Knitted textile technincal designer Flat/Circular knit based. Based in Taiwan
Nottingham Trent University MA Textile Design Innovation, /September 2013 – Current. Fu Jen Catholic University BA (Hons) Textile design, /September 2007 – June 2011.
Notion Nottingham, Nottingham /July 2014 ND New designers, London /June 2014 Long Root Enterprise CO., Ltd, Taipei, Taiwan Knitting Designer - Collecting fashion forecast/trend - Designed knitted scarves, gloves, hat - Built online shopping platform /May 2012 – November 2012 ECLAT TEXTILE CO., LTD Internship under following department: Yarn binding, yarn dye, circular knitting, piece dye and QC. /September 2010 Chinese Traditional Pattern Research, Taipei, Taiwan Part-Time Research Assistant /September 2010 – November 2010
Design Development General textile knowledge CAD knitting program (SHIMA) Circular CAD knitting program (PAILUNG) Photoshop/ Illustrator
Awarded” Excellency In textile Design” in Bachelor’s Degree Textile Design Exhibition /2011 Organizer of BA Degree Textile Design Exhibition /2011
Capture dance movement interpreting into knitting design, and to create an interaction between human body and fabric for generating a series movements with different sensations. By making a prototype garment to exploit the potential for performance wear and sportswear.
Iris Van Herpen
Dance is particularly complicated to be defined from diverse styles of dance. So I extracted some key elements such as the exaggerating shape created by motions, flowing lines and interaction which could be found in the images I choose, those are from three different areas as a contextual background. And it is interesting to find the connection is between. Eventually, it turns out to be an integrated info of the project.
At first stage, I thought my project was going to combine 3D printing and knitting as a new design method for knitwear or knitted textile design, so I was thinking that to simulate the quality of 3D printing through craft foam which is a heat setting material. So that it could be transformed into different shapes as possible as I want. I began with chopped minor rectangle pieces to pile up as a mosaic-form dress which every single pieces was been pinched after heated, as you can find the wrinkles on the foam in the picture. After a few tests, I moved on to thinking about how to interpret dance movement with this technique under a similar method. Thus, I cut the foam with free lines made it into irregular shapes and arranged them on the mannequin presenting that the lines created by each pieces jointing together flowing and moving upon the mannequin within a certain space.
In addition, I experimented several tries, and every tests were slightly different, I kept trying with different concepts to depict dance from different aspects. While I was experimenting, I learnt how to explore more and develop more from a tiny specific point based on previous design, and to keep on.
After gone through the first stage, the experiment with craft foam, I was thinking I have to start to think about knitting part of the project. So based on the same method, I refreshed the experiment combining with the other material â€“ Jersey fabric. So that the silhouette was been made based on jersey fabric, and the foam as 3D printing was only a decorative part of the whole design which I hoped it can be a very subtle part of the design.
I created 6 different designs. At the beginning, I was lost, because the characteristic of these two materials were quite different, and also I wanted to translate dance into design. So the first try was incredibly dreadful and disagreeable, because I was keen to put everything in.
Therefore, I adjusted some of the design to make it better, re-organised the proportion of jersey and foam, thought as a fashion designer not a costume designer, adding foam as a subtle part of the design, and reviewed the research and inspiration I done.
At this stage, I started thinking about knit, after I developed the works I did with foam, started to think about how to translate those experiments into knitting design. There had a few points that I was concerning. The capability of knitting structure that I was going to develop should be a self-supportive structure, because I wanted to make it sculptural. Then I wanted it to have line-like structure to present the flowing quality within itself. Besides, the last point is that I want to make it to be interactive for responding against human body.
Eventually, the ripples structure became my final candidate, because it can easily and simply reach those qualities I mentioned. As a result, I started to play around with ripples with different other techniques, especially partial knit. Partial knit, as a main method in the project, was been applied into the rest of the fabrics I would develop.
This was the first structure I came to, pleats jersey. Apparently, it didnâ€™t reach the self-supportive point I mentioned, so I looked into other stitches like spacer stitch.
As I said, I started to develop several different panels under ripples, partial knit, and made it being sculptural. The following one, I added extra ripples between each area to make it swelled as the ripples flows on the body, and then I refined it as colour black which will be the main tone of the project.
This is an example for trying arranging those ripples in a blockby-block way, and then piled them up as a building, so that consequently the ripples will rise up giving a bubble-like effect.
I did some draping for to see how the effect was so far at that time, to make sure each step are them reach my expectation or not. If not, I will fix the issue and then keep on. Besides the fabric I used containing the pleats fabric I kitted before, and it seems that it has a different effect, which is I need to fold them for being a sculptural outfit.
However, the draping created by ripples fabrics were closer to what I expected, which is to create a sculptural design by presenting the quality of the fabric only. You can easily find out that the fabric was creating a shape over mannequin without other manipulation. What I did was only pinned them on the mannequin.
As speaking of interaction, I considered elastic yarn as one of the most proper material to generate interaction, so that I started experimenting with elastic yarn. The elastic yarn was been added in between those ripples to make it being responsive. However, the structure wasnâ€™t as simple as I expected. The experiment didnâ€™t go well initially, there were several issue needed to be solved, such as the pattern was been blocked by ripples, the elastic pattern didnâ€™t hide well, the strength of elastic need to be selected etc.
Here is what I expected at the beginning, I wanted to add a contrast colour elastic between ripples, so that if the fabric is been pulled out, the pattern which is been created by elastic yarn will show up and give a contrast colour as well for exaggerating an interaction responding movement of human body.
Eventually, by co-working with the technician it came out with a satisfied outcome solving all of the issue above. Subsequently, I designed the pattern inspired by previous experiment to make the pattern more diverse.
I tried to find a material to simulate the texture that foam gave which was the heat-setting quality, then I found Grilon which is low melting fusible yarn, and it will melt at 80-90 C degree. Therefore, once the Grilon was melted, the fabric can be transformed into the shape I want as same as foam.
The next step was to think about how to joint/combine the sample I developed, and to distinguish each sample by comparing the characteristic they got. Also to define what is the core of the project.
Here is the experiment that I jointed the fabrics, which have a similar quality to my knitted fabric, together randomly to look into the different interactions from different joints against human body.
Besides, I took a short film for recording the difference under the situation that I gave the performer a selected keyword- survival.
In addition, I got an idea to develop another basic ripples structure which I called it â€“ brain, created by the decreasing ripples within a course.
I decided to focus on interaction among all the developments/researches I done, and kept developing refined final outcomes and making prototypes.
These are the outcomes of integration, each structure was been integrated with elastic yarn for interactivity. The first one was an initial developed structure knitted with elastic yarn. The second one was inspired by brain structure. The one following was also inspired by brain structure with each course following with an elastic yarn. The last one was integrated with bubble structure.
I was going to make two prototype for presenting how the garment interact against the movement of human body, to accomplish the original concept of the project. Besides, these two prototypes were made in different thoughts. The first one was been made to show the interactivity in a more subtle way, so that the garment is more close to ready-to-wear jumper with a designed shoulder joint. On the other hand, the second one was been created to present the contrast between rigid, semi-rigid and flexible fabrics, so that it was been produced with two separated haft with different materials.
Final outcomes was been photographed with long exposure method for depicting how the fabric moving and interacting. Each fabric presents different atmospheres, so that audience can imagine that how if the fabric is been used for their product or performance.
Chutai Lu is knitting textile designer based in Taiwan; his work is inspired by dance movement, Chinese calligraphy, and others. He intends to capture dance movement interpreting into knitting design with his observation, his past experience, and collaborated with photographer who helps him took a series photoshoot of dancer with time-lapse technique. The brand's core connected by moving and static photos of knitted fabric makes Chutai Lu's designs distinguishes from ordinary, common textile designer normally presented a collection of still textile photos showing the pattern, structure, yarn-choosing and colors on him/her design.
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Published on Oct 1, 2014