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PA S T RY B A K E RY G E L AT O C U I S I N E

IGINIO MASSARI’S PROFILE PLATED DESSERT SUGGESTIONS SAVOURY AND SWEET GELATO RECIPES TECHNOLOGY AND PRODUCT NEWS

issue fifteen-2009

10064 PINEROLO - ITALIA - Tel. +390121393127 - Fax +390121794480 www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - info@pasticceriainternazionale.it


On this issue Light and linearity The silver at the Coupe du Monde Loretta’s magic wand Italian fragrance for Japanese fantasy Panettone time When gelato comes to the kitchen A royal taste Recipes from ICIF

Pasticceria Internazionale - World Wide Edition 10064 Pinerolo (Torino) Viale della Rimembranza 60 tel. +39 0121 393127 - fax +39 0121 794480 info@pasticceriainternazionale.it EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Livia Chiriotti SENIOR EDITOR Emilia Coccolo Chiriotti NEWS EDITORS Cristina Quaglia Milena Novarino Monica Onnis ASSISTANT EDITOR Chiara Comba TRANSLATIONS Alexander Martin MARKETING EDITOR Monica Pagliardi ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Luigi Voglino voglino@chiriottieditori.it ART DIRECTOR Studio Grafico Impagina PRINTED BY Tipografia Giuseppini

News Relais Desserts in Vichy Tempering and covering machines The new CP Multi Holding Cabinets at NRA Events in Italy Business for... all tastes! French touch Roll sheeter line Duciezio: Sicilian excellence An agreement for bakery Touching the senses Chocolate on a trolley Sweet Napoli A key partner for sheeters and croissant making Millennium dessert Gelato World Cup 2010 Dedicated to gelato A.B. Tech Expo 2010 in Milan Fine products from Sicily Crackling taste Cake decoration... and more A new format for chocolate

Pasticceria Internazionale - World Wide Edition is happily published in Italy by Chiriotti Editori Copyright © 2009 by Chiriotti Editori All rights reserved No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior written permission from the publishing house Supplement of “Pasticceria Internazionale” n. 222 September 2009. ON OUR COVER Lemon and mulberry spiral with lemon sorbet (on page 21)

SINCE 1978 THE MEETING POINT THE PLEASURE OF GETTING INFORMED

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LIGHT AND LINEARITY A tour in Iginio and MarÏ Massari’s Pasticceria Veneto in Brescia. He was the first Italian confectioner to be admitted in the celebrated Relais Desserts International association

Furniture goes almost unnoticed, giving the product maximum visibility. This is your first impression when you enter the Pasticceria Veneto of Brescia (www.pasticceriaveneto.com), and it is precisely this objective that Iginio Massari and his wife MarĂŹ wanted to reach with the latest refurbishment of their shop. "This one is the shop we wanted," explained the "most famous confectioner of Italy" to Pasticceria Internazionale during the visit. What strikes you most is the amount of light, beginning from the linear counter all the way to the ceiling. "The current lighting system uses LEDs, which means we have increased the amount of light while reducing energy consumption by 80%. With long counters such as the one we have now, people are encouraged to start from the beginning, go all the way to the end and then return to the middle. Display is important because it is a form of direct advertising." Dedicated display areas The linear nature of the display serves a dual purpose: it facilitates service and it highlights products for customers. And it is difficult indeed to choose from the 130 types of mi-

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Iginio Massari

gnon neatly arranged on refrigerated shelves in the counter, not to mention other sweets (oven-baked pies, semifreddos, and sweets of local tradition such as the Biscotti Bresciani) placed in dedicated areas and easily identifiable thanks to special tags. The brioches also have their own compartment, protected by an illuminated showcase and fitted with a system for heating them when needed. But chocolate is the product that most needs a dedicated area, as Massari confirms: "Chocolate is a world unto itself and as a result it needs to be isolated from the rest of the offering. Since

we introduced the island, praline sales have increased considerably. We need to offer a vast assortment because people are curious, and if given a wide choice they will buy more than what they intended." Every sweet on sale is described in the product booklet, which contains the ingredients of each of the 436 items prepared by the confectioner and his nine-man team (in addition to a sales force of six). The booklet is available to clients, who can consult it using identification numbers and product photos. "We have also inserted a declaration regarding the presence of allergens. This is a delicate issue: making food for people who have allergies requires dedicated rooms and equipment, including even the dishwasher! To be honest, the figures do not justify the effort." The product booklet is updated every time a new sweet is created. But how does a new product come about at Massari's? "Every recipe is a fully-fledged project that takes into consideration aspects such as work, weight, volume, aromas, desirability, enjoyment, form, elegance, preservation, and the general sharing of aromatic flavours. Every product needs at least

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CUSTOMER AND PERSONNEL RELATIONS Marì and Iginio Massari's many years of experience are useful to understand to what extent personnel counts, both in the workshop and behind the counter, together with the ability of establishing a rapport with the client, for such a renowned business in continual expansion. This is what we found out.

sixty days of study before producing it for sale. Normally, every year we offer twenty new products and we try to improve traditional offerings in order to bring them up to date." Rationality in the workshop The workshop, situated on the lower floor, is a model of spatial and above all work rationalisation based on an industrial work ethic. This term is always looked down on by confectioners, who make artisan quality their mantra. A clarification is therefore required: "I am all for technology," asserts Massari. "In the workshop we have all the machines imaginable, and before buying a new car I first think about a new machine. What I seek from technology is everything that helps improve quality, speed and precision, which is always a part of quality, while preserving the applicative intellect. For instance, cutting sponge using a machine instead of a knife does not jeopardize the quality of the product, it just takes less time and is more precise." And so over a 380 m2 surface area, Massari has placed a semiautomatic sheeter, a robot for cooking creams, two enrobing machines, a chocolate tempering machine, a volumetric machine for weighing mixtures, a rounding cutter, a gelatine spraying machine, a computerised doser, a machine for cutting with water or laser, kneading machines, induction surfaces and computerised ovens including a gas-burning oven which, according to its owner, bakes perfectly and reduces the cost of electric ovens. "Manually some forms of baking are unimaginable," explains the founder of the Accademia Maestri Pasticceri Italiani (www.ampiweb.it). Which takes us to the heart of Massari's production philosophy: large production volumes, made possible by machines, equipment and especially the use of cold technology. "Investing in cold products is more lucrative than everything else. We have a total of eight freezers in which we preserve products, labelled with the 90-day date of expiry. Depending on type, we freeze finished or raw products in their moulds, as is the case with the oven pies, which we produce on a daily basis. As specified by Italian law, clients are informed by the following declaration: our products have been cold treated at -20°C.

NEVER NEGLECT THE CLIENT Developing a rapport with the clientele is one of the key aspects that determine the success of a confectionary shop. Marì, who has always worked with her husband with everything regarding the presentation and sale of products, believes "the Marì Massari client should never be neglected. Our clients are used to receiving advice from us and from the staff, which is free to help the clientele in this regard. I am not sure why, but even new clients expect to find this type of trusted rapport." And, speaking of current trends, she adds, "A few years ago clients left more space for the presentation of products, for packaging. Today they are more concrete: they want more product, especially in the praline sector." STAFF HARMONY "The biggest difficulties are those related to the ability of creating harmony among the personnel, bearing in mind that we have many employees," reveals Marì. "It is increasingly difficult to work in harmony because the work is continually on the increase. It is especially difficult to insert festivities into the daily routine." PERSONNEL SELECTION "The selection of sales staff is complex," asserts Iginio Massari. "People lack motivation; almost all the girls who do this job see it as a stopgap. As for confectioners, I have rarely made a mistake in my selection. I can feel what their goals are, their motivation, social and family condition, how they relate to others, how many languages they speak, their hobbies, and above all their sentimental bonds. All this I do with discretion, without overdoing it, but just aiming for a simple chat. Based on this I make my choices." INTERNSHIPS Massari receives about two internship requests every week, but "sadly I have to turn them all down because internships are not provided for under Italian legislation unless they are sent through provincial or regional schools.

(continues on page 6)

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“Even if you look at every detail, as soon as you finish furnishing a shop you want to start over because you notice all the defects”.


FRUIT CHARLOTTE Sponge sugar eggs vanilla pod grated lemon rind egg yolks soft 00 white flour starch

g g n. n. g g g

150 180 1/2 1/2 100 100 100

Whip the first four ingredients and stir in the egg yolks a little at a time; sift the flour with the starch and delicately fold it in using a spatula. Bake at 200°C, valve open, for 20-22 minutes, in traditional buttered and floured 4 cm high moulds.

Orange-blossom soak water sugar orange rind orange-blossom soak

g 150 g 150 n. 1 g 80

Boil the water with the sugar and orange rind; stir in the liquor when the previous liquid has cooled down.

Fruit-based crème bavaroise egg yolks sugar rice starch cream vanilla pod milk mixed soft fruit gelatine sugarless whipped cream

Mix the egg yolks, sugar and rice starch; boil the milk with the cream and the vanilla pods. Stir in the two mixtures and the fruit puree, “cook à la rose” (82°C); add in the gelatine previously softened in cold water. When the mass gets to 28°-30°C, add the cream whipped to a smooth and shiny consistency. For every cake with a 22 cm diameter, stir in 100 g of fresh soft fruit.

Sponge finger cake surround egg yolks sugar vanilla pod egg whites sugar 00 white flour starch

g 130 g 60 n. 1/2 g 195 g 48 g 48 g 32

Beat the egg yolks with the sugar; whip the egg whites with the sugar until stiff; delicately fold in the two masses and stir in the sifted flour and starch. Using a piping bag with 10 mm nozzle, make 4 cm long sticks all stuck together. Lightly sprinkle the surface with 50% caster sugar and 50% icing sugar prior to baking at 220°-230°C, open valve, for 1012 minutes.

Assembly g g g g n. g g g g

100 100 10 250 1 250 100 10 400

On baking tin lined with paper, place the 4 cm high cake rings. Make the cake surround with the sponge fingers. On the bottom place a layer of soaked sponge, then a layer of vanilla and fruit cream, another of soaked sponge, and complete with the vanilla and fruit cream. Place in the blast chiller, and then in the freezer covered with clingfilm. When required, remove the sweet from the freezer and from the ring, and finish off with the fresh fruit and gelatine or simply sprinkle with decorating sugar.

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PASTRY

As for quality and hygienic safety, the product remains whole and could easily last for up to six months if the cold is properly applied, i.e. if after cooling the temperature remains constant at -20°C. According to Massari, cold, especially that of third generation with added nitrogen that also helps in the sanification of the product, will represent the future of confectionary and more. Rossella Contato

SACHER FANTASIA cocoa egg yolks eggs sugar starch weak flour baking powder

Cake base butter caster sugar orange liquor vanilla pod ground toasted hazelnuts

g 440 g 440 g 40 n. 1 g 140

NEWS

Relais Desserts in Vichy

g g g g g g g

60 140 340 150 200 200 10

Make a cream from the butter, sugar, liquor, and vanilla; beat the egg yolks, eggs, and sugar; amalgamate the two masses. Sift the starch, flour, baking powder, hazelnuts and cocoa; mix the lot using a spatula and pour into a greased and floured cake tin to 2/3 of the 4 cm high mould. Bake at 160°-170°C for 25-28 minutes, valve open.

Butter ganache dark chocolate at 45°C butter peanut oil

g g g

500 500 50

Mix the three ingredients together; the ganache cream should be tempered like the chocolate, and it is the same mass used for the filling.

Orange soak orange juice sugar orange liquor

g g g

200 100 40

Mix everything cold; filter with a sieve and let it stand for two hours before use. Store in the refrigerator. Assembly The French city of Vichy was chosen in April for the 55th edition of the Congrès Mondial Relais Desserts International, i.e. the annual public meeting of the association which gathers some of the world’s leading confectioners. The event was organised by Jean-Paul Bardet and the pastry chefs from all over the world set up wonderful buffets based on fruit, visited some local plants and worked on the theme of light confectionery (www.relais-desserts.net).

6

Position the cake rings on a pie-dish covered with a sheet of paper. Place a strip of acetate around the circumference, then a layer of cake soaked with orange liquor on the bottom, followed by a layer of raspberry jam, one of cake soaked in orange liquor, a layer of butter ganache, and complete with a layer of soaked sponge covered with a thin layer of ganache. Blast chill to stabilize; then cover the ring with clingfilm and place in the freezer. When required, add icing and store at 4°C. A sweet that keeps well.

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CAKE WITH RICOTTA AND CREAM... Sponge vanilla pod egg sugar starch 00 white flour

n. g g g g

1 250 175 50 125

In a small semi-rounded basin, heat over a bain-marie, to 50°C, the egg and sugar, mixing continuously with a whisk to prevent the mixture from sticking to the sides and bottom. With an electric whisk, an egg beater or a mixing bowl, beat everything until stiff, adding the vanilla. Work for about 15 minutes at medium speed. To check to see if the whipped egg mixture is ready, put a spoon into it and pull it out vertically: if there is a slightly elongated tip in the form of a bird's beak, then it is ready. Sift the white flour and starch over a sheet of paper and sprinkle it into the beaten mixture, mixing delicately with a spatula spoon using semicircular movements, from bottom to top. Pour the mixture into traditional moulds to 2/3 of the height (2 cake tins 4 cm high buttered and floured with a 22 cm diameter, or three cake tins with a diameter of 16 cm). Bake in a preheated 180°C oven for 22 minutes with half open valve. N.B. Sponge is baked when a slight finger pressure on the surface does not leave a mark. Remove the sponge from the cake tin when still hot and place it on a sheet of baking paper. The sweet should be lightly coated with caster sugar so that it does not stick to the paper. For the decorated roll

Cigarette mass soft butter icing sugar egg whites 00 white flour

g g g g

50 50 50 50

Amalgamate the mass, making sure it does not rise. Colour it using the desired food colourings; with a spatula, spread out a light layer on a sheet of baking paper or Silpat. Decorate with the comb, with your fingers, or with decorating tools; to strengthen the decorations place the sheets in the freezer.

Decorated almond roll egg whites sugar egg yolks sugar almonds white flour

g g g g g g

135 120 100 50 90 40

Beat the egg yolks with the sugar and finely chopped almonds. Stir in the flour and the beaten eggs. Beat the egg whites with the sugar until stiff. Amalgamate the two beaten masses. Spread out 400 g of rolled mass on decorative sheets with the cigarette mass. Bake at 240°C for 45 minutes, valve closed. N.B. After cooking, the roll needs to be removed from the hot baking tin in order to prevent any excessive loss of humidity. If kept in the refrigerator, covered with a plastic food bag, it will remain soft for 15 days.

g 250 n. 1/2 n. 1/2 g 80 g 70 g 20

Cream of ricotta and cream custard cream gelatin sheets ricotta cheese lemon rind lemon juice whipped cream

g 250 g 12 g 500 n. 1 n. 1 g 800

Boil in a basin the milk, vanilla, and grated lemon rind. Separately, mix using a whisk the egg yolks, sugar and rice starch. After boiling, filter the milk and incorporate it while boiling in the mass just obtained. Cook over a bain-marie, stirring continuously using a small whisk. If the mixture is cooked directly over the heat, use a non-stick or copper pan to stop the cream from sticking to the bottom and burning. As soon as the cream thickens, remove it from the heat. Cool it down rapidly in order to prevent lumps by pouring into a cold pan just removed from the refrigerator, and stir until no longer hot (until 50°C). N.B. Use only the yellow part of the lemon rind; the white has an unpleasant bitter flavour. Make the most of the vanilla pod by cutting it down its length: most of the aroma is contained in the black seeds inside. The proteins of pasteurized milk are poor distributors of the vanilla aroma. It is therefore a good idea to use 10% UHT (sterilized milk) to make the infusion. When cooking is over a bain-marie, the water must first be boiling. Excessive cooking times lead to poor flavours, especially when there are many eggs.

Soften the gelatine sheets in cold water; when they weigh five times their original weight, wring them out and melt them in a pan over a bainmarie or in a microwave; stir in the custard using a small whisk. At the same time, put the ricotta in the mixer for two minutes and add the grated rind and lemon juice; when it looks nice and creamy, place it in a bowl and carefully add the custard followed by the whipped cream still shiny.

Assembly

On a pie-dish covered with a sheet of acetate, place two cake rings of 22 cm diameter and 4 cm height, or else three of a diameter of 16 cm. Butter them evenly and sprinkle the inside with sugar, or else line with a sheet of acetate of the same height. Using a spoon, cover the bottom of the ring with cream of ricotta and cream, forming a 1 cm thick layer, and arrange the assorted soft fruit. Use a serrated knife to make three layers of sponge: place a first soaked layer over the cream; cover with another layer of cream making sure it is evenly distributed over the entire surface. Repeat the operation once more, completing the cake with a third layer of sponge. Place the cakes in the blast chiller to stabilize them; when hardened, lightly heat the metal ring with the flame in order to be able to unmold them easily. Heating is not necessary if the ring has been lined with acetate on the inside. Place the cakes on gold-coloured cardboard or lace, and decorate at will with fruit, finishing with a brushing of fruit gelatine.

Conservation

Strawberry soak water sugar strawberry puree Maraschino liqueur

Custard cream high quality whole-fat milk Madagascar vanilla pod lemon rind egg yolks sugar rice starch

g g g g

100 100 100 50

Boil the water and sugar; when the syrup is cold, stir in the strawberry puree and the Maraschino liqueur.

Once hardened, the cakes should be covered with clingfilm and placed back in the freezer inside their rings; at 18°-20°C they keep their freshness and quality for 60 days. It is best to move the dessert from the freezer to the refrigerator the evening before use, prior to carrying out the last phase of the decoration with fresh fruit.

RICOTTA CHEESE

is an Italian cow or sheep milk whey cheese. It is fresh, creamy, white and sweet in taste.

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RASPBERRY CAKE Sponge

See recipe mentioned in “Cake with ricotta and cream...”

Custard cream

See recipe mentioned in “Cake with ricotta and cream...”

Crème bavaroise gelatine sheets vanilla custard or white cream orange rind orange juice with jasmin infusion whipped cream

g 10 g 400 n. 1 n. 1 g 600

Cocoa icing water glucose cream sugar neutral gelatine cocoa gelatine sheets

g g g

250 180 400

Add the chopped dark chocolate to the custard cream and mix with the whisk until completely melted. When the cream gets to 30°-32°C, add in the sugarless whipped cream, gently folding it in with the whisk.

Pistachio soak water sugar pistachio paste Maraschino liqueur

g g g g

100 70 30 40

In a saucepan, bring the water and sugar to a boil. Pour the syrup in a basin with the pistachio paste, mix and cool. Add in the Maraschino and mix.

Almond brittle vanilla pod sugar butter milk ground white almonds 00 white flour

n. 1 g 150 g 80 g 40 g 90 g 40

In a basin mix with a whisk the sugar, vanilla and butter. At the same time, heat the milk in a little saucepan and pour it over the ground almonds to soften them; then blend to make a fine mixture that can be worked into the butter and flour. Form large discs like the cake; on a pie-dish covered with a sheet of baking paper place three rings of the same diameter as the cake; evenly spread 80 g of almond brittle using the spatula. Bake at 190°-200°C until the almond brittle takes on a nice light hazelnut colour.

Raspberry gelatine raspberry pulp lemon juice sugar gelatine sheets

g g g g

300 30 70 8

In a non-stick saucepan (not too large) boil the fruit and sugar, add the softened and wringed out gelatine and mix with the whisk.

10

315 100 125 190 190 75 12

Bring to 104°C. Add in the gelatine softened in cold water. Keep in the refrigerator and use at 34°-36°C.

Soften the gelatine sheets in cold water; when they weigh five times their original weight, meaning they have absorbed the required amount of water, lightly wring them out and melt them in a pan over a bainmarie; stir in the warm custard (30°-32°C) using a small whisk. At the same time, add the grated orange rind and juice, carefully stir in with a whisk; finally add the whipped cream still shiny.

Chocolate mousse cream custard cream dark chocolate 70% cream

g g g g g g g

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Assembly

On a pie-dish covered with a sheet of acetate, place three cake rings of 4 cm height and 20 cm diameter, lightly buttered and sugared on the inside, or else a sheet of acetate of the same height as the ring. Using a spoon, cover the bottom of the ring with bavaroise cream, forming a 1 cm thick layer. Position one layer of sponge previously cut using a serrated knife into three equal parts; soak it using a brush with raspberry soak, add another layer of bavaroise cream, making sure the circumference is filled out. Set aside 100 g of raspberries for this layer

of cream and the next. Repeat the operation leaving a small space for the almond brittle. Place the cake in the freezer and stabilize; when frozen, lightly heat the ring over a flame and remove from the mould. Complete with cocoa icing and decorate with fresh raspberries, currants and blackberries.

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Iginio Massari Pasticceria Veneto, Brescia www.pasticceriaveneto.com/iginio Photos Giancarlo Bononi

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NEWS

Tempering and covering machines Established in 1965, Selmi started its activity as a hazelnut paste processing company and only afterwards focused on chocolate processing. In 1987, Paolo Selmi joined his father Renato in the manufacturing of tempering and covering machines, then focusing on their continuous improvement and efficiency. Selmi boasts unique features, such as the constant striving for technological improvements combined with structural simplicity, thus guaranteeing fewer maintenance sessions and excellent service, which includes the machines testing at the customer’s lab. Conceiving and design, manufacturing and sale, direct shipment and assistance are therefore essential steps of the company’s production procedure, making it a leader in chocolate processing machines. The machine range includes also Comfit and Comfit Maxi coating pans, which are made entirely of AISI 304 steel. They are both equipped with an electronic speed control to optimise the coating of different types and sizes of products. The introduction of air into the rotating tank is controlled by a cooling system capable of rapidly enlarging the size of candies with the introduction of chocolate. During the following phase, a resistance is used to smoothen and polish the products and clean the machine. The thermoregulator on the control panel enables the adjustment of the temperature to suit the required processing. Both machines are supplied with an interchangeable air filter (www.selmi-group.it).

The new CP Multi Holding Cabinets at NRA During the NRA Show in Chicago (USA), the prestigious 2009 Kitchen Innovation™ award was given to Irinox for its CP Multi Holding Cabinets. The innovative work system guarantees perfect preservation, with temperature and humidity control to prevent temperature shifts inside the compartment ensurins maximum temperature uniformity. The Preservation System satisfies safety and security needs, offering flexibility and durability. Each CP Multi Function model allows combined control of temperature (from -30°C to +15°C) and humidity (from 40% to 95%) for each product, with a storage capacity equal to that of 3-4 standard cold storage cabinets. The CP Multi Function controls the humidity of all food products, selecting from six levels and from 0°C to +15°C. Every product can be preserved with the right percentage of humidity. It is also suitable for the most delicate foods and each one can be stored at the preselected temperature, without sudden thermal changes. The cabinet’s large body is designed to create space for products and supplies efficiently organized and allowing for easy access. It is also suitable for preserving chocolate, sugar decorations and products with chocolate icing for long periods of time, thanks to a constant temperature of +14°/+15°C and a very low level of humidity (40%-50%). It is also possible to set the Multi Cold Storage cabinet according to one’s needs, with the possibility of changing the temperature and humidity at any moment, updating the Irinox Software and adapting it to a particular product (i.e. gelato, fresh pasta, etc.) Moreover, the CP Multi Function cold storage has an innovative control system for ventilation and humidity, a guaranteed non stop safety system and a complete compartment sanitation system. Sanigen sterilizes each section of the cold storage cabinet, making it free of bacterial contamination. It eliminates smells and the exchange of flavours and aromas among different food products (www.irinox.com).

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EVENTS IN ITALY HOST, the professional hospitality fair is back in Milan, from 23 to 27 October together with Mippp, Milan – bread, pizza and pasta fair; SIC, the international coffee fair; Hotel Emotion, the hotel industry fair, and Shop Project, the international fair for the design and furnishing of sales outlets (www.host.fieramilanoexpocts.it). The BAROLO & CO. - LA CARTA DEI DOLCI AWARD is given every year to Italian restaurants offering special pastry menus and their names are collected in a guide with the support of “Pasticceria Internazionale”. The new entries will be given prizes the 8 and 9 November in Piedmont, and also the famous chef Gualtiero Marchesi will receive a special prize for his career (www.baroloeco.it). Napoli will welcome Accademia Maestri Pasticceri Italiani for their annual symposium. The 10 of November the pastry chefs will show their art in the wonderful Museo Archeologico Nazionale (www.ampiweb.it). The world of hospitality is the focus of SIA Guest in Rimini, which will take place from 21 to 24 November at Rimini Fiera (www.siarimini.it). Longarone will host MIG, the international meeting for gelato makers, from 29 November to 2 December (www.mostradelgelato.com). Gelato, together with confectionery and bakery production, will be on show at SIGEP in Rimini, from 23 to 27 January 2010, together with SIGIFT (www.sigep.it www.sigift.it).

Business for… all tastes! The 31st edition of Sigep will take place in Rimini Fiera from 23 to 27 January 2010. The expo is acknowledged as the world´s most important event in the artisan gelato field, a primary European showcase for artisan Italian confectionery and it is also strengthening its position in the artisan bakery field and in the coffee sector. All the latest novelties in raw materials, basic products, plants, machinery, furnishing and fittings for the artisan gelato, confectionery and bakery trades will be on show. Thematic sections, contests and championships, demos, internships and seminars and expos will contribute to making it a unique event. The 2010 edition will host some important events – such as the Gelato World Cup (see page 38), Sigep Bread Cup and the Italian selection for the World Pastry Cup – and the organizers are now busy working to increase the expo’s international profile. Moreover, the first edition of SIGIFT will also be held from January 23 to 27 simultaneously with Sigep. The favour, comfit, decoration e gift show will be organised by Rimini Fiera and Tutto Fiere, with the purpose of highlighting all the aspects of the artisan confectionery chain (www.sigep.it - www.sigift.com).

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SELMI SRL Via Statale,151 - 12069 Santa Vittoria d’Alba (CN) Tel. +39.0172.479273/75 (r.a.) - Fax +39.0172.477814 www.selmi-group.it - info@selmi-group.it


The silver at the

COUPE DU MONDE The French team won the World Pastry Cup 2009 in Lyon last January, while the Italian team came second and its members were awarded the silver medal and € 7,000 prize. Here are the recipe of the plated dessert (the best score in its category) by Giancarlo Cortinovis, and the brief descriptions of the chocolate entremets by Alessandro Dalmasso and of the frozen dessert by Domenico Longo. The Italian team was directed by manager and trainer Luigi Biasetto and the desserts and artistic works were inspired by Dante’s Divine Comedy. Great success for the 20th anniversary of the Coupe, founded and wonderfully presided by Mof Gabriel Paillasson.

LAST TEMPTATION PLATED DESSERT California almond biscuit with diced apple and crystallized pine kernels whole eggs g 315 California almond paste 50% g 320 extra-virgin olive oil g 100 biscuit flour g 60 chemical yeast g 4 crystallized pine kernels diced apples Heat the almond paste in the microwave at 40°C and beat adding the eggs one at a time. Separately sift the flour with the yeast. As soon as the almond paste mixture is stringy, take a little to mix with the oil. After having incorporated it, mix everything together and then delicately add the flour and the sifted yeast. Roll out to a thickness of 8 mm. On top of this place the diced apples and the crystallized pine kernels and bake at 170°C for 13 minutes.

Diced apples Golden Delicious apples raisins lemon rind

g 300 g 120 n. 1

Peel the apples and make small cubes. Add the raisins and lemon rind and delicately mix.

Crystallized pine kernels water sugar pine kernels salt

g g g g

100 100 100 4

Bring the water and sugar to 112°C, add the pine kernels while continuing to stir until the mixture becomes dry.

2009 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 15

15


PASTRY California almond blancmange Infusion n. 1

fresh cream sugar dextrose white California almonds

g g g

650 150 50

Place all the ingredients into a pitcher and, using a liquidizer, mix the lot until creamy. Cover with film and place for one hour in the refrigerator. Infusion n. 2

fresh cream lemon rind

g g

500 6

Pour the cream into a pitcher and add the lemon rind; cover with film and place in the refrigerator for at least two hours. Let it soften and melt in a container

gelatine water

g g

Sweet Sin of Gluttony, the chocolate entremets by Alessandro Dalmasso, was made of Coeur de Guanaja Sacher biscuit, white almond brittle, cocoa streusel grué, Orizaba caramel in slices, Sicilian almond cream, Guanaja mousse custard, Coeur de Guanaja icing.

12 60

KEY INFO Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie (World Pastry Cup) www.cmpatisserie.com

When the infusion is complete, filter infusion no. 1 using a sieve, making sure you extract 540 g of liquid. Add to this preparation the melted gelatine, and lastly beat the cream of the second infusion until you get a smooth and shiny structure. Add the lot, filter and cool.

Caramel Ivoire chocolate mousse Ivoire chocolate g fresh cream g fresh cream g

650 250 600

Place chocolate into a container and place in a 130°C oven for about 15 minutes, mixing every now and then so that it remains even. Transfer the mass to a pitcher and mix with a liquidizer; once you have an emulsion, add 250 g of boiled cream. Continue to mix until you obtain a nice emulsion, smooth and elastic, and bring to a temperature of 40°C. Add the 600 g of half-whipped cream, emulsify well and pour into the moulds.

Stewed apples in extra virgin olive oil rennet apples g 500 sugar g 205 water g 200 vanilla stick n 1 raisins g 50 salt g 2 Peel the apples and cut them into small cubes. In the meantime make an emulsion with water, oil, sugar, vanilla, raisins, and salt. Pour the mixture over the apples placed in a terrine suitable for the microwave. Vacuum-pack and cook in the microwave for 6 minutes. Drain the oil and then, using a sac-à-poche, pour the apples into the little rubber moulds. Blast chill to -40°C, remove from moulds and place them in the centre of the dessert.

Cinnamon and lemon gelato whole milk powder milk UHT cream egg yolks sugar invert sugar glucose stabilizing agent vanilla stick cinnamon stick lemon rind

16

g g g g g g g g n. n. n.

1622 116 604 90 400 30 90 6 3 3 3

(continues on page 18)

2009 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 15

Divine Love was the frozen dessert by Domenico Longo, including almond gelato, raspberry gelé, raspberry and violet sorbet, citrus fruit semifreddo, meringue, cocoa semifreddo, chocolate gelato, cocoa dacquoise, chocolate icing and macaron.


31 International Exhibition st

Artisan Production of Gelato, Pastry, Confectionery and Bakery

23 路 27 January 2010 Rimini Italy

Held simultaneously with

Organized by

RIMINI FIERA SpA Via Emilia, 155 路 47921 RIMINI - Ph. +39 0541 744111 路 Fax +39 0541 744772 Visitors: mrkgestero@riminifiera.it - Exhibitors: l.tentoni@riminifiera.it

Exhibition of Bonbonni猫re Confectionery, Decoration and Gifts

www.sigep.it


PASTRY

Heat the milk with the cinnamon and vanilla sticks at 18°C. Add the sugars at 35°C and then the stabilizing agent mixed with one part sugar, bringing it to 45°C. Stir in the fats (egg yolks and cream) and pasteurize the lot at 82°C. Let it cool and transfer to the gelato machine: when the gelato is ready, use a sac-à-poche to make it into the desired shape. Transfer to the blast chiller at -40°C, remove from the moulds and store at -20°C. Remove the gelato only a few minutes before serving the dessert.

California almond crumble butter cane sugar California almond flour biscuit flour

g g g g

100 100 100 75

Knead all the ingredients in the mixing bowl, place on two sheets of baking paper and bake at 160°C for 15 minutes. When the mixture is cold, crush using the cutter.

Hot apple pearls Golden Delicious apples sugar butter almond wine

n. g g g

3 60 30 50

Peel the apples and make small balls using a corer. Brown these in a buttered pan and add the sugar. Flambé with the almond wine and, when still hot, roll them in the crumble. Giancarlo Cortinovis

THE WINNING TEAM

FRANCE

Form left, the president Elie Cazaussus, Jérôme de Oliveira, Jérôme Langillier and Marc Rivière, the winninng team at the World Pastry Cup 2009.

18

2009 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 15


PASTRY

LORETTA'S magic wand

Interview with Loretta Fanella, former student of Albert Adrià, who has learned how to make her creativity known Small physique, blonde hair, and sky-blue eyes, Loretta Fanella looks just like a fairy. But behind her appearance is an iron will that has given her a formidable track record even before her thirtieth birthday: two years at Carlo Cracco's restaurant in Milan, three at El Bulli of the Adrià brothers, and two at the Enoteca Pinchiorri of Florence, not to mention Identità Golose's best pastry chef 2007 award. She is currently involved in consultancy, in addition to working with Caffè Mamà, a

FOUR SEASONS The Four Seasons faithfully reproduces spring, summer, autumn, and winter on each of the four interlocking puzzle pieces. A dessert must not only be good to eat, but also nice to look at: autumn is seen as a miniature vineyard, with chocolate terrain (in the form of mousse, meringue, and crushed biscuit), little chocolate and glucose leaves, and vine rows made by squeezing melted chocolate in frozen water. For winter, a snow-capped mountain was made using gelatine and white chocolate (with agar agar and gelatine), decorated with coconut mouse, siphoned biscuit (an El Bulli trick by which the mixture is passed through a siphon and cooked in a microwave), and snowman-shaped meringue. Lots of gelatine, albeit transparent and with a scent of lemon and peach, also for the summer sea, which takes on the blue colour of the plate bottom. There is sand all around, made using crushed black sesame praline, and the rocks are made of almonds and hazelnuts covered with chocolate and coloured with silver powder. To conclude, there is spring: a small pistachio gelato bird with meringue wings and head (I add a dab of powdered egg white to help the meringue rise, reveals Loretta) resting on a field of yoghurt cremeux covered with pistachio biscuit crumbs, sprouts and (real) petals (Photo Francesca Brambilla - Serena Serrani).

20

coffee-bar (also offering lunch) which her boyfriend opened in Livorno (Tuscany). Loretta creates breakfast and lunch sweets for the shop, in addition tuscany to sweets for festivities such as the Easter that has just passed, for which she made personalised eggs with surprises on a theme. Loretta, tell us about your training and work experience After studying at the hotel-management school of Fiuggi, I went to Verona to work with chef Fabio Tacchella for almost two years. I then spent five months at Cast Alimenti School of Brescia, where I was part of a team that helped teachers during courses. Following this I went to Cracco in Milan for almost two years. There I was in charge of the confectionary sector. While working for Cracco, I returned to Cast Alimenti for a few days to assist Albert Adrià on one of his confectionary courses. On that occasion he invited me to do an internship at El Bulli's. I accepted the invitation and in the summer of 2003, I made use of my holiday to spend one month in Spain. I stayed there for three years taking care of the desserts. During the winter break I studied and experimented new techniques and I also had the opportunity of doing small internships with leading confectioners such as Pierre Hermé. What happened after your Spanish experience? They treated me very well, like a daughter, but after three years I felt the need to change. And so I returned to Italy, where the level of restaurant confectionary was low and there was a need for new techniques and know how – someone who could give new impetus. Of the various offers (Rome, Milan) I decided to go to the Enoteca Pinchiorri of Florence, where they gave me carte blanche over the management of confectionary right from the word go. I worked there for just over two years, helped by three assistants. I always tried to do new things. Had it been for me, I would have changed the sweet menu every day, but unfortunately this is not possible in a restaurant. As a dessert specialist, to what extent has your knowledge of cooking helped? It has been crucial in many ways, not least with regards the organisation of work and the collaboration with the kitchen. Cooks and pastry chefs of a restaurant form a team that must stick together.

2009 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 15


When are you most inspired? There are no special moments. Some desserts came to mind just like that, without warning, while others started out as the memory of a journey, such as Giardino Zen, which was the result of a trip to Japan. I am inspired by everything that surrounds me. The source of inspiration might be a landscape, so I look at the panorama, the colours, or else an object, like a watch, or a game, such as a puzzle. Do you seek to innovate or are you more attached to tradition? Some of my sweets come out of tradition. For instance, I had to make a sweet using white truffle, so I started off from tiramisù and reworked it, but always keeping the basic ingredients: mascarpone and coffee. I also try to respect classical combinations. To those who expect to see me use the techniques acquired at El Bulli, such as spherification, I always answer yes, I use new techniques, but I try to remain simple.

KEY INFO CastAlimenti, www.castalimenti.it Cracco, www.ristorantecracco.it Fabio Tacchella, www.fabiotacchella.com Elbulli, www.elbulli.com Pierre Hermé, www.pierreherme.com Identità Golose, www.identitagolose.it Enoteca Pinchiorri, www.enotecapinchiorri.com

Other than the ones you prepare, which sweet do you consider to be perfect and which is your favourite? Hot apple pie is my favourite; the perfect sweet is cream millefeuille with crunchy flaky pastry. Rossella Contato

Do you choose ingredients according to some special criteria? First I respect their seasonality. In winter I use chestnuts, persimmon, and pomegranate. In summer, strawberries, watermelon, and melon. For you, what characteristics do restaurant desserts need to have? In a restaurant, the sweet always comes after many courses. It is ordered not out of appetite, but out of greed. It is something extra, so the pastry chef needs to create light desserts that are not too sugary. Ingredients should be natural and seasonal, and combinations not too harsh or confused. It is important that the whole sweet be eaten, and to do this you need to be good at making it. When I can, I go to the washing area of the kitchen to see the dessert plates returning from the dining room, because I like to see them empty – it is a sign that the sweet went down well.

SOTTOBOSCO

Plate-sculpture with meringue micro mushrooms, sprout tufts, a miniature chocolate trunk complete with twigs and moss (made with green tea biscuit). Making the flavours and forest aromas even more realistic is a spoonful of myrtle mixture and some pieces of eucalyptus caramel (Photo Michele Tabozzi).

LEMON AND MULBERRY SPIRAL WITH LEMON SORBET Lemon marshmallow egg whites g 40 lemon juice g 100 gelatine sheets n. 5 caster sugar g 250 water g 120 Cook the sugar and water at 117°C. Cool to 80°C. To one side, beat the egg white, add the cooked sugar and lemon juice previously heated to 30°C with the gelatine. Beat for almost 10 minutes.

Mulberry puree fresh mulberries sugar

g g

100 20

Grind with a mixer and pass through a sieve.

Lemon sorbet water sugar glucose invert sugar lemon juice water

g g g g g g

150 150 80 50 250 300

Heat the water, sugars, glucose and stabilizer to 80°C. Remove from the heat and add the lemon juice and water. Let it stand for 24 hours and then pass it through the gelato machine.

Mulberry pearls fresh mulberries

n.

Assembly

10

Freeze the raspberries well and close them between two sheets of oven paper. With a rolling-pin, crumble them for as long as they remain frozen. Keep in the freezer at -20°C.

At the centre of the plate draw a spiral with the lemon marshmallow. Fill the empty spaces with the raspberry puree. Cover the sorbet ball with the raspberry pearls and finish the decoration with fresh fruit petals and dabs of mint.

2009 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 15

21


PASTRY

THE WHITE PEARL Coconut mousse coconut milk coconut rapé cream sugar whipped cream gelatine

g g g g g g

Mix all the ingredients together with the Turmix. Spread out the mixture on a sheet of Silpat, giving the shape of a petal using a template. Bake at 80°C for five hours, so that they keep their white colour. Once cooked, curve them slightly.

100 40 190 30 150 3

Boil the milk with the coconut and coconut rapé. Let it stand for ten minutes; pass through a sieve. Add the sugar and gelatine. After about 10 minutes, stir in the whipped cream.

Hemispheres of frozen cream fresh cream g 100 Cool a small ladle with liquid nitrogen. Immerse the exterior part inside the cream for 5 seconds. Wait five more seconds and remove the cream hemisphere. Repeat the operation for the number of hemispheres required, allowing for two pieces per person. Keep in the freezer at -20°C.

Fresh raspberry puree fresh raspberries g 120 sugar g 35 Grind everything with a mixer and then pass through a sieve.

Assembly

Fill a hemisphere with chocolate mousse, leaving the central part empty so you can fill it with raspberry puree later. Cover again with coconut mousse and close with another hemisphere. Arrange five yoghurt almond brittle petals around the sphere.

Yoghurt almond brittle petals fresh yoghurt g 150 Isomalt g 50 icing sugar g 30 yoghurt powder g 20 citric acid g 2

22

2009 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 15

Loretta Fanella


MILAN 23rd - 27th OCTOBER 2010

We leaven up your business In coincidence with:

pizza Arte Bianca & Tecnologie Products and Technology for Pizza and Fresh Pasta

Baking and Technology Exhibition for Bakery, Pastry and Confectionery

Machinery, high-tech, ingredients, semi-finished, equipment and furnishings, inspired by both innovative spirit and time-honoured traditions are the highlights at A.B. Tech Expo and A.B. Tech Pizza Expo 2010. Milan, Europe's business hub and home to its largest trade fair centre, provides a unique opportunity to get together with key players in bakery, pastry, confectionery and pizza industries and to exhibit trailblazing machinery, ovens and facilities as well as world-class ingredients and semi-finished products designed to meet the exigencies of an increasingly competitive market.

THE MUST-GO EVENT! A.B. Tech Expo 2010 : the recipe to leaven up your business! Events promoted by:

In co-operation with:

Organized by:

F & M Fiere & Mostre S.r.l. Via M. Donati, 6 - 20146 Milano Tel +39 02 409221 | Fax +39 02 40922550 promo.abtech@fieremostre.it

www.abtechexpo.com


ITALIAN FRAGRANCE for Japanese fantasy

Fumiaki Ito is the Japanese pastry chef who won the 15th edition of the Luxardo Grand Prix. His pétits gâteaux and artistic pièce took their inspiration from Italian cities such as Venice, Milan, Rome and Naples. The competition organized by Luxardo (www.luxardo.it), which takes place every year in Tokyo, is a good professional opportunity for young pastry chefs seeking to improve their career

TREVI Biscuit Chocolate Caraque chocolate cocoa paste butter trimoline (invert sugar) sweetened egg yolk 20% almond powder icing sugar flour egg whites sugar

g g g g g g g g g g

120 12 127 30 67 49 49 49 99 48

Melt the chocolate and cocoa paste, then add the heated butter and trimoline. Mix the sweetened egg yolk. Sift together the almond powder and icing

sugar, and add to yolk. Make a meringue with the egg whites and sugar, then blend. Bake at 170°C.

Almond Caramelisé chopped almonds sugar butter

g g g

80 48 8

Roast the chopped almonds at 170°C for 5 minutes. Make a caramel with sugar, then add the almonds and butter. Leave to cool and then chop finely.

Ganache Orange Dry cream 35% milk chocolate 50% hazelnut praline Luxardo Orange Dry

g g g g

135 100 30 45

Bring the cream to a boil, add to the chopped milk chocolate and hazelnut praline and emulsify. When cooled down, add Luxardo Orange Dry.

Confiture d’Orange orange (finely chopped) Luxardo Orange Dry (1) water brown sugar butter granulated sugar invert sugar Luxardo Orange Dry (2)

g 100 g 150 g 150 g 12.5 g 12.5 g 37.5 g 18.75 g 20

In a saucepan, bring the orange, Luxardo Orange Dry (1), and water to a boil. When partially reduced, add brown sugar, butter, granulated sugar, and invert sugar. Pour the mixture into a baking pan and let it cool. Add Luxardo Orange Dry (2).

Mousse Chocolate Arriba milk sweetened egg yolk 20% granulated sugar Arriba milk chocolate 50% cream 35%

2009 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 15

g g g g g

100 25 1 220 200

25


PASTRY Mix together the sweetened egg yolks and the granulated sugar. Bring the milk to a boil and mix to make a crème anglaise. Incorporate to the melted milk chocolate and emulsify. Bring down to 35°C and blend the whipped cream.

Orange Dry syrup mineral water Luxardo Orange Dry syrup 30 Bé

g

150 a.r.

Warm and mix together all ingredients.

Assembly g g g

30 45 30

g

300

Place the rings on a savarin-shaped Flexipan mold placed upside-down, and line with plastic film. Pour the Mousse Chocolate Arriba half-way up the rings. Cut the Biscuit Chocolat into 5 cm circles, soak with Orange Dry syrup, place the Almond Caramelisé and Confiture d’Orange on them, and freeze. Place the biscuit onto the mousse and put in the freezer to set hard. Remove from the rings and cover with Pistolet Chocolat. Pour the Ganache Orange Dry into the indentation and decorate with orange peels and sugar art.

Mix together.

Pistolet Chocolat sweet chocolate

cocoa butter chocolate coloring (red)

VIAGGIO Pain de Gênes almond paste frozen eggs flour cornstarch baking powder butter

g g g g g g

281 246 35 35 4.5 123

Slightly warm the almond paste in the microwave, then beat by gradually adding the frozen eggs. Sift together flour, cornstarch, and baking powder, then incorporate into the previous mixture. Add the melted butter and bake at 170°C.

Semi-confits d’Abricot diced apricots mineral water rosemary butter honey (lavender) sugar apricot puree Luxardo Amaretto di Saschira

g g g g g g g

332 300 2 48 90 62 60

g

20

Bring the diced apricots, mineral water, and rosemary to a boil. Add the butter, honey and sugar, and cook. When reduced, spread on a tray to cool down. Add the apricot puree and Luxardo Amaretto di Saschira.

Boil the honey and sugar, and add the warmed cream and milk. Add the sweetened egg yolks and cook like a crème anglaise. Add the gelatine and let it cool down. When cooled, incorporate with the whipped cream.

Glaçage Amaretto di Saschira neutral nappage Luxardo Amaretto di Saschira

g

500

g

100

Pistolet Chocolat white chocolate g cacao butter g coloring for chocolate (orange) coloring for chocolate (red)

200 200 a.r. a.r.

Mix together.

Warm and mix together all ingredients.

Assembly

In a dome-shaped Flexipan, fill up half-way with the Mousse Miel. Place the frozen Semi-Confits d’Abricot in the center. Fill up close to the top with Mousse Miel. Close the top with the Pain de Gênes soaked with the Amaretto de Saschira syrup. Place in the freezer to set hard. Remove from Flexipan and cover with the Glaçage Amaretto di Saschira. Then cover with the Pistolet Chocolat and decorate with sugar art. Fumiaki Ito for Luxardo (www.luxardo.it)

Luxardo Amaretto di Saschira syrup water b 30 syrup 30 Bé g 30 Luxardo Amaretto di Saschira g 33.75 Mix together.

Mousse Miel cream 35% milk sweetened egg yolks 20% gelatine lavender honey sugar whipped cream 35%

26

g 175 g 175 g 70 g 6 g 80 g 8 g 312.5

Fumiaki Ito with Matteo Luxardo, Luxardo export manager, at Sigep 2009.

2009 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 15


A dynamic, flexible and technologically advanced company Tekno Stamap in cooperation with major companies worldwide is developing a wide range ge of new products. It is now present , directly or indirectly, in all Countries of the world rs, machines Tekno Stamap production range includes manual and automatic sheeters, planetary mixers, for croissant making, lines for puff pastry and laminated dough ideal for both small bakers’ and confectioners’ as well as for medium-size factories

Tekno Stamap srl Web Site: www.teknostamap.com E-mail: sales@teknostamap.com via Vittorio Veneto, 141 - 36040 Grisignano di Zocco (VI) - Italy - Phone +39 0444 - 414 731/5 - Fax: +39 0444 414 4 719


PASTRY

PANETTONE TIME

FICHISSIMO

Panettone with figs Figs marinated for 24 hours in Zibibbo wine Zibibbo wine l 4 Jumbo dried figs g 3,500

Place the figs in a container, pour the Zibibbo over them and keep them pressed for 24 hours. Drain them well at a temperature of 34°C. Cut them into 4x4 cm cubes.

380W at 30°C

g

1,000

at 30°C

g

400

white cane sugar

g

250

g

500

pasteurized egg yolks

Almond and mandarin icing almond powder

g

1,000

liquid butter

grated mandarin rind

g

300

coarse Sicilian salt passed

flour

g

50

through the cutter

g

130

figs marinated in Zibibbo

g

4,000

white cane sugar

g

800

egg whites

g

400

Place all the ingredients in the cutter and emulsify for about 50 seconds. Keep in vacuum bags in the refrigerator at +4°C.

First dough white cane sugar

g

1,500

natural water at 30°C

g

1,000

g

2,500

380W at 30°C

g

4,000

natural yeast

g

1,500

pasteurized egg yolks at 30°C flour for panettoni

water

g

500

creamed butter

g

2,500

Knead the flour, sugar, natural yeast, egg yolks and the first part of water; after 35 minutes add the butter and, once amalgamated, the rest of the water. Position the dough in buttered boxes and place in a raising chamber for 12-14 hours at 26°C. The following day use only when the mass has tripled in volume.

28

Second dough flour for panettoni

Start by kneading the flour with the leavened dough of the day before. Add the cane sugar and egg yolks; let it string well and add the liquid butter and salt. Lastly, add the figs and continue to knead, making sure you use the mixer only for the amount of time needed to insert the pieces. Let it rest in boxes at 30°C in the raising chamber with 75% humidity. Prepare the portions and place them in low 750 g fluted paper cases. Leave for 6-8 hours in the chamber until 2 cm beneath the edge of the paper case, and before baking them, cover with mandarin-scented almond icing. Cook at 165°C Cooking time 45-50 minutes Vapour 3 seconds Closed valve 30 minutes and 15 open As soon as they are ready turn them over and place them in the blast chiller at +2°C in the middle of the product.

ZIBIBBO (or Moscato di Pantelleria) is the name of a sweet wine. The wine came from Aegypt and was introduced in the island of Pantelleria by the Phoenicians in ancient times.

2009 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 15


THE CLASSIC Second dough flour for panettoni 380W at 30°C

g 1,000

pasteurized egg yolks at 30°C

g

450

white cane sugar

g

300

liquid butter

g

800

Cervia salt

g

120

raisins washed in 40°C water

g 3000

candied orange rind at 30°C

g 2,500

Start by kneading the flour with the leavened dough of the day before. Add the cane sugar and egg yolks; let it string well and add the liquid butter and salt. Lastly, add the fruit making sure you use the mixer only for the amount of time needed to insert the mixture. Let it rest in boxes at 30°C in the raising chamber with 75% humidity. Prepare the portions and place them in low 1.000 g fluted paper cases. Leave for 6-8 hours in the chamber until 2 cm beneath the edge of the paper case, and before baking them, cover with almond and hazelnut icing. Cook at 165°C Cooking time 45-50 minutes Vapour 3 seconds Closed valve 30 minutes and 15 open As soon as they are ready turn them over and place them in the blast chiller at +2°C in the middle of the product.

Almond and hazelnut icing almond powder

g

700

hazelnut powder

g

300

flour

g

50

white cane sugar

g

800

egg whites

g

400

Roberto Rinaldini Rimini www.rinaldinipastry.com photos Giancarlo Bononi

Place all the ingredients in the cutter and emulsify for about 50 seconds. Keep in vacuum bags in the refrigerator at +4°C.

First dough white cane sugar

g 1,700

natural water at 30°C

g 1,000

pasteurized egg yolks at 30°C

g 2,300

flour for panettoni 380W at 30°C

g 4,000

natural yeast

g 1,800

water creamed butter

g

500

g 2,700

Knead the flour, sugar, natural yeast, egg yolks and the first part of water; after 35 minutes add the butter and, once amalgamated, the rest of the water. Position the dough in buttered boxes and place in a raising chamber for 12-14 hours at 26°C. The following day use only when the mass has tripled in volume.

2009 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 15

With four shops in Italy, the talented Roberto Rinaldini has been leader of many teams representing Italy in world championships and is a member of the AMPI association (www.ampiweb.it). His trademark Rinaldini Luxury is a franchising: www.rinaldinipastry.com.

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NEWS

Roll sheeter line Rollmatic was founded in 1985 in Schio, near Vicenza, in an area where many companies produce machines and equipment for bakery and pastry shops. Thanks to this industrial culture and its founding partners’ commitment, the company profits from more than forty years of experience. Consistency, dedication and the ever-present drive for research and experimentation result in a prestigious place in the Italian market, as well as overseas, where the bulk of products are exported. Rollmatic is internationally acknowledged for quality and reliability, with products positioned in the medium/up-market bracket. At the core of machines, there’s a combination of technology, deep process knowledge, artisan production and technical progress. During the designing phase, cutting edge 3D design systems are used to simulate the machine operation, identifying and solving possible problems before passing to the construction phase. The Roll sheeter line stands out for the technical solutions adopted and the manufacturing details, which guarantee a fine and pliable dough,kneaded continuously and homogeneously, without interruptions, through a noiseless operation. The wide range of models and options (more than 35) spans from the simplest manually-operated machine to the most sophisticated programmable devices. Their main features are: a sleek, cornerless design, avoiding the accumulation of dust; easy cleaning; easy scraper removal and, in models with mobile tables, easy belt replacement; micrometric dough thickness adjustment; upward folding table to reduce overall dimensions. Both compact table and traditional floor-based versions are available and all parts in contact with the dough are food compatible. The wide range of accessories includes the cutting set and the flour duster, while the automatic dough spooling unit is available in the more prominent models. Semiautomatic and automatic versions have a simplified programmable touch screen and 100 work programs. Tables range from 500 to 700 mm wide and from 500 to 2000 mm long, depending on the model and version (www.rollmatic.com).

Duciezio: Sicilian excellence

French touch Déco Relief follows up the world innovations in pastry and chocolate decorations. With their experience, quality and French touch they offer a large variety of products: silicone and polycarbonate chocolate moulds, with 76 new polycarbonate models designed by recognized chocolate chefs; 300 silicone prints for sugar and almond paste making; food colourings, flavours and sprays for chocolate, sugar, cakes, and gelato; gum paste flowers and chocolate transfers; Isomalt, compressors, airbrushes, tempering machines and guitars for chocolate. Moreover, the range includes also chocolate fountains, displays, royal sparks and candles with coloured flames, etc. Déco Relief is present in 60 countries in the 5 continents with distributors. They participate in more than 25 international exhibitions per year around the world, making sugar, chocolate and almond paste demonstrations, teaching how to use their products and showing the last fashion in chocolate and sugar. This year the company is present at PIR-Moscow (30 September - 3 October), IBA-Germany (October 3-9), VKR-Ukraine (November 10-12) (www.deco-relief.fr).

30

Duciezio is the Sicilian sweets, confectionary, and gelato Association presided over by the journalist and photographer Salvatore Farina. He is supported by a group of well known Sicilian professionals: vice-president Salvatore Scarpulla; treasurer Samuele Palumbo; secretary Lillo De Fraia; councillors Michele Tedesco, Nuccio and Salvatore Daidone. During their first successful meeting, more than 60 pastry chefs and gelato makers approved with thunderous applause the following proposals. 1) Setting up the Pupaccena Prize. The sugar statuette is a very old sweet that is almost extinct; it is the perfect award to be given every year to the work that has most helped promote the identity, culture and image of Sicily. 2) The association's appointment will be held during the first ten days of February, every year in a different city with a historical and cultural heritage worth promoting. During the event, master confectioners representing Sicily will honour the host city by making typical sweets. At the same time, young trainee confectioners will take part in a competition dedicated to the Sicilian tradition. The winner will receive an internship in New York at the Biagio Settepani’s labs. 3) The organisation of Sicily Days Abroad during Easter.

An agreement for bakery VeronaFiere has drawn up a strategic partnership agreement with Fippa, the Italian Federation of bakers, bakers-confectioners and related fields. This agreement will run through to 2019 and will help promote Siab – the International techno-bake exhibition which will take place in Verona, from 22 to 26 May 2010 – as well as a series of events. "In short, we will jointly organise – said Giovanni Mantovani, general director of VeronaFiere – several informative and training convention appointments, also focusing on professional updates targeting operators in the field as well as consumers. A first strategic step bringing VeronaFiere-Siab and Fippa together includes their joint attendance at IBA in Düsseldorf, the international bakery exhibition (www.siabweb.com).

2009 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 15


NEWS

Touching the senses Idea5 takes its inspiration from the five senses, an emotional and tasting itinerary created by chocolate maker Maide Mazzocchi and chef Francesco Merlino. It is a box of 25 small discs made of combinations of various types of chocolate and spices, salts, flowers, and fruits. Five small discs for each taste, make a total of 125 discs and 250 g of product. The aim is to taste the individual discs or to create multilayered chocolates by playing around with various combinations. It is a sort of edible game of draughts (www.maide.it - www.francescomerlino.it).

Chocolate on a trolley

Sweet Napoli The young designer Andrea Vecera was awarded first prize in a competition set up by Municipality and Province of Turin Chamber of Commerce, for his Choc à Porter. It is a special trolley which can be used for serving chocolates and chocolate desserts in restaurants. The prototype is tested in Davide Scabin's restaurant, Combal.zero (www.combal.org - www.andreavecera.it).

Quality and research applied to confectionery art are the milestones of Vivadolce’s work. Today the company offers a broader choice of sweet and savoury frozen products, through the rediscovery of the Neapolitan pastry tradition. The company uses old artisan recipes, such as for the pastiera, a symbol of local confectionery, made of five basic ingredients – eggs, ricotta cheese, wheat, flour and candied fruit. Vivadolce offers pastiera in its Break&Cake line, including also cakes, krapfens and doughnuts (www.vivadolce.it).

Millennium dessert Architect Amira Chartouni's idea is taking shape: that of the dessert for the century for every Italian (and foreign) city created, by pastry chefs and chosen by consumers by means of a vote. Confectioners from Milan, Rome, Turin, Naples, Verona, Ferrara, and others, are already working to invent the dessert for their city. For example Il Milaneser, Milan's chocolate dessert, has been voted and sold for Saint Valentine's, offered with a love poem. The initiative for finding the most representative sweet of every city will continue until 2015, after the Expo Universale of Milan (www.milleniumdessert.com)

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A key partner for sheeters and croissant making

Tekno Stamap was established in 1982 in Grisignano di Zocco, near Vicenza, for the production of mechanical equipment for the food industry, and then increased its range of products including a whole set of manual and automatic sheeters, and automatic groups for croissant making. Big investments were made, leading to a dynamic and flexible company asset, providing customers with high quality software and hardware solutions, and developing technology both in the design and the outlook of the products. Being present (directly or indirectly) in 75 countries, Tekno Stamap is now a key partner in designing and developing new machines and systems with companies all over the world. In the Autosmart 7000 models, the user friendly touch screen makes the programming easy thanks to a “smart software”. It is possible to set 50 working programs and link together several laminating cycles in a sequence. The sequential programming offers the possibility of setting starts, stops, increase and decrease of the roller gap to meet specific needs without manual operation. The new automatic flour duster and the stress free dough winder reduce working time. Starting from medium productions up to industrial needs, these machines are a reliable aid. Autosmart’s special features are: variable speed of the belts from 20 to 120 cm/sec; color touch-screen 8’’; dough reeler with stress-free system; flour duster with adjustable flour quantity. Some optionals are also available, i.e. dough width control; cutting device with rollers and variable speed. With its rollers of 123 mm diameter, Auto 123 allows to work very hard dough and to get the thinnest sheets. It is available with 700 mm or 800 mm conveyor width, to work larger dough blocks with almost no limits of weight. Its special features are: rollers positioning with vertical drive; lamination rollers 123 mm of diameter; variable speed of the belts from 20 to 120 cm/sec; color touchscreen 8’’; dough reeler with stress-free system; flour duster with adjustable flour quantity. Optionals are dough width control and a cutting device with rollers and variable speed (www.teknostamap.com).

2009 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 15


WHEN GELATO

comes to the kitchen Gelato in Tavola is the international contest dedicated to gelato maker Enzo Vannozzi, which takes place every two years in Sigep. In the last edition in January, 8 teams – formed by a chef and a gelato maker – competed with great creativity: Italy won, followed by Argentina and Germany; fourth place for Brasil, France, Greece, Hungary and United States. The next event in Sigep 2010 will be the 4th edition of the Gelato World Cup

SEA AND LAND FINGER FOOD Prawn gelato cream 35% milk shellfish stock low fat powdered milk dextrose stabiliser prawns salt

g g g g g g g g

100 450 30 36 170 3 208 3

Parmigiano water-ice water Parmigiano cheese jelly dextrose

g g g g

500 300 3 30

Parmigiano water-ice

prawn gelato

Waffeln with foie-gras gelato, onions chutney and crushed, toasted hazelnuts

Dried salted cod gelato and rosemary, creamed chick peas soup

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GELATO

Dried salted cod gelato cream 35% milk dry glucose low fat powdered milk dextrose stabiliser dried salted cod salt extra-virgin olive oil

Foie-gras gelato water foie-gras dry glucose low fat powdered milk dextrose stabiliser dry sherry wine salt

g g g g g g g g

550 345 30 30 60 5 8 3

g g g g g g g g g

50 626 70 36 140 5 220 3 70

Onions chutney onions sugar vinegar salt and coriander seeds

kg 1 kg 1.5 g 300 a.r.

... SEA AND LAND MAIN COURSE cilinder cuttlefish, sea urchin gelato and cepes cannelloni Two-tones cuttlefish sheets of pastry mushed cuttlefish g black ink from the cuttlefish mascarpone cheese g extra virgin olive oil garlic clove n. sage leaf n. white wine salt and pepper

Sea urchin milk gelato 600 30 a.r. 1 5 a.r. a.r.

milk low fat powdered milk maltodestrine dextrose glicerine stabiliser sea urchin salt extravirgin olive oil

g g g g g g g g g

555 110 30 110 10 7 90 8 80

Marjoran sauce marjoran leaves; boiled cream; garlic clove boiled in cream; extravirgin olive oil

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2009 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 15


RUBICK’S CUBE plated dessert White chocolate and sweet cheese cream milk gelato base g 60 Gelostella yogurt 30* g 30 fresh cheese g 100 white chocolate g 130 fresh milk g 550 saccharose g 70 dextrose g 40 Vanilla Lab Stella* g 20

KEY INFO Gelato in Tavola www.gelatointavola.it Co.Gel-Fipe www.fipe.it/fipe/Comitati-n/gelatieri.htm_cvt.htm Coppa del Mondo della Gelateria www.coppamondogelateria.it Sigep www.sigep.it Luca Landi, Green Park Resort, Tirrenia www.greenparkresort.com

*Prodotti Stella www.prodottistella.it

Almond gelato milk gelato base fresh milk dextrose saccharose almond paste

g g g g g

60 630 110 110 90

Raspberry sorbet raspberry pulp lemon juice water dry glucose dextrose saccharose stabiliser

g g g g g g g

572 30 170 35 100 90 90

Passion fruit gelĂŠe fresh passion fruit juice pectin glucose water tartaric acid lemon juice

g 600 g 20 g 200 g 740+45 g 4 g 10 Luca Landi Enrico Benedetti Simone Bertaccini

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GELATO

ALMENDRADO In Italy, this type of sweet used to be known as mattonella (little brick). It comes from Argentina, where Italian and Arab immigrants met: they added almonds to the mattonella to create the Almendrado or mandorlato. It is a cream-flavoured gelato with citrus fruit aromas, almond essential oil, and sugar-coated almonds covered with almond brittle chippings.

fresh milk cream sugared egg yolks saccharose dehydrated glucose syrup dextrose skimmed milk powder pure milk protein vegetable fibre neutral 0.5% total

g 5,460 g 2,850 g 1,250 g 900 g 500 g 360 g 360 g 120 g 120 g 80 g12,000

Pasteurize the ingredients and, during pasteurization, add the vanilla pod, orange rind, and essential oil of bitter almond (one drop per litre). When thickening is almost finished in the vertical machine, add 1,000 g of whole sugar-coated almonds and extract. In a mould, arrange the sponge soaked generously in amaretto (rum or

Strega liqueur depending on taste and local customs). Fill the mould with gelato and blast chill at -40째C. Remove the mould and finish as in the photo, using Italian meringue to get the crushed almonds to stick. Elio Palmieri Gelateria Godot, Rovigo

GELATO SANDWICH Almond biscuit egg whites sugar egg yolks sugar flour starch

1

g g g g g g

700 150 700 150 150 150

2

Add one part of egg whites beaten with the sugar to the whipped egg yolks and mix. Add to the flours and amalgamate. Add the remaining whipped egg whites and delicately mix. Spread out on a baking tin with greaseproof paper and cook at 230째C for 6 minutes.

3

Giardiniera (fruit salad) mango papaya grapefruit strawberry

n. n. n. n.

1 1 1 5

Cut the fruit into thin julienne strips and soak in the orange juice.

Gelato mix

4

Flavours at will: we advise vanilla gelato with a mix of fruit sorbets.

Assembly

Place the gelato on the almond biscuit, mixing the flavours; alternate the layers.

1 first filling with gelato mix 2 place another layer of biscuit 3 second filling with gelato mix 4 distribute the thinly cut fresh fruit 5 close with a third layer of biscuit and cool

5 Presentation

Cut into toast-type segments, fasten with bamboo stick, and garnish with fresh fruit. Pierpaolo Magni Cast Alimenti - www.castalimenti.it Photos Vincenzo Lonati

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2009 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 15


NEWS

Gelato World Cup 2010 Preparations for the Gelato World Cup 2010 are under way: the competition will be held in Rimini Fiera during Sigep, from 23 to 27 January, which is partner of the event. Supporters include some Italian companies such as Bravo, Debic and Prodotti Stella, which will officially be the main sponsors, while the magazines “Pasticceria internazionale”, “PuntoIt”, and the web Chefdicucinamagazine.com are the media sponsors. For the VIP guests of the sponsoring enterprises and for the qualified journalists, in the Gelateria Forum a dedicated space will be set up, where it will be possible to discuss, to meet the competitors, to taste gelatos, sorbettos and semifreddos. The programme of the 2010 edition also includes: a totally renewed location, an increased number of international teams (from 8 to 10), and an entire day (Sunday) set aside for ice carving. The competition will take place on Monday and Tuesday (25 and 26 January) and the previously required sugar work of art will be replaced by a chocolate one. The famous pastry chef Eliseo Tonti will be the honorary president of the event. Requests for participation are coming from Hungary, United States of America, Spain, Switzerland and France; nations like Korea, Japan, Germany, Australia and New Zealand, Argentina, Mexico, Chile, Canada and Singapore have declared themselves interested in the participation (www.coppamondogelateria.it).

A.B. TECH EXPO 2010 IN MILAN Machinery, new technology, products and equipment inspired by both innovative research and time-honoured tradition are the major assets of the forthcoming edition of A.B. Tech Expo and A.B. Tech Pizza Expo, the baking and technology exhibitions, to be held in Milan from 23 to 27 October 2010, and involving companies operating for bread-making, pastry, confectionery, pizzerias, fresh pasta, gelato, shortorder eateries and catering. "The companies that are a notch above are those that are true playmakers, that come up with new ideas and are intent on delivering on the needs of a changing and more competitive market. There's a growing need to understand the requirements of consumers seeking products that are quick to eat, are rooted locally, are of quality and happen to be unique in their kind. This is why it is necessary to tailor for artisan businesses and large-scale corporations alike firstrate equipment and production lines, sleek and functional furnishings and superior ingredients. The exhibitions will offer first-hand contacts and exchange of ideas with business analysts, while bringing together entrepreneurs exhibiting innovative products and trade operatives seeking them to keep their enterprise one step ahead", said Aldo Tagliabue, the organizer of the event. Large numbers of manufacturers have confirmed their participation and already account the great part of the overall show floor occupied in 2007, and Milan confirms its pre-eminent role in the food industry and in world-class technology for food. To back up the development and growth of the show, the promoters and the organizer – the SIPAN Consortium and F&M Fiere & Mostre – are finalising strategic alliances with foremost vocational schools, trade publishers and associations to cooperate in events, seminars and training areas that will offer visitors a major opportunity to tap into a stream of knowledge (www.abtechexpo.com).

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Delicaded to gelato specialists

A new Bravo branch in Singapore opened a few months ago, providing South-East Asian customers with a brand new reference point for purchase, service, training and demos. The Asian branch Gelato Specialists is a sales office and a space where members of the Bravo Trittico® Club Team organise training days on gelato, pastry and chocolate. Furthermore, the space is fully equipped as a complete functioning workshop, within easy reach of professionals working in the Asian market. "I am very proud of Gelato Specialists – says Andrea Zanuso, Bravo export manager –. I was looking forward to having a solid base in Asia, because we know that pastry and chocolate are growing there, and we wish to provide our customers with a place where they can find the information and the help they may need to improve their work and increase their success. We are doing a great job there and now, thanks to this additional service, we will be doing even better!". Gelato Specialists also has a new website – www.gelatospecialists.com – with information about the Clubs and all events taking place in Singapore. The Bravo Trittico® Clubs are dedicated to the gelato makers and pastry chefs wishing to improve their careers in the gourmet gelato and confectionery business (www.bravo.it).

Fine products from Sicily Stramondo has been producing fine quality products for gelato makers and confectioners since 1940, and exporting all over the world. A love for the flavours and tastes of Sicily – already known for its extraordinary cuisine – has enticed the staff into developing and promoting regional natural and characteristic flavours in gelato and pastry making. The company’s many years of experience have allowed to develop a very unique production system based on the winning combination of key elements: the processing methods using cutting edge machinery and expert professional staff, and the use of the best local products whose naturalness and distinctiveness are known throughout the international markets. The result of this triangular synergy – innovation, tradition and naturalness – is apparent in the fine quality products guaranteed by the rigorous quality control system Iso 9000 – and thanks to which the company is placed amongst the biggest producers of semi-processed goods for gelato and pastry makers. Stramondo’s organic Bia range was developed to satisfy the need of the consumers concerned with the wholesomeness of the products and the cultivation methods of the ingredients, and has also won numerous prizes and recognition. The search for flavour and the desire to satisfy even the most demanding and unusual taste ensure continuing research and analysis of the changes (www.stramondo.com).

2009 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 15


Display touch screen Total control of the workmanships that allows in simple and immediate way to plan the type of desired biscuit.

The simple and creative machine that you have always dreamt of.

RIMINI - ITALY 17-21 January 2009 HALL B1 - Stand 90

DUSSELDORF - DE 3-9 October 2009

TF model for motorized wire-cut products

Not only biscuits...

ABM srl Via dell’Industria, 4/A 35040 Boara Pisani (PD) - ITALY Tel. +39. 0425.48.52.02 Fax +39.0425.48.306 info@abmitaly.it

The passion and the devotion to work of abm and its collaborators has simplified notably the use of the dropping machines for biscuits. Thanks in fact to the extreme simplicity and the easiness of the same, it allows to have a total control of the workmanships in only a few hours, even for a beginner. Our machine is exclusively gifted of components of quality, motorizations Siemens, Encoder Siko, inverter PLC and touch screen Mitsubischi. The use of the latter is important, as it brings the real images of the products and provides for an easy and fast insertion of the parameters, allowing the creation of every biscuit that your imagination suggests you. Try first hand the simplicity of the Drop. With our machine, the technological barriers are removed!


THE UNIQUE PLEASURE OF THE ORIGINAL SFOGLIATELLA NAPOLETANA

info@vesupreme.it


CRACKLING TASTE Pop Corn Crok is the novelty by Elenka, an unusual gelato emphasizing the crackling taste of pop corn (www.elenka.it).

Pop Corn Crok milk sugar dextrose Dailycream neutral Elenka cream Pop Corn paste Elenka Pop Corn topping Elenka caramelized pop corn

L g g

1 210 40

g g g

150 50 140 q.b. q.b.

Make a white base with milk, sugar, dextrose, cream and Dailycream base. Weigh, incorporate Pop Corn paste and work in the gelato machine. Decorate with Pop Corn topping and some pop corns previously caramelized with dextrose and icing sugar.

Cake decoration... and more As a producer of cake decorations with 30 years of experience, Alisei Decorazioni has always tried to innovate and satisfy the demands coming from the market and its customers (pastry shops, wholesalers and distributors in Italy, France, Spain, Switzerland and Eastern European countries), ensuring the quality of products and the “made in Italy� name. The range of items includes dyes for confectioners (hydro, metalized and velvet), airbrush paints, ink-jet, thermoformats, Brillo and Ivy ribbons, Sandy under cake ribbons, plastic numbers used for anniversary celebrations, compositions for religious ceremonies) and weddings. All of them are produced by the company itself which, thanks to a new business policy and organization, has become a point of reference for the major distributors in this field (www.aliseidecorazioni.it)

2009 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 15


Verona (Italy), 22/26 May 2010 The international exhibition dedicated to technologies, raw materials and semi-finished goods for production of bread, pastry, pizza and pasta. www.siabweb.com

SIAB 2010

A new chapter for bakery

SIAB turns a new leaf and returns better than ever for its ninth edition: greater internationalisation, an even better offering and a closer focus on business. Having been a landmark for bakery, pastry, confectionery, pasta and pizza operators for more than 20 years, SIAB 2010 - thanks to its 4 new specialist halls - will be a unique, not to be missed occasion for meeting the reference market.

Organised by:

In partnership with:

Promoted by:


A ROYAL TASTE

The magnificent Palace of Venaria, just outside Turin, is home to the gourmet restaurant Dolce Stil Novo of chef Alfredo Russo

The restaurant rooms – three square equalsized halls in a row, closed by cloister vaults and looking onto the Corte d'Onore – were revamped by New York architects Max and Lella Vinelli; conceptual design was placed in the hands of architects Carlo and Aurora Fucini. It is an expanse of polished dark green marble, gilded leather sofas and a round crystal table in the centre of the hall, satin-clad walls, marble tables on polished silver bases, and padded green leather chairs. This space underlines our understanding that we are in an exceptional location, and it is the ideal setting for Russo's cooking: innovative and personal yet deeply rooted to Italian tradition, especially Piedmontese, with combinations that evoke a collective memory of sorts. His simple style of cooking goes directly to the core, and is not artificial; it is full of taste and is never detached from a ludic dimension, as the chef himself tells us.

ber his/her stay here as having been something special, which is a combination of numerous factors, beginning with a professional albeit informal service. How does one achieve excellence? By keeping things simple. My cooking is modern, easy to understand and accessible to all, as you can see by the simple and straightforward menu that needs no interpreter. After all, were it difficult to understand customers would have a reduced sense of overall well-being. What is the philosophy behind your work? A search for the total well-being of the client. We want to broaden the feeling of hospitality by speaking of cuisine and not only of cooking: people have to understand that we work with dedication, sacrifice, and above all passion. The client has to remem-

A respect for tradition, research and innovation: how do you reconcile the three? I do not see them as separate. Innovating on tradition – although I prefer to talk of memory – does not mean changing its nature – it means giving it back energy and power. Being modern, or contemporary, does not mean repudiating tradition in favour of pro-

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43


CUISINE gress; it means using tradition, improving it, and giving it a new lease of life. I am a modern cook. I live in the present, and I want my cooking to be understood today and not in twenty years from now. Sometimes one is ahead of the times: at the moment the menu has dishes we were making in 1991, such as our very popular ravioli of 'zampone’ with lentils.

Zampone is a Christmas specialty made of spiced, salted and minced pork meat and rind. It is inserted in the swine foreleg and it takes its form.

What value do you give to purity of taste and genuine flavours? Every dish is created starting from an idea that I work on until obtaining the end result, which is always the product of a work of subtraction, rather than of addition. Our cooking reflects our way of being. The search for pure taste goes back a long way. In 1990 we did away with all brown bases, a silent yet important revolution. I was not interested in stabilising the flavour of a dish, rather I wanted to emphasise its peculiarities. I do not make mixtures of herbs or spices, nor do I use 'soffritti' or too many ingredients; I give each flavour the freedom to emerge. The result is healthier and more natural. Tell us about your menu? It is a 'dynamic' menu with dishes changed on a daily basis depending on the freshness and quality of the raw materials. For the tasting menu, by contrast, I ask the guest to give me 'carte blanche'. And the sweets menus? They have the same structure as the tasting

44

menu, with the same playful approach. There are two menus, one of five and the other of three dishes, served as a surprise and different every day. The element of surprise, which means we are not bound to too precise a framework, let us work with more attention on the individual client. What sweets are on the menu and which ones are the most popular? I have never noticed a preference; there is a very varied demand. In summer and winter we have at least one chocolate dessert, one or two cream and fruit based desserts, and a series of gelato and sorbets. The menu, for us, be it the dessert or savoury one, is only an introduction, a work tool, the basic minimum that we can show to the client. We prefer hors-menu, which is less limiting and more seasonal, even if more difficult to manage in certain contexts. What is pre-dessert? A small fresh taste, usually fruit based, never too saturated or heavy, in keeping with the rest of the menu. It serves the same purpose as an appetizer, namely that a change is taking place, and it introduces the sweet course. Anything new? The small pastry trolley. Coinciding with the coffee, we want to say goodbye to customers with a wide selection of chocolates, bonbons, mini cakes, sugarcoated almonds, gelato, and sweets. The use of trolleys has the double benefit of gratifying the client and the waiters, who can provide a service rather than merely delivering dishes. Recent developments in cooking have directed attention onto recipes and chefs, the restaurant having taken a back seat. We want to restore all those little customs and gestures that used to be found in restaurants, but that have now been lost.

2009 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 15

Monica Onnis


Citrus fruit imitation egg Serves 8

fresh citrus fruit juice

ml

500

powder of agar agar vanilla sauce strips of candied orange rinds

g g

2 200 a.r.

(orange, mandarin, pink grapefruit, yellow grapefruit, lime)

Pour a glass (about 150 ml) of citrus fruit juice into a pan, dissolve the gelatine in this, mixing it with a small whisk, and bring to the boil keeping the flame to a minimum and stirring all the time. Having reached a boil, continue to cook over a low heat for a while (depending on the instructions given on the packet) and add the lot to the remaining juice. Pour the mixture into small silicon hemisphere moulds and place in the refrigerator for a few hours, until the citrus fruit gelatine hardens. When ready to serve, put the vanilla sauce in small concave dishes, on top of which place the citrus fruit hemisphere and finish with the candied orange rinds or mixed citrus fruits.

Pasta with oil and Parmigiano cheese

Serves 6

Lasagna fresh pasta (with eggs) extravirgin olive oil salt

g

300 a.r. a.r.

Roll out the pasta thinly as with a classic lasagna and cut into rectangles. Briefly cook it in salted boiling water, drain and cool immediately in water and ice. Let it drip and lay it out on a damp cloth on a baking-tin brushed with oil. In an oiled oven-proof dish, alternate layers of pasta with layers of cooked cream. Then cut the lasagna into portions.

Parmigiano Mousse fresh liquid cream fresh whole milk grated Parmigiano Reggiano salt

ml 200 ml 100 g 50 a.r.

Heat the cream with the milk to 60°C and melt the Parmigiano in it. Add the salt, pass through a fine sieve, pour the mixture in the siphon and load with two compressed air capsules.

Cooked cream fresh liquid cream grated Parmigiano Reggiano egg salt

Beat the eggs, add the Parmigiano and cream and beat again until you get a nice smooth mixture. Pour into two plum-cake silicon moulds of 500 ml each and have it thicken in a vapour oven for 20 minutes at 100°C. Alternatively, cook in a bain-marie in a traditional oven at 170°C for about half an hour. When cooking is finished, remove the cream from the oven and blast chill it.

Parmigiano pistachio crunch grated Parmigiano Reggiano fresh shelled pistachios

g g

100 30

Mix the cheese with the pistachio chopped not too finely, and make a thin layer on a Silpat sheet; move to the preheated 220°C oven and bake for a few minutes or until it starts to brown. Remove from the oven, let it cool, and break it into small fragments.

Assembly

When ready to serve, vapour heat the lasagna portions at 65°C for just over 5 minutes. Arrange each portion on hot plates and finish with the Parmigiano mousse sprinkled with crunch and a drizzle of oil.

ml 500 g 150 n. 3

2009 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 15

Alfredo Russo www.dolcestilnovo.com www.lavenaria.it Photos Paolo Cecchin

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CUISINE

RECIPES

FROM ICIF

Angora rabbit in Moscato vinegar sauce Serves 4

rabbit leg white onion concentrated chicken stock Moscato wine vinegar sugar fennel bay-leaf dill thyme garlic sage extra virgin olive oil salt and pepper

g 500 g 100 cl 100 cl 25 g 30 g 50 no. 2 leaves to taste to taste no. 2 cloves no. 8 leaves to taste to taste

De-bone the rabbit leg and cut it into pieces, roast in a pan with oil, thyme and bay-leaf, cook till done on a low heat, season with salt and pepper. While still hot, move into a ceramic baking dish. Slice the onion julienne and stew in extra virgin olive oil. Cut the fennel using a slicer and add it to the onion, adjust with salt and pepper. Boil the stock with the vinegar, bayleaf, thyme and sage. Cover the rabbit with part of the sour stock, pour the remaining one on the vegetables and let season. Arrange the rabbit, cut into pieces and with dill, in glass cylinders and cover with stock. Serve the vegetables aside, drained from the vinegar sauce.

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2009 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 15


Gianduja cake Serves 4

sugar chocolate cream “00” tender wheat flour hazelnut potato starch eggs butter Maraschino glucose cocoa powder salt apricot jam

g g cl g g g no. g cl g g g

150 130 5 75 60 75 8 50 2 50 3 1 to taste

For the sauce milk cream “00” flour

cl cl g

egg sugar hazelnut vanilla pod

no. g g

1 40 50 to taste

Blend 40 g of hazelnuts into a flour, add starch, cocoa, flour and salt. Whip 320 g eggs, 60 g yolks with sugar, add the sifted flours and melted butter. Pour into a cake-tin. Bake at 190°C for 25 minutes. Cool the cake on a grid and cut in halves. Separate the two disks and brush them with the glucose and Maraschino syrup previously brought to a boil. Spread the jam on one disk. Melt 100 g of chocolate, add the cream and coat the disk surface. Reassemble the cake. Whip the eggs with the sugar and add the flour, mixing carefully. Add the milk, previously brought to the boil with cream, vanilla, ground hazelnuts and cook till you have a cream. Spoon out the hazelnut cream in the plates, stain it with thinned out jam, garnish with the remaining chocolate flattened into sheets and 10 g of hazelnuts.

18 4 2

2009 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 15

ICIF Costigliole d’Asti www.icif.com Photos Marco Beltramo

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NEWS

A new format for chocolate Cioccolatitaliani by Costa Group is an innovative format recently opened in Milan by Giovanni Ferrieri. It is a cafĂŠ, pastry shop and gelato shop at the same time, with a diversified menu based on chocolate. It is the result of a team-working session gathering some leading personalities of the food sector such as Franco Costa, Costa Group's president; Paolo Barichella, expert of food design; Roberto Lobrano, gelato maker, and Silvio Bessone, chocolate maker. Furnishing enhances the communicative exigences of the brand, i.e. the choice of warm colours hinting at the world of chocolate, the use of wood for flooring, the tables and armchairs designed by Franco Costa. The structure of the premises relies on the modern concept of show-cooking: the labs are in full view and clients can see all the phases of the making of gelato, chocolate, bakery products and cuisine specialties. The stylish counter stands out at the venue entrance and it includes a space dedicated to gelato, equipped with 20 cylindrical stainless-steel tubs and two chocolate fountains; a wide showcase for product display, and a coffee area. Cioccolatitaliani is a project with the ambitious plan of expanding in the future not only in Italy, with 5 new stores, but also in some European capitals and then in America as well (www.cioccolatitaliani.it).

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2009 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 15


THREE IN ONE.

THREE FUNCTIONS, A SINGLE CABINET. CP MULTI IRINOX.

Positive, negative, chocolate and customised. With CP MULTI you’ll never let your customers down. With the combined temperature (from - 30°C to +15°C) and humidity management (from 40 to 95 RH%), you can perfectly store any creation preserving flavours, colours and organoleptic properties. Versatile, customisable and fully sanitised Irinox cabinet guarantee fast return to set temperature and the lack of temperature changes. From your wishes, the new preservation frontier.

T. +39 0438 5844 - www.irinox.com


Shape Creators.

MADE IN ITALY • For all sweet and savoury recipes • For all type of oven • Directly from shock freezer to the oven • Quality and safe materials • Perfect unmoulding • More than 300 different shapes Visit www.silikomart.com and register in the professional area.

Via Tagliamento, 78 - 30030 Mellaredo di Pianiga (VE) - Italy Tel. +39 041 5190550 Fax +39 041 5190290

SQ 026 mm 117 x 29 x h 39

PASTICCERIA INTERNAZIONALE World Wide Edition 15/2009  

Magazine of Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition in English language

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