City Style and Living Magazine Winter 2017/18 by City Style and Living

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CITY WINTER 2017/18 | V O L u M E 1 1 I S S u E 1 | C O N T E N T S

STYLE and LIVING COVER STORIES

13 A GREAT WINE TO TRY CABERNET FRANC 24-25

FLAWLESS FACE

44-56 INSIDER’S AZORES CSL AROuND THE CITy

9 HEALTHY LIVING

Make your own shampoo for healthy hair plus a great travel and eco-toothbrush

10 BOOKCASE

3 great new reads to add to your collection CSL FOOD

12 FUSION

Great new products to add to your pantry including a unique salt, and a delicious but rare maple syrup

14-21 KITCHEN

ese sweet treats include twists on classic macrons, éclairs and more

COLOURFUL MEXICO! Escape the winter blues with a trip to sunny Puerto Vallarta. Water sports, friendly locals and amazing cuisine make it a great choice. P40-41

CSL FASHION

23-27 HELEN OF

TROY How to achieve the latest beauty looks of the season including moody vamp, and rimmed eyes

28 TREASURE TROVE e best new beauty products

29 PRET A PORTER CSL’s winter style guide!

33-36 ST YLIST

CSL breaks down the trends of the season: polka dots, stars, handbags and sheer fabrics CSL TRAVEL

38 PASSPORT

In-ﬂight essentials, a cruise in Banﬀ and driving in style

39 TOUR GUIDE

Star of Major Crimes, Graham Patrick Martin talks travel, giving back and more

42-43 HOTELS

Two Toronto landmark hotels

IN EVERy ISSuE

6 FROM THE EDITORS

57 FINAL THOUGHT

K&S MEDIA

C SL GR EEN TIPS Get your mechanic to clean or replace your air filter. / Try a tankless water heater. / Consider rice paper or bamboo stick blinds. › citystyleandliving.com | WINTER 2017/18 | 3

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NEWS, STYLE AND BEAUTY TIPS, RECIPES AND MUCH MORE!

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THE EDITORS NOTEBOOK

TRAVEL

Earth is a beautiful heaven

K&S Media

Publisher K & S Media

Designer Chris Schultz

Editors-in-Chief Kailash Maharaj and Shivana Maharaj

Managing Editor/Director of Advertising Dr. Rookmin Maharaj

Editorial Assistant Emily Hunt Creative Director Georgina Wong

Contributors Amber Alent Steven Busch Marc Duncan Natalie Fox Arianna Grace Genvieve Magbi James S. Sinclair

Photo Director Darrel Mellow

Publisher K & S Media - Earth is a Beautiful Heaven

Fashion and Beauty Editor Shivana Maharaj

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Publications Agreement No. 41599042 City Style and Living is published four times each year. No part of this publication may be reproduced by any means in whole or in part without the prior written consent of the publisher. Although every eﬀort is taken to ensure accuracy, K & S Media cannot be held responsible for any errors, or omissions that may occur. The magazine assumes no responsibility for the safekeeping or return of unsolicited manuscripts, photographs, artwork or other material. All rights reserved 2017/18. A proudly Green Magazine.

C SL GR EEN TIPS Install an at-home charcoal filter and reverse osmosis filter. / Save up to 568 litres of water per month by shortening your shower by only a minute or two. ›› 4

| WINTER 2017/18 | citystyleandliving.com

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WELCOME FROM THE EDITORS

EMbRACING WINTER

A winter wonderland.

N EARLY NOVEMBER SOMEONE ACCUSTOMED TO A FALL characterized by lots of rain, turning leaves and a slow decrease in temperature, came to my hometown. It was freezing and there was a pile of snow half a metre high. The roads, even for a place that regularly gets its first snowfall in October, were deemed treacherous. Outside the temperature was -11°C though, with the wind chill, it felt much colder. To someone unaccustomed to this version of fall, in a temperate climate, it was quite a shock. “Crazy cold,” and “bloody freezing,” was how this person described the weather. Even to those who have grown up with a fall that is actually identical to winter, emerging much earlier it seems than elsewhere on the planet, and lasting much longer, it takes a certain adjustment. By February there is a sort of frenetic cabin fever, though the complaints begin much earlier. At times they take the form of casual sarcasm or pointed disappointment at the cold and endless snow. “Is winter ever going to end?” seems to be the consensus (well into April). Often with light fading early and being scarce, there is a sense of depression that creeps into conversation. Indeed, casual conversation seems always to veer toward the weather, and not in a complimentary fashion. Part of the ennui has to do with conditions long after the first snowfall has turned the landscape into a snow globe: pristine snow takes on a muddy, splotchy, grey appearance; snowmen become misshapen with a CSL

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strange and unnatural rotundity, noses haplessly fallen on the ground, their scarves forgotten somewhere; precarious black ice accumulates where Chinooks have melted and freezing temperatures have solidified what was once a blanket of snow. For many, the beauty lasts briefly, if at all. Embracing winter takes a bit of creative inspiration. I know someone who always hated the season and complained ferociously about it for years. Although this person skied and regularly visited the mountains, the sheer length of winter and its inconveniences were still difficult to bear. Perhaps familiarity had bred contempt. Perhaps there was a sort of snow blindness that had occurred. Then, one day, she decided to take a positive attitude toward winter. A funny thing happened, she began to see the magic of the season. It is the same child-like glee and anticipation that I recognize in people who have never before seen snow. I know people raised in the tropics for whom the arrival of snow is consistently a magical event. The continuing saga of snowflakes, bracing temperatures and the stark landscape are things to be embraced. There is a sense of wonderment at something that they had never before experienced, had only seen in photos and could barely imagine. Winter comes but once a year and there is no other season like it. ‘Tis the season of magical transformation. CSL

— KAILASH AND SHIVANA

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CITY STYLE AND LIVING

Around e City WINTER DELIGHT

K&S MEDIA; AVENTURA

A blanket of snow is a magical event. Celebrate it with feasting, festivities and fun.

| WINTER 2017/18 | citystyleandliving.com

TOOTHBRUSH

YOU’LL EVER NEED

COURTESY RADIUS; STOREY PUBLISHING

I’ve been using the Original toothbrush from Radius for longer than any other toothbrush I’ve owned. The oversize bristles are ﬁrm but not too hard, the large handle is easy-togrip and the entire toothbrush is durable. Enter the Tour Travel Toothbrush. It is also made from woodbased plastic and the bristles are made from vegetable matter. What makes this an unbelievably great travel product is that the head tucks away inside the handle making it sanitary and space saving. Even better, the head is replaceable saving countless waste in the landﬁll.

RADIuS Tour Travel Toothbrush, $5.99; madebyradius.com

In need of a lifestyle shake up, let us show you how

THE ONLY TRAVEL

Healthy Living Ideas We Love

Soapwort Shampoo yield: 10–12 ounces (295–354 ml) This is an excellent all-purpose shampoo for all types of scalp and hair. It does not have tremendous lather, but it cleanses very well and has no chemicals whatsoever. Many Native American tribes used the root of soapwort to wash their hair. you may choose to infuse a couple of tablespoons (30 ml) of your favorite herbs along with the soapwort, if desired. 1

ounce (30 g) soapwort root 12 ounces (354 ml) of puriﬁed water 1 teaspoon (5 ml) base oil of your choice 15-60 drops essential oils of your choice, as conditions require

3. Add the base and essential oils to the container. Shake well before each use. This shampoo will keep for up to a week if refrigerated. To use: Shampoo, then follow with an herbal vinegar rinse. Oily scalp: you can eliminate the base oil from this shampoo if your scalp tends to be very oily.

Shampoo Formulas While conditioners are of primary importance for the hair, shampoos are of primary importance for the scalp. Of course, when giving yourself a shampoo, you work the lather through the lengths of hair, which will help remove styling products if you tend to use a lot of them. However, your goal should be to massage and cleanse the scalp, removing dead skin cells, sweat, pollution, and excess oil while encouraging the flow of nutrient rich blood to the hair roots. There are two different approaches to creating your own personalized shampoos. One is to add nutritive ingredients to a pure shampoo or castile or liquid glycerin soap that you purchase. The other method is to entirely create your own. Whichever you decide upon, choose the herbs or essential oils according to your scalp and hair type. pure Shampoo yield: 8–10 ounces (235–295 ml) The ingredients for this recipe are chosen for their desirable aromatic as well as therapeutic values. Some of my favorite formulations for specific conditions are outlined below. I encourage you to experiment with the herbs, essential oils, and other ingredients I’ve discussed so far, though, because the possible variations are tremendous. 1–2 tablespoons (15–30 ml) dried herbs of your choice 8 ounces (235 ml) purified water 2 ounces (60 ml) liquid castile or glycerin soap 1 teaspoon (5 ml) base oil of your choice (eliminate or reduce for oily conditions; increase for dry; 15–60drops essential oils of your choice, as conditions require

1. Crush the soapwort root in a mortar and pestle (or with the ﬂat side of a wooden spoon or large knife). 2. place the crushed root in the water in a stainless-steel pan. bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer for approximately 10 minutes. Remove from the heat, cool, then strain the liquid into an airtight bottle with a nozzle on top for dispensing.

MAKE YOUR OWN SHAMPOO

Excerpted from Naturally Healthy Hair, © by Mary beth Janssen. used with permission from Storey publishing.

1. Create a decoction or infusion of your desired herb or combinations of herbs. Remember that a decoction is used for roots, stems, and seeds, or more fibrous, tough plants, while infusions are used for more delicate plant parts, including leaves and flowers. If you are combining herbs that need different treatments, decoct and infuse them separately, then mix the herbalized liquids. For a decoction, place the herbs in water in a stainless-steel or glass pan. bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer on low for up to 10 minutes. Remove from the heat, let the mixture cool, strain off the liquid, and discard the spent herbs. For an infusion, bring the water to a boil. place the herbs in a stainless-steel or glass pan and pour the boiling water over them. Let steep for at least 20 minutes, then let the mixture cool (if it isn’t cool already), strain off the liquid, and discard the spent herbs. Tip: To increase the potency of the formula, let the herbs steep in the cooled liquid in an airtight container for a couple of days before straining and using. 2. Mix the herbal infusion or decoction with the soap, base oil, and desired essential oils. Shake well. Refrigerate the shampoo between uses, for up to a week, then discard. Adding 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of vodka to this mixture will add 2 to 3 weeks to its shelf life, as will adding 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of either vitamin E or wheat germ oil. To use: use the formula for every shampoo (see the eight-step instructions on pages 80–82). Shake well before each use. Additives: you can also add ingredients with properties (as described in chapter 5) suitable for your particular hair condition, such as apple juice, honey, egg, aloe vera, gelatin, glycerin, or lecithin. use 1 tablespoon (15 ml) per shampoo formula.

CSL GREE N TIPS Check for a toilet leak by adding a few drops of food colouring to the tank. Coloured water in the bowl signals a leak. / Choose an efficient car when buying. ›› citystyleandliving.com | WINTER 2017/18 | 9

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Great New Reads

CSL has you covered with holiday meals, planning trips, decluttering and spending time with all those things you love WANDERLUST

HEALTHY DINNERS

GO-TO COOKIES

Leader in Document Management for over 40 years in Western Canada.

Sheet pan Suppers Meatless 100 Surprising Vegetarian Meals Straight from the Oven by Raquel pelzel, $22.37

SERVICES: • Maintain Management Plan.

• Consult and assist in decision making to understand requirements for information management. • Create and publish training materials, user guides, FAQ's, cheat sheets. • Conduct business analysis of information flow and determine the appropriate document control processes to support the business process.

Ever wanted to explore a speciﬁc angle of a destination (like Aboriginal culture in british Columbia, or Hemingway's paris)? This informative and interactive book presents advice to do just that during 52 weekends. Lonely planet Culture Trails 1st Ed., by Lonely planet, $31.50 DECLUTTERING

HOLIDAY COOKING

• Collaborate with team members and other stakeholders to manage and protect their information. • Utilize project management skills to manage multiple projects/initiatives and provide progress reporting and status updates.

Fix-It and Forget-It Holiday Favorites: 150 Easy and Delicious Slow Cooker Recipes by Hope Comerford and bonnie Matthews, $31.76

• Liaise with external contractors to ensure that communication about documentation is received in a timely manner.

Remodelista: The Organized Home: Simple, Stylish Storage Ideas for All Over the House by Julie Carlson and Margot Guralnick, $27.67

• Maintain a current and data management system that is functional and user friendly and oversee the effectiveness of the EMPCM EDMS including systems support as well as the integrity of these systems.

FUN SELF DISCOVERY

LIFESTYLE

A book That Takes Its Time: An unhurried Adventure in Creative Mindfulness by Irene Smit and Astrid van der Hulst, $ 31.89

Wabi-Sabi Welcome: Learning to Embrace the Imperfect and Entertain with Thoughtfulness and Ease by Julie pointer Adams, $32.03

• Setup and manage document distribution matrix.

EASY MEALS

How to Instant pot Mastering All the Functions of the One pot That Will Change the Way you Cook by Daniel Shumski, $24.95

Cute Christmas Cookies: Adorable and delicious festive treats by Hannah Miles, $21.95

EXPLORING

The place To be by Lonely planet, $30.85

OH SO CUTE

• Manage all aspects of document control workflow processes for electronic and hard copy information.

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based on the popular blog and Instagram account, this coﬀee table book showcases a variety of photogenic puppies. This is an uplifting book that makes a great gift. Children and doglovers especially will love picking out their favourite breeds. The Dogist puppies by Elias Weiss Friedman, $31.38

COURTESY DANIEL THOMPSON; HEATHER BAIRD

OUR

CITY STYLE AND LIVING

Food

Start Your Day RIGHT K&S MEDIA

Take time each evening to prepare for breakfast the next day. Make a yogurt parfait and store it in the fridge, time your coﬀee machine, cut up fruit or set the table. Little tasks like this can set you up for a great day ahead. citystyleandliving.com | WINTER 2017/18 | 11

FUSION! WHERE TO EAT AND WHAT pRODuCTS TO TRy

pRODuCTS WE LOVE

RUNAMOK MERQUÉN INFUSED MAPLE SYRUP

There's maple syrup and then there's maple syrup that's a match made in heaven for food and cocktails. This Vermont produced cherrycoloured liquid infused with smoked Chilean chili peppers is layered with flavour. We loved it poured over chicken and waffles (yes, this is another level stuff)! Drizzling it over panfried salmon is a stroke of genius. The ultimate though is keeping it on hand and adding just a touch to cocktails. 250 ml, $16.95; runamokmaple.com 12

FEVER TREE TONIC WATER

Gin and tonic is a classic in any barman's repertoire. Without syrups, infusions or trendy garnishes to mask the flavour of the two star ingredients, it’s a simple drink that relies on the very best. The background bitterness of this tonic water and steady fizz made it great for mixing in mocktails and cocktails. The Fever Tree line includes gingerale and club soda both of which maintain their refreshing, crisp flavour and bubbles. 4-pack of 200 ml, $5.99; fever-tree.com

| WINTER 2017/18 | citystyleandliving.com

TRISCUIT NUTMEG & CINNAMON

Crackers are versatile. This limited edition offering takes the classic Triscuit to the next level with warming spices. Perfect for accompanying a cheese platter, these crackers also make a great appetizer. Spread with cream cheese and top with maple syrup glazed smoked salmon and garnish with chive. Alternatively, layer apple butter on a cracker, then place crisp bacon and add a thin slice of green apple. Triscuit.ca

QUALIFIRST DAVID'S SPECIAL STEAK RUB

Stored in our spice cupboard, this rub is so easy to grab and add to any dish that needs a lift. It provides a flavour jolt without added sodium or salt (so you won't feel like you are missing out). Especially good on meat and fish, the spice rub is also an unexpected addition to vinaigrette, sprinkled on hummus and as an unexpected twist on marinara sauce. 150g; qualifirst.com

Inspired by athletes' diets that are simple, nutritious and energy boosting, this granola is roasted to bring out the flavour of the oats. With a semi-soft texture and nutty taste, the granola has just the right amount of honey (meaning it is not too sweet). 350g, $8.00; eatprima.com

GHOST CHILI SALT

PRIMA ALMOND AND COCONUT GRANOLA

JACOBSEN INFUSED

There are few ingredients that will boost flavour as effectively and quickly as salt and chili. With a pleasant rose colour and large, delicate flakes, it takes just a pinch in rubs, stews, and marinade to achieve a slight background heat. This beautifully packaged jar is one among a line of unique salts (the Infused Black Truffle Salt in mashed potatoes, is the stuff of angels), sure to give your cooking an intriguing infusion. 136g; jacobsensalt.com

EDITORS PICK

IMBIBE W H A T ’ S N E W A N D G R E A T I N T H E W O R L D O F W I N E A N D S p I R I T S

CSL ! KEENAN WINERY 2013 MERLOT, NAPA VALLEY

Comprised of eighty percent Keenen Estate Merlot and twenty percent fruit from the Carneros region, this big wine delivers aromas of berry and dark fruit, with a build up to dark chocolate and intense coffee. keenanwinery.com

33%

NEW FRENCH AND AMERICAN OAK BARREL AGED

MENDOZA, ARGENTINA A blend of Malbec and Cabernet franc and iconic of the reTrapiche Iscay gion, T Malbec Cabernet Franc 2011 is a full bodied wine and deep purple colour hint at black currants, ripe dark red fruit and violets. The super concentrated ﬂavour is an ideal sipper for hibernating during winter, and with a slight balsamic hit, would be ideal with slow roasted meat or a rich chocolate cake. trapiche.com.ar

Grape of the Moment

The second most popular varietal in Argentina, Cabernet Franc from this region consistently score high on wine pulenta Estate lists. p Winery Cabernet Franc 2013 ($51) offers a well rounded smooth wine with spice and eucalyptus aromas thanks to 18 months in French oak. Its long ﬁnish and creamy tannins pair well with tomato based sauces, cheese and herbs. pulentaestate.com

CAbERNET FRANC

A medium body wine with structured acidity, it makes an ideal (holiday) pairing with food!

Used in the blending of Bordeaux style (along with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot), this grape variety lends elegance and pepperiness (think bell pepper and peppercorns), and has notes ranging from cassis to tobacco.

How to taste wine like a Sommelier by TONIA WILSON

As a certiﬁed sommelier Tonia Wilson is immersed in the wine world and through her experience has learned how to truly taste and appreciate wine. With her insider knowledge, you too can begin to navigate your way around Syrahs and Rieslings to taste wine like a sommelier. Here Wilson walks us through one of her Gabbiano’s Chianti Classico. Cheers! favourite wines, G

This winery located near Saint Helena, produces fine Napa Merlots. Its locaOwner Michael Keenan, tion, in the Keenan Winery, Napa Mayacama mountain range benefits from the dense fog which allows a consistent, warm temperature. This characteristic, along with the gravel soil and steep vineyards creates intense, rich wines.

AGRELO, ARGENTINA

Look at the c olour of the wine. Think about the depth of colour. Is it deep and dark, or light and transparent? These will tell you about the wine’s style, age and grape variety. Chianti is a medium ruby red, hinting at the Sangiovese grapes and youth.

Swirl & sniff 2/S

Swirl the glass and bring your nose in close. What are your first thoughts? Are the aromas bold or discreet? Does the wine smell young and fresh or does it smell like the grapes were ripe? Chianti immediately strikes me with aromas of fresh black cherry, dried herbs and a touch of spice.

3/ Fruit flavor Common aromas that

you may come across in white wine are: apple, peach, lemon, lime or fresh herbs. In reds, you may perceive notes of red berries: black currants, blueberry, cranberry and cherry (found in Chianti).

4/ Additional aromas You may also smell cedar, smoke, baking spices, and other aromas that come from the wine spending time in an oak barrel.

5/ Savour the sip

Take a sip! Swish it all through your mouth, along your gums, tongue and teeth. Swallow then open your mouth slightly. What’s going on? Do you taste the same flavours you smelled? Hopefully you do. Is the flavor big and warm with lots of alcohol, or gentle and easy to drink? Does that flavor last a long time, or is it short-lived? Is your mouth salivat-

ing after you swallow? If yes, this is a sign of good acidity in the wine. When you taste red wine, try to observe the effect of the tannins in your mouth. Tannins are found in the grape skins and oak, and give a drying effect to wine. They will make your mouth pucker and are exactly what pairs well with food. Enjoy!

CSL GR EEN TIPS Let dishes air dry instead of drying in the dishwasher. / Reserve water from cooked or steamed foods and reuse as a base for soup. ›› citystyleandliving.com | WINTER 2017/18 | 13

KITCHEN Oreo macarons

Dessert Heaven In her new book, Aimee Twigger provides 50 delicious recipes made even sweeter when they are shared. pHOTOGRApHS by AIMEE TWIGGER

| WINTER 2017/18 | citystyleandliving.com

Oreo macarons

Step-By-Step Guide With just a few pieces of equipment and pantry staples, you can easily whip up this modern take on a French classic

Makes 25 macarons prep time: 10 minutes Resting time: 20–60 minutes baking and assembly: 30 minutes For the macaron shells 1 cup almond meal 1 cups confectioners’ sugar 3 tablespoons Oreo crumbs (pull the Oreos apart and use the halves with out the cream ﬁlling; you will need 3– 4 halves) ¼ cup egg whites ½ teaspoon salt ¼ cup superﬁne sugar black food coloring For the buttercream 10 Oreo cookies 6½ oz (13 tablespoons) butter ¼ cup confectioners’ sugar FOR THE MACARON SHELLS: preheat the oven to 275°F and line the baking tray with baking paper or use a macaron mat.

put the almond meal into the food processor and pulse, then add the confectioners’ sugar and pulse again to form a fine powder (see figure 1). Transfer to a bowl for later. put the Oreo halves into the food processor and pulse to a fine crumb. Stir into the almond mixture. Whip the egg whites and salt until foamy, then add the superfine sugar a spoonful at a time. Whip until the mixture forms stiff peaks. Add a small amount of black food coloring to make the mixture a grey color (see figure 2). Sift in a quarter of the almond mixture and fold in (see figure 3), then repeat until it is all combined (try not to overwork the mixture).

1. PULSE the almonds and confectioners' sugar to form a ﬁne powder.

Spoon into a piping bag and pipe circles onto the baking tray. Tap the baking tray on the worktop a few times to pop any air bubbles, then leave the macarons for 20– 60 minutes to form a skin. bake the macarons for 20 minutes and then allow to cool.

2. WHIP the egg whites, salt, sugar and a touch of black food coloring until the mixture forms stiﬀ peaks.

3. SIFT in the almond mixture a quarter at a time, but try not to overwork the mixture.

4. PIPE the buttercream onto half of the macaron shells.

FOR THE buTTERCREAM: put 10 whole Oreos into the food processor and pulse to a ﬁne crumb. beat the butter in a bowl until soft, then mix in the confectioners’ sugar and Oreo crumbs (but reserve some of the crumbs for sprinkling). Spoon the buttercream into a piping bag. pipe buttercream onto half the macaron shells (see ﬁgure 4), sprinkle with Oreo crumbs and sandwich another macaron shell on top.

citystyleandliving.com | WINTER 2017/18 | 15

Oreo macarons

| WINTER 2017/18 | citystyleandliving.com

Violet and lemon éclairs

Step-By-Step Guide This is baking at its best – great to do with kids, full of fun and decoration

Makes 12 éclairs prep time: Flowers: 10 minutes, plus overnight to harden; éclairs: 20 minutes baking time: 35–45 minutes Decorating time: 10 minutes For the candied violets 24 violets ¼ cup superfine sugar 1 egg white For the choux pastry 6½ oz (1¼ cups) all-purpose flour 1½ tablespoons superfine sugar ¼ teaspoon salt 4½ oz (9 tablespoons) butter 1 cup water 4 eggs For the pastry cream 1 cup whipping cream Zest of ½ lemon 1½ tablespoons lemon juice 2¼ tablespoons confectioners’ sugar

For the icing 1 cup confectioners’ sugar purple food coloring FOR THE CANDIED VIOLETS: Wash the flowers and dry them gently. place the superfine sugar in a small dish. using a small paintbrush, paint some egg white onto each flower and then dip the flower into the superfine sugar. place on a wire cooling rack and leave overnight to harden. FOR THE CHOux pASTRy: Make the choux pastry éclairs using the method described on pages 80–83, piping a 5-inch line of the mixture for each éclair either in an éclair tin or on a greased baking tray (see figure 1).

1. PIPE 13 cm (5 in) lines of mixture for each éclair on either an éclair tin or a greased baking tray.

FOR THE pASTRy CREAM: To make the cream filling, whip the cream until it forms soft peaks. Add the lemon zest, juice and confectioners’ sugar and continue to whip until stiff peaks form. pipe the cream into the éclairs (see figure 2).

2. PIPE the pastry cream into the éclairs.

3. MIX the confectioners' sugar with water. Add a small amount of food color until you achieve the color you like.

4. SPREAD icing along the top of each éclair.

FOR THE ICING: To decorate the éclairs, mix the confectioners’ sugar with 3–4 teaspoons of water. Stir in some food coloring, adding a small amount at a time until you achieve a color you like (see ﬁgure 3). Spread icing along the top of each éclair (see ﬁgure 4) or dip them into the icing. place two candied violets onto the icing at one end of each éclair.

citystyleandliving.com | WINTER 2017/18 | 17

Nanaimo bars

| WINTER 2017/18 | citystyleandliving.com

Nanaimo bars

Step-By-Step Guide A Canadian invention, this tray-bake is great for holidays and get-togethers

Makes 16 bars prep time: base layer 10 minutes; middle and top layers 5 minutes each baking time: 10 minutes Assembly time: 10 minutes, plus 1 hour chilling For the base layer 3 tablespoons chopped walnuts 2 cups graham cracker or vanilla wafer cookie crumbs 3 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder ¼ cup superﬁne sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract ½ cup shredded coconut 6½ oz (13 tablespoons) butter

For the middle layer 9 oz (18 tablespoons) butter 2–3 teaspoons milk or cream 1½ tablespoons custard powder ½ teaspoon vanilla extract 2 cups confectioners’ sugar

For the top layer 3½ oz dark chocolate, chopped 1 tablespoon butter FOR THE bASE LAyER: preheat the oven to 350°F and line the baking tin with baking paper. Chop the walnuts and crush the biscuits in a food processor and pulse until you get a fine crumb mixture. Add the cocoa, sugar, vanilla extract and coconut (see figure 1) and pulse to combine. Melt the butter, add it to the dry ingredients and mix thoroughly. press the mixture into the baking tin (see figure 2) and bake for 10 minutes. The mixture will rise a little, so press it back down as soon as you remove the tray from the oven. Allow it to cool and form a solid base.

1. ADD cocoa powder, sugar, vanilla extract and coconut and pulse to combine.

2. PRESS the mixture into the baking tin.

3. SMOOTH the cream mixture over the base.

4. SMOOTH the chocolate layer over the cream.

FOR THE MIDDLE LAyER: Whisk the ingredients for the middle layer together until smooth, then spread over the cooled base layer (see ﬁgure 3). Refrigerate for 30 minutes before making the top layer. FOR THE TOp LAyER: Melt the chocolate and butter in a microwave or in a heatproof bowl over a pan of boiling water. pour the melted chocolate over the middle layer (see ﬁgure 4) and refrigerate for 30 minutes, then slice and enjoy.

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| WINTER 2017/18 | citystyleandliving.com

Cheesecake eggs and shortbread soldiers Makes 12 eggs and 12 soldiers prep time: shortbread 10 minutes; cheesecake 10 minutes baking time: 30 minutes Decorating time: 5 minutes For the eggshells 12 saved eggshells For the cheesecake 1 cup extra thick heavy cream 6 oz (¾ cup) cream cheese ¼ cup confectioners’ sugar Zest of ½ lemon 3 tablespoons lemon curd or marmalade For the shortbread 6 oz (1 cup) all-purpose flour ½ cup cornstarch cup superfine sugar ¼ teaspoon salt 4½ oz (9 tablespoons) butter FOR THE EGGSHELLS: Save your eggshells from any cakes or breakfasts you make. I pull out the filmy part inside and wash them in boiling water to kill any germs. Allow to air-dry. FOR THE CHEESECAKE: put the cream and cream cheese into the bowl of a stand mixer and fold in the confectioners’ sugar (I do this first or it will go everywhere when you turn on the mixer). Whip until thick and fluffy (1–2 minutes on a medium–high speed). Stir in the lemon zest. Spoon the mixture into a piping bag and pipe some into each eggshell. Add a teaspoonful of lemon curd or marmalade for the “egg yolk.” FOR THE SHORTbREAD: preheat the oven to 350°F and line the baking tin with baking paper. put the flour, cornstarch, sugar and salt into a food processor and whizz to combine. Mix in the butter until it just starts to come together. press the mixture into the baking tin. Slice into rectangles, prick each biscuit with a skewer and bake for 30 minutes. Remove from the oven, re-cut the rectangles and then allow to cool. Dip the shortbread soldiers in the eggs and enjoy.

MADE WITH LOVE photographs and text by Aimee Twigger from Made With Love. Reprinted by permission of Gibbs Smith.

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CITY STYLE AND LIVING

Fashion

It’s been the mot juste for years – high-low. Mixing casual streetwear (like this graphic tee) with high fashion staples and fabrics (like a luxe skirt) gets a 21st century makeover courtesy of Christian Siriano. 22

| WINTER 2017/18 | citystyleandliving.com

K&S MEDIA

MIX IT Up!

HELEN OF TROY

JIN SOON FOR PRABAL GURUNG

W H A T ’ S N E W I N T H E W O R L D O F S K I N , b E A u T y , M A K E u p A N D W E L L - b E I N G

THE EYES HAVE IT For a presence that will stand out from the crowd opt for eyeshadow in an unusual angular shape. Simply use masking tape to trace the outline you want to fill in with colour. Just make sure to keep the rest of the face bare and the nails short with just a swipe of a neutral tone.

Prabal Gurung

MAYBELLINE Color Sensational Vivid Matte Liquid Focus on red lips. Choose a creamy base that won’t dry out lips. For that extra dash of glam choose a high-shine lip colour that works for day and night.

Jason Wu

Achieving the glam look for the holidays is easy. We’ve got you covered with 3 products applied in 3 easy steps.

Holiday parties, New Year ’s Eve, Valentine’s Day – all these celebrations practically call for red lips. It won’t look retro or overdone if you follow a few tips. Keep the rest of the face bare (all you need is a swipe of mascara). Choose a shade that is flattering for your skin tone: warm undertones should choose red-blue shades, while coral-raspberry works on cool undertones.

| WINTER 2017/18 | citystyleandliving.com

It’s all about the brush. This one is hefty so you’ll be able to reach every lash with just a couple of strokes.

URBAN DECAY Naked Skin Weightless Ultra Definition Liquid Foundation Begin by prepping the face with a lightweight, creamy foundation. A matte finish will give you the coverage you need.

COURTESY MAYBELLINE; JAMES S. SINCLAIR (3)

FLAWLESS FACE

DIOR Diorshow Mascara

CRESCENT NAILS

THELADY ISA

If you like a French manicure, you’ll love these nails. The key is using colour strategically. Begin by applying a base coat to clean nails. Then apply a nude colour to each nail. Create a crescent shape for your French tip with the polish brush, starting along each side of the top of the nail and creating a “U” shape, using one of the three desired shades. Top off a top coat for a high gloss finish.

VAMP

MAKE UP FOR EVER Artist Shadow Eyeshadow in bronze khaki, Maybelline Color Sensational Loaded Bolds in Berry Bossy, Nails Inc Black Taxi. This look is all about embracing the dark side. For the face, apply a neutral concealer and cream based foundation. Then apply a dark red lip liner in the same shade as your lipstick. Use a lip brush to fill in colour. Apply a high shine lip gloss. For the eyes, begin by lining inner and outer rim with eyeliner. Thicken line for even more drama. Define the outer edge of the eye with a dark brown eyeshadow and apply a bronze colour across entire lid. On nails go dark and glossy.

Phillip Plein

Tanya Taylor

essie Go Overboard.

AlexanderWang

COURTESY MAYBELLINE, ESSIE, NARS (3); NYFW; CND FOR LIBERTINE

Brock

Libertine

Erdem

ARCHED BROWS

RIMMED

Creatures of the Wind

Want to shape the perfectly arched brow? Begin at the root and brush your brows upward. Mark the start of your brow with an eye pencil by aligning your brow with your inner tear duct. Remove strays that fall outside. The end point of your brow should line up directly with the outer edge of your eye. Mark it with an eye pencil and remove hairs outside this. The arch should fall above the outer rim of your iris on your brow bone. Mark this point with an eye pencil. Remove any strays below this. Taper the brow toward the outer edge.

EYES Nars Velvet Eyeliner, GuerlainThe Original Creamy Khôl Me Kajal Eyeliner, tarte Sex Kitten Eyeliner.

The newest way to create dark rimmed eyes? Use a range of different black eye pencils. Line the inside water line with one, the lower lash line with another. Try a third (kohl pencil) around the rim of the eyes. Then softly blend. For added pizzazz create a bold feline flick.

citystyleandliving.com | WINTER 2017/18 | 25

La Perla

Flaunt your face with creative accessories that run the gamut from modern and edgy to whimsical.

| WINTER 2017/18 | citystyleandliving.com

COURTESY MAYBELCOURTESY MAYBEL

Heads UP!

Jeremy Scott

Desigual

Marchesa

Marchesa MARCHESA AW17 HAIR BY MOROCCANOIL GLOBAL AMBASSADOR ANTONIO CORRAL CALERO PHOTOGRAPHY: JASON CARTER RINALDI FOR MOROCCANOIL

STyLE TIp

To r e a l l y l e t y o u r h a i r accessory shine choose a simple hair style. Straight hair pulled away from the face is best! Also make sure that your makeup is relatively neutral, avoid too many bright colours all at once.

YOUR LOOK There was one way to make a statement on the runway this season – a headpiece. Marchesa chose an elaborate, floral ode the sort of accessory that fairies might wear. La Perla created a seductive vision with a black birdcage veil studded with jewels covering the face. Jeremy Scott meanwhile transformed the kitschy neon boa into a fantastic hat that created a halo effect around the models’ faces. Edgy and urban, the peaked cap got a glam makeover with red feathers. It is the sort of accessory that mixes modern street wear with ancient tribal decorations. citystyleandliving.com | WINTER 2017/18 | 27

HELEN OF TROY 1. BY ANY OTHER NAME

So precious and pure is this essential oil that a tiny vial comes delicately packaged within a brown glass bottle (for mixing a few drops with carrier oil). It takes 81 kg (180 lbs or approximately 50 000 roses) of damask roses just to produce 30 ml (1 ounce) of essential oil, so it’s little wonder that this sweet smelling extraction is treasured and protected. It smells oh so sweet! Jurlique Rose Pure Essential Oil, $51.00 (USD); jurlique.com

2. CINCIN!

When skin looks and feels dull during winter, there’s nothing a little brightening won’t solve. This gentle formulation uses grape water, to slough off dead skin cells. Cheers to the many uses of grapes! Caudalie Vinoper fect Concentrated Brightening Essence, 150 ml, $50; ca.caudalie.com

3. BUCK UP

Shaped like a mountain peak with orange flecks of marigold decorating it, this vegan soap is made with natural ingredients. Moisturizing thanks to vitamin E, and soothing thanks to marigold, it is a Canadian-made find. The complete line of soaps includes original and unusual herbs, essential oils and botanical combinations. Buck Naked Soap Comp any Energizing Marigold Soap, $7.95; bucknakedsoapcompany.com

4. COCO-NUT

By now you know all about the benefits of cold-pressed coconut oil – it’s antibacterial, moisturizing and contains antioxidants. What you probably also know by now is that it can be a bother to scoop out of the jar or take with you on the road. Enter Conscious Coconut Organic Coconut Oil in an easy-squeeze tube perfect for slipping into your purse.$16.95; consciouscoconut.com

5. REMOVE THE MASK

Set a ritual by mixing a little of this bentonite clay mask with honey, water or yogurt and applying to your face. Leave it on for 15 minutes meanwhile light candles and draw a bath. Linger while you wash. With Canadian algae, and maple syrup and just a handful of natural ingredients, it will have you glowing! Province Apothecary Detoxifying + Clarifying Clay Mask, 120 ml, $58; provinceapothecary.com

6. POOL SPRAY

This cleanser and makeup remover ticks all the boxes: made in Toronto, it contains exclusively hydrating and restorative oils. Every one chosen has a purpose – lavender oil to heal, raspberry oil to rejuvenate, frankincense to tone. This award-winning spray sure cleans up! Province Apothecar y Moisturizing Cleanser + Make Up Remover, $20; provinceapothecary.com 28

| WINTER 2017/18 | citystyleandliving.com

This Season’s It PRODUCTS products CSL loves, and you should try too

by NATALIE FOx

PRET-A-PORTER! NEW LOOKS FOR yOuR WARDRObE

WINTER IS HERE Celebrate the season with winter white, sparkles, and more!

citystyleandliving.com | SUMMER 2017 | 29

WINTER STYLE GUIDE

From an unexpected twist on edgy dark glamour to romantic sheer dressing and (almost) head to toe white, you’re going to have a blast trying out these trends

TREND ALERT

BCBGMAXAZRIA Cold-Shoulder Sweater Dress; bcbg.com

WINTER (WHITE) IS COMING There is something fresh about this blizzard-inspired monochromatic look. use accessories for a pop of colour and add a touch of sparkle to pull everything together. CARLOLINA BUCCI Florentine 18karat rose gold earrings $1,180; carolinabucci.com

| WINTER 2017/18 | citystyleandliving.com

COURTESY MAYBEL

LANVIN Gold-tone, enamel and crystal cuff, $1050; lanvin.com

JENNy pACKHAM F/W 2018

SARTO BY FRANCO SARTO Palmer Mule, $109; francosarto.com

DOLCE & GABBANA Dolce Box leathertrimmed embellished velvet clutch, $3,060; dolcegabbana.com

STyLE TIp

Petite? Avoid overwhelming your small frame with an abundance of fabric by cinching your waist with a belt. PASCALE MONVOISIN Pierrot 9-karat rose gold, silver, bakelite and diamond ring $490; pascalemonvoisin.com

LORD & TAYLOR Cashmere beret, $59.99; thebay.com

GIAMBATTISTA VALLI Lace-trimmed floralprint silk-chiffon maxi dress, $3,720; giambattistavalli.com

TREND AL ERT

JIMMY CHOO Ricky 85 metallic leather-trimmed sequined stretch-knit sock boots, $900; jimmychoo.com

DARK ROMANCE

Florals are always a safe choice, but the rebel in you sometimes wants to mix things up. This season, designers have transformed this staple into a more mysterious, edgy staple in shades of charcoal and black.

citystyleandliving.com | WINTER 2017/18 | 31

JENNy pACKHAM F/W 2018

CHRISTIAN DIOR F/W 2018

TREND ALERT

SHEER BRILLIANCE Choose a high impact sheer number for party season.

PARKHURST Felted Wool Beret, $24.99; thebay.com

GANNI Harway printed cotton-jersey T-shirt $80; ganni.com

GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI Janice leathertrimmed stretchmesh ankle boots, $1315; giuseppezanotti.com

| WINTER 2017/18 | citystyleandliving.com

STyLE TIp

Ease into the trend by pairing a lingerie-inspired skirt with a casual tee.

TOBI Nina Lace Multi Bodycon Set $138; tobi.com

DIOR Mini lady dior bag beige smooth calfskin embroidered with a beaded heart.

STYLIST!

HOW TO STyLE yOuR FAVOuRITE OuTFITS AND ACCESSORIES

CHANEL F/W 2018

EDITORS PICKS

METALLIC NAILS

you Gotta Own It! 5

Must-have items for Winter 2017! Is there anything more evocative of the season than these twinkly gems ?

THE SILVER SHOE

ASTROLOGICAL PURSE

NIGHT SKY MAXI DRESS

1. Loub outin manicure care, $68; us.christianlouboutin.com 2 2. Saint Laurent New Wave 196 Loulou heart-shaped silver-tone sunglasses, $490; ysl.com 3 3. Kate Spade 4. RIxO London Margo embellished embroidered georgette midi dress, $470; rixo.co.uk 5 5. Attico Star bright light up constellation marci bag, $428; katespade.com 4 Monica mirrored-leather mules, $700; theattico.com

CS L GR EEN TIPS When doing laundry, adjust the water level to the size of the load. / Apply fresh aloe vera gel as a face mask. / Use plant-based nail polish remover. ›› 36

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COURTESY LOUBOUTIN; SAINT LAURENT; KATE SPADE; ATTICO; RIXO LONDON

FUTURISTIC SPECS

CITY STYLE AND LIVING

Travel

Purple Reign!

K&S MEDIA

The sun sets on the beach in Nuevo Vallarta as a surfer wades into the water. See more from Mexico on p40-41. citystyleandliving.com | WINTER 2017/18 | 37

PASSPORT!

WHERE TO GO, WHAT TO SEE AND WHAT TO DO AROuND THE WORLD

3 bEAuTIFuL INSTA-WORTHy SpOTS IN THE CANADIAN ROCKIES

On The Road Again Two sleek vehicles to drive on your next road trip or everyday through the city

FOR THE BUSINESS TYPE

FOR THE SPORTY-TECH TYPE

THE STATS

Sleek leather trim seats and heated front and rear seating are ideal for Canadian winter

SAFETY: Honda Lanewatch

blind spot display is especially handy for busy highways. COOL FEATURES: Get the most of nature, and let in the light with the one touch moonroof. honda.ca/civic_sedan/trims

THE DEETS

Apple CarPlay and Android Auto help you stay connected by integrating to your touchscreen d i s p l ay.

▲

THE DEETS

1 LAKE MINNEWANKA Take a cruise along this brilliantly blue glacier lake. A peaceful spot for a picnic, hike or snowshoeing. banﬀjaspercollection.com

2018 Acura TLX V6 SH-AWD

Honda Civic Sedan Touring trim

LOOK: 17 inch aluminium alloy wheels and chrome door handles create a sleek exterior with a sporty edge.

These awe inspiring locations are worth a visit to snap a pic

LOOK: Sexy, and sleek sculptural lines delivers a modern, sporty look. SAFETY: AcuraWatch provides security in detecting and notifying the driver of potential road hazards. COOL FEATURES: Wireless

charging pad, and heated steering. Chrome exhaust, diamond pentagon grille lend design edge. acura.ca/tlx

2 bANFF GONDOLA Get a 360 view of the mountain ranges, 2,281m above sea level. Explore the maze-like observation deck with incredible panoramas.

bEAuTy

DECLÈOR Anti-wrinkle Smooth Yourself Beautiful kit (Aromessence Mandarine Smoothing Oil Serum (5 ml), Aroma Lisse Energizing Smoothing Cream (50 ml), Aroma Lisse Dark Circle and Eye Wrinkle Eraser (15 ml)), $120; decleor.ca

ECCO Shape Tassel Ballerina, $190; ca.shop.ecco.com

3 VERMILION LAKES Located at the foot of Mount Norquay, with views of Mount Rundle, this mirror-like marvel oﬀers an easy hiking trail.

CSL GREE N TIPS Use your hotel’s shuttle service. / Edit the contents of your suitcase. / Stay on clearly marked trails. / Pack your own takeout containers and cutlery. ›› 38

| WINTER 2017/18 | citystyleandliving.com

COURTESY HONDA; ECCO; DELEOR;

It’s true, airline travel can be stressful. Here are two of CSL’s new faves that will make your next trip a breeze.

▲

IN FLIGHT ESSENTIALS

SHOES

GRAHAM PATRICK MARTIN PASSPORT

tour guide with

Currently starring in the highly-anticipated sixth season of the critically-acclaimed drama series Major Crimes as Rusty beck, the actor tells CSL about his travel faves, his charity work and why he loves New Orleans.

HEADSHOT: PHOTOGRAPHER: DYLAN LUJANO @DYLANLUJANO, GROOMER: MATILDE CAMPOS @TILDEBYMATILDE, STYLIST: DAVID NINO @DAVIDMNINO. COURTESY GRAHAM PATRICK MARTIN; JOAN MARCUS

Q A

Tell us a little about your career path.

I started doing toy commercials as a kid. Got my first steady gig when I was 15 years old. It was a little multi camera sitcom on TBS called The Bill Engvall Show. When that ended I joined Two and a Half Men for a few seasons (on both Sheen and Kutcher administrations) and after that I received a part on Major Crimes; which has been my home for the last 6 years.

MOST MEMORAbLE TRAVEL MOMENT. Having box seats to see Hamilton on broadway; only to ﬁnd out that I was randomly upgraded to 5th row center orchestra; only to ﬁnd out the reason I was upgraded was because prince wanted to sit in the box I had reserved. It was surreal.

What are some of your favourite projects that you have worked on? Why?

It’s hard to pick one. I did an indie that I was incredibly passionate about called Somewhere Slow. I worked alongside an incredible actress named Jessalyn Gilsig. The movie takes place in this little cottage in Rhode Island. The cast and some crew stayed in the house that we were shooting in for the month-long production. It was magic.

Tell us about your charitable endeavours and why it is important to give back.

I have two favorites; one being The Sunshine Kids Organization. They provide fun life experiences for kids who are undergoing cancer treatments. I often join the kids as a volunteer on their trips to New Orleans, LA, NY etc. Covenant House California is an organization that I recently got involved with. I help with a writing workshop at the covenant house. Seeing these homeless youths express themselves through writing is so special.

FAVOuRITE CITy TO TRAVEL TO AND WHy? New Orleans. It’s my home. Also, the food is unreal.

GRAHAM’S LIST

1. When I am not working I am... Still working.

2. Best advice (business or otherwise) that you have received Just be honest. Mostly with yourself.

FAVORITE HOTEL IN THE WORLD, WHy? Oil Nut bay in the british Virgin Islands. Look it up and you will understand.

3. I can't live without... Headphones.

4. Three of the most played songs on my iPod are... “River” by Leon bridges “Ah-La song” by Joe purdy “bette Davis Eyes” by Kim Carnes

5. What three items are always in your luggage and what brand of luggage do you always travel with? Samsonite. I always bring an extra phone charger, charcoal pills, and my own shampoo. Can’t trust hotel shampoo.

WHAT IS yOuR FAVOuRITE DISH AND AT WHICH RESTAuRANT ( WORLDWIDE)? Drago’s char broiled oysters in New Orleans. citystyleandliving.com | WINTER 2017/18 | 39

T-T-TEQUILA!

As one of the four designated tequila regions of the country, Jalisco produces more than 80% of the blue agave required for the spirit. Take a tour at a tequila distillery and learn about the process before sampling a selection ranging from almond flavoured tequila to aged (anejo).

DOWNTOWN

Downtown Puerto Vallarta is always bustling with activity. A visit here is not complete without selfies at the seahorse statue and dolphin fountain, a walk along the Malecón (boardwalk) that looks on to the Pacific Ocean, and a pit stop at the market to stock up on souvenirs, local crafts and clothing.

AT SUNSET

With dozens of beaches stretching along the coast, we particularly loved Conchas Chinas and Mismaloya for their secluded crystal clear, turquoise waters. During the evening, don’t miss the unbelievable sunset from Banderas Bay.

ROAD TRIP

Just outside downtown Puerto Vallarta lies the town of El Pitillal. Here you’ll find a more traditional pace of life, where the intoxicating scent of street food vendors will guide you to authentic culinary gems like chicharrónes, elote, gorditas, and tamales. Nothing could be better than strolling the streets, munching on warm churros dusted with cinnamon and sugar straight from the fryer!

AN ICON

An iconic emblem of the city, Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe church, sits high above the downtown skyline. Outside, a buzz of vendors sell traditional crafts and trinkets, while the resounding sound of the bells can be heard throughout the day. Witness a frenzy of dancing, singing, colourful floats and traditional Aztec motifs around the church, during the feast of Guadalupe celebrations from December 1 to 12. 1. Blue agave at the tequila distillery. 2.A local vendor stirs a pot of chicharrónes. 3. The seahorse monument is a great spot to take a picture. 4. The landmark church of Puerto Vallarta. 5. Selling shrimp on a stick on the beach. 6. Los Arcos. 7. Sunset on Banderas Bay.

ULTIMATE WINTER

ESCAPE puerto Vallarta-Riviera Nayarit, Mexico

Once a mining town, and just a four to five hour flight from most Canadian cities, puerto Vallarta―Riviera Nayarit is located in Mexico’s state of Jalisco and boasts immaculate white sand beaches, a plethora of water activities, and Huichol culture. Oh and did we mention it is home to one of the area’s most precious resources― tequila? Get ready as CSL and Sunwing whisk you away to this pacific getaway. by SHIVANA MAHARAJ pHOTOGRApHy K&S MEDIA 40

| WINTER 2017/18 | citystyleandliving.com

THE SUITE LIFE

STAY

Inside my wellness suite, I find a Lifecycle recumbent bicycle and exercise kit while in my minibar there is a complimentary selection of dried fruit, nuts and seeds, cereal bars and wellness drinks (flavoured water, coconut water and energy drinks). Though these help to balance out my indulgent side, I quickly learn that a selection of dessert for lunch at Azul and each night is obligatory (paris brest, clafoutis and chocolate mousse, anyone?). I blame the pastry chefs. On most evenings, I climb onto my second floor private terrace and step into the jacuzzi to enjoy the view of the cerulean sea framing the Sierra Madre mountains in the distance.

GRAND VELAS RIVIERA NAYARIT Recharge at this all-suite, all inclusive resort that takes luxury to the next level. With a friendly staﬀ, on-site activities, phenomenal cuisine and award-winning spa, this beachfront Leading Hotel of the World property is truly a piece of serenity.

Cl ockwis e f rom top Lef t: Relaxing on the rooftop patio in the Wellness Suite; A donkey eye promises good luck at the spa; Inside the award winning spa; Sommelier Kritzia inside Koi Bar; Meticulous presentation at Lucca is met with incredible technique and exceptional flavours; Chef Rául Hernàndez (Piaf) at a cooking lesson; The infinity pool is a great choice for sunset cocktails; Grand Velas’ own tequila is offered in-suite.

SENSE(ATIONAL)

From the minute I step onto the grounds I realize that I’ve not only arrived at a hotel but I’m also in for an experience. Check-in revolves around a cold glass of hibiscus tea, fennel infused hand towel and welcome massage and I am soon introduced to my personal concierge Luis who routinely checks in throughout my stay to schedule dinner reservations and activities at the resort and to ensure that I am well attended to each day. At the spa, each treatment begins with a hydrotherapy water ceremony that includes diﬀering water features and temperatures that begins the relaxation process. My serenity full body massage leaves me both invigorated and relaxed.

GETTING TO PUERTO VALLARTA

CULINARY JOURNEY

Each of the three gourmet restaurants are a culinary journey. Inspired by the Mexican artist, Frida Kahlo, the menu at Frida features a range of vibrant cuisine from around the country with a modern twist (think creamy avocado azcamolli, huitlacoche and shrimp tamal, and Mezcal infused watermelon salad) while classic French techniques are flawlessly executed in rich dishes like lobster bisque, foie gras and scottish salmon served with a creamy Dijon mustard sauce at piaf. At newly renovated Lucca, Italian cuisine reigns with a range of exceptional pizza, and Mediterranean classics like melanzana alla Toscana. Don't leave without ordering the house made pasta- the chitarra duck papardelle and ricotta filled tortellini both of which are divine creations. pairings by sommelier Kritzia barrientos Eggers are flawless including introductions to some standout wine from Mexico's baja peninsula. vallarta.grandvelas.com

Looking for a one stop shop for your winter vacay? Award winning Sunwing is more than just an airline, with all inclusive hotel and flight packages available for travellers that makes jetting off a cinch (plus we love an airline that offers a glass of bubbly to celebrate take-off!) We also loved the personalized and attentive service like ground transportation to and from the hotel as well as the on-property Sunwing representatives at the hotel. If you are prone to cabin fever, a range of off-site Sunwing Experiences excursions, like the Amazing Vallarta tour (see previous page), give a nice overview of the city and surrounding area and can be easily booked on air or at the hotel. TIP: It’s worth the splurge for the Elite Plus upgrade, providing travelers with: priority check-in, boarding and baggage handling (your bag will be among the first to be available for pick up), free checked bag (23 kg), and advanced seat selection. sunwing.ca citystyleandliving.com | WINTER 2017/18 | 41

SHANGRI-LA TORONTO

Asian touches, exceptional cuisine and spectacular service are touchstones of this 202-room hotel by SHIVANA MAHARAJ

Top right: A selection of eye catching treats at high tea; Lobby Lounge is a cozy and inviting gathering space.

DINING "Bosk will be the highlight of your stay here, I go there every year for my birthday," a guest whispers to me in the elevator and I soon discover why. Chef de cuisine Richard Singh, who has had stints at The Fat Duck and Per Se knows his flavours― at dinner, the lobster bisque is concentrated with a punchy hit of brandy and topped with a delicate pâte feuilletée, the tiny handmade Yukon gold agnolotti with chestnut and black truffle are dreamy, while the Fisherfolk Atlantic halibut with creamy pommes puree, artichoke and grapes is understated and elegant. The following day, still

enthusiastically raving about dinner the previous evening, I book high tea expecting a formulaic offering of cucumber sandwiches and strawberries and cream. Servers wearing Asian style blue willow patterned dresses, hold tiered trays of goodies tailored to guests dietary restrictions. Each bite-sized treat is formed with the utmost perfection, and created with sophistication and a level of thought that makes the experience utterly sublime (think delicate minilobster rolls, a luxurious take on black forest and a grapefruit infused genoise and earl grey angel cake). shangri-la.com/toronto

DESIGN Pulling up to the modern glass edifice, large sparkling chandeliers with tall orchids can be seen from street view. Inside, natural light fills the lobby where the sexy Italian handcrafted Fazioli piano is proudly anchored by couture dresses curated by collector William Vintage. A sleek elongated fireplace and smart paintings are cohesively displayed in a chic neutral palette of gold, grey, cream and black. Meanwhile, the premier room offers 560 square feet of space with views of Toronto’s downtown through the ceiling to floor windows, (especially lavish from the soaker tub in the marble laden bathroom). WHy I’D COME bACK Service is unmistakably attentive and one of the best hotel experiences in Toronto. Servers who remember your face from breakfast wave hello during afternoon tea, attendants at valet are swift and helpful. Overall, hotel staff is genuinely eager to assist guests. This is luxury defined. 42

| WINTER 2017/18 | citystyleandliving.com

The marble bathroom inside a premier room; the unctuous lobster bisque at Bosk restaurant.

FOuR SEASONS TORONTO A mix of residences and hotel, this towering skyscraper in Yorkville makes a stylish statement at the brand's ﬂagship property by SHIVANA MAHARAJ

DINING Café Boulud with its orange and teal colour scheme and 1920s influenced decor recalls classic French bistros with a 21st century twist. Banquette seating, a wraparound bar, and globe lights put the spotlight on intimate dining. The menu is heavily influenced by the Mediterranean with global touches. Our seared octo-

pus with romesco sauce has punchy, bright flavour, while the poulet à la broche takes advantage of the restaurant’s unique rotisserie. For breakfast, in-room dining does not disappoint: delicious strawberry Danish, eggs Benedict with an unexpected Granny Smith apple salad topping, light lemon ricotta pancakes. fourseasons.com/toronto

Top left: The dining room at Café Boulud; inside a guestroom.

DESIGN Rising 30 storeys with a glass facade, the hotel tower mirrors its residential twin. Subdued tones of taupe and yellow in guestrooms induce a sense of calm. A simple design scheme allows the panoramic city views to take centre stage and let natural light flood guestrooms. Wood panelling in common spaces warms up the design. The hotel also boasts a spa, full service fitness centre, indoor lap pool and hot tub. WHy I’D COME bACK The 259 guestroom and suite hotel looks onto the bustling city and many of Toronto’s landmarks, restaurants and bars are within walking distance. As the hotel has several unique services, expect to encounter a wide range of guests. A dessert of pavlova, the hotel’s calming décor. citystyleandliving.com | WINTER 2017/18 | 43

Insider’s

AZORES in

Days

FOLLOW OuR pATH TO FOuR OF THE NINE ISLANDS THAT TERMAKE up THE AZORES (T CEIRA, FAIAL, pICO AND SAO MIGuEL). ALONG WINDING ROADS LINED WITH HyDRANGEA buSHES, RuGGED COASTLINES WITH uNFORGETTAbLE VIEWS OF THE ATLANTIC, LAKE-FILLED CALDERAS AND MAJESTIC MOuNTAINS, WHERE EVERy MEAL IS A CELEbRATION, yOu’LL DISCOVER THE bEST THESE STuNNING ISLANDS HAVE TO OFFER by DR. ROOKMIN MAHARAJ pHOTOGRApHy by K&S MEDIA

This Page: The patchwork-like terrain of Terceira, from the Serra do Cume lookout. Top Row: The striking Senhor Santo Cristo church in Praia da Vitória; limpets are a local delicacy; Futurismo guide, Rui ready for an ocean tour in Pico. Centre Row: Lush tea leaves at Chá Gorreana in São Miguel; Black bulls are a common sight on Terceira; São Miguel pineapples. Bottom Row:; Family owned Queijo Vaquinha makes delicious cheese on Terceira; Large taro leaves on Faial; A cityscape on Faial.

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hen settlers first came to the volcanic archipelago of nine islands isolated in the Atlantic Ocean, (4,121 km from New York and 1,525 km from mainland Portugal), they coined them Açores for the birds they thought they saw encircling the sky. Though the species of bird was in fact incorrect, the name Azores nevertheless stayed. These soaring islands are a place where residents still greet you with a warm smile as if you are family, where donkeys pull wooden carts filled with produce to sell at the local market and everywhere there is a piece of untouched, awe-inspiring nature. The Azores geographic isolation has allowed each Azorean isle to preserve their unique characteristics and customs, though deeply embossed with the leitmotif of maritime culture.

DAY 1

7.20 A.M. HERE TO STAY A short ﬁve and a half hour ﬂight from Toronto, you land in the early morning hours on São Miguel. A quick connection means that you'll soon be on the island of Terceira, another 40 minutes by air.

8.30 A .M. FIRST IMPRESSIONS Immediately you are greeted with surprise at the abundance of floral life: palm trees, long hedges of blue, pink, and purple hydrangeas, ferns and cheery amaryllis belladonna. There are immaculately and meticulously cared for houses painted in coral, yellow, and blue as if to echo the colours of nature and bordered by fences made from stacked black volcanic stones, some painted in white for contrast. below your feet, neat cobblestone streets are ever present, and each street seems to have a unique pattern of white limestone against grey-black basalt forming patterns of sea creatures, flowers, coats of arms, and ships. As you drive through small parishes it's like stepping back in time. The landscape is lined with cows grazing in fields undisturbed; taro groves their gigantic leaves glowing in the sunshine; farmland sloping toward the sea. A Miradouro Serra do Cume (a lookout point) affords a unique view of stop at M Serra da Ribeirinha and though somewhat obscured by the island and of S clouds, there is a vast expanse of emerald green land, like a stained glass mas46

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terpiece, each pane separated by a perimeter of black volcanic rock. To complete this artistry, the backdrop is framed Cinco picos caldera which forms several and etched by the C pico da Matinha, p pico de Rachado, p pico de Vime, p pico cones, p do António Homem, p pico do Areciro, and p pico do Malhão.

11.30 A.M. PRAIA DA VITÓRIA praia da Merely ﬁfteen minutes away sits the municipality of p Vitória, centered around the town square LLargo Francisco paços do ConOrnelas da Câmara and the nearby town hall, p celho. Founded in 1591, it takes inspiration from the manor houses of the time with its whitewashed façade, doublestaircase and bell-tower. The streets are narrow and run parallel to each other, lined with old houses featuring the characteristic sash windows with colourful shutters. you will Holy-Ghost undoubtedly be drawn to the beautifully ornate H Império next to every church. These unique, charming miniature structures, many stemming from the 19th century, were used to store reliquaries, pennants, and other religious symbols. IIgreja Matriz de Santa Cruz with its yellow curved trim and symmetrical architecture is especially impressive with decorated scrolls above the windows in typically Azorean portuguese style.

12 P.M. LUNCH IN ANGRA DO HEROÍSMO Twenty-minutes south takes you to the city of Angra d o Heroísmo. At V Verde Maçã restaurant enjoy a fillet of perfectly breaded crisp and golden hake served with potatoes and vegetables and finish with a traditional slice of sweet queijada Dona Amélia, dusted with powdered sugar. Continue exploring local specialties by visiting the island's oldest queijaria Vaquinha where you can sample cheese factory, q their delicious range. 3 P.M. CENTRAL Algar do Carvão, an The centre of Terceira is dominated by A ancient lava tube. Climb into the 3 000 year old volcano filled with a tapestry of plant life, and miniature silica stalagmites that take much longer to grow than their limestone cousins. boca The monument with its cool, damp atmosphere and b do Algar, a vertical passage that feeds the area with a stream of sunlight, feels like a natural cavernous cathedral.

8 P.M. FISH Tasca das Tias in Angra, order the fresh grilled For dinner at T cherne (grouper) on a slice of bread. The convivial tavernlike atmosphere includes modern industrial furniture and is adorned with huge photographs of historical ﬁgures of the city.

DAY 2

9 A.M. HERE TO STAY pous ada Do Heroismo the 28-room, 1 suite cliﬀ-top hotel merges history with modernIn Angra, p day. built within a fortress, dating to 1555 it is a playful maze of sentry posts, a turret, manicured lawns and cobblestone pathways. The old stone walls are the backdrop to the pentagonal pool, while many of the new rooms face the sea. At breakfast the hot and cold buﬀet breakfast spread can only be explained as made with love. An eye popping array of choices are neatly laid out including a variety of cakes, cheeses, baked beans and freshly squeezed orange juice with one of the most creamy, delicious vegetable quiche you'll ever taste.

10 A.M. TOURING ANGRA DO HEROÍSMO Angra do Heroísmo is the only city in the archipelago designated a uNESCO World Heritage Site. During the age of discovery, and like much of the Azores, seafaring vessels made this their first stop before continuing on to the mainland. The port boasts extensive military fortifications while the small, ancient centre is a beautiful conglomeration of painted houses, curlicue churches, sprawling gardens, and monuments. Although its past is celebrated, Angra is also of modern significance as one of three regional capitals and the seat of the Azorean Supreme Court. Miradouro da Memória which provides a panoramic At an altitude of 87 metres, your next stop is M Monte bras il. Rolling hills give way to seaside settlements in all their view of the town including M Alto da Memória monument is a whitewashed glory, and tiny islands float in the Atlantic. Nearby, A stand out. The canary-coloured obelisk was erected on the site of the first fortress of the archipelago, Castelo de São Luís. Its multi-sided decorations have an anthropomorphic character, like eyes the C staring forward. Throughout the town there are various examples of typical Azorean architecture, Sé Catedral, and IIgreja da Misericórdia, two of the most dramatic are the towering main cathedral, S the location of the first hospital in the Azores. 12 P.M. SECRET GARDEN The meandering JJardim Duque da Terceira fuses history with floral beauty. Roses, mirror-like fountains, fruit trees, and palms recall the days when the garden was divided into parcels each dedicated to its own branch of horticulture. The grounds are also home to the Jesuit College (the Ja rd im de baixo) and the Convent of São F rancisco (the Casa do bosques and Jardim de Cima) providing a shady place of relaxation. C Jardim restaurant set amidst the gardens is a nice location for a vegetarian lunch like quiche and mixed salad. 4 P.M. FAIAL MARINA Another short flight headed west, takes you to Faial. A short drive to the Marina Da Horta, where south east of the island takes you to the noteworthy M the entirety of the pavement is covered in paintings from around the world. To memorialize their visit to the island, sailing crews have transformed the space into a living postcard. Some paintings feature flags or symbols, while others feature animals or people. Each is a capsule of a single voyage and the sights, sounds and discoveries made. Walk along until dinner to discover each distinct journey.

OppositePage: An aerial view of Terceira island; Bright yellow Igreja do Colégio on Terceira; Fresh mandarins at the market in Terceira; A man collects limpets from the volcanic rocks; Risso’s dolphins playfully splash in the water on Pico. This Page: A closer look at Cabeço Gordo; The Lighthouse of Ponta dos Capelinhos on Faial; Owner of Verde Maçã outside of the restaurant.

7 P.M. DINNER Genuino Res taurant is an authentic celebration of seafaring not only in terms of food but also décor. A map outside of the restaurant shows the escapades of owner Genuino Madruga, who has twice circumnavigated the globe by boat. Inside, the restaurant is adorned with memorabilia he has collected over the years. your shadow box table displays postcards from bora bora and a t-shirt from a restaurant in Canada. you can't go wrong with a warm bowl of ﬁsh soup, bream ﬁsh, grilled octopus in olive oil, and unforgettable fresh ricotta cheese served with pimenta moida, a local red pepper condiment.

COLOUR MY WORLD

Each island in the Azores is associated with a colour. Santa Maria, yellow; São Jorge, brown; Flores, pink; Corvo, black and Graciosa, white. CSL break down even more stats on the 4 islands we visited.

Terceira

Population: 56,437 Size: 401.9 sq. km Highest Point: Serra de Santa Bárbara Colour: Purple

Pico

Population: 14,806 Size: 447 sq. km Highest Point: Mount Pico Colour: Grey

Faial

Population: 14,994 Size: 173.1 sq. km Highest Point: Cabeço Gordo Colour: Blue

São Miguel

Population: 137,830 Size: 744.6 sq. km Highest Point: Pico da Vara Colour: Green

Opposite Page, top row: Paintings at the Horta marina in Faial depict journeys from around the globe; Brother and sister owners of one of Terceira's oldest shops and currency exchange; A beautiful tide mill in Pico. Centre Row: Paulo Machado of Azores Wine company stands in front of the tasting room; The colourful Imperio da Caridade in Praia da Vitoria, Terceira; Hydrangea flowers abound throughout the Azorean islands. Bottom Row: A quiet street in Angra do Heroísmo, Terceira; A hiking trail at Caldeira do Cabeço Gordo on Faial; A grilled octopus dish for lunch at Casa Ancora on Pico.

DAY 3

9 A.M. HERE TO STAY Azoris Faial Garden Hotel, with imStay overnight at the recently renovated A Café Sport. pressive views of the marina and steps away from the famous C Wake up early to enjoy a buffet breakfast while watching the sun rise over the ocean. 10 A.M. HIKE AND VOLCANO Rocha da Fajã is a hiking trail that begins at praia do Norte village in the northwest of Faial and winds its way past taro and corn fields where women tend to the crops in rubber boots with tools in hand. Cliffside views are enhanced by Cyprus trees that grow beside volcanic structures. be sure to rest alongside Nossa Senhora da Rocha (Our Lady of the Rock), an old fountain marked by portuguese tile. Stop near Rua do Cemitério and walk down to Fajã playground and p praia do Norte, a black sand beach, where you the F watch as surfers wait to catch the perfect wave. Capelinhos Volcano, which, between SeptemA mere 15 minutes away is C ber 1957 and October 1958, erupted, spewing ash, destroying homes and leading to the evacuation of thousands. Eventually enlarging the island with its lava flow, the once buried lighthouse now stands proudly in the newly created landscape of grey, barren land. Climb the 144 steps for a spectacular 360 degree view. Steps away, explore the futuristic volcanology centre that explains the geological phenomenon that precipitated the latest eruption.

12 P.M. ENJOY THE VIEW Cabeço Gordo (portuguese for "fat mountain"), the highest Drive up to C point on the island and a stratovolcano. Or, for the more adventurous, take the three-hour hike around its perimeter for a view of this spectacular caldera resembling a verdant amphitheatre with its sloping perimeter and wide basin. Nearby, a small red gravel pathway leads to a chapel with tidy wooden signs pointing the way to Sydney, Lisbon and London. For a view that captures the imagination turn toward neighbouring islands, seemingly snow-capped. blink though and the 'snow' is actually a cloud, swept away by the latest wind gust. As you look down, the volcanic heritage of this island becomes all too apparent – at the shoreline the familiar outline of volcanic cones, long since covered in green, cradles towns.

naise; creamy, glorious caramel parfait topped with crunchy almonds and drizzled with chocolate.

3:00 P.M. SWEET RIDE Take the short 30 minute ferry ride from Horta, Faial’s main town to Madalena in the island of pico. 3:30 P.M. HERE TO STAY Check-in to Aldeia da Fon te located adjacent to the roaring Atlantic Ocean. The stone cottages are spread out amongst plentiful gardens featuring local flora. At sunrise, walk along the rocky sea trail to view flocks of birds flitting to and fro against an impossible sorbet sky. 4:30 P.M. AN EASY DRIVE It's easy to become mesmerized driving alongside the Criação Velha Vineyards, located on pico’s western coast. With their unusual formation, the wineries of pico bear little resemblance to traditional sloped vineyards seen in the most other locations around the globe. Little wonder, the area uNESCO World Heritage site for the unusual linear has been designated a u rows of volcanic walls that run parallel to the shoreline. Hidden in between, green grape leaves protrude against the rust coloured soil. For centuries locals have used this method of stacking the plentiful volcanic stone to protect the vines from wind and sea water, and to keep the grapes at a consistent temperature. upon closer inspection, you can even see the relheiras, tracks left by the wheels of ox-carts that carry the grapes. 5:00 P.M. TAKE A SIP Azores Wine Company in the parish of your next stop is the unassuming A São Mateus. Inside the small tasting room, partner paulo Machado takes you through a flight of four wines. Sip wine made from the native grape varietal Arinto dos Açores lending a crisp freshness with delicate citrus which Machado refers to as a “kiss of the ocean,” with its mild salty whisper on the palate. It pairs perfectly with the tuna pâté served at the table. As the brilliant strawberry sky lights up the vineyards, you make your way back to the hotel for a local plate of calamari with olive oil, lemon and potatoes.

2:30 P.M LATE LUNCH Snack-bar Aldina is a home-style treat: ﬁsh salad studLunch at family-run S ded with chunks of rock ﬁsh, potatoes and vegetables mixed with mayon-

THE SWEET LIFE

Three local delicacies that you can’t miss along the way

Queijadas de Vila Franca do Campo (São Miguel)

Small cakes filled with eggs, sugar, butter and milk reminiscent of a frangipane tart.

Queijadas Dona Amélia (Terceira)

Filled with ground island corn flour, cinnamon, molasses, and raisins these dark, chewy cakes are named after the last Portuguese Queen.

Queijadas da Graciosa (Graciosa)

Star shaped flaky pastry filled with condensed milk, egg yolks and cinnamon.

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DAY 4

8:00 A.M. ADVENTURE CALLS Drive to the quay in LLajes do pico on the southern part of the island. up until the latter part of the 20th century, whaling was a major industry in the Azores. Now the area has morphed into a mecca for nature enthusiasts primarily through whale and dolphin watching. In fact, the Azores have been listed as one of the few places in the world where you can observe one third of whale and dolphin species throughout the year. Futurismo's fourteen-seat zodiac, expect to get a personalized, up Aboard F close with nature perspective of pico's sealife. Guide Rui, a marine biologist, ebulliently educates guests on the differences between each of the cetacean species. Mere minutes into the journey, as the craft eagerly propels across the cool water, pods of friendly Risso's dolphins playfully perform acrobatics Mount pico lending an elegant backas if on cue with the cloud skirt around M drop. Next, the meeker spotted and striped dolphins come into view. After several excited calls on the call radio from the whale spotter, you are finally rewarded with a pair of grey sperm whales wading in the deep blue ocean. 1:30 P.M. LUNCH BREAK Casa Ancora in S São All of that adventure has built up an appetite. Lunch at C Roque, is easily one of the best restaurants in the Azores, with exceptional service to match the sleek modern design. No detail has been overlooked, even the ceramic tableware represents the three prominent elements on the island (fire, water and earth). Indeed the restaurant's philosophy of 'local ingredients with a new vision' shines effortlessly. begin with the shareable Azorean stone crab pâté with avocado, a combination of sweet, briny lumps of claw meat with the creaminess of avocado, followed by the tender grilled octopus served with smooth mashed sweet potato and bright tomato salsa. For dessert, the flawless dark chocolate tart encases silky ganache in rich buttery pastry. 3:30 P.M. LAID BACK LAJIDO Santa Luzia, marked by the black seaside church Drive through the parish of S surrounded by jade samphire poking through volcanic stones. In sleepy LLajido, the striking characteristic houses resemble Holstein cows with their black and white facades, topped off with signature bright green or red shutters. 7:00 P.M. OFF WE GO AGAIN The After a short 50 minute flight, arrive on São Miguel island. Check into T Azor Hotel.

TERCEIRA

WALK THIS WAY

Decorative cobblestone is an emblem throughout the islands. 50

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FAIAL

Opposite Page: A misty day on São Miguel; A goat herder with his flock on Terceira; Ubiquitous pink Dona Amelia flowers. This Page: A traditional dish of octopus in olive oil at Genuino restaurant; Whale watching is a popular activity on Pico; Brothers Victor and Paulo Mendonça Costa of Caldeiras & Vulcões. Lagoa Do Fogo on a misty day.

pICO

SAO MIGuEL

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Terra Nostra Garden on Sao Miguel; The renowned Horta Marina; A worker plants flowers near the Miradouro do Facho, Terceira; Nearly every town has fresh fish available at the market; The view of the marina in Praia da Vitoria, Terceira.

DAY 5

8:30 A.M. NATURE CALLS Drive to the centre of the island and view the crater lake, LLagoa do Fogo. A foggy morning reveals small glimpses of São Miguel’s highest lake, plentiful with wildflowers. Make a short detour to the Northern coast at Miradouro da Santa Iria where the gentle mist in the air, the white horses feasting on lush grass, and dramatic emergent coastline creates an idyllic setting that could easily be mistaken for an impressionist painting. 9:30 A.M. GET YOUR VITAMIN INTAKE Caldeira Velha with its enormous ferns reminisJust ten minutes away, C cent of the Jurassic era, feels like a secret garden. The protected area, São Miguel Natural park and part classified as a Natural Monument of the S Azores uNESCO Global Geopark is comprised of two natural minof the A eral-rich pools. Step into the first sapphire coloured water for a soak amidst a waterfall before entering the second warmer pool (at 38 C). 11:00 A.M. TEA TIME plan tação Chá Gorreana, the undulating terAs you make your way to p raced tea fields mimic those of Asia. It may seem out of place, but this is Europe's oldest (five generations) and only tea plantation. Inside the production facility, the perfume of fermented and dried black, green and oolong leaves wafts in the air. With some of the equipment dating to the late 19th century, guests are privy to the manufacturing process. Today, most of the labour is still done by hand, charmingly evidenced by the small gaggle of Azorean ladies happily filling packets of tea at the end of the tour. 12:30 P.M. A TRADITIONAL MEAL The odour of sulphuric gas builds as you make your way to the entrance Furnas lake. Spot geysers and fumaroles scattered through the volof F canic complex with billowing hot steam rising from the earth. Thermal energy is used globally for cooking and the Azorean take on this tradiCozido das Furnas. A large stock pot filled with tional method is called C potatoes, meat or fish, and vegetables is lowered into a small pit in the 52

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earth where it will remain for several hours as the contents cook with the Restauunderground heat before being retrieved and then served. At R rante bar Caldeiras e Vulcões enjoy cozido for lunch. The tender meat and vegetables have a mild smokiness and delicate flavour. brothers and co-owners Victor and paulo Mendonça Costa learned from their grandfather how to make this typical dish of São Miguel. 3:00 P.M. WALK IN NATURE After your hearty meal, walk amongst the adjacent 31 acre, two hundred Terra Nostra botanical park, with thousands of plants, ferns, trees year-old T and flowers from around the world. The focal point is the iron rich swimming pool, where guests bask in the warm water. 9:30 A.M. MEET THE TWINS Drive to one of the seven natural wonders of portugal, LLagoa de Sete Cidades located at the base of an ancient stratovolcano. Comprised of two ecologically different lakes linked by a narrow strait, the lagoons shimmer in the early sunlight peeking through the clouds. 12:00 P.M. A FINAL BOW With the final few hours of your journey coming to a close, there is no better way to say adieu to the Azores than to be immersed in nature. Natural Monument pico Walk along the craggy volcanic mounds at the N das Camarinhas, located on the western tip of the island. At p ponta da Ferraria, the dramatic turquoise sea crashes against black stone, and though the cool wind that carries ocean spray to your face beckons you to bathe in the protected pools, the damp weather dictates otherwise. Termas da Ferraria followed by Instead, soak inside the healing waters at T a delicious traditional feast that includes a starter of the ubiquitous limpets in a garlic olive oil sauce, and fresh sword fish with sesame seeds and vegetables. End with a mouth-watering tea-infused custard flan. A parting kiss from the ocean seems the perfect way to say goodbye to these magical islands.

FURNAS LAKE VILLAS

The villas are surrounded by beautiful gardens. The highest point of the property provides awesome views of Furnas lake and the natural flora. Owners Manuel and Helen Gago da Camara. An outdoor pool at the hotel. Breakfast is served in the common room. Gathering honey from the onsite beehives.

SAO MIGUEL

Nature has a way of prevailing, especially in the Azores. After the dairy farm they had planned ran into stumbling blocks, Helena and Manuel Gago da Camara embraced the floral and faunal wonders of their 103 hectare (255 acre) property in Sao Miguel transforming it into an eco-retreat. The result is a series of modern showpiece villas surrounded by heather-covered slopes that play peek-a-boo with Furnas Lake. LOCATION It may not appear so on a map, but Furnas really is the centre of São Miguel island. From here, most destinations, including the capital of ponta Delgada, are only forty minutes away. Furnas Lake Villas occupies a unique spot – site of the last volcanic eruption in 1630. Although the land has been in Manuel Gago da Camara’s family for hundreds of years, in the last three generations, fate has stepped in, continually returning the property to native scrub and bush. by the 1990s the government had put a stop to farming near the lake ending Gago da Camara’s dream of reviving his great-grandfather’s dairy. “before [we built the hotel] it was a place to come on the weekends and holidays but now it is home. It was always a dream to live here year round,” says Helena Gago da Camara.

DESIGN The entranceway curves past a grove of Japanese cedar, the same locally sourced material used by architect Fernando Monteiro to create the 10 villas. Modelled after local cafuas (corn granaries), raised above the ground, the clean, angular lines of the cladding, weathered to a comforting caramel, contrast the verdant environment. Inside the villas a small kitchen, living room and separate bedroom and bath are flooded by sunshine from the south-facing windows. ponds that host ducks, frogs and fish sit perpendicular to the villas’ porches, and orchards where pomegranate and citrus cling to branches weave past the Chestnut House, a furnished stand-alone guesthouse. In 2015 the reception building was built as a “place for people to gather so that they are not always stuck in their room.” A cosy wood-stove, wood panelling, floorto-ceiling windows and cork floors give the space an airy, cabin feel. Design features take inspiration from the surroundings like a glimmering basalt countertop. The couple have plans to build 3 additional villas, and turn a portion of the property currently used by the

government for aggregate extraction into a terraced garden. The aim, though, is to keep the ambiance. “We don’t want to grow more; we want to keep it a family place.”

BEST ACTIVITIES Hiking trails, endless gardens, and a round saltwater pool make the property ideal for relaxing and enjoying nature. One of the highlights of my trip was touring the property in Manuel’s 20 year old Jeep. properly suited up, our ﬁrst foray was the beehives. Smaller than continental bees, and having feasted on heather, the dark honey they produce tastes divine. “It’s exciting and scary. you have to focus, it forces you to do one thing at a time and stay calm. If you go around swatting the bees then it will be worse,” admits Manuel. Eventually we made our way to the highest point on the property with panoramic views to the lake beyond. There, we had a lovely picnic (Helena insists on beautifully arranging everything with accompanying ﬂowers) and chatted about whales, rocks, birds and plants (the pair have a genuine care for the environment).

DINING Helena and Manuel excitedly usher me into the spotless kitchen proudly showing off their Thermomix machine. Nearly every item here is homemade. breakfast features bolo levedo, the local English muffin-style bread, yogurt, cheese, cold cuts, and fruit. One afternoon I join one of the kitchen staff who lines a large stock pot with onions, peppers, potatoes, tomatoes, fish, and olives all seasoned with an olive oil and pimento sauce. That night, I accompany Manuel to the nearby volcanic grounds where the pot has stayed underground for hours, and retrieve the cozido. Dessert is magical – pineapple tart, a coconut Swiss roll, and chocolate fudge brownie.

BOTTOM LINE The couple live onsite, their home once serving as reception, and guests are treated as extended family. – K.M.

The exterior of the hotel surrounded by lush greenery. Chefs of À Terra at dinner. Outdoor dining. A carrot salad at the hotel’s restaurant. Inside the beautiful spa enjoying a soak.

FURNAS BOUTIQUE HOTEL THERMAL AND SPA

SAO MIGUEL

Set amidst lush greenery, the hotel excels at taking advantage of its prime location near the hot springs that have made the region famous. The natural environment inspires the décor, the excellent food from À Terra which captures the tastes of the wood fired oven and the stylish spa. LOCATION Nestled in the verdant foothills of north-eastern São Miguel that frame the view of this 54 room and suite hotel, nature shines here. Turn in any direction and the natural beauty of the island comes into view. Across the street the Jardim público da Courela provides a beautiful oasis including a taro lined waterway. Nearby, the island’s volcanic makeup is evident in bubbling caldeiras (hot springs). DESIGN Once the municipal thermal baths, the hotel recently underwent a transformation. Spread over just two ﬂoors, giant murals with plant motifs mirror the exterior landscape. While 70s-style retro touches give the hotel an urban edge, like a wall of old records that decorates the bar area. This fusing of the industrial and natural culmi54

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nates in the restaurant À Terra. Lounging nooks are also a welcome feature of the hotel, all enhanced by natural light ﬂooding in from the windows and skylights.

BEST AMENITIES The hotel has a strong focus on wellness with a thermal circuit of dynamic pools, aromatic showers, Turkish bath, and sauna, all enriched with Furnas’ thermal spring waters. The minimalist white and black décor lend a luxe element to the spa, where soft plumes of smoke rise from the indoor and outdoor thermal pools, an ideal way to spend an afternoon. After soaking in the therapeutic waters, my masseuse Andreia Medeiros first offers a lavender sea salt foot scrub before a tailor made massage that immediately alleviates my tired muscles. best of all there are only a handful of guests so there is an added benefit of privacy.

DINING Dark wood and long industrial farmhouse tables are neatly set up at À Terra Furnas restaurant. The wood ﬁred oven, and Josper (a combination of a charcoal grill and oven) make for a menu that highlights pizzas, bruschettas, and roasts prepared in traditional portuguese style. The slightly pickled bluejack mackerel comes to the table sizzling, presented on the lava stones that it was cooked on and served alongside a carrot salad with roasted potatoes and romesco sauce. For dessert, the chestnut cake and ice cream is a hearty way to end the meal.

BOTTOM LINE The centrepiece of the hotel is undoubtedly the gorgeous spa. Gourmand dining experiences, and a tranquil setting round out the hotel's repertoire. – K.M.

Inside a guestroom. A staff member at breakfast. All rooms look out onto the marina across the street. Mackerel salad with olive tapenade at À Terra restaurant. One of the common spaces.

AZOR HOTEL

SAO MIGUEL

Sea and land define the design ethos of this newly opened sleek hotel in Ponta Delgada. Boasting marina views from all of its 123 rooms and suites, large windows throughout also offer views of the old city. The friendly staff and indulgent breakfast spread along with a multitude of amenities attracts an international crowd. LOCATION A rooftop pool perfectly illustrates the contrasts of this hotel. Elevated above white lounge chairs and a bar its trendy, small ,black mosaic tiles look nothing like the surrounding baroque buildings. Indeed the entire rooftop lounge, supported by concrete pillars and rectangular open air concrete slabs, is abstract art compared to the whitewashed buildings and red tile roofs of the ancient buildings nearby. Merely 15 minutes walk to ponta Delgada and 10 minutes from the airport, it is close to many of the architectural attractions, restaurants and bars of the capital. DESIGN While common areas like a lounge on certain ﬂoors are open and airy, other design elements get their cool factor from being cleverly concealed. A black wall in the breakfast dining room actually leads to banquet space. In rooms, bathroom doors slide both ways to become walls (all in shiny black), a recessed mantle stores trinkets and a closet hides behind curtains. Wood is used throughout to bring warmth to the space. best of all a balcony looks out onto the marina, perfect for people watching.

BEST AMENITIES Complimentary local non-alcoholic beverages (Kima passionfruit and laranjada) and water in the fridge set the tone of friendly service. The casino, bar, free private parking, and wine and cheese shop give the hotel a vibrant edge.

DINING breakfast dining spans three rooms and includes cold cuts, cheese, meat, fruit, bread, cakes, cereal as well as an omelette/crepe station. Wandering the set-up, speaking with the friendly wait staﬀ and deciding on your feast, is a fun and delicious way to begin the morning. To take advantage of Azores bounty of fresh seafood, at dinner, begin with the ultra fresh horseshoe mackerel served with olive tapenade and crisp croutons, followed by the delicate trygon ﬁsh served in mild broth and end with a slice of local Sao Miguel pineapple served with vanilla ice cream.

BOTTOM LINE unique features like the décor, amenities and dining along with a friendly staﬀ make this an exceptional choice in ponta Delgada. – K.M.

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RESOURCE GUIDE AZORES, pORTuGAL

GETTING THERE Azores Airlines Azores-based airline operating direct flights to São Miguel from Toronto, throughout the year, and from Montreal between July and August. Also offers convenient and frequent inter-island (Azores) flights. azoresairlines.pt

USEFUL INFORMATION Visit Azores An archipelago in the Atlantic Ocean comprising 9 islands, these volcanic beauties are carpeted in green rolling hills, and feature distinct architecture, UNESCO World Heritage sites and a unique cuisine. visitazores.com TERCEIRA

EAT AND STAY Pousada de São Sebastião Historic former 16th century fortress turned 29-room hotel with views of the sea. Rua do Castelinho, 9700045 Angra do Heroísmo; +351 295 403 560; pousadas.pt/pt/hotel/pousada-angra

Verde Maçã Restaurant Café serving local specialities and casual fare in a convivial atmosphere with musical instruments serving as decoration. Owned by a former national Portuguese basketball player. Rua Direita nº 111 – 113, 9700-066 Angra do Heroísmo; +351 295 218 294; verdemaca.pt

Tasca das Tias Recently opened restaurant where wood features prominently in the industrial-chic decor. Its name refers to home-style cooking, here served with a modern twist. Try the almond tart with caramel and limpets. Rua de Sāo Joāo 113, 9700-191, Angra do Heroísmo; +351 295 628 062

SEE & DO Vaquinha Cheese Factory The largest cheese factory on Terceira Island located in Angra do Heroísmo. Watch as cheese is produced into gigantic wheels and then sample it. exploreterceira.com

Algar do Carvão Visit the 90 metre-deep lava tube, remnant of volcanic activity that occurred thousands of years ago.

Serra do Cume Stunning lookout point from which the island’s verdant patchwork quilt interior where land is divided by volcanic rock walls provide the foreground to the glistening bay of Praia da Vitória.

Alto da Memória Yellow obelisk dating from the 19th century to commemorate the visit of King D. Pedro IV.

Jardim Duque da Terceira Traditional, manicured garden featuring flora from around the world, water features and relaxing resting spots.

Praça Velha The old square of the main town of Angra do Heroísmo where much night-time and daytime activity takes place. Also features the town hall with its famous tower.

Sé Catedral (Cathedral of Angra do Heroísmo) 16th-century cathedral of immense patrimonial importance which exhibits the arquitectura chã style. 56

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Igreja da Misericórdia Built in the 1700s, it features a striking blue and white facade.

Monte Brasil A volcanic summit from which two bays, seaside settlements, a fortress, islets and the island’s highest peak come into view. FAIAL

EAT AND STAY Azoris Faial Garden Near the marina, this 131 room hotel features a hammam, tennis court, pools and restaurant. A highlight is the stunning view of a nearby cloud covered volcanic peak towering over the Atlantic ocean. Rua Cônsul Dabney, 9900-856 Horta; +351 292 207 400; azorishotels.com/faialgarden/hotel

Genuino Restaurant Sailor Genuíno Madruga twice circumnavigated the globe and his mementos decorate his eponymous restaurant. Specializing in seafood, the restaurant tells his story through amazing ocean-side views, Madruga’s friendliness and of course, the delicious food. Areinha velha, n.º 9, Angustias 9900-011 Horta, Faial; +351 292 701 542; genuino.pt

SEE & DO Capelinhos Volcano The Martian landscape, barren except for a lighthouse that has survived, is the result of a recent volcanic eruption where new land was formed. The newly opened Capelinhos Volcano Interpretation Centre describes volcanic activity generally and the conditions that led to this eruption specifically. parquesnaturais.azores.gov.pt PICO

EAT AND STAY Aldeia da Fonte Volcanic stone is an icon of the islands and it is thoroughly integrated into this hotel retreat featuring 6 cliffside villas, a whale-watching tower, tai chi garden and restaurant. Caminho de Baixo, Silveira 9930-177 Lajes do Pico; + 351 292 679 500; aldeiadafonte.com

SEE & DO Criação Velha Vineyards A UNESCO World Heritage site consisting of a unique (look twice to recognize them) system of viticulture whereby grape vines are planted in between volcanic stone walls that serve to protect them from wind and sea spray. Azores Wine Company Leveraging the unique vineyards of Pico, partners António Maçanita, Filipe Rocha and Paulo Machado’s winery produces red, whites and rosé including the first Azorean sparkling. Rua dos Biscoitos, 3 São Mateus 9950-542 Madalena, Pico; +351 292098070; azoreswinecompany.com

Futurismo Whale watching is a must-do in the islands. Board a zodiac and search the Atlantic ocean for blue whales, sperm whales and several dolphin species with informative guides from this tour company. futurismo.pt

Casa Âncora Enjoy one of the best meals in the Azores at this ubermodern restaurant. Standout dishes include Azorean stone crab paté with avocado mousse, grilled octopus with mashed sweet potatoes and tomato salsa and

chocolate tart. An excellent wine list including local and Portuguese wines rounds out the experience. casaancora.eu

Tour the Island Visit the parish of Santa Luzia with its typical volcanic stone architecture, the quaint village of Lajido with its markings of lava overflow and the craggy coastline of Cachorro. SÃO MIGUEL

EAT AND STAY Azor Hotel This newly-opened modern hotel across from the marina features a large breakfast buffet spread, an excellent restaurant and friendly staff. Av. Dr. João Bosco Mota Amaral, 9500-765 Ponta Delgada; +351 296 249 900; azorhotel.com

Terra Nostra Garden Hotel Situated near Terra Nostra Park which features a thermal, iron-rich swimming pool and more than 2000 trees, the hotel’s restaurant provides local and international fare in a pleasant atmosphere.

Furnas Boutique Hotel Thermal & Spa Incredible spa facilities that draw from the natural thermal springs on the island make this hotel ideal for wellness seekers. With a restaurant that specializes in delicious wood-fired dishes and a beautiful setting near a local park, it is a quiet retreat. Avenida Dr. Manuel de Arriaga, Furnas, 9675-022 São Miguel; +351 296 249 200; furnasboutiquehotel.com

Termas da Ferraria On the island’s northwestern coast, this spa, restaurant and geothermal pool complex benefits from its stunning seaside setting. Rua Ilha Sabrina, 9555-102 Ginetes; +351 296 295 669; termasdaferraria.com

Caldeiras & Vulcoes Restaurante Specializing in cozida (food cooked in underground thermal pits), this two-storey family-run restaurant has a modern feel. Try the queijadas de inhame (small cakes made with local taro). Rua das Caldeiras nº36, 9675045 Furnas; +351 296 584 312; caldeirasevulcoes.com Furnas Lake Villas This family run boutique hotel within a 5-minute walk of Furnas lake features jeep tours on the extensive 103hectare property (including beehives), cozida cooking classes, an excellent restaurant, and pool. Self-catering villas and the genuine warmth of the owners make this an Azorean gem. Estrada Regional do Sul, Lagoa das Furnas, 9675-090 Furnas; +351 296 584 107; furnaslakevillas.pt SEE & DO Lagoa do Fogo Mist regularly shrouds this lake which transforms from teal to navy blue depending on the light.

Caldeira Velha A waterfall of iron-rich water entices guest to soak.

Chá Gorreana Europe’s first and only tea plantation planted on slopes that gently caress the sea.

Sete Cidades This volcanic crater is filled with two lakes connected by a land bridge. On a clear day, this is one of the most aweCSL inspiring sights in the islands.

“The power of imagination makes us inﬁnite.

- JOHN MuIR

DR. ROOKMIN MAHARAJ

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