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“Such notions are not part of our vocabulary� - Margiela (22/4/2010: A Conversation with Margiela)

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fig 01.

The Now, The Then & The Other Contents: - 4/5 Introduction to Margiela - 6/7 Brand Moodboard - 8/9 Brand Analysis - 16/17 Instore & VM - 18/19 Perception Map & Model - 20/21 The Consumer - 22/33 New Concept - 34/35 Bibliography & Refrences

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(Intro) Only the Brave owned brand has taken catwalks by storm, with its futuristic masks, deconstructed shapes and sophisticated attitude. Collections from the brand follow the same style personality, with tailoring to fit on on end of the spectrum, and distorted at the other. Margiela explains “Our main inspiration has always has been the extremities and changes of daily life “ – Margiela (22/4/10). Big colours for the brand, is white (meaning purity), blacks and earthtones. For a brand that is ‘invisible’ in terms of marketing, Margiela has inspired and has grown a respectable reputation in the fashion industry these past 3 decades. Founded in 1989 with partner Jenny Meriens, Margiela had the opportunity to mix art, literature and fashion into one, using his experimentation and creativity. In process of coming to have his own label he has worked with many big names, and influential designers in the past, such as Jean-Paul Gaultier (who he is heavily influenced by for Margiela x Jannis Kounellis) & the Antwerp 6 group who include, Dirk Bikkembergs , Marina Yee, and others, who all graduated from the Antwerps Royal Acadamey of Fine Arts, with Margiela.

“Fashion is a craft, a technical know-how and not an art” - Margiela (22/4/2010)

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fig 02.

Maison Martin Margiela Collections: AW 11, AW 12, SS 10

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fig 03.

Maison Martin Margiela X H&M / November 2012. Visual Contrasts include type v organic image, light v dark, fonts styles & cold v warm.

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(marketing)

Margiela is known for using the ‘invisible marketing’ path when connecting and attracting consumers, like they’re brother brand Viktor & Rolf. This is so they can attract the right audience who want to wear the brand through their own choices and style. With that, they have released fragrance campaign, and in November 2012, they’re H&M collaboration campaign, so they are able to communicate and promote to a whole new market base.

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(_Collaborations) Although the brands invisible, collaborations, achievements and new collections have been a huge talk about in the past, getting plenty of recognition and press. Many of the most well known collaborations, mixing markets and style is Masion Martin Margiela for H&M, G-Shock & the White Converse, where they bring their own house creativity and signature style to a larger market, also fitting in with the other brands personality. However collaborations with big names don’t stop there such as Micheal Stipe and a recent collaboration was with Kanye West for ‘Yeezus’ tour. Margiela designed and around the concept to create a selection of outfits for each show.

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fig 04.

the Margiela x Converse shoes is first white on purchase, however the longer is worn, a under colour appears.

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fig 05.

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When it comes to garments on the market and differentiating themselves, the brand will always be recognized with the Margiela calendar logo inside and also sometimes just 4 little white stitches showing on the outer lining. The brands style is known to sometimes look ‘unfinished’ or even ‘cheaply made’, which doesn’t make the 4 stitch representation not look out of place. Furthermore when it comes to online shopping, there’s no sleek style, or sophisticated look about the website. All in the theme of a ‘Windows 98’ Computer, the site holds a messy layout and clear navigation. Products and clothing are not on sale on the official site, but it allows links to news feed, e-boutique, twitter, tumblr and facebook, a wide range of social network platforms.

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Like many brands, Margiela has its iconic pieces, which when seen the viewer will automatically know where it belongs. This can be used as a type of promotion for the brand, using a signature style and item to make a imprint on the catwalk. Margielas key iconic items are the holeless ski masks, which have been seen on almost every models face for the past few years on the catwalk. The iconic piece has come in many styles, and textures matching the trend and collection. Apart from just the catwalk it has been seen on the brands ambassadors such as Kanye West, who wore a black diamond style for his recent Yeezus tour. In addition, the paint splat trainers, priced from ÂŁ315, have also been recognized for Margiela giving them the signature paint splat essence to the brand.

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fig 06.

fig 07.

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(_Instore & VM_) The visuals in store support the style the Margiela’s design, It’s not just about being in the style of Margiela but experiencing it around you. This clearly shows through the visual merchandising, with its minimal surroundings, white sheets covering most objects such as chairs and what I think looks like a ‘artists workshop’. When shopping instore, customers are given a white canvas sack to take home they’re purchases, going against the glossy plastic bag. Each of the sales assistants we’re seen in what is likes long white lab coats, meaning a reference to ‘atelier/studio’s and showing the meaning of unity, with Margiela stating “An Expression of team” – Margiela (22/4/2010).

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fig 08.

Margiela Store - Beijing

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The brand overall is about mockery and an inside joke to fashion. Such as with the garments and the marketing, each collection has similar names with the word ‘Line’ and a number. This has gone on since the house was founded, making each seem collection seem like a clone from another, to another. Having Renzo Rosso (CEO of OTB) being top shareholder of 90%, and having an income of £10.3bn for their total revenue to date, clearly shows huge popularity and success. The position of the brand such as price in the market lies in the luxury fashion sector with Products ranging up to prices of £400-£1,500, with many competitors at similar prices and some consumers such which are shown on the perceptional map.

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(_The Consumer)

Talking in terms of consumers, Margiela have a specific consumer base, known for its sophisticated attitude and creativity within and showing with the consumer. Aimed at men and woman, ages 25-35, the brand has a mature statement about it, due its sleek look, with always a back-up story to why the consumer has made those choices. Products are about self-expression, such as Margiela uses in his designs as he’s heavily influenced by art & literature. The ideal consumer would have a creative job, either in art, writing, fashion and interior, and have a true passion. They like to be well presented, and like to show their true personality and interests through their appearance. Consumer competitor wise the brand isn’t the only one to have art and experimentation as a huge influence. The Ideal consumer would be known to also shop at brands such as Givenchy, Rick Owens and Gareth Pugh.

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fig 09.

25-35 years of age, artistic career, ambitious, wants to stand out, isn’t afraid to experiment, high income, workaholic, sophisticated.


(New Concept)

In the industry its obvious what style Margiela wants to perceive, and with it’s countless wacky, wonderful collections, and unpredictable ideas nothing is out of reach. The brand has took the opportunities to expand, such as in furniture, shoes, collaborations and unisex perfume, however when it comes to cosmetics it hasn’t been touched. Many competitors and brands in the similar market have released further make-up lines, which are adored by loyal and lower market consumers, expanding its audience and expanding its platforms and opportunities. This involves brands like Marc Jacobs, Alexander McQueen (MAC for McQueen Catwalk Collaboration) & Givenchy, who have extended and collaborated to release make-up lines. On the catwalk Margiela always has extraordinary makeup & hair styles to support and add life to the collections and garments. The consumer for the brand is dramatic with they’re clothing, which make-up wise they are willing to experiment. I feel the brand has a real opportunity to make the consumer feel involved, by not just looking like the catwalk neck down but also the neck up, for men and woman. With brands like Marc Jacobs & Givenchy also known to have dramatic makeup on the catwalk, and also releasing lines, there is a real opptunrity to fill a platform for the brand to extend their market base. MAC makeup is one of the world’s leading respectable make-up brands, creating collaborations with designers, brands and artists, such as Rihanna, McQueen & Pedro Lorenco and used at events such as London Fashion Week & Margiela Spring/Summer 2014, due to its quality, which can give an average consumer ‘straight off the catwalk’ look. Cosmetics can be priced from £10-£60, making it affordable to high end and high street market.

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fig 10.

Maison Martin Margiela SS 2014


In 1980’s, during the same time Margiela was founded, ‘changing colour lipstick’ was brought to the market however has only just increased popularity recently in 2013 with brands like DuWop, Dior and Barry M hitting the market during these past years with the revolutionary lip colour. ‘Colour changing lipstick’ comes in variations of colours that change colour to match your lip shade, and ones which go from colours like Blue/Green to pink. Changing colour lipstick I feel it’s a mockery itself, due to the fact you are putting on the opposite colour you desire, it’s a play on art and science due to the colour changing feature is down to body heat around the lip area. This shows the house is sticking to the path that they like to follow of being surreal, such as high end designs printed on the white cotton fabric. The twist of the product is that, even though woman would be expected to wear this, men are able to wear it to, making the lipstick versatile and available to both audiences to the brand, letting both genders able to experiment and stand out in the crowd, and to keep the brands unpredictable essence. The ‘changing colour’ concept will involve the same as Diors, changes to match your natural lip tone using body heat, making lip shades easy to match a busy Margiela consumer outfit, In addition, the lipstick doesn’t stop there, as its able to be used as a eye shadow crayon, letting the consumer create the ‘block eye lid’ look off the Margiela runway, however the changing colour affect won’t work on eyes. Margiela are able to take this popularity rise, and will be able to fill a gap in their market audience, taking the same path as Marc Jacobs & Lorenco. With that the loyal consumer can bring the beauty looks of the catwalk to their morning routine, making them feel fully involved with the brands identity and personality. In the future more shades will be brought out to follow, matte and gloss lipsticks, which don’t change colour but can still be used around the eyes. To start the line, two lip sticks will be released, one darker than the other suiting light and dark skin tones, and to give an insight on what the Margiela consumer can create, following the brands personality. If successful the other lipstick lines will be released with a collection of blacks, whites, nudes and earth tones. Furthermore to differentiate themselves from designers like Pedro Lourenco who have also collaborated with MAC. Changing colour lipstick will represent the brands essence and unpredictable idea for the garments on the catwalk, mocking the average lipstick.

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fig 11.

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High End brands & own compeititve make-up lines

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fig 12.

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(_) The packaging will be printed, in a way Margiela packaged they’re perfumes when released. It’ll be simple, white and minimal with sphere lipstick lid. The first lipsticks (changing colour) will be released named 1 and 2, with normal lipsticks being released in the future up to 23, relating to the logo. This will be laid out to look like the Margiela 1-23 image. Priced at £17.50 / $14, same price as the average lipstick from MAC will give the Margiela & MAC consumer a chance to get a hold of product affordably. This lipstick will be sold in store of MAC and instore in Margiela (flagship & department), near till points in, making the consumer feel they can complete their purchase by adding the finishing touches.

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Margiela (Untitled) Unisex fragrance campaign

fig 13.

“Margiela is still a cool brand and a group of people are working behind [the scenes] without a face. It was not a commercial fragrance, it was a very sophisticated fragrance. The home concept is also very sophisticated. For me, Margiela is the brand within OTB that is the most credible and powerful in lifestyle”. Renzo Rosso – bof 4/4/2013

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The product will be named (mar-jehl-ah), keeping it like the perfume a minimal perfume campaign will be released which will be promoted in department and instore to reach out to other audiences not just the loyal consumers, however campaigns in magazine won’t be released, keeping the brand near invisible. Like they’re usual invisible marketing, the product will mainly promote themselves through the consumer’s choices. It will be showcased in store with small graphic of the ad campaign, differentiating it to other brands such as in department stores. The lipstick will be individually laid out making it more exclusive experience to the customer when on purchase. I feel this new concept idea will allow the brand to experiment and explore other areas expanding their audience and the brand. Aiming it at men and woman, will still keep the brands personality of being unpredictable, and also keeping up with how fashion is changing, and becoming more and more creative, especially street style. fig 14.

Margiela (mar-jelh-ah) campaign mock-up

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bibliography: Brand Analysis - BOOK Essentials Of Visual Communication / Bo Bergstrom Laurence King. - BOOK Fashion Marketing / Harriet Posner - Laurence King - http://www.thirdlooks.com/2012/11/maison-martin-margielareference-guide/ / published: November 14th 2012 - http://nikeinc.com/news/converse-and-maison-martin-margielajoin-forces-for-first-time-collaboration / September 2013 - http://bullettmedia.com/article/martin-margielas-insidejoke/ / November 14th 2012 - http://dieworkwear.com/post/3135597682/interview-maisonmartin-margiela / January 2012 - http://fashionbi.com/brands/maison-martin-margiela / 2012 by OTB SpA - http://www.stylus.com/xwtgvd / 4 July 2013 - http://www.businessoffashion.com/2009/10/maison-martinmargiela-part-one-%E2%80%93-the-cult-of-invisibility.html 28 October 2009 http://www.interviewmagazine.com/fashion/maison-martinmargiela/#_ / - http://www.g-shock.eu/es/gshocklife/collaborations/maison_ martin_margiela_paris/ (NO DATE) - http://hypetrak.com/2013/11/a-conversation-with-maisonmartin-margiela-on-kanye-wests-custom-yeezus-outfits/ / November 5th 2013 Images: - Fig 01: http://www.highsnobiety.com/2012/10/24/highsnobietyphoto-editorial-maison-martin-margiela-with-hm-accessorieslookbook/ October 24 2012 - Fig 02: http://www.pinterest.com/charlotteepratt/masionmartin-margiela/ & google images / edited on photoshop - Fig 03: http://trendland.com/maison-martin-margiela-for-hmcampaign/ / 16th Oct 2012 - Fig 04: http://www.pinterest.com/pin/400890804301261856/ - Fig 05: http://www.pinterest.com/ - Fig 06: http://www.luxuriousprototype.com/fashion/maisonmartin-margiela-kanye-west-yeezus-tour/ / 23rd October 2013 - fig 07: http://www.eukicks.com/maison-martin-margiela-lowpaint-splatter/ / May 16th 2013 - fig 08: http://retaildesignblog.net/2011/11/09/maison-martinmargiela-store-beijing/ - fig 09: www.pinterest.com/ google images & photoshop edit 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35


New Concept - BOOK Fashion Marketing / Harriet Posner - Laurence King - http://www.saksfifthavenue.com/main/ProductDetail. jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524446411920 (NO DATE) - http://www.trendhunter.com/slideshow/maison-martin-margielaconcepts / July 17 2008, written by Norah Abu Eitah - http://www.temptalia.com/mac-cosmetics-alexander-mcqueencollection-inspiration / 7th October 2007 - http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/style/articles/2013-11/11/ maison-martin-margiela-replica-jazz-club-review / 11th Novemeber 2013 Images: - Fig 10: http://www.pinterest.com/pin/115334440431427517/ - Fig 11: www.pinterest.com & photoshop edit - Fig 12: Photoshop made / mockup - Fig 13: http://www.loreal.com/brands/loreal-luxe/maisonmartin-margiela.aspx / - Fig 14: Photoshop Mock up. Photos taken from http://www. models1.co.uk/ Refrences (Brand An. & New Concept: - “Such notions are not part of our vocabulary” Margiela (22/4/10) A Conversationg With Maison Martin Margiela and Filep Motwary / http://www.filepmotwary.com/motwary/2010/06/ interview-maison-martin-margiela-in-a-conversation-with-filepmotwary.html - “Our main inspiration has always has been the extremities and changes of daily life “ – Margiela (22/4/10) A Conversationg With Maison Martin Margiela and Filep Motwary - “Fashion is a craft, a technical know-how and not an art” Margiela (22/4/10) A Conversationg With Maison Martin Margiela and Filep Motwary - “An Expression of team” - Margiela (22/4/10) A Conversationg With Maison Martin Margiela and Filep Motwary - “Margiela is still a cool brand and a group of people are working behind [the scenes] without a face. It was not a commercial fragrance, it was a very sophisticated fragrance. The home concept is also very sophisticated. For me, Margiela is the brand within OTB that is the most credible and powerful in lifestyle” BOF interview with Renzo Rosso (4//4/2013) http://www.businessoffashion.com/2013/04/ceo-talk-renzo-rossochairman-only-the-brave.html **all moodboard images from pinterest & google images** 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35


Maison Martin Margiela: The Then, the Now & The Other  

Brand Zine

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