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Lava Tubes and Sea Turtles by Kathy Richardier, photos by Doug Proctor

My friend Doug and I have been together about 13 years, living together about nine and it’s not like we wanted to have children – been dare, done dat. But, he decided he wanted to make us official, so he gave me a necklace with a beautiful raw diamond engagement pendant. He’s a geologist and into rocks. We were married last July. His sons and my daughter were happy and my daughter, Chloé, said we needed a holiday (first in two years), so she “cashed in” Avion points and sent us off to Maui for a honeymoon. Such a good daughter.

Top of Haleakala.

Our idea was to stay here and there, seeing and doing whatever we could find, so I scooped good places for us to stay as we circumnavigated the island. First stop was in Paia, not far from the airport, then further east at Hana, then ending up back west at Kihei.

DAY 1 TO 5: PAIA When we arrived, we picked up our car and headed east to Paia, north shore, and a bit beyond to the Kuau Inn Bed and Breakfast, a charming yellow house at the end of a sugar cane field. Comfortable room, good supplies for breakfast – coffee, tea, juices, cereal, yogurt, bagels, muffins, toast – and nice other people who were staying there. For a couple of days we shared a bathroom upstairs, not a big deal at all. Then, they left and it was all ours until we left a couple days later. Kuau didn’t provide stretches of beach, although Paia did. We found great rocky beaches near us and explored them, finding lots of rocks with faces on them. We almost always see rocks that look like faces. While at the Kuau Inn, we walked to the Kuau store just a bit east of the Inn, a great place to get wine, beer and tasty meals, salads, sandwiches made fresh at the deli, and great bread too. That was what we brought back to the B & B for some of our meals – we didn’t cook, though the others did. We went into Paia, too, and ate at some good places, like Milagros and Café Mambo, on the main street. Good food and fun people. We discovered that what seems to be the most famous and popular restaurant in Maui – Mama’s Fish House – was just a short walk east of the Kuau store. When we first noticed it, we were driving and pulled into the parking lot to see what was up. The dudes who park your car told us that no way we could get in if we didn’t

Rocky beaches of Kuau.

have a reservation, that people reserve months in advance. It was that popular. It looked great, situated on a small beach, and we figured if we walked back we could get in and see what was really up. The evening before we left Kuau, we walked to Mama’s and heard the same “full up, can’t get in” story from the outside people, but we went in anyway and the inside people were more agreeable. We wandered past the first bar in the dining room to a second bar behind the dining room. Very busy indeed, no room at the bar, even. However, we noticed that against the room divider between bar and dining room, there were three tall loungestyle tables for two people, one of which was empty. One of the barkeeps walked by and said it was ours. We ate very well, which might explain Mama’s popularity. Doug had a Pau Hana cocktail made with lime, guava and Bombay Gin and we loved it. We shared a selection of perfectly prepared appetizers – shrimp wonton with macadamia nut dipping sauce, macadamia nut crab cakes, crisp mahimahi rolls and a baby romaine salad with blue cheese, Maui onion ranch dressing and grilled focaccia. So, Mama’s isn’t necessarily out of reach if you haven’t reserved months or years in advance. We were rather pleased with ourselves.

The volcano drink at the Milagros in Paia.

We explored the beaches in Paia, then took the road to the Haleakala volcano’s crater and stopped at a lavender farm on the way – we always stop if something interesting presents itself. You can hike the volcano crater, but we didn’t because it’s very long and we weren’t prepared. If we go back, we for sure will.

DAY 6 AND 7: HANA We bid farewell to the people we were sharing the B& B with and headed to Hana on the Hana Highway. While cruising along we passed a big sign that said Jungle Zipline, so we turned around and went in to investigate and I discovered how breath-taking and fun ziplining is. We did all seven ziplines for about two hours, through and above the jungle, feet hitting the occasional banana in a tree, good guide dudes talking about the jungle flora as we walked from one zipline to the next. An exciting and fun adventure. When I first stepped off the platforms and flung myself into space – woooooooooooosh! – it definitely took my breath away, but it was exciting flying to the next platform.

Mama's Fish House great Pau Hana cocktail.


Mama's Fish House good food. MARCH APRIL 2018

The ziplines vary in length and you can do however many you want. After we finished, we retired to the “bar” for juices and snacks and a yak with the nice guide dudes. Then on to Hana again.

City Palate March April 2018  

The Flavour of Calgary’s Food Scene - The Travel Issue

City Palate March April 2018  

The Flavour of Calgary’s Food Scene - The Travel Issue