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PA S T RY B A K E RY G E L AT O C U I S I N E

EASTER CHOCOLATE EGGS GIANLUCA FUSTO’S PROFILE SICILIAN CONFECTIONERY TRADITION PASTRY AND CUISINE RECIPES TECHNOLOGY AND PRODUCT NEWS

issue sixteen-2010

CHIRIOTTI EDITORI

10064 PINEROLO - ITALIA - Tel. +390121393127 - Fax +390121794480 www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - info@pasticceriainternazionale.it


On this issue Meeting between hemispheres thinking of a playful solution Chocolate Easter eggs Capri Sweet Sweet Sensations Of Sicily Beyond Traditional Gelato Fragrant Mix A Natural Player

Pasticceria Internazionale - World Wide Edition 10064 Pinerolo (Torino) Viale della Rimembranza 60 tel. +39 0121 393127 - fax +39 0121 794480 info@pasticceriainternazionale.it

Recipes From The Ifse

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Livia Chiriotti SENIOR EDITOR Emilia Coccolo Chiriotti NEWS EDITORS Cristina Quaglia Milena Novarino Monica Onnis ASSISTANT EDITOR Chiara Comba TRANSLATIONS Alexander Martin MARKETING EDITOR Monica Pagliardi ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Luigi Voglino voglino@chiriottieditori.it ART DIRECTOR Studio Grafico Impagina PRINTED BY Tipografia Giuseppini

Red as love

News Interpretations between past and future Caramel glaze Processing machines for chocolate Quality in a new format Always at the top A new member of Relais Desserts Italian exhibitions and events

Pasticceria Internazionale - World Wide Edition is happily published in Italy by Chiriotti Editori Copyright © 2010 by Chiriotti Editori All rights reserved No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior written permission from the publishing house

Dulcis in Naples Déco Relief’s new website

Supplement of “Pasticceria Internazionale” n. 225 January 2010 ON OUR COVER Unicamente Nocciola Gianluca Fusto

Value added pasteurized products The rapid cold is changed

SINCE 1978 THE MEETING POINT THE PLEASURE OF GETTING INFORMED

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PASTRY

MEETING BETWEEN HEMISPHERES

thinking of a playful solution We were speaking of Gianluca Fusto, class of 1975, before he became a household name thanks to his brilliant career first as chef pâtissier in renowned restaurants, then as a Valrhona demonstrator. He was a student at the Carlo Porta hotel-management school of Milan, when we awarded him a prize. Since then we have met several times – the world of sweets is a small one indeed – with increasing regularity; we admire the difficult path he has taken for his training, and his ability to bring together, with humility and a strong desire to understand, culture, science, history, research and experimentation, all mixed with the instinct and courage of going beyond. And these are the primary elements of his love and passion for confectionary. Gianluca expresses these feelings in the way he acts, speaks and researches; they have let him acquire his own personal style in which details are fundamental. And it is with the details that we begin our chat, which both of us wanted, so as to be able to talk about this new phase in Gianluca's professional development, and more.

WHAT GIANLUCA FUSTO DOES IS CREATIVE MATHEMATICS, MANAGING TO BRING TOGETHER THE TWO HEMISPHERES OF HIS BRAIN: THE EMOTIVE AND THE RATIONAL. AND THE RESULT IS A PROFESSIONAL IN CONTINUAL EVOLUTION, HUNGRY FOR RESEARCH AND CHANGE, YET WITH SOUND IDEAS ABOUT TECHNIQUE, TECHNOLOGY, INGREDIENTS, AND THE FUTURE OF THE SECTOR, INCLUDING A SEARCH FOR PLAYFULNESS

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UNICAMENTE NOCCIOLA (ONLY NUT) DEVELOPS THE SIMPLICITY AND ELEGANCE OF NOCCIOLA TONDA GENTILE PIEMONTE IGP, A SUPERIOR VARIETY OF ITALIAN HAZELNUTS. THIS MODERN CAKE IS COMPOSED BY A BISCUIT MADE OF JIVARA CHOCOLATE AND HAZELNUTS, GRACEFULLY MIXED WITH A LIGHT CARAMELIZED CHOCOLATE MOUSSE, PERFUMED WITH MACIS (THE FLOWER OF NUTMEG); THE LOT IS WRAPPED IN A WHITE CHOCOLATE AND HAZELNUT MOUSSE WITH SALTY FLAKES. THE CAKE IS GLAZED WITH A LEMON SCENTED PRALINATED GLAZE, AND THE DECORATION, IN ITS SIMPLICITY, MAGNIFIES THE ELEGANCE OF HAZELNUTS.

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What he represents today is a synthesis of his past and of the people he has met, beginning with Aimo Moroni, a father of sorts, and not only professional. "Working at his side means letting oneself be permeated by the magic of ingredients, the alpha and omega of a style of cooking that listens," he confides. And then there are other names: Enrico Parassina, the master of sugar, gave him a feel for the range of colours, while prominent members of the French Ecole du Grand Chocolat Valrhona, Frédéric Bau and Yan Duytsche, conveyed precision, rigour and technique. At Tain l'Hermitage Gianluca arrived at the start of the new millennium as first foreign pastry chef: working side by side with chemists, physicians and food engineers let him understand better the world of ingredients, also with reference to the human organism and the nature of taste. Today the time is ripe for convergence between laboratory and cuisine, technique, creativity and grand products. In 2008 Gianluca Fusto Consulting was established, a mix of courses, consultancy and the sharing of knowledge aimed at all food sectors. His confectionary is of a simple nature, drawing on the four elements evoked through elegant periphrasis, between glimpses of journeys to distant lands and self-assured citations of contemporary art. In the pipeline this year is Laboratorio del Dolce Contemporaneo, a joint effort with Aimo, reproposing recipes of ten years ago, lightening when necessary and fixing aromas when useful. In short, Gianluca is a contemporary alchimist of food.

"Aimo Moroni taught me how to respect the raw material; Frédéric Bau, Yann Duytsche and the l’Ecole du Grand Chocolat Valrhona taught me the rigour of technique, rheology and taste" How do you act in practice? I follow the dogma "separate and bring together". I enjoy moving in the wake of the elements that form matter, following one rule: three products, three structures, three consistencies, three temperatures, three colours. In short, the multiples of three different sensations to provide the palate with complete emotion. Then I move in the direction of essence, where thematic suggestions intersect with clarity of taste, geometry of shapes, and neatness of colour, according to the laws of

aesthetic isomorphism. It is a journey to the heart of matter that finds confirmation in our senses. And the final alchemy happens when technique, attention to detail and perfectionism turn into joy, gourmet pleasure, and a smile. Could you describe exactly what elements you take into consideration? Using completeness of taste as a starting point, you seek to satisfy and interact with the seven sensations that allow you to recognise taste: sight, hearing, smell, aromas, kinesthetic sensations, texture and tempe-

Tell us about your veneration of ingredients. I love to study the raw material, and to learn to respect it. I am particularly interested in its expression, because this is what gives a voice to my work. What I learn I then use to combine, play, have fun and give emotion. SEMPLICITÀ WAS CREATED FOR THE CHRISTMAS PERIOD AND FOR FESTIVITIES. IT IS A SIMPLE SWEET, WITH A NEAT SHAPE AND DESIGN, IN WHICH GEOMETRY IS THE KEY ELEMENT. THE WHITE CHOCOLATE AND COCOA BUTTER SHELL, WHICH IS SPRAYED FOR DECORATION, IS PRESENTED VERTICALLY, EVEN IF TASTING IS HORIZONTAL. THIS IS TO UNDERLINE THE PRINCIPLE OF CONVIVIALITY ON CHRISTMAS DAY, BUT ESPECIALLY THE SPIRIT OF FESTIVITY AND SURPRISE. INSIDE THERE IS A BLEND OF AROMAS RANGING FROM WHITE CHOCOLATE AROMATIZED WITH YUZU AND A SOUR-CHERRY GELATINE AND A CRUNCHY ALMOND BISCUIT WITH CHOCOLATE.

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PASTRY

"My aim is to generate emotions at the moment of tasting, bringing to life a magic made of visual (design, colour) and gustative emotions" "The most difficult aspect of our work is finding the balance and compromise between technical rigour and a desire for change"

"THIS CAKE CAME ABOUT AFTER A TRIP TO MADAGASCAR, FULL OF PERFUMES, SENSATIONS AND EMOTIONS, ONE WHICH I AM PARTICULARLY FOND OF BECAUSE IT WAS THE FIRST TIME I VISITED A COCOA PLANTATION." MADAGASCAR IS BUILT AROUND A DESIRE TO REVISIT THE JAM TART. ON A STREUSEL OF COCOA AND SALT IS A MANJARI MOUSSE COMBINED WITH A COFFEE GELATINE WITH TANARIVA MILK CHOCOLATE AND VANILLA CARAMEL; EVERYTHING IS CLOSED BY A VERY THIN CHOCOLATE CRUST (RATHER LIKE A CHOCOLATE SWEET) BONBON AND SPRAYED WITH COCOA BUTTER. THE MINIMAL SHAPE IS DICTATED BY SIMPLICITY, ELEGANCE AND THE BEAUTY OF THE AFRICAN ISLAND.

rature, based on levels of sugar and fat. Without forgetting rheology and the range of its possible behaviours, to then choose the role it can play in the dish. On the basis of the articulation of taste, the structures and design are selected, combining textures to shapes. I always try to ensure that technique is at the service of the ingredient, conceptuality intrinsic to the palate. The right recipe is the one that adapts to the raw material and to its possible elaborations, in terms of procedure and design. Are there any other aspects on an aesthetic level? Colour and shape are also of great importance: visual clarity evokes the simplicity of confectionary by means of subtraction, which removes the superfluous in search of the essence. Without ever forgoing gourmandise, because dressage and visual sensations must create an uncontainable desire to plunge the spoon into the dessert.

"WITH SEMPLICEMENTE CIOCCOLATO, AMARENA E NOCCIOLA I PRESENT THE COMBINATION THAT I LOVE AND THAT HAVE MADE ME FALL IN LOVE WITH THE WORLD OF CHOCOLATE: GUANAJA, HAZELNUTS AND SOUR CHERRIES. THE AROMATIC POWER OF A FINE SELECTED COCOA, THE FULL-BODIED TASTE OF TONDE AND GENTILI HAZELNUTS, AND THE SWEET SOUR FLAVOUR OF CANDIED SOUR CHERRIES: HOW DELIGHTFUL!"

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What are your basic rules? To build a dish and provide emotion to the palate, rules are necessary. Taste is something defined by perfume, aroma and flavour. Few speak of sensations in the mouth (which can be creamy, crunchy, liquid, or semi-liquid), which result in consistency. The human body is a complex machine. Very important are creativity, technique and respect for ingredients, which must be set off with specific techniques. What comes first: the ingredient or technique? I go against the flow. I start with the product and then select the technique, not the other way round. I do not seek virtuosity as an end in itself, but as something directed at the product. Alpha and omega. The beauty of a mosaic is having tesserae of the same importance. And what about selling appeal? This is the end result of all the work: maximum attention to detail, not only aesthetic, but also with regards taste. Because it is standing out in terms of technique and technology, a respect for ingredients, and originality that makes the difference. What are your suggestions for those who are bearing the brunt of the crisis? There is no use feeling sorry for yourself if you do not seek new ground. Sure, there is a crisis but we have to take it head on, understand it, analyse it and make the most of what others offer. This means reconsidering one's work because we need to put ourselves into question in order to understand how we can express ourselves in order to go beyond habit, convention and the crisis. We need to take a fresh look at every detail and evaluate what products we sell best in order to offer even better. What more can you tell us about the crisis? You need to have the courage and awareness to take a fresh look at production based on sales, so that the client can also see the evolution and is tempted to change. This means putting yourself into question again and reorganising yourself, but it also means sending a strong message to the client. There is a need to go beyond the standard and to ask questions. All too often the attitude is one of resignation without seeking to change the situation. But if something is not working, complaining will not solve the problem. What do you mean by "going beyond"? I mean not stopping at standard procedures. Today everything is normalised for questions of time, personnel, and costs, and so one tries to make products that are as similar to each other as possible with

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WITH TIRAMISĂ™ A MODO MIO I WANT TO REVISIT A CLASSIC THAT NEVER WANES, WHICH REMINDS ME OF MY CHILDHOOD AND THOSE PRECIOUS AND RARE SUNDAY MOMENTS SPENT AT HOME WITH MY FAMILY. THE DISH IS STILL BASED ON STRUCTURES, ON RESPECT FOR THE TASTE OF THIS GREAT SWEET KNOWN THE WORLD OVER, BUT ALSO ON THE REDISCOVERY OF A CLASSIC COMBINATION (ALBEIT SOMEWHAT FORGOTTEN) OF LEMON RIND AND COFFEE.

THE END AND THE BEGINNING IS NEW YEAR'S EVE THE LAST OR FIRST DAY OF THE YEAR? THIS IS WHY "LA FINE E L'INIZIO" IS SQUARE: A PERFECT SHAPE, BECAUSE THERE IS A START AND AN END, AND A CONTINUITY. THIS CAKE ORIGINATES FROM THE IDEA OF DRIED FRUIT SERVED AT THE END OF THE YEAR FOR GOOD LUCK. INSIDE IS HIDDEN THE POWER AND ELEGANCE OF GUANAJA CHOCOLATE, A SOUR-CHERRY GELATINE, AN ALMOND BLANCMANGE REVISITED IN A CRUNCHY CHOCOLATE BISCUIT MILLEFEUILLE, COMPLETE WITH SALTED BUTTER CARAMEL.

an enormous range. But this will not help you emerge and be chosen for your uniqueness. It is like the world of architecture. You can immediately notice an innovator, no matter what nationality. Our mark as pastry chefs must be immediately recognisable and we must not simply stop at doing well what everybody else does. What is your advice with regards product range? Also here you need to have the courage to go beyond: leavened products, cakes, small pastries, tarts, modern cakes, mono portions, small chocolate, ice cream, and gelato confectionary. So there is a need to change or modify products that sell less, with a rational analysis of production times, respecting work times to motivate workers. You have coined the term playful confectionary: what do you mean? Especially in moments like these it is important to diversify as much as possible, with new, playful, original and creative products. The client must be able to play with and not only experience confectionary as a dessert to be tasted. Many companies offer interesting objects like small plastic pipettes, tubes and so on, aimed at making the client interact with the dessert itself. It is a new way to create new interest.

THE ASSOLUTO 2009

BARS REPRESENT A SWEET HEMISPHERE WHICH IN EVERY MOMENT OF THE DAY LET US APPRECIATE CHOCOLATE, FRUIT AND SPICES.

"THIS YEAR'S COMBINATION IS

MILK CHOCOLATE, LEMON AND

CARDAMOM: THE FULL-BODIED

TASTE OF THE MILK, THE ACIDITY OF THE

AMALFI LEMON

AND THE FRESHNESS OF GREEN CARDAMOM, I.E. WHAT

I

CONSIDER TO BE THE GOLD OF

Gianluca Fusto's "art confectionery" changes every six month And what about the Italian identity? Italy is a huge country and culturally, where ingredients are concerned, it is second to none. But it is not a question of traditional products but of traditional ingredients. My aim is to stir emotions using the perfumes, flavours and raw materials of my country. There is a need to work in order to find one's own style, so that people, clients, know that with me they will find something different. And how have you worked to define your style? I have studied, listened with curiosity, researched, compared and experimented for years in search of originality and evolution. I would like this to serve as a model, a point of reference and a source of inspiration for colleagues. I already feel that this is happening abroad, given that I am often told "We never thought an Italian pastry chef could achieve so much!". But I am embittered by this comment, because it proves what I was saying earlier. We Italians are attached to convention and sometimes we are narrow-minded. Habit and routine often have the better of change because of fear and convenience. Habit gives security but it does not improve you. I understand that it is easier to think in terms of norms rather than creative ambitions. Yet there is a need to encourage ambition and improvement, to leave something tangible and to improve oneself and the work one does. I have full respect for this trade and I would like to wake people up and change the situation because it is individual people who make the difference. What does Gianluca Fusto Consulting do? Consultancy, courses and events. I am a freelance professional and I continue to work with Valrhona, with Molino Quaglia, especially on their Petra flour, and with Castellani of Trieste. For them I look for raw materials and ingredients from around the world and they distribute them in Italy. Moreover, I do a lot of work abroad and I am putting the finishing touches to my website, which aims to be useful and personal. I hope it will be up and running by the end of the year. www.gianlucafusto.com Photos www.carlobaronifotografo.it

ITALY".

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NEWS

INTERPRETATIONS BETWEEN PAST AND FUTURE A DIFFERENT APPROACH A change of style defines Costa Group present approach. The booths fitted out at two international events such as Iba and Host were the translations of today market’s requirements: quality, consistency and transparency. The space was divided into an old style Italian bakery and a modern lounge-coffee bar, using innovative solutions to show the products. On the one hand, the style of the bakery recalled the Italian shops of the Fifties: the pastry counter in crude marble, the back-fitting composed of a wooden expository trolley, the lab at sight, the furnace’s hood in copper, the white pottery at the walls, and then… rolling pins, oven shovels, ancient balances, writings, blackboards and old style graphics. Besides the nostalgic hue there was also the technology of furnaces and expositive counters, and through the partnership with companies such as Bindi and Bakermark Italia the place was rich of colours and flavours, thanks to a big variety of cakes, desserts, breads and focaccias. On the other hand, the white and green lounge-cafeteria was more modern and it evoked a carefree sea atmosphere. A very big gazebo was fitted as a winter garden, with small tables, flowers, vases, colourful beach umbrellas and books, where it was possible to sit down and taste the coffees and herb teas. ZONAR’S, THE BEST GREEK CONFECTIONERY WONDERS Zonar’s Café is an ancient and well known café near Syntagma Square in Athens, Greece. The café has been recently enriched by a chocolate pastry shop designed and furnished by Costa Group. The long counter boasts a precious enlightened frontal made of white corian, on which the Zonar’s logo has been reproduced in a decorative way. The counter is a triumph of delights, such as pâte sablé, chocolate semifreddos, fruit cakes, mascarpone cream cones melted with dark chocolate, pastries, coloured bonbons, French style macarons, chocolates... The bright counter stands out from a Liberty style boiserie with a mirror in the centre and the charm of the place is given by the mix of ancient and modern elements, i.e. a table hanged up on the ceiling and impending cylindrical lamps decorated with silk and jewels. On the right side, a framed mirror widens the feeling of depth and a plexiglass structure hides elegantly a small preparation zone. The biscuits and the pralines are showed like jewels and sold in elegant boxes closed with refined silky ribbons. www.costagroup.net

CARAMEL GLAZE Adding a final touch to the finest cakes, Fabbri 1905 glazes are clear icings which create a uniform finishing cover on cakes and semifreddos. Their brilliant colour (which stays the same at temperatures above or below freezing) make them the right aid for pastry chefs who want to add a unique, imaginative touch to their creations. The glazes cut perfectly and always have a delicious yet subtle flavour. Today Fabbri 1905 adds a new product to the range: Caramel glaze. Caramel, which is made by cooking sugar until it melts, it is transformed into a glaze, making even the simplest cakes irresistibly tantalising, delighting not only customers’ palate but their eyes, too. www.fabbri1905.com

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EASTER

The traditional chocolate eggs may seem similar every year, but if you take a deeper look, you will discover many new and interesting details from the technical and artistical points of view

CHOCOLATE EASTER EGGS

GRAZIANO GIOVANNINI from Montecatini Terme, near Pistoia, paints colourful chocolate eggs using Italian traditional decoration techniques. He draws fret patterns by hands using decorating tips and cones, then he embellishes his works with tridimensional motives, such as chocolate or sugar roses and butterflies. These eggs are inspired to fairy tales and on their tops there are small written plates with the classical introduction to the world of magic, “Once upon a time...”, and the names of the stories themselves: “The Ugly Duckling” by Hans Christian Andersen; “The Town Mouse and the Country Mouse” by Aesop; “Three Little Pigs” and the title of a Russian folk tale. Photos Bononi

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EASTER Italian breakfast is the theme developed by ANDREA SLITTI from Monsummano Terme, near Pistoia, for his Easter range. He transforms chocolate eggs into the copies of kitchen utensils and food, such as biscuits, toasts with jam, etc., while the egg with heart decorations is intended as a lovers’ gift. Photos Bononi

From left, Palmira and Andrea, with Lara and Daniele Slitti.

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A building in Emerald City, in the Land of Oz.

Tin Man, one of Dorothy’s fellow travellers.

Scarecrow, another fellow traveller.

Fantasy genre, horror fiction and exotic imagery have always been sources of inspiration for the chocolatier ANTONIO LE ROSE. He loves to recreate dreamlands and imaginary places and characters using chocolate, always paying attention to practical details through his technical ability and skills. These chocolate eggs refer to the celebrated fantasy musical movie “The Wizard of Oz”, by Victor Fleming, 1939, illustrating the adventures of a young girl, Dorothy, in a marvellous and dangerous magic land. Photos Pace

Le Rose working in his lab.

Le Rose took inspiration form the visual art of native Australians for the decoration of these Easter eggs.

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EASTER

12

STEFANO LAGHI from Faenza uses dark, milk and white chocolate, marzipan and food colours. The enchanted chocolate castle consists of two halves and a base obtained with silicone moulds. The small towers and the other details are applied afterwards. The green cactus is obtained pouring white chocolate into egg moulds and making it crystallize. The handmade marzipan pigs and bears are included in the range of Valentine characters. The couples are placed on a decorated chocolate bed, an old style car and a motorcycle obtained with specific moulds.

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It’s all here. For more than sixty years, we at Icam have been passionate about chocolate making. And it’s right here, in every little drop. We accept only the finest quality raw materials. We work in the field with our farming partners all over the world, carefully collaborating to control quality cocoa harvesting, fermenting and drying for optimum flavor. At home in northern Italy, we use the most advanced technologies on the planet to produce ultra-pure high quality cocoa. All this makes Icam’s chocolate a modern artisan product suitable for use by the most demanding professionals— in patisseries, ice cream shops and fine restaurants. We hope Icam Linea Professionale quality inspires your finest creations. And our team is ready to help you realize your grandest chocolate dreams. It’s all here.

I C A M L I N E A P R O F E S S I O N A L E . Y O U R I N S P I R AT I O N , O U R PA S S I O N. w w w.ic ampr ofe s sionale.it


NEWS

PROCESSING MACHINES FOR CHOCOLATE

Established in 1965 by Renato Selmi, Selmi started its activity as hazelnut paste processing company and only afterwards focused on chocolate processing, thus becoming a specialist in this field. In 1987, when Paolo Selmi joined his father in the manufacturing of tempering and covering machines, a new family run company arose, which focuses now on the continuous improvement of the machines and their efficiency. They boasts unique features, such as the constant striving for technological improvements combined with the structural simplicity of its machines, thus guaranteeing fewer maintenance sessions and excellent service, which includes the machines testing at the customer’s plant. Conceiving and design, manufacturing and sale, direct shipment and assistance are therefore essential steps of the production procedure and strong points of success. For these reasons the company is currently a leader in the national scenario of the craftsmanlike chocolate processing machine manufacturing. The main features of the automatic truffle’s operating are: coating belt in two sections, chocolate dripping aided by mechanical vibration, and dual veil chocolate coating hopper. The speed of the coating belt is regulated by an inverter, and the automatic truffled product extraction system has adjustable vibration speed. This type of equipment allows a single person to truffle from 25 to 30 k g/h of product. The hourly production is 30 kg/h and power consumption 220 V Single phase. 0.6 kW. The dimension are W 580 mm, D 940 mm with tray carrier (670 mm without tray carrier), H 1050 mm. www.selmi-group.it

QUALITY IN A NEW FORMAT

Since 1946, Icam has been a leading producer of top-of-therange Italian chocolate, thanks to its skills throughout every stage of cocoa processing and an independent production process developed over 60 years of experience. Every single stage is closely monitored by experts: from the search for cocoa plantations to the selection of the finest raw materials; from the development of highly specialised know-how to the enhancement of cutting-edge technologies. Its technological autonomy and the checks carried out right along the production chain enable the company to make semiprocessed cocoa products (paste, butter and powder) for use in the confectionery industry and, with the Linea Professionale brand, for operators in the pastry, gelato and restaurant sectors. All products are versatile and can be used immediately, making it possible to combine the necessary processing techniques with the high standard of quality required to enhance those operators’ professional skills. The wide range of single-origin cru, milk, dark and white chocolate is available in the practical drop format, which makes it easier to melt and more flexible to work with. The resealable packs, designed to maintain the products’ organoleptical characteristics unaltered, are sold in 1 and 4 kg sizes, thus guaranteeing a flexible, modular production, in line with the specific requirements of the professional market. www.icamcioccolato.it - www.icamprofessionale.it

ALWAYS AT THE TOP Bravo Trittico® Executive still remains the top-of-the-range of the Bravo Trittico® family and one of the best-selling machine in the pastry and gelato area. It all began in 1974 when Genesio Bravo, current president of the company, had a brilliant idea. He thought it would be great to have a single machine that was capable of pasteurising and freezing gelato at the same time. Trittico® is now the original multi-functional machine for pastry shops and gelato laboratories that makes it possible to pasteurise and freeze each gelato flavour in an independent and safe way, using only one machine. This means a great time and space sparing, but also a greater product quality. The Trittico® exclusive and advanced technology has no equals in the market, as Trittico® was and it is still protected by many international patents pending. With Trittico® Executive it is easy to make pastries and chocolate products, macarons, savoury food and gelato as well. Thanks to it, it is possible to obtain semifreddos, mousses and all other bases without risking errors or waste. An advanced software keeps the recipe safe and allows to create lots of new ideas, easily and immediately. You need simply to select the programme from the 39 available ones, and Trittico® will take care of the rest. Bravo headquarters are in Montecchio Maggiore, near Vicenza, in the north-eastern part of Italy, and it operates in more than 60 countries in the world. The company has also its direct sales offices in France, Spain, Germany and Singapore. www.bravo.it - www.tritticoclub.com

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at last...

...I

red

ve o c s di

a new

wa � C I G “MA

Ital Proget, offers a new way to show products thanks to Magic showcase line; the innovative idea is represented above all by the original way of showing drinks. Choosing a drink has never been so easy as it is with Magic Bar.

via Ponte di Ferro, 85 I - 06084 Bettona (PG) tel. +39 075 9869071 - 987038 Fax +39 075 987016 www.italproget.it info@italproget.it

y

to show

my

pro

du

Magic line includes gelato, confectionery, cold and hot gastronomy showcases, which can be canalized. Beyond the perfect visibility of products, Magic showcases were designed with a practical glass top for consumption.

cts

!


PASTRY

CAPRI SWEET Mozzarella mousse milk buffalo mozzarella (about 250 g) cream gelatine sheets granulated sugar

Skin of milk g no. g no. g

500 1 150 2 50

Chop up the mozzarella with the milk, cover and let it stand for about one hour. Then pass the lot through a chinois strainer. Bring the cream to 70°C and dissolve in it the sugar and gelatine, previously softened. Then add this to the infusion of mozzarella and pour the mixture in a siphon. Let it stand in the refrigerator for about four hours.

Candied dwarf tomatoes dwarf tomatoes butter millefiori honey ginger, Tahiti vanilla, fresh mint, lemon grass

milk

Garnish vanilla oil, carbon sugar, granulated sugar, Maldon salt, lemon basil, fennel Dressage

Garnish the milk skin with the mozzarella mousse, trying to give it a rounded shape that looks like a small mozzarella; arrange two or three tomatoes with the juice from the cooking, lightly grate some mozzarella with granulated sugar, and then add some Maldon salt crystals. Place some carbon sugar in a melon-pear and, to season, make an infusion of olive oil and vanilla. Decorate with small leaves of lemon basil and some fennel.

Peel the dwarf tomatoes, fry them slightly in a buttered pan, add a spoonful of millefiori honey, a vanilla pod open in half and some slices of fresh ginger. Repeatedly glaze the tomatoes and finish cooking in a 60°C oven for about 2-3 hours. Once removed from the oven add a julienne of fresh mint. Store.

16

a.r.

Heat the milk in a large pan until a skin on the surface is formed. Delicately remove this with your fingers without breaking it, place it on some transparent film and store.

2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 16

Stefano Baiocco Grand Hotel Villa Feltrinelli – Gargnano, Brescia www.villafeltrinelli.com Photos Francesca Brambilla – Serena Serrani


characteristics:

the force of a great technology,

the power of a new design.

via Ponte di Ferro, 85 I - 06084 Bettona (PG) tel. +39 075 9869071 - 987038 Fax +39 075 987016 www.italproget.it info@italproget.it


PASTRY

SWEET SENSATIONS OF SICILY Tirrimulluri An ancient sweet, typical of the town of Randazzo. After the grape harvest, people would go and pick the small bunches of grapes that had been left on the vines. This would then be taken home and crushed. Then, without giving the must a chance to ferment, it was boiled with the ashes of the vine wood, called sciarmenti, which even today is burnt to ash. This is then passed through a sieve until you get a powder that is added to the must and boiled. After the first boiling, it is removed from the heat and allowed to cool. Subsequently, it is filtered through a cloth in order to eliminate any ash residues. This cooked wine is ideal for making fruit pickle. For the tirrimulluri on the other hand, the must, after the first boiling is then boiled again until reduced to a third of the original quantity. At this point, the must has turned into a very spicy wine caramel. This is the hallmark of the tirrimulluri, which together with other local products such as almonds, walnuts, dried figs, hazelnuts, and wheat flour, give this sweet its unique flavour. It is very popular among older generations, who would prepare them as early as November in order to eat them on Christmas Eve with a hot glass of cooked wine in which they would dunk the tirrimulluri. What a treat in those days! So we can say they were the typical sweets of winters past. Today they are considered delicacies no longer

18

found in bakeries, not because they are difficult to make, but because finding freshly drawn must from a vat and the right ash (i.e. clean and dry) is everything but easy.

cooked wine semolina wheat flour 00 flour toasted almonds toasted hazelnuts dried figs

kg g g g g g

1 500 100 150 150 100

After carrying out the boiling operations on the must mentioned above, heat again and sprinkle in the flours, stirring continuously so lumps do not form; add the coarsely chopped dried fruit and figs and mix together. Place on a table and make a stick. Cut this into 50-70 g pieces and make biscuits with a light “s” shape, rolling it out on some caster sugar to make the sweet slightly crispy on the surface. Bake at 200°C for 12 minutes.

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Salvatore Caggegi


Cooked wine mostarda must (with relatively high sugar content) starch cinnamon stick (optional)

l g

10 400

Boil the must to reduce it by half; take about one litre of reduced must and cool and dissolve the starch. Pour again in the must and bring to the boil, stirring continuosly. When it tickens, place in moulds and cool. Dry in the sun. Angelo Motta

This book is a journey through time and sweet tradition in search of the most authentic Sicilian identity. The author Salvatore Farina describes the most significant stages of the island’s millenial history using sweets as living icons, giving them voice and a new life. Glossy photographs, taken by the author himself, illustrate evocative descriptions of preparations, and the invitation to taste is more than explicit and goes far beyond the pleasures of the palate. The author encourages the reader to seek out in person the artistic and landscape attractions of Sicily and its confectioners, faithful interpreters of tradition. But more than that, he also invites to meet those who, originally from Sicily, expatriated for personal ambition in search of work, and who were successful in distant lands because of their offering of Sicilian sweet specialities. Biagio Settepani – www.pasticceriabruno.com – is a case in point, whose New York story Farina tells, illustrated by the photographer Giancarlo Bononi. The book is published by Edizioni Lussografica, Caltanissetta, and is available in Italian and English, $ 40,00.

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GELATO

BEYOND TRADITIONAL GELATO In the past issues of “Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition” we published many different gelato recipes, introducing also the “savoury side” and the plated dessert version. Their future potential is clear as proven in these pages and as you can find out in www.gelatointavola.it

GAZPACHO OF RED FRUIT WITH BASIL SORBET AND GINGER BREAD STICKS Work the butter with the sugar. Add in the egg whites and the flour, and lastly the ginger powder. On Silpat, make bread sticks and bake at 180°C for six minutes, valve open.

Assembly

In a hollow dish place the gazpacho; in the centre place a small ball of sorbet, some raspberries, redcurrants and chopped strawberries. Above the sorbet place two breadsticks and a sugar decoration. Christian and Manuel Costardi Da Cinzia – Albergo Ristorante Risotteria – Vercelli www.hotel-cinzia.com

Gazpacho strawberries raspberries redcurrant sugar glucose lemon juice

g g g g g g

500 300 100 150 50 20

Blend all the ingredients and pass through a chinoise to eliminate the seeds of the red fruit.

Basil sorbet water sugar glucose basil nitrogen

l g g g

1 600 100 800 a.r.

Bring the water with the sugar and glucose to 121°C. Having reached that temperature, remove from the heat and add the basil; infuse for one hour. Filter the syrup and thicken with the liquid nitrogen.

Ginger bread sticks butter icing sugar egg whites flour freeze-dried ginger powder

20

g g g g g

100 100 100 100 100

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SMALL BRONTE PISTACHIO CAKE WITH SAUCE AND SAFFRON PISTIL GELATO Serves 6 finely chopped pistachio 00 flour caster sugar whole eggs pistachio paste salt bicarbonate

g 100 g 100 g 80 no. 2 g 20 a.r. g 3

Place all ingredients in an electric mixer and mix for about 15 minutes. Butter and sugar some small moulds, pour in the mixture and bake at 160°C for about 15 minutes.

Ricotta sauce sheep's milk ricotta fresh whole milk caster sugar acacia honey saffron pistils salt

Ricotta gelato sheep's milk ricotta fresh cream fresh milk caster sugar spoon of acacia honey saffron pistils salt

g 200 g 40 g 40 g 90 no. 1 g 0.05 a.r.

Place over the heat at 70°C for 15 minutes, pass through the thermo-mix for another 5 minutes, and when cold move to the gelato machine. Assemble the sweet by serving the cake in a soup plate, with sauce for the base and the gelato above the hot cake.

g 100 g 40 g 20 g 10 g 0.02 a.r.

Pietro D'Agostino Ristorante La Capinera – Taormina, Catania www.ristorantelacapinera.com

Place the lot over the heat at 70°C for 5 minutes, blend with an immersion blender and serve.

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NEWS

A NEW MEMBER OF RELAIS DESSERTS ITALIAN EXHIBITIONS AND EVENTS

Giovanni Pina, www.giovannipina.it, the president of Accademia Maestri Pasticceri Italiani and well known pastry chef based in Trescore Balneario, near Bergamo, has become a member of Relais Desserts International. He follows Iginio Massari, Luca Mannori and Luigi Biasetto, the other Italian members of the prestigious association. The admission ceremony took place in the French pastry school of Yssingeaux after Pina’s entrance examination, in the presence of all members with president Frédéric Cassel. www.relais-desserts.net

Giovanni Pina’s pièce, which he presented at Relais Desserts entrance examination. Photos ©Laurent Fau

Well-known chefs and pastry chefs from all over the world will meet on the occasion of Identità Golose-Congresso Italiano Cucina d’Autore (Italian congress of fine gastronomy) from 31st January to 2nd February in Milan. The leitmotif will be the Luxury of Simplicity. Identità London, the English version of the congress, is scheduled next June, 7th and 8th. www.identitagolose.it Cibus 2010, the exhibition for the food industry and the international food market, will take place in Parma from 10th to 13th May. www.fiereparma.it A few days later always in May from 22nd to 26th, Verona will host Siab, the international exhibition dedicated to technologies, raw material and semifinished producs for bread, pastry, pizza and pasta. www.siabweb.com

For registered trade visitors only

THE STARTING EVENT FOR THE SECTOR

6 - 10 Feb. 2010 New Stuttgart Trade Fair Centre

“Delicious! New at the start of the ice-cream season.”

GELATISSIMO The special trade fair for the manufacture of hand-made icecream, which takes place right at the start of the ice-cream season, therefore providing you with the ideal platform for obtaining all the necessary information. On ingredients and additives, work and technical equipment, facilities and furnishings, or products and services for the production, sale and presentation of ice-cream. Treat yourself to a visit to GELATISSIMO 2010. Make sure you note the dates now and register online. www.gelatissimo.de


DRINKS

FRAGRANT MIX

The aromas of the renowned almond liqueur and of the apple distillate of Normandy express themselves in this cocktail, in which gelato and coffee come together

Malpaso cream gelato expresso coffee Disaronno Calvados

g cl cl cl

30 3 1 4

In the blender prepare with a little crushed ice and serve in a large sundae cup; decorate at will. Roberto Bianchi Thanks go to Rinaldo Merlone, director of the institute 'A. Prever' of Pinerolo, Alberto Ferrero and Alexandra Raluca Gadalean Photo Remo Caffaro

Disaronno is the Amaretto liqueur produced in the historical establishment of Ilva Saronno and made from almonds infused in alcohol. Often it is homemade and its origins date to 1500. Calvados is made from the distillation of apple cider (which in turn is obtained from the fermented juice of the fruits), aged for at least two years in oak barrels. Although it does not appear in codified international cocktails, it is ideal for mixed drinks because it gives character to liqueurs and fruit juices. It is also the name of the French region of lower Normandy where it is produced.

The recipe of Malpaso and many others are included in this book, “From aperitive to desserts” (published in Italian by Chiriotti Editori). Cocktails are intended not only as fancy drinks, but also as matches for appetizers and confectionery products, “drinkable” gelatos and as desserts themselves. Serving suggestions, curiosities and historical hints complete this cocktail recipe collection. The authors, Roberto Bianchi and Edoardo Baviello, teach at the professional institute “A. Prever” in Pinerolo, near Torino. The book, 112 pages, is sold at € 30,00 and can be ordered on www.pasticceriainternazionale.it/shop or by email info@pasticceriainternazionale.it

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CUISINE

A NATURAL PLAYER A celebration of nature and its food: Joia is a vegetarian restaurant in the centre of Milan, awarded a Michelin star in 1996, and run by chef-patron Pietro Leemann Many years have passed since vegetarian cooking was thought of as tasteless, unvaried, and even boring. Considered to be second-class cooking, a niche phenomenon that put animal lovers against meat eaters, it freed itself of its unjustly attributed role to take on a new lease of life. Because vegetarian today not only means eating well but also healthily and carefully. Especially if Pietro Leeman is in the kitchen, star-winning chef of the Joia restaurant, Milan, and spokesman for natural haute cuisine. In other words cooking made using greens, cereals, fruits, fats, and dairy products, but no meat or fish. Quality biological and biodynamic raw materials, colours, forms, and aromas are used to their full potential. The key player is nature, taken as a point of reference and a starting point in the search for health and well being. His dishes, fully-fledged works of art, are an ode to life and enjoyment. For this Swiss cook, food brings people together and breaks down cultural barriers. It is a precious gift, and cooking a Il fascino della Sacher (the Sacher’s Glamour).

26

great responsibility. Intense spirituality, intellectual inquisitiveness and sharp sensitivity distinguish this chef, whom many call a philosopher. Let us begin with the concept of vegetarian cooking. I am vegetarian out of ethical and moral conviction. It is a choice dictated by an awareness of more healthy eating habits that gives me, with my cooking, pleasure and wellbeing. Natural haute cuisine. What does this mean? It means being close to nature, both in terms of ingredients used and methods adopted for the preparation of dishes. These are simple processes that do not denaturalise the ingredient, rather they accompany and emphasise it. Natural also refers to ideas in which there is a stylisation of nature that underlines its importance. So is nature a point of reference and a starting point for your work? We are a part of nature and eating natural

food means coming as close as possible to a condition of well-being. The menus are balanced and give us natural tastes. The very basis of taste must be natural, never manipulated or altered by chemical products. A vegetarian dish provides more harmonious pleasure because it is in tune with nature: we are not what we eat, but it is through what we eat that we are transformed. What do you mean when you say "elaborate cooking is linked to material, cultural and spiritual wealth"? The three riches can be presented together or alone, and in my dishes I try to represent them all with the aim of giving well-being to the body, mind and spirit. For a dish to be good and natural it must possess these three elements and offer a key of interpretation that meets the expectations of all. We can decide to eat for pleasure or we can experience food as a journey of awareness in the knowledge that through our choices we can determine our mental and physical wellbeing. The act of eating can turn into pure pleasure for those seeking material satisfaction, and so a good dish will suffice; it can become an intellectual experience for those who use the restaurant as a breeding ground of emotions, or else it can be raised to a spiritual level and offer happiness. Some of my dishes – Perseveranza, Virtù, Serendipity – are also a vocal expression of a spiritual idea, which calls for closer examination. What do you mean by that? "Perseveranza" is my way of seeing this value. The colour that best defines it is green (green pasta, spinach and its stock)

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with red spots (tomato petals) that give it power, and some white spots (the almond sauce) for candour. The dish comprises four ravioli, each one different, made without eggs but with wheat gluten, which has the same characteristics, and no dairy products. This choice of ingredients makes the recipe light and digestible, and is perfectly suited to the concept of well-being in the broad sense of the term. Let's talk about how your cooking is representative of well-being. My dishes are clean, simple and represent a specific group of elements that makes choices easy. A balanced diet contains all ingredients. But today there are some ingredients like eggs, fat, wheat, and dairy products that are eaten frequently and in large quantities. The result is a high number of allergies and intolerance to certain foods. Starting from here I have various tricks up my sleeve for preparing dishes that are just as tasty yet do not contain these elements. For instance, instead of thickening mayonnaise with normal flour I do it using corn or rice flour. Furthermore, it is easier to stay in good health if food is assimilated slowly by our organism. Glucids that enter our organism quickly raise the level of insulin in the blood, causing negative effects. For this reason, instead of sugar I use honey, brown sugar, fructose and so on. It is a great responsibility for a chef, isn't it? Absolutely. A good cook is one who knows how to give a moment of pleasure with his

work, that feeling of gratification that enriches the mind and the spirit. The act of cooking is important, as is the act of eating: there is a big difference between food prepared with love and care and food prepared for the sake of it. What are the underlying principles of your cooking? Non violence before anything else: the food I serve is never the fruit of a violent act; were it so it would determine its character. With my food I seek to celebrate life and enjoyment: death, in the kitchen, is associated to the animal kingdom. Secondly, I use products that respect nature: the selection of ingredients, which must be of the highest quality, is carefully made. Finally my method is to preserve the ingredient, without ever denaturalising it. This means maintaining as much of its energy as possible, which can be achieved with rapid, simple and immediate cooking processes. But also the composition of the menu has to respect a balance between raw (rich in vitamins) and cooked (more easily absorbed by our organism. How is a dish created? I try to represent my ideas in an artistic and

expressive manner, and I start by using ingredients I am familiar with. Later on I take a look at what tradition has to offer. Even the most innovative dishes are in some way associated to our roots. The dialogue with the client only takes place thanks to the use of symbols which are a part of the same culture and tradition. Otherwise there is a risk of speaking different languages and not understanding each other. What makes a dish excellent? First of all the ingredients, followed by the balance obtained from the perfect gauging of flavours. It must be linked to nature and also to our roots. When I make a dish I observe tradition and take note. What is the role of the dessert in your cooking? It has an important place in my heart: I became a chef thanks to a Russian Charlotte. It was the year 1976 and the great cook and gastronome Angelo Conti Rossi, a dear friend of the family, invited to dinner, turned up with a Bavarian vanilla cream crowned with Savoy biscuits, obviously made by him. I was fifteen at the time and I will never for-

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CUISINE

Perseveranza green pasta softened haricot beans carrots blood orange coppered tomatoes early spinach spinach purée vegetable stock rice flour almond milk nutmeg corn flour sugar extra-virgin olive oil rosemary salt

g g g no. n. g g g g g g g g g g

200 50 100 1½ 2 50 50 100 5 50 1 2.5 2.5 20 5 a.r.

28

Grate the orange rind and cook the sugar with the petit boulé. Soak it with the juice of all the oranges and reduce it to a syrup. Cut the peeled carrots into thin slices and sweat them for half an hour with a little oil and covered saucepan. Blend and flavour with the reduced orange juice. Cook the beans, blend them and pass them through a sieve. Flavour them with the orange rind and chopped rosemary. Roll the pastry out to very thin and prepare 4 cm diameter ravioli, filling half with the carrots and the other with the beans. Boil the stock and thicken with the rice flour; add the spinach purée and blend. Boil the almond milk with the nutmeg and thicken with corn flour. Peel the tomatoes, cut them into quarters, remove the seeds and put them to dry in a 75°C oven for 2 hours. Cook the ravioli for one minute in salted boiling water, then place them in the spinach stock with the leaves of the early spinach; season with extravirgin olive oil and cook for another minute.

Assembly

Green pasta flour wheat gluten dry spinach purée

Blend the ingredients together, knead and allow to stand for half an hour. Stretch out the pasta and cut to the desired shape.

g g g

50 15 12

Place the ravioli in the dishes with little stock and the spinach leaves. Garnish with tomato petals and add dashes of almond sauce.

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Pietro Leemann Joia Restaurant – Milano www.joia.it


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CUISINE

Contatto e Consenso (Contact and Consent).

get that evening and that dessert: the perfume of the fragrant biscuits, the inebriating aroma of the vanilla, and the full-bodied carefully balanced taste. It was a sudden inspiration that marked my life. During a meal, the moment of the dessert represents the closure; it is the signature of the chef. Moreover, I am extremely greedy. What makes a dessert special? The balance between delicacy and lightness. Is it possible to marry the concept of well-being with dessert? There are many ingredients and many ways of putting them together. You need to experiment, learn to use little known or underused ingredients and alternate them with more traditional ones. Soya milk, almond milk, corn flour, fructose, honey, agar agar, Mycryo (powder cocoa butter used as a thickener) are just some of the ingredients I use. In "Two steps forward and one back", the cherry tart is served with a cream of quark (fresh cheese, soft and slightly acid) mixed with orange rind and a vanilla pod. On the mascarpone obtained, decidedly lighter, a layer of pastry is applied that is then broken by the waiter at the moment of serving. The vanilla sauce and the mango gelato ball complete the dessert and emphasise the contrast between the hot of the tart and the cold of the ice cream. But well-being, understood as the union between body and mind, is achieved also through other factors.

Which ones? In "Memory", which represents the journey of our childhood, new flavours and sensations experienced by children emerge: cookies with cream of milk, gianduiotto, condensed milk with biscuits, egg yolk mixed with sugar, and the breakfast biscuit. "At last there's rain" is the fresh blend of strawberries, watermelon and rhubarb. The pink base, made using rhubarb juice, receives the droplets of mint that represent rain. These are unforgettable memories linked to unique experiences or pleasant sensations given to us by nature or by the moment. "Yellow pear" originated as a sort of game of provocation: I used the kuchinaci, a berry used in Japan to colour chestnuts, giving the fruit an almost electric yellow colour that contrasts with the red of the raspberry and the green of the mint. And then there is "The law of chance" in which are poured like a cascade, in front of the guests, the solid elements (coffee beans, orange rind, pine kernels, apples, pineapple, kiwi, and pistachio) followed by the coconut sauce and as a finishing touch the mint leaves. A journey of flavours that continually change because with every spoonful there are different combinations. "The apparent egg and its shell" is perhaps your most representative dish: why? It is the symbol of birth, of life, it is a per-

fect shape. I offer it as an egg non egg that maintains its shape yet becomes even more important because it is not the ingredient you are expecting. Every season has its main player: pepper in summer, broccoli in autumn, Jerusalem artichoke in winter, a transparent gelatin with the first greens in spring. As for egg, I hide it in a hot cube that contains within it a soft egg yolk. Moreover, in 1996 it became the motor of Joia, marking an important moment. Is it the basic essentials that determine the quality of the product or is it the personality of the chef that makes the difference? The starting point and key player is the ingredient, the cook is a good performer. Raw materials and technique: which one prevails? You need good raw materials combined with good technique. What is the sweet ingredient you prefer to work with? Vanilla and all its derivatives. And the savoury ingredient? Orange and sweet Hokkaido pumpkin in Autumn, which I combine with ginger. What should never be missing in your kitchen? The passion of chefs. Your dishes are artistic compositions. Would it be right to call you an architect in the kitchen? I like to give my dishes aesthetic appeal, challenging, in a certain sense, the laws of nature, as is the case with the square eggs. No matter how natural it is, cooking will always be a human creation. Art, then, is a form of expression that seeks to come closer to the divine. Care over the presentation of a dish goes hand in hand with care over its preparation: the marriage is capable of raising food onto the spiritual plane. How do you see gastronomy ten years from now? The duality that currently exists in evolutionary cooking will be heightened, careful and balanced on a level footing with cultural development on the one hand, and degenerative and involutional food, i.e. industrial fast-food, on the other. What are your projects for the future? I have open Joia Kitchen Bistrot, always in Milano, a more informal proposal for young people and anyone who wants to come closer to vegetarian cooking. Monica Onnis Photos by Francesca Brambilla and Serena Serrani taken from the book "Joia I nuovi confini della cucina vegetariana" Giunti Editore www.giunti.it

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We will attend:

SIGEP in Rimini 23 - 27 January 2010 Hall. B3 - Stand 120 PROSWEETS in Colonia From 31/01 to 03/02/2010 Hall 10.1- Stand G 031 The 15° GULF FOOD - Dubai Hotel and Equipment Exhibition e Salone Culinario 21 - 24 February 2010

SELMI SRL Via Statale,151 - 12069 Santa Vittoria d’Alba (CN) Tel. +39.0172.479273/75 (r.a.) - Fax +39.0172.477814 www.selmi-group.it - info@selmi-group.it


RECIPES

RECIPES FROM THE IFSE MINT-SCENTED EGGPLANT FLAN WITH FONDUE AND CASTELMAGNO MOUSSE For the fondue Castelmagno cheese cream

Serves 4

For the flan purple eggplant mint sprigs salt white pepper shallot garlic extra virgin olive oil and white wine vinegar eggs Grana Padano cheese milk honey

g no

500 4 to taste to taste g 20 no 1

g g g g

to taste 80 40 120 10

g g

400 200

Place the ingredients in a bain-marie and let the cheese melt completely. At this point emulsify with a hand-blender to eliminate any possible lumps and adjust with salt if necessary. For the mousse, pour part of the fondue into a syphon and keep it warm.

For the wafer Grana Padano eggplant skin

g g

200 40

Arrange the grated Grana Padano and the finely julienned eggplant skin on a piece of parchment and bake in a microwave oven, set at the maximum power, for about 25 seconds.

Peel the eggplants and set part of their skin aside, dice one half, blanch in salted water with a drizzle of white wine vinegar. Let cool down and marinate in extra virgin olive oil, chopped mint and garlic. Bake the other half of the eggplants at 180°C for about one hour, covered with a tin foil. In a pan, sauté the julienned shallot in extra virgin olive oil, add the honey and caramelize for a few seconds, add the baked eggplant, coarsely cut, and sauté briefly. Season with salt and pepper, then blend with the eggs, the Grana Padano and the milk. Add the diced and squeezed eggplants and fill single-portion and buttered moulds, arranged in a bain-marie in a baking dish. Bake at 160 C° for about 20 minutes.

CASTELMAGNO

is a traditional semi-hard, half-fat cheese produced with whole cows milk in Piedmont region, in north-western Italy. The milk is obtained from cattle of the Piedmontese breed, fed on fresh forage or hay from mixed meadows or pasture in the area of Valle Grana, in the province of Cuneo. Castelmagno is eaten on its own or along with polenta, rice, beef meat, vegetables, etc. It is also used in more complex recipes and can be served with acacia honey.

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RECIPES

PECORINO CHEESE GELATO WITH PEARS GLAZED IN CHESTNUT HONEY Serves 4

about three minutes, strain well and let cool down. Pour into a gelato machine and work till you reach the consistency you need.

For the gelato milk cream Pecorino di Fossa cheese ginger roots egg yolks salt

g g g

For the pears

150 150 70 to taste 2 to taste

no

pears chestnut honey

no

4 to taste

Cut the pears into very thin slices and warm up in a pan with honey for a few minutes. Let cool down.

In a sauce-pan, warm 70 g of milk and the cream up to 60°C, incorporate the remaining half of the milk and the Pecorino, previously softened for about an hour in the same milk with the ginger. Add the beaten yolks and, if necessary, season with salt. Heat up to 75°C for

IFSE - Italian Food Style Education Piobesi Torinese, Torino Photos by Marco Beltramo

PECORINO DI FOSSA

is a loafshaped sheep’s milk cheese produced in central Italy, in Emilia Romagna and Marche, in the hills surrounding Sogliano al Rubicone. It is usually grated over pasta, or eaten with honey, fruit and cured meats. Fosse are subterranean natural holes used for cheese ripening, which are prepared burning straw inside them to reduce the humidity, and then lined with more straw. Cheeses are wrapped in protective cloth sacks and laid on wooden circles supported by reeds, that keep them a specific height from the straw lining. For three months they enjoy constant temperature and humidity level, allowing to develop a unique flavor.

Italian Food Style Education IFSE (Italian Food Style Education) is an association based in Piobesi Torinese, near Torino, founded to spread Italian cuisine philosophy and focusing on health aspects and gastronomic tradition. Last year successful classes were attended by many Italian and foreign students coming from countries such as Korea, Brasil, Usa. 2010 calendar includes Mediterranean cuisine classes and meetings with doctors and experts, specialization lessons for professionals and also meetings for primary and secondary school students. Ifse-FoodFly is the last initiative launched by director Raffaele Trovato: the possibility of tasting fine food and wines flying by helicopter over production areas, including visits to producers and restaurants. www.ifse.it www.ifse-world.com www.foodfashion.it

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NEWS

DULCIS IN NAPLES The members of the Accademia Maestri Pasticceri Italiani chose Naples for their last yearly public meeting, www.ampiweb.it. They met in November at The National Archaeological Museum of Naples, where they showed and offered to the public their wonderful sweets: everyone had to make hazelnut and chestnut cakes, and small pastry made with Annurca apples and Costiera Amalfitana lemons. Gino Fabbri, www.ginofabbri.com, vice president of the association, won the prize as the pastry chef of the year; Biagio Settepani from New York City and Gary Rulli from San Francisco are the honorary members. Their next technical meeting is planned from 7 to 10 March 2010, in Brescia at Cast Alimenti, www.castalimenti.it

Ampi vice president Gino Fabbri is awarded the prize as Pastry Chef of the Year.

DÉCO RELIEF’S NEW WEBSITE Following the evolution of markets and the use of new technologies, Déco Relief updated his website to make it more practical and easier for everyone willing to make orders and discover new trends in chocolate and sugarcraft. Through www.deco-relief.fr you can obtain a lot of information about Events, New products, the Company, Advices about chocolate and sugar, and Offers. Every month a “TOP Affaire” appears, permitting to find better discounts. Déco Relief has started the production of natural food colourings and two ranges of hydrosoluble and liposoluble food colourings are available and included in the new 2010 catalogue. Through its wide range of products, the company can meet the requests ot international markets (i.e. labels in 6 languages, the respect of national regulations, etc.) For 30 years Déco Relief has been recognized as a leading company in Europe, Middle East and America. The export area is more and more important thanks to its multiculturalism (11 languages spoken) and the quality in services, meeting requests in 24 hours. export@deco-relief.fr - export.dpt@deco-relief.fr

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From left, Gary Rulli from San Francisco, his wife Jeannie, and Biagio Settepani from New York. Both the Italo-American pastry chefs have been admitted to the association as honorary members.


VISUAL MERCHANDISING

RED AS LOVE Red is the right colour to feast Valentine Day, appearing as a recurring chromatic motive in these packagings made by Chiara Rosino and Lorena Signori (lorenasignori@tiscali.it). The two artisans are specialized in the art of glasswork and woodwork and their frameworks, rings, mini trays, butterflies, pendants... can be easily matched to confectionery products (such as chocolates, bonbons, petits fours...) wrapped in white written papers, resulting in original and elegant handmade lover gifts. Photos Caffaro

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NEWS

VALUE ADDED PASTEURIZED PRODUCTS Liasa-Ken is Spanish company located in Guadalajara which is specialized in manufacturing whipping creams and dairy blend toppings for confectionery, bakery and foodservice. Liasa started its activity in 1967 with dairy products and launched a new concept: a whipping vegetable cream which was a blend of fresh cream and vegetable oil. In the Seventies the company’s first expansion took place, increasing its markets share and introducing renewed manufacturing processes and packaging lines, while in the Eighties the modern concept of Ski brand was launched and the range of products enlarged: new whipping creams and toppings were developed as well as a line of traditional desserts. In the Nineties, the new factory located in Guadalajara was built and equipped with state-of-the art technology: ESL (Extended Shelf Life), the manufacturing of pasteurized products provided with a longer expiring date, automated production and packing lines, purifying and waste control facilities, HACCP System (Hazard Analysis Critical Control Points), test laboratories for physics, chemist and bacteriological analyses. In 2004 Ski started its first international expansion in Europe, and in 2006 an innovative concept was launched: the shelf-life of its dairy portfolio was once more enlarged thanks to the introduction of aseptic packaging. Thanks to the efforts of its R&D sector, Ski has developed a wide assortment of value added pasteurized products, joining the organoleptic and functional advantages of fresh products with a long lasting shelf life of 120 days. Now the OGM free production range includes long lasting pasteurized whipping creams for confectionery obtained through an ultrapasteurisation process, Ken Nata Culinaria cooking creams, Ken Nata Azucarada sweetened creams, Ken dairy blend toppings (made with vegetable fats and cream), and traditional semi-finished desserts. The company also offers tailor-made products especially for industrial specific needs, based on different formulations (higher or lower percentage of vegetable and animal fat, aroma, sugar content...), functional parameters (overrun, performance in freezing and defrosting, stand, stability, etc.). It is also possible to redesign products when necessary, adapting them to the technology used by customers. In 2007 the commercial branch Ken Europe was founded in Rome, strategically located as crossroads between Eastern and Western Europe, as a logistic platform collecting goods coming from Spain, which are distributed in whole Europe. www.skisa.com

THE RAPID COLD IS CHANGED This year Irinox celebrates his successful 20th anniversary. The dedication to innovation and the capability to understand professional needs has driven the company to the 4th generation of machines, the Multifresh® range, focusing on different applications of the chilling/freezing technology to food. The main innovation is the Dynamic mode, that chooses the best appropriate cycle for a single product (i.e. meat, fish, vegetables, pasta, pastry croissants, mousses, etc.). A special program was created for each product in order to obtain the best results for both chilling and freezing, thinking of food and chamber temperature, air-flow circulation, chamber and product humidity, and the specific working process. The main goal is to keep freshness through a new and less aggressive air flow ventilation, which avoids structural damages. Multifresh® features technological innovations such as Multisensor®, a new conicshaped core probe with a multi-point sensor, which helps the extraction from food; Multirack®, a new patented trays holder fit for numerous both gastronom and pastry trays; Sanigen®, a new active-ions sanification system for the sterilization of chamber, tools and products. www.irinox.com

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My world has changed. My new multifunction kitchen helper: Multi Fresh速, Irinox.

Multi Fresh速, a new way of working which goes beyond blast chilling. Specifically designed to meet the requirements of confectioners, Multi Fresh速 offers multiple cycles to better manage their work, ensuring higher profits and improved organisation. Dedicated cycles by product type and controlled thawing and proving cycles make Multi Fresh速 a flexible, irreplaceable kitchen tool! IRINOX. THE FUTURE OF CONFECTIONERY STARTS HERE.

T. +39 0438 5844 - www.irinox.com


PASTICCERIA INTERNAZIONALE World Wide Edition 16/2010  

Magazine of Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition in English language

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