Page 1



This magazine is named umland after the street my aunt and ucnle live on. Its a place thats inbetween towns and doesnt have a name on the map, its netheir in the mountains nor ocean and it is somewhere forgotten. Thats why UMLAND the name of their street became the perfect name for this magazine. Its not just surfing not just the ocean its the places that are inebtween the unknown and the lives of the ordainry people of extrodanary places. The only location for them is, UMLAND.



...Is the name of the um-known so show it with our patch. -Umland chronicles


T.O.C. page I


Page II Advertisment page 1

Table of Content

Page 2


Page 8


Page 14 Nor Cal 1/2 Pint 1


While visiting the UK I decided to take an off day and the irish coastline, leaving all the grand architecture and new age bars to see a more undisturbed side of ireland. We Took the train and missing the first exit deciding to go further led us to the town of balbriggan. Getting out of the train you could see the beach only 70 meters away with a little showing a short little beach surrounded by rocks that gave way to cliffs towards the left while to the right was a harbor full of fishing boats that colors could fill a pantone book. The ships were lined up all up against each other, If your ship was tethered to the first ship you would have to walk out through the first to get to yours. Me and my mom were walking along the concrete walkway with the boats lined up and met two fishermen of that area who were more than welcoming and invited us to their friends ship. Walking through a strangers ship to get to his we met him restaining the ship. With permission to board the vessel we walked on his painted deck he did two weeks ago where we met him in the back staining the backside of it. He was proud to show his ship being humble but excited to tell me “this ship has been to the mediterranean, south africa and twice to new york. ” or what I could pick up through the thick irish accent. Showing me the the inside of the ship, both of us barely able to fit in with a small little sign that says head bump duck, he described this that everyone gets confused because head means a part of the ship so it’s followed by bump and then people duck, a small bit of humor that cannot be justified without his irish accent explaining it. He remarks “I’ve shrunken with old age so it works out in the end” followed by a small laugh at his own joke. Walking through the ship seeing nuts and bolts laid out on the table up above to the downstairs with radio parts taken apart on the table. We walked through the narrow hallway that seemed to keep getting more narrow passing the captain’s quarters and the loo, towards storage and where the deck hands would be ending the 5 minute tour with the second storage room. Walking back up this irish gentleman was more than proud of his handsome vessel admitting to me that “I was on this dock at the age of 2 and that was 100 years ago” followed by another laugh at his joke showing how proud these old salts who took more pride in there ships with there town coming in second and country third.

(Shoreline of Balbriggan with the train station in the background)

(Dock in the town of balbriggan with fishing supplies)

(Local fisherman)

(Local fisherman repairing his boat)

(Inside of his ship with supplies littered all over the table)

The northeren california

Abalone Crisis When people think of the California coast they think of the yearround summer surf and hot babes at the beach, but this is a big state and has a large section of forgotten coast. Once you pass the mouth of the bay it’s hard to recognize any names or any of the culture. The surf is dangerous and gnarly with beach breaks littered with rocks, just beyond which divers descend into murky water wearing wetsuits thick enough to make a seal jealous. In these waters thrive a grotesque sea slug with a beautiful shell called abalone, mainly red abalone, the only species that is legally allowed for non-commercial harvesting. but will it? A temporary ban has been put on abalone diving not reducing the amount you can dive for but downright banning all diving for abalone. Now this ban is a huge controversial issue: will it will let the abalone regrow and start a revitalization of the species, or will it become a permanent ban and kill the whole industry?


Abalone doesn’t start with diving but rather fur trading, When fur trading was big in the eighteen hundreds, one of the most popular pelts were those of sea otters, due to the thick fur that protects against the harsh California ocean. Once the sea otters were hunted close to extinction, their prey mass populated, leading to abalone showing a rapid spike in growth. Soon people found these sea slugs and started to farm them, every type of abalone, including red, white, and black.

The research is specific to red abalone shows their numbers. And it’s astonishing to see the decline of abalone in 50 years. Even though abalone was never abundant in northern California,it’s lack of abundance is what gives the area an abundant diving industry. In the recent years the only diving allowed was above the mouth of the Bay Area. However, diver jack lincus said “Areas that I remember being lush with kelp, that I remember having to fight the kelp, now it’s bare rock. It’s just bare rock, with countless

starfish. The starfish feed large numbers but have abalone shells littering on the sea urchins, The now dwindled for dethe floor. ” As important as sea urchins feed of the cades for various reasons. the decline of the abalone For instance, in the last 20 kelp, But the starfish stay is this isnt about that as away from the abalone years the population has much as it is about the leaving them in competidecreased from 18,000 divers. Most divers totion with the sea urchin. milliatons to 10,000 milday would agree that The sea urchin population lions. This huge devastaletting the population exploded once the starfish tion to the population grow and not go extinct started to die eating the is looked to illegal haris a positive, but a fear is kelp forest until the ocean vesting of abalone, on arising that the temporary floor was littered with the blackmarket a single ban will become a permaurchins. This gave no food abalone can go for 100 nent ban; the same thing for the abalone also leavdollars. “4.800 abalone happened to multiple ing them open counties in Calfor predators ifornia. What “Areas that I remember being such sea otters, furthers this is lush with kelp, that I remember cabezones and the causes of having to fight the kelp, now it’s bat rays. The the decline of abalone because bare rock. It’s just bare rock, with recovery for abalone takes a it isn’t purely countless abalone shells littering while, It takes a the divers fault. red abalone 12 To see the dethe floor.” -catton years to grow cline of the red to 7 inches and one inch per diveable day are beabalone you can look to per year after that. Acing poached from Norththe passenger pigeon. cording to bointboint ern California waters” These birds once had magazine “Ongoing surfrom said research dude. huge populations to the veys at 10 popular diving but recently in 2008 a point where they could sites on the Sonoma and disease spread amongst block out the sun, but this Mendocino coasts sugstarfish colorfully name made it an easy target for seastar wasting syndrome. gest density has declined hunters. By reducing the by an average 65 percent How does starfish and population, “We reduced this year compared with abalone connect, It goes the population to a point years past, according to back to freshman year where their own biology Fish and Wildlife data. An biology. On the bottom was unable to succeed, ” as estimated 25 percent of of the food chain is kelp, zink says. The downfall the red abalone found in kelp and then the next of the passenger pigeon the surveyed area were tier are sea urchins, and is similar to that of the starving, and between 22 on the top are the abalone, which used to percent and 67 percent thrive in

of abalone in the water were found dead at the survey sites, said Sonke Mastrup, environmental program manager at the Department of Fish and Wildlife. “ With this information it’s clear that the abalone situation is complicated. There are many things that needs to be done other than banning diving all together. As rising ocean temperatures has contributed to this that problem is to large to simply be solved so what is there to do. Well more research can go into the withering star disease, Scientist still aren’t clear on what this disease is and how it got started. To better understand what it is a is to better prevent it from happening again. By letting the starfish regrow they will be able to eat the sea urchins lowering the population. In turn this will let kelp forest grow back to what it once was giving back the abalones habitat. The other thing to do is look at poaching and how poaching affects the abalone. Poaching is a huge part to the decline of abalone,

poaching has become a problem with many components. Some steps are taken like setting up checkpoints with divers during the season to make sure drivers took no more than the maximum amount to sting operations to arrest poaching rings. What allows poaching though is the ability to scuba dive and the price for abalone. Scuba diving allows hunting abalone to become more of a labor rather than extreme sport allowing divers to be under without having to resurface for 2 hours. With scuba divers being under for so long they then can pick and choose as much as they want and with already breaking the quantity restriction they also can break the size restriction. Divers would only be allowed abalone 7 inches or bigger letting smaller abalone grow into adulthood allowing repopulation but with poaching that isn’t a worry. In sonoma magazine patrick foy, a captain in fish and wildlife said ‘“Though not as numerous as those who are just poaching on a personal

basis, the amount of damage that a single person who is poaching for profit can cause, or just a partnership of two or three, just in a day, can be devastating to a small population of abalone in a small cove somewhere. ”’ Then the price for abalone on the black market is high, the average price for a single abalone is 100 usd. This is a big incentive to poach abalone with the usual suspects being restaurant owners who can get off with charges that are not too serious. “driven in large part by demand from Asian countries and communities, affecting disparate regions” said chief bob farrell in Sonoma Magazine. Even with harsh punishment for abalone poaching it isn’t enough to stop it, mainly due to the lack of resources the fish and game and northern california lifeguards have. The most important way to stop it is coverage on the issue. The only way I know about abalone is from divers through my family which is similar to why others know about it, and without knowledge of

stands which look like they could be staged in a old surf movie but in the north lifeguards are working out of utes with fog lights on. These lifeguards are busy in the diving season going from popular spots to look for divers who may be a potential risk to avoid accidents, help divers who lost track of time and forgetting about the rising tide having there exit cut off and then saving lives with an median of 12 divers a year drowning. Without diving this area will loose vital sources of income and will have the beach side towns suffer as a consequence. In the Abalone Recovery and Management plan “Subsequent re-spending by business sectors that cater to the needs of recreational abalone divers results in an economic multiplier effect which, when added to the direct expenditures, yields $17,187,633 (2000 base year) in final output demand for the local economies from recreational abalone fishing. ” Especially in towns which depend on abalone as a source of income, that’s a huge loss.

Abalone diving is a major part of this land with many complicated components but rather than attacking the divers the state should attack the other problems.

Abalone diving is a major part of this land with many complicated components but rather than attacking the divers the state should attack the other problems.

abalone the issue isn’t understood; by informing people about abalone and getting community involvement to report issues is the best way that the people in charge of sting operations can stop poaching rings. Better said is Chief Ferrell’s words “Without community involvement, ” Farrell said, “without people caring about this, then we’re never going to get to the other side of ”it.Now we know what’s wrong and with the information now it would be reasonable for someone to conclude lets ban abalone diving and keep the beaches secure but there’s more to that. Abalone diving is a huge economical drive for these small beachside towns. These small towns don’t get to much traffic other than abalone divers and rich sanfransicoians who want to get away for a weekend, so when theseason hits it drives lodging, food and services in these town are vital. Another job not so obvious is the lifeguards in northern california. Southern california has the wide open beaches with the blue lifeguard

(An abalone shell)

(An illustration of an abalone)

Nor Cal 1/2Pint


It was an early morning waking up in tandem with the rising of the sun, sitting around the wood burning stove used to hear the house and the one couch and one chair in the living room. We gathered to discuss where to go with stephanie the local going onto websites to look at the swells to decide where to go. Previous in that week I met in pacifica to go record her surf, she pulled up in a handed down RV with a puppy she picked up along the way. She was taking a trip down south to go surfing with friends who lived in the la, prior to that trip she went up with friends to orgen to surf as well. It’s hard to keep track of where she’s gone and when I can come up to film because shes away on some sort of adventure than she is staying at home, which is a quality all of us envy to some extent. Once she finally felt that the swell would be good enough we headed over while I followed behind her too top heavy rv. We reached a small 50 feet X 50 feet parking lot.

(Stephanies Rv that she uses to explore the coast line)

she was getting ready to head out she was naming off names of cars that were parked there telling me who and what board their out with right now. Later a few more cars pulled in and she started talking to them about the surf and what they were thinking, discussing the rocker of her new shortboard and just how they have been since seeing them last. We walked out with one of Stephanie’s surfing buddies. and hiking through a short trail

to reach the cliffside that overlooked the shorling with the thick fog resting over the ocean. We walk down a wooden stairwell with the paint chipped spiraling down a metal pole. Walking out as they did there stretches, pulled there hoods over their head and paddled out into the storm going around the rock jetting out of the water and over the ones that lied under the surface. They met up with two other guys who were surfing out there,

and of course being such an isolated area you knew every surfer there was. hey surfed before the tide became worse catching the small choppy waves. If the reader thought that this would be some surfers paradise with perfect shape and no other surfers, the only part they would get right is the no other surfers. he shape wasn’t distinguishable at all and the wave barley breaked but the four of them were out there catching waves. Stephanie was suring the let side of the wave pumping her board to get down the line because there wasn’t enough power. he session only lasted an hour ater sunrise as all of them had to head to work. Coming up the rickety stairwell they all discussed the surf and as they all wished it could of been better none of them regretted taking the morning to go out and it was just an average day past the mouth of the bay.

(Stephanies surfing along the sonoma coast)

(Surfer at blacks)

(surfer paddaling out at blacks)

(Stephanies walking out towards the break)

(Surfer looking out towards the ocean)

(Stephanies and a fellow surfer stretching)

(Stephanies bailing)

(Dangerous surf sign at local surf spot)

special thanks to Freestyle Academy Mr. T Ms. P Mr. Grecco Mr. Flo Linda and Stephanie The ishermen of Ierland