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2020 | MAGAZINE OF THE CONFRÉRIE DE LA CHAÎNE DES RÔTISSEURS


A Message from the Bailli Délégué Chers Confrères et Consoeurs, Today, you are receiving this electronic edition of the magazine which has been in the works for the past few months. As we transition to a new board, we should see it as a sign of unity and a desire to work together to strengthen the future of our wonderful society. You will discover wonderful national, regional, and local events all written and photographed by our regional and local Chargé(e)s de Presse. They have done a fantastic job and we are so thankful for their hard work The COVID-19 pandemic has altered our lives, but not our spirit. We are all in this together and only together we will fight and overcome a situation that will require our determination, hope, and love for the Chaîne. Some day we will be back to the pleasures of the table as the most magical and memorable moments happen when we are surrounded by our Chaîne friends with food and wine. In the current uncertain context, we need to be patient, resilient, and safe. Among the praises many of you deserve, I feel that a special recognition should be attributed to all of the Baillis, Baillis Provinciaux, and National & Regional Officers as they are the ones that are on the front lines, making things happen for all of us. They have worked tirelessly for the membership and have really made it possible for us to all enjoy the Chaine. No words can be strong enough to express our deepest gratitude to this very special group of people who volunteer their free time as though it were a full time job. All of these people from the East Coast to the West Coast are instrumental to the success of our Society. Merci beaucoup! I would like to close on three recommendations: •

Stay safe, but do yourself a favor by only drinking good wine.

If you feel lonely, wear your ribbon as it will reconnect you with your Chaîne friends.

Live for the moment and know that we will reconnect socially through the Chaine someday soon

Enjoy your reading! Bien amicalement et vive la Chaîne! Bertrand Bailli Délégué

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Who We Are

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The Bailliage des États-Unis, or United State Bailliage, is part of a global community whose focus is conviviality, friendship, camaraderie and sharing a passion for the culinary arts. It is the oldest and largest food and wine society in the world. Our society is vintage, but our events are cutting edge! The chapter in the United States comprising 10 regions is now in its 60th year with about 6,000 gourmands, gourmets, gastronomes, chefs, restaurateurs, hoteliers, oenologists, winery owners, sommeliers, food and wine educators, and others interested in the finest of dining and life experiences and enjoying the camaraderie of friends at dinners and events.

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Chaîne des Rôtisseurs 2020 SPECIAL THANKS TO THE OUTGOING CHARGÉS DE PRESSE TEAM

WELCOME TO THE INCOMING CHARGÉS DE PRESSE TEAM

PUBLISHER & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF HONORAIRE

CHARGÉE DE PRESSE ETAS-UNIS

Marie Addario

Renee Wilmeth

CHARGÉS DE PRESSE PROVINCIAUX

CHARGÉS DE PRESSE PROVINCIAUX

Caribbean/Atlantic Islands Isabella Overend

Caribbean/Atlantic Islands (interim) Bailli Provincial Isabella Overend

Far West Sheryle Ulyate

Far West Sheryle Ulyate

Hawaii/Pacific Islands Kathryn Nicholson

Hawaii/Pacific Islands David Greenlee

ioverend@townehotel.com

ioverend@gmail.com

sulyate@cox.net

sulyate@cox.net

kathryn@kathrynnicholson.org

dwgreenlee@gmail.com

Mid-Atlantic Paul Koulogeorge

Mid-Atlantic Paul Koulogeorge

paul.koulogeorge@att.net

paul.koulogeorge@att.net

Midwest Kathy Merchant

Midwest Kathy Merchant

kathychainecdpp@gmail.com

kathychainecdpp@gmail.com

Northeast Helen Cappuccino

Northeast Marshall Berenson

helencapp@aol.com

bailli@chaineboston.com

Pacific Northwest Robin Du Brin

Pacific Northwest Robin Du Brin

rdubrin@columbiadubrin.com

rdubrin@columbiadubrin.com

South Central Mary Maeser

South Central Sandy Bridger

mmaeser@sc.rr.com

Southeast John Flammang

alebaba@nc.rr.com

ART & DESIGN

Southeast John Flammang

flammang@gmail.com

artattack!creative

flammang@gmail.com

Southwest Kathy Shay

COVER PHOTO

Southwest Kathy Shay

kathy.shay7@gmail.com

Cashman Photo

kathy.shay7@gmail.com

Published by the U.S. Confrérie de la Chaîne des Rôtisseurs. ©2020 Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, Ltd., a New York not-for-profit corporation. All rights reserved. No part of this periodical may be reproduced without the permission of the publisher.

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A Message from the Editor-in-Chief Honoraire In my first “Letter from the Editor” in the fall of 2014, I wrote that Gastronome was our strongest member to member connection. At the time that’s all we had in our communication tool box. Now with social media and advanced online capabilities we have a variety of ways to communicate. Moving to this new Gastronome and our online magazine, Cuvée, along with our interactive website we continue to move forward. It’s been a glorious 6 years serving as your editor-in-chief, working with our dedicated staff through limitless hours of revamps and updates of our magazines Gastronome and Gastronome Extra! Together with our regional charges de press we have provided over 30 publications of Gastronome and Gastronome Extra! in which we have cameoed a number of our great Chaîne chefs and marveled at their culinary talents and rises to fame…masters like Jacques Pépin, Jean-Yves Vendeville, John Coletta, John Folse, Tom Macrina, Yono Purmono, and Mark Wright to name a few. We have traveled the world of La Chaîne by publishing the many stories of our Chaîne tours and cruises of our members who participated and those intrepid among us who led them. We have reported on our Foundation’s philanthropic events and the young chefs and sommeliers who have succeeded in their professions because of the contributions that we have made. What I am most proud of, however, is the countless number of stories we have published at our grass roots level—our bailliage and Mondiale events… hundreds of stories—all with their own style and vim. The creativity and devotion of our baillis and local officers is mind-boggling and so very much appreciated. The plan for the new Gastronome magazine is to illuminate who we are and what we do and feature the best of the best of our organization so our membership may use it to promote our mission and help insure the health and vigor of our organization for years to come. Truly yours in La Chaîne,

Marie C. Addario Chargée de Presse des Etats‐Unis Honoraire Editor-in-Chief, Gastronome and Cuvée

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OUR FOUNDATION THE mission of the Confrérie de la Chaîne des Rôtisseurs Foundation, Inc. is to advance public awareness of the U.S. Confrérie de la Chaîne des Rôtisseurs—its history, purpose and programs—through scholarships, charitable giving and educational activities. The Chaîne Foundation raises money each year that is distributed in the form of scholarships not only for young chefs, but also for young aspiring professionals in the oenological field and has raised and given away more than $4,000,000 since its inception.

Among the larger beneficiaries and some of the most recent to have received scholarships for students have included the following: : American Academy of Culinary Arts : American Culinary Federation Education Foundation, Inc. : Culinary Institute of America : Fairleigh Dickinson University : Horry Georgetown Tech College

THE CHAÎNE’S PHILANTHROPY

: Johnson & Wales University

The Confrérie de la Chaîne des Rôtisseurs was formed in late 1959 and held its first induction in January 1960. Even before its founding, its members were philanthropic. The first Bailli Délégué/National President, Paul A. Spitler, was a founder of the Culinary Institute of America in 1946, served as its Board Chairman and Director and contributed to it. That spirit of giving and “paying it forward” in the culinary world ­continues today. The Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, Bailliage des États-Unis, unites professional and amateur gastronomes in a private, not-for-profit society committed to promoting the culinary arts and those of enology and hospitality through example, education, and encourages the development of young professionals by awarding scholarships and sponsoring competitions and, as part of an international organization, fosters friendships among members around the world.

: Kapiolani Community College

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: Kendall College, Chicago, Illinois : Orange Coast College : University of California Davis, Enology program : University of Nevada Las Vegas The Foundation has had only six Chairs since its creation in 1993, including David A. Wilson Burton, H. Hobson, John F. Burris, Stephen J. Gerkin, Sheldon Margolis, and John H. Burson. In 2011 the Foundation Chair Shelly Margolis created a “Foundation Friends Program”. Following this in 2016, the Foundation Chair John Burson added to Shelly’s idea the concept of a specific endowment which would be funded by a donation of a least $10,000. C


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FOUNDATION FRIENDS Endowments L Marie & Dominick Addario Endowed Fund L L Clyde Braunstein Endowed Fund L L Barbara & John Burson Endowed Fund L L Shelly Margolis Endowed Fund L L Robert & Nadine Pressner Endowed Fund L L Michael & Mary Ann Ty Young Chef Endowed Fund L L Barbara & Irwin Weinberg Endowed Fund L

Annual Gifts Jacqueline A. Allen

Young & Keith L. Chappell

Steve & Tami Gross

William Solomon

Jose Almodovar

Douglas Edward Cohen

Bill Joy

Mont P. Stern

Bailliage de Hillsborough

Bert P. Cutino

Cheryl & Steve C. Kenny

Jeanne & Bryan Stirrat

Judith Marcia Bardwick

Eugene F. Daly

Gerald Kraft

Ronald and Deidra Stitch

William R Eckerle

John T. Mayer

Sally Swanson

Don Barry Michael D. Belsley William H. Bonifas James E. Burr

George Elliot Ira & Melissa Falk Ray K. Farris, II

B. Theo Mellion Maurice W. Nicholson Christopher E. & Marie Robb Ann Sanford

Jane & John Burson Foundation

Karen Fine

John & Barbara Burson

Bradley F. Glasco

In recognition of the Santa Barbara/ Ojai Bailliage, 1986-2020

Helen Cappuccino

David William Greenlee

Harold & Susan Small

David Szkutak Michael Ty Susan & Bill Vareschi Randall M. Webb Irwin Weinberg The Andrews Winslow Foundation

NOTE: Endowments of $10,000 or more will be maintained as principal with only yearly income supporting the purposes of the Foundation. Donors will be acknowledged in perpetuity.

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IN AD 1248, Louis IX, the French King ordered the establishment of several professional guilds including that of the “Ayeurs” or goose roasters. The purpose of this guild was to improve the technical knowledge of its members: apprentices, tradesmen and masters. In 1509, during the reign of Louis XII, the guild’s knowledge was extended to include the preparation of other meats and poultry, including game, and it took the name “Rôtisseurs”. In 1610 the creation of its Coat of Arms took place and featured two crossed spits and four larding utensils in the center, surrounded by the flames of the hearth. In today’s version, this historic emblem is encircled by fleursde-lys and two chains with the new name of the association in between. The inner chain represents the professional members, while the outer chain symbolizes the nonprofessional members. For more than four centuries the Confrérie des Rôtisseurs cultivated and developed the culinary arts. It met all the requirements of professionalism demanded by the “Royal Table”, until 1793 when the guild system was dissolved during the French Revolution. In 1950 in France, Dr. Auguste Bécart, the well-known journalists Jean Valby and Curnonsky (elected ‘Prince of Gastronomes’) and Chefs Louis Giraudon and Marcel Dorin revived the association founding the “Confrérie de la Chaîne des Rôtisseurs”. Ten years later, in 1959, The Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, Bailliage des ÉtatsUnis, or United State Bailliage, was founded to carry on the established traditions. C

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Jeunes Chefs (Young Chefs) Rôtisseurs Competition…

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To encourage and promote the culinary expertise of young Chefs under the age of 27 (Competitors must be born on or after October 1, 1994 to be eligible) by exposing them to a competitive environment with their peers. This competition will offer the opportunity for the Jeunes Chef Rôtisseurs to showcase their talents and creativity in a fair, unbiased, and professional forum.

ABOUT THE COMPETITION THE first competition was organized in 1977 in Switzerland to support and promote future young chefs by giving them the opportunity to demonstrate their skills. Competitions are held at regional, national and international levels in countries around the world that have a strong Chaîne presence. The competition was started in 1990 in the United States and continues to grow every year. It has been featured on the TV Food Network and CNN. Our winner in the United States in 2011, Reilly Mehan, went on to win the International Young Chef Competition put on by the Confrérie de la Chaîne des Rôtisseurs. His culinary career and life have been changed forever as a result of this competition and his experience. In the USA, competition begins at the regional level. Proprietors, managers, chefs and culinary instructors at Chaîne affiliated restaurants, hotels, culinary schools and Chaîne members within each of the ten regions of the Bailliage des Etats-Unis can propose candidates, who complete and submit application forms to a Regional Coordinator, the Conseiller Culinaire Provincial. Contestants are then selected from the group of applicants. CUVÉE EXTRA 2020

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INTERNATIONAL YOUNG CHEF COMPETITION OUR CHAÎNE CHEFS FOR NATIONAL JEUNES CHEFS RÔTISSEURS COMPETITION 2019 : Robert Phillips

: Byron Bardy

: Rikk Panzera

: Shawn Culp

: Thomas Hannum

: Thomas Macrina

: Mark Wright

: Yono Purnomo

PASTRY CHEF COMPETITION: : Mark Wright

: Thomas Macrina

: Byron Bardy

: Thomas Hannum

PITTSBURGH TECHNICAL COLLEGE: : Conseillier Culinaire Midwest Honoraire/ Chef Norman Hart, CEC, CCE, AAC, HGT : Maitre Rotisseur/Chef Andrea CarrosSchrenk, CEPC. CEC, AAC : Chef Amanda Flesch CC : Chef Don Hutchins, CEC, CCE : Chef David Russo, CC : Chef Gregg Flasik

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WITH a profound respect for the values and traditions of cuisine and fine dining, our fellowship encourages the training of young chefs worldwide through the Jeunes Chef Rôtisseurs Competition. This annual event offers young chefs the opportunity to demonstrate their culinary skills in a competitive environment with their peers. This competition is open to chefs up to 27 years of age with less than five years of professional experience. On the day of the competition each contestant is given an identical, previously unidentified “market basket” containing certain basic ingredients. Using all of these ingredients, the contestant need to compose and execute a three course menu (first course, main course, and dessert) for four people. The written menu must be completed within the first half-hour, with three and a half hours allowed for preparation, after which the finished dishes are presented for judging. The mystery basket is set by the Conseiller Culinaire, and the regional Vice-Conseiller Culinaire coordinates the competition at a regional level. Competitors must be working in one of our member establishments, and after winning a Regional competition, qualify to enter the National competition. The National winner then competes in the International competition held in a different member country every year. C


PACIFIC NORTHWEST REGION ↓ BY MICHELE HEIDT, Officier

THE Seattle Bailliage is proud of hosting the April 2019 Regional Jeunes Chef Rôtisseurs Competition at the Culinary School at Renton Technical College. The competition was fierce and the scores were very close. The participating young Chefs were: Sean Arakaki, Dallas Conroy, Aleta Diederich, Delaney Marshall, Nathan Parrish and Cedar Roberts. The success of such competitions relies on the dedication and experience of many. Chef Herve LeBiavant, Conseiller Culinaire Provincial oversaw the competition assisted by Michele Heidt, Officier, Seattle Chapter. The very difficult task of grading the taste, presentation and originality fell to dedicated professional Chefs: Maitre Rotisseur Sean Ellis, Executive Chef, Westin Hotel Seattle; Branden Karrow, Executive Chef, Ethan Stowell Restaurants; Maitre Rôtisseur Brandon LaVielle, owner, Lavish Roots Catering & President ACF, WA Chapter; Maximillian Petty, Chef and Owner Eden Hill Restaurant; Maitre Rotisseur David Wynne, Culinary Educator; Maitre Rotisseur Tamas Ronyai, Owner, Atelier TR. Rating the competitors on kitchen techniques, skills, product utilization, professionalism, sanitation and timing were: Maitre Rotisseur

Tony Parker, Renton Technical College Head Instructor & immediate past President, ACF, WA Chapter; Chef Robert Saia, Culinary Educator, Renton Technical College; Chef Herve LeBiavant, orchestrated all aspects of the kitchen operations. These young competitors always surprise with their talent and creativity. Using the required ingredients of the mystery basket complemented by standard Par Stock, they created very aggressive menus and challenging dishes, all in 4 ½ hours. Special thanks to Justin Marx of North American Meats & More, Charlie’s Produce, Pedersen’s Rental, and to Chevalier Christopher Chan for Washington State wines for the post competition lunch. Thank you also to Doug Medbury, Dean of the Culinary School and Chef Tony Parker, Head Instructor for opening their doors on a Sunday and being outstanding supporters of the Chaîne. Top Honor and the silver medal was bestowed to Chef Nathan Parrish, who proudly represented the Pacific Northwest region in the Chaîne regional competition on June 1, 2019. C

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FAR WEST REGIONAL YOUNG CHEFS COMPETITION ↑ BY SHERYLE ULYATE, Chargée de Presse

SATURDAY March 2, 2019 was competition day for Far West Regional Young Chefs a Jury of prestigious chefs arrived at Orange Coast Community College before sunrise to begin preparations for the cooking requirements of 5 Savory and 4 Pastry contestants arriving at 8:00 a.m. Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Robert Phillips coordinated the day’s events at the school with the support of Bailli Provincial Phil Kress, Echanson Provincial Chick Marshal and Conseiller Gastronomique Provincial Dan Ketelaars. Sixteen sponsors donated products and financial support to the competition and to the regional chapître which ran concurrently with the competition, Additional financial support came from the Las Vegas, Salt Lake City and Reno Bailliages and a check for $5,000 was given by the Chaîne Foundation for scholarships. Tension and excitement filled the air as young chefs battled at their cooking stations for top honors. Many Conferers watched the competition while others enjoyed a sous vide cooking demonstrations and food safety tips by expert Chef Robert Reid and a wine tasting of limited production Moraga wine from Brentwood, CA. Following lunch Bailli Délégué Hal Small, Chancelier National Ira Falk, and Bailli Provincial Phil Kress announced the winners: Chef Kyle Pacheco, Savory, Santa Fe and Chef Mark Serpas, Pastry, Los Angeles. The young chefs were then inducted into the Chaîne. C

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SOUTHWEST REGIONAL YOUNG CHEF ↓ BY KATHY SHAY, Vice Chargée de Presse

THE weekend of March 1-3 served as a gathering of four Young Chefs from the Southwest Region – Kevin Donovan of Second Bar + Kitchen in Austin, Jose Estrada of Mercat Bistro in Dallas, Daniel Pinesette of Galveston College in Galveston and Oakley Wilson of the St. Julien Hotel and Spa in Boulder. A relaxed gathering and dinner at the Art Institute of Dallas on Friday night introduced all the chefs and supporters before the competition began early Saturday morning. Facing a challenging mystery basket prepared by Maître Rôtisseur Leslie Bartosh that included duck, redfish, buckwheat, chia seeds, kumquats and rhubarb, the chefs seemed unperturbed. After menu development and three hours of cooking, the tireless chefs presented their entries. Many of the dishes were as attractive as they were tasty and the judges had the difficult task of deciding the winner. They chose to keep the participants in suspense that afternoon before the verdict was announced at an excellent Italian dinner at Dolce Riviera that night. Local Dallas and Fort Worth members joined Bailli Provincial Bill Salomon and the Baillis and the Regional Officers who cheered their candidates on. Chef Kevin Donovan of Austin won the top award and the opportunity to showcase his skills in the national competition in Pittsburgh in May. Replete with a warm and cozy Italian dinner on a wintery Dallas night, attendees were rewarded by their support of the young chefs who, even if they did not win, felt their time was well spent and their careers enhanced by the challenge of the day. C


NORTH EAST YOUNG CHEF ↑ BY HELEN CAPPUCCINO, Chargée de Presse Provincial

FOUR committed young culinary competitors toiled in the kitchens of SUNY Delphi atop the bucolic rolling hills of Delaware County, NY for the Chaîne North East Young Chef Competition. They cleverly incorporated the mystery basket of foods—cornish Hen, bacon, bronzino, shrimp, brussel sprouts, celery root, pineapple, and quinoa into a three course meal. All first-time competitors, these young chefs haled from SUNY Erie (Phoebe Beiter works at Country Club of Buffalo), SUNY Schenectady (Samuel J Citone- works at “Yonos”), SUNY Delhi (Julio Cesar Chavez— works at Patterson Club) and SUNY Delhi (Alexander Goldstein—works at Boston Clipper). Chef judges included Vice Conseiller Culinaire Dale Martin, Conseiller Culinaire Provinciale Yono Purnamo, Bailli Wilfred Beriau, and Vice Conseiller Culinaire et des Professionnels des Etats Unis Compétitions. After all the students’ work was completed, the judges, having sampled all the preparations and judged in the kitchen, went back to

work, critiquing the preparations. Given the small group, all competitors and the judges gathered around the presentation table for an intimate discussion of the plates. Each chef competitor first assessed their own plates, and then the chef judges evaluated them. In addition to talking about the nuances of the seasoning, composition of the plates, usage of ingredients and flavors, the judges underscored not only the taste, but also the healthfulness of various seasonings, portions and preparations. The entire exercise was more of an additional real education about food, flavor and wellness from some of the smartest pros the Chaîne and industry have to offer, rather than a critique. In that sense, all the competitors were winners —leaving with pointers and pearls to guide their future careers. But in the end there must be a winner, and on this day it was Alexander Goldstein who took home the Silver and runner up was Julio Cesar Chavez. C

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Wine… The Lifeblood of La Chaîne MONDIALE MANY of our members have a special interest in wine as collectors, producers, and those learning more about wine or other crafted beverages. To accommodate those members, the Société Mondiale du Vin (Mondiale) was created to promote the enjoyment, knowledge and understanding of fine wines and crafted beverages. Only members in good standing of the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs may be members of Mondiale. A person—professionally involved in the wine and spirits industry or an amateur connoisseur with special interest and knowledge of wine and crafted spirits—seeking membership in the Société Mondiale du Vin, must complete an application and have his or her Bailli approve of the application and process it through the National Office. The framework of Société Mondiale du Vin provides for professional and amateur participation, with one of its goals being to provide help, encouragement and support for the young professionals who are to be the best sommeliers of the future. The Chaîne conducts each year a competition to find the best young sommelier in the United States with the winner of that competition then participating in the international competition. New members of the Mondiale are inducted at special ceremonies and receive a tastevin (tasting cup) which is then worn on their regalia. Professional members also receive a plaque to be displayed at their place of business. The 2019 National Mondiale Weekend took place in Napa, California between April 24th-27th. C

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The Société Mondiale du Vin was created to promote the enjoyment, knowledge and understanding of fine wines and crafted beverages.

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The 2019 Bailliage Etats-Unis

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d’Amérique Grand Chapitre NATIONAL THE 2019 USA Grand Chapitre (October 2–6, 2019) took place in Maryland at the Four Seasons Baltimore Hotel, a luxury five-star property in the vibrant historic Harbor East district of its largest city, Baltimore, birthplace of the U.S. national anthem. Hosted by the Mid-Atlantic Province, the festivities and meetings were surrounded by gaiety, camaraderie and mountains of fresh Maryland crab for which the state is known. The Chapitre was launched at Thursday evening’s welcome reception where Bailli Délégué Harold Small and Bailli Provincial John C. Fannin III welcomed all to the 2019 Chapître which marked the 60th anniversary of the formation of the Bailliage des Etats Unis d’Amérique. Earlier,

Foundation Chair, John Burson welcomed Foundation Friends at delicious traditional fete prepared by Chef Raimund Holfmeister CMC, AAC and members of the Regional Culinary Olympic Team. Burson thanked Foundation Friend and Trustee Michael Ty for organizing the luncheon at which a donation was presented to the American Culinary Federation Education Fund in support of the ACF Culinary Olympic Team. Exclusive dining experiences took place at some of the finest restaurants in Baltimore: Charleston, Magdalena, Bygone, Alma Cocina and Petit Louis Bistro. Daytime adventures included visits to the Baltimore Museum of Art and lunch at Gertrude’s, and the Fells Point Walking Tour with stops along the way to

enjoy local foods and libations. To celebrate all baillis, a Friday evening jovial Chesapeake Bay Feast took place at Bo Brooks Waterfront Restaurant. An open bar, great wines and customized Chaîne beers created for the event paired with Maryland crab soup, fried chicken, and bushels of hefty Maryland crabs. Saturday’s black-tie induction ceremony was officiated by Bailli Délégué Harold Small and assisted by national officers: Chancelier Ira Falk, Argentier Steve Gross, Foundation Chair John Burson, and Bailli Provincial Mid-Atlantic John Fannin, and Mid-Atlantic officers: Chambellan Stuart Goldberg, Chambellan Matthew Karstetter, Conseiller Gastronomique Paul Schulze, and Echanson George Staikos.

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Inductions included: Chevalier Vivay Khatnani, Delaware Valley Chevalier Norman Oliver, First State Chevalier Craig Schwarts Final, First State Dame de la Chaîne Beth Barry, First State Dame de la Chaîne Lorraine Harbison, First State Ecuyer Lisa Skedzielewski, Baltimore Chef Rotisseurs Kevin Keller, Baltimore Maître Rôtisseurs Damien Bagley, and Baltimore Maître Rôtisseurs Paul Sanchez. Promoted were: Chef Rotisseurs Eric Isennock, Charge de Presse Steven Goldberg and Grand Echanson des Etats-Unis Eugene Daly. A 30-Year Officier Commandeur pin was awarded to Dame de La Chaîne Ruth Morelli and 20-Year Gold Commandeur pins were given to Chambellan Provincial Bailli Stuart Goldberg, Bailli Matthew Karstetter, and Chambellan Provincial Delaware Bailli Valley Mont Stern. 10- Year Silver Commandeur pins went to Vice Chargée De Presse Honoraire Susan English, Bailli Provincial Far West Phillip Kress and Echanson Provincial Northeast, Bailli George Staikos. An elegant gala at the Four Seasons Hotel planned by the Mid-Atlantic host committee which included regional officers listed above and Charge de Presse Paul Koulogeorge, Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Chef Thomas Hannum and Conseiller Gastronomique Provincial Paul Schulze rounded out the weekend. The reception featured Champagne Collet “Esprit Couture” Brut 2007 and passed hors d’oeuvres. The menu included tuna tartar paired with Weingut P. Licht Berweiler Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Auslese 1959, poached Scallop, duck breast and Cote de Boeuf paired perfectly with other sensational wines including a Château Grand Village 2015 a Bordeaux of Guinaudeau Vignerns, Louis Jadot Beaune 1er Cru 2012, Xavier Vignon Cuvée Anonyme Châteauneuf-du Pape 2012, and Château Suiduiraut 1er Cru Classe 1985, in magnums. Chocolates were hand crafted by fifth generation Swiss chocolatier Albert A. Lauber of Neuchatel Chocolates, Oxford Pennsylvania. Bailli Délégué Harold Small congratulated and honored the MidAtlantic Bailli Provincial and team members for their work in creating this year’s Grand Chapitre with Silver Stars or International Silver Medals. Gold Stars were presented to Baillis Thomas Knox and John Foy recognizing their long and distinguished service to the Chaîne. A Silver International Medal was awarded to Executive Director Kevin Dunn. C 24

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PHOTO BY LORENZO TASSONE

Local & Regional Stories

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Albany . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Atlanta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Bonita . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Buffalo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Chicago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Lacs et des Bois . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 La Jolla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Garden State . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Jamaica . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Miami . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 Naples . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 Nassau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 New Orleans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 O’ahu/Honolulu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Palm Springs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 San Antonio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 San Diego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Washington D.C. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Far West Regional Chapitre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50

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Past and Present »« Epicurean Delights with Caribbean Inspired Delicacies

Round Hill… JAMAICA BY KERRI-ANNE RECKORD, Vice Chargée de Presse

PHOTOS BY: CHANTAL CHANDON

THE annual black-tie induction and dinner of the Jamaica Bailliage took place on January 11, 2020 at the timelessly elegant Round Hill Hotel and Villas overlooking the Caribbean Sea in Montego Bay. Our hosts for the evening included Managing Director Josef Forstmayr and Executive Chef Martin Maginley. The evening began with a delightful cocktail hour, with members and their guests being serenaded by the sweet sounds of a Jamaican Mento band while enjoying caviar on shaved bammy chips, spiced marlin on yam croquettes, lemon grass butter bean hummus and pulled pork tostones. Hors d’oeuvres were accompanied by Prosecco cocktails, Old Cuban cocktails and mango Bellinis. Cocktails were followed by the induction ceremony where members were officially welcomed by Chambellan Provincial/ Bailli Derek Elder as well as a special welcome to Bailli Provincial Alan Feuerstein who officiated at the ceremony. Six new members were inducted into the Bailliage. Additionally, three members received the Silver Commandeur pin, one member received the Gold Commandeur pin, Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Honoraire Larry Watson received the Officier Commandeur pin for attaining thirty years membership in the 28

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Chaîne des Rôtisseurs and Chevalier Steven Marston was elevated to the role of Vice Chancelier Argentier. After the ceremony, guests were invited to dine. Guided by the hotel’s culinary consultant Bill Moore, the evening would be a magnificent gastronomic journey “curated to reflect Round Hill’s noble past and bright future”. Executive Chef Martin Maginley and his team paid homage to the past by celebrating culinary masters Auguste Escoffier with the Escargot à L’Alsacienne, Paul Bocuse with the Soupe aux truffes Élysée and Anton Mosimann with the Mousseline de Coquilles St Jacques sauce d’écrevisses. Then celebrating the future by showcasing

the ingenuity and creativity of contemporary Caribbean cuisine in courses such as the duck breast and saddle of goat. To complete this amazing experience, each course was complemented by an excellent and wellthought-out wine pairing. To show the Bailliage’s deep appreciation for a first-class event, the Round Hill team received their respective pins and a special Chaîne presentation plate was presented by Vice Conseiller Culinaire Pierre Battaglia and Bailli Provincial Alan Feuerstein to Managing Director Josef Forstmayr, Executive Chef Martin Maginley and the culinary team. Vive la Chaîne! C

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Dinner at a Desert Classic PALM SPRINGS

BY SUSAN BERMAN, Vice Chargée de Presse

PHOTOS BY ED LEE

WHILE casual eateries, communal dining, small plates, and ever-changing seasonal menus gain popularity, Wally’s Desert Turtle has remained a last man standing in the Coachella Valley. Wally’s is something of a novelty with its white linen tablecloths, heavy silver flatware, table captains, and classic French fare. Entering under twinkling lights, guests are swept away by the spectacular design by famed interior designers Steven Chase and Randy Patton. The beveled mirrored ceilings and hand painted murals create an extraordinary and elegant ambiance in which to savor the creations of Executive Chef Pascal Lallemand. Wally’s Desert Turtle was founded by Wally Botello in 1978. After his passing in 1985, his son Michael moved to the desert to take the helm of the restaurant, operating it with his wife Nicole. Chef Pascal Lallemand was born and raised in Paris, France. He attended Culinary College in Le Touquet, France and learned and practiced the trade in various hotels and restaurants in France before moving to the United States in 1981. He began his U.S. career in Austin, Texas, moved to Aspen, Colorado, and then spent a year on the Wind Star cruise ship, after which he returned to Texas as the Executive Chef at the Intercontinental Hotel. Chef Lallemand then moved to California as the Executive Chef of the Park Meridien in Palm Springs. Subsequently, he met Michael Botello who offered him the position of Executive Chef at Wally’s Desert Turtle, where he remains to this date. On March 8, 2020, after enjoying innovative hors d’oeuvres and champagne, Chaîne members were treated to six courses of elegant French cuisine, each paired perfectly with a French wine. At the end of the evening, Bailli Annette Rakowitz acknowledged all of the hard work that goes into making a Chaîne event so special. She presented Executive Chef Pascal Lallemand with a pewter Chaîne plate and pronounced the occasion a “triple-crown ­evening” of outstanding food, wine, and service. C 30

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ALBANY

a Place for Spirits

BY DESIRÉE A. FARLEY, Chargée de Presse Presumptif

WITH 158 years of history and legendary tales of ghosts and spirits, the Beardslee Castle celebrates 25 years under Chef/Owner Randall Brown’s commitment to serving the best fare in central New York. Built by Augustus Beardslee, the authentically Irish-styled castle is tastefully decorated with five dining rooms, limestone walls, oak paneling, and a wide wood-burning fireplace. Now restored to its full glory, after two devastating fires (1918, 1989), this enchanting restaurant has been a seven-time Wine Spectator Award winner and has become one of Central New York’s architectural and gastronomic treasures. Their menu changes seasonally using the best locally available ingredients. The style of cooking aims to develop innovative cuisine using new techniques, the natural energy of the property and classic hospitality create a superbly unique ­dining experience. Chef-Owner Randall Brown warmly welcomed 31 members and guests of the Albany Bailliage to this unique medieval structure, located five miles east of Little Falls, NY. A total of 17 culinary and service staff members assisted in executing this dinner. We began in the “The Dungeon” for passed hors d’ouevres. The spectacular dinner that followed was worth the hour plus trek from Albany. The longevity and success of the establishment are deeply rooted in the respect and preservation of the historic landmark combined with exceptionally passionate personnel. If you are looking to plan a day trip out to view the beautiful summer castle gardens or hide away from the crisp winter air in front of the spacious wood burning fireplace, Chef Brown will surely deliver an exciting experience. C CUVÉE EXTRA 2020

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Induction Dinner GARDEN STATE BY VICTOR S. SLOAN, MD, Vice Chargé de Presse

ON Sunday, November 17, 2019, the Garden State Baillage held its 41st Annual Induction Dinner at Jockey Hollow Bar and Kitchen (JHBK) in Morristown, NJ. A creation of legendary restaurateur Chris Cannon, JHBK is located in a 1918 mansion built by Theodore Vail of AT&T. Chef AJ Capella and his team created a menu that featured several items from Cannon’s partnerships with local vendors such as Mantoloking’s Forty North Oyster Farms and Chester’s Flocktown Farm. The ambience is further improved by the restaurant’s specially-commissioned modern art collection. Philip Tucci, Events Manager and Adam Wechsler, Wine Director ensured that the evening went smoothly and that the Confrères were welleducated on the wine pairings. Special highlights included Rasa Vineyards QED Convergence 2015, served with Chef Capella’s Whole Suckling Pig as the 3rd course of the meal and the Eva Fricke Rheingau Riesling Kanonenkugel Cuvée” 2018, bottled exclusively for Jockey Hollow. In his discussion, Mr. Wechsler noted the undeserved lack of respect that this

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region often engenders. Daniel Mazzucola, Richard Rickman, Marsha Salmon and Pinto Navarane were inducted by Matthew Karstetter, Chambellan Provincial de Mid-Atlantic and Bailli of the Delaware Valley Baillage. Professional du Vin Navarane is the co-owner of Rasa Vineyards in the Walla Walla Valley. Silver Commandeur Pins recognizing 10 years of service were presented to Diana Evans, Harvey Fruchter, Wayne Hallard, Luciano Ingrao, Michael Salvatore and Victor Sloan. Vice Conseiller Culinaire Salvatore and Vice Charge de Presse Sloan are Officers of the Baillage. Commandeur Pins recognizing 20 years of membership were presented to Robin Jacobs, Bailli Provincial Honoraire, Ivan Jacobs, Vice-Chancelier-Argentier Honorarire and George Staikos, Bailli and Echanson Provincial. The Share the Chaîne Pin and Bronze Star were presented to Sharon Rickman, Vice Chargé de Missions of the Bailliage. C


LA JOLLA BY MARIE ADDARIO, Chargée de Presse National

THE La Jolla Bailliage celebrated Valentine’s Day with a luscious feast at the award-winning Westgate Hotel in its awe-inspiring Fontainebleau Room. The Westgate, a distinguished member of Leading Hotels of the World, in all its European grandeur, stands between tall towers, flourishing businesses, and posh condominiums overlooking San Diego Bay. The story goes that when President Dwight D. Eisenhower visited San Diego back in the late 1960s, he asked if the hotel in which he was staying was the best San Diego had to offer. Actually, it was the only

Amour at the Westgate PHOTOGRAPHER VINCENT ANDRUNAS

hotel in downtown except for a few scruffy establishments in this predominately Navy town. It was then that C. Arnold Smith, a local businessman, decided to build the best hotel in the United States. When he was done, and the Westgate opened its doors in 1970, it turned out to be the most expensive hotel in the nation. Entry into the Grand Lobby feels like you’re stepping into royal opulence, as the boutique hotel was designed to be a re-creation of an anteroom in the Palace of Versailles. This beautiful space is noted for its priceless objets d’art from Louie XV and Regency period with Baccarat crystal chandeliers, Flemish and French tapestries and Persian carpets. The evening was planned, created and executed by Bailli Dominick Addario, Maître de Table, Executive Chef Fabrice Hardel, and Maître de Hotelier, General Manager of the hotel Richard Cox. A jazz trio along with visiting vocalist Chargée de Presse National, Marie Addario serenaded with songs of romance and love. C

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Cheers to 40 Years SAN ANTONIO

BY NICOLE PIETRAMALE, Vice Chargée de Presse

THE San Antonio Bailliage, under Bailli Vivian Ray, celebrated its 40th anniversary on Saturday, December 7, 2019 at the extravagant San Antonio Country Club with exceptional cuisine, elegant wine, live music and dancing. The evening was made extra-special with honorary guests Chancelier des Etats-Unis Ira Falk and his wife Melissa who joined the Bailliage for this memorable event. With 120 members, San Antonio continues to be the largest Bailliage in the Southwest Region and is committed to planning one-of-a-kind experiences throughout the year. Delivering on the promise of the unique, Chef Eduardo Castillo, Vice Conseiller Marvin Jones and Vice Echanson Jeff Degner curated an amazing evening. Together they designed a beautifully paired menu that included specially selected wines from the Bailliage’s wine cellar to kick-off the 40th anniversary celebration. Guests arrived to a warm welcome of delicate hors d’oeuvres paired with a variety of wines including the Ridge Santa Cruz Mountains Red Blend 2002 that is layered with expressive flavors of raspberry, currant, bitter chocolate and spices. A menu highlight from the evening included the third course, Prosciutto Wrapped Monkfish Tournedos accompanied by Parisian Gnocchi, Braised Cipollini Onions and Red Wine Jus. This was paired with 1995 Magnums Font Villac Saint-Emilion Grand Cru. To add to the festivities, every guest received a 40th Anniversary pin and Reidel glasses, etched with the Chaîne logo, to help celebrate this significant achievement! Some people left extra happy with rare treasures from the silent auction table. From the professionals to the food and libation enthusiasts, The San Antonio Bailliage is a special community of members who are passionate about enjoying the camaraderie of friends combined with great food and wine. Cheers to 40 years and to the culinary adventures to come! C 34

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The Rum Room at Baha Mar NASSAU ISABELLA OVEREND, Chargée De presse Atlantic Caribbean Islands

ROSEWOOD, the last of Baha Mar properties to open in Nassau, hosted the Nassau bailliage in a spectacular Chaîne evening of food, wine and camaraderie. The evening was arranged with Bailli Isabella Overend, Conseiller Culinaire Fred Lightbourn, Food and Beverage Director Rosewood Alfredo Ruiz and the talented and well known Chef Siddharth Krishna. Chef Krishna came to Rosewood from the Abu Dhabi property with 19 years of experience also in India, UK, and Europe. The Rosewood lobby is a everything Zen: tranquil music, aromatics, and stunning murals by 15 artists. Escorted to the Commonwealth terrace, guests enjoyed Irroy Champagne, Iberico ham crostini and Caviar Bellini. Restaurant Manager, Angelo Sturrup and his staff welcomed all to dinner in the Rum Room with floral and candle arrangements by Dame de la Chaine Michelle White. Following the sumptuous dinner of tuna tartare, grilled prawns, cedar plank salmon and Australian rib eye served with a Rutherford Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon, the management and chef of Rosewood Baha Mar were presented with a commemorative Chaîne plate and Chaîne pins for the staff. C

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A Memorable Induction at the Watergate Hotel

WASHINGTON, DC BY BILL BABASH, Vice Chargé de Presse

THE Bailliage of Greater Washington, DC, assembled at the Watergate Hotel on September 20, 2019 for its annual black-tie grand induction and gala dinner. Having recently undergone a $125 million renovation, the Watergate was a superb venue for the largest induction in the bailliage’s 52-year history. Perfect fall weather enticed early arriving confrères to the Watergate’s rooftop terrace for the spectacular view along the Potomac River from the Kennedy Center to Georgetown. Festivities began with a Champagne reception with canapés that included a tartelette of swordfish mousseline, Maine lobster, and Osetra caviar; and a sea urchin flan with creamed leeks and sun-dried tomato brunoise. The bailliage was honored to have Matt Karstetter, Chambellan Provincial de Mid-Atlantic and Bailli of the Delaware Valley, serve as inducting officer for the eighteen new nonprofessional and six new professional members in attendance. Among the inductees were the Watergate Hotel’s managing director and executive assistant manager for food and beverage. Bailli Judith Mazza awarded the Chaîne’s Bronze Star of Excellence to newly elevated Vice Chargé de 36

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Missions Ray Villarreal for his work on the bailliage’s wine cellar, and several members received Share-the-Chaîne and Commandeur pins. Dinner followed the ceremonies. Maître Rôtisseur Sébastien Giannini had wowed attendees with his cuisine at the 2018 induction at the St. Regis Washington, where he was then executive chef. He moved to the Watergate Hotel as executive chef in January 2019, and the bailliage eagerly anticipated what delights would come from his new kitchen. The wait was worth it, as Chef Giannini thrilled diners with his exceptional cuisine, inspired by classic dishes and executed with precision and contemporary flair. Foie gras with figs, sautéed scallops, and lamb three ways headlined the spectacular menu. Wines from the bailliage’s cellar paired beautifully with each course. Six members were inducted into the Société Mondiale du Vin in a festive and fun ceremony before an elegant tarte au chocolate dessert. The evening was not quite over, however, as members and guests adjourned to the foyer for coffee, mignardise, and conversation – a delightful conclusion to a memorable evening at the ­historic Watergate. C


NEW ORLEANS TONY RITTER, Vice Chargé de Presse

ON October 24, members and guests of the New Orleans Bailliage did their annual trick or treating in the French Quarter. As the sun set and the moon rose, the guests arrived at Napoleon House. The doorbell was rung and all yelled “Trick or Treat”. When expecting Napoleon opened the door and showered everyone with treats, Executive Chef Chris Montero appeared. Chef Montero, who did not want to be tricked by this spooky group of Chaîne tricksters, invited all into the restaurant. “I don’t want any tricks; please enter so I can give you a culinary treat!” Chef exclaimed. With that, all the tricksters entered to celebrate Halloween. With members and guests inside, Chef let out a demonic laugh, set off a smoke screen and went into his kitchen to stir up a magical gastronomic delight. The leaders of this ghostly group, Bailli Yvette Cressend and her husband Argentier des Etats-Unis Rufus Cressend, announced there must have a spiritual drink of the grape to enjoy with the culinary delights. Vice Conseillier-Argentier William Feibleman and Vice Echanson Wayne Forman came to the rescue, and with a spell from Bacchus there was a flash of lighting and the sound of thunder. When the smoke disbursed, the wine appeared to pair with the meal. As the Witch flew across the moon on her broom with the flying monkeys, the evening came to a close. C

Trick or Treat With Napoleon

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Welcome in, 2020!

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LACS ET DES BOIS

PHOTOS BY: KARAN REED-MATHIS, DAME DE LA CHAÎNE, DES LACS ET DES BOIS

BY JULIE TILTON, Vice Chargée de Médias-Sociaux

WITH the holidays over, members of the Lacs et des Bois Bailliage scheduled time in between football games and winter vacations to have the Balliage’s first dinner of the New Year on January 11, 2020 at Killen’s Steakhouse. Friendship and camaraderie of the Bailliage was front and center at the event with a reception of passed appetizers that allowed members to catch up with each other after the busy holiday season. Members were seated for dinner in groups of six at round top tables creating an intimate setting for the night. Killen’s Executive Chef, Luis Lopez, enhanced the experience by creating a comfort food menu featuring French country cuisine. Chef Lopez attended The Art Institute of Houston Culinary Arts School and worked a two year stint at Brennan’s of Houston before coming to work for the Killen Restaurant Group headed by former James Beard semifinalist Ronnie Killen. Chef Lopez has worked for the Killen’s Restaurant Group for four years and during that time rose quickly through the ranks from line chef to sous chef to his current position as Executive Chef of the Killen’s Steakhouse - Woodlands. Chef Lopez offered us a perfect rendition of a classic created especially for our dinner. The rich Duck Confit Cassoulet he served at the event captured the essence of the French “campagnard” traditional cuisine. This is a dish that cannot be rushed, prepared with duck confit, the tender white bean cassoulet combines the flavors of a brisket ragout, the chef Lopez’s personal sausage recipe and three days of patient cooking. The cassoulet was adroitly paired by co-owner of Killeen Steakhouses and Beverage Manager Deanna who chose a red Rhone blend of a limited production 2015 Vermilion wine, a perfect choice for this hearty traditional dish much appreciate by all present. This wine is produced by winemaker Helen Keplinger of Keplinger wine, Amador County, California. In so doing, Deanna honored us also with an old-world style wine pairing against the menu. The evening finished with Executive pastry chef, Samantha Mendoza, pleasuring each table with Killen’s signature dessert croissant crème brûlée bread pudding with a blueberry, apricot and caramelized apple sauce. The night was complete a complete success as each guest left full of fellowship, food and wine. C CUVÉE EXTRA 2020

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North American Amicale BUFFALO AND TORONTO BY HELEN CAPPUCCINO, CPP NE, Bailli Buffalo

THE bailliages of Buffalo, NY USA and Toronto, Ontario Canada g­ athered together for the fourth consecutive year to celebrate our binational friendship and love of food, wine, and most importantly camaraderie. In addition we shared the event with the participation of the Northeast USA Regional Société du Mondiale. Drawing attendees from beyond our immediate areas has become a hallmark of this event and a testimony to its reputation. This year attendees came from Toronto, Buffalo, Michigan, Connecticut, and Albany. The weekend began with a tour of Inniskillin Winery- the birthplace of “icewine”, with a Reidel Tasting Experience and “Aromarama”- a blind olfactory experience highlighting some of the more common but spectacular notes of white and red wines. We then enjoyed an exquisite tasting lunch in the Inniskillin cellars. After a brief respite we headed to Peller Estates for a really exceptional

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evening. We began with a sunset reception on Peller’s patio, and moved to their Barrel Cellar for an intimate tasting dinner. The evening continued with very special experience in their 10 Below tasting room. Guests were all given puffy down coats and entered the magical world built from ice. Imagine - the shelves, the bar and walls - all carved out of ice. What a place to enjoy the velvety tastes of the best of this region’s “icewines”! Topping things off, the evening’s last station per say was an “icewine” marshmallow roast out of doors. This gooey delight brought back simple childish pleasures in preparation for the next day. Day two got members enjoying bike tours of Niagara on the Lake, theater productions at Shaw Festival, and some well-deserved rest before we reconvened at a Gala Dinner with our Toronto confréres at Vineland Estates. After a tour of the facility, we mingled with our friends to the north. As we departed, everyone was eager to reschedule next year’s event. C


PHOTOS BY PEGGY FARREN

NAPLES BY THELMA NEGLEY, Vice Chargée de Presse

IT was a golden evening when the 2019 Naples Induction Gala at The Bay Colony Club on March 26 saw two goldmedal winning chefs preside over a banquet fit for a king. The chefs are part of Team USA competing in the 2020 Culinary Olympics in Stuttgart. The team’s manager is U.S. board member Conseiller Culinaire et des Professionnels Nationat chef Raymond Pitz and Bay Colony Club Executive Chef Tim Rechter is an Olympic team member. Among many other distinctions, Chef Pitz is a holder of the World Association of Chefs World Medal and a member of their Hall of Fame. Multiple award winner Chef Rechter was named State Chef by the Governor of Maryland and was part of the team selected to prepare President Obama’s Inaugural Dinner.

Bailli Roger Weatherburn-Baker invited the two stars to create “A Banquet at Versailles.” To our members’ great delight they triumphed, receiving rave reviews and an enthusiastic standing ovation. In recognition, Roger presented each of them with a Chaîne-engraved commemorative carving set, and invited Chef Pitz to induct Tim, who was delighted to be honored this way. As befitting “A Banquet at Versailles,” tables were adorned with gleaming golden candelabras, embroidered tablecloths, golden placemats and gold cutlery. Satin napkins were artfully crafted into roses, centered on gold and glass chargers, and golden vases held Versailles roses. Susan Vareschi, Bailli Provincial Southeast inducted five new members, and Dave Wilson, Bailli Délégue National Honoraire welcomed them into the Société Mondiale du Vin. In addition, there were three elevations: Chevalier Tim Evankovich to Vice Echanson, Dame Suzette Fernandes to Vice Chancelier and Dame Paula Weatherburn-Baker to Vice Conseiller Gastronomique. Several Commandeur pins at all levels were presented, and Bronze Stars of Excellence were awarded to Vice Chargée de Missions Jennifer Gebeau and Vice Echanson Tim Evankovich. A Limited Edition of the history of the American Culinary Federation, signed by all in attendance, was auctioned off by Chef Pitz, with the proceeds to be used for a gift of special recognition to the next National Young Chef winner. Professionnel du Vin Cheryl Anderson was thrilled to be the successful bidder. With such a gifted culinary team in the kitchen, it is no wonder that some members commented that it was the best Chaîne dinner they have ever experienced. Additionally, Advanced Sommelier Mladen Stoev and Vice Echanson Tim Evankovich chose incredible French wines to pair with each outstanding dish. It is not often that guests are treated to such perfection in menu, wines and decor. But for members of the Naples Bailliage, being treated like royalty is often a matter of course. C CUVÉE EXTRA 2020

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A Night Beneath the Stars SAN DIEGO BY SHANDI JOHNSON, Vice Chargée de Presse

PHOTOGRAPHER RODNEY REGALA

THE San Diego Bailliage welcomed its newest member on September 14, 2019 with an induction that took place under the stars at the brand new Guild Hotel in Downtown San Diego, California. Held in the Rivierastyle courtyard, the annual induction dinner at this 1920’s YMCA turned luxury boutique hotel and urban oasis proved to be one of a kind. As bailliage members entered the elegant Guild Bar to enjoy a crafted cocktail, they found themselves surrounded by luxe velvet and marble that set the tone for the indulgence to follow. When the doors to the rear of the bar opened they revealed the historic Luca courtyard. Attendees strolled onto the enclosed patio and were greeted with sparkling cava. With daylight beginning to fade in the courtyard, guests were seated and the dinner began. Members and inductees alike enjoyed the menu that was imaginative and prepared by award-winning Executive Chef Justin Vaiciunas, a newcomer to the San Diego culinary scene. The Detroit native brought his signature approach to every dish – namely, an artistic culinary point of view, unique flavor profiles, and a creative eye for presentation. C 42

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Unexpected elements that wowed were a common theme for the e­ vening – from bone marrow with chai foam and apple chutney to chicken sausage bottle rockets and lollipops that arrived in a cloud of smoke! Yet the food was not to eclipse the wine, which included a 2010 Domaine de Chevalier Pessac-Leognan that boasted a well-earned 95 points from Robert Parker. A dinner not soon forgotten! The subsequent ceremony, led by Bailli Délégué des États-Unis

Harold Small, featured the induction of Chevalier Archie Thurston, as well as the elevation of Vice Chargée de Missions Mary Lynne Kupchella and Vice Chargée de Presse Shandi Johnson to their new positions. Vice Conseiller Michelle Sterling and Vice Conseiller Mark Palamar were also elevated. As the evening came to a close, Bailli and Consul de Société Mondiale John Crisafulli expressed our sincere appreciation to Chef Vaiciunas and his staff for a dinner so perfectly executed. C

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Champagne & Caviar World Chaîne Day 2019 O’AHU AND HONOLULU BY DAVID GREENLEE, Vice Chargé de Presse

PHOTOS BY TONY GRILLO

WOW! Talk about an Upper Division Seminar, O’ahu and Honolulu Bailliages just set the standard for that event, when celebrating World Chaîne Day 2019. The Bailliages on Oahu toasted World Chaîne des Rôtisseurs Day together in French-style, with French accoutrements. First, last, and always, corks popped, and true champagne poured all evening long. What is the best thing to accompany Champagne? French caviar, of course! The Pacific Club Executive Chef and Oahu Vice Conseiller Culinaire Eric Leterc, set and integrated the menu, made connections with local sources of French ingredients, and prepared a menu fit for World Chaîne Day. Bubbles were poured from three liter bottles of Veuve Cliquot, which set the evening’s lovely tone. The cheers carried into the first course of caviar with Veuve Cliquot Grand Dame, a significant contender for best wine of the night. After three caviar themed dishes, the staff poured Dom Perignon to pair with the oysters. Followed by Krug Grand Cuvee with the pasta, and finished with Dom Ruinart for the lobster course. A Demi-Sec Moet & Chandon Nectar Imperial accompanied dessert to cap the evening sweetly. Each segment of the menu was celebrated and narrated by our “faculty.” Caviar purveyors Guilaine and Paul Michelutti brought Sturia French caviar from Evidenza G & P. Beautiful seafood, salmon and lobster, came from Dominique Jamain, of Seafood Connection. And of course our lead sommelier for the evening, Tod Clayton, Champagne Specialist, wove stories around tasting notes to deliver a perfect Chaîne version of Higher Education. C 44

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BONITA SPRINGS BY SUSAN VARESCHI, Bailli Provincial Southeast and JOHN FLAMMANG, Chargé de Presse Provincial Southeast

FEBRUARY 11, 2020 marked the 20th anniversary of the founding of the Bonita Bailliage. The evening would be the twenty-first induction ceremony as the bailliage was founded in the centennial year of 2000. The list of the founding officers was printed in the evenings program. Jacke McCurdy, the initial Vice Chargée de Missions, was one of the founding officers attending the 20th Anniversary Gala. Quail West Golf & Country Club is on Florida’s west coast in Naples, Florida. Located between the Gulf of Mexico and the Florida Everglades, Quail West is a 1180-acre community

20th Anniversary Gala

PHOTOS BY AVANT GARDE IMAGES

with uncompromising architectural detailing, panoramic vistas, and beautifully manicured grounds. It is approached by a drive under a canopy of tall trees with glimpses of Spanish style roofs, graceful archways, and charming courtyards. From the opening reception of butler-passed hors d’oeuvres to the closing dessert with “Cherries Jubilee” the evening was a tribute to the professionalism and attentiveness of the Quail West staff, Tony D’Errico - COO, Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Southeast Tim Recher – Director of Clubhouse Operations, and Michael S. Katz – Executive Chef. Jesse Miller, Wine and Spirits Director and a Certified Sommelier was responsible for the wine pairings and oversaw the serving of the dinner. The inductees included: Thomas O’Dea, and Steve Tews as Chevaliers and Mary Eberhard and Pamela Ytterberg as Dame de la Chaîne, Patricia Brown as Maître Restaurateur Honoraire, and Marisa Crisanti as Chef Rôtisseur. Susan Bondi, Patricia Brown, Mary Eberhard, Thomas O’Dea and Steve Tews were tapped by the vine to become members of the Société Mondiale du Vin. Frank Stover received recognition as 40-year Grand Commandeur and 10-year recognition went to Tom Briers, Mark McCaw, Phil Schmitt, and Susan Vareschi. Bailli Provincial Southeast, Susan Vareschi, and Bonita Bailli, Bill Vareschi, presented Vice Conseiller Gastronomique, Mark McCaw with a Bronze Star of Excellence. The Club was presented with a china Chaîne plate as a remembrance of the occasion; and the staff received pins in honor of their hard work during the event. C 46

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SPEAKEASY SOIRÉE Celebrating 60 Years of Chaîne at The Alden ATLANTA BY DAWN MCGREEVEY, Chargée de Presse

THE Atlanta Bailliage celebrated 60 years of camaraderie, delicious food, and fine wine with a 1920s Speakeasy-themed dinner and silent auction at The Alden, in Chamblee, Georgia. The 6-course meal was prepared by Chef Jared Hucks and his team. Over 40 members and guests attended, many in costume. Located in a revitalizing section of Atlanta, The Alden has burst onto the Atlanta dining scene with exceptional food in an intimate setting. Chef Hucks spent seven years traveling the globe and working for renowned chefs in Australia, Italy, Spain, and Denmark--including Arzak and Noma. The evening began with our Bailli, Becky Lukovic, kicking off a silent auction to raise money for our cellar collection while everyone enjoyed passed appetizers such as Strawberry Leather & Chevre and Lobster Bisque. The Alden’s general manager Zoubir Mesbahi held sabering

demonstrations and members enjoyed trying it themselves with Möet & Chandon Imperial flowed freely. Chef and team delighted us with many memorable courses perfectly paired to exquisite wines. Highlights from the menu included Wild Striped Bass with Persimmon, Turnip, Beurre Rouge paired with a 2015 Drouhin Vaudon Chablis Les Clos and Herb Roasted Leg of Lamb with Sea Island Red Peas paired with two lovely vintages of Castello Banfi Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva Poggio (1999 and 2001). The evening ended with a Chocolate-Mint Torte and auction winners taking home their goodies. It was a wonderful evening to remember. Everyone was looking forward to more great events to come this year. Vive la Chaîne! C

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EL IDEAS: Special Friends Sharing Special Wine

CHICAGO BY COLLEEN M. ROBERTS, Vice Chargée de Presse

PHOTO BY LORENZO TASSONE

FOR Chef/Owner Phillip Foss and his staff, the quest at EL ideas is to make fine dining approachable and fun. Over two nights, February 18 & 19, 2020, the Bailliage de Chicago experienced the full effect of the adventurous food and unique space, where no walls separate diners from chefs, and interaction with the kitchen team is encouraged. In keeping with the dinner party feel, each diner was asked to bring a special wine from his/her collection to share with the table. Throughout the meal, several people described their bottle to the group explaining its special meaning. Considered one of Chicago’s most important chefs, Foss produces intelligent and whimsical dishes that have earned EL ideas a Michelin star. The building housing EL ideas was originally used by Foss as a commissary for his food truck, MeatyBalls. Unsure of how to classify the space, a health department inspector gave Foss a restaurant license. EL ideas was born! “EL” refers to Chicago’s elevated train system, but also symbolizes the elevated ideas that give the restaurant its reputation for culinary boundary-pushing and interactive performance art. For example, the first course called Scallop Mimosa was served without utensils. Diners were instructed to lift the plate to their faces and lick it clean. After three additional seafood courses—all with knives and forks—a milkshake-like dish arrived. Poking a spoon through the middle released a puff of nitro smoke. Served in an authentic soda fountain glass, the Fries & Ice Cream was eerily reminiscent of dipping French fries into vanilla ice cream! The savory portion of the meal included pozole (aka “3-way Detroit”) and mussels in a tiny bread bowl covered in broccoli cheddar soup, which may be your new guilty pleasure! One of two desserts, simply called “sweet potato,” is considered one of Chicago’s top five dishes. As the group huddled in the kitchen, the chefs lit torches for baked Alaska with cherry ice cream. EL ideas was by far our most entertaining dining experience in years! C 48

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5 x 5 Mondiale Experience GREATER MIAMI BY NANCY RADLAUER, Bailli

ON January 25, 2020, Greater Miami Bailliage hosted a VIP Mondiale Exclusive at Johnson and Wales University, College of Culinary Arts, Miami. The evening commenced with a Le Nez du Vin ~ Bubbly Reception led by JWU wine instructor Yves Payraudeau. Le Nez is a learning tool that helps develop the sense of smell and creates a common language to describe, understand and better enjoy wine. Attendees nibbled and sipped as they explored the aromas and noted their findings on score cards. The member with the best olfactory acuteness won 1st prize, a bottle of wine! Attendees were ushered to the dining room to witness the inductions of 5 culinary students into Miami Chaîne. The ceremony was officiated by Bailli Provincial Southeast Honoraire Charles Radlauer. Each student was chosen based on merit, by our Vice Culinaire and Dean of the College, Bruce Ozga. An exceptional wine dinner ensued with 5 wines and 5 courses. The deconstructed Pastrami on Rye with beet puree provided an unexpected surprise. As did the varied presentations of the mussels and couscous. During dinner wine educator Pat Sullivan wowed the crowd with wine facts and fiction. On this occasion, Bailli Nancy Radlauer presented Miami Chaîne Scholarships of one thousand dollars to each of eight culinary students; gave special thanks to our generous members who support our scholarship endeavors; and acknowledged JWU instructor Chef Jeremy Houghton and his team of student volunteers. The evening was a stellar collaboration of Miami Chaîne and JWU, College of Culinary Arts. C

CUVÉE EXTRA 2020

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Far West Regional Chapitre BY SHERYLE ULYATE, Chargée de Presse Provinciale

PHOTOS BY DON FRITZ

NEWPORT Beach California was the beautiful destination chosen for the Far West Regional Chapitre and Young Chefs Competition February 28 through March 3, 2019.This region includes Bailliages from Arizona, California, Nevada, New Mexico and Utah --seventeen in all. A great turnout of Confrères and chefs from the region gathered at the Renaissance Marriot Hotel Newport Beach to begin the weekend. The competition was to be held at the Orange Coast Community College campus nearby. This event filled Chapitre was planned in great detail by Bailli Provincial Phillip Kress with the assistance of Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Dan Ketelaars and Echanson Provincial Chick Marshal. A Dine Around at several Newport Beach Chaîne restaurants was offered Thursday followed by a well attended Regional Board and Baillis meeting on Friday at the Renaissance Marriot. A welcome winemaker reception and dinner featured Justin Winery and provided a social meet-and-greet opportunity for the attendees. Vice Echanson Jim Gerakaris has a duel title of Sommelier and Head Wine Educator for Justin Winery. He guided

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us through a selection of Justin wines paired deliciously with the dinner courses in true Mondiale style. Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Robert Phillips was instrumental in planning and overseeing the Young Chef Competition activities at the OCCC campus. Saturday, the young chefs did their competition exercises under the supervision of a jury of well known experienced Chefs who evaluated the finished dishes. During this time Chaîne members enjoyed a sous vide cooking lesson and equipment demonstration followed by lunch and a tasting led by Dame de la Chaîne Roxanne Langer of very fine wines from Moraga Winery in Bel Air California next to Beverly Hills. People enjoying the Getty Museum can view art, antiquities and the Moraga Winery vineyards located just across the freeway. In the afternoon the competition winners were announced after an enthusiastic drum roll of fingers on the tables by the confrères. Kyle Pacheco from Santa Fe New Mexico was the Savory winner and Mark Serpas from Los Angeles was the Pastry winner. Judges were Chef Rôtisseurs William Bauer, Dieter


Dopplefeld, Cristian Potiggia and Jerry Dakan, Maître d’ Honneur Ferdinand Metz, Maître Rôtisseur Traiteur Sean Dent and Maître Rôtisseur Eric Ernest. The private Pacific Club was the perfectly elegant setting for the “sold out” formal Induction and Awards Dinner to cap off the Chapitre. The induction team, led by Bailli Délégué Hal Small and Chancelier National Ira Falk included Bailli Provencial Phil Kress, Chambellan Provencial Ranson Webster and Echanson Provincial Chic Marshal, brought ten new members into the Chaîne and inducted four of them into the Société Mondiale. They gave two promotions and then a Silver Star of Excellence to Bailli Provencial Phil Kress, a Bronze Mondiale Award was given to Vice Eschanson David Ashkenaze, Newport Beach, and the Bronze Star of Excellence was given to both Chargée de Missions Honoraire Daryl Kress, Laguna Beach, and Chargée de Presse Sheryle Ulyate, Newport Beach. Executive Chef David Martin created a lavish menu appropriate for the occasion and lovely French wines were thoughtfully paired with each course by Conseiller Gastronomique Provincial Dan Ketelaars, Echanson Provincial Chick Marshal and Bailli Provincial Phil Kress. Between courses Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Robert Phillips’ live auction entertained all with spirited bidding in the room that determined the winners of some very popular auction items. The proceeds went toward Far West Regional expenses. C CUVÉE EXTRA 2020

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Outgoing Board of Directors

Terms ended June 30, 2020

Harold S. Small

Marie C. Addario

Philip I. Kress

Ira A. Falk

Bertrand de Boutray

Maurice Nicholson

Stephen R. Gross

Eugene Daly

William Salomon

John H. Burson

John C. Fannin III

Mont Stern

Bruce W. Foudree

Alan R. Feuerstein

Susan Vareschi

Reimund D. Pitz

William A. Hirsh

Renee M. Wilmeth

Bailli Délégué National Chancelier National Argentier National

Chairman, The Chaîne Foundation Jurisconsulte

Conseiller Culinaire et des Professionnels National

Chargée de Presse National Bailli Provincial, Pacific Northwest Grand Echanson des Etats-Unis

Bailli Délégué des Etats‐Unis

Rufus Cressend

Chancelier des Etats‐Unis

Stephen R. Gross

Argentier des Etats‐Unis

Keith Chappell

Foundation Chair des Etats‐Unis

Charles Bennett

Grand Echanson des Etats-Unis

Ellen Rosenberg Jurisconsulte

Renee Wilmeth

Bailli Provincial, Hawaii/Pacific Islands Bailli Provincial, Southwest

Bailli Provincial, Mid-Atlantic

Bailli Provincial, Northeast

Bailli Provincial, Caribbean/Atlantic Islands Bailli Provincial, South Central

Incoming Board of Directors Bertrand de Boutray

Bailli Provincial, Far West

Bailli Provincial, Southeast Bailli Provincial, Midwest

Terms began July 1, 2020

Reimund D. Pitz

Conseiller Culinaire et des Professionnels des Etas‐Unis and Director

William Hirsh

Conseiller Gastronomique des Etats-Unis

John C. Fannin III

John Magauran

Bailli Provincial, Hawaii/Pacific Islands

Isabella Overend

Bailli Provincial, Caribbean/Atlantic

Richard Smith

Bailli Provincial, South Central

Bailli Provincial, Mid‐Atlantic

Mont P. Stern

Glenn Hammer

Bailli Provincial, Pacific Northwest

Cheryl Kenny

Bailli Provincial, Northeast

Susan L. Vareschi

Bailli Provincial, Southeast

Bailli Provincial, Southwest

Gregory Wallis

Philip Kress

Bailli Provincial, Midwest

Bailli Provincial, Far West

Harold S. Small

Chargée de Presse des Etats‐Unis

Bailli Délégué Honoraire

AUDIT COMMITTEE Terms ended June 30, 2020

AUDIT COMMITTEE Terms began July 1, 2020

Ann Sanford

Matthew Karstetter

Mark Berman

Paul Schulze

Allen Kutchins

Elliot Katz

Chairperson

Vice Chairperson Member

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Chairperson

Vice Chairperson Member


Baillis Délégués Honoraire Harold Small, 2014-2020

Joseph M. Girard, 1993–1996

Membre, Conseils d’Administration et Magistral (Paris) Commandeur

Grand Argentier, Membre, Conseils d’Administration et Magistral (Paris) Officier Commandeur

George H. Brown, Jr., 2008-2014

Doyle N. Rogers, 1990–1993

Membre Honoraire, Conseils d’Administration et Magistral (Paris) Commandeur

Joe T. Caruso, 2005-2008

Membre Honoraire, Conseils d’Administration et Magistral (Paris) Commandeur

David A. Wilson, 2004–2005

Membre Honoraire, Conseils d’Administration et Magistral (Paris) Officier Commandeur

Brooks Firestone, 2002–2004

Membre Honoraire, Conseils d’Administration et Magistral (Paris) Officier Commandeur

Burton H. Hobson, 1996–2002

Membre, Conseil d’Honneur, Membre, Conseil Magistral Membre Honoraire, Conseil d’ Administration Officier Commandeur

Larry Shupnick, 1989–1990

Membre, Conseil d’Honneur Grand Commandeur

Thomas R. Moore, 1988–1989 Roger L. Yaseen, 1975–1988

Membre, Conseil d’Honneur Membre, International Conseil d’Honneur Grand Commandeur

Zenon C. R. Hansen (Dec.), 1973–1975 Edward H. Benenson (Dec.), 1968–1973 Paul A. Spitler (Dec.), 1959–1968

CONTACT INFORMATION:

MANAGEMENT

Confrérie de la Chaîne des Rôtisseurs

Kevin Dunn

Chris Miller

Kathy Aber

Catherine Russell

Chaîne House at Fairleigh Dickinson University 285 Madison Avenue Madison, New Jersey 07940‐1099

Executive Director

Tel: (973) 360‐9200 Fax: (973) 360‐9330

Membership Director

Email: chaine@chaineus.org

Controller

Website: www.chaineus.org

Oxana Niser Judy Robinsky

Facebook: www.facebook.com/chaineus

Customer Service Manager

Instagram: www.instagram.com/chaineus

Felice Nussbaum

Twitter: www.twitter.com/chaineus Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/chaineus Youtube: www.youtube.com/channel/UC3CGfSpj-HBF0Lqdj4IbcVQ

Events Coordinator

Management Systems Consultant Marketing & Communications Consultant

Rachael Picazo, CPA Accounting Consultant


Profile for Chaîne des Rôtisseurs

Cuvée Extra / 2020  

A membership publication of the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs. Published by the U.S. Confrérie de la Chaîne des Rôtisseurs. ©2020 Chaîne des Rôtisse...

Cuvée Extra / 2020  

A membership publication of the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs. Published by the U.S. Confrérie de la Chaîne des Rôtisseurs. ©2020 Chaîne des Rôtisse...

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