Half Cup Balcony Bra â€“ Parisian Chic Wired, Stretch Lace
Bill of Materials
Description Galloon Stretch Lace
Where Used Side Cup Centre Front Cup
Wing Elastic (Right side, Wrong side)
Top of Wing Underband
Bra Strap Elastic
Halter neck Strap
Centre Front Stabilising Tab
Back Right As Worn
20mm x 14mm
Back Left As Worn
20mm x 45mm
Construction Method Step 1 | Cutting Method v Cut 1 pair Centre Front Cup panel in Galloon Lace including the scalloped edge of lace in the pattern piece, place the seam allowance line in the centre of a scalloped edge dip for the overbust seam. v Cut 1 pair Side Cup panel in Galloon Lace including the scalloped edge of lace in the pattern piece, place the seam allowance line in the centre of a scalloped edge dip for the overbust seam. v Also label left and right, right and wrong sides of each panel immediately after cutting.
Step 2 | Lockstitch Machine v Lay overbust seams of the centre front and side cups together, ensure the dips in the scalloped edges line up. v Sew right-sides together, 5mm seam allowance, ease around the curve.
Step 3 | Tape Machine
v Tape overbust seam of each cup.
Step 4 | Lockstitch Machine v v v v
v v v v v
Turn under 5mm seam allowance around each cup and on a long stitch length lockstitch this around cup edge under. Cut a length of rigid tape to 4cm. Lockstitch right-side of tape onto the wrong-side of the centre front cup, 2.5cm below the point of the centre front. Place the other end of the tape onto the other cup, again right-sight of tape onto wrong-side of cup. Make the distance between the two cups 1.5cm and tale care to line up exactly the tape with the scalloped edges on each cup to ensure it’s straight. (This takes time.) Lockstitch this into place and then cut off excess tape from inside the second cup, not too close to stitching. Next cut 4 lengths of wing elastic to 25cm. Place the right-side of the elastic to the wrong-side of the underarm point of the cup. (Opposite to centre front.) Line this up straight with the scalloped edge and stitch the width of the elastic to secure. Repeat for the other cup. Place the elastic 2.5cm further around the cup from the previous elastic’s bottom edge, placing the cup in the curved shape it will be in once the wire is in place lay the elastic right-side against wrong-side of lace. Angle the elastic to the position of a normal underband. Stitch this into place. Repeat for the other side, take care to match the angle the same by layering the lace and elastics on top of each other to ensure everything is identical before stitching. (This will be most likely needed to be unpicked and re-done as the elastics easily slip while being put into the machine.)
Step 5 | Wire Casing Machine v Tape the around cup on each side, ensuring the elastics and tapes remain straight whilst feeding through the machine. Rightside of garment face-up in machine, line up the edge of the garment with the edge of the wire casing as this will make it look untidy if they are even slightly out either way. Don’t pull on the fabric as it feeds through as this fabric is stretchy and can easily stretch out of shape differently on each up making them different sizes once the wire casing is secured. Bra Straps v Cut one length of strap elastic to 60cm. v Neaten up the wire casing at the centre front point on each cup and then unpick the wire casing down to 1cm inside the lace, place the right-side of the strap elasitc to the wrong-side of the lace, sandwiching it between the lace and wire casing. Take care to line the wire casing and elastic up perfectly as they are the same width and the wire casing shouldn’t peak out of either side othe strapping. Sew a tab close to the top edge of the lace to secure and a second one 3mm further onto the lace to secure. v Cut off excess wire casing at the back. v Twist the length of strap elastic to produce a halterneck and repeat the process of securing it to the other centre front. Take care not to get it twisted.
Hook (Right) and Eye (Left) v Measure 21cm from the top edges of each wing elastics and mark these points. Place these points markings toegther with the top wing elastic ontop of the underband wing elastic. Lockstitch these two lengths together at the 21cm markings. v Cut off excess elastic. v Repeat on the other wing. v Cut a 2cm width of hook and eye tape ensuring the hook and eye are centralised within the 2cm. (This will most likely involve cutting off the first hook or eye on a length of tape.) v Use a zipper foot. v Place left, Back Panel of garment between the two flaps on the eye tape, eyes on right-side of garment (face-out). v Sew one straight line down the tape to secure 2mm away from edge. v Place garment between two flaps on the hook tape, hooks on the wrong-side of garment (face-in). v Sew hooks face-up on machine. v Add any beads or embellishement as desired.