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GAZETTE A free publication for visitors to Mozambique

Summer 2009

VOL. 2: No. 4

mozambique in the grip of soccer fever!

IN THIS ISSUE Football fever

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The dolphins of Ponta

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A very personal Place

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Marlin Lodge - Bazaruto Archipelago

Magaruque - a dhow adventure

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Bazaruto Island View Estate

16

Driving in Moz

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Ecot-Trivia

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Classifieds

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Next issue

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The golden orb spider

With the 2010 FIFA World Cup being held right on its doorstep, passion for the game has never been higher in Mozambique, where the sport was first introduced in 1922! In the spirit of the game, which pits one skilled team against another, soccer started competitively here with Sporting Clube de Lourenço Marques, now known as Clube de Desportos de Maxaquene, winning the first Lourenço Marques District Tournament held that year. (LM is now known as Maputo.) In 1956 a new league named Moçambique Colonial was born and its first champions were Ferroviário de Lourenço Marques which now is Ferroviário de Maputo.

PORTUGUESE PHRASES • Christmas – o Natal • Happy Christmas – feliz Natal • New Year – Ano Novo • Happy New Year – Feliz Ano Novo • New Year’s Eve – a véspera do dia de Ano Novo • Party - a festa • Cheers – saúde • Champagne – o champanhe • Beach party – a festa na praia • Blanket – o cobertor • Pudding – a sobremesa • I’ve got a hangover – estou de ressaca • Would you like to dance? - queres dançar? • Fancy a quick drink? - vamos tomar uma bebida?

During the year of Independence (1975), no competitions were played in Mozambique but matches recommenced in 1976, with the first champions being Textáfrica from the small town of Chimoio - this was a great victory for the presumed ‘under dogs’! MOÇAMBOLA

Vilankulo rising star - Félio

Soccer is everywhere in Mozambique! From the ‘informal’ fields which children set up on the beach or in the roads, using tightly rolled plastic bags as the ball, to official grounds, which can be found in every small town or village!


It is a national pastime and widely supported hobby which often sees passions running high! Currently Mozambique’s Soccer League is known as Moçambola and teams from across the nation participate in this premier event, which culminates in a fiercely contested, annual grand final. In order to qualify to play in Moçambola teams participate in Regional Leagues (south, centre and north) with the winners being promoted to the Moçambola, similar to the way that soccer is played in Europe. PRIVATELY OWNED TEAM Private ownership of a team is a new phenomenon in Mozambique, in fact only one team is owned by a private individual – Vilankulo Futebol Clube (VFC), which was founded in 2004 and purchased by Vilankulo based, dynamic, young businessman Yassin Amuji in 2008. Yassin has already made a considerable investment in the future of his team. “VFC started playing official competition in March 2005” he explains. “This was the first time a Vilankulo based team played in an official league and they were also the first team in the Province to be published in the national Gazette. “My investment to date of around US$1.8m, has included the purchase of a 30 seater bus, acquiring new players, and arranging new projects for the club with the vision, which we have just realised - to qualify for Moçambola main league in 2010. This is a great triumph for us. VFC is the first Mozambican team to have an official shop selling its exclusive merchandise and we are now all very excited about wearing our colours in Moçambola.”


VFC team members during training

They start young!

THE MAMBAS! Under the guidance of their coach Mart Nooij from the Netherlands, players in the national team, affectionately known as the Mambas - after the snake with a lightning fast strike, are local heroes, with supporters passions running high every time they play. A new US$100 million, National Stadium, scheduled for completion in December 2010, is currently under construction in Maputo, this will also further the local development of the game which is a source of national pride.

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The new team boasts many key players including their captain Joaquim Albano Victorino, Belo, Gerson, Catorze, Adino and the exciting new teenager Félio, who is loved by everyone in town for his personality and his technique. Having one or more of its players selected for the National team is the dream of this enthusiastic club and its committed owner. CONCLUSION All eyes are glued to TV screens as the qualifying matches for FIFA 2010 World Cup are being played, especially when the Mambas take to the field. Hopes run high, but above all Mozambique’s participation in these principle stages has united its nation of football lovers behind their team and those of other African countries. ‘Viva Footebol’ is the cry!


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THE DOLPHINS OF PONTA Research based awareness!

In the beginning The myths and legends of dolphins find their way back into our ancestral roots. Since time immemorial they have been closely associated with mankind, greatly to our benefit. One needs only to explore the mythical realm of the dolphin to see their magnificence portrayed in artifacts strewn across the globe. Greek and Roman coins dating as far back as 300BC together with temple paintings at the Oracle of Dephi and artworks by great painter Rafael demonstrate how deeply this special species is connected to humanity. The 28th December 1994 marked the beginning of official inter-species relations between man and dolphin in Ponta do Ouro, on Mozambique’s southern coast. Time seemingly stood still when in the shallows of the bay, a naïve and somewhat frightened young city girl experienced moments of intrigue followed by a surge of trust when she came face to face with a dolphin mother and calf. Effortlessly suspended in their watery realm mere meters away, the strange, penetrating sound of the couple’s sonar could be heard and felt as they ‘read’ the being before them. Were they to know that this human and her kind – beings somewhat similar but in the same breath completely different to themselves, would become regular visitors to their world? Periodic visits aimed specifically at observing this highly intelligent species whom, amongst other things, are self aware and exhibit cultural heritage, soon saw the development of what was to be Africa’s first permanently based dolphin interaction and research facility. An initial

Angie Gullan

baseline pilot study was undertaken to assess the frequency of cetaceans in the area together with the sustainability of a dedicated marine mammal based tourism project. By the late 90’s, under the guidance of various institutes and marine mammal experts, Dolphin Encounters had developed an interactive experience aimed at creating a safe space where both dolphins and humans may interact.

Scientific Research Resident female bottlenose dolphins Ingrid and Gawane, The majority of the resting pod can be seen below in the background.

Bo - short for bottle opener. Note the ‘rake’ marks on her dorsal fin caused by other dolphins.

Humpback dolphin calf in the company of an adult bottlenose dolphin. Notice the difference in the dorsal fins, hence the name humpback

An informal memorandum of understanding was established with Dr Almeida Guissamulo at the Natural History Museum of the University Eduardo Mondalane in Maputo to ensure that high ethical practices, together with scientifically beneficial research, were maintained. A comprehensively designed dolphin program encompassing the specifically created ‘dolphin-careafrica in-water code of conduct’ and ‘snorkeling guidelines’ together with in depth information on behaviour, species encountered and other topics of interest, now effectively balances science, spirit and safety for both species. Over a decade later, the project has recorded some 4000 encounters with various marine mammals including regular sightings of two coastal species of dolphin. Mozambique’s resident Indian Ocean Bottlenose dolphin (Tursiops aduncus) and the Indo Pacific Hump Back dolphin (Sousa plumbea) are cross border species which are regularly sighted moving between the Kosi Bay Sanctuary and the newly proclaimed Ponta Partial Marine Protected Area (PPMPA). > pg 8

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Dolphins coming through!

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Human interaction

Respect

Work took an interesting turn in the late 90’s when a young female dolphin who was soon to be named Bo (her fin resembled a bottle opener) took interacting with dolphins to a new level in Ponta do Ouro. Although in the past some very profound interactions with the resident dolphins had been experienced, this female was genuinely interested in close contact. As long as we followed the rules and did not extend our arms to touch her, she would venture close enough for us to feel the slipstream generated by her circling body. Soon the term ‘circle swimming’ was coined to describe the act whereby a dolphin consciously interacts with humans. Today there are numerous individual dolphins that enjoy this type of communication.

Bo and many other resident dolphins have given us the wonderous opportunity of in-water contact, however it is important to remember that dolphins are wild and should never be forced into interaction. Sometimes they will not want to interact with you and this can be deduced through specific behaviour, posture and travel patterns. So always interact with these gentle creatures responsibly and on their terms, moving slowly and calmly as they come closer to us, steering your boat slowly and carefully – and swimming alongside them respectfully. We are guests in their home and want to always be welcomed by them both today and when we return with our children!

Residents in the bay!

Tail slapping is a sign of irritation and dolphins use this as a form of communicating how they are feeling. This can be directed at both humans and other dolphins within the vicinity.

In water observations


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A very personal place...

The spectacularly scenic Bazaruto Archipelago with its row of four pristine main islands facing the Mozambican mainland opposite the quaint towns of Vilankulo and Inhassoro, is home to a variety of exclusive lodges. Here visitors can base themselves in unique surroundings of unparalled beauty whilst enjoying a variety of water sports and natural adventures.

Home from home Built with supreme comfort in mind - it is quite often a simple, yet unique service that differentiates the various lodges. At Marlin Lodge, situated on the south western shore of Benguerra Island, second largest of the four islands, it is the sense of family, of coming home to a beloved residence, that is this delightful lodge’s unique selling point! Here the staff are not only friendly and welcoming, they take time to chat, to find out about you and to make you feel special. Usually the role of the duty manager, at Marlin all the management staff are involved. As you relax at the elegant bar in the evening you may be engaged in conversation by everyone from the charming GM - Peter De Klerk to the Dive Instructor and housekeeper - and even the executive chef! These brief, yet personal greetings, cement a feeling of belonging that has visitors returning time and time again to their ‘home’ at Marlin! Proudly Mozambican This sense of home coming is further enhanced by the intimate size of the lodge which offers an exclusive 14 luxury sea-facing suites and 3 executive beach suites, each built from Mozambican hardwood, with

reed-clad brick walls and thatched ‘jecca’ roofs, creating a private ambience which is in perfect harmony with the natural beauty of the surroundings. Attention to detail, soft, inviting furnishings and colours that reflect the lush island greenery and sparkling blue ocean, complete the picture. The rooms are spacious, the executive suites - enormous! Each has all mod cons from tea/coffee making facilities to star showers and luxurious beds, and each offers privacy for honeymooners and for those who simply want their own personal space in which to relax! Activities There is plenty to do - or one can simply do nothing as your mood dictates! A variety of water sports, deep sea fishing, water skiing, dhow trips around the island, diving etc - the list is endless, are on offer. With over 2000 fish species and over a hundred coral species, a kaleidoscope of colour awaits you below the surface of the crystal clear waters. Alternatively the inviting pool and warm azure waters are waiting to tempt the less energetic, as is the relaxing Wellness Centre where trained staff are on hand to pamper you. > pg 12 11


For those who simply can’t be out of touch for too long, contact with the outside world can be maintained through the complimentary internet facilities at the Business Centre. The dining is fine, with a select menu of beautifully presented food on offer at meal times, served with attention to the minutest detail by highly trained staff. Meals are served either in the spacious dining room - or on the beach itself, where the setting sun casts its golden glow over the tranquil waters of the bay. A special way to end the day!

Making memories Marlin Lodge, Benguerra Island, is a delightful getaway - one which fulfils all one’s expectations of a luxury lodge set on a beautiful private island. It’s a place which makes both memories and friends, somewhere to return to time and again, with new experiences to be enjoyed on each and every visit!

Community The Lodge takes pride in its involvement with the local community on the island and, with the generous support of guests, has funded several outreach programmes from building and equipping the local school to running a regular soup kitchen - thus broadening its extended family to also include local inhabitants. All visitors are welcome to participate in this upliftment if they wish to - offering a rare opportunity to give back to the community which supports the Lodge.

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Contact the lodge on: marlinlodge@vodamail.co.mz or visit the web site www.marlinlodge.co.za


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Contact +258 823 180460 + 258 823 180450 bigbluelda@teledata.moz 13

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Full sails in the sunset MAGICAL Magaruque ISLAND A DHOW ADVENTURE

We met fellow Magaruque Island explorers at Sailaway’s offices, close to the harbour in downtown Vilankulo, Inhambane Province. Here we received a friendly welcome from dhow tour operator Dave and his team, before being kitted out with dive boots (necessary for the sharp reefs) and snorkelling equipment. Then it was a short walk to the beach where the dhows awaited us. Our adventure had began! It was a beautiful day as we set off across the myriad blues of the ocean to the unspoiled island of Magaruque, where Sailaway have created a day camp for explorers of land and sea! As we motored gently across the bay enjoying the sight of a dolphin mother and her calf who frolicked nearby, the chef made us hot tea and coffee on the coals in a container in the centre of the dhow! Magical!

GREAT SNORKELLING Magaruque is one of the smaller islands in the Bazaruto Archipelago, and boasts an easily accessible base reef which is home to a vast array of underwater life, providing a great opportunity to experience the unspoiled beauty below the ocean for which the area is renowned. The camp provides shade cover and pristine loo’s right at the edge of a tidal lagoon – perfect swimming for the little ones, who can enjoy the tranquil waters and safe bathing as mom and dad relax nearby! The snorkelling is exciting here, as the current takes you effortlessly over the reef, requiring very little fin power! Return to the ‘start’ as many times as you like to maximise your viewing opportunities. Lunch is cooked on the dhow and served under the shade cover. It is informal and unpretentious, fresh fish cooked over glowing coals, served with rice and salad - it fills those hungry tummies! Cool drink is on offer, those wanting different beverages can take their own cooler box which we recommend.

SAILAWAY DHOW SAFARIS

+258 293 82385 / +258 293 84054 / +258 823876350 or email david@sailaway.co.za

TIMELESS EXPERIENCE Magaruque Island is worth exploring! A walk completely around it takes about an hour and a half – good exercise before lunch, and the scenery is special! After lunch a leisurely dip in the lagoon and then it’s time to board the dhow for home. The sails are unfurled for this leg of the journey and the sound of the wind in the canvas is memorable as one envisages fishermen and discoverers of time gone by. What Vasco da Gama thought when he first caught sight of the beauty of the area is easy to imagine in this setting! He must have been breathless! The smell of hot popcorn had us all licking our lips – yes, fresh hot popcorn served with tea and coffee, cooked on board, were eagerly consumed on the return journey. What a way to end the day .. the setting sun, the lapping waves, wind in the sails, sun kissed skin and sand between our toes, a magical experience was coming to a perfect end! We will return for this reasonably priced, delightful day with nature time and time again! Thanks to the wonderful staff and management of Sailaway for creating such a unique opportunity ... and if a day isn’t enough - overnight trips in the area are also available! 15


Crystal clear waters, verdant bush ... An unparalled African investment opportunity

Warm tropical waters and white sandy unspoilt beaches stretching for miles and miles, situated on the boundary of a national marine park in a world heritage site Bazaruto Island View Estate is an eco residential security estate. Offering investors and visitors the opportunity to experience the rare and beautiful sea life on your doorstep. As the tide retreats from the Archipelago, sandbanks and rocks jut out. One may even find a lost warm rock pool in which to sip sundowners. The sun sets at the back of the estate, the mysterious night sounds of the African bush come alive over the sounds of the ocean waves crashing on the beach only meters away. The Bazaruto Island View Estate developers have managed to capture some of the most important getaway experiences in one development. A short two-hour flight from Johannesburg or for the more adventurous at heart, there is a drive through Mozambique to reach Vilankulos, approximately 1200km from central Johannesburg. On arrival at the Bazaruto Island View Estate, you can settle in for sundowners on the top deck of the Beach Bar, restaurant and lodgehoused in a wreck of a local fishing boat on the beach. With the infinite African trails into the interior and further north, the pristine safe beaches offers the family, and nature lovers – an array of flora and fauna, rare and beautiful bird life, and extraordinary and scarce sea life, indigenous to the Bazaruto Archipelago. It is here that you will find the leatherback and loggerhead turtles, dugongs, cycads and over 273 species of hardwood trees, which form a natural part of this region.

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Guiding the heart and soul of this project, Ettiene Erasmus, who has over 16 years of experience in Mozambique in general and especially in the area and around Vilankulos itself, shares his vision with us. “We are obsessed with the natural beauty and conservation thereof in this area. Some of the first potential buyers wanted to bring in Jet skis and big fishing boats, but we turned them down. Our vision is of a totally eco friendly development.

Artists rendition of typical dwelling.

We want our residents to experience the beauty and splendour of this amazing place in its absolute natural state. The reefs around the archipelago are some of the most renowned in Africa.� Ettiene guides us through the site plans, highlighting the magnificent beach front on aerial photos, and the never ending African bushveld around the estate. With plots ranging from between 600 and 1500 square meters. The developers have left all the roads leading up to the estate as well as inside the boundaries as dirt tracks. The estate without the typical 6ft high walls and electric fences distinctive of homes in South Africa, presents a dense indigenous SPINOUSA hedge fence, forming an impenetrable barrier around the estate. Phase 1 is a full title development, with prices starting at R500000.00 with the developers offering in house financing for up to 10 years. On the higher end with 2 beach front stands available at R3 500 000.00 each.


Sasol’s new gas projects are situated less than 100km along the coastal area from the estate, with a potential 33000 new permanent jobs to accompany the projects. Demand for these kinds of properties puts investors in a position of substantial return on any investment. Ettiene reports, “there is a good chance that a healthy rental market will emerge to support the investors wanting good returns on their investment”. Phase 2 will see the development of the Lagoon side , a Hotel, small cratfs marina, shops and moorings.

Artists rendition of typical dwelling.

A helipad, small aircraft hangars and boathouse are on the plans and will make it easy for the owners to incorporate their favourtie play “gadgets” into estate living at Bazaruto Island View Estate. An important question – What do people do here? Well apart from the beautiful days on the beach, residents can enjoy snorkeling, easy access to other lodges and superb restaurants on the islands of Bazaruto, Magaruque and Benguerra and on the Mainland. Windsurfing, parasailing, waterskiing and sailing. There is nothing better than kayaking on the open water. Contact BIVE on Johannesburg +27 11 467 4443 or sales@mozamprops.net


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> pg 22 19


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> pg 23 22


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She’s a beauty! Her long elegant legs and tapering body are banded with yellow rings as she sits patiently on her giant web - woven from golden, iridescent silk which gleams in the sun. This is reputedly the strongest spider web in the world! It is from the colour of her web, which she can lighten or darken to blend in with her environment - that this magnificent spider gets its name. From the species Nephilia - Golden Orb spiders are to be found in many different countries and are also called golden orb-weavers, giant wood spiders, writing spiders or banana spiders. The Golden Orb weaves intricate, slightly angled, off centred webs, designed to catch large flying insects, by first releasing a thin thread into

the wind. When the thread catches on something, the spider walks along it trailing a stronger non-sticky thread. The process is repeated in the centre of the line to form a strong Y-frame. Around this the rest of the web is spun out of sticky capture silk, suspended in a maze of non-sticky spirals – the finished web may measure over 1 metre! This silken web, which is maintained daily, is so strong that it can trap small birds, which often destroy the web by thrashing around. These are not the spider’s favourite food and to avoid such damage, she will often leave a line of insect husks on the web (like the safety strip across glass doors) or build smaller barrier webs around the main web to deter larger creatures.

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Breeding

The male is many times smaller than the female, so tiny that he can live on the female’s web, stealing her food, often without her even noticing him! She may not even notice that he has crept up and inseminated her! Nevertheless, just to protect himself from becoming a tasty meal, he usually approaches only when she is feeding. The female buries her eggs in the ground, digging a shallow hole with her strong mandibles and legs, which is then lined with woolly silk

Role in the habitat

Like other predators, these spiders have an important role to play. Theirs is to control the insect population. They are in turn preyed upon by other creatures such as birds. The Golden Orb’s venom is generally harmless to humans and they rarely bite even if their nets are accidentally stumbled into and if they do the bite is a mere scratch.

Applications

Tribal people have long used the webs of these spiders. In the South Pacific, the web silk is used to make fishing lures, traps and nets. In the Solomon Islands, the spider web is collected by winding it around sticks to make large sticky balls which are suspended just above the water. Needle fish are lured to jump out and get entangled in the ball. In Southeast Asia, people make a net by scooping up the web between a stick bent into a loop. Spider webs have been used as bandage to stop blood flow and used to make bird snares. These spiders are extremely prevalent in Mozambique – where large ‘colonies’ can often be spotted in trees and shrubs along the road side.

An important role

These large, but gentle spiders play an important role in the environment, controlling insect populations and providing a visual display of symmetric beauty. Look but don’t touch .... they deserve to be left in peace to exist alongside man to everyone’s benefit!


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A free publication for visitors to Mozambique

PUBLISHED BY JJ Investments Lda, Vilankulo, Mozambique Tel: +258 844 090 761 or + 27 83 654 1117 Nuit: 400116761 coralcoastgazette@gmail.com Advertising bookings: coralcoastgazette@gmail.com CCG NOW available online in page flip format www.coralcoastgazette.co.za

This time last year (December 2008) a new magazine dedicated to visitors to Mozambique was born! The Coral Coast Gazette is now celebrating its first birthday and we would like to extend our grateful thanks to the advertisers who make it possible for us to communicate with you! Producing a quality publication which informs and interests readers was our goal. We are proud to have achieved this and look forward, with our advertisers continued support, to continuing to do so in 2010. A happy festive season, safe travels and fine holidays to you all!

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ADVERTISING MATERIAL Coral Coast Gazette is printed in standard A4 format. F/P: Trim: 210 x 297 Bleed: 220 x 307 Type area: 190 x 277 Material should be supplied as PDF or hi res JPEG directly to coralcoastgazette@gmail.com PUBLISHING SCHEDULE The Coral Coast gazette is published 4 times annually in March, June, September and December. GRAPHIC DESIGN The Coral Coast Gazette is designed by Jasmine Cross London, England design@jasminecross.com www.jasminecross.com PHOTOGRAPHY. The Coral Coast Gazette appreciates the beautiful photographs which illustrate our editorial pages - courtesy of freelance Netherlands based photographer, Jason Janetzky. CIRCULATION The Coral Coast Gazette is distributed free of charge, primarily through advertisers outlets, at select airport arrivals, tourist offices and other tourist venues and therefore has a growing circulation.

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Disclaimer Whilst very effort is made to provide factual reporting, the Coral Coast Gazette is not responsible for any inaccuracies contained, particularly in material supplied by advertisers. Copyright Š Copyright exists on all material which may not be copied or reproduced in any way without prior written permission being obtained from the publishers JJ Investments Lda. REGISTO: 07/GABINFO/DEC-09


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