HANG ART LIKE A PROFESSIONAL Believe it or not, there is an art to hanging pictures. Guessing and doing things by eye may seem like a good idea, but in reality, results are much better if you follow a few simple rules. Generally, in galleries and museums, works look good due to the consideration of space and objects around them, and the height they are displayed at. This applies to groups of works also.
TIPS:
Get together with a hanging buddy and work out where the picture/s look best, bearing in mind access… Will it fit through the doors, up the stairs or around the corner? Can you carry it alone? Will the wall bear the weight? Is it near a fire, sunny window, air-conditioning outlet? Cut out a paper template the same size as your picture/s and stick to the wall - this is particularly useful for complex ‘salon’ hangs.
Good lighting also helps, but a mathematically consistent hang will always be more pleasing to the eye than poorly curated placement. Additionally, there are some do’s and don’ts which make a big difference with keeping you and your pictures safe from falling, warping, fading and failing. I have installed over 200 exhibitions over the past ten years and curated over thirty shows nationally and internationally in private and public museums, galleries and art fairs. I hold a Bachelor of Fine Arts from the National Art School and a Masters in Cultural Materials Conservation from the University of Melbourne, specialising in the care and restoration of paintings.
1500 mm
I can hang just about anything, from taxidermy, family photos and sports memorabilia to mirrors, paintings, works on paper and ethnographic artefacts! What follows is a simple guide to hanging like a professional, if you find this all a bit overwhelming, feel free to ask me to do it for you, it could save your sanity! Cash Brown 2015
Floorline Here is an example of three very different artworks hung harmoniously using a 1500 mm centreline. Note how the width of the central piece dictates the distance of adjacent works.
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THE PICTURE
MEASURING
The back of your picture will ideally have a hanging device, most usually ‘D’- rings with a wire or cord running between them.
STEP 1:
If it has screw eye hooks or staples, replace with ‘D’-rings, making sure you pre-drill holes in the wood, at least 10 cm from the top of the frame, using a fine drill bit to prevent splitting the frame or stretcher. If it has loose, rusted or frayed wire, replace it with proper hanging wire or cord.
a) Measure the overall height of your picture, divide this number by two and write it down. b) Then deduct the distance between the ‘D’ rings and the top of the frame, or the centre of the hanging wire when stretched and top of the frame. c) Then add 1500 mm. d) This will give you the correct height for your screws.
Unless the picture is small and light (under 4 kg), hanging from the ‘D’ rings is preferable to hanging from the wire or cord. There are good reasons for this: 1) You won’t ever have to straighten the picture 2) It’s safer and stronger than hanging from a wire or cord – especially for works behind glass! 3) The picture will be more flush with the wall and not lean out at the top 4) Two points of failure instead of one – if one of your screws comes out or your plaster crumbles, your picture will not crash! 5) Frames can warp if hung using one point from a wire due to strain pulling the wood out of shape. I also like to add felt spots (sold as self-adhesive floor protectors at hardware stores) to prevent scratching the wall and allow some air circulation behind the picture to lessen chances of mould growth. THE POSITION
Generally people hang artwork too high, or at inconsistent heights which looks messy and unprofessional. A general rule of thumb is to have EVERYTHING on your walls hanging with a centreline of 1500 mm from the floor, including mirrors, clocks family snaps etc.
STEP 2: a) Measure the width of your wall if you want to centre your picture/s b) If using a central hanging point from the wire, simply half the width, and plot the height calculated earlier. c) If hanging from ‘D’-rings, measure the width of your picture between the centre of ‘D’ -rings. d) Halve this number and subtract from half the width of the wall, this gives you the distance from the edge of the wall.
TIPS: Always measure both sides of the picture, sometimes ‘D’ rings are unevenly placed, and remember to calculate heights in reverse as you turn the picture around to hang it Measure twice – drill once! Use a spirit level to check your results, floors can be uneven
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SELECTING THE RIGHT HARDWARE
OVERVIEW
You don’t need special hooks or picture hanging kits to hang. Simple screws and wall plugs will suffice depending on the type of wall and the weight of your picture.
Halve distance from edge of wall minus half distance between ‘D’ rings
Halve distance from edge of wall for wire hang
1500 mm centre line
Height of picture, divide by two minus distance from wire ring to top of picture plus 1500 mm
Floorline
You will need wall plugs with corresponding size masonry drill bit and screws. The size of plugs and screws depends on the overall weight and size of the picture, but generally I use 7mm x 35 mm green outdoor use wall plugs and 35 mm galvanised Philips head screws.
Distance between ‘D’ rings
Height of picture divide by two minus distance from ‘D’ ring to top of picture plus 1500 mm
Masonry walls
Height of picture divide by two minus distance from ‘D’ ring to top of picture plus 1500 mm
TIPS: If your wall is crumbly, make an ‘X’ with masking tape over the spot to be drilled, and remove carefully after you have made your hole Stick an envelope below where you are about to drill to collect the dust Make sure your hole is straight and level Leave the plug hanging out of the wall a couple of mm to make it easy to remove later Vacuum out the dust in the hole rather than blowing it
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Plasterboard / cement fibre /wood panel walls Depending on the weight of a picture, I use either chipboard screws directly into the wall for lighter works, and for heavier works in plasterboard, these wonderful WallMate™ Plasterboard Anchors, which come in different packs depending on the weight load.
Cash Brown & Co. Fine art conservation and collection management
Based on the Mornington Peninsular, Cash & Co. now offer a range of services dedicated to the presentation and care of fine art. With over 15 years of experience working with museums and galleries nationally and internationally, Cash and her team can professionally install artworks in domestic, corporate and museum environments. Moving? Let us uninstall, pack, arrange professional transport and correct storage, unpack and reinstall your collection to museum standards. Building? Consult with us on environmental parameters and the latest technical advice on creating the ideal home for your collection.
TIPS: Check for wall studs prior to drilling as you can use a straight screw without the WallMate™ if there is a wood stud behind the plasterboard Screws can be very gently tapped with a hammer in any direction a mm or so if your placement is not spot on
Need advice on collecting? Cash is also an experienced art consultant, with a diverse range of contacts throughout the commercial gallery and secondary market sector nationally and internationally. Damaged artwork? Our conservation services can restore paintings at our Mornington Peninsular studio, or perform remedial treatments on larger works on site. Pickup and delivery service is available.
CLEANING AND CARE Regular inspection and correct cleaning of artworks can save them from accidental damage caused by mould, insects, high or low humidity and high light levels. Use a soft, wide hake brush to regularly remove dust from front and back of frames, paintings and glass. When cleaning glass and Perspex, do not spray directly onto the glazing, always spray onto a soft microfiber cloth before wiping. If your work is damaged by insects, mould, time, the environment or accidental causes, call a conservator.
Before treatment
After treatment
M: 0411132490 E: cashbrown@iinet.net.au W: cashbrownandco.net
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