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of the welcomes

THE OTHER SIDE OF THE MOUNTAIN THE CEIDE FIELDS CLARE’S WILD ATLANTIC WAY

SEPT/OCT 2016


by Alice Taylor

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Alice Taylor tells the story of a woman who grew up beyond the mountains of Alice’s childhood in Kerry’s beautiful Black Valley.

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way in the distance across the valley three miles daily to the local Glen National School. from where I grew up were the Kerry The teacher at the time would love with a local Mountains. They edged my childhood family. As this did not always work out the teacher horizons. I often wondered what lay at the school often changed. Eileen remembers five beyond those mountains. Looking across different teachers during her National School years. at the changing colours I sensed that the valleys The challenges of Black Valley living often proved beyond had to be beautiful. The most stunning of all too much for the young teachers accustomed to a was the Black Valley. different life style. One teacher she remembered What was it like I wondered to grow up in that would allow the children to go up the mountain remote valley? and when she wanted them to come back down she Years later when I met Eileen I found out. Eileen was would ring a bell. born and reared in the Black Valley which runs from After school Eileen often emptied her sack of Moll’s Gap to the Gap of Dunloe, probably the most books and headed off up the mountain with her beautiful valley in Ireland. But when Eileen’s mother siblings to pick wild strawberries, hazelnuts and Julia was born there in 1895 there was no question blueberries. They picked until their sacks were full that she could remain. Beautiful scenery then did not and then sat on the mountain side and ate until they a livelihood as tourism “had room for no more.” was not the industry that They brought home it is today. Emmigration the rest. In the valley was the answer to their below the house was problem. One day when two blueberry bushes on she was a teenager Julia’s which they loved to feast. mother said to her: “Do During one winter hike you know Julia that you up the mountains, Eileen are going to America in fell in to a deep drain and the morning?” hurt her hand. The local It was part of their way doctor could not travel due that the young went to to the icy mountainy roads England or America. So and it was a full week later Julia went to the railway before her broken hand was station in Kenmare and set. With a healthy diet and took the train to Cobb. non-stop walking they were There she boarded a fit and healthy and able to liner for America and withstand the challenges of - Alice Taylor it took her six weeks to Black Valley living. get to her destination. Sometimes if heavy She spent seven years in rains came in the winter the United States but the call of the beautiful Black the eater from the streams and waterfalls ran down Valley brought her back. In the final days of her visit the mountain and into their home. For a child this home from America she met an old school friend in was great excitement. Eileen remembers the music Kenmare who queried: “Why are you going back to of the mountain streams in summer. America when the Black Valley is full of bachelors The Irish turf board, Bord na Mona, cut the turf looking for wives?” and the valley women helped with the work of “There is only one man who would keep me from footing and stoking and got paid by the Bord. All the going back to America and that’s your brother Denis,” homes in the Black Valley faced the winter with a Julia told her. reek of black turf by the house and as they lived in a “Leave it with me,” her surprised friend told her. forest there was not shortage of brambles and fallen The result of that chance meeting was a wedding the trees for fire wood. following year when Julia married the love of her life The family had seven cows but they farmed and went on to rear a family of five. One boy and four mostly sheep. The sheep grazed the mountains girls and Eileen, now 85, is one of those girls. and sometimes her father rented more land off an When Eileen talks about growing up in the Black elderly brother and sister who lived on the opposite Valley, a wave of delight suffuses her face. There she mountain. Her father watched the chimney of that had an enchanted childhood where she walked the house to make sire that smoke came out every

“Looking across at the changing colours I sensed that the valleys beyond had to be beautiful. The most stunning of all was the Black Valley.”

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doled out sweets, biscuits, dolls and a varied selection of toys. There were some adult gifts as well. The children christened him “The Sweet Man.” Nobody knew who these people were and no money changed hands. It was a totally anonymous act of generousity. The people of the Black Valley recognized it as a Cork car and concluded that the man was one of the wealthy merchant princes of Cork. The week before Christmas, Eileen’s parents traveled to Kenmare in the pony and cart. There the Christmas shopping took place and they came home with a big chest full of Christmas fare. This chest, which was lined with silver paper, had originally been a tea chest. On Christmas Eve her mother would stuff the goose and that night they had a big supper which included a pot of jam- a luxury for the children. Behind the fire was a huge log known as Blockeen na Nollag that her father had brought in from the forest. This formed the

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back bone of the fire over the entire Christmas. One Christmas gift that Eileen remembers was a paper lantern with which she played and that later served as a Christmas decoration. Prior to the building of their own church in the Black Valley, the people walked twelve miles to Mass in Derrycunnihy where the seating in the church was sugan chairs. Having first milked the cows they left home at 9.30 in the afternoon. If the river was in flood, their father took each one of the children on his back in turns across the swirling water. They wore wellingtons on the journey but carried their shoes for Mass. On arrival the women and children went into the church but the men stayed outside talking until the arrival of the priest and when the bell rang they filed in. In 1955 they built their own church. Naomh Muire An Chuimin Dubh whuch made Mass attendance


far less onerous undertaking. The church was built by voluntary labour with donations from the Black Valley people in America paying for the materials. Electricity came to the valley in the mid 70s which was twenty years after the rest of Ireland. In some ways it was almost a forgotten valley where a resourceful people depended on their own ability and the world around them to survive. Eileen thinks that it is good for children to be stretched early in life. When her mother was asked what time it was she would open the door, she said she could judge the time by where the sun was on the floor. Her mother loved music and dancing and constantly sang as she worked. Her favourite song was Maggie. At night when their father was gone across the valley visiting the neighbors, her mother had them all out on the floor set dancing.

At the age of 15 Eileen went to Killarney to work in the Muckross Hotel which is now the Muckross Park Hotel. She worked there foe eight years earning ten shillings a week. Every morning she began at 7 am when she took tea to 42 bedrooms. She worked with a light hearted girl named Maureen from Cork and they often careered down the broad bannisters from the top floor, making a swirling arrival into the lobby three floors below. Long before the luxury of ensuites, bedrooms were often far removed from bathrooms containing toilets. The solution was heavy chamber pots some of which were colorfully embossed with roses. Eileen never keen on emptying these vessels of their contents so made a bargain with Maureen that if she did the chamber pots, Eileen would do all the rest of the work. So Maureen would proceed

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purposefully along the corridors bearing her cargo skillfully disguised beneath a draping towel. When she got time off Eileen took the bus home to Kenmare and walked the final stretch through the mountains, across the river and then up the mountain at the other side to her home. She remembers coming on her mother cutting wild fuchsia and the lovely smell of fresh bread that her mother had baked to welcome her home. By then two of her sisters were already in London where she joined them to be a bridesmaid at one sister’s wedding. She stayed for three months and worked in the Cocktail Bar of the Kensington Hotel. It was just after the war so air raid shelters were still a way of life and she was taken aback by the smog and smoke of London. It was a big change from the fresh, clean air of the Black Valley. Then America beckoned and Eileen decided that she would go there and see this place to which so many from the valley had traveled to make their fortune. Sadly some of them never came back. At the time the procedure of getting to America was quite long and complex. To kick off the process she went to Dublin where she stayed with another sister and her husband. She went to the consul for a medical and then to see an agent about booking her passage. She did not relish the prospect of a long boat journey so enquired about the cost of flying. The cost of flying at 60 pounds was quite prohibitive for the time but the agent informed her that she could fly for half price is she facilitated the passage of a baby to a family in America. The baby was in a convent in Dublin. He told her that on the day of the flight he would pick her up and then collect the baby from a convent and take them both to Shannon Airport. The baby was a little girl was about three years old who clung to Eileen all the way on the long journey. Eileen never forget that little girl and often wondered how she fared. Due a terrible storm they had come down to Finland but Eileen has no reconciliation of being afraid. When they finally arrived in the USA, a family was waiting for the little girl. This was the fifth child they had gotten from Ireland – a piece of the jigsaw of society, parents, the church and the government colluding to brush unfortunate mothers and their children out of their hair. Years later when these children came back to find their birth mothers the entire jigsaw fell into place. Eileen traveled on to Chicago where she went for an interview and got a job in a restaurant where she was later promoted to the Executive Room. She loved the positive encouraging approach of the American people and spent twelve years there regularly spending parcels back home. Often as she

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wrapped up what in Ireland was known as ‘the parcel from America’ her tears mingled with the little luxuries that she knew would be so appreciated at home. She felt that she was posting back her tears to the Black Valley. She got great joy from sending home special items to her mother who had never indulged in buying herself luxuries. But Eileen remembered her admiration for special items of clothing in shop windows in Kenmare. Her mother had an appreciation of beautiful things. Remembering this Eileen went to a very exclusive store and bought her mother a real leather handbag with matching button boots. Their arrival in the Black Valley caused great excitement and the elegant button boots fitted her mother perfectly. When her parents built a new home she posted back all the curtains for the house to the great delight of her mother. Then in 1963 she made a return journey and still recalls the joy of being reunited with her mother off a 7 am flight into Shannon Airport. When she came around the corner at Moll’s Gap she saw afresh and appreciated more the beauty of her beloved Black Valley. On that visit home she tried to tempt her mother to accompany her hairdresser and get her hair curled in the fashion of the time for a special occasion that was coming up but he mother was having none of it!

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On that visit home, in the valley church Eileen married Michael who is still her lifelong companion. Michael had gone to America before her and came back after her. When the ceremony was over they went back to the family home for what was then called the Wedding Breakfast. For days prior to the wedding the entire family has cooked and baked and after the wedding breakfast people lined up around the kitchen floor and sets were danced to the music of local musicians. Later they were joined by the Biddy Boys and they all danced and celebrated into the early hours. She and Michael returned to America for another four years and then came back for good in 1967 with their young son. Tourism had taken off in Ireland so they built a family home and guest house in Muckross Road which they still run together. To Eileen the Black Valley is the most beautiful place in the world and she looks back on her childhood there with the philosophy that it is possible to be happy on very little. There as a child she had listened to the call of the cuckoo and the musical tones of the cascade of water running down the mountains to the river. Now in the early summer she likes to return to the valley to hear the cuckoo and the music of the rushing water falls.


“To Eileen the Black Valley is the most beautiful place in the world and she looks back on her childhood there with the philosophy that it is possible to be happy on very little.� - Alice Taylor -

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