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No9

BY CARL F. BUCHERER

Patravi ScubaTec

A sense of Depth Q&A with

Arnold Schwarzenegger Feature story

All the treasure of the

South Seas


INSIGHT Nº9

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26 3

EDITORIAL:

Sascha Moeri, CEO Bucherer Montres S.A.

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FEATURE STORY:

All the treasure of the South Seas

10 NEW PRODUCTS: Patravi ScubaTec

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VISITING:

The Caribbean

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SPONSORSHIP:

A colorful mosaic in the Indian Ocean

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Q&A:

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MARKET NEWS:

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VISITING:

With Arnold Schwarzenegger Partnership with a future Zurich

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VISIONS:

All the Time in the World

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VIEWPOINT:

More than skin deep

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NEW PRODUCTS:

Manero ChronoPerpetual

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14 IMPRESSUM INSIGHT by Carl F. Bucherer Issue 9 | March 2014 Published by Carl F. Bucherer a brand of Bucherer Montres S.A. Langensandstrasse 27 CH-6002 Luzern Tel. +41 41 369 70 70 Fax +41 41 369 70 72 insight@carl-f-bucherer.com www.carl-f-bucherer.com Project management and editorial team Bucherer Montres S.A., Luzern Convensis Group, Stuttgart Art Direction Kerstin Vorwalter, Ulm

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EDITORIAL

DEAR READER, in this issue, we invite you to take the plunge and enter the exciting world of Carl F. Bucherer. One of the outstanding highlights that awaits you is the new Patravi ScubaTec, a distinctive sports watch inspired by the fascination of diving and itself a source of fascination. Our feature story on diving in the Philippines shows how convincingly the Patravi ScubaTec delivers on its promises. The archipelago is home to one of the ocean’s greatest treasures – a treasure which, according to the Persian poet Rumi, only true divers can ever find. “If you wish to find a pearl, you do not seek it in a puddle. If you are in search of pearls, you must go to the bottom of the sea.” It is a quest that calls for passion and persistence, and one we are happy to share with you here. Passion also drives actor, politician and watch enthusiast Arnold Schwarzenegger. In our interview, he talks about a checkered and successful career that has taken his fame way beyond national borders. That Carl F. Bucherer enjoys a similar kind of success is a source of pride. It is another indication that we are on the right track for the future. Our aim is to develop progressive ideas and make watches that leave their home in Switzerland to take the world by storm. As examples of what we mean, we present the Bucherer boutique in Zurich and a watch and jewelry store in the Caribbean. Perhaps the last-named destination will persuade you to – literally – take the plunge, with the Patravi ScubaTec as your reliable dive buddy. I wish you a deeply satisfying reading experience.

Best regards,

Sascha Moeri, CEO Bucherer Montres S.A.

INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº9 – 3


FEATURE STORY

All the treasure of the The Philippines

South Seas

Pearls are one of nature’s miracles, beautiful, gently faceted spheres that reflect incident light to perfection. Much time passes before they can be retrieved from the depths of the ocean.

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TEARS OF THE GODS AND DROPS OF LIGHT. The iridescent beauty of pearls has enchanted human beings since the dawn of time, for the mystery and fascination they exude has given rise to countless legends. The Persians revered the mystic, radiating gleam of pearls as the “tears of the gods”. The Greeks saw in them glittering dewdrops fallen from heaven during nights lit up by the full moon. Ancient Chinese folklore describes them as the purest of all jewels, as drops of light. No wonder, then, that pearls have always held a special place in the hearts of human beings; they have adorned themselves in the shimmering magnificence of pearls for thousands of years. They were symbols of prosperity and eternal elegance, and, of course, the insignia of power. A legend tells of Cleopatra, the last queen of Egypt, who wagered with Marc Antony that she could serve up the most lavish banquet in the history of the world. To her guests’ surprise, it consisted merely of a small dish of vinegar. But Cleopatra transformed it into a precious essence, as valuable as liquid gold, when she dissolved a huge pearl in the liquid. It was a gesture of pure luxury and indulgence.

However, these perfectly formed gems of nature were rare and enormously difficult to obtain. Because pearls were hidden deep in the underwater world, finding and harvesting them represented an enormous challenge. Only a select few were prepared to venture into these depths. According to accounts left by the ancient Greek historian Herodotus, in the 5th century B.C. a diver named Scyllis dove to the bottom of the ocean at the behest of Xerxes, King of the

Persians. He did so without oxygen, without technical aids, all on a single lungful of air. For these first divers, retrieving treasure from the seabed was a dangerous undertaking. Nevertheless, they reached impressive depths, going as far down as 70 meters. To this day, pearls have lost none of this irresistible fascination. Created by nature inherently beautiful, they require no human’s touch to cut or polish them.

INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº9 – 5


feature Story

Cultivating pearls is an art.

6 – Insight by Carl F. Bucherer Nº9


They are perfection itself, and each is unique. The world of pearls is one of infinite variety and constitutes a shimmering vista of colors ranging from silvery white, creamy gold and pink to dark green and black. They vary, too, in shape and size, and only very few pearls are perfectly spherical. Oval and dropshaped pearls can be breathtakingly beautiful, while baroque pearls, whose fine crystalline layers create irregular structures and fascinating refractions of light, have their own inimitable charm. Natural pearls are extremely rare. Countless oysters need to be opened to find a single, perfectly formed teardrop of the gods. Their genesis was always purely fortuitous, a whimsy of nature. In the early 20th century, it finally became possible to overcome happenstance and cultivate pearls artificially, making these rare treasures accessible at last. In what is a fairly complex process, the oysters are stimulated to secrete numerous delicate, shimmering layers of nacre, resulting in a jewel of a very special kind.

Pearls and their mystic aura

Pearls have been a universal symbol of love, joy and happiness since time immemorial. In ancient Rome, women wore pearls in bed to protect themselves against bad dreams. The Greeks once dedicated them to Aphrodite, the goddess of love, and the Buddhists believed that “wish-fulfilling” pearls were one of the eight most precious things in life. To this day, their magical appeal continues.

Among the world’s most valuable and beautiful cultivated pearls are the fabulous South Sea pearls, which, with a diameter of up to 20 millimeters, can hardly fail to impress. Depending on the area where they are grown, the pearls come in a variety of magnificent colors. Fabulous examples in a delicate creamy gold, which gives the pearls a gorgeous, warm glow, can be found among other places in the Philippines. Since the 1970s, a successful South Sea pearl industry has developed on the archipelago in the Pacific Ocean. The farms employ many different types of specialists, from biologists to divers, with a common goal: to create

perfect pearls. Cultivating pearls is an art. Creating such a precious and sought-after product calls for the utmost care, extreme patience and scientific precision, but above all, an enormous amount of luck. INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº9 – 7


FEATURE STORY After all, only 30 percent of the oysters treated will actually produce a pearl. Of these, only 10 percent are beautiful enough to sell, 3 percent are completely spherical and just one in 200 pearls meets the highest quality criteria. Around 6,000 oysters need to be treated to find 30 perfect, round pearls. Visitors to the pearl farms run by Jewelmer, an international jewelry company renowned for the high quality of its golden South Sea pearls, are initiated into the secrets of pearl farming. Cultivating pearls is a complicated business. A tiny fragment of foreign tissue is carefully introduced into the oysters, perhaps accompanied by a tiny mother-of-pearl bead, depending on whether we are treating an oyster with or without a nucleus. In order to protect itself, the oyster covers the intruder with thousands of incredibly delicate,

8 – INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº9

transparently iridescent coats of the mineral aragonite. Much time will pass before the foreign object is transformed into a magnificent pearl. The oysters are carefully tended between two and six years until one of the perfect jewels can be harvested. The oysters are housed in countless baskets attached to long lines reaching several hundred meters into the ocean. Every day, professional divers spend hours under water tending the delicate mollusks. The baskets are painstakingly checked, the oysters carefully turned over and their shells freed of algae. The work in the ocean is challenging and exhausting, which makes it all the more exciting. Having the right equipment is particularly important for the divers’ safety. Apart from a dive suit and mask, they always wear a top-quality diver’s watch, to help

them keep track of dive time, which is absolutely crucial. Although pearl farming is dependent on having the right technical equipment, it must also be in harmony with nature. Pearl oysters are extremely susceptible to changes in their immediate environment and require very good water quality as well as optimum temperatures. If this delicate balance is upset, it is drastically apparent in the resulting pearl production. Pollution, typhoons and earthquakes likewise result in drastic losses. Pearls, after all, are one of nature’s gifts, not a man-made product. So seen, these precious jewels are not only a fabulous form of ornamentation, steeped in ancient legend, but also a reflection of the world and habitat in which they were conceived.


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new products

10 – Insight by Carl F. Bucherer Nº9


A sense of depth Patravi ScubaTec

The infinite depths of the ocean are a source of fascination and in many of us awaken a sense of adventure. Multicolored coral reefs, mysterious underwater landscapes and bizarre fauna and flora are an irresistible attraction to divers and researchers. But exploring and experiencing the underwater world in all its beauty calls for professional equipment. Apart from a compressed air tank and a neoprene suit, it includes a watch designed to withstand the rigorous demands of diving. Carl F. Bucherer took on the challenge of building such a timepiece. The result is the Patravi ScubaTec: a timepiece that radiates its very own sense of depth. From idea to product Turning the initial notion for a diver’s watch into the finished and fully functional Patravi ScubaTec involved countless design approaches. In the end, it took Carl F. Bucherer’s product developers and watchmakers no less than two years of thinking and untiring effort to come up with the new timepiece. Two years does not seem all that long when

we consider the countless different stages involved in creating a watch from the germ of an idea. Once the basic decision to develop a diver’s watch has been made, the next step is to decide on the necessary features: a helium valve, strap adjustment and optimum legibility, for example. These considerations go hand in hand with initial questions relevant to the design. What diameter should the case be? What combination of materials is best suited to the various conditions to which the watch will be subject in use. It was soon clear that the ScubaTec would be a strikingly masculine watch, totally in keeping with the other models in the Patravi line. The developers soon agreed upon a stainless steel case with a diameter of 44.6 millimeters. The first concrete designs followed. Many proposals were rejected or modified. The development team devoted much of their time to the design features on which divers must constantly keep an eye – the dial, hands and bezel – and which supply information crucial to their safety. The final product would have to be perfect, both in function and design. The first prototypes were produced on the basis of sketches and models. Insight by Carl F. Bucherer Nº9 – 11


NEW PRODUCTS

This initial stage often shows where potential problems might lie and gives an indication of any necessary modifications and improvements. Finally, the time has come for the real thing. The production of the bezel, with its ceramic blue and black inlays, proved to be particularly complicated. A team of experienced professionals worked on the elaborate manufacturing process with one aim to view: to ensure that the finished product was as close to perfection as possible. During the first stage, the casemaker punches the bezel and shapes it. After this, another craftsman skilfully engraves the bezel. It is now time for the cavities to be filled with the hightech ceramic developed specially for Carl F. Bucherer and then sintered. This process is repeated several times. In order to achieve a flawless sheen and an absolutely smooth surface, the bezel is finally diamond-polished. The result of this complex and highly specialized process is a bezel with an immaculate and even surface. A CHARISMATIC DIVE WATCH The final product is a watch that is equipped to take any dive in its stride, boasting details that underscore its symbolic value. For just like the many discoveries to be made on the seabed, the back of the watchcase, too, has a special feature of its own: a three-dimensional engraving of two rays. Even when worn on land, the bracelet – a combination of mirror-polished and matte stainless steel – creates an intriguing interplay of light and shadow that recalls the glittering surface of the ocean. The attention to detail that has gone into the Patravi ScubaTec can also be seen in the blue tone on the bezel. This particular shade of blue was created exclusively for Carl F. Bucherer and decorates the dial, the notch in the crown and the luminescent appliqués on the indices and hands. Obviously, the color is reminiscent of the ocean and thus symbolic of the timepiece’s intended use. But its true significance goes even deeper. The color also recalls the town of Lucerne, whose coat of arms includes a similar shade of blue. In this way, Carl F. Bucherer demonstrates its close links with its hometown. And the Patravi ScubaTec its own sense of depth.

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A TIMEPIECE THAT RADIATES ITS VERY OWN SENSE OF DEPTH.

INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº9 – 13


VISITING

Visiting The

Caribbean

St Thomas pulses with life. The cosmopolitan flair of the island in the Caribbean Sea attracts countless international visitors, and its harbor is a destination for cruise ships from all over the world. Its lively streets are lined with stores that have something to satisfy every taste.

As we follow the colorful main street through town, we hit upon a jewelry store whose windows are a treasure-trove of exquisite jewelry and watchmaking. At its three branches on St Thomas, the aptly named Jewels store offers customers the widest range of premium brands available in the U.S. Virgin Islands. Here, in the Jewels boutique at the center of the Islands’ capital, Charlotte Amalie, not far from the bay, INSIGHT by Carl F. Bucherer met up with jeweler and watch expert Dean Bump at his place of work. 14 – INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº9

Dean Bump is in his element when surrounded by luxury watches. He proudly indicates the masterpieces of watchmaking elegantly laid out in the display cases. His enthusiasm for the job can be seen in his eyes. Clearly moved, he tells us about his early days in the industry. He read countless books about watches and in time turned himself into a connoisseur and devotee of fine timepieces while also making a name for himself as a journalist. “For me, watches are micromechanical works of art”, he explains. Works of art that help us to make tangible a

concept as difficult to understand as time. “Clocks and watches help us to decide how and when we want to make use of our time.” For Dean Bump, the time he is able to spend with his family is at the top of his list of priorities. He lives with them on the island of St Thomas, which he calls one of the most beautiful places on earth. His life before he settled on the island, with its mountainous landscapes and fabulous ocean views, was relatively eventful. Born in Germany and adopted by an American opera singer, he lived first in the Netherlands and then in the


still in family hands, which our watch connoisseur considers to be a major advantage. “Always bang up to date without being a slave to fashion”: for him Carl F. Bucherer is a perfect example of an independent company that resolutely goes its own way while keeping a close eye on the details. Carl F. Bucherer’s customers also share this philosophy, because they are always on

Jeweler and Watch expert Dean Bump

“FOR ME, WATCHES ARE MICROMECHANICAL WORKS OF ART.”

the lookout for something out of the ordinary, as Dean Bump explains. “In my experience, a typical Carl F. Bucherer customer looks for a watch he isn’t likely to see all his friends wearing: he doesn’t simply want to go with the flow.” When Dean Bump recommends a model from Carl F. Bucherer to a client, he is opting for a unique kind of luxury watch that brings together typically Swiss values: “Precision, a love of detail, beauty and functionality”, is how he sums up the outstanding qualities that turn a watch from Carl F. Bucherer into something out of the ordinary. He too has his own particular favorite, a watch that never ceases to fascinate him: with its exclusive movement and special design, the Patravi T-Graph is one of the models at the very heart of the brand. “Its tonneau shape gives it an incomparable character of its own.” With his experience, expertise and genuine enthusiasm for the various models, Dean Bump can always find the right watch for every customer, and even for himself.

Places to see Magens Bay

Magens Bay has a white sandy beach stretching three-quarters of a mile, surrounded by green hills and palms, which is completely free of hotels and is also regularly chosen by National Geographic as one of the ten most beautiful beaches in the world. www.magensbayauthority.com

The 99 Steps

The capital, Charlotte Amalie, is renowned for streets consisting entirely of steps. The best known of these is 99 Steps (which actually has 103 steps) and is close to Blackbeard’s Castle.

Paradise Point

The viewpoint on the island’s south coast is reached by cable car and offers a breathtaking panorama that takes in the surrounding countryside, the port and the old town: the perfect spot for unforgettable sunsets.

Fort Christian

Fort Christian, built between 1672 and 1680, is the oldest building in the Virgin Islands and, in its long history, has served as a seat of government, a prison, a police station and a court. Today it houses a museum.

Restaurant: Room with a View

Guests can enjoy outstanding cuisine with a selection of the finest wines and the a spectacular view of the bay and the city lights. www.roomwithaviewvi.com

INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº9 – 15

Photo: © GettyImages.com (1)

U.S., where he studied music and met his wife. Here, on St Thomas, he passes on his fascination for watches to his customers, individually and personally. “I like people, and I love being able to help them find the right thing for themselves”, is how Dean Bump describes the special attraction his job holds for him. Thanks to the sound professional advice offered at Jewels, customers are not only able to fulfill their wishes but often discover new ones they were unaware of before entering the store. The choice is enormous: As the jewel in the crown of the Little Switzerland store chain, Jewels stocks a huge range of outstanding brands from the world of luxury jewelry. This impresses a clientele that attaches enormous importance to the more beautiful things in life. Of all the luxury timepieces Dean Bump recommends to his customers, he is particularly partial to the models from Carl F. Bucherer. Like Jewels, Carl F. Bucherer is


SPONSORSHIP

A COLORFUL Mauritius MOSAIC IN THE INDIAN OCEAN It is a kaleidoscope for the senses: the impressive mountain ranges and the lush green of the sugar cane plantations take your breath away. The sun caresses your skin and transforms the sea into a myriad nuances of color. The gentle lapping of the waves, fine white sand: the tropical island of Mauritius in the Indian Ocean is fascinating, multifaceted and simply beautiful. Mark Twain expressed his admiration for the island when he wrote: ”Mauritius was made first and then Heaven; and Heaven was copied after Mauritius.“

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Marché Central in Port Louis

The market at the heart of the island’s capital is a cornucopia of fresh herbs, fruit and vegetables, and holds an irresistible appeal for all the senses.

Natural History Museum

The Museum is housed in the “Mauritius Institute”’s colonial-style villa and provides a comprehensive overview of the island’s impressive fauna and flora. The Museum was founded in 1842, making it the oldest institution of its kind on Mauritius. http://www.nhm.ac.uk

Père Laval’s tomb

The shrine and grave of the French Catholic priest Jacques Désiré Laval has become one of the most popular places of pilgrimage in the western Indian Ocean. Catholics together with the faithful of all other religions gather together at the tomb of the national saint.

Wining and dining

Guests at the “Le Pescatore” in the Trou aux Biches area sit in sophisticated surroundings on the terrace directly adjacent to the jetty and take in the fabulous views over the sea. Locals recommend “Le Pescatore” as the island’s best fine-dining experience. http://pescatore.restaurant.mu/

Sega

Sega is a very popular dance style on the island. It grew out of the traditional folk music of Mauritius and La Réunion. In Pailles Valley, just a few minutes from Port Louis, is the Domaine “Les Pailles”. Visitors to the historic sugar plantation can enjoy demonstrations of Sega dancing and revel in the unique atmosphere of bygone days.

contest Win eight nights at the fabulous Maradiva Villas Resort & Spa. Enter the ”INSIGHT by Carl F. Bucherer“ lucky drawing for the chance to win an unforgettable stay at the Maradiva Villas Resort & Spa for two. You and your partner can savor Mauritius at its most beautiful in a private luxury villa, including half board, and enjoy a dream vacation in the Indian Ocean. Enter now for your chance to win: www.carl-f-bucherer.com Or please send the attached subscription coupon for ”INSIGHT by Carl F. Bucherer“ to Carl F. Bucherer to take part in the drawing automatically. Closing date for entries: July, 31 2014. Further information about Maradiva Villas Resort & Spa: www.maradiva.com Employees of Bucherer Montres S.A. are not eligible for the contest. The draw will take place under the supervision of a notary. There are no cash equivalents for prizes. All decisions are final. One entry per person.

– the various cultural influences unite to create a heady combination of flavors. With the excitement of your experiences still fresh in your mind, the day draws to a close, and it is time to relax and enjoy a cocktail as you watch the brilliant colors of the evening draw in. The perfect place from which to savor the spectacle of the deep red sunset is the luxurious and relaxed atmosphere found at the luxurious Maradiva Villas Resort & Spa. Ideally situated on the pulsating west coast of the island, which has a dry, warm climate all year round, the 65 villa-style suites offer a unique form of relaxation. The fantastic spa and wellness center, tropical gardens, a full range of activities and a luxurious pool complex impress guests from all over the world. Combined with the magnificent views of the Indian Ocean and the mountain panorama, your stay at the Maradiva Villas Resort & Spa guarantees you a dream vacation in a class of its own. INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº9 – 19

Photos: © Corbisimages.com (1)

Places to be

The enthusiasm is echoed in every detail. Influences from France, India, Africa and Asia have turned the island into a melting pot of many different cultures. The incredible variety of customs and philosophies leave the visitor with a mosaic of impressions: mosques stand shoulder to shoulder with Hindu temples; the fiery rhythms of the island’s Sega music compete with hits from the French charts. The many different religious and cultural festivals guarantee a rich program of festivals that give Mauritius its colorful and dynamic face. Thanks to its pleasant tropical climate, the volcanic island of Mauritius is also the perfect venue for seaside vacations. The spotless sandy beaches are beyond all comparison. One of the most beautiful can be found at Tamarin Bay. Your gaze sweeps across the infinite white sands and lush green palm trees. The water glitters with every movement, salty pearls running over your face. But Mauritius is not only about relaxation. It’s also about adventure: in the water, on land or even up in the air. Whatever their preference, sports enthusiasts are in their element. Beneath the surface, you dive into a world of fascination. Coral reefs teeming with shellfish, fish in all the colors of the rainbow, bizarre plant life: the ocean hides all kinds of undiscovered and mysterious treasures. Meanwhile, above water, surfers ride surging waves that have nothing to slow their progress. Speed. Power. Adrenaline. It is a sport that unites the love of risk with pure euphoria. Whether you go for the adventure or simply for the wonderful feel of warm sand between your toes, the island guarantees you an unforgettable vacation. One of the most exciting attractions is the colorful marketplace in Port Louis. It may seem inconspicuous from the outside, but inside lies a different world. Behind its gates is a bazaar of colors, fragrances and flavors. People scuttle busily through the aisles, merchants ply their wares, and the gaily colored market stalls lure buyers with fresh, delicious-tasting specialties. This is where you find local life at its most natural and beautiful. The tempting smells wafting from the market entice you onto a voyage of culinary discovery. What else could make a foreign culture come alive more vibrantly than the taste of an unknown specialty? And on Mauritius, the choice is enormous: African vegetables, Indian curries, French baguettes


Q&A

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Q&A with

rnold

Schwarzen egger

PERSONAL How do your Austrian roots influence your life? What meaning do they have to you? Let’s not forget that it was in Austria that I created my vision. It was there that I developed my discipline and the will to succeed. So Austria will always be my home. It will always have a special place in my heart. I often tell people that I have two brains – my Austrian brain and my American brain. I look at everything through both lenses, and I think that has been a great benefit to me throughout my life.

Watch enthusiasts among themselves: Dolph Lundgren, Sylvester Stallone, Arnold Schwarzenegger and Jean-Claude Van Damme.

What are your hobbies? I consider all of my professions hobbies. The truth is, I would have done all of them for free - bodybuilding, acting, and of course I didn’t accept my salary as Governor. That’s the fantastic thing about following your passion - when you truly love what you do, your work is a hobby. I also love to play chess and pool. I collect – art and watches, as you know, but also boots, belt buckles, flasks, and cigar humidors, lighters, cutters… You name it. INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº9 – 21


Q&A I really appreciate craftsmanship, so I love to look at a beautiful watch and imagine the expert watchmaker spending years upon years making it perfect. Was or is there a “best time of your life”? I would say seeing each of my children being born. Becoming a father is like nothing else in the world. But beyond that, as far as my careers, one of my philosophies is that you have to stay hungry. So I always believe that the best time of my life is just ahead. I rarely take time to look back and relish those moments because it is much more exciting for me to move forward into the unknown. You are very involved with charitable causes. What are your favorite charities and causes? Giving back is so gratifying that it becomes an addiction. I love some of the traditional charities, like the Red Cross. You have to appreciate anytime a charity spends 90 percent of their budget on their programs. I also recently sent a check to the Wounded

Mr. Universe and actress Sally Field.

22 – INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº9

Warrior Project, because I believe in supporting our real action heroes after they have come home. And I also have my own causes. I started After-School All-Stars more than 20 years ago to provide safe and fulfilling after-school programs to the children who need them most. After my work as Governor of California, to fight climate change, I started the R20, Regions of Climate Action to promote our regional approach around the world. And recently I established the USC Schwarzenegger Institute to continue to fight for issues that were important to me as Governor.

CAREER Who are some of the role models who influenced you? I am the luckiest man in the world, because I’ve had the opportunity to meet all of my idols and learn from their wisdom in person.

One of my early role models was Reg Park, who was a bodybuilder who won Mr. Universe and then got into the movies as Hercules. When I read his story in a magazine in Austria, I felt like I’d found the blueprint for my life. Another role model was Joe Weider, the publisher of the magazine that originally inspired me. His magazines showed me my vision and dreams when I was young and then he brought me to America to realize those dreams. I also idolized Muhammad Ali because not only was he the best fighter of all time, but he was also the most giving and generous. In your life, you have held many professions. What do professional sports, show business and politics have in common? It really doesn’t matter the profession. I have five principles that have helped me. 1. Have a vision. 2. Think big. 3. Ignore the naysayers. 4. Work like hell. 5. Give back. No matter what you do, those five rules apply, and in my bodybuilding, film, and political careers they made everything possible. I learned all of those rules in bodybuilding, and I applied them to all of my careers. Have a vision. Everything starts with vision. Once you have yours, you know where you are headed and it makes the hard work easy. Whether I wanted to be a bodybuilding champion or win my first election, I saw my vision in front of me. Think big. Thinking small will always limit you. Forget the limits. When I was Governor and I wanted to build infrastructure, the lawmakers thought I meant a few roads here and there. I was talking about bridges, a high-speed rail, new university and school buildings, affordable housing, new prisons, a whole new transportation system and other infrastructure projects. And that’s exactly what we did, because we didn’t think small. Ignore the naysayers. Anytime you have a big vision, people will doubt you. Keep moving forward. When I wanted to become a movie star, people said, “An overly-developed monster named Schwarzenschnitzel with that accent will never be a leading man”. Good thing I didn’t listen and I worked hard and proved them wrong.


THE 5 PRINCIPLES OF ARNOLD SCHWARZENEGGER

Actor turns statesman: Schwarzenegger as Governor of California.

With the iconic movie “The Terminator” Arnold Schwarzenegger wrote film history.

Body builders Franco Columbu and Arnold Schwarzenegger flex their muscles.

HAVE A VISION. THINK BIG. IGNORE THE NAYSAYERS. WORK LIKE HELL. GIVE BACK.

Work like hell. It is all about repetitions, in the gym and in life. Reps, reps, reps. I learned early to love work, because it helped me achieve my vision. Never look for a shortcut. Work as hard as you can. Give back. This is the most important rule. Leave the world a better place than you found it. You don’t have to run for office, but you can easily tutor a kid or help teach sports at a needy school. How was it to do the «Expendables» movies and «Escape Plan» with your friend Sylvester Stallone? I love to work with Sly. We’ve become great friends over the years and he is obviously a terrific actor and a wonderful human being. He is truly a renaissance man - a great producer, writer, actor and director who also is an amazing painter. He sells his paintings for hundreds of thousands of dollars. But we still have some of our old competitiveness, so every time we work together, we push each other for the best performance. It works out perfectly for us and for the fans. Talking about competition, even with watches it never ends. When we ask each other what time it is, what we are really saying is, “Wait until you see what I’ve got on my wrist today.” How did you find your way into politics? When you move to a new country and you’re accepted with open arms, there is a natural inclination to give back. So I started with Special Olympics, then I chaired the President’s Council on Physical Fitness and Sports, and then 20 years ago I started the after-school programs, and finally the ultimate opportunity to serve the public was

right in front of me. When California was having trouble, I decided that it was time for me to become a full-time public servant. Those seven years as Governor were some of the most fulfilling of my life. To come to work every day and work on different problems to try to help the people of California … it was a real joy. What is next for you in terms of the R20, your environmental engagement and your continued involvement with bodybuilding and fitness? I always said when I was finished competing in bodybuilding, I wasn’t finished working out or promoting bodybuilding and fitness, and when I was finished being Governor, my interest in serving the people was not finished, so I haven’t stopped after-school programs or fighting climate change. The work never ends. Now, I have two crusades - my fitness crusade and my green energy crusade. I will continue to push other regions to move forward to a clean, green economy through the R20. And I will continue to push health and fitness through the Arnold Classics all over the world, being the executive editor of Muscle and Fitness magazine, and my new supplement line, The Arnold Series, with MusclePharm. Always add, never subtract. Now it is time to … keep moving forward one step at a time. In this instance, that means working out.

INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº9 – 23

Photos: © AP Associated Press (1), © Corbisimages.com (4)

1. 2. 3. 4. 5.


MARKET NEWS

Partnership with a future Cortina Watch and Carl F. Bucherer Achieving major goals calls for strong partners who share a common path as well as the same visions and aspirations. This is the foundation on which the cooperation between Cortina Watch and Carl F. Bucherer, announced in Thailand in November 2013, is based. Their partnership was greeted with massive celebrations.

The Siam Paragon in Thailand, also known as the Pride of Bangkok, is the kingdom’s most luxurious shopping complex. Located at the heart of the capital, it draws thousands of visitors, shoppers and sightseers every day. Covering some half a million square meters and housing countless stores and the boutiques of celebrated brands from all over the world, the Siam Paragon is understandably a massive attraction. It also offers over a dozen cinemas and more than 50 bowling alleys. A further popular feature is the

subterranean aquarium, where visitors can admire all the magnificent variety of the world’s oceans. One of the other highlights at the Siam Paragon is the Carl F. Bucherer flagship store, where the fabulous timepieces made by the Swiss watch manufacturer are on display in an area measuring some 50 square meters. The Thai market is particularly important for the Lucerne-based company, which is the reason why it has teamed up with Cortina

From left to right: Mr. Sascha Moeri, CEO, Carl F. Bucherer, Mr. Buddy Chatikaratana, Chairman Cortina Watch Thailand, H. E. Mrs. Christine Schraner Burgener, Swiss Ambassador to Thailand, Mr. Benno Kueng, Director of Tourism, Bucherer, Mr. Krist Chatikaratana, Executive Director, Cortina Watch Thailand.

24 – INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº9

Watch Thailand. Cortina Watch is one of the leading retailers and distributors in Asia and enjoys an excellent reputation with its business associates. Sascha Moeri, CEO of Carl F. Bucherer, is keenly aware of the company’s qualities. “With over 40 years’ experience as specialist watch retailers and its proven ability to adapt to changing markets, Cortina is not only extremely familiar with the industry but also has a huge network. Cortina Watch is the ideal partner for us in Thailand.”

June Sawitri led through the glamorous event.


The start of the partnership was celebrated with a dazzling event at the Hotel Oriental Residence. Guests included leading figures from business and politics as well as watch connoisseurs and fans of the brand. June Sawitri, star of many television shows and a widely recognized icon in the worlds of fashion and beauty, compered the event. Carl F. Bucherer also unveiled the spectacular new products launched to mark its parent company Bucherer’s 125th jubilee. Apart from this, there was an exhibition of successful models running through the company’s history from its beginning to the present day. Timepieces from epochs throughout the last century to the present day reflect the values of Carl F. Bucherer: absolute reliability, the highest aspirations and visionary strength. These are also the values that underpin the brand’s partnership with Cortina Watch. Founded over 40 years ago by Anthony Lim, it is still – like the Carl F. Bucherer brand – family-owned. The basis of the partnership between the two companies is a shared philosophy. The quest for excellence and a striving for the highest possible quality in every respect are central to all that Cortina Watch and Carl F. Bucherer do. And they will be the cornerstone of their efforts as they join forces and embark on the journey to a successful future.

The boutique in the Siam Paragon complex.

Mr. Sompol Mingkhuan, Editor-in-Chief, Watch World-Wide, Dr. Chettha Songthaveepol, Mr. Krist Chatikaratana, Executive Director, Cortina Watch Thailand (from left to right).

125 YEARS book.

At the Diamond event Mr. Benno Kueng, Director of Tourism, Bucherer, is examining the authenticity of a diamond.

Ms. June Sawitri wears the Alacria Royal. On the wrist of the male model – the Manero Tourbillion.

INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº9 – 25


VISITING

Zurich: its quality of life is recognized as being among the highest in the world, and there are many different sides to its appeal. Situated in the eastern half of the Swiss Plateau, a region that cuts a horizontal swathe through the middle of the country, it is not only an important financial center but also boasts an idyllic geographical location and a beautiful and historic old town. The world-famous Bahnhofstrasse lies at the heart of Zurich. Once served by horse-drawn trams, today the upmarket shopping street draws flocks of tourists, shoppers and visitors simply out strolling or taking in the sights. Halfway along the avenue, between the lake and the main train station, is the Bucherer boutique. It was here, just before Christmas, that INSIGHT by Carl F. Bucherer met up with Tanja Fruithof, the store’s Managing Director. At this time of the year, she has her hands full. With Christmas just around the corner, the store attracts an endless stream of customers, and Tanja Fruithof clearly loves nothing more than looking after their needs. “I started my career in hotels,” she explains, “so I learned from an early age that every 26 – INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº9

single guest is important, and that doesn’t apply only to the hotel sector: in any service industry, the motto should always be: the guest is king.” Referring to her customers as “guests” is a habit that has remained with her since the time she was in charge of the “Les Trois Rois” hotel in Basel. Customers at the Bucherer store receive the same warm welcome. “It’s crucial for us that our guests feel comfortable, that they actually enjoy coming to see us.” This is the reason why she and her team attach so much importance to the details, whether it’s the lavish floral arrangements at the entrance or the lovingly decorated display windows. For her, this is all part and parcel of jewelry and watch retail. “The sparkle of diamonds has always enchanted me,” she confesses. Even as a young girl, she would take the occasional

peek into her mother’s jewelry case. The design and aesthetic appeal of the products also play a crucial role. “I’m fascinated by the mechanics and technology that go into watches, and the beauty of unusual jewelry touches me emotionally.” Tanja Fruithof is proud to have worked for almost five years with a company that brings together two of her greatest passions. Tanja is also keenly aware of how much Bucherer’s employees matter to the company. “I have a deep respect for Bucherer’s values and traditions, and for the fact that it stands up for its beliefs. I’m also very happy that we are so focused on what we do, and improve year to year.” Tanja Fruithof intends to establish the company as Zurich’s market leader, and there are plans for a major


Tanja Fruithof recommends:

Places to see Zürichberg

The hill that overlooks the city is perfect all year round for walking and relaxing. There’s the Dolder Grand Hotel and the zoo, the Dolder ice rink in winter and the golf course and jogging trails in summer.

Lindenhof

The park rises up above the city and has a special charm that never ceases to attract me. The view down onto the Fraumünster Church in particular is breathtaking.

Restaurant Pflugstein in Erlenbach

Jeannine Meili and her team offer guests fabulous cuisine, a warm welcome and sensational views over the Lake of Zurich.

Restaurant Bärengasse

They serve the best Wiener schnitzel and the best steak tartare in the whole city.

Zurich Film Festival

conversion in the near future. “That will turn us into a flagship store with international significance for the Bucherer Group – fitting, as an international clientele is becoming increasingly significant for the store. “We find it gratifying that Bucherer attracts so many international guests, and that it’s so popular with the Swiss. After all, around 50 percent of our clientele are Swiss nationals,” explains Fruithof.

2013, for instance, some of the staff teamed up to train for the half marathon, which takes place annually around a nearby lake. To achieve this, they met for practice runs early in the morning, and still occasionally run together. Sport also plays a significant part in Tanja Fruithof ’s own life. Apart from jogging, golf and skiing, she adores traveling abroad. “It’s stayed with me since my time in hotels: the pleasure of exploring foreign countries and feeling at home no matter where I am in the world.” And yet, despite 13 years in the hotel business and an MBA in London, Switzerland never lost its attraction. “I learned to appreciate so much more about Switzerland when I was abroad.” Quality, passion and ambition: for Tanja Fruithof, these are not only typically Swiss virtues but also the values embodied by Carl F. Bucherer. “I just love the brand. I have two models myself and wear them very often.” Her husband presented her with one of them, the Patravi ChronoDate, as a Christmas gift some years ago. “I was over the moon. I adore this model.”

“IT’S CRUCIAL FOR US THAT OUR GUESTS FEEL COMFORTABLE, THAT THEY ACTUALLY ENJOY COMING TO SEE US.” Tanja Fruithof is also justly proud of her staff, which now totals 110 employees. “We’re doing a fantastic job here and gaining more and more market share. That, no doubt, has to do with our outstanding service, and the fact that we all stick together.” For Tanja Fruithof, teamwork is a personal concern, and she is pleased that her staff spend time together even after shop opening hours. In

Tanja Fruithof, Managing Director of the Bucherer boutique Zurich

Tanja Fruithof is utterly devoted to her job. The fascination of the products, Bucherer’s values, and her daily contact with people who share her enthusiasm are the factors that make it easy for her to dedicate herself to her work with passion. INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº9 – 27

Photos: www.gataric.fotografie.ch, GettyImages.com

By now a well-established international event, this festival is exciting and high quality.


VISIONS

All the time in the world

Rinspeed

Time and travel: the stuff memories are made of. Where there is room for experience, and where knowledge unfolds. Time is luxury. Travel is valuable. Nevertheless, they are often opposites that are mutually exclusive. Because traveling eats up time. But is there now perhaps a way of saving this lost time?

Frank M. Rinderknecht is a visionary. For over 30 years, he and his company Rinspeed have been developing new, forward-looking approaches to mobility. And he has always had one aim in mind: to develop the ultimate driving machine. He has always been passionate about tweaking private, high-end cars: about making them faster, more powerful and more luxurious. But that’s not all: because Rinderknecht is also driven by the need to design and develop unique and original vehicles of his own. The production of concept cars and limited series like these is founded on sustainability and on innovative ideas that are intended to revolutionize the world of mobility. 28 – INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº9

The concept cars Frank M. Rinderknecht develops beggar all comparison. Whether it’s transparent bodywork, underwater operation or the possibility of transforming a car from a one- to a three-seater in a few simple steps, every model from Rinspeed opens up new perspectives. REALIZING A VISION The “XchangE”, a fascinating new concept car, comes with all the visionary brilliance and futuristic solutions we have come to expect of Rinspeed. The “XchangE” is about one thing in particular: the notion of driverless travel. With this model, Rinspeed

unveils a forward-looking take on the latest developments in the automobile industry, where trailblazing technology has brought this particular dream within reach. We are all familiar with the situation: non-stop concentration for hours on end, stuck behind the steering wheel, our eyes fixed firmly on the road ahead. All this is destined for the history books because the “XchangE” not only takes up the idea of the driverless vehicle but also raises travel to a new level. In order to make it more relaxing, the interior can be rearranged to provide space for sleeping or working. The smart design of the steering wheel enables it to be moved to the middle of the vehicle and the


The Patravi TravelTec is embedded in what is probably the world‘s most exclusive watch winder.

seats moved to comfortable positions. This creates an agreeable sensation of space, and time simply flows by. For the passengers, it also opens up completely new possibilities for spending the time usually spent traveling: sleeping, working, simply being, and at the same time covering distances effortlessly. A dream comes true – time lost on the road is now transformed into time for living. For time is a priceless commodity. Fleeting, yet closely defined. Clear, yet highly complex. Particularly when we are traveling through different time zones. Its significance is manifested most obviously in the “XchangE”’s instrument panel. Its central feature is an integrated Patravi TravelTec

from Carl F. Bucherer. The exquisite timepiece enables the driver to keep track of three timezones simultaneously. The watch is blue in color – to match the car – and embedded in what is probably the world’s most exclusive watch winder: a luxurious globe, with the world map engraved into it. When the car is idling, the sphere revolves and guarantees that the watch is always fully wound. The watch allows travelers to keep track of time, even if their journey takes them through several different time zones. The result is a unique masterpiece that was born of the vision of two innovative companies and unites technical perfection with passion.

PARTNERSHIP WITH A FUTURE The concept cars are the product of a creative spirit who refuses to be slowed by convention and resolutely breaks out in new directions. Rinspeed shares this approach with Carl F. Bucherer. Both companies base their success on outstanding technology, first-class materials and an unending passion for their own products. The “XchangE” project is not only an impressive combination of the dimensions of time and distance, but also the result of the progress made possible by their partnership.

INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº9 – 29


VIEWPOINT

More than skin deep Jack Forster

Editor-in-Chief Revolution (USA)

Mechanical watchmaking has been around for considerably longer than many of today’s enthusiasts realize. Of course, today mechanical watchmaking is nearly synonymous with wristwatches. However, watchmaking – the creation of portable timepieces – is much older. The question of who made the first mechanical watch will probably never be settled, but it was probably some time around the end of the 15th or beginning of the 16th century.

lated by the realization that more accurate timepieces would be useful in essential ways. Of these, perhaps the most critical was the demand for navigation watches for ships at sea. It is amazing to realize that an accurate mechanical watch was a decisive strategic advantage in both commerce and naval warfare, and that as recently as World War II, ship’s chronometers were indispensable to the world’s navies.

The creation of watches depended on two things: the development of spiral springs as a source of power and the development of an escapement that did not rely on a pendulum for timekeeping. The very first watches used steel mainsprings that provided less than a day of running time, and the only escapement known at the time was the verge.

Though watches were essential tools for defense, science, and commerce, they were also, prized as, beautiful objects for much of their history. One of the greatest attractions of watchmaking is that this art form has always united mechanical ingenuity, craftsmanship, and design in a way that gives watches an appeal found in very few other creations.

Watches began as expensive toys for the wealthy, but of course watchmakers (and their clients) wanted watches that would keep time accurately as well. Over hundreds of years, improvements were made, stimu-

Carl F. Bucherer’s watches represent a continuation of this centuries-old history – one in which technical excellence and beautiful design go hand in hand. One of the most impressive achievements

“CARL F. BUCHERER’S WATCHES REPRESENT A CONTINUATION OF THIS CENTURIES-OLD HISTORY.”

30 – INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº9

from Carl F. Bucherer is its in-house family of peripheral-rotor self-winding watches, based on the calibre CFB A1000, which is now represented by a total of five varieties in the Patravi collection. The construction of this movement is one of the very few instances in modern watchmaking to successfully utilize the peripheral rotor system, and the entire movement is constructed to optimize efficiency and chronometry. I’ve always felt that the most successful watches are those which most seamlessly integrate aesthetics and mechanics, in which design is the visual expression of functional integrity, which is the most essential promise a watchmaker makes to its clients. Thanks to Carl F. Bucherer’s commitment to this ethic, the brand has made – and continues to make – some of the most interesting and satisfying watches in the world.


NEW PRODUCTS

Engineered for eternity Manero ChronoPerpetual Limited Edition Our calendar is extraordinarily complex and looks back on a long history. Its roots go all the way back to 46 B.C. For it was then that Sosigenes, an Alexandrian astronomer working on behalf of Julius Caesar, divided the year up into twelve months: seven with 31 days, four with 30 and a twelfth with 28 days in a common year and 29 in a leap year. Calculations had shown that a year had approximately 365.25 days, so a day was added every four years to compensate for the discrepancy. Julius Caesar was responsible for the widespread use of this system, first within the Roman Empire and soon after beyond its borders in the entire western world. However, the Julian calendar, as it was known, contained an error of 0.0078 days per year, an inaccuracy corrected by Pope Gregory XIII in 1582. The Gregorian Calendar omits a leap year every 100 years, except in full centuries where the number of the year is divisible by 400. It has remained in use to this day and is the foundation on which we base all our calculations relating to times and dates.

In view of its complexity, the perpetual calendar is widely regarded as one of watchmaking’s supreme disciplines and one of its major complications. A manual correction will not be necessary until the year 2100, when, as in all other years that can be divided by 100 but not by 400, the leap year will be omitted. For individuals partial to this tour de force of traditional watchmaking, Carl F. Bucherer now presents a limited edition of the Manero ChronoPerpetual, which unusually combines a chronograph and a perpetual calendar. With correction-free displays of the date at 12 o’clock, the day at 6, the month and leap year at 9, and the moon phase at 3, the Manero ChronoPerpetual is a genuine masterpiece of the watchmaker’s art. The watchmakers at Carl F. Bucherer have also integrated another special feature in this model: the limited edition has a tachymeter scale engraved prominently on the bezel.

Used with the chronograph, the scale enables the wearer to measure distance and speed at a glance. When first invented, the function was intended primarily for marine navigation purposes but was also relevant for pilots and in motor racing. Being able to measure speed has lost none of its attraction to this day, and is useful for measuring the accuracy of a car’s speedometer, for instance. If the mechanism is started, and the seconds hand indicates 120 on the tachymeter scale when stopped after the car has covered a kilometer, the speed driven was 120 kph. The exclusiveness of the Manero ChronoPerpetual Limited Edition is underscored by the fact that production is restricted to just 100 watches worldwide. In this new model from the Manero line, Carl F. Bucherer has created a timepiece that will appeal to watch connoisseurs who appreciate a highly functional masterpiece of traditional watchmaking presented in a timelessly classic, yet understated, case.

The problems that result from the differing lengths of the months, particularly in leap years, are familiar to anyone who owns a mechanical watch with a date display. So, what can be done to counteract them? The answer may sound simple, but it is a whole lot harder to put into practice: the perpetual calendar. In a movement with a perpetual calendar, the mechanism switches autonomously from one month to the next and also takes leap years in its stride.

INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº9 – 31


ACCURACY TAKEN TO NEW DEPTHS

PATRAVI SCUBATEC Discover the world 500 meters below its surface. The Patravi ScubaTec diver’s watch offers a multi adjustable clasp and an automatic helium release valve to ensure ultimate comfort and worry free equalization of pressure. Created with the highest grade of stainless steel, its rugged ceramic bezel and blue illuminated hands and dial markers ensure perfect readability, even at the deepest depths. BOUND TO TRADITION – DRIVEN BY INNOVATION

WWW.CARL-F-BUCHERER.COM


INSIGHT by Carl F. Bucherer N°9 EN  
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