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TR AV EL

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LUXURY

GOODS

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ECONOMIC

AFFAIRS

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ART

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C U LT U R E

A NEW EXPERIENCE BEYOND LUXURY

BAO BAO WA N My Favourites PHILIPPE LEOPOLD-METZGER My Vision of Life In conversation with I TA L I A I N D E P E N D E N T

Economics in DAV O S Art focus on MUSEO JUMEX City lifestyle in DUBAI


TO BREAK THE RULES, YOU MUST FIRST MASTER THEM. IN 1993, AUDEMARS PIGUET CHANGED THE WORLD OF THE SPORTS WATCH FOREVER. THE POWERFUL ARCHITECTURE OF THE ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE BECAME THE ULTIMATE STATEMENT IN PERFORMANCE HAUTE HOROLOGY. THE 2014 ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE COLLECTION MOVES THE GAME ON ONCE MORE; THE HAND-ENGRAVED 22 CARAT GOLD OSCILLATING MASS NOW VISIBLE THROUGH THE SAPPHIRE CASEBACK, A WINDOW ONTO 139 YEARS OF HOROLOGICAL MASTERY.

BOUTIQUE MILANO - VIA MONTENAPOLEONE N. 6 MILANO - THE BRIAN&BARRY BUILDING SANBABILA VENEZIA - PIAZZA SAN MARCO N. 18 PORTO CERVO - VIA LA PASSEGGIATA N. 3/B TEL. +39 02 67493105

ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE

IN PINK GOLD. CHRONOGRAPH.


EDITOR’S NOTE

Dear friends, Spring calls for new beginnings, it is a time to start anew and it is with an immense pleasure that I welcome you to the fifth issue of Cercle Editions. In this exciting new issue, we take a closer look at the World Economic Forum , also known as the Annual Meeting, as well as Bao Bao Wan, China’s favorite socialite, who gives us an exclusive insight of her favorites. John F. Kennedy once said “too often, we enjoy the comfort of opinion without the discomfort of thought” but there is no doubt Alexander “Rai” Hamilton, the corporate financier-turned-writer put a a lot of thinking into his acidic opinion column about the current state of French politics. An echo to the season, our editorial shoot and wishlist are a capsule of the most coveted pieces of this Spring. We also take the chance to delve into the world of the iconic fashion house Prada, and explore the paradisiac emirate of Dubai. Museo Jumex, the latest effort of Eugenio López, promises to be one of the most exciting happening on the Mexico City contemporary art scene and we take a closer look at the behind the scenes. A busy social season closes this issue with weddings, sports events and the famous Oscars after parties. I wish our Cercle club an enchanting Summer and I hope you enjoy exploring our issue as much as we enjoyed its (re)birth.

GABRIELE SALVADORI Founder and Editor-In-Chief


Creative Center RD, Creative Director Alvaro Maggini

ATCH:  Chopard L.U.C 150 All in One White Gold Tourbillon

Exclusive RD101 Manufacture movement 4 sprung balances, 5 differentials

The only Manufacture to be 100% Poinçon de Genève certified. The most demanding signature in fine watchmaking.


CONTENTS 06

MY VISION OF LIFE

PHILIPPE LEOPOLD-METZGER

10

ECONOMICS

64 66

OPINION

QBARA

JEWEL STORY

CRUSHED

26

WATC H S TO RY

BEST OF THE BEST - SIHH BASELWORLD

34

M Y FAV O U R I T E S

BAO BAO WAN

40

FASHION STORIES

T H E G L A M O U R O F I TA L I A N FA S H I O N 1 9 4 5 - 2 0 1 4

46

E S S AY

52 56

79

IN THE MOOD FOR

MARCOS MARIN - A LIVING LEGEND

82

INTERIORS

ERIC KUSTER

88

PLANES

90

WINE

C H ÂT E A U S M I T H H A U T L A F I T T E

96

I N C O N V E R S AT I O N WITH

100 SOCIAL SEASON

WISHLIST

ACADEMY AWARDS WEEK

L’ O R M A R I N S Q U E E N ’ S P L A T E

BEAUTY

CHUKKER, SNOW & DIAMONDS

TRICHOLOGY

FROM EAST TO WEST

HERO PRODUCTS

THE WEDDING OF KRISTINA AND ZEIN

ART JUMEX

112 SHOPPING LIST

MUSEO JUMEX

62

AUCTIONS

CHRISTIE’S DUBAI

I TA L I A I N D E P E N D E N T

A WEAPON OF LOVE

50

78

GULFSTREAM G650

ICONIC

PRADA - THE MAKING OF AN ICON

42

DUBAI POLO DUBAI AGENDA

RELAX UNTIL FRANCE COMES BACK TO LIFE

20

CITY LIFESTYLE

ART DUBAI

DAVOS

14

P L AC E S TO S TAY

PLACES

H Ô T E L D ’A N G L E T E R R E G E N E V A

Founder & Editor-in-Chief GABRIELE SALVADORI  Publisher Cercle Ltd ® 5 Vigo Street, Mayfair, London, W1S 3HB, UK

10-31-1668 Certifié PEFC pefc-france.org

Cercle is a ® Registered Trademark.· Printing in whole or in part is expressly forbidden without written permission from the publisher. The publisher declines any responsability for manuscripts and photos sent directly. The views expressed in the magazine are those of the contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine.

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Creative Center RD, Creative Director Alvaro Maggini

Exclusive RD821 Manufacture movement Self-winding movement

The only Manufacture to be 100% Poinçon de Genève certified. The most demanding signature in fine watchmaking.

I s s u e N4 | 4


P hilippe Leopold-Metzger MY VISION OF LIFE

Philippe Leopold-Metzger has been the Chief Executive Officer of Piaget since 1999. He is the archetype of a modern company director whose training and field of action are quintessentially international.  He joined Cartier in Paris as product manager in 1981 and has remained within the Cartier-Vendôme-Richemont family ever since.  In successive three-year to four-year periods, he has shouldered major responsibilities in several companies within the group.

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Image by The Holly wood Repor ter


MY VISION OF LIFE

Under his leadership, Piaget has developed its network of boutiques in a highly selective manner, increased significantly its presence and corresponding consumer awareness in Asia while continuing to grow in the rest of the world.  An era also marked by the inauguration of the new Piaget manufacture in Plan-les-Ouates and heavy investments in the development of movements completely manufactured in-house.  This allowed Piaget to reach again the position as The master of ultra-thin watches. Supporting simultaneously the jewellery watches and the jewellery where creativity and innovation continue to make Piaget a Unique Brand.

A GLOBAL CITIZEN I had the great privilege of being raised in a very international minded family.  To start with I was born in New York.  During my childhood in France, I travelled a lot and it was always clear that I would at one stage go back to the USA to complete my studies.  I went to Kellog for my MBA, and then started working for American Cyanamid in New Jersey before returning to Paris to work for them.  At that time I seized the opportunity to join Cartier.  For the past 33 years, I have worked for Cartier and Piaget, both belonging to Richemont, in France, Canada, the UK twice, Hong-Kong and also twice in Switzerland. The world is my oyster.  I love people, and I love what makes each country different, the culture, the art, the food and the traditions. Understanding and recognizing cultural differences has been very helpful during my career. My wife and myself have taken great care that our children are raised with the same global vision.  Today my oldest son works in Dubai, and my youngest son who is a management consultant works across Europe.  My wife represents Shanghai Tang in Switzerland thus promoting Chinese products and art. Family is my only drug, and keeping the right balance between work and family has been instrumental in my life.

ENTREPRENEUR Even though I work for a very large multinational, I consider Piaget as my own company and for the past fifteen years, I have worked very hard to develop it and promote its products across the world.  With 1200 employees around the world, it is the perfect size where I can keep in touch with my colleagues, and share with them my vision and my passion. Team work is essential for me.  Believing in people is a key principle in my management style.  When you trust someone, he is going to perform to your expectation. In luxury, control is key.  This is also the greatest challenge.  To delegate, yet to know exactly what is happening from design, to development, to production, and to sales, across the organization.  The best way is to have everything integrated under one roof.  Or rather under two roofs, as we continue to operate from Geneva for all the production of watch cases and bracelets and from La Côte-aux-Fées for all the movements.  At Piaget, the only stars are the products. My greatest achievement has been to keep Piaget very exclusive, yet develop sales significantly. Today we sell only watches and jewellery, because we have only expertise and legitimacy both as a great Watchmaker and a great Jeweller. We still only sell gold and precious products, the only exception being

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one sport/casual watch also available in titanium to make it less heavy.  Each product is still made the old fashioned way, by hand. If my dreams become reality, it is only thanks to the great Watchmakers and Jewellers working within the company.

RE TA IL ER In the early 90’s, when watches were traditionally only sold within retailers, I had the vision to start selling Piaget in our own stores.  Today we have a network of more than 90 Piaget stores across the world.  Many brands have followed since.  Retail allows brands to be in direct contact with the end consumer.  This is a great privilege to be able to meet extraordinary people across the world.  My greatest thrill is when clients come to Geneva and visit the manufactures.

“In luxury, control is key.  This is also the greatest challenge.” PHIL ANTHROPY I have always listened to my parents saying that it is easier to give than to ask.  I try to live up to this and so does my wife who is Vice President of Action Innocence, a major charity fighting against pedophilia on internet. I give time, and I am very proud to be able to finance scholarships in several countries around the world. I believe that education is the solution to many problems. With Piaget, we are supporting many causes, but one is very important for me at the moment: setting up and operating a big telemedicine project in Bolivia, and thus saving many lives…

POSITIVE I have always been an optimist.  Mind you, when you are in good health, have a great family and a successful business career, it is easier. One of my motto is “when there is a will there is a way”.  Working well with people makes it also much easier to find solutions when problems arise.  Being positive makes communication with others easier.  If you are enthusiastic about products, about projects, people can feel it.

LOYA LT Y Having been married for 32 years with the same wife, and worked for the past 33 years with the same group, it is fair to say that loyalty is deeply rooted within me. In my business, loyalty greatly matters.  My success within Piaget is only the reflection of what many of my colleagues have done.  Many of them were there when I took over end 99.  Luxury is a longterm business, and for me it is essential that the teams are there long enough to implement our shared vision.

“One of my motto is ‘when there is a will there is a way’.”

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DAVOS ECONOMICS

Every year in January, a little alpine resort in the Swiss Alps hosts one of the most important world conventions; the unique and signature event of the World Economic Forum (WEF), otherwise known as the Davos annual meeting.   by Farah Hesdin

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Against the backdrop of the Plessur and Albula mountain ranges, world leaders meet both formally, through official sessions over a five-day schedule, and informally, around a cheese or chocolate fondue.  In its commitment to ‘improve the State of the World’, the yearly and invitation-only event brings together powerful minds from all walks of life ‘to develop and shape global, regional and industry agendas’, as the organisation phrases itself. Founded by business professor Klaus Schwab in 1971 as the ‘European Management Forum’, the organisation then morphs into its current name; the ‘World Economic Forum’, in 1987, in line with its widened objective to channel discussion of international concern and significance.  Since then, the foundation devotedly clings onto its mission to make the world a better, healthier and more economically viable place.  Through what it boasts to be an impartial and neutral platform, the WEF assembles in Davos about 2,500 global leaders from various fields including the political sphere, business world, academia and media, among others, to discuss pressing issues affecting our present and future. Each year, these distinguished guests come under the umbrella of a specific theme to discuss its ramifications and impacts on our world.  Past themes include “Resilient Dynamism”, setting the agenda for Davos 2013; “The Great Transformation: Shaping New Models”, crowning the Davos 2012 meeting and “Shared Norms for the New Reality”, outlining the Davos 2011 discussion.  From tackling environmental issues, charting poverty-reduction goals or finding solutions to international conflicts, Davos meetings start developing the distinctive reputation of being key influential forces in shaping international decision-making.  They not only feed valuable discussions, but also seek to map changes through action-oriented, future-driven dialogue in the constant aim of finding the best course of action to achieve better solutions for all. In fact, the impact Davos forums have had on the world stage are unequivocal.  Some iconic examples in the history of the meeting include the development of a draft agreement on Gaza and Jericho between Israeli Foreign Minister Shimon Peres and PLO Chairman Yasser Arafat at the 1994 meeting; the Davos Declaration agreed on and signed by two historical foes, Greece and Turkey, during the 1988 meeting, preventing a potential war between the two countries; and more recently, the initiative launched in 2006 by business magnate and philanthropist Bill Gates, United Kingdom’s then-Chancellor of the Exchequer Gordon Brown and Nigeria’s President at the time, Olusegun Obasanjo, to work on a global plan to stop tuberculosis, the ‘Stop TB Partnership’. Davos 2014, the 44th and latest annual meeting of the WEF has just opened the New Year under the thematic focus: “The Reshaping of the World: Consequences for Society, Politics and Business”; a discussion that ran between the 22nd and 25th of January 2014.  Founder and executive chairman of WEF, Klaus Schwab, explains the choice of the word ‘reshaping’.  The latter, he says, points to a global landscape that is constantly changing as a result of deep political, economic, social and technological altering forces.  These transformative waves are leading towards the production of a very different, reshaped world that we can already expect to take form in just 10 years’ time. In line of this perspective, the aim of Davos 2014 is to talk about how the ‘reshaped world’ will look like and the faces it is likely to have in a decades’ time.  Growing threats such as continuous climate change and rising unemployment are amongst the risks that need to be tackled as we gradually move into the reshaped world.  But there are opportunities too.  The many technological innovations that are virtually revolutionising our every day lives are one example attesting to the dramatic transformation that is currently taking place, among other drivers of constructive change.  Discussing both risks and opportunities, in order to channel the ideal course of action needed to best prepare for the reshaped world is at the fore-

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ECONOMICS

front of the Davos 2014 agenda. Participating in this year’s meeting is a long list of high-profile attendees and speakers from a variety of different fields, including Managing Director of the International Monetary Fund (IMF), Christine Lagarde; Japan Prime Minister, Shinzō Abe; CEO and Chairman of Goldman Sachs, Lloyd Blankfein; Group Chief Executive of Barclays, Antony Jenkins; President of Brazil, Dilma Rousseff; British Prime Minister, David Cameron; President and CEO of Yahoo!, Marissa Mayer; President of the European Central Bank, Mario Draghi; United States Secretary of State, John Kerry; Senior Vice-President and Chief Business Officer at Google, Nikesh Arora; President of the Islamic Republic of Iran, Hassan Rouhani; Chief Economics Commentator at the Financial Times, Martin Wolf; President of the Rockefeller Foundation, Judith Rodin; CEO of Total, Christophe de Margerie and lead singer of U2, Bono, to name just a few. Although this year’s meeting dealt with a plethora of subjects and issues, the event can be highlighted by some dominant, leading thematic hubs.  Of course, one of the main topics at the core of this year’s agenda is the state of the global economic landscape.  The global economy, although recovering, is still underperforming.  More than five years after the global financial crisis and despite aggressive monetary policies, both advanced and emerging economies are following rather slow growths; underlining weak recovery on a global scale.  Moreover, most of the global recovery is coming from industrialised economies and not developing ones; creating a widening divide in between.  The gap between rich and poor is increasing, presenting an important obstacle to global prosperity.  Extreme poverty remains a real issue with 1 billion people still living under 1.25 dollars a day. Global prospects are very much influenced by what happens in advanced economies, as IMF Managing Director, Christine Lagarde, stresses, and she especially shares her concerns about the eurozone.  With a eurozone inflation rate standing at 0.8%, much below the target of close to 2%, Lagarde warns of a possible deflation risk and thus possible obstacle to growth.  While Lagarde sees this as a potential concern, President of the European Central Bank Mario Draghi states that inflation is subdued, but that deflation does not present a real issue at this moment in time.  Tax issues are also in the spotlight of the Davos 2014 discussion, with governments expressing their intent to make sure that everyone, both individuals and corporations, pay what is owed.  One aspect that remains certain, however, is the optimism, although cautious, maintained by global leaders regarding this year’s global economic outlook, with a helping picture forecasted by the IMF that puts the world economy’s expected growth at 3.6% this year, compared to 3% in 2013.  Although slow, recovery is happening. The rise of unemployment, especially of youth unemployment, is a major issue affecting the pace of global economic growth and a topic at the heart of the Forum this year.  The world is facing a real crisis in youth unemployment that needs to be addressed imminently, with today’s youth making up about 40% of the world’s unemployed; an equivalent of 75 million and a number that keeps on increasing.  In a speech on the reshaping of the employment context, South Korean President Park Geun-Hye talks lengthily about how the creative economy can provide a viable answer to rising unemployment.  Basing her convictions on nothing less than her own country’s experience with the creative sector, President Park Geun-Hye affirms that individual creative ideas can ‘move the world and get nations going’ by becoming engines for the growth of creative organisations and industries; generating new markets and new jobs as a consequence.  The creative economy has thus the power to provide the paradigm shift that is needed to make growth sustainable, especially with the 9 billion of inhabitants that our planet is due to support in the near future. Entrepreneurship is another solution and recurrent topic that painted a substantial part of the Davos 2014 meeting.  President Park Geun-Hye, an ardent supporter of entrepreneurship, advances the needs to put

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in place a supporting system that will remove barriers to entrepreneurship and help those entrepreneurs who try, but who fail, ‘get back up’.  Through entrepreneurship, creative potential can be put into action towards the creation of a ‘creative economy ecosystem’, triggering a positive cycle of growth.  Maria Fanjul, CEO of Spanish-based entradas.com and a fervent entrepreneur herself equally stresses the importance of creating an entrepreneurial spirit amongst the next generation of workers in order to address the world’s rising unemployment issues. Health is another key topic of Davos 2014.  The connection between health and wealth especially dominated that particular discussion.  Although a lot of improvements have been seen in the health sector, particularly through the help of new technologies, investing more in health is pointed out as major priority.  Joseph Jimenez, CEO of Swiss pharmaceutical company Novartis, explains how creating better health means catalysing growth.  In the United States alone, the cost of poor health to businesses amounts to more than 200 billion dollars a year, in terms of absenteeism and other disruptions to business.  In the developing world, around ‘100 million people are pushed out of the middle-class and into poverty every year because they have to pay for their healthcare costs out of pocket’; preventing them thus from being contributors to economic growth in those countries.  Creating health access to those who do not have the resources to afford it is a crucial task to keep into focus.  As the Minister of Finance and Public Credit of Columbia, Mauricio Cárdenas Santa María, reinforces, health does not ‘only make us happier’, it ‘also helps economic growth, it helps societies grow faster’, and should therefore be seen as a key investment.  Investing in the health sector is thus a crucial part of economic growth. The health of our planet and the effects of climate change is another important part of the general health discussion of Davos 2014.  Heat waves, droughts, flooding, hurricanes and other natural disasters are making our world a more difficult place to live in.  The way we consume natural resources and the way we produce goods today are strong obstacles to global prosperity.  Climate change thus remains a major risk to growth and prosperity.  It is not a choice that needs to be made between economic recovery and environmental protection, rather, these two need to be combined into one inclusive initiative for growth.  This is what WEF’s Green Growth Action Alliance (G2A2) encourages yet again this year; action through green growth.  Creating sustainable paradigms, changing the way we produce and use energy and investing in green technologies are amongst the priorities to look at in order to build a greener model for growth. Last but certainly not least is the increasingly important role technology is having in our societies and as a disruptive force to many industries.  Through the explosion of smartphones, bandwidth, apps and the Internet of Things (IoT), the reshaped world is very much likely to take the form of a highly-connected and highly-efficient environment where many possibilities open up, affecting and bringing change to various parts of society such as healthcare, education, commerce, communication and transportation among many others.  The advancements in IoT especially are bound to change our world drastically through the increasing number and improved efficiencies of Internet-connected devices, as well as the trillions of sensors predicted to surround us in the near future.  This is creating a hyper-connected reality where objects, people and cloud services all communicate together in an organic ecosystem.  The pace of change, moreover, is happening at a much faster rate than ever before.  Marc R.  Benioff, the founder, chairman and CEO of Salesforce.com asserts how mobile, social, interconnection, the cloud and sensors will define our new world and provide the wheels for huge potential growth.  Embracing these disruptive changes is the way to move forward; in other words, the choice is to either ‘change or be changed’, as President and CEO of Yahoo!, Marissa Mayer, puts it.

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r el a x until Fr ance comes back to Life OPINION

Alexander Hamilton, more familiarly known as Rai, is a career corporate financier and more recently a writer.  Rai has funded a myriad of new companies including Russian technolog y unknown in the West and a mobile platform with a captive audience of 800 million in China.  His five sequential novels all entitled The Drowning Street Years tell the unsavory truth of how a wave of entrepreneurs wrested control of industry and commerce from the grip of the Establishment and then handed power to the people by way of social media. by Rai Hamilton

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France, the self-proclaimed home of liberté, égalité, fraternité and above all sensualité, is a medium-sized foreign country situated on the continent of Europe.  It is an important member of the world community although recently not nearly as important as it thinks.  It is bordered by Germany, Italy, Switzerland and some smaller nations of no particular consequence with inferior shopping.  It is a very old country with many treasures such as the Louvre and St. Tropez and among its contributions to Western civilisation are champagne, camembert cheese and the guillotine which was normally situated in the middle of town.  Many people don’t realise that this is the origin of the expression chopping centre.  Irrespective, France has always attracted well-heeled visitors who lap up the fraternité and sensualité. She thinks of herself as a modern nation even though air-conditioning is rarely used, taxis are hard to find when you need them and it’s next to impossible to get a decent Mexican meal.  One exasperation for American visitors is that the people persist in speaking French although many are capable of speaking decent English after you raise your voice.  As in many foreign countries, count your change at all times. France has a population of 54 million who mostly smoke and drink a great deal.  They drive like lunatics, are dangerously oversexed and have no concept of letting your car pull away from the pavement in heavy traffic.  They are generally gloomy and temperamental and these are their good points. Don’t get surprised if in hotels the answer you get before you even have asked what you want is: “Ce n’est pas possible”. Men sometimes have girls’ names like Marie and Jackie and everyone kisses whenever there is an opportunity. When a tunnel was opened connecting France to England to make it easier for those in authority to flee, it was never intended as an escape route for the rich.  However, with Socialist President François Hollande’s 75% taxation on France’s highest earners, the writing for that eventuality was on the wall.  It is now approved by France’s highest court and a mass exodus through the tunnels into neighbouring countries is in process.  So it was that no one took much notice of one more person clutching a holdall leaving the Elysée Palace at speed on the back of a moped.  The English are being told there is a recovery in process with the UK as the leading recipient of overseas investment in Europe.  For those Englishmen with homes in France that is not much comfort as annual overseas investment in France has declined by 77% to the lowest level in 27 years and there are no buyers of their villas in the sun.  They will have to continue to watch their investments dwindle and satisfy themselves with the topless sunbathers. While the locals enjoy their fourteen hour lunches, the mere suggestion of pension reductions has air traffic controllers preparing to stop planes landing and the French farmers are limbering up to block the motorways with lorries and tractors.  All the while, red tape is restricting anything vaguely commercial and preventing business from functioning with a flexible workforce. Lady Emma Hamilton, of my family, was credited with gaining the first European port for the English navy in Genoa.  Her advice in any time of difficulty was relax and enjoy the rich history, a picturesque and varied landscape and a temperate climate and remember all Italian music sounds the same.  Curiously, the French have no word for ‘entrepreneur’ and the English residents here in southern France mostly agree that there is no French movie worth watching other than for some of the nude scenes.  Certainly, there is nothing more boring than a French novel except, perhaps, an evening on a boat with a French family. 

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OPINION

History is a great education and Lady Hamilton’s lover was the great Admiral Nelson with his abundance of wisdom and bravery.  His life’s story is still a lesson taught to every English schoolboy in a history syllabus now dominated by colonial brutality and the slave trade as everyone adjusts to a new equilibrium. Nelson’s flag-captain at Trafalgar and unofficially his captain of the fleet was a certain Thomas Hardy who met up with Nelson off Toulon in June 1798.  It was Hardy who located Napoleon Bonaparte in Egypt and it was Hardy and Nelson who together destroyed the French fleet at the Battle of the Nile. Historians say that Napoleone Bonaparte was Italian by birth, as he was born in Ajaccio by Italian parents Carlo Buonaparte and Letizia Ramolino, an old, impoverished, aristocratic family when Corsica was owned by Genoa and leased to France. Hardy was still with Nelson when he was shot and lay dying at the end of the short but bloody successful exchange with the French and Spanish fleets at Trafalgar.  In his last breath Nelson asked ‘take care of

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my dear Lady Hamilton and kiss me, Hardy.’ Thank God he didn’t say it the other way round! Hardy carried one of the banners at Nelson’s funeral procession at Greenwich on 9 January 1806. So some 200 years later, the English are hopelessly stranded in France but at least enjoying more public holidays than any other nation in the world.  Among its national days off are 97 saints days, 7 National Liberation days, 16 Declaration of Republic days, 4 return of Charles de Gaulle in triumph days, 4 Napoleon sent into exile days, 3 Napoleon called back from exile days, the Feast of Brigitte Bardot day (March 1st) and National Guillotine Day (November 12th).  In the event of injury or accident or if you are the victim of a crime where you have lost at least a limb, you have to report to your foreign embassy between the hours of 5:15 p.m.  and 5:30 p.m.  on a Tuesday or a Wednesday and a consular official who is supremely indifferent to your plight will give you a list of qualified dentists or something similarly useless.  How much worse if something serious happened and there was no one to listen? In this quiet period of entrapment, try to avoid the many casinos along the Côte d’Azur.  The croupiers are skilled and after your chips are shovelled down the hole the cameras will not verify any mistake for a minimum four hours during which time you will enjoy one free drink.  If by some miracle you win anything significant, there are smartly dressed Serbians and Albanians watching and the chances of you reaching your home with the cash are slim to none.  A better way to enjoy this opportunity is through the cuisine and do not think for a moment that a snail is just a slug with a shell on its back.  “An army travels on its stomach” Napoleon insisted as his armies suffered from eating rotting meat and fish.  He recognised that military strategies were worth nothing if troops had no decent food so he ordered smoking, salting, drying and, eventually he came up with food preserved in huge cylindrical wrought-iron canisters welded with lead.  Thereafter, if not in battle, the French took the world by storm in haute cuisine and only a few soldiers died from lead poisoning. I have always had wonderful cooks around me and I believe women should care for their men by giving them luxury from within.  For women hoping for a bit of a result, it’s better than giving a man something completely useless.  Take the ‘Cube of Compassion’ as an example of a delicious feast sufficient to take a man’s breath away.  It’s a delicious millet base with a carrot/sweet onion blend fused with a dreamy anethum sauce and accompanied with a delightful salad mix with avocados and aged balsamic vinegar.  Well done Josephine!

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OPINION

So let us relax and wait out the time for everyone to sort out where they are heading.  Invite a few friends to stay after this unusually heavy rain and take pleasure in their company.  Reflect on how our mothers smoked and drank while they carried us and left the front door open for us to play in the streets.  Remember how we rode our bikes with a girlfriend on the cross bar, hitch-hiked to school, drank from the garden hose and shared our soft drinks from one bottle.  We smashed each other’s fingers with conkers, fell out of trees and played in the fields until the streetlights came on.  We built our karts out of scraps from the rubbish tips and rode down the steepest hills with no brakes.  We fought with sticks, got cut, broke bones and shot each other with bows and arrows.  We had no video games, cell-phones, porn on the web, play-stations or chat rooms because we had our friends.  When we didn’t make the team we dealt with the disappointment.  We broke the law and our parents turned us in.  We experimented with girls and they seemed to survive.  We were thrashed and bashed and proud of it. 

So take this time to contemplate freedom, failure, success and responsibility.  Remember to walk through some of the forests and along stunning rivers and waterfalls just inland and right across the south of France.  Take your lady guests to enjoy Paris, the most enchanting city in Europe with architectural gems miraculously unscathed by both Revolution and occupation.  Cross the Seine over to Notre Dame and sit quietly with a cold beer while that special lady of your dreams spends a whole morning trawling through the delights of the leading haute couture houses of Chanel, LVMH and Kering.  They will take your card into new territory but the rewards are normally priceless.  Read a little history and remember that it’s all happened before.

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All the harness and ropes and ladders are banned

‘Aye, aye, Lord Nelson, sir’

Before scaffold is erected you understand.’

‘Hold on, that’s not what I dictated to Flags

‘Then get me the carpenter or it’ll be your neck.’

what’s the meaning of this, my good man?’

‘But he’s busy with wheelchair ramps between decks.’

‘Sorry Admiral, please repeat it minutely’.

‘I’ve never heard anything so absurd,

‘England expects every man to do his duty

Do we have to provide access for nerds?

I did not add regardless of race, gender,

I’ve only one arm and one eye and one hip

sexual orientation, religious persuasion or

And I’m perfectly able to command this ship.

disability. What gobbledegook is all this?’

Whatever next! Give me full sail.’

‘Admiralty policy, Horatio, if I’m not amiss,

‘A problem there too’ said Hardy so pale

Equal opportunities employment is likely to bust yer

Hard hats are needed even if there’s no gale.’

When you’re trying to get a good crew past muster.’

‘So break out the cannon and tell the men

‘Gadzooks, Hardy, hand me my pipe and my pouch

To stand by and engage the enemy then.’

I’ll have a quick smoke while we work this one out.’

‘They’ll not shoot to kill nor spill blood and gore?’

‘Sorry to say, sir, this ship is smoke-free.’

‘What? This is mutiny under the law.

‘In that case, bring me some rum with my tea

And how do I sink the Frenchie and Spanish?

While you splice the mainbrace and steel the crew.’

Are they supposed just to vanish?’

‘The rum is abolished I’m sorry to say,

‘The Frenchie and Spanish are our Community friends

The law on binge drinking is having its day.’

According to European government trends,

‘Good heavens, Hardy, it’s all hurting my head

And we shouldn’t engage in this stretch of water,

I suppose we’d better go full speed ahead.’

We could face a claim for ethnic slaughter.’

‘I think you’ll find there’s a four knot restriction

‘But the Frenchie hates us as much as the devil,

In this stretch of water, if I’m not mistaken.’

Their government cannot even be civil.

‘Damn it man, we must advance with dispatch,

Threaten the men with the nine-tails and lash!’

Report from the crow’s nest and give me a map.’

‘My Lord, there’s a ban on corporal punishment.’

‘That won’t be possible, we have to take care,

‘And what about sodomy?’

Health and Safety no less have closed it up there,

‘I believe that is now legal, sir.’

There are four types of people in this world: Those who make things happen Those who watch things happen Those who stop things happening and Those who wondered what happened. Admiral Nelson before Trafalgar

Photography cour tesy of Place Vendome

‘Order the signal, Hardy’

I s s u e N4 | 1 0


CRUSHED JEWEL SHOOT

Styling: Gem-A-Porter · Photographer: Julia Flit

Purple C h a t i l a , h e a r t s h a p e d i a m o n d n e c k l a c e , t o t a l d i a m o n d w e i g h t : 13 7. 4 4 c t , l a r g e s t h e a r t s h a p e d i a m o n d : 16 . 8 3 c t  ·  P i a g e t L i m e l i g h t C o u t u r e P r é c i e u s e E a r r i n g s , w h i t e g o l d : 14 . 6 g , 3 8 b r i l l i a n t- c u t d i a m o n d s : 4 .7 5 c t , 2 4 p e a r - s h a p e d d i a m o n d s : 5 . 0 3 c t  ·  C h a t i l a , s a p p h i r e & d i a m o n d b r o o c h : 3 2 . 2 0 c t S a p p h i r e B u r m a n o h e a t , 13 .7 1c t d i a m o n d s   ·  C h a t i l a , s a p p h i r e & d i a m o n d b r a c e l e t , t o t a l s a p p h i r e w e i g h t : 4 0 . 4 4 c t , t o t a l d i a m o n d w e i g h t : 3 5 . 8 5 c t  ·   P i a g e t , M a g i c G a r d e n s o f P i a g e t B r a c e l e t , w h i t e g o l d : 6 5 g , 2 11 b r i l l i a n t- c u t d i a m o n d s : 16 . 47c t , P O A

Green Chatila, diamond tiara, 31.50ct brilliant cut diamonds & 3.76ct of diamonds · Chatila, pearl and diamond bracelet, diamonds: 12.96ct, 5 pearls 79.92ct  ·  Van Cleef & Arpels, lotus bet ween-the-finger ring, white gold and diamonds £24,300 ·  Van Cleef & Arpels, Socrate ring, white gold and diamonds, £39,800  ·  Grima, brooch/pendant, brilliant-cut diamonds weighing approx. 8.75ct set in white gold, Hallmark 1973

White Piaget Limelight Couture Précieuse Necklace, white gold: 108.3g, 358 brilliant-cut diamonds: 46.8 8ct, 22 pear-shaped diamonds: 6.16ct, POA  ·  Van Cleef & Arpels, Folie des Près Fair y Clip, white gold, sapphires and diamonds, POA  ·  Fabergé, Vagabonde Drapée Rosée Ring features an oval red spinel centre stone surrounded by round white and pink diamonds, round pink and red sapphires and round spinels set in 18 carat white and rose gold, price: POA  ·  Chatila, sapphire earrings: 12.29ct & 13.09ct Kashmir sapphires  ·  Fabergé, Red Hibiscus Cuf f, this piece is set in 18 carat yellow and white gold and silver and features white, pink and yellow diamonds and rubies, price: POA  ·  Fabergé, Mazurka Bangle features round white diamonds set in 18 carat white gold, price: POA

Brown Fabergé, Vagabonde Jaune Ring features an oval yellow diamond centre stone surrounded by round yellow diamonds set in 18 carat white and yellow gold, price: POA  ·  Grima, necklace, a 130.50 carat cabochon green tourmaline set in yellow gold textured wire and diamonds ·  Piaget Rose Ring, white gold, diamonds, £13,500  ·  Van Cleef & Arpels, Perlée Cuf f, pink gold and pavé diamonds, POA  ·  Chatila, emerald & diamond earrings, diamods: 8.26ct, emeralds: 9.15ct

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BEST OF THE BEST SIHH WATCH STORY

The SIHH is one of the most important fine watchmaking salons in the world.  Year after year, the exhibiting brands reveal some of the most astounding timepieces in the world.  The 2014 edition was no different, as can be seen by the following selection of the best timepieces presented. by Carlos Torres


Every year in January, a special event takes place where a group of sixteen of the best Fine Watchmaking brands reveal their creations for the year ahead.  Held at the “Palexpo” in Geneva, Switzerland, the “Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie” or SIHH, is a private invitation only event, that this year mobilized more than 14.000 professional visitors.  Throughout the five days duration of the event, Fine Watchmaking offered a show of creativity brought into being by extraordinary expertise.  Tourbillons, chronographs, astronomical indications, dive watches, extra-thin watches and sumptuously decorated pieces took technical mastery and craftsmanship to new heights.  But let us go forward for a selection of brands and timepieces that had a greater impact among the visitors of this year’s show.

PI AGET Commemorating its 140th anniversary, Piaget crowned itself absolute Master of Ultra-Thin with the new Altiplano 900P.  An elegant timepiece that is today the world’s thinnest mechanical watch ever to be produced, and a marvel on its own.  The 900P movement is a direct successor of the 9P, launched in 1957, and at the time already just 2mm thick.  In-between, Piaget has produced no less than 23 ultra-thin calibres out of the 35 movements developed and produced in-house, of which 12 have set new records for thinness over the past few years.  Today, the Altiplano 900P introduces an astounding concept where it merges the hand-wound calibre with the case elements, producing a single entity in order to achieve a record-breaking thinness of just 3.65mm.

Roger DUBUIS Roger Dubuis is today the only fine watchmaker whose entire production is based on 31 exclusive calibres, certified by the “Poinçon de Genève”.  A remarkable achievement that this year was reinforced with the accession of the new Hommage collection.  Out of the collection that encapsulates the spirit of the visionary watchmaker who founded the company, the exceptional Hommage Double Flying Tourbillon with Handmade guilloche is one of the most prominent.  The watch is equipped with caliber RD100, a new movement composed of 452 individually hand-finished parts that required a total of 1,200 hours of manufacturing of which 360 alone are devoted to meeting the Poinçon de Genève criteria.

Of f icine PA N E R A I At Panerai, 2014 will be dedicated to the chronograph.  With the first examples dating back to 1943, the year in which the prototype of the Mare Nostrum was presented to deck officers of the Italian Navy, this year Panerai decided to include new chronographs in order to enhance the maker’s range in high quality sports watches.  Particularly the Radiomir 1940 chronograph with a 45mm diameter case, is a direct descendant of a time when the classic cushion case with the wire loop strap attachments of the first Radiomir started to acquire the more massive proportions of the Luminor 1950 case.  Particularly the dial of this new chronograph is from a new and original design, inspired by the history of the brand but also by the function of the watch.  The beautiful movement of the new Radiomir 1940 Chronograph is the OP XXV calibre, developed on an original Minerva 13-22 base.

JA EGE R-L E C OU LT R E Jaeger-LeCoultre brought a veritable mechanical tour de force to this year’s SIHH, from which we selected the superlative Hybris Mechanica 11, also known as the Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon.  This remarkable creation with just 7.9mm in height, capitalizes on eight separate patents, six of which are entirely new.  Equipped with a world premiere in the shape of a flying tourbillon fitted with a flying balance wheel, the system ensures a full view of both balance wheel and spring.  The winding is handled by an

I s s u e N4 | 8


WATCH STORY

oscillating peripheral weight with a platinum segment visible through narrow openings on the dial.  Another remarkable innovation is the minute repeater that is activated by a new retractable single pushbutton.  Usually in this demanding complication, when there are no quarters to be struck, a lengthy silent time lapse occurs between sounding the hours and the minutes.  While there is always such an audible hiatus in the sequence, it is particularly audible when there are no quarters involved.  To solve this problem, an new system reducing this silent time-lapse was developed that detects the absence of quarters to be struck and thus eliminates the marked pause between striking the hours and minutes.  As a result, the appropriate high and low-pitched notes seamlessly follow their appointed pattern without breaking the tempo.

A. L ANGE & SÖHNE For the 2014 edition of the SIHH, A. Lange & SÖhne renewed its claim as the exhibitor with one of the most striking and interesting creations of the “Salon”.  The Richard Lange Perpetual Calendar “Terraluna” is a superlative watch which regulator style dial hides a hand built mechanical movement with no less than 787 components.  Calibre L096.1 is even capable of adding to the traditional time indication a perpetual calendar with an outsized date, day of the week, month, the four-year cycle and a power reserve with the extraordinary duration of 336 hours.  But it is by turning the “Terraluna” on its back that the viewer will be most impressed.  The transparent back will reveal a superbly finished hand wound mechanical movement, partially concealed by an over dimensioned astronomical indication disc that include the earth at its center and the moon orbiting around it over a star filled night sky.  One impressive characteristic of this astronomical indication is the precision permitted by its complex wheelwork.  One will only need to correct the lunar indication by one day after exactly 1058 year.

Richard MILLE At Richard Mille, the avant-garde watchmaker was presenting an evolution of its RM 036 mechanical G-force sensor watch, this time dedicated to the most successful driver in WRC history.  The new RM 36-01 G-Sensor Tourbillon Sébastien Loeb has an indicator at 2 o’clock that displays the status of the 70 hours power reserve, a function selector at 4 o’clock and an imposing G-force sensor reset in the middle of the round sapphire glass front.  The key to understanding this new creation can be gleaned from the rotating brown

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ceramic bezel: the G-force sensor can now be rotated manually to align in different directions, enabling drivers to view the lateral deceleration as well as longitudinal forces found respectively in corners, acceleration and braking on straights up to 6 Gs.

MONTBLANC Although Montblanc debuted a new Meisterstuck Heritage Collection with extremely appealing models and prices, the TimeWalker Chronograph 100 was unquestionably the main piece on display.  The watch has a patented chronograph function that enables it to perform a feat that’s seldom achieved by mechanical timepieces: the measuring of elapsed intervals of time to the nearest 100th of a second.  To achieve this level of performance, it needs to work at a frequency of 360,000 semi-oscillations per hour.  This necessity prompted the manufacture to devise a solution that comprises two balances, a large one oscillating at a frequency of 2.5Hz, ensuring the precise rate of the going train, and a small one set to the extremely high frequency of 50Hz intended to regulate the chronograph function.  Another detail that sets this timepiece apart from conventional chronographs is its double zero-return mechanisms: one for the 100ths of a second, and the other for the elapsed minutes and seconds.

CARTIER With the Rotonde Earth and Moon watch, Cartier inaugurated an innovative blend of complications that bring together a Tourbillon, an original on demand Moon Phase and a second time zone.  The watch actually owes its name to the stylized portrayal of the globe and the moon represented by the tourbillon.  The second time zone is indicated by a 24-hour disc that was entirely redeveloped for caliber 9440 MC due to the sophistication of its disc display.  But it is the moon phase that most strikes the observer.  Because it appears in its original form and exists only when its user wishes it to, the moon phase on this Rotonde de Cartier watch reveals a technical creativity that is doubly innovative.  By pressing the push-button at four o’clock on the side of the case, a panel descends and partially obscures the Tourbillon carriage.  The crescent thus formed reproduces exactly the moon’s shape in the sky.

BAUME & MERCIER With the Clifton 1892 Flying Tourbillon, Baume & Mercier wished to demonstrate his excellence in watchmaking and remind the world that as the seventh oldest watch manufacturer still in operation, it has real expertise in the art of making accurate and complicated watches.  Proof of this is its history of 10 grand prix victories, seven gold medals and several prizes obtained in chronometry competitions.  In memory of this glorious past, Baume & Mercier created a stunning flying tourbillon watch in a limited edition of just 30 copies.  Driven by the exclusive hand wound mechanical caliber P591, the movement is controlled by a flying tourbillon and has high quality decorations like “Côtes de Genève” on the bridges, beading on the main plate and traditional finishes of the various components.

Greubel FOR SEY Although still in its prototype state, and subjected to further changes, the new “QP à Équation” from Greubel Forsey is a revolutionary interpretation of the perpetual calendar.  With this watch, the Swiss maker claims to have reinvented this complication even integrating an Equation of Time, a work for which the brand has filed no less than 3 patents.  According to Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey, the priority was to simplify the complete displays and make it easier to set the perpetual calendar by using the bi-directional winding crown.  Despite the complete indications and functions, this veritable mechanical computer is as easy to set as a simple date feature.  On the back of the “QP à Équation” one will find the Equation of Time indication,

I s s u e N4 | 1 0


WATCH STORY

the seasons and the current year in four figures.  The indications on the back are made up of two superimposed transparent discs.  The first disc has a scale in minutes indicating the difference between solar and mean time, and the second disc, which goes around once a year is divided into four sections in red and blue to show whether the Equation of Time is positive or negative.  This indication is unprecedented and provides a clearer appreciation of the Earth’s elliptical orbit around the sun as well as the equinoxes and solstices.

VA N C L E E F & A R PE L S Besides the usual stunning jewelled watches that are a specialty at Van Cleef & Arpels, the Parisian jeweller presented the surprising “Pierre Arpels Heure d’ici & Heure d’ailleures”.  An understated and poetic interpretation of travel, reflecting the brands Poetry of Time philosophy, the new watch inaugurates a dual time complication developed in partnership with the “Atelier Genevois d’Horlogerie”.  The exclusive self-winding movement is distinguished by its double jumping hour and minute retrograde display.  Home time is displayed in the aperture at the top of the dial, and the second time zone appears in the lower aperture, both jumping exactly at the same time.

Parmigiani FLEUR IER Urban style with a metropolitan spirit was the motto at Parmigiani Fleurier.  The new “Metro” collection has in the new Tonda Métrographe one of its finest representatives.  With a left-hand profile as its conventional side, the chronograph has two iconic, teardrop-shaped lugs that extend until the end of the steel case, optimizing its ergonomics.  By contrast, its right-hand profile, reveals that the two teardrops form a streamlined, fluid wave, which almost entirely envelops the case, hugging the crown tightly and integrating the chronograph push buttons.  This subtle asymmetrical 40mm watch is equipped with the automatic winding caliber PF315 movement capable of a 42-hour power reserve.

Audemars PIGUET At Audemars Piguet, the focus was set once more on the sporty Royal Oak collection.  Revealing the latest Royal Oak Concept watch, part of a collection that originally debuted in 2002, the brand from le Brassus presented a watch with a 44mm sculpted titanium case middle, integrated rubber strap and a white ceramic bezel intended to frame the tourbillon and the GMT time-zone display of caliber 2930.  Characterized as a watch for avant-garde collectors and connoisseurs that brooks no compromise in either technical or esthetical terms, the new Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon is a daring cocktail of ceramics and metals destined to further push Audemars Piguet’s pursuit in materials science.

IWC This year, IWC turned its full attention to the sporty Aquatimer.  The new collection now has a clever external/internal rotating bezel complete with an IWC SafeDive system that combines the advantages of an internal rotating bezel, with the ease of use of an external rotating bezel that can be moved simply by a diver wearing gloves.  Among the entire renewed collection, the Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital DateMonth stands out as a genuinely big watch.  Limited to just 50 pieces, the flagship of the new collection has an impressive case diameter of 49 millimeters that makes it the second-largest wristwatch in IWC’s history.  Ticking away inside, the 89801 caliber with perpetual calendar and large digital display for the date and month is protected by a case made of materials such as rubber-coated titanium and 18-carat red gold.

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atelier-zuppinger.ch

Plate Tableware or part of a watch movement? Discover the world of Fine Watchmaking at www.hautehorlogerie.org

Plate | The plate which bears the various movement parts and in particular the bridges. The dial is usually affixed to the bottom side of the plate. The plate is pierced with holes for the screws and recesses for the jewels in which the pivots of the movement wheels will run.

The FoundaTion’s ParTners | A. LAnge & Söhne | audemars PigueT | BAume & mercier | BoveT 1822 | cArtier | Chanel | chopArD | ChrisToPhe ClareT corum | de BeThune | girArD-perregAux | greuBel Forsey | hArry WinSton | hermès | iWc | Jaeger-leCoulTre | LouiS Vuitton | monTBlanC | pAnerAi Parmigiani Fleurier | piAget | ralPh lauren WaTCh & JeWelry | richArD miLLe | roger duBuis | tAg heuer | vaCheron ConsTanTin | VAn cLeeF & ArpeLS


Baselworld WATCH STORY

It is known for being the greatest show on earth, as far as watches and jewellery is concerned.  Last year Baselworld entered a new era, and this year new records were broken once again. by Carlos Torres

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2013 was a year of records for Baselworld, the world’s most important event for the watch and jewellery industry, and a show that every year attracts thousands to the picturesque Swiss city of Basel.  Almost a year ago now, the exhibition was able to set a record of 122.000 visitors with no fewer than 3.610 accredited journalists visiting the 1.460 exhibitors coming from 40 different countries.  The 41st edition of the show received more than 1.000 new stands in honor of the inauguration of the newly opened hall complex by world-class architects Herzog & de Meuron, leading Baselworld into a new and exciting era.  The new hall, which is 220 meters long, 90 meters wide and 32 meters high, now provides an additional 38,000 square meters of exhibition space on the ground floor and the two upper stories’ that span the Exhibition Square.  Exhibition Centre Basel is now able to offer 141,000 square meters of show ground, with no less than 74,000 square meters of this being provided by Hall 1 that runs along Riehenring Street. Impressive numbers which have been surpassed by this year’s edition, held from March 27th until April the 3rd.  Sylvie Ritter, Managing Director of Baselworld stated, “With Baselworld 2013 we have set new standards.  This has further reinforced the uniqueness of this event.  There is nothing comparable in the luxury goods industry, anywhere in the world.  We shall be doing everything within our power to further expand our leading position in 2014 also.” A number of important brands, like Rolex, Bulgari, Hublot and Zenith, already inaugurated new multistory stands last year, and other like Patek Philippe, which is marking its 175th anniversary, presented new and spectacular booths which welcomed the crowds of visitors who walked the hallways of the show. Founded in 1860, Chopard was among the fine watchmaking and jewellery brands that completely renovated their stand almost doubling the size of its beautiful pavilion.  It now mimics the new boutique concept Chopard has developed with French architect living in New York, Thierry W. Despont, perfectly integrating the luxurious ambiance of Hall 1. Last year saw the Swiss brand commemorate the 20th anniversary of its iconic Happy Sport watch collection, which daringly produced the very first steel watch with diamonds in the world.  It was a year when Chopard also introduced throughout its Boutiques the possibility to personalize their Happy Sport watches with the help of a special dedicated iPad application.  Also unveiled at the 2013 Baselworld show by Chopard, where a set of new Mille Miglia models, the Superfast, the L.U.C Engine One H and

Watch: HUblot Big Bang Minute Repeater Tourbillon Gold

Perpetual T, the Imperiale Joaillerie Améthyste, and many more.  With a collection that pleases all nationalities and all age groups, both in fine watchmaking as in fine jewellery, Chopard lit up again Hall 1 for the 2014 edition of Baselworld.  The Chopard Grand Prix de Monaco Historique Chronograph was just an appetizer for the collections that Karl Friedrich and Caroline Scheufele unveiled during the eight glittering days of the show. The momentum is slowly building up, and other brands are also unveiling their traditional pre-Basel novelties.  Zenith will be presented its new El Primero 410, Hublot decided to innovate with the Spirit of Big Bang, Ulysse Nardin launched the Dual Time with a new manufacture movement and the original and independent brand HYT revealed its new hydro mechanical wonder, the H2 Blue.  Without a doubt, March, Baselworld was again the place to be if you are passionate for high watchmaking and jewellery.

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BAO BAO WAN MY FAVOURITES

Bao Bao Wan is the epitome of a 21st century fairy tale: a high-society socialite, artist and successful businesswoman.  She has become a role model for a new generation of aspiring Asian women wanting to make their mark around the world, a bright rising Chinese star in the sky of international design and creativity. by Harry Dean

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Image by Chenman / Bao Bao Wan


MY FAVOURITES

Little TR E ATS After the success of “And the Little Ones”, I recently launched my new favourite collection of jewelry: it is called Les Bonbons which are all miniature desserts.  For me personally, I like to have jewelry which makes you laugh.  Only if jewelry has either a sense of humor or a beautiful story then it can be alive.  In this collection, everything is made of handcarved gemstones and semi-precious stones; amethyst, rose quartz, pearl, ruby and diamond.  Take the strawberry for example on the top of the cupcake, this is made of ruby and diamond.  I always like to create melting ice so for that I used diamond and gold – the melting effect makes it look very alive.  The lemon on the drink is made from yellow sapphire, the straw out of diamond and gold. It is very rare because it is all hand-made.  When started selling “And the Little Ones”, people wanted to buy more than I could produce and deliver, sadly my work was copied ruthlessly and made available online for sale.  These are impossible to be copied since they are so hand-made.

An EDUC ATION For all the jewelry lovers out there, they will know that the JAR book of Jewelry is the bible of all Jewelry books.  I actually picked this up in New York in 2005 and it was then shipped to Hong Kong so getting the book was a journey in itself.  As a student back then of jewelry design, reading this book really opened up my world to jewelry.  JAR is one of my favourite brands.  Actually right now it is on exhibit in New York at the Metropolitan Museum of Modern Art – I am planning on going to New York to see it.  Every single JAR piece is amazing and the culture of the brand so unique.  Each piece from JAR is made only for its owner.  This book has been with me throughout my days as a jewelry designer.  If I were to try and look for it, would be impossible to find.

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A RT & FA N TA S Y This is one of my favourite photographs from the fabulous artist Chen Man.  Chen Man is the premiere fashion photographer in China.  Her use of staging and post production finishing, all of which she does herself, makes her work unique.  She and I are of similar ages and when we were growing up we both went to photography school.  Of course we have taken different paths now in life and I must confess I do envy her a little.  I have been fortunate enough to be photographed by her since 2003.  Photography is still a passion of mine and over the years I have been regularly collecting photographs, including hers.  Of all of my photographs, I love hers the most.  This photo was taken in 2007, it is from the Chinese five elements series, this is the “gold” element.  She has perfectly combined Chinese traditional culture with “modern fashion” and find a balance between them.  All of Chen Man’s images are wonderfully artistic and fantastical, perhaps even a little over the top, both fascinating and delighting me and that’s why this is one of my favourite things.

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A COLLECTOR Whenever I want to buy jewelry the most important thing to me is to find something tasteful.  I don’t really buy jewelry often but if I do I care a lot about the history behind the brand.  This piece is from my favourite designer the American David Webb.  I had to struggle with rival bidders at an auction to get it.  I always pay attention to his pieces and I adore what he made, particularly this one.  Thankfully after much back-andforths, I won.  I absolutely love David Webb’s animal and nature inspired designs.  It is no wonder his clients included Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Lee Radziwell, the Duchess of Windsor, Gloria Vanderbilt, Elizabeth Taylor and many other glamorous women.  Later I remember that famous Vogue cover in the 70s of Diane von Furstenburg wearing a big, bold Webb necklace – it epitomized the glamour of that period.  This bangle is also from the 1970s.  It depicts two giraffes made of enamel, jade, gold, and diamond.  It was tragic he died young but the brand still remains one of the last independent luxury brands of its kind.


A Timeless ACCESSORY These are the Dior bags called Lady Dior, one in white, one with “bullets”, and one which I was honored to receive from House of Dior on the occasion of my birthday.  I have used this style of bag ever since graduation.  It is so elegant and so classic, it doesn’t have to change.  The first white bag I wore at my high school graduation to match the white dress I was wearing.  Perhaps then it was just a bag to me but as I grew up I continued to carry it.  Then from 2003 I started to work closely with Dior as a Dior ambassador in China.  As I grew up, my cooperation with Dior became closer.  It has been more than ten years together.  The bag has faithfully been my side throughout these years and holds a special place in my heart.  It represents my life from high school to now and is no longer just a bag.  Maybe the bags change a little bit but it is still fundamentally the same.  A timeless delight.

GEMS & STORIES I simply adore this one, it is my favourite gemstone and it has a beautiful story behind it.  I was at the Jewelry trade show in Hong Kong one time and I saw the most brilliant Sapphire.  What made it all the more interesting was that it is in an emerald shape (which is quite rare), 30 crts without heat, and a step-cut in this colour and size and from Sri Lanka.  I had never seen a piece like that before.  We bargained a bit in Hong Kong but before coming to an agreement the dealer had already gone back to Sri Lanka.  I tracked down his contact details and when I finally got through to him he wouldn’t come back to Hong Kong.  Knowing that it is very rare and anyway I had fallen in love with it, I travelled to Colombo to negotiate with them.  It took us a long time to come to an agreement but luckily I was successful and it is now one of my most treasured pieces of jewelry.  I still haven’t seen anything like it since.

My C A R The luxury German car manufacturer Mercedes-Benz approached me last year to design a Smart Car and a pendant to go with it.  To say the least, I was shocked since this was the first time I had ever been asked to design a car.  I later found out that Mercedes had noticed that my “And the Little Ones” collection was popular among celebrities.  Mercedes also said they found the designs attractive to them and they had an amazing idea which I could not say no to.  I was asked to design the Smart Car and put my name on it.  Well I did and they made 666 cars.  I was very nervous doing it as and also before they went on sale but no more than 8 hours after they did they were all sold out! I was over the moon with joy.  Now, whenever I am walking along the street and I see one I scream out in excitement and joy.  The pendant which accompanied the car was a snake made of silver and diamond – since the whole project was for the Year of the Snake –and each buyer of the car got one.  It made me realize that I could apply my design skills in other ways and I look forward to more work of this kind.

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PR ADA the making of an icon ICONIC

Prada’s Double Bag is a true modern day icon in the making, combining artisanal heritage with contemporary practicality.


Prada’s Double Bag references the company’s past and present, both in material and design. Launched in 1913 by brothers Mario and Martino, the Fratelli Prada in Milan specialised in leather goods of rich variety and the highest quality.  Travel accessories from England, such as steamer trunks for grand voyages, were sold alongside luxury leather goods.  Taking over the company from her mother in 1978, Miuccia Prada has created an unparalleled amount of epochal designs, from waterproof yet elegant backpacks to the Bowling Bag - to name but a few.  The family business is continuously updated, while simultaneously guarding and nurturing specialist production processes. The Prada Double Bag echoes the company’s decades strong expertise in handling this material, combining leather outside, with sumptuous nappa inside.  These two components are either in tone on tone, or in contrasting hues.  By joining these two materials seamlessly, the bag is feather light and ideal for everyday use.  Practicality is further enhanced by Prada’s minute attention to detail: the internal divider has a handy flap pocket, including hidden magnetic closure.  For last minute evening engagements, the snap – closing compartment can be removed, and used like a clutch.  Each side features covered buttons. Launched in a variety of colours, the Prada Double Bag is the perfect partner to Prada’s joyously graphic SS14 collection. Beaded and vividly painted slip dresses are worn underneath dyed patchwork fur coats.  Standout prints are in the shape of large scale faces, reminiscent of both street art – the Milan catwalk show placed the garments amidst recreated murals - and the ferocity of all female gangs.  Steven Meisel’s campaign film further communicates the unifying, all female vision of the collection.  The Prada Double Bag, both practical yet visually striking, is the perfect accessory for this contemporary vision of feminism. In its woody green, succulent red and deep, dark blue versions it is also the perfect complement to Prada’s myriad projects outside the realm of high fashion.  A recent highlight is the short film Prada Classic No 3 Castello Calvacanti.  It places the company’s heritage within the whimsical world of Wes Anderson.  The director’s work is just one of Prada’s numerous successful forays into other creative fields.  These also include the Fondazione Prada, which presents two annual exhibitions, alongside cultural events. Expertly crafted, and rich in cultural connotations, the Prada Double Bag is a true modern day classic.

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FASHION STORIES

London’s Victoria and Albert Museum celebrates the dazzle of Italian fashion throughout the second half of the twentieth century, establishing its multi faceted heritage and contemporary interpretation. 5th April to 27th July 2014 by Felix Bischof

Title: Evening dress of embroidered net and matelasse coat (detail) · Ar tist: Mila Schön · Date: 1966 · Credit line: Cour tesy Maison Mila Schön, Photo © Victoria and Alber t Museum, London · Special terms: None

the gl amour of italian fashion 1945 - 2014


For 2014, the V&A dedicates its Spring exhibition to gossamer creations ‘Made in Italy’.  The exhibition, which features original research conducted in a variety of specialist archives, considers the legacy of artisanal production techniques and the country’s iconic use of rare materials in industry defining womensand menswear.  Fashion houses represented read like a ‘who’s who’ of the elegant wardrobe.  Turning the Museum’s focus towards one of Europe’s principal fashion countries, benefiting from both a strong manufacturing and design presence, the exhibition features current and past Greats.  Giorgio Armani’s elegant suits, that redefined power dressing, share the spotlight with Romeo Gigli’s Pre-Raphaelite fantasies, while Missoni’s Zig Zag knits mingle with a red carpet Versace gown.  Rarely seen couture designs by Simonetta remind of Audrey Hepburn in ‘A Roman Holiday’, and spectacular gowns by Roberto Capucci defy both gravity and convention. The exhibition is curated by Sonnet Stanfill, the Museum’s curator of 20th Century and Contemporary Fashion.  Having worked for the V&A since 1999, Stanfill has been responsible for several highly successful displays, turning her eye towards fashion capitals around the world. Past exhibitions include the London centric Ossie Clark (2003) and New York Fashion Now (2007).

Model wearing a dress by Rober to Capucci, Rome, 1957, Cour tesy Münchner Stadtmuseum, Sammlung Fotografie, Archiv Relang

T HE E X HIBI T ION WORK ED W I T H SE V ER A L I TA L I A N A RCHI V E S, W H AT WERE THE MOST MEMORABLE FINDS? The Giorgini Archive held in the Archivio di Stato was particularly memorable. Giovanni Battista Giorgini was a Florentine buying agent who launched Italy’s first internationally significant fashion events – the Sala Bianca catwalk shows in Florence.  Being able to identify, through photographs and correspondence, important individual buyers from American department stores at these first shows helped draw out very concrete links between American and Italian fashion, and the role the American market played in the growth of the industry. Foto Locchi was another wonderful archive.  Their photographs show a vast cache of Florentine life and chronicle the story of Italian fashion in the city.  Their photographers were present at the earliest fashion shows and were also hired by key designers like Salvatore Ferragamo to photograph clients, and so the images captured the growth of Italian fashion playing out in the city.

I TA L I A N FA SHION, L IK E PA RISI A N H AU T E COU T URE, IS ROOT ED BOTH IN VISUAL AND PRODUCTION TERMS WITHIN THEIR COUNTRY OF ORIGIN.  HOW IS T HIS T R A NSL AT ED IN T HE E X HIBI T ION DISPL AY? In the exhibition there will be a section on fashion and image.  This considers the importance of the photographic image, whether it is advertising or fashion photography, in creating an identity for Italian Fashion. There will also be sections focussing on different making techniques, including knitwear, textiles, leather and fur.  These individual focuses will clarify how important the process of artisanal making has been within Italian fashion.  A digital map will also be on display to highlight the cluster system of production which Italy is famous for.

INFORM AT ION The Glamour of Italian Fashion 1945-2014, sponsored by Bulgari, runs from 5th April - 27th July 2014 at the V&A. For more information and tickets, visit www.vam.ac.uk/italianfashion

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A Weapon of Love ESSAY

by Andrei Navrozov

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If, in the course of what may be regarded as a perennial war of conquest, we imagine the woman’s arsenal comprised of the cloak of scent and the dagger of heel, the high explosive of couture and the camouflage of eye shadow, the corsetière’s body armour and the milliner’s signals intelligence, then surely her handbag is the infantryman’s rifle.  With the negligible exception of the tube of retractable lipstick within, it is the only weapon of femininity to rely on an actual mechanism, and woe betide the soldier who goes into combat with a magazine that is anything short of perfect. I remember, in my youth, coming across an exposé of a “Kremlin sex spy school” in a Sunday tabloid.  The tale of bedroom espionage told of nefarious Russian spymasters unleashing upon an unsuspecting West a brigade of breathtaking blondes “who used sex the way an infantryman uses his rifle.” It may be that the story made such an impression on me because of the louche pen-and-ink drawings by Charles Copeland that accompanied it, complete with lethal white bikinis and hypnotic tartan miniskirts.  In any case, it gave me a new understanding of the Cold War, which subsequent events of my life went on to refine and expand. At university, in America in the late 1970’s, I was much taken with a blonde from Connecticut whose distinctive feature, as I only vaguely realised at the time, was a tan leather clutch.  Vintage, as we would say now, simple and elegant, its polished cowhide made darker, smoother and glossier by some two decades of rubbing against tweed sleeves and cashmere waists of women like herself – rich, carefree, ready to laugh at a writer’s joke – to me, her handbag was the essence of that fairytale American femininity which Ralph Lauren was just then beginning to harvest and bottle.  If “beauty is but a promise of happiness,” as Stendhal said, then the honey patina of that handbag, I thought, was very nearly a guarantee. Remarkably, as I see things now, the fairytale girl’s middle name was Wesson.  She hailed from the Connecticut family that produced the Smith & Wesson revolver and the repeating rifle whose metal cartridge changed the course of the American Civil War. The connection between love and war is intractable, nebulous, inchoate, but that it is there is beyond reasonable doubt.  Just recently, in the wake of the Throttlegate scandal that shook tout London, a Sunday Times journalist reported that Nigella Lawson “looked spectacular” enough “to dislodge Judy Garland as gay men’s No. 1 icon,” defining the look as “a masterclass in make-up as armour and weapon of mass destruction.” If only she’d had the right handbag, I thought wistfully, looking at the newspaper photograph. The connection has been there, moreover, since times immemorial.  “Who is she that looketh forth as the morning,” wails Solomon in his song, “fair as the moon, clear as the sun, and terrible as an army with banners?” To the banners, in the course of sequent centuries, civilisation added artillery and armour, machine guns and grenade launchers – and Solomon, though a great king, had never seen a Louboutin heel (“How beautiful are thy feet with shoes, O prince’s daughter!”) or a Cadolle corset (“Thy stature is like a palm tree, and thy breasts like clusters of grapes”), nor could he even imagine the kind of handbag that, of a winter afternoon, the girl from Connecticut would bury in the armchair by the fire under her little cashmere sweater and a pencil skirt of herringbone tweed. O Solomon, Solomon! Would it have given you a heart attack to see your fair beloved do a Bettie Page and slither into some fully fashioned nylon stockings?  (Come to think of it, didn’t you brag that her thighs were “like jewels, the work of the hands of a cunning workman”? You really had no idea how cunning those workmen could be, Your Majesty!)  And what in Heaven’s name would you have thought of a chainmail bra, of patent thigh boots, of a pink catsuit in moulded latex photographed by an Ellen von Unwerth?

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ESSAY

Fetishism?  Perhaps, though another way of putting it would be to say that certain objects, a handbag conspicuous among them in the cityscape of modern life, increase the specific gravitas of feminine utterance – which a man consciously receives and unconsciously defines as a woman’s beauty.  It was Charles Baudelaire, a poet discovered by the Russians, championed by the Americans, and idolized by the French, who was historically the first thinker to challenge the view of beauty as a beautiful woman’s innate and inalienable hereditament.  Rather, argued Baudelaire, beauty is an amalgam of fetishist proclivities and attitudes, which the woman, using all the accoutrements in civilization’s boudoir, spares no pains to plant and cultivate in the male mind. Baudelaire described the state of war and legitimized the female combatant: “Woman is within her rights, indeed she discharges a duty, when she dedicates herself to appearing magical and supernatural,” he wrote in The Painter of Modern Life, apostrophising “the muslins, the gauzes, the vast iridescent clouds of stuff in which she envelops herself ” among the “attributes of her divinity.” A woman must adorn herself to be adored, declared the poet, and “everything that adorns her, everything that serves to create her beauty, is part of her; so that those artists who have made a particular study of this enigmatic being have dwelled no less on the various details of the mundus muliebris than on her alone.” Among those artists, a century later, would be Alfred Hitchcock.  Some five minutes into Vertigo, and we realise that the great director is an incisive psychologist, demonstrating with clinical precision how carefully manipulated fetishes – Baudelaire’s “mundus muliebris,” pieced together for Hitchcock by Paramount’s costume designer of genius, Edith Head – may be used to control the male subject, implanting thoughts, directives, and even a whole world view, in his unconscious mind.  Kim Novak’s little grey suit, her black pumps, alpaca coat and commodious handbag – each plays a part in the plot of the film and contributes to James Stewart’s undoing no less crucially than his living and breathing blonde nemesis. The tragedy of the James Stewart hero – and for “hero,” read “everyman” – is that all the while the poor sap is unaware of his own and of his gender’s proclivities.  Fetishism, for him, is what happens to other people, some of whom, perhaps, belong in mental institutions.  This point is elegantly made by Barbara Bel Geddes when she tells him that a boy his age ought to know what the “doohickey” on her drawing board is.  The doohickey in front of Stewart is, of course, a brassiere.  “Works on the principle of the cantilevered bridge,” his former fiancée adds tartly. “Don’t you know there’s a war on?”  When I had quit America to settle in London, that quintessentially British question still reverberated, incongruously, through the air that was now filled with Gorbachev and Versace.  “They are right, these crazy Brits,” I reflected.  “To fight a war, much less to win it, one needs to know that it’s on.”  Where, then, did that put the combatants in the war of the sexes? Where did that leave the hapless Jimmy Stewart?  And what about poor old me, transfixed by that girl’s handbag like a cobra at the sound of a pungi in a Moroccan souk? All I can say is that from my own eyes, at least, the scales have fallen, and whenever I see a vintage masterpiece, the work of a nameless armourer, moving through a rainy Knightsbridge as though executing a military manoeuvre – only to hear its deadly click minutes later, somewhere behind me in the apocalyptic confusion of Harrod’s – I smile uneasily and tell myself to be careful.  I am a big boy now.  Fetishism, for me, is no longer something that happens to other people.

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W ishList her

L E F T T O R I G H T, T O P T O B O T T O M Christian Louboutin ‘So Kate’ Liege Embosse Beige Shoes  ·  Loewe Motera Satchel  ·  Franc Vila Tribute to the Ladies Watch Royal Blue  ·  Hermès Spring Summer 2014 Look 08  ·  La Perla Pushkar Bathing Suit  · Chanel Manchette "Pétales de Camélia" in white gold 18 carats, diamonds, saphirre roses and opals  ·  Ethan K Crocodile Vanit y Case  ·  Hublot Big Bang Gold Diamonds  ·  Globetrotter 33” E xtra Deep Suitcase With Wheels

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W ishList him

L E F T T O R I G H T, T O P T O B O T T O M Dior Homme Prussian Blue Taurillon Organizer with Bordeaux Rubber · Franc Vila Interpido F V No.8 · Ethan K Crocodile Trolley Suitcase · New & Lingwood by Stefano Bremer 3 Tie Derby in Crocodile · Roger Dubuis Hommage Double Flying Tourbillon · Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2014 Look 06 · Prada Spring/Summer 2014 Men’s Sweater · Avrone Sunglasses & Eyewear · Burberr y Crêpe Sole Suede Shoes

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T R ICHOLOGY urban r etr eat BEAUTY

by Slim Scarry


Trichology is something I had never come across before but when I heard that it is like “Botox for Hair” I was intrigued.  By definition, Trichology, is the scientific study of the health of hair and scalp.  Hair follicles can reveal invaluable information including levels of stress and nutritional insufficiencies.  With the analysis of a single strand of hair under the microscope one is able to get a detailed and custom analysis of the overall health of one’s hair and thus also determine the general condition of one’s health and body. I have had the worst time with my hair over the past 10 years I would say.  I am never happy with my hair colour, the condition is always damaged and recently my colourist told me I need to just cut it all off and start anew.  And so I did.  I also decided to visit the charming Ricardo Vila Nova at the 2122 Clinic at Harrods’ spa Urban Retreat.  I wanted to get an in depth opinion from an expert to see what was really going on with my hair. After a hair DNA strand test he attested that my hair cellular level is actually very good and the vitamin levels are perfectly balanced.  Due to colour, however, my hair is suffering from dehydration, dryness and breakage. I was surprised, relieved, but I have to admit a bit disappointed as well, as I thought I had something more than just colour damage. So he just spoiled me, and my hair.  I was checked into LASER CORTEX STIMULATION.  This is the most luxurious and comforting treatment I have ever done.  It treats the inner core of the hair strands, leaving the hair feeling significantly repaired and new.  The scalp, after deep massage, feels like a fluffy cloud. Gaby, his beautiful and long maned assistant, painted my hair with a mix of various oils and goodness. They prepared on the spot a recipe specific for my hair type combining a high concentration of rich ingredients like Vitamin D, Castor Oil, Cortex and Protein. The best part is what comes next: a massage of the scalp that transports you into a magical trance.  And the massage lasts a good 15 minutes.  I was then directed to the washbasin and again soothed with a further massage in a strong wash.  A similar treatment was repeated right after and I was then placed under a laser light lamp, the high tech LASER HAIR STIMULATION LIGHT.  This is used to prompt cell regeneration, boost blood flow and to stimulate greater and faster hair growth. The difference is significant after the first treatment but Ricardo recommends a series of 6 sessions to rebuild the hair back to naturally glossy, stronger, and suppler silky locks. I am going again next week for my 3rd session and simply can’t wait!

INFORM AT ION To book a treatment at Urban Retreat at Harrods please call 020 7893 8333. Urban Retreat, First Floor, Harrods, Knightsbridge, London, SW1X 7XL.

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HERO PRODUCTS BEAUTY

After months of harsh climates, rainy weather and fun on the slopes, skin is ready for some SOS treatments. The following is a round up of the most effective products, in time for rapidly approaching Summer!

C AV I A R R E PA I R

F i l l & F i x Tr e a t m e n t M a s q u e This deeply penetrating treatment combines the elusive powers of caviar, with highly advanced microbeads.  Once in contact with warm water, the microbeads release highly concentrated Strand-Buidling Proteins to fill in any gaps and correct the hair structure. Smooth, silky and throughly healthy tresses are revealed.

BY R EDO

Flowerhead

For his new fragrance, modern day perfume icon Ben Gorham bottles the joyful and colourful imagery of an Indian wedding ceremony.  ‘Flowerhead’ comprises top notes of angelica seeds, Sicilian lemon and Lingonberry.  The perfume’s heart is joyful bouquet of wild jasmine, tuberose and rose petals, while the base of fresh amber and suede.

OMOROV ICZ A

Deep Cleansing Mask

A gently yet thorough cleansing balm, bringing to mind the period baths of Budapest.  Suitable for most skin types, the black clay leaves skin clean, plump and absolutely radiant.

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SKINCEUTICALS

ERNO LASZLO

C E Ferulic

C E Ferulic offers protection against the elements.  The antioxidant treat-

Tra n s p h u s e R a p i d Renewal Cell Protocol

ment provides advanced environmental protection against UVA, UVB

Pushing the boundaries of research, this new product by hungarian

and infrared Radition A.  Once applied, it remains active for 72 hours.

heritage brand Erno Laszlo is an intensive 29 day treatment designed to slow down the skin’s ageing process. Skin is targeted in four steps,

Retexturing Activator The Retexturing Activator exfoliates deeply, while simultaneously hydrating the skin.  The potent combination triggers skin’s renewal process and reinforces the sin’s barrier for a glowing, healthy complexion.

SISLEY

L A PR AIR IE

MURAD

S i sl e y B l a c k R o s e C ream Ma sk

S w i ss Ic e C r ys t a l C re a m

Renewing Cleansing Oil

La Prairie’s Cellular Swiss Ice Crystal Colelc-

From the specialist laboratories of Dr Murad

This luxury face treatment has garnered an inter-

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tions. Swiss Snow Algae, Soldanella Alpina

Winter skin, while natural oils such as Grape Seed

in a velvety, deliciously smooth mask.  It’s delicate

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scent is reminiscent of dewy rose gardens, and the

this year’s defining new product ranges, offer-

Sweet Almond Oil hydrates, rounding up this

effects on tired looking skin are miraculous.

ing first class protection.

luxurious recipe.

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MUSEO JUMEX ART FOCUS

“Art was something I had never developed. My parents are not collectors: they’re businesspeople. My goal was for Mexico to have a collection it could be proud of.” Eugenio López Alonso

“Eugenio López Alonso [...] conceived the Jumex as a private museum with internationalist ambitions but with a style of its own.”

The New York Times

Commissioned & Curated by EDOARDO FR ANCIA

Photo: René Castelán Foglia

“His present contemporary collection of more than 2,700 pieces is thought to be the largest of its kind in Latin America.”


Thirteen years ago, La Fundación / Colección Jumex began operating with a very clear purpose: to collect, investigate, disseminate, support and exhibit contemporary art. Located in the middle of the juice empire’s factory in the suburbs of México City, the 1200m2 gallery opened in 2001. Back then, everything seemed to be just one of Eugenio López Alonso’s dreams, the heir of one the biggest beverage companies in the world who, years ago, had begun to build an art collection. He had been advised by distinguished art professionals, and slowly, he realized that he had created something more than a collection: he had brought to life a significant change in his own country. Since then, the collection has grown to more than 2,700 pieces representing both the best Mexican and international artists of recent decades. The responsibility of managing such an important artistic resource demanded a strong exhibitions program that included different readings of the collection, solo shows from artists in the collection, a in depth research and a grant and sponsorship program. All of this implied a natural next step, to grow, as well as showing the love and dedication of Mr López to art and his country. Museo Jumex, conceived and executed by David Chipperfield’s Architects and inaugurated last November, is a four-story building, sheathed in marble that features an emblematic saw-toothed roof. For the inauguration, several projects were prepared that spoke not only of the identity of the collection, but also made a statement of the address to which the efforts of the foundation will

Photo: René Castelán Foglia

point in the future.

Museo Jumex has been planned, designed and overseen by Sir David Chipper field

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ART FOCUS /MEXICO CITY

Eugenio López Alonso proudly unveiled his Museo Jumex last November 2013

The first of these projects was the exhibition “A place in two dimensions: a selection from the Jumex Collection + Fred Sandback” that brought together two independent art exhibitions that co-exist in a single space. The first proposal of this project constituted a collective show that brought together a group of over fifty works of art created in several works of different media (photography, painting, sculpture, video, and installation), all of which are part of Colección Jumex. The second curatorial exercise was a solo exhibition of the American artist Fred Sandback (New York, 1943 - El Cairo 2003) that included seven of his renowned minimalist yarn sculptures. This project was inspired by the theory of parallel universes and the principle of simultaneous dimensions that establishes that two or more physical objects, realities or perceptions, can coexist within the same time and space. Therefore, in this case, the simplicity and lightness of Sandback’s pieces shared a space and contrasted with the strong physical and visual presence inherent in the works of Colección Jumex. Patrick Charpenel, born in Guadalajara and director of the Fundación Jumex, curated this show.

and intangible nature of much of Byars’ work, while also highlighting the inherently incomplete summary that an exhibition offers of an artist’s life and work. This was the first comprehensive museum survey of Byars’ art organized in North America since his death, and represents the full scope of the artist’s practice, including a selection of sculptures, fabric costumes, performable paper works, films, ink paintings, correspondence, ephemera, live performance, and documentation that emphasizes the performative moment as the decisive structure in Byars’ work. Also this project represented the first co production with MOMA ever made in México, curated by Magalí Arriola, Fundación Jumex curator and Peter Eleey curator and associate director of
exhibitions and programs from MOMA PS1.

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Photo: Michel Jean Philippe

In the second gallery, a solo show by American artist James Lee Byars “½ an Autobiography” focused on revealing the ephemeral


Finally as a treat for the opening event, Patricia Marshall, who has been working closely with Mr López on his artwork acquisitions for a long time, prepared a project that was shown in the basement below the museum. The intent of this was to show the difference between two cultures, the contrast between cultures of obsession and repression, and the Latin American way of poetry and celebration of life. In different juxtapositions of pieces a dark ambiance was created questioning the values of these days society. Both Mexican and international artists converged in this show. Curated by Rosario Nadal and installed in the main patio “Cosmogonía Doméstica” by Damián Ortega (Mexico City, 1967) is the first piece commissioned specially for the museum’s front patio. Inspired by the enclosed space of the artist’s apartment, this sculpture - which includes a table and chairs, plates and other domestic items - expands space and combines the private with the public. Rotating in a perpetual choreography, this installation incites the viewer to reevaluate the scale and meaning of their surroundings. “Las ideas de Gamboa” is a three-part exhibition exercise derived from a collaborative research project carried out by Fundación Jumex Arte Contemporáneo and Promotora Cultural Fernando Gamboa, the institution dedicated to preserving and managing Fernando Gamboa’s archive. The first component is a printed volume, which, through documents from his archive, exhibits some of Fernando Gamboa’s many cultural enterprises: his exhibitions, his work to develop Mexico’s public archives, his efforts to professionalize the study and practice of museography in Mexico, and his many research travels. The second part of this project is an exhibition entitled “Gente mirando arte (People Looking at Art)”, composed of reproductions of photographs from exhibitions organized by Fernando Gamboa. The third and final component will be a series of events including screenings and workshops. Great expectations are all for “Paradise”, the first exhibition in Latin America of one of the greatest postwar American artists, Cy Twombly, open from the 5th of June until the 12th of October. Curated by Julie Sylvester and Philip Larratt-Smith, this comprehensive survey features more than sixty paintings, works on paper, and sculptures from 1951 to 2011, including four of his last

Photo: José Luis Castillo

paintings as well as several works belonging to the Cy Twombly Foundation that will be exhibited for the first time.

Patrick Charpenel Director of Fundación Jumex

Patricia Marshall López’s Ar t Advisor

Rosario Nadal Deput y Director of Fundación Jumex

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ART FOCUS /MEXICO CITY

“Eugenio López had a very clear idea of the type of space he wanted. He wanted a big space to show the art. This ended up being the top floor, which it is complimented by smaller spaces on the subsequent floors that are very flexible in terms of what the curators can do with them.” Sir David Chipperfield

Sir David Chipper field Museo Jumex Architect

The artistic community has always pushed museums to go beyond their own limits, and the inauguration of Museo Jumex was an opportunity to question the role, meaning and scope of contemporary cultural institutions. By transforming the Galería 1 from a lecture hall into an experimental venue, this day-long program of events activated the exhibitions and made the museum perform. It provoked, challenged and invited the audience to participate in this exercise that held conferences, roundtables, discussions, lectures and performances. Participants included Gabriel Orozco, Abraham Cruzvillegas, Juan Villoro, María Minera, Hans-Ulrich Obrist, amongst others. As most people believed, the original space in Ecatepec was not abandoned but now complemented with the new galleries in the museum, this space held a show by Danish artist collective SUPERFLEX (Jakob Fenger, Rasmus Nielsen and Bjørnstjerne Christiansen). Their work deals with the complex relationship between art and society. The group critically confronts the contemporary global economic system in order to push its public to develop new forms of behavior. This exhibition is organized around four structural cores in SUPERFLEX’s practice: works that question intellectual property (copyright, registered trademarks, patents and the penetration of trademarked products in the global market); films that focus on political or economic issues; moral-legal contracts that destabilize institutions; and works that allow the public to participate directly in activities that challenge society. Almost seven thousand guests attended the different opening events, from a presidential event, to a brunch for more than eight hundred international guests. And of course the special and celebritive final party held on Saturday night until dawn: a celebration orchestra was the welcoming sound to a space where four golden foiled stairs that went all the way up to the ceiling met into an euphoric and crowded dance floor. With several high profile exhibitions to come, as well as projects with Mexican artists, and totally renewed publications department, the Museo Jumex will indeed be one of the mandatory references for contemporary art and culture in Latin America and the rest of the world.

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Photo: Bruno Cordioli

that sure will be one of the most legendary parties in the memory of each one of the three thousand invitees, where a skull-faced


“Eugenio loves Mexico, he understands our problems and our strenghts, so he knows how to approach Mexican art.”

Photo: Moritz Bermoully

José Kuri


HÔTEL D’ANGLETER R E GENEVA PLACES

With its remarkable views over the Lac Leman and the surrounding French Alps, the Hôtel d’Angleterre is a five-star boutique hotel centrally located, at walking distance from Geneva’s prominent attractions. Summer or winter, you will find plenty of activities only a short drive away, including nearby ski resorts, Swiss vineyards, as well as a handful of photogenic villages well worth the visit.


“No request is too large, no detail is too small” These are the words at the very heart of the Hôtel d’Angleterre, since its

the rooms and common areas or in the Windows Restaurants’ artistic and

addition to the Red Carnation Collection, a South African family-owned

innovative gastronomy. We strongly believe that if one restaurant should

luxury hotel chain, in 2001. Whilst the establishment has encountered

be on your bucket list, this is the one to choose. Come at 12:00 for a

numerous changes throughout its time, the exceptional hospitality from

quick business lunch to savor our local and high quality products, or at

its staff members has continuously placed it as one of the highest ranked

dinner time to enjoy the spectacular views over the sunset and savor an

hotels in Geneva, and number one on Tripadvisor. Through its elegant

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mixture of traditional sophistication and its exclusive “British Chic” char-

spare time in the Afternoon? Stop by the Observatory for our famous

acter, we invite you to make of this historic hotel your next home away

Afternoon Tea and you’ll be taken on a gourmet journey to Great Britain

from home. Please rest assured that your experience with us will be inimi-

in a heartbeat. Finish off the night by relaxing at the most renowned bar

table. Within our 45 rooms and suites, no two rooms are alike. Each owns

in Geneva, the Leopard Bar, with an enticing cocktail in an intimate and

its distinct personality in terms of style and decoration, with one clear

vibrant atmosphere, accompanied by live music from Mondays to Satur-

common point: the personalized service all of our staff members vow to,

days. Come and experience this special jewel – a haven of individuality,

tailored to your individual needs and wishes.

comfort, style, luxury and high gastronomy.

Exquisite art and design is a reoccurring theme throughout the Hôtel d’Angleterre, whether it be through the original works of art found in all

I s s u e N4 | 8


PL ACE S TO STAY

HOTEL MARTINEZ Cannes

JW MARRIOT Cannes

M AJESTIC BARR IER E Cannes

HOTEL DU CA P-EDEN ROC Ant ibes

GR A ND HOTEL DU CA P FERR AT C a p Fe r rat

HOTEL BELLES RIV ES Juan les Pins

HOTEL R A PH A EL Paris

LE BELLECHASSE Paris

HOTEL DE V ENDOME Paris

MARRIOTT HOTEL CH A MPS-ELYSEE S P a r i s

SAN REGIS Paris

V ILL A & HOTEL M AJESTIC Pa r i s

HOTEL PERSHING H A LL Paris

HYATT R EGENCY MADELEINE Pa r i s

LE MAS DE CHASTEL AS S t . Tr o p ez

V ILL A BELROSE S t . Tr o p ez

HOTEL BY BLOS S t . Tr o p ez

HOT EL FA IR MON T Monte Carlo

HOTEL METROPOLE Monte Carlo

MONTE CARLO BAY Monte Carlo

HO T E L P ORT PA L AC E Monte Carlo

V I S TA PA L AC E Monte Carlo

C A PR I PA L AC E HO T E L Anacapri

HOTEL IL SA N PIETRO Positano

LE SIRENUSE Positano

G R A N D HO T E L S AVOI A C o r t i n a d ’A m p ez zo

HOTEL CRISTA LLO C o r t i n a d ’A m p ez zo

FOUR SE ASONS HOTEL Florence


HO T E L H E LV E T I A & BRISTOL F lore nce

HO T E L S AVOY Florence

W ESTIN EXCELSIOR Florence

V ILL A AUGUSTUS Forte dei Marmi

BULGARI HOTEL Milan

FOUR SE ASONS HOTEL Milan

ROMA ZZINO HOTEL Porto Cervo

HOTEL CA L A DI VOLPE Porto Cervo

PITR IZZ A HOTEL Porto Cervo

CERVO HOTEL Porto Cervo

HOTEL CIPRIA NI Venice

HI LTON MOL I NO STUCK Y Ve ni ce

W E S T I N HO T E L E U ROPA & REGINA Venice

BAUER HOTEL Venice

HOTEL MONACO Venice

B E AU R I VAG E Geneva

FOUR SE ASONS HOTEL DES BERGUES G e n e va

HOTEL D’ A NGLETERR E Geneva

M A DA R IN OR IEN TA L Geneva

INTERCONTINENTA L Geneva

LE R ICHEMOND Geneva

C A R LTON HOT E L St Mortiz

KULM HOTEL St.Mortiz

K EMPINSKI GR A ND HOTEL S t . Mor itz

LE GR AND BELLEVUE Gstaad

G S TA A D PA L AC E HO T E L Gstaad

G R A N D HO T E L PA R K Gstaad

T H E M AY FA IR London


dubai CITY LIFESTYLE

Glamour, Lights and Luxury Events. Dubai has the Arabian ‘It Factor’.  In this city, More really is More!


A RT DUBAI CITY LIFESTYLE

by Dr. Serra Kirdar


Galler y: Schleicher/Lange · Title: The Impossibilit y of Cloud · Ar tist : Alison Mof fett  ·  Date: 2014 · Medium: graphite on paper  ·  Cour tesy : the ar tist and SCHLEICHER /L ANGE, Berlin · Dimension: 238x357cm

Dubai. Just the sound evokes images of high rises, bright lights, beaches, malls, and BLING!  Yet as is the case with many things, there is more to Dubai than what meets the naked eye.  Dubai, as part of the UAE is transforming itself from a retail/ banking/ real estate hub to one that has more cultural allure.  From the onset of Art Dubai 8 years ago, it has grown from strength to strength building on the diverse outreach of international gallery participation as well as drawing on diverse collectors and institutions.  Under the Patronage of HH Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, Vice-President and Prime Minister of the UAE, Ruler of Dubai, Art Dubai has become recognized as the leading international art fair in the MENASA (Middle East/North Africa/South Asia), and a cornerstone of the region’s booming contemporary art community playing host to not only over 75 galleries, but hosting performances, lectures, educational programs and the annual The Abraaj Group Art Prize. If there were a time to understand what Dubai has become, then Art Dubai week hosted annually in mid March is a the barometer that gauges the pulse of the city and what it has achieved in terms of internationalism and global branding.  As a Patron for Art Dubai, I have personally enjoyed the internationalism that has come with each passing year.  Last year, I hosted 30 fabulously dynamic and interesting Italian collectors from Rome who are on the Board of Trustees and Patrons of MACRO-MAXXI establishment at my home. Each and every member of the group I met are recognized formidable art collectors of Post War, Modern and Contemporary art.  In many cases it was their first time to Dubai and they were fascinated by some of the talent emerging from the Middle East.  Unfamiliar with many of the region’s top new stars but taken by the works of Halim Al Karim, Hayv Kahraman and Timo Nasseri to name a few, there was a unanimous appreciation for Ghada Amer with particular admiration for a beautiful work on paper.  It was a breath of fresh air to see such a diverse group of collectors appreciate some of these emerging artists that I, like many young collectors, believe are making headway in the art world at large whilst flying the flag of talent emerging from the Middle East region in parallel.  Members of the MACRO-MAXXI group included Mrs. Bulgari, Giuseppina Caltagirone, Paola Oliva, Principessa Jacaranda Caracciolo, Principessa Fabrizia Caracciolo di Castagneto, Enrico Ducrot, Laura Cibrario, Sonia Kehl, Francesco Schiavone Panni and Maria Franchetti to name but an illustrious few. The Art fair itself was by far the best one Art Dubai has hosted since its inception eight years ago.  The caliber of galleries partaking along with the art they showed demonstrated that Art Dubai has earned its place as a young but dynamic platform for art collectors globally.  I had the privilege of meeting an edgy group from Beijing, Platform China.  Known to represent China’s up and coming buddying artists, it was fascinating to see how worlds are coming together through art.  It was their first time to participate in Art Dubai and the idea that outreach was bringing such edgy, contemporary galleries from China, is what is making the Fair a vibrant hub for collectors, art enthusiasts and internationally minded people.  Art Dubai is strategically placed.  It serves as a gateway between West and East and showcases many emerging market artists who are not only gaining recognition in their home countries but in some cases have already made the transition to an international platform.  I personally consider Art Dubai to be a key time to be in the city where collectors and art lovers converge and in so doing new networks are forged both with galleries from corners of the globe to prominent, internationally like-minded individuals.  One particular day in the busy Art Dubai week last year started with a lunch at The One&Only Royal Mirage hosted by Sotheby’s Roxane Zand and Sotheby’s Chairman, and ended with a fun night out at Nasimi Beach at The Atlantis the Palm with prominent collectors from Rome. Art Dubai’s Marker, a curated programme of galleries and artspaces, focusing each year on a particular theme or geography will see Art Dubai Edition 2014 focused on Central Asia and the Caucasus with programs curated by the artists Slavs and Tatars.  Like everything else in Dubai, Art Dubai only seems to be going from strength to strength.  Exciting times ahead.

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DUBAI P OLO CITY LIFESTYLE

Rashid Al Habtoor, a well known UAE-based businessman, is an avid sportsman.  His name has long been associated with polo in the UAE.  He is after all the man who is seen responsible for developing polo in the Emirates – and introducing beach polo to the world. by Joanna Andrews

Rashid A L H A BTOOR Mr. Rashid Al Habtoor is the son of Mr. Khalaf Al Habtoor, one of the most prominent Businessmen from a renowned family in the UAE. Mr. Rashid is the CEO and President of Al Habtoor Trading Enterprises, which was established in the late 1980’s as a General Trading company and has since diversified it’s business activities into Automobile, Construction, Engineering, Project Management, Electromechanical, Financial Services, Information Technology, Building Materials, Travel & Tourism and Hospitality, Food and Beverage and Real Estate. Al Habtoor Trading has since expanded into Baku, Azerbaijan, in 1995 and later into other CIS countries, such as Georgia, Uzbekistan, Armenia and Tajikistan as an exclusive dealer of Mitsubishi automobiles. He has been involved in various charities including Christies, Sotheby’s and was the first to bring the Flying Hospital to Dubai.  Mr. Rashid is on the Board of Sheikh Zayed University technical committee and Chairman of Dubai Polo Club. Mr. Rashid was instrumental in introducing Beach Polo to the U.A.E and held its first tournament in Dubai in March 2004.  His interests include polo, skiing and scuba diving.  He formed a Polo Team in Dubai along with his brother and has participated in many International Tournaments in the UK, France, Germany and Spain. In addition to his successful business enterprises and sporting achievements Mr. Rashid is a devoted family man and a father of four children. Mr. Rashid Al Habtoor lives life to the fullest breaking all boundaries and bringing people together from all corners of the world.


HOW H A S P OLO E VOLV ED IN DUBA I? I started playing polo in 1991 when Dubai had something like 10 players.  Today there are over 150 polo players in Dubai.  That is significant growth.  But to expand the sport further we need to have more good polo fields – and this costs money.  We need an addition 4-6 fields.  A good field you cannot play more than one or two times a week. HOW H A RD IS I T AT T R ACT ING GOOD TA L EN T HERE? Today Dubai is a destination for polo.  Argentina is number one, England is number two and then comes Dubai and the United States – but today we are even bigger than the US because of the Silver and Gold Cup.  However we have the drawback of having to fly horses to Dubai whereas in Europe it is very easy as they can travel across land from England or France or Spain. W H AT A RE YOUR LONG T ERM HOPE S FOR P OLO IN DUBA I? The sport has been quickly gaining popularity, and I think what we are going to see is more private clubs coming up.  There are several clubs controlled by families already like us, the Bawardy’s, the Bin Drai’s, the Al Ghurair’s, but we will likely see more come to the fray. T HI S Y E A R S HE IK H A M A I T H A W IL L PA R T I C IPAT E IN T HE G O L D C U P S E R IE S W HEN YOU P L AY AG A IN S T A F EM A L E I S I T A N EQUA L P L AY ING F IEL D? Yes.  Once we are on the field there is no difference. HOW COMPE TITI V E ARE YOU AND HOW HARD IS IT PL AY ING AGAINST ANOTHER AL HABTOOR TEAM? I have built a very good organisation this year and I have got 14 new horses and it is very important for us.  We have Mahra and Habtoor is because of the handicap.  That’s why we have two teams.  It is good for competition and good for us and good for the image of polo.  We are playing very competitive and I am trying my best this year to win. SO IS MOHAMMED! So is everyone else! HOW M AN Y HORSE S DO YOU HAV E FOR E ACH PL AY ER? For the Silver and the Gold I am planning on having about 7 horses per player. W H AT DOE S IT REQUIRE TO BE A PAT RON OF A P OLO T E A M? A lot of money.  Millions in fact.  You need to buy horses, you need to organise, you need strong players. It all costs a lot of money. W H AT OT HER IN T ERN AT ION A L E V EN T S DO YOU PL AY IN? I play in the Silver and Gold in Spain.  I play the Royal Windsor, and hopefully this year I might get the chance to play with Cartier. W H AT A DV ICE WOUL D YOU GI V E TO A N Y K EEN P OLO PL AY ER S? I really encourage parents to let their children start polo early from a very young age.

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DUBAI agenda CITY LIFESTYLE

DUBA I Air Show 8

TH

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TH

N O V 2 0 1 5 · This is remarkably the fastest growing

air show in the world.  The event focuses on connecting buyers to sellers from all over the globe. Visitors can see over 130 planes while visiting the show. This biennial event is produced by F&E Aerospace, one of the most

FA S H IO N F ORWA R D

FFWD Dubai 1 0 TH

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1 3 T H A P R 2 0 1 4 · This events has become a driving

force behind Dubai’s continuously growing fashion business. Expect glamorous fashion shows, talks and discussions.  Fashion Forward Dubai celebrates local talents and opens the region to an international audience.

A L G A FFA L 60F T

Dhow Race

2 6 T H M A Y 2 0 1 4 · The Al Gaffal 60ft Dhow Race commemorates pearl divers, who are firmly rooted in Dubai’s history and economic success.  Held at the Dubai International Marine Club, the race features more than 100 traditional boats and thousands of participants and spectators.

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DUBA I International Boat Show 4 TH - 8

TH

M A R C H 2 0 1 4 · This event is a classic showcase of

yachts, supercars, equipment and supplies from both local and international builders, alongside the latest innovations in marine industry.  More than 50 countries are represented by exhibitors this year.

Art DUBA I

1 9 T H - 2 2 N D M A R 2 0 1 4 · As the leading contemporary art fair for the Middle East and South Asia, Art Dubai has become the essential gathering place for collectors, artists and art professionals from across the region and beyond.  This year’s eighth edition of Art Dubai takes place at Madinat Jumeirah and is sponsored by Cartier.  It is held under the patronage of HH Sheikh Mohammed Bin Rashid Al Maktoum, Vice-President and Prime Minister of the UAE, Ruler of Dubai.

DUBA I Festival of Lights

2 0 T H - 2 9 T H M A R 2 0 1 4 · For the first time Emaar Properties has joined hands with Ville de Lyon’s Festival of Lights to bring this magical experience to Downtown Dubai. For 10 whole nights, Dubai will be one of the brightest spots on the earth. Dubai will be lit from the Waterfront Promenade to the Dubai Mall and Burj Khalifa.

DU B A I Wo rl d C up

2 9 T H - 3 0 T H · M A R 2 0 1 4 · This is the UAE’s biggest social and sporting event. With a combined prize purse of US$27.25m, Dubai World Cup day is the richest day of racing in the world. The event features 9 races, highlighted by the $10m Dubai World Cup sponsored by Emirates Airline. The Cup also brings to an end the three-month long Dubai World Cup Carnival, a festival of high-class international racing which includes the Silver and Gold Cup.

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CIT Y LIFEST YLE/DUBAI

D r. Serra K I R DA R New York born, Serra Kirdar of Iraqi origin, can easily be considered a global citizen, feeling equally at home in the UK, US and currently in the Middle East.  Serra received her schooling in London at St Paul’s Girls School, going on to earn her BA in Middle Eastern Studies at the University of Oxford, where she also completed an MSc. in Comparative and International Education. She then completed her DPhil at St Antony’s College, Oxford University in 2004 entitled: ‘Gender and Cross – Cultural Experience with Reference to Elite Arab Women’.  Her rigorous academic career and interest in education and women’s empowerment in the Middle East has translated into an involvement with various philanthropic ventures.  She recently co-found ImpactIraq.com, a venture philanthropy web portal that showcases and acts as a funding stream to numerous established Iraqi charitable projects pertaining to heath, social, education and culture.  Serra also sits on the board of the New Leaders Group at the Institute of International Education, the International Advisory Council of the Asian University for Women.  She is a board member of the Iraqi Women’s Fellowship Foundation, as well as a Life Fellow of St. Anthony’s college, Oxford University, and a regular speaker at various international conferences.  Parallel to her educational focus, Serra has always had a finger on the pulse of all things lifestyle.  Her innate passion teamed up with her unique upbringing which saw her exposed to the top fashion designers, brands and retailers, on a global level, has harnessed her interest as well as her own personal style in the world of luxury. Serra is also a staunch supporter of art and is a patron of Art Dubai and the Iraqi Pavilion at the 2011 Venice Biennale.

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BOUTIQUES & SHOPS Comptoir 102 - for nicknacks/ boho hip accessories | SAUCE – local fashion multi brand store | The Odd Piece – great finds, for vintage furniture to spice up your home | Kaleidoscope by Mimi at Gallery Lafayette in Dubai Mall – boho ethnic/ hip resort wear | Boutique 1 – good selection of mainstream brands | The One – great place for home ware | Boom & Mellow – cool accessories | Symphony – fashion concept boutique HOTEL S & SPA One & Only The Palm – for the ultimate in luxury and romantic relaxation | Mina Salam – great beach and well located to enjoy best of the sun but also proximity to malls/restaurants | Best waxing woman Farah at Belle Femme | Best beauticians who come home – Beauty Master (hair blow dry/mani+pedi/great massage and reflexology) | Great facialist – Sylwia at Simple Skin | Hot stone massage – Sensasia Spa | Moroccan Hammam at One&Only Royal Mirage | Turkish Hammam at Jumeirah Zabeel Saray | Colourist – Delphine at Posh Salon, The Address Downtown CAFES / SHISHA TIME Chill out sunset drinks at One and Only the Palm | Afternoon shisha at Nasimi The Atlantis the Palm RE S TAUR A N T S For Japanese – Toko, Vida Downtown Hotel | For Peruvian – The Act, Shangri-La Hotel | For a very unique twist on Arabic – Qbara | For French – La Petite Maison NIGHTLIFE VIP Room | White Dubai | Movida AL SO M AY BE MOST AWAITED OPENINGS Sass Café | Clinton Street Baking Company – for the best breakfast PARKS Safa Park with a pitstop at The Archive for a coffee or breakfast fry-up BEACHES For raw beautiful beach experience with no frills head to the kite surfer’s beach in Jumeirah | Blue Marlin Ibiza UAE – for the ultimate party on the beach | Best beach to chill out and enjoy head to Mina Salam hotel WHY DUBAI Why not! Dubai is where superlatives converge.  The best of international brands, meet up and coming local homegrown talent.  With endless sun rays and unbeatable weather from October through April, it is at the cross roads of global sporting and cultural events.  The city caters to every age across a multitude of sectors and with a hospitality and luxury platform booming, it is the pulse of the region and fast becoming an international launch pad for lifestyle brands.

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Qbar a CITY LIFESTYLE

Setting the tone from the outset, Qbara, the new contemporary Arabic dining and lounge spot in WAFI, is Dubai’s newest place to be seen. With a grand entrance, boasting a red carpet and bespoke script wall, the tone of the venue is coveted from the outset. Cast in bronze, sculpted by Phuket based metal artist, John Underwood they depict poems and quotations about entertainment, food and the love of life, entwining both the Arabic and English language to create a piece of art.


On arrival, a hostess leads us to our table and we’re seated amongst

presentation and creativity - the Arabic fusion was so well done that it

Dubai’s most fashionable crowd, where we can really soak up the atmos-

allowed for complete authenticity. The crispy soft shell crab and seared

phere. It then becomes apparent that this is not just another Arabic

scallops were most definitely a favourite, followed closely by the Turkish

restaurant. The ambiance is intimate and the design is utterly stun-

beef tartare, which was full of rich flavor.

ning, whilst not overly adorned, guests can appreciate Qbara’s impressive design features, which include a bespoke chandelier and authentic

Interestingly presented was a salad, made up of different heirloom toma-

Afghani carpets. The most mesmerising of features is their 3D effect

toes, with sweet watermelon and salty shanklish cheese, the simplicity of

wall, which appears to move thanks to the clever use of illusion, through

which was truly wonderful. To compliment, we were given a portion of

moving image. Projected onto hand carved wooden panels it really it

succulent lamb cutlets, doused with a little spice, which was dressed with

something you need to experience first hand.

oregano and rosemary herbs, teamed with a cooling minted labneh.

Set over two levels the upper floor is home to their wine cellar, showcasing

The service was impeccable throughout and the waiter was only too happy

the finest wines and champagnes from across the world, encased in a floor

to advise and talk us through the dishes, sharing his knowledge of the

to ceiling glass display. Finished with carved timber it emulates a stylish

ingredients and preparation techniques. Just when we thought it couldn’t

souk and is embellished in Arabesque fabric. Offering comfortable lounge

get much better we were presented with the finale. The ‘honey and milk’

options, spread across a partially private, multilevel balcony, with three ele-

desert arrived in the form of a tower, topped with a fine disk of nut brittle

vated Majlis, you are offered the full VIP treatment that Dubai is all about.

and yards of Iranian pashmakc - candyfloss if you will.

We opted for the ‘Qbara Experience’, which offers around 13 small plates

Qbara’s concept is so unique and one which is truly cohesive to the spirit

and a dessert. First to arrive at the table was a selection of fresh breads

of Dubai. As a nightspot for a sophisticated drink or two, combined with

and a bowl of crudités, presented on ice, along side a rich truffle lab-

the fine dining excellence it’s a venue that needs to be number one on

neh. As the food continued to arrive, we became overwhelmed by the

your Dubai ‘to-do’ list.

Location: Wafi, Oud Metha, Dubai · Tel: +971 (0)4 709 2500 · Email: Reservations@Qbara.ae · Cuisine: Middle Eastern Dresscode: Smart Casual  ·  Experiences: Alcohol available, Cocktails, Family friendly, Smoking permitted  ·  Times: Sat-Wed 6pm-2am


high r esults AUCTIONS

Christie’s is a name that has become celebrated in the art world amongst elite buyers and sellers, deciding auction pieces for record-breaking sales.  Christie’s Dubai is enriched in grandeur and high-profile Middle Eastern names and has sold over $250 million pounds worth of art, watches and jewellery since the first international art auction which took place in 2006.  360 of these auctions have been record-breaking sales. by Ryan Cahill

Christie’s Dubai garnered a lot of attention in 2008, realising $2.8m for “Oh Persepolis” by artist Parviz Tanavoli, which is the highest auctions made in history for a piece by a Middle Eastern artist.  In addition to this, Christie’s Dubai also holds the record for the highest price paid for a piece by an Arab artist which was achieved in 2010 when Mahmoud Said’s “Whirling Dervishes” sold for $2.5m. The upcoming 16th sale season in Dubai, which commences on 19th March 2014 and is sponsored by Zurich, has an array of interesting pieces. One lot which is much-talked about, gaining favourable attention from potential buyers, is, Sixth Ode from Muallaqat Al Sabaa by acclaimed artist Ali Omar Ermes.  The piece is an ancient poem one of 7, however some say 10 by pre-islamic warrior poet Anter Ibne Shaddad describing his battles, and the complexity of life.  The poem is described as being on layers of opulent oranges, reds and violets.  With some of the proceeds going to the UN High Commissioner for Refugees (UNHCR) this piece seems destined to take high numbers when it goes to auction in the Spring. Elsewhere in the upcoming season there are pieces by the aforementioned Mahmoud Said.  His 1922 “A House In Talkha” will be featured in the 16th season alongside a magnificent piece by Shafic Abboud from 1988 called

Christie’s Dubai is undeniably at the forefront of the art world and gives Middle Eastern artists a platform on which to be recognised by art buyers around the world.  It’s evident success, which has been achieved over only matter of years, cements the companies continuing grow and development.

Image cour tesy of Christie’s

“Nuits V” which is a magical ensemble of green shades with lashings of reds, browns, oranges and yellows.


MARCOS MARIN a living legend IN THE MOOD FOR

“The most difficult – the first 60 years!” said Marcos Marin during our interview.  Prince Albert ll of Monaco and Pierre Cardin have supported this virtuoso for years and now this legendary artist of the Principality is gaining momentum with his unique pieces in Dubai. by Eva Tarasova

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IN THE MOOD FOR

Since the age of five, Marcos Marin took classical piano lessons at the Music Conservatory of Sao Paulo.  He began a career as a «virtuosi» pianist and at the same time developed a passion for painting.  In the 1990s, Marin met the great master, Vasarely.  After becoming increasingly intrigued by his work, Marcos embarked on his own personal journey of exploring optical art.  Subsequently, he won several awards: The FIAT Columbus Award, celebrating the 500th anniversary of the discovery of America (Fiat Museum of Turin) and the Philips Collection Award, with his piece, «Mona Lisa». ARTIST A manifesto.  An artist is allowed everything: old cars, bad clothes, being late, etc.  I do not follow any code, but I always remember to be polite! This way of thinking has helped me to remain simple in Monaco as oppose to “bling”.  I am never justified by who my friends are.  My art is an individual of its own and being an artist gives me the liberty to explore the different sides. OPTICAL ART Optical art became “vogue” in around 2005.  Many artists of this genre use geometric line but I specifically study humans and their faces.  Proust once stated, “our social personality is created by the thoughts of others” therefore I have come to master the ability to understand how others perceive objects through my techniques of constructing optical art.  This is where my originality truly shines. It is a derivative from my painting.  In 2003, I was invited to Arte Americas – the Latin American art fair in Miami.  Unfortunately, there were no walls available and I was offered to use the cables hanging from the ceiling.  I was not content with this idea therefore, after taking time to watch the space, I decided to create my first sculpture, the 4 meter «Mona Lisa». HERITAGE I am a son of Lebanese opera singer and a Spanish film producer.  At music school, my Russian piano professor would beat my fingers if I was not playing well.  One day, I came back home complaining to my father and he said he would speak to the teacher.  The next day he told her, “Next time he begins making mistakes, beat his fingers twice”.  I am not a traumatized child, but I had taken this lesson seriously and till this day, I am feeling very thankful for it.  I consider it a wonderful gift from my father.  That was an integral part of me when it came to developing my life as an artist.  Life is constantly challenging all of us and it is this lesson in particular that made me stronger. DUBAI Dubai is my biggest adventure and the love story with this city started 6 years ago.  One of my good friends from Miami has been training chefs for the Royal family and invited me to explore Dubai.  Thanks to him, I immediately got invited to the most exclusive events.  Being half Lebanese helped me tremendously too! Lamitta Frangieh helped me significantly by inviting me to one of the soirees organized by Forbes and that’s how I made very useful contacts amongst the top people in Dubai. Art Dubai for me is sort of “cultural explosion” that helped me understand local art and make great local friends in the fine art industry.  As an artist you are obliged to be sociable.  I want to bring something to the local society with my art.  Despite Dubai being very international, it is home to many Russians.  Thanks to my Russian agent, Anna Nova who has been there for almost 30 years, I am very present in their circles too.  This blonde is very influential: she always sits at the same table with the most powerful individuals in the country.

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I tremendously admire Mohammed Al Maktoum Emir of Dubai.  He is a humanist, who is making Dubai a truly international “delicious” place to be.  I was determined to do his portrait therefore I got into contact with a ProArt gallery dealer and went about creating two pieces.  It would be wrong to call them “sculptures” since they are not 3D.  Critics called it “magic shadow”.  My very first one was of Prince Fazza lll Skeikh Hamdan of Dubai whom I had the pleasure of meeting at the parachuting competition. The architecture of course! It is insane.  This year will be an anniversary of over 5 years of return flights to Dubai.  I feel like I am a part of its history.  Monaco and Dubai are very well connected because of the people living in between both places as well as the similarities in the quality of life.  What still amazes me is seeing at least fifteen familiar faces when you take a flight from Nice to Dubai. PROJECTS I am doing a couple of very interesting project for the French Consulate in Hong Kong and a French diva collection including the glamorous, Bridget Bardot, Edit Piaf and Katherine Deneve.  In addition, my friend Khalid Shafar is a very talented designer and had participated at Art Dubai with his chair made out of real pearls.  It is through him that I met Mohamed Al Suwadi, who currently owns a pearl farm in Ras Al Khaimah.  I was very excited to make my own art inspired by the piece by Khalid Shafar.  I put all of those wonderful contacts together whilst in contact with the Foundation of Prince Albert in Monaco and we are now doing the first jewelry collection for the Foundation.  It is 4 elements collection that deals with the environment.  It was presented on the 10th October 2013 in Sienna, at a charity gala of Prince Albert.

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st ylish, chic & comfortable INTERIORS

Breath-taking yet relaxing, full of surprises yet familiar, utterly discerning yet not quite decadent, luxurious and expensive, but never without comfort. The ‘metropolitan luxury’ of interior designer Eric Kuster is an experience in itself.


Conceptual thinking - that’s the question. But combining the beauty of several elements in a single object and making the result equally as exquisite as its individual parts is an entirely different matter altogether. And when it also needs to be unmistakably classy and comfortable at the same time, we find ourselves entering the creative world of interior designer Eric Kuster, the world of his unique concept of ‘metropolitan luxury’. Metropolitan luxury features a captivating and delightful interplay of top quality, beauty, delicacy and surprise. But the key word is ‘comfort’: the result must always be comfortable and never aloof. That comes with a cost, of course, but it makes you happy and improves the quality of life. All the more so because Kuster’s creations are stand-alone interiors each and every one, letting you experience new sensations time and again. And the fact that Kuster seemingly effortlessly achieves a perfect balance between classic and modern elements and ideas makes the introduction to his ‘metropolitan luxury’ even more intense. It all started with durable fabrics and textiles. A creative and commercial director, it did not take long before Eric Kuster channelled his inspiration into a successful fabric line; connoisseurs were primarily intrigued by his eye for colours and natural tones and shades. His first shop in Laren was an immediate success. It specialised in top-quality furniture, lighting and fabrics, making it the preeminent lifestyle shop in the Netherlands. Driven by a keen sense of refinement and quality, Eric Kuster developed his own line of handmade luxury furniture and a fabric and rug line for the upper segment. Even back then, ‘comfort’ was top priority. He immediately distinguished himself from other creators of luxury interiors with his generous dimensions - he once made a chaise longue that was 8 metres long! - very extensive finishing options (each of equally superior quality) and customisation down to the very last detail... A statement was born. His target audience was both private individuals and business clients. Today, the people at the Eric Kuster studio, design and carry out total concepts for homes, restaurants, hotels, luxury yachts, airplanes, offices and more... Naturally in the upper price category. Whereas Kuster originally focused on the Dutch market, it did not take long before his adventurous and travel-mad spirit began wondering around the world. Marbella, Dubai, Moscow, Bali... his ‘metropolitan luxury’ concept went down well everywhere it was introduced. And, as is so often the case, it worked both ways: Kuster’s creations were always a success and his numerous travels inspired him in turn to develop new ways of thinking. New landscapes, inspiring encounters and a multitude of styles all intermingled. Influences from Asia and the Middle East became intertwined with classic European notions, giving them a modern twist. Were it not for the ever-present ‘comfort’ element, you could very well call it a decadent lifestyle - highminded, but decadent all the same. Dark and light, black and white... Kuster enjoys playing with shades and colours. This includes his recommendations to use dark colours for the walls of a living area (to make it much warmer) or choosing colours vis-a-vis the size of the windows. The combinations with distinctive, elegant furniture in the most enviable finishes and ultra-surprising elements like large silver dollar bills that you can admire in his dream home in Huizen and his show house on Ibiza, continue to feed interest in his creations. Kuster’s furnishing of top ‘venues’ like Jimmy Woo in Amsterdam and the Nou Camp player’s lounge in Barcelona have earned him the absolute admiration of music stars like Nas and Kelis, Candy Dulfer and David Guetta, fashion designer Christian Audigier and football legends like Zinedine Zidane, Robin van Persie, Ruud Gullit, Patrick Kluivert and tutti quanti. Four years ago, Kuster opened his first mono brand shop on Ibiza, still by far his favourite

Photos by Eric Kuster

port of call. A second shop was opened three years ago, this time in Antwerp and the latest opening was Malta last February. Metropolitan luxury, the ultimate in comfort combined with the highest quality and most delightful elements continue to captivate and fascinate the lifestyle world. It needs to be seen and felt, experienced and enjoyed. In every aspect. And, believe us, Eric Kuster still has plenty of ideas up his sleeve.

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INTERIORS

INFORM AT ION SPARRENLA AN 11 1272 Rn Huizen (NL)  .  +31 (0) 35 531 8773  . info@erickuster.com MECHELSESTEENWEG 30-32 2018 Antwerp (BE)  .  +32 (0) 3 257 33 57  . antwerp@erickuster.com AVENIDA IGNACIO WALLIS N29  Bajo07800 Ibiza, Islas Baleares (ES)  .  +34 (0) 971 590 708 . ibiza@erickuster.com

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gulf S tream g650 PLANES

With an order backlog worth $14 billion and a waiting list that stretches to 2017 for its latest model, Gulfstream is a company in rude health. Meet the G650, its latest and most opulent offering. by Richard Lane


New York and Dubai. Newark and Shanghai. London and Buenos Aires.  These are but three city pairs the Gulfstream G650 has in its globetrotting repertoire, permissible by a record-breaking range of 7,000 nautical miles – some 12,964 kilometres – at an average speed not far short of the speed of sound. With its Rolls Royce engines delivering 16,900 pounds of thrust at maximum attack, the Gulfstream G650 is also the second fastest civilian aircraft on the planet (it was recently deposed by Cessena’s Citation X), boasting a top speed of Mach 0.925.  And for all the G650’s superlative qualities, it’s this compelling speed that best illustrates Gulfstream’s intention to continue its domination of the fast-growing business jet market. Illustrating this turn of pace, last year a G650 took the record for a westbound circumnavigation of the globe, traveling 37,614 kilometres from San Diego before returning to the same strip of tarmac just 41 hours and seven minutes later.  The historic ‘lap’ included 90 minutes of refueling at three locations. Power and performance are only half the game, however.  The largest cabin in its class means that the G650 offers seating arrangements for between eight and 18 passengers, thanks in part to Gulfstream’s preference for an oval-shaped fuselage instead of a more conventional circular one.  Enormous panoramic windows flood that space with natural light during the day and the aircraft’s sophisticated cabin pressurization system is capable of circulating 100 percent fresh air. The option of tailoring just about everything within this spacious cabin – with a number of third parties offering extensive customization – is also very much par for the course at this price.  That’s $64.5

Image cour tesy of Gulfstream

million, if you’re asking.

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ChÂteau Smith Haut Lafitte WINE

by Linda Johnson-Bell


We are standing on a wide, gravel terrace overlooked by faux-medieval towers and turrets thickly covered by clinging crimson ivy which curls and twists its way in and out of the château’s curves and crevices, like a lover’s embrace.  Waiters carrying trays of sumptuous canapés wind their way in and out of the groups of revellers.  There is a troupe of strolling minstrels.  Lining either side of the terrace, framing it, are 30-foot long tables dressed in white linen, heavily laden with crystal glasses and countless bottles of priceless vintages.  There is an early evening breeze playing with the hems of our gowns.  And the rustling of taffeta and organza creates its own variation to the melody of the madrigal floating nonchalantly above the hum of our gay banter. Such magnificence.  We have been transported to this magical kingdom.  But the real attraction for us is the view from the terrace, to what lies beyond…  a rich sea of lusciously abundant rows of immaculately-tended vines.  Their fruit has set and they are about to start véraison, the ripening process.  The bunches are a mix of unripe bright green grapes and those that are starting to turn red or yellow.  The effect is stunning, like a kaleidoscope as the setting warm summer sun dances upon their skin.  Just as we thought we could not experience any more pleasure, little sprites dressed as mini-court jesters come springing up from hidden trampolines, performing flips and somersaults high in the air above the vines.  It is June 1995, the evening of the Fête de la Fleur, the closing banquet for Vinexpo, the highlight of Bordeaux’s season.  And we are guests at the Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte, a Grand Cru Graves, in Pessac-Léognan. All seemed to be well and fine.  The evening’s hosts, the glamorous owners of the château, were mingling with apparent insouciance with their 500 guests of the international wine trade.  But this was far from the truth.  For Florence and Daniel Cathiard, this evening was going to mark either their success or the Günzianir failure.  Having sold all of their business assets to buy the estate in 1990, they were new to wine, new to Bordeaux, and they were setting up shop in a new appellation: Pessac-Léognan had until recently been a part of the Graves AOC.  And all of this in a region where people forget too quickly that they, too, were once new; that Bordeaux was born from enterprise and commerce. The Cathiards had missed out on the spectacular 1990 vintage.  They had a château with no roof, vineyards with depleted soils and a wine that was not taking advantage of its terroir’s potential.  Unbelievably, 1991 brought frost.  1992 brought rain.  1993 and 1994 brought more bad weather and bad news.  So, in June 1995, not knowing what was just around the corner and still spending a fortune on the on-going resurrection of the estate, and, with the eyes of the world’s wine trade upon them, there seemed very little to celebrate.  Then came the 1995 harvest.  The year that was heralded as the best vintage of the century.  The vintage that launched them and secured their future.  And, just in time. The Cathiards met when they were teenagers and both on the French national ski team.  They have been a team ever since 1965, and it has been their shared ambition, work ethic and passion that has meant that they have succeeded in every enterprise they have undertaken: Daniel growing his family’s supermarket into a large group and buying Go Sport, which they turned into a nationwide sports chain, and Florence starting her own advertising agency before becoming Vice President of McCann Europe.  Yet if you ask either of them if they feel that they have become part of the establishment, they would modesty admit to feeling as outsiders.  But they are wrong.  They have done better than just “belong”.  They have led and are still leading.  They have taken the best of themselves, superimposed it upon the best the system has to offer and jettisoned the rest. In just 17 years they have built a family dynasty dedicated to the creation of aesthetic delights.  It was not enough to start producing a string of award-winning wines, they opened gastronomic restaurants, a line of organic creams and the first ever vinotherapy spa hotel.  Amusingly, the idea of a spa hotel was initially “given”

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WINE

to their eldest daughter, Mathilde, and meant to provide an additional revenue stream to help prop-up weaker vintages – a sort of “back-up” plan.  But such was the success of this endeavour that the business has been known to eclipse that of the wine.  Mathilde’s one little spa hotel on her parent’s wine estate, starting out by using their left-over grape skins and pips for her experiments, is now an international cult brand, Caudalie, and a patented process (Vinothérapie®) with locations in France, Spain, New York, Brazil, Istanbul, Portugal, and most recently, London.  Their younger daughter, Alice, had to be brought in to run the hotels.

Florence attributes their success to two principal things: to their terroir, the Günzian gravel responsible for imparting a distinctive smoky essence into their wines, and to their family: their shared passion for aesthetics, a commitment to professionalism, and a common desire to work in the most sustainable possible ways, from how they treat the vineyard soils, to how they source the ingredients for their cosmetics.  A good family and a good terroir: both are needed to establish strong and healthy roots. Having inherited a soil that was worn out from the use of heavy chemicals and excess fertilisation, the estate’s 78 hectares are now entirely organic.  Fully aware of the changing climate and the toll viticulture can take on the environment, they are mitigating by having gone carbon neutral…  and are working towards becoming carbon positive.  They are also the first to capture the CO2 released during the fermentation process and to turn it into bicarbonate of soda.  As far as adaptation goes, they are battling the rising alcohol levels by blending their parcels differently, by selecting grapes for their first growth from parcels that are north facing, rather than the warmer south-facing parcels, and are experimenting with both heat-resistant clones, scions and older, indigenous varieties.  In fact, they have their own private island in the Garonne, as a dedicated two-hectare experimental nursery.  Courageously reluctant to go down the easy route of irrigation, Florence argues that “irrigation does not make the wine fresher”. This same desire to adhere to the rigorous principles of quality are also found in Caudalie’s products and spas.  When Mathilde and her husband Bertrand Thomas met Professor Vercauteren from the Bordeaux Faculty of Pharmacy in 1993, he explained to them to what extent “grape seeds are treasure troves”.  This eureka moment led to the creation of a new line of cosmetics and anti-ageing products using a revolutionary procedure through which grape polyphenols are able to be stabilised.  And we all love polyphenols: those

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antioxidant molecules that behave as free-radical scavengers…  the secret ingredient of the “French Paradox" and why we should all be drinking a bit of red wine each day. The first Caudalie products were created in 1995.  Because Mathilde wanted her products to be free from the preservatives parabens, her first product trials were…  interesting.  She’d send samples to women she knew in the wine trade and ask us to comment.  They smelled divine at first application, but after a few hours would start to take on a life of their own.  Happy to be one of her guinea pigs, I religiously slathered myself in the creams until I noticed, or rather, those around me noticed, that there were some unpleasant afer-effects.  I remember smelling like an off bottle of vinegar, if vinegar can ever even be “off".  But balance was soon achieved and with the help of local pharmacists they launched Caudalie.  An apt name: a caudalie is the unit that measures each second of the duration a wine’s flavour remains on the palate.  The longer the finish, the finer the wine, the more caudalies there are.  They began with two face creams and nutritional supplements.  In addition to polyphenols, the grapevine’s stalks contain resveratrol, an anti-ageing ingredient.  And the grapevine sap contains viniferine, the most powerful natural molecule against dark spots. Then, whilst carrying out some groundwork on the estate, they discovered a hot spring 500 metres below ground and decided to incorporate its healing properties with their creams…  and voilà, the first Vinothérapie® Spa was created in 1999.  Here too, the family put into practice the same sustainability methods they use in the winery and vineyards: packaging is made from recycled and recyclable paper and plastic; 90% of their point of sale materials is printed on recycled paper or from sustainably managed forests; recycling systems are used to reduce waste and consumption of raw materials; and the spa has its own water treatment station to reuse wastewater from the Vinothérapie® Spa for watering the gardens. Visiting the estate is like entering another world…  an oasis of luxury that sizzles with energy and excitement yet soothes and pleases all of the senses.  Florence has even indulged in her passion for modern sculpture and their collection is noteworthy, indeed.  Many well-known wineries around the world have added a few more strings to their bows in order to give the wine lover an extra dimension to their visit, but few have managed to do so in such an non-contrived manner.  The Cathiard’s elegance is an effortless one.  Their wines, as do they, manage elegance and structure, freshness with complexity and balance with richness.  When I asked Florence what else she would like to achieve, she said that she wished that she could afford a few more of her favourite sculptures, such as Louise Bourgeois’ “Maman”, something of Richard Serra’s, or most of all, McCracken’s stunning “Stairway to Heaven”.  Although I cannot imagine why.  Heaven?  She’s already there.

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Italia Independent IN CONVERSATION WITH

Andrea Tessitore, Lapo Eduard Elkann, Giovanni Accongiagioco

Image cour tesy of Italia Independent.

Timeless. Dapper. Iconic. Those are a few adjectives that are used when describing Italian fashion, which usually don’t leave much room for the more youthful, temporary efforts. Italia Independent, a young collective based in Italy, made its mission to change the way Italian fashion is perceived by creating a blend of fashion, design with an innovative touch. A renewal that has been ongoing for 7 years now, gaining momentum and a strong following with the new wave of Italian talent happening at the moment, a breeze of fresh air that already plays an important role on Italy’s fashion field.

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IN CONVERSATION WITH

1. T H E ID E A O F I TA L I A IN D E P E N D E N T, W H Y T H E N A M E “I TA L I A IN D E P E N D E N T ”. HOW DID THE IDE A OF ITALIA INDEPENDENT EMERGE, WHAT PUSHED YOU TO CRE ATE A BRAND LIKE THIS ONE? LE: It all began back in 2006 together with Andrea Tessitore, a lawyer and old friend, and Giovanni Accongiagioco, who had worked with me in brand promotion whilst at Fiat, we began brainstorming and asked ourselves: why not creating something just ours? We had to build and conceive something different; we wanted to make people talk about us and our products. Starting from there, we decided to establish our own company, and, in 2007 we founded Italia Independent launching the first pair of glasses entirely made in carbon and inspired by the way it was used on Stealth, my grandfather’s sailboat. Since then, many contaminations characterized the brand. Both in the eyewear and in the lifestyle products, its strengths are the research and the use of innovative materials that are grafted on products with timeless lines, creating a fascinating mix of tradition and innovation. Italy is not only where the company is based and operates but also the place that inspires our projects. Independent because we stear away from stereotypes: we do not follow the fashion clichés, at the contrary with I-I we try to create a style. To resume what I-I is in one sentence : it is a creative and stylish brand for independent people that blends style and design, tradition and innovation. 2. WHAT CHAR ACTERIZES ITALIA INDEPENDENT? GA: The brand aims to reload and update the traditional concept of Made in Italy, bringing it to the next level. We do not want to deny the work of those that, during the years, built up its values but we want to reinforce it. On one side with Italia Independent, we want to draw on tradition, improving day by day and refining what has been done to date, in full respect of the classic line; on the other one, we want to create product of break with the past, enhancing the concept of innovation through research of materials and contaminations between different worlds. The creativity and the enthusiasm of our team that works everyday to test new materials make the difference. One example could be our best seller, the 090V: we were the first to launch glasses with a velvet effect. The 090V features an iconic shape in the eyewear industry, embellished by UV LUX treatment, which makes the surface of the sunglasses soft at touch as if it was covered within velvet. One of the I-I most innovative product, the I-Thermic, fully expresses the innovation that I-I represents and focuses on. The I-Thermic products are characterized by a special process that provides the deposition of an enzyme with coloured pigment that, once reached the temperature of approximately 26°C, reacts becoming transparent and letting visible the colour or the texture on the base. Iconic shapes, whose success is consolidated. On the other hand, we also have the I-Metal glasses in classical and timeless shapes, made of super high-strength thin steel. The shapes are reinterpreted with vibrant colours and a matt-coated varnish. The I-Thin glasses have a great personality, 100% Italia Independent, nothing like this has been seen before on the market. The fusion of these last 2 products gave birth to the greatest success in term of technology for our 2014 collection: the I-Metal Thermic. Last but not least, another characteristic of I-I that makes us different is our Tailor Made Program that comes out with the specific purpose of creating eyeglasses fully customized in colours, in materials and lenses. Infinite number of possible combinations. In fact, we can create more than 3 millions possible variations. The only limit is your imagination. 3 . A C H I E V E M E N T S / F U T U R E P R O J E C T: AT: More than 1 year ago we realized that the company was drastically growing and we needed to have bigger objectives. The best solution for our ambition was to be listed in the Alternative Investment Market which was also in perfect synergy with our DNA. At the time being where the access to credit is becoming harder and harder, being listed on the Alternative Investment Market has represented a real alternative to grow keeping on being independent. It allowed us to open ourselves to the market and to new investors, while remaining consistent to our philosophy, which is expressed in the independence of the brand and the continuing search for innovation and creativity. We were then able to invest in innovation and to ensure the high quality of our products in order to support the further development of the retail business. We expected also to gain bigger legitimacy and credibility on the international markets and, to date, we have fully achieved this goal. In 2010, 100% of the turnover was made in Italy. In the first nine months of 2013 things changed and 60% of our turnover was made in Italy while foreign countries made the remaining 40%. We can say that the expansion plan of the company consists of two lines. First of all, the consolidation of our position in Italy, where our glasses are now present in about two thousand stores, including the flagship store we opened on November 14th 2013 in Via Monte Napoleone in Milan. The other one is the internationalization of the brand. We are working hard to reinforce our presence in foreign markets that represent a point of reference for the group: we just opened our Spanish and French branches, but one of the most challenging one was to open the American HQ in Miami. In the coming months we will also open new stores and corner, with a high priority to London, New York, Miami, Paris and Tokyo. Now we must prove to those who believed in us that we are able to stay on the market. We feel much stronger than some months ago because solidity and credibility allowed us to bring the project outside the borders.

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Academy Awards Week 2014 SOCIAL SEASON

A Glamorous Week at the Oscars The days leading up to the Academy Awards ceremony at the Dolby Theater in Hollywood make up one of the most star-studded weeks on the international social calendar. This one set the bar high for glamour in 2014 and we are pleased to share this recap of some of our favorite parties. Chopard, Chanel and Piaget gave back elegantly, with charitable efforts fully integrated into each extravaganza. The 130-year-old Italian jewelry house Bulgari, kicking off Oscar week with a stand-out soirée the “Decades of Glamour” fête hosted by Naomi Watts who stunned in a vintage gold, amethyst, emerald and diamond choker.

by Aleim Johnson

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On Wednesday evening, Vanity Fair, Benedikt Taschen and Leon Max held a private cocktail party at the Chateau Marmont Hotel for famed photographer Annie Leibovitz and her new limited edition book that includes over forty years of her iconic work. Photographer and close friend Mario Testino attended, as did the acclaimed British painter David Hockney and other Hollywood A-listers. The evening was also a benefit for the charitable organization Donors Choose. On Thursday evening, the Gagosian Gallery held a pre-Oscar exhibition for photographer Taryn Simon’s “Birds of the West Indies” exhibit, followed by a sit down dinner at Mr. Chow's in Beverly Hills. Ms. Simon’s mother-in-law Blythe Danner and sister-in law Gwyneth Paltrow were in attendance along with Cameron Diaz, Edward Norton, Jared Leto and Terry Richardson. The late night crowd headed to the Holmby Hills home of Larry Gagosian where cocktails flowed until the early morning hours. On Friday, mega-power-agent Bryan Lourd’s best friends and CAA’s top clients, including Jennifer Lawrence and Matthew McConaughey, all attended the Creative Artist Agency pre-Oscar party. Roberta Armani celebrated Oscar nominees Martin Scorsese and Paolo Sorrentino during a cocktail event at the Beverly Hills Armani store. Tod’s, the luxury leather brand hosted a cocktail party for the label’s bespoke Sartorial collection for men at its Rodeo Drive boutique. On Saturday, L’Oreal hosted the Night Before party at the Beverly Hills Hotel. This annual scene is deceptively casual, but all you need to know is that Everyone who is Anyone makes it there. This year was no exception: the A-list was out in force to support the Motion Picture and Television Fund, which helps the retired members of showbiz. Sunday is the evening of the Academy Awards and there are only three places to be on that day: Elton John’s charity gala for Aids Research, the Vanity Fair party, still the most coveted invitation in town and which moved to a larger space this year - a parking lot on the south side of West Hollywood’s Sunset Plaza with sweeping views of the city - and Madonna’s late night party where absolutely no photos are allowed and security is extremely tight. Taylor Swift, Miley Cyrus and Lady Gaga were all in attendance this year, dancing until dawn. Annie Liebovitz · Mario Testino · Cate Blanchett · Ellen Degeneres · Por tia de Rossi · Elton John · David Furnish · Jeremy Renner · Marcia Gay Harden · Caroline Scheufele · Safia El Malqui · Mer yl Streep · Taylor Swif t · Jaime King · Glenn Close · Olivia Munn · Eugenio López · Edoardo Francia · Harrison Ford · Calista Flockhar t · Tar yn Simon · Bly the Danner · Matthew McConaughey · Lupita Nyong’o · Jared Leto · Amanda Kerr · Paolo Sorrentino · Rober ta Armani · Mar tin Scorsese · Reese Witherspoon · Naomi Watts · Isla Fisher · Gabriele Salvadori · Nadya Arsekina · Kate Hudson · Naomi Watts · Lupita Nyong’o · François-Henri Pinault · Salma Hayek · Emmy Rossum · Diana Agron · Kate Boswor th · Stephen Moyer · Anna Paquin

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A F I N E DAY AT T H E R AC E S C a p e To w n 2 0 14 SOCIAL SEASON

The L’Ormarins Queen’s Plate returns to Kenilworth Racecourse

Kenilworth Racecourse in Cape Town was once again swathed in blue and white on Saturday, 11 January, as equine enthusiasts, celebrities, fashionistas, socialites and betting buffs gathered for the historic 153rd running of the Cape’s most prestigious horseracing event, The L’Ormarins Queen’s Plate. From 11:00, the air around the iconic track was filled with the heady smell of freshly cut grass and the excited chatter of race-goers in anticipation of a day that promised prime horseracing, world-class entertainment and top-drawer South African fashion. This year the celebrated equestrian meet featured several internationally-recognised races for the first time, including The L’Ormarins Queen’s Plate Oak Tree Stakes and Paddock Stakes (the only South African races that grant winner’s entry to the elite Breeders’ Cup Mile) as well as England’s revered race, the Glorious Goodwood’s Grade 2 Peninsula Stakes.

FIRST COLUMN Alice Heusser, Luke Wingfield-Digby, Sarah Trent & Thomas Cutton Beach Beaut y’s winning team Chester Williams & Rob Louw Christ y-Bianca Linder, Kim Grey (Best Hat Comp Winner) & Amber Leale Ilca Jonker, Brett Roux & Karlien de Wet SECOND COLUMN Anton Ruper t & Jordy Smith Anna Bow z yk and Ross du Jour Chloe Norgaard & Kristian Schmidt Donna Downie and Gaynor Ruper t Cindy Nell (Best Dressed Women Competition Winner) & Liezel van der Westhuizen THIRD COLUMN Christine Gibson Capetown Noir’s Jockey Karl Neisius with owner Lady Laidlaw Careen Truter and Marla Br yan Hodges, Daniel Cameron, Steve Gr ylls, Sebastian Davies & Nicki Austin

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SOCIAL SEASON

Urged on by the punters, Cape Guineas Grade 1 and Cape Derby Grade 1 winner, Cape Town Noir, and rider Karl Neisius were first past the post – ahead of favourite, Jackson as runner-up and six-year-old gelding, Jet Explorer in third place – to claim the winner’s garland and the greatest share of the R1 million purse. “The L’Ormarins Queen’s Plate 2014 exceeded expectations in every area.  In excess of 6 000 people enjoyed the various culinary and hospitality offerings at the Style Lounge, Drakenstein Luncheon, Jockey Club and the legendary Stud Club, whilst on-course betting turnover was up 25% from last year.  It was a magnificent occasion that reminded all present why LQP is considered the Cape’s premier horse racing event,” says The L’Ormarins Queen’s Plate 2014 Coordinator, Katherine Gray. Meanwhile, in the tented shade of the Stud Club, the cream of local society – including models, actors, top sportsmen, business leaders, and popular TV personalities – rubbed shoulders with illustrious international guests including the Earls and Countesses of March and Harrington, Mr and Mrs Johnny Weatherby of Weatherby’s Racing Group, Mike + The Mechanics frontman Mike Rutherford, and Eddie Jordan of F1 Jordan Racing. “Once again, The L’Ormarins Queen’s Plate 2014 delivered some of the finest couture of the season and the traditional fashion competitions were a major highpoint of the day – it was especially exciting to finally give the nod to our male guests in the inaugural Best Dressed Man category.  Our celebrity judges certainly had a hard time picking the winners!” adds Katherine Gray. Model, TV presenter and former Miss South Africa, Cindy Nell-Roberts took the Best Dressed Lady accolade whilst Best Hat honours went to popular fashion blogger, Kim Gray and actor/comedian, Siv Ngesi took the first-ever Best Dressed Man award. Finally, as the dust settled and the sun began to set over Table Mountain, popular local DJs, Fresh and Euphonik and glamorous UK queen of dance, DJ Lora, took to the decks until late in the evening, drawing the crowd to the dance-floor for memories that will last up until the 154th running of The L’Ormarins Queen’s Plate - to take place at Kenilworth Racecourse on 10 February 2015.

FIRST COLUMN Kim Grey - Best Hat Comp Winner Thandie Kupe and Evan King Lyndall Jar vis & Jordy Smith SECOND COLUMN Leigh-Anne Williams and Paul van Deventer Lady Laidlaw receiving the trophy from Mrs Gaynor Ruper t Nadya Arsekina & Gabriele Salvadori LQP 2014 4 THIRD COLUMN Lauren Jameson & A shleigh Barnard LQP 2014 5 Robbie and Mist y Louw with Jasna Zellerhof f Tracey McGregor with Jackie Wiese and Tara Osborne

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C h u k k e r, Snow a n d D i a mon ds

ST MOR I TZ POLO WOR L D CU P ON S NOW SOCIAL SEASON

by Dawn Wood

Polo is one of the oldest games in sporting history and originates from Chinese and Persian descent. Associated with upper class status and wealth, Polo has long been a competitive horse-riding sport that requires determination as well as a high degree of patience from both competitors and horses. In the humble beginnings this was a sport known as ‘hockey on horseback’, but Polo has evolved significantly since it was first discovered in the 16th Century. Today more than 77 countries compete in Polo tournaments every year and it is a sport that holds a regal, Olympic reputation. The most recent Polo event to take place this year was the Cartier St. Moritz Polo World Cup. This prestigious sporting event took place over the style, fashion and business sectors. Official sponsors of the event included the likes of: Cartier, Ralph Lauren, BMW and Deutsche Bank to name a few. The equestrian tournament was situated on top of the infamous snow-covered Lake St. Moritz, as it is tradition to host such an internationally acclaimed event through wintry weather conditions. For a number of years Lake St. Moritz’s glamorous Swiss location has been a place for sport and fashion lovers to convene. Getting involved with one of the world’s most popular sporting events in history is an important date for many people’s calendar, and its certainly an event that shows no signs of slowing down anytime soon. The Alps overlook this beautiful resort town in Switzerland’s Engadine Valley making it an attractive location for guests attending, in addition to tourists who may be on a haute winter break.

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Image cour tesy of St. Moritz Polo AG

course of 4 days, from January 30th to February 2nd 2014, and was sponsored by many partners from the life-


The St. Moritz Polo World Cup on snow is a high-contact sport that is now played all across the globe. From Italy and Aspen to America and China, it’s no wonder the St. Moritz tournaments attract over 12,000 spectators each and every year. What’s more is that this year was in fact its 30th anniversary celebration, with the very first tournament taking place back in 1985. Devised up of 4 competing teams all hoping to win the elusive Cartier trophy, this has always been an event focused on lucrative Polo playing as well as polished, equestrian style. Luxurious fashion designer Ralph Lauren exercised his passion for Polo heritage by ensuring the teams were fully kitted out in only the finest quality clothing. Team shirts and accessories were of course available to buy on the Lake throughout the 4 day tournament as well as directly from Ralph Lauren’s St. Moritz boutique. On the final day of the event there was even a special awards ceremony to celebrate the trendiest Polo player. The winning team was Team Cartier who also won the title in 2013. The appropriately named Cartier team defeated Team Ralph Lauren with a close final score of 2-1. The winning team: Jonathan Munro Ford, Max Charlton, Chris Hyde and Hissam Ali Hyder couldn’t have been more ecstatic when they went home with their victorious prize. Cartier’s players and their horses demonstrated an outstanding endurance throughout the finale which inevitably led to their winning score. Team BMW came in at third place and fourth place was awarded to Team Deutsche Bank. The general atmosphere was a complete success despite the treacherous snowy weather conditions. Bernhard Pöllinger, Head of Sports and Infrastructure at St. Moritz Polo Corporation commented on the overall performance of the competitors: “The players and horses delivered an exceptional performance and provided a demonstration of polo at its very best. The weather conditions created a special atmosphere and brought the guests, players and organisers together.”


F ROM E A S T TO WEST

Chinese Haute Couture in Gstaad SOCIAL SEASON

Guo Pei’s stunning VIP private show was hosted by Caroline Freymond and Romy Demaurex two enthusiastic fans of the designer. The show was held at Caroline Freymond’s beautiful Chalet Farb in Gstaad. Looking like a college student, Guo Pei was born at the start of the Cultural Revolution when the drab functional”Mao” uniforms were obligatory wear. In 1982, at the age of 19, she enrolled at the Beijing Second Light Industry School to study fashion design influenced by the extravagant costumes she saw in fashion design books. By 1997, when she opened Rose Studio, there was no Haute Couture in China . Guo Pei launched her career at the dawn of a new “Golden Age of China”. In her Beijing showroom, her stunning works transport you to another time and place. She has a fashion empire all under one roof where she employs 450 craftsmen including designers, pattern-makers, sewing technicians, embroideries and jewellers, allowing her to ensure the best quality by controlling the entire production process. The private show held in Gstaad by Caroline Freymond and Jewellery Designer Romy Demaurex was a wonderful event in an environment of luxury and intimacy which gave the designer’s creation an extra touch of sumptuousness.

FIRST COLUMN Romy Demaurex & Guo Pei THIRD COLUMN Jack Cao Bao , Caroline Freymond, Guo Pei, Romy Demaurex and Mr Eric Freymond Photography by Alexander Aarotin & Nicolas Schopfer and Miranda Correa Rosestudio Beijing mailto:jack@rosestudio.com.ch.

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THE WEDDING OF KR ISTINA & ZEIN SOCIAL SEASON

It is the season... On March 1st, 2014, the Alpina hotel in Gstaad welcomed Zein and Kristina Mattar to exchange their vows during a wedding worthy of royalty. The event, which was preceded by a dinner at la Fromagerie in the Gstaad Palace the night before, saw the reunion of their friends and family from the UK, Saudi Arabia, Lebanon, Russia, Monaco and Uzbekistan to celebrate the union of the lovely couple (who grew up in London and now live in Switzerland) and enjoy the delicious catering of the Alpina Hotel and the wedding cake by Charlie’s Tea Room.

FROM LEF T TO RIGHT The Bride and the Groom · The Bride and the Groom outside the Alpina Hotel · Fatima and Mutaz Ghandour · Kristina and Zein Mattar Vout y and Saad Mattar( The Groom’s parents) · Bride and Groom with Family on staircase · The Groom giving a kiss to the Bride · Davide and Irina Basile with the Bride · Dina Barilla and Gabriele Salvadori · The Cake cutting Rawia Ghandour Khodor and Zeina Mattar · Saad and Mira El Zein with Seema El Zein · The Groom and the Bride · Kat ya and Reza Nassarpour · Kristina and Zein Mattar Youssef and Nadine Tohme · The Bride with her Bridemaids · The Guests · Lina and Mutassem Al-Husari

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Chatila

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Roger Dubuis Salavatore Ferragamo Skinceuticals Sisley Van Cleef & Arpels

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www.audemarspiguet.com

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Big Bang Ferrari Ceramic Carbon. UNICO column-wheel chronograph. In-house Hublot movement. 72-hour power reserve. Polished black ceramic case and carbon fiber bezel. Yellow counter and lower bezel. Interchangeable strap with a unique attachment. Limited edition of 1000 pieces.

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