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2018

by Carl F. Bucherer

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WELCOME

“At Carl F. Bucherer we never forget where we came from and for us it all began in Lucerne. In 1888, one remarkable man, Carl Friedrich Bucherer, opened his first shop” SASCHA MOERI CEO, CARL F. BUCHERER n our new advertising campaign, a confident young traveller sets off to explore the world from his native city of Lucerne. He doesn’t completely leave home behind, however, but takes a little piece of it with him in the form of his precious Manero Flyback watch. While we see spectacular shots of the world, the timepiece is a constant reminder of his roots and, ultimately, brings him back home. At Carl F. Bucherer we never forget where we came from and for us it all began in Lucerne. In 1888, one remarkable man, Carl Friedrich Bucherer, opened his shop selling watches and jewellery – the first in the city. His sons Ernst and Carl Eduard Bucherer travelled the world, before they, too, returned to their roots in Lucerne to help their parents develop what has become a global business. In celebration of Carl F. Bucherer’s 130th anniversary, we opened our new dedicated boutique in one of Lucerne’s elegant, historic buildings last summer. With subtle touches of gold, set against the cosmopolitan backdrop of the city, the boutique’s minimalistic Baroque design tells its own story of our heritage – one that global brand ambassador Li Bingbing enjoyed on her visit to help us celebrate. It is fitting, then, that this edition of 1888 is dedicated to Heritage. We meet people and organisations who, like us, haven’t forgotten their origins, who build on tradition – and understand how brands with history must also embrace innovation. Our cover feature focuses on book collecting – specifically the stories of Sherlock Holmes, who recently celebrated a landmark anniversary of his own. Like Carl F. Bucherer watches, these precious tomes are heirlooms that can be touched, enjoyed and passed on as a legacy to be treasured. Enjoy the 1888 magazine by Carl F. Bucherer.

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You can’t get more privacy. But everyone knows your name. In SWISS First we greet you by name. Because here it’s all about you and your needs.

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CONTENTS

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Exquisite falcon portraiture in the UAE and the story of Fabergé’s Imperial Eggs

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Blogger Blake Scott on the value of heritage in social media Why Sherlock Holmes is still piping hot 125 years on Tradition and innovation in Spanish wine architecture

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Carl F. Bucherer’s thrilling new Manero Flyback campaign Exploring the 19th-century setting of Carl Friedrich Bucherer’s very first shop Li Bingbing visits Lucerne for the opening of the new boutique Expert watchmaker Kurt Allemann talks chronographs

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A collaboration that celebrates and supports charity Manta Trust How a vintage Carl F. Bucherer timepiece holds a crucial clue in thriller Atomic Blonde We reveal the Hotel of the Year 2018, plus The Directory Turn Back Time: 130 Years

How the National Geographic Society was created in 1888 Old art, new tricks: we meet contemporary Chinese calligraphers revisiting the past

© Ink. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the prior written permission of the copyright holder. All prices and data are correct at the time of publication. Opinions expressed are not necessarily those of Carl F. Bucherer, and Carl F. Bucherer does not accept responsibility for advertising content. Any pictures or transparencies supplied are at the owner’s risk.

Editor Nicola Rayner

Production Controller Antonia Ferraro

Associate Editors Omer Ali & Lydia Polzer

Prepress KFR Repro

Carl F. Bucherer Editor Yumy Pham

Editorial Director Kerstin Zumstein

Art Director Jonny Hughes

Design Director Jamie Trendall

Senior Designer Sylwia Szyszka

Chief Operating & Financial Officer Jim Campbell

Picture Research Tamsan Barratt

Ink Chief Executives Michael Keating & Simon Leslie

Subeditor Laurent Gardré Translation Louise Barnett Cover Photography Antosh Sergiew

Published on behalf of Carl F. Bucherer by Ink, Blackburn House, Blackburn Road, London NW6 1AW, ink-global.com 1888 The Heritage Issue

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Clockwise from below The cover features a magnifying glass belonging to Roger Johnson, editor of The Sherlock Holmes Journal; Johnson and his wife, Jean Upton, collect Holmes memorabilia; cover photographer Antosh Sergiew at work; this magnifying glass is almost 100; Upton (as Holmes) on the television set of 221B Baker Street

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LOOKING BACK: THE MAKING OF THE COVER The Sherlock Holmes Society’s Roger Johnson and his wife, Jean Upton, loaned us a special magnifying glass for the shoot

JONNY HUGHES

In an issue celebrating Heritage, a magnifying glass struck us as the perfect item through which to examine the past – not least for its close association with the star of our cover story, Sherlock Holmes. Photographer Antosh Sergiew is meticulous about still-life images, and particularly obsessed with light and texture, as you can see from the way the light catches on the frame and the gilt pages of the Victorian tome on the cover. For the photo shoot in London, we borrowed a magnifying glass from Roger Johnson of the Sherlock Holmes Society, who won it as a prize in an ITV Crime Thriller Club quiz. “There are 60 original Sherlock Holmes stories written by Arthur Conan Doyle, and magnifying glasses are referred to specifically in 20,” says Johnson of the great detective’s famous prop. In the Victorian era, magnifying glasses were more common. “But Holmes carried one around with him – at least one – because in A Scandal in Bohemia Watson refers to ‘one of his own high-power lenses’. It was a scientific instrument for him.” Johnson and his wife, Jean Upton, have a modest collection themselves, including a Pierre Cardin glass given to Johnson on a trip to the Reichenbach Falls, as well as one accidentally purloined by Upton on a tour of the 221B Baker Street set at the Granada Television Studios in the 1980s, where she met Jeremy Brett, one of the most famous on-screen Sherlocks. “I never said anything about it until many years later, when Roger and I became friends with Michael Cox, the original producer of the series, and we told him,” she says. “He laughed like a drain.”

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IN FINE FEATHER Tariq Dajani photographs falcons to connect with his heritage in the Middle East Unless you’re lucky enough to have witnessed falcons diving through the sky, many of us will only have seen these beautiful hunting birds on wildlife documentaries. So to see them photographed in a studio setting is an opportunity to examine them close up, and perhaps even to divine their characters. “I adopted a very old-fashioned approach,” says Tariq Dajani of his series Saqr, the Hunting Falcon, explaining why he chose portraiture. After spending his formative years studying in Europe, Dajani first started to photograph Arabian horses as a way of reconnecting with his heritage in the Middle East, before he turned his lens on falcons, another well-known symbol of Bedouin heritage. Among the most striking of his subjects are white gyr falcons. “Their wealthy owners would only have the very best of the best, so they are exquisite specimens,” says Dajani, who has photographed birds belonging to ruling families, although he won’t name names. His falcon series has been very successful – exhibiting in Jordan and the UAE, with the limited-edition prints still in demand – and his latest work also has its roots in the past. “I am using a printing technique based on an 1870s technology – photogravure,” he says. “I very much like the old masters, the old ways of presenting work.” tariqdajani.com

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TREASURES OF THE TSARS From 1885 to 1916, Russia’s tsars celebrated Easter with incomparable jewelled gifts

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They were the world’s most indulgent Easter eggs. Over three decades, 50 Imperial Eggs were created for the Russian royal family by jeweller Peter Carl Fabergé. The tradition began as an Easter gift from Tsar Alexander III to his wife, Maria Feodorovna, in 1885, and was continued by his son Nicholas II, who would present two each year – one for his mother, the dowager Maria, and a second for his wife, Alexandra. An accomplished goldsmith, Peter Carl Fabergé transformed his father’s jewellery concern and was appointed official goldsmith to the Russian Imperial Court. After 1885, Fabergé would keep the eggs’ contents secret; the Lilies of the Valley Egg of 1898 (pictured), celebrating Alexandra’s favourite flower, contains miniatures of the tsar and their two eldest daughters. After the Russian Revolution in 1917, the ornate eggs were either sold off or destroyed. The whereabouts of 43 are known – one turned up five years ago, in the kitchen of a US scrap-metal dealer – but the pre-eminent public repository for these little wonders is the Kremlin Armoury. One of Moscow’s oldest museums, it holds 10 Imperial Eggs – the most in any single collection. kreml.ru

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blakescott_

like : 6018 Arrived in Luzern with @carlfbucherer to celebrate the grand opening of their ďŹ rst boutique!

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OPINION

“If a brand has heritage it makes the storytelling on social media a lot easier – it’s all about authenticity, and that’s the case with Carl F. Bucherer” BLAKE SCOTT

y line of work started around four years ago as a hobby. It was something that was a pure passion, that came from my love of fashion and menswear. Instagram was in its early stages back then. I began to take photographs with my girlfriend, now my fiancée, and people gravitated to them. The blog came first, with Instagram following later. I look for brands that have heritage. It makes the storytelling a lot easier and I like to work with brands that know who they are. I don’t work with many – I’m very specific about who I work with. Brands such as Carl F. Bucherer, brands with heritage, prefer quality over quantity. Successful social media posts are about authenticity, too. You shouldn’t just post anything. If it’s an organic post, and you really believe in the brand you’re working with, it makes the story a lot easier. That’s the case with Carl F. Bucherer – I started working with them in 2016. The website tells a story. It has a sense of history. You can see pictures of Lucerne where it all began. I’ve found some brands might have heritage but they need to work to develop a sense of it. My posts tend to be simple and classic. That’s the way I work. Some influencers might work with 10 brands a week and they might be posting five or six times a day, but if I’m going to capture an amazing image and tell a story about where my day has gone, or where the week ahead is going to take me, it’s more authentic, it’s more organic. Again, it’s about quality over quantity.

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BLAKE SCOTT IS A MENSWEAR BLOGGER, BASED IN LA. WITH 480,000 INSTAGRAM FOLLOWERS, HE IS THE WEST COAST’S LEADING INFLUENCER AND CARL F. BUCHERER’S FIRST DIGITAL BRAND AMBASSADOR

In the menswear industry, there are not very many of us – in the States I’m one of 10 male influencers doing this as a full-time job with more than 100,000 followers. In the women’s realm, it’s a little different – there are tonnes of women doing it – but the male demographic is very, very new. I can’t really do fast fashion. It doesn’t work so well for menswear. I have to show the heritage, I have to show the story, put the watch to use. For a diver’s watch, take it into the water; show that it’s practical, that you can use it. There are so many European brands that have gone from generation to generation, but they are not known because they’re not on social media. Over the years, I’ve seen brands who did not believe in social media who are now on board – and other brands who have come out of nowhere because they’ve had good marketing strategies on social media. Now people know what social media is. For me, the main benefit of it is brand awareness – you can reach so many more people through social media than you would on a billboard. Influencers everywhere are generating up to two million impressions a week. Social media speaks to different generations. You have kids in their teens all the way up to my parents on social media now, be it Instagram, Facebook or Twitter. They are learning at the same time – lots of times the parents want to know what their children are looking at and vice versa. It sparks conversations between generations.

ILLUSTRATION PETER JAMES FIELD

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LI BINGBING AND C A R L F. B U C H E R E R

MADE OF LUCERNE

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Detective work Sherlock Holmes is still hot property 125 years after he mysteriously vanished at Switzerland’s Reichenbach Falls. We meet the keen-eyed collectors on the trail of the world’s most famous sleuth

TEXT Peter Watts PHOTOGRAPHY Julian Anderson

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herlock Holmes is one of the most quintessentially English characters ever created, but he also has a universal appeal that extends beyond the borders of the United Kingdom. That means the books written by Arthur Conan Doyle – including the first collection of Holmes stories, The Adventures of Sherlock Holmes, which was published in 1892 – remain popular with readers and book collectors all over the world. “We get a lot of customers from overseas,” says Sammy Jay of London’s Peter Harrington Rare Books. “They go to Baker Street and then come to a bookshop to buy a souvenir.” The international popularity of Holmes is partly down to timing. Conan Doyle’s second Holmes story, The Sign of the Four, was published simultaneously in Britain and the US in the February 1890 edition of Lippincott’s Monthly Magazine, and Americans were immediately as gripped as the British. With Holmes, Doyle had created something new – a detective who solved crimes using logic and reason. But, as Holmes was cold, clever and a bit of a snob, Doyle chose to tell the story through the warmer eyes of Dr Watson, the ultimate sympathetic narrator. That combination helped Holmes take over the world. The first Sherlock Holmes society met in America in 1934 – one day before the inaugural meeting of the first UK society – and for a while the biggest society was in Japan. These days there are clubs on every continent, but the largest is the Sherlock Holmes Society of London. The society publishes a journal and regularly visits Switzerland’s Reichenbach Falls, where Holmes plunged seemingly to his death in The Final Problem, which celebrates its 125th birthday this year.

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“We’ve been to Switzerland seven times,” says the society’s Roger Johnson, who met his American wife Jean Upton through a shared love of Holmes. “I’ve been four times. The head of the Swiss tourist office in the UK said jokingly, ‘Of course, you will be in Victorian costume.’ And that’s what happened. It has since been a tradition that we dress up for the occasion.” Holmes fans can enter the collecting market at different levels, depending on pockets and personal interests. Johnson and Upton, for instance, collect scripts and programmes for stage productions. For many collectors, one attraction is the sheer readability of the stories. These are books that can be enjoyed in one sitting but also have recognised literary merit. “Conan Doyle is probably our second or third most popular author after Ian Fleming, and when I say Conan Doyle, I really mean Sherlock Holmes,” says Jon Gilbert

Previous page Sidney Paget’s drawing of Sherlock Holmes’s struggle to the death at the Reichenbach Falls appeared with story The Final Problem in 1893

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Left Writer Arthur Conan Doyle pictured in 1920, 10 years before his death aged 71

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“A rare book can be held, it can be read, it can even be smelled – and it can then be passed on to later generations as a treasure, an heirloom” PAGE TURNERS

Andrew McGeachin, managing director at Sotheran’s

Jon Gilbert, Adrian Harrington Rare Books

“One of the nicest things we had was a copy of Adventures signed by Conan Doyle and inscribed to his wife. That sort of association is great. Some collectors go to the very beginning and want copies of The Strand, where the stories first appeared, but it takes up a lot of room on your shelves. Everybody wants things in the nicest condition possible. We can very easily sell copies of first editions, and if we get signed ones, all the better. Manuscripts are harder to sell. They tend to be priced at a large premium and there aren’t that many collectors prepared to dig that deep.” sotherans.co.uk

“There are two incredibly serious collectors in the States, and we have institutions in the US and Canada who are building Conan Doyle archives. You’re looking at books that survived more than a century, two world wars and houses without central heating. We are aware that a lot of books we sell won’t be read but that’s what makes them rare. We had one of Conan Doyle’s own copies of The Hound of the Baskervilles. That’s a major rarity as they don’t seem to turn up signed; he gave it to his son and then it was sold in the 1960s. We had that 15 years ago – now it’s probably worth £15,000.” harringtonbooks.co.uk

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“The important thing is to collect things that give you pleasure: you can collect Conan Doyle simply because you enjoy the stories”

Roger Johnson, The Sherlock Holmes Society of London

Sammy Jay, Peter Harrington Rare Books

Laura Walker, curator at the British Library

“My wife and I met through Sherlock Holmes and she brought her collection with her from the United States. We have three first editions – I once picked up a first edition of The Valley of Fear at a book fair for £3, which astounded me then and still does now. My interest is theatre productions so I have scripts from various eras and also a lot of programmes. I have one from the first authorised stage production, and also the first appearance of Holmes and Watson on stage.” The Sherlock Holmes Miscellany by Roger Johnson & Jean Upton is published by The History Press, thehistorypress.co.uk

“TV series keep coming and these affect the rare book market quite strongly so buying is tough – it’s hard to find books in very good condition. For serious rarities like A Study in Scarlet, copies can go into six figures. Later Conan Doyle works have more manageable prices. We always try to get the best copies because they hold their value, shoddy copies aren’t very good purchases. We have the complete works of Conan Doyle that came out in 1930, a limited edition of 760 signed by Conan Doyle. It was issued after he died so it’s in that very odd category of posthumous signed limited edition.” peterharrington.co.uk

“Conan Doyle is one of the most well-known and popular British writers, along with the likes of Dickens and Agatha Christie. We have the original drafts of two Sherlock Holmes short stories – The Adventure of the Missing Three-Quarter and The Adventure of the Retired Colourman – which are really special parts of the collection. We also have a lot of letters and diaries, and information related to Conan Doyle’s education and his interest in spiritualism. Researchers use them as they broaden their understanding of the author as you can see where inspiration has come from, and how ideas and characters have developed.” bl.uk

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From top to bottom Roger Johnson bought his first edition of The Valley of Fear at a book fair for £3; the author’s signature adds value to the book, especially if it is dedicated to someone he knew well

of rare booksellers Adrian Harrington. “He has continued in popularity because of films and TV shows. There seems to be a Holmes rejuvenation every decade. You also get the books repackaged, and occasionally a new novel is approved by the estate, most recently by Anthony Horowitz, so you get renewed interest.” People collect books for many reasons, including the increased appeal of owning these rare and often beautiful physical objects in an age of digital media: a rare book can be held, it can be opened, it can be read, it can even be smelled – and it can then be passed on to later generations as a family treasure, an heirloom that embodies the interests, tastes, heritage and values of the original owner. Rare books remain a good investment, with dealers reporting a strong market with sufficient people interested in books who have the disposable income to collect first editions. Among the rarest Holmes books are copies of The Hound of the Baskervilles that come with dust jackets, of which only three are known to exist. Gilbert saw one 20 years ago that sold for £80,000, and he estimates it would now be worth £250,000. Other editions that might fetch six figures are fine copies of the first novel featuring the detective, A Study in Scarlet. “You’re not looking at a book, you are looking at an exceptionally

rare artefact,” says Gilbert. “If 50,000 were published but only three survive it’s an incredible achievement.” The Adventures of Sherlock Holmes was a collection of 12 stories that had originally been published in The Strand Magazine – bound copies of The Strand also fetch high prices among collectors. Adventures came in an unforgiving pale blue cloth with The Strand logo on the cover. Although published in large numbers, it’s hard to find good editions as the books were well read. “There is a large private collection in the US that has the only known copies with jackets of Adventures,” says Gilbert. “The reason jackets don’t survive is the binding is more attractive. They have bright gilt edges. The jackets were plain with a printed title. They weren’t meant to be kept – they were simply to protect copies when they were being distributed, and people were employed to remove the jackets as they unpacked them. I imagine this was a copy that never got sold.” It seems strange to think that a book may be more valuable because nobody at the time wanted it, but now everybody is interested Sherlock Holmes. “Each collector has their own parameters and these can change,” says Andrew McGeachin, managing director at Sotheran’s. “But the important thing is to collect the things that give you pleasure. Conan Doyle is somebody you can collect without it being an academic or intellectual undertaking, it can be done for fun simply because you enjoy the stories.”

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Label makers As more historic vineyards turn to “starchitects� to help define their brands, we uncover the background behind the boom in beautiful wineries TEXT Omer Ali

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hrouded in mist, the hillside could almost be something from a Japanese print. As the haze begins to clear, an unexpected, angular shape emerges from the ridge. This is the Valdemonjas winery, which projects from its perch amid the vineyards of northern Spain and was deliberately designed to stand out in the rolling landscape of Ribera del Duero. While we’ve all become used to wine culture, you might not associate it with eye-catching design, but Spain alone boasts wineries by such internationally renowned architects as Santiago Calatrava, Frank Gehry and Zaha Hadid. And vineyards as far afield as Santiago de Chile, California’s Napa Valley and the Douro in Portugal all boast world-beating buildings, designed to fit in with a winery’s all-important heritage. Valdemonjas’s building was completed two years ago by architects Ana Agag and Silvia Paredes for the familyrun concern, which needed a new space to produce its wines and attract visitors. Despite its apparently anachronistic look, the architects insist their building was intended to complement the countryside. “We were captivated at first sight with the landscape, its topography and the quality of the vineyards,” they say. “Integration into the existing landscape was one of our main goals.” While Valdemonjas’s public spaces for wine-tasting above ground are notably futuristic, the area below where the wine is made is more traditional and conveys the rich history of winemaking. The Barrel Hall, where the wine is initially aged, has a vaulted brick ceiling to maintain a constant temperature and high humidity, qualities valued for centuries in wineries. The building is such a success, at the end of 2016 it was named a winner in the prestigious Architizer A+ Awards. Like Agag and Paredes’ building for Valdemonjas, Foster + Partners’ 2010 building for the Faustino Group some two and a half hours’ drive to the north, is a signature building – intended both as a calling card for the brand, but also an impressive experience for visitors, expert oenophiles or not. “Bodegas Portia was our first winery, so we had no preconceptions about how it should

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“This is not architecture as fashion so much as identity – it is also architecture as tourism magnet”

PACOSANTAMARIA, NIGEL YOUNG/FOSTER + PARTNERS

work,” says Lord Foster, whose firm has since produced a new winery for the historic Château Margaux estate in Bordeaux. “It was an opportunity to start from first principles – to examine the different stages of wine production and to try to create the ideal conditions for them to unfold.” A raised public gallery at the heart of the winery allows visitors to enjoy elevated views of the different processes: the three arms of the 12,500m2 concrete structure each house a different stage of production: fermentation, ageing in oak barrels, and ageing in bottles. “Materials that draw on the region’s winemaking traditions, with public spaces open to the landscape, enhance the visitor experience,” Lord Foster says. In their book Wine by Design, Sean Stanwick and Loraine Fowlow trace the boom in winery architecture to the growth of wine tourism. “Wine and tourism are now becoming inextricably linked as wine clubs, foodie magazines and the wine tour explode in popularity,” they say. In the late 18th century, vineyards in Bordeaux discovered the marketing advantages of branding themselves as “châteaux”. “As wine production and public interest grew dramatically in the latter part of the 20th century, so did interest in the buildings that housed the wine… Vintners understand they must invest in the culture of the product and respond not only to the palette of the senses but also to our aesthetic palette by promoting the space of wine: a place of ambience, lifestyle, and architecture.”

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Previous pages At Valdemonjas, designed by architects Ana Agag and Silvia Paredes, photovoltaic panels provide power, and the slanted roof is used to collect and store rainwater; Raimat was founded in 1914 and named using the Catalan words raïm (“grapes”) and mà (“hand”) – adding a “t” for terra (“earth”)

Clockwise from top Spanish “starchitect” Santiago Calatrava designed the Ysios winery in the foothills of Spain’s Sierra de Cantabria mountains; harvested grapes can be deposited on the roof of Bodegas Portia by Foster + Partners; the old winery at Raimat was the first building in Spain to be made from reinforced concrete 1888 The Heritage Issue 25

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For the authors, the archetype of the link between winery and “starchitect” came with the Frank Gehrydesigned Marqués de Riscal vineyard in La Rioja 10 years ago. Inspired by elements of a wine bottle, the 3,300m2 complex includes a 43-room hotel, restaurant and even spa. “This is not architecture as fashion so much as identity – it is also architecture as tourism magnet.” The overworked Gehry is said to have been persuaded to take on the project when he and his business partner were given bottles of wine produced in their birth years. The closeness of this relationship harks back to historic ideas of patronage that have long existed with these prestige buildings. Founded in 1551, Codorníu is the oldest family business in Spain and is celebrated around the world for its cava – its Anna de Cordoníu range is the market leader in Spain. Now the owner of 11 wineries, the brand’s stunning headquarters in Sant Sadurní, near Barcelona, is known as the “Cathedral of Cava”. The building was commissioned in 1895 by Manuel Raventós, the founder of the modern company who had a flair for advertising. He brought on board Modernista architect Josep Puig i Cadafalch, who was mayor of Barcelona when he started work on the project in 1902. The pair had an exemplary client-architect relationship – as part of 2017’s celebration of the 150th anniversary of Puig i Cadafalch’s birth, Codorníu put on show the extensive correspondence between the two. At another of the Codorníu brand’s wineries, Raimat, in Lleida, north-eastern Spain, Raventós commissioned a beautiful, rose-tinted cellar from Joan Rubió i Bellver, another disciple of Gaudí. Seventy years later, Raimat was again at the forefront of building trends when Domingo Triay was commissioned to build a new wine cellar. Triay could be said to be at the vanguard of this prestige movement: in the early 1990s, he was again in demand – this time in California, where he honed his distinctive style of building into the hillside for the Artesa winery near Napa. At Raimat, his understated temple to wine features a refreshing wine “library”, where lucky guests get to taste the vineyard’s produce, overlooking Rubío i Bellver’s revolutionary masterpiece. To connoisseurs, these buildings are lasting testament to the indelible relationship between architect and winery – and it’s worth the pilgrimage. marquesderiscal.com, codorniu.com, raimat.com

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ROLL OUT THE BARRELS Clockwise from left Landscaping and the main hall at Codorníu, in Sant Sadurní, near Barcelona; architect Puig i Cadafalch used experimental techniques in his work to create an appropriate homage to the winemaker’s craft that is listed as a monument of national artistic importance; visitors can tour on a little train Codorníu’s 30km of tunnels used to house the wines

Having descended into the earth, it’s dark, cool and musty – ideal conditions for the tens of thousands of wine barrels stored here. We’re in the biggest cellar in Spain’s La Rioja, probably one of the best-known wine regions in the world. Bodegas Bilbaínas was founded in the prestigious winemaking town of Haro in 1859, and its cavernous cellars extend 3,400m2 underground. Oak barrels are piled against the tunnel walls and tower over us; the most common hold 225 litres – that’s 300 bottles – and the wine here is typically aged in American oak, to perfectly match the vineyard’s tempranillo grapes. Much of the secondary fermentation of wines around the world now takes place in giant stainless-steel

vessels, but wine will still be laid down in oak to impart the desired colour, tannin levels and flavours – typically vanilla, or spice. As well as American casks, barrels made in France and Eastern Europe are common. Oak barrels from different countries impart different flavours – American oak tends to be more intense than French, and imparts sweeter overtones – but the method of construction will have been familiar centuries ago. Split along the wood’s grain into strips, the “staves” are seasoned outdoors for at least 10 months. Traditionally, they are then heated over an open fire or treated with steam till they can be bent and held in place with galvanised steel hoops. The rest is left to time – and skill. bodegasbilbainas.com

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The world and all that is in it The National Geographic Society celebrates its 130th birthday in 2018. We explore how it all began for the renowned institution TEXT Nicola Rayner

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“The society didn’t just want to give lectures, it wanted to be part of the expeditions”

The National Geographic magazine, the society’s official journal for members, would change that, but not immediately. The inaugural issue in October 1888 was a sober affair that the founders hoped would become “an acceptable medium for the publication of results”. The society didn’t just want to give lectures about the world; it wanted to be part of the research expeditions themselves. The first field trip it sponsored was to the Mount St Elias region of Alaska – “a maze of mountains and glaciers no mapmaker had penetrated,” writes Mark Collins Jenkins in National Geographic 125 Years. “Because the organisation was practically penniless, Major Powell’s US Geological Survey authorised geologist Israel Russell to assemble a team of topographers. In 1890, the expedition sailed into Disenchantment Bay.” As the name might suggest, the team did not succeed in their aim, defeated by torrential rain and avalanches, but the expedition did lead to the discovery and naming of Mount Logan, Canada’s highest peak. Later exploration saw more success. Robert E Peary’s attempt to reach the North Pole in 1909 concluded controversially but the society’s support reveals its ambition early on. In its first fully fledged foray into archaeology, National Geographic also sponsored Hiram Bingham in his excavation of the “lost city of the Incas”, Machu Picchu. Of course, Bingham did not discover Machu Picchu – locals had long known about the “lost city” – but when his illustrated report was published in 1913, he drew the world’s attention to this now-iconic site. Bingham wasn’t a trained archaeologist but taking a punt on a dedicated enthusiast paid off then as it did decades later in 1961 when the society supported Jane Goodall in her chimpanzee studies in Tanzania. Goodall went on to record the first confirmed use of tools by

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n the cold, wet night of 13 January 1888, an auspicious year for new beginnings, 33 eminent men met at the Cosmos Club on Lafayette Square in Washington DC. They were there at the invitation of six of their party – two cartographers, two seafaring scientists, a celebrated Arctic explorer and one ordinary businessman who possessed, in his own words, “only the same general interest in the subject of geography that should be felt by every educated man”. “They were mostly field men,” writes the National Geographic Archives’ Renee Braden of the assembled group, “travelling the prairies, deserts, mountains, and seas of the Americas.” Among their number was Major John Wesley Powell, a one-armed Civil War veteran famous for the last great quest in the American West – his 1869 journey into the “Great Unknown” down the Green and Colorado rivers, including the first recorded passage by Europeans through the Grand Canyon. An oil painting by Stanley Meltzoff depicts the group as elderly 19th-century gents but it was artistic licence: most of them were much younger at the time. They were well-connected, though; nor was their aim modest, namely to “increase and diffuse geographic knowledge”. By the end of January 1888, the National Geographic Society was up and running. The Geographic, as it was affectionately dubbed, had a clubby atmosphere and its lectures in Washington DC were popular with the public, though word of them didn’t travel far beyond the capital.

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Previous pages Stanley Meltzoff’s oil painting depicts the original meeting of the National Geographic Society founders in 1888 Clockwise from above The American Mount Everest expedition pioneered a new route to the summit in 1963; Alexander Graham Bell helped save the society; Robert E Peary claimed to have reached the North Pole in 1909 Far left, from left to right The first magazine cover in October 1888; the yellow border appeared later

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Clockwise from right The National Geographic Society supported Jane Goodall in her chimpanzee studies in Tanzania; an emperor penguin, wearing a Crittercam, becomes an unwitting cameraman; Hiram Bingham introduced Machu Picchu to the world with the help of the National Geographic Society; the Great Sphinx and pyramids of Giza in 1938

another species – an important landmark in the study of animal behaviour. Since then the society has supported and documented everything from the decade of space exploration that led to the moon landing in 1969 – offering NASA the services of its finest photographers, while in return the astronauts took a National Geographic flag with them to the moon – to the discovery of the wreck of the Titanic by sea explorer Robert Ballard, which was announced from the society headquarters in 1985. National Geographic continues its work exploring and protecting the planet to this day, with the number of grants to scientists and conservationists exceeding 12,000 to date. Yet it is possible that none of this would have happened without the contribution of inventor Alexander Graham Bell. When the first president of the society, Gardiner Greene Hubbard, died in December 1897, Bell, his Scottish-born son-in-law, was seen as a natural, though somewhat unwilling, successor. At the time membership was foundering and it looked as if the almost

“The world and all that is in it is our theme, and if we can’t find anything to interest ordinary people in that subject we better shut up shop and become a strict scientific journal”

Above, from left to right Sharbat Gula was photographed by Steve McCurry in 1984 and has appeared on the cover of the National Geographic magazine three times; photographers from the society documented NASA’s space exploration that led to the moon landing in 1969

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decade-old society didn’t have much of a future. But Bell believed a membership chiefly comprising government scientists, who discouraged the “excessive use of picture and anecdote” in their lectures, was not broad enough for a truly national organisation. He urged magazine editor John Hyde to use pictures, “and plenty of them”, saying: “The world and all that is in it is our theme, and if we can’t find anything to interest ordinary people in that subject we better shut up shop and become a strict, technical, scientific journal for highclass geographers and geological experts.” Daunted by the task, Hyde resigned, but Bell’s own son-in-law, Gilbert Hovey Grosvenor, stepped up to the challenge, publishing every photograph he could lay his hands on. “In January 1905 he published 11 rare photographs, shot clandestinely by Russian explorers disguised as Tibetan monks, of the forbidden city of Lhasa,” says Collins Jenkins. “As a result, membership soared in 1905 from 3,256 to 11,479. Grosvenor had reached the turning point.” By the time Grosvenor retired in 1954, membership had soared to around two million. And the National Geographic continued to grow, branching out in the 1950s and 1960s into book publishing, producing its first world atlas and moving into television, too – all products that are instantly recognisable for their vivid yellow outline, which the magazine first used on its covers in 1910. Today the National Geographic continues to be synonymous with spectacular photography and pioneering reports. Many of its images are immediately recognisable. At a refugee camp in Pakistan in 1984, Steve McCurry took a series of photographs of a young Afghan girl with striking green eyes that so caught the imagination, he later spent 17 years trying to find her again. Sharbat Gula, now 45, holds a record for appearing three times on the cover of the magazine, most recently on the 125th anniversary issue of October 2013 looking out from that famous yellow rectangle, which has framed so many astonishing glimpses of our world. nationalgeographic.com

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The write side of history Traditionally revered above all other visual art forms in China, the ancient art of calligraphy is used by contemporary artists today as a way of re-examining the past TEXT Nancy Alsop PHOTOGRAPHY Ambrous Young

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tanding up for eight or nine hours in a row, it took Monika Lin 12 days to write the symbol of rice 10,000 times. Some observers said it looked as if she was actually planting rice. This was neat happenstance for Lin, who presented Tenthousand at San Francisco’s Performance Art Institute in 2012 and is at the forefront of a new generation of artists tackling contemporary issues using the traditional art of calligraphy. Though her performance piece had disparate inspirations, what brought them together was the use of this ancient Chinese writing system. Initially, the Shanghai-based artist had been asked to take part in an exhibition in her home city called Learning from the Literati, inspired by a group of scholars in Imperial China whose calligraphy, poetry and paintings were intended to reveal their cultivation and express their personal feelings. To Lin, this Literati tradition not only seemed elitist but it was also inherently sexist. “Women were not allowed to participate,” she says. “I quickly realised that calligraphy practised by a woman in the context of the Literati tradition highlighted gender issues – and the use of the word rice addressed elitist values and economics.” Lin chose the word rice to represent the peasants who laboured in the fields and were taxed on rice, but couldn’t afford to eat it. As for the number, 10,000 – or Yi Wan – is unique to Chinese and used in the same manner as “a million” elsewhere to mean a vast amount. It is also said to be the number of hours it takes to become an expert in any field. While creating the piece was backbreaking work, observers said the artist looked serene – a misreading she is philosophical about. “It was actually quite surprising to see myself on film,” she says. “I did look serene. The audience saw a very controlled exterior. My outward appearance belied my psychological and physical discomfort.” Lin is not alone in using calligraphy to address issues that are as pertinent in the modern world as they were in Imperial China. One of the world’s greatest living calligraphers, Wang Dongling, creates dramatic large-scale work exploring the heritage of the art form and the echoes of forbears down the centuries. Three of his works formed a central part of the exhibition Ink Art: Past as Present in Contemporary China, which opened at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New

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York in 2013. “Due to the quality of lines in Chinese calligraphy, its abstract quality and the mystery of Chinese characters, the resulting artistic expression in ink conveys the unique sensibility and charm of the East,” says Dongling, who is based in Hangzhou, China. “Work like this is usually created after having spent some time quietly emulating exemplary models from the past, as a continuation of that spirit.” In pursuit of that spirit, Beijing-based artist Xu Bing goes back to the source. “People say that I’m a contemporary artist, but in truth most of the things I’m involved with are anything but new. But what you find hidden in ‘old’ things can be some of the most essential and elemental things there are,” he says. Xu’s 1986 breakthrough work, Book from the Sky, was a monumental installation composed of books and scrolls printed with what appear to be traditional Chinese characters, but turn out to be illegible. It’s an idea he has returned to over and again. Almost a decade later, in 1993, Xu found himself living in New York; by then a respected artist, the issue of language cropped up as he negotiated his way around the city. “Living in a foreign country means inhabiting a region between two cultures. Language and communication become a direct problem,” he says. “You are a respected artist, yet in this linguistic context, you can be considered ‘illiterate’.” The resulting work was Square Word Calligraphy. At first glance, the performance appears to show him teaching Chinese characters. In fact it is a new way of composing the letters of English words into a square imitating the look of Chinese writing. Chinese viewers expect to be able to read Square Word Calligraphy but cannot. Western viewers are surprised to find they can. Nowhere is his quest to challenge fixed ways of thinking more explicit than in his creation of The Living Word, which sees the “bird” characters physically break free from their confines and take flight through the gallery space. As Xu says: “I’m pretty sure birds would not care for the dictionary description of themselves. They would definitely want to escape it and go back to nature. The brilliant colours of the installation are designed to deliver the feeling of a glittering fairy-tale world of magical transformations.”

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Previous pages Wang Dongling works on a giant calligraphic piece in Auckland, New Zealand Clockwise from left Monika Lin uses calligraphy to tackle contemporary issues; Xu Bing’s monumental Book from the Sky is filled with indecipherable glyphs that resemble traditional Chinese characters; Lin works on a piece in her studio; Xu Bing composes English words in Chinese style in Square Word Calligraphy

STROKES OF A BRUSH calligraphers. From then onwards, it is regarded as an art that embodies the calligrapher’s ideas, emotions, and individual creativity.” It is this period that is regarded as the golden age of calligraphy, its supreme status lying in the characters themselves, which do not simply record sounds but represent words themselves. Zhang continues: “In Imperial China, only those from privileged backgrounds had the chance to master this difficult written language.”   With the fall of the last dynasty of Imperial China, many intellectuals started to campaign for character simplification to help improve literacy. The Communist government implemented it in 1964 and today those with a higher education can read both traditional characters and simplified texts – knowledge which has contributed to China’s rapidly growing economy. vam.ac.uk

GETTY IMAGES, ALAMY

“Since written characters are not necessarily linked to pronunciation, from very early on, Chinese people understood that they may not understand each other when speaking, but they could communicate by writing,” explains Zhang Hongxing, a senior curator at London’s V&A museum. The very first Chinese characters were carved into bone and shells for divination, and later inscribed or cast into bronzes for ceremonial purposes, giving rise to the earliest script, Seal Script or zhuanshu. Those early methods would form the foundations of calligraphy.   But, explains Zhang, the art didn’t reach maturity until the fourth century. “It was the first time in Chinese history that those personal letters were revered by contemporaries, not just because they were beautiful, but because they were from the hand of individual

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Time travel Carl F. Bucherer’s 2016 Made of Lucerne campaign came from the London ad agency powerhouse Havas. Now Lucerne crosses the world – in the shape of the Manero Flyback

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palatial foyer two storeys high, with salvaged wood floors and an artfully rusted metal staircase: the London headquarters of the Havas ad agency would make a very attractive set for an updated British version of Mad Men. The company recently moved to a brand-new digital and media business hub in the heart of the British capital. Google and Universal Music are their neighbours, and they have many big global names on their client list – Lacoste, IBM and Jack Daniel’s are among them. Ben Mooge, executive creative partner at Havas, is a 21st-century Don Draper if you will. He is a fan of analogue watches. “We are so surrounded by technology all the time nowadays, but I can’t think of anything worse than wearing a smartwatch,” he says, pointing at his wrist. He wears his grandfather’s golden watch. “My dad has also given me his grandad’s watch to keep,” he says. So Mooge is happy to have been able to take on the current Manero Flyback ad campaign, having worked with Carl F. Bucherer for several years already. The new campaign takes its cue from the previous one, which ran under the motto “Made of Lucerne” and played on the uniqueness of Carl F. Bucherer’s home city. “Lucerne is an interesting place,” Mooge says. “It doesn’t feel like other Swiss cities to me. It is this unusual geographical intersection between lake, forest and mountains. There is art under the surface. It is a Catholic city in a mainly Protestant country.” He sees that individuality reflected in Carl F. Bucherer’s products. All these intangible idiosyncrasies combined with the city’s

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From top Imagery from the Manero Flyback campaign Havas has created for Carl F. Bucherer

THE MANERO FLYBACK Combining classic looks and savoir faire

progressive spirit and the company’s 130year heritage are essential elements of the Carl F. Bucherer brand and form the special ground from which distinctive watches are born. The current campaign focuses on these watches leaving their historical birthplace and travelling the world. Its visuals still focus on the idea of heritage and tradition – using elegant classical typefaces, Havas senior art director Dave Burn explains. “When you walk through Lucerne you get this sense of it being a very classical place with all these Baroque buildings and lots of gilding – and the Manero Flyback reflects that, especially the rose gold timepiece,” Burn says. “We’ve tried to bring that into the look of the campaign using very classical typefaces for the writing.” The Manero Flyback was chosen for the campaign as it exemplifies the brand’s cur-

rent spirit, with its smooth one-button flyback function and classic dial face. The text on the ads sits alongside imagery of a young, confident traveller exploring the world, adding the notion of journey and motion. “The characteristics of the Flyback make it feel very much like it does come from Lucerne,” Burn says. “And then you have that on your wrist and take it everywhere you go.” The campaign is also shot from wrist level, as if showing the watch’s point of view as it travels through paddy fields and experiences a desert sunrise. Viewers accompany the fictional traveller as he immerses himself in a multitude of exciting experiences – and all the while his Manero Flyback watch reminds him of his Lucerne roots, eventually bringing him back to his home city. With the line “Wherever time takes you, Lucerne travels with you”, the campaign serves as an allegory for the transience of modern life – for people travelling for work or leisure, wherever they go, they take a bit of their home with them, yet stay true to their roots. The campaign has now been launched, but Havas sees potential for continuing their collaboration with Carl F. Bucherer, and for the campaign to be expanded in the future to include content for social media channels. For Mooge, heritage is a key strength of Carl F. Bucherer: “Brands that succeed today understand that, especially in a global market, a sense of place is important to get to the truth of a product, to tell its authentic story.” carl-f-bucherer.com

Softness and precision come together in the timelessly elegant Manero Flyback watch for the discerning modern gentleman with a love of refined technology. The chronograph is powered by the CFB 1970 caliber. In addition, the watch features the sophisticated flyback function, which allows the stop hands to be reset and restarted with just one push of a button. The precise contours of the case, in stainless steel or rose gold, contrast with the soft curves of the bezel. The four colour options for the dial include blue-grey, silver and black (as pictured below) and champagne (on page 65).

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Close to clients since 1856.

Credit Suisse has been building private banking partnerships for generations, working closely with clients to help them achieve their goals.

credit-suisse.com &RS\ULJKWk&UHGLW6XLVVH*URXS$*DQGRULWVDIÆ&#x;OLDWHV$OOULJKWVUHVHUYHG

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Golden age The late 19th century was a time of transformation. We explore the era that saw Carl Friedrich Bucherer open his first shop in Lucerne n the era known as La Belle Époque, the world was changing. The period from the end of the Franco-Prussian War in 1871 until the outbreak of World War I in 1914 was a time of peace, prosperity and thriving artistry. It was also a time of industrial progress. Settlers flocked to Lucerne, at Switzerland’s heart, from the surrounding areas. From 1850 to 1913, the population of the city quadrupled. Encircled by mountains, Lucerne’s natural beauty also made it popular with tourists. It was the era of grand tours and sumptuous new hotels. The Grand Hotel National overlooking Lake Lucerne opened its doors in 1870. With such an alluring place

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to stay, aristocrats from France, Russia and Britain came to admire the city’s exquisite architecture, explore Lake Lucerne by paddle steamer and take the fresh mountain air. And how better to scale Mount Pilatus than the steepest cog railway in the world? The Pilatus railway made its inaugural run on 17 August 1888. The same propitious year marked the beginning of a new age in Swiss watch history. On Lucerne’s Falkenplatz, Carl Friedrich Bucherer and his wife Luise opened the city’s first shop selling watches and jewellery. Pocket watches were just becoming a must-have accessory for men, while the first batches of wristwatches were already in the development stage. The scene was set – and the timing was perfect.

Above Lucerne’s rich history and natural beauty have attracted visitors since the late 1800s, a time of change and innovation in the city and worldwide

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A touch of gold Carl F. Bucherer celebrates its roots with a dedicated boutique in its Lucerne home, a new timepiece and a visit from a global superstar istory repeats itself, as the saying goes. In 1888, Carl Friedrich Bucherer opened his shop selling watches and jewellery in Lucerne, which grew to become the international company it is today. To honour the place where it all began, the first dedicated Carl F. Bucherer boutique in Lucerne opened in August 2017 in one of the city’s historic buildings, at Grendelstrasse 8. Jörg G. Bucherer, representing the third generation at the company’s helm, attended the ceremony. “It fills me with pride and joy to be able to continue my family’s legacy around the world while also honouring that same heritage here at home,” he said.

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Previous pages, left to right Li Bingbing in the new Carl F. Bucherer boutique with Jörg G. Bucherer and CEO Sascha Moeri; the new boutique at Grendelstrasse 8 This page, from left Jörg G. Bucherer, Li Bingbing and Sascha Moeri cut the ribbon at the inauguration ceremony; the boutique’s interior

With understated golden displays, set against the cosmopolitan imagery of Lucerne, the new boutique reflects the watchmaker’s heritage with a minimalistic Baroque design. Featuring limestone with a “touch of gold”, the boutique pays homage to the city’s architecture, as well as its surrounding geography and warm golden light. CEO Sascha Moeri was thrilled with the result, saying: “As a Swiss watch manufacturer that has a very deep connection to Lucerne, opening our new boutique here is a very special and unique event.” To lend her own glamorous touch of gold to the proceedings, Li Bingbing, global brand ambassador of Carl F. Bucherer, travelled to Lucerne for the first time for the inauguration, which saw golden curtains open to reveal the boutique to the accompaniment of a live orchestra. Travelling with her parents, the Chinese star spent a week exploring the city. She also made a special trip to the manufacturing facility in Lengnau, where she saw in person how Carl F. Bucherer’s exquisite timepieces are created. carl-f-bucherer.com

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MADE OF LUCERNE

TONGMENG

In celebration of the opening of the new boutique in Lucerne, 188 limited-edition timepieces – an allusion to the year in which the company was founded – were released in selected points of sale. The Manero Peripheral Boutique Edition is driven by the in-house CFB A2050 caliber and represents Carl F. Bucherer’s commitment to embracing its heritage. The colours of the watch reflect its home city: the blue-galvanised dial recalls the city’s coat of arms, while gold represents Lucerne as a cultural melting pot, where tradition is very much alive. The dial’s sunburst finish shimmers like the surface of Lake Lucerne on a sunny day. carl-f-bucherer.com

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LEADING DEVELOPMENT Carl F. Bucherer’s chronographs take the art of watchmaking to the next level with passion – and even more perseverance

“Only with perseverance does a watch reach perfection” It is one of the watchmaking industry’s unwritten rules that only those who develop, research and produce movements and watches in their own workshops can call themselves manufacturers. Milestones are the manufacturer’s own movement families, which are driven by an external rotor – an innovation that Carl F. Bucherer was the first manufacturer to put into series production. Carl F. Bucherer’s chronographs, too, serve as a testament to their manufacturing skill – and the Manero ChronoPerpetual, the Patravi TravelTec and the Manero Flyback all serve as great examples. “These three chronographs all exemplify leading products made by us,” says Kurt Allemann, Vice President Product, who does not stop until the very best has been exceeded. “Our objective was to raise the bar even higher for each collection and to reach the pinnacle of watchmaking achievement.” The Patravi TravelTec is unique in the global watch industry – a big, bold chronograph whose ingenious case and movement design allows three time zones to be displayed simultaneously. Using a patented push-button, users can easily jump back and forth between Western and Eastern time zones. “And it works without having to take the watch off your wrist,” explains Allemann. Another of the Patravi TravelTec’s special features is that its date display can be rotated backwards as well as forwards using the hour setting.

The Manero ChronoPerpetual combines a chronograph with a perpetual calendar. One of watchmaking’s most complex challenges, a perpetual calendar displays the date with no manual corrections required, even accounting for leap years. It also shows the phases of the moon. That is why this timepiece is made with five times as many component parts as a classic chronograph. This mechanical masterpiece is achieved using only coils, gears and springs – all mounted by hand. The flyback function dates back to the 1930s, when it was particularly valued by military pilots to aid precise navigation. With a Flyback Chronograph, the running stopwatch function is set to zero with a single press of a button. The stopwatch resumes as soon as the reset button is released. With its tachymeter, domed sapphire crystal glass and COSC certification, the Manero Flyback pays homage to that pioneering era. For Allemann, attention to every tiny detail is what counts: “That love is where it all starts. But only with perseverance does a watch reach completion and perfection. It’s like a sport – you have to want to win.”

Three masterpieces The Patravi TravelTec FourX (left) has a particularly large case diameter at 46.6mm; the case of the Manero ChronoPerpetual (centre) has a diameter of 42.5mm and domed sapphire crystal glass; and the Manero Flyback's case diameter is 43mm

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Amazing rays Carl F. Bucherer launches a new limited-edition dive watch series dedicated to supporting the work of the Manta Trust

GUY STEVENS/MANTA TRUST

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or Dr Guy Stevens, CEO of British charity the Manta Trust, the relationship with manta rays is a personal one. The marine biologist first encountered the winged sea creatures in his research 15 years ago. “People often ask me, ‘Why manta rays? Why not sharks or dolphins?’” he says. “The easy way to answer is to take them into the ocean and show them a manta ray themselves. When you look into their eyes, you get the impression they are looking back and wondering the same kind of things that you are.” Manta rays are also beautiful. “They almost fly through the water like underwater birds,” says Stevens. “Their giant size, curious behaviour and the fact you can interact with them make them an intriguing subject.” The Manta Trust works to protect and ensure the survival of these mysterious animals in more than 20 different countries. Mantas are under threat because of

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From left to right The Manta Trust drew up a code of conduct for interaction with mantas to protect them; freediving into a feeding chain of reef manta rays at Hanifaru Bay in the Maldives, a Manta Trust researcher slots himself in behind Shark Bait the manta, who is unfazed by his presence

the vulnerability of their life cycle: it can take them up to 15 years to mature, gestation takes a year, and females only give birth to one pup every five or six years. “If you remove just a small number, it makes them very susceptible to fishing, which happens particularly because their gill plates are in demand for medicine,” says Stevens. Carl F. Bucherer’s support of the Manta Trust initiatives started in 2014. “They were launching a dive watch and they wanted to engrave an animal on it,” says Stevens. “They chose the manta ray because it was an iconic species. The company decided to support us and through this support we were able to begin tagging rays in Mexico. Thanks to Carl F. Bucherer, we have also created a code of conduct to promote best practice

in interactions with manta rays, which we have distributed to the tourist industry.” A new limited-edition dive watch series (see right), dedicated to the Manta Trust, will also help to finance further research. To give the Manta Trust global exposure, Carl F. Bucherer flew 10 international journalists to the Maldives in August 2017 to dive with researchers. The results of this study, which are still being analysed, will provide important information on the species’ feeding habits and help determine its adaptability – crucial knowledge for driving conservation initiatives. “There’s so much we don’t know about these mysterious creatures,” concludes Stevens. “It’s an important part of a bigger jigsaw puzzle.” mantatrust.org, carl-f-bucherer.com

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WATCH MY MANTA Each of the new Patravi ScubaTec Manta Trust watches is one of a kind. A unique engraving on the back of the case depicts the pattern on the stomach of a specific manta ray captured on camera underwater by Dr Guy Stevens and his team. “The spot pattern is like a fingerprint,” says Stevens. “From the minute they are born, we are able to identify them.” Under the manta ray, an identification number engraved on the timepiece acts as an access code to the website Watch My Manta, where the new owner can give his or her manta ray a name and trace its routes through the ocean. Two manta rays are also pictured on the ridged dial and the watch features an automatic helium release valve, making it perfect for dives of up to 500m. The luminescent indices and hands round off its sporty look. watchmymanta.com

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Race against time

JONATHAN PRIME/FOCUS FEATURES

Carl F. Bucherer returns to the big screen with action-packed spy thriller Atomic Blonde, directed by brand ambassador David Leitch

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Previous pages Watching her step: Charlize Theron in Atomic Blonde Clockwise from far left Charlize Theron greets Carl F. Bucherer ambassador Daniel Bernhardt at the Berlin premiere; German fashion blogger Lisa Hahnbück; Charlize Theron at the Berlin premiere; the film was directed by Carl F. Bucherer brand ambassador David Leitch, who showed off his timepiece on the red carpet at the Los Angeles premiere

very world-class spy needs a trick or two up his or her sleeve, be it a wrist-mounted dart gun, a pen spy camera or a watch hiding an explosive secret. In Atomic Blonde, which had red-carpet premieres in Los Angeles and Berlin, top agent Lorraine Broughton, played by Charlize Theron, has been given a crucial assignment in which a Carl F. Bucherer wristwatch plays a leading role, though you’ll have to watch the film to find out how the plot unfolds. Sensual and intriguing, the actionpacked thriller is the perfect vehicle for

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former stuntman and Carl F. Bucherer brand ambassador David Leitch, who made his directorial debut in 2014 with John Wick, working with Chad Stahelski. Atomic Blonde also stars Swiss actor and Carl F. Bucherer ambassador Daniel Bernhardt. The director and star proudly flashed their Carl F. Bucherer timepieces on the red carpet in Los Angeles and Berlin, where the film is set. “David Leitch, who has been a partner of ours for many years, has produced another incredible movie with Atomic Blonde,” says Sascha Moeri, CEO of Carl F. Bucherer. “We are delighted that our watches also play a starring role in the movie.”

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BLONDE AMBITION A Carl F. Bucherer watch holds the key to Theron’s mission A Carl F. Bucherer timepiece plays a crucial part in Charlize Theron’s mission as a special agent in Atomic Blonde, directed by Carl F. Bucherer brand ambassador David Leitch. A code engraved on the back of the case of the watch contains key information for her assignment – and she is ready to do anything to complete it. The timepiece travels with her throughout the film. Fellow brand ambassador Daniel Bernhardt, who plays a soldier in Atomic Blonde, told The Hollywood Reporter, “David [Leitch] really responds to the look of the brand; his films are all about non-stop action, so the watches worn by these characters have to feel really sleek and sophisticated and technical.”

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Winter wonder Carl F. Bucherer and GaultMillau name the Kulm Hotel St Moritz Hotel of the Year 2018

he birthplace of winter tourism, the Kulm Hotel St Moritz was named Hotel of the Year 2018 in a prestigious ceremony by Carl F. Bucherer and GaultMillau. With breathtaking views of Lake St Moritz and the Engadin Alps, it is a place that perfectly combines a sense of tradition, innovation and contemporary luxury. For hotel director Heinz Hunkeler it is the second time he has won a Hotel of the Year award, after being honoured at the Grand Hotel Kronenhof in 2008. “This prestigious award is clear confirmation of the excellence of the Kulm Hotel St Moritz,”

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said Hunkeler. “To win it a second time truly is a tremendous honour.” During the ceremony, Sascha Moeri, CEO of Carl F. Bucherer, presented a special watch to Mr Hunkeler, engraved with the words “Hotel of the Year 2018” on the case back. Brand ambassadors DJ Antoine and Daniel Bernhardt, and GaultMillau editor-in-chief Urs Heller also attended the ceremony. Steeped in tradition, the Kulm Hotel St Moritz was opened in the Engadin in 1864 by hotelier Johannes Badrutt, who pioneered the concept of winter tourism. The historic Eispavillon in Kulm Park, which welcomed ice skaters during the Winter Olympics in 1928 and 1948, reopened in January 2017.

Above, from left to right Sascha Moeri, CEO of Carl F. Bucherer, with hotel directors Jenny and Heinz Hunkeler

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THE DIRECTORY THE AMERICAS & CARIBBEAN

Liverpool Insurgentes, Av. Insurgentes

Armstrong Rockwell, 150 Trumbull

91776 San Gabriel CA, +1 626 280 9195,

Abbott’s Jewellery Ltd., 18 Heritage

Sur 131’0 Colonia Del Valle., C.P. 03100

Street, 06103 Hartford CT, +1 860 246

chonghing.com

Quay, St. John’s City, Antigua

Delegacion Benito Juarez, Mexico,

9858, armstrongrockwell.com

and Barbuda, +1 268 462 3107,

+52 54 80 13 00

Clarkson Jewelers, 1306 C. Clarkson/

abbottsjewellery.com

Barons Jewelers, 4870 Dublin Blvd,

Clayton Center, 63011 Ellisville MO,

Liverpool Interlomas, Vialidad de la

94568 Dublin CA, +1 925 452 1700,

+1 636 227 2006, clarksonjewelers.com

The Watch Gallery, Av. Alvear 1910,

Barranca 6, Colonia Exhacienda Jesus

baronsjewelers.com

C1129AAO Buenos Aires, Argentina,

del Monte, C.P. 52787 Municipio de

Costello Jewelry Co., 474 N. Main St.,

+54 114 804 8968, watch-gallery.com

Huixquilucan, Mexico, +52 30 88 23 00

Barry Peterson Jewelers, 511 Sun Valley

60137 Glen Ellyn IL, +1 630 790 3272,

Road, 83340 Ketchum ID, +1 208 726

costello.net

Little Switzerland, Royal Plaza, Lloyd G.

Liverpool Villahermosa Albabrisa, Blvd.

5202, barrypeterson.com

Smith Blvd. 94, Oranjestad, Aruba,

Circuito Interior Carlos Pellicer Camara

Costello Jewelry Co., 33 W. Jefferson,

+11 248 809 5560, littleswitzerland.com

129, Centro Comercial Altabrisa, C.P.

Bernie Robbins, The Promenade

60540 Naperville IL, +1 630 355 1311, costello.net

Little Switzerland, J.E. Irausquin Blvd.

86190 Villahermosa, Mexico, +52 993

at Sagemore, 500 Route 73 South, 08053 Marlton NJ, +1 856 985 4500,

D’amore jewelers, 731 Anderson

382A, Noord, Aruba, +11 248 809 5560,

310 69 00

littleswitzerland.com

Liverpool Zapopan, Av. Patria 2085.

Kirk Freeport, 893 GT Cardinal Ave.,

Fracc. Plaza Andares, C.P. 45080

Georgetown, Grand Cayman, Cayman

Zapopan, Mexico, +52 33 36 48 17 00

Islands, +1345 949 7477, kirkfreeport.net

Masters Joyeros Plaza Carso Planta

Classic Creations, Newtonbrook

Alta, Lago Zurich 245, Col. Ampliacion

Plaza, 5799 Yonge Street, M2M 3V3

Granada, 11529 México D.F., Mexico,

Toronto, ON, Canada, +1 888 316 2765,

+52 55 55579139

classiccreations.com

John Bull, 284 Bay St., Nassau, The

Kaufmann de Suisse, 2195 Cresent St.,

Bahamas, +1 242 363 3956, johnbull.com

H3G 2C1 Montreal, QC, Canada, +1 514

Jewels – Little Switzerland, 37

848 0595, kaufmanndesuisse.com

Dronnigens Gade, 00802 St. Thomas,

Palladio Jewellers, Terminal City Club,

Virgin Islands, +1 340 777 4222,

52900406

Dejaun Jewelers, The Oaks Shopping

453 4370, breckenridgejewels.com

Center, 424 W. Hillcrest Drive, 91360

Caribbean Gems, 105 Main Street,

Thousand Oaks CA, +1 805 495 1425,

99901 Ketchikan AK, +1 907 225 7300,

dejaun.com

Feldmar Watch Company, 9000 West Pico Boulevard, 90035

21401 Annapolis MD, +1 410 263 1996,

Los Angeles CA, +1 310 274 8016,

cezannejewelers.com

feldmarwatch.com

CH Premier Jewelers, 2855 Stevens

Gasper Jewelers, 447 Alvarado Street,

Creek Blvd., 95050 Santa Clara CA,

93940 Monterey CA, +1 831 375 5332,

+1 408 983 2688, chpremier.com

gaspersjewelers.com

Chong Hing Jewelers, 18436 Colima

Gunderson’s Jewelers, Village Pointe

Road, 91748 Rowland Heights CA,

17255 Davenport St., 68118 Omaha NE,

+1 626 810 8883, chonghing.com

+1 402 935 6332, gundersons.com

34236 Sarasota FL, +1 941 388 3711,

Chong Hing Jewelers, Goldsmith

Gunderson’s Jewelers, Lakeport

armeljewelers.com

Corporation Ltd., 140 W. Valley Blvd.,

Commons, 4830 Sergeant Road,

5946, shivasjewelers.com

+11 502 5702 8916, casadelvecchio.com

52786 Estado de México, Mexico, +52 55

darakjian.com

Street, 80424 Breckenridge CO, +1 970

Cezanne Jewelers, 79 Maryland Ave.,

Philipsburg, St. Maarten N.A., +1 721 542

San Fdo. La Herradura Huixquilucan,

48009 Birmingham MI, +1 248 356 7140,

Breckenridge Jewelers, 215 South Main

0003, shopedc.com

Casa Del Vecchio C.C. Arkadia, Zona 10

Interlomas Av. Magnocentro 5, Col.

Darakjian Jewelers, 101 Willits Street,

2800, bighamjewelers.com

Dayton OH, +1 800 395 4306

Jewelers, 70-75 Front Street,

Fuentes Joyeros, Centro Comercial

danieletrissi.com

North, 34103 Naples FL, +1 239 434

1805 South Metro Parkway, 45459

Shiva’s Gold and Gems, Trident

joyeriasbewatch.com.mx

10583 Scarsdale NY, +1 914 723 4500,

Bigham Jewelers, 2425 Tamiami Trail

Elizabeth Diamond Company, 7245 Far

3885, palladiocanada.com

Querétaro, Mexico, +52 442 2460400,

Daniele Trissi, 14-16 Spencer Place,

2446, bernierobbins.com

Hills Ave., 45459 Dayton OH, +1 937 434

Vancouver, BC, Canada, +1 604 685

Antea Lifestyle Center, 76127

945 0530, damorejewelers.com

Avenue, 19085 Villanova PA, +1 610 971

Carl F. Bucherer North America,

littleswitzerland.com

Be Watch, Centro Comercial

Avenue, 07010 Cliffside Park, NJ, +1 201

Bernie Robbins, 775 East Lancaster

caribbeangems.com

855 West Hastings Street, V6C 3N9

Local 326, Guatemala, Guatemala,

bernierobbins.com

USA Armel Jewelers, Bay Street Village & Town Center, 3976 Destination Drive, 34229 Osprey FL, +1 941 966 5878, armeljewelers.com Armel Jewelers, St. Armands Circle, 22 North Boulevard of the Presidents,

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51106 Sioux City IA, +1 712 255 7229,

Mazzarese, Parkway Plaza, 4850 W.

Steiners Jewelry, 231 S. San Mateo

Woorim Fashion Marketing Group,

gundersons.com

135th Street, 66224 Leawood KS,

Drive, 94401 San Mateo CA,

Specialty Contractors Hall 23FL, 395-70

Gunderson’s Jewelers, Bridges at 57th,

+1 800 735 5112, mazzarese.com

+1 650 342 1824, steinersjewelry.com

Shindaebang-dong, Dongjak-gu, 156-714

2109 W. 57th St., 57108 Sioux Falls SD,

MJ Christensen Jewelers, 8980 W.

Swiss Watch Gallery, 940 The Shops at

Seoul, Korea, +82 2 3284 1301/2

+1 605 338 9060, gundersons.com

Charleston Blvd., 89117 Las Vegas NV,

Mission Viejo, 92691 Mission Viejo CA,

Cortina Watch Ltd., 26/48 Orakarn

Harold Jaffe Jewelers, 4211 Talmadge

+1 702 952 2300

+1 949 364 2500, swisswatchgallery.com

Building, Soi Chidlom, Ploenchit Road,

Road, 43623 Toledo OH, +1 419 472 4480,

Morgans Jewelers, 50-C Peninsula

Timeless Luxury Watches, 6950

Lumpini, Pathumwan, 10330 Bangkok,

haroldjaffe.com

Center, 90274 Rolling Hills Estates CA,

Lebanon Road, 75034 Frisco TX, +1 214

Isaac Jewelers, Kierland Commons,

+1 310 541 2052, morgansjewelers.com

494 4241, timelessluxwatches.com

15044 N. Scottsdale Rd., 85254

Moyer Fine Jewelry, 14727 Thatcher

The Atrium at the Palazzo, 3325 S. Las

CHINA, HONG KONG & MACAU

Scottsdale AZ, +1 480 941 9090,

Lane, 46032 Carmel IN, +1 317 844 9003,

Vegas Blvd., 89109 Las Vegas NV,

Changchun International Watch,

isaacjewelers.com

moyerfinejewelers.com

+1 702 607 6768

J. Brooks Jewelers, Fashion Plaza, 152

Old Northeast Jewelers, 1131 4th Street

The Atrium at the Venetian, 3355 S. Las

East Winchester St., 84107 Murray UT,

North, 33701 St. Petersburg FL, +1 727

Vegas Blvd., 89109 Las Vegas NV,

+1 801 266 4747, jbrooksjewelers.com

898 4377, oldnortheastjewelers.com

+1 702 414 4971

J. Brooks Jewelers, 1791 West Traverse

Old Northeast Jewelers, Tampa

Tourneau, The Forum Shops at Caesars,

Parkway, 84043 Lehi UT, +385 336 7400,

International Plaza Mall 2223 N. West

3500 Las Vegas Blvd. South F-07,

jbrooksjewelers.com

Shore Blvd., 33607 Tampa FL, +1 813 875

89109 Las Vegas NV, +1 702 732 8463,

J. Scott Jewelers, 114 Beaver Creek

8899, oldnortheastjewelers.com

tourneau.com

Plaza, 81620 Beaver Creek CO, +1 970

Packouz Jewelers, 522 SW Broadway,

Watch Expo, 980 West Coast Highway,

949 7020, jscottjewels.com

97205 Portland OR, +1 503 228 3111,

92663 Newport Beach CA, +1 949 566

J. Vincent Jewelers, 420 State Route

packouzjewelers.com

9006, twilatrue.com

34, 07722 Colts Neck NJ, +1 732 256

Provident Jewelers, 15245 South

Watch Connection, 3033 South Bristol

4410, jvincent.com

Tamiami Trail, 33908 Fort Meyers FL,

Street, 92626 Costa Mesa CA,

Kenjo, 47 West 55th St., 10019 NY,

+1 239 274 7777, providentjewelry.com

+1 714 432 8200, watchconnection.com

+1 800 548 8463, kenjo.net

Provident Jewelers, 150 Worth Ave.,

Westime, 216 North Rodeo Drive, 90210

Kimball’s Jewelers, 6464 Kingston Pike,

33480 Palm Beach FL, +1 561 833 0550,

Beverly Hills CA, +1 310 888 8880,

37919 Knoxville TN, +1 865 584 0026,

providentjewelry.com

westime.com

kimballsjewelers.com

Provident Jewelers, 331 Clematis St.,

Westime, 8569 West Sunset Boulevard,

King Jewelers, 18265 Biscayne

33401 West Palm Beach FL,

90069 West Hollywood CA,

Boulevard, 33160 Aventura FL,

+1 561 833 7755, providentjewelry.com

+1 310 289 0808, westime.com

+1 305 935 4900, kings1912.com

Provident Jewelers, 828 W. Indiantown

William Barthman Jewelers, 1118 Kings

Chaoyang District, 130061 Changchun,

Lester Lampert, 7 E. Huron St.,

Road, 33458 Jupiter FL, +1 561 747 4449,

Highway, 11229 Brooklyn NY, +1 718 375

+86 431 88987487

60611 Chicago IL, +1 800 228 9436,

providentjewelry.com

1818, williambarthman.com

lesterlampert.com

Provident Jewelers, 11924 Forest Hill

Wynn Las Vegas, 3131 Las Vegas Blvd.

Nanping Shopping Mall, 8 North

Loghman Jewelers, 1555 Camino

Blvd 30, 33414 Wellington FL,

South, 89109 Las Vegas NV,

Nanping Road, Nan’an District, 400060

Del Mar, 92014 Del Mar CA, +1 858

+1 561 798 0777, providentjewelry.com

+1 702 770 3520, wynnlasvegas.com

Chongqing, +86 23 88306130

523 0000, loghman.com

Radiance, ARIA Resort & Casino Las

London Jewelers, 2 Main Street, 11937

Vegas, 3730 Las Vegas Blvd. Sth., 89109

ASIA

New Century Department Store, 1 North

East Hampton NY, +1 631 329 3939,

Las Vegas NV, +1 702 590 8725, aria.com

DFS (Cambodia) Limited, 18 Street

Xinjian Road, Jiangbei District, 400020

londonjewelers.com

Sandler’s Diamonds & Time, 920

432, Sangkat Boeung Trabek, Khan

Chongqing, +86 23 89188879

London Jewelers, 28 School Street,

Houston Northcutt Blvd., 29464

Thailand, +66 2254 1031, cortinawatch.com

Changchun International Building, 478 Chongqing Road, Jilin, 130041 Changchun, +86 431 88913168 Emperor Watch & Jewellery, Haiyi Hotel, 68 Zourong Road, Yuzhong District, 400010 Chongqing, +86 23 63828329, emperorwatchjewellery.com Emperor Watch & Jewellery Ltd., BeijingScitech Plaza, 22 Jianguo Road, Chaoyang District, 100022 Beijing, +86 10 85110922, emperorwatchjewellery.com Harbin Qiulin Watch, Harbin Qiulin Department Store, 320 East Dongdazhi Street, Nangang District, 150001 Harbin, +86 451 87157585 Harmony World Watch, Beijing Xidan Department Store, 120 North Road, Xicheng District, 100031 Beijing, +86 10 66011216 Harmony World Watch, Changchun Department Store, 1881 Renming Street,

Harmony World Watch, Chongqing

Harmony World Watch, Chongqing

Chamkarmorn, 12000 Phnom Penh City,

Harmony World Watch, Hangzhou Mixc

Mt. Pleasant SC, +1 843 936 3516,

Cambodia

londonjewelers.com

sandlerjewelry.com

Bijem, Le Saint Geran Hotel, Poste

Jianggan District, 310016 Hangzhou, +86

London Jewelers, Americana

Shannon Fine Jewelry, 6944 Cypress

de Flacq, Mauritius, +230 54235967,

571 89705710

11542 Glen Cove NY, +1 516 671 3154,

Department Store, 701 Fuchun Road,

Creek Pkwy, 77069 Houston TX,

bijem.com

11030 Manhasset NY, +1 516 627 7475,

+1 281 893 1175, shannonfinejewelry.com

Bijem, Le Prince Maurice Hotel, Route

Department Store, 130 Ma Anshan

londonjewelers.com

Shannon Fine Jewelry, 1440 Lake

Choisy, Poste de Flacq, Mauritius,

Road, Baohe District, 230061 Hefei, +86

London Jewelers, 47 Main Street,

Woodlands Drive, 77380 The

+230 54235967, bijem.com

551 62891586

Woodlands TX, +1 281 364 7172,

Maradiva Villas Resort & Spa, Wolmar,

Harmony World Watch , Huhhot

londonjewelers.com

shannonfinejewelry.com

Mauritius, +230 453 81 99

Minzu Store, 7 West Zhongshan Road,

London Jewelers, Westfield World

Sollberger’s, 1111 Highland Colony Pkwy

Watchworks, Ali Mall, Arenata Center,

Huimin District, Inner Mongolia, 010020

E, 39157 Ridgeland MS, +1 601 853 1777,

Quezon City, Philippines, +63 2 911 7878

Huhhot, +86 471 6932598

NY, +1 212-381-9455

sollbergers.com

DFS, T Galleria, Scotts Road 25, 228220

Harmony World Watch, Luoyang Wang

Louis Anthony, 1775 North Highland

Stafford Jewelers, Kenwood Mall, 7875

Singapore, +65 6229 8100

Fujing Plaza, 429 Zhongzhouzhong St.,

Montgomery Road, 45236 Cincinnati OH,

JW Horological Gallery, International

Manhasset, 2046 Northern Boulevard,

11968 Southampton NY, +1 631 287 4499,

Trade Center, 185 Greenwich St., 10007

Road, 15241 Pittsburgh PA, +1 412 854 0310, louisanthony.com

+1 513 891 5200, staffordjewelers.com

Harmony World Watch, Hefei Wanda

471000 Luoyang, +86 379 63263696

Plaza, 10 Anson Road, 79903 Singapore,

Harmony World Watch, Nanchang

+65 6538 6055

Baisheng Department Store,

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PATRAVI SCUBATEC MANTA TRUST Released in a limited edition of 188, this dive watch series from Carl F. Bucherer is dedicated to the Manta Trust charity. Each watch is truly one of a kind: a unique engraving on the back of the case depicts the stomach pattern of an individual manta ray photographed by one of the Manta Trust team, and an identification number beneath allows access to a website where the owner can find out more about the specific ray, and even name it.

Stand-out feature The automatic helium release valve means the Patravi ScubaTec Manta Trust is perfectly equipped for dives up to 500m.

177 Zhongshan Road, 330000

Xiaodian District, Shanxi, 030006

Liaoning HengJia Watch Co. Ltd.,

King’s Watch Co. Ltd., 49 Queen’s Road

Nanchang, +86 791 86733236

Taiyuan, +86 351 7887127

Chaoyang Wada Plaza, 1 Chaoyang

Central, Hong Kong, +852 2522 3469,

Harmony World Watch, Harmony

Hengdeli Watch Jiamusi , Hengdeli

Street, Shuangta District, Chaoyang

kingswatch.com.hk

Shenyang 1928, 312 North Nanjing Road,

Watch, Jiamusi Store, 134 Zhongshan

Dalian Jinhua, Intercontinental Shop,

La Suisse Watch Co. Ltd., 719 Nathan

Heping District, 110001 Shenyang, +86

Road, 154002 Jiamusi, +86 454 8888555

10 Yide Street, Zhongshan District

Road, Mongkok, Kowloon, Hong Kong,

24 83830709

Shanghai Orient Shopping Mall, Orient

116001 Dalian

+852 2394 1692

Harmony World Watch Shop, Huarun

Shopping Mall, 8 North Caoxi Road,

Dalian Jinhua, Central Avenue

Oriental Watch Co. Ltd., 133 Des Voeux

Grand Hyatt, 1881 South Baoan Road,

200030 Shanghai, +86 21 64870000

Shopping Mall, 107 Xi’an Road,

Road Central, Hong Kong, +852 2545

Shanghai Sanlian Group, Sanlian

Shahekou District, Dalian

0927, orientalwatch.com

Department Store, 456 East Nanjing

Oriental Watch Holdings Ltd.,

Oriental Watch Co. Ltd., Kowloon

Harmony World Watch, Taiyuan World

Road, Huangpu District, 200001

KoreaTown, Capital Outlet, 1 Lian Xing

Building, 555 Nathan Road, Yau Ma Tei,

Trade Shopping Centre, 69 Fuxi Street,

Shanghai, +86 21 63222183

Road, Wanning City, Hainan

Kowloon, Hong Kong, +852 2384 8103,

Shanxi, 030002 Taiyuan, +86 351

Xinyu Elegant-Beijing HDL WFJ

orientalwatch.com

8689400

Jinzhou XinHaiYuan, 30-52, Zone C,

Customer Service Centre, Danyao

Wuhan Street, Jinzhou

Oriental Watch Co. Ltd., Hong Kiu

Harmony World Watch, Harmony Xian

Plaza, 172 Wangfujing Street, 100006

Mansion, 313 Nathan Road, Jordan,

Haomen Boutique, 36 South Street,

Beijing, +86 10 6525 0406

Jinzhou XinHaiYuan, QianSheng

Beilin District, 710001 Xi’an, +86 29

Prime Time- Beijing HDL New World

orientalwatch.com

87263151

Linghe District, Jinzhou

Customer Service Centre, 7/F Office Tower, 5 Chongwenmenwai Street,

Harmony World Watch, 2/F

Prince Jewellery & Watch Co.,

Harmony World Watch, Xian Kaiyuan Department Store (Xishaomen), Cross

100062 Beijing, +86 10 6525 6100

southeast, Xishao Door, Lianhu District,

Prime Time- Shanghai Watch & Clock

710000 Xi’an, +86 29 62829351

Customer Service Centre, 34 Yandang

Harmony World Watch, Xian Kaiyuan

Road, 200020 Shanghai,

Department Store (Zhonglou), 6 East

+86 21 6384 5283

Jiefang Road, Beilin District, 710000

Prime Time- Shanghai Golden Bell

Xi’an, +86 29 87235469

Customer Service Centre, Rm 1409,

Harmony World Watch, Yinchuan

14/F Golden Bell Plaza, 98 Huaihai Road,

Xinhua Department Store, 97 Xinhua

200021 Shanghai, +86 21 6023 2525

Street, Xingqing District, 750001

Anshan Wisdom Swiss Watch, 47 Er

Luohu District, 518001 Shenzhen, +86 755 82668369

Yinchuan, +86 951 6083021

Yi Jiu Road, Tie Dong District, 114001

Hengdeli Group Ltd., Beijing

AnShan, +86 412 2280059

Department Store, 253-255 Wangfujing

Carl F. Bucherer, 1045 West Nanjing

Street, Dongcheng District, 100006 Beijing, +86 10 85115758 Hengdeli Group Ltd., Beijing ShuangAn Department Store, 28 North Third Ring West Road, Haidian District, 100086 Beijing, +86 10 62138820 Hengdeli Group Ltd., Sanbao Watch, Wangfujing Plaza, 99 Qinxian Road,

Road, Jing’An District, 200041 Shanghai, +86 21 5272 8236 Beijing Yansha Outlet, 1/F, Yansha Outlet, 9 East Fourth Ring Road, Chaoyang District, 100083 Beijing Oriental Watch Holdings Ltd, F2-A01 Koreatown Outlet, 5 Yuesheng Road,

Shopping Mall, 24th Shanghai Road,

InterContinental Hotels & Resorts, 5 Yijing Road, Dianchi District, Kunming Hengdeli Group Ltd., HuaYu Shopping Center, 87 Kaihua Temple Road, Yingze District, Taiyuan Harmony World Watch Centre, 1/F Dayang Shopping Mall, 756 Zhongshan Road, Jianghan District, Wuhan Hengdeli Group Ltd., 1/F Mambat Plaza, 88 Hexi Road, Zhangjiagang Carl F. Bucherer Boutique, Hong Kong Shop, 1 Yee Wo Street, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong, +852 2882 2302 Carol’s Watch Mirador Mansion, 54 64B Nathan Road Tsimshashui, Kowloon, Hong Kong, +852 2311 1433, carols.com.hk

Kowloon, Hong Kong, +852 2543 9810,

58 Russell Street, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong, +852 2776 0688, princejewellerywatch.com Prince Jewellery & Watch Co., 16 Kai Chui Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong, +852 2895 6688, princejewellerywatch.com Prince Jewellery & Watch Co., Prestige Tower, 23 25 Nathan Road, Tsimshashui, Kowloon, Hong Kong, +852 2739 2333, princejewellerywatch.com Prince Jewellery & Watch Co., Bo Yip Building, 10 Peking Road, Tsimshashui, Kowloon, Hong Kong, +852 2369 2123, princejewellerywatch.com Prince Jewellery & Watch Co., Ocean Centre, 3 27 Canton Road, Tsimshashui,

Carol’s Watch, Golden Glory Mansion,

Kowloon, Hong Kong, +852 2736 6636/

16 Carnarvon Road, Tsimshashui,

2311 4432, princejewellerywatch.com

Kowloon, Hong Kong, +852 2366 0221, carols.com.hk

Prince Jewellery & Watch Co., Landmark North, 39 Lung Sum Avenue,

Changyang Town, Fangshan Dst., Beijing

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MANERO PERIPHERAL The Manero Peripheral stands out not just for its bezel paved with 60 diamonds nor the elaborate dial made from highest-quality snow white mother-of-pearl – the model also shines on the inside, thanks to the in-house manufacture caliber CFB A2050. Carl F. Bucherer has also dressed this first-class movement with elegance and femininity: gentle, rounded lines characterise the stainless steel case, while precious alligator leather straps complete the overall look.

Stand-out feature Sixty diamonds with a total weight of 0.6 ct, set into the bezel, beautifully complement the minute circle on the dial.

Shek Wu Hui, Sheung Shui, New

Prince Jewellery & Watch Co., Prince

Ethos Swiss Watch Studios, Adugodi

Entetsu Department Store, 7F 320

Territories, Hong Kong, +852 2323 2308,

Tower 12A Peking Road Tsimshashui,

Road, Koramangala, 560095 Bangalore,

2, Sunayama cho, Naka ku, 430 8588

princejewellerywatch.com

Kowloon, Hong Kong, +852 2369 1178,

+91 802 206 7784, ethoswatches.com

Hamamatsu, +81 53 457 0001,

Prince Jewellery & Watch Co.,

princejewellerywatch.com

Ethos Swiss Watch Studios, Inorbit Mall

endepa.com

Yuen Long Plaza, Yuenlong, New

Prince Jewellery & Watch Co., 98

Ethos, Survey 64, 500081 Hyderabad,

Fukuoka Tenjin ten Daimaru, 4F 1 4 1,

Territories, Hong Kong, +852 2793 0020,

Castle Peak Rd. (Yuen Long), Yuenlong,

+91 404 020 2881/82, ethoswatches.com

Tenjin, Chuo ku 810 8717 Fukuoka, +81 92

princejewellerywatch.com

New Territories, Hong Kong, +852 2793

712 8181, daimaru.co.jp

0020, princejewellerywatch.com

Ethos Swiss Watch Studios, Inorbit

Prince Jewellery & Watch Co., 49

Mind Space Malad (W), 400064

Fukuya Hacchobori ten, 7F 6 26, Ebisu

52 Haiphong Road, Tsimshashui,

Oriental Watch Co. Ltd., The Macau

Mumbai, +91 226 640 6991/92,

cho, Naka ku, 730 0021 Hiroshima, +81 82

Kowloon, Hong Kong, +852 2367 8871,

Square 47 53, Avenida do Infante D.

ethoswatches.com

246 6111, fukuya-dept.co.jp

princejewellerywatch.com

Henrique, Macau, +853 2871 7323,

Hidaka Honten Pro Shop, 3 4 6,

Prince Jewellery & Watch Co., V City,

orientalwatch.com

Ethos Swiss Watch Studios, Dial, New Udaan, Bhavan, T3 opp. ATC Complex,

Tachibanadorihigashi, 880 0805

83 Heung Sze Wui Road, Tuen Mun,

Xu Xing Long Watch Ltd., Avn de

110037 New Delhi, +91 114 963 3438/39,

Miyazaki, +81 985 26 1102,

New Territories, Hong Kong, +852 2362

Almeida Ribeiro, 345.R/C, Macau,

ethoswatches.com

hidakahonten.jp

0213, princejewellerywatch.com

+853 2835 7081

Ethos-Service Centre, The Touchstone

Ikebukuro Seibu, 6F 1 28 1,

Annexe, 1 Bowring Hospital Road,

Minamiikebukuro, Toshima ku, 171 8569

The Grand Mall, Kwun Tong Harbour Plaza, 182 Wai Yip Street, Kwun Tong,

INDIA

Shivajinagar, 560001 Bangalore, +91 802

Tokyo, +81 3 3981 0111, sogo-seibu.jp

Kowloon, Hong Kong, +852 2122 9696

Ethos Summit Shop, UB City, Vittal

206 7782, ethoswatches.com

Mallya Road, Canberra Block,

Ikebukuro Tobu, 6F 10 1 1 25,

Time Watch Shop A, Railway Plaza, 39

Master of Time by Ethos, Chatrapati

Nishiikebukuro, Toshima ku, 171 8512

Shivaji International Airport, Sahar Road,

Tokyo, +81 3981 2211, tobu-dept.jp

Andheri (E), 400099 Mumbai, +91 988

Jewelry & Watch Watanabe, 17 9,

Chatham Road, Tsimshashui, Kowloon,

560001 Bangalore, +91 804 099 9621,

Hong Kong, +852 2723 9989,

ethoswatches.com

timewatch.com.hk

Ethos Summit, Select City Walk, District

805 011 01, ethoswatches.com

Tung Hing Watch Co. Ltd., 617 619

Centre Saket, 110017 New Delhi, +91 114

Platinum Time Services, N.M. Joshi

+81 138 23 4111, watanabe-honten.com

Marg, Opp. G South Municipal Office,

Jewelry/Watch Boutique IKEDA Plus, 1 22, Higashi Senbacho, 770 0911

Nathan Road, Mongkok, Kowloon, Hong

058 8700, ethoswatches.com

Kong, +852 2994 0008

Ethos Summit, Elante Mall, Industrial

400013 Maharashtra, India, +91 22

Wah Hing Watch Co. Ltd., 646 Nathan

& Business Park, Phase 1, 160002

2421 5544

Road, Mongkok, Kowloon, Hong Kong,

Chandigarh, +91 172 466 3008/4008, ethoswatches.com

JAPAN

Bucherer Hong Kong Ltd., Times Tower,

Ethos Summit, Palladium Mall, High

Abeno Harukas Kintetsu, Tower Bldg.

Street Phoenix, 462 Senapati Bapat

11F 1 1 43, Abenosuji, Abeno ku, 545 8545

Marg, Lower Parel, 400013 Mumbai,

Osaka, +81 6 6627 0102,

+91 226 615 130 89, ethoswatches.com

abenoharukas.d-kintetsu.co.jp

Ethos Swiss Watch Studios Shop,

Best Shinjuku, 3 17 12, Shinjuku, Shinjuku

Kempegowda International Airport,

ku, 160 0022 Tokyo, +81 3 5360 6800,

Devanhalli, 560300 Bangalore, +91 982

ishida-watch.com

097 6762, ethoswatches.com

Bucherer Japan Ltd., Bldg. 2-15-19

Ethos Swiss Watch Studios,

Tsukiji, 8F Millenium Tsukiji, 104-0045

International Airport, 110038 New Delhi,

Chu-Ku, Tokyo, +81 3 6226 4650

Kong, +852 2815 1968 Tycoon City, New Mandarin Plaza, 14 Science Museum Road, Tsimshashui, Kowloon, Hong Kong, +852 3963 9100 Prince Jewellery & Watch Co., MOKO, 193 Prince Edward Road West, Mongkok, Kowloon, Hong Kong, +852 2366 7313, princejewellerywatch.com

+91 114 963 343 89, ethoswatches.com

Tokushima, +81 88 678 3080, ikd-grp.com Kamine Toaroad, 3 1 22, Sannomiya

+852 2396 0680 391-407 Jaffe Road, Wanchai, Hong

Wakamatsu cho, 680 8601 Hakodate,

cho, Chuo ku, 650 0021 Kobe, +81 78 321 0039, kamine.co.jp Kijinkan, 1F 2 7 10, Nippombashi, Chuo ku, 542 0073 Osaka, +81 6 6636 6630, kijinkan.co.jp Kochi Daimaru 3F 1 6 1, Obiya machi, 780 0841 Kochi, +81 88 822 5111, kochi-daimaru.co.jp Kokura Izutsuya, 6F 1 1, Senbamachi, Kokurakita ku, 802 0007 Kitakyushu, +81 93 522 3111, izutsuya.co.jp

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MANERO POWERRESERVE Carl F. Bucherer brings colour into play for the classic Manero PowerReserve, which sees the addition of a limited edition model. The centrepiece of this authentic manufacture product featuring an elaborate dial in luminous pine green is the CFB A1011 caliber automatic movement, which belongs to the CFB A1000 movement family.

Stand-out feature The peripheral oscillating weight winding in both directions allows the movement a power reserve of at least 55 hours fully wound.

Kyoto Takashimaya, 5F 52, Nishiiru

Tottori Daimaru, 4F 2 151, Imacho,

King’s Sign Watch Co. Ltd., Poh Ei Shop,

Muscat, Oman, +968 950 46 623,

Shincho, Shinjo Kawaramachi, Shimogyo

680 8601 Tottori, +81 857 25 2111,

33 Bo ai Road, Zhongzheng, 100 Taipei,

muscatwatchcentre.com

ku, 600 8520 Kyoto, +81 75 221 8811,

daimaru-tottori.co.jp

+886 2 2312 2772, kingsignwatch.com

Watch House, Al Wahat Centre, 38 Hay

King’s Sign Watch Co. Ltd., Zhongxiao

Al Andous Street, 657 Tripoli, Libya,

takashimaya.co.jp Matsuzakaya Nagoya ten, 3 16 1, Sakae,

TAIWAN

Shop 235, Sec. 4, Zhongxiao E. Road,

+218 913728096

Naka ku, 460 8430 Nagoya, +81 52 264

Basel Watch Gallery, 16, Ln. 35, Jihu

Da an, 106 Taipei, +886 2 2751 9866,

2689, matsuzakaya.co.jp

Road, Neihu, 114 Taipei, +886 2 2659 2330

kingsignwatch.com

Rivoli Doha City Centre, Doha City

Okazaki Seibu, 3F 38 5, Tosaki cho, aza,

Carl F. Bucherer Taiwan Ltd., 10F-6 150,

Pao Yee Watch Co., 51 Nanmen St.,

+974 4 4833679, rivoligroup.com

Toyama, 444 8710 Okazaki, +81 564 59

Fu Hsing N. Rd., Taipei, +886 2 8772 0122

Banqiao, 220 New Taipei, +886 2

3149, sogo-seibu.jp

2968 8069

Rivoli Prestige Doha, City Centre,

Century Watch Co., 1F 6, Ln. 180, Sec. 6,

Ryubo, 5F 1 1 1, Kumoji, 900 0015 Naha,

Minquan E. Road, Neihu, 114 Taipei,

Shi Mei Chai Watch Co., 151, Sec.1,

+81 98 867 8644, ryubo.jp

+886 2 7743 7988

Meicun Road West, 403 Taichung,

Seibu PISA Watch & Jewelry Salon,

Ever Rich D.F.S. Corporation, Golden

+886 4 2310 8981

The Prince Park Tower Tokyo 1F, 4 8 1,

Lake Plaza Kinmen, 198, Sec. 2, Taihu

Tasa Meng Taoyuan, International

Shibakoen, Minato ku, 105 0011 Tokyo,

Rd., Jinhu Township, 891 Kinmen County,

Airport Tasa Meng, 9 Hangzhan S. Road,

+81 3 5400 0717, chino-j.co.jp

+886 82 322 733, everrich-group.com.tw

Dayuan Township, 337 Taoyuan City,

Shinsaibashi Daimaru, North Bldg. 12F

Ever Rich D.F.S. Corporation, Duty

+886 3 3383 3133

1 7 1, Shinsaibashisuji, Chuo ku, 542 8501

Free Plaza, 129, Jinzhuang Road, Neihu,

Tien Ven Tai Optical Watch Co. Ltd.,

Osaka, +81 6 6271 1231, daimaru.co.jp

11469 Taipei, +886 2 8792 3999, everrich-

202 Zhongzheng Road, Fengyuan, 420

Okayama Takashimaya 7F 6 40,

group.com.tw

Taichung, +886 4 2525 0428

Honmachi, Kita ku, 700 0901 Okayama,

Ever Rich D.F.S. Corporation, Taoyuan

Time Watch Enterprise Co., 2F 152

+81 86 232 1111, takashimaya.co.jp

International Airport, 9, Hangzhan S. Rd.,

Jiankang Road, Songshan, 105 Taipei,

Yamaguchi Izutsuya 3F 3 3, Nakaichi

Dayuan Township, 33758 Taoyuan City,

+886 2 7706 9880

cho, 753 0086 Yamaguchi, +81 83 925

+886 3 398 3497, everrich-group.com.tw

Yuan Henry Watch Co., 742 Dadun

5513, izutsuya.co.jp

Formosa 06, 115 Dayong Road,

Road, Nantun, 408 Taichung, +886 4

Nihombashi Takashimaya Watch

Yancheng, 803 Kaohsiung, +886 7

2323 1166

Maison, 3 1 8, Nihombashi, Chuo ku,

551 8156

Yung Hsin Watch Co., 28, Sec. 1,

103 0027 Tokyo, +81 3 3211 4111, watch.

Formosa 11, 171 Zhongzheng Road, West

Zhongcheng Road, Shilin, 111 Taipei, +886

takashimaya.co.jp

Central, 700 Tainan, +886 6 225 3184

2 8866 1975

Osaka Takashimaya Watch Maison,

Jin Shih Tang Watch Co., 310

Yung Hsin Watch Co., 99 Tongde 6th

5 1 5, Namba, Chuo ku, 542 8510 Osaka,

Zhongshan Road North, 300 Hsinchu,

Street, Taoyuan Dist., 330 Taoyuan City,

+81 6 6631 1101, takashimaya.co.jp

+886 3 525 8188

+886 3 316 0002

Okayama Temmaya, 3F 2 1 1,

Jing Guang Tang Watches Co.,

Omotemachi, Kita ku, 700 8625

Chungyo Dept Store, 2F, Bldg. B

MIDDLE EAST

Okayama, +81 86 231 7111, tenmaya.co.jp

161, Sec.3, Sanmin Road North, 404

Almas Watch Gallery, Sam Center 11,

Tokyo Daimaru, 10F 1 9 1, Marunouchi,

Taichung, +886 4 2223 4621

Fereshteh St., Tehran, Iran, +98 21

Chiyoda ku, 100 6701 Tokyo, +81 3 3212

Kin Kong Watch Co., 432 Linsen N.

2265 3854

8011, daimaru.co.jp

Road, Zhongshan, 104 Taipei, +886 2

Muscat Watch Centre, Bareeq Al

2560 1530

Shatti Shopping Centre, Al Shatti,

Centre, Westbay Area, Doha, Qatar,

4th Street, Doha, Qatar, rivoligroup.com Rivoli, P.O. Box 16903, Doha, Qatar, +974 4487 3240 Rivoli Burjuman Center, Burjuman Center, Dubai, UAE, +971 4 3555191, rivoligroup.com Rivoli Dubai Mall, Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai, UAE, +971 4 3398496, rivoligroup.com Rivoli Mall of the Emirates, Mall of the Emirates, Al Barsha, Dubai, UAE, +971 4 3413121, rivoligroup.com Rivoli Prestige Burj Al Arab, Burj Al Arab Hotel, Dubai, UAE, +971 4 3487281, rivoligroup.com Rivoli Prestige, The Galleria Mall, Sowwah Square Al Maryah Island, Abu Dhabi, UAE, +971 2 643 2204, rivoligroup.com Rivoli Prestige, Zabeel Saray Hotel, The Palm Jumeirah, Crescent Road (West), Dubai, UAE, +971 4 4508019, rivoligroup.com Rivoli, P.O. Box 121, Dubai, UAE, +971 4 211 4600 Rivoli, P.O. Box 3406, Abu Dhabi, UAE, +971 2 418 7900

1888 The Heritage Issue 63

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AFRICA & AUSTRALIA

Bucherer, Hefnersplatz 4 6, 90402

Pisa Orologeria, Via Pietro Verri

Paris Look, Carrer de Casp 33A, 08010

The Golden Big Five Ltd.,

Nuremberg, Germany, +49 911 20 51 70,

7, 20121 Milan, Italy, +39 02 762081,

Barcelona, Spain, +34 93 458 5804

7 Chandler Drive, Craighall Park,

bucherer.com

pisaorologeria.com

2196 Johannesburg, South Africa,

Joyería Nicol´s, C/ José Ortega y

Bucherer, Friedrichstrasse 176-179,

GIS s.r.l., Via Giuseppe Zanardelli 23,

Gasset, 11, 28006 Madrid, Spain, +34 91

10117 Berlin, Germany, +49 30 20 41 049,

Piazza Navona, 00186 Rome, Italy,

577 6663

Swiss Watch Service Centre Pty

bucherer.com

+39 06 68 64 716

Ltd., 343 Little Collins Street, 3000

Joyería Fernández, Calle Brocense 19,

Bucherer, Kurfürstendamm 45, 10719

Pasha Ltd, Tole bi Str. 25, 50010 Almaty,

37002 Salamanca, Spain, +34 923 210127,

Berlin, Germany, +49 30 88 04 030,

Kazakhstan, +7 727 2938371

joyeriafernandez.es

bucherer.com

Pasha Ltd, 4 Sayarka Str, Radisson Hotel

Santi Pamies, C/Raval de Jesús 50,

Bucherer, Königsallee 26, 40212

Astana, 10000 Astana, Kazakhstan,

43201 Reus, Spain, +34 977 330697

Dusseldorf, Germany, +49 211 32 80 83,

+7 725 70470

bucherer.com

Fredmans Ur AB, Strandvägen 17, 11456

Toricado, 6/1 Stefan cel Mare Str., 2001

Stockholm, Sweden, +46 8 667 44 66,

Bucherer, Kaiserstrasse 1, 60311

Chisinau, Moldova, +373 22 54 52 31

fredmansur.se

Frankfurt, Germany, +49 69 13 88 20,

Coster Diamonds, Paulus Potterstraat 2,

DD Foreign Trade Ltd, Hüsrev Gerede

1071 CZ Amsterdam, Netherlands, +31 20

Cad. 52/1, 34365 Tesvikiye Istanbul,

Bucherer, Jungfernstieg 25, 20354

305 5555, costerdiamonds.com

Turkey, +90 212 327 2550

Hamburg, Germany, +49 40 34 34 67,

Gassan Dam Square, Rokin 1 5 (Dam),

Argos, 54 Akdeniz Caddesi, Kemer,

1012 KK Amsterdam, Netherlands, +31 20

07130 Antalya, Turkey, +90 242 814 70

Bucherer, Neuhauser Strasse 2, 80331

624 5787, gassan.com

40, argosjewelart.com

Munich, Germany, +49 89 29 82 83,

Gassan Schiphol, Schiphol Airport, 1118

Arte Gioia, Akmerkez AVM, Zemin Kat,

AV Amsterdam, Netherlands, +31 20 405

No116 Etiler, 34771 Istanbul, Turkey, +90

Bucherer Palais an der Oper

99 20, gassan.com

212 282 19 02, artegioia.com

Residenzstrasse 2, 80333 Munich,

Veerman Juwelen, Lindenlaan 28, 1271

Arte Gioia, Istinyepark AVM, Giris Kat,

BA Huizen, Netherlands, +31 35 523

R410 Istinye, 34460 Istanbul, Turkey, +90

0958, veermanjuwelen.nl

212 345 65 08, artegioia.com

Urmaker Thv. Thorbjornsen, Nytorget

Marka, Kavok Sok. 8 Topcular, 07170

12, 4013 Stavanger, Norway, +47 900 70

Antalya, Turkey, +90 242 340 63 77

268, urmaker.no

Olympus, Cornellia Diamond Hotel,

Jubitom, Katowice Silesia City Center,

Belek, 07506 Antalya, Turkey, +90 242

Ul. Chorzowska 1007, 40 101 Katowice,

715 22 61

Poland, +48 667 778 092, jubitom.com

Parla, 49, Acısu Mevkii, Xanadu Hotel,

Jubitom, Bonarka City Center, Ul.

Belek, 07505 Antalya, Turkey, +90 242

Kamienskiego 11, 30 644 Krakow, Poland,

715 15 32

+48 12 298 68 64, jubitom.com

Perge, Aksu Cikisi 2, Aksu, 07112 Antalya,

Jubitom, C.H. Arkadia, Aleja Jana Pawła

Turkey, +90 242 426 36 36

II 82, 00 175 Warszawa, Poland, +48 22

Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, London

+27 11 325 5601

Melbourne, Australia, +61 3 9670 3884

EUROPE & SCANDINAVIA Bucherer, Kärtnerstrasse 2, 1010 Vienna, Austria, +43 1 51 26 730, bucherer.com Kruzik Uhren-Juwelen, Universitätsplatz 8, 5020 Salzburg, Austria, +43 662 842150, uhrenkruzik.at De Witte, Rue au Beurre 22, 1000 Brussels, Belgium, +32 2 512 85 85, pdewitte.be De Witte, Rue de l’Eglise 153, 1150 Brussels, Belgium, +32 2 771 58 77, pdewitte.be Altman, Vaclavske Namesti 28, 11000 Prague, Czech Republic, +420 354 430 128, altman.cz

bucherer.com

bucherer.com

bucherer.com

Germany, +49 89 23 88 54 60,

Altman, Prešovská 338/2, 30100 Pilsen,

bucherer.com

Czech Republic, +420 377 911 232,

Drubba Moments, Seestrasse 39,

altman.cz

79822 Titisee-Neustadt, Germany,

Hodinarstvi Bechyne, Václavské

+49 7651 9812-00, drubba.com

námestí 10, 11000 Prague 1, Czech

German Style Jeweler, Thomas-

Republic, +420 608 080 874, hodinarstvibechyne.cz Isabella Shop, Lazenska 24, 36001 Karlovy Vary, Czech Republic, +420 353 234 618, isabella-kv.cz Vladimir Bechyne s.r.o., Stepanska 630/57, 110 00 Prague 1, Czech Republic, +420 224 21 4349 Bucherer Illum, Østergade 52, 1001 Copenhagen, Denmark, bucherer.com

Wimmer-Ring 1, 80539 Munich, Germany, +49 89 23249289, gs-jeweler.com Juwelier Kühn, Kaiser-Joseph-Str. 211, 79098 Freiburg, Germany, +49 761 33810, juwelier-kuehn.de Juwelier Rödiger, Sack 3, 38100 Braunschweig, Germany, +49 531 43 474, juwelier-roediger.de Juwelier von Hofen, Königstrasse 42, 70173 Stuttgart, Germany, +49 711 29 09

Ajaton Kasarmikatu, 46-48, Helsinki,

88, vonhofen.com

Finland

Carl F. Bucherer Europe GmbH,

Bucherer, 12, Boulevard des Capucines,

Residenzstrasse 11, 80333 Munich,

75009 Paris, France, +33 1 70 99 1888,

Germany, +49 89 9233 99 280

bucherer.com

Bucherer Alsterhaus, Jungfernstieg

Faraday, 7 rue du Grenier Saint-Lazare,

16-20, 20354 Hamburg, Germany,

75003 Paris, France, +33 142 778998

bucherer.com

Paris Look, 16 boulevard Haussman,

Tagore, 172 Main Street, GX111AA

75009 Paris, France, +33 158 186130,

Gibraltar, +350 200 78505

paris-look.com

313 16 37, jubitom.com

W1A 1AB, UK, +44 20 7318 3830,

Jubitom, Galeria Mokotow Ul. Woloska

selfridges.com

12, 02 675 Warszawa, Poland, +48 225 413

Swisstec, Stonebridge House, Main

234, jubitom.com

Road, Hawkwell, Hockley SS5 4JH, UK,

Bijuteria GIA, Iulius Mall, str. A.

+44 1702 543800, swisstec.co.uk

Demetriade 1, 300088 Timisoara,

The Watch Gallery – Royal Opera

Romania, +40 256 210003

House, Bucherer Covent Garden,

El Corte Inglés, C/ Ramón Areces, S/N,

London WC2E 8HD, UK, +44 20 7952

29660 Puerto Banús, Marbella, Spain,

2040, thewatchgallery.com

+34 965 925 001, elcorteingles.es

Watches of Switzerland, 155 Regent

El Corte Inglés de Alicante, C/

Street, W1B 4AD London, UK, +44 20

Federico Soto 1 3, 3002 Alicante, Spain,

7534 9810, watches-of-switzerland.co.uk

Chrono Hellas Ltd., Delos Ora, 6

+34 965 92 5001, elcorteingles.es

Julian Joailliers, Galerie Espace

Voukourestiou Str., Syntagma 80333

Basel Gallery, 29 Saksaganskogo str.,

Diamant, 73120 Courchevel, France,

Athens, Greece, +30 210 36 29 832

El Corte Inglés de Princesa, Calle de la

Kiev, Ukraine, +38 44 287 60 83

+33 4 79 08 31 80, julian-joailliers.fr

Princesa 56, 28008 Madrid, Spain, +34 91

Chrono Hellas Ltd., 18 Petraki Str.,

418 88 00, elcorteingles.es

Noblesse Gallery, 55 Karla Marksa

Julian Joailliers, Passage du Port, 83990

Syntagma, 10563 Athens, Greece, +30

Saint Tropez, France, +33 4 94 97 20 27,

210 36 29 832

El Corte Inglés de Serrano, Calle

789 80 19, noblesse.com.ua

julian-joailliers.fr

Serrano 47, 28001 Madrid, Spain, +34 91

Appleby Jewellers, 5/6 Johnson’s Court,

432 54 90, elcorteingles.es

Noblesse Gallery, 73/75 Sums’ka str.,

Apollo, Schwangauer Strasse 1a, 87645

Grafton Street, Dublin 2, Ireland, +353

Schwangau, Germany, +49 8362 9242970

1679 9572, appleby.ie

Serviwatch, C/ Cavanilles, 5-6° A, 28007

Prosp., Dnipropetrovs’k, Ukraine, +38 56

Kharkiv, Ukraine, +38 57 702 13 00, noblesse.com.ua

Madrid, Spain, +34 91 444 80 20

64 1888 The Heritage Issue

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MANERO FLYBACK The mark of the Manero series in the collection by Carl F. Bucherer is a certain something with a classic look, and this is especially true for the Manero Flyback. A sophisticated chronograph movement with Flyback function ticks in a classic case made from warm 18-karat red gold. Stand-out feature Powered by the sophisticated CFB 1970 caliber with a power reserve of 42 hours, short-time measurement is controlled by a column wheel. Noblesse Gallery, 2 Chervonoarmiys’ka

Status, Bolshoy pr t, P.S. 60, 199178 St.

Bucherer, Schwanenplatz 5, 6002

Swiss Lion, Mountain Station Pilatus,

str., Kiev, Ukraine, +38 44 234 19 32,

Petersburg, +7 812 232 3978

Lucerne, +41 41 369 77 00, bucherer.com

6010 Kriens, +41 41 888 00 88,

noblesse.com.ua

Sterh, TC Forum, Frunze Ave 90, 634061

Bucherer, Multergasse 15, 9004 St.

swisslion.com

Noblesse Gallery, Sady Peremogy

Tomsk, +7 3822 550 111

Gallen, +41 71 222 02 22, bucherer.com

Shopping Gallery, 10 th Kvitnya Square,

Studia Vremen, TC Hermes Plaza,

Bucherer, Via Maistra 17, 7500 St.

Malysheva str. 16, 620014 Yekaterinburg,

Moritz, +41 81 833 31 03, bucherer.com

+7 343 257 0225

Bucherer, Bahnhofstrasse 6, 3920

Studia Vremeni, 10 St. Radischeva,

Zermatt, +41 27 967 53 53, bucherer.com

620014 Yekaterinburg, +7 343 356 04 91

Bucherer, Bahnhofstrasse 50, 8001

Studia Vremeni, 21 St. Hohryakova,

Zurich, +41 44 211 26 35, bucherer.com

620014 Yekaterinburg, +7 343 376 54 97

Bucherer Airport Airside Center, 8060

Svetoch, Lenina str. 76, 183038

Zurich, +41 44 800 85 40, bucherer.com

Murmansk, +7 8152 45 6397

Bucherer AG – Carl F. Bucherer,

Time Hall, TRC Rio, Oktyabrskoy

Customer Service Gewerbestrasse 1,

Revolutsii str., 362, 140400 Kolomna,

2543 Lengnau, +41 32 653 29 05

+7 8498 616 9818

Bucherer, Quai du Mont Blanc 1, 1201

Odesa, Ukraine, +38 48 785 37 35, noblesse.com.ua Noblesse Gallery, 22a Zhukovskogo str., Odesa, Ukraine, +38 48 716 87 94, noblesse.com.ua Noblesse Gallery, 234 Lenina Prosp., Zaporizhya, Ukraine, +38 61 222 00 81, noblesse.com.ua Noblesse Watches & Jewellery, 1 Dorogozhitskaya Str., 04119 Kiev, Ukraine, +380 44 537 53 75 Royal Swiss, 14 Navoi Str, 100011 Tashkent, Uzbekistan, +998 7124124

Geneva, +41 22 732 31 18, bucherer.com SWITZERLAND Bucherer, Höheweg 39, 43 & 45,

RUSSIA Akademia Vremeni, Respubliki str. 131, bld. 4, 625048 Tyumen, +7 3452 503473 18 Karat, Chekhova pr, 35/30, 344006 Rostov on Don, +7 8632 250 1111 Makros Boutique, TC Vavilon, Ulyanovskaya, 18, 443001 Samara, +7 846 278 4233 Mir Chasov, 71 St. Yaragskogo, 367003 Makhachkala, +7 8722 615737 Rich Time Group, Smolensky Passage Smolenskaya Square 3, 121099 Moscow, +7 495 785 55 15, carl-f-bucherer.com Salon Image, Vorovskogo St., 4, 354000 Sochi, +7 862266 54 82 Savoy, Mira St., 14, 357500 Pyatigorsk, +7 879333 55 88 Status, Liteinyi pr t, 27, 191028 St. Petersburg, +7 812 327 2500

3800 Interlaken, +41 33 826 02 02, bucherer.com Bucherer Jelmoli – The House of Brands, Bahnhofstrasse Postfach, 8021 Zurich, +41 44 211 88 18, bucherer.com Bucherer, Freie Strasse 40, 4051 Basel, +41 61 261 40 00, bucherer.com Bucherer, Marktgasse 2, 3011 Bern, +41 31 328 90 90, bucherer.com Bucherer, Promenade 69, 7270 Davos, +41 81 410 00 50, bucherer.com Bucherer, 45, Rue du Rhône, 1204 Geneva, +41 22 319 62 66, bucherer.com Bucherer, 1, Rue de Bourg, 1002 Lausanne, +41 21 312 36 12, bucherer.com Bucherer, Piazza Grande, 6600 Locarno, +41 91 751 86 48, bucherer.com Bucherer, Via Nassa 56, 6900 Lugano, +41 91 923 14 24, bucherer.com

Carl F. Bucherer, Grendelstrasse 8, 6004 Lucerne, Switzerland, +41 41 228 8888/6 Kurz, 11, rue de la Conféderation, 1204 Geneva, +41 22 311 70 76, kurzschmuckuhren.ch Kurz, Freie Strasse 39, 4001 Basel, +41 61 269 60 60, kurzschmuckuhren.ch Kurz, Spitalgasse 38, 3011 Bern, +41 31 311 04 22, kurzschmuckuhren.ch Kurz, Glattzentrum Neue Winterthurerstrasse 99, 8301 Wallisellen, +41 43 233 30 50, kurzschmuckuhren.ch Kurz, Weggisgasse 25, 6004 Lucerne, +41 41 419 40 20, kurzschmuckuhren.ch Kurz, Bahnhofstrasse 80, 8001 Zurich, +41 44 211 25 77, kurzschmuckuhren.ch Swiss Lion, Löwenplatz 11, 6004 Lucerne, +41 41 410 61 81, swisslion.ch Swiss Lion, Bergstation Titlis, 6030 Engelberg, +41 41 372 10 90, swisslion.ch

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TURN BACK TIME: 130 YEARS

Clockwise from left Carl Friedrich Bucherer; in the 1920s the family opened a new store on Schwanenplatz; this elegant ladies’ watch, made in 1920, is one of the watchmaker’s first timepieces

Carl F. Bucherer returns to Lucerne for its 130th birthday in 2018 Time is constant, but some dates are more important than others. In 2018, Carl F. Bucherer celebrates a significant birthday: 130 years ago, Carl Friedrich Bucherer opened his first shop in Lucerne. At a time when the popularity of pocket watches was surging, the store on Falkenplatz selling watches and jewellery soon became too small, and the company eventually relocated to Schwanenplatz, where it can be found to this day.

In 1913, Ernst and Carl Eduard Bucherer followed in their father’s footsteps and opened a goldsmith studio in Berlin. It was there they caught the attention of the emperor and became suppliers to the royal court. This golden era was marked by the launch of their first collection of ladies’ watches in 1919. New models became available at the Bucherer stores under the name C. Bucherer. In the 1920s, the entrepreneurial sons returned to their parents’ shop in Switzerland, where business was booming. Next, the family opened shops in Interlaken and Lugano. Since then the company has expanded all over the world. And in 2017, Carl F. Bucherer returned to its roots with the opening of a new boutique in Lucerne. carl-f-bucherer.com

66 1888 The Heritage Issue

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The heritage issue 2017 en  
The heritage issue 2017 en  

Magazine by Carl F. Bucherer. Edition in English.