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Supplemento al n. 239, giugno-luglio-agosto 2011 di Pasticceria Internazionale - Sped. in A. P. - D.L. 353/2003 (conv. in L. 27/02/2004 n째 46) art. 1, comma 1, DCB TO - n. 02/2011 - IP - ISSN 0392-4718

PA S T RY B A K E RY G E L AT O C U I S I N E

A FOCUS ON WEDDING CAKES AN INTERVIEW WITH GARY RULLI GELATO FESTIVAL ITALIAN RECIPES AT INTERNATIONAL COMPETITIONS CUISINE TECHNOLOGY AND PRODUCTS NEWS

issue nineteen-2011

CHIRIOTTI EDITORI

10064 PINEROLO - ITALIA - Tel. +390121393127 - Fax +390121794480 www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - info@pasticceriainternazionale.it


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In this issue A focus on wedding cakes And that makes eight The 12th World Pastry Cup Success for the first Juniores Pastry World Cup Gelato festival A busy autumn for Identità Golose A healthy contrast

Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition 10064 Pinerolo (Torino) Viale della Rimembranza 60 tel. +39 0121 393127 - fax +39 0121 794480 info@pasticceriainternazionale.it EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Livia Chiriotti SENIOR EDITOR Emilia Coccolo Chiriotti NEWS EDITORS Cristina Quaglia Milena Novarino Monica Onnis ASSISTANT EDITOR Chiara Comba TRANSLATIONS Alexander Martin MARKETING EDITOR Monica Pagliardi ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Luigi Voglino voglino@chiriottieditori.it ART DIRECTOR Studio Impagina PRINTED BY Tipografia Giuseppini

News Compact quality preservation 190th anniversary of Sangue Morlacco From appetizer to dessert 2nd place for Italy at the European Bakery Cup In Cortemilia, the best hazelnut dessert of Italy Pure vanilla products A new egg, lemon and cinnamon dessert Double Salon du Chocolat in Paris A consultant as a friend The 5th gelato World Cup in Sigep Expos and events in Italy Italian quality conquers the US professional market Trendy fantasy

Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition is happily published in Italy by Chiriotti Editori Copyright © 2011 by Chiriotti Editori All rights reserved No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior written permission from the publishing house

1st Chicago Restaurant Pastry Competition

Supplement of “Pasticceria Internazionale” n. 239 June - July - August 2011

Small Temptations Sigep 2012 highlights confectionery worldwide

ON OUR COVER Natural lemon Alessandro Racca

Cutting boards with antibacterial disposable films Micron ball refiner Ciocofantasy in Cornigliano

THE WEBSITE

www.piwwe.com recipes and interviews subscribe on line brouse through the mag receive newsletters stay in touch with the pastry and cusine world SUBSCRIBE ON-LINE

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PASTRY

A FOCUS ON WEDDING CAKES The recipes and suggestions of some well known Italian pastry chefs

3-D butterflies The butterfly cake has a traditional sponge base filled with vanilla butter cream and chocolate chips. The sponge is lightly soaked, only on the inside, using a liquid aroma, that is high in sugar content, flavoured with orange juice or strawberry. A thin spread of white butter cream enables a complete covering with the sugar mass. The decoration consists of previously prepared icing butterflies.

Royal icing egg whites sifted icing sugar lemon juice

g g g

40 350 12

Whisk the egg whites, add the icing sugar and beat, lightly at first, then once with the sugar incorporated, at maximum speed for one minute. Add the lemon juice and beat for another minute.

PREPARATION

On baking paper, draw the half butterflies (right and left side), then using the sac-Ă poche make a few edges in icing, adding a few drops of water and possibly some colours of your choice. Let it dry for a day. The next day, fill in the spaces on the inside of the dry edge using more liquid icing of a different colour, depending on the request. Let it dry overnight. The next day, attach the wings with the icing and add the antennas; place them in an uneven mould that gives the effect of half-closed wings. The ideal is for the butterflies to be slightly different to each other, both regarding the opening of the wings and their shape, so as to look like different species. The work takes a long time, but the end result is worth it. Gino Fabbri Bologna, Italy www.ginofabbri.com

Very romantic pink butterflies take flight from the white cake, in an appealing three-dimensional display. Gino Fabbri decorates with a mass of sugar and frosting, instead of pulled sugar.

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ALESSANDRO DALMASSO of the Pasticceria Dalmasso of Avigliana, Turin, is widely regarded for his ceremonial cakes, from children's birthdays to weddings. “There is a difference between eating an Italian cake and a sponge – Dalmasso specifies – but the aesthetics require a compromise. So I have it tasted first to make sure the two flavours are understood. I prefer clients to taste first in order to decide and understand what they are ordering, if anything so that they do not complain later. Many who ask for American Pie, after having tasted it, change idea." As for the covering, cream has constraints in terms of exposition times, both regarding delivery and climate; alternatively almond paste can be used. Alessandro adds: "Many customers do not understand and want the cream cake to remain on display for hours: in these cases I recommend a polystyrene cake with covering, decorations and frosting, while the one for eating is stored in the kitchen." www.pasticceriadalmasso.com

The sponge helps with the modelling, giving volume and lightness.

For more shiny and realistic effects (to be stored in the refrigerator), colour the flowers in coloured cocoa-butter frosting instead of the usual food colouring (photo Altaris).

“This year we have a boom in requests for black & white wedding cakes –, says STEFANO ZIZZOLA, owner of two pastry shops respectively in Noale, near Venezia, and Trebaleseghe, near Padova –. Our typical cakes are usually white and ivory with floreal decorations (roses, orchids and callas) and most of them (80%) are based on two combinations of tastes. Bresciana Zizzola includes a crunchy and crumbly cocoa and almond short pastry base, a chocolate and coffee biscuit with a light mascarpone mousse, and it is covered with dark chocolate leaves. Angelina is composed of a crunchy hazelnut short pastry layer, a biscuit with Maraschino and a soft custard with roasted almonds. Otherwise, those who prefer more classical tastes can choose between a sponge cake or a multilayer millefeuille with chocolate cream or a chantilly with fresh raspberry pulp”.

From left Stilè, a double layer sugarpaste cake with chocolate flowers and ribbons. Rosa Vellutata’s drapery, roses and leaves are made of plastic chocolate; the shiny effect is obtained sprinkling some pearly powder on its surface. Poesia is a “readable” cake: the verses chosen by the bride and bridegroom are written with a decorating tip. Calle is decorated with the classical flowers (foto Bononi).

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PASTRY

White, red dot Sponge eggs glucose sugar flour potato starch eggs honey

g g g g g g g

1500 300 1500 1500 560 1000 100

Heat to 40°C eggs, sugar and glucose, whisk and after about 10 minutes drizzle in the honey and egg yolks, then the flour. Bake at 170°C for about 25-30 minutes.

Light cream custard soft whipped cream gelatin

g g g

1000 400 8

Dissolve the gelatin with some of the cream and add the custard and the remaining cream, being careful not to form lumps of jelly. You should not use the cream very cold at this stage, because the cold could make the gelatine gel quickly forming lumps.

IRBBAF

Almond paste to cover cake peeled almonds g 500 sugar g 1000 glucose g 260 fondant sugar g 2200 Pulverize the almonds in a refiner with the addition of a little sugar icing, then mix the lot, close tightly in clingfilm and let stand at room temperature for at least 10 hours.

Tips for filling

Prepare the cake the day before, so as to cut it more easily. Each step of preparation is important to get a precise and neat result. Cut the cake into three pieces and soak with the berry sauce: on the first layer apply just cream and sprinkle with crushed caramelized hazelnuts; on the second, apply a layer of light cream and dried raspberries. Cover with the sponge and apply light cream to the surface; cool well. Remove from the mould; apply a thin layer of white butter cream. Cover with almond paste and decorate with icing, roses and sugar. Combine imagination with functionality. Ceremonial cakes are a serious undertaking and the bride and bridegroom are very demanding: the sweet must surprise yet at the same time be refined. Francesco Elmi Regina di Quadri Pasticceria, Bologna www.reginadiquadri.eu Photo Giancarlo Bononi

This cake with a similar decoration appears in “Il sacrificio di Isacco” (The Sacrifice of Isaac), an artistic picture by the photographer Giancarlo Bononi, which is inspired by Caravaggio’s work. Bononi is the author of an impressive photo gallery reproducing the attitudes of the characters and the wonderful play of shadows and light of the original paintings, but having the models dressed with modern clothes and introducing a sweet element in each picture. Francesco Elmi is the one on the right (see also www.piwwe.com).

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8 1 .n -- www.pasticceriainternazionale.com moc.elanoizanretniaireccitsap.www -- n. 110192 2011


www.luxardo.it


NEWS

COMPACT QUALITY PRESERVATION Nice is the new Irinox compact holding cabinet that fits easily in professional kitchens or labs. It runs both positive (+15°C) and negative temperatures (-25°C) and features Dynamic Power, an exclusive cooler specifically designed by Irinox which keeps set holding temperatures, avoiding sudden changes that usually occur due to frequent use and that can damage food. Solid construction, special safety systems (slow magnetic closing) and a specific control system are a further guarantee of constant temperature. The efficiency of the exclusive defrosting system stops ice forming and the consequent cut-outs which often occur in ordinary fridges. Nice can be used continuously without having to turn it off to achieve perfect defrosting. To preserve food properly and to avoid food damage (too dry or too damp) the right humidity is also important. The humidity control system makes it possible to create the ideal atmosphere inside the holding cabinet and levels ranging from 50% to 95% can be set to meet individual needs. www.irinox.com

Nice delivers the full quality of an Irinox holding cabinet in a compact version suitable for professional kitchens and labs.

From appetizer to dessert A manufacturer of gelato and pastry machines, Bravo comes into the savoury world thanks to Trittico Executive, that can be used to cook, emulsify, temper, cool down and as a blast freezer. The machine cooks in the upper part and cools in the lower one: the upper vertical tank allows to control the whole cooking process and to pour each ingredient at the right moment, while in the lower tank the blast freezing and the cooling process occur. Tanks are completely independent and can work simultaneously, thus giving the opportunity of performing two different processes at the same time. Moreover, the two tanks are connected by an internal pipe (one of the 20 patents connected to Trittico) that ensures hygiene and quality, avoiding any possible alteration during the passage from cooking to blast freezing. Thanks to Trittico Executive additional market shares can be gained through the introduction of savoury specialities, since the machine can be used to make savoury mousses, béchamel sauce, vegetable soufflés, savoury jams, cheese creams, sauces and concentrates. Moreover, through GSG Service (a company of the group specialized in marketing, communication and consulting in the dessert business), Bravo offers a consulting day free of charge to the buyers of Trittico Executive or Business, with a Bravo Trittico Club expert. www.bravo.it

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190th anniversary of Sangue Morlacco Cherry “Sangue Morlacco” liqueur is Luxardo's second historical speciality after Maraschino Originale. It was created in 1821 by Girolamo Luxardo as a variant of cherry brandy made with marasca cherries, i.e. a sour cherry variety exclusively cultivated by Luxardo. It is obtained by the infusion of fermented marasca juice and it is matured for two years in oak vats. This cherry liqueur was renamed as Sangue Morlacco (Morlacco blood) by the Italian poet Gabriele D'Annunzio in 1919, at the time of his military action in order to have Italy annex the town of Fiume. “Sangue” refers to its dark red colour, while "Morlacco" is derived from the name of a proud population of the Dalmatian hinterland. It is quite different from normal cherry-brandies, because of the intensity of the Marasca sour cherry typical taste and the expansion of its after-taste. It can be served neat, at room temperature or with ice, as after dinner drink, as ingredient in many international cocktails, and it is highly recommended with pure dark chocolate. In order to celebrate the 190th anniversary of the liquer, the packaging has recently undergone a restyling, with the introduction of a more rounded-shaped and heavy glass bottle, the use of cork, and an old-fashioned label with a small Italian tricolour and D’Annunzio's signature. www.luxardo.it

2ND PLACE FOR ITALY AT THE EUROPEAN BAKERY CUP It ended with a prestigious second place for the Italian team of the European Bakery Cup held in Nantes, France, in March. Won by Luxembourg, the competition put both the French and Swiss behind the Italians, in a contest that involved the creation of 6 types of bread and the same number of vienneserie, as well as a piece of art all in bread, inspired by a monument or place of their country. The three Richemont members of Italy’s national team were Riccardo Liccione, owner of the Angolo del Pane of Frossasco, Turin, for the vienneserie; Ivan Morosin of Torre Boldone, Bologna, for the six types of bread, and Emanuela Isoardi of Bra, Cuneo, for the art piece. The chosen theme for the various works was the Carnival of Venice.

2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19


Gary Rulli

Angelo Auriana

AND THAT MAKES EIGHT

In February, Gary Rulli opened his eighth store in San Francisco, in keeping with his professional obligations: since 1988, a boundless respect for Italy

For 22 years, the Emporio Gran Caffe of Larkspur, not far from San Francisco (United States), is the kingdom of Gary and Jeannie Rulli. It is the quintessential Italian pastry shop, a café and wine bar. Over time, this headquarters has been flanked by two cafes and a restaurant in Union Square in the heart of San Francisco, and four outlets at the international airport. We have written about Gary on a number of occasions (see “Pasticceria Internazionale” Nos. 60, 122, 129, 151, 231, 232). This professional, whose mother is Italian, is a shining example of a serious and determined entrepreneur. An honorary member of Accademia dei Maestri Pasticceri Italiani, he has a strong attachment to our country, which he visits often and celebrates both with his pastries and cuisine, but also through wines and his general education. Using entrepreneurial skill, a calm manner and an inquisitive and attentive spirit, Gary does not hold back on investments. Two of his most recent projects are in downtown San Francisco: the Bancarella Salumi Wine Bar on the busy Union Square (just opposite ano-

ther Rulli business), which is a glass structure with 50 seats. The other is at 2300 Chestnut Street in San Francisco Marina. Operating since February, this is the renovated Ristobar, appreciated both for good Italian food and fabulous wine shop, under sommelier Liberata Torlontano, including 16 dessert wines and beers, many from Italy. The interiors are carefully decorated with a large marble counter and frescoes on the walls, especially one on the ceiling which frames an imposing Venetian glass chandelier. Most online critics give favourable reviews and recommend leaving some space for the dessert “because this is where Gary shines, coming up with the best of Italian-inspired pastries throughout the Bay Area, and around San Francisco”. The dessert menu includes 12 suggestions, from a chocolate trilogy to a pudding with vanilla gelato, cannoli, semifreddo, gelato, and assorted biscuits. After working at the Valentino Restaurant in Santa Monica (Los Angeles), chef Angelo Auriana, a native of Bergamo, indulged himself in the kitchen, going from rustic to more sophisticated dishes, and starting with handmade pasta. The menu includes cold meat and

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PASTRY On the left, gluttony in a glass: rum baba with caramelized pistachios, mandarin and orange sauce. Italian-style mignon.

cheese dishes, lamb meatballs with zucchini sauce, pizza and many other delicacies. An Italian spirit of course pervades the lot. This begs the question: how does Gary manage to run this company, while always remaining calm and approachable? It must have something to do with his wife and children (Giancarlo 20, and Alessandro 16), as well as his sister Lauren, who manages the various rooms, and who for the last three years has been accompanied by Randy Wilcox, director of operations. A proven team that runs the various activities: the operational heart remains the central laboratory of Larkspur, from which products leave for Union Square and, twice a day, to the retail outlets at the airport. GARY’S WORLD "The more I learn, the more I am passionate about my work!". With his light eyes and kind look, Gary traces his career from the United States to Italy and then back to the United States.

How do you organize your workday?

I start early at the computer, checking sales in all stores; then I arrive at 7 in the laboratory to check all the orders of the week. I organise the team, beginning with the working of the yeast and doughs, both savoury and sweet. Then I have meetings with suppliers, with the director of operations and with the shop managers. I do some admin work, and then meet with staff until evening, when I supervise the restaurant. You have a new passion to keep you busy, don't you?

At the beginning of 2010 I signed up for a university course on organic vegetable gardens, and I now also set aside some time for my vegetable patch at home. Last season I harvested over 25 pounds of tomatoes a day for the cafeteria and restaurant. It took two years to develop my own organic vegetable patch in the hills of San Rafael, where I can grow several varieties of lettuce, tomatoes, fresh herbs ... and even berries. It is a useful hobby that also relieves a lot of stress!

The cover of the 2011 calendar that the Emporio Rulli distributed to customers. The picture shows Union Square with one of Rulli's shops on the far right. On the right, petits fours clearly of Italian tradition.

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Two Ristobar specialties. Below, an Italian style selection of cakes.

How does the main lab serve the other stores?

We cook three times a day: at 6, at 11 and at 9, supplying fresh products to the airport shops which are open from 5 a.m. to midnight, 365 days a

year, as well as the shops in Union Square, open from 7 to 22, 364 days a year. All the pastry is produced in Larkspur, except for what is made in Ristobar, which has its own production area. How do you mix Italian culture with American tastes?

Since 1988 we have always aspired to be authentic. After more than 22 years, we still do not offer muffins, bagels or American-style cakes. It has not always been the easy way or the most profitable, but I think it has allowed us to be unique, proud of our craftsmanship and of our Italian roots. New recipes, new tastes and new forms: how do you come up with innovations?

I have collected cookbooks and magazines for years. I believe in being continually up-to-date and I tend to personalise every recipe. I have good memories of when I was a trainee in Milan and Turin, and I often find myself looking for classic creations of the period, aiming to mix them with contemporary experiences. What is your favourite dessert?

Anything with apples, which remind me of homemade cakes. What Italian dishes do your customers prefer?

Without doubt the panettone and the whole range of leavened products for breakfast, as well as biscuits. Among the cakes, the San Francisco with baked meringue and fresh raspberries, and the Saint-HonorĂŠ. What festive leavened products do you offer?

In addition to the panettone and pandoro, the Yule Log, the Morenita (with meringue, fruit and whipped cream) and the Genoese, in addition to Befanini (aniseed biscuits), colombe, the pastiera and zeppole. How do you see the future of our industry?

As a craftsman, I believe that we must continue to differentiate ourselves with quality, expanding our markets, and using the internet, not just selling more, but educating consumers and promoting the craftsman's way of doing things. Quality at the highest level is the only way forward. http://rulli.com - ristobarsf.com

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PASTRY

SPRING Rustic pistachio base caster sugar fresh egg whites powdered egg whites peeled almonds pistachios icing sugar yeast potato starch ground pistachios to decorate

g 750 g 1500 g 10 g 800 g 1200 g 600 g 20 g 200 g 200

Grind almonds, icing sugar, potato starch, yeast, and pistachios in the blender to obtain a coarse mixture. Beat the egg whites until stiff, adding the sugar a little at a time. Wet the 3.5 cm high steel rings with water and pour the first mixture into the second one, being careful with the egg whites as in a normal sponge biscuit. With a pastry bag and a plain nozzle, make spirals on a baking sheet and then create spikes on the edge of the rings to get a border. Drop the crushed pistachios on the

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board, as decoration, and add a little icing sugar. Bake at 170째C for 1520 minutes. Store in a freezer at -20째C if required, or use immediately once cold.

Garnish mascarpone cream pistachio paste icing sugar whipped cream

g g g g g

500 500 100 200 300

Whisk the cream, mascarpone and pistachio paste. Add the whipped cream with sugar and mix until smooth. With a pastry bag, make spirals from the centre with the pistachio cream until you reach the edge of the rustic base. Cover the cream with fresh raspberries; sprinkle some pistachios and icing sugar over top. Store in refrigerator at 3째C for 2 days at most.

2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19

Gary Rulli San Francisco, Usa


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CONTEST

THE 12 WORLD PASTRY CUP TH

At the 12th World Pastry Cup – held in January in Lyon-Eurexpo, France, as a part of the Sirha – Spain won: Jordi Bordas Santacreu, Josep Maria Guerola and Julien Alvarez were awarded the trophy created by Antoine Arnaud, the gold medal, and also € 12,000 in prize money. Italy achieved second place with Davide Comaschi, Domenico Longo and Emmanuele Forcone: they

Above, the Italian team. Shown here, Gabriel Paillasson interviewed by the speaker during the competition.

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won the silver medal and € 7,000 in prize money, thanks to their desserts and artistic works inspired to the magic creatures of an enchanted wood (see the following pages). The Belgian team came out third: Dieter Charels, Marijns Coertens and Pascal De Deyne won the bronze medal and € 4,000 in prize money. Several special prizes were also given, such as the press award offered by “Pasticceria Internazionale” to Japan. Each team was composed of a pastry chef, a chocolate specialist and a gelato maker, while the jury – presided over by Jérôme De Oliveira, leader of the team that won the 2009 edition – included judges from the 19 participating countries. Gabriel Paillasson, president founder, and Pascal Molines, president of the International Organising Committee, were partnered by the Japanese pastry chefs Mitsuo Hara and Kazuaki Takaï as honorary presidents of the event. The next edition is scheduled from 26 to 30 January 2013 in Lyon. The Organising Committe decided to strengthen the presence of African teams at the 13th edition of the World Pastry Cup and thus organized the first edition of the Coupe d’Afrique last March, which was won by Egypt. Also the Ivory Coast team has been admitted to the international competition. www.cmpatisserie.com

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ENCHANTMENT IS A PLATED DESSERT MADE WITH CUPCAKES, CHOCOLATE SPONGE CAKE, MASCARPONE GELATO, MASCARPONE CRÉMEUX, WHITE COFFEE AND AMALFI LEMON LIGHT MOUSSE.

ALCHEMY IS A GELATO CAKE MADE WITH SPONGE CAKE WITH PISTACHIO, PISTACHIO AND MASCARPONE GELATO, MANGO, BANANA AND STRAWBERRY SORBET, RASPBERRY GELLY, MERINGUE AND CITRUS PARFAIT.

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CONTEST

Nymph chocolate cake As mythological characters of the woods, the nymphs of oak trees, or dryads, embody the strength and luxuriance of vegetation. The evocative power of the flavours, the magic of consistencies, and the harmony of colours: they all take us back to enchantment. From a thin chocolate sponge are diffused the flavours of cocoa and vanilla, the fragrance of hazelnut, the freshness of exotic fruits, finally to meet the consistency of the almond brittle and the surprise of the glaze covering.

Thin chocolate sponge cake yolks sugar egg whites sugar Ovoneve cocoa Valrhona 64% Tainori chocolate flour cream

g g g g g g g g g

280 190 360 120 4 40 160 80 160

Whisk the egg yolks slightly heated with sugar, whisk in the meantime the egg whites with sugar, cream of tartar and the Ovoneve. In the meantime, create an emulsion of chocolate and cream. Combine the two whipped masses, add the sieved powder and finally the emulsion of chocolate and cream. Spread thin, bake valve closed at 220°C for about 8 minutes.

Custard base milk cream yolk sugar vanilla pod

g g g g no.

345 230 128 58 1

passion fruit powder calibrated caramelized

g

1,5

hazelnuts

g

30

Melt the liquid butter and the chocolate, the praline and hazelnut paste. Mix well with the passion fruit powder and add the chopped crunchy. Spread on a thick bar.

Vanilla mascarpone cream sugar water yolks mascarpone cream Italgel Fast gelatin Tahiti vanilla bean

g g g g g g n.

120 31 80 325 325 7 1

Orizaba chocolate caramel caster sugar liquid butter butter Corman fresh cream glucose salt vanilla cocktail Orizaba chocolate cocoa butter Italgel Fast gelatin

g g g g g g g g g g

138 24 24 268 12 5 6 199 23 6

g g g g g g

160 320 320 450 30 5

Sablé Breton egg yolks caster sugar butter flour baking powder salt

Boil milk and cream with the vanilla, add egg yolks mixed in advance with the two sugars and bake at 83°C. Strain and use immediately.

Manjari mousse custard Manjari chocolate 64% whipped cream uht Corman

g g g

325 380 450

Create an emulsion with the custard and hot chocolate, when the mixture is at 38°C, lighten it with whipped cream.

Mango, passion fruit and banana gelatin passion fruit puree Ravifruit g mango puree g mashed banana g sugar g gelatin g water g

63 38 25 25 28 14

Melt some of the puree with sugar and gelatin rehydrated, add the remaining puree, strain and reduce temperature.

Crunchy hazelnut Jivara milk chocolate 40% almonds and hazelnut praline 60% Valrhona hazelnut paste Agrimontana liquid butter Valrhona sablé Breton calibrated grain Eclat d'Or

g

36

g g g g g

24 30 5 55 45

Whip the egg yolks with sugar. Meanwhile, sift together the flour and baking powder. When the yolks are installed, add the butter cream, then the mixture of flour and yeast. Spread then 5 mm on a plate and let it sit before cooking or store in a freezer, uncooked. Cook, fan on at 155°160°C.

Cocoa glaze water sugar cream uht Corman gelatin Italgelatine water cocoa gelatin

g g g g g g g

50 376 416 32 160 135 500

Boil water with gelatin, add the cream and boil, then sugar and boil, then cocoa and boil and finally rehydrated gelatin and simmer. Emulsify and filter. Chill. Use at 35°C.

Caramelized hazelnuts water sugar hazelnuts

g g g

80 200 500

Emmanuele Forcone Davide Comaschi Domenico Longo Luigi Biasetto (president) Alessandro Dalmasso (coach) Team Italy

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CONTEST

THE MAGIC CREATURES OF THE ENCHANTED WOOD: THE ITALIAN SHOWPIECES.

The Club della Coupe du Monde - Selezione Italia thanks

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GREETINGS

FROM SICILY CANNOPIGNOLATA Exterior dough flour sugar lard wine pure alcohol egg Pignolata cookie Manitoba flour eggs egg yolks pure alcohol lard

Meringue kg 1 g 100 g 100 g 300 g 50 no 4

sugar egg whites lemon juice, cocoa, vanilla and cinnamon

g 600 no 8 no 6 g 70 to taste

kg no

1 15

to taste

Prepare the meringue and let it cool down. Prepare, for the cannolo, a paste using the ingredients for the exterior dough and fry in the lard, using a tin cylinder. Having made it rest a little, mix the ingredients for the biscuit dough, form into 4 cm pieces and fry in lard at 120째C. Separate the cooled meringue into two parts. In one, add the lemon juice, in the other chocolate, vanilla and cinnamon. Mix with the cooled cookie and fill the big cannolo so it is white on one side and dark on the other.

2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19

Nino Costantino Messina Photo Salvatore Farina

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EVENTS

SUCCESS FOR THE FIRST JUNIORES PASTRY WORLD CUP The Italian team triumphed at the first edition of the Juniores Pastry World Cup, reserved to under 23 international pastry chefs, which took place last January in Rimini, during Sigep. Trained by the team manager Federico Anzellotti and the coach Gianluca Fusto, the young winners Andrea Borgognoni and Antonio Daloiso were followed by South Korea and France at the end of a contest involving 10 national teams, including also Brasil, Morocco, Mexico, Singapore, United States, South Africa and Switzerland. The video is available online, www.sigep.it

MY DEAR... coffee gelato stick

For 24 moulds Coffee and mascarpone sorbet mineral water granulated sugar atomized glucose invert sugar skimmed milk powder stabilizing agent SE 64 mascarpone cheese coffee beans coffee powder

chocolate liqueur UHT cream 35% g g g g g g g g g

1337 354 118 59 243 12 825 147 7

Heat the water to 60°C. Add the coffee beans, previously heated in oven at 150°C. Soak for 40 minutes. Bring to a boil, filter, weigh and add the water until you get the initial weight (120 g). Add to the stabilizing agent part of the granulated sugar. Add the milk powder to the water and heat to 20°C. Then add invert sugar and heat to 25°C. Then add the atomized glucose and at 45°C the sugar with the stabilizing agent. Bring it to 82°-84°C. Allow to cool in iced water. Heat the base at 20°C and emulsify with cold mascarpone. Cream at -7°C.

Frozen chocolate mousse whole UHT milk glucose syrup egg yolk granulated sugar Extra Noire chocolate 53%

18

g g g g g

119 95 71 71 179

g g

24 190

Boil the milk and sugar. Mix the egg yolks with the sugar. Dilute the hot milk on the egg yolk in 3 to 4 passes. Coagulate all at 84°C. Put in the measuring jug and mix. Emulsify the custard over the chocolate as usual. Whip the cream lightly, add the chocolate liqueur. Bring the two masses together. Pour into moulds and blast chill.

Espresso coffee gelatin Blue Mountain Espresso mineral water xanthan gel granulated sugar fresh lemon zest gelatin sheets or powder 200

g g g g g g

193 169 2 171 171 3

Add the xanthan gel to the sugar. Dilute in a carafe a little at a time the mixture of sugar water. Mix at least 5 minutes. Bring to a boil. Add the gelatine previously soaked. Add the espresso coffee and mix. Add the lemon zest. Strain and refrigerate.

Chocolate icing Guanaja chocolate cocoa butter Heat the chocolate to 45°C, add the cocoa butter. Mix everything well, in order to refine the micron structure of icing.

2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19

Andrea Borgognoni Antonio Daloiso


From the left, It all began, the Italian entremets. Walking on leaves; Between summer and winter; Autumn: the three Italian bonbons. Above, the Italian team.

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19


NEWS

PURE VANILLA PRODUCTS

In Cortemilia, the best hazelnut dessert of Italy After the success of last year, the town of Cortemilia, in the province of Cuneo, announces the 2nd edition of The Best Hazelnut Dessert of Italy, which is held on 28 August during the 12th IGP Piedmont Hazelnut Fair. Professionals throughout Italy are invited by the organizing committee – which, in addition to the Municipality, includes Livia Chiriotti of "Pasticceria Internazionale" and Paolo Massobrio of Golosario – to compete in six categories: best cookie, best cake, best gelato, best fresh pastry, best chocolate bonbon, and best Crema Novi sweet. Five professionals from each category receive a nomination for the final, which will gives the individual winners plus the overall winner, who wins the prize for Best Hazelnut Dessert of Italy 2011. The jury comprises journalists and technicians from the world of food and wine. The special prize "Pasticceria Internazionale - Comune di Cortemilia" is issued to a person of international fame for his/her use of IGP Piedmontese hazelnuts. turismo@comune.cortemilia.cn.it

Nielsen-Massey Vanillas has been producing pure vanilla products since 1907, for manufacturers of premium ice creams, gelato and novelties, chefs of fine restaurants and bakeries. Whether for industrial or retail use, Nielsen-Massey's Pure Vanillas are sought for their flavor and varied functionality. The company’s corporate headquarters is located in Waukegan, Illinois, USA, with ISO certified production facilities in both Waukegan and at Nielsen-Massey Vanillas International, LLC in Leeuwarden, Netherlands. All vanilla products are Kosher certified, gluten-free certified, and they have been a certified organic producer since 1998. Madagascar Bourbon Pure Vanilla Bean Paste is a quality product, which is the best of both worlds — pure vanilla with the addition of real vanilla bean seeds. It adds an allnatural gourmet appearance to any recipe and is ideal for crème brûlée, cakes, gelato, and icings. www.NielsenMassey.com

A new egg, lemon and cinnamon dessert By launching Ken Postres UHT internationally, Ken continues to broaden its range of products for professionals. It contains 100% natural ingredients which blend into a cream containing eggs, milk, cream, sugar, lemon and cinnamon. By introducing this product, Ken allows professionals to elaborate three desserts while maintaining the traditional flavor that a handcrafted dessert should provide. The cream must be taken to boiling point in order to obtain a crème brulée, warmed up without reaching its boiling point to obtain a custard, or served as it comes. Ken Postres UHT is gluten-free and therefore adequate for celiac consumers; it has a shelf-life of 180 days if kept at room temperature and must be kept at 0º5ºC once opened. It is sold in individual Tetra Brik packs of 1.5 litres. www.skisa.com CRÈME BRULÉE Heat over a low fire until it simmers (approx. 85ºC). Pour into bowls and allow to settle for at least 20 minutes at room temperature. Cool down (0º-5ºC) for at least an hour before serving. Sprinkle caster sugar over the top and caramelise using a mini-blow torch or iron broiler. CUSTARD Heat over very low fire until thick. READY TO USE Open the packaging and allow the product to settle and achieve room temperature. Pour in the desired bowls. Sprinkle some cinnamon over the surface.

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Double Salon du Chocolat in Paris The third edition of the biennial Salon du Chocolat Professionnel will take place from 19th to 21st October in Paris, Porte de Versailles. The event will gather chocolatiers, pastry chefs, confectioners and gelato makers, offering a comprehensive view of the market with the whole industry represented – producing countries, ingredients and raw materials, equipment, packaging, interior design, training... – and with seminars, conferences and competitions, such as Les Masters de la Glace, the International Cocoa Awards, and the World Chocolate Masters, organized by Barry Callebaut. 19 participants have been selected as best National Chocolate Masters and will compete for the title World Chocolate Master 2011, working on the theme “Cocoa, Quetzalcoatl's Gift”. The Salon Grand Public will be staged from 20th to 24th October giving space to international exhibitors, more than 200 chefs and pastry chefs (also some Relais Desserts members), demos, shows, a defilé of chocolate dresses, meetings, labs, tastings... www.salon-du-chocolat.com www.worldchocolatemasters.com

A consultant as a friend Gelato maker Giovannino Fittipaldi travels around the world in order to spread gelato culture, as he’s doing in Dubai and not only for the Cavalli and Bo-House Cafè. If you want to contact him, fittipaldig@libero.it

2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19


Approved Event


GELATO

GELATO FESTIVAL

WATER BASED FRUIT FLAVOUR Why milk is not required In the past, sorbet probably had the lion's share of the market, only to be ousted from its position at the start of twentieth century, thanks to industry and its massive use of milk. Milk is a primary food for human consumption, but today, due to many allergies, its use is limited or eliminated altogether in many foods, including fruit sorbets and gelato made with water only. This means an excellent fruit gelato can be made without having to resort to liquid milk or powder. How to maintain the softness We get the creaminess and keep it soft thanks to the perfect balance of ingredients and of the sugars in the mixture. The sugar content should be between 25 and 32% of the total. They are: • sucrose (65-80%) more common, less expensive, but too sweetening; • glucose syrup 42DE (20-35%) provides viscosity, controls crystallization, but is difficult to dose; • dried glucose syrup at 38DE (20-40%) provides higher viscosity than just syrup, it increases the total solids without changing the recipe, and it decreases the feeling of cold on the palate; • maltodextrins 18DE (2-5%) more concentrated, with almost identical characteristics to dried glucose syrup, but with a higher cost; • inulin (1-5%) gives creaminess to gelato and sorbets, reduces the calories and sweetness, and has a higher price. How much fruit in gelato? After considering the sugars, we can examine how much fruit we need for a water-based gelato with a long-lasting taste on the palate. The fruit is subdivided into body, taste and consistency: strong lemon, lime, bitter orange, citrus, tropical fruits in general;

22

average almost all the fruit pulps; weak apples, melons and watermelons. With regards lemon juice, we must keep to a maximum of 25%; for average fruits we need between 50 and 60%, while for the weak fruit we might need up to 80%, without the use of water. The following are some examples.

MARA DES BOIS STRAWBERRY 28% sugar, 50% pulp 3000 g (small bowl) Mara des Bois strawberry pulp sucrose dried glucose syrup 38DE neutral for cold fruit lukewarm water

g g g g g

1500 505 180 15 800

Clean and blend the strawberries with 100 g of sucrose to obtain a puree. Mix the remaining sugar with the other powder ingredients and pour in warm water at 40°C. Stir until completely dissolved, add the strawberry pulp and whip as usual. Note The strawberry as we understand it, red and juicy, is not a fruit but an inflorescence; the fruits are the small seeds located on the surface. In French gardens it was used as an ornamental and medicinal plant, later to become the fruit of the court of Louis XV of France. It originated in Britain, and the Mara des Bois variety is certified as a cultivar. Its intense bouquet is reminiscent of wild strawberries; although relatively small, it is of outstanding sweetness and flavour. It is also quite a hardy plant.

2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19


2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19

23


PASTRY

ECUADOR CHOCOLATE SORBET water sucrose glucose syrup 42DE 22% cocoa dextrose neutral for cold fruit Ecuador chocolate 75%

g g g g g g g

1800 500 75 150 15 10 450

Boil the water and add all powder ingredients previously mixed dry. Having obtained the solution, add the chopped chocolate and whisk as usual. Note: In this recipe we have a lower percentage of neutral, thanks to the cocoa butter as a stabilizer, naturally present in chocolate.

NATURAL LEMON 28% sugar, 22% lemon juice 3000 g (small bowl) fresh Ligurian lemon juice sucrose dried glucose syrup 38DE neutral for cold fruit inulin warm water

g g g g g g

600 550 150 15 35 1650

Grate the lemon zest in a part of sucrose (50 g), then squeeze the lemons to get the juice. Mix the remaining sucrose and all other dry ingredients and pour in warm water at 40째C. Stir until completely dissolved, add the juice and sugar with the zest and mix as usual. Note: The 4 seasons lemon, for its quality and aroma (limonin), is grown exclusively in Liguria, in northern Italy. This variety is indeed very resistant to the cold and to parasites that commonly attack other citrus fruits. Alessandro Racca photos Giancarlo Bononi (many thanks to Carpigiani for the shooting)

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GELATO

BERRY SORBET AND ORANGES AND PEPPER POCHÉ Berry sorbet Sarfrutta 50 water sucrose blueberry puree wildberry paste dextrose dried glucose syrup lemon juice

g g g g g g g g

180 2000 670 1000 145 70 70 5

Mix the Sarfrutta 50 base with sucrose, dextrose and dried glucose syrup; pour the water at 40°C and mix. Combine the wildberry pasta with the blueberry puree; blend. Let it sit for at least 30 minutes and cream.

Berries, oranges and pepper poché berries oranges sugar dried glucose syrup pectin sugar

26

g g g g g g

citric acid sugar (sucrose)

g g

3 20

Place in the saucepan the sugar, glucose syrup, sliced oranges, and berries and bring to a boil. Combine the pectin with 30 g of sugar and bake at 65°C for 30 minutes. Add citric acid mixed with 20 g of sugar. Check the pH, which should reach about 3.4 to 4. Put into sterilized jars, close quickly, flip and place in cold water for several minutes. This procedure allows the amylopectin to act and have a smooth and creamy texture, as well as protecting the natural colour of the fruit.

Assembly

Serve with poché of fruit with berry sorbet in bowl or small vase. Garnish with fresh mint, dried oranges and green pepper.

750 250 700 400 5 30

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Emanuele Saracino www.saracinogelati.com photo Roberto Sammartini


GELATO

ENCOUNTER gelato cup white base almond paste orange flower water

g g g

870 100 30

Add the almond paste to the orange flower water and white base; cream. Decorate with pine-seeds and fresh dates filled with almonds. Farida Haggiagi photo Salvatore Farina

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Ken Cream. The queen of freshness.

www.skisa.com

To contain such immense freshness, we’ve created a 1.5 litre carton. KEN cream is a traditional product which, thanks to

All this quality is just too much for a litre!

fast processing, heat treatment and innovative package, stays fresh longer. A unique cream available in numerous formulas to meet the various needs of professionals cooking and pastry.

Revolutionises the concept of cream. KEN EUROPE, S.R.L.: M. Azzarita, 206 – 00189 Roma - Italy. Tel.: +39 06 33250200 LIASA, Lacteos Industriales Agrupados S.A.: Av. Rìo Henares, 80. Pol. Ind. Ròdano - 19208 Alovera - Guadalajara. Spain. Tel.: +34 949 266 510


CUISINE

A busy autumn for

IDENTITÀ GOLOSE An eventful autumn awaits the team of Identità Golose - the international chef congress. They are busy exporting the successful format abroad and the first rendez-vous will be in London, October 18, where an Open Day on the best of new Italian cuisine will be organized. The traditional Milanese formula of the congress will be changed into a programme of live performances, i.e. meetings/classes with chefs, tastings of high quality products and a gala dinner. They will take place in the prestigious Town Hall Hotel in the heart of the East End, a lively district of the capital of England. The main show will be held in the luxury De Montfort Suite, the biggest in London, while some smaller suites equipped with kitchen units will welcome the partners of the event and their hosts. On 31 October and 1 November Identità Golose will move to New York City. Six well known Italian chefs – Massimo Bottura, Carlo Cracco, Moreno Cedroni, Gennaro Esposito, Davide Scabin and Emanele Scarello – will be guests of Oscar Farinetti at Eataly, where they will work four hands with six American chefs – Mario Batali, David Chang, Jonathan Benno, Michael White, Mark Ladner and Missy Robbins – in the thematic restaurants of the mecca of Italian food in New York. In November Identità Golose will go back to Italy in Rome, at the Open Colonna premises, on the top floor of Palazzo delle Esposizioni, with a preview of the main congress, which will be held in Milan, 57 February 2012. The following recipe was presented by Mehmet Gürs, the owner of Mikla restaurant in Istanbul, in January during the last edition of Identità Golose in Milan. www.identitagolose.it

PUMPKIN Sweetened Pumpkin PR

Remove the pan from heat and let the pumpkin cool down to room temperature in the cooking syrup. Store covered in the syrup at room temperature.

Yield: approx 30 pieces

unslaked lime (Quicklime) water No. 1 pumpkin (approx. 30 pieces) sugar water No. 2 lemon juice cloves

g 300 lt 1.5 g 1000 g 2000 g 1200 g 10 ea 3

Put the unslaked lime in a deep container and very carefully add water No.1 on top slowly (protective goggles are a good idea). Do not breathe in the steam that rises. Leave “lime water” to rest for 24 hours until the lime sets and separates from the water. Using a ladle carefully retrieve the “clear” water on top and transfer to a container. Peel the pumpkin and use the firm flesh close to the rind. Cut the pumpkin into 3.5 x 2.5 x 1cm pieces. Put the pumpkin pieces into the clear lime water. Weigh down with a rack to completely immerse the pumpkin. Make sure the pumpkin pieces do not stick to each other. Each piece needs to “breathe” in the water. Put the sugar, water No. 2, lemon juice and cloves in a sauce pan. Mix with a whisk until the sugar dissolves and bring to a light simmer. Remove the pumpkin pieces from the lime water and wash well under running water. Put pumpkin pieces into the simmering (induction 3) sugar syrup, place a rack on top to make sure the pumpkins are completely immersed. During the cooking, remove the pumpkins from the syrup every half hour and “oxygenate” them for 20 seconds before continuing the cooking process. Cook the pumpkin for approx 2 hours until they are crunchy on the outside and have a translucent golden brown.

30

Early harvest Antep pistachio ice cream PR Yield: g 700

pure Antep pistachio paste whole milk

g g

250 500

Put the pistachio paste in a medium size mixing bowl. Add milk slowly and whisk well. Transfer the mixture in a Paco Jet container. Freeze overnight

Assembly

Yield: 1 portion

sweetened pumpkin PR pcs 3 early harvest Antep pistachio ice cream PR g 20 hand crushed sesame paste “Sürtme” g 5 grape molasses g 5 early harvest pistachios, peeled & roasted Crumble the pistachios. Place the pumpkins on the plate. Arrange 5 drops each of the molasses and sesame paste on the plate. Make a line of the crumbled pistachios. Place a quenelle of ice cream on top of the pistachio crumbles.

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Mehmet Gürs Mikla Restaurant, Istanbul, Turchia www.miklarestaurant.com photo Brambilla-Serrani


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31


NEWS

1st Chicago Restaurant Pastry Competition The Chicago School of Mold Making organizes the 1st Chicago Restaurant Pastry Competition (CRPC) for working pastry chefs in the Chicago area. The single day competition will take place on October 16 and chefs will be asked to make 8 plates of an original, creative and innovative plated dessert and 8 servings of a dessert amuse from a mystery box. The winner will be the one that presents the most creative and Chef Jimmy MacMillan and Mibest tasting desserts among the five finalists, chael Joy, founder of the Chicaselected among city's top pastry talents by a go School of Mold Making. On judging panel, that includes chefs Curtis Duffy the left, the classroom where (Alinea, Avenues), Della Gossett (Charlie Trot- the competition will take place. ter, French Pastry School) and Jimmy MacMillan (Avenues, JMPUREPASTRY). Gold, silver and bronze prizes will be presented to the top finishers, including also classes and gift certificates for silicone molds, pastry equipment, Chocovic chocolate, and more. The competition will be videotaped and broadcast on the web via media partners Starchefs.com and “Pasticceria Internazionale” and on competition day the doors will be closed allowing only the competitors, judges and special guests. “Starchefs.com and Pasticceria Internazionale will help us broadcast the event, the desserts, and Chicago’s pastry chefs around the globe – says MacMillan –. I believe the quality of our pastry scene is world class; we want to share their work at the competition with the world.” www.chicagomoldschool.com

Small Temptations Silikomart is an Italian company established by a sole administrator, Dario Martellato, that constantly reinforces its status as leader in the market for silicone moulds for professional use, thanks to the launch of innovative solutions for an increasingly demanding public. Quality, versatility, efficiency and design make it a creditworthy trademark where culinary art takes shape stimulating professional creativity. The new 60x40 cm Mini Pyramid (Vol. 11x77 ml Tot. 847 ml), Mini Cube (Vol. 12x88 ml Tot. 1056 ml) and Mini Twist (Vol. 12x88 ml Tot. 1056 ml) moulds are an addition to the “sessantaperquaranta” (60x40cm) collection of the Silikomart Professional division. These moulds are suitable for the making of sweet and savoury, classic and creative, as well as innovative and traditional mignon and biscuits, and their size causes a more efficient use of cooking surfaces and a reduction of preparation times. With their flexible non-stick structure and special gloss finish, these moulds in 100% food grade silicone are fit for freezing and for cooking, both in fan and microwave ovens. www.silikomart.com

SIGEP 2012 HIGHLIGHTS CONFECTIONERY WORLDWIDE Sigep, the international exhibition for the artisan production of gelato, pastry, confectionery and bakery, will take place at Rimini Fiera in January, between 21th and 25th January 2012 on a 90,000 m2 area with 750 companies. The program will include special events and competitions. The Gelato World Cup will be back, expanded to 12 nations and dedicated to the theme “Fruits of the Earth and Sea” (see on page...). The Pastry Queen will be the first female international championship, with ten lady pastry chefs from the five continents showing their skills in four tests (cake, plated dessert, sugar sculpture and a surprise test). The Grand Gala of Pastry will host the winners of the World Cup in Lyon, those of Rimini’s Junior World Cup and the new elected pastry queens with the works that made them “famous”. The program will also include the national Junior Pastry and Chocolate Championship, to appoint the members of the Italian team taking part in 2013 World Championship, and the Italian Senior Championship, to choose the members of the Italian team taking part in 2013 World Championship in Lyon. Sigep Giovani, Sigep Bread Cup, 1000 ideas for a new gelato flavour, etc... will also take place. The exhibition will give space to the new BIOSIGEP area, dedicated to companies that have introduced the use of organic products in artisan confectionery. www.sigep.it

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The Gelato World Cup is a biennial event involving gelato makers, confectioners and chefs from all over the world. It represents a unique occasion for professional meetings and it enjoys a strong media exposure, aimed at giving international resonance to the new trends in the artisan gelato world. Argentina, Australia, Brazil, France, Germany, Japan, Italy, Morocco, Spain, United States, Switzerland and Turkey are the 12 countries that will take part in the 5th edition of the competition, which will be held in Italy in Rimini, during Sigep, the international exhibition of artisan gelato, confectionery and bakery, from 21 to 24 January 2012. Each team will include 5 members: team manager (who will also be a member of the international panel of judges), gelato maker, confectioner, ice sculptor and chef. During the 4 days each team will be asked to make a decorated table-service cup, a gelato cake, a decorated sales tub, a gelato cone, an entrée with gastronomic gelato, and a gelato dessert on the theme “Fruits (gifts) of the Land and Sea”. The technical panel of judges chaired by Mauro Petrini and the honorary chairman JeanClaude David (the captain of the French team that won the fourth edition in 2010) will choose the winning team under the watchful eyes of the competition commissioners, Sergio Dondoli and Sergio Colalucci. The prize giving ceremony will take place on the last day, with the closing Gran Buffet and an exhibition of gelato, chocolate and ice sculptures. www.coppamondogelateria.it

Expos and events in Italy The next MACEF AUTUMN, the international home show, will be held from 8 to 11 September in Milan, together with the 1st edition of AbitaMi, the decor and design lab. www.macef.it From 15 to 18 September the SHERBETH FESTIVAL will animate Cefalù, near Palermo. www.sherbethfestival.it Gelato, confectionery, chocolate, coffee and artisan food will be on stage at AGRO.GE.PA.CIOK. in Lecce, in October 8 to 12. www.agrogepaciok.it CHOCODAY, the National Cocoa and Chocolate Day, is scheduled for 12 October with the aim of promoting pure chocolate in Italy and around the world, while EUROCHOCOLATE PERUGIA, the international chocolate exhibition, will take place in Perugia from 14 to 23 October. www.eurochocolate.com Chocolate will be the protagonist also of CIOCCOSHOW from 17 to 21 November in Bologna, and SHOWCOLATE in Naples, 8-11 December. www.cioccoshow.it - www.showcolate.it SIA GUEST, the international hospitality exhibition will be held this year at Rimini Fiera from 26 to 29 November. www.siarimini.com Longarone will host MIG, the international meeting for gelato makers, from 27 to 30 November. www.mostradelgelato.com

800.525.7873 (PURE) • www.NielsenMassey.com

NEWS

THE 5TH GELATO WORLD CUP IN SIGEP


CUISINE

A HEALTHY

CONTRAST

Alessandro Boglione is head chef of Al Castello, Castle of Grinzane Cavour, located in one of the most evocative settings of the Langhe, between Alba and Bra, with a panoramic view over the surrounding vineyards. Everything is the contrary of everything: such is Alessandro Boglione. Head chef of the restaurant Al Castello of Grinzane Cavour, the conflicting but successful way in which he moves between life and work has placed him firmly on the stage of quality Italian cuisine, obtaining the coveted Michelin star a little more than a year after opening the restaurant. He himself struggles to understand himself: he loves meat but prefers to cook fish; he worked for years in the family bakery but does not eat sweets. This list of contradictions – interesting, funny, even strange – are the basis of his knowledge and the strength of his identity. These "contrasts" are his hallmark, forging a strong identity. Alessandro is a chef who knows where he is going and who has turned a passion into his life, working hard, always humble and respectful of all those who work and have worked with him. These traits came out during our interview with him in the magnificent mansion that houses the restaurant. The Castle of Grinzane is located in one of the most evocative spots of the Langhe, five kilometres from Alba, and built around the central tower dating to the first half of the eleventh century; it can be admired in all its beauty thanks to the 1960 restoration for

34

the centenary celebrations of the unification of Italy. A quadrilateral with a high tower, it houses the Enoteca Regionale Piemontese Cavour, the first in the region, the Museum with memorabilia of Cavour (Camillo Benso di Cavour lived there from 1832 to 1849, promoting innovations in agriculture and wine-making) and the Museum of Ethnography. Located in this impressive manor house is Boglione's restaurant and adjoining cafeteria. If the latter is the ideal place for a quick snack, a drink or a coffee complete with view over the endless vineyards, the warm and refined atmosphere of the restaurant is perfect for an unforgettable gastronomic experience. How would you define your cooking? "Healthy madness" which has its origins in the passion that has always accompanied my choices, and that goes back to 1987 when at the end of middle school, I opted for the hotel and catering school. Looking back, I can say that I was lucky not to start with the big names, but with people who conveyed a certain 'sensitivity' towards their work, and the importance of the human factor.

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Your cooking is local yet innovative: how do these two factors merge? By finding a balance which is arrived at through various factors: what you aim to express, the context in which it is expressed, and the potential customer who interprets it. You worked for two years as pastry chef at the Cafe Converso of Bra: how did this start? Pastry is the biggest of challenges. I do not eat sweets, not that I do not like them, I just do not eat them because for me everything is centred on savoury tastes. The project was started by my father, which my brother Federico and I picked up in 1999. We modernised and invested lots of energy, with excellent results. I left to follow my passion for savoury tastes, although I still collaborate with him. Pastry drives me mad because it is an exact science and I am an “instinctive bunglerâ€?: two aspects that can not live side by side. To what extent has pastry making influenced your cooking? I often make non-sweet sweets, using savoury products in desserts, sometimes for fun, or just to arouse curiosity in the client. For example, I like using our homemade artichoke jam with certain cheeses or sweets; I also love using saffron. I was already doing this more than ten years ago, when between '99 and 2000, I presented at the Salone del Gusto in Turin a line of chocolates with herbs and saffron with white chocolate. How do you create your dessert menu? It is a separate menu with an identity of its own. It is a small list of offerings that follows the seasons: nature is the driving force behind our choices. The spring menu, for example, includes a combination of white chocolate with liquorice mousse and banana cream; a semifreddo of ricotta with charred berries and cocoa bean crunch; two revisited classical desserts, such as profiteroles with coffee filling and rosemary glaze; and the lemon zuccotto with almonds and caramel gelato. How does a menu materialise? From everything and anything: it is the instinct that originates from anything, be it a dinner with friends, a magazine, a trade show, a moment of solitude. Is there a method you follow when preparing a menu? The composition of a dish should never exceed the number of fingers on one hand. It is a hard and fast rule that governs any recipe: the raw material is accompanied by a maximum of 3 or 4 ingredients required to enhance it. The moment you realize that a dish is too "messy", I begin removing until I find simplicity. The more the years pass, the more this work of removing becomes perfected in the search for simplicity. What sweet ingredient do you prefer to work with? I am crazy about marron glacĂŠ. What about your favourite savoury ingredient? Meat, or even better poultry, even though I love working with fish because of its quick cooking. What essential aspects do you believe are essential at the restaurant? The final coffee, too often neglected, which can ruin a whole meal, and the napkin, i.e. the fibre and the feeling that this leaves on the

Boglione with his staff.

lips when you wipe them. Ours are made of a flax and cotton material that give a pleasant feel. What is the future of cuisine? A move towards the simplification of supply and of prices. I am lucky to have been the last to arrive in a land with a high concentration of restaurants managed by big names. Before opening, I looked around analyzing the situation and asked: "This is the market, so how do I carve out a small slice for myself?" By keeping an eye on prices. What are your future projects? To look ahead and continue to grow together with the staff, which is my added value. Everything that came from the Michelin star on is all thanks to them.

2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19

Monica Onnis

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CUISINE

Rump in hazelnut crust baked polenta and steamed spinach rump g 150 bread crumbs, tablespoons no 4 toasted and chopped hazelnuts, tablespoon no 1 spinach g 50 maize flour g 100 water as needed egg whites, flour, starch, seed oil, extra virgin olive oil, salt and pepper Cook the polenta flour in boiling salted water, keeping it medium soft. Bake for 40 minutes, and then pour into a greased baking pan. When cool cut into cubes and brown them in the oven or under the grill, making sure they do not become too dry. Mix flour and starch in one dish. In another dish mix the chopped hazelnuts and bread crumbs. Beat the egg whites and continue with the classic breadcrumb coating, then take the rump and place it in a little flour and starch, dip it in the egg white and finish with the breadcrumbs and hazelnuts. Fry the rump in plenty of hot vegetable oil. Finish in the oven for 4 minutes at 200째C until medium-rare. Blanch the spinach in a hot pan with salt and pepper. Place it in the centre of the plate and arrange the cubes of polenta. Scallop the rump and place it next to the spinach and polenta. Season with oil, salt and pepper.

Hazelnut mousse with dried oranges sugar water egg whites hazelnut paste cream orange caramelized hazelnuts

g g g g l l g

600 400 200 350 1.5 1 100

In an aluminium pan, bring to 121째C 200 g of water and 400 g of sugar, making sure that the flame is not too high, thus avoiding burning the edge. Separately, whip the egg whites and drizzle in the sugar syrup until completely cool, resulting in an Italian meringue. Whip cream until the mixture begins to rise. Pour into a bowl and add the hazelnut paste, working with a movement from the top down, very gently. Finally, add the meringue repeating the same movement as before. Be very careful not to work the two mixtures for too long, which would otherwise break them. Place in a plastic container and refrigerate.

Dried oranges

Make syrup with 200 g of water and 200 g of sugar. Put the syrup on the stove until the sugar is completely dissolved and allow to cool. Slice an orange in very thin slices; soak the slices in the syrup, drain and lay them on Silpat. Dry them at 90째C for about 2 hours.

Assembly

Place a generous tablespoon of mousse gently in the cups. Add a handful of caramelized hazelnuts and stick in two or three slices of dried oranges.

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2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19


Star anise gelato soufflé almond sponge with candied grapes butter flour starch yeast

Soufflé milk cream eggs sugar star anise Sambuca liqueur almond strips

g g no g

250 600 3 100

no g

1 50

shot

black grapes, caramel sugar Make an infusion with 250 g of cream, milk and star anise. Separately mix three eggs with sugar without whisking them, and add them to the infusion. Bake at 73°C and add the shot of Sambuca. Cool, then strain and add 350 g of liquid cream, stirring until creamy and smooth. Pour into a siphon and load with two charges of gas. Allow to cool completely for about 1 hour.

Almond sponge egg yolks whole eggs almond paste sugar

no no g g

2 3 100 150

g g g g

50 90 50 8

Crumble the almond paste into the cutter with 75 g of sugar, being careful not to let it warm up. Melt the butter in a frying pan while maintaining a low temperature. Beat eggs and egg yolks with an additional 75 g of sugar. When they are well beaten, add the almond paste gently. Drizzle in the butter, stirring gently, add flour, starch and yeast, previously sifted, and stir from bottom to top. Place in a plate with edge already lined with baking paper. Bake for 30 minutes at 180°C with the valve closed.

Assembly

Cut the cake into strips to create the base for one-portion moulds. Siphon the mixture to fill the mould, then freeze in freezer or chiller. Heat sugar in a pan and let it brown, then remove from heat and sauté the grapes until evenly covered in caramel; allow to cool. Meanwhile take a mould from the freezer, detach it and lay in the centre of the dish. Place grapes on top and finish with toasted almonds in strips. Wait a few minutes before serving.

2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19

Alessandro Boglione Al Castello, Grinzane Cavour, Cn www.castellodigrinzane.it

37


NEWS

ITALIAN QUALITY CONQUERS THE US PROFESSIONAL MARKET In keeping with its international vocation, the Agostoni family, who have been at the helm of Icam since 1946, has now landed in the USA. They have gone one step further by promoting, through the Icam business, not just the outstanding quality of products, but also the value of chocolate culture. The company from Lecco boasts a long history of processing cocoa and making chocolate with the highest quality standards, to guarantee products that are much admired by professionals the world over. Control over the entire production chain – from the selection of the cocoa plantations in the countries of origin right through to the customisation of products for the professional market – allows Icam to offer a guarantee of quality, which ensures transparency throughout all stages of the production process, as well as complete traceability, in order respond to the requirements of an increasingly demanding, competitive market. Icam has been able to obtain rewarding results both in Italy and abroad and this success has opened the door to new business opportunities. In particular, the growth that has taken place over recent years has led to the set-up of Agostoni Chocolate North America Inc, headquartered in Los Angeles and created in order to support the expanding US market with a dedicate sales service, as well as the private label, food service and renowned semi-finished products distributed throughout Italy and a number of other European countries under the Icam Linea Professionale brand. Agostoni Chocolate is the first step that involves the ownership and the firm, and new operating branches are set to open soon, with particular attention being paid to the English-speaking world and other markets with major potential for development, such as Russia and other European countries. www.icam.it - www.icamprofessionale.it

TRENDY FANTASY Petits gâteaux are small inviting desserts, which can be produced by pastry chefs and gelato makers wishing to keep abreast of the times. Elenka offers a wide range of specific products for the making of such desserts, verrines, and also semifreddos and gelato cakes including layers of sponge biscuit, short pastry or puff pastry. Nine classical Italian tastes are available: chocolate, vanilla, hazelnut, coffee, zabaione, zuppa inglese, panna cotta, almond and strawberry. Moreover, Milka Speedy and Ciocco Speedy of the Top Mousse line are particularly suitable for the quick making of mousses. www.Elenka.eu

Fruit passion Coconut biscuit eggs sugar almonds flour coconut paste grated coconut

g g g g g

500 200 200 100 50

Whisk eggs and sugar in a mixing bowl. Add the coconut paste and the sieved flours. Cover a tray with Silpat and spread the mixture on it using a spatula. Sprinkle with grated coconut and bake at 220°C for 6-8 minutes.

Strawberry semifreddo fresh cream milk Prontocrema Base 786 strawberry paste

g g g g g

500 125 75 50 75

Whisk all the ingredients in a mixing bowl and, when the mixture is foamy, turn off the machine.

Orange semifreddo fresh cream milk Base 786 Prontocrema orange aroma

g g g g g

500 125 50 75 30

Use the same method as for the strawberry semifreddo.

Assembly

Cover the surface of a semispheric mould with the strawberry semifreddo. Insert a smaller mould in order to shape the thickness of the dessert and freeze. Pour some water in the inner mould, then throw it away and remove the semifreddo from the mould, making in twirl. Fill half of it with orange semifreddo, and put a layer of coconut biscuit. Smooth, add Fanta Fragola and finish with some strawberry semifreddo. Smooth and put a layer of coconut biscuit. Freeze, remove and spread with Gelatin Glasse. Decorate with sugar rings, strawberries, grated coconut and pieces of chocolate.

38

2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19


www.icamprofessionale.it

Italian down to the last drop. Every last drop of Icam chocolate contains something truly inimitable and unique: a passion for taste and creativity that’s Italian through and through. Sixty years of experience in the world of chocolate, carefully selected raw materials, full control throughout the farming and production chain and the use of the most advanced technology currently available: this is what makes Icam the last word in quality Italian chocolate. Icam Linea Professionale is here to help you turn this quality chocolate into exquisitely tasty creations that are Italian right down to the last drop.

I C A M L I N E A P R O F E S S I O N A L E . Y O U R I N S P I R AT I O N , O U R PA S S I O N .


NEWS

CUTTING BOARDS WITH ANTIBACTERIAL DISPOSABLE FILMS Strapper, the first cutting board with an antibacterial disposable film, was created by Piero Guglielmi, an expert in working polyethylene for alimentary use. Traditional cutting boards must be often changed in conformity with strict hygienic standards, and Guglielmi studied together with the chef Stefano Donigaglia this special multi coloured and multi shaped cutting board for food use. Its manufacturing process makes it compact, strong and easily washable, and it is equipped with a 2 mm special replaceable adhesive film on the surface, which can be easily removed when worn out (see pictures), while the base can be used many more times. www.strapper.it

Micron ball refiner The Selmi company, established in 1965, started its activity as hazelnut paste processing company and afterwards focused on chocolate processing, thus becoming a specialist in the manufacturing of tempering and covering machines. The company boasts unique features, such as the constant striving for technological improvements combined with the structural simplicity of its machines, thus guaranteeing fewer maintenance sessions and excellent service, which includes the machines testing at the customer’s plant. Conceiving and design, manufacturing and sale, direct shipment and assistance for the customers are therefore essential steps of the production procedure. Micron is a ball refiner that can be used to produce hazelnut paste, spreadable creams, pralinated products, cream sweets and all flavoured anhydrous pastes. The machine is equipped with a refrigerator with the purpose of regulating, within the set liThe Pro Loco of Cornigliano, near mits, the excess heat Genoa, is organising the Ciocofantasy caused by the friction generaHorror Show, with a helping hand from ted between the spheres, thus prethe chocolate maker Antonio Le Rose, serving the organoleptic qualities of the product. owner of Il Tempio del Cioccolato in The circulation of the product during refinement is maintaiGenoa, under the artistic direction of ned by a dual purpose volumetric pump. The refining cylinMassimo Santimone. The chocolate feder (20 kg capacity, 10 kg/hour) is also regulated to stival, which will be held at Palazzo maintain a warm temperature and to prevent the fatty resiBombrini on 22 and 23 October, draws dues between the balls from solidifying during pauses in its inspiration from well-known horror the working cycle. Power consumption is 4kW three personalities, from Dracula to Frankenphase 380V, 5 poles, 16A. The machine needs to be constein, "sweetened" for the occasion. nected to a compressed air supply. www.pasticceriainternazionale.it www.selmi-group.it www.prolococornigliano.it

CIOCOFANTASY in Cornigliano

40

2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19


My world has changed. My new multifunction helper: Multi Fresh速, Irinox.

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T. +39 0438 5844 - www.irinox.com


Of ficial supplier of

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THE INTELLIGENT CUTTING BOARD Strapper is a cutting board for alimentary use, composed by a polyethylene board and a special adesive film, that, once used and at risk for bacteria attack, is easily removable and changeable.

www.strapper.it

piero guglielmi

Via Brignani, 14/3 - 48022 Lugo (Ra) - Italy Phone +39 0545/30498 - Fax +39 0545/369327 - info@strapper.it

Made in Italy

PASTICCERIA INTERNAZIONALE World Wide Edition 19/2011  

Magazine of Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition in English language

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