w w w. c h e f p u b l i s h i n g . c o m
The Journal for Chefs ThroughouT The world
Daniel Galmiche WITH A beautiful fjorD trout Win a copy of ModernisT
The colours and spices of
Issue Jan/Feb 2016 Â£5.00
Wine trenDs for 2017
Norwegian cod at its very best. Only from January to April, Norwegian nature brings you the finest Skrei. Norway has a long and proud seafaring heritage stretching back thousands of years, and its people have rightly earned a reputation for harvesting some of the finest seafood in the world. But every winter, something remarkable happens off Norway’s northern reaches that gives its fishing communities – and seafood lovers everywhere – particular cause for celebration. Driven by instinct, great multitudes of cod return from the depths of the Barents Sea to their original spawning grounds around the islands of Vesterålen and Lofoten. The cod arrive in their prime, groomed to perfection by their epic 1000km swim through freezing, turbulent waters.
This heroic journey gives them incredible flesh that’s unsurpassed in taste and texture, flaking off in sumptuous meaty chunks. The day boat’s catch is carefully monitored in line with Norway’s impeccable sustainability standards. It must be in pristine condition, caught only between January and April from recognised grounds and shipped within 12 hours by trained packers. Only then does it earn the title Skrei, an old Norse word meaning ‘wanderer’. Supply is limited. But try Skrei this year, and you’ll get a taste of what is surely the most delicious cod in the world. Ritter Fresh, Direct Seafoods and Le Lien are among the UK suppliers listing Skrei.
Butter-Fried Skrei with Broccoli and Hazelnuts Simple but delicious – this pan-fried Skrei recipe ticks all the right boxes, with a buttery flavour and a hazelnut crunch. Serves 4 Ingredients 4 Skrei fillets without skin, 150g each 2 litres brine (10%) 2tbsp cooking oil 100ml hazelnuts, peeled 1 head of broccoli 6tbsp butter 4tbsp fir oil (see step 2) 1-2tsp lemon juice
1 Clean the Skrei fillets and place in brining liquid for 30 minutes, then rinse carefully. Pat the Skrei dry and store in a fridge until ready to cook. This can be done the day before. 2 To make the fir oil, mix 100ml pine needles with 200ml oil and filter through coffee filter paper. If you have no pine needles handy, rapeseed oil is fine.
5 Fry the Skrei in 2tbsp cooking oil. After 1 minute, add 2tbsp butter and continue to cook for 2 minutes. Then turn and cook for a further 3. 6 Cover the pan with a lid, remove from the heat, and rest for 6 minutes. Time will vary depending on the thickness of the fillet, but whitefish is perfect at 38°C, so don’t be afraid to undercook it.
3 Toast the hazelnuts in a deep frying pan and chop coarsely.
7 Brown the remaining butter, mix with the fir oil and season with salt and lemon juice.
4 Cut the broccoli in four and boil in well-salted water for 4 minutes until soft. Keep warm.
8 Serve the Skrei with broccoli in four bowls. Garnish with the nuts and brown butter.
Contents Industry topIc
Service Charge: The Debate Rumbles on
It’s been a Rock ’n Roll Year ................ 10 Industry topIc
Jerome Bocuse: I don’t cook right now .......................................................... 12 talk to the chef
Daniel Galmiche with Greig Young at The Gore, London ...... 18 IngredIent
Norwegian Fjord Trout ............................. 22 talk to the chef
The Pic of the Bunch ................................. 24
The WhiTe Table •
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featured plate Botanique - part of the chef plates collection of tableware
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India .................................................................... 31 ganache By sImon JenkIns
My first year as a consultant Chef ... 42 IngredIent
Rosso Di Mazara wild red prawns ... 46 IngredIent
Axuria milk fed lamb ................................ 48 IngredIent
Flour .................................................................... 51 modernIst cuIsIne: competItIon
WIN your copy of Modernist Cuisine worth Â£425.00 ............................. 54 meet the supplIer: pIdy gourmet
A pastry tour of Europe in less than 48 hours!............................................... 60 front of house
WINE TRENDS FoR 2017 ......................... 66 News ................................................................... 68 3
Recipes danIel galmIche
Mi-cuit Norwegian Fjord Trout With Grilled Courgettes and Sauce Vierge ........................................ 23 anne-sophIe pIc
Gillardeau oysters with Irish Coffee and creamy Jerusalem artichoke .......... 29 prem kumar. pogakula
Tandoori Lamb .............................................. 41 sImon JenkIns
Rhubarb, Raspberry, Champagne ..... 44 danIel galmIche
Pan Roasted Prawns with Coriander .............................................. 47 danIel galmIche
Shoulder of milk fed lamb with courgette, black garlic and cevenes onion ............................................... 49 stéphane glacIer, meIlleur ouvrIer de france pâtIssIer
Chou Crumble with red Berries .......... 52 CHEF JOURNAL Network House 28 Ballmoore Celtic Court Buckingam MK 18 1RQ Tel: 44 20 7097 1396 For general enquiries regarding Chef Journal email: email@example.com ACCOUNTS AND ADMINISTRATION Lesya Grebenyuk
PHOTOGRAPHY Peter Marshall Geoff Dann Kuma Masahi Steve Lee Francesco Tonelli DESIGNER, ART EDITOR Zoran Simonovski firstname.lastname@example.org
SALES email: email@example.com CONTRIBUTORS Namai Bishop Simon Jenkins Andy Lynes Josh Sims Jean Smullen Regis Crepy Andrew Scott
PUBLISHER Peter Marshall
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MICHELIN GUIDE 2017 LONDON
Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester Jocelyn Herland www.alainducasse-dorchester.com
Alyn Williams at The Westbury Alyn Williams www.alynwilliams.com
Gordon Ramsay Matt Abé www.gordonramsayrestaurants. com/restaurant-gordon-ramsay
Amaya Karunesh Khanna www.amaya.biz
Ametsa Elena Arzak www.comohotels.com/thehalkin/ dining/ametsa
Dabbous Ollie Dabbous www.dabbous.co.uk
Kitchen Table at Bubbledogs James Knappett www.kitchentablelondon.co.uk
Quilon Sriram Aylur www.quilon.co.uk
Dining Room at the Goring Shay Cooper www.thegoring.com
Kitchen W8 Mark Kempson www.kitchenw8.com
Ritz Restaurant John Williams www.theritzlondon.com
L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon Oliver Limousin www.joelrobuchon.co.uk
River Café Rose Gray www.rivercafe.co.uk
La Trompette Anthony Boyd www.latrompette.co.uk
Seven Park Place William Drabble www.stjameshotelandclub.com/ restaurant-piccadilly
Fera at Claridge’s Simon Rogan www.feraatclaridges.co.uk Five Fields www.fivefieldsrestaurant.com Galvin at Windows Jeff Galvin www.galvinatwindows.com
Lima Fitzrovia Robert Ortiz www.limalondongroup.com/fitzrovia
Araki Mitsuhiro Araki www.the-araki.com
Angler Tony Fleming www.anglerrestaurant.com
Dinner by Heston Blumenthal Ashley Palmer-Watts www.dinnerbyheston.com
Barrafina Nieves Barragán Mohacho www.barrafina.co.uk
Galvin La Chapelle Jeff Galvin www.galvinrestaurants.com/ section/61/1/galvin-la-chapelle
Greenhouse Arnaud Bignon www.greenhouserestaurant.co.uk
Benares Atul Kochhar www.benaresrestaurant.com
Bonhams Tom Kemble www.bonhams.com/locations/BS
Hakkasan Hanway Place Tong Chee Hwee www.hakkasan.com/locations/ hakkasan-hanway-place
Le Gavroche Michel Roux Jr www.le-gavroche.co.uk
Céleste Florian Favario www.lanesborough.com/eng/ restaurant-bars/celeste
Hakkasan Mayfair Tong Chee Hwee www.hakkasan.com/locations/ hakkasan-mayfair
Ledbury Brett Graham www.theledbury.com
Chez Bruce Bruce Poole www.chezbruce.co.uk
Harwood Arms Barry Fitzgerald www.harwoodarms.com
City Social Jason Atherton www.citysociallondon.com
Hedone Mikael Jonsson www.hedonerestaurant.com
Pied à Terre Marcus Eaves www.pied-a-terre.co.uk
Sketch (The Lecture Room & Library) Pierre Gagnaire www.sketch.london/#gsc.tab=0
Clove Club Isaac McHale www.thecloveclub.com
HKK Tong Chee Hwee www.hkklondon.com
Pollen Street Social Jason Atherton www.pollenstreetsocial.com
Umu Yoshinori Ishii www.umurestaurant.com
Club Gascon Pascal Aussignac www.clubgascon.com/about.php
Kai Alex Chow www.kaimayfair.co.uk
Portland Merlin Labron-Johnson www.portlandrestaurant.co.uk
Hélène Darroze at The Connaught Hélène Darroze www.the-connaught.co.uk/mayfairrestaurants/helene-darroze
Marcus Umu www.marcus-wareing.com
The CHEF BOOK
Locanda Locatelli Giorgio Locatelli www.locandalocatelli.com Lyle's James Lowe www.lyleslondon.com Murano Angela Hartnett www.muranolondon.com Outlaw's at the Capital Nathan Outlaw www.capitalhotel.co.uk/dining Pétrus Larry Jayasekara www.gordonramsayrestaurants. com/petrus
Social Eating House Jason Atherton www.socialeatinghouse.com St John Chris Gillard www.stjohngroup.uk.com Story Tom Sellers www.restaurantstory.co.uk Tamarind Alfred Prasad www.tamarindrestaurant.com Texture Agnar Sverrisson www.texture-restaurant.co.uk The Glasshouse www.glasshouserestaurant.co.uk The Ninth www.theninthlondon.com Trinity www.trinityrestaurant.co.uk Trishna Karam Sethi www.trishnalondon.com Veeraswamy www.veeraswamy.com Yauatcha Soho Cheong Wah Soon www.yauatcha.com
Inspiration for a Michelin Star Chef “This book is a treasure-trove of great food. A veritable anthology of some of the world’s best chefs and their recipes including Paul Bocuse, the Roux family , Anton Mosimann and Thomas Keller and many of the new stars of today such as Sat Bains, Jason Atherton and Daniel Humm. In total there are 114 chefs featured in this amazing collection. The photography is a work of art and the recipes are as diverse as the chefs featured.” Nico Ladenis
Available from www.chefpublishing.com
MICHELIN GUIDE 2017 Birmingham
City of Edinburgh
Albannach Colin Craig www.thealbannach.co.uk
Fat Duck Heston Blumenthal www.thefatduck.co.uk
Waterside Inn "Alain Roux & Fabrice Uhryn" www.waterside-inn.co.uk
UNITED KINGDOM Perth
Andrew Fairlie at Gleneagles Andrew Fairlie www.andrewfairlie.co.uk
Belmond Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons Gary Jones www.belmond.com/le-manoir-auxquat-saisons-oxfordshire
Gidleigh Park Michael Wignall gidleigh.co.uk
Hand and Flowers Tom Kerridge www.thehandandflowers.co.uk
L’Enclume Simon Rogan www.lenclume.co.uk
Le Champignon Sauvage David Everitt-Matthias www.lechampignonsauvage.co.uk
Midsummer House Daniel Cliford www.midsummerhouse.co.uk
Adam's Adam Stokes www.adamsrestaurant.co.uk
Alimentum Patron Mark Poynton restaurantalimentum.co.uk
Black Rat John Marsden-Jones www.theblackrat.co.uk
Hambleton Hall Aaron Patterson www.hambletonhall.com
Black Swan Tommy Banks hwww.blackswanoldstead.co.uk
Harrow at Little Bedwyn Roger Jones www.theharrowatlittlebedwyn.com
Boath House Charlie Lockley www.boath-house.com
Hinds Head Kevin Love www.hindsheadbray.com
Channel Islands - St. Helier
Newcastle Upon Tyne
Bohemia Steve Smith www.bohemiajersey.com
House of Tides Kenny Atkinson www.houseoftides.co.uk
Argyll & Bute
Butchers Arms James Winter www.thebutchersarms.net
Restaurant Sat Bains Sat Bains www.restaurantsatbains.com
The Dining Room at Whatley Manor Martin Burge www.whatleymanor.com/restaurantsand-bars/the-dining-room
Channel Islands - La Pulente
Carters of Moseley Brad Carter cartersofmoseley.co.uk
Casamia Jon Ray & Peter Sanchez www.casamiarestaurant.co.uk
Isle of Eriska Paul Leonard www.eriska-hotel.co.uk John's House John Duffin www.johnshouse.co.uk
JSW Jake Saul Watkins jswrestaurant.com
Kinloch Lodge Marcello Tully www.kinloch-lodge.co.uk
City of Edinburgh Kitchin Tom Kitchin www.thekitchin.com
L’Ortolan Tom Clarke www.lortolan.com
Bourton-on-the-Water Lords of the Manor Richard Picard-Edwards www.lordsofthemanor.com
Cross at Kenilworth Adam Bennett www.thecrosskenilworth.co.uk
City of Edinburgh
Braidwoods Keith Braidwood www.braidwoods.co.uk
Number One Jeff Bland www.roccofortehotels.com Nut Tree Mike North www.nuttreeinn.co.uk
Bath Priory www.thebathpriory.co.uk
Box Tree Simon Gueller www.theboxtree.co.uk
Northcote Nigel Haworth www.northcote.com
Gilpin Hotel & Lake House www.thegilpin.co.uk Gravetye Manor George Blogg www.gravetyemanor.co.uk
Raby Hunt James Close www.rabyhuntrestaurant.co.uk Restaurant Nathan Outlaw Nathan Outlaw www.nathan-outlaw.com
Fraiche Marc Wilkinson www.restaurantfraiche.com
Bybrook at Manor House Hotel Rob Potter www.exclusive.co.uk/the-manorhouse/restaurants-bars/thebybrook
Forest Side Kevin Tickle www.theforestside.com
Martin Wishart www.martin-wishart.co.uk
Ocean Mark Jordan www.theatlantichotel.com/dining/ ocean-restaurant
Channel Islands - St. Helier Ormer by Shaun Rankin Shaun Rankin www.ormerjersey.com
Outlaw's Fish Kitchen Nathan Outlaw www.outlaws.co.uk/fishkitchen
Patrick Guilbaud Patrick Guilbaud www.restaurantpatrickguilbaud.ie
Paul Ainsworth at No.6 Paul Ainsworth www.paul-ainsworth.co.uk
Hampton in Arden
Peel's at Hampton Manor Hotel Rob Palmer hamptonmanor.com
Pipe and Glass Inn James Mackenzie www.pipeandglass.co.uk
The Elephant Simon Hulstone www.elephantrestaurant.co.uk
The Man Behind the Curtain Michael O'Hare www.themanbehindthecurtain.co.uk
The Neptune Kevin Mangeolles heneptune.co.uk
The Peat Inn Geoffrey Smeddle www.thepeatinn.co.uk
The Samling Nick Edgar www.thesamlinghotel.co.uk
The Sportsman Stephen Harris www.thesportsmanseasalter.co.uk
The Wild Rabbit Tim Allen www.thewildrabbit.co.uk
Purnell’s Glynn Purnell www.purnellsrestaurant.com
Treby Arms Anton Piotrowski www.thetrebyarms.co.uk
Red Lion Freehouse Guy Manning www.redlionfreehouse.com
Restaurant Hywel Jones by Lucknam Park Howell Jones www.lucknampark.co.uk/dining/ chefs-at-lucknam
Restaurant Tristan Tristan Mason www.restauranttristan.co.uk
Royal Oak Don Chapman www.theroyaloakpaleystreet.com
City of Edinburgh 21212
Driftwood Chris Eden www.driftwoodhotel.co.uk
Masons Arms Mark Dodson www.masonsarmsdevon.co.uk
Simon Radley at Chester Grosvenor Simon Radley www.chestergrosvenor.com/simonradley-restaurant
Morston Hall Galton Blackiston www.morstonhall.com
Thomas Carr @ The Olive Room Thomas Carr www.thomascarrchef.co.uk
Fischer’s at Baslow Hall Rupert Rowley www.fischers-baslowhall.co.uk
Fife The Cellar
Pony & Trap Josh Eggleton www.theponyandtrap.co.uk
5 North St Gus www.5northstreetrestaurant.co.uk
Star Inn Andrew Pern www.thestaratharome.co.uk
Martin Wishart at Loch Lomond Martin Wishart www.mwlochlomond.co.uk
Sir Charles Napier Gerd Greaves www.sircharlesnapier.co.uk
Simpsons Andreas Antona www.simpsonsrestaurant.co.uk
Tudor Room at Great Fosters Hotel Marc Hardiman www.greatfosters.co.uk/dining/ tudor-room/menus
Turners @ 69 Richard Turner www.turnersat69.co.uk
West House Graham Garrett www.thewesthouserestaurant. co.uk
Wilk's James Wilkins www.wilksrestaurant.co.uk
Woodspeen John Campbell www.thewoodspeen.com
Yorke Arms Frances Atkins www.yorke-arms.co.uk
I N D U S T RY TO P I C :
by Andy Lynes
The Debate Rumbles on
Service charge. How can two such straightforward, self-explanatory words generate so much confusion and bad feeling? A rash of newspaper headlines over the last 18 months have revealed the complex, toxic reality behind the apparently benign phrase, tarnishing the reputation of high street chains and fine dining restaurants alike and triggering a Government investigation that could have far reaching effects for the entire industry. 8
he controversy has been simmering since 2007 when the Unite Union launched their Fair Tips campaign, supported by several national newspapers and initially targeting Pizza Express and Smollensky’s in the Strand restaurants in London with protests calling on the Government to close the loophole that allowed hospitality employers to use tips to make up the minimum wage. That goal was achieved with the 2009 National Minimum Wage: A Code of Best Practice on Service Charges, Tips, Gratuities and Cover Charges Code that stated ‘service charges, tips, gratuities and cover charges can no longer be used to make up national minimum wage pay’. But that was far from the end of the story. Unite have persisted with the campaign and in May 2015, Pizza Express came under fire again, this time for withholding from staff 8 per cent of service charges paid by credit card which they said was used to administer the tronc (a separate organised pay arrangement within a restaurant used to distribute tips, gratuities and service charges). Newspaper stories at the time highlighted other national chains with similar policies including Giraffe (10 per cent) and Ask (8 per cent). Following the adverse publicity, all three companies scrapped the practice. Later that year, Wahaca were criticised in the press for requiring staff to hand over 3.3% of card sales and 0.075% of cash sales at the end of every shift, regardless of how much money they made on tips. Wahaca said that all the levy went to the tronc and was distributed to other staff, such as kitchen and bar workers and that no money was kept by the company. The restaurant’s website now states that ‘We charge no administrative fee or make any form of deduction from tips or service charges’ and that ‘100% of all tips and service charges go to restaurant staff’. The most recent, and most high profile case, combined both the National Minimum Wage and withholding of service charge issues when the Guardian reported in November 2016 that some chefs at Michel Roux Jr’s world famous Le Gavroche restaurant in Mayfair earned £5.50 an hour, far less than the prescribed £7.20 national living wage for workers of 25 years of age and older. In addition, Roux Jr was forced to admit that none of the restaurant’s 13 per cent service charge was passed on to staff and
instead was treated as revenue. Roux has since apologised, announced that he will scrap the service charge and instead put up prices by 13 per cent and will pay chefs any wages owed to them. What has been mostly absent from the coverage however is legal position of the restaurants in all of this. In a series of articles published on the website of HOSPA (the association for Finance, Revenue Management and IT professionals working in the hospitality industry) chartered accountant Howard Field points out that restaurants are ‘under no legal obligation to pass all or any part of service charges on to the staff, despite the perception in the customer’s mind that the service charge belongs and goes directly to the staff’. He also points out that services charges differ from tips because ‘a tip is given is entirely at the volition of the customer to reward the staff involved in providing a service over and above the charge stated on his bill’ whereas a service charge is made ‘when the menu or tariff list states that a charge will be added to the total amount of the bill when it is presented to the customer’. But even if restaurants are in the clear legally speaking over service charges, there is still a strong argument in favour of the rest of the UK industry falling in line with Roux Jr’s choice to go fully inclusive. It might well help put an end to customer confusion, which history tells us that no amount of explanation on restaurant menus and websites, by front of house staff, or in the press is ever going to clear up. Observer restaurant critic Jay Rayner is a proponent of the move, writing in a recent article that ‘tipping is a crass, outmoded, dysfunctional and ultimately inefficient system, ill-suited to a serviceindustry age’ and that ‘diners will see menu prices rise, but they’ll know that the price they see is the price they pay, and that the people serving them are properly looked after’. However, it’s arguable that the sole beneficiary of such a change would be the Treasury. Currently, discretionary service charges (and tips) are exempt from VAT and not subject to National Insurance deductions, only income tax which must be declare either by the individual or by the troncmaster. According to Field, a restaurant currently charging 12.5 per cent service charge and
operating a tronc system would have to increase a £50 menu price to £58.60 to cover the additional tax liabilities and increased workplace pension contributions, a rise of 4.2 per cent over the price of £56.25 including service charge the customer would pay now and all of it going to the Government. Restaurant staff would also lose an additional 14 per cent of their cut in National Insurance and pension contributions. But, depending on the final out-come of the investigation into tips, gratuities, cover and service charges launched in 2015 by the then Business Secretary Sajid Javid, the decision of whether to levy a service charge or not could be taken out of the industry’s hands anyway. The consultation document issued in May 2016 asked among other things ‘whether businesses should not be allowed to suggest a particular amount/level of discretionary payment for service’. In America, a country where tipping is almost a way of life, Danny Meyer, owner of the global Shake Shack burger chain and some of New York’s most highly rated restaurants including Gramercy Tavern has grasped the nettle and is introducing all-inclusive pricing across all 13 of his establishments. ‘Union Square Cafe is a non-tipping restaurant. Hospitality Included’ reads a note at the top the menu at his best known restaurant. Meyer’s gamble is to reward all his staff more equally, including the line cooks that he has said he was losing to other operators for as little as 25 cents extra pay an hour. The logic is that by raising salaries across the board (what waiting staff lose out on in tips, Meyer will make up for through a revenue sharing bonus scheme) he will increase staff retention, making for a better run business and more repeat customers as well as providing customers with more transparent pricing. In an ideal world, customers will be willing to pay a fair price for good food, menu pricing will be completely transparent, restaurant owners will remunerate their staff appropriately, mitigating the need for customers to top up earnings, and the Government will devise laws and tax arrangements that allows the hospitality industry to deliver all that and continue to thrive. And whoever can make that happen really deserves a tip. 9
T H E B E N T I S H COLUMN
It’s been a W
ow, so that was some year right? If you reside in my world of restaurants and hospitality then you’ll all be fully on board with the stress and strains this year brought- Brexit, rising food costs, minimum wage, a record number of restaurant openings (and a near record of closures) that has somewhat diluted the customer base for everybody, rising rents. Oh, and the genius that was David Bowie passed away- need I go on? So yes a tough year for us in the restaurant industry and some might say why would you bother to open a restaurant in this current climate- it all seems to be against us. Well here’s where my negativity stops- its been a tough year yes (and next year promises to be more so) but one thing it has done is make us take stock, focus on what we have, and make it the best it can be (after all that’s why we do this, right?) A hark back to leaner times is a challenge but an exciting opportunity to be creative in the kitchen, on the floor, and with our marketing strategies. Food and drink prices are rising and will do more and more over the coming months so we need to buy more intelligently, locally and sustainably - minimising or eradicating waste will be top of my list along with creating beautiful food and drinks from cheaper ingredients, buying whole animals to be butchered and shared out amongst our restaurants and really working closely with our suppliers on what and when to buy, so we can weather the storm together.
Staff retention and recruitment is a constant challenge and we are constantly working creatively to give back much more than a salary in terms of training and progression- we all know how expensive recruitment can be.. I’m occasionally asked by the press at this time of year to “predict” the following years food trends and how the restaurant landscape might look and whilst I don’t exactly gaze into my crystal ball I do like to have an educated punt: and next year does seem to be anticipated with bated breath. I do live and work in London so my focus will always be centered around the smoke and that’s where my knowledge lies - for sure we are going to have to knuckle down as I’ve said already but there’s going be some very intelligent and great value restaurants coming through next year, as a necessity- the outer zones of London will lead the way in this field with cheaper rents for restaurateurs and a growing, more discerning and captive audience in these parts. Essentially these “villages” are going to create foodie hubs and zones similar to how New York has developed with its boroughs of Brooklyn and Williamsburg. The rise and rise of one focus restaurants- it has been burgers and hot dogs in the past and recently the Bao, the Hopper and the meatball- these concepts have a common theme and that is they are relatively cheap and accessible for all foodie levels. The foodie demographic has transformed and widened significantly over the past years
’n Roll Year and now includes kids, once more interested in X box, skating and gigs and now are more interested in how their burger is flipped, where the beef was hung and what social media currency that can bring them. Next year expect a flurry of Taco joints- of all levels- taking centre stage on the food scene- I’m looking forward to trying Breddos Tacos’ new full time home and seeing what the Hart brothers do with their new Taco restaurant in London Bridge. The BBQ craze of recent times (one I admit to playing a small part in) is just going from strength-to-strength (although an implosion surely has to be on the cards) Smokestak will lead the way next year with their traditional US barbecue style but with a high end refinement. Expect more of this and then some. Fads and locations aside, a real focus will (and should) be ethics, social awareness and cohesion, waste management, and happiness and fulfillment in the work place. Not new
and something on our radars, but next year seems appropriate to ramp this up - I’m talking about letting suppliers, producers and growers take a bigger role in wour menu direction, as opposed to only chefs and restaurateurs leading the way. Farm to fork in the true sense of the term is as important now as it’s ever been. A final note is on our industry as a whole - we are a particular, common minded community with great passion, creativity and drive and this should be harnessed, shared and collaborated with in our world. Once again, asked why would you open a restaurant or run a restaurant group with such interesting challenges ahead? Well we bloody love it don’t we? Its fun, scary, adrenalin-fuelled, you get to create and drive on a daily basis and the industry is filled with the most interesting and driven characters you are most likely to meet. Yes we love it through thick and thin, and next year we may need each other more than ever. Bring on 2017.
A.A. Gill A shock late last year was the sad loss of AA Gill, restaurant critic for the Sunday Times for many years. Renowned for his withering reviews he was loved and loathed in equal measures - however theres no denying his writing and journalistic style was peerless. Incredibly entertaining, intelligent and backed up with many years experience. As much a part of restaurant folklore as Marco and Gordon. 11
Andy Lynes talk s to Jerome Bocuse
I don’t cook right now I’ve got 600 employees and 15 restaurants so there’s not too much time for cooking
This year sees the thirtieth anniversary of the Bocuse D’or, arguably the greatest professional chef competition in the world. As always, the biannual competition that sees chefs from 24 countries around the world battle it out in front of a wildly enthusiastic audience to prepare spectacular platters of meat and fish for a place on the podium will be staged in Lyon, the gastronomic capital of France and home to the chef that lends his name to the event, Paul Bocuse. At 90, Bocuse remains one of the most famous French chefs in the world. His eponymous flagship restaurant in Lyon has retained it’s three Michelin star status for more than 50 years and can count the likes of Daniel Boulud and Jean George Vongerichten among it’s many famous alumni
he Bocuse family have been producing chefs since 1765, and now Paul’s son Jerome, who runs the worldwide Bocuse empire, has been named President of Bocuse D’or. I asked him how it felt to be stepping into such big shoes. ‘It’s a big honour but at the same time it’s a huge responsibility. The competition started really small, it was hard to find 24 countries to compete 30 years ago, now we have over 60 countries trying to earn a spot through regional and national heats to be the finals in Lyon. There is still opportunity to grow it even further and make sure that we are truthful to my father’s DNA about this contest’.
You’ve worked in America since 1996 what took you there in the first place? I was more interested by sports than cooking when I was growing up. I had a bad accident and realised that sport wouldn’t get me too far in life. My father was travelling he world and it was not easy to carry the Bocuse name in France when you are young and he said, “Well, go to the States. Maybe people don’t judge you so much on the name you’re wearing”. So I went to the Culinary Institute of America and after that hospitality school in Miami and decided to do a stage at my father’s restaurant in Epcot and a few years later I took over the whole operation. Three years ago I came back to France and took over the full operation of the Bocuse business. The reason being that my father’s health was declining and it was time for me to come back and step up. It’s not easy to be next to Paul Bocuse,
he’s taking a lot of room, he has a big type A personality but do I think it was the right time for me to do that’. Do you cook at the three star restaurant? I don’t cook right now. I’ve got 600 employees and 15 restaurants so there’s not too much time for cooking. I’m pretty busy going back and forth with another seven restaurants in Japan. But for me today we have a really good team in the Bocuse group, the chef has been in Lyon for the last 25 years and nd I don’t have any plans to take over the kitchens’. You’ve been involved with the competition since its launch in 1987. How do you think world of gastronomy has changed since then? In the US you’ve seen one of the most rapid developments. Thirty years ago there was absolutely nothing beside chain restaurants and barbecue. Now you can see what’s happening. Another good example would be Japan. Thirty years ago nobody was talking about Japanese cuisine. I never though thirty years ago that everyone would love sushi. Another goal for me is to discover countries that are not on the food scene today that could be in the years to come. Will the competition have to change to reflect those changes in food? Yes and no. I think the format is pretty good but we are adapting ourselves and moving with the trends. This year for the first time were going to have a vegetable plate. People are eating less meat and going to more vegetables so we obviously follow the trends and what’s 13
happening on the planet. That said, just because there is a trend of molecular cuisine it doesn’t mean that we are going to impose some molecular cuisine in the contest. So there are certain perimeters that we have to stay in to make sure that this is what the contest is all about. Does that mean staying within the confines of French classical cuisine? I wouldn’t say that. For example, you have the platter and you will never see a platter like that executed in a restaurant. The platter by itself, if you look at the size, its very spectacular and it can never go away even though its something you will never see in a real restaurant. It’s very technical and it has to remain. Some countries have performed better than others in the Bocuse D’or. For example, the British are yet to fulfil their full potential with a best ever placing of fourth overall, just missing out on the podium. Why do you think that is?
It’s a matter of how much you want to be involved, how much time and financial resources you have access to which are not always available to some chefs. It’s a huge commitment for a chef now. Thirty years ago you could be a chef and if you practiced a few hours every week you could maybe reach the podium. Today it’s not possible anymore. You probably need a full time commitment a year ahead just doing the Bocuse D’or preparation. To find someone willing to commitment a year or two of their lives is not easy. We talk about Spanish chefs and Italian chefs being well represented in the World’s 50 best or with 3 stars Michelin, but we never really see Spanish or Italian chefs in the Bocuse D’or, so my goal today is to really make sure those countries are represented. Bocuse D’or should be a reflection of what’s happening on those countries. What practical steps can you take to make sure that happens? We have to make some incentives and try and find some help through sponsors and our network of chefs to push those chefs to compete and do well. So that’s going to happen with Italy in the next competition, they received the wild card and I think it could be a very completive country in the next Bocuse D’or. We now have 60 countries entering the competition and you will find a lot of very small countries that most of us haven’t heard of as far as their food and I found that very interesting. The main goal of my father when he created the concept of the contest was to have chefs from all over the planet come and show their food, their local products, their heritage and their technique. Remember that 30 years ago we didn’t have social media we didn’t have the internet so it was great place to promote your cuisine, to promote your country. Now 30 years after we are in a different situation, you can see what’s happening in every country thought your computer, but I think it’s very important to be physically there together. For me it has a great meaning for the chef they can gather every two years and share their work, share their concerns about the industry, its a big win. Has the skills shortage in the restaurant industry affected the competition?
I N D U S T RY TO P I C Andy Lynes talk s to Jerome Bocuse
Its not just an issue for Bocuse D’or but for chefs in general. I’m very shocked when chefs go through molecular chemistry and extraordinary science of cooking but they can’t cook a simple omelette. To me that’s very disturbing, its not good for our trade. There are certain rules on technique that are encoded into cooking, it’s like you’re building a house, if there’s no foundation the house is going to crumble and I think its the same thing for chefs. Bocuse D’or requires all the basic skills, very good technique and some part of creativity, but if you don’t have those basic skills you can’t go far. Will being President conflict with your involvement with the American team? I’m not involved with the team, I’m more involved in the foundation called Ment’or BKB with Daniel Boulud and Thomas Keller. The team is more Thomas’s side, I’m more involved in the grant programme that we do in the US to help young culinarians get access to different stages. We give about $500k and make sure we can provide experience and training for these young chefs that don’t necessarily have the access to that network. How transparent is the Bocuse D’or judging process? Each of the 24 countries in the final has a team made up of a chef plus their assistant and their president. Each president sits at the jury table and we split them into two groups; one group judging the meat platter (or this year the vegetable platter) and the other the plate. We take away the highest mark and the lowest mark, as they do in artistic ice skating. This year for the first time the judges will have a tablet and basically the score will come out live. You really see who’s doing what, it’s very transparent. The atmosphere at the Bocuse D’or is unique for a cooking competition. How would you describe it? You can compare it to a sporting event. It’s very lively and very entertaining. It’s great to see an event like this so joyful and at the same time so professional. It just evolved naturally, the public 15
started to get into the game and started to cheer. Nobody pushed them to do that, it was like they were going to a soccer game cheering for their team but now they’re cheering for the chefs. I think there’s a sense of patriotism, its like the Olympic games;
you don’t just cheer for a specific athlete or chef, you cheer for your country. It’s as huge responsibility to have that weight and the pressure is definitely on for the chef. What is the future of the Bocuse D’or?
It’s kind of a celebration of cooking and that’s something I don’t want to disappear. The chef trade is a small fraternity and it’s important for those chefs to give a handshake or a hug every other year.
Simon Hulstone: Bocuse D’or from the British Point of view I competed in the Bocuse D’or between 2008 and 2011. My first experience was the European finals; I was ill prepared, I didn’t have the knowledge. I took all my equipment in a backpack, other people were turning up with truckloads. They bought their own combi ovens, they had heated platters while I was sticking a tray in the oven to put my plate on. The first time I did the finals, I met my commis on 4 January that year and we flew out to Lyon on the 15 January, I’d never even met the lad before. I’d never seen anything like it, especially if you’re on one of the days when the French or Scandinavians are competing, the noise and the pressure is just intense. I wasn’t getting any further in the competition so Adam Bennett from the Cross in Kenilworth went after me in 2013 and did brilliantly, coming fourth overall in the finals. He was taken out of his job for four months, he had a purpose-built kitchen in Birmingham college, a fulltime commis and apprentices so he could just concentrate on it. When he did it the second time in 2015 he didn’t have any of that and he got knocked back to tenth place.
I don’t think it’s the best cooking competition in the world, that’s the Roux Scholarship, but it’s the best chef competition in the world. But you’re not going to win the Bocuse D’or and put those dishes on your menu. It’s culinary art, it’s almost pure technique and it goes against nearly everything running a restaurant would be; it’s wastage of high quality ingredients, it’s serving cold food that’s been over-handled, it’s a bit ridiculous really. It’s an amazing experience to be part of but you can understand the doubters in this country, why top chefs wouldn’t enter it.
This year is the first time we’ve not been in the finals. I don’t think we were prepared enough. After Adam, we sat back a bit thinking that we would always qualify. Hungary, who won the European regional finals, had Rasmus Kofoed of three Michelin-starred Geranium in Copenhagen who has previously won bronze, silver and gold at Bocuse Do’r finals to train their chef and that’s the difference.
If we won it, it would help the industry, push training standards and give us a good boost but Isaac McHale at the Clove Club is not going to bothered about it. It’s not going to affect Mikael Jonsson at Hedone or Simon Rogan, and that’s why it’s so hard for us to get a competitor, whereas in Scandinavia it’s easy because they’ve won it and they see what the benefits are. There’s different priorities here.
The Norwegians that win it go on to be massive superstars in Norway and around the world but they don’t exactly work in brilliant restaurants, some of them worked in canteens in oil rigs. They are taken out of their kitchen and fully trained to do two dishes, that’s all they have to do, and they will train for a year to 18 months fully paid, all expenses and they’re supported 100 per cent. They’ve got past winners that will support them so they’ve got guys in their team that we can only dream of.
I’d like to say I helped boost the Bocuse in the UK and then Adam went on from what I gained and did so well to keep the momentum going. I’d love to be involved in the future, I’d love to be an ambassador for it but it’s up to each competitor how he builds his team. It’s a world stage, if we can get the right competitor, they can be boosted all around the place. It’s money, training and just hitting that formula, but that’s the same with any competition. Until you’ve got a winner, you’ve got nothing to work on.
America has been the sleeping giant. There’s serious amounts of money in the American team and that’s where the British team
lose out and we’re falling backwards. Every time I did a practice it was touching on £1,000 in terms of ingredients, time and equipment and I can’t do that from a little restaurant without massive sponsors. We raised just under £100k which was brilliant but we had to pay for travel, equipment and our platters which could cost £25k alone and would be seen for 10 minutes and are never going to be used again. I did 10 practices when I did it and I spoke to the Norwegian guy and he said they’d done 70 to 80 on each dish.
I N D U S T RY TO P I C Andy Lynes talk s to Jerome Bocuse
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TA L K TO T H E C H E F :
by Bernice Saltzer
Greig Young at The Gore, London
It may be the home of motor racing and of fashion, but according to chef Daniel Galmiche thatâ€™s not what interests the french. Bernice saltzer finds out more from this inspirationalchefâ€Ś
here are many things that the French can take credit for. It is the undeniable fashion capital of the world and the birthplace of competitive motor racing. It is home to many of the most recognisable monuments on the planet and was the birthplace of some of the most influential artists ever known – think Cezanne, Monet, Renoir. Yet, according to acclaimed chef Daniel Galmiche your average French man and woman is not concerned about these matters. “What is important to most French people is that they have a garden and nice food to put on the table,” he maintains. While France’s place in the culinary world is undisputable, for Daniel this goes way beyond the learning of classical techniques which are an important part of any chef’s armoury.
Fjord Trout, Bergen, Norway
TA L K TO T H E C H E F b y B e r n i c e S a l t z e r
For Daniel it’s what taught at home, the passion and obsession with the highest quality ingredients, that’s really at the foundation for a career in the kitchen. That’s certainly true in Daniel’s case, who’s love affair with food began when he was just five years old. It’s hard to imagine as he head up the kitchen at 190 Queens Gate at London’s iconic Gore Hotel that his credentials stretch back to such an early age, but it was growing up in an environment with food at its heart that set the stage for his career. “I think anyone who grows up in France, or any other Latin country like Italy, Spain or Portugal, sees their mother, they grandmother, their aunts in the kitchen,” he said. “I was lucky to have a great aunt who had a small holding so we would literally take the freshest of ingredients
and that’s what we would cook with. “The concept of from field to plate was something we were doing long before it became fashionable for chefs.” The Galmiche family welcomed the small boy who was eager to help in the kitchen, nurturing his desire to be involved in the process of culinary creation. “I remember my mother would send me out and say pick me a kilo of green beans from the garden,” he recalled. “And within no time at all they would be cooked and on our plates.” That experience has stood Daniel in good stead across his career, spanning years working in a range of Michelin starred kitchens. “I haven’t actually moved around that much,” he said. “And when I have it’s been more to do with outside factors, like the restaurant has been sold or the owners have decided to shut it, rather than my decision to leave.”
Never the less his credentials are impressive – working at the famous Harvey’s restaurant in Bristol, at Cliveden and at The Vineyard, Newbury before taking up his current position at The Gore. His high standards are not surprising given that his career has seen him work in Michelinstarred environments at every stage, however winning one of the prized accolades is not his priority. “There are chefs who are cooking for the guide rather than cooking for their true selves,” he said. “Our priority as chefs should be to cook the way we want, the way we believe in, taking into account seasonality and the best products. “We should be first cooking for the love of it, then everything else should come after.” He believes that these rules apply not just to the fine dining experience but at every kind of eatery. “If you are serving pizza then you should be serving the best pizza, using the finest and freshest ingredients,” said Daniel. “As chefs we need to respect the products, use the best and always, always, consider sustainability.” Sustainability is a passion and a subject close to Daniel’s heart – which is why he was asked along with Michel Roux Jnr, to be
an ambassador for the Norwegian Seafood Council. “The Norwegians have got it just right,” he said. “They don’t change the ethos about the way they work and they genuinely are fantastic with their produce, from the clarity of their waters to the care and concern about sustainability.” As part of his role Daniel is championing Fjord Trout, a pleasure for a chef who is passionate about fish and which he has ensured appears on his menus. His sense of responsibility stretches to the legacy for the future generations and he believes all chefs have a moral obligation to teach their junior chefs only to accept the best. “It is important that we take them and show they how to use and enjoy the produce that is on their doorsteps, that they go the fishmonger who offers the best fish, the butcher who knows about the meat – making them aware is part of our job,” said Daniel. His upbringing means he sees few problems in chefs who also like to grow their own food, believing that this relationship can only enhance their culinary expertise. “When I worked in Portugal I remember seeing my chefs at the end of the day by the roadside selling the tomatoes and produce they were
growing for themselves,” he revealed “This is how it should be.” And despite the punishing schedule for a chef of his stature, Daniel still finds to return to his roots and the comfort of familiarity. “My mother is now 86 but when I’m going home she will still prepare me one of my favourite meals, still using the fresh ingredients,” he said. So what can diners at The Gore expect? “This is not about fine dining, this is about the best of French brasserie food,” said Daniel. “We have to consider our audience, the fact that we are so near the Albert Hall so we have people coming to eat before the theatre although we are now very much becoming a destination in our own right. “This is a hotel with so much history, it was the place where the Rolling Stones used to come and write their songs at the bar, that it’s a fantastic place to be working.” At this side is Greig Young, originally from Scotland and who previously worked with Daniel at The Vineyard. “We are a very good team,” said Daniel. “And our menu of French dishes with a British twist seem to be very well received because we are sticking to our principles – the best of ingredients and always look at those products which are sustainable.” 21
INGREDIENT: NORWEGIAN SEAFOOD PURITY ON A PLATE. Norway’s crystal clear fjords are fed by pure glacial meltwater, which collides with Arctic seawater to create some of the best conditions on the planet for raising delicious, healthy fish. Fjord Trout is a unique expression of this Nordic purity, from its inception at source to its taste in the mouth. SLOW AND NATURAL The fish start life close to the pure glacial streams that feed the fjord. When they reach 80g, they are taken into deeper waters. Here, they grow slowly up to 4-6kg, with plenty of space, sustainable feed and a natural flow of currents. DELICIOUS AND VERSATILE The flesh is vibrant and very lean, with a texture that at first feels firm but then melts in the mouth. The taste is delicate and pure, with a hint of nutty sweetness. This makes Norwegian Fjord Trout ideal for raw and marinated dishes like sashimi and ceviche. But it’s also delicious gently grilled or baked with citrus fruits and herbs. Fjord Trout store the majority of their fat in the belly, which is what makes the fillets so lean. This means it’s best cooked at low temperatures, keeping the flesh lovely and pink while retaining the delicate, flavoursome oils. SUSTAINABLE AND NUTRITIOUS Norwegian Fjord Trout is farmed with care by our people, who draw on centuries of learnings and adhere to our world-leading sustainability practices. An excellent source of protein and Omega-3, Fjord Trout is available all year round and is already being picked up by leading Michelin starred chefs such as Daniel Galmiche.
The secret ingredient is n a t u r e There’s something very special about Norwegian seafood and it begins in the cold, clear waters of the Norwegian coast. The country’s unique landscape, with its sheltered fjords and vast Arctic oceans, provides the perfect mix of temperatures and currents to give life to the wide variety of high-quality fish and shellfish Norway has become famous for.
Norwegians have been relying on the sea’s rich bounty for thousands of years – it enabled the first settlers to survive in Norway’s difficult climate and it remains an integral part of Norwegian culture today. Around 90% of the country’s residents live by the coast and their age-old reliance on its natural resources has helped to foster a unique understanding of all that dwells there. Having been saved by the seas many times, they see it as their duty to return the favour. Today, thanks to a careful system of managing and monitoring, Norway has more MSC certified fisheries than any other country on earth, while its pioneering ocean-farming techniques bring delicious, sustainable fish to the world.
NORWEGIAN COD: SUPERIOR AND SUSTAINABLE
There’s a reason why Norwegian’s refer to their cod as ‘white gold’. This beautiful, muscular fish produces fillets unmatched in quality and texture. What’s more, you can serve this delicious fish secure in the knowledge that Norway’s North East Arctic cod stocks are MSC certified. For Norwegian cod at its very best try seasonal Skrei, available from February. The Skrei return from the Barents Sea to their spawning grounds. This long and epic journey through tough waters yields amazingly succulent, flavoursome white flesh. ATLANTIC SALMON: OCEAN-FARMED FOR FLAVOUR Norway began ocean-farming salmon in the seventies and since then it has truly mastered the art. Not only are the fish given lots of room to swim, they are given the time to grow slowly, creating the desired fat marbling and attractive red-orange colour – just as nature intended.
For more information please visit seafoodfromnorway.co.uk 22
by Daniel Galmiche
MI-CUIT NORWEGIAN FJORD TROUT WITH GRILLED COURGETTES AND SAUCE VIERGE
INGREDIENTS ● ● ● ●
4 x 140g Norwegian Fjord Trout pavés Olive oil 2 large courgettes, ribbonned Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR SAUCE VIERGE ● ● ● ● ● ●
4 large tbsp extra virgin oil 1 shallot, chopped 1 tomato deseeded and diced 1 tbsp of good balsamic vinegar Juice of half a lime 1 handful of flat leaf parsley, finely chopped
METHOD SAUCE VIERGE 1. Pour the oil into a small saucepan and briefly warm over a low heat for about 30 seconds. 2. Add the shallot and cook for 2 minutes, remove from heat and gently stir through the tomato. Add vinegar and lime juice, and just before serving stir through the parsley. NORWEGIAN FJORD TROUT 1. Brush each Fjord Trout pavé with oil and pepper. Wrap in cling film and tie up both ends, then cook in a water bath at 60oC for 5-6 minutes
2. While the Fjord Trout is cooking, grill the courgette ribbons in olive oil, salt and pepper. 3. Remove from the water bath and cut one side of the film, pat dry, brush with oil and pepper, then pan-fry on the skin only in a non-stick pan. 4. After 2-3 minutes, when golden brown, serve pink in the middle and you will see those lovely flakes just sliding through the fork pressure. 5. Drizzle the with the sauce vierge and serve with grilled courgettes. 23
TA L K TO T H E C H E F : A N N E - S O P H I E P I C B y A n d y Ly n e s
The Pic of
the Bunch For any chef, the London restaurant scene is a tough nut to crack. Dynamic, faddish and hugely competitive, it’s chewed up and spat out a fair number of overseas Michelinstarred chefs in recent years who have tried and failed to make an impact. But if anyone from the international gastronomic galaxy can conquer Britain’s capital then it’s Anne-Sophie Pic, who opened La Dame de Pic in the new Four Seasons Hotel London at Ten Trinity Square in January. 25
verlooking the Tower of London and the Thames, the 100 room hotel is housed behind the magnificent classical facade of the grade II listed Port of London Authority building, a suitably iconic address (it doubled as MI6 headquarters in the Bond movie Skyfall) for an iconic chef. Pic, named Best Female Chef in the World in 2011 at the World’s 50 Best Restaurants awards is not just the only female French chef to hold three Michelin stars (and one of only five in the world) but she is also genuine French restaurant royalty. Her eponymous flagship restaurant in Valence in south eastern France, where she has held three stars since 2007 has been in her family since 1889. In 1939, her grandfather André was one of the first chefs ever to win three Michelin stars and her father Jacques achieved the same award in 1973, helping to define Nouvelle Cuisine along the way.
"We are the only family to get three stars in three generations. Each time we regained them, we didn’t inherit them,’ says Pic, who only decided on a career in the kitchen at the age of 22 after studying business and travelling the world. ‘I had already been in Japan and opened by mind to other worlds but of course I had to learn how to cook, I didn’t know. I had the palette because it was informed by my father in childhood but it was an opportunity because I was not formatted by a chef so I tried to find my own way, my own feminine way". Pic’s unique culinary vision expresses itself in an ever evolving array of stunningly presented dishes like slices of raw carrots, shaped into a flower-like presentation and served on dots of orange blossom yoghurt and seasoned with rare Madagascan voatsiperifery pepper and jolting flavour combinations such as oysters and coffee.
"It’s intuition when you first think of a combination. We mix whiskey with water and use it to make coffee. We use some spices too and it gives a very flavoured bouillon. It’s a very light and aromatic sauce, like a perfume. The oyster is heated under the salamander because it’s served with a hot bouillon so I didn’t want there to be too much difference of temperature. Its something special. We make it in the 26
TA L K TO T H E C H E F A n n e - S o p h i e P i c
dining room in Valence to explain the dish because if you bring it directly to the customers it’s very surprising, but people are very fond of this dish". Pic’s culinary curiosity has led her to investigate sous vide cooking then abandon it in favour of Japanese Teppanyaki grilling (‘We cook a lot of vegetable Teppanyaki because the juiciness is different,’ she explains), to research the art of infusion and ultra modern gadgets like the rotary evaporator for reducing sauces at low temperatures.
"It’s 20 years since I entered the kitchen. I was afraid to become older and to have less creativity. In fact, I think it’s the contrary, creativity is getting wider for me with age. You have more experience more maturity and you know by essence that you don’t have to do something because you know it doesn’t work. You can go further, it’s very interesting. For me, to get the inspiration, I try to find new suppliers to better know the products to push the creativity more". Le Dame de Pic will be the second restaurant to bear that name, the first was opened in Paris in 2012, close to the Louvre and holds a Michelin star for dishes including Teppanyaki grilled mackerel with Matcha tea sabayon. But the London version won’t be a carbon copy. "Each time I open a restaurant, I like to catch the spirit of each country and I’m looking to get new inspiration in London". She is in the process of getting better acquainted with British produce and suppliers and has already discovered Hereford beef (‘Beef is incredible here,’ she enthuses) and marigolds, something she says she has never seen in France. Although Pic is a forward looking chef, she is in no danger of forgetting the past. In 2016, she opened Andre in Valence, a bistro named in honour of her grandfather where she serves classic family recipes like crayfish gratin. "The recipes were written by hand because unfortunately my father and grandfather didn’t take time to make a book. So the first time I decided to make this restaurant I was crying when I saw their writings because it was like I was there with them. I was stressed because I didn’t know if I would be able to make the recipes like they would, but I’m very happy with it now". 28
TA L K TO T H E C H E F A n n e - S o p h i e P i c
Pic now presides over a small empire with Maison Pic Hotel, the casual Daily Pic (a ‘cantine gourmande’), L’Epicerie d’Anne-Sophie Pic and L’Ecole Scook all in Valence and the two Michelin starred Anne-Sophie Pic Au Beau Rivage Palace in Lausanne making up a total of nine addresses. Although she had plans to open a further two restaurants in New York in 2015 (the venture fell through when an investor pulled out), Pic says that she is in no hurry to open a string of
Le Dame de Pic restaurants and will be hands on at the London restaurant. "I don’t send my recipes by email and say manage with that, it doesn’t work, so we have to work together. I will come as soon as possible to cook and see how it works to see if it conforms to my wishes and my cuisine and to settle the team. I don’t want to lose the creativity because it’s the core of my cuisine, otherwise I’d open 20 restaurants but I’d lose the purpose and I don’t want that to happen".
by Anne-Sophie Pic
GILLARDEAU OYSTERS WITH IRISH COFFEE AND CREAMY JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE INGREDIENTS GILLARDEAU OYSTER: ● 4 oyster’s ● Whiskey (Nikka Black) JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE FOAM: ● ● ● ● ● ●
300g of Jerusalem artichokes peeled 500g milk 50g liquid cream 300g hazelnut butter Agar-agar Salt
COFFEE (USING A CHEMEX): ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
250g mineral water 30g of whiskey (Nikka Black) 2g star anise 2g licorice 1.5g black cardamom 17g Bourbon Pointu Coffee 1 teaspoon mineral water
FINISHING: ● ● ● ●
4 nasturtium leaves 4 Melbas (bread with rye flour) 40g brunoise of Jerusalem artichokes 1 teaspoon of rye melba powder
METHOD THE GILLARDEAU OYSTER: Open the oysters and rinse well with water, checking that there is no more shell debris left. JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE FOAM: Cook the Jerusalem artichokes in the milk. Whilst they are cooking, make a hazelnut butter, cool immediately on ice to obtain the desired color. Once the Jerusalem artichokes are cooked, strain them and keep the milk to one side. Add 1% Agar-agar to the milk and bring to the boil. Mix in the Jerusalem artichokes, add the hazelnut butter, the liquid cream and adjust the seasoning. Put in siphon bottle and gas twice.
DRESSING AND FINISHING:
Prepare filter coffee with water heated to 92°C, add the spices to the coffee. At the same time, heat the spoonful of water with the whiskey to 92°C. Pour a stint of whiskey on the coffee, let it infuse.
Marinate the oysters in the whiskey for about two minutes before straining on the hot plate. Arrange the hot Jerusalem artichokes in the bottom of the plate and arrange the foam between the oyster and the edge of the plate. Place the melba powder and the bread on the rye flour (slightly offset). Decorate the oyster with a nasturtium leaf and serve immediately. 29
The chefs appearing in the Chef Book
Paul Wayne Gregory
Michel Roux jr
Esben Holmboe Bang
Marco Pierre White
COUNTRY PROFILE: INDIA The Club des Chefs des Chefs (CCC), the worldâ€™s most exclusive gastronomic society, was founded at the restaurant Paul Bocuse, the legendary temple of gastronomy, in 1977, in the presence of a number of personal chefs of heads of state. The meeting was instigated by Gilles Bragard, the couturier to chefs and international hospitality. The following pages, show in pictures, highlights of a recent tour to India organised by Gilles Bragard and Montu Sani, Chef to the President of India
COUNTRY PROFILE: INDIA
Prem kumar. Pogakula I am the Executive Chef at the Imperial Hotel in New Delhi and it fell upon my shoulders to be responsible for looking after the Chef du Chef delegation as they began there culinary tour of India. Working with Chef Montu, Chef to the Prime Minister of India I found myself entering the panorama of the unseen, unheard & the unbelievable.
t’s just like a whole world of legendary chefs under one roof as each Chef, and there were 15, were Chefs to either the Royal Family of a Country or the President. I was cooking for Mark Flanagan Chef to the Queen of England, Christeta Comerford Chef to Barack Obama Ulrich Kerz Chef to Angela Merkel to mention but a few. This event was more than status for me it became the badge of honour and I wanted to meet and talk with the Chefs to quench my thirst of knowledge. Being responsible for this event becomes your identity i.e. if anyone asks you what highlights you have in your career it now has to be I was the host chef of CCC in India. With 5 days of events, our efforts, the sleepless nights and the want to show off Indian food with all its diverse regions and spices became a journey beyond my expectations. And of course one of the best parts of the event was to meet and share the knowledge from chefs from different corners of the world cooking for great leaders, kings and queens, It feels really rewarding to see that what just started as an idea for an event 10 months before as a source of motivation
for others and for self development, it was wonderful to see something a successful as this event proved to be. The greatest buzz for me was that I was able showcase all different cuisines and true flavours of India. But amongst all the fun and stresses of the event coupled with meeting the press and attending TV interviews I knew I had to provide the best cuisine from my kitchen. For me now the best outcome from the Chef responsible for this amazing event would be to make close friends with all the Chefs I met from the CCC and and get to understand more about about their local cuisine and of course the likes and dislikes of the legends they cook for. Once the event is over, a there is a feeling of pride and accomplishment knowing I and my team for have contributed to the whole event and I hope we will gain the recognition among the chef fraternity. I carry lots of memories from the beginning welcome at the hotel to the fond farewell. For
me the most memorable part of the event was the Charity Dinner as I had the opportunity to work with the CCC chefs like Chef Mark Flanagan, Chef Comerford, Chef Christian Garcia, Chef Fabrizio Boca. These Chefs worked with my team each one being responsible for a dish on the menu and I had the opportunity to observe the process, and use different ingredients from around the world and witness the passion and commitment from each of the Chefs. You can feel it. If you don’t see the process, it is very hard to believe. This has been a once in life time opportunity for me to show case myself and my team and all the different colours and flavours of spices available in this amazing country and most importantly its became an opportunity to make good friends with chefs from around the world and to share knowledge and skills and I now realise that all professional chefs speak the same language in terms of food and food quality Prem kumar. Pogakula Executive Chef Imperial Hotel 33
The first evening
Meeting the President of India Pranab Mukherjee 34
Cooking demonstration using the amazing Agnisumukh range
Making a giant Christmas cake
Dinner under the stars
Gala Dinner at the Imperial Hotel
Meeting the Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi 36
The colours and crowds at the famous Spice Market
The Amazing Taj Mahal
Princess Diya Kumari
His Highness Maharaja Sawai Padmanabh Singh 39
Dinner at the Rambagh Palace
And it's Goodbye to an amazing gastronomic tour of India. Thankyou Gilles Bragard for organising 40
by Prem kumar. Pogakula
INGREDIENTS 1ST MARINATION: ● 2400 g Lamb Chops ● 10 tsp Ginger & garlic paste ● 50 g Deghi chilli paste ● Salt to taste 2ND MARINATION: ● 600g Hungcurd ● 50 gm Deghi chilli paste ● 50 gm Ginger & garlic paste ● A pinch dry fenugreek leaf power
● ● ● ● ●
20 g Garam masala powder 100 ml Lemon juice 50 gm Roasted cumin powder 100 ml Mustard oil A pinch Chaat masala powder
METHOD 1. First marination: Take a lamb chop, prick it nicely and marinate with ginger garlic paste, deghi chilli paste and salt. leave it for 30 min 2. Second marination: Take hungcurd, add deghi chill paste, ginger garlic paste, dry
fenugreek leaf powder, garam masala, lemon juice, roasted jeera powder, salt and mix it with lamb chops nicely. Keep it aside, for 2-3 hours. Put the lamb chop with some fresh Pear on a skewer & cook inside pre-heated tandoor (280º C) for 10-12 minutes. Take it out and braise the Lamb with butter and put back in tandoor for another 5 minutes. Remove the lamb chop from the skewer and sprinkle chat masala & lemon juice Serve with mint chutney 41
GANACHE BY SIMON JENKINS
My first year
as a consultant
I wrote, back in February for Chef magazine about my experience in my new role working for myself as a pastry chef consultant advisor. Since then it’s been around 10 months on and Chef magazine has kindly asked to update my journey.
o what can I say…..In terms of the general brief for each project nothing has changed, it is still important working closely with the Executive or General Manager. This is key to maintain a close relationship and an understanding towards any project. This is fundamental to the process, without this there is no future or longevity to what I do. And the chances of getting invited back to build on what has been started will be non-existent. The main focus of evolving a project are still client-focused, primarily ensuring any new idea or creation must fit the client style and property. Then secondly also ensuring consumer expectations are met and or exceeded therefore delivering exactly what the client expects for their customer. This is still one more step in the process than I have previously been used to, but as each project finishes it becomes a little easier moving into the next. As long as you understand your clients’ business then are on the same page in the first place then it will work out successfully for all parties. This is something which makes each project a success; knowing how to understand and deliver the brief and fulfil expectations. There has been some reservations, frustrations and highlights along the way which have been a tremendous learning curve even if you think you have all boxes covered ticked, and crossed before the start they always seem harder and tougher to achieve in some ways. In some cases you might enter into a consultancy after having everything discussed, and aligned then things change from the clients prospective, and they don’t wont to continue with certain items or parts of the project, this is frustrating on one side as you are geared up ready to go, but you need to understand the situation as things can change as you go through a project, timelines change, goals change they can be unexpected. What
this means is that the timeframe for myself being involved may become less as my targets have been reduced. Ingredients can be another issue, you might find the investment is not there for the best on the market which is fine, this is the norm but if I can educate and influence to improve product quality with a finer type of ingredient and justify the use against cost then it is a nice way to improve quality through the change of an ingredient and it shows the individual pastry teams how the slight change in product can affect the finished end result. With the complete understanding that working to clients briefs and to fulfil them is to justify my presence in their business there is the downside of not actually being able to show my complete personal style and creativity in dishes, pastries, and entremets etc to suit my own personal style and inspiration, that said and to slightly contradict myself, I can still put my creative hat on and show the type and style of cookery execution that I would like to leave with the different client. It is also rewarding that I have the diversity to, if I am lucky to mix up different techniques and executions of Patisserie, from something quite classic to the modern across different projects is something which really makes it interesting for me going from one to the other across a week or month can make it fun and exciting and really diverse. Another angle I come across more and more is the dietary side of things. Instead of working with ingredients we all know and are comfortable with and we know these will work such as the sugars, flours and diary items, i have had to embrace different, gluten/wheat free, diary, even sugar free, is like stepping into another world. This automatically gives a smaller platform in terms of ingredients to work with but none the less a real process to get me head into lots to avenues to explore and feels like a great sense of achievement when things work out and great knowledge to have in my repertoire. Always learning and growing even when you are teaching to others
its fantastic to still be getting something out of what I love. There’s no pay check at the end of the month, gone are the days of working your month and getting paid on the last day, or even before and around Christmas time like some places I have worked in previous which really helps you out – now once the project is wrapped up, I raise an invoice and generally get reimbursed within the terms of the invoice. I have heard stories of other people who have waited months to receive reimbursement this I can say has not been my experience so far. I stick to my invoice conditions and follow up! There are no company benefits either, no holiday entitlement no sick pay if I work I get paid if you agree a certain amount of days and don’t show for 1 day or more for example, then its tough, my invoice will get deducted. So self-motivation and drive are key to make sure you are going to get paid!, and this drives me to make sure I deliver as much as I can to the brief. One of the positive things which has been great is the work life balance, being able to be flexible, and to a point choosing, when you can work, occasionally working from home if required adds great freshness to the work approach it also allows me to focus on more without being actually in the business. I love working in this style it gets me to meet a lot more varied types of people and businesses in areas of the industry which, admittedly, I would not have crossed paths with before. Because they are so varied to where I used to work, this is so refreshing and a nice way to network and establish contacts both professionally and developing new potential work clients. All in all on the most part the future is looking great, with new and interesting things on the horizon for the new year which is very exciting, I will be working on new challenges, expanding business plans, and who knows what the future has in store. 43
by Simon Jenkins
RHUBARB, RASPBERRY, CHAMPAGNE 4 portions 3 days in the fridge RHUBARB PARFAIT ● 170g Fresh Yorkshire thick forced rhubarb puree ● 60g Egg yolks ● 90g Caster sugar ● 20g Glucose ● 140g Semi whipped whipping cream
METHOD 1. 2. 3. 4.
Using the yolks and the sugar, glucose make a cooked sabayon Fold the sabayon into the thick puree Lastly fold the cream into the base mix, gently Freeze in round metal rings approx. 8cm diameter, the base lined with a basic vanilla biscuit sponge When frozen cut the circle into 4 equal pieces and place nicely spaced out on a tray back into the freezer making sure the side are clean and sharp looking Store in the freezer to get very firm
PINK COCOA SPRAY ● 300g White chocolate ● 300g Cocoa butter ● 0.12g Red chocolate colour, or enough to turn chocolate dark pink
METHOD 1. 2. 3. 4.
Melt all ingredients together over a bain marie Pass through a dry chinois Spray the pre cut firm parfaits lightly then refreeze Repeat the process one more time, making sure the coating is not thick but just coating the parfait all over Reserve in the freezer
CHAMPAGNE FOAM ● 100g Whole milk ● 100g Caster sugar ● 200g Double cream ● 4g Bronze leaf gelatine, soaked ● 500g Champagne rose 44
Boil the milk, sugar, and cream together Remove from the heat, and dissolve the gelatine Add the champagne, and cool Place in a syphon gun, and add two gases shake well, and fridge for at least 3 hours shaking each 30 minutes
RASPBERRY THYME COMPOTE ● 20g Caster sugar ● 70g Raspberry puree ● 30g Blackcurrant puree ● 1/2no. Vanilla pod, seeds only ● 5g Alcohol de Framboises ● 10g Unsalted butter, diced ● 50g Fresh raspberries
2. 3. 4. 5. 6.
Warm the purees with the vanilla in a pan until simmering remove Meanwhile, boil the sugar to 135°C, stop it cooking with the warmed puree Whisk well together and add the alcohol, off the heat. Allow to cool slightly before adding the butter and blitzing with the hand blender Pass through a chinois Reheat lightly, and add fresh raspberries and lightly break down, cool
TO GARNISH Finely slice a Pain d’epice loafand cut each of the slices into 3rd’s. Place on a silpat and lightly spray with a light sugar syrup. Drizzle lightly with a high quality olive oil. Bake at 160c in the oven until golden and crisp. Remove and cool.
Happy with your couverture? See what Felchlin can offer you. Finest Cocoa Beans, Swiss Quality, Traditional Processing. As a niche producer of the finest Swiss Chocolate, Felchlin create a range of products that are used by top pastry chefs, bakers and confectioners. Their extensive couverture range includes Grand Cru, single plantation and wild bean. When coating truffles or pralines, most of their couverture goes twice as far as a typical Belgian product, and all have fantastic fluidity and longer workability than any other couverture. Working in partnership with the cocoa farmers, Felchlin ensure that the origin of the cocoa, the selection of the bean, the gentle fermentation and drying, the slow roasting and up to 72 hours of conching â€“ together with Swiss quality ingredients - achieve a superior taste. Town & Country Fine Foods are proud to be the exclusive supplier of Felchlin in the UK. Please call 0845 672 8000 or email email@example.com. For more information see www.tcfinefoods.co.uk.
FELCHLIN IS EXCLUSIVELY AVAILABLE IN THE U.K. FROM TOWN & COUNTRY FINE FOODS, THE SPECIALIST SUPPLIER OF CHOCOLATE, PASTRY AND INGREDIENTS TO THE PROFESSIONAL.
BY APPOINTMENT TO HER MAJESTY THE QUEEN, SUPPLIERS OF FINE FOODS, TOWN & COUNTRY FINE FOODS BERKSHIRE
TOWN & COUNTRY FINE FOODS, NO. 4, PERTH TRADING ESTATE, MONTROSE AVENUE, SLOUGH, BERKSHIRE, SL1 4XX, UK +44 (0)845 672 8000 | firstname.lastname@example.org | www.tcfinefoods.co.uk
INGREDIENT: ROSSO DI MAZARA WILD RED PRAWNS
osso Di Mazara wild red prawns (Aristaeomorpha Foliacea) come from the South-West coast of Sicily. They are fished in deep seas (between 500 and 1000 feet) using advanced equipment and techniques. The Rosso Di Mazara prawn has an intense taste with a lightly sweet flavour and pleasant sensation of smoked notes at the end of the tasting. Rosso Di Mazara uses a “flash freezing process” on their fishing vessels. The prawns freshly caught undergo a thermic shock at a temperature of -50° C. It is the best way of preserving the nutritional proprieties of the product, its compactness and taste. This is the only prawn in the world being sulphates free. Most of the shellfish companies use sulphates as an antimicrobial additive to prevent melanosis (discoloration and darkening). But at the same time, sulphates may cause an unpleasant odour, the destruction of the nutritive values and potential allergic reactions. Rosso di Mazara is proud to use the unique technology of “Prawnfresh”, a substitute to
sulphates discovered by the “Life Quality” CE’s program. It guarantees the excellent organoleptic properties of the prawn as well as its colour, texture and odour. Moreover, Rosso Di Mazara went through thorough genomic tests so they can guarantee to each client that they are buying prawns fished in the Mediterranean Sea. According to some statistics, 30% of the food products are counterfeit despite the controls that are in place. That is the reason why Rosso Di Mazara wanted to reassure their clients and end consumers on the product origin. They worked with Parco Tecnologico di Lodi to conduct a series of experiments and we are now able to identify the difference between the red prawn(Aristaeomorpha foliacea) from the Mediterranean and the red prawn of Mozambique origin. Rosso Di Mazara is also the only red prawn in the world with the “Friend of the sea” certification. It guarantees the respect of the sea environment and the marine species. Rosso Di Mazara use fishing methods that don’t damage the marine habitat.
by D ani e l Ga l mi ch e
PAN ROASTED PRAWNS WITH CORIANDER
INGREDIENTS 16 whole Prawns shell on 1 tsp olive oil 150g of unsalted butter 2 garlic cloves finally chopped 1 handful of coriander leaves roughly chopped ● 1 lime cut into wedges ● ● ● ● ●
What makes this dish is the quality and freshness of the Prawns.
The shellfish come in a fragrant butter sauce, flavoured with aromatic coriander, garlic and fresh lime juice. This is served great with buttery rice flavoured with fresh ginger or just a simple salad
METHOD 1. Pre heat the Grill to high. To prepare the Prawns, cut them in half lengthways, then put the cut size down to absorb any water 2. Heat a large frying pan over a high heat until searing hot. Add the oil and one
third of the butter and when the butter is foaming put half the Prawns flesh side down, in the pan. Cook for about 2 minutes, then flip them over, transfer to a roasting tray and repeat with the remaining Prawns 3. Melt the last of the butter in the frying pan until foaming. Stir in the garlic and coriander, then spoon straight away over the Prawns. Put under the grill for 2 minutes, then squeeze the lime juice over the top and serve
This ingredient and recipe is bought to you by Classic Fine Foods who bring you the very best from around the world. We work hard at sourcing great value, innovative and artisan products, building and maintaining our strong relationships with producers we are proud to call our partners Please don’t hesitate to contact us for more information! Telephone: 0207 627 9666 1 email@example.com 1 www.classicfinefoods.co.uk 47
INGREDIENT: AXURIA MILK FED LAMB
xuria milk fed baby lamb comes from the Basque Valley of Soule (Pyrenees Mountains, South West of France) and is a seasonal product, from November to June. Highly prized for its exquisite taste and texture, it is a perfect signature dish. Axuria lambs are exclusively raised on the pastures of the valley of Soule. They are carefully bred from three ancient breeds: redheaded Manech, black-headed Manech and BĂŠarnaise. Animals are bred of the farms where they are born, following thousand-year-old traditions.
Label Rouge accreditation guarantees the product quality and consistency. Lambs roam free all summer at high altitudes and are fed exclusively on their motherâ€™s milk. They are not given any extra food or any antibiotic or hormonal treatment. The lambs are raised for a maximum of 45 days, ensuring a consistently sized carcass. The meat is light coloured, lean and tender with a very delicate flavour that is much less strong than that of older lambs. The exquisite flavours are best showcased when simply grilled or roasted.
By Daniel Galmiche
SHOULDER OF MILK FED LAMB WITH COURGETTE, BLACK GARLIC AND CEVENES ONION
INGREDIENTS ● ● ● ● ●
1 shoulder of milk fed lamb 3 green courgettes 1 Cevenes onion peeled and halved 3 cloves of black garlic 4 new potatoes
METHOD 1. De bone the lamb shoulder 2. Season with salt and black pepper ad give some colour in a medium heat pan. 3. Place in a oven pre heated to 160 degrees and bring to a core temperature of 58 degrees roughly 40 minutes.
4. Ensure to rest for a minimum of 20 minutes. 5. Cut 2 of the courgettes as thin as possible and cook quickly in a dash of vegetable oil. Once tender season with salt blend until smooth and then reserve. 6. Boil the new potatoes in salted water until tender and strain off. Leave to cool slightly 7. Rub the garlic on a chopping board with the back of a knife until smooth. Incorporate some olive oil if its not breaking down. Reserve covered until needed. 8. Cut the Cevens onion in half and roast in the oven at 160 degress until tender. Season with salt an olive oil.
9. With the remaining courgette cut in to quarters and roast in a pan with some rosemary and salt. TO PLATE 10. Carve the lamb in to portions reserving the trimmings. 11. Scoop out the middle of the potatoes and stuff with the lamb trimmings. 12. Place the courgette puree and the garlic paste on first 13. Arrange the lamb and the vegetables nicely on the plate
This ingredient and recipe is bought to you by Classic Fine Foods who bring you the very best from around the world. We work hard at sourcing great value, innovative and artisan products, building and maintaining our strong relationships with producers we are proud to call our partners Please don’t hesitate to contact us for more information! Telephone: 0207 627 9666 1 firstname.lastname@example.org 1 www.classicfinefoods.co.uk 49
THE FRENCH TRADITIONAL FLOUR ‘LA PÂTISSIÈRE’
he best products are always those made by the best craftsmen. To have good flour every step in the process must be respected: from the work of the cereal farmers to the transformation of the wheat grains into soft, beautiful flour…
La Pâtissière flour is made at the familyowned Moulin Paul Dupuis, milling company located in Gournay-en-Bray, a charming village in the Normandy region of France. Built back in the 18th century, the mill is run today by Lionel Deloingce, the 4th generation of Deloingce millers to own and run the business.
Milling flour is as delicate and technical a process as is making wine and requires a wealth of experience. Choosing the best wheat variety and the right method of milling the flour all depends on the intended use of the finished product by the baker or pastry chef. Which flour to use if defined by what you intend to bake.
La Pâtissière is a special French flour, Type 55, milled from the finest wheat and made exclusively for craft bakers. This high-quality flour was designed to help bakers who wish to offer the finest quality products and the very best taste to their pastries.
The miller is above all passionate about what he does, someone who lives for his profession and whose goal is to share his love of flour and of course the beautiful bread it can become…
The Moulin Paul Dupuis prides itself on its tight control of every step in the milling process and has implemented a food safety management system from reception of the wheat to shipping of the
final product to guarantee optimal results. It also has its own bakery laboratory to test the baking properties of all the flours it produces. Luxury quality products made in France that respect the art of baking and the people, from the grower to the craft bakers, who make it possible Moulin Paul Dupuis is proud to work with famous French pastry, chefs and master bakers, including Stéphane Glacier, Meilleur Ouvrier de France Pâtissier [highest distinction in a professional competition held every four years] and we would like to thank him here for his Chou Crumble recipe with red summer fruits that he created especially for us! Made with La Pâtissière flour - a wonder to the eyes and the taste! 51
By Stéphane Glacier, Meilleur Ouvrier de France Pâtissier
CHOU CRUMBLE WITH RED BERRIES
aint Honoré, choux chantilly, éclair, religieuse, ParisBrest... All these lip-smacking pastries have one thing in common: pâte à choux! Although seemingly simple, this dough requires a certain amount of dexterity and experience mixing the right ingredients exactly as they should be mixed while cooking. The greatest chefs, their trainees and assistants, gourmets and enthusiasts have passed on this know-how from generation to generation. First of all, some history is necessary to understand It was in the 16th century when the savoury secret was revealed. An Italian pastry-maker by the name of Pantanelli is generally believed to have fathered the recipe. He was in the retinue of Queen Catherine de Médicis (born in Florence in 1519, the mother of Queen Margot, Catherine was a renowned patroness of the arts). On the occasion of a celebration, with every artist competing to stun and awe the royal audience, Pantanelli’s successor, Popelini, gave a great display of his talents before the queen. A daring and talented creator, Popelini improved on the recipe of his master Pantanelli. He rethought the original “pâte à chaud”, a dough kept on a stove until partially dry, then, using a spoon, divided into small “choux” to be baked in the oven and stuffed with fruit jelly. The bid was successful, the court and the queen were won over and the new pastry was christened “le poupelin”. Only in the 18th century did it become known as “pâte à
choux”, after being perfected by Jean Avice, a pastry maker for Talleyrand (1754-1838, a French statesman and diplomat) and Antonin Carème (1784-1833). Antonin Carème was at the time a French chef and pastry maker, known and renowned as “king of chefs and chef for kings”. He was
the first person to bear the title of Chef. He created many recipes based on the pâte à choux, such as the delicious and celebratory Pièce Montée... Now you know it all or nearly so. So, “pat-a-chou” for your delight (and ours)!
We thank Stéphane Glacier, Meilleur Ouvrier de France Pâtissier [highest distinction in a craftsmen contest held every four years], for his creation - a wonder to the eyes and the taste!
INGREDIENTS PÂTE À CHOUX WITH CRUMBLE Ingredients for 50 individual pieces approximately.
cassonade and then the flour. Stir until dough is smooth. Using a rolling mill, roll out to 2.5 mm thickness between two guitar sheets. Cut out disks 6 cm in diameter. Store in freezer and place on the pâte à choux just after garnishing.
PÂTE À CHOUX 380 g water 120 g whole milk 4 g salt 16 g sugar 200 g butter 300 g flour La Pâtissière Moulin Paul Dupuis ● 500 g eggs How to make the dough: Sieve the flour. Whisk the eggs and sieve or beat with an electric mixer. In a pan, bring the water, milk, salt, sugar and butter to a boil, then remove from heat and whisk in the sieved flour. Place back on low flame for the mix to dry and stir with a spatula until the dough no longer sticks to the sides of the pan. Using a cage whisk, mix in the eggs gradually until desired consistency is reached. For a more supple dough, after mixing in all the eggs, it is best to add a small amount of tepid milk rather than adding more egg in order to obtain the desired texture. Fashion the pâte à choux to the desired shape and size. For the choux crumble: Use pâte à choux that is firm enough. Using a PF 20 pastry bag with a bevelled tip, fashion choux 6 cm in diameter on a plate lined with a “Silpain” sheet. Top each chou with a uniform layer of crumble then sprinkle with confectionary sugar. Bake on 160°C in oven for 25 to 30 mn keeping the oven door open.
● ● ● ● ● ●
CHOU CRUMBLE WITH RED BERRIES This recipe yields 12 pieces VANILLA MOUSSELINE CREAM ● 300 g whole milk ● One half vanilla bean ● 60g egg yolks ● 70 g sugar ● 25 g cream powder ● 125 g butter Heat up the milk and half the sugar with the scraped vanilla bean. In a bowl, whisk the egg yolks with the remaining sugar then the cream powder. Once the milk is boiling, pour part of it on to the yolks, then pour it all back into the milk. Bring it to a boil and simmer for about 2 mn while stirring. Spread the pastry cream on a stainless steel tray covered with film. Cover it with film and place it in the freezer in order to cool it down immediately.
Place the softened butter in the whisk bowl then whisk and add the pastry cream. Whisk again. RED BERRY CHUTNEY ● 150 g frozen red berry mix ● 150 g red berry purée ● 110 g sugar ● 6 g NH pectin Heat the frozen red berries and the red berry purée to 70°C with half the sugar. Stir together the NH pectin and the remaining sugar and add to the berries. Whisk and bring to a boil, then simmer for 5 mn until the mix has the consistency of jam. Cool down and store in fridge. FILLING SQ [sufficient quantity] raspberries SQ strawberries SQ redcurrant SQ blueberries Assembly and garnishing: With a serrated knife, slice in half. Using a pastry bag with a plain tip, fill the bottom of the chou with red berry chutney, about 30 g per chou. Place a large scoop of vanilla mousseline cream on top, then add a few raspberries, strawberries, blueberries and red currant berries. Top with frosting.
RED BERRY CHOU CRUMBLE INGREDIENTS pâte à choux, red berry chutney, vanilla mousseline cream, fresh red berries.
Vanilla mousseline cream
● 125 g butter ● 65 g cassonade (unrefined brown sugar) ● 160 g flour Using a cage whisk, soften the butter. Add the
Red berry chutney
Pâte à choux
This ingredient and recipe is bought to you by Classic Fine Foods who bring you the very best from around the world. We work hard at sourcing great value, innovative and artisan products, building and maintaining our strong relationships with producers we are proud to call our partners Please don’t hesitate to contact us for more information! Telephone: 0207 627 9666 1 email@example.com 1 www.classicfinefoods.co.uk 53
MODERNIST CUISINE: COMPETITION
WIN your copy of
Modernist Cuisine worth £425.00 C
hef Journal and Classic Fine Foods are giving you the opportunity to be the owner of the full five volumes of Modernist Bread: The Art and Science, coauthored by Francisco Migoya and Nathan Myhrvold. The largest-known bread cookbook to date, this encyclopedia of bread combines scientific methods with baking to create truly outstanding and innovative recipes. Arriving on the market in June 2017, the books come in a sleek, stainless steel case. Worth £425, and full of all the knowledge you will need for creating exceptional bread, this is not a chance to be missed. To be in for a chance of winning this fantastic prize, simply send us your favourite recipes for what you like to eat on bread This can be a condiment such as your favourite marmalade or jam or your favourite sandwich or your favourite dish which includes bread (I am hoping for some amazing bread and butter pudding recipes) or the classic French Toast recipe The contestant with the best recipe this being determined by Denis Dramé MCA, Pastry Chef from The TasteLab by Classic Fine Foods London will become the owner of this unique cookbook. To enter, please send your recipes with an image if possible to firstname.lastname@example.org
Toast and Jam 55
COOKING THE BOOKS: MODERNIST CUISINE
The world’s largest bread cookbook Modernist bread: the art and science This ground-breaking publication will radically enhance and offer new insight into bread knowledge, practical, theoretical and historical. When Modernist Bread debuts in 2017, it will be the most in-depth bread cookbook published. It totals over 2,300 pages that span five volumes plus a kitchen manual. The set presented in a fingerprint resistant stainless steel case covers the science and global history of bread making, in addition to traditional and Modernist techniques, ingredients, and recipes. The Modernist Cuisine culinary team developed more than 1,500 new recipes for the book, rigorously testing each loaf in professional and home ovens to ensure accessibility for all types of baker. The author Nathan Myhrvold stated, “Today there is no recognized Modernist bread movement, but there should be. This book is a combination of very practical knowledge and ideas that are right at the cutting edge of bread research to empower bakers of all persuasions. Some bakers will want to make traditional breads in
old ways, and some will want to make those same breads in new ways.” Modernist Bread reflects more than four years of independent research by Myhrvold and his team of chefs, scientists, photographers, and editors, as well as collaborations with and counsel from industry leaders around the world. The illustrious contributors include historians Jim Chevallier and Steven Kaplan, grain experts Dr. Stephen Jones and Maria Speck; scientists Stanley Cauvain and Carl Hoseney, bakers Emily Buehler, Ken Forkish, Richard Miscovich, Apollonia Poilâne, Peter Reinhart, and Didier Rosada. The book is being published by The Cooking Lab, Myhrvold’s in-house publishing department and producer of the awardwinning Modernist Cuisine: The Art and Science of Cooking, Modernist Cuisine at Home, and The Photography of Modernist Cuisine books. Additional details can be found on modernistbread.com.
All images in this feature courtesy of The Cooking Lab LLC
COOKING THE BOOKS: MODERNIST CUISINE
About the authors:
Nathan Myhrvold is founder of The Cooking Lab and lead author of Modernist Cuisine: The Art and Science of Cooking, Modernist Cuisine at Home, The Photography of Modernist Cuisine, and the forthcoming book Modernist Bread: The Art and Science. He routinely pushes the boundaries of culinary science as a chef, scientist, photographer, and writer. He has had a passion for food and photography since he was a boy. At a young age he consumed cooking books and invested in new cameras and lenses—even while doing postdoctoral cosmology work with Stephen Hawking. While working as the chief technology officer of Microsoft, he took a leave of absence to earn his culinary diploma from École de Cuisine La Varenne in France. Myhrvold retired from Microsoft in 1999 to found Intellectual Ventures and pursue several interests, including photography, cooking, and food science. Inspired by the void in literature about culinary science and the cutting-edge techniques used in the world’s best restaurants, Myhrvold assembled the Modernist Cuisine team to share the art and science of cooking with others, hoping to pass on his own curiosity and passion for the movement. Francisco Migoya leads the Modernist Cuisine culinary team as head chef. Together with Nathan Myhrvold, he directs culinary research and the development of new techniques and recipes for Modernist Bread: The Art and Science. An innovative pastry chef, his most recent book, The Elements of Dessert (John Wiley & Sons, 2012), won a 2014 International Association of Culinary Professionals Cookbook Award in the Professional Kitchens category. He has been recognized as a top U.S. pastry chef and chocolatier, with accolades that include the Medal of Master Artisan Pastry Chef (2013) from Gremi de Pastisseria de Barcelona. Migoya owned Hudson Chocolates in New York and worked at both the French Laundry and Bouchon Bakery as executive pastry chef. Prior to joining the Modernist Cuisine team, Migoya was a professor at the Culinary Institute of America, where his areas of instruction included bread, viennoiserie, pastry, and culinary science. 59
All images in this feature courtesy of The Cooking Lab LLC
MEET THE SUPPLIER: PIDY GOURMET
A pAstry tour of EuropE
in less than
48 hours! N
ow, if like me, you had preconceived ideas about readymade pastry, then let me attempt and change your perception, in the same way the trip did for me. The team at Pidy hasn’t grown to become the leader in this sector without reason. A focus on taste, texture, colour and consistency has led the Belgian brand to create a diverse range of pastry that is enjoyed by customers in more than 50 countries worldwide. Founded by André Dehaeck from his well-known pastry shop in Ypres, Belgium, Pidy (Patisserie Industry Dehaeck Ypres), was officially established in 1967. Specialising in dry puff pastry, shortcrust, foncage dough, and choux pastry, Pidy produces its range of products in a traditional way from manufacturing sites, in the USA, France and Belgium. After a brief introduction to those on the press trip at St Pancras International in London, we hopped on the Eurostar for a quick journey across the continent to Lille in France where our first stop would be the company’s production site at Halluin on the Belgian/ French border. An impressive site at which 100 of Pidy’s dedicated employees produce wonderfully rich Sablée, short crust, foncage dough and the company’s most popular style, puff pastry, as well as a new range of already award-winning gluten free products. As part of our trip, we were given an exclusive tour of 61
the site. Walking through the process, we saw first-hand how much of an emphasis Pidy place on the quality of the ingredients and the simple, yet consistent recipes used in the creation of the different products. What immediately stood out for me was the importance of sourcing the right ingredients in order to maintain the wonderful textures and flavours that Pidy’s customers have
become accustom to. For starters, the company sources five different types of flour, two different types of butter, free range eggs and various different vegetable oils, all delivered directly from the supplier to the Pidy factory daily. Upon receipt, each ingredient is thoroughly checked and certified for use before being stored inside the warehouse, which is closely monitored for temperature and cleanliness and operates a crucial ‘first in, first out’ process. A relatively manual process, the site has been set up in an efficient way, enabling employees to closely monitor the mixing of ingredients to create the significant qualities of dough needed, to the carefully planned resting period and the baking process in vast conveyor ovens. One of the more recent developments to the Halluin site is the dedicated gluten free facility. A completely self-contained setup within the building, the gluten free production area was developed to cater for the ever growing demand of those with speciality diets. Featuring completely separate equipment, ingredient storage, specially trained dedicated
M E E T T H E S U P P L I E R: PiDy GOurMet
staff and a self-contained packaging room to prevent cross-contamination with other products in the Pidy range, the new ‘glutenfree’ offering is already showing one of the biggest year on year growths of the portfolio. This growth has already resulted in further discussions about expanding this dedicated facility to cope with the increased demand. At this point, we were challenged to identify, by both taste and appearance, the gluten free items in a selection of products. It was this comparison that made me appreciate just how good the flavour and texture of the gluten-free Pidy products really is. (And by the way, no I couldn’t!) A short trip across the border into Belgium, saw our group arrive at Pidy’s main production facility and head office in Ypres. It is here that much of the company’s renowned Puff pastry is made. Larger than Halluin, the site is a hub of production, storage and logistics for this international business. Once again, the one thing that stood out for me during the walkaround, was the emphasis placed on flavour, quality and consistency at every stage. Staff were busily inspecting each pastry coming
off the line to make sure only the best was being delivered to the customer. The site at Ypres offered a greater element of automation compared to Halluin, but still the human element was key. After touring both sites, it was time for some of the company’s global executives to talk us through Pidy as a business and some of the exciting plans for the future. Having recently been taken over by the large familyowned, French confectionary brand, Biscuit Bouvard, Pidy has some exciting times ahead. Initially, this is going to be in the shape of the integration of Technipat’s sponge sheets into the range, something that as a chef, is a truly exciting prospect, but in the future is expected to see significant investment and growth for the business, both in the UK and around the world. Now as mentioned previously, I had my reservations on how good ready-to-fill pastry could be, but let me tell you, Pidy’s approach to using the very best ingredients and quality recipes developed over the past 50 years is worth way more than the perception of
buying in pre-made pastry for a chef. With a list of customers that includes everything from chains and groups to high-end Michelin starred kitchens, Pidy’s range really is suitable for all. Eliminating the labour intensive process of making pastry and the inconsistency of the bake, the range of sweet and savoury canapes, quiche cases, tellines, choux pastries and soon to be introduced sponge sheets in a choice of flavours and with the option of inclusions, is sure
to transform your menu and open opportunities that will make you wonder why you weren’t using ready-to-fill pastry in your kitchen before. What I really like about the products is that they still allow chef to add their creative flair and imagination. These are not products that replace what the chef or brigade create, they are products which are a canvas for the culinary artist to develop, enhance and personalise. 63
The Artis professional emporium Everything in one place for the table and bar
Adding to our Portfolio
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CANNING, PRESERVING & SERVING JARS
- the ultImate solutIon
he Lock-Eat® collection from Luigi Bormioli is a new range of innovative transparent glass jars and carafes. Especially designed to enable chefs to more easily can, preserve and serve food at table. The Lock-Eat® collection is exclusively distributed to the UK foodservice industry by Artis. HOW Lock-Eat ® WORKS Lock-Eat® makes it possible to easily preserve fruit, vegetables, jams & jellies, syrups and fruit juices. The Lock-Eat® jar or carafe is sealed off from the air by means of a fully detachable glass lid, a natural rubber gasket and a stainless steel elastic clamp to avoid the development of bacteria. During cooking, the elastic clamp allows internal steam and air to be expelled without allowing any external air in. Once the jar has cooled down after cooking, a vacuum will have taken place inside the jar. The vacuum is released by pulling on the rubber tab. It is possible to test for a vacuum at any time by simply attempting to lift the stainless steel elastic clamp. Being made from glass, the contents of the jar may be visually checked at any time. The Lock-Eat® system, which has a fully detachable lid and closure, is both freezer and dishwasher safe. The jars are also stackable to save on storage space. By removing the stainless steel elastic clamp, the jar can also be microwaved. The standard jar lid fits all sizes of jar bases and, likewise, carafe lids can be used with any size of carafe. The eco-friendly jar and lid are re-usable and fully recyclable. CONTEMPORARY TABLE SERVING SOLUTION The Innovative Lock-Eat ® Jars and glass lids have been created to present food in an original way; from appetizers and finger foods to desserts. They can be used for service at the table, bar, buffet and breakfast servings. They particular lend themselves to the service of single serving foods and amuse-bouche. The Lock-Eat® collection is functional, multipurpose and at the same time an expression of contemporary design. The range comprises terrine jars in four sizes – 8, 12.5, 20 and 35cl. The carafes, which are meant primarily for liquids, come in three sizes - 25 and 50cl or 1 litre. For more information go to http://www.artis-uk.com/productlist/4/5407/Lock-eat_jars.html or call 020 8391 5544.
FRONT OF HOUSE
Wine Trends for 2017
The rise and rise of Prosecco sales continued unabated in the restaurant sector
n terms of the more commercial side of wine sales, on trade sales of the three “staples” continued unabated. New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, Argentine Malbec and Prosecco still dominate on wine lists. According to Wine & Spirit Association of GB and NI, sales of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and Argentina Malbec saw the strongest growth in 2016. 27 million bottles of Argentine wine were sold in the UK in 2016 and £546 million was spent in 2016 on New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc .
The rise and rise of Prosecco sales continued unabated in the on trade, especially in the restaurant sector. Recent figures from IRI a leading provider of data and predictive analytics show that Champagne prices have fallen in the UK by - 7% since the EU referendum in June. The UK Champagne market is worth around a third of a billion Euros (€333m). However, this is now dwarfed by Prosecco sales of €600m with Prosecco sales growing in the UK by a staggering
+ 25% in value and volume. Only the UK and the US spend more on Prosecco than Champagne. The UK drinks 2.5 times more Prosecco than Italy. In 1973, as Marlborough’s first Sauvignon Blanc vines were being planted, no one could have predicted that this variety would attain the superstar status it has today. The explosive flavours of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc have created a huge international
demand for the style. Pungently aromatic, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc assails the senses with red capsicum (bell peppers) and gooseberry characters, with lush passionfruit and tropical fruit notes. Fresh cut grass, tomato stalk and lime flavours added to the mix give this wine style its enormous appeal. According to the NZ Annual Report released in 2016 the market for New Zealand wine overall grew by +8% on the UK market. Wines of Argentina, reports that Argentina has exported 80 million dollars’ worth of wines to the UK in 2016 and now ranks 11th place on this market. Argentina’s share in the UK bottled wine import market has grown to 2.8%, representing a remarkable expansion in the last three years. The UK market, importing more than 2.8 billion dollars’ worth of bottled wines, has become the second largest import market in the world, following the United States, and today purchases 10% of all exported Argentine bottled wines. Today, every top UK restaurant showcases at least one Argentine Malbec on its wine list. Taking a look beyond the daily commercial activity relating to wine sales from a wine perspective there are two countries leading the way in terms of innovation. Who would have thought Chile and South Africa would be the two most exciting wine producing countries for 2017? We covered South Africa in the September issue of Chef, highlighting next generation of South African producers. These producers, most of whom are under 30 are making superb quality wines from emerging regions such as Swartland. Swartland varietals especially their Sauvignon Blanc, are ones to watch in 2017.
made from a blend of Carmenere (50%), Cabernet Sauvignon (30%) and Petit Verdot( 20%). Casa Silva produce 5,000 bottles of this a year but in terms of what Carmenere is capable of, this is an outstanding example. Casa Silva is distributed in the UK by Jackson Nugent Vintners www.jnv.co.uk Caballo Loco was launched as a range of varietal regional specific wines in 2016. I attended a tasting presented by Jorge Coderch of Vina Valdivieso. The company has a wealth of vineyards and the quality of the terroir is shown by this single vineyard wine range. Caballo Loco (Crazy Horse) was launched 3 years ago as a range of terroir wines, one of the first ultra-premium wines to use a non-vintage solera system in the winemaking process. I tasted their new Caballo Loco Grand Cru series which includes a Syrah from Limari, Malbec from Maipo, Carmenere from Apalta and Cabernet Sauvignon from Maipo and was very impressed by their structure and quality. Caballo Loco is distributed in the UK by Conviviality Plc www. bibendum-wine.co.uk This single vineyard varietal range is certainly one to look at including on any innovative wine list in 2017. Another big trend in the global wine world during 2016 was the rise and rise of natural and “orange” wines. The term “orange wine” is more or less new. It describes wines made from white grapes which have been left in contact with grape skins over a longer period of time. One of the key countries producing this innovative wine style is Georgia.
In the mid-price/premium sector, new wine styles from Chile prove that Chile can innovate with the best. Chilean producers are now producing wines in cooler more far flung regions to the north and south of the central valley.
Georgia has an 8,000 years history of continuous wine making tradition. Numerous archeological discoveries left historians in no doubt that Georgia is the birthplace of wine. What makes Georgian wine unique is its centuries-old winemaking method – Qvevri. Clay vessels dating back to the Neolithic era are still being used to ferment and create delicious, rich, organic wines. This ancient Georgian tradition of Qvevri winemaking produces these glorious “amber wines“ as the Georgian prefer to call them.
Last year two Chilean producers stood out for me, including probably the best Carmenere I have ever tasted, courtesy of Mario Pablo Silva of Casa Silva. The coastal range of Colchagua Valley is the site for their Carmenere. Their 2009 Altura is an Icon wine
Georgia is known for over 525 indigenous grape varieties grow in 10 winemaking regions spread over numerous climatic zones. The Georgian Wine Agency is now actively targeting the UK market with their unique styles of Qvevri wines (both red and white).
Producers to look out for include TchotiaShvili, Shalauri Cellars, Matrobela Wines, Badagoni, Marani and Schuchmann Wines of Georgia. For more information www.georgianwine. cov.ge or contact: Nikoloz Kerkadze, Marketing Manager, National Wine Agency, Georgia Mob.: +995 599 252423 E-mail: Nqerqadze@hotmail.com Keep an eye out too for Wines from Lebanon who have been running a very active promotion on the UK market. Their dynamic director Michael Karam has been travelling the globe in recent years raising awareness about their wines. A tutored tasting presented by Michael in 2016 was certainly a revelation. The red wines were world class, but the whites produced from the indigenous white grapes Merweh, Obeideh and Bayada were a revelation. Red wines are mostly made from French varietals including Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, Carignan, Cinsault and Grenache. Producing wine in an area wracked by war and civil unrest is no easy task, however, it is interesting to note that the number of wineries, now actively producing commercial wine in the Lebanon has grown from 4 in 1991 to 45 in 2016. Of these Château Ksara (founded in 1857 and by far the oldest of the group) is the largest, producing 2.7 million bottles per annum (Halgarten Druitt). Other key producers include Château Kefraya (Lebanese Fine Wines), Château Musar (Chateau Musar UK), Château St Thomas (Lebanese Fine Wines) Domaine Wardy (Lebanese Fine Wines), Domaine des Tourelles (Boutinot), Ixsir (Enotria), Chateau Marsyas (H2Vin) and Massaya (Thorman Hunt). Lebanon produces approximately 9 million bottles per annum from an area under vine of approximately 2,400 ha. Winemaking in the region has a 5,000 year history. The main wine region is Bekka which accounts for 90% of total production, other key regions include North Lebanon, Jbeil, Mount Lebanon, Chouf and South Lebanon. The UK is their largest market and accounts for 23% of all exports. For more information contact Michael Karam firstname.lastname@example.org www.winesoflebanon.co.uk 67
NEWS GASTRONOMES – PROMOTING UK HOSPITALITY STANDARDS FOR OVER A CENTURY
What is a Gastronome? Many readers will have never heard of Réunion des Gastronomes, but all that is soon to change as the organisation unveils a new initiative to support fresh talent (more of which later). But what exactly constitutes a ‘gastronome’? Dictionary definitions include simply ‘gourmet’ and ‘someone who enjoys and knows about high quality food and drink’. And that is exactly how Réunion des Gastronomes – the UK’s oldest culinary organisation – started. In August 1899, a group of like-minded individuals, each with a common interest in the hotel and catering profession, decided to meet monthly in members’ establishments. This was to discuss, exchange ideas and opinions and, most importantly, develop, support and promote culinary art in every way possible. It is, in fact, believed that there had been meetings prior to this time, but no records were kept. Establishments hosting these early meetings included the then wellknown venues in London such as Hotel Cecil, Palmerston Restaurant 68
and Café d’Europe, whose managers were some of the founder members. And today, some 120 years later, the Gastronomes still meet on a monthly basis, and the membership reads like a veritable ‘who’s who’ of the UK hospitality industry. Membership of this esteemed culinary organisation is restricted to 200 members. Past members have included a raft of iconic names such as Escoffier, Oddenino, Ritz, Quaglino, Lyons, and four generations of the Gorings. Indeed, Escoffier joined the Reunion in December 1899, the year it was founded, at the time being executive chef of the famous Carlton Hotel, which was founded by Cesar Ritz. Interestingly, in 1913 Escoffier employed a young pastry chef there, one Ho Chi Minh, who of course went on to become President of Vietnam. Membership of the Réunion is restricted to Owners, Senior Executives and Senior Managers who have a proven record in the provision of professional high quality food and beverage services
98th Annual Banquet For nearly a century ‘The Reunion’ – as it is often affectionately called - was an entirely male organisation. But now of course, in the 21st Century, lady members are equally welcomed. Members have raised considerable funds over the years for the President’s Fund, which has supported a number of initiatives at the core of the hospitality education system. Establishments including Westminster Kingsway College and the University of West London have been past beneficiaries.
A New Award – a Great Opportunity But this autumn saw the launch of a new initiative: The Réunion des Gastronome Award. Launched in early November at the 98th Annual Banquet at the Langham Hotel, this unique annual award has a prize worth over £3000 but in terms of potential benefits, is inestimable. The successful candidate will be offered up to four two-day placements (or ‘stages’) across a number of different sectors. He or she will, of course, choose the four, depending on their experience to date, but they will have a varied choice from, among others: hotels, restaurants, contract caterers; London Clubs and even the award-winning prison rehabilitation and training charity project The Clink.
– by Peter Marshall
I was intrigued to be a guest at The 98th Annual Banquet of the Reunion des Gastronomes, an fascinatingly formal event, somewhat reminiscent of a City Livery company dinner; black tie of course, with decorations being worn. Such is the reputation of this highlight in the Gastronomes’ calendar that it is always well attended and this year was no exception. It was held in the elegant Grand Ballroom of The Langham, flagship of the Hong Kong– based Langham Hotels International. After a champagne (courtesy of Laurent Perrier) and canapé reception, we moved through to our tables. I was delighted to find myself seated next to Anton Mosimann and his lovely wife who updated me on their life in Switzerland and Anton’s latest project, a cookery school. With Michael Shepherd, GM of The London Hilton on Park Lane, also a dining companion, I was well placed to embark on the epic dinner created by Executive Chef Chris King and his brigade, matched with some superb wines. (see below)
*** Scottish Langoustine salad, black truffle dressing, castelfranco, potato tuile Von Buhl Bone Dry Riesling 2015
But these placements/stages are not the only prize for the winner. They will also receive invitations to attend a further five Gastronome events in the course of the following year, together with mentoring from members throughout. They will also be awarded Associate membership of Réunion des Gastronomes for up to four years. Shortlisted finalists will each receive an invitation to attend - with any necessary travel and accommodation costs being reimbursed - two Gastronome events in the lead up to the final announcement.
*** Braised Hare and chestnut ‘boudin noir’ celeriac purée, cèpe powder St Amour, Clos des Billards 2009
*** Roast fillet of Buccleuch beef, ricotta stuffed endive, aged balsamic Château Tour St Joseph, cru bourgeois 2009 Haut Médoc
Commenting on the launch of the Réunion des Gastronomes Award, Serge Pradier, President, said: “We are excited and proud to be able to provide the chance for such serious career enhancement and mentoring for someone in our industry. We deliberately chose not to restrict the age for applicants, as we wanted to include the many people who have chosen a total career change later in life. I am delighted that this has come to fruition during my time as President and we look forward to meeting the shortlisted applicants.”
*** Praline Profiteroles, caramelised hazelnut, Langham chocolate sauce
So, do you know someone or have a team member who should apply for this great opportunity? Or maybe you, yourself, fancy applying? Full details are available on the website: gastronomes.org. Applicants must be in full-time employment, at a supervisory level or above, and there is no age limitation. In addition, applications from those who would already quality for membership of The Gastronomes will be offered the opportunity to become a member. The closing date for for applications is 1 March 2017. The winner will be announced at the 99th Annual Banquet which will take place in November.
After dinner, there were some sage and interesting observations on the industry from guest speaker Ben Warner, founder of Benugo. This was a popular and appropriate choice as the current President of the Reunion des Gastronomes is Serge Pradier, who works for Benugo, heading up the hospitality operations at The Institute of Directors.
So what are you waiting for? Spread the word to your team and other contacts now and help give someone’s career a massive boost!
Beaumes de Venise Terre Blonde 2014
*** Coffee and Petits Fours Kopke Tawny Port 10 years old
The talk was followed by some unique and memorable entertainment. Patrick Pradier, (Serge’s twin brother and a trained chef) popped across from Paris, where he works for the French Government, to treat us to a recital of classic French songs. This was a veritable ‘Maurice Chevalier’ touch and a great finale to a fabulous evening. It was made even more memorable when Serge later joined his brother on the stage for a great double act!
NEWS TOP CHEFS MAKE BESPOKE VALENTINES CHOCOLATE BOXES TO RAISE MONEY TO HELP YOUNG PEOPLE INTO EMPLOYMENT London, UK – (November 2016): Top chefs have come together to make Valentine’s Day a little bit more special to help young people who are not in education or employment, by participating in Chocs for Chance. From 27 January 2017 a 10 day online auction called Chocs for Chance will be held on eBay, and everyone is invited to bid on the luxury Valrhona chocolate boxes for their loved ones to receive on Valentine’s Day. The auction will not only provide the perfect gift for a loved one on Valentine’s Day, but will help provide more young people with the opportunity to participate in Galvin’s Chance. Galvin’s Chance is an inspirational into-work programme for young people in London who face barriers to employment. The programme seeks to predominantly target those at risk of crime and offer them a real alternative. Galvin’s Chance was founded by Chris Galvin, Chef Patron, and Fred Sirieix, General Manager of the Michelin-starred restaurant Galvin at Windows and star of Channel 4’s “First Dates”. The programme takes 15-20 young people a year and offers them training and opportunities for a front of house career in some of the most prestigious hotels, restaurants and food service management organisations in London. Galvin’s Chance candidates undertake a three weeks training programme and are guaranteed an interview and work placement in some of London’s top hotels restaurants, including the Royal Automobile Club, Harrods and the Dorchester. Since 2009, a total of 160 young people have enrolled in the programme, and 80% of them have gone on to secure long term, successful careers. Others have started their own businesses or gone to secure employment in other sectors. To raise money to support this cause, Fred and Chris have gathered well-known chefs, chocolatiers, bakers and food writers to take part in Chocs for Chance. Since it was launched in 2015, Chocs for Chance has featured incredible Valrhona chocolate creations made by household names including Michel Roux Jr, Raymond Blanc OBE, Paul A Young and Xanthe Clay to name just a few. In the two years the auction has been running it has raised just under 70
£15,000 to give disadvantaged young people in London a second chance. The 2017 auction is sponsored by Martell, the oldest of the great cognac houses in the UK; and supported by Keylink, who are providing the iconic red velvet heart-shaped boxes, and Valrhona, the prestigious French chocolate company, who (for the third year running) have donated the delicious chocolate couverture which chefs will use to create their masterpieces. “Galvin’s Chance is amazing because it is about the industry giving a chance to young people. We believe success is contextual and so if you give people guidance, opportunities and support, they will succeed and that is why we do it” - Fred Sirieix. “I love what Chris and Fred have done. Too many young people feel like they have no future or do not have aspirations, it is important we teach them a career and to believe in themselves”-
Michel Roux Jnr “Thanks to initiatives like Chocs for Chance, we can work together to support the lives of unemployed young people into stable careers within the hospitality sector and help them fulfil their potential and change their lives for the better” – Chris Galvin. Chocs for Chance will raise funds to support future Galvin’s Chance programmes, offering more young people the opportunity to turn their lives around. Prince, a former Galvin’s Chance apprentice, said: “To be honest it has been difficult …it’s not easy to completely change your life; it’s a challenge and difficult to cope sometimes with outside pressures, but if I hadn’t done this I would be dead. It’s saved my life. This whole experience has made me feel different inside.” For more information and links to all of the chef’s profiles and chocolate boxes, please visit: http:// www.chocsforchance.org
ThE TASTE LAB January march 2017 events The Pastry World of Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons by Benoit Blin mca
3 Day hands-on training January 31st – February 2nd 2017 Level: Intermediate/Advanced
by denis dramé mca 1 Day hands-on workshop February 21st 2017 Level: Beginner/Intermediate
Pastry Creation by angelo musa mof Capfruit 3 Day hands-on training February 28th – March 2nd 2017 Level: Advanced
French Bakery by Joel Defives MOF Moulin Paul Dupuis 3 Day hands-on training March 21st – March 23rd 2017 Level: Intermediate/Advanced
Blond orelys by luke frost Valrhona Demonstration 4 sessions available March 29th 2017: 8.30am – 11.30am or 2.00pm – 5.00pm March 30th 2017: 8.30am -11.30am or 2.00pm – 5.00pm Level: Beginner/Intermediate
Email: email@example.com 71
NEWS DIVINE PARTNERSHIP IN WAREWASH PROJECT
meg Foodservice recently developed a fruitful partnership with Luton-based commercial kitchen specialists Roland Allen to provide a suitable warewashing solution for the Caversham Heights Methodist Church in Reading. Talking about the project, Steven Wright, Roland Allen’s director, says, “This is the first time that we have worked with Smeg and the relationship came about after I contacted Smeg’s Martin Dawson asking about what Smeg could offer. “The church was looking for a quality, reliable dishwasher that could step up to the occasional large celebrations that bring larger congregations and groups like Christmas and Easter, but also be easy to use and have plenty of space for the ubiquitous cups and saucers that come out on Sundays and a couple of other days in the week. “I have to say the Smeg CW522SD dishwasher that was chosen for the church fits the bill perfectly, especially with its two tray option and easy to use controls. Working with Martin was a pleasure and we now have several Smeg warewashers available in our stock.”
Innovative equipment worth putting on your menu.
01892 831 960
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Published on Jan 9, 2017
In this issue we interview Daniel Galmiche about his work with Norwegian Seafood Council. We debate the Service Charge issues, interview Sop...