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Behind-the-scenes at Chatsworth


From Anglesey to Arran and Scilly to Shetland

spa stay for two in Jersey

Wonderful Wiltshire Explore the magical and medieval West Country

As the dust settles on the Diamond Jubilee and London 2012 draws to a close, the country prepares for a new chapter – the beautiful autumn months, my favourite time of year. The air is crisp and fresh, the trees turn golden coloured and it is the ideal time to meander through one of our many magnificent forests or ramble over quiet moors. Where better to begin this season’s adventures than our impressive islands, from the most southerly points of the Isles of Scilly, where the sun seems always to shine, to the far reaches of Scotland where you will find beautiful Bute and Barra. With more than 6,000 framing the mainland, just where do you start? We have selected our favourite hideaways to help you choose. See page 6 and start planning your next journey. Before you head out on your travels, pour yourself a cup of tea and take time to enjoy Royal Style on page 18. Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge adorns magazine covers on a weekly basis and her look is imitated worldwide, but the elegant wife of Prince William is not the first member of the Royal Family to set trends. Kings and queens centuries before have inspired generations and left behind a fashion legacy stitched firmly into our rich tapestry of royal history.



















a luxury spa stay for two in Jersey



Behind-the-scenes at Chatsworth


From Anglesey to Arran and Scilly to Shetland

Wonderful Wiltshire

Explore the magical and medieval West Country

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The Duke and Duchess of Cambridge ©Rex Features

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Explore the magic of medieval Wiltshire

UPSTAIRS, DOWNSTAIRS Behind-the-scenes at Chatsworth House


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spa stay for two in Jersey

Britain’s beautiful islands From Anglesey to Arran and Scilly to Shetland

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Godshill village on the Isle of Wight ©Patrick Eden/Alamy

31/07/2012 14:50


SOUND OF MUSIC In this, the last in our Exploring Britain series, we discover memorable places around the country that have inspired some of Britain’s musical masterminds.


Our top 10 heroes & heroines


ROYAL STYLE From Elizabeth I to The Duchess of Cambridge, British royalty has had a long and often very interesting relationship with fashion, creating some memorable style icons.



NATION OF ISLANDS Britain has more than 6,000 islands around its shores, ranging from the Shetland Islands in the north to the Isles of Scilly in the south – we explore them and their wonderful diversity.





Sam Pears, Editor


View of St Helen's Island from Rushy Point, Tresco, Isles of Scilly, in autumn


BEHIND THE SCENES Chatsworth is one of England’s finest stately homes and requires a large and efficient team of people to ensure it runs smoothly – we explore “below stairs”. BRITAIN 3




the official magazine

viEw from abovE

Breathtaking images taken by aerial photographer Jason Hawkes show Britain in a wonderful new way – we talk to him about the spectacular locations he's shot.


BrITaIN is the official magazine of VisitBritain, the national tourism agency. BrITaIN is published by The Chelsea Magazine Company ltd, liscartan House, 127-131 sloane street, london sW1X 9as Tel: (020) 7901 8000 Fax: (020) 7901 8001 email:

moonrakEr country In this county of classic Britishness ancient sites and pretty villages lie nestled in green rolling countryside.


Editor sam Pears Deputy Editor Jessica Tooze

britain mEEtS

Art Editor gareth Jones Designer rickardo Watkins

It is Punch and Judy's 350th year and we meet professor Glyn Edwards who has been performing the shows for over 50 years.


Publisher simon Temlett Web Manager Oliver Morley-Norris Online Executive Terri eaton Advertisement Manager Julian strutt Sales Executive alex lobsang Group Digital Sales Manager Matt rayner

britain'S muSt-SEE muSEumS From world-renowned greats to hidden gems, we've selected 27 museums across the country that are well worth a visit.

Managing Director Paul Dobson Deputy Managing Director steve ross Commercial Director Vicki gavin For VisitBritain Iris Buckley Printed in England by Wyndeham Heron, Maldon, essex Production all Points Media




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Get in touch and tell us about your experiences in Britain or let us know what you think of the magazine.


compEtition! Win a wonderful holiday to the beautiful island of Jersey, staying at the Grand Jersey Hotel with flights from Blue Island.


tHE brit LiSt The essential round-up of what to see and do, where to go and what to buy during your travels around Britain.


tEn tHingS you didn't know... From the Duke of Wellington to Florence Nightingale, we bring you some fascinating facts about Britain's heroes and heroines.



News distribution usa and Canada: CMg, llC/155 Village Blvd/3rd Floor/Princeton, NJ 08540 usa uK and rest of World: COMag, Tavistock road, West Drayton uB7 7Qe. Tel: +44 (0)1895 444055 Fax: +44 (0)1858 445255 BrITaIN (IssN 0019-3143) (usPs 004-335) is published bi-monthly by The Chelsea Magazine Company, liscartan House, 127-131 sloane street, london sW1X 9as, uK Distributed in the us by evergreen Marketing, 116 ram Cat alley, suite 201, seneca, sC 29678-3263 Periodicals postage paid at seneca, sC and additional mailing offices. POsTMasTer: send address changes to BrITaIN, PO Box 569, selmer, TN 38375-0569 Publications Mail agreement Number 41599077, 1415 Janette ave, Windsor, ON N8X 1Z1. Canadian gsT registered Number 834045627 rT0001

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Š The Chelsea Magazine Company ltd 2012. all rights reserved. Text and pictures are copyright restricted and must not be reproduced without permission of the publishers The information contained in BrITaIN has been published in good faith and every effort has been made to ensure its accuracy. However, where appropriate, you are strongly advised to check prices, opening times, dates, etc, before making final arrangements. all liability for loss, disappointment, negligence or damage caused by reliance on the information contained within this publication is hereby excluded. The opinions expressed by contributors to BrITaIN are not necessarily those of the publisher or VisitBritain.

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INSPIRING THE TENNIS GREATS Every summer brings another exciting Championship at Wimbledon, so why not visit the amazing award-winning Museum and learn more about the history which inspires the great players, and see John McEnroe’s ‘ghost’ and the original tournament trophies. You may also take the behind the scenes tour of the grounds and explore the home of tennis, including Centre Court, for a truly inspirational experience.




Open Daily 10:00am until 5:00pm Nearest Underground: Southfields Telephone: 020 8946 6131 The Museum Building, The All England Lawn Tennis & Croquet Club, Church Road, Wimbledon, London SW19 5AE WIMBLEDON.COM/MUSEUM


Lindisfarne Castle on Holy Island, off the Northumberland coast in the north east of England

British Isles

NatioN of islaNds With more than 6,000 islands around our shores, Britain can easily be considered a nation of islands. from the isles of scilly to shetland, the geographical spread ensures vast differences of climate and culture, landscape and language. We explore some of the most diverse WORDS Julia Hunt

British Isles

Left: Bryher, Isles of Scilly. Below: The view from Gweal Hill, Bryher. Facing page: Peel Castle on the Isle of Man



luxurious accommodation and direct helicopter access from Penzance. If you’re looking for a good hotel, Hell Bay on Bryher could be paradise. With four stars the hotel and restaurant are the highest rated on the isles. Bryher’s east coast is sheltered; while the west, directly exposed to the Atlantic, is perfect for sunsets and watching storms. Just a mile wide, St Agnes is a rural haven

of flower farms and unspoilt rocky shores. There are no hotels, just bed-and-breakfasts and self-catering cottages making it ideal for a peaceful escape. Take time to walk across the sand bar to Gugh, buy ice cream in Troytown Farm shop or visit the UK’s most south-westerly lighthouse. All the islands have Caribbean-style beaches; St Martin's has some of the best

photoS: © way out weSt photography/alamy/robert harding world imagery/


and’s End marks the last part of the British mainland, yet in terms of islands, it is only the beginning. Just 28 miles off the Cornish coast, the Isles of Scilly are like splashes from an artist’s brush, tiny dollops of land cast onto a turquoise canvas like a westerly afterthought. The landmass of these islands is tiny, yet they, like all Britain’s islands, contribute enormously to the character of our shores, doubling the length of the coastline. (According to Ordnance Survey the length of Britain’s coastline is 11,073 miles excluding islands and 19,491 miles including principal islands). The first place you are likely to see in the Scillies is St Mary’s, the main island, which is home to three quarters of the population of the isles. With its galleries, gift shops and garrison, there is plenty to occupy visitors for a day or two, and it makes a convenient base for exploring the other four islands. Tresco is famous for its Abbey Gardens, known as ‘Kew with the roof off’, which make the most of the mild Gulf climate to cultivate 2,000 sub-tropical species. The privately owned island is manicured, with









photoS: © AvAilAble light photogrAphy/AlAmy/AdAm burton/loop imAgeS/lee pengelly

British Isles

St Michael's Mount off the Cornish coast. Below: Twilight on the rocky Anglesey coast looking towards Penmon Point Lighthouse and Puffin Island

with its pale sand. Great Bay is wild and beautiful; Par Beach backs onto vineyards, and Lawrence’s Bay is family friendly. When Thomas Telford built a suspension bridge over the Menai Straits in 1826, Anglesey became an integral part of Wales. For walkers, the 125-mile Isle of Anglesey Coastal Path passes through a terrain of heath, dunes, cliffs and six Blue Flag beaches, while the 13th-century Beaumaris Castle is a UNESCO World Heritage site, with symmetrical concentric walls and views of Snowdonia. A Crown dependency, the Isle of Man has the oldest continuous parliament in the world, the Tynwald, and is a fusion of Celtic and Viking culture. Located in the middle of the Irish Sea, the name is thought to come from Manannan Mac Lir, a Celtic sea god, who covered the island with mist to hide it from invaders. Take the steam railway south from Douglas, the capital, to sandcastle beaches at

Port Erin, visit medieval Castle Rushen and the remains of Rushen Abbey or try to spot fairies in one of the island’s 18 verdant glens. At the end of May 37 miles of island roads become a racetrack for the TT motorcycle races, an event that has taken place since 1907. Just 30 minute's drive from Glasgow, Inchmurrin offers blissful views across Loch Lomond to the Trossachs. Water sports enthusiasts can canoe, water ski, or wind surf, while a paddle steamer, motor yacht and sea plane offer more relaxed ways to see the loch. The largest freshwater lake island in Britain, Inchmurrin was a deer park during the 18th century and is still covered with trees. Few places have public lavatories on their must-see list, however, Bute’s Victorian conveniences, with mosaic floors and Twyford fittings, are a quirky attraction. Set in the Firth of Clyde, day-tripping distance from Glasgow, Bute has an annual Jazz Festival, has three golf britain



Discover our beautiful countryside, ancient monuments and historic attractions. Request your FREE guide online today.


OR UNLIMITED TRAVEL WITH THE 5 DAY HERITAGE EXPLORER PASS Travel by bus, tram and train, plus receive entry to all Manx National Heritage attractions. Available at the Manx Museum and online.

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At the heart of the Isle of Arran, Scotland’s most accessible island, lies the multi-award winning, family owned ‘Auchrannie Resort’. Two, four star hotels and thirty, five-star, self-catering lodges are complemented by three outstanding restaurants and bars plus two leisure centres offering pools, saunas and a wide range of ESPA beauty treatments. Sample a portion of our unique island hospitality, served with a generous helping of individuality, passion and personality, on, arguably, the most beautiful island in Europe. Whilst many tourists arrive wanting to simply kick back and relax, the island is packed with an abundance of attractions and sights for visitors of all ages. Any trip to Arran would be incomplete without sampling some of the local produce; take in a tour of the islands very own distillery and brewery, enjoy the speciality cheeses and chocolates and of course pamper yourself with the world famous ‘Arran Aromatics’ toiletries. They say “Auchrannie is addictive”, why not discover for yourself? tel: +44 (0)1770 302 234 12 BRITAIN

brodick, isle of arran


photoS: © jeremy Sutton-hibbert/AlAmy/mAt monteith/iStock

Britain Isles

Winkle Street cottages on the Isle of Wight. Below: Mount Stuart House, home to the Stuarts of Bute, on the Isle of Bute, Scotland

courses and is home to Mount Stuart, one of Britain’s finest Gothic mansions, which boasts the country’s first indoor swimming pool. Known as ‘Scotland in Miniature’, Arran has an element of everything you would expect from a Scottish island with a mountainous interior, beaches, fishing villages, castles and woodland. The largest island in the Forth of Clyde, Arran has been inhabited since Neolithic times, and relics include the Machrie Moor Standing Stones and cairns near Lamlash. With nine distilleries, Islay in the Inner Hebrides is the island for a dram. Famous for its peaty malts, Islay has Scotland’s newest distillery, Kilchoman, which uses barley grown in surrounding fields. Watch the sun set into the Atlantic at Saligo Bay, before heading to the cosy bar at Port Charlotte to sample the local produce. In Barra, beach landing slots of BA’s Twin Otter are determined by the tides and

according to Highlands and Islands Airports, ‘When not in use, the runways at Barra airport are often used by kite surfers’. One of the Outer Hebrides’ smallest inhabited islands, Barra is also one of the most beautiful with white sands, acres of machair grass and over 1,000 species of wildflowers. From the Old Norse for ‘high land’, Harris is dominated by mountains formed on one of the oldest rocks in the world, Lewisian Gneiss. Harris is famous for its tweed, which is also made on Lewis, the next island north. Luskentyre is the island’s most spectacular beach, a white and turquoise expanse, with views towards Taransay, the island from the BBC programme Castaway. Visit the Summer Isles in spring when bright yellow gorse is flowering or, in summer, Loch Broom is idyllic for kayaking or sailing, with boat rentals from the Isles of Tanera Mòr, the only inhabited island. Stay in holiday cottages britain


STAY WITH US 6 highly individual properties each exuding charm and character, recently restored and refurbished to provide a high standard of self-catering accommodation in fabulous locations. Each house provides the perfect base from which to explore Mount Stuart and the Isle of Bute, and offers immaculate and comfortable living space for family holidays, corporate weekends, wedding parties and relaxing breaks. For further information regarding any of our delightful properties, please telephone or visit our website.

t: +44 (0) 1700 503877

DISCOVER ONE OF THE WORLD’S FINEST HOUSES Explore this wondrous Victorian Gothic structure and its labyrinth of gardens set in 300 acres... you won’t fail to be impressed! House | Gardens | Visitor Centre Restaurant | Gift Shops Garden Centre | Tea Rooms Farm Shop | Adventure Play Area Contemporary Visual Arts Exhibition Just 90 minutes from Glasgow city centre with frequent rail and ferry services daily to the most accessible Scottish island. Open April to October.

t: +44 (0) 1700 503877

Home of tHe CHiefs of Clan maCleod for 800 years Home of of tHe tHe CHiefs CHiefs of of Clan Clan maCleod maCleod for for 800 years Home years Home of tHe CHiefs of Clan maCleod for 800 years


open: 1 April - 15 OctOber 10Am - 5.30pm (lAst entry 5pm) 16 OctOber - 31 mArch Open by AppOintment DunvegAn cAstle isle Of skye iv55 8Wf T: 01470 521206 e: infO@DunvegAncAstle.cOm w: WWW.DunvegAncAstle.cOm

open: open: 1 1 April April -- 15 15 OctOber OctOber 10Am 10Am -- 5.30pm 5.30pm (lAst (lAst entry entry 5pm) 5pm) 16 16 OctOber OctOber -- 31 31 mArch mArch Open Open by by AppOintment AppOintment open: 1 April 15 OctOber 10Am 5.30pm (lAst entry 5pm) 16 OctOber 31 mArch Open by AppOintment DunvegAn cAstle isle Of skye iv55 8Wf T: 01470 521206 e: infO@DunvegAncAstle.cOm w: WWW.DunvegAncAstle.cOm DunvegAn cAstle isle Of skye iv55 8Wf T: 01470 521206 e: infO@DunvegAncAstle.cOm w: WWW.DunvegAncAstle.cOm DunvegAn cAstle isle Of skye iv55 8Wf T: 01470 521206 e: infO@DunvegAncAstle.cOm w: WWW.DunvegAncAstle.cOm

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British Isles

on Tanera, visit for a day, or take a cruise around the isles. The mountains of the Coigach are, perhaps, most beautiful in autumn and winter, when snow covers peaks, days are short and the wilderness is empty. Up Helly Aa is the name of Europe’s largest fire festival, a mid-winter celebration of Shetland’s Viking culture where ‘Jarls’ process through Lerwick with flaming torches before burning a wooden ship. Colonised by Vikings in the 8th century, Shetland was ruled by Scandinavia for over 500 years, coming to Scotland as a dowry. Comprised of over 100 islands, the Shetlands are on the same latitude as Oslo and contain over 5,000 archaeological sites including Jarlshof, one of the best preserved Bronze Age settlements in the world. Joined to the Northumbrian coast by a causeway at low tide, Holy Island (Lindisfarne) has been a place of Christian pilgrimage since St Cuthbert founded the first priory there in the 8th century. The Lindisfarne Gospels, illuminated manuscripts produced during this era, are kept in the British Library; however, you can see paper and interactive copies in the Heritage Centre. Dating back to the 12th century, the giant pink stone ‘rainbow arch’ of the Benedictine Monastery gives a glimpse of how important the site was. Lindisfarne Castle, a Tudor fort converted into a house by Edward Lutyens, has gardens designed by Gertrude Jekyll. The Isle of Wight has been a popular British holiday destination since the 19th century when Queen Victoria summered at Osborne House. Famous visitors include Charles Dickens who wrote David Copperfield on the island and Charles Darwin who started On the Origin of Species here. The island’s most iconic landmark is the Needles, a series of stacks formed where a chalk seam juts out into the sea, however, over half the island is designated an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and its fossil-rich cliffs also have Heritage Coast status. As the host of Cowes Week, Britain’s largest sailing regatta, and Bestival, a four-day seaside Glastonbury, the island still attracts a diverse audience. There is only one way to get to Burgh Island, Devon, at high tide and that is by sea tractor, over the causeway from Bigbury-on-Sea. Agatha Christie fans will know Burgh better as Smugglers’ Island from Evil Under The Sun, a novel she wrote at Burgh. The Burgh Island Hotel is a homage to the 1930s with Art Deco furnishing, an elegant Palm Court bar and rooms named after guests including Noel Coward and Wallis Simpson.

Grandes Rocques and Saline Bay, Guernsey. Below: An art installation presides over the untouched beauty of the island of Herm, near Guernsey

Neither part of the UK nor the EU, the Channel Islands are Crown dependencies with their own parliaments, legal systems and even their own languages, Dgèrnésiais, Jèrriais and Sercquiais, although everyone now speaks English. The islands belonged to the Duchy of Normandy in 1066 when William the Conqueror invaded England and in 1204 when Normandy joined the Kingdom of France, the Channel Islands pledged allegiance to England. The threat of invasion from France was particularly great during the 18th century and the islands were fortified with Martello towers and forts, however the biggest military installations came during the German Occupation from 1940-45. Slave labourers from across Europe were forced to build huge sea walls to prevent the allies landing. Depicted in The Guernsey Literary and Potato Peel Pie Society, a bestselling novel about the Occupation, Guernsey was also britain


Mont Orgueil Castle and Gorey Harbour, Jersey

home to the exiled French writer Victor Hugo in the 1850s. You can visit Hauteville House, where Hugo wrote Les Misérables, see the world’s smallest consecrated chapel, Little Chapel, take in the Noon Day Gun at Castle Cornet or just enjoy wandering around St Peter Port, the picturesque main town. The third largest Channel Island, Alderney feels like Cornwall might have 50 years ago. St Anne, the main settlement, is a good-sized village, with elegant Georgian houses and cottages painted in ice-cream shades. You can cycle around the island in a day, or take a week picnicking on every beach. A feudal state until 2008, Sark is car-free, and the 600 residents rely on bicycles, horses and even a ‘toast rack’, a tractor-driven carriage, to get around. Many old hotels have been recently renovated and offer luxurious accommodation with excellent local seafood, island-grown vegetables and from next year,



even Sark wine. The Seigneurie Gardens are a delight, as is a day trip to Brecqhou, the nearby private island owned by the Barclay Brothers. Jersey, the largest of the islands, is an important offshore financial centre and St Helier has a cosmopolitan vibe with its marina, al fresco bars and smartly dressed residents. Less than five minutes from town you can lose yourself in a network of tiny country lanes, passing pink granite cottages and countless small fields of Jersey Royals. After an afternoon walking the cliff paths on the north coast, or relaxing on a golden sandy beach like St Brelade’s Bay, head to Gorey, a small fishing port, where you can enjoy dinner or drinks looking at Mont Orgueil. It’s over 100 miles from Jersey back to the mainland, a journey which takes over four hours by ferry or just 35 minutes by air. But in Britain, when you say goodbye to one island, you’re just about to say hello to another.

travel tips  Britain’s islands can be reached by road, boat, plane or helicopter – the journey is part of the experience. For more information about travel options to the islands mentioned in this feature, and for TIC website addresses, visit Accommodation on Britain’s islands is just as varied. Here are a few favourites: J Cottage style rooms make La Sablonnerie one of the prettiest hotels in sark. Doubles from £97 per night. J the best view of the summer isles is from the mainland at achiltibuie. The Summer Isles Hotel has doubles from £155. J Burgh Island Hotel offers a taste of the 30s. Check in during a murder mystery weekend for the full experience, from £400 per night. J live the high life in Jersey at The Atlantic Hotel, with its lovely pool and Michelin star restaurant. Doubles from £160. J The Isle of Barra Beach Hotel in the Outer Hebrides has modest rooms in a magical location. Doubles from £96.

pHOtO: © nagelestOCk.COM/alaMy

British Isles

the relationship between British royalty and fashion is long and wide-ranging – Queen Victoria began a trend for the wearing of white wedding dresses in europe, and catherine, Duchess of cambridge is on the cover of glossy magazines worldwide – as the author of a new book, ‘royal style: A history of Aristocratic fashion icons’, reveals WORDS Luise WackerL



photo: WpA pool - john stilWell/getty imAges/courtesy of royAl style A history of AristocrAtic fAshion icons


British Style

On the day after their wedding, The Duke and Duchess of Cambridge are photographed at Buckingham Palace. Catherine wears a dress purchased on the British high street



Left: The Duke and Duchess of Cambridge with Prince Harry at the races in Epsom. Facing page: Queen Victoria made the white wedding dress popular when she wore one at her wedding to Albert in 1840


lways beautifully dressed with her mix of high street and high fashion, Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge adorns the newspapers and glossy magazines on a weekly if not a daily basis here in Britain. But she is not the only member of the Royal Family to have made an impression. Centuries ago, her royal predecessors also caused a sensation among an admiring British public. Elizabeth I reinforced her power with swathes of sweeping robes and Queen Victoria popularised the white wedding dress. As they have done in the past, the royals continue to set trends. Flesh-coloured silk stockings were a fashion faux pas until Kate Middleton appeared on the scene. Since her wedding to Prince William last year, The Duchess of Cambridge has become a style icon and breathed new life into so-called ‘granny glamour’. She covers her bare legs out of deference to court protocol, but as a consequence she has elevated the nude-coloured patent leather pump and nude tight combo to a must-have look. She also boosted the sale of skinny, coral-coloured jeans around the world, with young girls and women striving to look like a princess.



The not quite rags-to-riches story of the millionaire’s daughter from Berkshire is almost too good to be true. The romance of the decade began in 2001, as William and Kate fell in love at the University of St Andrews. After a slight ‘blip’ the couple announced their engagement. On 16 November 2010, William’s new fiancée revealed a love token ‘par excellence’ – the bright-blue sapphire ring made 30 years ago by the world’s oldest jeweller, Garrard, for Diana, Princess of Wales. The ring, with its dazzling oval 18-carat sapphire surrounded by 14 diamonds, was considered a wonderful way to pay tribute to Prince William’s mother. Mirroring Diana’s engagement look, Kate matched the colour of her outfit to the ring. The Daniella Issa Helayel blue drapé silk dress (costing £400) sold out within hours, while the ring – albeit cheap imitations – became an instant worldwide sensation. British royals have been setting trends for centuries, the difference being that while Kate is keen for her image and popularity to resonate with the general public – mixing luxury labels with affordable items from the high street – the magnificent wardrobes of past royals kept them far apart from the simple folk of their day.

photos: dave m bennett/franz xaver winterhalter, imagno/hulton archive/getty images/courtesy of royal style a history of aristocratic fashion icons/ royal collection trust/Š hm Queen elizabeth ii 2012

British Style




Sat 15 & Sun 16 September 2012 Stade Open Space, Old Town, Hastings The Hastings Seafood and Wine Festival, now in its seventh year, is a of Hastings’ sustainable fishery and fishing heritage, its surrounding vineyards and excellent local food producers. Attracting more than 40,000 food lovers to taste succulent dishes from over 30 food stalls - where local chefs conjure up a colourful array of flavours - the festival runs from 11am - 7pm both days.


For more information call 01424 451111 or visit

The festivities take place in the atmospheric Old Town in the heart of the picturesque fishing and cultural quarter known as The Stade with its iconic black wooden net shops, and which is home to Europe’s largest beach-launched fishing fleet. The festival’s now permanent home on the Stade Open Space also boasts the newly opened Jerwood Gallery, a prestigious collection of 20th & 21st century British art.

Except assist

British Style

Above: Queen Elizabeth I consciously used her gowns to create a distance between herself and others. Below: Norman Hartnell designed a blue gown for The Queen for her sister's wedding in 1960 photos: © the NatioNal trust photolibrary/alamy/cecil beatoN/v&a images/courtesy of royal style a history of aristocratic fashioN icoNs

In order to assert herself, Elizabeth I (1533-1603) spent her whole life at court. The monarch had to underscore her power by wearing severely cut, sweeping robes. Her skirts were held by a rod at the waist and assumed unprecedented proportions beneath. As if to say ‘come to me, just don’t get too close’. In order to cement her position of power, the Virgin Queen refused all offers of marriage. Although she is said to have amused herself with lovers, ultimately she was married to her kingdom. In order not to look too masculine, and in contrast to the gloomy garb of the Spanish court, she had many of her 6,000 garments tailored in white and filled with gold applications and bows. But Queen Elizabeth was not strictly a fashion icon in those days, because her style could not be imitated. Elizabeth would brook no rival fashionista by her side either and she dictated strict codes of dress to her ladies-in-waiting: woe betide them if they should disobey. In 1587, fearing for her throne, the childless monarch had her second cousin, Mary Stuart Queen of Scots beheaded. Headless Mary gave her name to the fan-shaped, high-necked ruff or Stuart Collar, which was one of Elizabeth’s favourite accessories. Some 300 years later, Queen Victoria (1819-1901) became Britain’s greatest trendsetter. For most brides, Maria de Medici had already introduced the white wedding dress in 1600, but the British made it popular throughout Europe. Victoria was not a great beauty but she knew how to move in the right light. As in the days of her predecessor Elizabeth I, the kingdom flowered in a new golden age, the greatgreat-grandmother of the present Queen ruling for 63 years over a quarter of the world’s population. At the same time, she was right up there in the fashion stakes next to Elisabeth of Austria (‘Sisi’) and Eugénie de Montijo, as one of three great, ‘trendy’ queens of her time. Victoria’s genuine love match to her cousin Albert of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha (1819-1861) was a milestone of royal style in the 19th century. Although their marriage was arranged, the 20-year-old, as she was then, was head over heels in love with her husband. When she stepped inside the chapel of St James’s Palace on 10 February 1840, her wedding dress symbolised this great passion. The diminutive monarch appeared in a strapless corset dress with ruffles and a relatively short veil. Two hundred people worked on the hem of her dress for about nine months. Most unusual, however, was the colour of the dress – white. While the nobility were often married in silver and gold fabrics, the people preferred black for everyday use. Since at that time photos were not very common, the pair repeated their vows for the camera 14 days after the wedding. Victoria brought nine children into the world. Whilst waiting to take his seat on the throne, her eldest son Edward VII (1841-1910), spent his time on parties, women and clothes. He not only gave his name to the Prince of Wales’ check, (formerly the Glen Check), but he also started a fashion for wearing the smoking jacket outside the smoking lounges. At that time, gentlemen wore their velvet jackets only when smoking and then slipped back into a frock coat or tailcoat for dinner. Edward had a smoking-jacket made in black fabric, rather than silk, by London tailor Henry Poole & Co, which he would not remove even when eating. Hence, the smoking jacket became the dinner jacket we know today. The trend quickly spread to America. After visiting the Prince of Wales in London, a certain James Brown Potter appeared in the new quilted jacket at the Autumn Ball at the Tuxedo Club, a private members’ club in New York. In the US, therefore, the dinner jacket is known as the ‘tuxedo’.



British Style


Above: Diana steals the show at the Serpentine Gallery, London in a black cocktail dress by Christina Stambolian. Below: Princess Margaret wore a ball gown by Christian Dior as early as her 21st birthday

Elizabeth II has also been at the forefront of enduring trends. Her colourful mix of candy-coloured suits and matching hats, and her bags with box-shaped handles and sturdy shoes are instantly recognisable wherever she goes in the world. During her reign, she has confided in only seven court tailors and a personal stylist (whose official title is Personal Assistant and Senior Dresser to The Queen). The first was Norman Hartnell (1901-1979), who dressed The Queen, her sister Princess Margaret (1930-2002) and The Queen Mother (1900-2002) in what is now considered typical Windsor-chic. The Queen Mother first rose to fame as a true fashion icon after her state visit to Paris in 1938 (she was then Queen Consort of King George VI). Her mother, the Countess of Strathmore died suddenly just before she was due to depart but Norman Hartnell had already tailored 30 dresses for the visit. On hearing the news, he designed a new wardrobe entirely in white – a reference to Queen Victoria, who had been buried in white, and the queens of France who had, until the 17th century, unusually adopted white as the colour of mourning. In short, the Queen Mother’s White Wardrobe had a huge impact on the streets of haute couture’s capital. A cult developed around the her and her two daughters – Princesses Elizabeth and Margaret. While Margaret smoked cigarettes from a long holder with a diamond-encrusted tip and appeared in a fluffy ball gown from Dior, her fingernails painted pink on her 21st birthday, her elder sister quickly learned to use her clothes more as a political statement. Queen Elizabeth II's sumptuous coronation gown by Norman Hartnell was embroidered with the emblems of the Empire and all the Commonwealth states. On her feet she wore a pair of golden goatskin pumps by Parisian ‘king of shoes’ Roger Vivier. He had created a fleur-de-lis motif with many small rubies – a reference to Elizabeth’s famous Imperial State Crown and the St Edward’s Crown, which were both used in her coronation. Even today The Queen is still a royal trendsetter, helped by her personal stylist Angela Kelly. When she appeared at the wedding of her grandson Prince William in 2011 with a cream-coloured handbag made of calf leather (a unique bespoke item by its purveyors Launer of London), she sparked a boom in sales of similar styles. Princess Diana (1961-1997) knew how to use the language of fashion for herself. In 1994, as Prince Charles tried to restore his honour after his affair with Camilla Parker-Bowles had been revealed in the press, Diana stole the show at a gala at London’s Serpentine Gallery in a strapless, black cocktail dress by Christina Stambolian. After her divorce in 1996, the Princess became an icon of ‘clean chic’, favouring clean lines and fine fabrics, sheath dresses by Versace, and high-heels by Jimmy Choo. Although her looks were always simple, they also increasingly emphasised her well-toned body. As different as these royal style icons all are, each of them has left their own indelible mark on the world of fashion.

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photo: Loop Images/Iksung nah

Early morning view from the edge of Ranmore Common in Surrey Hills Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty on the North Downs, looking south towards Wotton, Westcott and Dorking



Exploring Britain

The hills are alive There’s no doubting the effect a place can have on a composer’s imagination and when that place is Britain, that effect can be very powerful indeed. In this, the last in our Exploring Britain series, we discover the places that inspired Britain’s musical masterminds WORDS John Evans




Above right: Portrait of Ralph Vaughan Williams (1872-1958). Below: A view toward the Malvern Hills, which stand astride the three counties of Herefordshire, Gloucestershire and Worcestershire

ritain’s landscape can change dramatically in the space of just a few hours, morphing from moorland to craggy coast, from rolling hills to cloud-capped peaks, and from crowded cities to empty plains as far as the eye can see. No wonder Britain has inspired some of the world’s greatest composers. But what exactly is it about Britain’s rapidly changing countryside that inspires them? Do composers simply wander the hills and fields in search of interesting features to set to music? The answer is yes, sometimes. Arnold Bax’s imagination was captured by the ancient, mystical ruins of Tintagel Castle on Cornwall’s sea-battered north coast. The resulting piece called, simply, Tintagel, is a perfect depiction of the place in music. But for many composers it’s the spirit of an area, rather than any specific feature, that fires their musical imagination. The vast skies and the grey, desolate North Sea of Benjamin Britten’s Suffolk; the gritty, hunkered-down remoteness of Maxwell-Davies’s Orkney Islands; the breezy uplands of Elgar’s Malvern Hills, high above a patchwork England – places such as these, rich with emotional triggers, are often what fuel composers’ imaginations. Somehow the look, smell, feel and sound of a place are translated into music so that anyone with experience of the same area can recognise it in the composer’s music and, best of all, paint their own mental images.

Ralph Vaughan Williams’ The Lark Ascending Dorking, Surrey Cricket on the village green, picture-perfect cottages, thickly wooded hills – Surrey is probably most people’s idea of postcard England. Stir in the strains of Ralph Vaughan Williams’ The Lark Ascending and you’ve poured the perfect English cocktail. So what makes the English composer, and this piece in particular, such a powerful ingredient in England’s cultural mix? Vaughan Williams’ father was a Church of England vicar, his mother the great-granddaughter of the potter Josiah Wedgwood. His great-uncle was the scientist Charles Darwin. For much of his early life, Vaughan Williams lived in the Wedgwood home, Leith Hill House, near Dorking, a busy but pretty market town. Vaughan Williams’ life was a unique blend of privilege and humility, an accident of birth granting the future composer social status – his experiences and family connections giving him an understanding of the lives of ordinary people and nature’s influence. English folksong

The look, smell, feel and sound of a place are translated into music so that anyone with experience of the same area can recognise it in the composer’s work



Exploring Britain

photos: Loop Images/DavID CheshIre/aLamY/robert harDIng WorLD ImagerY/rICharD shepparD/marY evans pICtUre LIbrarY

Picture-perfect cottages, thickly wooded hills – Surrey is probably most people’s idea of postcard England

was popular among ordinary people and Vaughan Williams would cycle the winding Surrey lanes gathering songs. One fruitful hunting ground was the Plough Inn in the village of Rusper, still a popular watering hole. Meanwhile, in his depiction of a lark soaring on wings of song, Vaughan Williams was responding to his countrymen’s love of nature with which, through Dorking’s steep-sided lanes encircling Leith Hill, dense woodland and fertile river plains, he was so familiar. Vaughan Williams sketched The Lark Ascending during the First World War. The world would never be the same again; nor, after his experiences as a stretcher bearer, would Vaughan Williams. But The Lark Ascending plays on, reminding us of a Surrey idyll both real and imagined.

edward elgar’s Enigma Variations Malvern, Worcestershire Travel south of Birmingham and the magnificent Malvern Hills, eight miles long north to south, loom alone and proud, rising – not soaring – from a flat landscape to 425 metres (1,400 feet). Hardly the stuff of legend

but that’s exactly what they have become thanks to the music of local boy Edward Elgar. He was born just outside Worcester in the shadow of the Malverns, the son of a piano tuner. Elgar was an ordinary man with extraordinary gifts, a musician who made and kept friends easily and who loved the area in which he lived – he was fond of cycling the Worcestershire lanes, and of playing golf and football. In later life Elgar moved to nearby Malvern where he rented many homes in and around the town. You can see them all on the Elgar Trail, a well-signposted drive that you can follow today. But Malvern’s distance from Birmingham to the north and London even farther to the south east forced the locals to look to themselves for entertainment. It was just the environment in which a talented composer and teacher fond of music and good company could flourish. Elgar made many friends and paid tribute to 14 of them in his defining work, the Enigma Variations. One variation, Troyte, is named after his good friend Arthur Troyte Griffith. One day, he and Elgar were out walking on the Malvern Hills when a thunderstorm struck, forcing them to run for cover. The music cleverly recalls the excitement of their breathless dash. If ever a place inspired a piece of music, then the modest Malverns have inspired one of this country’s greatest.

Above: Leith Hill Tower in Surrey. Below: Statue of Edward Elgar in the garden of his birthplace, The Firs cottage in Lower Broadheath, Worcestershire



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Exploring Britain

While Padstow is a pretty picture postcard of a Cornish harbour town, it’s one that retains its traditions and isn’t afraid of hard graft Arnold Bax’s Tintagel tintagel Castle, Cornwall With its craggy cliffs, golden beaches, crashing surf and bracing winds, Cornwall’s north coast could have been created by Hollywood. Glimpse Tintagel Castle standing guard over the sea some 15 miles north of the quaint fishing port of Padstow, and you would swear it were true. In fact, Tintagel is a medieval castle that may once have had some strategic usefulness but which, thanks to its part in an 11th-century mythical account of British history as the place where King Arthur was conceived, became shrouded in mystery and fantasy. Its romantic ruins, battered by the north coast wind and rain, sit on a small peninsula reached by a steep, narrow flight of steps. No wonder that, given such a location and history, it inspired one of Britain’s finest pieces of music. If anyone was going to be moved by such a place, it would be the English composer Arnold Bax. Both a musician and a poet, blending romanticism and impressionism and influenced by Irish literature and landscape (he had a close affinity with Ireland and lived there on and off for over 30 years), Bax was hugely receptive to Tintagel’s mystique. But it would take a woman to turn his fevered interest into music. That woman was his mistress, the pianist Harriet Cohen, with whom Bax holidayed at Tintagel for six

weeks in 1917. Inspired by her, Bax weaved references to Wagner’s opera Tristan und Isolde, which also features Tintagel, into his heavily charged work. You can sense the drama of their relationship amid the castle’s eerie ruins.

Malcolm Arnold’s Padstow Lifeboat Padstow, Cornwall Thanks to TV chef Rick Stein, who has not one but four fish restaurants in the town, the Cornish fishing port of Padstow has in recent years taken on a whole new character. It’s still a working port, however, and while Padstow is a pretty picture postcard of a Cornish harbour town, it’s one that, despite the tourist trinket shops and upmarket fish restaurants, retains its traditions and isn’t afraid of hard graft. Trawler fishing is not for the faint-hearted. When last season’s tourists are safely returned and the town is quiet once more, Padstow’s hardy fishermen are gunning their trawler engines and turning their helms for the waters of the Celtic Sea and beyond.

Above top: Padstow in Cornwall. Above: The Old Post Office in the quaint village of Tintagel, Cornwall britain


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Exploring Britain

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Benjamin Britten established the now world-famous Aldeburgh Festival

Many have lost their lives in pursuit of the food of the sea but one plucky band of men is on permanent standby to help them. The crew of the Padstow Lifeboat know fear, but still they brave the sea to help those in peril. They were immortalised by the composer Malcolm Arnold who lived in neighbouring St Merryn and who in 1968, on the dedication of their new lifeboat station, presented them with a fine new march – The Padstow Lifeboat, a March for Orchestra. It’s typical Arnold – bold, tuneful and shot through with wicked humour, in this case a repeated off-key blast from the brass, representing the blaring foghorn of Padstow lighthouse. How it must make the cutlery shake in Rick’s restaurants!

Benjamin Britten’s Peter Grimes aldeburgh, Suffolk What is it about the North Sea, the watery grey plain which separates Britain from northern Europe, that fills people with foreboding? Is it the biting easterly winds that blow over it from Siberia to freeze our east coast? Is it the intimidating

coastline itself, one lacking the clifftops and sandy charms of our west coast playgrounds? Whatever the reason, it has inspired one of classical music’s most forbidding and desolate operas – Peter Grimes. Composed by the famous Suffolk-born composer Benjamin Britten, premiering in 1945, it tells the story of a trawlerman, Peter Grimes, accused by the local townsfolk of murdering his apprentice. The judge finds him innocent. However, a friend advises him against hiring another. But a friend persuades him to do just that and when the angry mob finds out, Peter Grimes and his young apprentice head for his boat. Alas, the young lad falls to his death from the clifftop and when eventually his jersey is found washed up on the beach Grimes flees back to the sea, which claims his life. It’s not a story to put a holiday smile on your face but to Benjamin Britten it was the perfect plot for an opera. He lived in the Suffolk town of Aldeburgh (indeed, he established the now world-famous Aldeburgh Festival at nearby Snape Maltings) so he was well acquainted with the town’s fishing industry. But that’s to ignore the subtext to the opera, which in Britten’s words “is a subject very close to my heart. The struggle of the individual against the masses. The more vicious the society, the more vicious the individual.” Only the North Sea could provoke such a feeling.

Above: The war memorial and memorial gardens by the Moot Hall in Aldeburgh, Suffolk. Left: Benjamin Britten in his office in The Red House, Aldeburgh, 1964 britain


Exploring Britain

PHotos: Istock/AnDy wIllIAMs/looP IMAGes

Pretty white crofts, stoic little towns and bustling harbours are home to a thriving Orcadian community

cotswolD coMPosers

Above: Stromness on the Orkney Islands, Scotland. Right: Parish church and lychgate, Painswick, Gloucestershire



J the Gloucestershire countryside has inspired many of Britain’s greatest composers. Gustav Holst, the composer of the Planets suite, was born in cheltenham. like so many composers from the cotswolds, his early impressions must surely have inspired him. J Hubert Parry, he of Jerusalem fame, spent his childhood, when not at eton college, at the family home of Highnam court near Gloucester. It was a privileged upbringing and one that might be expected to inspire Britain’s second national anthem, but the piece was initially embraced by the suffragette movement, a cause close to Parry. J Gloucester-born Ivor Gurney’s songs (listen especially to sleep ) are heart-wrenching in their beauty and sense of loss, a feeling sharpened by the fact that this former First world war soldier eventually succumbed to

mental illness and the possible effects of wartime gas years later in 1937. J Gerald Finzi, composer of that wonderfully touching piece, Eclogue was actually born in london but as a young man settled in the beautiful Gloucestershire village of Painswick to escape the bustle and concentrate on composing.

Peter Maxwell Davies’ Farewell to Stromness Hoy, Orkney islands The Orkney Islands lie ten miles off the northernmost tip of Scotland. Their sheltered sandy bays, piercing blue waters, dramatic cliffs and heather-topped moors are home to vast flocks of migrant birds, while pretty white crofts, stoic little towns and bustling harbours are home to a thriving Orcadian community. Given all of this, you can understand why that former enfant terrible of British contemporary music, the composer Peter Maxwell Davies, would choose to settle here. If you’re a composer seeking escape and inspiration, you’ll find it in abundance in Orkney. But even this visionary musician could not have predicted where one source of inspiration might come from. In the early 1980s there were plans to locate a uranium mine near the village of Stromness. Max, as he is known, composed the Yellow Cake Revue (yellowcake is uranium concentrate), a collection of short pieces, to fight the plan. One piece in particular stands out – Farewell to Stromness, a simple but beautiful little tune over a walking bass that tells of the Stromness village folk having to leave their homes. Only when you’ve experienced Orkney can you imagine the wrench this would be.

 For more information about the locations and the music mentioned in this feature, visit

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GueRnSeY GeTaWaY

With its mix of stunning scenery, tapestry of architectural styles and luxury hotels, Guernsey is an ideal getaway. Explore the cliff paths or relax on beautiful beaches before heading to the bistros and boutiques of St Peter Port WORDS Jessica tooze


or a luxurious haven to return to after a day enjoying all that Guernsey has to offer, The Red Carnation Hotel Collection has two beautiful hotels centrally located in St Peter Port. Both are perfectly situated for a visit to the pretty beaches, a stroll around the harbour, or a boat trip to one of the neighbouring islands. In the heart of St Peter Port, just up the hill from the main shopping street and barely five minutes’ walk from the picturesque quayside, is the Old Government House Hotel and spa. With over 150 years of experience, Guernsey’s first and only five-star property offers magnificent sea and harbour views from many of its bedrooms. You can unwind in the spa pools, steam room, sauna and outdoor heated pool before enjoying dinner at your choice of restaurants – either The Curry Room at The Governor’s, offering authentic Indian cuisine, or the more informal Brasserie, serving fresh local seafood. Traditional afternoon tea is served in the gardens or in the Sir John Coward Lounge and there are daily barbecues in the Olive Grove during the summer months.

In a peaceful location adjacent to Candie Gardens and Cambridge Park, the most recent addition to Red Carnation Hotels is the newly refurbished, four-star the duke of richmond Hotel. The hotel’s lobby is now a striking and contemporary black and white space, which opens on to a chic new residents’ lounge with an ornate fireplace, while The Leopard Bar and Restaurant has a superb terrace for al fresco dining which overlooks the harbour and neighbouring islands. There’s also an outdoor heated pool and sun terrace where you can sit back and relax after a busy day exploring the delights of St Peter Port. Both hotels have all you need to enjoy a perfect stay in Guernsey. J the Old Government House Hotel and spa

St Ann’s Place, St Peter Port, Guernsey, Channel Islands, GY1 2NU Tel: +44 (0) 1481 724921; J the duke of richmond Hotel Cambridge Park, St Peter Port, Guernsey, Channel Islands, GY1 1UY Tel: +44 (0) 1481 726221;

Top: the duke of richmond Hotel's new lobby, terrace and suite. Above: the Old Government House Hotel and spa



Behind the scenes Beautiful and magnificent, impressive yet tranquil are just some of the words visitors have used to describe Chatsworth, but it’s the busy bustle of interesting activity behind-the-scenes that creates this picture-perfect stately home WORDS LUCY TOMLINSON




One of the most stunning rooms in all of Chatsworth is the Painted Hall. Above right: The south 'Sketch' gallery

all photos courtesy of chatsworth house and the duke and duchess of devonshire


pproached through 400 hectares of parkland, Chatsworth House is a vision of serenity at the heart of Derbyshire’s Peak District National Park. But like a swan gliding on a river, that gorgeous tranquillity conceals bustling activity, hidden from visitors enjoying one of England’s finest stately homes. Beneath Chatsworth’s half-a-hectare lead roof there are over 300 rooms, 17 staircases, 459 windows and 2,084 lightbulbs. Looking after this stately pile requires the services of housekeepers, plumbers, electricians, seamstresses and joiners. The priceless art objects contained within benefit from the care of curators, archivists, textile conservators and a photo librarian. And that is just the house – outside work gardeners, foresters, gamekeepers, stockmen, farmers, shepherds, river-keepers, brewers and land-agents. The farm shop employs butchers, bakers and fishmongers, and the restaurants have a busy staff of chefs and servers. Last but not least are the friendly faces of the front-of-house team and the guides. At the centre of this hive of activity are the present Duke and Duchess, busy working on their ‘masterplan’ for restoring, preserving and enhancing Chatsworth. A house as grand and busy as Chatsworth never truly sleeps: “There is never a moment when there isn’t a team here at Chatsworth. Even when we are tucked up in our beds we have pagers ready to go off if there is a flood or a fire,” says Christine Robinson, Head Housekeeper. Visitors enter Chatsworth House through the South Front and arrive in the extraordinary Painted Hall, a fitting opening to the 1st Duke’s grand project to build a palace fit to host King William III and Queen Mary II, whom he britain



helped bring to the throne during the Glorious Revolution of 1688, earning himself his ducal status. The royal pair never made their proposed visit, but the result was a magnificent State Apartment, which captures the baroque ethos of the time, infused with theatricality, illusions, painted decoration and whimsy. William and Mary were also the inspiration for the stunning collection of delftware vases – the fashion for which was started by their Majesties’ Dutch origins. The vases are housed in the Great Chamber, which was intended as a gathering place for those seeking an audience with the king and queen. The magnificent painted ceiling by Verrio contains a portrait of the 1st Duke’s Housekeeper Mrs Hackett. They apparently fell out and Verrio immortalised her in the classical scene as the vengeful Fate, Atropos. Current Head Housekeeper Christine need not fear any mischievous tributes from her hardworking and dedicated staff: “The visitor route is half-a-mile long, which all gets vacuumed and dusted every day. Some things require extra attention, for which we train the staff specially, but we also have specialist staff working with the Collections Team, looking after silverware and the boulle (woodwork inlaid with brass and tortoiseshell) and so on. One cache of precious treasures is in the State Bedchamber. This room houses the King’s Bed, which was reputedly made in 1723 for George II and was acquired by the 4th Duke as a perquisite in 1761. The bed is hung with crimson and gold and as the original curtains disintegrated in the sunlight, exact reproductions were made by Chatsworth’s in-house seamstresses, each one representing around 480 hours of handwork.



Christine’s day also revolves around long-term plans for the house, and the many annual events held there including Floribunda, the flower festival, and of course, Christmas. “At the moment I’m planning the Christmas opening. We have to start buying things and commissioning now, so we start our Christmas shopping early. “Then when we close after Christmas we have a fairly small window, until 10 March, to get the deep clean of the house done. That’s a military operation.” The behind-thescenes operations at Chatsworth might be a military operation now, but in times past the amount of servants required to keep the Cavendish family in comfort and luxury resembled a small army. Even so for much of the year, the family would be away, following a strict timetable of Ireland for the salmon fishing, Devonshire House in London for the Season, then to Bolton Abbey for the grouse shooting in August and then back to Chatsworth for a huge family gathering for Christmas, and New Year. The Prince of Wales quite often came for Twelfth Night, and the king came for the pheasant shoots. As well as guests, Chatsworth would have seen a huge influx of personal staff. There may have been up to 100 guests staying at any one time, and 150 servants looking after them, plus extra help drafted in from the village. Christine’s family were among those staff: “My grandmother was born on the estate. She started working here when she was 12. Her brother was the chauffeur to the 9th Duke, and was with him when they changed from horse and carriage to motorcar. The recipe I have for Chatsworth Christmas pudding has been passed down from my grandmother, and it's a family secret,” she says.

Hardwick was the founder of the Chatsworth Estate, along with her second husband, Sir William Cavendish. Bess served Elizabeth I as Lady of the Bedchamber. J Mary Queen of Scots was brought to Chatsworth several times as Elizabeth I’s prisoner. In the garden you can find ‘Queen Mary’s Bower’, a large stone dais where the captive queen took her exercise. J Kathleen ‘Kick’ Kennedy, sister to JFK, was married to the 10th Duke’s son. He was killed in action in WW2 and she died in a plane crash and is buried in Edensor village. J Keira Knightley starred as Elizabeth Bennett when Chatsworth appeared as Pemberley in Joe Wright’s 2005 film of Pride and Prejudice, and visited again as Georgiana, the wife of the 5th Duke, in the 2008 film The Duchess.

Above: The ceiling of the Painted Hall has a Louis Laguerre mural of the allegorical ascension of Julius Caesar. Facing page, top: The Sculpture Gallery; right: Chatsworth Library





Above left: The walls of the Oak Staircase are hung with portraits of the family, the British Monarchy and other dignitaries. Above right: The Great Dining Room was completed in 1832



Christine’s favourite room is the Library. Here guests would gather for dinner and admire the books, of which Chatsworth has nigh on 40,000, including precious first editions and the original works of philosopher Thomas Hobbes, who tutored the 2nd and 3rd Earls. There is a hidden door which leads to a secret spiral staircase, and in a side table can be found a bullet hole, a result of ‘friendly fire’ during WW2, when American infantry were stationed here. Next to the Library is the Dome Room, where the 6th Duke would assemble his guests to be partnered for dinner, manoeuvring them through the relatively small space in order to make a spectacular impression when they finally filed into the Great Dining Room for a nine-course dinner. This sumptuous room, lined in red silk, is dominated by the Great Chandelier and vast banks of silverware on the huge table. It takes a Collections Steward around 40 hours to polish the silver. During dinner, the room was lit by 48 candles and once they had burnt down to the end of the wick, dinner was finished, to be followed by music, charades and smoking (for the gentlemen only, of course!). The very first dinner held in the Great Dining Room was in honour of the 13-year-old Princess Victoria; her first banquet as an adult. Guests would have been served by butlers and footmen in full livery, bringing in course after course of elaborate dishes from kitchens supplied by the estate farms and parks, at a table decorated with flowers from the gardens and conservatories, and ice sculptures from the ice house. Today, the Duke and Duchess only use the Great Dining Room for very special occasions. Despite the rich history of Chatsworth, the house is no stranger to modernity. Christine adds: “The 12th Duke and

Duchess live here all the year round, and it is very much their family home. It reflects the taste and style of every occupant. The new works of art can be quite controversial, but I think the Duke likes that.” Traditionalists, however, will be pleased to know that during 2012 many of Chatsworth’s Old Masters, including Rembrandt, Da Vinci and Titian, are on display for the first time in 100 years. Another draw of Chatsworth is its wonderful gardens. The 1st Duke created the formal gardens, a stunning swathe of greenery, sliced through by the dramatic Cascade, a stone staircase rippling with water. The 4th Duke then commissioned Capability Brown to transform the garden in the fashionable naturalistic landscape style, while the 6th Duke hired Joseph Paxton, who built the Great Conservatory that supplied the house with fruit and flowers all year long. Paxton then went on to design the famous Crystal Palace. The site of the Great Conservatory now holds the maze, which is made of 1,209 English yews. It is a tribute to the hard work, commitment and passion of Chatsworth’s family and staff that it is one of England’s top visitor attractions and a source of inspiration to art and history lovers everywhere. In the words of Mary Keen, writing about the house: “The scale may be awesome and the window frames gilded, but the chickens cluck about the place and the work carries on.”

 Chatsworth is open every day until 23 December. The house is open from 11am-5.30pm (4.30pm last admission). The garden is open from 10.30am-5pm during summer months and 11am-6pm (5pm last admission) at all other times. For more information, entry prices and any changes to opening times, visit

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Then visit one of our stunning Then Then visit visit one one of of our our stunning stunning heritage cities, steeped in heritage heritage cities, cities, steeped steeped in in history and each offering history history and and each each offering offering unique experiences to suit all. unique unique experiences experiences to to suit suit all. all. Britain’s Heritage Cities are well served by air, road and DURHAM LINCOLN rail to make your visit easy and accessible.




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Britain’s Britain’s Heritage Heritage Cities Cities are are well served by air, well served by air, road road and and rail rail to to make make your your visit visit easy easy and and accessible. accessible. STRATFORD-UPON-AVON

23/07/2012 13:28:59


Over To You

Your letters

Do get in touch with your views about the country, your travels and the magazine OUR FAVOURITE LETTER

Liverpool From maritime origins to cultural capital, Liverpool is making its modern-day mark with an innovative variety of world-class museums, galleries and theatres, as well as a wealth of stunning architec ture and a spectacular and historic UNESCO World Heritag e waterfront

In 1911 my maternal grandparents emigrated from Wigan to Youngstown, NeW Lyrics Ohio where my mother was born FOr aN OLd grE at two years later. In 1931 my mother and Grandma Colwell sailed across the pond on the White Star Line’s RMS Baltic to vacation with several Lancashire relatives. Upon their entry to the Port of Liverpool via the River Mersey they took a photograph of the Three Graces – the Liver, the Cunard the tidal surge of the river Mersey is the lifeblood of and the Port of Liverpool buildings the city and the tang of the sea is never far away – which, except for The Beatles Museum now in the foreground, closely resembles the one featured on page 79 of BRITAIN magazine’s (Volume 80, Issue 4) article “Liverpool: New Lyrics for an Old Great.” HOW TO WRITE TO US Three years ago my wife and I visited Liverpool By post to: Your Letters, BRITAIN magazine, Liscartan House, 127-131 and toured many of the points of interest Sloane Street, London SW1X 9AS; or to: identified in the article, including St George’s Hall, Your Letters, BRITAIN magazine, 116 Liverpool Town Hall, Albert Dock and the very Ram Cat Alley, Suite 201, Seneca SC impressive Anglican Cathedral which you noted 29678, USA Or email the editor: as the largest in the UK. Your very well written article elicited many great memories  This issue, our favourite of our recent vacation letter wins two wonderful to the Greater books and our souvenir Liverpool edition of BRITAIN. All region. three celebrate The Queen's Diamond Jubilee. Thank you. Purchase your copy of William D Elizabeth – The Queen: A DeCicco, Diamond Jubilee Souvenir or Youngstown, the books at www. Ohio, USA WORDS Lucy tomLinson


pHOtO: Craig EaStON

e think we know Liverpool: brash, bright, King John (he of Magna Carta fame), precociously self-aware, by the middle of the 16th century the a loveable rogue of a population was still only around 500. place. But there is another Yet by the early 19th century, side to this more fascinating city that is friendly, than 40 per cent of the creative world’s trade and charming. Its wide passed through Liverpool’ streets lined s docks. with patrician architectu This rapid expansion, buoyed re testify to a time of great wealth, by and yet nowhere could be wealth (mainly from the more down-to-earth. Its slave trade) meant Liverpool worldwide influence is so became a bustling, cosmopoli pervasive that UNESCO tan place, eager to embrace described the area as the the new influences pouring supreme example of a commerci in from all over the world. al port at the time of Britain’s J B Priestley said of Liverpool: greatest global power. And “Here, emphatically, was almost every human being the English seaport second on the planet knows the only to London. The very words to at least one Beatles’ song... weight of stone emphasise d that fact. And even if the sun And yet it wasn’t always never seems to properly rise over it, I like a big city thus. Although the city was to founded as a borough in proclaim itself a big city 1207 by letters of patent at once.” This commitme from nt to the oversized was amply demonstra ted by the recent Sea m britain


079-084 BRas12 Liverpool_FIN

AL.indd 79

28/05/2012 12:44

By George

I expect you have had other letters regarding this but in the 10 things about the London Olympics feature [Volume 80, Issue 4] it says George V opened the games at Wembley in 1948. I was seven-years-old at the time and remember quite well that it was, of course, George VI. May I also say that I have not been back ‘home’ for the last 22 years, but this time your magazine really made me want to take the plunge and travel to London – so many things I had forgotten that I liked and gardens and houses to visit. Thank you for a really great magazine; it gets better each time. Brenda Storey (by email) BRITAIN REPLIES We did get a letter or two about this Brenda. Sorry for the error. And thanks also to Lawrence Buzard in Canton, Ohio, USA; Pam Anderson-Taplett in Culpeper, VA, USA; and Joan Tomlinson in Fort Lauderdale, USA for their particularly lovely letters on the same subject.

Next best thing

I am writing to congratulate you on the Jubilee edition of BRITAIN magazine [The Diamond Queen, Volume 80, Issue 4]. Although I have been a resident here (Australia) since 1964 it brought back many memories of being in the crowd for the then Princess Elizabeth’s wedding and the Coronation. We in Melbourne celebrated this momentous occasion by having a special afternoon tea with all the special goodies that the British are famous for, such as Welsh and Eccles THE OFFICI AL MAGAZINE cakes, Dundee Cake and Devonshire Teas. The venue was decorated with bunting and Union HM The Queen’s 60 glorious years Jacks and every one had a special hat. We were even greeted by a Welsh SECRET SOMERSET Miss in traditional Sunsets, cider,


A portrait of Elizabeth II  Inside Britain's

ATS we were jubilant and had a party to celebrate, as we knew that she could have served in any of the nation’s services. Many thanks for the great article and pictures. Mrs Ellis Robins,Wellington, USA BRITAIN REPLIES Thank you for the photographs of you in the ATS and of Princess Elizabeth in her uniform. Sadly we were unable to print them here, but have included one of Princess Elizabeth taken around the same time.

costume. It was the next best thing to being there. Barbara Alderton, Surrey Hills, Victoria, Australia

palaces  Royal memorabilia

folklore & festivals

OLIVER CROMWELL Hero or villain?

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I read your coverage of The Queen’s Diamond Jubilee [The Diamond Queen, Volume 80, Issue 4] with great interest and enjoyed Lisa Heighway’s selection of images for the exhibition, The Queen: 60 Photographs for 60 Years. I enclose a picture of Princess Elizabeth when she was a member of the ATS working in the motor pool. At the time I was serving in the ATS in the Middle East, stationed in Cairo. When we got the news that the Princess has chosen to serve in our


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Diamond Queen

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 COMPETITION WINNER Congratulations to Gillian Oakley from Kingswinford in the West Midlands, winner of the Grosvenor House competition. Gillian will feel like royalty with a two-night stay at one of the country's most iconic hotels, London's luxury Grosvenor House. BRITAIN




Beautiful Britain

viEW FROM AbOvE Breathtaking images taken by aerial photographer Jason Hawkes show Britain in a wonderful new way. Whether it’s man-made structures or natural landmarks, they offer a soaring perspective that we would never normally see. BRITAIN talks to the photographer about these beautiful images and the spectacular locations ■ ANGEL OF THE NORTH,


Standing an impressive 20-metres (66-feet) high, Antony Gormley’s The Angel of the North is visible for miles in all directions in north-east England. But seeing it from above offers a perfect view of one of its lovingly crafted features – the vast wings tilting slightly forwards at an angle of 35 degrees. This is to create a sense of embrace as the sculpture stretches out a warm welcome to all who see it. The Angel of the North celebrated its 14th birthday in 2012 and it’s worth recalling that while it was being constructed, it was considered a fairly controversial project. Since it was unveiled, however, it was quickly taken into the hearts of local people and now stands as one of the most popular pieces of public art in Britain. Many make the trip to see it up close. However, despite it’s scale, Jason says that it seemed, “Tiny from above. In fact, even though you know exactly where it is, it’s quite difficult to find. We had to drop down very low; I guess we are around 500 feet here, and shoot with a 200mm lens in order to get this good, strong crop.” It’s surprising to think that the Angel could ever appear tiny, however its wingspan, at 54 metres (177 feet) is similar to that of a jumbo jet, which look small when we have the reverse perspective, gazing up at planes from the ground.



■ FOUntainS abbEY, riPOn, nOrtH YOrKSHirE The ethereal beauty of Yorkshire’s landscape radiates from this photograph of Fountains Abbey. You could imagine Heathcliff wandering through this tranquil but haunting scene. The great, old Abbey looks as brittle as an intricately crafted model, while the surrounding trees, also robbed of their size, appear to replicate the rounded shrubs of heather that cover much of Yorkshire’s moorland. Fountains Abbey was built some 700 years before Emily Brontë’s famous novel was published. It was founded in 1132 and operated as an abbey for over 400 years, until the Dissolution of the Monasteries under the orders of Henry VIII. Not all of the Abbey’s architecture dates this far back. The tower, which stands highest in this image at 49 metres (160 feet), was added just before the Dissolution in the early 16th century. Nonetheless, its state of preservation is so remarkable that it was awarded UNESCO World Heritage Site status in 1986. Jason acknowledges the challenges of capturing the Abbey at breaking light: “I’m not often flying at this time of the morning, as dawn landscapes tend to be much hazier than the views you get at dusk, but on this occasion the air was crystal clear.” Previous page : The Angel of the North welcomes visitors to Gateshead. Left: The colours of Glastonbury Festival in Somerset. Above: Fountains Abbey in North Yorkshire. Right: The seaside city of Brighton and Hove

■ glaStOnbUrY FEStival, SOmErSEt When you imagine the world’s most famous music festival you might think of an enraptured crowd or a world-famous entertainer on stage at dusk. Yet by swooping high above the Glastonbury Festival Jason captured the vast scale of the event. The Somerset fields look showered in multicoloured confetti. Each coloured dot is, of course, one of the tens of thousands of tents, cars or stages that make up Glastonbury Festival. It was quite different in 1970 when the first festival was held here, with around 1,500 in attendance. As this picture demonstrates, it is a far larger affair today and the photographer felt the atmosphere from up above: “Even from so far away, the allure of the festival was still strong. There’s a tiny helicopter pad that is put up every year on the side of the site. I was hoping to land but we did not have time.”



■ brigHtOn PiEr, brigHtOn, EaSt SUSSEx It’s difficult to know what to look at first in this beautiful photograph of Brighton, which shows every border of the seaside city. The iconic pier looks like a scale model of a British funfair and the carousels are like red-and-white boiled sweets. The pier began life in 1823 as an Old Chain Pier that was primarily used as a landing stage for passenger ships that sailed from France. Following irreparable storm damage, construction of a new pier began. Costing an unprecedented £27,000 to build, it opened in a grand ceremony in May 1899. But cast your eyes up from the pier and you will see the small-but-perfectly formed metropolis that is affectionately known as ‘London-by-the-sea’. Less than half a million people live in Brighton, yet it is one of the ten most visited cities in Britain, hence the need for the hotels that form the picturesque border along the seafront. Look beyond them, and you can catch a tantalising glimpse of the undulating hills of East Sussex, providing an ideal contrast to the bustle of Brighton. Capturing this exciting city and historic seafront was a mixed experience for the photographer. “We shot this from a R44 helicopter, which is a small four-seater and uncomfortable after a few hours but it’s lovely flying along the coast. You can buzz around at any height you like,” he says, confirming that however pleasurable Brighton may be, it really is the seagulls who are having the most fun.

Beautiful Britain



■ the diana memorial, hyde park, london A contradiction of London is that while it’s one of the world’s most populous and modern cities, it’s also an area of rich green expanses. It’s home to eight Royal Parks and this photo captures the quiet peace of the Diana, Princess of Wales Memorial, a small part of the 350 acres that make up Hyde Park. The memorial fountain was opened in 2004, seven years after Diana’s death. It’s made up of 545 pieces of Cornish De Lank granite, chosen because it would reflect the sparkle of the water, as you can just make out where the sunlight catches it at the memorial’s widest point. It’s actually two separate streams of water, which flow and bubble in either direction from the fountain’s highest point, before meeting in a calm pool at the bottom. As a reminder of the Princess's openness, three bridges are in place so visitors can walk through the very middle of the memorial and be surrounded by it. Visitors to Hyde Park on the crisp, clear day this photograph was taken are both walking through it and standing by its edge, their long shadows giving us a more revealing glimpse of them than the overhead view provides.



Beautiful Britain

■ west somerset railway,

■ longleat maze,

“When you fly around the country, you constantly come across unusual sights – this one struck me from afar,” Jason told us about this picture, which seems to capture a bygone era. It is more akin to a painting of a steam train by Monet or Turner than a photograph taken in modern Britain. The West Somerset Railway closed in 1971 but reopened five years later as a heritage line. Now, passengers can enjoy the rolling pleasure of steam travel as they are taken on a journey along the Quantock Hills to the Bristol Channel coast. Although the steam train is in full motion, there is a magical stillness and serenity to it. The train’s chimney and windows are clear and unblurred, while the clouds of steam billowing into the air have the look of white candyfloss, their shadows reflecting onto the neat rows of wheat in the field.

No cheating! But how many people who find themselves lost in this pristine hedge maze in Wiltshire would delight in a copy of this photo in their hands to provide a clue as to their path to the middle? Usually, the main perspective you get of Longleat Maze is a high corridor of thick, green hedgeway, the only slightly elevated viewpoints being from the occasional bone-white bridge or the central observation tower. Compared to Britain’s other hedge mazes, Longleat’s is relatively young, created in 1975. The paths run for almost two miles. As tricky as it is to complete, it was equally challenging to photograph, explains Jason: “To get a good composition you have to get very close and it is often challenging as some places are surrounded by all sorts of things. At Longleat the house and zoo are very close by.”

minehead, somerset

warminster, wiltshire

Above: The Diana Memorial in London's Hyde Park. Above right: Picturesque West Somerset Railway. Right: The complex and lush green maze at Longleat



Beautiful Britain



Below: Start Point Lighthouse in Devon, designed by James Walker in 1836

To enjoy more than 100 beautiful aerial photographs and for an extraordinary new way to see the country, order your copy of Britain From Above Month by Month, by Jason Hawkes, published by DK and priced at £20. Visit for more information and to place your order. It is also available as a multi-touch eBook from the iBookstore.


We end at Start Point, although the name stands not for the beginning but for ‘steort’ the Anglo-Saxon word for tail. Appropriate, because from this dizzying angle, the peninsula looks like a prehistoric creature with a sharp, spiny tail that jets out far into the English Channel. Surrounding it, the clear, turquoisecoloured sea looks startlingly different from the darker tones we expect to surround Britain. Also, beside the shadows of the steep cliffs, you can just make out the glint of golden sand on the cove that’s bitten into the rock face. It’s easy to pay little attention to the architectural feature that’s the only manmade creation for miles around. While the peninsula is spectacular, it was once deadly; the rocks resulting in many shipwrecks in the 19th century. As a result, the Start Point Lighthouse was built in 1836. Look closely at the image and you can make out its Gothic structure and battlemented parapet. From this distance though, the 28-metre (92-foot) tower looks more like a chess piece than a resplendent beacon that's kept the Channel waters safe for over 150 years.







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he sunniest place in the UK, Jersey is a unique island – home to an array of stunning beaches and incredible scenery. Much has changed over the years; the island now boasts a wide range of luxury gastronomic delights in local restaurants, an endless choice of interesting and unusual activities, and tranquil top-quality spas in which you can relax and unwind. Whether you want to be properly pampered or prefer a more adrenaline-filled holiday, Jersey offers plenty to suit any traveller, and it’s just a short flight away. With over 45 square miles of pristine countryside and beach to be explored, Jersey is ideal for walkers and beachcombers alike. Explore scenic cliff paths, woodland and meandering lanes, and discover the island in your own time. Afterwards, relax in one of Jersey’s most renowned spas at the Grand Jersey Hotel & Spa, overlooking the iconic Elizabeth Castle that nestles in the shoreline of St Aubin’s Bay. The hotel offers spa days and packages to ensure you feel fully revitalised before hitting the shops in St Helier. Make sure you try Jersey’s renowned cuisine and local produce, available in an array of first-class eateries. There is a wide variety to choose from, including the Michelin-starred restaurant Tassili, at the Grand Jersey Hotel, plus the offerings of diverse beach-side cafés that overlook the stunning sea views. With a unique location comes a unique airline and Blue Islands, Jersey’s local airline, operates direct services from local UK airports. With no charges for credit cards, name or flight changes, and even excess baggage, it is the perfect way to travel if you’re looking for flexibility and excellent customer service to discover this beautiful island in style.

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For a great day out, visit this open air museum with a unique collection of buildings set in rural Worcestershire. Avoncroft Museum is home to over 27 different rescued and rebuilt structures, including the National Telephone Kiosk Collection. Tea Room . Shop . Play Area . Events . New Exhibition

Avoncroft Museum, Stoke Heath, Bromsgrove, Worcestershire B60 4JR. Tel: 01527 831363/831886

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the What to do ● Where to go ● What to buy Ettinger has unveiled an exciting collaboration with leading British tattoo artist, Saira Hunjan, also known as The Girl with the Golden Needle. Tel: 020 8877 1616;

one-man show Celebrated choreographer and performer Akram Khan is performing his acclaimed full-length solo, DESH, at Sadler's Wells, London, from 2-9 October. DESH is inspired by his homeland of Bangladesh and celebrates the resilience of the human spirit. After critically acclaimed collaborations with artists including Antony Gormley and inspirational designer Tim Yip, DESH is one of Khan’s most personal works, as he reconnects with his cultural roots.

photos: anish Kapoor/sadler's Wells/ettinger

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enjoy the colourful installation by olympic artist anish Kapoor or visit the newly reopened William Morris gallery over the coming months

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new works by anish Kapoor reveal a profound engagement with physical materials The Lisson Gallery has announced a major exhibition of new works by Orbit Tower creator Anish Kapoor from 10 October - 10 November. Spanning both the gallery’s spaces on Bell Street, London, the exciting

exhibition marks 30 years of the gallery working together with the Turner Prize-winning artist and provides an in-depth investigation of Kapoor’s most recent work.



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Beaufort Hotel 1-4



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Bed & Breakfast…and much more A 232-page guide to: • where to stay • what to do • where to visit in the UK & Ireland

The Beaufort Hotel, London On a quiet tree-line cul-de-sac, moments away from Harrods, you’ll find this modern and contemporary styled boutique hotel – one of London’s best! The Beaufort in Knightsbridge offers 29 individually styled and luxuriously appointed bedrooms. Guests have use of a complimentary Resident’s Bar between 3pm and 11pm each day (including Champagne) together with a complimentary Afternoon Cream Tea with home baked scones. The Knightsbridge Underground Station and museums of Victoria and Albert, Science and Natural History are also within 200 yards walk of the hotel.

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The Beaufort Hotel, London 33 Beaufort Gardens, London SW3 1PP

Tel: +44 (0)20 7584 5252 • Fax: +44(0)20 7589 2834 Email: 58 BRITAIN

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THE WHaT To do ● WHErE To go ● WHaT To buy

feast for the eyes The Pavilion of art & design (Pad) has become a worldwide recognised event, with three prestigious fairs in Paris, London and New york. Every year Pad brings together prominent international art dealers and is renowned for showcasing the most coveted and iconic pieces in the current market. Now in its sixth year, Pad London from 10-14 october welcomes 18 new exhibitors showcasing the best of modern art, design, decorative arts, photography and tribal art from 1860 to today.

Cotswolds art extravaganza Woodstock, near blenheim Palace, presents its annual art festival The ancient market town of Woodstock plays host to the Art in Woodstock festival from 27 October to 4 November, showcasing work by visiting professional artists and local talent. Woodstock will be transformed into a celebration of visual arts with 50 local, national and international artists exhibiting a variety of work throughout the town.

beautiful bronze

giant gateway

The Royal Academy of Arts in London is presenting a landmark exhibition in September celebrating the enduring historical, geographical and stylistic range of bronze, with works spanning 5,000 years.

The new £18.5 million visitor centre at the giant's Causeway is now open, giving visitors to Northern Ireland's only uNESCo World Heritage Site a complete experience to complement the mystery of the 38,000 basalt columns themselves. With panoramic rooftop views of the coastline, the award-winning building offers a new gateway to this iconic site.

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THE EdITor'S PICk The third Arundel Food Festival will take place from 20-28 october. Held throughout the pretty market town of arundel in West Sussex, famous for its historic castle and cathedral, it's part of a new breed of food festivals that are seeking to make a real difference in their

communities. arundel is uniquely positioned between the idyllic South downs and the sea, enabling it to provide some of the freshest and tastiest produce in the South East. The

whole town will be involved in the Festival’s events, many with an emphasis on sustainability. More than 40 stalls bringing together food and drink suppliers from across West Sussex will

showcase the fantastic produce to be found in the local area. Jonathan brantigan, Chair of the Festival, said: “There will also be opportunities to get out into the countryside and see behind the scenes

with vineyard visits; open days at local farms; wild food foraging; and even visits to your local light industrial estate to see where and how our food is manufactured.” www.arundelfood britain


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THE WHaT To do ● WHErE To go ● WHaT To buy

ibsen at the old vic olivier award-winning actress Sheridan Smith (Gavin & Stacey, Legally Blonde the musical) takes on one of theatre's most definitive and dramatic female roles in Ibsen’s seminal masterpiece Hedda Gabler at The old Vic. This fresh interpretation directed by anna Mackmin charts the complex character through the conflicts of 19th-century society. Sheridan is joined by a leading cast including adrian Scarborough (Upstairs Downstairs) and anne reid (Coronation Street). Tel: 0844 871 7628;

Jewel of Knightsbridge bulgari goes for a silver finish in central London The Bulgari Hotel & Resorts, London opened its doors to guests this summer in exclusive Knightsbridge. The theme throughout the 85-room hotel pays tribute to Bulgari’s silversmith origins and Britain’s manufacturing traditions. Tel: 0207 151 1010;

elegant affair The Winter Fine Art & Antiques Fair at Olympia, now in its 22nd year, returns from 12-18 November. Attracting over 24,000 visitors, the fair features around 140 exhibitors in an elegant setting and is a great place to pick up unique and highquality pieces. Tel: 0871 620 7062;

roll out the barrel The bFI continues its tour of britain on film with this lovely anthology of shorts devoted to that most traditional of national institutions: the public house. Roll Out the Barrel – The British Pub on Film, out now on dVd, is a fascinating collection of 19 films, made between 1944 and 1982. Tel: 020 7815 1350; britain


the What to do ● Where to go ● What to buy

Lieder in oxford this year’s oxford Lieder Festival runs from 12-27 october in britain’s oldest concert hall, the holywell Music room. the line-up includes a number of world-renowned singers making their first Festival appearance, including Sandrine Piau (12 oct) and alice Coote (26 oct). Familiar faces include Florian boesch (14 oct)and James gilchrist (19 oct). the Festival also includes a number of talented emerging singers including the winner of the song prize at the Cardiff Singer of the World competition, andrei bondarenko.

William Morris Gallery reopens a new view on the socialist pioneer, designer, craftsman and visionary The William Morris Gallery in Walthamstow, the place of his birth, has been transformed to create a new world-class destination and international centre of excellence for the study of Morris, where visitors can learn more about one of the foremost creative artists and original thinkers of the 19th century. Both the gallery and the gardens have now reopened and entry is free.

beLLe of britain after a meticulous restoration, orientexpress’ luxurious Northern belle train has welcomed a new carriage: duart, named after the Scottish castle on the Isle of Mull. departing from over 60 stations across the uK, Northern belle has a full schedule of day trips to historic cities, stately homes and prestigious sporting events, all offering an escape into the golden age of travel.

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The annual Goldsmiths’ Fair returns on 24-30 September and again on 2-7 October, where 180 jewellers and silversmiths present their latest designs.

the edItor'S PICK one of the best ways to explore britain's beautiful countryside is to stay in charming bed and breakfasts. to help you choose, why not browse through this new book, Bed & Breakfast ...and much more from bed and breakfast Nationwide? along with detailed information about



where to stay, what to do and where to go, this 232-page book has interesting travelogues, a tour of royal castles and palaces, and some ripping smugglers’ and literary yarns from

around the country. among its 650 inspected b&bs are those offering something different, such as fly fishing, and those that welcome dogs. £7.95 (inc P&P) Tel: 01255 672377

Wolsey Lodges have been welcoming b&b guests into their unique homes across the country for 30 years. the group's hosts are passionate about providing a level of luxury bed and

breakfast accommodation that is rarely experienced, and they can often be invaluable when it comes to offering guests advice on what to see and do in their local areas. www.

If calling Britain from overseas, dial your international code, then 44, and drop the first zero ●


Enjoy “Great British Railway Journeys” on a Railtrail quality escorted holiday. Roam by rail from scenic coastal branch lines to glorious Highlands. Experience amazing places, fascinating history and superb scenery. Discover even more with our “Heritage & Explorer” tours by train.

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Gardens in the grounds of The Abbey House built in the 16th century alongside Malmesbury Abbey

Hidden Wiltshire

Moonraker country

Wiltshire natives refer to themselves as ‘moonrakers', originating from a time when smuggling was big business in this sleepy county. Today the smugglers have gone but the white chalk horses, rolling countryside and pretty stone villages of years past remain in an England unchanged for generations WORDS jane gifford


lmost half of Wiltshire is designated an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, and it’s a large county. Situated in England’s mainly rural West Country, Wiltshire is made up of young rivers, medieval towns and villages, high plains and extensive rolling downs, all flanked with white horses and topped with old drovers’ roads where you can walk for miles under wide open skies. This pleasant green county is criss-crossed by over 8,200 paths for walkers and cyclists, as well as hundreds of bridleways. It encompasses numerous prehistoric hill-forts and hundreds of tumuli, those ancient burial mounds which dot the skyline all over the county. Picture-perfect manor houses and historical rural churches abound. And where there is an interesting church, there is usually an excellent country inn not far away. Potential paradise for the keen angler and you can spend hours relaxing on a riverbank, where the water is clear and fast moving and there are plenty of healthy fish. The water meadows are peaceful and just the rustle of wind in the willows and the occasional birdcall punctuate the silence. The downs, although not high, often completely block out the sound of traffic. They also block your mobile signal. But if you were to receive a text message, it would say “relax, you’re in Wiltshire”. You can catch a glimpse of some of Wiltshire’s deeper secrets through the window of a railway carriage or while driving on the main (and small) roads, that weave through the county, from which many tourist hotspots are well



sign-posted. Some of Britain’s most iconic and most loved visitor attractions are in Wiltshire. Clad in mystery, the prehistoric megaliths and stone circles of Stonehenge and Avebury may rekindle the pagan in you in Salisbury Plain. For early risers a surreal experience awaits on Longleat Estate as the lions on the Safari Park, safely penned, join in the morning chorus of birdsong. Not far away, hidden amongst the gentle wooded hills at the head of the River Stour are the lakeside walks and sweeping lawns of one of the most beautiful and famous gardens in Britain – Stourhead. Now cared for by the National Trust, somehow the gardens manage to absorb thousands of visitors each year and still retain their serenity. Signed from the M4, Bowood has been the family home of the Marquis of Lansdowne for the past 250 years. Here an adventure playground will entertain the children, leaving you time to appreciate the house and gardens. Two of Wiltshire’s most celebrated Cotswold villages are an easy drive away. Lacock on the River Avon (that’s the Malmesbury Avon) where William Henry Fox Talbot famously discovered the negative-positive process of photography at Lacock Abbey. And the charming village of Castle Combe, where the By Brook, a tributary of the Avon, glides under the old

photoS: © jane gifford/Steve BardenS/Loop iMageS/ SuperStock iLLuStration: SuSan BuLL

Hidden Wiltshire

Above: Wiltshire cottages. Facing page: (top) A cricket match being played with Salisbury Cathedral in the background; (bottom) Silbury Hill, the tallest prehistoric chalk mound in Europe

Wiltshire is made up of young rivers, medieval towns and villages, high plains and extensive rolling downs, all flanked with white horses and topped with old drovers’ roads



The Spire by William Golding adapted by Roger Spottiswoode The stage première of the novel about the men who built the spire on Salisbury Cathedral


A Salisbury Playhouse Production

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Hidden Wiltshire

bridge. You will discover that most Wiltshire towns and villages have a river at their heart. These two will be familiar from TV dramas and movies – Dr Doolittle and War Horse featured Castle Combe while Cranford, Pride and Prejudice and the Harry Potter films used Lacock. On route to Avebury from London, affluent Marlborough in the northeast of the county is famous for its school and is the market town most visitors associate with Wiltshire’s charms (the High Street’s market day is Wednesday and Saturday). The River Kennet, the other half of the Kennet and Avon Canal, rises on the Marlborough side of Salisbury Plain and flows east out of the county. Wilton House, in the south near Salisbury, has been the family home of the Earl and Countess of Pembroke for over 460 years. The house stands on the site of a 9th-century nunnery founded by Saxon King Alfred the Great. The neighbouring town of Wilton has a history going back 2,000 years and lays claim to the title Ancient Capital of Wessex. It is also said to have given its name to the county. ‘Wilton’ is of course synonymous with luxury woollen carpets too. In Wiltshire there was always plentiful water for the mills and plenty of excellent pasture for sheep. Most of the region’s considerable wealth came historically from wool.

Salisbury, Wiltshire’s only city, boasts a fabulous medieval cathedral, built from 1220, which still holds the record for the tallest spire in Britain. Not bad for a building constructed on marshland fed by three major rivers. There are some fine old houses on Cathedral Close. Leave by the North Gate to explore this attractive rural city. For a change of pace, seek out Heale House and its eight acres of beautiful riverside gardens, hidden away amongst the downs above Salisbury. The house is little changed since King Charles II hid here in 1651. Also well worth exploring is the Chalke Valley where watercress is still farmed and the Wylye Valley, where you can fish in Langford Lakes Nature Reserve. To best appreciate the full flavour of Wiltshire-proper, you must take your time. Many born here simply don’t see the need to travel much outside the county. Wiltshire natives refer to themselves as ‘moonrakers’, a name originating from the end of the 18th century when smuggling was big business. French brandy would pass through the county on its way from the

photoS: jane gifford/SuperStock

Salisbury boasts a fabulous medieval cathedral, built in 1220-1258, which still holds the record for the tallest spire in Britain

Above: Castle Combe. Below: Avebury stone circle and village



‘ENGLAND’S OLDEST INN’ 1189AD Legend has it the Crusaders stopped here for welcome refreshments. In the Middle Ages a ‘trip’ was not a journey but rather a resting place where such a journey could be broken. Carved into the rock connected with a labyrinth of sandstone caves at the foot of Nottingham Castle, visit Yorkey’s Lounge, the Haunted Snug, the Cursed Galleon, sit in Fertility Chair, play Ring the Bull, or book a tour of our famous cave cellars under the Castle (reservations required). Open: Sunday – Thursday 11am-11pm Friday & Saturday 11am – Midnight. Food Served Daily 11am -10pm. Children welcome until 7pm

Great Real Ales, & Great Food. Brewhouse Yard Nottingham NG1 6AD Tel No: 0115 9473171

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photoS: jane gifford

Hidden Wiltshire

south coast to the Midlands. Legend has it that one night the excise men caught the smugglers raking out contraband hidden in a village pond. Aware that ‘towny types’ considered all those with a Wiltshire accent to be stupid, the smugglers laid it on thick and, pointing to the moon’s reflection in the water, made out that they were attempting to rake out a cheese. Feeling greatly superior, the excise men left the yokels to their madness. There are two rivers with the name Avon in Wiltshire and, given that avon is an old Celtic word for river (afon still means river in Welsh), this can be confusing in a fashion greatly appealing to the local sense of humour. One Avon rises near Malmesbury in North Wilshire District and flows west through Bradford-on-Avon. The other rises in the Vale of Pewsey, where two tributaries, also both called the Avon, join forces and flow south towards Salisbury. So strictly speaking Wiltshire has several rivers named ‘River River’. You could avoid getting lost (at least when on the water) by hiring a narrowboat. Enjoy slowly gliding through the countryside along the Kennet and Avon Canal. The 29 lock-gates at Caen Hill near Devizes might present a challenge but Honeystreet, a tiny village on the canal, is a perfect place to moor up. You have a view of the White Horse on Pewsey Downs and you are alongside The Barge Inn, built in 1810 to coincide with the opening of the canal. Also, look out for summer crop circles in the Vale of Pewsey. Westbury White Horse (1778) is Wiltshire’s oldest, carved out of the chalk hillside below an Iron Age hill-fort. Not far

away is Bradford on Avon, a busy historical market town, where you can enjoy both the canal and the (Malmesbury) Avon. The old bridge spanning the river is the centre-piece of the town, featuring an 18th-century ‘lock up’ at one end. Nearby, Avoncliff aqueduct carries the canal over the river. In the neighbouring valley, medieval Iford Manor makes the perfect English country home. Renowned architect and garden designer Harold Peto thought so too. He chose Iford as the ideal location in which to settle down. Today’s owners have added delicious home-made cakes and cream teas and a summer music festival in the Cloisters to its charms.

Above: Heale House and the River Avon. Below: Westbury White Horse

Hidden Wiltshire

where we stayed in wonderFul wiltshire with more shades of green than can be put into words, wiltshire's countryside makes for blissfully peaceful driving. the small road to Drovers' Barn dips and weaves like a roller coaster designed for the ultra-relaxed. down a quiet field-framed and tree-lined street, drovers' barn is in a particularly lovely spot in the ancient and pretty village of shrewton. the barn sits in a large and idyllic garden in the grounds of its bigger sibling, a beautiful butter-coloured thatched cottage – family home to brian and Christian (owners of drovers' barn). the cottage has been in the family for three generations, each adding – very carefully – their own extra 'bit' to create what we see now: a beautiful home and a large garden with a small river meandering through it and teeming with flowers, a summerhouse and two friendly pigs. guests staying in drovers' barn can wander freely in the garden, which is framed by a wide variety of trees that provide much needed shade on a sunny day and, in a soft breeze, create a sound so similar to waves breaking on a beach that if you close your eyes you expect to feel the ocean lapping at your toes. the cottage may have been in the family for generations, but drovers' barn began life elsewhere as a cattle barn. brian purchased and rebuilt it using his skills as a conservationist builder. today it is decorated in english

Malmesbury, now a sleepy market town, was once of major importance. The first king of all England, King Athelstan, grandson of Alfred the Great, made Malmesbury his capital in 925. The present abbey with its impressive Norman porch dates from 1180. Neighbouring Abbey House – part 13th century, part Tudor – was rescued from ruin by the Pollard family in 1994. They have created a beautiful garden with some unexpected twists. Find Pan amongst the topiary and see the abbey ruins reflected in the cauldron. Close by is The Smoking Dog, one of numerous excellent country pubs in Wiltshire. Year round, Wiltshire always has something special to offer. From March to September the lanes are a floral paradise and cowslips and orchids, wild roses and honeysuckle mark the ebb and flow of the seasons. Wisteria flowers in cottage gardens in spring, old-fashioned English roses in summer. Hares box in the fields in March and in winter long avenues of trees stand out against the frosty plain. So if simply pottering about – known locally as ‘going for a bimble’ – appeals, then Wiltshire will not disappoint.

stonehenge news the ancient monument is to have a new visitor centre and galleries to the tune of £27 million. in autumn 2013, the new visitor facilities and galleries will open and the a344 will be closed to traffic. visitors will be taken to near the stones on a low-impact shuttle, with the option to disembark mid-way at a landscape viewpoint and walk to the stones from there. by summer 2014, the existing facilities and fencing near the stones will have been removed and restoration of

the landscape will be well underway. visitors will be able to walk and enjoy the wider landscape and other outstanding prehistoric monuments. throughout the construction, stonehenge will continue to welcome visitors as normal. an opening date for the new visitor building will be announced in 2013. For more information on the site visit and follow the links to stonehenge, ‘our plans’.

photo: © visitbritain

Wisteria f lowers in cottage gardens in spring, old-fashioned English roses in summer

country-cottage style with a wellstocked, whitewashed kitchen and display shelves stacked high with pretty pottery. a log burning stove, easy-to-use range, farmhouse kitchen table and comfortable traditional armchairs complete the main room, which is large enough to host four people comfortably. a middle room has twin beds and a large sleeping platform. the main bedroom is situated through the middle room and has French doors leading onto a sheltered seating area. the property has everything you need for a short or long break – including a charming claw-foot bathtub and separate shower cubicle in a good-sized family bathroom. the bathroom also houses an annexe room with washing machine, drier and storage area. even this room has been carefully crafted. in fact, the entire property has been so sympathetically decorated and guests are wonderfully well cared for (from the most delightful welcome basket to free wifi) that you’ll want to start planning your next visit before your first has ended. drovers' barn is a hideaways property – a family-owned cottage agency offering high-quality properties across the south of england, heart of england, Cotswolds, west Country and the south-west of england. For more information about the property, tel: +44 1747 828170 or visit

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Salisbury Cathedral


A privately owned,modern 22-bedroom hotel in the heart of Salisbury City Centre, comprising of a public bar, garden, meeting room and lounge area. Situated just a 5-minute walk from Salisbury Cathedral, with its tallest spire in Britain. The Cathedral Hotel is the perfect location in which to base yourself for a comfortable sight-seeing vacation in Wiltshire.







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Professor Glyn Edwards has been performing Punch and Judy shows for over 50 years. In this, Mr Punch’s 350th birthday year, he tells us about the show's origins and explains why this iconic British seaside symbol remains as popular as ever today Words SuSan BrookeS-MorriS


rofessor Glyn Edwards’ first memories of Punch and Judy are from seaside shows he saw in the late 1940s; “My father was an entertainer, so my mother and I would spend the summer season in a flat at Brighton. Apparently I used to plead with my mother to take me to the show under the pier three times a day. I enjoyed some performances more than others and eventually discovered that there were two professors who took turns to do the shows. “I was never impressed by people who said they didn’t like Punch and Judy shows. I knew it depended on the skill of the performer, not the characters. I became totally hooked by Mr Punch. His anarchic nature appealed to my rebellious streak and he seemed to me to be the embodiment of mischief.”

The first references to Mr Punch in Britain go much further back than Glyn’s earliest memories, some 350 years in fact. It was the diarist Samuel Pepys who stated, on 9 May 1662, that he had been “mighty pleased” by a puppet show he had seen in Covent Garden, which featured a raucous, irreverent hunchback character, with a pot belly and a wicked sense of humour called Pulcinella. It is from that Italian marionette that Mr Punch evolved, and it is from that diary entry that Mr Punch's birthday is now traditionally calculated. Glyn’s title of Professor may also have come from this era: King Charles II was a regular visitor to Covent Garden and it is said the king enjoyed the puppet shows so much that he passed a Royal Decree allowing Punch and Judy men to call themselves ‘Professor’. To this day Punch and Judy performers refer to themselves as Professors. In the early 18th century Punch and Judy shows were commonly found in theatres. They also appeared in the back rooms of taverns and within large tents at England’s annual agricultural events. The use of heavy canvas structures and a need for a number of marionette assistants made the shows expensive and cumbersome to mount and transport. In the latter part of the 18th century, therefore, companies began to use glove puppets instead and started performing in narrow lightweight booths utilising just one puppeteer. The performer usually had an assistant, known as a ‘bottler’, to gather a crowd and collect money in a bottle. In this revitalised form, shows travelled throughout the country and were performed on street corners in London. At this time, the rollicking red-nosed rascal also adapted, going from a stringed comedian who might say outrageous things, to a more aggressive glove puppet.

PhotoS: DavID Rann/thE PRInt collEctoR/alaMy

It was the diarist Samuel Pepys who stated, on 9 May 1662, that he had been “mighty pleased” by a puppet show

Britain Meets This page: Children watching a Punch and Judy show in a London street, 1936. Facing page: Professor Glyn Edwards with his puppets




Britain Meets

It is a simple and mischievous tale that remains genuinely funny and will no doubt continue to bring howls of laughter from appreciative audiences

Above: Punch and Judy show on the beach during the Old Leigh Regatta, Leigh-on-Sea, Essex



The advent of the railways brought travel to the masses and took crowds to the seaside. This led Punch and Judy to head for the lucrative coast too. They soon made themselves as much part of traditional British beach fun as sand castles, paddling and donkey rides. Glyn reports that it was Mr Punch’s popularity at the seaside that led to ‘Oh I do like to be beside the seaside’ becoming his unofficial theme song. By the late 1940s, there were Punch and Judy shows at nearly every British seaside resort. In the 1950s and 1960s, Punch and Judy remained popular at the seaside but began to spread to other locations again. Glyn recalls seeing Punch and Judy performed at the Festival of Britain in 1951. It was during the 1950s that he began to practise with puppets utilising a Punch and Judy set that his father had abandoned in the corner of his room. Glyn practised endlessly and found that he was able to work the puppets and the infamous swazzle which gives Punch his special high-pitched voice. It was in a London park in 1961 that Glyn did his first paid public performance. “I absolutely loved it. I could see the audience laughing and heard them respond each time one of the characters asked whether Mr Punch had been naughty. The more shows I did after that, the more I understood why Old Red Nose had survived so long.” Glyn was the youngest performer at the gathering in Covent Garden in 1962 where a plaque commemorating Mr Punch’s 300th birthday was unveiled. It is fitting therefore that Glyn, who now describes himself as a “Punch

and Judy activist, 68 on the outside, but with an 11-year-old at the controls,” is now involved in organising the celebrations to mark Mr Punch’s 350th birthday. There is a range of nationwide exhibitions and talks taking place and a new permanent seaside exhibition has opened at Brighton’s Fishing Museum. These events, all under the banner of ‘The Big Grin’ have been funded by the Heritage Lottery fund and some form part of the Cultural Olympiad. Such recognition highlights the enduring popularity of Britain’s iconic Punch and Judy show. Indeed when the Department of Culture, Media and Sport commissioned a project to identify Britain’s cultural treasures, Punch and Judy was announced as one of the first 12 icons of Englishness, ranked alongside a cup of tea and Stonehenge. To claims that Punch and Judy are no longer politically correct and are in decline, Glyn disagrees, saying “It is because Punch is a puppet not a human that he can get away with such outrageous behaviour. All the professors I know were fully booked for the Jubilee celebrations.” Whilst elements of the story, cast members and performance venues may have changed over time, Mr Punch’s triumphant catchphrase “That’s the way to do it” and the notorious “Oh no I didn’t Oh yes you did” banter have endured. Punch and Judy shows are a living social history, passed along the centuries by dedicated performers for the enjoyment of all. It is a simple and mischievous tale that remains genuinely funny and will no doubt continue to bring howls of laughter from appreciative audiences for many years to come. Happy 350th Birthday Mr Punch!

 If you would like to contact Professor Glyn Edwards, visit and for more detail about the history of Punch and Judy, visit

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Have a great day out and learn how Radar helped shape British history! Housed in the original WW II Operations block, the Museum traces the history of the RAF Air Defence Radar network from the Battle of Britain through the “Cold War” right up to today. Visit the actual “Cold War” Sector Radar Operations Room and RAF Coltishall Rooms plus much, much more for all the family! Crumbs Cafe & Picnic Area + FREE Guided Tours Allow at least 2 - 3 hours for your visit! Open Tuesday and Thursday, April to October + Second Saturday of every month all Year + Bank Holiday Mondays, April to October only From 10am to 5pm (the last Tour starts at 3pm) Adults - £6.00 Concessions/Groups - £5.00 Students/Teens [19 - 13] - £4.00 Child [12 - 7] - £2.00 Under 7 - FREE Tel: 01692 631485 99x129 ad:Layout 1 Registered Charity 1058887



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British Culture

Britain’s must-see museums From world-renowned greats to hidden gems, we've selected 27 museums across the country that tell the story of Britain’s past and its impact upon the world

The Great Court of the British Museum




ritain would be a very different place without its wonderful mix of magnificent museums, housed in some of our greatest and often most historic buildings. Take the impressive British Museum, the first national public archive in the world, which opened its doors to all ‘studious and curious persons’ in 1753. The core of today’s building was designed by Sir Robert Smirke (1780-1867) in 1823 and included galleries for classical sculpture and Assyrian antiquities. The building underwent a transformation in the 21st century following an architectural competition won by Lord Foster to create a new central space – Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II opened the newly glazed Great Court on 6 December 2000. The first museum in Britain was John Tradescant’s Ark in Lambeth. The Tradescants – father and son – were plant hunters. The father (1570-1638) was Royal Gardener to Charles I, and on his plant collecting travels he also picked up ‘curiosities’, which he brought back to his London home. The newly created museum included natural history objects as well as antiquities. Visitors were charged sixpence for entrance and it became known as the Ark. The collection was eventually inherited by Elias Ashmole, who set up the Ashmolean Museum in Oxford using Tradescant’s Ark. Outside the capital, great stately homes accommodate outstanding artifacts collected over the centuries as their then-wealthy owners explored the globe. As a result of these early collectors, along with a continued commitment to culture, Britain has the world’s best museums and galleries both great and small. Here we celebrate our favourites.



The British Museum London

A real-life encyclopaedia containing works relating to art, science, ancient history, archaeology and every sphere of human interest, this is simply one of the world’s great museums. First-time visitors often head to the Rosetta Stone, Parthenon Sculptures or the treasures of ancient Egypt, but one of the beauties of the British Museum is that it’s constantly changing. With over eight million items, the museum can only show a fraction of its vast collection at one time, so displays rotate regularly. There are, however, a number of permanent spaces including Clocks and Watches and Chinese Ceramic. No matter how many times you return to the world’s first public museum, there is always a new wonder to capture your imagination.; 020 7323 8299

National Football Museum Manchester

Moved from Preston to Manchester’s dazzling glass Urbis centre, the National Football Museum reopened in July 2012 with a host of new exhibits. The world’s most popular sport originated in Britain; take a look at the first-ever set of football rules from 1863. Alongside this and other treasures – such as the ball used in the 1966 World Cup final when England beat Germany – are interactive displays, like the ‘Pass Master’, which demonstrates how Beckham completes his famous pinpoint passes. www.; 0161 605 8200

British Culture

National Media Museum West Yorkshire

From original apparatus used by John Logie Baird (the Scotsman who invented the television) to the actual set of Wallace Gromit’s The\Wrong Trousers, complete with Wallace himself, there’s a rich variety to the 3.5 million items on display at this Bradford-based museum. Over eight floors it covers all aspects of British film, photography, television and more. Explore the traditional and interactive exhibits and wallow in nostalgia by seeing items from children’s TV shows of every era – from Morph to the Wombles – or visit the Kodak Gallery and see some of the world’s earliest photographs and cameras. One of Britain’s most eclectic, surprising and fascinating museums. 0844 856 3797;



Natural History Museum London

The soaring arches of the Central Hall provide such a splendid backdrop for the Natural History Museum that it would be easy to become instantly distracted by them. That is, if a huge diplodocus wasn’t standing over you as you first walk in. This 26-metre dinosaur skeleton and his more carnivorous friends are just part of the myriad of attractions on show here, as the museum delves into botany, geology, palaeontology and zoology. The newly developed Darwin Centre is a highlight, being home to tens of millions of preserved specimens, including an 8.62-metre long squid, known affectionately as Archie. Don't miss the Wildlife Garden – abundant with birds, bees and wildflowers.; 020 7942 5000



British Culture

The Fan Museum


Housed in a pair of authentically restored, 18th-century Grade-II listed buildings, the world’s first – and only – fan-devoted museum contains fabulous antique fans dating as far back as the 11th century. With more than 3,500 of these elegant objects accompanied by information on their purpose, from ceremonial tools to status symbols, the history of the fan is laid bare, right back to the Dark Ages. Take time to enjoy afternoon tea in the Orangery, it is a real treat.; 020 8305 1441

Fashion Museum


The collection at the Fashion Museum was started by costume designer and collector Doris Langley Moore – after she donated her vast collection of clothes to the city of Bath in 1963, (who originally named it the Museum of Costume). The collection is now three times its original size and includes 1940s swimming costumes, 19th-century dresses and its oldest items, gloves from 1600. There are entire sub-collections dedicated to maternity, mourning and pockets in this history of haute couture, not to mention glorious creations by the likes of Quant and McQueen.; 01225 477789

The Fitzwilliam Museum Cambridge

Hailed as one of the finest small museums in Europe, this treasure trove of rarities belonging to the University of Cambridge is housed in a splendid, 17th-century building, which opened to the public in 1848. On the lawns outside, you’ll find sculptures by the likes of Henry Moore, while inside the painting collection includes masterpieces by Constable, Picasso, Titian and Turner. William Hogarth's paintings depicting a satir ical social history of Britain are not to be missed. Antiques from ancient Egypt, Greece and Rome can also be discovered, as well as rare English coins and Thomas Hardy’s original manuscript for Jude The Obscure. The Fitzwilliam is among the world’s first public museums – and remains one of the most enchanting.; 01223 332900



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Would you . . . e like to walk in th ends? footsteps of leg Lord’s Tour & MuseuM Go behind the scenes at the Home of Cricket. Explore the players’ Dressing Rooms, famous Pavilion and J.P. Morgan Media Centre. The Museum has the largest cricket collection in the world, including the Ashes Urn. 020 7616 8595 | 84 BRITAIN

British Culture

Sir John Soane’s Museum


The Georgian architect and fine art collector’s home was designed not only as a place to live, but also as a setting for his collections of art and antiques. The building is filled with secret panels, Renaissance paintings and a sarcophagus. Sir John Soane intended that his house should be used to help and benefit students of art and architecture, a plan that is still fulfilled today with artists flocking to the museum for inspiration. The first Tuesday of every month hosts a candlelit evening tour.; 020 7405 2107

Avoncroft Museum


Plenty of museums allow you a glimpse into the past, but few allow you to physically step back into it. The Avoncroft Museum is comprised primarily of 25 buildings, rescued from developers and carefully restored to their original state. This now includes a fully functional windmill, a Tudor pub, an Edwardian showman’s wagon and a 100-year-old blacksmith's forge (that’s still in use today). The museum grounds are also home to a wildflower meadow, period gardens and the National Telephone Kiosk Collection. This is far more intriguing than it sounds, if only for the chance to get up close to a Tardis (or at least an original Glasgow Police box, upon which Dr Who’s Tardis was based). The Avoncroft Edwardian Tea Room is certainly well worth a visit, offering cake, cream teas or the more extensive offerings in the High Tea menu, often with produce from the museum's pretty period gardens.; 01527 831363

National Railway Museum


Over 300 years of railway history can be found at this popular museum, which holds some of the world’s most awe-inspiring trains. From the giant steam locomotive that is the Flying Scotsman to the opulence of Royal Train carriages, it’s an impressive collection of over 100 trains and 200 other items of rolling stock. You can even see the mechanics of a steam train at work in one of the daily demonstrations. Alongside the historic vehicles, the museum has an enlightening story to tell on how rail transport in Britain has helped to shape the modern world. The collection of railway advertising posters from decades ago is especially insightful.; 08448 153139

Museum of London


Between St Paul's and the Roman city wall remains is the perfect location for a place which tells the turbulent, bloody and brilliant history of Britain's capital. Given a £20 million rejuvenation in 2010, the museum covers prehistoric London, the Great Fire of 1666 and contains a Victorian walk where you can peer into shops, homes and a pub. Among the many thousands artefacts, maps and historic items of clothing (including a Roman leather bikini), the star of the show is the Lord Mayor's Stage Coach. Commissioned in 1757, it's still paraded through London annually but it's even better up close.; 020 7001 9844 britain


P1778 Visit Britain ad 99x129_Layout 1 31/07/2012 11:25 Page 1

Keeping coal mining alive NATIONAL COAL MINING MUSEUM

for England


thelstan Museum tells the history of Malmesbury, an attractive hill top town built to a Saxon road plan on the site of a 4,500 year old hill fort and the area of North Wiltshire that surrounds it. Malmesbury, which lies on the edge of the Cotswolds, is a great place for a family day out and Athelstan Museum, with its collection of artefacts and explanation of local history is the place to start.

Take a unique trip 140m underground to discover mining through the centuries. Explore fascinating galleries, exhibitions and historic colliery buildings.

We run a series of short term exhibitions so our displays are always changing; recently, for instance, we were showing J M W Turner’s drawings and paintings of Malmesbury. There are lots of interactive things for the children and our volunteers are always ready to explain and elaborate on our exhibits.

• Living history sessions • Tours and talks • Large café and shop • Pit ponies • Nature trail and picnic area • Seasonal family activities • Special exhibitions • Close to M1 J39 & J40 • Free car/coach parking

Malmesbury Lace is famous, as is the Abbey and there are a number of interesting old Malmesburians:- King Athelstan, first king of all England; Eilmer the flying monk over 1000 years ago; Thomas Hobbes, the renowned philosopher; Walter Powell M.P. who vanished at sea in a hot air balloon.

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British Culture

V&A Museum


From a writing box which belonged to Henry VIII to the playful Tippoo’s Tiger, the world’s largest applied art and design museum (named after Queen Victoria and Prince Albert) houses over 4.5 million richly varied objects. The jewellery gallery alone contains stunning creations from jewellers such as Cartier, Fabergé and Lalique. Until January 2013, the V&A also has a special exhibition on ballgowns, containing Princess Diana’s ‘Elvis Dress’ designed by Catherine Walker. A permanent highlight is the British Galleries 1500-1900, which cover the history of British design from Tudor times to the era of Queen Victoria.; 020 7942 2000

Imperial War Museum Duxford

National Museum of Scotland


In the ten months since it underwent a £47 million revamp in 2011, over two million people have made their way to Scotland's national museum, making it Britain's most visited museum outside of London in that time. Its collection is split across two joined buildings. One houses a range of items created in Scotland, from Lewis Chessmen of the 12th century to a preserved Dolly the Sheep (the first cloned mammal, in 1996). The other building is a wondrous archive of all the items that Scottish explorers, inventors and soldiers have brought back to the country on their travels. Together, they merge perfectly to tell the story of Scotland inside and out.; 0300 123 6789

Now the country's largest aviation museum, this site in Cambridgeshire once played a key role as an airfield in World Wars I and II, when it was used by both Britain’s RAF and the US Army Air Forces. Containing over 200 aircraft (as well as tanks, military vehicles and boats), the key attractions are the Battle of Britain exhibition, plus the award-winning architecture of the American Air Museum, designed by Sir Norman Foster. If you want to delve into Britain’s aviation history firsthand, however, you can even book a flight in a number of classic planes, including a 1930s Tiger Moth.; 01223 835 000

Science Museum


Every area of science is brought to life through some of Britain’s best interactive exhibitions at The Science Museum. Puffing Billy, the world’s oldest surviving steam locomotive, has a home here, while the Exploring Space gallery brings the story of human space travel to life through astronaut suits and the Apollo 10 space capsule. You might not think it possible, but here, even physics is inviting; the Launchpad gallery contains 50 interactive exhibitions and live experiments. Meanwhile, the adults-only Dana Centre offers free lectures and performance events at the cutting edge of science.; 020 7942 4000 britain





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Celebrate Britain’s big year with a visit to the River & Rowing Museum The River & Rowing Museum is situated on the banks of the River Thames. With three galleries dedicated to Rowing, Rivers and the history of Henley, and a constantly evolving calendar of temporary art and photography exhibitions. Mill Meadows Henley on Thames RG9 1BF

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British Culture

Cumberland Pencil Museum


Home to the world’s largest colouring pencil at 26-feet long, sketches from Raymond Briggs’ The Snowman and a full history of pencils and pencil-making unique to the area. The museum is housed in the Cumberland Pencil Factory's former canteen and offers visitors drawing workshops and demonstrations.; 017687 73626

National Motor Museum


From world land speed record-breakers – including the stylish British Bluebird of the 1960s – to Formula 1 cars and the earliest motor vehicles, there are 250 reasons to visit this museum in the picturesque village of Beaulieu. They’ve also added 50 James Bond vehicles to mark 007’s five decades on the silver screen. Bond in Motion includes cars that have featured in films starring every Bond from Sean Connery to Daniel Craig, including a 1964 Aston Martin DB5 and a Lotus Esprit S1. Our pick is the stately Rolls-Royce Phantom III used by Bond’s most famous villain – Auric Goldfinger.; 01590 612345

The Wedgwood Museum


A unique history of British design, fine art and industry is preserved in this beautiful collection of ceramics celebrating the world’s most famous potter. The galleries here tell the story of Josiah Wedgwood, and the company he founded more than two-and-a-half centuries ago. As well as being home to the Fairyland Lustre Leap-Frogging Elves Chalice Cup of 1916 and the Lobster Salad Bowl made in 1880, the museum has potters demonstrating their craft. After looking around, you can relax in the museum’s café, enjoying tea and cake on genuine Wedgwood china.; 01782 371902

British Golf Museum St Andrews

Located just a short swing away from the famed Old Course itself, this is a haven for anyone interested in the heritage of golf. The hand-written rules of golf from 1754 are on display and they still form the basis of the game today – albeit there are more now than the original 13. There are also trophies such as an Open Championship medal, feather golf balls from the 1800s and plenty on golfing fashion. Aptly, there’s also a look at Olympic golf before it makes its return in 2016. www.; 01334 460046

British Culture

editor's five picks 1 Bowes Museum Teesdale inside this magnificent 19th-century building you’ll find paintings by Goya, turner and canaletto alongside ceramics, tapestries, costumes and textiles created by voysey.; 01833 690606 2 Royal Albert Memorial Museum Exeter one of the best-curated collections in the country with extensive zoology collection, egyptian mummies, tibetan masks and locally created 16th-century silverware.; 01392 265 8583 3 River and Rowing Museum Oxfordshire Housed in an award-winning building, a broad programme of events and exhibitions celebrate the river thames, the sport of rowing and the town of Henley-on-thames.; 01491 415600 4 RAF Museum London and Shropshire royal Air force Museum occupies two sites and, although each offer a different experience, both tell the intriguing story of aviation from bi-planes to strike-jets.; 020 8205 2266 5 National Coal Mining Museum West Yorks A collection of buildings, displays and galleries that reveal the hidden world of mining through the centuries, telling the stories of mining methods and machinery, the miners and their families.; 01924 848 806

National Museum of Flight East Lothian

Fulfil the ambitions of any flight enthusiast by setting foot in the cockpit of the world’s most famous passenger plane: Concorde. Just 20 of the iconic – and supersonic – Anglo-French turbojets were ever built and, on retirement of the full fleet in 2003, one landed here at the National Museum of Flight. A guided tour around this mighty aeroplane is the key attraction, while surrounding displays explain the design and history of the plane. Away from Concorde, a Supermarine Spitfire from World War II can also be found here, the hangars containing a mix of military, civil and recreational aircraft that tell the full story of British 20th-century air travel.; 0300 123 6789



Ashmolean Museum of Art and Archaeology


The Ashmolean has built up an array of amazing artefacts since first opening in 1683 to display the curiosities given to the University of Oxford by Elias Ashmole. The first star attraction was the stuffed body of the last Dodo ever seen in Europe (although it became so worn that only the head and claw remain). Another highlight is the lantern belonging to Guy Fawkes.; 01865 278002

Jane Austen’s House Hampshire

The productivity of Jane Austen was directly linked to how happy she was in her family home, and it was at this 17th-century, red-brick house in Chawton where she lived for eight years that she wrote three of her novels in full (Emma, Persuasion and Mansfield Park). Displays include the author’s writing table, her jewellery and many of her music books. It’s the perfect place to see how this beloved British author lived, to take a turn around the garden and to learn all about daily life for the Austen family. 01420 83262; If calling Britain from overseas, dial your international code, then 44, and drop the first zero

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Solent Sky Museum showcases the history of aviation in Southampton and Solent area. Geographically this area was the most important area in the country, if not the world, for aircraft experimental and development work between 1908 and the late 1960s, the most famous being the Spitfire. We have 18 aircraft of various types, including the Spitfire and S6b. Our Engine Bay also has a good selection of engines. We welcome people aboard the Sandringham Flying Boat; and why not take a tour onto the flight deck. Or you can imagine that you are flying the Swift or Harrier Jump Jet while sitting in the cockpit.

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905-683-2838 • 1-800-265-2817 • or

Cotswold Village Gardens/Antiques and Malvern Flower Show 21 Sept – 01 Oct 2012 Join ALAN’S personalised mini-coach tour, staying in the Saxon Village of Winchcombe – $2289.00 Chelsea Flower Show and National Trust Gardens 18-30 May 2013 – “Have National Trust Pass - will travel” – superb gardener’s itinerary max 15 participants – $3889.00 Hampton Court Flower Show, Devon, Cornwall, Bath, Isle of Wight, 30 Jun – 14 July 2013 – $3989.00 Eden Project; Lost Gardens of Heligan; Osborne House; Highgrove (maybe); RHS Wisley: Kew Gardens See website www. for mini-coach itineraries and Summer Newsletter Carlson Wagonlit Travel Source REG #1090873

To book space call Julian +44 (0)20 7901 8013

BRITAIN’S CHOICE – discover fascinating heritage attractions


‘A Christmas Journey The Story of The Three Kings' at

BLENHEIM PALACE 10th November - 14th December 2012 (Wednesday to Sunday inclusive)

Southwark Cathedral is rich in beauty and history, formerly an Augustinian priory, now a magnificent cathedral with features, artworks and monuments old and new. Make your journey here.

London Bridge

Visit Living Crafts for Christmas 16th to 18th November Situated in the midst of the Oxfordshire Cotswolds

For Information Visit: or call 0800 849 6500

Britain’s Greatest Palace

DAILY SERVICES • Shop • Refectory • RECITALS • EVENTS 020 7367 6734 •

what will you Christmas at Lincoln Cathedral

Carols by Candlelight and the famous Lincoln Christmas Market John Ruskin said that “I have always held, and am prepared against all comers to maintain, that the Cathedral of Lincoln is out and out the most precious piece of architecture in the British Isles.� Why take his word for it? Come to the County of Captain John Smith and discover the very special pleasure that is Christmas in Lincoln. Join us for one of our services or come to visit.

discover? Fountains Abbey & Studley Royal Water Garden Ripon, North Yorkshire. Explore dramatic abbey ruins set within breathtaking Georgian Water Gardens. Open all year.

Adult entry only ÂŁ9 Under 5s and members go FREE

Daily guided roof and floor tours. Light refreshments are available from the Cloister Refectory. Buy your Christmas gifts and cards at the Cathedral Shop or on-line. Visit the website for detailed information and events or contact 01522 561600. Admission charges apply.

Call 01765 608888, download our FREE App or visit

7%B%0B)HEB[7%B%0B)HEB[3DJH © National Trust Images/Andrew Butler Registered charity number 205846

Inside the most famous bridge in the world

England’s most rural cathedral in Robin Hood county! ‘Everywhere around is an atmosphere of peace and in the Minster there’s one of prayer’ John Betjeman Southwell Minster • Church Street • Southwell NG25 0HD Telephone: 01636 812649

Enjoy breathtaking views of London from the Bridge’s Walkways. Experience the beautiful Victorian Engine Rooms. Enter and be amazed. Prices: Adults £8.00 Children £3.40 Concessions £5.60 Under 5s FREE Contact: 020 3627 2351 Tower Bridge is provided by the City of London Corporation - a uniquely diverse organisation in that it not only promotes and supports the city and provides it with a full range of services, but also provides wider services for London and for the nation as a whole.

To book space call Julian +44 (0)20 7901 8013

BRITAIN’S CHOICE – favourite destinations to explore The Arts Advert 129x99mm_Layout 1 28/06/2012 15:29 Page 1



ely visit


Oliver Cromwell’s House Visit the former Lord Protector’s family home. Experience what domestic life would have been like in the 17th Century in a variety of re-created period rooms as well an exhibition detailing the Civil War. Visit Mrs Cromwell’s kitchen, try dressing-up or playing with the toys of the time or venture into the Haunted Bedroom if you dare! Audio handsets bring the story of this impressive House to life. Guided tours and group visits welcome. Also Gift Shop and Tourist Information Centre.

For further enquiries check out our website at or call 01353 662062.

20 minutes from Waterloo 20 MINUTES

F R O M W AT E R L O O Dine. Shop. Stay. Escape.

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Village lanes & boutiques Pubs, restaurants & hotels Twickenham Stadium London Wetland Centre Kew Gardens, Richmond Park & Hampton Court Palace

Richmond upon Thames W W W. V I S I T R I C H M O N D . C O . U K

You can stop wondering what to do in Scotland. The National Trust for Scotland cares for many of Scotland’s treasures – from gardens and mountains to castles, museums and battle sites. Explore Scotland’s heritage in 2012! To help plan your holiday, pick up our free guide or call 0844 493 2100 for your copy.

South Somerset Rural England at its best!

• Stunning views. • Vibrant market towns and villages. • Flavours to delight. All just waiting to be explored.

For a FREE brochure call

01935 462781

The National Trust for Scotland for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty is a charity registered in Scotland, Charity Number SC 007410

Shetland 6000 years of history starts here .... Visit Shetland Museum and Archives and explore the unique heritage and culture of these beautiful islands

Anglesey is a place where you can get away from it all. Relax, enjoy the hospitality and lose yourself in the island’s winding lanes or on its spectacular coast.

Isle of Anglesey County Council, Llangefni, Anglesey LL77 7TW T: 01248 713177 E:

Shetland Museum and Archives Hay’s Dock, Lerwick, Shetland ZE1 0WP Tel: 01595 695057

Visiting Shetland? Stay in your own personal lighthouse .....

To book space call Julian +44 (0)20 7901 8013

Britain’s Top Ten

10 Things...

About Britain’s heroes and heroines We know and love them, they shaped history with their daring deeds, but they had some unusual stories up their sleeves. BRITAIN brings you the weird and wonderful facts about Britain’s heroes and heroines The beat goes on

The first Englishman to circumnavigate the globe, Sir Francis Drake left an often forgotten legacy: his drum, which it’s said will beat of its own accord to summon the Elizabethan sea dog back from the dead should England be in danger. It’s kept at his former home, Buckland Abbey in Devon.


Grace Darling survived raging seas when she rowed to help survivors of the wrecked SS Forfarshire off the Bamburgh coast in 1838, but overnight celebrity threatened to engulf her. So many fans requested locks of the 22-year-old’s hair that her family feared she would need a wig. Grace died of consumption four years after the dramatic rescue, further guaranteeing her status as a Victorian heroine.

The royal wee

Queen Elizabeth I was the mistress of spin and iconic imagery, as shown by the glorious Armada Portrait of her after she faced down Spanish invasion. Desperate to resist the ravages of time and live up to her public persona, Gloriana included the application of urine to the royal face as an anti-wrinkle treatment.



Wave of popularity


Engineered to last

Isambard Kingdom Brunel was a genius of the ‘heroic age of engineering’. Just as well. When entertaining his children with conjuring tricks in 1843, he accidentally swallowed a halfsovereign, which lodged in his windpipe. He quickly knocked up a board pivoted between two uprights, strapped himself in, spun rapidly head over heels – and the coin was expelled by the centrifugal force.

Heads you lose

Flamboyant explorer Sir Walter Ralegh was a man of many parts, naming Virginia for Elizabeth I and popularising pipesmoking at court. While in the Tower of London for treason, he conducted Whirring cogs chemical experiments in a shed, grew Computer pioneer and key Cartoon of the British General known as the Iron Duke of Wellington tobacco on Tower Green and wrote his wartime code-breaker Alan History of the World. After Ralegh was Turing was nothing if not eccentric. He cycled character. One day, on finding a boy sobbing executed in 1618, his wife kept one part of to work at top-secret Bletchley Park on a bike because he had to go away to school and had him in a bag: his embalmed head. whose chain came off at regular intervals, but no one to care for his pet toad, Wellington instead of mending it, he counted the number offered his services. He even sent a report of of times the pedals went round and got off in the toad’s wellbeing to the tearful child. Up, down, in, out time to adjust the chain by hand. Sir Isaac Newton discovered the principle of gravity and defined force Patients and pies in his laws of motion. He is also credited with Florence Nightingale, the Lady with Another brick in the wall inventing the cat flap, enabling grateful felines the Lamp who tended British troops Sir Winston Churchill was an around the country to come and go from their in the Crimean War and pioneered modern expert bricklayer and a qualified homes as they please. nursing, was a gifted mathematician. She was member of the Amalgamated Union of the first woman to be elected to the Royal Bricklayers. In his spare time at his home in Statistical Society and is credited with Kent, he laid a brick wall around the vegetable Toadally soft inventing the pie chart (nothing to do with garden. With a trowel in one hand and cigar in The Iron Duke of Wellington, who over-eating, of course, which would be the other, he proved a dab hand at constructing defeated Napoleon at Waterloo in detrimental to health). a goldfish pond and swimming pool too. 1818, appears to have had a soft side to his


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phoTo: MARy evANs pIcTuRe lIBRARy/AlAMy


WORDS Neil JoNes


Luxury Leather Goods and Accessories Hand Crafted in the United Kingdom Tel: +44 (0)20 8877 1616

September October Britain 2012