Page 1

PA S T RY B A K E RY G E L AT O C U I S I N E

GELATO AND PASTRY RECIPES FOR ANY SEASON SAVOURY SUGGESTIONS WITH AN ITALIAN TOUCH COFFEE AND CUISINE TECHNOLOGY AND PRODUCT NEWS

issue seventeen-2010

CHIRIOTTI EDITORI

10064 PINEROLO - ITALIA - Tel. +390121393127 - Fax +390121794480 www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - info@pasticceriainternazionale.it


professional quality pastry & Gelato inGredients

from our USA Now available : llaboration with warehouse in co S RT EXPO 07087 FRENCH FOOD 0 - Union City, NJ Avenue Suite 10 100 Manhattan dExpor ts.com www.FrenchFoo

July 2010: Pastry, chocolaterie and ice-cream seminars in major US cities. Fo r m o re i n f o : Ex p o r t De p a r t m e n t AG R I L A N D - 2 7 , b o u l e va rd d ’ It a l i e 9 8 0 0 0 Mo n a c o - Te l . + 3 7 7 9 3 3 0 6 1 7 3 - Fa x + 3 7 7 9 3 1 5 0 1 2 0 e x p o r t @ a g r i l a n d . m c - w w w. a g r i l a n d . m c

w w w. a g r i m o n t a n a . i t


In this issue A question of numbers Identità London Returns with a more international taste Waiting for the WPTC in Phoenix Gelato time In praise of simplicity Amaré Recipes from the Ifse Coffee as a cooking ingredient World Pastry Cup 2011 in Lyon A step back in time al Bicerin

News A custom-tailored facility Sustainable production Sweet Sicilian heritage Expos and events in Italy 2010 Ice Art World Championship The excellence “à la française” The Italian Gelato Championship A prestigious decoration Junior World Confectionery Championship at Sigep 2011 Italian summer at the 16th Luxardo Grand Prix

Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition 10064 Pinerolo (Torino) Viale della Rimembranza 60 tel. +39 0121 393127 - fax +39 0121 794480 info@pasticceriainternazionale.it EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Livia Chiriotti SENIOR EDITOR Emilia Coccolo Chiriotti NEWS EDITORS Cristina Quaglia Milena Novarino Monica Onnis ASSISTANT EDITOR Chiara Comba TRANSLATIONS Alexander Martin MARKETING EDITOR Monica Pagliardi ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Luigi Voglino voglino@chiriottieditori.it ART DIRECTOR Studio Grafico Impagina PRINTED BY Tipografia Giuseppini Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition is happily published in Italy by Chiriotti Editori Copyright © 2010 by Chiriotti Editori All rights reserved No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior written permission from the publishing house Supplement of “Pasticceria Internazionale” n. 229 May 2010 ON OUR COVER Mojito Gelato Cocktail Emanuele Saracino

A new food grade silicone mould A sweet jewel The recipe to leaven up your business

THE BRAND NEW WEBSITE

SUBSCRIBE ON-LINE

www.pasticceriainternazionale.com


PASTRY

A QUESTION OF NUMBERS The mathematical science of confectionery has been around for centuries, as can be seen by Leonardo Di Carlo’s daily work, during which he listens to colleagues and works hard to encode every method, ingredient, and request

Ever since adolescence, Di Carlo’s CV has been a continual training ground. Class of 1974, he was basically born in a laboratory: his parents owned a pasticceria in Rome, which was sold at the start of 2000. And so, after classes, workshops and competitions,

2

Leo, a populariser by nature, with a healthy sense of irony and humour, decided to dedicate himself to consulting, which was based not only on his knowledge of shop life, but also on time dedicated to study, reading, travel, experimentation, and a comparison bet-

ween Italian colleagues and foreign ones. This requires time, making it difficult to run a workshop effectively. This is the basic choice that distinguishes Leonardo, who has an impressive past with numerous significant titles to his name, such as third place at the

2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 17


Coupe du Monde of Lyons in 2001, during which he also won the prize for best chocolate dessert, and 1st place at the UIPGC World Championship 2004. Through direct consulting and training courses, are you able to measure yourself against many colleagues: what do you feel on a professional level? Most of all, that the pastry chef wants increasingly to become a culturally prepared professional with regards ingredients, in-depth knowledge of raw materials, and recipe procedures. In short, he wants more than just the usual recipe; he wants technical knowledge too. Tell us of the most common questions. Simplicity, rationality and goodness: most colleagues require these three things to be able to take on the logistical organisation of the workshop, demotivated staff, poor technical knowledge of the product, all geared towards obtaining simple and good products that are easy and fast to make for all workers. What weaknesses do you come across most? The young, with their enthusiasm for everything related to aesthetics, tend to neglect the basics, which are a key aspect if you want to develop as a professional. Never let things go to your head and always seek to learn, no matter how old you are. Knowing how to make a good sponge cake or pastry is much more important that the beautiful artistic presentation of a dish or cake. What are your most frequent rewards? Feedback is almost always positive and usually customers call me back after a few days to tell me what happened after the consultation. The best thing they can tell me is that we hit the bull’s-eye and especially that the products presented were appreciated by the customers. Do you believe in confectionery as a science, an idea already known in the 1800s? Confectionery is based on numbers and percentages. I know there is a rule for everything, and that is why I am looking for them. It is important to know the end sweetness of a recipe, to understand its feasibility, the per-

centage of fat, eggs, yeast... everything must be weighed out at the start. Just reading a recipe you get an intuitive feel if it will turn out balanced, but you must know how to do it. After all, the simpler the recipe the more the product will be sold. So you develop the concept of recipes while clearing the myth of secret formulas, right? The recipe is secondary and is not the main part of the consultancy (you can email it). I call them technical cards because I list all details such as cooking, depending on the client's oven, average weights, duration, packaging, storage... For me the recipe is worth nothing when compared to the transmission of knowledge and the motivation of staff. Regardless of international trends, how do you see the future of the sector? I am a positive thinker, although right now we need a good dose of extra optimism. I believe that those who invest in quality raw materials and keeping up to date, in order to offer quality and original products, through testing and appropriate laboratory organization, will come out a winner. Those who seek to save, while offering a poor display, lacking any ability to generate the impulse buy, are destined to suffer because the clientele will not keep an artisan company alive on price alone. Looking ahead, what are the techniques used little today that will be able to make a difference? Surely rationalization in production, or being able to make a versatile semi-finished product. For example: I study a baked dough that I will combine with different types of fillings or toppings of different tastes. Storing it in the best hygienic conditions, helped by the technology of the cold chain, I can work quietly, offering a wide range of products and have time to experiment with new ones. Will the future of the sector see increasing synergy between sweet, cooking, and gelato: what do you envisage and how do you interpret this? Very good synergy, but we must never improvise. Each combination requires a previous study, whereby it is tested and then offered to

2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 17

3


PASTRY

desserts based on? Since I started as a pastry chef, I like to see what I can take from confectionery and place on a plate, without falling into the easy mistake of using a monoportion with the usual sauce. In terms of flavours and consistency it is important that there are at least three contrasts. For me the plate is a canvas on which the chef, like the painter, applies his imagination. I can not deny that many inspirations come to me while travelling, looking at or tasting new products.

customers, providing the right knowledge to grasp even the most delicate of details. With recipes, are you more for tradition or for a fusion of foreign cultures? Usually my recipes contain a lot of tradition and, especially when I have to present a sweet abroad, I let all my Italian culture come out. But I do not disdain a foreign recipe; I might modify it with more Italian tastes, but I am happy to make cakes of other nations in my classes: it is like giving bits of culture from another country to people who can not travel or can only take these recipes from books. What does understanding a recipe and making it your own mean for you? Having my recipe understood is one of my primary objectives. Only once it is understood can it be worked on. My mission is to convey knowledge, so every new recipe of mine becomes that of my colleagues if I am

able to adapt it to their way of working. “The true essence of knowledge, once you have it, is to convey it": Confucius and I were of like mind! What philosophy are your restaurant

What is the difference between lab and kitchen? Catering gives a more open vision: the cook has different ingredients such as oil, vinegar and olives, which in confectionery are normally used for savoury products. Not only in terms of ingredients, but also with regards presentation, plated desserts offers more possibilities. For example, for some of the desserts I use a wall tile instead of a plate, an airtight jar for a glassed sweet, a plate of

PANNA COTTA MY WAY Strawberry fresh mint & pine nut compote water g 100 caster sugar g 250 strawberries g 650 fresh mint g 12 pine nuts g 60 lemon juice g 25 Cook sugar with water at 140°C, add sliced strawberries and fresh mint leavers, stir delicately and allo to cook for approx. 10-15 minutes. Then add pine nuts and lemon juice. Keep in the refrigerator in a jam jar or in a vacuum-sealed container.

Vanilla & caramel sauce caster sugar water vanilla bean

g 250 g 200 no. 1/2

Dry cook the sugar a bit at a time, add the vanilla bean and gradually add boiling water. Put back on the stove and allow to reduce to the desired consistency. Keep in an airtight container.

Light panna cotta fresh full fat milk vanilla bean fresh single cream 35% caster sugar gelatine semi whipped cream

g 200 no. 1 g 500 g 85 g 18 g 250

Put gelatine into cold water. Heat single cream with sugar, milk and vanilla bean. add gelatine and allow to melt. At the end add semi-whipped cream. Use and refrigerate.

Lemon crunch Muscovado sugar ground toasted hazelnuts finely grated lemon zest butter flour

4

g g g g g

125 125 8 125 125

Combine all ingredients. Roll mixture between two sheets of grease proof paper. The mixture should be 3 mm thick. Bake at 150°C until dark brown. Allow to cool, then place into a chopper and chop. Keep in an airtight container in a dry place.

Assembly

Pour a layer of strawberry, fresh mint and pine nut compote into a glass, top with lemon crunch to one side. Fill with light panna cotta and vanilla caramel sauce. Decorate with a thin layer of dark chocolate and a dehydrated strawberry.

2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 17


of refractory stone that keeps the heat, and other containers with special shapes. What are your favourite ingredients? First of all olive oil, which I often use instead of butter. I also make an olive-oil based short pastry, adopting special practices such as preparing the dough between two sheets of baking paper, given that its consistency makes it much harder to work than a traditional pastry. Other ingredients that I like are dried fruit (hazelnuts, almonds) and chestnuts. In general I prefer Italian ingredients, but with a very personal touch.

“Beauty passes but taste remains, which is what makes the customer come back for more”

What are the biggest problems a chef faces in preparing a dessert? Time, which is always missing, and also space, which is usually insufficient.

Do you want to give any advice? Use high quality raw materials. If you have a basic knowledge and good raw materials you can achieve whatever you want. Clearly you also need to take care over presentation; for some this may come naturally, for others it is more difficult. Can you give us a final suggestion. I have no secret. My strength is that I love what I do. Coming back to Confucius: “If you love what you do, it will never be work”. Livia Chiriotti

TRAS... Hot whiskey with orange honey orange honey g whiskey g

150 450

Combine both ingredients and heat to 70°C, pour immediately into a glass.

Sbrisolona (crumbly cake) flour stone-ground maize cake flour caster sugar butter finely chopped almonds egg yolks baking powder grated lemon zest vanilla bean table salt

g

400

g g g g no. g g no. g

100 300 350 300 4 3 6 1 2

Combine all ingredients. The mixture should not be consistent in texture. Shape into rolls and freeze. Place in a chopper and chop evenly. Spread on steel moulds (8 cm. diametro), press gently and bake at 150°C (open valve) until golden brown.

Light chantilly cream with cacao beans and vanilla cacao beans g 125 fresh cream 35% g 550 vanilla bean no. 1 gelatine g 7 Ivoire chocolate g 375 Heat cacao beans in the oven at 150°-160°C for 10 minutes. Bring milk and vanilla bean to a boil, then incorporate the hot cacao beans and allow to infuse for approx. 10 minutes. Sieve and check the weight of the initial milk, add gelatine and pour slowly onto partially melted chocolate. Mix with a flexible spatula until mixture becomes shiny and smooth. Place in a refrigerator at +4°C. The next day place into a planetary mixer and whip gently with mixing beaters.

Espresso coffee cream fresh full fat milk espresso coffee fresh cream 35% low fat milk powder dextrose invert sugar caster gelato stabilizer

Mix and heat milk espresso coffee, cream, milk powder and dextrose. When at 40°C add remaining ingredients and cook to 85°C. Cool quickly to +4°C and place in a refrigerator for 6-12. Place in the gelato maker, then pour into steel moulds till 2 cm thick. Allow to harden in a blast chiller. Cut into 2.5x7.5 cm tectangles, insert the stick and put back in the blast chiller. Melt the dark chocolate & salted peanut coating, then coat the gelato completely. Keep at -18°C. Leonardo Di Carlo

g 1.000 g 620 g 600 g 190 g 420 g 55 g 190 g 18

www.leonardodicarlo.com

SBRISOLONA is a typical cake from North Italy, made of sugar and almonds as basic ingredients. The name describes its consistency hard and crumbly.

2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 17

5


NEWS

A CUSTOM-TAILORED FACILITY

SUSTAINABLE PRODUCTION

Placed today on a surface of 8,000 square meters in Collegno, near Torino, Quattrer was founded 50 years ago. The company is involved in the design, making and start up of pastry and gelato shops, restaurants and cafés not only in Italy, ensuring timely deliveries and skillful technical assistance. The facility houses processing and assembling rooms, training rooms for professional classes (gelato and cafeteria) a showroom, a meeting room and a technical office working with CAD design systems. Quattrer supplies technical and legal support to clients and to their architects, and highly functional designs and custom-made furniture solutions according to their requests. The range of activites goes from the simple supply of a bar unit and seats, up to complete all-inclusive solutions. Environmental respect has been confirmed throughout the decades by the commitment to chose products and production processes which could offer better performances while saving water and energy at the same time, thus minimizing the environmental footprint. For the same purpose the company works exclusively with the best refrigeration components suppliers. www.quattrer-arredamenti.it

SWEET SICILIAN HERITAGE

6

Trittico® Bio is the innovative machine by Bravo for professionals choosing natural production in respect of the principles of environmental sustainability. Trittico® Bio is the only certified machine producing gelato and pastry from fresh raw milk, therefore not depleted by industrial pasteurisation and cheaper. At the end of the pasteurisation process the machine prints the data, which can be useful for controls. www.bravo.it

Duciezio is the Sicilian confectionery and gelato Association presided over by journalist and photographer Salvatore Farina, and supported by a group of well known local pastry chefs. With the aim to promote the historical and cultural heritage of the region, they organized in April the first edition of Mostra del Dolce Siciliano (Sicilian Sweet Expo) in Randazzo, near Etna volcano, so that people could discover traditional sweets coming from all over the island. A competition among students took place too, and participants had to give their own interpretation of the typical Sicilian Cassata. A jury chaired by Milena Novarino (“Pasticceria Internazionale”) and composed by pastry chefs – Isidoro Bonarrigo, Luca Caviezel, Nuccio Daidone, Santi Palazzolo, Saretto Pappalardo and Salvatore Scarpulla – declared Claudio Anzolone of San Rocco institute, Caltanissetta, the winner. During the event, the Pupaccena Prize (Pupaccena are traditional figures of men and women made of sugar for the Day of the Dead, representing relatives who have passed away) was awarded to the four people that most helped to promote the identity, culture and image of Sicily: Luca Caviezel, for his studies about gelato science and tecnology; Giovanni Sollima, cellist and music composer; Francesco Condorelli, in memory for his nougat, and Don Santino Spartà, journalist.

2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 17


650 ml Sprays

210 ml Sprays

D22B White D22C Caramel

D23B White

D22N Chocolate

D23R Red

D23J Yellow

650 ml Spray

D23V Green

1000 ml Spray 405 ml Sprays

650 ml Spray

270 ml Spray

D01.1 Colourless Varnish

D157A Bronze

D156A D155A Silver Gold Varnishes with Metallic Effects

Net 50 gr

D44.1 22 carats Real Gold Sprinkles

D115A1 Cooler D115.1 Cooler


EVENTS

IDENTITÀ LONDON RETURNS WITH A MORE INTERNATIONAL TASTE

Identità London is back stronger than ever and concentrates on a more international assembly of the world’s most fascinating chefs. The focus of the 2010 congress – taking place in Vinopolis, Southbank, 7th and 8th June – is themed around The Luxury of Simplicity, which centers on creatively being driven from the ingredient and its seasonality. It showcases the creation of dishes using less celebrated produce that require the intuition and creativity of the chefs, as well as their skill and artistry, to elevate the flavours of each component ingredient. This reflects the international trend towards more simple and natural cuisines, with a growing emphasis on specific raw foods. The list of international chefs includes Daniel Patterson (Coi, San Francisco), Wylie Dufresne (WD50, New York), Alex Stupak (WD50, New York), David Chang (Momofuku, New York), Alvin Leung (Bo Innovation, Hong Kong), Alexandre Gauthier (La Grenouillere, Montreuil-sur-Mer, France), Heinz Beck (Apsley, London & La Pergola, Rome). Among the British chefs there are Ashley Palmer-Watts (The Fat Duck, Bray), Jason Atherton (Maze, London).

The Italian group is composed by Massimo Bottura (Osteria Francescana, Modena), Gennaro Esposito (Torre del Saracino, Naples), Davide Scabin (Combal Zero, Torino), Niko Romito (Reale, L’Aquila), Andrea Berton (Trussardi alla Scala, Milano), Enrico and Roberto Cerea (Da Vittorio, Bergamo). Founder and Italian food editor, Paolo Marchi said - who this year will be co-hosting with Tom Parker Bowles, “After the astounding success of Identità London 2009 – the first Identità venture outside Italy – I’m delighted that chefs from New York to Hong Kong are joining us to celebrate this year’s theme. This of course is underpinned by the core spirit of the congress, as an ambassadorial platform to promote the depth and diversity of Italian cuisine beyond its association with pizza and pasta”. As well as the main stage events, the venue also exhibits a selection of specialist artisan producers, showcasing the very best in Italian produce, wines and spirits. The following recipes were presented during the 2009 edition of Identità London. www.identitalondon.com

SEA BASS IN SEA SALT AND HERBS handfuls of spinach salt and freshly ground black pepper basil, picked parsley, picked rosemary leaves sage leaves sea salt

8

no.

g g g g g

4 a.r. 150 150 30 30 750

plain flour egg whites (around 6-8 eggs) yolk for brushing sea bass fillets

g

750

g 150 no. 1 no. 4

(each about g 200, of a consistent thickness, i.e. with no thinner tail parts)

knobs of butter tablespoon of olive oil

2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 17

no. no.

2 1


For the balsamic dressing tablespoons of good balsamic vinegar teaspoon of honey tablespoon of sugar juice of 1/2 lemon tablespoon of olive oil drops of Worcestershire Sauce

the lemon juice, olive oil and Worcestershire sauce. Taste and, if you think it is too sharp, add a little more sugar to taste. Keep to one side.

no. no. no.

8 1 1

no.

1

no.

2

1 Preheat the oven as high as it will go. 2 Blanch the spinach leaves in boiling salted water for the briefest time – 5-10 seconds only – then drain and squeeze out the excess water.

3 Mix the herbs together.

Put the sea salt into a food processor and crack it a little, then add the herbs and blitz until they are very finely chopped.

4 If you have a Magimix put the flour, egg whites, and the salt and herb

mixture into it, and reduce to a green dough. Otherwise, mix the flour and the salt and herb mixture well in a mixing bowl, then transfer to a clean work surface, pile up like a small mountain and make a hole in the middle. Beat the egg white lightly in a bowl, then pour it into the hole in the flour. Put in your hand and slowly and gently turn it, working in a little of the flour mix at a time, so that the egg white is absorbed gradually and forms a dough.

5 Knead the dough for 3-4 minutes. If it feels too hard as you work it, wet

7 Roll the dough out about 3 mm thick. You need to cut this into 8 rough

squares of dough – 4 to go beneath the fillets (make these about 2 cm bigger all round than the fish) and another 4 to go over the top of each fillet to enclose them completely (these top squares will need to be about 3 cm bigger all round than the fish). Each fillet will be slightly different, so use them as a guide when you are cutting out your dough.

8 Lay out the four squares of dough that will go underneath the fish and

place a fillet on top of each, skin side facing upwards then brush the edges with egg wash and put the top square on top. Seal tightly and trim the edges neatly. Make sure there are no holes in the dough; if there are any, take a piece of the dough trimmings, wet it with water and use it to patch the hole. Brush with more egg yolk.

9 Line a flat ovenproof tray with baking paper, put the sea bass ‘parcels’ on it and place in the preheated oven. The length of cooking time will depend entirely on the thickness of the fish, so start testing after about 7 minutes (but you might need up to 10 minutes or so more). Take one of the sea bass out – the crust will now be golden and hard – and, with a sharp knife, cut around three sides, so you can lift up the crust like a lid, and check the fish inside. Press your finger against the fillet: if it is soft, then it is ready; if the flesh of the fish is resistant, then replace your ‘lid’ and put back in the oven. Test again after a couple of minutes or so. 10 When the sea bass is ready, take it out of the oven and leave it in its

crust, while you warm up the spinach in a saucepan with the butter and the olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Arrange in the middle of your plates.

your hands, which should help to loosen it. The dough needs to be firm and elastic enough to enclose the fish without breaking but not too loose, otherwise when it cooks it will release too much moisture, and the fish won’t cook properly. Wrap the dough in cling film and keep to one side.

11 With a knife, cut the crusts all the way round and lift off the tops. With a spatula, lift out the fish and put on top of the spinach. Finish with the balsamic dressing and serve.

honey and sugar, and leave in a warm place (but not on the hob), so that the honey and sugar can dissolve into the vinegar. When they have, add

Giorgio Locatelli Locanda Locatelli, London www.locandalocatelli.com

6 Make the balsamic dressing: put the balsamic vinegar in a bowl, add the

2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 17

9


EVENTS

PRIPRIOCA SCENTED MILK PUDDING WITH LIME RAVIOLI AND OURO BANANA gelatine banana ouro finely sliced in rings

10 serves

Priprioca caramel sugar water priprioca essence

g 320 ml 80 ml 20

Make a caramel with the sugar at approximately 142ºC. Add the water and the priprioca essence.

Priprioca pudding pasteurized egg yolk sugar milk cream milk sheets of gelatin

g 80 g 60 ml 250 ml 250 no. 2

Warm the milk and cream together (not boiling). Whisk the yolks with sugar until they are pale yellow. Hydrate the sheets of gelatin and dissolve them in the milk previously heated. Mix the milk with the yolks, gently, and strain. Cover the bottom of a 30 ml spherical silicon form with caramel. Put the liquid over the caramel and bake it in the steam oven, at 90°C from 10 to 12 minutes.

Custard milk wheat flour sugar pasteurized egg yolks

ml 200 g 8 g 40 g 40

Whisk the egg yolks, sugar and flour in a bowl. Boil the milk. Add the milk to the yolks slowly while stirring, to temper the eggs. Strain the mixture and cook it on low heat, stirring constantly for about 5 minutes. Transfer it from the heat to a bowl and cool it in an ice bain-marie. Cover the cream with a plastic film, placing it against the surface, so it won't form a crust.

Lemon and banana ouro raviolis sugar g 175 water ml 175 lemon juice ml 100 agar agar g 2

g

20

Boil all the ingredients, with the exception of gelatine and banana. Add the hydrated gelatine. Put the gelatine on a tray, with a thickness of approximately 2 mm. Cut the gelatines with a round ring of 5 cm in diameter.

Mount the raviolis following the sequence a layer of gelatine a drop of custard 3 thin bananas another layer of gelatine Sugar syrup to the candied lemon zest sugar g 500 water ml 500 Boil the ingredients to dissolve the sugar.

White kikurage mushrooms white kikurage mushrooms

no.1 unit

Rehydrate the mushrooms in water for a day. Cook in 500 ml of water and add another 500 g of sugar.

Candied julienne lemon zest

Blanch the lemon zests quickly in boiling water and cool it in icy water. Repeat this procedure 3 times. Heat the sugar syrup and add the blanched zests.

Plating

With the help of a sac-à-poche, finish the raviolis with a drop of custard and 2 lemon zests. Paint the kikurages with some gold powder, using a brush. In a slate of 25x10 cm, arrange the pudding on the left side. Put the ravioli in the center and place a kikurage on the other side. Finish with some priprioca caramel. Alex Atala DOM, São Paulo, Brazil www.domrestaurante.com.br

PRIPRIOCA is a plant found in the Brazilian rainforest. Its essential oils have been used by indigenous people for many centuries and recently by the cosmetic industry. Atala has introduced it in gastronomy after researches, in order to stimulate local farmers and increase the selection of available wild food. BANANA OURO is a Brazilian variety of the tropical fruit, which is very small (max 10 cm) and sweet. It has a cylindrical shape and a golden yellow skin.

KIKURAGE MUSHROOMS grow on trees in wet tropical climates. The word kikurage means “wooden ear”, which comes from the shape of the mushroom, and also “wooden jellyfish”, because of its texture. It is highly appreciated in Japan. Rich of vitamins, it is known for “cleansing” the body, preventing some diseases (high blood pressure, hardening of the arteries, ulcers, etc.) and for skin care treatments.

10

2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 17


O

M FIV

E

FR

Approved Event

C

O

T

S

ER Y U B P TO NTINEN

S


EVENTS

CARAMELIA CHOCOLATE MOUSSE Basic custard double cream milk yolk sugar

g g g g

150 150 60 30

Boil milk and cream in a pan. Put sugar and yolk in a bowl, and whisk ‘till the sugar dissolves. Pour the boiling milk mix on the yolks and put it aside.

Chocolate mousse basic custard Caramelia chocolate 34% leaves of gelatine whipped cream

g 355 g 660 no. 5 g 530

Take the warm basic custard and dissolve the softened gelatine in it. Melt the chocolate on a water bath. Gently pour the custard on the chocolate and emulsify with a hand blender. When the mix reaches 40°-45°C, add the semi whipped cream and pipe in the mould. Press the soft centre in the middle and make sure that the base is sealed. Freeze in the blast chiller.

Soft centre water milk trimoline chocolate 70% cocoa powder black raspberry liquor

g g g g g g

400 350 180 125 100 100

Sacher sponge chocolate 70% butter yolks whites sugar dextrose soft butter grounded almond

g g g g g g g g

750 500 360 550 300 250 275 100

Melt chocolate to 33°C and mix butter and yolks. Make a meringue using sugar and dextrose. Fold the meringue in the chocolate mix. Finally fold in the flour and almonds. Bake at 230°C for 5 to 7 minutes, depending on the size of the mould.

Sacher glaze water sugar chocolate 70%

g g g

100 100 100

Put sugar and water in a pan and bring to boil; then pour it on the chocolate and blitz with a hand blender taking care not to incorporate more air in it.

Chocolate sorbet milk dextrose atomised glucose dark chocolate 70% milk chocolate 34%

ml1.300 g 50 g 50 g 400 g 200

Put milk, water and trimoline in a pan and bring to a boil. Pour it on top of the chocolate and cocoa powder mix till the chocolate is melted and pass it through the sieve. Add the liquor and freeze in the moulds.

Put milk and dextrose and atomised glucose in a pan and bring to boil. Pour it on the chocolate and mix well. Let it chill, then freeze in the Paco Jet and churn once frozen.

Apricot puree apricot puree sugar agar agar

Chocolate spray for the mousse

kg g g

1 75 10

Equal quantity of dark chocolate 70% and cocoa butter. Melt together and put it in a gun and spray. Ideal temperature is 40°C.

Bring the puree to a boil in a pan. Mix sugar and agar agar, pour it on the puree whisking continuously. Bring back to a boil, put it on a tray and chill. Once set blitz in a thermo and store in a piping bag.

Angela Hartnett www.angelahartnett.co.uk Photos Brambilla - Serrani

AGAR AGAR is a gelatinous substance derived from red algae, primarily Gelidium amansii, which is used as an ingredient in desserts throughout Asia. It can be also used as a vegetarian gelatin substitute, a thickener for soups, in jellies, gelato and Japanese desserts such as anmitsu.

12

2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 17


EVENTS

Waiting for the

WPTC IN PHOENIX The World Pastry Team Championship has been created by Carymax LCC to bring together the most talented pastry chefs in the world The World Pastry Forum and The 2010 Amoretti World Pastry Team Championship will take place June 30 through July 6 at the JW Marriott Desert Ridge Resort and Spa in Phoenix, AZ, USA. At the Forum (June 30 - July 4), students of the pastry arts can take demo or hands-on classes with renowned pastry chefs, including Nicholas Lodge, Stephane Glacier M.O.F., Stéphane Tréand M.O.F., Ciril Hitz, Biagio Settepani, En Ming Hsu, Shirley Coriher, Jimmy MacMillan, Jean Marie Auboine, Donald Wressell, and David Funaro.

The 2010 Amoretti World Pastry Team Championship, which is presented in alternate (even-numbered) years, will take place July 5 and 6. It will feature eight teams comprised of three pastry chefs each from Denmark, Great Britain, Italy, Japan, Mexico, Singapore, South Korea and the United States. Principal sponsors for this event, besides Amoretti are Godiva, Felchlin Chocolate, Guittard Chocolates, Nielsen - Massey Vanillas, Swiss Chalet Fine Foods, Pernigotti, Albert Uster Imports, Taylor, Spring, and many others. www.PastryChampionship.com

PRESENTING TEAM ITALY With the tecnical support of team manager Iginio Massari, the supervision of Accademia Maestri Pasticceri Italiani, the organization and media sponsorship of Cast Alimenti school and “Pasticceria Internazionale”, Team Italy is working hard for the event. Its members are Diego Crosara (tasting), Davide Malizia (sugar) and Fabrizio Galla (chocolate). www.nazionaleitalianapasticceri.it

14

2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 17


a Diego Crosar

In 1980 he took a diploma at the pastry school of Cividale del Friuli. From 1981 to 1984 he attended several specialization courses with important professionals in Italy and abroad, and then he worked for many years (1981-2007) in the pastry lab Al Portego in Valdagno, near Vicenza. In October 1992 he cooperated as a member of the Italian pastry-chefs team for the celebration of the 50th anniversary of America's discovery, in San Francisco, with Gary Rulli. Since 2004 he has been a teacher at CastAlimenti school, Dolce & Salato, Artedolce, and also at professional courses organized by local chef associations. From 1995 to 2000 he was a member of the Veneto Region Team; from 2000 to 2008 he was the pastry chef of the Italian Chefs team. Since 2000 he has taken part to several international competitions, always obtaining good results. In 2004 he was awarded a gold medal at the European Championship in Stuttgart; in 2006 he won a silver medal at the Cuisine and Pastry Olympics in Erfurt, while in 2006 he got a gold medal and the title of World Champion for pastry at the Culinary World Cup in Luxembourg. www.diegocrosara.it

ia Davide Maliz

Born in Rome but of Sicilian origins, he attended the Artusi hotel and catering school in Rome, taking a full marks diploma. Meanwhile his passion for artistic sugar and pastry grew and he decides to develop it at top level starting to work in prestigious hotels of the city, like Exsedra and Grand Hotel St. Regis. His training started through professional schools in Italy and abroad. In 2005 he won the World Championship in Luxembourg with 4 gold medals and a special mention for the highest score obtained in the artistic category; in 2008 he won the International Championship in Stuttgart (International Cooking Competition Intergastra), with 6 gold medals for the highest score in artistic category and the absolute prize at Culinary Trophy. In 2008 he won the only Italian gold medal at the Erfurt Olympics in the artistic pastry category. www.davidemalizia.com

a Fabrizio Gall After several experiences in pastry shops and restaurants in Italy, including the one managed by his family, he opened his own pastry lab specialized in the production of plated desserts and chocolate. He constantly increases his experience in the sector, in particular in chocolate, thanks to contacts with the most important Italian pastrychefs urging him to participate to national and international competitions. He obtained good results, such as the second place at the World Chocolate Masters in Paris, 2005. Furthermore, he was a member of the Italian team which came out third at the Coupe du Monde de la P창tisserie in Lyon, in January 2007. He's member of the AMPI, Accademia Maestri Pasticceri Italiani. www.fabriziogalla.it

2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 17

15


EVENTS

ri Ig inio Massa

Team Manager

He is the most popular Italian confectioner in the world. He is the owner of the Veneto pastry store in Brescia and he was the first Italian to be admitted in Relais Desserts International association. Trainer and president of the Italian team who

pani Biag io Sette

Team Manager

& Judge

Biagio Settepani began his career at the age of 13 in a small pastry store in Brooklyn, New York, spending his next few years learning as much as he could. At the age of 21 he took over the reins of Bruno Bakerycafé in New York. Since then his dedication to excellence has brought him around the world in serch of knowledge. He has competed nationally and internationally for over a

won the World Pastry Cup in Lyon in 1997 and trainer of the Pastry World Champions UIPGC 2004, founder of the Accademia Maestri Pasticceri Italiani and of Cast Alimenti school, he also owns the restaurant Carlo Magno in Collebeato (Brescia). He was proclaimed confectioner of the year 1999-2000, pastry chef of the decade in 2003 and won many awards thorough the years. Consultant in the alimentary field, he is also the author of some professional books. www.pasticceria-veneto.it

decade, winning several medals and numerous accolades. He partecipated several times to the NPTC, in Beaver Creek and Las Vegas, and he is now a teacher of the World Pastry Forum. In 2001 he became a CMB (Certified Master Baker). Now he runs two pastry shops in Staten Island and one in Manhattan, New York, with his family. He shares his knowledge by teaching at various schools to the new generations of pastry chefs. He is also a protagonist in the book “Sweet Sensations of Sicily”, by Salvatore Farina. As the most known Italian professional in the States, he is now the President and coach of Team Italy. www.brunobakery.com

TEAM ITALY THANKS ITS SPONSORS

16

2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 17


GELATO TIME

Photos Bononi By courtesy of Carpigiani

A DELICIOUS WAY TO WISH YOU A WONDERFUL SUMMER, REMINDING YOU THAT GELATO IS A TASTY AND COMPLETE FOOD ALL YEAR LONG

2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 17

17


GELATO

WHEN

MOJITO BECOMES GELATO Mojito is a long alcoholic drink that has the colour of the sun, created to quench your thirst in the shade of a palm tree; it should be sipped to the rhythm of a Caribbean song. The drink comes from Cuba and its name comes from the word voodoo mojo, meaning spell. Mojito therefore means ‘a small spell’. The ingredients are mint, rum, brown sugar cane, lime and sparkling water (or soda). It is served cold and has a pungent taste due to the combination of fresh mint and the strong taste of rum. In the absence of original limes, a small green lime will do. Many use crushed ice, but this tends to melt too quickly so I prefer cubes. Although the original recipe includes white rum, a better variant is dark rum, which is more fragrant and stronger on the palate.

To make this little spell even more delightful, I recommend a Mojito flavoured gelato cocktail which can be served with the Mojito cocktail itself. Presentation is crucial in creating interest, which is why I suggest placing the gelato on a trasparent sugar disk, on top of the cocktail in the classic glass tumbler. Another possible presentation is to have two similar small glasses of different size, the smaller one being for the gelato. It is important to pay a lot of attention to the presentation of the tray in the display cabinet. Decorations made with slices of lime, brown cane sugar and mint leaves can be enriched with sugar cup molds, suggesting the idea of the original cocktail to those who only want a gelato.

MOJITO GELATO COCKTAIL water cocktail base sugar mint paste rum acidifier lime juice

g 1.000 g 150 g 230 g 30 g 150 g 10 g 50 Emanuele Saracino www.saracinogelati.com

18

2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 17


GELATO

CRUNCHY COLD VANILLA AND CHOCOLATE GELATO BISCUIT Cream semifreddo biscuit cream Sarfred* vanilla paste

g 1.000 g 200 g 20

Mix the Sarfred with the cream for 2 minutes, add the Ovoplus and beat the lot. Lastly, add the vanilla paste and mix.

Chocolate semifreddo biscuit cream Sarfred* Ovoplus* chocolate paste

g 1.000 g 200 g 100 g 150

Mix the Sarfred with the cream for 2 minutes, add the Ovoplus and beat the lot. Lastly, add the chocolate paste and mix. *Saracino products

Assembly

On the base of the mould place the biscuit and combine the layer of chocolate semifreddo with the vanilla one. Close with the biscuit and cool. Demould, dunk into the fondant chocolate and then into the crushed cocoa macaroons. On the other side of the biscuit make chocolate decorations.

Emanuele Saracino www.saracinogelati.com

BAHARIA GELATO CUP pistachio preserve chocolate and raspberry preserve crunchy wafer vanilla cream gelato raspberry and wild strawberry gelato pistachio gelato cream Assembly

Distribute on the base of the cup the pistachio preserve and proceed with one layer of cream, raspberry and chocolate preserve, one layer of cream, crunchy wafer, and cover with the three balls of gelato. Finally garnish with cream, fresh fruit and soft fruit coulis. Totuccio Di Marco Bar Ester, Bagheria Photo Salvatore Farina www.barester.it

20

2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 17


NEWS

EXPOS AND EVENTS IN ITALY The next edition of MACEF AUTUMN, the international home show, will be held from 9 to 12 September in Milan. www.macef.it Gelato, confectionery, chocolate and artisan food will be on stage at AGRO.GE.PA.CIOK. in Galatina, near Lecce, in October 9 - 12. www.agrogepaciok.it EUROCHOCOLATE PERUGIA, the international chocolate exhibition – www.eurochocolate.com –, will take place in Perugia in October, from 15 to 24, while CIOCOFANTASY, the first chocolate festival in Genova inspired by the popular novel and movie “The Wizard of Oz”, is scheduled in October 23 and 24, with the support of chocolate maker Antonio Le Rose. PA.BO.GEL. is the international expo for bakery, confectionery, gelato making, etc., taking place in Rome, October 16 - 19. www.pabogelexpo.com Torino will host SALONE DEL GUSTO, the biennal event which pays homage to the world of food and wines, in October 21-25. In the same days farmers, cooks, fishermen, academics, breeders, producers, etc. from the five continents will meet on the occasion of TERRA MADRE. www.salonedelgusto.com - www.terramadre.info

Milano will host AB.TECH. EXPO, – www.abtechexpo.it – the international baking and technology exhibition for bakery, pastry and confectionery, October 23 - 27, while a few days later espresso coffee will be in the spotlight at the 5th edition of the TRIESTESPRESSO expo, from 28 to 30 October in Trieste. www.triestespresso.it The 2010 edition of CIOCCOSHOW La Magia del Cioccolato, the magic of chocolate, is back in November, from 17 to 21, in Bologna. www.cioccoshow.it Longarone will host MIG, the international meeting for gelato makers, from 28th November to 1st December (www.mostradelgelato.com). Gelato, together with confectionery and bakery production, will be on show at SIGEP in Rimini, from 22 to 26 January 2011 (www.sigep.it).

2010 ICE ART WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP Ice carving activities and competitions have grown in popularity and since the 1988 Calgary Winter Olympic Games, there has been the inclusion of Olympic Ice Art Championships as part of the cultural activities and Olympic Art Festivals. With participating teams from different countries, these championships share the same objectives as the Olympic Winter Games. During the 2010 Vancouver Olympic Winter Games in Canada, the 2010 Ice Art World Championship took place in Richmond, British Columbia. The competition lasted two days and Usa won, followed by two Japanese teams. The member of the Italian team – Amelio Mazzella di Regnella and Fabio Momolo – came out fourth. The theme they chose was Hope or Dream, inspired to the theory of Pangea (i.e. the unique supercontinent that existed about 250 million years ago, before the component continents were separated into their current configuration). The first day they were required to carve 12 ice blocks (1.5 tons) to obtain a monumental sculpture, which represented “five eggs – they explained – as symbols of purity, beauty and hope, with five ice ‘children’ inside. Each of them represented one continent of the five Olympic rings, and they were all supported by a paper roll with the engraved map of the beginning of the world, where we all hope some day to return to live together in peace”. The second day teams had two hours of time to carve another sculpture inspired to their chosen theme. The 2010 edition was also an important meeeting for the ice carving associations from all over the world, aiming at coming together in a unique federation. Their purpose is the official recognition by the CIO (Comité International Olympique) in order to participate to the 2014 Olympic Winter Games in Sochi, Russia. www.icegallery.it

EXCELLENCE “À LA FRANÇAISE” An ambassador of French culinary professions and exclusive gourmet products, Fauchon inaugurated in January a concept store and restaurant in Casablanca, Morocco, i.e. the first one in the North African area. Fauchon Paris - Le Café is placed in the heart of Anfa's quarter, with the new graphical and architectural codes of the brand and the internal fittings by Costa Group. The pure Parisian-style 1.200 m2 shop includes a bakery-patisserie zone, with a counter for horizontal display standing out with its top in white corian and a golden perimetrical coating. In the back counter the products seems suspended thanks to special shelves in polished embossed glass. Moreover, two refrigerated showcases for macarons have been expressly designed, with a golden coating and the top in white corian. The whole zone is towered by a ceiling with irregular vaults. The atmosphere recreates the luxury of a jeweller’s shop, because of both the golden color and the way to display products. Fauchon’s colors appear in the self service and in the chocolate areas: furniture changes from black to white, matching with the floors and ceilings; the refrigerated chocolate showcase made of fuchsia corian show products in scenographical crystal drawers. The café zone is carved in a silver monobloc which seems separated from the selfservice zone by a fuchsia glass wall. The lounge, restaurant and terrace can seat 126 people. www.costagroup.net

22

2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 17


Made in italy

TeChnologiCal deVelopmenT - waTer and energy SaVing

deSign realiZaTion STarT-up

coffee-bars, ice-cream parlors, pastry-shops, restaurants... in Italy and in all countries CEE

Today our specific business is the design and manufacture of furniture for coffee-bars, restaurants, ice-cream parlors, pastry-shops. We supply technical and legal support to our clients and to their architects, and according to their requests we produce one or more highly functional designs, always looking out for a custom-made furniture solution. Our range of activity goes from the simple supply of a bar unit and seatings, up to complete all-inclusive solutions.

www.quattrer-arredamenti.it

VISIT

OUR

WEBSITE

OR

COME

TO

VISIT

Show-room - ClaSSroomS - offiCe - woodworking Q.F.A. srl - VIA SPAGNA 4 - COLLEGNO (TO) - tel. +39.011.733.109 / 455.74.14 - info@quattrer-arredamenti.it


CHOCOLATE

IN PRAISE OF SIMPLICITY “A cake must be a temptation": with this premise, Graziano Giovannini of Montecatini Terme, near Pistoia, presents some cakes from his daily repertoire, which thanks to their simplicity and neatness make you want to eat even the photograph. “They are not modern cakes,” specifies the renowned Tuscan confectioner in the humble tone that is his hallmark, “I always use traditional chantilly cream in various flavours and I do not use special biscuits; instead I prefer a good sponge that has been soaked without too strong a flavour, in keeping with our traditions."

Graziano Giovannini in his lab in Montecatini Terme. A large chocolate flower embellishes this cake made using sponge soaked in Grand Marnier, with chocolate bavaroise filling, with praline almonds and pine kernels all around.

24

2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 17


THE AUTUMN FEEL OF THIS CAKE COMES FROM THE CHOCOLATE

SPONGE SOAKED IN LIGHT RUM AND A CUP OF COFFEE, WITH

CHOCOLATE CHANTILLY CREAM.

FINISH WITH MERINGUE MUSHRO-

OMS AND OTHER DECORATIONS AT WILL.

2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 17

25


CHOCOLATE

CROCCANTINO AL RUM USES A BASE OF CHOCOLATE SPONGE SOAKED IN RUM, CHOCOLATE GANACHE AND CHOPPED CHOCOLATE FILLING, CARAMEL CHOCOLATE COVERING AND CRUSHED HAZELNUT TOPPING. (PHOTOS GIANCARLO BONONI)

26

2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 17


SELMI SRL Via Statale,151 - 12069 Santa Vittoria d’Alba (CN) Tel. +39.0172.479273/75 (r.a.) - Fax +39.0172.477814 www.selmi-group.it - info@selmi-group.it


NEWS

THE ITALIAN GELATO CHAMPIONSHIP

A PRESTIGIOUS DECORATION

Sigep 2011 will be the stage of the Italian Gelato Championship, whose contestants will be individual gelato makers pointed out by the most important Italian associations, and they will be judged by an international jury. The winner will be the captain of the Italian team competing in the Gelato World Cup 2012. The competition is part of a schedule connected with the international event organized by Rimini Fiera and CoGel-Fipe Confcommercio. Some World Cup Clubs are set up in various countries, in order to support the qualitative standard of the event, and the teams from Canada, Peru, Mexico, China, England and Turkey have already begun their training. A new test concerning savoury gelato has been added to the competition rules and each team will also include a chef. The international competition is biennial and is open to 10 teams; the jury includes the presidents of each team (with the right to vote) and is presided by a member of the organization (without any right to vote). The regulations include the making of decorated cups for table service, gelato cakes, decorated tubs, gelato cones, and ice, gelato and chocolate pièces. www.coppamondogelateria.it - www.sigep.it

The grade of Chevalier dans l’Ordre de la Légion d’Honneur (Knight of National Order of the Legion of Honour) has been awarded to Emilia Coccolo Chiriotti, founder and director of the professional magazine “Pasticceria Internazionale”. A letter signed by Nicolas Sarkozy, the President of the French Republic, announced the prestigious decoration, which is the highest in France, as a reward for “the quality of her services rendered to France and her expressed devotion”. The president’s words underline the importance of her work in the field of professional publishing, which aims at improving the artisan quality of confectionery. Mrs. Chiriotti started off in 1978, the year of the foundation of the magazine, driven by her passion for the pastry world and professional competitions such as the World Pastry Cup, which she has supported since the first edition together with MOF Gabriel Paillasson, the founder of the event.

JUNIOR WORLD CONFECTIONERY CHAMPIONSHIP AT SIGEP 2011 A new international event will take place in Rimini during Sigep, from 22 to 26 January 2011. The World Confectionery Championship reserved for under-23 year old young professionals is organized by Rimini Fiera along with three confectionery experts, such as Livia Chiriotti, Iginio Massari and Roberto Rinaldini, who will be the chairman. The contestants will be young pastry chefs from ten countries. Each team will be made up of two members, a captain and a team manager. The event will be coordinated by a Development Committee whose members, as well as Rimini Fiera, are Accademia Maestri Pasticceri Italiani (Academy of Master Confectioners), “Pasticceria Internazionale” magazine, Conpait association and Cast Alimenti school. The panel of judges will be chaired by Academy chairman Giovanni Pina, and completed by the team managers and captains of the individual teams, as well as four internationally famous pastry chefs. An overall total of 26 judges, with Honorary chairman Iginio Massari. www.sigep.it

ITALIAN SUMMER AT THE 16TH LUXARDO GRAND PRIX Akasaki Tetsuro is the Japanese pastry chef who won the last edition of the Luxardo Grand Prix. His pétits gâteaux and artistic pièce were inspired to the theme Italian Summer, and the ingredients included Maraschino and Limoncello Luxardo. This competition takes place every year in Tokyo and involves Japanese pastry chefs. Only five of them take part in the final trial and the winner is invited at Sigep each January, where he presents his sugar pièce and is awarded a gold medal. Luxardo Grand Prix was invented by the Italian company in order to discover young and talented Japanese pastry chefs. Now it is recognized as a one of the best professional opportunities in Japan for young professionals wishing to improve their careers and obtain international visibility. www.luxardo.it Akasaki Tetsuro, the winner of the 16th edition of the Luxardo Grand Prix, was awarded a gold medal by Matteo Luxardo last January, at Sigep.

28

Tetsuro’s pétits gâteaux and artistic pièce were inspired to the theme Italian Summer.

2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 17


RECIPES

AMARÉ For 4 cakes, diameter 16 cm, h 4 cm

Components gioconda biscuit cherry jam for the interior milk chocolate 33% custard rice mousse rice cooked in milk TOTAL WEIGHT

g g g g g kg

750 493 596 972 606 3.42

Gioconda biscuit almond TPT flour eggs fresh butter pasteurized whites sugar

g g g g g g

310 50 210 30 125 25

Sift the flour with the TPT and begin to beat it in the mixing bowl, gradually adding the eggs. Add the melted butter and lastly the whipped egg whites. For the normal sponge cake, bake in a ventilated oven at 200°C; for the sheet type, bake in a ventilated oven 250°C for about 6 minutes, valve closed.

Rice cooked in milk fresh milk sugar fresh butter salt vanilla powder polished rice grated orange peel

Cherry jam black cherry pulp sugar pectin Titanium gelatin (thickener 80 Bloom) water

g g g

400 80 1

g g

2 10

Heat the pulp to 40°C and add sugar mixed with pectin; bring to a simmer, add gelatin dissolved in its water, emulsify and pour immediately.

Milk chocolate 33% custard custard base Titanium gelatin (thickener 80 Bloom) water milk chocolate 33% fresh cream 35%

g

200

g g g g

6 30 160 200

Warm the custard base to 35°C, add the melted chocolate at 40°C and gelatin dissolved in its water. Emulsify and lighten with the single cream.

Rice mousse g g g g g g g

300 60 30 2 4 200 10

Weigh all the ingredients except the rice, put them in a copper pot and bring to a boil; add the rice, stirring thoroughly, reduce heat and cook until the liquids are completely absorbed.

cooked rice custard base Titanium gelatin (thickener 80 Bloom) water fresh cream

g g

350 180

g g g

7 35 400

Mix the rice and the custard; warm to 30°C; add the gelatine dissolved in its water and lighten with the cream. Pour immediately.

Assembly

Start by cooking the rice and let it cool. Prepare the cherry jam and pour into steel containers that are smaller than the final cake. Blast chill and pour the milk chocolate custard over top, insert the sponge and blast chill again. This cake is assembled in reverse order in 16 cm diameter molds, 4 cm high, on a sheet of Moplefan. Pour the rice mousse on the base, insert the frozen interior and level out well. Blast chill immediately and store until ready to serve. Demold, glaze with neutral icing and decorate as in the photo. Luca Mannori Prato www.mannoriluca.com Photo Bononi

2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 17

29


CUISINE

RECIPES FROM THE IFSE RISOTTO WITH RED CHICORY FROM TREVISO AND ASIAGO CHEESE vegetable broth Carnaroli rice red radicchio di Treviso red wine Parmigiano Reggiano cheese extra virgin olive oil shallot Asiago cheese marjoram sprigs garlic clove bayleaf

g 2.000 g 280 g 200 g 80 g 40 g 10 g 20 g 120 no. 2 no. 1 no. 1

Remove the radicchio outer leaves, rinse it carefully in cold and running water and cut the leaves into a thin julienne. In a sauté pan, sweat the thinly sliced shallot in extra virgin olive oil, with the chopped marjoram and a garlic clove; add the radicchio and stew on a low heat for a few minutes. Wet with vegetable broth and cook till the leaves turn tender; season with salt and pepper. In a large saucepan, melt 20 g of butter in 10 g of extra virgin olive oil; add the rice, the bayleaf and toast. Deglaze with red wine and let it evaporate completely, then keep cooking the rice as per a classical risotto. When the rice is done by 3/4 add the stewed radicchio, finish cooking and season with sal and pepper. Take the rice off the heat and stir in the remaining remaining butter; add the diced Asiago cheese and the grated Parmigiano Reggiano, cover with a lid, let sit for 1 minute and serve. IFSE - Italian Food Style Education Piobesi Torinese www.ifse.it Photo by Marco Beltramo

ASIAGO CHEESE

is an Italian cheese with different textures, according to its aging (from smooth for the fresh Asiago Pressato, to a crumbly texture for the Asiago d'Allevo). The aged cheese is often grated in salads, soups, pastas, and sauces, while the fresh one is sliced to prepare sandwiches; it can also be melted on a variety of dishes. It has a protected designation of origin (Denominazione di Origine Protetta or DOP) and the only “official” Asiago is produced in the Alpine area of the town of Asiago, province of Vicenza, in the Veneto region, and now it is also made in the Alpine region of the Province of Trento.

30

RADICCHIO

is a leaf chicory (Cichorium intybus, Asteraceae). It is grown as a leaf vegetable which usually has white-veined red leaves and a bitter and spicy taste, which mellows when it is grilled or roasted. The varieties are named after the areas where they originate. Radicchio Rosso di Treviso comes in two varieties: Precoce, which comes first and has fleshy red leaves with white ribs that form a compact bunch, and Tardivo, which has more pronounced ribs and splayed leaves. Both now enjoy IGP (Indicazione Geografica Protetta) status, which means that they can only be sold as such if they are produced around Treviso, in Veneto region, under the supervision of the Consorzio Radicchio di Treviso.

2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 17


2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 17

31


CUISINE

COFFEE

AS A COOKING INGREDIENT Capicollo of pork braised in its own jus coffee-scented pork consommé pork capicollo Pinot Noir wine pork bones (preferably using the meaty bits)

no. dl

1 2

kg

3

Aromatic pork garnish for pork soup carrots no. 3 celery stalks no. 2 leeks no. 1 white onion no. 1 cloves halved ripe tomatoes no. 3 parsley stems bay leaf no. 1 toasted coffee beans no. 10 Aromatic pork jus shallots head of garlic Golden Delicious apples

no. no. no.

8 1 2

sprig of lemon thyme sprig of rosemary veal base shallot strips marinated in Barolo vinegar grated lemon rind Maldon salt salad

1 1

(parsley, caraway, corn salad, wild mint, spinach buds and "horned" violet flowers). Prepare a savoury broth with 1 kg of pork bones, previously scalded, and aromatic garnish. Clarify when ready. Infuse 100 g of consommé with the coffee for a few minutes. Then move to the preparation of the pork jus, caramelising the remaining 2 kg of bones cut into cubes the same size, then the aromatic garnish and end with brown veal base and ice. Cover and cook in a low oven for 4 hours and then blend. Secure the capicollo with kitchen twine, season and fry in olive oil and remove excess oil, then add the wine and finally the pork jus. Bake the capicollo in an oven at 110°C for 5 hours until the meat is tender and the sauce syrupy. Dress a slice of capicollo glazed in its jus in a case, slowly pour on the consommé with coffee and end with a few crystals of salt, pickled shallots, lemon and salad.

CAPICOLLO (or capocollo or coppa) is a traditional Italian dry-cured sausage made from pork shoulder or neck. Meats are salted and massaged and enriched with spices and aromatic herbs. The Neapolitan Italian spelling, Capocollo, is derived from Latin, caput collum.

32

no. no.

2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 17


CUISINE

Iced coconut and tapioca soup with coffee gelato and grilled banana Coconut soup coconut milk fresh cream sugar pilè ice tapioca pearls sprig of rosemary banana brown sugar

g g g g

200 200 50 50

n. n a.r.

1 1

g g g no. g

200 200 125 5 200 a.r.

Prepare the coffee gelato pasteurizing egg yolks, sugar, cream and milk. Add the coffee and put in a Paco-Jet glass. Freeze. Cook the tapioca pearls in plenty of water and rosemary until soft and transparent. Refrigerate. Cut the banana horizontally, pass it in brown sugar and grill immediately. Whip the coconut soup when mixing all ingredients in the blender.

Assembly

Mix the tapioca with a little coconut soup and place it in the centre of a holster. Put the banana in the middle and end with a few dumplings of ice cream and some praliné cereals.

Coffee gelato fresh milk fresh cream sugar egg yolks espresso coffee praliné cereals

34

2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 17

Stefano Baiocco Hotel Restaurant Villa Feltrinelli Gargnano, Brescia www.villafeltrinelli.com Photo Studio Verde


Lamb marinated in coffee, and corn and herb ragout Marinated lamb lamb chops lamb sirloin hot coffee juniper

Coffee sauce with xanthan gum espresso coffee g xanthan gum g

100 1

Add the xanthan gum to the hot coffee and mix with a whisk, making it thicken. Store for the preparation of the lamb.

Clean the lamb ribs and sirloin, then dry with a dry cloth. Lay them in a steel container with high edges, add the spices and the coffee still warm until it covers the meat. Cool and refrigerate for 24 hours. Drain and dry with paper towels, put under vacuum and refrigerate.

Corn ragout minced shallot butter canned corn white wine cream gravy salt pepper Heat the butter in a saucepan, add the shallots and cook for 2 minutes. Add the corn, drizzle with white wine, cover with the cream and reduce over a low heat. When the cream is reduced and creamy, add the gravy for the desired consistency. Blast chill and refrigerate.

Assembly lamb marinated in coffee corn ragout coffee sauce with xanthan gum aromatic buds Maldon salt salt pepper olive oil Wipe the lamb of any excess coffee; salt and pepper, then bake in a pan with hot oil, drain and place in the oven to finish cooking, about 5 minutes. Meanwhile, heat the corn sauce. In a square dish prepare an oblique strip of corn ragout adding a few drops of coffee sauce. Wipe the lamb, place in the plate, sprinkle with Maldon salt, add herbs and serve.

2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 17

Giovanni Grasso La Credenza Restaurant San Maurizio Canavese, Torino www.ristorantelacredenza.it

35


WORLD PASTRY CUP 2011 in Lyon

Emmanuele Forcone (sugar), Domenico Longo (ice), and Davide Comaschi (chocolate) are the members of the Italian team that will compete in the 11th edition of the Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie (World Pastry Cup), which will take place in Lyon, France, on 23rd and 24th of January 2011 at Eurexpo, in occasion of the 15th Sirha. Countries from all over the world – Japan, South Korea, Usa, Belgium, Italy, Netherlands, Spain, UK, Russia, Tunisia, Singapore, Malaysia, Taiwan, China, Morocco – will be involved in the international contest invented by Mof Gabriel Paillasson. The Italian team training is supervised by the Club Coupe du Monde - Selezione Italia, which is presided over by Luigi Biasetto. www.cmpatisserie.com/2009

The Italian team.

The Italian team thanks its sponsors

36

2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 17


THE UNIQUE PLEASURE OF THE ORIGINAL SFOGLIATELLA NAPOLETANA

info@vesupreme.it


HISTORYCAL PLACES

A STEP BACK IN TIME Since 1763 Turin's Al Bicerin has been a meeting place for intellectuals, gourmets, and tourists A stop at Al Bicerin is a step back in time. It seems incredible that the moment you enter this historic premises in Turin, at the same time there are people in New York shuffling about like ants on Fifth Avenue while the French drive their cars around the Arc de Triomphe of Paris. We are in the twenty-first century, yet time seems to have come to a standstill when, having gone beyond the advertising board and the insignia, you walk through the old iron door complete with small columns and capitals. Inside, the wall clock no longer seems to tick. The low ceiling, the timeworn herringbone floor, woodpanelled walls, mirrors and eight white marble Liberty tables set the mood. The shop windows are small with handmade white lace curtains behind them, and glass containers with assorted sweets, bottles of rosolio and vermouth in full view. The coffee machine on the counter represents the limit beyond which you cannot go because there is the entrance to the workshop where the chocolate cooks for hours before being ready for a bicerin. The premises are frequented by passersby,

38

intellectuals, tourists, and people who come to see "how we used to be". The service is unhurried, there is no noise, only the aroma of the chocolate, made using an old recipe handed down from Signora Cavalli to the current owner of the shop Maritè (Maria Teresa) Costa. This is no ordinary shop. The warm colours, dimmed lights, and a candle on every table make you feel like one of the family, thanks also to the all-female staff, out of respect for the tradition that allowed the madame to come here in all tranquillity. There is no privacy at Al Bicerin because the tables are so close to each other that clients can hear each other's con-

versations. Thanks to guide books and websites that speak about the premises as a must visit, some Spanish tourists ask for a hot chocolate; an actor, working in the evenings at the Teatro Carignano, reads a book, while a girl with a foreign accent looks around inquisitively. Il Bicerin was established in 1763 by the citron-drink maker and confectioner Giuseppe Dentis, who, in large glasses would serve the bavareisa, a mixed drink of coffee, chocolate and milk: the same ingredients that are served separately in the drink of the same name. www.bicerin.it

2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 17

Giuseppe Campanaro


MILAN 23rd - 27th OCTOBER 2010

The right recipe to leaven up your business In coincidence with:

pizza International Baking and Technology Exhibition for Bakery, Pastry and Confectionery

Products and Technology for Pizza and Fresh Pasta

www.abtechexpo.com Last generation machinery, installations, ovens, world-class ingredients and semi-finished products, cutting-edge equipment and furnishings: all what you need to make your activity more competitive and leaven up your business. The most complete and representative offer of innovations available on the market, the ideal opportunity to decide your investments, the unique occasion for professional update thanks to the many running demo-labs and the rich tutorial and workshop program.

THE MARKET MEETS IN MILAN: DON’T MISS THE DATE!

Events promoted by

With the endorsement and the co-operation of

Organized by

Contacts

F & M Fiere & Mostre S.r.l. Via M. Donati, 6 20146 Milano

A.B. Tech Expo Tel +39 02 49976246 Fax +39 02 49976251 promo.abtech@fieremostre.it


NEWS

A NEW FOOD GRADE SILICONE MOULD

The 100% food grade silicone SteccoFlex mould by Silikomart has been invented to make artisan gelato on a stick as an alternative to the gelato cone. This new mould comprises two silicone sections with 6 hollows, each one in a classic “gelato on a stick� shape, on a transparent food-grade plastic tray (size 30x40 cm), making product removal easy. The mould does not need to be warmed in water and the organoleptic qualities of the product are preserved, above all flavours, as silicone prevents ice crystals from forming on the surface. Moreover, it offers the competitive advantages of silicone moulds: reduced production times (today, the gelato producer can serially make artisan gelato on a stick in less than two hours), compatibility with any type of gelato maker, easy storage, simple and perfect removal at any temperature (up to 230°C) and high quality standards. Gelato made using Steccoflex can be produced and stored extremely easily. It is possible to fill the hollows in the mould with pasteurised whipped gelato, cover the product, vacuum pack and then store it in appropriate refrigerated cells, in order to use it when required. SteccoFlex can be combined with the latest technology providing additional and more versatile uses. Last but not least, the product can be also personalised, offering customers a gelato on a stick with glazes, multi-flavoured toppings, decorations... www.silikomart.it

A SWEET JEWEL Torta gioiello (jewel cake) is an original concept by Francesco Ciocatto, pastry chef and owner of Pasticceria Gerla in Torino, and Olimpia Ciervo, designer. For those wishing to produce this design cake, which is completely edible, a special technical and promotion kit is available, including all the useful elements to make and sell the cake. olimpiaciervo@libero.it

THE RECIPE TO LEAVEN UP YOUR BUSINESS Positive signs from A.B. Tech Expo, the exhibition dedicated to technologies and products for bakery, pastry, confectionery, fresh pasta and pizza, to be held in fieramilano (Rho, Milano) in October from 23rd to 27th 2010. A growing number of exhibitors have already confirmed their presence: 85% of the Italian manufacturers, leaders on the International market, has already decided to participate, making A.B. Tech Expo the venue of the year for all those professionals wishing to innovate and improve their production capabilities and increase their turnover. In Milan visitors will have the occasion to make a hands-on experience and find all the cutting edge production in terms of equipment, machinery, ovens, high quality ingredients and semi-finished products, as well as furnishing and facilities. Everything to make their business more competitive and in step with the times. Within the exhibiting area there will be several active workshops dedicated to professional training and updating specifically addressed to confectioners and bakers. With the precious support of the most important Italian pastry chefs and academies, these workshops will offer to the visitors the unique chance to update on the latest trends and the most effective techniques. A great number of events dedicated to pastry and chocolate will unveil to the secret skills of pastry-making craftsmanship, based on an alluring blend of technique, ingredients and creativity. Further information about the shows are on www.abtechexpo.com. Here you can also find all the latest news about the event. Moreover, on the website it is already available the pre-registration service for those who wish to apply for their free entrance card.

40

2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 17


My world has changed. My new multifunction kitchen helper: Multi Fresh速, Irinox.

Multi Fresh速, a new way of working which goes beyond blast chilling. Specifically designed to meet the requirements of confectioners, Multi Fresh速 offers multiple cycles to better manage their work, ensuring higher profits and improved organisation. Dedicated cycles by product type and controlled thawing and proving cycles make Multi Fresh速 a flexible, irreplaceable kitchen tool! IRINOX. THE FUTURE OF CONFECTIONERY STARTS HERE.

T. +39 0438 5844 - www.irinox.com


SessantaQuaranta

Mini-Cuori SQ 032

Cylinders SF 098

size: 60 x 40 cm

size: 17.5 x 30 cm

SteccoFlex

SugarFlex Gold

040101

GEL 01 CLASSIC size: 39.4 x 14.7 cm

SiliconFlex

PATENT PENDING

Silikomart is official sponsor of Italian National Pastry team at World Pastry Team Championship Phoenix 2010

size: 8 x 5 x h 20 cm

MADE IN ITALY

Silikomart - Venice - Italy www.silikomart.com silikomart@silikomart.com

PASTICCERIA INTERNAZIONALE World Wide Edition 17/2010  

Magazine of Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition in English language

Read more
Read more
Similar to
Popular now
Just for you