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STITCH STORY NO 682:

You sew, girl! Jane has couture tastes on a boxed wine budget. But instead of buying dresses and suits from the expensive labels, she whips up designer-inspired garments using her Skyline S5—a powerful but affordable machine that’s perfect for a girl with a lot of style, but not a lot of dough. Learn more about the new Skyline S5 and the full Janome line. Janome.com/Dealers

WHAT’S NEXT

Skyline S5

a s tor y in ever y s titch h

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SHOP EXCLUSIVE KITS SHOP DIGITAL BUNDLES OF WEB SEMINARS, DIGITAL VIDEOS, AND POPULAR BURDASTYLE PATTERNS FOR HUGE SAVINGS.

SEW INSPIRED New and trendy designs to sew, member projects, and pattern mashups. You’ll find the best sewing inspiration at BurdaStyle.com.

SWEEPSTAKES AND CONTESTS You won’t want to miss our great sewing contests and sweepstake giveaways! SPRING 2015

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®

… SPRING 2015

fashion 25

PERFECT FIT

Gorgeous shoes to wear down the aisle 26

THE SWEET LIFE

Feminine silhouettes in pretty pastel hues *COVER STORY 32

BLUE AND WHITE

Picturesque pieces in cool shades of blue *COVER STORY 40

URBAN JUNGLE

Sharp, sophisticated styles in sultry prints *COVER STORY 48

BIG DAY

Enchanting gowns for a fairytale wedding 54

WHITE HOT

Modern, edgy designs stand out in classic white

INDIGO Feel anything but blue in casually charming styles. Page 32 *COVER STORY

diy trends & styling 14

CROCHET

The traditional technique with a high-fashion twist 16

TRIANGLES

It’s all about the angles with geometric prints and appliqués

WHITE WEDDINGS An assortment of elegant dresses for beautiful brides-to-be. Page 48 *COVER STORY

18

ROSE PETAL

A metal rose necklace adds floral flair for spring 20

COLORFUL CONTRAST

On-trend slashed sleeves lined with bold colors and prints 22

SPRING FLING

Colorful makeup and must-try hair products 38

CASUAL COUTURE

Dress up casual workout pants with clever styling tips *COVER STORY 46

STYLE AND THE CITY

Fierce and fashionable accessories that stand out in a crowd DAZZLING Bring the glamour in decadent, shimmering accessories. Page 52

COSMOPOLITAN Stylish staples with an eye-catching edge. Page 40 *COVER STORY

52

BRIDAL BEAUTY

Elegant accents that sparkle for special occasions

Looking for styles that match your skill level? Keep an eye out for our “Easy” and “Advanced” symbols. 2

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SPRING 2015

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y m m o r f k il s f 4 yds o t r ip t o In d ia rn e t t a p s 1 dres

s y a d r e t n i w d i m k a e 3 bl al t o t h t i w e 1 machin l o r t n o c h c stit c h o c o la t e

ma’s d n a r g f o s e c 7 s li

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e m y b e d a m s s e r d 1 compliments ss e l t n u o c d n a

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inside

… SPRING 2015

TRENDSETTER Alluring accessories with fashionable flair. Page 46

MINT CONDITION Illustrated sewing instructions for a sophisticated off-the-shoulder top. Page 107

PRETTY IN PASTEL Feminine styles in soft spring shades. Page 26 *COVER STORY

in every issue 1

BURDASTYLE.COM

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EDITOR’S NOTE

106 106 111

NEW & NOW

FABRIC MANIPULATION

112

INSPIRATION

Refashion your favorite T-shirts into something new.

FABRIC MASTER

Expert tips for tackling those hard-tosew fabrics 107

TOP 10

BurdaStyle sewers share their best fabric care tips *COVER STORY

Advanced techniques for detailing textiles 104

PREVIEW

Coming up in our next issue

What’s hot in the latest sewing products and accessories 102

GIVEAWAY

Enter to win this issue’s prize worth $500

sewing 10

LIGHT YEARS Contemporary designs sewn in clean, classic white. Page 54

SEW THIS — BOATNECK TOP

GET MORE ONLINE

Step-by-step instructions for sewing this feminine off-the-shoulder style

PROJECTS REMIXED: Inspiring ideas for altering your favorite BurdaStyle patterns FEATURE WEBINAR: Make Your Own Bikini BURDA TV: Tips for sewing stretch fabrics SO PRETTY Spring makeup and hair repair. Page 22

PROJECT GALLERIES: Check out member projects DON’T MISS our newest contests and promotions!

visit burdastyle.com Looking for styles that match your skill level? Keep an eye out for our “Easy” and “Advanced” symbols. 4

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SPRING 2015

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editor’s note

… SPRING 2015

ONE OF MY FAVORITE THINGS

about spring is shedding the clothing layers of the colder months. But wearing fewer clothes certainly doesn’t mean you need to compromise your style. Fortunately, the pages of this issue are filled with spring’s best fashions that you can make today from classic cuts (p. 26) and casual separates for all sizes (p. 32) to wedding gowns (p. 48) and modern whites (p. 54). And of course, fabric plays a key role in your custom, made-by-you wardrobe. The foundation of a good garment, fabric is more than just a print or a texture. Fabric is the drape, the shape, and the structure (or lack thereof) of an outfit, and buying it is one of the guilty pleasures of many sewers (fabric stash, anyone?). This is our second annual fabric issue, and it’s jampacked with great stuff for all skill levels! You’ll find fabric care tips from our readers (p. 111), a guide to working with specialty fabrics (p. 104), and some detailed fabric manipulation techniques (p. 102). I’m excited to be a part of your journey through building your fashionable wardrobe. Let me know what you sew, and be sure to keep in touch online! Happy spring! And happy sewing!

Denise Wild Editorial Director, BurdaStyle US

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Catch me on series 900 of Sew it All TV making a BurdaStyle garment

Here I am with Ellen March, Editorial Director of Sew News

Rows of ribbon from the garment district of Sham Shui Po in Hong Kong where Technical Editor, Linda Griepentrog, hosted a fabric tour. Check out The American Sewing Guild for her next tour in 2016!

Online Editor, Meg Healy (right), and Assistant Editor, Alana Walsh (left), strike a pose with Canadian TV host Marilyn Denis

SPRING 2015

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Vintage Embroidery Designs W I T H A M O D E R N T W I ST Artfully Embroidered reinvents vintage embroidery through a modern aesthetic. Traditional Japanese and western motifs are made new with color and embellishment, and 25 embroidered patterns demonstrate the beauty of the traditional designs while keeping the projects fresh and modern-looking for today’s sewists. Artfully Embroidered | 120 pages | $24.99 | Paperback | SRN: 14SW04

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®

SPRING 2015 EDITORI A L DIRECTOR, US EDITION Denise Wild ASSISTA NT EDITOR Alana Walsh TECHNICA L EDITOR Linda Turner Griepentrog EDITORI A L CONTRIBUTORS Hina Ansari, Christine Carson, Amanda Kaufmann A RT DIRECTOR Amy Petriello PRODUCTION DESIGNER Janice Tapia CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTR ATORS Sheila Lam, Missy Shepler DIRECTOR OF ONLINE PRODUCT DEV ELOPMENT Winter Thielen BURDAST Y LE.COM EDITOR Meg Healy ADVERTISING M ANAGERS Mary-Evelyn Dalton, maryeveholder@comcast.net, 615-297-3639; Wendy Thompson, wendy.thompson@fwcommunity.com, 910-791-3832 DIGITAL SALES M ANAGER Laura Abel, laura.abel@fwcommunity.com, 303-215-5610 A D TR A FFICK ER Lisa Richter

Wondering which needle to use? Check out the SCHMETZ App — it’s free!

VICE PRESIDENT, MEDI A SA LES Michelle Crockett CORPOR ATE DIRECTOR, DESIGN A ND PRODUCTION  Gregory Krueger DESIGN M A NAGER Larissa Davis SENIOR PRODUCTION M A NAGER Nancy Pollock BOOKS EDITORI A L DIRECTOR Vanessa Lyman ECOMMERCE M A RK ETING DIRECTOR Evelyn Bridge DIRECTOR, M AGA ZINE M A RK ETING & FULFILLMENT Mark Fleetwood ONLINE CIRCUL ATION SPECI A LIST Jodi Smith

F+W, A Content + eCommerce Company

Android App available soon.

Kick-Start Your Sewing With

Free GUIDES academy. burdastyle.com

CH AIRM A N & CEO David Nussbaum CHIEF OPER ATING OFFICER & CFO James Ogle PRESIDENT Sara Domville CHIEF DIGITA L OFFICER Chad Phelps VICE PRESIDENT, E-COMMERCE Lucas Hilbert SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, OPER ATIONS Phil Graham VICE PRESIDENT, COMMUNIC ATIONS Stacie Berger

© 2015 Verlag Aenne Burda GmbH & Co. KG BurdaStyle® is published under licenses of HUBERT BURDA MEDIA HOLDING KG and VERLAG AENNE BURDA GmbH & Co. KG, Hubert-Burda-Platz 2, 77652 Offenburg, Germany

FOUNDER Aenne Burda PUBLISHER Prof. Dr. Hubert Burda EDITOR-IN-CHIEF A ND CHIEF DESIGNER Dagmar Bily DIRECTOR BUSINESS DEV ELOPMENT Olaf Holzhäuser DIRECTOR LICENSING A ND A DV ERTISING Frances Evans E-M AIL: licensing@burda.com

BurdaStyle is published in Austria, Brazil, Canada, Czech Republic, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Italy, Netherlands, Poland, Portugal, Russia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey, Ukraine, United Kingdom, United States of America. Copyright Notice: All material published in BurdaStyle is copyrighted by Verlag Aenne Burda or its licensees. Such material is protected by U.S. and international copyright laws and treaties. All rights reserved. In particular all models and sewing patterns are copyrighted and their commercial use is prohibited. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or distributed without written consent of F+W. Requests for permissions should be directed to: 4868 Innovation Dr., Ft. Collins, CO 80525-5576. (970) 669-7672. The US edition of BurdaStyle (ISSN 2331-7671) is published four times per year by Interweave, a division of F+W Media Inc. Projects and information are for inspiration and personal use only. Reproduction in whole or in part, including photocopy, is prohibited without the expressed written permission of the publisher. BurdaStyle does not recommend, approve or endorse any of the advertisers’ products, services, or views advertised in BurdaStyle. Nor does BurdaStyle evaluate the advertisers’ claim in any way. You should, therefore, use your own judgment in evaluating the advertisers’ products, services and views advertised in BurdaStyle. Subscription rate is $59.99/one year in the U.S., $68.99/one year in Canada, and $79.99/ one year in international countries (surface delivery). U.S. funds only. Subscription services: (800) 219-2067 (toll free US & Canada) or (386) 246-0105 (international customers), or email burdastyle@emailcustomerservice.com, or write to BurdaStyle, PO Box 433289, Palm Coast, FL 32143. Printed in the U.S.A. Retailers: If you are interested in carrying this magazine in your store, please call (866) 949-1646 or email sales@interweave.com. VISIT US ON THE WEB: burdastyle.com • interweave.com • fwcommunity.com

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Mollie Makes pillows Mollie Makes machine embroidery Mollie Makes table runners Mollie Makes ribbon embroidery Mollie Makes ornaments Mollie Makes bargello

Mollie Makes Embroidery Mollie Makes bags Mollie Makes gifts Mollie Makes cross-stitch Mollie Makes wall dĂŠcor Mollie Makes jewelry Mollie Makes doodle stitching Mollie Makes crewel work

Discover more than 15 contemporary embroidery projects from an international range of experts who will demonstrate the different ways in which the techniques and stitches can be used. Mollie Makes Embroidery | 160 pages | $19.99 | Paperback | SRN: 14QM05

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Perfectly Stitched Tools and reads that will elevate your craft

SEEING DOUBLE

MATERIALISTIC Finding the right fabric is key when it comes to creating a gorgeous garment. Conquer the fashion world with extensive knowledge on all things fabric, textiles, and design. Fabrics In Fashion Design, $45.

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HOW TO SPEAK FLUENT SEWING FOREIGN LANGUAGE

BEST FOOT FORWARD Part sketchbook part reference manual, this hardcover book is a must for the aspiring footwear designer. Shoe Design book from Fashionary, $49. 10

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Avoid feeling overwhelmed anytime you encounter unfamiliar sewing terminology with a handy guide to even the most complicated of sewing speak. How To Speak Fluent Sewing, $25. The Indispensable Illustrated Guide to Sewing and Fabric Terminology

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FINE LINE

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SMOOTH AS SILK Lustrous, silky satins in over 108 vibrant solids and five print collections to choose from provide endless creative sewing combinations. Shannon Fabrics, $6-$7/yard.

SKY’S THE LIMIT Modern sewers will be on cloud nine with features such as the one-handed needle threader, speed control slider, 6 built-in LED lights, and 170 built-in stitches including 10 one-step buttonholes and four alphabets. Janome Skyline S5, $1,499.

MAGNETIC Never worry about misplaced pins again! A stylish magnetic pincushion holds pins in place while a wristband ensures that pins are always within reach as you sew. Unique Quilting Wrist Magnetic Pin Caddy, $8.

SKETCH ARTIST

Bring your design ideas to life using mixed-media techniques for fashion illustrations that jump off the page. Watch and learn to draw facial features, hair styles, clothes, accessories, and more. Fun, Fabulous Fashion Illustration: Draw and Paint Figures DVD, $27. 12

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BACK TO BASICS Stock your closet with simple yet stylish staples that are a must-have in any woman’s wardrobe. Simply Sewn, $25.

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runway diy

HERVÉ LÉGER

make it!

ADD A STUNNING STAR EMBELLISHMENT

FULL CIRCLE Upgrade a narrow belt by crocheting along both sides

FLORAL AFFAIR Embroidered flowers add an enchanting accent

Chain stitch

STAR STRUCK This pretty appliqué pattern can be made once you know some basic crochet stitches. Double crochet

CROCHET CHIC

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Half treble

Slip stitch

TORY BURCH

This traditional technique is taking over the runways, adding intrigue to basic dresses and tops with allover embellishment, eye-catching inserts, and alluring appliqués

Double treble Treble

PHOTOS: JAN SCHMIEDEL (STEP IMAGES); FIRSTVIEW.COM (RUNWAY IMAGES). ILLUSTRATIONS: KARIN DULDNER; CROCHET INSTRUCTIONS: DIANE SCHROLL. PRODUCTION: THERESA BACHLER.

BLUE STREAK A gorgeous blue appliqué transforms a simple white tank

SPRING 2015

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runway diy

VICTORIA BECKHAM

make it!

EMBELLISH AN OUTFIT WITH HAND-EMBROIDERED TRIANGLES

SHAPING UP Jazz up a gym-ready backpack by creating an all-over triangular pattern with pre-strung sequins

ON THE EDGE A simple mini-skirt is spiced up by triangles embroidered onto the hem

MATERIALS Fabric, embroidery thread, metallic embroidery thread, fusible interfacing, embroidery hoop, hand embroidery needle, scissors, hand-drafted triangle template, chalk.

STEP 1 Fuse interfacing onto the wrong side of fabric. Use template to mark pattern on fabric. Begin in the left corner and insert needle at the upper point of the triangle.

It’s all about the angles with high-fashion geometry! Whether you have triangular accents or an allover print, triangles are shaping up to be one of spring’s top trends

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CUSTO BARCELONA

A CUTE TRIANGLE STEP 2 Bring the needle back through to the left of the upper point, close to the marked line. Insert the needle into lower right-hand corner and bring it back up at the lower left corner.

STEP 3 Insert needle at top, 1 ⁄16” (2 mm) below the first thread and next to the right marked line. Bring the needle back up again close to the left marked line, and continue until triangle is complete.

PHOTOS: JAN SCHMIEDEL (STEP IMAGES); FIRSTVIEW.COM (RUNWAY IMAGES). PRODUCTION: DIANE SCHROLL.

CONNECT THE DOTS Individual beads are sewn on to create a triangular neckline accent

SPRING 2015

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runway diy

MOSCHINO

make it!

CREATE AN EYECATCHING ABSTRACT ROSE NECKLACE PETAL PINK Floral appliquĂŠs in different fabrics decorate this circle skirt

MATERIALS Flat, pliable aluminum wire; hand-drawn flower template, needle-nose pliers, wire cutters, snake chain, two small jump rings, sandpaper.

WILD ROSES Twisted metal wire creates an eye-catching necklace

STEP 1 Using the sandpaper, file one end of the wire smooth and place it on the template. Starting at the center of the flower, bend the wire with the needle-nose pliers, following the design.

Decorative flowers add a touch of romance for spring

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DOLCE & GABBANA

FLORAL FLAIR STEP 2 Once you have finished the rose, trim off the excess wire with the wire cutter. File the end of the wire smooth with the sandpaper.

STEP 3 Use the needle-nose pliers to attach the chain to the outermost ring of the rose, using the two small jump rings.

PHOTOS: JAN SCHMIEDEL (STEP IMAGES); FIRSTVIEW.COM (RUNWAY IMAGES). PRODUCTION: DIANE SCHROLL.

IN BLOOM Flowers of entwined wire and leather adorn a headband

SPRING 2015

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runway diy

L’WREN SCOTT

make it!

SPICE UP A LONG-SLEEVE TEE WITH AN ON-TREND SLIT FASHIONABLE FLARE Long slits give this top a stylishly retro feel

MATERIALS Long-sleeve top, lining fabric, fusible interfacing, removable marker, pattern paper, fusible webbing, pen, thread, scissors, ruler, measuring tape, pins.

STEP 1 Put on shirt and mark elbow level. Fold sheet of paper. Lay sleeve on the paper along the folded edge, with the upper edge of the paper at the elbow marking. Trace out the sleeve and cut.

STEP 2 Use paper pattern piece to cut out two pieces each of lining and fusible interfacing. Turn shirt inside out and fuse interfacing to sleeves.

STEP 3 Cut up the center front of the sleeves, stopping ¾” (2 cm) below the elbow marking. With right sides together, stitch the contrasting fabric to the sleeve edges, and use fusible webbing to hold the top of the lining in place. Turn and press.

SLASHED SLEEVES CHANEL

Dramatic slits along the arms of jackets and long-sleeve tops are chic and unexpected

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PHOTOS: JAN SCHMIEDEL (STEP IMAGES); FIRSTVIEW.COM (RUNWAY IMAGES). PRODUCTION: DIANE SCHROLL.

WINGED COOL Glam brooches CONTRAST make pink this jumper Salmon lining elegant adds adress splash of color to thisenough classic for style evening wear

SPRING 2015

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beauty

In Full Bloom

Playful pastels and bold brights give your face a fresh softness for spring

1.

2.

4.

3.

2. OVER THE RAINBOW Add soft, muted hues to your daytime look for a sophisticated update. Clarins Limited Edition Garden Escape 6-Color Eye Palette, $44. 3. FOREVER FUCHSIA Spokesmodel Miley’s bold attitude complements this sparkling statement hue. M.A.C Viva Glam Miley Cyrus Lipglass, $18. 4. MINT JULEP Bring on the heat with a pastel green pedicure fit for the season. That’s Hula-rious from the Hawaii Collection by OPI, $12. 22

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BACKGROUND AND SMEARS: ISTOCK.COM

1. DOUBLE DUTY Fill in your brows and line your eyes with a powder that leaves a softer finish than pencil. CoverGirl Bombshell Pow-der Brow + Liner by LashBlast in Dark Brown, $11.

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6. 5.

5. ALL ABOUT THAT BASE Dust a powder foundation over your skin for an even base and a perfect starting point. Yves Rocher Zero Default Flawless Skin Powder in Medium Gold, $31. 6 CANDY POP This perfectly pink lip color will make your smile seem a little sweeter. Make Up For Even Rouge Artist Intense #54 (Pearly Golden Pink), $23. 7. BLUE NOTE A sweep of pale blue is a subtle way to bring color to your dazzling eyes. Burberry Eye Color Wet & Dry Silk Shadow in Stone Blue No. 307, $33.

HAIR REPAIR Treat your dried-out locks to a full recovery 2.

7.

5.

3. 4.

1.

1. Hard-working conditioners soften your hair’s texture both during and after your color. Clairol Expert Age Defy, $14. 2. Take control of your mane with an arsenal of targeted products. Sebastian Split End Mend Emergency Kit, $15. 3. Leave winter’s dull hair behind with a weekly deep conditioning treatment. 2chic Ultra Repair Collection Ultra Repair Intensive Hair Mask with Blackberry & Coconut Milk, $9. 4. Smooth your hair with a frizz-controlling shine serum. Herbal Essences Moroccan Me a Miracle 7-in-1 Serum, $3. 5. Hydrate your hair while sealing its damaged cuticles. Pantene Pro-V Power Up Daily Treatment, $8.

SPRING 2015

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fashion IN THIS ISSUE Pastel hues and sophisticated silhouettes… Chic and easy in shades of blue… Modern khakis go cosmopolitan… Beautiful styles for the blushing bride… Simple whites in a timeless style…

PHOTS: DANA VAN LEEUWEN.

THE PERFECT STEP Feel beautiful from head to toe with a pair of stunning shoes. This heel, with its delicate lace and peek-aboo detailing, is both classic and feminine, and fit for spring. Shoe: Jimmy Choo; Rings: Thomas Sabo.

SPRING 2015

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burda fashion

THE SWEET LIFE

Celebrate the start of spring with darling styles in sugary shades of green, pink, and blue PHOTOGRAPHY: A&F STUDIO PRODUCTION: SABINE MAEULEN

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SPRING 2015

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burda fashion OPPOSITE PAGE

BLUE SKIES

SLIM LADIES’ JACKET 107-022015-US PATTERN INSERT BURDA SIZES 36 – 44

PENCIL SKIRT WITH ZIP FLY 109-022015-US PATTERN INSERT BURDA SIZES 34 – 44

A classic blazer is softened with rounded edges along the hem and collar, and looks feminine in a powder blue jacquard. A matching skirt with a pointed back yoke and fly-front zipper completes the enchanting ensemble. FABRIC & NOTIONS

Jacquard, zipper, snap fasteners. Necklace: Nina Trommen; Belt: Rich & Royal.

RAY OF LIGHT SQUARE-NECK TOP 111-022015-US A-LINE SKIRT WITH PLEATED YOKE 106-022015-US PATTERN INSERT BURDA SIZES 34 – 42

Two statement pieces work together to create one show-stopping outfit. The charming top has a glamorous feel with its square neckline and sleeve flounces, while the skirt dazzles with an intricate pleated yoke and front box pleats. FABRIC & NOTIONS

Top: Boucle knit. Skirt: Metallic jacquard, invisible zipper. Sunglasses: Prada; Shoes: Gianvito Rossi.

Care Tip Polyester jacquard can be machinewashed on a gentle cycle in cold water. Silk or wool jacquard should only be dry cleaned, especially when woven with metallic threads.

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burda fashion

NATURAL BEAUTY

TEA DRESS 101-022015-US PATTERN INSERT BURDA SIZES 36 – 44

This feminine frock is the ultimate sunny-day staple, with short raglan sleeves and a breezy flared skirt. A belt worn over the dress adds a subtle embellishment and defines the waist. FABRIC & NOTIONS

Metallic print, zipper. Belt: Rich & Royal; Bracelets and rings: Stella & Dot.

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burda fashion This peplum top is in petite sizes 17-21

WORK OF ART

STRUCTURED PEPLUM TOP 115-022015-US BURDA SIZES 17 – 21

You’ll be the talk of the town in this gorgeous peplum jacket. Short, sleek, and oh-so-sweet, this jacket stands out with its pieced sleeves, paneled bodice, and figureflattering peplum. FABRIC & NOTIONS

Jacquard, ribbon, hooks and eyes. Sunglasses: Michael Kors.

Style idea Sew the jacket in leather for a sharp, edgy look.

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burda fashion

LEADING LADY PRINCESS SEAM BOATNECK TOP 104-022015-US PATTERN INSERT

PLEATED A-LINE SKIRT 105-022015-US BURDA SIZES 34 – 42

This enticing off-theshoulder top reveals the perfect amount of skin for a look that’s sultry yet sophisticated. With short raglan sleeves and princess seams, this top will add an elegant touch to any outfit. The knee-length skirt with side-pointed yokes and eye-catching pleats is a perfect example, sewn in a matching fabric to make a stylish two-piece dress. FABRIC & NOTIONS

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HAIR AND MAKEUP: SONIA PENA.

Piqué, zipper, button. Bracelet: Marjana von Berlepsch; Clutch: Jimmy Choo.

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burda fashion

PICTURESQUE DEEP V-NECK TOP 117-022015-US

BURDA SIZES 34/36 – 42/44

Both casual and elegant, this loosely cut blouse looks striking in a red wine shade. The plunging V-neckline adds a seductive touch to the unfitted silhouette. FABRIC & NOTIONS

Crêpe. Necklace: Nina Trommen; Bracelet: Philippe Ferrandis.

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burda fashion

BLUE SKIES A selection of polished and picturesque designs are brought to life in an enchanting array of blue and white

PHOTOGRAPHER: DANA VAN LEEUWEN PRODUCTION: MIRIAM NOWAK AYALA

Style idea Use fun, decorative buttons on the jacket for a totally unique look.

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burda fashion

OPPOSITE PAGE

IN THE NAVY BOUCLÉ JACKET 102-022015-US PATTERN INSERT BURDA SIZES 36 – 44

This versatile doublebreasted jacket, featuring a handmade fringe border, is easy to dress up or down. You can wear it with jeans for a casual look, or sew a matching skirt to create sophisticated suit. FABRIC & NOTIONS

Bouclé; snap fasteners. Hat: Stetson; Jeans: Twin-Set; Shirt and sandals: Marc O’Polo.

ER MASETCE PI

THIS PAGE

TEA PARTY

CAP SLEEVE DRESS WITH FAUX TOP 108-022015-US BURDA SIZES 36 – 44

You’ll be admired like fine china in this stunning two-piece dress! The classic blue and white print turns this dress into a true work of art. FABRIC & NOTIONS

Cotton stretch satin, zipper. Bracelet: Saskia Diez; Sneakers: Bensimon.

Style Idea If you choose to sew the two-piece dress in contrasting fabrics, a darker fabric for the skirt will slim the lower body, while a darker shade on top will help narrow a broad torso. A matching top and skirt will create a long and lean silhouette.

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burda fashion

BLUE MOON

TOP WITH LEATHER TRIM 113-022015-US BURDA SIZES 34 – 42

A softly draped neckline with shoulder closure adds a subtle touch to this simple, straight-cut shirt. Leather panels are sewn to the sleeves for added flair. FABRIC & NOTIONS

Knit fabric, leather, snap fasteners, ribbon. Bracelet: Thomas Sabo; Denim shorts: Twin-Set.

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SOFT SIDE

OVERSIZED CARDIGAN 111.1-022015-US BURDA SIZES 34/36, 38/40, 42/44

WORKOUT PANTS 112-022015-US PATTERN INSERT BURDA SIZES 36 – 44

This long, bouclé cardigan with cuffed sleeves is both comfortable and chic. Cozy casual pants with an elastic waistband and cuffed ankles complete the lounge-worthy look.

Style idea Add shape to the loose-fitting cardigan by wearing a belt.

FABRIC & NOTIONS

Jacket: bouclé. Pants: Jersey, elastic, cording. Straw hat: Gant; Shirt and sandals: Marc O’Polo.

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burda fashion

SKY’S THE LIMIT

CROPPED CHAMBRAY BLOUSE 105A-022015-US FLORAL SKINNY JEANS 115.1-022015-US PATTERN INSERT BURDA SIZES 34 – 44

This cropped and collared blouse is a modern alternative to a classic button-up, with a hem that’s longer in back and elbow-length sleeves. Pair it with fitted denim trousers in an enticing floral print. FABRIC & NOTIONS

Style idea If the cropped cut leaves you feeling too exposed at the waist, wear a long tank top underneath for a layered look, or tuck the blouse into a highwaisted skirt.

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HAIR AND MAKEUP: YOKAW FOR LAURA MERCIER/ANGELIQUE HOORN MANAGEMENT.

Blouse: chambray, buttons. Jeans: stretch twill, zipper. Hat: Stetson; Bracelet: Saskia Diez; Shoes: Bensimon.

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burda fashion

WELL CONNECTED

FLARED SKIRT 104.1-022015-US BURDA SIZES 36 – 44

A bouclé skirt joins forces with the matching jacket (from page 32) to create a pretty and polished spring suit! The skirt lends a feminine flair to the outfit, with contoured panel seams and a playful hem flounce. FABRIC & NOTIONS

Bouclé, zipper. Ring: Saskia Diez; Sandals: Jimmy Choo.

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style savvy

CASUAL ELEGANCE You don’t have to sacrifice comfort for the sake of style. These casual pants pair perfectly with blouses and sophisticated jewelry for a look that is effortlessly chic. Or lay on the sequins, sparkles, and stylish accents — the laid-back look of these stretchy trousers tones down more extravagant pieces to bring you the best of both worlds.

BURDASTYLE GERMANY’S EDITOR-IN-CHIEF DAGMAR BILY SAYS:

SIGHT SEEING

GLITTER AND GOLD Jacket, BurdaStyle 12/13, Style 111

SUBTLE-TEE T-shirt, Bruno Manetti

IN THE BAG Purse, Liu Jo

These cute “workout pants are

GO GREEN Earrings, Chaingang SMOOTH OPERATOR Hair Oil, L’Oréal

SNAPSHOT Camera, Lomo LC Wide

WORKOUT PANTS 112-022015-US ON PAGE 35

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TWINKLE TOES Boots, Sendra

PHOTOS: JAN SCHMIEDEL; ACHIM GRAF (1). PRODUCTION: CHIARA BRUNET.

one of my favorite pieces for spring. Just like jeans or leggings, they can be styled to look good with almost anything. I’ll wear them when I’m relaxing at home, or add a classy top, heels, and sparkling accessories for wearing at the office or on a night out. The casual pants and glamorous top balance each other out for an outfit that looks great day and night.

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LUNCH DATE

BRIGHT WHITE Blouse, BurdaStyle 09/13, Style 118B

CORAL COAST Top, BurdaStyle.com (Top With Shoulder Tabs)

FOCAL POINT Necklace, Maliparmi by Conleys

20/20 VISION Sunglasses, Dragon Alliance

BUTTON UP Blazer, Oui

APERITIF DOWN

SUNSHINE STATE Bag, Aigner

GO FOR GOLD Clutch, AGL RIGHT ON TIME Watch, Calvin Klein

SWEETLY SCENTED Perfume, Geste, Humiecki and Graef RAISE A GLASS Mint and lime cocktail

LUSH LOCKS Dry shampoo, Bumble and Bumble WALK THIS WAY Sandals, AGI

STRAP HAPPY Sandals, Buffalo

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TIMELESS

BLOUSE WITH PLEATED NECKLINE 133-022015-US PATTERN INSERT BURDA SIZES 44 – 52

This classic wardrobe staple gets a few updates for spring. The white blouse has a relaxed fit and center back closure, as well as darts and pleating to flatter the bust. FABRIC & NOTIONS Poplin, buttons. Bag: Louis Vuitton; Trousers: Triangle by S.Oliver; Sandals: Michael by Michael Kors.

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CJ

oncrete ungle Animal prints are in this season, so why not bring a taste of the wild to the big city with one of summer’s hottest trends! Mix in neutrals and earth tones to keep the look casual and sophisticated IN SIZES 44 – 52 PHOTOGRAPHY: NICOLE NEUMANN PRODUCTION: ANASTASIOS VOULGARIS

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burda woman

This blouse helps minimize a wider waistline

COSMOPOLITAN

KEYHOLE BLOUSE 132-022015-US PATTERN INSERT LEATHER-ACCENT PANTS 134A-022015-US BOTH BURDA SIZES 44 – 52

This classy blouse is a definite head-turner. Ribbon ties close the ruffled neckline, while bust darts add shape to the relaxed silhouette. The stylish snakeskin trousers are made for comfort and wearability with a stretch leather waistband and flared ankles. FABRIC & NOTIONS Blouse: washed silk, ribbon. Pants: stretch twill, stretch leather, trouser hook, button. Glasses: Prada; Bag: Boss; Gold bangle: Tiffany & Co.; Shoes: Buffalo.

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URBAN GIRL

WRAP TOP 137-022015-US ANIMAL PRINT BOOTCUT PANTS 134B-022015-US PATTERN INSERT BOTH BURDA SIZES 44 – 52

This jersey wrap shirt stands out with its waistcinching tie belt and unique sleeve slits. The relaxed-fit blouse pairs nicely with the sleek trousers that feature a front yoke and flared ankles. FABRIC & NOTIONS Shirt: jersey; Pants: stretch twill, zipper, trouser hook, button. Glasses: Ray-Ban; Tank top: Iheart; Bag: Chloé; Bracelets: Liu Jo (gold); Escada (wooden); Shoes: Buffalo.

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burda woman

ON THE MOVE

SQUARE NECKLINE TOP 135A-022015-US PATTERN INSERT BURDA SIZES 44 – 52

FABRIC & NOTIONS Jersey. Glasses: Ray-Ban; Skirt: Peter Hahn; Bracelets: Stella & Dot (gold), Schöniglich; Watch: Guess Watches; Bag: Longchamp; iPad and iPad case: Apple; Sandals: Michael by Michael Kors.

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HAIR AND MAKEUP: MANUELA DEGELMANN.

This simple top with 3/4-length sleeves is fitted but comfortable, made in a soft stretch jersey. A square neckline and a banded bust panel add a touch of style to this everyday top, making it the perfect spring wardrobe basic.

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STREET SMARTS

KNOTTED TOP 136-022015-US PATTERN INSERT BURDA SIZE 44 – 52

With its faux wraparound front, low neckline, and decorative gathers, this jersey top will make even a simple skirt or jeans look stylish and put-together. The neckline is stabilized with interfacing to prevent it from stretching out of shape. FABRIC & NOTIONS Jersey. Glasses: Persol; Necklace: Escada; iPad and iPad case: Apple; Bracelets: Guess Jewels; Skirt: BurdaStyle 09/2009. SPRING 2015

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accessorize METALLIC MAVEN This cuff, which boasts five steel-treated hexagons as the center point, can’t be worn with hesitation. Be fearless or go home. Annchich, $120. FACE OFF The Dream Rose Automatic Quartz watch with a stunning brown strap elicits a subtle safari vibe. Tissot, $3,750.

ON GUARD Protect your essentials (be it a compass, map, or your notes) for your next board meeting with this elegant metallic tweed and leather envelopestyle clutch. Made to keep your MacBook beautifully protected, this stylish piece can easily double as a chic clutch. MODA:KO, $250.

URBAN JUNGLE Veer away from the pack and stand out as the queen with these eye-catching pieces that will make them roar BY HINA P. ANSARI

CHEETAH CHIC Slip into the Tassie sandal and its chic cheetah print as you sprint from your meetings to your mani and then out to mocktails. Aldo, $70. 46

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THREE-POINT TURN Stop traffic or clear the crowd with this stunning Tribeca Pochette in gold metallic. With a glimmer of gold and a cute wristlet, this bag adds a perfect shimmer to your already-fierce look. Blacksea, $695.

REGAL BRILLIANCE The Palace necklace is stylish and substantive. When a queen needs to shine, what better way to do so than with this? Rosena Sammi, $66.

WRAP IT UP Beautiful marine-inspired rope bracelets invite you to pile it on without thinking twice. Kiel James Patrick (striped), $75.

PACK A PUNCH Not only does this gorgeous black tote make a statement (in vegan leather no-less), but by purchasing this Sunday Tote II, you’ll be making a donation to Melanoma Research Foundation. Angela & Roi, $150.

STEP IN THE SUN The Cairo bootie, with an architectural flair in the heel and beautiful mesh floral pattern, adds a delightful dash of femininity to the seriously city-chic look. Carolinna Espinosa, $295.

STYLISH SCAN With these stylish Maverick aviatorstyle sunnies, you can scan your surroundings with epic style. TOMS, $139. With every pair of TOMS you purchase, TOMS will help restore sight to a person in need. One for One.

SHEATHS OF STYLE How can one resist these framing your face? Stunning gold Geo Arch brass earrings with their timeless African motif catch the rays while you are on the hunt. Annchich, $92.

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burda fashion

FIRST DANCE

DRESS WITH TOP AND TRAIN 110-022015-US BURDA SIZES 36 – 44

With one look at this collection of enchanting wedding gowns, you’re sure to fall in love all over again

This classic and elegant gown is fit for a fairy tale, with a full, flared skirt and romantic train. The contoured bodice and shoulder-skimming oval neckline create a feminine, figure-flattering silhouette. FABRIC & NOTIONS Embroidered organza, satin, invisible zipper. Earrings and ring: Thomas Sabo.

PHOTOGRAPHY: DANA VAN LEEUWEN PRODUCTION: MIRIAM NOWAK AYALA

Say

“I Do” Style Idea As you sew the satin bodice, add a layer of lace as an eye-catching accent. 48

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MR. AND MRS.

LACE DRESS WITH FAUX TOP 109A-022015-US PATTERN INSERT BURDA SIZES 36 – 44

Dare to be different with this contemporary style on your wedding day. A stylish peplum divides the bodice and skirt of the dress, so you have the option of mixing and matching your fabrics. FABRIC & NOTIONS Lace, silk, invisible zipper. Bracelet: Thomas Sabo; Veil: Alida.

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LOVE STORY

BUSTIER TOP WEDDING DRESS 116B-022015-US PATTERN INSERT BURDA SIZES 17 – 21

You don’t need a revealing dress to look strikingly seductive on your wedding day. Long sleeves and covered shoulders allow for modesty while the sweetheart neckline and fit-and-flare silhouette accentuate your curves. FABRIC & NOTIONS Jacquard, invisible zipper. Bracelet: Thomas Sabo.

An open sweetheart neckline enhances the bust and highlights the collarbone

This dress is in petite sizes 17-21

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burda fashion

TRUE LOVE

TULLE WEDDING GOWN 122-022015-US

This dress is in tall sizes 72-88

PATTERN INSERT BURDA SIZES 72 – 88

This long, flowing gown is like a daydream come to life. The satin bodice is fitted to the hips, where it’s met by long, flowing layers of chiffon and lace. Sheer flutter sleeves add a delicate finish.

HAIR AND MAKEUP: YOKAW FOR LAURA MERCIER/ANGELIQUE HOORN MANAGEMENT.

FABRIC & NOTIONS Tulle lace, satin, chiffon, invisible zipper.

Style Idea To enhance this dreamy, romantic look, pair it with a delicate veil and subtle sparkling accessories.

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accessorize

JUST THE RIGHT DROP Beautifully shaped in the narcissus flower, which symbolizes the end of winter and the beginning of a fruitful and prosperous new season. Set includes necklace above and earrings, opposite page. Jemily, $660.

PINK PETALS This 18k Rose Hanabira Ring with Sapphire and Tourmaline is a wonderful way to keep the spirit of springtime’s bouquet with you everywhere. Suz Somersall, $1,876.

BRIDAL BEAUTY

CLASSIC TIME This watch adds subtle sophistication with the mini size and feminine round case. Don it as your way of adding that extra sparkle (diamond options available), while being sure to remember every second of that memorable day. Tissot, $1,025.

If it’s your special day or that of someone you love, celebrate the moment with pieces that herald in the blossoming season BY HINA P. ANSARI

FLAT RATE FABULOUSNESS Whether worn at the bridal shower or when getting ready on the big day, these fun, metallic ballet slippers with a hint of hardware offer just the right combination of flirt and fun! ALDO, $55. 52

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STEPPING IN STYLE U.K-based designer Aruna Seth is always a heel up when it comes to her fun designs. Her fantastic Candy pumps (available in pink and white) with beaded heels embrace the freshest of hues and add a superb “wow” factor! Aruna Seth, $1,300.

CIRCLE OF HOPE This silver bracelet has an equal balance of delicate and bold. Beautiful baubles spread out the fine chain link giving this piece subtle yet substantive beauty. Links of London, $225.

POLK A DOT PERFECTION A cheerful clutch that doubles as an iPad mini case is just the right touch of joie de vivre when looking to carry your essentials during pre- and post-wedding festivities, or pretty much anytime, really. MODA:KO, $45. NEXT LEVEL SOPHISTICATION Whether you are the bride or a guest, you can’t go wrong with this pink stardust sapphire clutch. It’s a conversation starter and stopper in one. Huntress, $10,000.

SPARKLE AND SHINE This set (see necklace on opposite page), in silver with diamonds and tourmaline embellishments, completes any ensemble. Jemily, $660.

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burda fashion

white HOT Clean-cut lines and simple details make a statement in shades of gray and white, creating a collection of chic and modern styles PHOTOGRAPHY: CARLOS ALSINA PRODUCTION: SABINE MAEULEN

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burda fashion

STEP IT UP

EVENING JUMPSUIT 107A-022015-US BURDA SIZES 36 – 44

This one-piece jumpsuit looks polished and put together with pleated trousers and a wrapstyle front. The silver insert at the neckline is a convenient feature, preventing the low-cut collar from being too revealing while eliminating the need to wear a shirt underneath. FABRICS & NOTIONS

CrĂŞpe, zipper, snap fasteners. Necklace: Tiffany & Co.; Clutch: Kennel & Schmenger; Shoes: Buffalo.

Sewing hint Have someone measure the exact length of your back and adjust the length of the pattern accordingly so that the legs and back will fit perfectly.

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burda fashion

This dress is in petite sizes 17-21

UNDER WRAPS CRISS-CROSS V-NECK DRESS 117.1-022015-US BURDA SIZES 17 – 21

Shaped bands along the bustline are an intriguing addition to this seductive dress, intersecting at the front and wrapping around to the back. A back slit on the skirt allows for easy movement. FABRICS & NOTIONS

On her: Dress: stretch jacquard, invisible zipper. Sandals: Buffalo. On him: shirt: Boss; Jeans: Karl Lagerfeld; Shoes: Jil Sander.

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burda fashion

SPOTLIGHT

FUNNEL-NECK DRESS 112.1-022015-US BURDA SIZES 34 – 42

Be the center of attention in this captivating style. The unique dress is sewn with only one side-seam and fitted to the figure with vertical darts and side hip gathers. It also has asymmetrical sleeves and a draped collar. FABRICS & NOTIONS

Stretch cloqué. Belt: Allude; Arm jewelry: privately owned.

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burda fashion

SPACE AGE

WINGS DRESS 108.1-022015-US BURDA SIZES 36 – 44

This alluring dress has a fashionably futuristic appeal, catching the eye with a sleek boat neckline and structured silhouette. A unique overskirt gives the dress its enticing shape. FABRICS & NOTIONS

Piqué, invisible zipper. Watch: Certina; Sandals: Kennel & Schmenger.

Sewing hint Fabric with some stiffness is needed to maintain the structured silhouette of the dress.

CROSS THE LINE

X-WRAP DRESS 106.1-022015-US

BURDA SIZES 36 – 44

The crossover shawl collar is the most striking feature of this short-sleeved dress. The soft silk fabric allows it to fall beautifully over your body. FABRICS & NOTIONS

On her: washed silk, invisible zipper. Bangle: Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co.; Clutch: Allude. On him: jacket: BurdaStyle; Watch: Michael Kors.

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burda fashion

DYNAMIC DUO

KNIT V-NECK PULLOVER 109.1-022015-US PATTERN INSERT

SKINNY PANTS WITH HIP YOKE 110A-022015-US PATTERN INSERT BOTH BURDA SIZES 34 – 44

This slinky sweater with overcut shoulders looks clean-cut and casual when paired with white pleated trousers. The trousers taper at the ankle for a smooth, tailored finish. FABRICS & NOTIONS

On her: Sweater: knit fabric. Pants: silk crêpe, invisible zipper. Necklace: Pomellato; Bangle: privately owned; Sandals: Gabor. On him: Watch: Calvin Klein; T-shirt: Cos; Sweater: Boss; Shoes: Jil Sander.

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burda fashion

SIMPLY STUNNING

FUNNEL-NECK TOP 111A-022015-US BURDA SIZES 34 – 42

CUMBERBUND SKIRT 114-022015-US PATTERN INSERT BURDA SIZES 34 – 44

Simplicity at its finest! The light gray knit top is easy to sew and features a flattering cowl neckline. It looks stunning tucked into the high-waisted skirt, which features a contoured waistband and tie belt. FABRICS & NOTIONS

Top: jersey. Skirt: poplin, invisible zipper. Earrings: Tiffany & Co.; Watch: Karl Lagerfeld; Shoes: Strenesse.

WHITE KNIGHT MEN’S LINEN JACKET 128-022015-US MEN’S LINEN PANTS 129-022015-US

BOTH BURDA SIZES 48 – 56

He’ll be on every best-dressed list in this stylish jacket and trouser ensemble. Both pieces are lightweight and breathable, and don’t require a lining. The versatile jacket can also be worn with shorts for a casual, everyday look. FABRICS & NOTIONS

Silk linen, buttons, zipper. Shirt: Boss; Watch: Michael Kors.

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burda fashion

STRAIGHT AND NARROW WRAP BLOUSE 115A-022015-US PATTERN INSERT BURDA SIZES 34 – 42

LOW-RISE CROPPED PANTS 116-022015-US BURDA SIZES 34 – 44

It’s all about the angles with this sharp ensemble! These 7⁄8 -length trousers lengthen the leg with long, crisp creases, and the asymmetrical top stands out with a dramatic crossover front. FABRICS & NOTIONS

Blouse: crêpe. Pants: wool tissue faille, buttons. Necklace: Tiffany; Shoes: Santoni.

Style idea

HAIR AND MAKEUP: TINA MONZÓN.

If you’d prefer a longer blouse, you can easily adjust the pattern to your desired length.

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LIMITED QUANTITIES!

Pattern Kit of the Month

LIMITED EDITION KITS provide everything you need to create a customized version of a popular burdastyle pattern.

Pattern PDF download Step-by-step instructions Technique how-to videos Optional pattern alterations Styling guides

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SEWING INSTRUCTIONS Spring 2015

ALL STYLES AT A GLANCE THE SWEET LIFE Pages 26-31 104

101

107

111

117 115

106

105 109

PATTERN INSERT PATTERN INSERT

PATTERN INSERT

PATTERN INSERT

PATTERN INSERT

WHITE HOT Pages 54-61 107 A

108.1

117.1

106.1

109.1

115 A

PATTERN INSERT

112.1

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PATTERN INSERT 111 A 110 A PATTERN INSERT

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CONCRETE JUNGLE Pages 40-45 133

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134 A

SAY “I DO” Pages 48-51 109 A

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PHOTOS: U2/ULI GLASEMANN. PRODUCTION: MARIANNE MUSSLER.

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BLUE SKIES Pages 32-37 112

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®

Instructions

If you’ve never used a Burda pattern before, or you need a little reminder, these valuable hints will help make your garment a sure success. Burda patterns are slightly different than other brands, so read through these instructions thoroughly before you begin your project. Some of the patterns in the magazine will be found on the pattern insert sheets stapled into the magazine. To access those patterns, bend the staples open, remove the sheets, then close the staples again. The rest of the patterns are available as digital downloads at BurdaStyle.com. You’ll see the full URL beside the pattern number in the following instruction pages.

Patterns on the insert sheets. n Burda patterns available on the insert sheets include 5⁄8" (1.5 cm) seam allowances and 11⁄2" (3.8 cm) hem allowances. n In the garment’s pattern overview box in the sewing instructions, you’ll find the color of the pattern line (red, blue, green, or black), the pattern sheet location (A–D), the pattern piece numbers, the size outlines, and the pattern piece flats. n To find the pattern pieces, look for each pattern piece number in the stated color along the edge of the appropriate pattern sheet. For example, if your garment has its pattern in green on sheet C and includes pieces 1–7, look along the edges of pattern sheet C to find the number 1 written in green. Once you’ve found that, use it as your starting point to follow an imaginary line perpendicular to the pattern sheet edge until you point to the green 1 along a pattern piece cutting line. That’s the pattern piece you need. Do the same for the remaining pattern piece numbers. n Some pattern pieces may have been split in two to fit on the pattern insert sheets. If this is the case, the pattern piece number (1 for example) will be seen on the indicated sheet a second time with the letter “a”. You will combine piece 1 with piece 1a by lining up the joining line (a double line) and matching the small triangles. n Trace the pattern pieces onto pattern paper. n Copy all markings and seam numbers onto your new paper pattern pieces. Check them against the drawings in the instructions to ensure they were copied correctly.

Additional information: n The fabric requirements given are based on the fabric used in our original designs. These amounts will change if you use fabric of a different width. n The cutting layouts included with the sewing instructions show our recommended way to place the pattern pieces. Unless instructed otherwise, fold the fabric in half with the right sides together, bringing together the opposing selvedges. When cutting from a single layer of fabric, the right side of the fabric should face up. n Pattern pieces shown in the cutting layout with broken outlines should be pinned to the fabric with the printed side facing down. n Pattern pieces shown in the cutting layout with shading require interfacing. Shaded areas of a larger pattern piece require interfacing for that particular portion. n Transfer the pattern piece lines to the wrong side of the fabric with tailor‘s chalk. Hand-baste along placement lines (e.g. for pockets or center front) to make them visible on the right side of the fabric.

Patterns available as downloads n Burda patterns available as digital downloads can be purchased online at BurdaStyle.com. Most do not include seam and hem allowances. We recommend adding 5⁄8" (1.5 cm) for seams and 11⁄2" (3.8 cm) for hems. Instructions may indicate otherwise, but if not, this is the standard. n To download the pattern pieces needed, go to the URL listed in the sewing instructions and find the appropriate garment’s PDF. n Print your pattern PDF (using the latest version of Adobe Reader) on 81⁄2" × 11" (A4) paper. Select the option to print the PDF at its actual size. Do not select “fit to page”. n Assemble your PDF pages, following the instructions included with the download.

TIP

Fabrics may shrink when laundered for the first time, especially those made of

cotton, linen, and rayon. To avoid shrinkage of the finished garment, these fabrics should be pre-treated (washed and dried before cutting out the fabric pieces). Use the temperature settings you plan to use for the finished garment. If you want to test the amount of shrinkage of your fabric, cut a square of the fabric and measure it exactly. Finish the edges, then wash it, and compare the size after washing with the original size.

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Symbols Armhole markings These small lines at the edges of the sleeve and front armhole pieces must meet when the sleeve is set in. Fold Broken line In the cutting layout, the broken line indicates the fold edge of a double layer of fabric. Selvedges Button

Buttonhole

Eyelet opening

Fold line In the pattern overview box, this broken line means that the pattern edge must be placed on a fold and not cut. Joining line Large pattern pieces that cannot fit on the pattern insert sheet will be in two pieces. These pieces must be taped together after they have been traced onto pattern paper. A double line indicates the joining line and small triangles indicate match points. Lengthening If a pattern piece is too long to fit on the pattern insert sheet, you will need to lengthen it when you trace the pattern piece onto pattern paper. Lengthen the pattern from the point of the arrow by the amount indicated in centimeters at the arrow. Pleat symbol Fold the pleat in the direction of the arrow. Presser foot A presser foot image indicates seam and topstitching lines. Scissors Scissors indicate slash lines, such as welt pocket openings. (On downloadable patterns, scissors indicate edges to be cut without an added seam allowance.) Seam marks Shown on long seams, these small lines perpendicular to the cutting line indicate edges to be matched. Match the seam marks to one another. Seam numbers Adjacent pattern pieces that must be sewn together are indicated with the same seam numbers. Match pieces with the same numbers. Slit/Placket mark This small, thick line that intersects the cutting line indicates beginning or end of a slit or placket.

Placket/slit mark

The following symbols will only be found on the pattern pieces in the pattern overview box. On the pattern insert sheet and on the downloadable pattern pieces, the words are written out. Ease Gather Stretch

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TAKING MEASUREMENTS 1

2

4

3

5

6

For the best fit, it’s important to take precise measurements. Measure your body while wearing underwear or close-fitting garments, and have someone assist you if needed. Use a flexible measuring tape to measure around your body, ensuring the tape is taut but not tight and parallel to the floor. Stand upright with a relaxed posture, and breathe normally while you measure. 1 Bust: Measure around the fullest part of your bust. Neck circumference: Measure the circumference at the base of the neck and above the collarbone. 2 Waist: Measure around your natural waist, the narrowest part. Hips: Measure horizontally around the fullest part of your bottom and upper thighs. Additional measurements: 3 Front waist length: Measure from the side base of the neck over the apex of the bust to the natural waistline. Bust depth: Measure from the side base of the neck to the apex of the bust.

4 Back waist length: Measure from the base of your neck to the natural waistline. Back width: Measure horizontally between your arm attachment points. 5 Shoulder: Measure from the base of your neck to the tip of your shoulder. Upper arm: Measure around the fullest part of your upper arm. 6 Arm length: With your arm slightly bent, measure from the tip of your shoulder over the elbow to the natural waistline.

Important: Compare your body measurements to the appropriate Burda size chart here or on BurdaStyle.com. Circle each of your body measurements on the size chart since you may want to adjust your pattern to fit a range of sizes. Your Burda size will be different from your regular store-bought clothing size. WOMEN’S SIZE CHART (Regular) inches BURDA SIZE 32 34 36 38 HEIGHT 661⁄4 661⁄4 661⁄4 661⁄4 BUST 30 311⁄2 33 343⁄4 WAIST 23 241⁄2 26 273⁄4 HIP 321⁄2 34 351⁄2 37 BACK LENGTH 153⁄4 16 161⁄4 161⁄2 SLEEVE LENGTH 231⁄4 231⁄4 231⁄4 233⁄4 NECK WIDTH 13 133⁄8 133⁄4 141⁄8 SIDE LEG LENGTH 393⁄4 401⁄4 401⁄4 403⁄4 FRONT WAIST LENGTH 161⁄2 17 171⁄4 173⁄4 BUST POINT 91⁄2 97⁄8 101⁄4 103⁄4 UPPER ARM CIRCUMFERENCE 97⁄8 101⁄4 103⁄4 111⁄8

MEN’S SIZE CHART (Regular) inches 40 661⁄4 361⁄4 291⁄4 383⁄4 161⁄6 233⁄4 141⁄2

42 661⁄4 373⁄4 303⁄4 401⁄4 163⁄4 24 15

41

41

44 661⁄4 391⁄2 321⁄2 413⁄4 17 24 153⁄8

46 661⁄4 41 34 431⁄2 171⁄8 24 153⁄4

48 661⁄4 431⁄2 361⁄4 451⁄2 171⁄4 24 161⁄8

50 661⁄4 451⁄2 383⁄4 48 171⁄2 241⁄2 161⁄2

52 661⁄4 48 41 501⁄2 173⁄4 241⁄2 17

54 661⁄4 501⁄2 431⁄2 523⁄4 18 243⁄4 171⁄4

56 661⁄4 52¾ 451⁄2 551⁄4 181⁄4 243⁄4 173⁄4

58 661⁄4 55¼ 48 571⁄2 181⁄2 243⁄4 181⁄8

60 661⁄4 571⁄2 501⁄2 60 181⁄2 243⁄4 181⁄2

411⁄2 411⁄2 411⁄2 413⁄4 413⁄4 413⁄4 421⁄4 421⁄2 421⁄2

181⁄8 181⁄2 19 191⁄4 193⁄4 201⁄4 201⁄2 21 211⁄4 213⁄4 221⁄4 111⁄8 111⁄2 117⁄8 121⁄4 123⁄4 13 131⁄2 141⁄4 141⁄2 143⁄4 15 111⁄2 117⁄8 121⁄4 123⁄4 131⁄2 141⁄2 15

WOMEN’S SIZE CHART (Petite) inches * These sizes are Burda petite sizes and differ in height from the regular sizes. The height measurements are from 63 to 66¼ inches. If you are taller than 66¼ inches, you can make alterations to the length of the garment, the sleeve length, etc. to fit your measurements. BURDA SIZE 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 HEIGHT 63 63 63 63 63 63 63 63 BUST 30 31½ 33 34¾ 36¼ 37¾ 39½ 41 WAIST 23 24½ 26 27¾ 29¼ 30¾ 32½ 34 HIP 32½ 34 35½ 37 38¾ 40¼ 41¾ 43½ 16 161⁄8 16¼ 163⁄8 BACK LENGTH 15 15¼ 153⁄8 15¾ SLEEVE LENGTH 22½ 22½ 22½ 23 23 23¼ 23¼ 23¼ NECK WIDTH 13 133⁄8 13¾ 141⁄8 14½ 15 153⁄8 15¾ SIDE LEG LENGTH 38¼ 38¾ 38¾ 39 39½ 39½ 39¾ 39¾ FRONT WAIST LENGTH 15¾ 16¼ 16½ 17 17¼ 17¾ 181⁄8 18½ 9½ 97⁄8 10¼ 10¾ 111⁄8 11½ 117⁄8 BUST POINT 91⁄8 UPPER ARM CIRCUMFERENCE 97⁄8 10¼ 10¾ 111⁄8 11½ 117⁄8 12¼ 12¾

153⁄4 161⁄2 171⁄4 181⁄4

BURDA SIZE 44

48

50 52

54

56

HEIGHT

66¼ 67¼ 68½ 69¾ 71 71¾ 72½

CHEST

345⁄8 36¼ 37¾ 39¼ 41 42½ 44

WAIST

30¾ 32¼ 34 35½ 37 38½ 41

SEAT

35½ 37 38½ 40 40¾ 43½ 45¼

BACK LENGTH

16½ 17 17¼ 17½ 17¾ 18 18¼

ARM LENGTH

24 24½ 24¾ 25¼ 25½ 26 26½

NECK

14½ 15 15¼ 15¾ 16 16½ 17

WOMEN’S SIZE CHART (Tall) inches * These sizes are Burda tall sizes and differ in height from the regular sizes. The height measurement is 69¼ inches and up. If you are shorter than 69¼ inches, you can make alterations to the length of the garment, the sleeve length, etc. to fit your measurements. BURDA SIZE 64 68 72 76 80 84 88 92 HEIGHT 69¼ 69¼ 69¼ 69¼ 69¼ 69¼ 69¼ 69¼ BUST 30 31½ 33 34¾ 36¼ 37¾ 39½ 41 WAIST 23 24½ 26 27¾ 29¼ 30¾ 32½ 34 HIP 32½ 34 35½ 37 38¾ 40¼ 41¾ 43½ BACK LENGTH 16½ 16¾ 17 171⁄8 17¼ 17½ 17¾ 18 SLEEVE LENGTH 24 24 24 24½ 24½ 24¾ 24¾ 24¾ 15 153⁄8 15¾ NECK WIDTH 13 133⁄8 13¾ 141⁄8 14½ SIDE LEG LENGTH 41½ 41¾ 41¾ 42¼ 42½ 42½ 43 43 FRONT WAIST 19¼ 19¾ 20¼ LENGTH 17¼ 17¾ 181⁄8 18½ 19 BUST POINT 97⁄8 10¼ 10¾ 111⁄8 11½ 117⁄8 12¼ 12¾ UPPER ARM CIRCUMFERENCE 97⁄8 10¼ 10¾ 111⁄8 11½ 117⁄8 12¼ 12¾ SPRING 2015

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SEWING INFORMATION

INTERFACING Most Burda garments use fusible interfacing, and the pieces that require interfacing are indicated on the cutting layout by gray shading. If the fabric is not compatible with fusible interfacing, substitute sew-in. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for all fusible interfacings, as some require moisture for proper fusing and others do not. Always test interfacing on a scrap of your garment fabric to be sure it’s compatible and adds the needed body and stability. INVISIBLE ZIPPER Many Burda designs feature an invisible zipper—they’re easy to install and no topstitching shows on the finished application, making for a clean, smooth seam. You will need a special invisible zipper foot for installation, and they’re available where zippers are sold. Be sure to get the version that fits your machine model. Invisible

zippers are installed before the seam is sewn, unlike conventional zippers where the seam is sewn to the opening, and then the zipper is installed. NOTIONS Each pattern indicates notions specific to that design. In addition, you will require fabric scissors, pins, tailor’s chalk, matching threads, and other sewing essentials, plus tools for tracing pattern pieces including paper scissors, rulers, tape, and pattern paper. Garments with zippers require the use of a zipper foot for your machine—either a standard foot for regular zippers, or an invisible zipper foot for invisible zippers. SEAM FINISHING It’s always a good idea to finish raw edges on woven fabrics, but knits do not usually require finishing. Seam allowances should be finished separately unless otherwise indicated. Use an overedge, zigzag or overcast stitch for finishing, or serge raw edges. Lined garments generally do not require seam finishing as seams will be encased by the lining. UNDERSTITCHING Understitching involves edgestitching the seam allowance to the garment underside so that the lining or facing remains on the inside of the garment and doesn’t roll out. To understitch, press the seam allowances toward the lining or facing, then trim and grade the seam allowances and clip curves if needed. With the fabric facing right side up, edgestitch on the lining/facing side, sewing through all seam allowances to hold them in place. Understitching is not visible on the outside of the garment and is most commonly found along necklines and armholes.

To install an invisible zipper, follow these steps: n Open the zipper and push the zipper teeth/ coil back with your thumbnail to reveal the seamline marking between the zipper tape and the coil. Place the open zipper right-side down on the fabric right side of one opening edge, and align the invisible zipper seamline marking with the fabric seamline. (The zipper tape will be on the same side as the fabric edge.) Pin the zipper tape in place. The bottom end of the zipper will extend past the marked opening end. Place the invisible zipper foot over the zipper so the coil is in one of the notches and the needle is aligned with the seamline. Stitch the zipper in place from the top down. Close the zipper. n Place the other zipper tape right-side down on the right side of the fabric of the opposite opening edge. Align, pin, and sew the other side of the zipper in place just as you did in the previous step. Close the zipper. n Stitch the seam below the zipper, from the bottom to the top. As you approach the bottom of the zipper, turn the loose lower end of the zipper out of the way. Stitch as close as possible to the last stitches of the zipper seams. The zipper tail remains loose inside the garment, or you can trim it and bind the ends if desired.

GLOSSARY OF TERMS AND TECHNIQUES BACKSTITCH Stitching in reverse for a short distance at the beginning and end of a seamline to secure the stitches. Most machines have a button or knob for this function (also called backtack). BASTING Using long, loose stitches to hold something in place temporarily. To baste by machine, use the longest straight stitch length available on your machine. To baste by hand, use stitches at least 1⁄4" (6 mm) long. Use a contrasting thread to make the stitches easier to spot for removal. BIAS The direction across a fabric at a 45-degree angle from the lengthwise or crosswise grain. The bias has high stretch and a very fluid drape. DART This stitched triangular fold is used to give shape and form to the fabric to fit body curves.

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crosswise. The lengthwise grain runs parallel to the selvedges; the crosswise grain should always be perpendicular to the lengthwise threads. In knit fabrics, the lengthwise grain runs along the wales (ribs), parallel to the edges, with the crosswise grain running along the courses (perpendicular to the wales). GRAINLINE A pattern marking showing the direction of the grain. Make sure the grainline marked on the pattern runs parallel to the lengthwise grain of your fabric, unless the grainline is specifically marked as crosswise or bias. INTERFACING Material used to stabilize or reinforce fabrics. Fusible interfacing has an adhesive coating on one side that adheres to fabric when ironed.

EDGESTITCH A row of topstitching placed very close (1⁄16"–1⁄8" [2–3 mm]) to an edge or an existing seamline.

RIGHT SIDE The front side, or the side that should be on the outside of a finished garment. On a printed fabric, the print will be stronger on the right side of the fabric.

FABRIC GRAIN The grain is created in a woven fabric by the threads that travel lengthwise and

RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER The right sides of two fabric layers should be facing each other.

burda style.com

SEAM ALLOWANCE The amount of fabric between the raw edge and the seamline. SELVEDGE This is the tightly woven border on the lengthwise edges of woven fabric and the finished lengthwise edges of knit fabric. STITCH IN THE DITCH Stitches sewn directly into the “ditch” of a seamline. To stitch in the ditch, lay the garment right-side up under the presser foot. Sew in the “ditch” between the two fabric pieces, and the stitches will disappear into the seam. TOPSTITCH Used to hold pieces firmly in place and/ or to add a decorative effect, a topstitch is simply a stitch that can be seen on the outside of the garment or piece. To topstitch, make a line of stitching on the outside (right side) of the piece, usually a set distance from an existing seam or edge. WRONG SIDE The wrong side of the fabric is the underside, or the side that should be on the inside of a finished garment. On a print fabric, the print will be lighter or less obvious on the wrong side of the fabric.

© 2014 Verlag Aenne Burda GmbH & Co. KG, Hubert-Burda-Platz 2, 77652 Offenburg, Germny. All designs anre copyrighted. Copying for commercial purposes is prohibited.

EASE PLEAT Coat and jacket linings require some ease to allow for movement, and the simplest way to provide that is by adding an ease pleat at the center back of the lining. Before cutting your fabric, add 3⁄4" (2 cm) to the center back seam or center back fold of the pattern, so you’re actually adding a total of 11⁄2" (3.8 cm) of extra fabric for ease. With right sides together, 3⁄4" (2 cm) away from the center back edge, stitch at the top and bottom of the back piece parallel to the center back edge for 2" (5 cm). Backstitch at the seam ends. In between those permanent stitching lines, baste along the 3⁄4" (2 cm) line. Press the ease pleat to one side, and baste across the top and bottom to hold the pleat in place. Once the lining is sewn into the garment, remove the basting to open the ease pleat.

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project instructions

101-

022015-US Tea Dress  PATTERN AVAILABLE ON INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 on page 28 Finished length from waist: 24½" (62 cm)

Materials Metallic print, 54" (137 cm) wide: size 36: 2½ yds (2.2 m); sizes 38, 40, 42: 25⁄8 yds (2.25 m); size 44: 27⁄8 yds (2.55 m) Interfacing Notion: 1 invisible zipper, 24" (60 cm) long Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

Preparation Trace pieces 1-9, 14, and 15 from pattern sheet. Cut out all paper pieces.

Seam and hem allowances Seams and edges, 5⁄8" (1.5 cm); hem, 15⁄8" (4 cm); sleeve hems, ¾" (2 cm)

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Metallic print: 1 center front, cut 1 on fold 2 side front, cut 2 3 center back, cut 2 4 side back, cut 2 5 sleeve front, cut 2 6 sleeve back, cut 2

7 front skirt with integrated pocket, cut 1 on fold 8 side skirt with integrated pocket, cut 1 on fold 9 back skirt, cut 2 14 front neck facing, cut 1 on fold 15 back neck facing, cut 2 Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.

Construction ■ Stitch bust darts. Press darts down. ■ On bodice, stitch front and back section seams and side seams. Press section seam allowances toward center and press side seam allowances open. ■ Stitch lower sleeve seams (seam number 4). Stitch sleeves to front and back pieces (seam numbers 5 and 6). Press seam allowances toward sleeves, from upper edges to beginning of underarm curve. ■ Stitch shoulder seams and upper sleeve seams, beginning and ending exactly on marked neck edge. Press seam allowances open. ■ Stitch darts in side skirt panels. Press front darts forward and press side darts toward back. ■ Fold front skirt along center, right sides together. Stitch side edges of integrated pockets together, from upper edge to corner. Press seam allowances open. Turn skirt rightside out so pocket piece seam lies under center front. Baste pleat folds to sides. ■ Lay front skirt on side skirts, with wrong side facing right fabric side and with integrated pocket pieces aligning. Pin pleat folds to placement lines. On inside, stitch integrated pocket pieces together as marked. Stitch together along long edges of integrated pleats (seam number 9) and

Cutting layouts

Burda pattern skill levels  Quick and easy, great for beginners  Easy to sew, with simple features  Easy to sew, but more timeconsuming  Easy to intermediate level  Intermediate difficulty, for advanced learners  Advanced level sewing, with special features  Challenging, detailed and time-consuming – for pros

along horizontal edges of integrated pocket pieces. Baste pockets to inside of upper skirt edge. ■ Stitch back skirt to side skirts (seam number 10). Press seam allowances open. ■ Stitch skirt to bodice, easing upper edges of front and back skirt panels. Press seam allowances up. ■ Sew invisible zipper to back opening edges (see instructions on page 66). Stitch center back seam from lower edge to zipper. ■ Stitch shoulder seams of facing, beginning and ending exactly at marked neck edge. ■ Face neck edge: With right sides together, pin facing to neck edge. At zipper opening, turn facing back 3⁄16" (5 mm) before opening edge, and pin to upper edge. Turn opening edge seam allowances to outside and pin to neck edge, over facing. Stitch along neck edge. Turn opening edge seam allowances to inside.

Red pattern line, sheets B1-B2 Pattern pieces 1 to 9, 14, and 15 Size 36 3333 Size 38 4444 Size 40 55 Size 42 6666 Size 44 7777

Metallic print, 54" (137 cm) wide Sizes 36 – 42 Fold

Selvedges

Size 44 Fold Fold Selvedge Selvedge

Selvedges

Fold the fabric as shown in the pattern layout—right sides together on a double layer; right side up on a single layer. Cut right and left center back pieces as opposites.

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project instructions

Turn facing up and understitch as far as possible, close to seam. Turn facing to inside and hand-stitch to zipper tapes. Hand-stitch inside facing edges to shoulder seams. ■ Press hem allowances on dress and sleeves to inside and hand-stitch in place.

102-

022015-US Bouclé Jacket

a) 2 pockets, 5½" (14 cm) long, and 53⁄8" (13.5 cm) wide b) bias fringe strip, a total of 166" (420 cm) long, and 1" (2.5 cm) wide (cut without seam allowances) Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout. Fuse interfacing to wrong side of undercollar. Fuse bias stay tape to wrong side of neck and armhole edges, and front shoulder edges.

Construction

 PATTERN AVAILABLE ON INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 on page 32 Finished back length: 23" (58 cm) 7 ⁄8-sleeves: 22" (56 cm) long

Materials Bouclé, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: 25⁄8 yds (2.35 m) Note: Select a fabric that will fray easily. Lining scrap to cover snaps Interfacing Notions: Fusible bias stay tape; 4 large sewon snap fasteners Note: To make both the jacket style 102022015-US and skirt style 104.1-022015US, you will need 3¼ yds (2.9 m) of 60" (152.5 cm) wide fabric. See skirt style 104.1-022015-US for amount of lining fabric needed. Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

Preparation Trace pieces 1-8 from pattern sheet. Trace facing from piece 1 as a separate pattern piece. Cut out all paper pieces.

■ Stitch center back seam. Stitch front and back section seams. Stitch shoulder seams and side seams. Stitch facing shoulder seams. Press seam allowances open. ■ On upper edge of each pocket, zigzag 3 ⁄16" (5 mm) from marked seam allowance. Trim away seam allowance. Pin fringe strip to upper pocket edge. Zigzag along fringe strip center to attach. Fray strip edges and upper pocket edge down to stitching. Press seam allowances on front and side pocket edges to inside. Pin pockets to fronts, 43⁄8" (11 cm) from marked front edges – lower pocket edges meet lower jacket edges. Edgestitch front and side pocket edges and baste lower edges in place, next to seam allowance. ■ Stitch undercollar to neck edge of jacket, beginning and ending stitching exactly at seam mark and clipping seam allowances into corners. Clip seam allowance of fronts at seam marks. Press collar attachment seam open. Stitch top collar to facing in same manner.

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Green pattern line, sheets B1-B2 Pattern pieces 1 to 8 Size 36 3333 Size 38 4444 Size 40 55 Size 42 6666 Size 44 7777

Cutting layouts Bouclé, 60" (152.5 cm) wide Fold

Jacket 102-022015-US Selvedge

Fold

Selvedge

Selvedges

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Bouclé: 1 center front, cut 2 1 front facing, cut 2 2 side front, cut 2 3 center back, cut 2 4 side back, cut 2 5 upper sleeve, cut 2 6 under sleeve, cut 2 7 collar, cut 2 on fold 8 back facing, cut 1 on fold

■ With wrong sides together, lay facing on jacket, aligning upper and undercollar. Pin collar attachment seams together. Along lapel edges, front edges, hem edge, and outer collar edges, zigzag 3⁄16" (5 mm) from seam allowances. Trim away seam allowances. Pin fringe strips to front and hem edges, beginning and ending 1¼" (3 cm) above lapel fold line. Stitch strips in place. Work from facing side to stitch strips to lapel and collar edges, beginning and ending 1¼" (3 cm) below lapel fold line, and making small folds at corners of lapel and collar. Fray strip edges and jacket edges up to stitching lines.

NZ_BS1403_102T

Fold the fabric as shown in the cutting layout— right sides together on a double layer; right side up on a single layer.

Fold

Jacket 102-022015-US and Skirt 104.1-022015-US Selvedge Fold

Fold

Selvedges

Selvedge

Selvedges

Fold

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project instructions

4 side back, cut 2 5 sleeve front, cut 2 6 sleeve back, cut 1 7 front facing, cut 1 on fold 8 back facing, cut 1 on fold Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.

HELPFUL HINT Cover snap fasteners with lining fabric For each snap half, cut a small circle of lining fabric, slightly larger than the snap half (1). Sew a line of short running stitches along the edge of the piece (2) and do not cut thread. Lay the snap half face down on the wrong side of the lining fabric circle. Pull the thread so that the lining covers the snap smoothly. Use the thread to sew the edges of the lining together, with crisscross stitches (3). Hide the thread end securely. Repeat for the second half of the snap.

Construction Extra pattern, shaded pink, sheets A1-A2 Pattern pieces 1 to 8 Size 34 3333 Size 36 4444 Size 38 55 Size 40 6666 Size 42 7777

1

2 3

NZ_BS1402_104T

Cutting layout ■ Stitch sleeve seams. On lower sleeve edges, stitch 31⁄6" (5 mm) from seam allowances. Trim away seam allowances. Stitch fringe strips to lower sleeve edges and fray edges. ■ Set in sleeves, easing sleeve caps. ■ Cover snap fastener sections with lining fabric (see instructions above). Sew top halves of snaps to right front facing as marked, taking even stitches and exiting needle on fabric right side. Sew bottom halves of snaps to left front edge in corresponding positions.

104-

022015-US Princess Seam Boatneck Top

Piqué, 54" (137 cm) wide Sizes 34-42 Fold

BS1402_104WS_Z Nähschule Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for BurdaStyle general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

Preparation

PATTERN AVAILABLE ON INSERT SHEET

Trace pieces 1-8 from pattern sheet. Cut out all paper pieces. It will be easier to cut out the fabric pieces if you copy pieces 5 and 6 twice each.

Materials Piqué, 54" (137 cm) wide: sizes 34, 36: 7 ⁄8 yd (.8 m); sizes 38, 40, 42: 1 yd (.9 m) Interfacing Notions: 1 invisible zipper, 16" (40 cm) long; bias tape, 15⁄8" (4 cm) wide: 20" (.5 m)

104.1-

022015-US Flared Skirt  PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1tq87kM

Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 on page 37 Finished skirt length: 23" (58 cm) Skirt upper edge sits 1¼" (3 cm) below normal waistline

Materials Bouclé, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: sizes 36, 38, 40: 7⁄8 yd (.8 m); sizes 42, 44: 1 yd (.9 m) Note: Select a fabric that will fray easily. Lining, 54" (137 cm) wide: ¾ yd (.55 m) for all sizes Interfacing Notion: 1 invisible zipper, 9" (22 cm) long Note: See style 102-022015-US for the total fabric required to make both skirt style 104.1022015-US and jacket style 102-022015-US.

Selvedges Cut from a double layer of fabric, right sides together.



Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42 on page 30

See detailed sewing instructions for top style 104-022015-US on Sew This! on page 107 of the magazine.

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Pique: 1 center front, cut 1 on fold 2 side front, cut 2 3 center back, cut 2

Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

Preparation Trace pieces 1-7 from pattern sheet. Cut out all paper pieces. Lining: To cut side front skirt lining piece, tape pattern pieces 2 and 3 together, and for side back skirt lining, tape pieces 5 and 6 together.

Seam and hem allowances Seams and edges, 5⁄8" (1.5 cm); no hem allowance at flounce lower edges

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Bouclé: 1 center front skirt, cut 1 on fold

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2 lower side front skirt, cut 2 3 upper side front skirt, cut 2 4 center back skirt, cut 1 on fold 5 lower side back skirt, cut 2 6 upper side back skirt, cut 2 7 hem flounce, cut 2 on fold Lining: 1 center front skirt, cut 1 on fold 2-3 see note in “Preparation" 4 center back skirt, cut 1 on fold 5-6 see note in “Preparation" Interfacing: Fuse shaped strips of interfacing, 15⁄8" (4 cm) wide, to upper skirt lining edges.

Construction ■ On side front and back side skirt pieces, stitch angled section seams (seam numbers 1 and 2). ■ Press seam allowances open. Stitch side front skirt units to center front skirt and stitch side back skirt units to center back skirt. Press seam allowances open. ■ Stitch flounces to lower edges of skirt units. Press seams open. Stitch right side seam. ■ Sew invisible zipper to left opening edges (see instructions on page 66). Stitch left side seam from lower edge to zipper opening. ■ Stitch lining seams, leaving zipper opening as mirror image of skirt opening. Narrowly hem skirt lining. ■ Upper skirt edge: With right sides together, pull lining over skirt. Pin lining to upper skirt edge. At zipper opening, turn lining back 3⁄16" (5 mm) before opening edge, and pin to upper edge. Turn seam allowances on skirt opening edges to outside and pin to upper skirt edge, over lining. Stitch along upper skirt edge. Turn lining and opening seam allowances to inside. Hand-stitch lining to zipper tapes. Topstitch close to upper skirt edge. ■ With a small zigzag stitch, stitch 3⁄16" (5 mm) from lower flounce edge. Fray lower edge of flounce up to stitching.

105-

022015-US Pleated A-Line Skirt  PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1mdZXOe

Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, on page 30 Finished skirt length: 25¼" (64 cm) Skirt sits at natural waistline

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Materials Piqué, 54" (137 cm) wide: 1¾ yds (1.45 m) for all sizes Lining, 54" (137 cm) wide: ½ yd (.4 m) for all sizes Interfacing Notions: 1 invisible zipper, 9" (22 cm) long; 1 button Note: To make both the skirt style 105022015-US and top style 104-022015-US, you will need 25⁄8 yds (2.35 m) of 54" (137 cm) wide piqué and ½ yd (.4 m) of 140 cm wide lining. Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

Preparation Trace pieces 21-24 from pattern sheet. Lengthen piece 22 as indicated. Cut out all paper pieces.

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Piqué: 21 front yoke, cut 2 22 front skirt, cut 1 on fold 23 back yoke, cut 2 24 back skirt, cut 1 on fold a) waistband, with 1" (2.5 cm) underlap: size 34: 265⁄8" (67.5 cm); size 36: 281⁄8" (71.5 cm); size 38: 297⁄8" (75.5 cm); size 40: 31¼" (79.5 cm); size 42: 327⁄8" (83.5 cm) long; and 2½" (6 cm) wide, excluding seam allowances Lining: 21 front yoke, cut 2 23 back yoke, cut 2 Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.

Construction ■ Stitch center seam of yoke front, ending stitching at seamline on lower edge. Press seam allowances open. Stitch darts in back yokes and press toward center. ■ On back yoke, sew invisible zipper in place at opening edges (see instructions on page 66) and stitch center seam. ■ Fold pleats in skirt panels in direction of arrows and press. Baste pleats to upper edge. ■ Stitch yoke front to skirt front and stitch yoke back to skirt back, clipping seam allowance of skirt back into corner. Press seam allowances up. ■ Stitch side seams (seam number 3). ■ On yoke lining, stitch center front seam, center back seam below opening mark, darts, and side seams. With wrong sides together,

pull lining into skirt, turn in back seam allowances, and hand-stitch to zipper tapes. Baste lining to upper skirt edge. Turn in lower lining edge and sew to yoke attachment seam. ■ Stitch waistband to upper skirt edge, leaving underlap extending at right back opening edge. Press seam allowances of attachment seam and of other long edge toward waistband. With right sides together, fold waistband lengthwise. Stitch across ends. Turn right-side out. Sew inside waistband edge to attachment seam and sew underlap edges together. Stitch buttonhole in left back waistband end and sew button on right side in corresponding position. ■ Press hem allowance to inside and handstitch in place.

105A-

022015-US Cropped Chambray Blouse  PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/TJr6MM

Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 on page 36 Finished back length: 20"(50 cm) Note: Back is 15⁄8" (4 cm) longer than front.

Materials Chambray, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: sizes 34, 36: 1½ yds (1.3 m); sizes 38, 40, 42, 44: 15⁄8 yds (1.40 m) Interfacing Notions: 2 medium buttons and 2 small buttons. Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

Preparation Trace pieces 1-6 from pattern sheet. Trace pocket from piece 1 as a separate pattern piece. Cut out all paper pieces. Pleat arrow on piece 2 is marked for size 34. For other sizes, mark pleat arrow according to size lines. Buttonhole on piece 5 is marked for size 34. For other sizes, mark buttonhole according to size lines.

Seam and hem allowances Seams and edges, 5⁄8" (1.5 cm); front slit edges, 1½" (3.5 cm); upper pocket edge, 1½" (3.5 cm); hem, 3⁄8" (1.5 cm)

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown

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and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Chambray: 1 front, cut 2 1 pocket, cut 1 2 back, cut 1 on fold 3 yoke, cut 2 on fold 4 sleeve, cut 2 5 collar, cut 2 on fold 6 collar stand, cut 2 on fold a) 2 sleeve bands: size 34: 127⁄8" (32.5 cm); size 36: 13¼" (33.5 cm); size 38: 135⁄8" (34.5 cm); size 40: 14" (35.5 cm); size 42: 143⁄8" (36.5 cm); size 44: 14¾" (37.5 cm) long; and 4½" (11 cm) wide, excluding seam allowances b) 2 bias binding strips for sleeve vents, 6¾" (17 cm) long, and 15⁄8" (4 cm) wide, including seam allowances Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.

Construction ■ Stitch center front seam below slit mark. Press seam allowances open and press slit edges to inside. On slit edges, turn edges of seam allowances under and stitch in place as marked. ■ Fold pleats in upper back edge in direction of arrows and baste. ■ Yoke: Pin one yoke to outer side of upper back edge and pin second yoke to wrong side of upper back edge. Stitch yokes in place and press up. Stitch outer yoke to upper edges of front. Press seam allowances toward yoke. Turn edges of inside yoke under and baste to attachment seams. Baste open yoke edges together. Topstitch yoke close to seams. ■ Collar with collar stand: With right sides together, stitch collar pieces together along outer edges, beginning at seam number 3. Trim seam allowances. Turn collar right-side out and press. Stitch one buttonhole for smaller button at each collar corner. Lay collar stand pieces right sides together with collar in between. Stitch along front and upper collar stand edges, beginning and ending in front, exactly at attachment edge seamline. Trim seam allowances. Turn collar stand right-side out. Stitch outer collar stand piece to blouse neck edge. Press seam allowances toward collar stand. Turn inside collar stand edge under and baste to attachment seam. Topstitch collar stand close to all edges. ■ Patch pocket: Press hem allowance on upper pocket edge to inside and stitch 1" (2.5 cm) from folded edge. Press seam allowances on side and lower pocket edges to inside. Edgestitch pocket in place on left blouse front.

■ Stitch side seams. Trim seam allowances to ¼" (6 mm), neaten edges together, and press toward back. ■ Slash sleeve vents as marked. Spread cut edges apart to a straight line and stitch to one long edge of binding strip, as narrowly as possible. Press binding strip over attachment seam into vent, then fold to a width of ¼" (6 mm), turn in, and sew to attachment seam. On inside upper end of vent, stitch diagonally across binding. On front vent edges, turn binding to inside and baste to lower edge. ■ Stitch sleeve seams. ■ Stitch sleeve bands to lower sleeve edges. Press attachment seam allowances and other long edges toward sleeve bands. Fold sleeve bands half to outside and stitch across ends. Turn right-side out and baste inside edges to attachment seams. Topstitch sleeve bands close to attachment seams. In front end of each sleeve band, stitch a buttonhole for larger button, 3⁄8" (1 cm) from end of sleeve band and ¾" (2 cm) above lower edge. ■ Set in sleeves. ■ Press hem allowance to inside, turn in edges, and stitch in place.

106-

022015-US A-Line Skirt with Pleated Yoke 

22 front skirt, cut 1 on fold 23 back yoke, cut 2 24 back skirt, cut 1 on fold a) 2 pleat pieces (yoke), each 15¾" (40 cm) wide, and 23¾" (60 cm) long Lining: 21 front yoke, cut 2 23 back yoke, cut 2 Fusible stay tape: Fuse the stay tape to the wrong side of the yoke lining upper edges 3⁄8" (1 cm) from edge.

Green pattern line, sheets D1-D2 Pattern pieces 21 to 24 Size 34 AAAAA Size 36 === Size 38 CCC Size 40 67 67 Size 42 EEEEE

PATTERN AVAILABLE ON INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42 on page 27 Finished skirt length: 25¼" (64 cm)

Cutting layouts

Materials

Sizes 34-42

Metallic jacquard, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: 2¼ yds (2 m) for all sizes Lining, 54" (137 cm) wide: ½ yd (.4 m) Notion: Fusible bias stay tape, 1 invisible zipper, 9" (22 cm) long Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

Preparation

Metallic jacquard, 60" (152.5 cm) wide Fold

Selvedges

Lining, 54" (137 cm) wide Fold Cut from a double layer of fabric, right sides together.

Trace pieces 21-24 from pattern sheet. Cut out all paper pieces.

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Metallic jacquard: 21 front yoke, cut 2

Selvedges

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Construction ■ Pleats: On pleat pieces (a), chalk-mark placement lines and fold lines for pleats along one 23¾" (60 cm) long edge. Handbaste pleat lines to make these lines visible on right side. Mark lowest placement line 5 ⁄8" (1.5 cm) from edge; mark fold line 2½" (6 cm) from placement line; mark next placement line 1¼" (3 cm) from preceding line; mark fold line 2½" (6 cm) from placement line, etc. along height of piece. Fold fabric on bottom fold line, wrong sides together. Baste fold, then baste fold edge to bottom placement line. Fold fabric on second fold line, baste fold, and baste to second placement line, etc. Press pleat pieces. Repeat for both pleat pieces. ■ Pin pattern piece for front yoke to pleated fabric right side–once with printed side facing up, once with printed side facing down, aligning pleat locations and with attachment edge of yoke on bottom pleat fold. Cut out. ■ Lay pleated pieces on corresponding yoke pieces, with wrong side facing right side, and baste together along all edges. With right sides together, lay yoke pieces together and pin center front seam. Stitch, ending exactly at marked yoke attachment line. Press seam allowances open. ■ Stitch darts in back yokes and press toward center. ■ On back yoke, sew invisible zipper in place at opening edges (see instructions on page 66) and stitch center seam. ■ Fold pleats in skirts in direction of arrows and press. Baste pleats to upper edge. ■ Stitch yoke front to skirt front and stitch yoke back to skirt back, clipping seam allowance of skirt back into corner. Leave lower front yoke pleat fold free. Press seam allowances up. ■ Stitch side seams (seam number 3). ■ Yoke lining: Stitch center front lining seam; center back seam below opening mark, darts, and side seams. With right sides together, pin yoke lining to upper skirt edge. At opening edges, fold seam allowances to outside 3⁄16" (5 mm) before marked seamline, and pin. Fold seam allowances at skirt opening edges to outside, together with zipper, and pin to upper edge of skirt, over lining. Stitch skirt upper edge. Trim seam, turn lining up and understitch, close to attachment seam. Fold yoke lining and seam allowances to inside. Turn yoke lining edges under and hand-stitch to zipper tape and skirt attachment seam. ■ Press hem allowance to inside and handstitch in place.

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106.1-

022015-US X-Wrap Dress  PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1oi4Vbk

Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 on page 58 Finished length from waist: 21" (53 cm)

Materials Washed silk, 54" (137 cm) wide: 25⁄8 yds (2.35 m) for all sizes Interfacing Notions: Fusible bias stay tape; 1 invisible zipper, 16" (40 cm) long Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

Preparation

Clip seam allowances between stitching lines, close to points. Trim seams to ¼" (6 mm). Neaten seam allowances at side edges (below seam number 2). Turn shawl pieces right-side out. Pin open edges together 2" (5 cm) beginning at seam end. Press shawl edges. Press seam allowances of front toward side edges below seam number2 (4). ■ Baste shawl pieces to neck edge, center seam: With right sides together, baste left shawl piece to right neck edge, from seam mark (at seam number 1) 2" (5 cm). Baste right shawl piece to left neck edge 2" (5 cm) from seam mark (5). Fold shawl ends (center back) right sides together and stitch (6). Press seam allowances open. Fold shawl pieces on fold line and baste open edges together (7). ■ Stitch shoulder seams. With right sides together, baste shawl piece to neck edge (8). ■ Stitch facing shoulder seams and neaten facing lower edge. Stitch facing to neck edge, over shawl (9). Turn facing up and understitch as far as possible. Turn facing to

Trace pieces 21-25 from pattern sheet. Trace pocket piece from piece 21 as a separate pattern piece. Cut out all paper pieces.

1

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Washed silk: 21 front with shawl collar, cut 1 on fold 21 pocket, cut 4 22 back, cut 1 on fold 23 sleeve, cut 4 24 front neck facing, cut 1 on fold 25 back neck facing, cut 1 on fold Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout. Fuse ¾" (2 cm) squares to wrong side at front inner shawl points. Fuse bias stay tape to armhole and zipper opening edges.

2

3

Construction ■ Stitch back darts and press toward center. ■ Front, shawl collar pieces: On front piece, fold seam allowance at point of neck edge (center front) down and press. Clip seam allowances of bottom points between marked stitching lines to 2" (5 cm) before ends (1). With right sides together, fold cut-on shawl on fold line. Pin shawl pieces together from marking (seam number 1) to bottom point. Pin front edges together from bottom point to pressed-under seam allowance at marked neck edge (2). Turn front back at seam and pin in place (3). Fold second shawl piece the same and stitch seams.

4

5

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6

7

107-

022015-US Slim Ladies’ Jacket  PATTERN AVAILABLE ON INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 on page 26 Finished back length: 26½" (67 cm) 7 ⁄8-sleeves: 22½" (57 cm) long

8

9

inside. Press edge. Hand-stitch inside facing edge to seam allowances. ■ Stitch right side seam, leaving pocket opening free. ■ Right in-seam pocket: Pin pocket right sides together with seam allowances of pocket opening edges and stitch directly along marked seamlines. Press pocket pieces toward front and stitch together. ■ Left in-seam pocket: Pin one pocket piece right sides together with left pocket front opening edge. Stitch pocket piece between markings, stitching up at an angle at upper marking and stitching down at an angle at lower marking, toward seam allowance edge. Clip seam allowances into corners. Turn pocket piece to inside. Press pocket opening edges. Lay other pocket piece right sides together with stitched pocket piece. Seam allowance of pocket piece extends at pocket opening edge ■ Sew invisible zipper to left side seam between markings (see instructions on page 66). Stitch remainder of seam above and below zipper. ■ Stitch left pocket piece edges together. ■ Stitch sleeve seams. Press seams open. With right sides together, pin two sleeves together and stitch lower edges. Trim seam allowances, press open. Turn sleeves right-side out and press edges. Baste open edges together. ■ Set in sleeves. Trim seam allowances to 3 ⁄8" (1 cm) and press toward sleeves in sleeve cap only. ■ Press hem allowance to inside, neaten edges, and hand-stitch in place.

Materials Stretch jacquard, 54" (137 cm) wide: sizes 36, 38, 40: 2¼ yds (2.05 m); sizes 42, 44: 23⁄8 yds (2.1 m) Stretch lining, 54" (137 cm) wide: 15⁄8 yds (1.4 m) for all sizes Interfacing Notions: Lightweight shoulder pads; 3 large sew-on snap fasteners Note: To make both jacket style 107022015-US and skirt style 109-022015-US, you will need: sizes 36, 38: 33⁄8 yds (3 m); sizes 40, 42, 44: 3½ yds (3.1 m) of 54" (137 cm) wide stretch jacquard, and 25⁄8 yds (2.25 m) of 54" (137 cm) wide lining. Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

Preparation

Red pattern line, sheets D1-D2, Pattern pieces 1 to 10 Size 36 3333 Size 38 4444 Size 40 55 Size 42 6666 Size 44 7777

Cutting layouts Jacquard, 54" (137 cm) wide Fold

Trace pieces 1-10 from pattern sheet. Trace facing from piece 1 as a separate pattern piece. Cut out all paper pieces.

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Jacquard: 1 center front, cut 2 1 front facing, cut 2 2 side front, cut 2 3 center back, cut 2 4 side back, cut 2 5 upper sleeve, cut 2 6 under sleeve, cut 2 7 collar, cut 2 on fold 8 collar stand, cut 2 on fold 9 pocket, cut 2 10 back facing, cut 1 on fold Lining: 1 center front, cut 2, minus front facing width 2 side front, cut 2 3 center back, minus neck facing width and with ¾" (2 cm) center back ease pleat 4 side back, cut 2

Selvedges

Lining, 54" (137 cm) wide Fold

Cut from a double layer of fabric, right sides together.

Selvedges

5 upper sleeve, cut 2 6 under sleeve, cut 2 9 pocket, cut 2, minus width of facing Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout. Also interface back and sleeve hem allowances.

Construction ■ Stitch center back seam, leaving vent area open. Press seam allowances of center seam open and press left vent facing to inside. Turn

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right vent underlap toward left back and press seam allowance of right back under above vent, tapering as you go to avoid needing to clip it. On right back, press seam allowance on long underlap edge to inside. At top of vent, topstitch left center back at an angle as marked, catching underlap. ■ Stitch front and back section seams. Stitch shoulder seams and side seams. Stitch facing shoulder seams. Press seam allowances open. ■ Patch pockets: Stitch each pocket lining piece to self-facing of pocket, leaving 2" (5 cm) open for turning. Turn facings and lining to outside and stitch to pocket edges. Trim seam allowances. Turn pockets rightside out and press. Sew seam openings closed. Pin pockets to fronts at placement lines. Sew side and lower pocket edges in place invisibly by hand. ■ Notched collar and front edges: With right sides together, pin facing to jacket. Pin lapel fold lines together. Build a little extra fullness into lapel corners. Stitch facing to lapel edges, from seam mark, and to front edges and hem edge. On hem edge, leave last 1¼" (3 cm) before facing ends open. Leave facing lying on jacket, right sides together, for time being. Stitch collar stand pieces to collar pieces. Trim seam allowances and press open. Topstitch close to each side of seams. Stitch collar pieces together on outer edges, building a little extra fullness into top collar and beginning and ending on narrow edges, exactly at seamline of attachment edge. Turn collar right-side out. Lay collar between jacket and facing. Stitch undercollar to jacket neck edge from each seam mark to corner. Clip seam allowances of fronts into corners. Stitch long edge of undercollar to neck edge of jacket. Stitch top collar to facing, clipping facing seam allowances into corners. Press collar attachment seam allowances open. Turn facing to inside. Pin collar attachment seams together exactly. Turn back facing up and stitch seam allowances together, close to collar attachment seam. Lay facing down. ■ At hem edge, open back vent facing again. Press hem allowance to inside, then turn down again. ■ Stitch sleeve seams. Press sleeve hem allowances to inside and hand-stitch in place. ■ Set in sleeves, easing sleeve caps. Try on jacket and sew shoulder pads in place. ■ Sew lining: On lining backs, stitch center seam allowances together above vent, stitching 3⁄8" (1 cm) from edge. For ease pleat, stitch along center back at top and bottom (above vent), each 2" (5 cm), and baste in between. Press pleat toward right

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back. Stitch remaining lining seams. Set in sleeve linings. ■ Line jacket, hem: Stitch lining to inside facing edges, turning hem allowances of facings down to do so. Lay lining inside jacket, with wrong sides facing, pulling linings into sleeves. At back vent, turn lining edge under at underlap edge of right back and pin. Trim other lining edge to 3⁄8" (1 cm) before hemmed underlap edge. Clip 3⁄8" (1 cm) diagonally into top corner. Turn lining edge under and pin to left back vent facing. At top of vent, turn lining edge under and pin to underlap. Turn lining under and hand-stitch to back vent allowances. Turn hem allowance to inside and hand-stitch in place. Turn in lining along hem edge, press folded edge lightly, and push up in a shallow curve. Pin to jacket hem allowance. Hand-stitch facings and lining in place. Lay extra length of lining down and press lightly. Turn edge of each sleeve lining under and hand-stitch to hem allowance. Lay extra length down and press. ■ Cover snap fastener halves with fabric (see instructions on page 69). Sew upper snap halves to right front facing as marked, taking even stitches and exiting needle on right side of fabric. Sew lower snap halves to left front as marked.

107A-

022015-US Evening Jumpsuit  PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1ttR8xT

Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 on page 55 Finished side length from waist: 41½" (105 cm) Leg hem circumference: 13" (33 cm)

Materials Crêpe, 54" (137 cm) wide: sizes 36, 38: 33⁄8 yds (3 m); sizes 40, 42, 44: 35⁄8 yds (3.25 m) white; ½ yd (.4 m) gray for neckline insert Lining scrap, to cover snaps Interfacing Notions: 1 zipper, sizes 36, 38, 40: 7" (18 cm); sizes 42, 44: 8" (20 cm) long; 4 large sew-on snap fasteners; 6 small sew-on snap fasteners Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

Preparation Trace pieces 1-13 from pattern sheet. Lengthen pieces 8 and 11 as indicated. Cut out all paper pieces. Stitching line at zipper opening is marked for size 36. Remark stitching line for sizes 38 – 44 same distance from center front as for size 36, noting opening length.

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Crêpe: 1 front with cut-on back yoke, cut 2 2 back, cut 2 3 front sleeve, cut 2 4 back sleeve, cut 2 5 collar, cut 2 on fold 6 front facing, cut 2 7 back facing, cut 1 on fold 8 front trouser, cut 2 9 large pocket, cut 2 10 small pocket, cut 2 11 back trouser, cut 2 12 waistband, cut 2 13 front insert, cut 1 on fold a) left underlap: sizes 36, 38, 40: 7½" (19 cm); sizes 42, 44: 83⁄8" (21 cm) long; and 3" (7 cm) wide, excluding seam allowances Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout. Also interface sleeve hem allowances.

Construction ■ Stitch center back seam and back darts. Stitch lower front darts. Press seam allowances open, press darts toward center. Stitch front cut-on back yokes to back. Press seam allowances toward yokes. ■ Stitch facing shoulder seams. Press seam allowances open. ■ Notched collar: Pin facing right sides together with bodice. Build a little extra fullness into lapel corners. Stitch from marking along lapel edges and along front edges, first leaving seam open at bottom 6" (15 cm) long. Leave facing lying right sides together with bodice. Clip front lapel darts open along middle 2" (5 cm) long. Stitch collar pieces together along outer edges, building a little extra fullness into top collar. Turn collar right-side out. Lay collar between upper garment and facing. Stitch undercollar to front neck edge from marking to each corner. Press seam allowances open. Stitch undercollar to neck edge from center back to each side, and continue to stitch darts. Press seam allowances of collar joining seam open,

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project instructions

press darts flat. Stitch top collar to facing, clipping seam allowances into corners. Press seam allowances open. Turn facing to inside. Pin collar joining seams together exactly. Lay back facing up and understitch close to attachment seam. Lay facing down. ■ Stitch bodice side seams. Stitch underneath sleeve seams (seam number 6). ■ Miter sleeve corners: Lay vent facing on front sleeves and hem allowance outward to stitch corner at an angle (mitered corner). Trim seam allowances of mitering seam to 3⁄16" (5 mm) and press open. Lay facing at vent underlap of back sleeve outward on fold line and stitch along hem line. Turn hem allowances and vent facings to inside. Hand-stitch sleeve hem allowances in place. Topstitch vent underlap edges. ■ Stitch back sleeve seams above vent mark. Press seam allowances toward front sleeves. Topstitch sleeve vents at an angle as marked, catching underlap. ■ Set in sleeves. ■ Stretch seam edges: Lay back trouser pieces right sides together. Stretch inside leg edges above marking by pressing with a steam iron or under a damp cloth until they are as long as on front trouser pieces. ■ Stitch back darts and press toward center. ■ Fold front trouser pieces lengthwise with wrong sides together and press creases. Work from inside to stitch front pleat on front trouser pieces from upper edge 1" (2.5 cm) long. Press pleat in arrow direction; baste at upper edge. ■ Trouser pockets: Pin pockets right sides together with pocket opening edges (seam numbers 8 and 9), stitch from upper edges to marking. Clip seam allowances of trouser pieces at an angle toward bottom seam end. Fold pockets up at bottom seam ends and pin. Stitch darts below pocket openings. Remove pins. Press seam allowances of pocket joining seams open, press darts forward. Fold trouser pieces right sides together and pin pocket piece joining seams together. Stitch marked pleat fold next to this along placement line as far as marking. Stitch smaller pocket piece to larger pocket. Unfold front trouser pieces. Lay pocket pieces toward front trouser edges, baste at upper and front trousers edge, after cutting off right pocket piece allowance along center front. ■ Stitch trouser side seams and inside leg seams. Stitch center front seam from opening mark to inside leg seam. ■ Zipper: Press self-facings to inside at opening edges. Stitch right along center front, and left ¼" (6 mm) before center

front. Topstitch close to right opening edge. Stitch zipper under left opening edge (underlap), stitching close to teeth. Pin opening closed matching centers. Stitch loose zipper tape to right facing, leaving trouser free. Baste facing. Topstitch opening from upper edge to 1¼" (3 cm) before end as marked. With right sides together, fold underlap piece lengthwise and stitch across lower end. Turn right-side out. Lay underlap under left opening edge, pin at opening facing. Stitch facing to underlap close to zipper joining seam. Lay opening closed again and topstitch to end, catching underlap. ■ Stitch center back seam. Press seam allowances open from upper edges to beginning of curve. Do not press seam allowances flat along curve. ■ Stitch center back waistband seam. Press seam allowances open. With wrong sides together, fold waistband on fold line and press. Baste waistband edges together and baste to lower edge of bodice. Baste front waistband ends, not catching facings. Pin bodice with waistband right sides together to upper trousers edge and opening facing, leave remaining bodice edge extending at zipper opening. Stitch. Lay front facings right sides together with fronts again, pin remaining front edges together. Pin lower facing edges as far as zipper opening and underlap edge to lower waistband edge. Stitch. Trim seam allowances, trimming corners diagonally. Clip seam allowances at opening edge and underlap. Turn facings to inside again. Lay bodice and waistband up. Press seam allowances down. ■ Front insert: Press 15⁄8" (4 cm) hem allowance at upper insert edge to inside and hand-stitch in place. Press left side and lower edge seam allowances to inside, turn in to a width of 3⁄8" (1 cm) and stitch. Stitch insert right side to inside edge of right front facing between markings. Fasten left insert side edge to left front facing with small snap. Turn in remaining lower facing edges and hand-stitch to seams. ■ Cover large snap fasteners with lining (see instructions on page 69). Sew halves of snap fasteners each to waistband, spaced 3 ⁄8" (1 cm) from ends; sew matching halves on opposite half to match. Sew a top half of a snap fastener each to front sleeve vent edges, sew bottom halves of snaps on underlap to match. When sewing on snaps, do not exit needle on right fabric side. ■ Press hem allowances of trousers to inside and hand-stitch in place. ■ Press creases in back trouser pieces. Press creases in front hem.

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022015-US Cap Sleeve Dress with Faux Top  PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1ohTYGN

Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 on page 33 Finished length from waist: 23¾" (60 cm)

Materials Cotton stretch satin, 60" (152.5 cm) wide with pattern repeat of 16" (40 cm): 33⁄8 yds (3 m) for all sizes or fabric with no pattern repeat, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: 1¾ yds (1.6 m) Interfacing Notions: Fusible bias stay tape; 1 invisible zipper 24" (60 cm) long Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

Preparation Trace pieces 1-10 from pattern sheet. Trace facing from pieces 1 and 2 as separate pattern pieces. Cut out all paper pieces.

Seam and hem allowances Seam and edges, 5⁄8" (1.5 cm); hem, 15⁄8" (4 cm); sleeve hems, ¾" (2 cm)

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Match fabric patterning if needed. Cut the following numbered pieces: Cotton satin: 1 center front with integrated peplum, cut 2 1 center front peplum facing, cut 2 2 side front with integrated peplum, cut 2 2 side front peplum facing, cut 2 3 center front skirt, cut 1 on fold 4 side front skirt, cut 2 5 center back, cut 2 6 side back, cut 2 7 sleeve front, cut 2 8 sleeve back, cut 2 9 front neck facing, cut 2 10 back neck facing, cut 2 a) 2 bias facing strips for armhole edges, each 8" (20 cm) long, and 15⁄8" (4 cm) wide Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout. Fuse interfacing to wrong side of neck facing pieces.

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Fuse bias stay tape to wrong side of armhole and sleeve attachment edges.

Construction ■ Stitch side fronts to center fronts. Stitch side front peplum facings to center front peplum facings. Press seam allowances open. ■ Neck and peplum edges, center front seam: With right sides together, lay peplum facings on front piece lower edges. Stitch together lower and front edges as continuous seams, up to seam marks. Lay each front neck facing on neck edge, right sides together. Beginning at seam mark, pin together along front edge, then continue pinning neck edges together, up to armhole edges. Stitch. Trim seam allowances. Turn neck facings to inside. With right sides together, stitch center front seam between seam marks. ■ Stitch center front seam on peplum facing and neck facing. Unfold front – the facings lie right sides together with front again. Press allowances open. On peplum, trim seam allowances on facing attachment edge. Turn peplum facing to inside. Press edges. ■ On front skirts, stitch section seams. Press seams open. ■ Horizontal seam: With right sides together, lay skirt front on peplum facing. Stitch marked seamlines on upper skirt edge and facing together, leaving fronts free. Neaten seam allowances together. Loosely hand-stitch upper skirt edge to seam allowances of center front seam and section seams. Baste side edges of skirt and peplum together. ■ Back section seams: With right sides together, lay side back pieces on center back pieces. Pin section seams (seam number 3). Stitch. Press seam allowances open. ■ Invisible zipper and center back seam: Insert invisible zipper in center back opening edges (see instructions on page 66). Stitch center back seam from the lower edge to zipper. Press seam allowances open and neaten edge of seam allowances. ■ Stitch side seams. Press seam allowances open. ■ Sew top sleeve seams (seam number 7). Press seam allowances open. ■ With wrong sides together, fold bias strips for sleeve neck edges of sleeves in half lengthwise and press. Pin folded bias strips to sleeve neck edges so that folded edge of each strip lies on garment piece, 3 ⁄8" (1 cm) past seamline. Stitch along seamlines. Trim seam allowances. Turn bias strips to inside. Press. Hand-stitch folded edge in place.

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■ Attach sleeves, armhole edges: At each armhole edge, turn front neck facing up again. Stitch sleeves to front and back (seam numbers 8 and 9). With wrong sides together, fold bias strips for armhole edges in half lengthwise and press. Pin folded bias strips to armhole edges so that folded edge of each strip lies on garment piece 3⁄8" (1 cm) past seamline and strip ends lie on facings. Stitch along marked armhole edges. Trim seam allowances on sleeve and bias attachment seam to 3⁄8" (1 cm). Press seam allowances away from sleeves. Turn bias strips and facings to inside. Hand-stitch folded edges of bias strips in place. Below sleeves, topstitch ¼" (6 mm) from armhole edges. ■ Finish neck edge: Stitch shoulder seams on back and front neck facings. With right sides together, pin back facings to back neck edges. At zipper opening, turn facings back, 3⁄16" (5 mm) before opening edge, and pin to neck edge. Turn seam allowances on back opening edges to outside and pin to neck edge, over facings. Stitch along neck edge. Turn facings to inside, understitch, and hand-stitch to zipper tapes and sleeve seam allowances. ■ Press hem allowance to inside and handstitch in place.

108.1-

022015-US Wings Dress  PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1mdOOgk

Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 on page 58 Finished center front length from waist: 20½" (52 cm)

Materials Piqué, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: sizes 36, 38, 40: 1¾ yds (1.5 m); sizes 42, 44: 17⁄8 yds (1.7 m) Lining, 54" (137 cm) wide: 11⁄8 yds (1 m) for all sizes Notions: Fusible bias stay tape; invisible zipper, 24" (60 cm) long Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

Preparation Trace pieces 21-30 from pattern sheet. Trace facing and pocket piece from piece 28

as a separate pattern piece. Cut out all paper pieces.

Seam and hem allowances Seams and edges, 5⁄8" (1.5 cm); hem, 1¼" (3 cm); lining, 5⁄8" (1.5 cm)

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Piqué: 21 center front, cut 1 on fold 22 side front, cut 2 23 front yoke, cut 2 on fold 24 center back, cut 2 25 side back, cut 2 26 back yoke, cut 4 27 front skirt, cut 1 on fold 28 front overskirt, cut 2 28 facing, cut 2 28 pocket, cut 2 29 center back skirt, cut 2 30 side back skirt, cut 2 Lining: 21 center front, cut 1 on fold 22 side front, cut 2 24 center back, cut 2 25 side back, cut 2 27 front skirt, cut 1 on fold 29 center back skirt, cut 2 30 side back skirt, cut 2 Fusible bias stay tape: Fuse to outer yoke neck edges.

Construction ■ Stitch bust darts, press darts up. Stitch front and back bodice section seams. Press seam allowances in front toward side pieces, press seam allowances in back toward center pieces. ■ Stitch outer front yoke to front, stitch outer back yokes to back pieces. Press seam allowances toward yokes. ■ Stitch bodice side seams. Press seam allowances toward back. ■ Stitch darts in front skirt, press darts toward center. Press front skirt hem allowance to inside and loosely hand-stitch in place. Stitch section seams on back skirt. Press seam allowances toward center. ■ Clip side seam allowance on overskirt panels diagonally toward pocket opening ends. Press seam allowance at pocket opening edges to inside. Topstitch pocket opening edges 3⁄8" (1 cm) from fold. Baste pocket pieces on underside of overskirt panels, seam allowance extending at pocket opening edge. Stitch pocket pieces from right side as marked. Stitch across bottom of each pocket opening to line of stitching.

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■ With right sides together, pin facings to overskirt panels. Stitch along hem edges and front edges. Trim seam allowances. Turn facings to inside, press edges. Topstitch edges ¾" (2 cm) from fold. ■ Lay overskirt panels on front skirt with wrong side facing right side, baste side seam and upper edges. ■ Lay back skirt panels right sides together with front skirt/overskirt panels, pin at side seam edges. Lay hem allowance of back skirt panels up and pin at side seam edges, over front skirt. Stitch side seams. Turn back hem allowances to inside. Press side seam allowances toward back. ■ Stitch skirt to bodice. Press seam allowances up. ■ Sew invisible zipper to back opening edges (see instructions on page 66). Stitch center back seam from lower edges to zipper. Press seam allowances open. Topstitch back hem edge. ■ Stitch lining darts and seams. Leave lower side skirt lining seams open 4" (10 cm), noting back pieces are longer than front. Stitch inside yokes to front and back lining pieces. Press seam allowances toward yokes. ■ Neck and armhole edges, shoulder seams: Press inside yoke shoulder seam allowances to wrong side. Pin yokes and lining right sides together with front and back dress pieces. Turn yokes at zipper opening back 3⁄16" (5 mm) before marked seamline, pin at neck edge. Lay dress seam allowances at opening edges outward, pin in place over yokes. Stitch along neck and armhole edges. Trim seam allowances. Turn opening edge, yoke and lining seam allowances to inside. Stitch shoulder seams of outer yoke pieces, leaving inside pieces free. Press seam allowances open and slip underneath inside pieces. Hand-stitch shoulder edges together on inside. Turn in inside yokes and lining and sew to zipper tapes. ■ Turn in lining hem allowance and stitch so that lining is ¾" (2 cm) shorter than main fabric. Stitch remaining open side seams. Press side seam allowances toward back. On extending side edges of back skirt panel, stitch pressed-under edges in place. Sew back skirt lining hem corners to dress hem with a French tack.

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022015-US Pencil Skirt with Zip Fly  PATTERN AVAILABLE ON INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 on page 26 Finished skirt length: 23¾" (60 cm) Upper waistband edge sits at natural waistline

Materials Stretch jacquard, 54" (137 cm) wide: 11⁄8 yds (1 m) for all sizes Stretch lining, 54" (135 cm) wide: 1 yd (.9 m) for all sizes Interfacing Notions: 1 zipper, 6" (15 cm) long; 1 sewon skirt hook set Note: See style 107-022015-US for the total fabric required to make both skirt style 109022015-US and jacket style 107-022015-US. Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

Preparation Trace pieces 1-4 from pattern sheet. Trace pocket from piece 1 as a separate pattern piece. Cut out all paper pieces. Stitching line at zipper opening is marked for size 34. For sizes 36 – 44, mark stitching line same distance from center front as for size 34. Front skirt lining: On paper pattern piece for hip yoke (2), cut off pocket piece along placement line. Tape lower edge of hip yoke to front skirt panel. This will create a space at the top which will be marked and folded later as a pleat.

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Jacquard: 1 front skirt, cut 2 2 side hip yoke with integrated pocket, cut 2 3 back skirt, cut 2 4 back yoke, cut 2 a) waistband, with 1¼" (3 cm) underlap: size 34: 29¼" (74 cm); size 36: 30¾" (78 cm); size 38: 32½" (82 cm); size 40: 34" (86 cm); size 42: 35½" (90 cm); size 44: 37" (94 cm) long; and 2" (5 cm) wide, excluding seam allowances b) left underlap piece, 63⁄8" (16 cm) long, and 2" (5 cm) wide, excluding seam allowances

Lining: 1 and 2, placed together and without slit allowance 1 pocket, cut 2 3 back skirt, cut 2 4 back yoke, cut 2 Interfacing: Cut from shaded area on cutting layout. Construction ■ Hip yoke pockets: With right sides together, stitch pockets to pocket opening edges of front skirt pieces. Trim seam allowances. Turn pockets to inside. Topstitch close to pocket opening edges. Pin pocket opening edges to side hip yokes at placement lines. Stitch pocket pieces together. Baste pockets to wrong sides of

Black pattern line, sheets C1-C2 Pattern pieces 1 to 4 Size 34 2222 Size 36 3333 Size 38 4444 Size 40 55 Size 42 6666 Size 44 7777

Cutting layouts

NZ_BS1402_109-2T

Jacquard, 54" (137 cm) wide Fold

Selvedges

Lining, 54" (137 cm) wide Fold

Selvedges Cut from a double layer of fabric, right sides together.

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skirt front, first trimming away allowance of right pocket, along center front. ■ Stitch back yokes to back skirts. Topstitch yokes close to seams. Stitch center back seam. Press seam allowances open. ■ Zipper: Stitch center front seam below opening mark. Press opening self-facing edges to inside. Stitch along center front on right and 3⁄16" (5 mm) before center front on left. Topstitch close to right opening edge. Stitch zipper under left opening edge (underlap) close to teeth. Pin opening closed, matching centers. Stitch loose zipper tape to right facing, leaving skirt free. Baste facing in place. Topstitch opening from upper edge to 1¼" (3 cm) before end, as marked. With right sides together, fold underlap piece lengthwise and stitch across bottom end. Turn right-side out. Lay underlap under left opening edge and pin to facing. Stitch facing to underlap, close to zipper attachment seam. Lay opening closed again and topstitch to the end, catching underlap. ■ Stitch side seams. Press seam allowances open. ■ Stitch lining seams, leaving opening for zipper, ¾" (2 cm) longer than on skirt. ■ With wrong sides together, pull lining inside skirt and pin to upper edge of back skirt, matching side seams. Pin front lining panels in place, folding pleats. On lining opening edges, turn edges under and press so that lining meets zipper tape on right and underlap attachment seam on left. Trim pressed-under lining right opening edge to 5 ⁄8" (1.5 cm). Neaten both opening edges. Baste lining to upper skirt edge. ■ Waistband: Stitch waistband to upper skirt edge, stitching waistband underlap to underlap of opening edge. Press attachment seam allowances and of other long waistband edge toward waistband. With right sides together, fold waistband lengthwise and stitch across front ends. Turn waistband rightside out and pin inside edge in place over attachment seam. Topstitch waistband close to all edges. Sew on skirt hook and bar fastener in a comfortable place. ■ Press hem allowance to inside and handstitch in place. Hem lining ¾" (2 cm) shorter than skirt.

109.1-

Notions: Pre-folded bias tape, ¾" (2 cm) wide: 3½ yds (3.2 m)

022015-US Knit V-Neck Pullover 

Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information

PATTERN AVAILABLE ON INSERT SHEET

Preparation

Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 on page 59 Finished back length: 23" (58 cm)

Trace pieces 1 and 2 from pattern sheet. Cut out all paper pieces.

Materials

Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Knit fabric: 1 front, cut 1 on fold 2 back, cut 1 on fold

Knit fabric, 54" (137 cm) wide: sizes 34, 36: 1 yd (.9 m); size 38 11⁄8 yd (.95 m); sizes 40, 42, 44: 15⁄8 yds (1.4 m)

Cutting

Construction

Black pattern line, sheets B1-B2 Pattern pieces 1 and 2 Size 34 2222 Size 36 3333 Size 38 4444 Size 40 55 Size 42 6666 Size 44 7777

NZ_BS1404_109-1T Cutting layouts

Knit, 54" (137 cm) wide Sizes 34 – 38 Selvedge

109ACut right sides together on a double layer of fabric, right side up on a single layer.

Selvedge

Sizes 40 – 44 Fold

■ Stitch right shoulder seam. Press seam allowances open. ■ Neck edge: Unfold pre-folded bias tape and press flat, then press bias in half lengthwise. Working from right side, stitch folded bias tape to neck edge so that folded tape edge lies on garment piece 3⁄8" (1 cm) past seamline. Trim seam allowances. Lay bias tape up and understitch close to seam. Turn bias tape to inside. Hand-stitch inside edge of bias tape in place. ■ Stitch left shoulder seam. Hand-stitch seam allowance ends to neck edge. ■ Stitch bias tape to armhole edges as described for neck edge, but do not turn to inside. Stitch side seams through extended bias tape. Press seam allowances open. Turn bias tape to inside at armhole edges and hand-stitch in place. Hand-stitch lower seam allowance ends to hem edge. ■ Finish lower edge as described for neck edge, overlapping bias tape ends at joining.

022015-US Lace Dress with Faux Top  PATTERN AVAILABLE ON INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 on page 49 Finished length from waist: 24½" (62 cm)

Materials

Selvedges

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Cotton lace fabric with one scalloped edge, 36" (91.5 cm) wide: 25⁄8 yds (2.4 m) for all sizes Silk dupioni, 60" (152.5 cm) wide (backing): 15⁄8 yds (1.35 m) for all sizes

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Interfacing Notion: 1 invisible zipper, 24" (60 cm) long Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

including seam allowances c) 2 bias strips for armhole edges: 8" (20 cm) long, and 15⁄8" (4 cm) wide, including seam allowances Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.

Preparation

Construction

Trace pieces 1-8, 11, and 12 from pattern sheet. Trace peplum facings from pieces 1 and 2 as separate pattern pieces. Cut out all paper pieces.

■ With wrong side facing right sides, baste lace pieces to corresponding silk pieces. On skirt panels and on back pieces, lower edges of lace meet marked silk hem line and hem allowances extend.

Seam and hem allowances Seams and edges, 5⁄8" (1.5 cm); silk hem allowance, 15⁄8" (4 cm); no hem allowances on lace pieces

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Lace: 1 center front with peplum, cut 2 2 side front with peplum, cut 2 3 center front skirt, cut 1 on fold 4 side front skirt, cut 2 5 center back, cut 2 6 side back, cut 2 7 sleeve front, cut 2 8 sleeve back, cut 2 Place lower sleeve edges on lace scalloped edge. a) scalloped hem edge strip, 43½" (110 cm) long, and 15⁄8" (4 cm) wide cut from scalloped lace edge Silk dupioni: 1 center front with peplum, cut 2 1 center front peplum facing, cut 2 2 side front with peplum, cut 2 2 side front peplum facing, cut 2 3 center front skirt, cut 1 on fold 4 side front skirt, cut 2 5 center back, cut 2 6 side back, cut 2 11 front neck facing, cut 2 12 back neck facing, cut 2 b) 2 bias strips for sleeve neck edges: 8" (20 cm) long, and 15⁄8" (4 cm) wide,

Cutting layouts

Blue pattern line, sheets A1-A2 Pattern pieces 1 to 8, 11, and 12 Size 36 3333 Size 38 4444 Size 40 55 Size 42 6666 Size 44 7777

Silk dupioni, 60" NZ_BS1403_109T (152.5 cm) wide Fold

Selvedge

Lace, 36" (90 cm) wide Selvedges

Fold

Selvedge Scallops

Scallops

Fold the fabric as shown in the cutting layout—right sides together on a double layer; right side up on a single layer.

■ Stitch side fronts to center fronts. Stitch side front peplum facings to center front peplum facings. Press seam allowances open. ■ Neck and peplum edges, center front seam: With right sides together, lay peplum facings on front piece lower edges. Stitch together lower and front edges as continuous seams, up to seam marks. With right sides together, lay each front neck facing on neck edge. Beginning at seam mark, pin together along front edge, then continue pinning neck edges together, up to armhole edges. Stitch. Trim seam allowances. Turn neck facings to inside. With right sides together, lay center front pieces together. Stitch center front seam between seam marks. ■ Stitch center front seam on peplum facing and neck facing. Unfold front – the facings lie right sides together with front again. Press allowances open. On peplum, trim seam allowances on facing attachment edge. Turn peplum facing to inside. Press edges. ■ On front skirts, stitch section seams. Press seams open. ■ Horizontal seam: With right sides together, lay skirt front on peplum facing. Pin and stitch marked seamlines on upper skirt edge and facing together, leaving fronts free. Neaten seam allowances together. Loosely hand-stitch upper skirt edge to seam allowances of center front seam and section seams. Baste side edges of skirt and peplum together. ■ Back section seams: With right sides together, lay side back pieces on center back pieces. Stitch section seams (seam number 3). Press seam allowances open. ■ Invisible zipper and center back seam: Insert invisible zipper in center back opening edges (see instructions on page 66). Stitch center back seam from lower edge to zipper. Press seam allowances open and neaten edge of seam allowances. ■ With right sides together, pin back facings to back neck edges. At zipper opening, turn facings back, 3⁄16" (5 mm) before opening edge, and pin to neck edge. Turn seam allowances on back opening edges to outside and pin to neck edge, over facings. Stitch along neck edge. Turn facings to inside and sew to zipper tapes. ■ Stitch side seams. Press seam allowances open. ■ Sew top sleeve seams as French seams: Lay fabric pieces wrong sides together, stitch seam allowances ¼" (6 mm) from edge. Press seam allowances open. Lay pieces right sides together with seam exactly along fold. Stitch along marked seamline, 3⁄8" (1 cm) from folded edge. Press seam allowances to one side.

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■ With wrong sides together, fold bias strips for sleeve neck edges of sleeves in half lengthwise and press. Pin folded bias strips to sleeve neck edges so folded edge of each strip lies on garment piece, 3⁄8" (1 cm) past seamline. Stitch along seamlines. Trim seam allowances. Turn bias strips to inside. Press. Hand-stitch folded edge in place. ■ Attach sleeves, armhole edges: At each armhole edge, turn neck facing up again. Stitch sleeves to front and back (seam numbers 8 and 9). With right sides together, lay neck facings on front and back. Baste to armhole edges, over sleeves. With wrong sides together, fold bias strips for armhole edges in half lengthwise and press. Pin folded bias strips to armhole edges so folded edge of each strip lies on garment piece 3⁄8" (1 cm) past seamline and strip ends lie on facings. Stitch along marked armhole edges. Trim seam allowances. Turn bias strips and facings to inside. Hand-stitch folded edges of bias strips in place. Sew inside edge of neck facing to center seam. Below sleeves, topstitch ¼" (6 mm) from armhole edges, stitching horizontally to lower sleeve edges. ■ Pin separate strip of scalloped lace to lower dress edge so scallops extend past marked hem line by 3⁄8" (1 cm). Begin at center front with either a whole scallop or a half scallop. Baste scalloped edge in place with long diagonal stitches. Stitch along inside edge of scallops with small zigzag stitches. Carefully trim inside edge of lace strip close to zigzag stitching. Trim lace fabric underneath the scalloped edge close to zigzag stitching. ■ Press silk hem allowance to inside and hand-stitch in place.

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022015-US Dress with Top and Train  PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/11QM7JX

Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 on page 48 Finished length from waist: 44¼" (112 cm) at center front, 54½" (138 cm) at center back

Materials Embroidered organza with two scalloped edges, 45" (114.5 cm) wide: 7 yds (6.4 m) for all sizes Duchesse satin, 60" (152.5 cm) wide, for lining: 43⁄8 yds (4 m) for all sizes 80

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Interfacing Notion: 1 invisible zipper, 24" (60 cm) long Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

Preparation Trace pieces 1, 2, 5-8, and 11-15 from pattern sheet. Lengthen pieces 13 and 15 as indicated. Join the end points on piece 15. For hem curve, measure given length down from center of straight line and mark shallow curve for hem edge. Trace peplum facings from pieces 1 and 2 as separate pattern pieces. Cut out all paper pieces.

Seam and hem allowances Seams and edges, 5⁄8" (1.5 cm); organza hems, 5⁄8" (1.5 cm); satin hems, 1¼" (3 cm); French seams on skirt and sleeves (organza and satin), 3⁄8" (1 cm) wide seam allowances

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Embroidered organza: 1 center front with peplum, cut 1 on fold 2 side front with peplum, cut 2 5 center back, cut 1 on fold 6 side back, cut 2 7 sleeve front, cut 2 8 sleeve back, cut 2 13 front skirt panel, cut 1 on fold 14 center back skirt, cut 2 15 side back skirt, cut 2 a) scalloped hem edge strip: size 36: 170" (430 cm); size 38: 172" (435 cm); size 40: 174" (440 cm); size 42: 176" (445 cm); size 178" (450 cm) long; and 15⁄8" (4 cm) wide from scalloped edge Place neck edges of center front and center back piece on fabric scalloped edge so scallops extend and center front/center back each lie exactly between two scallops. Place upper edges of sleeve front and sleeve back on scalloped edge in same manner. Make sure scallops match at seams. Satin: 1 center front with peplum, cut 2 1 center front peplum facing, cut 2 2 side front with peplum, cut 2 2 side front peplum facing, cut 2 5 center back, cut 1 on fold 6 side back, cut 2 11 front neck facing, cut 2 12 back neck facing, cut 1 on fold 13 front skirt, cut 1 on fold 14 center back skirt, cut 2

15 side back skirt, cut 2 b) 2 bias strips for front armhole edges: size 36: 6¾" (17 cm); size 38: 71⁄8" (18 cm); size 40: 7½" (19 cm); size 42: 8" (20 cm); size 44: 83⁄8" (21 cm) long; for back armhole edges: size 36: 91⁄8" (23 cm); size 38: 9½" (24 cm); size 40: 10" (25 cm); size 42: 10¼" (26 cm); size 44: 10¾" (27 cm) long; each 15⁄8" (4 cm) wide, including seam allowances Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.

Construction ■ With right sides together, lay front neck facings on satin fronts. Stitch along neck edge, above each seam mark, as far as armhole. At seam marks, turn lower facing ends up and pin. Stitch center front seam between markings. Remove pins. Stitch facing center seam. Turn facing to inside and press edges. Press seam allowances open. ■ With right sides together, lay back neck facing on center back of satin. Pin. Stitch along neck edge. Turn facing to inside and press edge. ■ Lay embroidered organza center front on satin center front, with wrong side facing right side –scalloped edge extends past faced neck edge. Baste side and lower edges together, leaving seam allowance of center front and facings free. Baste embroidered organza center back to satin center back as for center front. Baste side front and back pieces of organza to corresponding pieces of satin, with wrong side facing right side. Treat these pieces each as one layer for construction. ■ Stitch side fronts to center front. Stitch side backs to center back. On peplum facing, stitch center front seam above seam mark. Stitch side front peplum facing pieces to center front peplum facing piece. Press seams open. ■ With right sides together, lay peplum facing on lower front edge (integrated peplum). On one half of peplum, stitch exactly from marked upper seamline along side, lower, and front edges. Above curve, stitch to 1⁄16" from marked seamline, leaving free seam allowance of center seam. Stitch other half of peplum in same manner. Trim seam allowances. At center front, carefully cut organza fabric between lines of stitching. Leave peplum facing lying on front, right sides together. Fold seam allowance on upper facing edge down and pin in place. On left side edge, clip allowance of front close to last stitch. ■ Stitch sleeve seams as French seams: Lay fabric pieces wrong sides together. Stitch seam allowances 1⁄8" (4 mm) from edge.

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Press seam allowances open. Lay pieces right sides together, with seam exactly along fold. Stitch along marked seamline, ¼" (6 mm) from folded edge. Press seam allowances toward back. ■ Finish lower sleeve edges with closely spaced zigzag stitching: Press hem allowance to wrong side. Work from right side to stitch along folded edge with a narrow, closely spaced zigzag. On inside, carefully trim hem allowances close to stitching. ■ Attach sleeves, armhole edges: At each armhole edge, turn neck facing up again. Baste sleeves to front and back (seam numbers 8 and 9). With right sides together, lay neck facings on front and back. Baste to armhole edges, over sleeves. With wrong sides together, fold bias strips for armhole edges in half lengthwise and press. Pin folded bias strips to armhole edges so folded edge of each strip lies on garment piece 3⁄8" (1 cm) past seamline and strip ends lie on facings. Stitch along marked armhole edges. Trim seam allowances. Turn bias strips and facings to inside. Hand-stitch folded edges of bias strips in place. Sew inside edge of neck facing to center seam. ■ On bodice, stitch right side seam – seam ends at folded-over upper edge of peplum facing. Turn peplum right-side out and press edge. Press side seam allowances open. Hand-stitch upper ends of seam allowances to armhole edge. ■ On embroidered organza skirt, stitch center back seam, back section seams, and right side seam as French seams (see above). ■ With wrong side facing right side, lay organza skirt on satin skirt. Baste upper edges and side edges together, as far as opening mark. Gather front skirt upper edge between asterisks. ■ With right sides together, lay skirt front on peplum facing. Pin together marked seamlines on upper skirt edge and facing. Stitch from left opening edge to right side seam. With right sides together, stitch skirt back to back. Press seam allowances up and hand-stitch to seams. ■ Sew invisible zipper to left opening edges (see instructions on page 66). Begin at armhole edge and leave ends of zipper tapes extending at top. Turn top ends of zipper tapes under and sew to armhole edge, together with seam allowances. ■ Clip seam allowances of dress at end of opening. Below zipper, stitch left side seams on organza and satin each separately using French seams (see above). ■ Appliqué “scalloped” edge: Mark center of scalloped fabric edge strip (a) at one

scallop center. Pin scalloped strip to organza skirt lower edge so scallops meet marked hem line and marked scallop center lies at center front. Sew ends of scalloped strip together at center back and trim away excess length. Baste scalloped strip in place, with long diagonal stitches. Stitch ¾" (2 cm) above scalloped edge with small zigzag stitches. Carefully trim extending upper edge of scalloped strip close to stitching and trim away organza under scalloped edge, close to zigzag stitching. ■ On satin skirt, press hem allowance to inside and hand-stitch in place.

Construction ■ Stretch seam edges: Lay back trouser pieces right sides together. Stretch inside leg edges above marking by pressing with a steam iron or under a damp cloth until they are as long as on front trouser pieces. ■ Stitch back darts and press toward center. ■ With wrong sides together, fold front trouser pieces lengthwise and press creases. Lay pleats in arrow direction and baste. Stitch center front seam from upper edges 4" (10 cm) long, beginning at upper edge exactly on seamline. Press seam allowances open.

110A-

022015-US Skinny Pants with Hip Yoke  PATTERN AVAILABLE ON INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 on page 59 Finished side length: 42¼" (107 cm) Leg hem circumference: 16" (40 cm)

Materials Silk crêpe, 54" (137 cm) wide: 2¼ yds (2.05 m) for all sizes Interfacing Notion: 1 invisible zipper, 9" (22 cm) long

Green pattern line, sheets A1-A2 Pattern pieces 1 to 5 Size 34 2222 Size 36 3333 Size 38 4444 Size 40 55 Size 42 6666 Size 44 7777

Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

Preparation Trace pieces 1-5 from pattern sheet. Trace pocket piece from piece 2 to placement line as a separate pattern piece. Cut out all paper pieces.

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Silk crêpe: 1 front trouser, cut 2 2 side hip yoke with cut-on pocket, cut 2 2 pocket, cut 2 3 back trouser, cut 2 4 front waistband, cut 2 on fold 5 back waistband, cut 4 Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout. Interface outer waistband pieces.

NZ_BS1404_110T Cutting layout

Silk crêpe, 54" (137 cm) wide Sizes 34 – 44 Fold

Selvedges Cut from a double layer of fabric, right sides together. Cut the pieces shown extending over the fabric fold last from a single layer of remaining fabric.

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■ Hip yoke pockets: With right sides together, stitch pockets to front pocket opening edges. Lay pocket up and stitch to seam allowances close to seam. Turn pocket pieces to inside. Pin pocket opening edges to side hip yokes at placement lines. On inside, stitch pocket pieces together. Stitch front edges of pockets right sides together (center seam). Press seam allowances open. Baste upper and side pocket piece edges to front trousers wrong side. ■ Stitch right side seam and inside leg seams. Stitch right side seam of waistband pieces (on inside and outside waistband as opposites). Press seam allowances open. ■ Stitch outer waistband pieces to upper trousers edges. Press seam allowances toward waistband pieces. ■ Sew invisible zipper to trouser left opening and waistband (see instructions on page 66). Stitch left side seam from lower edge to zipper. ■ Lay inside waistband pieces right sides together with outer waistband pieces, pin upper edges together. Turn ends of waistband pieces back at zipper opening 3 ⁄16" (5 mm) before opening edge, pin at upper edge. Lay outer waistband seam allowances at opening edges outward and pin at upper edge over inside waistband pieces. Stitch along upper edges. Turn seam allowances at opening edges and inside waistband pieces to inside. ■ Lay inside waistband pieces up in back and press upper waistband edge seam allowances open 2" (5 cm). Stitch remainder of front and back center seam to inside waistband edge. Press center back seam allowances open from upper edge to beginning of curve. Do not press seam allowances flat along curve. Turn in inside waistband edge and hand-stitch in place. ■ Press hem allowances to inside and hand-stitch in place. ■ Press creases in back trouser pieces. Press creases in front hems.

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022015-US Square-Neck Top  PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1nWxXug

Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42 on page 27 Finished back length: 16" (40 cm)

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Materials Bouclé knit, 54" (137 cm) wide: 1 ⁄8 yds (1.2 m) for all sizes Interfacing Notion: Fusible bias stay tape 3

Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

Preparation Trace pieces 1-5 from pattern sheet. Cut apart piece 3 on the marked seamline to make sleeve front and sleeve back. Cut out all paper pieces.

Seam and hem allowances Seams and edges, 5⁄8" (1.5 cm); hem, 4" (10 cm)

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Bouclé knit: 1 front, cut 1 on fold 2 back, cut 1 on fold 3 sleeve front, cut 2 3 sleeve back, cut 2 4 front facing, cut 1 fold 5 back facing, cut 1 on fold a) 2 sleeve ruffles: size 34: 19¼" (49 cm); size 36: 19¾" (50 cm); size 38: 20¼" (51 cm); size 40: 20½" (52 cm); size 42: 21" (53 cm) long; and 8" (20 cm) wide, excluding seam allowances Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout. Fuse bias stay tape to wrong side of armhole edges.

Construction ■ Stitch bust darts. Press darts down. ■ Stitch side seams (seam number 1). Stitch lower sleeve seams (seam number 2). Press seams open. Stitch sleeves to armhole edges, beginning and ending at marked neck edge. Press seam allowances open, from upper edges to beginning of underarm curves. Stitch upper sleeve seams (seam number 5). Press seam allowances open. ■ Stitch neck facing shoulder seams. With right sides together, pin neck facing to neck edge. Stitch along marked neck edge. Trim seam allowances. Understitch facing, close to seam. Turn facing to inside, and handstitch to seams. ■ On each sleeve ruffle piece, stitch narrow edges together. With wrong sides together, fold ruffle in half lengthwise and press. Gather ruffle upper edges and stitch

to lower sleeve edges. Press seam allowances toward sleeves. ■ Press hem allowance to inside and handstitch in place.

111.1-

022015-US Oversized Cardigan  PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1nYH4eZ

Burda sizes 34/36, 38/40, 42/44 on page 35 Finished back length: 37½" (95 cm)

Materials Bouclé knit, 60" (152.5 cm)) wide: size 34/36: 25⁄8 yds (2.4 m); size 38/40: 2¾ yds (2.5 m); size 42/44: 27⁄8 yds (2.60 m) Knit lining fabric, 12" × 24" (30 × 60 cm) Notion: Fusible bias stay tape Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

Preparation Trace pieces from pattern sheet. Lengthen piece 21 as indicated. Cut out all paper pieces.

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Bouclé knit: 21 front, cut 2 22 back, cut 1 on fold 23 sleeve, cut 2 24 back facing, cut 1 on fold 25 pocket, cut 2 a) hem band: size 34/36: 39½" (100 cm); size 38/40: 42½" (108 cm); size 42/44: 45¾" (116 cm) long; and 9½" (24 cm) wide, excluding seam allowances b) neck band: size 34/36: 17½" (44.5 cm); size 38/40: 18¼" (46.5 cm); size 42/44: 191⁄8" (48.5 cm) long; and 2" (5 cm) wide, excluding seam allowances c) 2 sleeve bands: size 34/36: 8¼" (20.5 cm); size 38/40: 8½" (21.5 cm); size 42/44: 9" (22.5 cm) long; and 6½" (16 cm) wide, excluding seam allowances Lining: 25 pocket, cut 2, minus width of facing Fusible bias stay tape: Fuse to wrong side of neck and armhole edges, and front shoulder seam edges.

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Construction ■ Stitch shoulder seams. Press seam allowances open. ■ Stitch sleeves to armhole edges. Trim seam allowances to ¼" (6 mm), neaten edges together, and press toward sleeves. Stitch side seams and sleeve seams as continuous seams. ■ With right sides together, fold hem band lengthwise. Stitch across ends. Turn rightside out. Stitch hem band edges together to lower jacket edge, stretching to match. Begin and end stitching at facing fold line. Leave hem band lying on jacket. ■ With right sides together, fold neck band lengthwise. Stitch across ends. Turn rightside out. Press neck band to shape, easing folded edge and stretching attachment edges. Baste neck band edges together to neck edge, beginning and ending at facing fold lines. Leave neck band lying on jacket. ■ Turn front self-facings to outside and stitch to back facing. Pin, then stitch facing to neck edge, over neck band, and to lower edge, over hem band. Turn facing to inside. Turn hem band down and turn neck band up. Press edges. Baste inside edge of facing in place, then stitch in place, working from garment right side. ■ Patch pockets: Stitch pocket linings to selffacings, leaving 2" (5 cm) open for turning. Turn facings and lining to outside and stitch to side and lower pocket edges. Turn pockets right-side out. Sew seam openings closed. Edgestitch pockets to jacket. ■ Stitch ends of each sleeve band together. With wrong sides together, fold sleeve bands in half. Stitch sleeve band edges together to lower sleeve edges, stretching sleeve bands to fit. Turn seam allowances up.

111A-

022015-US Funnel-Neck Top  PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1sRwoWu

Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42 on page 60 Finished length from waist: 9½" (24 cm)

Materials Fine stretch jersey, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: 1½ yds (1.3 m) for all sizes Interfacing scrap Notion: Twin stretch needle, size 2.5/75

Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

Preparation Trace pieces 21 and 22 from pattern sheet. Note different lines for right and left sleeves on piece 22. Cut out all paper pieces.

Seam and hem allowances Seams and edges, ⁄8" (1.5 cm); upper edge of left sleeve, ¼" (6 mm); hem and sleeve hems, 15⁄8" (4 cm) 5

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Stretch jersey: 21 front and back with cut-on collar, cut 1 on fold 22 right sleeve, cut 1 22 left sleeve (printed pattern side face down), cut 1 Interfacing: Fuse a 1¼" (3 cm) strip of interfacing to wrong side of front and back over marked slash line. Fuse a 5⁄8" (1.5 cm) strip of interfacing to right armhole edge.

Construction Note: Stitch seams with a special stretch stitch, narrow zigzag or serging. To keep hems flexible, stitch with a twin needle. ■ Stitch sleeve seams (seam number 1). Trim seam allowances to ¼" (6 mm), neaten edges together and press to one side. Press sleeve hem allowances to inside. From the right side, stitch 1¼" (3 cm) from fold using twin needle. ■ Mark fabric fold line on front and back near marked slash line with basting stitches. Slash front and back as marked. Pin left sleeve to cut edges, first pinning sleeve seam to lower marked fabric fold line and pinning seam mark (upper sleeve edge) to upper marked fabric fold line. Spread cut edges apart. Pin sleeve edges ¼" (6 mm) on cut edges and stitch. ■ Neaten seam allowance at upper collar edge. ■ Stitch right shoulder seam and collar seam each as a French seam: Lay fabric pieces wrong sides together and stitch a ¼" (6 mm) seam. Press seam allowances open. Lay pieces right sides together, with the seam lying exactly along fold. Stitch 3⁄8" (9 mm) from folded edge along marked seamline. Press seam allowances to one side. ■ Stitch right side seam. Trim seam allowances, neaten edges together, and press toward back. ■ Set in right sleeve.

■ Press hem allowance to inside, stitch from right side with twin needle.

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022015-US Workout Pants  PATTERN AVAILABLE ON INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 on page 35 Finished side length, including waistband: 40¼" (102 cm) Waistband edge is ¾" (2 cm) below normal waistline

Materials Fine jersey, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: sizes 36, 38: 1¾ yds (1.45 cm); sizes 40, 42, 44: 17⁄8 yds (1.65 m) Interfacing scrap Notions: Elastic, 15⁄8" (4 cm) wide: sizes 36, 38: 1 yd (.9 m); size 40: 11⁄8 yd (.95 m); sizes 42, 44: 1¼ yds (1.1 m); cord, 3⁄16" (5 mm) diameter: size 36: 15⁄8 yds (1.4 m); sizes 38, 40, 42, 44: 1¾ yds (1.6 m) Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

Preparation Trace pieces 21-24 from cutting sheet. Trace pocket piece from piece 21 as a separate pattern piece. Cut out all paper pieces. Stitching lines on piece 21 are marked for size 36. For sizes 38 – 44, mark stitching lines same distance from center front as for size 36.

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Fine jersey: 21 front trouser, cut 2 21 pocket, cut 2 22 side hip yoke with integrated pocket, cut 2 23 back trouser, cut 2 24 back pocket, cut 2 a) waistband: size 36: 33½" (85 cm); size 38: 35" (89 cm); size 40: 36¾" (93 cm); size 42: 38¼" (97 cm); size 44: 39¾" (101 cm) long; and 4" wide, excluding seam allowances b) 4 bands for trouser legs: size 36: 8¾" (22 cm); size 38: 91⁄8" (23 cm); size 40: 9½" (24 cm); size 42: 10" (25 cm); size 44:

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10¾" (26 cm) long; and 4¾" (12 cm) wide, excluding seam allowances Interfacing: Fuse ¾" (2 cm) wide interfacing strips to wrong side of front trouser pocket opening edges.

Construction Note: Stitch seams with a special stretch stitch, narrow zigzag or serging.

Blue pattern line, sheets D1-D2 Pattern pieces 21 to 24 Size 36 AAAAA Size 38 === Size 40 CCC Size 42 67 67 Size 44 EEEEE

Cutting layouts Jersey, 60" (152.5 cm) wide Sizes 36, 38 Fold

Selvedges

Sizes 40 – 44 Fold

Selvedges Cut from a double layer of fabric, right sides together.

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■ Hip yoke pockets: With right sides together, stitch pocket pieces to trouser front pocket opening edges. Turn pocket pieces to inside. Topstitch ¼" (6 mm) from pocket opening edges. Pin pocket opening edges to side hip yokes at placement lines. Stitch pocket pieces together. Baste pocket pieces to wrong side of front trouser pieces. ■ Back pockets: Turn self-facing on each pocket to inside and stitch as marked. Press seam allowances on side and lower edges to inside. Pin pockets to back trouser pieces. Edgestitch in place and stitch again ¼" (6 mm) from edges. ■ Stitch side seams and inside leg seams. Press seam allowances open. ■ With right sides together, pull one trouser leg into the other. Stitch center front and back seam as continuous seam. In back, press center seam open from upper edge to beginning of crotch curve. Do not press seam allowances flat along curve. In front, press wide seam allowances toward right trouser piece. Topstitch right front trouser piece as marked creating a mock fly. ■ Waistband: With right sides together, fold waistband in half lengthwise. Press folded edge. Unfold waistband again. Pin waistband ends together, right sides facing. Stitch seam on outer waistband half, leaving inside half open to insert elastic. Press seam allowances open. Mark center front opposite from seam. On outer waistband half, mark two small openings, each 5⁄8" (1.5 cm) long spaced 5⁄8" (1.5 cm) from center front and 5⁄8" (1.5 cm) from marked attachment seamline. Fuse small pieces of interfacing to waistband wrong side for reinforcement. Stitch buttonholes on markings through interfaced outside only. Fold waistband in half again. Stitch waistband edges together to upper trousers edge, stretching to match. Neaten seam allowances and press down. Insert elastic in waistband. Sew ends of elastic together to a circumference of: size 36: 31½" (80 cm); size 38: 33" (84 cm); size 40: 34¾" (88 cm); size 42: 40¼" (102 cm); size 44: 41¾" (106 cm). Sew seam opening closed. Pull cord into waistband through buttonholes, using a safety pin or bodkin. Knot ends of cord. ■ For each leg band, lay two pieces wrong sides together, and baste edges. Treat these pieces each as one layer of fabric for construction. Stitch narrow edges of each leg band together. Press seam open. Fold leg bands in half, wrong sides together. Stitch leg band edges together to lower trouser leg edges, stretching to match. Match leg band seams to inside leg seams. Press seam allowances up.

112.1-

022015-US Funnel-Neck Dress  PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1FkxIC7

Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42 on page 57 Length from waist: 27¾" (70 cm)

Materials Stretch cloqué, 54" (137 cm) wide: sizes 34, 36, 38: 1¾ yds (1.5 m); sizes 40, 42: 2½ yds (2.20 m) Interfacing scrap Notion: Twin stretch needle, size 2.5/75 Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

Preparation Trace pieces 21 and 22 from pattern sheet. Note different lines for right and left sleeve on piece 22. Cut out all paper pieces.

Seam and hem allowances Seams and edges, 5⁄8" (1.5 cm); upper edge of left sleeve, ¼" (6 mm); hem and sleeve hems, 15���8" (4 cm)

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Stretch cloqué: 21 front and back with cut-on collar, cut 1 on fold 22 right sleeve, cut 1 22 left sleeve (printed pattern side face down), cut 1 Interfacing: Fuse a 1¼" (3 cm) strip of interfacing to wrong side of front and back over marked slash line. Fuse a 5⁄8" (1.5 cm) strip of interfacing to right armhole edge.

Construction Note: Stitch seams with a special stretch stitch, narrow zigzag or serging. To keep hems flexible, stitch with a twin needle. ■ Stitch darts and press toward center. ■ Stitch sleeve seams (seam number 1). Trim seam allowances to ¼" (6 mm), neaten edges together and press to one side. Press sleeve hem allowances to inside. From the right side, stitch 1¼" (3 cm) from fold using twin needle.

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■ Mark fabric fold line on front and back near marked slash line with basting stitches. Slash front and back as marked. Pin left sleeve to cut edges, first pinning sleeve seam to lower marked fabric fold line and pinning seam mark (upper sleeve edge) to upper marked fabric fold line. Spread cut edges apart. Pin sleeve edges ¼" (6 mm) on cut edges and stitch. ■ Neaten seam allowance at upper collar edge. ■ Stitch right shoulder seam and collar seam each as a French seam: Lay fabric pieces wrong sides together and stitch a ¼" (6 mm) seam. Press seam allowances open. Lay pieces right sides together, with the seam lying exactly along fold. Stitch 3⁄8" (9 mm) from folded edge along marked seamline. Press seam allowances to one side. ■ Gather side seam between asterisks to measure 6" (15 cm). ■ Stitch right side seam. Trim seam allowances, neaten edges together, and press toward back. ■ Set in right sleeve. ■ Press hem allowance to inside, stitch from right side with twin needle.

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022015-US Top with Leather Trim  PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1iSOzXj

Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42 on page 34 Finished back length: 19" (48 cm)

Materials Sweater knit or sweatshirt fabric, 54" (137 cm) wide: sizes 34, 36, 38, 40: 1¼ yds (1.1 m); size 42: 1½ yds (1.3 m) Nappa leather or imitation leather, for sleeve patches: 8" × 10" (20 × 25 cm) Lining scrap, to cover snaps Notions: Fusible bias stay tape; grosgrain ribbon, 1" (2.5 cm) wide: 7⁄8 yd (.7 m); 4 sew-on snap fasteners; twin stretch needle, size 2.5/75 Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

Preparation Trace pieces 21-23 from pattern sheet. Note different lines for right shoulder seam and left shoulder fastening. Trace patch from

piece 23 as a separate pattern piece. Cut out all paper pieces.

Seam and hem allowances Seams and edges, 5⁄8" (1.5 cm); hem and sleeve hems, 23⁄8" (6 cm); cut patches without seam allowances

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Knit fabric: 21 front, cut 1 on fold 22 back, cut 1 on fold 23 sleeve, cut 2 a) neck band: size 34: 15¾" (40 cm); size 36: 16¼" (41 cm); size 38: 16½" (42 cm); size 40: 17" (43 cm); size 42: 17¼" (44 cm) long; and 3" (7 cm) wide, excluding seam allowances b) upper left pocket, 4" (10 cm) long, and 43⁄8" (11 cm) wide Note: First cut both halves of back same size, from double fabric layer. Then, for right shoulder seam, trim self-facing to 5⁄8" (1.5 cm) before marked “right seam" line. Leather/imitation leather: 23 patch, cut 2 Fusible bias stay tape: Fuse to wrong side of right front shoulder seam edge.

Construction Note: On stretch fabrics, stitch seams with a stretch stitch, narrow zigzag or serging. Stitch hems with a twin needle to keep them flexible. ■ Patch pocket: Cut a 5½" (14 cm) piece of grosgrain ribbon for the pocket. Lay ribbon on upper pocket edge so edge lies 1 ⁄8" (3 mm) from marked seamline. Edgestitch ribbon in place. Turn ribbon/ seam allowance to inside and press edge. Stitch lower ribbon edge in place. On remaining pocket edges, finish seam allowances and press to inside. Edgestitch pocket to left front at placement line. ■ Stitch right shoulder seam. Neaten seam allowances together and press forward. ■ With wrong sides together, fold neck band in half. Stitch long edges together to neck edge, stretching slightly to match. Press seam allowances toward top. ■ Shoulder opening: Cut two pieces of grosgrain ribbon, each: size 34: 97⁄8" (25 cm); size 36: 10" (25.5 cm); size 38: 10¼" (26 cm); size 40: 10½" (26.5 cm); size 42: 10¾" (27 cm) long, for shoulder fastening. Lay one ribbon piece on wrong side of seam allowance underlap edge (left edge), leaving ribbon extending 3⁄8" (1 cm) past neck band folded edge. Stitch ribbon in place, directly next to

seamline. Turn extending ribbon end under at neck band edge. Turn ribbon with seam allowance to right fabric side. Stitch ribbon edge in place, 1⁄8" (3 mm) from placement line and seamline. Press folded edge. Stitch turnedin ribbon end in place. Lay second piece of ribbon on right side of seam allowance on front shoulder edge, leaving ribbon extending 3 ⁄8" (1 cm) past neck band. Stitch ribbon edge in place 1⁄8" (3 mm) from seamline. Turn extending ribbon end under. Lay front right on back, right sides together. Stitch left shoulder seam from slit mark to armhole edge. On front shoulder edge, turn ribbon with seam allowance to inside. Stitch ribbon edge to front and neck band, not catching underlap. Stitch turned-in ribbon end in place. Lay front slit edge on underlap and baste to armhole. ■ Edgestitch elbow patches in place on sleeves. ■ Stitch sleeves to armhole edges, stretching to match, beginning and ending exactly at marked seamlines. At seam ends, turn seam allowances of sleeves back and pin in place. Stitch side seams from sleeve attachment seams to lower edge. Remove pins. Stitch sleeve seams. ■ Press hem allowances on top and on sleeves to inside. Work from right side and use twin needle to stitch hems 2" (5 cm) from folded edges. On sleeves, begin and end stitching at sleeve patches. Below patches, hand-stitch hem allowance in place. ■ Cover snap fasteners with lining fabric (see instructions on page 69). At shoulder opening, sew top snap halves to wrong side of front opening edge. Space first snap 3⁄8" (1 cm) from neck band edge, second snap 1¼" (3 cm) from first snap, and two more snaps, each spaced 2¼" (5.5 cm) apart. Sew bottom snap halves to underlap to match.

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022015-US Cumberbund Skirt  PATTERN AVAILABLE ON INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 on page 60 Finished skirt length from waist: 23" (58 cm) Upper skirt edge sits 4" (10 cm) above natural waistline

Materials Poplin, 54" (137 cm) wide: 15⁄8 yds (1.4 m) for all sizes

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Green pattern line, sheets C1-C2 Pattern pieces 1 to 6 Size 34 2222 Size 36 3333 Size 38 4444 Size 40 55 Size 42 6666 Size 44 7777

NZ_BS1404_114T Cutting layout

Poplin, 54" (137 cm) wide Sizes 34-44 Fold

Selvedges Cut from a double layer of fabric, right sides together.

Interfacing Notion: 1 invisible zipper, 16" (40 cm) long Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

Preparation Trace pieces 1-6 from pattern sheet. Lengthen pieces 1, 2, and 3 as indicated. Cut out all paper pieces. Welt joining line on piece 1 is marked for size 34 only. Remark this line for other sizes according to size lines.

Seam and hem allowances Seams and edges, 5⁄8" (1.5 cm); hem, 4" (10 cm)

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: 86

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Poplin: 1 center front skirt, cut 1 on fold 2 side front skirt, cut 2 3 back skirt, cut 2 4 pocket, cut 4 (2 to lining line) 5 front facing, cut 1 on fold 6 back facing, cut 2 a) 4 bias welt strips, 71⁄8" (18 cm) long, and 1¼" (3 cm) wide, including seam allowances b) tie belt, total length: size 34: 57½" (146 cm); size 36: 59" (150 cm); size 38: 60¾" (154 cm); size 40: 62¼" (158 cm); size 42" 63¾" (162 cm); size 44: 65½" (166 cm) long; and 3" (7 cm) wide, excluding seam allowances c) 4 belt carriers, 12" (30 cm) long, and 23⁄8" (6 cm) wide, including seam allowances Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout. Fuse 1¼" (3 cm) interfacing strips over front skirt pocket markings.

Construction ■ Welt pockets and front section seams: Use basting thread to mark welt placement lines ¼" (6 mm) from welt joining lines (finished welt width) on right side of center and side front skirt panels. With wrong sides together, fold welt strips lengthwise, press. Lay folded welt strips on center and side front skirts so folded edge of welts meet placement line and welt ends extend evenly at corners. Stitch welts each ¼" (6 mm) from folded edge along joining lines, beginning and ending exactly at corners. Clip seam allowances diagonally toward each last stitch. Do not cut into welts. Lay welts into pocket openings and press. Mark pocket opening ends on welt folded edges 3⁄8" (1 cm) from each seam end (above upper end, below lower end). Fold small fabric triangles at pocket opening ends to inside and stitch to welts from seam end to marking. Stitch front section seams above and below pocket opening. Press seam allowances open. Stitch smaller pockets to front welt seam allowances; stitch larger pocket pieces to seam allowances of side welts. Topstitch skirt panels close to welt joining seams. Stitch pocket pieces together. Baste upper pocket piece edges in place. Topstitch skirt panels at pocket opening ends along angled welt joining seams. ■ Stitch back darts and press toward center. ■ Sew invisible zipper to back skirt opening (see instructions on page 66). Stitch center back seam from lower edge to zipper.

■ Stitch skirt and facing side seams. ■ With right sides together, fold belt carriers lengthwise, stitch 5⁄8" (1.5 cm) from folded edge. Turn right-side out. Topstitch close to edges. Fold belt carriers each in half so that ends lie next to one another and a point is formed in the middle. Press point. Stitch across belt carriers above point. Baste belt carriers on upper skirt edge over front section seams and back darts. ■ Upper skirt edge: Pin facing right sides together with upper skirt edge. Turn facing ends back at zipper opening back 3⁄16" (5 mm) before opening edge, pin at upper edge. Lay seam allowances at opening edges of skirt outward and pin at upper skirt edge, over facing. Stitch along upper skirt edge. Turn seam allowances at opening edges to inside. Lay facing up and understitch as far as possible next to seam. Turn facing to inside and hand-stitch to zipper tapes. Topstitch upper skirt edge as marked, catching in belt carriers. ■ Press hem allowance to inside and stitch 35⁄8" (9 cm) from fold. ■ With right sides together, fold tie belt lengthwise. Stitch edges together, leaving a small opening for turning. Turn belt right-side out. Sew opening closed. Topstitch belt edges.

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022015-US Structured Peplum Top  PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1pE9Ln4

Burda sizes 17, 18, 19, 20, 21 on page 29 Finished back length: 20½" (52 cm)

Materials Jacquard, 60" (152.5 cm): 17⁄8 yds (1.7 m) for all sizes Lining, 54" (137 cm) wide: sizes 17, 18: 1¼ yds (1.1 m); sizes 19, 20, 21: 13⁄8 yds (1.15 m) Interfacing Notions: Grosgrain ribbon, 2" (5 cm) wide: ½ yd (.4 m) for all sizes; 4 hook-and-eye fasteners Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

Preparation Trace pieces 1-10, 12, and 13 from pattern sheet. Trace pocket piece from piece 5 as a

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separate pattern piece. Cut out all paper pieces. Markings for hook fasteners on piece 1 are for size 17. For other sizes, move top mark up according to neck edge; bottom mark is same for all sizes. Space other marks evenly in between.

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Jacquard: 1 center front, cut 2 2 side front, cut 2 3 center back, cut 1 on fold 4 side back, cut 2 5 front peplum, cut 4 5 pocket, cut 2 6 back peplum, cut 2 on fold 7 sleeve front, cut 2 8 sleeve back, cut 2 9 upper sleeve front, cut 2 10 upper sleeve back, cut 2 12 front facing, cut 2 13 back facing, cut 1 on fold Lining: 1 center front, cut 2 to lining line 2 side front, cut 2 3 center back, cut 1 on fold to lining line and with ¾" (2 cm) center back ease pleat 4 side back, cut 2 5 pocket, cut 2 7 sleeve front, cut 2 to lining line 8 sleeve back, cut 2 to lining line 9 upper sleeve front, cut 2 10 upper sleeve back, cut 2 Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout. Interface outer peplum pieces and sleeve hem allowances.

Construction ■ Stitch front and back sections and side seams. Stitch side seams of outer and inner peplum pieces. Stitch facing shoulder seams. Press all seams open. ■ Peplum attachment seam and in-seam pockets: With right sides together, pin each pocket lining piece to outer front peplum pocket opening edge. Stitch to seam allowance, 1⁄16" (1 mm) from seamline. Press pockets up and stitch to seam allowances, close to seam. With right sides together, lay jacquard pockets on fronts, between seam marks. Stitch to seam allowance, 1⁄16" (1 mm) from seamline. Press pocket pieces down. Stitch outer peplum to fronts and to back, leaving pocket openings free. Press seam allowances open. Press pocket pieces down. Trim pocket pieces evenly and stitch together.

■ Sleeves: Stitch upper sleeve seams (seam number 4). On upper sleeve pieces and upper sleeve lining pieces, stitch seams (seam number 6). Press seam allowances open. With right sides together, lay upper sleeves of main fabric and lining together. Stitch lower edges together. Trim seam allowances. Turn lining down and understitch close to seam. Turn lining to inside. Baste open edges together. Lay upper sleeves on sleeves, above seam marks, and baste open edges together. Stitch lower sleeve seams (seam number 5). Press sleeve hem allowances to inside and hand-stitch in place. ■ Stitch sleeves to fronts and back. Press seam allowances open, from upper edges to beginnings of underarm curves. ■ With right sides together, stitch front facing lower ends to inside peplum. At seam ends, clip seam allowance of inside peplum. Press seam allowances open. ■ For underlap, fold grosgrain ribbon in half lengthwise. Stitch across one end, ¼" (6 mm) from end. Beginning at this seam, measure underlap: size 17: 12" (30.5 cm); size 18: 12½" (31.5 cm); size 19: 127⁄8" (32.5 cm); size 20: 13" (33 cm); size 21: 13½" (34 cm) long, then stitch across other end of ribbon. Trim ribbon end ¼" (6 mm) from seam. Turn underlap right side out and press. Lay underlap on front edge right side of left front facing, below neck edge so that folded edge lies on garment piece, 5⁄8" (1.5 cm) past seamline. Stitch underlap to seam allowance. ■ With right sides together, pin facings and inside peplum to jacket. Stitch along peplum edges, front edges, and neck edge. On front edges, leave ¼" (6 mm) open at seam marks, for hooks and eyes. Turn facings to inside, turn peplum right-side out, and lay underlap forward. On both front edges, slide hooks through small openings, from inside to outside. Sew ends of hooks and eyes to facing. Lay inside edge of peplum over attachment seam and pin. Working from right side, stitch along seam, beginning and ending 23⁄8" (6 cm) from front edges. ■ Sew lining: On lining back, stitch ease pleat at top and bottom 2" (5 cm) long and baste in between. Press pleat to one side. Stitch lining seams. Set in sleeves. ■ Sew lining to jacket: Stitch lining to inside facing edge, leaving 3¼" (8 cm) open at bottom. With wrong sides together, lay lining inside jacket, pulling into sleeves. Turn lower lining edge under and handstitch to peplum attachment seam. Sew remaining front lining edges in place. Turn edges of sleeve linings under and handstitch to hem allowances. Lay extra length down and press.

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022015-US Floral Skinny Jeans  PATTERN AVAILABLE ON INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes, 34, 36, 38, 30, 42, 44 on page 36 Finished side length: 39¾" (101 cm) Waistband upper edge sits ¾" (2 cm) below natural waistline Leg hem circumference: 11" (28 cm)

Materials Stretch twill, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: 15⁄8 yds (1.45 m) for all sizes Waistband interfacing Notions: 1 zipper: sizes 34, 36, 38, 40: 5" (12 cm); sizes 42, 44: 6" (14 cm) long; 1 button Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

Preparation Trace pieces 1-6 from pattern sheet. Cut out all paper pieces. Trace pocket drawn on piece 1 as a separate pattern piece; trace piece 6 twice. The zipper stitching line on piece 1 is drawn for size 34. For other sizes, lay piece 6 on front edge of piece 1 and transfer inner edge of facing to mark stitching line.

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Stretch twill: 1 trousers front, cut 2 1 pocket piece, cut 2 2 hip yoke piece with integrated pocket, cut 2 3 trousers back, cut 2 4 back yoke, cut 2 5 pocket, cut 2 6 facing and underlap, cut 4 a) waistband: size 34: 31¼" (79 cm); size 36: 32¾" (83 cm); size 38: 34¼" (87 cm); size 40: 36" (91 cm); size 42: 37½" (95 cm); size 44: 39" (99 cm) long; and 3¼" (8 cm) wide, including seam allowances (b) small pocket: 5¼" (13 cm) high, and 4¾" (12 cm) wide, including seam allowances (c) 5 belt loops, total: 16" (40 cm), and 1¼" (3 cm) wide, including seam allowances

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Interfacing: Fuse interfacing to waistband wrong side.

Construction ■ Stretch seam edges: Lay back trouser pieces right sides together. Stretch inside leg edges above marking by pressing with a steam iron or under a damp cloth until they are as long as on front trouser pieces. ■ Stitch yokes to back trousers (seam number 1). Finish edges of seam allowances together,

Blue pattern line, sheets B1-B2 Pattern pieces 1 to 6 Size 34 2222 Size 36 3333 Size 38 4444 Size 40 55 Size 42 6666 Size 44 7777

NZ_BS1403_115T

Cutting layout Stretch twill, 60" (152.5 cm) wide Sizes 34 to 44 Fold

Selvedges Cut from a double layer of fabric, right BS1403_115WS_Z sides together.

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and press toward yokes. Topstitch yokes close to seams and ¼" (6 mm) from seams. ■ Back pockets: Press seam allowance on upper edge to wrong side, turn under to 3 ⁄8" (1 cm), and edgestitch. Finish side and lower edge seam allowances and press to wrong side. Stitch pockets close to edges and ¼" (6mm) from edges onto back trousers at marked placement lines . ■ With right sides together, stitch back trousers pieces together at center back. Finish seam allowances together and press toward right trouser. Topstitch seam. ■ Small front pocket: Finish all edges of piece b. Press one short edge (upper edge) under 5⁄8" (1.5 cm). Turn edge under to 3⁄8" (1 cm); edgestitch. Press remaining edges to wrong side, 3⁄8" (1 cm) wide. Edgestitch pocket to right hip yoke at marked placement lines. ■ With right sides together, stitch pockets to front trouser pocket opening edges. Trim seam allowances narrowly. Turn pocket pieces to inside. Press edges. Working from right side of trousers, topstitch close to pocket opening edges and ¼" (6 mm) from edge. ■ Stitch pocket pieces together. Lay front trouser pieces on hip yoke pieces, matching placement lines. Stitch pocket piece to hip yoke. Baste trouser edges to hip yokes. Finish seam allowances of center seam and left opening edge. ■ Front opening and zipper: Finish inner facing edge. Stitch facing to right trouser as far as opening mark. At end of seam, turn facing up and pin in place. Stitch center front seam. Press facing to inside and topstitch close to edge. Clip left opening edge 3⁄8" (1 cm) below mark, and press to inside as far as clip. ■ Edgestitch left opening edge to zipper tape with teeth 1⁄8" (3 mm) below tape attachment seam. Close zipper. Pin opening closed, matching center fronts. Working from inside, stitch remaining zipper tape to facing, leaving trousers free. ■ Baste facing to right trouser front. Topstitch right opening edge from top down to 1¼" (3 cm) before opening marked end. Stitch underlap pieces together along rounded edge. Turn rightside out and press. Finish open long edges together and pin them to left opening edge, over zipper tape. Stitch seam allowance of left opening edge to underlap, close to zipper attachment seam. ■ Close zipper. Topstitch remaining opening edge, catching underlap. Topstitch right trouser side close to center seam. ■ Press belt loop long edges to wrong side ¼" (6 mm) and topstitch close to folded edges. Cut 5 loops, each ¾" (8 cm) long.

■ Stitch side seams, matching knee marks and adjacent seamlines. Finish seam allowances together and press toward trouser back. ■ Stitch inner leg seams, matching knee marks, center seams, and seamlines. Press seam allowances open and finish edges. Pin belt loops to trouser upper edge: one loop at each front pocket opening edge, one over center back seam, and one 2" (5 cm) from each side back edge. ■ Waistband: Fold waistband in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Press. Unfold band again. Trim seam allowance on upper trouser edge to 3⁄8" (1 cm). With right sides together, pin waistband to upper trouser edge and underlap, allowing ends to extend 3⁄8" (1 cm). Stitch waistband in place, 3⁄8" (1 cm) from edge. Press seam allowances toward waistband. Press allowance on opposite long edge to wrong side. ■ With right sides together, fold waistband in half. Stitch across ends, 3⁄8" (1 cm) from fabric edges. Turn waistband right-side out. Pin waistband inner half over attachment seam. Topstitch close to all waistband edges, catching inner edge. Stitch across loops, 3⁄8" (1 cm) below waistband attachment seam. Turn loops up, turn ends under, and pin them to upper waistband edge waistband. Edgestitch loop ends in place. ■ Stitch buttonhole in right front waistband edge 5⁄8" (1.5 cm) from front edge. Sew button to left waistband end to match. Press leg hem allowances to inside, turn edge under to a hem width of ¾" (2 cm), and edgestitch in place.

115A-

022015-US Wrap Blouse  PATTERN AVAILABLE ON INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42 on page 61 Finished back length: 20" (50 cm) ¾-sleeves: 19" (48 cm) long

Materials Crêpe, 45" (114.5 cm) wide: size 34: 17⁄8 yds (1.65 m); sizes 36, 39, 40, 42: 21⁄8 yds (1.9 m) Notion: Fusible bias stay tape Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

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Preparation Trace pieces 21-23 from pattern sheet. Cut out all paper pieces.

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Crêpe: 21 front, cut 2 22 back, cut 2 23 sleeve, cut 2 a) bias strip for neck edge: size 34: 23¾" (60 cm); size 36: 24" (61 cm); size 38: 24¾" (63 cm); size 40: 25¼" (64 cm); size

Black pattern line, sheets C1-C2 Pattern pieces 21 to 23 Size 34 AAAAA Size 36 === Size 38 CCC Size 40 67 67 Size 42 EEEEE

Cutting NZ_BS1404_115-1T layouts Crêpe, 45" (114.5 cm) wide Size 34 Fold

42: 26" (66 cm) long; and 15⁄8" (4 cm) wide, including seam allowances Fusible bias stay tape: Fuse to front shoulder seam and armhole edges.

Construction ■ Stitch bust darts, press darts up. Stitch center back seam and side seams. Trim seam allowances to ¼" (6 mm) and neaten edges together. Press center seam allowances to one side, press side seam allowances toward back. ■ Miter front hem corners: Lay hem allowance and front edge seam allowance outward, stitch at an angle. Trim miter seam allowances to 3⁄16" (5 mm) and press open. Turn hem and front edges to inside and baste. ■ Topstitch front edges and hem edge 1½" (3.5 cm) from folded edges. ■ Pin right front to left front with wrong side facing right side and matching centers. Baste shoulder seams together. ■ Stitch shoulder seams. Press seam allowances toward back. ■ Neck edge: With wrong sides together, fold bias strip lengthwise and press. Turn in one end of strip. Pin folded bias strip to neck edge so that folded edge lies on garment piece 3⁄8" (1 cm) past seamline and open end of strip lies over turned-in end at one shoulder seam. Stitch along neck seamline. Trim seam allowances. Turn bias strip to inside. Topstitch neck edge ¼" (6 mm) from fold. ■ Stitch sleeve seams. Press sleeve hem allowances to inside, stitch hem 1½" (3.5 cm) from fold. ■ Set in sleeves.

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022015-US Low-Rise Cropped Pants  PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/V2H8T1

Selvedges

Sizes 36 – 42 Fold

Selvedges Cut from a double layer of fabric, right sides together. Cut the bias strip last from a single layer of remaining fabric.

Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 on page 61 Finished side length, 7⁄8-trousers: 36¾" (93 cm) Leg hem circumference: 18" (45 cm) Note: These trousers are cut a bit wider at the waist to allow them to slip down fashionably when worn.

Materials Wool tissue faille, 60" (152 cm) wide: sizes 34, 36, 38: 13⁄8 yds (1.2 m); sizes 40, 42, 44: 15⁄8 yds (1.4 m)

Lining, 54" (137 cm) wide: 3⁄8 yd (.3 m) Interfacing Notions: 3 buttons Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

Preparation Trace pieces 1-6 from pattern sheet. Lengthen piece 1 as indicated. Cut out all paper pieces. Stitching line on piece 1 is marked for size 34. Mark stitching line for sizes 36 – 44 at same width. Buttonhole on piece 1 is marked for size 34. Remark buttonhole for other sizes accordingly. Pocket lines (welt pocket) on piece 2 are marked in full for size 34 only. Complete the pocket lines for other sizes accordingly.

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Wool tissue faille: 1 front trouser, cut 2 3 back trouser, cut 2 4 back underlap, cut 2 5 front facing, cut 1 on fold 6 back facing, cut 2 a) bias welt strip for back pocket, 6" (15 cm) long, and 23⁄8" (6 cm) wide, including seam allowances b) back pocket, 6" (15 cm) wide, and 8" (20 cm) long, including seam allowances c) bias strip for 1 loop, 4" (10 cm) long, and 1¼" (3 cm) wide, including seam allowances Lining: 2 pocket, cut 2 d) back pocket, 6" (15 cm) wide, and 5¼" (13 cm) long, including seam allowances Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout. Fuse a 15⁄8" (4 cm) interfacing strip over pocket marking on right back trouser.

Construction ■ Stretch seam edges: Lay back trouser pieces right sides together. Stretch inside leg edges above marking by pressing with a steam iron or under a damp cloth until they are as long as on front trouser pieces. ■ Stitch darts on front and back trouser pieces and press toward center. ■ With wrong sides together, fold front trouser pieces lengthwise and press creases. ■ Press lengthwise edges of loop to wrong side ¼" (6 mm). Fold fabric strip in half, stitch edges together. Form fabric strip into

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a loop so that ends lie next to each other and a point is formed in the middle. Stitch across loop ¾" (2 cm) from point. ■ Single welt pocket (right back): Mark a placement line for welt spaced 5⁄8" (1.5 cm) from welt joining line (finished width of welt). With wrong sides together, fold welt strip lengthwise and press. Baste folded welt strip over welt joining line so that folded welt edge meets placement line and open lengthwise edges lie between pocket lines. Stitch welt along welt joining line. Baste loop on right back trouser piece centered on marked pocket joining line so that loop points up. Finished loop length should measure 15⁄8" (4 cm). Loop will be caught in pocket stitching. Mark joining line on right side of fabric pocket 25⁄8" (6.5 cm) below upper edge. Pin fabric pocket right sides together with trouser piece so pocket joining lines lie together and lower pocket piece edge points up. Stitch pocket piece joining lines together. Clip back trouser between welt joining seam and pocket joining seam, clipping diagonally toward each last stitch, but not cutting into welt or pocket. Lay welt into pocket opening, pull pocket to inside. Stitch pocket lining to seam allowances of welt joining seam. Pull small triangles of fabric at pocket opening ends to inside and stitch to welt and pocket pieces, from seam end to seam end. Stitch pocket pieces together. Baste upper pocket piece edge in place—it will be caught in topstitching at upper trousers edges. ■ Stitch center front and back seams from upper edges 4" (10 cm) long. Stitch back facing center seam. Press seam allowances open. Press seam allowance at lower edge of front and back facing to inside. With right sides together, pin front facing to front trouser upper edge. ■ With right sides together, fold pocket on fold line. Press folded edge. Unfold pocket again. Turn in seam allowance at upper pocket edge and stitch. Press seam allowance at inside lengthwise edge (longer edge) of underlaps to inside. Lay underlaps on back edge of pocket with wrong side facing right side, underlap extends from seam mark (seam number 2). Stitch close to pressed-under edge of underlap, baste outer edges together. ■ Pin pocket right sides together with front pocket opening edge below seam mark (seam number 1), upper pocket edge lies on facing. Stitch along pocket opening edges and upper trousers edge, beginning and ending at bottom, exactly at seam mark (seam number 4). Turn facing and pocket to inside, press edges. ■ Stitch underlaps to back pocket opening edge from upper edge of trousers (seam number 3) to marking (seam number 4). Press seam allowances toward 90

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trouser pieces. Pin and stitch back facing right sides together with upper edge of back trouser pieces and underlaps. Turn facing to inside. Turn in facing ends and stitch to underlap. Topstitch upper back trousers edge 15⁄8" (4 cm) from edge, catching inside facing edge. ■ Lay lower pocket edges up at pocket opening ends and pin. Stitch side seams from seam number 4. Press seam allowances open. Remove pins from pockets. Lay pocket edges down, pin at seam allowances of side seams and stitch to seam allowances close to seam, ending 3⁄8" (1 cm) above marked lower pocket edge. Fold pocket pieces right sides together along fold line (pressed crease), stitch lower edges together. Pin upper edge of pockets to front trousers. Topstitch pocket opening edges and upper edge of front trouser pieces as marked, catching pocket pieces and facing. ■ Stitch inside leg seams. Stitch remaining center front and back seam continuously. ■ Press hem allowances to inside and hand-stitch in place. ■ Press creases on back trouser pieces. Press creases in front hems. ■ Stitch buttonholes as marked.

Black pattern line, sheets D1-D2 Pattern pieces 1 to 15 Size 17 3333 Size 18 4444 Size 19 55 Size 20 6666 Size 21 7777

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022015-US Bustier Top Wedding Dress 

Cutting layout

PATTERN AVAILABLE ON INSERT SHEET

Jacquard, 60" (152.5) cm wide Sizes 17 – 21 Fold

Burda sizes 17, 18, 19, 20, 21 on page 50 Finished length from waist: 25¾" (65 cm) ¾-sleeves: 19" (48 cm) long

Materials Jacquard, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: sizes 17, 18, 19: 2 yds (1.8 m); sizes 20, 21: 21⁄8 yds (1.85 m) Bodice lining, 54" (137 cm) wide: ½ yd (.45 m) for all sizes (without sleeves) Interfacing Lightweight batting or fleece Notion: 1 invisible zipper, 24" (60 cm) long Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

Preparation Trace pieces 1-15 from pattern sheet. Cut out all paper pieces.

Selvedges Cut from a double layer of fabric, right sides together.

Seam and hem allowances Seams and edges, 5⁄8" (1.5 cm); hem and sleeve hems, 1¼" (3 cm)

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Jacquard: 1 center front, cut 1 on fold 2 side front, cut 2 3 upper bust, cut 2 4 center lower bust, cut 2

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5 side lower bust, cut 2 6 upper side front, cut 2 7 center back, cut 2 8 side back, cut 2 9 band, cut 4 10 sleeve front, cut 2 11 sleeve back, cut 2 12 center front skirt, cut 1 on fold 13 side front skirt, cut 2 14 center back skirt, cut 2 15 side back skirt, cut 2 Lining: 1 center front, cut 1 on fold 2 side front, cut 2 3 upper bust, cut 2 4 center lower bust, cut 2 5 side lower bust, cut 2 6 upper side front, cut 2 7 center back, cut 2 8 side back, cut 2 Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout. Baste batting to wrong side of bust pieces 3, 4, and 5.

Construction ■ Stitch side fronts to center front (seam number 1). Press seam allowances open. ■ Stitch center lower bust pieces to side lower bust pieces. Press seam allowances open. Stitch upper bust pieces to lower bust units. Stitch upper side fronts to upper bust pieces, from seam mark (seam number 4). Press seam allowances open. ■ Beginning at seam number 5, stitch upper side fronts and bust pieces to curved attachment edges of front as continuous seams. Clip front seam allowance into corners. Stitch front edge of bust pieces to front, beginning and ending at top, exactly at marked neck edge. Trim attachment seam allowances and press toward front. ■ Stitch side back pieces to center back pieces, beginning exactly at seam mark (seam number 6). Stitch bodice side seams and shoulder seams. Press seam allowances open. ■ Stitch section seams on front and back skirts. Stitch side seams. Press seam allowances open. ■ Stitch skirt to bodice. Press seam allowances up. ■ Sew invisible zipper to back opening edges (see instructions on page 66). Stitch center back seam from lower edge to zipper. ■ Sew lining as for bodice. ■ With right sides together, pin lining to dress neck edge. At zipper opening, turn lining back 3⁄16" (5 mm) before opening edge, and pin to neck edge. On dress

opening edges, turn seam allowances to outside and pin to neck edge, over lining. Stitch along neck edge, interrupting stitching at corners of neck edge and not catching seam allowances of section seams. Trim seam allowances. Turn seam allowances on opening edges to inside. Turn lining up and understitch as far as possible, close to seam. Turn lining to inside, turn in edges, and sew to zipper tapes and skirt attachment seam. Baste lining to armholes. ■ With right sides together, stitch each interfaced band piece to an un-interfaced band piece, leaving long side edge open from seam mark to back corner. Trim seam allowances and clip at seam mark. Press edges. Baste open band edges together to front and back armhole edges, beginning at top seam mark. Turn loose front band ends back and hand-stitch to horizontal section seam. In back, hand-stitch bands to neck edge corners. ■ Stitch sleeve seams. Press sleeve hem allowances to inside and hand-stitch in place. ■ Set in sleeves, easing sleeve caps. ■ Press hem allowance to inside and handstitch in place.

117-

022015-US Deep V-Neck Top  PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1iMJJLH

Burda sizes 34/36, 38/40, 42/44 on page 31 Finished back length: 24" (60 cm) ¾-sleeves: 5½" (14 cm) shorter than normal

Materials Crêpe, 54" (137 cm) wide: Size 34/36: 1¾ yds (1.6 m); sizes 38/40, 42/44: 17⁄8 yds (1.65 m) Interfacing Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

Preparation Trace pieces 21-26, and 29 from pattern sheet. Cut piece 21 apart on marked seamline to make front and front yoke. Cut out all paper pieces. Pleat arrow on piece 22 is marked for size

34/36. For other sizes, mark pleat arrow according to size lines.

Seam and hem allowances Seams and edges, 5⁄8" (1.5 cm); hem, 15⁄8" (4 cm); sleeve hems, ¾" (2 cm)

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Crêpe: 21 front, cut 2 21 front yoke, cut 2 22 back, cut 2 23 back yoke, cut 2 on fold 24 front sleeve, cut 2 25 center sleeve, cut 2 26 back sleeve, cut 2 29 front facing, cut 2 Interfacing: Cut from shaded area on cutting layout.

Construction ■ Stitch center front seam, beginning on upper edge, exactly at neck edge seamline. ■ Stitch center back seam. Press seams open. Lay upper back pleats in direction of arrows and baste. ■ Stitch front yokes to front. Stitch outer back yoke to back. Press seam allowances toward yokes. ■ Stitch shoulder seams. Trim seam allowances to ¼" (6 mm) wide, neaten edges together, and press toward back. ■ On facing, stitch center front seam, beginning on upper edge, exactly at marked neck edge. Stitch front neck facing to inside back yoke at shoulder seams. Press seam allowances open. ■ With right sides together, pin front neck facing and inside yoke to neck edge. Stitch along neck edge. Trim seam allowances. Turn facing and inside yoke to inside and press edge. Turn inside yoke edges under and sew to seams. Baste armhole edges together. Hand-stitch inside facing edges to seams. ■ Stitch center sleeve pieces to front and back sleeve pieces. Press seam allowances open. ■ Stitch sleeves to armhole edges. Press seam allowances toward sleeves. ■ Stitch side seams and sleeve seams as continuous seams. ■ Press hem allowance to inside and handstitch in place. Press sleeve hem allowances to inside, turn raw edges under, and stitch.

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117.1-

022015-US Criss-Cross V-Neck Dress  PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1lJBDmc

Burda sizes 17, 18, 19, 20, 21 on page 56 Finished length from waist: 24½" (62 cm)

Materials Stretch jacquard, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: sizes 17, 18, 19: 17⁄8 yds (1.7 m); sizes 20, 21: 2 yds (1.75 m) Interfacing Notion: 1 invisible zipper, 24" (60 cm) long Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

Preparation Trace pieces 21-29 from pattern sheet. Cut out all paper pieces. Note different lines for right and left edges of back vent. Cut skirt panels same size initially from double layer of fabric.

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Stretch jacquard: 21 front with cut-on front band, cut 2 22 back, cut 2 23 back band, cut 2 24 front skirt panel, cut 1 on fold 25 back skirt panel, cut 2 26 front sleeve, cut 2 27 back sleeve, cut 2 28 front neck facing, cut 2 29 back neck facing, cut 2 Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.

Construction ■ Stitch back darts on bodice and press darts toward center. Sew invisible zipper to back pieces from upper edges 6" (15 cm) long (see instructions on page 66). ■ Stitch shoulder and facings seams. Press seam allowances open. ■ With right sides together, pin facings to neck edges. Turn facings back at zipper 3⁄16" (5 mm) before opening edge, pin at neck edge. Lay back opening seam allowance edges outward and pin at neck edge, over 92

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facings. Stitch along neck edge, stitching in front exactly to marking. Clip front seam allowances at marking. Turn facings to inside, hand-stitch to zipper tapes and shoulder seams. Baste front facing ends in place. ■ Stitch bust darts in fronts, beginning exactly at marking and backstitching, leaving seam allowances free. Press darts toward center. Stitch darts in skirts and press toward center. At center front, fold seam allowances of top point down and press. ■ Stitch right front to upper edge of left front cut-on band from seam number 3 to dart seam (marking). Stitch lower edge of left band to right front skirt half from seam number 4 to center front. Press seam allowances toward band. Fold right front with cut-on band down. Stitch lower edge of right band to left front skirt from seam number 4 to center front, backstitching at center front and go on to machine baste band to left band as far as upper band joining seams. Stitch seam allowance of band to left band 3⁄8" (1 cm) from marked seamline. Lay right front with band up, press seam. Remove machine basting. Stitch left front to cut-on band of right front from seam number 3 to dart seam (marking). Press seam allowances toward band. ■ Stitch back bands to lower back edges and upper edges of back skirts. Press seam allowances toward bands. ■ Stitch remainder of invisible zipper as far as opening mark. Stitch center back seam from vent to zipper. Press seam allowances open, press left vent facing to inside. Lay right vent facing toward left back and press under, tapering seam allowance of right back above vent to avoid clipping. Turn underlap facing back on fold line and press. Trim left vent facing to 15⁄8" (4 cm). Topstitch left back upper vent at an angle as marked, catching underlap. ■ Stitch side seams (seam number 7). ■ Stitch upper and lower sleeve seams. Press sleeve hem allowances to inside, hand-stitch in place. ■ Set in sleeves. Press sleeve attachment seam allowances toward sleeves above underarm curve. ■ Turn vent facings back again at hem. Press hem allowance to inside, hand-stitch in place. Lay facings to inside again, handstitch to hem allowance.

122-

022015-US Tulle Wedding Gown  PATTERN AVAILABLE ON INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 72, 76, 80, 84, 88 on page 51 Finished length from waist: 45¾" (116 cm)

Materials Tulle lace with two scalloped edges, 36" (90 cm) wide: 33⁄8 yds (3 m) for all sizes Chiffon, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: 12¾ yds (11.5 m) Lightweight crêpe-back satin, 54" (137 cm) wide, to back the lace and as lining: sizes 72, 76: 2 yds (1.8 m); sizes 80, 84, 88: 21⁄8 yds (1.9 m) Interfacing Notion: 1 invisible zipper, 24" (60 cm) long; fusible bias stay tape Note: The hem edge on this dress is unfinished, to allow it to fray. If you prefer, narrowly hem or press the hem edge to the wrong side and finish the folded edge with a small zigzag stitch instead. Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

Preparation Trace pieces 21-23 from pattern sheet. For lining, trace pieces 21 and 22 each a second time, only to marked lining line. Cut out all paper pieces.

Seam and hem allowances Seams and edges, 5⁄8" (1.5 cm); slanted lower front and back edges, ¼" (6 mm); no allowances on skirt hem edge or on curved outer sleeve edge

Diagrams: Follow diagram on page 93 to make a fullsized pattern piece for skirt (a) and sleeve (b). Use a large sheet of paper with right angle edges (one on the fold) to draw a quarter circle the measurements indicated.

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Chiffon: a) skirt, cut 8 on fold, following diagram Lace: 21 front, cut 1 on fold 22 back, cut 2 23 overskirt, cut 2 on fold

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b) sleeve, cut 2 on fold, following diagram Place lower edge of overskirt panels on lace scalloped edge. Crêpe-back satin: 21 front, cut 1 on fold 21 lining front, cut 1 on fold 22 back, cut 2 22 lining back, cut 2 c) 2 straps: size 72: 12¾" (32 cm); sizes 76, 80: 13" (33 cm); sizes 84, 88: 13½" (34 cm) long; and 1¼" (3 cm) wide, including seam allowances Fusible bias stay tape: Fuse to wrong side of upper edge lining pieces.

Diagrams sleeve (b)

skirt (a)

Cutting layouts

■ For bodice, baste lace pieces to corresponding satin pieces and treat each as one layer for construction. ■ Stitch center back seam, ending at lower seamline. Press seam allowances open. Stitch bust darts and press darts down. Stitch bodice right side seam. ■ Fold each skirt panel at center and use basting thread to mark a slash line: size 72: 6½" (16.5 cm); size 76: 6 5.8" (16.8 cm); size 80: 6¾" (17 cm); size 84: 7" (17.5 cm); size 88: 71⁄8" (18 cm) long, along fabric fold (seam allowance not included). Unfold skirt panels and slash as marked. With right sides together, lay pairs of skirt panels together. Stitch along one straight edge, from bottom (curved hem) to opening (center front and center back seams). Unfold skirt panels. Trim seam allowances to ¼" (6 mm) and press to one side. With right sides together, lay pairs of skirt units together. Stitch along one straight edge from lower edge to opening to make right side seam. Lay skirt units together, with wrong side facing right side, and baste together along upper attachment edges. Baste remaining straight edges together from top, 6½" (16.5 cm) long, for the zipper opening. Mark end of opening. ■ Stitch right side seam on overskirt. With right sides together, gather upper edge of overskirt and baste to lower edge of bodice. At left side edges, fold seam allowance of overskirt to wrong side. Spread cut edges of skirt panels open and pin them ¼" (6 mm) wide to slanted lower edges of front and back. End of slash should meet the point. Stitch skirt in place, stitching as narrowly as possible toward end of slash. ■ Sew invisible zipper to left side edges (see instructions on page 66) as far as marking, leaving overskirt free. Clip seam allowances of upper fabric layer at lower end of opening. On each fabric layer, stitch left side seam separately, from lower edge to zipper. ■ On lining, stitch darts and center back seam. Stitch right side seam as mirror image of dress

Crêpe-back satin, 54" (137 cm) wide Selvedge

Red pattern line, sheets A1-A2 Pattern pieces 21 to 23 Size 72 AAAAA Size 76 === Size 80 CCC Size 84 67 67 Size 88 EEEEE

Selvedge

Lace, 36" (90 cm) wide Scallops

NZ_BS1403_122T Lay out a single layer of fabric, wrong side up. Pieces with a broken outline are placed on the fabric printed sides down. Scallops

Chiffon, 60" (152.5 cm) wide Cut 8 skirt panels. Selvedge

Selvedge

seam. Stitch left side seam of lining below opening mark. Neaten lower lining edge. ■ With right sides together, pin lining to neck edge. At zipper opening, turn lining back, 3⁄16" (5 mm) before opening edge, and pin to upper edge. Turn seam allowances on dress opening edges to outside and pin to neck edge, over lining. Stitch along neck edge. Trim seam

allowances and clip at center front. Turn seam allowances on opening edges to inside. Turn lining up and understitch close to seam. Turn lining to inside and handstitch to zipper tapes. ■ Straps: With right sides together, fold each strap lengthwise. Stitch ¼" (6 mm) from folded edge. Turn straps right-side out and press. Pin straps to inner side corner of

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Center Fold

Center Fold

383⁄4" (98.5 cm)

Ra di us

Construction

Ra di us

sizes 72, 76: 77⁄8" (20 cm); size 80: 8" (20.5 cm); sizes 84, 88: 81⁄4" (21 cm)

38" (96.5 cm)

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neck edges on front and back. Try dress on and adjust straps if needed. Sew in place. ■ Press seam allowance on straight edge of each sleeve to inside. Pin pressed-under sleeve edge to strap, leaving sleeve edge extending 2" (5 cm) long in front and 2½" (6 cm) long in back. Stitch sleeves to straps.

128-

022015-US Men’s Linen Jacket  PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/V2Hzwy

Men‘s sizes 48, 50, 52, 54, 56 on page 60 Finished back length: 30½" (77 cm)

Materials Silk/linen blend, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: sizes 48, 50: 2¾ yds (2.5 m); sizes 52, 54, 56: 27⁄8 yds (2.6 m) Lining, 54" (137 cm) wide: 7⁄8 yd (.75 m) for all sizes Interfacing Notions: Fusible bias stay tape; 3 large buttons, 8 small buttons Note: To make both jacket style 128022015-US and trousers style 129-022015US, you will need: sizes 48, 50: 5 yds (4.5 m); sizes 52, 54: 5¼ yds (4.65 m); size 56: 53⁄8 yds (4.9 m) of 60" (152.5 cm) wide fabric, and 11⁄8 yds (1 m) of 54" (137 cm) wide lining fabric. Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

Preparation Trace pieces 1-12 from pattern sheet. Trace pocket from piece 11 as a separate pattern piece; mark welt joining line. Vent stitching line on piece 3 is marked for size 48. Remark stitching line for sizes 50 – 56 according to size lines.

Seam and hem allowances Seams and edges, 5⁄8" (1.5 cm); center back seam, ¾" (2 cm); hem and sleeve hems, 15⁄8" (4 cm); lining, 5⁄8" (1.5 cm)

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Silk/linen blend: 1 front, cut 2

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2 side piece, cut 2 3 back, cut 2 4 collar, cut 2 on fold 5 collar stand, cut 2 on fold 6 upper sleeve, cut 2 7 under sleeve, cut 2 8 pocket, cut 2 9 upper left welt, cut 1 10 left pocket, cut 1 11 front facing, cut 2 11 pocket, cut 2 12 back facing, cut 2 a) 2 welt strips (inside pockets), 63⁄8" (16 cm) long, and 1½" (3.5 cm) wide, including seam allowances b) 2 bias loops, 3¼" (8 cm) long, and ¾" (2 cm) wide, including seam allowances Lining: 6 upper sleeve, cut 2, without vent allowance 7 under sleeve, cut 2, without vent allowance 8 pocket, cut 2, minus width of facing 10 left pocket, cut 1, to lining line 11 pocket, cut 2, to welt joining line Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout. Fuse 1¼" (3 cm) interfacing strips over pocket markings. Fuse bias stay tape to wrong side of armhole edges.

Construction ■ Sew center back seam as a French seam: Lay the backs wrong sides together and stitch a 3⁄16" (5 mm) wide seam. Press seam allowances open. Lay pieces right sides together, with the seam lying exactly along the fold. Stitch along marked seamline 5⁄8" (1.5 cm) from folded edge. Press seam allowances to one side. ■ Stitch side pieces to back, leaving vents open. Press seam allowances and vent allowances (facing and underlap) toward back. Press seam allowances at lengthwise edges of facing and underlap to inside, turn half in, and stitch. Topstitch center back at top of vents at a angle, catching underlaps. ■ Stitch darts in fronts and press toward center. ■ Left front welt pocket: With right sides together, fold welt lengthwise, stitch across ends. Turn welt right-side out. Stitch welt right sides together with front along marked joining line so welt points down. Lay fabric pocket on front opposite welt and stitch 3⁄8" (1 cm) from welt joining seam. This seam should be ¼" (6 mm) shorter at the ends than welt joining seam. Slash between lines of stitching and clip diagonally toward each last stitch. Do not cut into pocket piece. Pull pocket to inside, press welt over pocket opening. Stitch pocket lining piece to seam allowances of welt joining seam on inside.

Pull small fabric triangles at pocket opening ends to inside and sew to pocket. Trim pockets even and stitch together. Hand-stitch welt ends in place. ■ Stitch sides to fronts. Press seam allowances toward fronts. Stitch shoulder seams. Press seam allowances open. ■ Patch pockets: Stitch pocket lining pieces to pocket self-facings, leaving 2" (5 cm) open for turning. Lay facings and lining outward and stitch to side and lower pocket edges. Trim seam allowances. Turn pockets right-side out and hand-stitch openings. Pin pockets to fronts at placement line. Handstitch side and lower pocket edges with invisible stitches. ■ Fold loops lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch ¼" (6 mm) from folded edge. Trim seam allowances. Turn loops right-side out and press. Fold loops so that ends lies next to each other and a point is formed in middle. Press. Stitch across points of loops. ■ Construct front facing single welt pockets: Mark a placement line for each welt 3 ⁄8" (1 cm) from welt joining line (finished welt width). With wrong sides together, fold welt strips lengthwise and press. Baste folded welt strips over each welt joining line so folded edge of welt meets placement line and open lengthwise edges lie between pocket lines. Stitch welt along welt joining line. Baste loops to front facings at center of marked pocket piece joining line so loops point up, finished loop length is 1¼" (3 cm). Loops will be caught when stitching pockets. Stitch fabric pockets along pocket piece joining line. Slash between lines of stitching and clip diagonally toward each last stitch but do not cut into welt strips or pocket pieces. Lay welts into pocket openings, pull pockets to inside. Stitch pocket lining pieces to seam allowances of welt joining seams. Pull small fabric triangles at pocket opening ends to inside and stitch to welt and pocket piece from seam end to seam end. Baste pocket pieces on underside of front facings; stitch from right side of garment. Sew small buttons to front facings to match loops, catching pocket linings. ■ Stitch facing shoulder seams. Press seam allowances open. Press hem allowances to inside at lower edges of back facings and side lengthwise edges of front facings, turn half in, and stitch. ■ Notched collar and front edges: With right sides together, pin facings to jacket. Pin facing to front along lapel fold line. Build a little extra fullness into corners of lapels (facing). Stitch on facings along lapel edges from marking, along front edges and hem edge. Leave facings lying right sides together with jacket. Stitch collar stand pieces to collar pieces. Trim seam allowances and press open. Topstitch

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close to each side of seams. Stitch collar pieces together along outer edges, building a little extra fullness into top collar and beginning and ending exactly on seamline of joining edge. Turn collar right-side out. Lay collar between jacket and facings. Stitch undercollar to jacket neck edge, stitch top collar to facings. Match markings on collar stand with shoulder seams. Hemmed back facing edges do not meet at neck edge. Press seam allowances of collar joining seams open in front, press seam allowances toward collar from shoulder seams. Turn facings to inside. Press edges. Pin collar joining seams together exactly in front. Lay facings up and understitch close to collar joining seam. Lay facings down again. Turn in collar stand of top collar in back between hemmed back facing edges and sew to joining seam. ■ Turn back vent facings back again. Press hem allowance to inside, hand-stitch in place. Lay facings to inside again, handstitch to hem allowance. Hand-stitch front facings to hem allowance. ■ Baste facings to armhole edges. ■ Stitch front sleeve seams. Lay vent facing and hem allowance on upper sleeves outward and miter corner. Trim mitering seam allowances to 3⁄16" (5 mm) and press open. Stitch hem allowance of under sleeves right sides together with lengthwise edge of underlaps. Clip seam allowance of underlap close to last stitch. Turn hem allowances and vent facings to inside. Stitch back sleeve seams to opening mark. Press seam allowances toward upper sleeves. Sew on small buttons as marked, catching underlaps. ■ Set in sleeves, easing sleeve caps. ■ Stitch sleeve lining seams. With wrong sides together, place sleeve linings inside sleeves. Turn in sleeve lining hem and sew to sleeve hem allowance, laying extra length down. Press. Turn in lining and hand-stitch to sleeve attachment seams. ■ Stitch buttonholes in left front for large buttons.

129-

022015-US Men’s Linen Pants  PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1qr9XW9

Men‘s sizes 48, 50, 52, 54, 56 on page 60 Finished side length: 42¼"-44¾" (107113 cm) Leg hem circumference: 15" (38 cm)

Materials Silk/linen blend, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: sizes 48, 50: 2¼ yds (2 m); sizes 52, 54: 23⁄8 yds (2.1 m); size 56: 25⁄8 yds (2.3 m) Lining , for pockets, 16" × 26" (40 × 65 cm) Interfacing Notions: 1 zipper: sizes 48, 50, 52: 6" (14 cm); sizes 54, 56: 7" (16 cm) long; 2 flat buttons Note: See style 128-022015-US for total fabric required to make up both trousers style 129-022015-US and jacket style 128022015-US Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

Preparation Trace pieces 1-8 from pattern sheet. Trace hem facings as separate pattern pieces. Cut out all paper pieces. Stitching line at zipper opening is marked for size 48. Remark stitching line for sizes 50 – 56 same distance from center front as for size 48, noting opening length. Buttonhole on piece 1 is marked for size 48. Remark buttonhole for other sizes according to size lines.

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Silk/linen blend: 1 front trouser, cut 2 1 front hem facing, cut 2 2 left opening facing, cut 1 3 right opening underlap piece, cut 2 4 pocket, cut 2 5 back trouser, cut 2 5 back hem facing, cut 2 6 back flap, cut 2 7 front facing, cut 2 8 back facing, cut 1 on fold a) 4 back pocket welt strips, 6 3⁄8" (16 cm) long, and 1¼" (3 cm) wide, including seam allowances b) 2 back pockets, 6 3⁄8" (16 cm) wide, and 71⁄8" (18 cm) long, including seam allowances c) 7 belt carriers, total: 21¾" (55 cm) long, and 15⁄8" (4 cm) wide, including seam allowances Lining: 4 pocket, cut 2 b) back pocket, cut 2, as above Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout. Fuse interfacing on only one flap and underlap piece each. Fuse 1¼" (3 cm) strips

to back trouser pieces over pocket markings.

Construction ■ Stretch seam edges: Lay back trouser pieces right sides together. Stretch inside leg edges above marking by pressing with a steam iron or under a damp cloth until they are as long as on front trouser pieces. ■ Stitch back darts and press toward center. ■ Right back welt pocket with flap: Mark placement lines for welts each 3⁄16" (5 mm) (finished welt width) from welt joining lines. Transfer these lines to right side with basting thread. With wrong sides together, fold welt strips lengthwise and press. Lay folded welt strips on back trouser piece and pin so folded edges meet placement lines. Stitch welts along joining lines 3⁄16" (5 mm) from folded edges. Slash between lines of stitching and clip diagonally toward each last stitch, but not cutting into welts. Press welts into pocket opening. Fold small fabric triangles at pocket opening ends to inside and stitch to welts from seam end to seam end. Stitch flap pieces right sides together, leaving joining edge open. Turn right-side out. Stitch buttonhole. Slip flap to inside through pocket opening and stitch to seam allowances close to upper welt joining seam. Stitch pocket lining piece to lower welt seam allowances, stitch fabric pocket to flap and upper welt seam allowances. Trim pocket pieces evenly and stitch together. ■ Construct welt pocket without flap on left back trouser piece. ■ Working from wrong side, stitch pleats in front trousers from upper edge to pleat mark. Lay pleats in arrow direction and press; baste at upper edge. ■ Stitch side seams, leaving pocket openings free. ■ In-seam pockets: Pin pockets right sides together with seam allowances at pocket opening edges – pocket lining pieces in front, silk/linen pockets in back. Stitch pockets along marked seamlines, stitch pocket pieces close to seam above pocket opening edges. Press pocket pieces forward and stitch together. Baste upper pocket edges. Stitch 3⁄8" (1 cm) across pocket opening ends. ■ Stitch inside leg seams. Stitch center front seam below opening mark and center back seam continuously. Stitch facing side seams. Press seam allowance at lower facing edge to inside. ■ With right sides together, fold belt carrier strip lengthwise. Stitch 3⁄8" (1 cm) from folded edge. Turn right-side out. Topstitch close to edges. Cut strip into 7 equal pieces. Baste one belt carrier each on upper trousers edge at

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front next to pleats, at back next to darts, at side seams and also over center back seam. ■ Zipper opening and upper trousers edge: With right sides together, stitch left facing to left opening edge. Turn facing to inside, press edge. Press seam allowance at right opening edge (underlap) to inside 3⁄16" (5 mm) before center front. Baste zipper under edge below marking, stitching close to teeth and turning in top end of zipper tape. Stitch both underlap pieces right sides together, leaving straight joining edge open. Trim seam allowances. Turn underlap right-side out, press. Neaten joining edges together. Pin underlap under right opening edge from marked trouser upper edge. Stitch opening edge to underlap close to edge. Pin opening closed, matching centers. Stitch loose zipper tape to left facing, leaving trouser free. Turn left facing to right side of trousers again, pin at upper edge. Pin upper facing right sides together with upper edge of trousers, left facing end lies on facing of opening and belt carriers are caught between. Stitch along upper trousers edge. Lay upper facing up and understitch as far as possible. Turn in facing end at right opening edge. Turn upper facing and facing at opening edge to inside. Sew facing at right opening edge to underlap joining seam. Baste facing to left opening edge. Topstitch left opening edge lengthwise from upper edge to 1¼" (3 cm) before end as marked, catching facing. Lay opening closed again and topstitch to end, catching underlap. Topstitch upper trousers edge 1" (2.5 cm) and 2" (5 cm) from fold, catching upper facing. Lay belt carriers down, turn in ends over lower seam and stitch. Stitch a buttonhole 5⁄8" (1.5 cm) from left opening edge and 1" (2.5 cm) from upper edge. Stitch buttonhole in underlap as marked. ■ Stitch seams of hem facings. Stitch facings right sides together with lower trouser leg edges. Turn facings to inside. Turn in inside edges and sew in place.

132-

022015-US Keyhole Blouse  PATTERN AVAILABLE ON INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 44, 46, 48, 50, 52 on page 42 Finished back length: 28½" (72 cm)

Materials

Preparation Trace pieces 21-23 from pattern sheet. Cut out all paper pieces. Pleat arrows on piece 21 are marked for size 44. Remark pleat arrows for other sizes accordingly.

Cutting Blue pattern line, sheets C1-C2 Pattern pieces 21 to 23 Size 44 AAAAA Size 46 === Size 48 CCC Size 50 67 67 Size 52 EEEEE

Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Washed silk: 21 front, cut 1 on fold 22 back, cut 1 on fold 23 sleeve, cut 2 a) front slit facing, 6¾" (17 cm) long, and 2" (5 cm) wide, including seam allowances Interfacing: Cut from shaded area on cutting layout. Fusible bias stay tape: Fuse to front armhole and shoulder seam edges.

Construction NZ_BS1404_132T Cutting layouts

Washed silk, 54" (137 cm) wide Sizes 44 – 48 Fold

Fold Selv.

Fold

Selvedges

Sizes 50, 52 Fold

Selvedge

Selvedge Fold the fabric as shown in the cutting layout—right sides together on a double layer; right side up on a single layer. Cut right and left sleeves as opposites.

46, 48: 1¾ yds (1.55 cm); sizes 50, 52: 17⁄8 yds (1.7 m) Interfacing Notions: Grosgrain ribbon, 3⁄8" (1 cm) wide: 2 yds (1.8 m); fusible bias stay tape Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

■ Front slit: Mark slit at center front with basting thread. Pin front facing right sides together with front over slit mark so that upper facing end meets marked neck edge; seam allowance of neck edge extends. Working from wrong side, stitch closely around slit mark. Clip between stitching lines. Turn facing to inside, press edges. Baste upper facing edge. Topstitch close to slit edges. ■ Stitch bust darts, press down. Lay pleats in neck edge in arrow direction and baste. Stitch shoulder seams. ■ Pin grosgrain ribbon to neck edge so that seam allowance of neck edge extends and ribbon ends extend evenly at front slits, for tie bands. Edgestitch ribbon to blouse. ■ Stitch side seams. Press hem allowance to inside, turn in half width, and stitch. ��� Stitch sleeve seams. Press sleeve hem allowances to inside, turn in edges, and stitch. ■ Set in sleeves, easing sleeve caps.

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022015-US Blouse with Pleated Neckline  PATTERN AVAILABLE ON INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 44, 46, 48, 50, 52 on page 40 Finished back length: 28½" (72 cm)

Washed silk, 54" (137 cm) wide: sizes 44,

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project instructions

Blue pattern line, sheets C1-C2 Pattern pieces 21 to 25 Size 44 AAAAA Size 46 === Size 48 CCC Size 50 67 67 Size 52 EEEEE

Cutting layout

NZ_BS1404_133T

Poplin, 60" (152.5 cm) wide Fold

Fold

Selvedges

Fold

Selvedges

Fold the fabric as shown in the cutting layout, right sides together.

Materials Cotton poplin, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: 1¾ yds (1.6 m) for all sizes Interfacing Notions: Fusible bias stay tape; 2 small buttons Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

Preparation Trace pieces 21-25 from pattern sheet. Cut out all paper pieces. Pleat arrows on piece 21 are marked for size 44. Remark pleat arrows for other sizes accordingly.

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces:

Poplin: 21 front, cut 1 on fold 22 back, cut 1 on fold 23 sleeve, cut 2 24 collar, cut 4 25 collar stand, cut 2 on fold a) back slit binding strip, 9" (23 cm) long, and 15⁄8" (4 cm) wide, including seam allowances Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout. Fuse bias stay tape to front armhole and shoulder seam edges.

Construction ■ Clip slit opening in center back. Spread cut edges open to a straight line. Beginning 1⁄8" (3 mm) from upper edge, stitch to binding strip, tapering stitching toward slit end. Lay binding over joining seam toward slit, fold to a width of 3⁄8" (1 cm) and press. Lay binding over slit edge to inside and baste to joining seam. Work from blouse right side to stitch binding close to edge. Lay binding at right slit edge to inside, baste at neck edge. Binding extends at left slit edge as underlap. Pin slit closed, stitch 3⁄8" (1 cm) across bottom end, catching binding. ■ Stitch bust darts, press darts down. Lay front neck edge pleats in arrow direction and baste. Stitch shoulder seams and side seams. ■ Stitch two collar pieces each together along outer edges. Trim seam allowances. Turn collar right-side out and press. Stitch one collar stand piece to neck edge, matching center back to slit edge on right, and to joining seam of binding on left. Press seam allowances toward collar stand. Baste open edges of collar together and baste to upper edge of collar stand, matching front collar edges with center front and back ends with collar stand center back. Press seam allowance at lower edge of other collar stand to inside. Lay collar stand pieces right sides together, catching collar in between. Stitch along back and upper collar stand edges. Trim seam allowances, trimming corners diagonally. Turn collar stand. Baste inside edge of collar stand under. Topstitch collar stand close to all edges. Stitch two buttonholes in right end of collar stand. ■ Press hem allowance to inside, turn half in width, and stitch. ■ Stitch sleeve seams. Press sleeve hem allowances to inside, turn in edges, and stitch. ■ Set in sleeves, easing sleeve caps.

134A-

022015-US Leather-Accent Pants  PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1nZ5sNJ

Burda sizes 44, 46, 48, 50, 52 on page 42 Finished side length, including waistband 43½" (110 cm) Leg hem circumference: 22" (55 cm)

Materials Cotton stretch twill, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: sizes 44, 46: 1¾ yds (1.45 cm); sizes 48, 50: 2¼ yds (2 m); size 52: 2½ yds (2.2 m) Stretch nappa leather. To make up this style, you will need one leather skin with a total of approx. 5 – 6 sq. ft. (1 sq. ft. = approx. 30 × 30 cm). Take the pattern pieces with you when buying the leather. Alternative: Stretch faux leather, 54" (137 cm) wide: ¾ yd (.55 m) for all sizes Interfacing Notions: 1 zipper: sizes 44, 46: 5" (12 cm); sizes 48, 50, 52: 6" (15 cm) long; 1 trouser hook fastener; 1 flat inside button Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

Preparation Trace pieces 1-7 from pattern sheet. Lengthen pieces 1 and 4 as indicated. Trace pocket from piece 3 as a separate pattern piece to placement line. Cut out all paper pieces. Stitching line at zipper opening on piece 1 is marked for size 44. Remark stitching line for sizes 46 – 52 same distance from center front as for size 44, noting opening length.

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Stretch twill: 1 front trouser, cut 2 3 pocket, cut 2 4 back trouser, cut 2 a) left underlap: sizes 44, 46: 5¼" (13 cm); sizes 48, 50, 52: 6" (15 cm) long; and 4½" (11 cm) wide, excluding seam allowances Leather or imitation leather: 2 front yoke, cut 2 3 side hip yoke with cut-on pocket, cut 2 5 back yoke, cut 2 6 front waistband, cut 4

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project instructions

7 back waistband, cut 4 Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.

Construction ■ Stretch seam edges: Lay back trouser pieces right sides together. Stretch inside leg edges above marking by pressing with a steam iron or under a damp cloth until they are as long as on front trouser pieces. ■ Stitch front yokes to front trousers. Stitch back yokes to back trousers. Press seam allowances toward yokes. ■ Hip yoke pockets: With right sides together, stitch pockets to pocket front trouser opening edges. Lay pockets up and understitch close to seam. Turn pockets to inside. Pin pocket opening edges to side hip yokes at placement lines. Stitch pocket pieces together on inside. Baste pockets to underside of front trouser pieces, first cutting off allowance of right pocket piece along center front. ■ Stitch side seams and inside leg seams. Press seam allowances open. Stitch center front seam from opening mark to inside leg seam. ■ Zipper: Press self-facings to inside, stitch on right along center front and stitch on left 3 ⁄16" (5 mm) before center front. Stitch zipper under left opening edge (underlap), stitching close to teeth. Pin opening closed, matching centers. Pin loose zipper tape to right facing, leaving trouser free. Baste facing. Topstitch opening from upper edge to 1¼" (3 cm) before end as marked. With right sides together, fold underlap piece lengthwise, stitch across bottom end. Turn right-side out. Lay underlap under left opening edge, pin to facing. Stitch facing to underlap, close to zipper joining seam. Lay opening closed again and topstitch to end, catching underlap. ■ Stitch center back seam. Press seam allowances open from upper edges to beginning of curve. ■ Waistband: Stitch center back and side seams of waistband. Press seam allowances open. Stitch outer waistband to upper trousers edge, leaving right waistband end extending from center front and stitch left waistband end to underlap of opening edge. Press seam allowances toward waistband. Lay inside waistband pieces right sides together with stitched waistband pieces, stitch upper edges together. Lay inside waistband pieces up. Press seam allowances open. Trim extending right waistband end to 3 ⁄8" (1 cm) before center front. Attach trousers hook to inside waistband spaced 3⁄8" (1 cm) from right front end. Lay inside waistband to outside. Lay seam allowance at inside waistband edge up at front waistband

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ends. Stitch across waistband ends. Trim seam allowances. Turn waistband right-side out. Turn in inside waistband edge in front as far as zipper, lay remainder of waistband over joining seam not turned in. From trouser right side, stitch inside waistband edge in ditch of attachment seam. Sew fastener bar to waistband to match hook. Stitch buttonhole for inside button in left waistband end. ■ Press hem allowances to inside and hand-stitch in place. Red pattern line, sheets C1-C2 Pattern pieces 1 to 7 Size 44 3333 Size 46 4444 Size 48 55 Size 50 6666 Size 52 7777

134B-

022015-US Animal Print Bootcut Pants  PATTERN AVAILABLE ON INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 44, 46, 48, 50, 52 on page 43 Finished side length, including waistband: 43½" (110 cm) Leg hem circumference: 22" (55 cm)

Materials Cotton stretch twill (striped), 60" (152.5 cm) wide: sizes 44, 46: 1¾ yds (1.45 cm); sizes 48, 50: 2¼ yds (2 m); size 52: 2½ yds (2.20 m) Plain cotton stretch twill, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: ¾ yd (.55 m) for all sizes Interfacing Notions: 1 zipper: sizes 44, 46: 5" (12 cm); sizes 48, 50, 52: 6" (15 cm) long; 1 trouser hook fastener; 1 flat inside button

NZ_BS1404_134T Cutting layouts

Striped stretch twill, 60" (152.5 cm) wide Sizes 44, 46 Fold

Selvedges

Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

Sizes 48, 50 Fold

Preparation Trace pieces 1-7 from pattern sheet. Trace pocket from piece 3 as a separate pattern piece to placement line. Cut out all paper pieces. Stitching line at zipper opening on piece 1 is marked for size 44. Remark stitching line for sizes 46 – 52 same

Selvedges

Size 52 Fold

Fold

Plain stretch twill, 54" (137 cm) wide Sizes 44 – 52

Selvedges Selvedges

Cut from a double layer of fabric, right sides together.

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project instructions

distance from center front as for size 44, noting opening length.

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Striped stretch twill: 1 front trouser, cut 2 3 pocket, cut 2 4 back trouser, cut 2 a) left underlap: sizes 44, 46: 5¼" (13 cm); sizes 48, 50, 52: 6" (15 cm) long; and 4½" (11 cm) wide, excluding seam allowances Plain stretch twill: 2 front yoke, cut 2 3 side hip yoke with cut-on pocket, cut 2 5 back yoke, cut 2 6 front waistband, cut 4 7 back waistband, cut 4 Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.

Construction ■ Stretch seam edges: Lay back trouser pieces right sides together. Stretch inside leg edges above marking by pressing with a steam iron or under a damp cloth until they are as long as on front trouser pieces. ■ Stitch front yokes to front trousers. Stitch back yokes to back trousers. Press seam allowances toward yokes. ■ Hip yoke pockets: With right sides together, stitch pockets to pocket front trouser opening edges. Lay pockets up and understitch close to seam. Turn pockets to inside. Pin pocket opening edges to side hip yokes at placement lines. Stitch pocket pieces together on inside. Baste pockets to underside of front trouser pieces, first cutting off allowance of right pocket piece along center front. ■ Stitch side seams and inside leg seams. Press seam allowances open. Stitch center front seam from opening mark to inside leg seam. ■ Zipper: Press self-facings to inside, stitch on right along center front and stitch on left 3 ⁄16" (5 mm) before center front. Stitch zipper under left opening edge (underlap), stitching close to teeth. Pin opening closed, matching centers. Pin loose zipper tape to right facing, leaving trouser free. Baste facing. Topstitch opening from upper edge to 1¼" (3 cm) before end as marked. With right sides together, fold underlap piece lengthwise, stitch across bottom end. Turn right-side out. Lay underlap under left opening edge, pin to facing. Stitch facing to underlap close to zipper joining seam. Lay opening closed again and topstitch to end, catching underlap.

■ Stitch center back seam. Press seam allowances open from upper edges to beginning of curve. ■ Waistband: Stitch center back and side seams of waistband. Press seam allowances open. Stitch outer waistband to upper trousers edge, leaving right waistband end extending from center front and stitch left waistband end to underlap of opening edge. Press seam allowances toward waistband. Lay inside waistband pieces right sides together with stitched waistband pieces, stitch upper edges together. Lay inside waistband pieces up. Press seam allowances open. Trim extending right waistband end to 3⁄8" (1 cm) before center front. Attach trousers hook to inside waistband spaced 3⁄8" (1 cm) from right front end. Lay inside waistband to outside. Lay seam allowance at inside waistband edge up at front waistband ends. Stitch across waistband ends. Trim seam allowances. Turn waistband right-side out. Turn in inside waistband edge in front as far as zipper, lay remainder of waistband over joining seam not turned in. From trouser right, stitch inside waistband edge in ditch of attachment seam. Sew fastener bar to waistband to match hook. Stitch buttonhole for inside button in left waistband end. ■ Press hem allowances to inside and hand-stitch in place.

135A-

022015-US Square Neckline Top  PATTERN AVAILABLE ON INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 44, 46, 48, 50, 52 on page 44 Finished back length: 24½" (62 cm)

Materials Stretch jersey, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: 15⁄8 yds (1.40 m) for all sizes Notion: Twin stretch needle, size 2.5/75 Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

Preparation Trace pieces 21-25 from pattern sheet. Cut out all paper pieces.

Seam and hem allowances Seams and edges, 5⁄8" (1.5 cm); hem, 1¼" (3 cm); sleeve hems, 1¼" (3 cm)

Black pattern line, sheets A1-A2 Pattern pieces 21 to 25 Size 44 AAAAA Size 46 === Size 48 CCC Size 50 67 67 Size 52 EEEEE

NZ_BS1404_135T Cutting layout

Stretch jersey, 60" (152.5 cm) wide Fold

Fold

Selvedges

Fold

Selvedges

Fold the fabric as shown in the cutting layout, right sides together.

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Stretch jersey: 21 front, cut 1 on fold 22 front band, cut 2 on fold 23 back, cut 1 on fold 24 back band, cut 2 on fold 25 yoke with cut-on sleeve, cut 2 a) neck edge facing strip: size 44: 21" (53 cm); size 46: 21¼" (54 cm); size 48: 22¼" (56 cm); size 50: 22½" (57 cm); size 52: 23¼" (59 cm) long; and 15⁄8" (4 cm) wide, including seam allowances

Construction Note: Stitch seams with a special stretch stitch, narrow zigzag or serging. To keep hems flexible, stitch with a twin needle.

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project instructions

■ Stitch bust darts. Trim dart allowances to ⁄8" (1 cm), neaten edges together, and press down. ■ Stitch center back yoke seam. Neaten seam allowances together and press to one side. ■ With wrong sides together, fold neck edge facing strip lengthwise and press. Pin folded facing strip to neck edge so that folded edge lies on garment piece 3⁄8" (1 cm) past seamline. Stitch along seamline. Trim seam allowances. Turn facing strip to inside, press edge. Topstitch neck edge ¼" (6 mm) from fold using twin needle. ■ Pin one back band from outside (right sides facing), other band on inside (right side facing wrong side) to back lower yoke edge (seam number 4). Stitch exactly between markings. Lay bands down and press. Baste lower band edges together. Stitch back band to back. Press seam allowances down. ■ Pin front bands to front lower yoke edges from outside and inside (seam number 3). Pin upper band edges together in between. Stitch. Lay bands down and press. Baste lower band edges together. Stitch front band to front. Press seam allowances down. ■ Stitch side seams and sleeve seams. Press seam allowances down. ■ Press top and sleeve hem allowances to inside and stitch from right side ¾" (2 cm) from fold using twin needle.

52: 8¾" (22 cm) long; and 15⁄8" (4 cm) wide, including seam allowances Fusible bias stay tape: Fuse to neck and armhole edges and front shoulder seam edges.

3

136-

Construction Black pattern line, sheets B1-B2 Pattern pieces 21 to 24 Size 44 AAAAA Size 46 === Size 48 CCC Size 50 67 67 Size 52 EEEEE

CuttingNZ_BS1404_136T layout Stretch jersey, 60" (152.5 cm) wide Selvedge

Fold

022015-US Knotted Top  PATTERN AVAILABLE ON INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 44, 46, 48, 50, 52 on page 45 Finished back length: 27" (68 cm) 7 ⁄8-sleeves: 21" (53 cm) long

Materials Stretch jersey, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: size 44: 1¾ yds (1.6 m); sizes 46, 48: 17⁄8 yds (1.7 m); sizes 50, 52: 2 yds (1.8 m) Notions: Fusible bias stay tape; twin stretch needle, size 2.5/75 Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

Preparation Trace pieces 21-24 from pattern sheet. Cut out all paper pieces.

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Selvedges Fold the fabric as shown in the cutting layout—right sides together on a double layer; right side up on a single layer. Place the asymmetric front pieces on the right side of the fabric, printed sides up.

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Stretch jersey: 21 right front, cut 1 22 left front, cut 2 23 back, cut 1 on fold 24 sleeve, cut 2 a) back neck edge facing strip: sizes 44, 46: 8" (20 cm); sizes 48, 50: 83⁄8" (21 cm); size

Note: Stitch seams with a special stretch stitch, narrow zigzag or serging. To keep hems flexible, stitch with a twin needle. ■ Stitch bust darts, press darts down. Clip seam allowance at right front neck edge at marking. Press front neck edges to inside, turn in, and stitch ¼" (6 mm) from edge. ■ With right sides together, fold right front on angled seamline so that seams number 1 meet. Stitch from seam number 1 to marking. Trim seam allowances, clip at marking. Unfold front. Press seam allowances up, press to inside at slit. ■ Lay right front on left front with wrong side facing right side. Pull lower piece of left front from the inside out through slit on right front. Lay lower left piece onto left front and stitch seam edges right sides together from seam number 2 to marking. Clip seam allowances at marking. Lay lower piece down again. Press seam allowances up, lay to inside at slit. ■ With right sides together, stitch lower left front to right front from bottom (seam number 4) to corner (at right front marking). Clip seam allowance into corner. Press seam allowances toward right front. ■ Stitch lower edge of left front to seam allowances of right horizontal seam on inside. ■ Stitch shoulder seams (seam number 3). Seam allowances of back extend at neck edge. Press seam allowances forward. ■ Back neck edge: With wrong sides together, fold facing strip lengthwise and press. Pin folded strip to back neck edge so that folded edge lies on garment piece 3⁄8" (1 cm) past seamline. Stitch facing strip. Trim seam allowances. Turn facing strip to inside and stitch ¼" (6 mm) from fold. ■ Stitch side seams (seam number 5). Stitch sleeve seams. ■ Set in sleeves. ■ Press top and sleeve hem allowances to inside. From right side, stitch 1¼" (3 cm) from fold using twin needle.

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project instructions

137-

Seam and hem allowances

PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1pQ2fkN

Cutting

022015-US Wrap Top 

Burda sizes 44, 46, 48, 50, 52 on page 43 Finished back length: 28½" (72 cm)

Materials Jersey, 45" (114.5 cm) wide: sizes 44, 46: 2¼ yds (2.05 m); sizes 48, 50: 2½ yds (2.2 m); size 52: 25⁄8 yds (2.25 m) Notions: Fusible bias stay tape; twin stretch needle, size 2.5/75 Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

Preparation Trace pieces 21-23 from pattern sheet. Cut out all paper pieces.

Seams and edges, 5⁄8" (1.5 cm); hem, 1¼" (3 cm); sleeve hems, 5⁄8" (1.5 cm) Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Jersey: 21 front, cut 2 22 back, cut 1 on fold 23 sleeve, cut 2 a) tie belt, total: size 44: 93" (236 cm); size 46: 94½" (240 cm); size 48: 97" (246 cm); size 50: 99¼" (252 cm); size 52: 101½" (258 cm) long ; and 4¾" (12 cm), excluding seam allowances b) back neck edge facing strip: size 44: 9½" (24 cm); sizes 46, 48: 10" (25 cm); sizes 50, 52: 10¼" (26 cm) long; and 15⁄8" (4 cm) wide, including seam allowances Fusible bias stay tape: Fuse to shoulder seam and back neck edges.

Construction ■ Back neck edge: With wrong sides together, fold facing strip lengthwise and

press. Pin folded facing strip to neck edge so that folded edge of strip lies on garment piece 3⁄8" (1 cm) past seamline. Stitch facing strip. Trim seam allowances. Turn facing strip to inside and stitch ¼" from fold. ■ Gather shoulder edges of fronts between asterisks. Stitch shoulder seams (seam number 1). Seam allowance of fronts extend at neck edge. Trim seam allowances to ¼" (6 mm), neaten edges together, and press toward back. ■ Stitch side seams. Trim seam allowances, neaten edges together, and press toward back. ■ Press hem allowance to inside. From right side, stitch hem 1" (2.5 cm) from fold using twin needle. ■ Press seam allowances on front and front neck edges to inside. Turn in, and stitch ¼" (6 mm) from fold. ■ Press hem allowances on sleeves and sleeve side opening edges to inside, turn in, and press. ■ Stitch sleeves to armhole edges, with hemmed opening edges meet at side seams. ■ With right sides together, fold tie belt lengthwise. Stitch edges together, leaving opening for turning. Turn belt right-side out. Sew up opening.

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sewing basics

· RUCHED KIMONO TOP 108B-082014-US SHORT SKIRT WITH GODET 105A-082014-US

Fabric Manipulation

·

Four construction techniques that also add detail BY AMANDA KAUFMANN

Fabric manipulation is any technique that reshapes and/or adds surface interest to fabric. In fashion, these techniques can be integral to a garment’s construction, or used as embellishments. The most commonly used manipulations come from four main categories: pleats, gathers, smocking, and quilting. Familiarity with these techniques allows you to alter the shape of a garment or simply add interesting details.

worked on the fabric before sewing the garment, or included as part of the garment’s sewing pattern.

·

KNIFE PLEATS: Usually made in uniform sizes (commonly 1" [2.5 cm]), repeated the length of a fabric and pressed in one

Knife pleats

·

direction, knife pleats are often used in skirts to add fullness to the hem while keeping it fitted at the waist. BOX PLEATS: A box pleat is made when two pleats are folded over to meet each other in the middle. They are often found in the center front of a skirt, to provide some fullness to the hem and allow fitting at the waist. These pleats can also be placed in the lower center back seam of a skirt as a kick pleat. A box pleat sewn across its top and bottom may be used on one side of a purse allowing the purse to lie flat when empty and to have extra room when filled. Variations: Some variations of the box pleat include the inverted box pleat and the double box pleat. The inverted box pleat is just the reverse of a box pleat—the two pleats are folded to the inside of the project instead of outside. A double box pleat means that two folds of fabric are folded towards the center on both sides. This provides more fullness at the hem as well as an interesting design choice. ACCORDION PLEATS: These pleats are so named because they resemble the bellows of an accordion and are created by folding the fabric back and forth (like how one would make a paper fan). Normally used in a skirt, with the folds of the fabric running vertically, they provide some fullness at the hem. For the folds to permanently maintain their crease down the fabric length, they need to be professionally heat set. TUCKS: Tucks are small pinches of fabric sewn in repeated or free-form patterns. Like knife pleats, they can vary in size and also reduce the fabric size. For basic

Box pleats

PLEATS

Garment construction The following manipulations need to be

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center front Accordion pleats

Tucks

ILLUSTRATIONS: MISSY SHEPLER

Pleating is essentially pressing and/or sewing a fold of fabric to its side. The fold can be anywhere from 1⁄8" (4 mm), often called a pintuck, to several inches/centimeters. You may also have pleats of varying size in a garment as a style choice. For pleats to stay in place, they are pressed in the desired direction and sewn across the top and/or bottom. The folds on some pleats may also be sewn down along part or all of the length.

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sewing basics tucks, the space between each tuck is equal to the unfolded width of one tuck. Variations: There are many variations in tucks, including altering the space between and the sizes of each tuck. For a close tuck, the space between each tuck is half the width of an unfolded tuck. Pintucks are very narrow in size, generally 1⁄8" (4 mm) width folded. To create a smocked effect, press tucks to stand upright, and then hand-sew one tuck to another at regular intervals. Another variation is “tuck and fold.” This is created by pressing and sewing the tucks in one direction, and then sewing all or some of them back in the opposite direction between the original seams to create a wave effect. How many times you sew them in the opposite direction, and if you fold the entire tuck back, or just half of it, adds creative options to this technique.

Folding shapes

·

EMBELLISHMENT

The following pleating techniques can be used on fabric trims and ribbons applied to garments.

·

BOX PLEATS There are many ways to fold a box pleat on decorative trim, so experimenting with, and combining, the following techniques is recommended. The basic starting point is to create a row of box pleats right next to each other down the length of a trim, and then sew them with one line of stitching down the center. You can also take various sections of the pleats, fold them in different directions, and hand-sew them in place. Variations: These are just a few of the many options. A "pinch top" is when you sew the top edge and the bottom edge of an inverted box pleat together. To make a diamond, pull the top layer of fabric at the center top edge down to the bottom center edge. Create squares by folding all four corners of a box towards the center. Fold the top right and bottom right

Mix and Match Many of these techniques can be found in pattern instructions, but if you’re adding them to a basic pattern, the manipulation should be done before cutting the garment or alter the pattern to include the width needed for the technique, as most will change the fabric/garment size.

corners towards the center to create a triangle. For a houndstooth effect, pull two opposite corners of the box towards the center and repeat down the length of trim. FOLDING SHAPES: To get the same kind of effects of folded box pleats, but with more freedom of movement, cut out fabric shapes and fold them. Use fabric that does not ravel, or create a faced shape by sewing two pieces of fabric together. Start with a basic shape, like a square or circle, and then play around with folding. Individual folded shapes can then be sewn into a circle, row, or design area on the garment.

GATHERS

Gathering fabric is much like pleating, except that the pinches of fabric are almost immeasurably small and don’t need to be uniform in size. The easiest way to create gathers is to sew long running stitches 1 ⁄4" (6 mm) from the cut edge of the fabric leaving tails of thread at each end. Push the edges of the fabric towards each other along the thread to form gathers. The longer the stitches are, the deeper the gathers will be.

· · ·

GATHERING STITCHES are used to fit a larger piece of fabric to a smaller one. Common examples of gathers in garment construction are dirndl skirts (gathers produce full skirts fitted at the waist), the cap of set-in sleeves, and shoulder and waist seams in blouses to allow for bust fullness.

Which fabrics for what? The choice of fabric will affect the success of fabric manipulation techniques, so determine the fabric weight and body related to the intended use. Lightweight, soft fabrics are best for gathers, and lightweight fabrics with body are best for smocking. Use medium-weight fabrics with body for pleats and quilting. Always test the intended technique on scraps of fabric and see how it works. If you need more body, add a lightweight interfacing to the fabric underside.

Shirring

Ruching

Gathering stitches

¼"

RUCHING: The stitches that ruche fabric are the same as gathers, but their application is different. Ruching can be used for a gathered overlay or garment inset and is often sewn to a backing fabric to maintain its shape. Ruching is created by gathering both sides of a fabric section so the gathers run from side to side. This is a common technique used in heirloom sewing.

with ruching and gathering, shirring is created using parallel rows of gathering stitches, sometimes worked in shapes (such as a spiral circle, grid, or free-form), or zigzags. Shirring stitches can be sewn with elastic thread in the bobbin to create fabric with stretch. These shirred pieces are commonly used for dress bodices, especially in childrenswear.

SHIRRING: Often used interchangeably

CONTINUED ON PAGE 110

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machine master

Sewing Challenging Fabrics Tools and techniques to take control BY CHRISTINE CARSON

There is a certain thrill when blindly diving into a sewing project, but advanced sewers sometimes opt to take on a sewing challenge with their eyes wide open. Preparation, planning, and good information can make all the difference in your project, particularly when dealing with challenging fabrics. An important part of preparing for any project is being sure you have the best tools for each task. When it comes to sewing, your machine’s needle, thread, and presser foot all have a direct impact on a project’s final outcome, and are worth careful consideration. Let’s take a closer look at four challenging fabrics and what you need to sew them.

SATIN This fabric is a great choice for evening-wear, graduation gowns, bridesmaid’s dresses, and more. Satin’s light-reflecting sheen and drape make it popular to wear, but its tight weave and slippery nature can make it onerous to sew. For best results, be sure to leave yourself plenty of time to adjust and test your machine’s settings before you begin sewing your satin project. Start by shortening the stitch length and installing a walking foot if you have one. A walking foot will help minimize slippage by feeding both layers of the fabric through the machine at an even pace. Puckering and thread pulls can be resolved by using a new small microtex (sharp) needle and fine lingerie thread. Finally, if your fabric

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is being pulled into the machine needle hole as you sew, consider changing to a single-hole throat plate and/or presser foot or adjusting the needle to the far left positioning. Once you are satisfied with the results on the test fabric, make a note of all your adjustments (including

foot, needle, thread, etc.) and then begin sewing your satin project. Some satin fabrics also ravel very easily, so to keep seams intact, consider binding the seam allowance edges with a lining-weight fabric, or trim and zigzag the edges to minimize the fraying.

Although the name could fool you, the satin stitch on your machine isn’t related to the fabric of the same name. In fact, the two actually aren’t very compatible. A satin stitch is a dense zigzag used for decorative purposes like appliqué or other embellishment. This stitch requires the use of a satin stitch foot, with a recessed underside, to allow the thread bulk to pass under it. Satin stitching can be done using all-purpose thread, or any number of decorative options like rayon, metallic, or acrylic threads. When satin stitching, use a stabilizer under the fabric to prevent tunneling and puckering.

Satin stitch

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VELVET Always luxurious, velvet is a woven fabric created by slicing in half two pieces of fabric that have been woven together, resulting in two lengths of fabric with an even, dense pile. While this pile makes velvet wonderfully tactile to wear, it creates a great challenge even for advanced sewers prepared to take their time. Start the project right by using a fresh, universal needle in a size corresponding to the velvet weight. The thread type will depend on the fiber content of the velvet. A high-quality polyester thread is a good option, unless you are sewing silk velvet, in which case silk or mercerized cotton thread is recommended. Use a presser foot that will help feed the fabric evenly while minimizing shifting as you sew. Depending on the make and model of your machine, you may have the option of using a velvet foot (like Janome has for their 1600P series), although you can achieve great results with a walking or roller foot as well. Be sure to try the presser foot on a scrap of the project velvet. If your presser foot leaves marks on the velvet, try reducing the presser foot pressure. If marks are still left, try a different presser foot.

Sewing hint Be sure to sew a test seam on a scrap of any difficult fabric. Once you get the desired results, note the machine settings, presser foot, and thread used. This can streamline the set-up process in the future.

DENIM Many a beginner sewer has experienced the frustration of attempting to sew denim without the proper tools. This rugged and sometimes thick fabric can bend and break sewing machine needles, snap threads, and even damage lightweight sewing machines. Using denim-specific tools and techniques will minimize any issues. Start by choosing a denim needle. This is a strong, reinforced needle with a modified tip, and it’s made to handle the challenge of sewing through multiple layers of dense fabric. Denim thread is the most suitable thread to use because it provides the durability needed for sewing thick fabrics, and it comes in a variety of fashionable denim colors including oranges and yellows for topstitching. Denim thread options vary from

heavy duty 100% cotton to poly/cotton blends. Take the time to choose the foot and settings on your machine that are best suited for denim. A good example is the BERNINA Jeans foot #8 for straight stitching on heavy fabrics. This foot is paired with a straight-stitch plate, and together they provide additional stability that can solve many denim-sewing issues. Finally, some sewers use a simple plastic tool called a “Hump Jumper” or “Jean-a-ma-jig”. Both are simple, inexpensive plastic tools that fit behind the machine presser foot. They act as a shim to keep the presser foot level, allowing you to sew over flat-felled and other thick seams without skipped or uneven stitches or bending the needle.

SPANDEX A slippery and stretchy knit, these two qualities make spandex versatile and great to wear, but challenging to sew. Start off with a jersey or stretch needle. Both machine needles have a medium ballpoint tip (instead of a sharp tip) suitable for knits, and a stretch needle is specially designed for extreme stretch fabric like swimwear. The wearability of a spandex garment depends on stretchable, comfortable seams. To achieve this, many clothing manufactures use texturized nylon (or polyester) thread. While it’s not widely used for conventional sewing machines (because the stretchy thread can wreak havoc with your machine tension mechanism), many sewers hand-wind it onto the bobbin. Hand-winding maintains the thread’s elasticity, and when paired with a polyester upper thread, the resulting seams are flexible with excellent stretch recovery. It’s ideal for use in serger loopers as well. Wavy seams are another common spandex sewing issue. Some machines offer adjustable presser foot pressure, and reducing the pressure while sewing spandex will help alleviate rippling seams. Another way to reduce wavy seams is to use a walking foot (with this, upper and lower feed dogs simultaneously feed the fabric under the needle) to help alleviate stretching, slipping, and puckering.

Sewing has always been a part of CHRISTINE CARSON's life. She enjoys sewing dresses and costumes, but most of all, she loves being inspired by fabrics and notions. Christine lives in Toronto.

FROM THE EDITOR “Another way to sew with spandex is to use your serger for all the internal seams and only use your regular sewing machine for finishing edges. When sewing spandex with your serger, if you’re working with a pattern that requires seam allowances to be added, make sure to measure the stitch width to determine how much seam allowance to add to the pattern. You’ll also want to barely stretch the spandex fabric while serging, or adjust the differential feed mechanism to reduce puckering or stretching. Use the

conventional sewing machine to hem edges and zigzag them in place, or topstitch with a twin needle to make your garment look storebought! —meg healy, online editor

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giveaway KEEP YOUR GARMENTS PROPERLY PRESSED WITH THIS LAURASTAR STEAM GENERATOR MODEL LIFT ($749 VALUE). VALUE) FOR YOUR CHANCE TO WIN, GO TO BURDASTYLE.COM/BLOG/ LAURASTAR-GIVEAWAY AND TELL US YOUR BEST EMBELLISHING TIP.

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preview

Gelerie S., winner of the Inspira Studio by ClosetMaid Thread Cabinet giveaway from our last issue, shares her best tip for handling fine fabrics: “With silk or other fabrics that tend to unravel or fray easily, after tracing a pattern piece outline on my fabric, I then place a line of Fray Check directly onto the outline before I cut. Works every time!” MORE GREAT BURDASTYLE MEMBER TIPS FOR WORKING WITH TRICKY FABRICS: “Instead of hemming or using bias tape, use satin rattail cord or fishing line to give more shape on the hem edge of airy light fabric, such as organza, tulle, and net.” — Dessy D.

Have a tip to share? Become a member at BurdaStyle.com to share tips, ideas, and upload your project photos.

… SUMMER 2015

WE’RE HAPPY TO ANNOUNCE AN EXCITING SURPRISE COMING WITH THE NEXT ISSUE OF BURDASTYLE! STARTING WITH THE COMING SUMMER 2015 ISSUE, YOU’LL BE GETTING THE PHYSICAL UP NEXT PATTERNS FOR EVERY SINGLE BURDASTYLE GARMENT IN THE ISSUE! THAT MEANS UPWARDS OF 50 FULL-SIZE PATTERNS! SO STAY TUNED FOR MORE OF WHAT YOU LOVE (SEWING PATTERNS!) PLUS SOME NEW PAGES, EXTRA GIVEAWAYS, AND EVEN MORE FROM YOUR FELLOW BURDASTYLE MEMBERS. THE NEXT BURDASTYLE US WILL BE AVAILABLE IN JULY, 2015 106

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sew this!

Step-by-Step Project

Recommended fabric: Blouse fabrics

BS1402_104WS_T SHOPPING LIST:

Nähschule • Piqué, 54"BurdaStyle (137 cm) wide: sizes 34, 36: 7⁄8 yd (.8 m); sizes 38, 40, 42: 1 yd (.9 m) • Interfacing NOTIONS: • 1 invisible zipper, 16" (40 cm) long, and special presser foot • 20" (.5 m) flat bias tape, 1 5⁄8" (4 cm) wide

Princess Seam Boatneck Top

• Sewing thread • Pattern paper • Pencil • Scissors • Measuring tape/ruler

This off-the-shoulder neckline enhances the décolleté and highlights the shoulders to create one stunning springtime style!

THE TOP PATTERN PIECES… … are shaded pink on the pattern sheet to make them easy to find. Lay pattern paper over the pattern insert and pin it in place. Trace all pattern pieces in the desired size, and transfer all markings. It will be easier to cut out the fabric pieces if you copy pieces 5 and 6 twice each. SEWING HINT: To find your correct size, measure your bust: size 34 = 311 ⁄2" (80 cm); size 36 = 33" (84 cm); size 38 = 34 3⁄4" (88 cm); size 40 = 36 1⁄4" (92 cm); size 42 = 37 3⁄4" (96 cm). Size Size Size Size Size

34 36 38 40 42

22 33 44 5 66

Extra pattern, shaded pink, sheets A1 and A2: pattern pieces 1 to 8

• Straight pins • Tailor’s chalk • Hand-sewing needles

THE CUTTING LAYOUT… ...shows how pattern pieces are to be laid on the fabric and how to pin them in place. 1 Center front 2 Side front 3 Center back 4 Side back 5 Sleeve front 6 Sleeve back 7 Front facing 8 Back facing

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Piqué, 54” (137 cm) wide Sizes 34 – 42 Fold

Selvedges

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sew this!

Right side of fabric

Wrong side of fabric

CUTTING PIQUÉ, ALL SIZES

INTERFACING

TRANSFER MARKINGS TO FABRIC

1

2

3

CENTER BACK SEAM

FRONT AND BACK SECTION SEAMS

RIGHT SIDE SEAM

4

5

Fold the fabric in half lengthwise with right sides together. Lay pattern pieces 1 to 8 on the folded fabric, with pieces 1, 7, and 8 on the fold. Pin in place. Cut out fabric pieces.

Place the center back pieces right sides together. Pin the center back edges together and stitch the seam. Press the seam open and neaten the edges of the seam allowances.

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Interfacing

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Fold the interfacing in half, with the adhesive side facing in. Lay pieces 7 and 8 on it and pin in place. Cut out interfacing pieces. Fuse each interfacing piece to the wrong side of the corresponding fabric piece.

Place the side front pieces on the center front piece, right sides together. Pin the section seams; stitch. Place the side back pieces to the center back piece, right sides together, and pin the section seams. Stitch. Press all seams open and neaten the edges of the seam allowances.

Use tailor's chalk or tracing wheel to transfer markings to the wrong side of the cut pattern pieces.

6

Place the front unit on the back unit, right sides together. Pin the right side edges together and stitch the right seam. Press the seam open and neaten the edges of the seam allowances.

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sew this! INVISIBLE ZIPPER, FIRST HALF

INVISIBLE ZIPPER, SECOND HALF

7

Close the zipper. Lay the second zipper tape on the back left side edge and pin the lower end of the zipper tape in place. Open the zipper. Stitch the second zipper half in place, from the lower edge to the marked end of the opening (with the needle to the right of the teeth). Close the zipper.

8

Place the front on the back, right sides together. Pin the side edges together, above the marking, turning the zipper end out of the way. Stitch the seam from the armhole edge to as close to the end of the zipper as possible. Press the seam open and neaten the edges of the seam allowances, including those on the zipper slit edges. Neaten the hem edge. Press the hem allowance to the inside and hand-stitch in place. Sew the hem allowance to the zipper tapes.

SLEEVES

ARMHOLES

NECK EDGES

11

12

Lay the open zipper right sides down on the front left side edge, 1⁄4" (6 mm) from the opening edge. The zipper teeth begin at the marked hem line. Using the special presser foot (with needle to the left of the teeth), stitch the zipper in place from the lower edge to the marked opening end. PHOTOS: U2/ULI GLASEMANN. ILLUSTRATIONS: ELKE TREIER-SCHÄFER AND MISSY SHEPLER. EDITING: HEIDEMARIE TENGLER.

LEFT SIDE SEAM, HEM

10

With right sides together, lay the sleeve fronts on the sleeve backs. Stitch the shoulder edges together (seam number 6).Press seams open. For each sleeve, lay two sleeve units together, right sides facing. Stitch the long edges together. Trim the seam allowances. Turn the sleeves rightside out and press. Lay each sleeve on the front (seam number 4) and the back (seam number 5), right sides together, and baste in place.

Fold the bias tape in half lengthwise and press. Pin the folded bias tape to each armhole edge so that the open edges lie 1⁄4" (6 mm) from the fabric edge. The ends overlap the sleeves 1 5⁄8" (4 cm). Working from the wrong side, stitch along the marked armhole edge, catching the sleeve and the bias tape. Trim the seam allowances. Turn the bias tape and seam allowances to the inside and press. Below each sleeve, topstitch 1 ⁄4" (6 mm) from the armhole edge.

9

Pin the front facing to the front neck edge and the back facing to the back neck edge, right sides together. The seam allowances on the facing side edges extend past the sleeve attachment seams. Stitch along the marked neck edge. Trim seam allowances. Turn each facing up. Press seam allowances toward the facing then understitch. Turn the narrow facing edges under. Turn facings to inside and press. Hand-stitch the facings to the sleeve attachment seams. SPRING 2015

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sewing basics CONTINUED FROM PAGE 103

Ruffles

·

RUFFLES: Gathering stitches down a long strip of fabric produces ruffles. If the stitches are sewn along the long edge of the fabric, it creates a frill that can be sewn onto a garment, like the bottom edge of a skirt. When the gathering stitch is sewn down the middle, it creates a double ruffle. Ruffles can be applied anywhere—a neckline, sleeve edge, waistline, or decoratively around a garment hem. If the strip of fabric is cut on the bias, it does not need to have an edge finish. Bias-cut ruffles also form the base of fabric rosettes.

SMOCKING

There are two main categories of smocking: English and American. English smocking is decorative, provides stretch, and is often used in the bodices of children’s clothing. American smocking is also decorative, but it is thicker and more robust, and more formal in aesthetic.

·

ENGLISH SMOCKING is a combination of shirring fabric and embroidery. The first step is to create even rows of gathering stitches and shirr the fabric. Then hand-sew the top edges of two adjacent

English smocking

·

gathers (often referred to as pleats) together with a small knot. Sew the same two gathers together further down from the first knot (about 1" [2.5 cm]). Repeat sewing two adjacent gathers together with evenly spaced intervals until you’ve worked the whole fabric. Then remove the gathering stitches. Popular stitching patterns include honeycomb, cable, and trellis. English smocking can reduce the original length of fabric to 1⁄3 of its original size. AMERICAN SMOCKING creates puffed-up shapes on the right side of the fabric by connecting points of a grid in a pattern on the wrong side. It’s easiest to work this technique by marking the grid lines on the back first. What creates the shapes on the right side is a combination of pulling the thread tightly when connecting some dots and leaving the thread loose when connecting other dots. Possible shape patterns include lattice, waves, arrows, grid (creates rectangles), and boxes. How much the fabric reduces in size depends on what type of pattern you choose.

Hand-tied quilting

Trapunto

Cut-surface

QUILTING

Quilting is joining multiple layers of fabric and filler together. Often flannel or batting is sandwiched between the fabric layers. The stitching provides the design element. The designs sewn can be motifs, free-form patterns, grids, channels, or a combination of the above.

· ·

HAND-TIED: Hand-tied quilting is an alternative to sewing rows of stitches. After sandwiching the fabrics, use embroidery thread or yarn to go through all layers and tie a secure knot on the top side of the fabric. Space these knots in a pattern, or randomly. TRAPUNTO: Trapunto is hand-stuffing shapes sewn into two layers of fabric. The shapes can be isolated, or cover the whole fabric in a pattern. Sew the

·

shapes into the fabric first. Then on the backside of the piece, cut a tiny hole into the fabric and stuff. After stuffing the shape, hand-sew the hole closed. Each shape is individually stuffed. CUT-SURFACE: One can use this technique as an alternative to sewing decorative stitches as well as to add more texture to the garment. To do, sew a shape through all three layers (e.g. a circle) and a line down its center. Then snip the top layer of fabric and the batting around the border stitching inside the shape, stopping at the middle seam. The top layer and batting are removed, revealing the backing.

FROM THE EDITOR “You can also get your fabric professionally pleated. There are two primary methods used: Machine Pleating, where fabric is fed into a machine and folded, and Pattern Pleating, where fabric is placed between two pleated cardboard molds and set with steam.” —alana walsh, assistant editor

American smocking

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top 10

WE ASKED, YOU ANSWERED! What’s your best fabric care tip? 1. Marseille soap

[a natural vegetable oil soap] has a neutral scent and washes out any stain! Just use the soap and wash the garment by hand. On heavy stains, wash it by hand first, leave some soap on, then machine wash. — Abigail G., Antwerp, Belgium

5. I use the

original blue Dawn dish soap to get

out tomato sauce or grease stains. Just dab it on the stain, rub with cold water, and the stain comes out every time! — Bethany A., Cleveland, Ohio

6. Washing delicate fabrics, costume fabric, sequined fabric, and special lingerie fabrics in

zipped lingerie bags helps keep fabric or garments from being ruined, and also prevents

pre-wash my cottons and sturdy knits intentionally in warm to hot water, depending on the weight/ texture/color of the fabric. This way, it prevents accidental shrinkage later, should I make a laundry mistake!

ILLUSTRATION: SHEILA LAM

new fabrics, always use white vinegar or a color catcher sheet to prevent the fabric colors from running. — Ivory H., Washington, DC

it saves money and the fibers in my fabric feel better to the touch. I use Borax, washing soda, baking soda, OxiClean, FelsNaptha, and Purex crystals to make my detergent. — Erica J., Baltimore, Maryland

8. For hand-

washables, including hand-knits, I use

— Lisa J., Richmond, California

9. Before pressing

3. I freeze fabric in

4. When washing

7. I have started

making my own detergent because

detergent compartment of my front-loading washer. I use the hand-wash cycle and then do a slow spin only. This way I can avoid felting wools, but do not have to deal with wringing water out of heavy, wet wool.

— Mary M., San Diego, California

— Jasmine B., Toronto, Canada

— Virginia G., Elk Grove, California

unscented baby shampoo in the

2. I always

my freezer overnight. This strengthens synthetic fabrics to prevent snags, runs, or pilling. If using vintage fabric, freezing lifts out unpleasant odors, and kills any tag-along critters.

unraveling when you don’t have a serger or time to zigzag edges.

MAKE IT! 122-022015-US Tulle Wedding Gown on page 51

a new fabric, I always pre-test a scrap using a press cloth to determine the correct iron heat setting. Silk organza works well as a press cloth because it’s strong, thin, and somewhat transparent, but I also keep a square of thin cotton handy as well. — Karen N., Seattle, Washington

10. I carry baby wipes around with

me in my purse for any accidental spills so I can catch them before they set in. — Lee Ann H., Houston, Texas

Want to share your insider tip? For our next issue, we want to know: What is your top embellishment tip? Visit burdastyle.com/blog/top-10-embellishment-techniques and fill us in! SPRING 2015

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inspiration

M A K E A STA T EM EN T Make new from old

Re-fashion Keep your sense of style alive by repurposing your favorite printed T-shirt

Think of your favorite old T-shirt as a source of fabric for creating some ever-so-cute projects. Simply trace your desired outline onto the T-shirt. Cut a matching backing piece from a fabric with more structure and durability. With right sides together, sew the outer edges of the two fabrics together, then turn. For a market bag, join the inside top of the handle. To make a bib, sew the entire inner hole, then add hook-and-loop tape at the back neck.

COMIC CH IC

FROM THE EDITOR “I sewed this into a long, narrow bag to hold my post-yoga fuel — a water bottle and energy bar.” —alicyn stensaas, emedia production coordinator 112

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PHOTOS: JAN SCHMIEDEL. PRODUCTION: DIANE SCHROLL.

Y LE COLLEGE ST

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’s

Favorite Bloggers

House of Pinheiro houseofpinheiro. blogspot.com

THE VOTES ARE IN, AND YOU’VE LET US KNOW YOUR 50 FAVORITE BLOGGERS!

Top 50 Blogs for Sewing Enthusiasts is a free download, now available on burdastyle.com. See the best inspiration and instruction on the web, as chosen by stitchers like you!

OonaBaloona oonaballoona.com

DIY Style Lifestyle Vintage Beginner-friendly

DOWNLOAD THE TOP 50 BEST BLOGS FOR SEWING ENTHUSIASTS AT:

burdastyle.com/freedownloads BurdaStyle Top Bloggers ad.indd 3

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My Color. My Look. My Thread.

Featuring Dual Duty XP®All Purpose Thread

makeitcoats.com

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Pattern Design Courtesy of Angela Wolf. www.angelawolfpatterns.com 14-038 © 2014 Coats & Clark. All rights reserved. Coats & Clark is a registered trademark.


Burda Style US Edition Spring 2015