be alone. In Bathsheba, apart from a group of surfers in the water, I am the only person about. So too at shark hole where an opening in the craggy shoreline makes for a picturesque beach at low tide, on narrow cart roads where cane hedgerows imitate, in tropical style, the bramble of their English counterparts, and at Gun Hill Station before a glorious downpour. There is an unmistakable quality of silence here — which prompts a singular, recurring thought – well, this is a nice place to be. This comes to its apogee on the windswept northernmost coast of whitecapped waves where the island's Pleistocene past is laid bare. Wooden pallets made into fencing line the driveway to Animal Flower Cave. Black belly sheep graze in a pen, and above the rocky outcrop there are signs tacked onto a tree pointing in every direction toward destinations as diverse as Uruguay and Antigua. The restaurant follows the rocky shoreline and I begin with Banks beer and excellent fish cakes, neither too doughy nor too soft. Ingenious thin-sliced breadfruit is made into a taco enfolding fish and cabbage. A seafood soup tastes of a multitude of spices and herbs though chef Patrina humbly insists it is only a few ingredients put together. Animal flowers are the local term for sea anemones. Descending into the cave system with a guide, I peer into a rock pool where one opens and closes like a New Year’s fireworks display. Barbados has always figured in family lore — a place ingrained in my imagination all my life. “These tiny million year old worms” (as they were known to a child) are one of the touchstones of that initiation. Lifting my head I see the ocean pounding at the porous coral. This constant force has carved an opening which makes for beautiful silhouettes in the cave — the work of water. Morgan Lewis Sugar Mill is the work of sugar. More precisely, it is the work of men and women to satiate England’s sweet tooth. Seemingly protruding from flowerbeds, its hewn stonework is still a marvel. One of only two operating sugar windmills in the world, it was built in the 1700s, fell into disuse in the mid-twentieth and following a massive reconstruction effort is now the largest and only complete example in the Caribbean. During the crop season the sails, made of termite resistant greenheart, are put in and sugar is pressed for visitors, though for hurricane season they are dismantled. “Our ancestors worked to build the structure,” says Steve Barnett, keeper of the windmill and Grind Artisan cafe with his family. At once formal and familiar, well-raised in that courteous Caribbean manner, his is more insinuation than outright statement. 42

| WINTER 2019/2020 |

Over excellent handmade fish and meat pies, he tells the story of the plantation's operation. In terms of mechanics, wind energy is transferred to a main spindle which powers a series of cogs and main wheel which pressed the sugar cane twice as only sixty percent was extracted on the first run. From there the juice flowed to the nearby sugar boiling house where the liquid slowly evaporated. In human terms, the toll was vastly more onerous. “People operated the plantation – men to grease the wheels, women and oxen to counterbalance and move the tail tree, people in the sugar boiling house loading bagasse as fuel. The slaves were always singing to help with the work and rhythm. You see the dangers—carelessness could lead to death.” Although he never uses so many words, he invokes a sense of compassion, to feel and not just see what it must have been like. As we climb the stairs to the highest point in the mill, remnants of grease still darken the walls. From this vantage point, I can see the numerous cars that do not stop long enough to connect with the place. “Our grandparents wanted to get out of sugar because it was very hard work and with mechanization, the industry suffered. People come and take pictures and don’t appreciate the history, even the locals,” he laments.



Handmade by bartender Vivian at Bar 1887 at The Crane Resort.


Specially made by Jeremy at Cerulean, Sea Breeze Beach House.


Chef Patrina at Animal Flower Cave knows her flavours (try the Bajan fish cakes).


The National Trust’s Grind Café operate at several of its properties (dilute with water!).


Big Up Bajan Breakfast at Yellow Bird Hotel – satisfying and hearty.


Grilled Cheese Sandwich station at Mahogany at Sea Breeze Beach House.

T WAS UPON THIS VERY OCEAN that rum and sugar were once (and sometimes still now) transported. Equally for my eyes accustomed to snow drifts, the sea is a homecoming, a long exhalation. Fish skim the surface of the water at the port in Bridgetown as I wait to board Calabaza Sailing Cruise with a group, all of whom are from Britain. Morning and evening trips are limited to 12 guests respectively and the feeling of personalized privacy began with a shuttle from my hotel. Immediately and throughout food and drinks are offered by Amory and Diego. Skipper Aaron Alkins points out the careenage, where, in the past, boats were turned to scrape barnacles from their sides and repair them. Reclaimed land has erased Pelican Island and created what is now the Bridgetown Deep Water Harbour. Alkins navigates at times with what must be his signature showmanship move – foot on steering. Eventually, Carlisle Bay, once the major port, now a recreational water hub, comes into view. We anchor where the water graduates from robin's egg blue to navy. Hawksbill and green turtles surface and a sting ray flitters by as we cut the engine.



Clockwise from right: A beautiful spread from Sea Breeze Beach House; the changing of the sentry at the Garrison Historic Area; the parliament buildings in Bridgetown.

The crew chats with guests and ensures that everyone is happy and comfortable in an easygoing manner. Turning slightly, Alkins then lines up the catamaran between two shipwreck sites – some in the group snorkel, others merely tread water, others laze in the front trampoline net and a comfortable lull pervades. As the sails finally go up, we glide toward darkening rain clouds. On land, royal palms signify a former plantation and the procession that graces the entranceway to Codgrinton College is regal. Impressive too the silk cotton trees, their buttress trunks reflected in the spring-fed lake that drains into a stream. Rasheed Pilgrim takes me on a tour of the theological college, the oldest in the English speaking Caribbean. It was completed in 1743 though for several decades prior, it had been Christopher Codrington's family home. The property has a Gainsborough quality that his brushstrokes would surely have captured had fortune deigned it otherwise. Nearby Hunte's Gardens is a ziggurat in reverse — a slow descent by stairs and ramps to the bottom of a sink hole. The entire garden is chocka-block with plants so that the downward spiral is fantastical rather than disorienting. It embodies, it seems to me, the Anatole France sentiment, if the path be beautiful, let us not ask where it leads. To one side a reclining frog spits water from his mouth, to the other vivacious pink quill imitate an antique fan, here pink trumpet vine cascade in frothy insouciance and there bromeliads flower in protective miniature. On one of the highest points on the island, this former sugar plantation was slowly transformed by owner Anthony Hunte, though every now and again evidence of its past shows through — engravings on the wrought iron weighing bridge, ballast bricks, taiche pans, the transformed stable. It is clear that Hunte has the innate aesthetic of an artist and he tells me that he started collecting plants at 27, and he is now 78. This lifetime obsession means that even on Christmas day, the garden does not close. All money is spent on plants, and he uses compost rather than chemicals. He explains that the curious sight of foil fastened around poinsettia is for air layering, to prepare a cutting. Hunte is ever present, chatting with guests whether in the garden or at his home. On the breezy side of the verandah the conversation breezes between topics with a group from abroad, drinks in hand. Hummingbirds drink from trumpet flowers and a troop of monkeys prance through the overgrowth. Hunte holds court with his encyclopedic knowledge of England's gardens. At times, small clusters break apart to speak about an employee strike that's made the news, memories of a beach wedding, a malaria vaccine — the banal and profound. Frequently, Hunte interjects, “what a beautiful day.” A rum shop is many, many things, but for one brief moment, this is all itCis. SL | WINTER 2019/2020 | 43


Where to Stay in Barbados


Twilight, and joyful alignment — the moon overhead is full as I float in mauve water warmed all day by the sun, not a single wave perturbs this natural saltwater pool. A step away is Sea Breeze Beach House a 122-room, family-owned, all-inclusive, and part of a three-hotel portfolio. It achieves what the best stays are meant to — making you want to linger in sublime relaxation whether at its several restaurants and pools, chatting with staff or simply enjoying a rum punch on your balcony. DESIGN Following a recent multi-million dollar renovation, the hotel has emerged as a bright, fresh and light-filled foursome of buildings, including a new 44 luxury suite tower. A few traditional Caribbean gabled structures are interspersed throughout its 3acres. Overall Sea Breeze manages to feel intimate and still impress. Consistently, shades of cheerful blue juxtaposed with vibrant orange echo ocean and sky. The design forgoes a centralized theme in favour of vignettes: Adirondack chairs neatly lined up to take in ocean views; curtains that transform sitting areas into a stage; a pentagonal gazebo angled just so for weddings vows. LOCATION A stroll to Oistins in one direction or St. Lawrence Gap in another places the hotel near the centre of Barbados’ south coast. Sophisticated rather than bohemian, there are lots of little nods to local culture including the unmistakable De Rum Shop. THE STAFF & GUESTS The warmth and generosity of staff makes this hotel. Steve, the bartender, who remembers just the drink I am looking forward to trying, Peggy who rearranges my appointments with autonomy and initiative, Sheree the supervisor at Mahogany who inquires after my evening canapé (one of the perks of staying in the tower), Jeremy who ensures my evening at Cerulean is “five star service.” DINING A choice of three restaurants makes dining here an endless surprise. Local cuisine has not been abandoned either. While I am here I sample a lovely black belly lamb stew, plantain, breadfruit and of course, flying fish. Do not discount Mahogany’s buffet either – the grilled cheese station alone makes it worth it. MAKE IT EVEN BETTER A technical glitch meant that the television listing the week’s activities was a month behind. There are lots of things going on here and I certainly did not want to miss out. BEST AMENITIES Apart from the weekly calendar of events including classes and tastings, there are daily water sports (sailing, kayaking, body boarding and snorkelling) available from the beach kiosk. There is a small gym and although there is no spa, inroom treatments (my massage is excellent) are available on request.


Clockwise from right: The all-inclusive’s beautiful beachside location; dessert with a view; a room inside the luxury tower; coral accents at Mahogany restaurant; a staff member mixes drinks at De Rum Shop.


Sea Breeze Beach House By Ocean Hotels Number of Rooms: 122 Number of Restaurants: 3

Maxwell Coast Road, Christ Church, Barbados, +1 246 428 9441;

Where to Stay in Barbados


OCEAN TWO RESORT AND RESIDENCES When I first arrive at this 88 room and suite resort, part of Ocean Hotels Group, it is night time and the facade is lit up to exaggerate its shining golden hues. Kind offerings of cooling towels and drinks are made at once by staff. Eventually, in my bedroom, I fall asleep to the cadence of the ocean.


Clockwise from above: Wraps and roti from Taste Restaurant; the rooftop patio with view of Oistins Bay; coral details in the decor; blooms at the pool.

DESIGN Oistins Bay is undoubtedly the star here and sight lines all focus in that direction: from the partial open air lobby, from the adultsonly rooftop patio, and from room balconies. THE STAFF & GUESTS As the property operates as a condo hotel there are families, small groups from neighbouring islands and couples. LOCATION Between Dover and Maxwell beaches, there is a sliver of white sand here, but the currents and waves are too large to facilitate swimming. Instead a meandering pool keeps water babies happy. DINING Barefoot on the beach, a small tent is set up for breadfruit night, one of the culinary highlights of my trip. Mirroring the local resurgence of breadfruit roasted over coals and then stuffed with all manner of traditional Caribbean fillings — smoked herring, buljol (shredded and seasoned salt cod), curry chicken, lamb stew, seafood — it is utterly delicious. Taste Restaurant offers a good breakfast, grab-and-go bites like wraps and rotis and local and international fare. The weekly manager’s cocktail party is a great way to sample the kitchen’s creations. MAKE IT EVEN BETTER The resort is busy at all times of day and night and upgrading the elevator would better assist guest flow. BEST AMENITIES There is nothing like a fully equipped kitchen to make me feel at home. Add an ocean view and it feels like the ultimate fusion of home and holiday.


HEAD CHEF RON MAYNARD, SEA BREEZE BEACH HOUSE, OCEAN HOTELS GROUP With the hotel group for 11 years, the chef who specializes in pastry, has worked at Le Gavroche and earned medals as part of the Barbados delegation to Taste of the Caribbean Culinary competition.

Favourite ingredient? Caribbean ingredients. Recently, we won the Nevis mango festival competition with a signature dish of shrimp, mango, sweet potato pudding and mango salsa. For the mystery basket we made fish and chips with breadfruit and red snapper. Most memorable meal? Anything local that guests enjoy. What ingredients are always in your fridge? Yam, sweet potato, cassava, herbs. What would your last meal be and with whom? Anything from my grandmother and with my son, he cooks too. Bajan soup is the best soup in the world, it is pumpkin coloured. Souse is amazing, it is not a delicacy anymore, it is a way of life. Now, every Saturday around the island in every rum shop, there is pudding and souse. The pudding is sweet potato, sugar, nutmeg, cinnamon, herbs, onions, browning and hot peppers – grated and steamed. Souse is pig tail, pig feet, lean of pork, ears, snout (all or a combination of, some people just like certain parts) in a sauce of cucumber, parsley, lemon or lime juice, salt and hot peppers – pickled. Why do you like working in pastry? Pastry is more technical, an art and craft. You get to do fancy stuff like craquelin on profiterole, ice cream, sorbets and petit fours. At Le Gavroche, I had the best soufflé I’ve ever come across – it was passion fruit. Here at De Rum Shop [at Sea Breeze Beach House] we make local pastries and sweets like rock cakes, lead pipes [a sweet bread], sugar cake, nut cake [nuts and sugar] and nut tart [with eggs and corn syrup]. Favourite rum shop? AA Bar.


Ocean Two Resort & Residences by Ocean Hotels Number of Rooms: 88 Number of Restaurants: 1

Dover Road St Lawrence Gap, Christ Church, Barbados; +1 246-418-1800; | WINTER 2019/2020 | 45


Where to Stay in Barbados


Blink-and-you'll-drive-past the tiny entrance marked by a blue mosaic sign to St. Lawrence Gap. It would be a shame though, to miss its vibrant nightlife with bustling restaurants, live cooking stalls and bars, or the splendid daylight view of fishermen plying their trade from hand painted boats floating in the bay. Most of all, it would be a shame to miss this relaxed 22-room resort on the south coast of Barbados. Visitors quickly become regulars and the casual vibe of the gap (as locals call it) pervades the resort itself.


| WINTER 2019/2020 |


Clockwise from left: The adjacent standalone accommodation which includes a penthouse suite; cocktails overlooking St. Lawrence Bay; fishing boats in the bay; the Big Up Bajan breakfast; aquatic accents inside the lobby.


Yellow Bird Hotel

Number of Rooms: 22 Number of Restaurants: 1

Saint Lawrence Gap Christ Church, Oistins, Barbados, + 1 246-622-8444;


DESIGN Begun as a hotel and hub for its previous owner's windsurfing passion, it has since been extended and refurbished, most recently in 2015 by its current owners. A sunny four-storey exterior hugs the small pool surrounded by tables, lounge chairs and umbrellas. A small kitchen garden growing hot pepper, herbs and tomatoes lines the pathway to the front desk and restaurant pavilion. At night an orchestra of whistling frogs croaks at such a pitch that it nearly subsumes all other sound. Before dawn, I spot green parakeets frolicking amongst the foliage of pride-of-Barbados, and a green throated hummingbird seeks nectar at dusk from night blooming jasmine. My top floor deluxe suite with a private roof deck is in a separate, neighbouring building and achieves a sort of illusory effect, so that from the large windows the bay seems eye-level. A full kitchen, two bedrooms and baths are efficiently casual allowing the vista of azure water to shine. THE STAFF & GUESTS Couples from neighbouring islands and abroad, and groups of young people gather near the pool. Locals and tourists pop into the in-house restaurant, On The Bay with some frequency. The mix makes this hotel feel locally rooted and lively. LOCATION Although there is no proper bathing beach here, the hotel is within walking distance of a string of breezy south coast beaches including Rockley beach, Crystal Waters Beach, and Dover Beach. DINING Framed by palms reflecting on the pool, On the Bay serves meals throughout the day. For the bed and breakfast option, the Big Up Bajan breakfast offers eggs, fried plantain, fried flying fish and bake (which to me resembled johnny cake) or toast is large and satisfying. Proper bucatini is used to make the macaroni pie, and don’t forget to order the chocolate cake. MAKE IT EVEN BETTER Perked coffee at breakfast, an elevator to go up to rooms would round out the offerings. BEST AMENITIES Forgot anything at home? The front desk has a broad range of amenities available. There is also a library at the front desk further reinforcing the community feel.

THE CRANE RESORT The Grande dame of Barbados hotels since 1887, the resort’s reputation was already so distinguished in the early twentieth century, that even the Barbados Light Railway Company Limited had to extend its line directly here. A village unto itself, the 40 acre resort on the southeastern part of island, recently partnered with Hilton Grand Vacations and new towers are being built which will greatly multiply its current 252 rooms.

DESIGN Turreted multi-storey edifices each centre on a courtyard with a central fountain (from which green herons like to drink). Pathways lead to various enclaves — a plaza with restaurants, reception, shopping, the 1.5 acre pool area, or to the precipice of the coral limestone bluff on which the resorts sits. Steps or an elevator take guests down to the beach. When I visit, the current is strong and waves pound the shore, but the setting sun accentuates the pastel pink sand, and local fishermen appear as silent silhouettes. Rooms take their cue from simple colonial style with four-poster beds, jalousie windows, slip covered sofas and mahogany furniture. My two bedroom suite with pool offers modern efficiencies including a full washer and dryer, jacuzzi and kitchen. THE STAFF & GUESTS With its timeshare component and the recent association with the Hilton brand, the resort attracts


Hertz Car Rental (barbados)/Courtesy Rent A Car Reliable vehicle service, wide choice and a convenient airport location. Grantley Adams International Airport, +1 246 431 4173;

Where to Stay in Barbados


families, groups and couples mainly from America, Canada and Britain. LOCATION Once an important commercial port, the beach and hotel take their name from the cranes that would load sugar and rum onto boats setting sail for England. History is ever present with steps to the horse (the 18th century word for a ladies' bathing pool) still intact, the old stables and original guest rooms. DINING Zen's floor to ceiling windows perched above the beach, where I dine one evening make for an inspiring setting. So too the screened private banquettes. A manager's reception, held weekly, is a lively gathering although nothing compares to Bar 1887's energy on Friday and Saturday nights when mixologists like Vivian keep locals and visitors entertained and welcomed. MAKE IT EVEN BETTER Sightseeing is a taxi ride away whether to Bridgetown, the south or the Platinum coast. BEST AMENITIES There is so much choice no matter your interests. CLASSIC SETTING

From top: dinner at Zen; the gorgeous landscaped seaside bluff on which the resort sits.

won multiple awards at the Chelsea Flower Show. This six acre garden features native and exotic plants. bathsheba, St Joseph, +1 246 433 9384;


The Crane Resort

Number of Rooms: 252 Number of Restaurants/ Dining: 7

St. Philip, Barbados; +1 246-423-6220;

Calabaza Sailing Cruises Luxury, small group (12 maximum) catamaran cruises with informative, friendly crew, shuttle service, food and drink and snorkeling. +1 246 826 4048;

Arlington House Museum In an 18th century merchant house, this newly opened exhibit showcases the origins of sugar on the island among other historical aspects. Speightstown, +1 246-422-4064;

Codrington College Guided tour of this grand, historic theological college with impressive grounds and ocean views. St. John, +1 246 416 8051;

Animal Flower Cave picturesque cliffside setting with delicious restaurant, pounding waves and underground cave system known for its sea anemones (animal flowers). Northpoint, Saint Lucy, +1 246439-8797;

The barbados National Trust A collective of eight local sites aimed at preserving the history and natural heritage of barbados. +1 246 426 24 21;

St. Nicholas Abbey Jacobean mansion plantation house with museum, rum distillery, and Heritage Railway. Cherry Tree Hill, St peter, +1 246 422 5357;

The Historic Garrison Tour Guided walking (and bus) tour of this uNESCO World Heritage Site including site visits to George Washington House, tunnels, and the Commonwealth cannon. barbados Garrison Historical Consortium, +1 246 233 2601/1648;

Gun Hill Signal Station One of several semaphore stations used to communicate about civil unrest, hurricane threats and other information vital to colonial rule at the time. Gun Hill, Fusilier Road, St. George, +1 246 429 1358/3235;

bridgetown peruse the capital’s markets, parliament buildings, churches, and parks.

Hunte’s Gardens A spectacularly vibrant, lush tropical garden located in hills of St. Joseph, the bulk of the gardens was created in a sinkhole. Owner Anthony Hunte personally greets guests with spirited enthusiasm and warmth. Castle Grant, St. Joseph, +1 246 4333333;

Morgan Lewis Windmill The largest intact sugar windmill in the Caribbean with machinery dating from the 18th century. Morgan Lewis, St. Andrew, +1 246 622 4039; Welchman Hall Gully Self-guided tour along a paved pathway through a gully, a natural forested area that once provided food, shelter, medicine and water for bajans. Welchman Hall, St. Thomas, +1 246 438 6671;


Andromeda Gardens Legacy of barbados gardening legend Iris bannochie, who


Cocktail Kitchen Fun, lively spot known for modern takes on classic barbados cuisine from executive chef Damien Leach. St. Lawrence Gap, +1 246 622 3017; Mount Gay Distillery and Visitor’s Centre The Historic Distillery Tour showcases the rum making process while the tasting and lunch offers visitors a sampling of the company’s full range. +1 246 227 8864; CSL | WINTER 2019/2020 | 47

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