BY CARL F. BUCHERER
1888 Carl Bucherer announces the opening of his son’s business in the Lucerne daily newspaper.
A vision becomes reality The year 1888 is an extraordinary one. It is a year of change, upheaval and transformation. It is also the beginning of a new era in Swiss watch history: in Lucerne’s Falkenplatz, Carl Friedrich Bucherer and his wife, Luise, open the first store under the name Bucherer. Bucherer gets his financial stability and unique sense of aesthetics from his father, who had already opened his own toy store in Basel. It is not yet clear where the new enterprise will lead, what story it will tell and what milestones will be achieved, but the artistic talents of Carl Friedrich Bucherer and the bold entrepreneurial spirit of his wife, Luise, give them reason to look optimistically into the future.
A look at the Bucherer cash ledger from the first few months after its opening.
Carl Friedrich Bucherer opens the first Bucherer shop on Falkenplatz.
Impressions of Lucerne A view of the lake of Lucerne from the train station.
Richard Wagner Weg is a street named after the German composer who lived for six years in the Tribschener Landhaus (right) on the lake of Lucerne.
The Chapel Bridge is the city’s most recognizable icon. Over 200 meters in length, it is the oldest and longest covered wooden bridge in Europe.
125 Years’ Swiss History of Time
The year 1888 is part of a decade that promises upheaval and paves the way for the “fin de siècle”. The period between 1885 and 1914 is considered by many to be the end of the “world of yesterday” and the beginning of the modern era. Grandiose ambitions and gilded decadence define the mindset of the times while technical accomplishments, designs and inventions are the driving forces of a dynamic epoch. Examples of this spirit include the Eiffel Tower (1887-1889), a structure that was meant to be torn down 20 years after its completion but which established itself in 1900 at the World’s Fair as a permanent icon of the French capital. Automobile history is written by Bertha Benz as she takes the first overland journey in a car with her two children. On August 5, 1888, she drives with her husband Carl’s motorcar from Mannheim to Pforzheim - without him knowing. One other journey is etched into the collective memory as well: On August 17, 1888, the Pilatus railway successfully makes its first run up to Lucerne’s Mount Pilatus - the incline is 48 per cent, making it the steepest cog railway in the world. In the political arena, 1888 goes down in German history as the “Year of the Three Emperors”. Within just three months, three generations of monarchs reign over the German Empire.
The political landscape in Switzerland is also in a state of flux. On October 21, 1888, the Swiss Labor Convention founds the Social Democratic Party of Switzerland. On the other side of the Atlantic, Benjamin Harrison becomes the 23rd president of the United States. Sporting history is written by Scotsman William McGregor in England when he founds the world’s first professional soccer league: “The Football League”. Literature and art flourish in the 1880s like never before. Vincent van Gogh’s famous Sunflowers first grace the canvas in August of 1888. After opening its doors in 1881, the Moulin Rouge intoxicates Paris with its opulent decadence. Extravagance has also returned to the world of fashion. The Polonaise style is rediscovered, this time featuring a wavy folded overskirt and playful details such as ribbons, bows and ruffles.
8 125 Years’ Swiss History of Time
Sascha Moeri, CEO Bucherer Montres S.A.
8 125 YEARS
SWISS HISTORY OF TIME:
Book around the World
A VISIT TO:
Q&A with Arnold Schwarzenegger
CATCHING UP WITH:
Pirmin Schwegler and Murat Yakin The pace of things in Sainte-Croix
31 2 – INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº8
Sustainable luxury for tomorrow’s world
Impressum INSIGHT by Carl F. Bucherer Issue 8 | November 2013 Published by Carl F. Bucherer a brand of Bucherer Montres S.A. Langensandstrasse 27 CH-6002 Luzern Tel. +41 41 369 70 70 Fax +41 41 369 70 72 firstname.lastname@example.org www.carl-f-bucherer.com Project management and Editorial Team Bucherer Montres S.A., Luzern Convensis Group, Stuttgart Art Direction Kerstin Vorwalter, Ulm
Dear Reader, It was Democritus who wrote that a life without festivity was like a long journey without an inn. Our jubilee book “125 Years – Swiss History of Time” certainly has a long journey behind it. We sent this historic volume out to destinations all over the world and, exactly 125 years to the day after Carl Friedrich Bucherer opened his first store in Lucerne, presented it to friends, colleagues and longstanding supporters of the brand. One of the best ways to mark the jubilee was probably the opening of the new branch of Bucherer in Paris. As the biggest watch and jewelry store in the world, it presents a choice selection of diamonds, gemstones and outstanding examples of watchmaking on over 2000 sq.m of floor space at the Boulevard des Capucines. We visited Nathalie Celia, General Manager of Bucherer’s new branch, in Paris and talked with her about the store concept, about time in general and about her passion for arts and crafts. A passion for craft and the art of watchmaking is reflected in the timepieces in the Alacria line. These exclusive models combine extraordinary jewelry-making skills with distinctly feminine elegance to create genuine masterpieces. In this issue, we present these fabulous wristwatches in all their dazzling variety. One of the greatest achievements in the art of watchmaking is the complication known as the tourbillon. Making this complex mechanism calls for infinite expertise, and only a few watchmakers worldwide possess the skill required to create the ‘whirlwind’ at the highest possible level. For the first time ever in the history of the company, Carl F. Bucherer
presents a timepiece with an integrated tourbillon. It gives me enormous pleasure that we have been able to launch this extraordinary model in Bucherer’s jubilee year. It is another gift to a House steeped in tradition. An institution with a tradition almost exactly as long as Bucherer’s is FC Basel. Murat Yakin, the football team’s manager, has done much to make it so popular and successful. We met up to talk to him and Pirmin Schwegler, Swiss national team player and captain of Eintracht Frankfurt, where we discovered that the two “Friends of the Brand” are moved by concerns other than football. I wish you inspired and exciting reading. Sincerely,
CEO Bucherer Montres S.A.
INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº8 – 3
Manero Tourbillon Limited Edition
The craft of watchmaking at its most consummate It is like climbing Mount Everest: an impressive achievement that calls for courage, stamina and unwavering self-belief. A strong will and no fear of setbacks help us to overcome all the hindrances and obstacles on the way to the goal. In view of its complexity and mechanical sophistication, the tourbillon is considered to be one of the most daunting challenges and the supreme discipline in the art of watchmaking: a little like conquering the world’s highest mountain. For the first time ever, Swiss watch manufacturer Carl F. Bucherer presents this complication in a model from the Manero line. And, with it, underscores its expertise and craftsmanship at the very highest level.
4 – INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº8
The history of the tourbillon stretches back all the way to the 18th century, when the mechanism was first invented. Its manufacture poses enormous technical challenges. For this reason, only very few watchmakers worldwide are able to produce the complication to the highest possible quality standards. For all devotees of this tour de force of traditional watchmaking, Carl F. Bucherer presents the new Manero Tourbillon Limited Edition. The tourbillon’s job is to compensate for the errors in the rate of a mechanical watch caused by gravity. Because as a result of the watch’s different positions, gravity acts upon the balance and influences the speed at which it moves. In order to
minimize these errors, a rotating cage was invented to contain the balance. The arrangement allowed the balance and the escapement to rotate around themselves. This way, they are independent of the position of the watch. INTEGRATING THE SUPREME DISCIPLINE For the first time ever, the Manero Tourbillon Limited Edition brings together the classic elegance of the Manero line with a tour de force in the shape of the tourbillon. The perforations in the dial at 6 o’clock provide
INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº8 – 5
a view of the fascinating mechanism within. Delicate, and beautifully constructed, the impressive complication is a construction of the very finest quality. The Manero Tourbillon also comes with a host of other special features. The date, for instance, is shown by a central hand. In order to ensure that the figures are readily legible when glancing quickly at the watch, the numerals on the date scale change direction at 3 and 9. Another unusual feature of the Manero Tourbillon Limited Edition is the aboveaverage power reserve of 70 hours. The energy remaining can be read off on the power reserve display at 9 o’clock. The magnificent dial is completed by a 24-hour display at 12 o’clock.
6 – INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº8
NEATLY ORGANIZED AND ELEGANT
THE VERDICT: EXTRAORDINARILY VALUABLE
Despite the numerous functions and displays, Carl F. Bucherer spared no effort to ensure that the Manero Tourbillon Limited Edition offers maximum legibility. It was a challenge the designers overcame by making the dial as spacious as possible and integrating several different levels. The eye-catchingly positioned, wedge-shaped hour indices and typically bold Carl F. Bucherer script and numerals, combined with hour and minute hands that taper to a point, give the traditional tourbillon a contemporary touch. The luxuriously elegant styling is taken up in the case, which is made of precious rose gold.
The exclusiveness of the Manero Tourbillon Limited Edition is underscored not least by the fact, as its name suggests, that it is strictly limited: a mere 188 examples of this prestigious timepiece will be available worldwide. In this new model from the Manero collection, Carl F. Bucherer has produced a watch destined to send connoisseurs into raptures, especially those who attach value to traditional watchmaking expertise and maximum functionality in a classic and yet impressive case. A watch whose design, both inside and out, integrates a great deal of strength, stamina and attention to detail. As a result, the Manero Tourbillon Limited Edition is a model that is more than worthy of being called an extraordinarily valuable timepiece. It is an achievement of the highest order. In every sense.
INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº8 – 7
125 YEARS SWISS HISTORY OF TIME
Book around the World
When Carl Friedrich Bucherer opened his first watch and jewelry store in Lucerne on July 17, 1888, he laid the cornerstone of an unusual Swiss history of time. Precisely 125 years later, on July 17, 2013, this impressive history embarked on a journey around the world. In countries in every corner of the globe, we took great pleasure in presenting our jubilee volume, “125 Years – Swiss History of Time” to special friends and supporters of the brand. The book juxtaposes the story of the House of Bucherer with the history of watch and jewelry making during
that period to create a proud legacy that is also an incentive: it is a success story that yearns to go on being told. THE JUBILEE
It is now 125 years since Carl Friedrich Bucherer opened his first watch and jewelry store under the Bucherer name at Falkenplatz in Lucerne. His two sons, Ernst and Carl Eduard Bucherer, likewise pursued their father’s vision. In Berlin, they founded a
iss H ars‘ Sw
jewelry making workshop whose clientele included the Kaiser himself. With the launch of the first ladies’ watch collection in 1919, the two brothers erected yet another milestone in the history of the House. From then on, the company created timepieces that, in their own unique way, have fused jewelry making with the watchmaker’s craft to this day. This has remained Bucherer’s recipe for success down to the present. In the 1970s, Jörg G. Bucherer took over at the helm and became the third generation of the family to oversee the company’s fortunes.
1888 Carl Buch erer anno the open ing of unce in the Lucer his son’s busin s ess ne daily newspape r.
A look at the cash ledge Bucherer r few mont from the first hs after its open ing.
The year 1888 is al and transform an extraordin ary watch history: ation. It is also one. It is a year in and his the of chan wife, LuiseLucerne’s Falke beginning ge, uphe of a Bucherer nplatz, av, open Carl Fried new era in Swis from his gets his finan the first store rich Buch s cial under father, erer the nam It is not who had stability and e Buch yet clear unique already erer. will tell sens and wha where the new opened his own e of aesth etics of Carl t mileston enterpris toy store Fried wife, Luise rich Bucherer es will be achie e will lead, wha in Basel. t story ved, but and the , give them it bold the reason artistic talents to look entrepreneuria optimistica l spirit of his lly into the futur e. Carl Fried rich Buch opens erer the first Bucherer shop on Falkenplat z.
Impressi on of Lucernes A view of the lake of from the train statio Lucerne n.
Richard street name Wagner Weg is a d after composer the Germ who lived an for six in the Tribsc years hener Land (right) haus on the lake of Lucerne. 125_CF
of Time The Chap el Bridg e is the recognizab city’s most le icon. in lengt Over 200 h, it is meters the oldes covered t and longe wooden st bridge in Europ e.
The year 1888 is part of promises a decad upheaval for the and paves e that The “fin political the way lands tween 1885 de siècle”. The period be- is also in a state cape in Switz and 1914 erland by many of flux. 21, 1888, is consi to be the On Octob the Swiss dered of yeste founds Labor Conve er rday” and end of the “worl ntion the begin d Switz the Social Demo modern era. ning cratic Party erland. On gilded decad Grandiose ambit of the Atlan of tic, Benja the other side ions and of the min Harris the times ence define the the 23rd mindset while techn on becom president of Sport ments, es of the Unite ical designs accomplishing histor d State and inven y is writte driving Willia tions are forces of n by Scots s. the found m McGregor in a dynam man amples Engla ic epoch of this s the world nd when . ExTower (1887 spirit includ he ’s first e the Eiffel soccer leagu professiona was mean -1889), a struct l Literature e: “The Footb t to be ure that all Leagu and art torn down after its e”. flourish like never comp in the 1880s 20 before. lished itself letion but which years famou Vincent s Sunfl van estabin 1900 Fair as a vas in Augu owers first grace Gogh’s at the permanent World’s the st of 1888. capital. doors in After openi canAutomobile icon of the Frenc ng its h cates 1881, the Moul by Berth history in Roug a Benz Paris with is writte e intoxias she n Extrav overland its opule takes the journey first world agance has also nt decadence. in a car children. with return On Augu of st 5, 1888, her two redisc fashion. The Polon ed to the with her husband overed, she aise style this time Carl’s motor drives folded Mannheim is featuring overs car to Pforzh a wavy knowing. eim - witho from as ribbon kirt and playfu One other l details s, bows ut him such into the and ruffle journey collective is etche s. d On Augu st 17, 1888, memory as well: Pilatus the railwa fully make y successs its first up to run Lucerne’s Mount Pilatus - the incline 48 per cent, is making steepest cog railwa it the world. In y in the the 1888 goes political arena , down in history German as the “Year of Three Empe rors”. Withi the three month n just s, three tions of monarchs generathe Germ reign over an Empir e.
8 – INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº8
As a tribute to Carl Friedrich Bucherer, founder of the company and grandfather of Jörg G. Bucherer, the watchmaking brand of the same name was repositioned in 2001. This move strengthened the company’s watchmaking expertise and led to a sharper focus on mechanical timepieces. In 2013, we celebrate the 125th anniversary of the company’s foundation. To mark this very special day, Carl F. Bucherer is proud to unveil several wonderful jubilee models and its unique jubilee book.
“A good design for us is one based on the and technical dem functional ands of a produc t that fulfills its and looks beautif stated purpose ul all at the sam e time.” Max Bill
of a horse is in the shape tely of silver timepiece This brooch is made comple . The case and carriage stones. marcasite and set with
The dial on this
chronograph has an unusual The telemeter pink color. and tachymete r scales enhance the functionality of the piece.
The design of this yellow gold watch highlights its angles and edges. The crown is adorned with a blue sapphire.
From Bucherer’s beginnings in 1888, the book “125 Years – Swiss History of Time” has three separate, parallel threads that place the company’s history alongside contemporary history and the story of watchmaking. These interconnections are woven together to create a multifaceted image of the House of Bucherer and its origins in Switzerland and, at the same time, within the context of Europe and the rest of the world.
Sporty watch for
This model has
125 Years’ Swiss
es quickly becom den Linden strong results in at 47 Unter tion, which er. The shop from the of attention the royal a good reputa Berlin togeth even a bit to shment with er base and e suppliers their an establi of their custom brothers soon becom the launch growth in rer s become marked by The Buche times are new model emperor: successful in 1919. The C. Bucherer. The court. These of ladies’ watches name fits the ion under perfectly first collect rer stores style and ndat the Buche the earlier art deco ning the outsta available emulates skillfully combi watch design times, while also rs. of the the spirit the two brothe anship of ing craftsm
La Grande Dam This ladies’
watch is one
on the fans cheer Enthusiastic soccer team. FC Luzern
ive sh ap
This piec on the e is densely beze set with l whi and clas le the brilliant p give detailed -cut diam it a uniq shap ond es of ue cha the stra s racter. p ring
a view over rooftops the of the city.
Street scenes from the era ade re promen The lakesho snow. covered in
The livel y meeting promena de is point a folks out for for traders and a stro ll.
n Franco-Prussia After the beginmarks the War, 1871 in 125 Year era of peace s’ Swi ning of an ss Hist lasts 43 years, labor; workers ory of Europe that division of out Time ized by the lves into unWar I breaks ing themse until World 1890 is conbegin organiz l parties. A desire is period after fascinating in 1914. The and politica of society of the most though ions ed among all strata sidered one in history and awaken the extraord epochs in Europea not agreed upon, it experience are to live and times is charar emphathe exact dates spirit of the nary. The exuberance with a particul Virtually a sense of is associated by y ment. d advance acterize be most palpabl sis on cultural quantum leaps and freedom that can establishboasts the and cabaret rthy artno other era cafés notewo the by in district, felt made artre poraries, of discovery Paris’ Montm ments of ts and contem studios, and in Europe’s ists, scientis galleries and take place , in the artist rds of the capital. Recmany of which countries: England on the bouleva ial s increasingly Germany. most influent l travel become Hungary and greatly exin reationa France, Austriato the already are made inpopular due discoveries and rising Many new Röntgen discov- panded transport system tions include particular. physics in and the Curies comes. Attractive destina and the rays in 1895 Fair in Paris Planck’s ers gamma in 1898. Max in 1896 in the 1889 World’s radium Games r time in just discove Olympic is released borders is first modern quantum theory century, and in 1905 ability to cross manage to Athens. The of the which turn relativthe arts, of for the us the theory also felt in y life. After Einstein brings had founded a part of everyda in Berlin d Freud, who 1890, become ide public showing in ity. Sigmun nalysis Touthe worldw of psychoa and Henri de e with a the study Jules Chéret s in Paris world of medicin soul. in 1895, make advance enriches the h to the human efforts enlouse-Lautrec phy. Their scientific approac of La Belle Époque of stylcolor lithogra nce d by in ective printing The emerge be explaine able the cost-eff become “street art” effectively alization that can most g wave of industri point in ized posters “passion for collectin a the second that figures and awaken the globe at ”. Significant that sweeps it means imionthe masses population, d among from impress time. For the and increase artistic wave, this society in for cubism, include mense gains developments ism to art nouveau and Pablo The positive von Stuck, prosperity. consciousness Paul Cézanne, Franz In the musim social of dissathelp transfor Gustav Klimt. Picasso and s unfinished a gradual sense and inspire established Gustav Mahler’ books cal world, tradition and history with the n work isfactio ny goes into Attitudes toward , sympho institutions. In industry death in 1911. as a result. - after his also change are rational processes manufacturing
er’s first timepie
l Quay The Nationa for a stroll.
The boa t “Sw driven an” (left by a gas mot ) is or.
The Lion Mon Glacier ument Garden in rates commemthe mem bers Guard oof the who Swi were in the massacr ss atta ed Palace ck on Tuile ries in Pari s in 179 2.
The boom in the litical wor stab the arts ilization and ld economy , po, culture a blos 1920s soming and scie into a nce mak of in the “golden e colle progress ctive mem age”. It rem the ains wearing and exhilara ory as a time tion. feather shirt Women of boas dresses while and gett and knee-len are men gth ing bob don their haircuts Architect hair back sport coat attitude s characte ure and . The design charlesto and slick time are to life and inspire ety. The rize a new n vibr the and Weimar sense of manticis evidence of cabarets of ant men cool -based t beco that fiery sens Bauhau sobrilightnes m and extr aestheti mes the e of s mov avag icon of s c. In ethe polit of everyday ant luxury. ro- Carl Zuckmay 1930, thea the modern life This ter wor Republi ical realities contrast s with ick” become er’s “Cap ks like c tain new free in Germany. of the Wei a New Objectivi massive succ of Köpenmar Thanks culture doms, the Bert ty mov ess in to thes flow scene ement. the e prov olt Brecht’s that repr experien ering arts ides soci “Threepe In Berlin, and to Wei esents a sple ce a rapid reviv ally nny in a mar ndid cont al liter modern disg critical ente Opera” emerge . New form radi rtain uise. In ature ctio based s the mid ment and the on the of mass cult n with clas also expe -1920s, riences sics like as the avant-garde American modure Mag a epit el, Hes ic Mountai Thomas Man heyday Societal ome of the establishes n” in 192 n’s se’s itsel tropolis” portraits like Weimar cult f and thea “Steppenwolf 4 and Herm“The ure. genre. triptych beco Otto Dix’s managea ters magicall ” in 1927. ann “MeMan Café y draw ble hord disillusio y artists me an imp almost s es of ortant literary figu like Geo res, acto artists, dire unwith prov ned by Wor pain rge Gros ld ctor rs, z, ity ters. This ures with ocative pain War I, hit new sensart dealers s, in the back tings and in big Wilh e have of anon city mak elminian against fig- women begun ymstak society young society’s to distance es it easi republic. ing claim er for them tradition s with who Fem witz are Others ale in ally assi selves from and wor investing thei like Käthe the a pict authors like gned ure Kollroles. r Vicki ary prol k into the caus innovative cal and of the “new Baum spir etar paint fist imag iat art, as e of revolutio it deliv self-confiden woman” as t protagon critiseen es. n- sion er the sam in her e resu ists who al lives pacilts in as their prof media and cinemale colle agues. esastound mas Prin ing grow also t expe th duri ng the rience period.
A dynamic life – Wilhelmina Bucher er
lden Tw enties
Snowm elt and lake of heavy Lucerne rains Parts cause to spill of Luc the ove erne are floo r its ban ks. ded.
at the turn Schwanenplatz century. of the 20th
Impres si of Luce ons rne
Two of the mos in this exclusiv t precious materia e wat ch for ls in the wor ladie s: plat ld are inum and diam combine d onds.
of FC Luzern. pioneers
rce Colorful comme lace. on the marketp
La Belle Épo
rooftops Over the asse. of Kapellg
Wilhelm ina one of 314 peo Bucherer-He eb is ple who in the tragic go dow ship “Princip wreck of n the essa Mafalda ”.
with e are filled ss in Lucern becomes rer’s busine platz quickly then on years of Buche store on Falken gasse and . The The first few s in the Kapell and growth rer decide momentum ch Buche es are found spends new premis foresight, Carl Friedri Bucherer too small; tions. Ernst With clever Carl Kapellplatz. sons with good educa l in St. Imier while 1913, his ithing. In making schoo to provide at the watch London to learn goldsminto the family to three years get rs goes rer brothe a perfect Eduard Buche their studies, both very close and make comes as eting are making. It after compl Carl Eduard watch of and studio in Ernst anship goldsmith business. the craftsm to open a regard to they decide team with e, then, when no surpris
Carl Edu his belo ard Buchere r prop ved Wilh build oses elm a suc to cessful ina. They in San go on busines tiago, to Chile. s toge ther
An era of le
History of Time
It is prim Eduard arily the politica ital and and Ernst l unr strong leave Ger Bucherer est in Ber lin to many Americ desire to all tog give up the in 1922 tha trav a tota a on his jou el. He bec ether. Ern ir busines t leads Car l st, for s in the rneys l om again of 26 tim around es particu his par and aga es bet Torme t, also caplarly the wee In the nted 1920s, in by Bue n Europe globe. The enchanted has a ent’s by this Argent nos Aire sho and Sou Ernst wat by be the p in Sw fate, Car s, Rio th Am chmaker South Wilhelmina and Chi Bucherer l Edu itze de travels eric le esta in use Bucherer’s rland. The ard and with a fate ina. The blishes Janeiro and a, fasc his Ern main inat se ful grow for three locationfirst premis st return travelin blow: Wil successfu brother Car wholesale São Pau ed yea in to the lo. l l helm on Sch es nea operati g yea and ope the years rs at this Edu betwee ir par ry in rs are ard ina Buc wanenp r what poi Eur n unfortu and Car ons in wo first sho n-mindednthat follow, nt. The in the ope inte the contine herer-H family latz 4 hav uld later due ess p in Inte eeb dies nately inte l’s wife nded fall of nts in Lug for the and the afte 192 rlaken, of the two in no small company e been rrup ano. South r procur in a shipwre ted by of gol continu At other 7 ends wit brothe and in part to dsmithi this poi Americ ing wat 313 pas h es to the nt the 1928 the rs: In 192 jewelry ches ck while an ma ng senger the sinking 7, the experience and jew compan Bucher and wat and wat rkets. s on of the Still, er Bou y open chm ely is Her board che the ship their perishi and Wil passage not eve imminen s go han aking. The skillfully com tique is ope ng. d-in t ma helm n the glo ina Bucher bal eco -hand wit nufacture bining the ned h wat arts and er bus nomic iness… crisis leav ch repair sale of service es not hing s. untouc hed,
avel arning and tr
and a 30-minute
0 1889 –192
125 Years’ Swiss
The Heeb family had an embroider y factory where they produced fine fabrics for various markets including the Parisian haute couture set. Carl Eduard Bucherer asks for Wilhelmina’s hand in marriage.
Tribute to Mimi
In 2005, in Wilhelmin a‘s memory, Carl F. Bucherer created a special edition ladies‘ watch limited to 70 pieces. It is a modern interpretat ion of art deco styles that commemo rates the life of this pioneering woman.
In 1899, Wilhelmi na sees the light daughter of the of day for the Heeb embroide first time. As the ry manufacturing zell, she grows up amidst the family in Appenfinest fabrics an early fascinatio and lace and n for luxurious develops embroidery is materials. The in demand in Heeb family’s many countries order for Paris’ and is also made haute couture set. Wilhelmi to worldly woman na develops into who a very ways. Carl Eduard can quickly win people over with Bucherer grows soon asks her fond of the young her charming for her hand woman in marriage. The and in 1921. Soon wedding takes after, place and builds a watch the young couple moves to Santiago de and jewelry business Chile influenced city. in this heavily immigrantThe success of Bucherer’s South American a result of Wilhelmi business is very much the long trip back na’s efforts as well: Every summer she to Switzerland makes jewelry for the to purchase new Chilean market. watches and She of course months to visit uses those summer the family in Switzerland. at the embroide She stands by ry factory and her father helps her father-inBucherer in the Lucerne store. law Carl Friedrich As she embarks in fall 1927 from
125 Years’ Swiss
History of Time
Genoa to Buenos Aires, her bags jewelry pieces, are filled with as always. But Swiss watches the journey aboard and Mafalda” takes a tragic turn: the “Principe A propeller shaft ssa water infiltrates on the machine room and a boiler the ship breaks, breaks out on board explodes. Panic of ships are already the ship. Though the sea is calm and a en route to save number sinks four hours the damaged after the panic vessel, the ship with it. One of breaks out and them is Wilhelmi 314 edy in Brazilian na. It is the worst people go down coastal history. maritime tragWilhelmina Bucherer found. Even the wreck of the -Heeb is never “Principessa discovered. On Mafalda” has the ocean floor, never been the remains of with the ship’s Wilhelmina’s remains, are also procurements Among the valuable for the shop in watches and Santiago. that were in the jewelry pieces ship’s safe is from Switzerla Wilhelmina’s first Bucherer nd own watch, one wristwatches for women in of studded masterpi the world: a diamondthe ece in art deco style. In memory of Wilhelmina in 2005, Carl 70 limited-edition women’s watches F. Bucherer produces pretation. The with a modern art pioneering woman deco interlives on.
Carl Eduard and
Wilhelmina enjoy life as newly-wed s.
The elegant interior “Principessa
of the Mafalda”.
125 Years’ Swiss
History of Time
INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº8 – 9
History of Time
125 YEARS SWISS HISTORY OF TIME
ia and sports Successful businessman, med frey receives God l Pau director and politician Sam Freiberg at a copy from Ami Freiberg and jewelry store in and ch wat ns atio Cre the Classic the values for which Toronto. Godfrey embodies ds: independence, stan the Carl F. Bucherer brand determination. innovation and indefatigable
d of the director and Frien Actor, producer, a receives the jubilee book gn Brand Joe Mante in Beverly Hills, California. ll from David Orge
e Swiss goalkeeper of th Diego Benaglio, and Friend of the Brand, am te national soccer bastian Martin, in Zurich from Se receives a copy erer Managing Director. Carl F. Buch
Well-known author and bea Kenetia Lee presents the reig uty activist ning Miss Universe, Olivia Culpo, with her copy of the book in New York.
Pirmin Schweg player and captainler, Swiss national soccer Eintracht Frankfu of the German league team rt, receives the ju bilee book at the Frankfurt Buch Friederike Lockau erer boutique from , General Manag er.
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INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº8 – 11
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A VISIT TO
On April 15, 2013, Bucherer gave itself the most beautiful gift to celebrate its 125th jubilee: the family-owned Swiss company opened the world’s largest watch and jewelry store in Paris, luxury’s international capital. At the same time, Bucherer laid the cornerstone of a new paradise for watch and jewelry shopping on the Boulevard des Capucines. On over 2000 sq.m of floor space, lovers of fine watch- and jewelry-making can lose themselves in a choice selection of leading watch brands and exquisite diamond jewelry. General Manager Nathalie Celia revealed some of the secrets behind the fabulous new premises in one of Paris’ prime locations to INSIGHT by Carl F. Bucherer. She also declared her affection for one watch in particular: the Alacria.
When Nathalie Celia walks into the store, it is almost as if she was competing with the glittering diamonds on display: her eyes light up with the same fiery sparkle. She is also fired up by what she does: managing the largest Bucherer store of them all, consisting of 23 shops, with 120 staff. For Celia, it is a privilege to be able to pour all her passion into a tradition-steeped Swiss company, and she appreciates the “genuine partnership” she experiences through the cooperation. “We share a myriad of ideas, we listen carefully to each other, and we pursue the same goal: to build up Bucherer’s reputation,” she enthuses. French by birth, she has 14 – INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº8
Russian, Majorcan and Ukrainian roots. She also considers it to be a very special declaration of confidence that Bucherer involved her in the entire planning process long before the store opened. She arrived where she is today thanks to a passion for jewelry and watches: a passion that has fanned increasingly through the exciting stages of her life. She found her way into accessories through fashion and its “very special values” at the House of Christian Lacroix, where she was initially responsible for European and international markets. When the Louis Vuitton Group
bought up Christian Lacroix in 1997, Celia was offered the job of building up the first branch in Moscow. She accepted the task without a second’s hesitation and spent the next two years building up important contacts with, among others, the military, the public authorities and the press. In 1999, she returned to the French capital. Following the birth of her two children, she found herself on the tightrope between work and her family, but managed to stay grounded by studying psychomotor therapy at the Hôpital de la Salpêtrière. She says she still benefits from the experience, particularly
when it comes to individual customer relations. With an impressive diploma in her pocket, she finally returned to the Louis Vuitton Group as manager of the perfume section in the Champs-Elysées store. She was fascinated by the elaborately fashioned vials – tiny works of art in themselves – that gave the fragrance “le petit plus”. She also sees this stage of her career as good training for her subsequent position as General Manager of a jewelry store. Before joining Bucherer in August 2012, she was in charge of the accessories and luxury goods department at no less impressive an address than Printemps. This was where she finally discovered her deep affinity with watches and jewelry. She is particularly fascinated by the skilled handicraft behind them. “Watches and jewelry tell an unending story,” says Celia, explaining her passion. “A group of individuals jointly produce a fascinating creation, a unique masterpiece
that is presented to the customer and then goes on telling its story from generation to generation. She also enjoys the fact that the sector she works in largely involves family histories and brings her together with customers and connoisseurs who share her passion. “It’s wonderful to share part of a journey with these people and to be able to give them a moment of pleasure.” In this respect, she recalls two American ladies who came into the store because one of them wanted to buy a watch by Carl F. Bucherer. It was in memory of her deceased father, who had bought his watch during the Second World War in Europe. After the sale was completed, the ladies remained for another hour, recalling stories and memories that eventually moved the new customer to tears. “We like to offer our customers an experience they will remember forever, and which they can pass on to their children together with the piece of jewelry or watch,” is how Celia describes the perfect sale.
She personally experiences moments of real happiness through sport, particularly swimming and running. The fact she shares her second hobby with a team makes it that bit more special. She proudly tells us about taking part in the recent La Parisienne run, which she shared with 15 women who work for the store, each wearing the same Bucherer T-shirt. For moments like this, which have a bonding effect on everyone involved, she would like one thing above all: more time. For her, time is an important dimension in life, divided into two distinct areas. First, there is personal time, which is bound up with values and emotions. This contrasts with real time, which is regulatory and imposes norms. “It is a mix of the two that determines our past, present and future.” Celia admits that time is a commodity in her life that is in short supply. “Occasionally, I’d like more time for my team, for my customers, and, of course, for my children. It would also be nice to think more about how I’d like to INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº8 – 15
A VISIT TO
plan the future and give myself more time to be creative. To cut a long story short: I wish I had more time to do the things I have to do, and do them well.”
highly visible cooperation is the store’s involvement in the debutantes’ ball, where the ladies wear Bucherer jewelry and the men Carl F. Bucherer wristwatches.
Her quest for excellence is also reflected in her sales philosophy, which she continually strives to perfect. “We’re never satisfied with the way things are today; we always want to get better at what we do. It’s a privilege for my team and me to work for Bucherer and, through our hard work, to give something back to the owner, Mr. Bucherer. The fact that the customer is king in the prime-location store remains undisputed. “We offer our customers an extraordinarily high level of service, because that’s where our business stands or falls,” explains Celia. This is one of the reasons why she takes such pleasure in surprising her regular customers with special events. Selected customers, for instance, may find themselves invited to brand-themed evenings, to a private visit as part of the store’s cooperation with the Grand Palais, or even to the Lucerne Music Festival. Another
What the store tries to make unforgettable for the customer is the purchasing experience itself. The unique nature of the store concept is reflected immediately in its architecture, where the focus is on the company’s history and uses the figure “8” as its platform: The number, traditionally a lucky one in China, is an allusion to the year 1888, when Bucherer was founded. The space, too, is divided up in such a way as to give customers complete freedom. “The architecture in the sales space is an extremely successful compromise,” says Celia, explaining the store concept. “The wide passages allow people to feel relaxed as they move and stroll freely, while the private sales booths provide an intimate sales experience.” This idea reflects the contrast between mass consumption and an individual sales experience. This is further manifested outside the store, in its location
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between the Place Vendôme and the large Galeries La Fayette and Printemps department stores. According to Celia, this also helps her divide customers into two groups: tourists and international buyers, as well as a “very good, very loyal, local clientele that devotes a lot of time to buying, is proud to buy at Bucherer, and ultimately makes a considered decision.” The General Manager finds this a good mix, as well as the fact that, inside the boutique, each brand has its own world integral to the overall concept. “For customers, it’s an advantage that they have a wide selection of different brands to choose from, which they can discover and discuss with a single salesperson,” is how Celia explains the added value for her clientele. In her experience, a jewelry sale is generally more likely to be an emotional affair because jewelry is inseparable from the more important stages and key moments in an individual’s lifetime. In the case of a watch sale, by contrast, there is usually more emphasis on masculine and
“WE SHARE A MYRIAD OF IDEAS, WE LISTEN CAREFULLY TO EACH OTHER, AND WE PURSUE THE SAME GOAL: TO BUILD UP BUCHERER’S REPUTATION.”
technical factors, as well as the whole aspect of collecting. And, according to Celia, there are differences in the way customers handle the two types of sale: “Jewelry is something people love to show off, while people tend to buy watches for themselves.” Almost automatically she touches her wrist and gently strokes her own watch: an Alacria, whose elegance and femininity she particularly loves. “It represents the values of the House like no other watch in the collection and, with its enchanting combinations of diamonds, is a reminder of the first ladies’ watches from Bucherer,” is how she explains her fascination with the line. “With this watch on my wrist, I simply feel good.” Apart from this, she wears a Patravi EvoTec BigDate, which she considers to be a perfect reflection of the company’s commitment to designing and manufacturing its own movements in-house. “Thanks to its size and to the diamonds, which make it very feminine, it really is a fabulous accessory.” Celia takes the greatest pleasure in the unusual nature
and independence of the Carl F. Bucherer brand. “In its collections, the brand succeeds in conveying the history of the House’s values. Its timepieces stand for family, creativity and technical precision, as well as manufacturing excellence, innovation and independence. Carl F. Bucherer is a genuinely worthy name.” Nathalie Celia is relaxed and optimistic about the future. “Although sales in the
luxury segment in France are down 3%, watches and jewelry will always be a good investment because they retain their value and can be handed down from one generation to the next.” The fact that the Carl F. Bucherer brand now has a presence in the French capital poses her with a very enviable challenge: to further develop and raise awareness of a brand to which she is totally devoted.
INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº8 – 17
Preview: Q&A with Arnold
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Something to look forward to: in one of the next issues of INSIGHT by Carl F. Bucherer, readers can enjoy an exclusive interview with Arnold Schwarzenegger, not only the world’s most successful bodybuilder but also famous as an actor and politician. Born in Austria, he moved to Los Angeles, produced movies in Hollywood, and, in 2012, released his autobiography “Total Recall: My Unbelievably True Life Story”. As a tireless and successful businessman who co-founded theme restaurant Planet Hollywood, he is a self-confessed watch enthusiast and fan of Carl F. Bucherer – his private watch collection contains several of the brand’s models. He even infected one of his friends, Sylvester Stallone – who met up with for Q&A with INSIGHT by Carl F. Bucherer in issue no. 7, with his enthusiasm for the Lucerne-based watch manufacturer. Schwarzenegger discovered the new models for himself during a visit to the Carl F. Bucherer pavilion at this year’s BASELWORLD, where Sascha Moeri presented him personally with his favorite model, the Patravi TravelTec. To find out more about the “Terminator” and his love of fine watches, be sure not to miss one of our next issues.
INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº8 – 19
CATCHING UP WITH
Pirmin Schwegler and Murat Yakin
Two brand ambassadors in a verbal exchange “On Saturday afternoon, millions of people forget their everyday concerns,” Ottmar Hitzfeld, head coach of the Swiss national football team, once said. Unlike virtually any other international sport, football – or soccer – has established itself at all levels of society as a sports event that genuinely moves people and generates a powerful emotional response, whether it’s at the edge of the field, on the terraces or in front of the TV.
Murat Yakin and Pirmin Schwegler also hold a firm position in the world of football. “INSIGHT by Carl F. Bucherer” met up with the two Friends of the Brand to discuss “the beautiful game”. “Football is highly emotional and brings people together across national boundaries,” says 26-year-old Pirmin Schwegler. This particular aspect of the sport, and of the game itself, fascinates the captain of German league team Eintracht Frankfurt. “It’s an incredible feeling to be out there on the pitch.” And, as Murat Yakin points out, “the atmosphere created by the fans does the rest.”
”TACTICS AND STRATEGY ALONE ARE NOT ENOUGH.“ Murat Yakin
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The two Swiss professionals have played for teams in both Switzerland and Germany. “I’ve always been well looked after by all the teams I’ve played for, and here in Frankfurt I feel very much at home. I’m proud to be captain of Eintracht Frankfurt,” says Pirmin Schwegler. Since his arrival, Frankfurt has become a little like home. Apart from the Commerzbank Arena, the city in the state of Hessen boasts numerous other sights. Germany’s big financial center has the Roemer (its medieval city hall), St. Paul’s Church and the Goethe House. At the same time, it deftly mixes the traditional with the modern. Apart from this, it is a place where many different cultures come together –
”FOOTBALL IS HIGHLY EMOTIONAL AND BRINGS PEOPLE TOGETHER ACROSS NATIONAL BOUNDARIES.“
Photo: © Rolf Kosecki/Corbis
INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº8 – 23
CATCHING UP WITH
”WHAT I ADMIRE MOST ABOUT MURAT ARE HIS CREATIVITY AND STRENGTH OF WILL.“ Pirmin Schwegler
a phenomenon that occurs on the football pitch, too, as Yakin agrees: “It’s irrelevant what nationality or skin color you have: on the pitch, all that counts is the team.” Now 39, and a Swiss national with Turkish roots, he considers his mixed cultural background to be an enrichment. His ties with both have remained close to this day. “I love Turkish cuisine, and I’ve always enjoyed eating my mother’s food.” That may well be one of the reasons why Murat Yakin owns his own restaurant in Basel today. As well as the fact that Basel is so international, too. Because of its location, it is a melting pot for Swiss, French and German culture, and thus has a very special flair of its own. Apart from Basel Cathedral, the Kunsthalle and the idyllic banks of the Rhine River, the city has St. Jakob-Park – FC Basel’s stadium – which attracts locals and visitors from all over the world. Yakin is manager of FC Basel and led the team to the league title last season. He recently wrote another chapter in football history in London, when FC Basel beat Chelsea FC in the Champions League. “It’s all about passion, combined with a lot of blood, sweat and tears. A manager has to grow together with his team,” explains Yakin. “Tactics and strategy alone are not enough.” 24 – INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº8
Schwegler and Yakin demonstrate that football is also about humanity and sticking together in their lives outside of the game. Both are committed to foundations that look after children and young people. The Murat Yakin & Stamm Foundation helps children and adolescents. “As a kid, I grew up in difficult circumstances, as part of a large family with eight children. Expenses like a new pair of football boots were a real luxury for us. That’s the reason I want to give something back today.” There are also personal reasons for Pirmin Schwegler’s work with the Bern Foundation for Children and Young People with Cancer. As a child, the Swiss national team player was stricken by leukemia. Back then, no one believed he would ever be able to live his dream of a career in professional
football. But with typical pluck and indefatigable will power, Schwegler stuck at it. “I’m deeply grateful, even today, for all the support people gave me. And I’m delighted to be able to give something back.” Society, they both agree, is a little like football: respect is a crucial factor. They have mutual regard for each other and their individual achievements. “What I admire most about Murat are his creativity and strength of will,” explains Schwegler. “Pirmin is an excellent midfield player with a great deal of potential and I’d love to coach him one of these days. Perhaps I can learn something from him. Or maybe he could learn something from me,” replies Yakin, with a wink.
”PIRMIN IS AN EXCELLENT MIDFIELD PLAYER WITH A GREAT DEAL OF POTENTIAL AND I’D LOVE TO COACH HIM ONE OF THESE DAYS.“ Murat Yakin
INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº8 – 25
pace of things in Sainte-Croix
Perched high on a terrace in the Jura mountains at the heart of the Vaud, a small village with a lot of cachet offers a unique view of the area around Lake Geneva and the Alps: Sainte-Croix and the resort of Les Rasses, popular with tourists all year round. In summer, the lush Jura meadowlands and fir tree forests offer a vast network of walks and hikes, and attract countless visitors. Sitting up above them is the Les Rasses valley station for the chairlift to the Chasseron (La Robella), an interesting starting point for – or end to – tours of the region. Mountain bikers can look forward to 84 kilometers of trails. Hikers and bikers alike appreciate the fact they can drop into the many alpine huts, which have been converted into small hostelries selling local produce and specialties. When the cold weather sets in, the region is transformed into a paradise for winter sports. Les Rasses, which lies
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above the sea of fog shrouding the lowlands, has eight lifts ranging between 1150 and 1580 meters, and offers perfect skiing for beginners. Another 65 kilometers of cross-country trails and tracks for snowshoe hikers, all prepared daily, stretch from Les Rasses to Creux du Van. Just a few kilometers from Sainte-Croix is another popular spa town, Yverdon-lesBains, which is famed for the special quality of its thermal springs. Situated on the shores of Lake Neuchâtel, Yverdon looks back on a long history, as affirmed by 45 Neolithic menhirs and Celtic ruins, as well as a Roman
camp and the medieval and classical buildings in the town center. While the History Museum in the castle pays fitting tribute to this fascinating past, the Swiss Fashion Museum, the Science Fiction Museum and the Espace Jules Verne display the achievements of the 21st century. Apart from its rich cultural heritage, Yverdon-les-Bains can also lay claim to an extraordinarily rich natural inheritance: the Grande Cariçaie is the most extensive lake-shore wetland area in Switzerland, with the extraordinary flora and fauna around Champ-Pittet Castle awaiting discovery. The 40-kilometer-long lakeshore between Yverdon-les-Bains and Murten
offers a wealth of opportunities for relaxing at the many lidos and in the unspoiled countryside. Against the backdrop of this glorious panorama, the town of Sainte-Croix produces wonderful music boxes and automatons. They date all the way back to the discovery of the music box by Antoine Favre, a Geneva-based watchmaker, in 1796. Between 1811 and the end of the 19th century, the town established itself as the global center for music box production and musical automatons. Genuine artisans, singularly passionate about their work and sometimes known as “dream-makers”, fashioned them from wood and metal. Some of the more outstanding examples of their craft can be admired at the Centre International de la Mécanique d’Art (CIMA) in Sainte-Croix and at the Musée Baud for mechanical musical instruments in L’Auberson.
MUSEUMS, EVENTS AND EATING OUT Musée CIMA in Sainte Croix
The museum houses a collection of music boxes and other musical instruments that are all masterpieces of precision mechanics and fine cabinetmaking. www.musees.ch
Musée Baud in L’Auberson
Many of the items at this museum, which specializes in musical automatons, can still be played. www.museebaud.ch
Carnival bands from all over Switzerland play and perform to the delight of thousands of spectators on the streets, in processions and in marquees. www.carnaval.ch
Sainte-Croix summer market
Mid-August is time for the annual summer market, which draws over 100 stallholders to the town center and offers a rich choice of regional products. www.sainte-croix-les-rasses-tourisme.ch
Sainte-Croix gourmet hike
What better way for nature lovers to discover the Jura’s hiking trails? The excursion includes breaks for mouth-watering specialties at the Mont-de-la-Mayaz, Sollier and Casba alpine huts? A splendid time is guaranteed for all. www.sainte-croix-les-rasses-tourisme.ch
ve u si l c x n eit to oix! a n W i v is t e - C r n Sai
There is one location where the focus is exclusively on industrial activity. Here, Carl F. Bucherer has for some time developed and manufactured its own in-house watch movements and functional modules. On July 1, 2007, Bucherer Montres S.A. acquired THA (Téchniques Horlogères Appliquées) in Sainte-Croix and integrated it into the company under the name of Carl F. Bucherer Technologies. The cornerstone was thus laid for Lucerne’s independent watch brand to fulfill a long-time ambition: that of manufacturing movements from start to finish in its own workshops. In no time at all, the results spoke for themselves: the workforce expanded from seven to 40 employees. Today, most of the staff at Carl F. Bucherer Technologies are qualified watchmakers, engineers, designers, mechanics, supply chain managers, project managers and process engineers. Expansion of the workshop floor to 2000 sq.m has made space for the many newly acquired machines that have pushed up the level of vertical integration to 70 percent. Now, following upgrading of its technical equipment and workforce, Carl F. Bucherer is geared to take on new challenges. Shortly after taking over THA, Bucherer Montres S.A. unveiled the CFB A1000, an automatic caliber with a peripheral rotor patented by Carl F. Bucherer. Other sophisticated modules have since been developed on the basis of this movement, the latest of which was the CFB A1011 caliber unveiled this year. As a further development of the in-house CFB A1002 caliber, the CFB A1011 shows the remaining power reserve with a hand and thus references classic elements in watch design. It was first used in the Manero PowerReserve. In the meantime, Carl F. Bucherer Technologies S.A. has become a center of excellence for research, development and manufacture, with wide-ranging expertise, a high level of creativity, and a state-of-the-art infrastructure. Every process and production stage stems from a concept based on the company’s own legally protected procedures. The aim of this is simple: to develop and
Carl F. Bucherer invites one reader of INSIGHT by Carl F. Bucherer on a very special kind of trip to Sainte-Croix. Apart from a private viewing and tour of the Carl F. Bucherer manufacturing facility, the winner and one companion can look forward to a night at the five-star Hôtel Palafitte, which is situated – literally – over the lake. Don’t miss your chance to win this fabulous prize: www.carl-f-bucherer.com You can also return the enclosed subscription coupon for INSIGHT by Carl F. Bucherer, which automatically qualifies you for the draw. Closing date for entries: February 28, 2014. Further information about the Hôtel Palafitte: www.palafitte.ch Employees of Bucherer Montres S.A. are not eligible to take part in the competition. The draw takes place under the supervision of a notary. The prize cannot be taken in cash. No correspondence will be entered into. Only one entry per person.
build mechanisms and additional functions that are sensible, useful and attractive. Every single timepiece has to satisfy the company’s exacting quality requirements. Which means ensuring that every single watch and movement that leaves the workshops has been thoroughly tested. For its owner, it will be a perfect combination of aesthetic appeal, traditional watchmaking craftsmanship and advanced technology. In Sainte-Croix, Carl F. Bucherer has chosen a location in which watchmaking enjoys a very special status. Originally produced by workers in their homes, watches here were industrially manufactured from the mid18th century onward. It was thus the watchmaking industry that put the tiny village on the road to major economic success all those years ago and helped write its economic history.
Restaurant des Cluds
The Chablais family receive their guests at a chalet built in 1938 in an area steeped in tradition and local history. www.restaurantlescluds.ch/2008/ INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº8 – 27
The Alacria collection
Hommage to femininity Joy, passion and a zest for life: the meanings of the word Alacria are as multifaceted as the dazzling ladies’ watch collection from the House of Carl F. Bucherer. As early as 1919, founder Carl Friedrich Bucherer launched his first in-house ladies’ watch collection. With designs inspired by the Art Déco style, the dainty jewelry watches exerted a singular charm. These historic roots are reflected to this day in the Alacria collection, a series of exquisite wristwatches that enchant women all over the world. The finely proportioned aesthetic of the Alacria’s case is distilled in a sculptured, appealing shape: “The true value of a fine watch lies in the attention to detail.” In the case of the Alacria, this approach led to the creation of a unique and, more importantly, new case shape in the world of watchmaking. Held securely in place by screws, the case with its free-form surfaces and spherically domed sapphire glass is incredibly difficult to make and calls for high-precision watchmaking and jewelry making skills. The concave case body creates the most spectacular reflections and turns each model into a genuine eye-catcher. With gentle, rounded
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contours, the sides of the Alacria are uncompromising: the highly sophisticated reflection of incident light makes the unconventional form even more fabulous to look at. Whether finished in simple gold, set with diamonds or a gemstone pavé, the variety of the Alacria collection is incomparable. The elegant Alacria TwoTone is housed in a bicolor case made of stainless steel and rose gold. The classically arranged dial is divided into three sections by two pale, narrow ver-
tical stripes and one broader, patterned stripe, adding a touch of grandeur to the face, which is beautifully rounded off by the wonderfully finished hour and minute hands in rose gold. The Diva Gothic is considered to be a masterpiece of the ladies’ line. Set with 211 rubies and 169 brilliant diamonds, it skilfully combines the magic of love, grandeur and Gothic architecture. The 54 rubies on the bezel have been transformed into rectangular, rhombus-like, baguette-cut diamonds. The polished surfaces of the gem-
stones are set downward, while the rounded, uncut body of the stones faces upward. It is a rare and special process that lends the watch an additional touch of uniqueness. Another extraordinary design can be found in the Alacria Diva WildCat. Both dial and case feature an exotic tiger design set with black, yellow and orange-colored sapphires: an enchanting mix of grace and luxury to bedeck the wearer’s wrist. Perhaps the most exotic beauty in the Alacria line is the Alacria Diva Bamboo.
INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº8 – 29
Eighty-three orange and black baguette-cut sapphires represent the slim forms of the bamboo on the white gold dial of this fabulous timepiece. Enclosing it all is an eye-catching case in white gold, which is likewise set with 90 orange and black baguette-cut sapphires and 239 round black sapphires. An orange sapphire also sets off the gold crown to perfection. The latest addition to the family, the Alacria RoyalRose, radiates a majestic charm. Floral, relief-like elements twirl across the delica30 â€“ INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER NÂş8
tely finished dial. The blossoms, formed from 89 sapphires and 26 brilliant diamonds, harmonize perfectly with the motherof-pearl dial. Over 1300 sparkling white brilliant diamonds decorate the Alacria Swan. Uniquely brilliant and uniquely finished, it is the masterpiece of the Alacria collection. At the same time, it is a tribute to the Bucherer family and company, as well as the city of Lucerne, the city in which the Carl F. Bucherer watch brand was founded.
In the Alacria line, Carl F. Bucherer combines contemporary elegance with sensuality, aiming it at women who are part of a multidimensional world and wish to underscore their personality with an exclusive jewelry watch. It is a line of enormous character, unifying style and elegance with freshness and joie de vivre. It is a source of pleasure now, but has the potential to be a muchloved classic.
Sustainable Luxury for tomorrow’s
Walking the tightrope between old and new, between tradition and the modern world, the Arabian Gulf states no longer see themselves merely as suppliers of oil, but as one of the role models for economic development in the future. These countries are not only working assiduously to develop a new culture and a modern society but also creating impressive and visionary spaces that give expression to this process of change. An exemple of the new freedom is the state of Dubai, which, unlike ancient Arabia, does not look upon globalization as a danger so much as an opportunity. Its progressive philosophy no longer puts the state but the individual at the center of things. Its dogmatism has made way for a more pragmatic
United Arab Emirates (UAE) in general and the Gulf region in particular have benefited enormously from their position as a “safe haven”. Even today, economic growth continues at breakneck pace in the Gulf states, above all in the UAE, in the kingdom of Saudi Arabia and in the states of Kuwait and Qatar. These exciting developments have turned the Arab world into a magnet for tourists from all over the world, who come, certainly, to be amazed, but above all to shop. According to figures published by Visa Inc., Visa cardholders visiting the UAE in 2012 spent USD 4.7 billion – that’s 17 percent more than in the same period in 2011. And regional duty-free shopping, which generated
“ITS POPULARITY IN THE ARABIAN GULF STATES CAN BE ASCRIBED TO THE VALUE OF SUSTAINABLE LUXURY” approach that gives people more room for self-realization. This change in perspective has garnered international approval and worldwide trust, and is manifested in numerous investment projects that are bringing boom times to the region’s expanding markets. From a business point of view, the Gulf states, whose investments and participating interests are turning them into a major economic force internationally, can look forward to a prolonged period of increasing prosperity. In recent years, for example, the
24 percent more revenues in 2012 in Abu Dhabi alone, is booming as never before. This trend is confirmed by the Visa study ‘Tourism Outlook: UAE’, which in terms of purchases sees an average growth rate of 20 percent. Apart from the increase in tourist figures, developments in the retail trade have also made the Gulf state markets an attractive destination for retail traders and international luxury brands. In the 13th edition of the Global Retail Development Index (GRDI), four GCC states make it into the
Nader Freiha Managing Director at MPP Middle East Media LLC
Top 20, including the UAE in fifth place, followed by Kuwait, Saudi Arabia and Oman in places 9, 16 and 17, respectively. Among the luxury brands that have gained a foothold in our market is the fine watchmaking brand of Carl F. Bucherer, whose unique development I have been following on the spot. In this cultural environment, too, Carl F. Bucherer has managed to retain its exclusiveness and to maintain the successful process of internationalization it embarked upon over twelve years ago. Among other things, its popularity in the Arabian Gulf states can be ascribed to the value of sustainable luxury: this is something the brand has embodied for as long as anyone can remember and for which there is a strong demand in the new Arab world. Looking into the future, prospects remain promising for the development of the luxury goods industry in general and for Carl F. Bucherer in particular. Driven by economic power, an expanding trade presence, growing confidence and increasing demand from consumers, the industry’s sales in this region seem set to continue rising and to offer a genuine increase in value: particularly for brands like Carl F. Bucherer, which build on values such as tradition and innovation. The unique watches from the Lucerne watch manufacturer fit in perfectly with this new age of individuality and have a finger on the pulse of a world in which people increasingly think of themselves – and of tomorow.
INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº8 – 31
THREE TIME ZONES AT A GL ANCE
PATRAVI TRAVELTEC FOURX Selected rose gold, precious titanium, extra-hard high-tech ceramic and tough natural rubber give time a new material form. Globetrotters will find that the Patravi TravelTec FourX brings them the perfect combination of luxury and high-tech. It displays three time zones at once and jumps across time zones at the touch of a button. With Carl F. Bucherer’s engineering on a miniature scale, your journey through time can begin. BOUND TO TRADITION – DRIVEN BY INNOVATION
Published on Dec 3, 2013