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125-year Jubilee A Swiss history of time




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Sascha Moeri, CEO Bucherer Montres S.A.



125-year Jubilee



Sylvie Ritter, Managing Director BASELWORLD



Manero PowerReserve



Abraham Koshy, Group Manager Rivoli Group LLC





Fashion for Floors Q&A with Sylvester Stallone





People Christian Both, Manager Bucherer Berlin Kudamm




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Jacqueline Schröder, Manager Bucherer Berlin Friedrichstrasse







Patravi TravelTec FourX Limited Edition Daring to be different Alacria RoyalRose


INSIGHT by Carl F. Bucherer Issue 7 | April 2013 Published by Carl F. Bucherer a brand of Bucherer Montres S.A. Langensandstrasse 27 CH-6002 Luzern Tel. +41 41 369 70 70 Fax +41 41 369 70 72 Project management and Editorial Team Bucherer Montres S.A., Luzern Convensis Group, Stuttgart Art Direction Kerstin Vorwalter, Ulm


Dear Readers, In 2013, we celebrate the 125th anniversary of Bucherer’s foundation. And that means we can look forward to even more excitement in a year already destined to be a memorable one. Because, following the redesign and opening of BASELWORLD in 2013 after several years’ planning and preparation, the world’s biggest fair for the watch and jewelry industry enters a new era. Under the motto “Brilliance Meets”, the fair has created more room for innovative ideas. In this issue of Insight, we talk about them to Managing Director Sylvie Ritter. To mark the event, Carl F. Bucherer has an impressive new stand concept: it is a fitting way to celebrate – and to maintain – 125 years of Swiss watchmaking history. The fact that Carl F. Bucherer is firmly on the right track is reflected in an award won by the Manero ChronoPerpetual in October 2012, when it was voted best chronograph at the “Middle East Premier Awards for Watches, Jewellery and Pens” held in Bahrain. The timepiece’s integrated perpetual calendar aptly summarizes Carl F. Bucherer’s philosophy: a philosophy that brings together an impressive corporate history with technical innovation and uses this as the foundation of its future. With the same exemplary dedication and passion demonstrated by our interviewees Jacqueline Schröder and Christian Both, the General Managers at Bucherer’s stores in Berlin, or Abraham Koshy, Group Manager at the Dubai Rivoli Group.

But apart from our own staff, we have to thank the people who wear watches by Carl F. Bucherer. They are the individuals who particularly appreciate the brand spirit and take it out to the rest of the world. One prominent fan is American actor Sylvester Stallone, who shares his enthusiasm for the Patravi TravelTec with us in this edition. I’m delighted that we are able to show you the latest addition to the line, the Patravi TravelTec FourX Limited Edition, on the following pages, together with other new products like the Manero PowerReserve and the Alacria RoyalRose. I’d also like to invite you to pay a visit with me to the incredibly diverse world of carpets on display at the Monte Carlo FASHION FOR FLOORS store owned and run by design specialist and floorcovering couturier Kamyar Moghadam, who is currently transforming the world’s floors. After all, space and time are two of the most essential aspects of our existence. I wish you fascinating reading. Yours truly,

Sascha Moeri,

CEO Bucherer Montres S.A. INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº7 – 3


125-year jubilee

A Swiss history of time


The year 1888 was an extraordinary one. It was a year of change, of upheaval, and of transformation. It was also the start of a new era in the history of Swiss watches. Together with his wife Luise, Carl Friedrich Bucherer opened his first store under the name of Bucherer at Lucerne’s Falkenplatz. Carl Friedrich obtained the necessary startup capital, together with a finely developed sense of aesthetics, from his father, who had already established a thriving toy business in Basel. Bucherer’s first years in Lucerne were marked by economic upturn and expansion. The boutique at Falkenplatz soon proved to be too small, and the Bucherers found new premises at Kapellplatz and in Kapelgasse. Wisely, Carl Friedrich Bucherer chose to give his sons the benefit of a good education. Ernst spent three years at a watchmaking school in St. Imier while Carl Eduard Bucherer embarked on an apprenticeship as a goldsmith in London. In 1913, after completing their training, the two brothers joined the family-owned company. Ernst and Carl Eduard complemented each other perfectly, so it came as no surprise when they decided to open a jewelry-making workshop and store in Berlin. The shop at number 47, Unter den Linden, rapidly established an extremely good reputation, which attracted a great deal of customers and even the attention of the Emperor himself. Soon, the two brothers had been appointed official purveyors to the imperial court. The crowning glory of these

successful years came with the launch of their first ladies’ collection in 1919. It was, above all, political unrest in Berlin that prompted Carl Eduard and Ernst Bucherer to give up their business and leave the country. But Ernst Bucherer also had the itch to travel. So, in the 1920s, together with his brother Carl Eduard and sisterin-law Wilhelmina, he founded wholesale trading operations in Argentina and Chile. These successful years, however, were to be marred by a cruel blow of fate.

Wilhelmina Bucherer-Heeb would regularly commute between the continents to purchase the watches and jewelry needed for their South American operations.




During one crossing, in fall 1927, the ship she was traveling on sank, and Wilhelmina, together with 313 other passengers, perished. This was one twist of fortune too many for Carl Eduard and Ernst, and they returned to the family business. In the following years, thanks also to their experience and resolve, the company continued to grow. Its popularity with customers and the economic upturn of the 1930s culminated in the brothers’ acquisition of spacious premises at Schwanenplatz 5, which has remained the flagship store to this day. This successful era was overshadowed by the death of founder Carl Friedrich Bucherer. From now on, Carl Eduard and Ernst took over the day-to-day running of the company. During times of economic crisis and the war years, the brothers clung firmly to their father’s vision. Driven by a quest for absolute quality and the desire to ensure the individuality and uniqueness of their jewelry and watches, the two men consolidated their position. In the following years, Bucherer established itself both as a specialist for gold and silver products and for its sales of quality timepieces.

In 1966, Bucherer opened a branch in Basel, the city of its founding fathers. From this point on, more and more branches were added. In Bucherer’s watchmaking workshops, the main emphasis was on chronometers. These certified, high-precision watches are considered to be iconic for their time. Around 15,000 of them left the workshops in the period up to 1968, securing Bucherer a place in the top three Swiss manufacturers of chronometers.

The 1950s began with a severe setback for the family and the company: on February 2, 1951, Carl Eduard Bucherer died. From this point on, Ernst Bucherer assumed sole responsibility for the firm, which had by now been converted into a limited company. But he upheld his father’s vision and worked with a will of iron at building it up for the future. The prosperity of the 1950s and his unflagging hard work did the rest.



The 1970s are regarded as a decade that saw a generation change. This was true for Bucherer, too. As space got tighter and tighter at the Lucerne headquarters on Schwanenplatz, the company started work in 1970 on the construction of new head offices in Schönbühl, which it moved into in August 1973. The new head offices were a symbol of Bucherer’s forward-looking belief and its determination to continue expanding, as attested by the more than 800 employees. In 1972, Ernst Bucherer decided to retire from day-to-day operations and left management to his son, Erich, and nephew, Jörg G. Bucherer. Ernst Bucherer died on March 26, 1977. The company remained under family control with Jörg G. Bucherer at the helm. In the 1970s, despite the quartz invasion and economic crisis, Bucherer watches remains one of the top-selling brands in Switzerland. One of the technological highlights of the decade was the Archimedes: combined with a world time mechanism, it was a diver’s watch that took the plunge into another dimension. In the 1980s, Bucherer achieved one of the highest retail sales in the Swiss watch and jewelry industry. It owes its large circle of loyal customers mainly to the outstanding service offered by its staff, but also to its adaptability and independence. For, at one and the same time, Bucher was retailer, wholesaler, and producer, and could offer its customers unusual, top-quality products.


Among the many different ladies’ and men’s models made by the Bucherer brand was the Grand Tonneau. It was an unconventional creation in 18 K gold, and the latest addition to the Archimedes family. But Bucherer’s workforce was also growing: on the occasion of the company’s centenary in 1988, it had around 840 employees. Sixty watchmakers alone were responsible for service and repair work. Another thing that became increasingly apparent for Bucherer was the importance of its mechanical wristwatches. But the enormous popularity of the Archimedes line amongst its customers, prompted Bucherer to invest more funds in research and the development of this special watch. At Bucherer, the year 2000 heralded a new age. And in 2001, as a tribute to his own grandfather and company founder Carl F. Bucherer, Jörg G. Bucherer repositioned the in-house brand of the same name. It was a masterly stroke that enabled the company to strengthen its watchmaking professionalism and place greater emphasis than ever before on mechanical timepieces. In 2013, Carl F. Bucherer now prides itself on an exceptional reputation in the watch industry, with the focus largely on the 125th jubilee. Thanks to its innovative flair, which consistently combines traditional values and technological expertise with impeccable style, the company is ideally equipped for the future.

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Sylvie Ritter

Managing Director BASELWORLD


Insight: Mrs. Ritter, you are one of the most important individuals in the international luxury goods industry. Did you always want to work in this sector? Sylvie Ritter: I’d always wanted an interesting and varied position in an international environment, and I was fortunate enough to achieve that some time ago. As with so many other aspects of life, you can’t always plan your career in advance. The fact that I work in the fair industry, and more specifically for BASELWORLD, is bound up with a great deal of serendipity. But after nearly 20 years, I feel very much at home in my surroundings. Insight: This year, Baselworld 2013 is all about new premises and a new image. Are you satisfied with the results of the new design and the extension? Sylvie Ritter: I think we can be extremely pleased. The new building was completed on time and on budget, and we are over the moon with the result. Now we have a 10 – INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº7

unique, modern infrastructure that offers the ideal setting for our exhibitors and for BASELWORLD. Insight: Is there any particular aspect of the new design for the fair complex that has remained in your memory? Sylvie Ritter: When we first saw the plans for the new halls a few years ago, we really had no idea what lay in store for us. It was

only when we paid our first visit to the building site in late fall that we got a sense of the scale involved in a hall that’s 420 meters – nearly 1,400 feet! – long. Personally experiencing the dimensions for myself was really very impressive. Insight: Apart from the big-name watch groups, smaller independent brands like Carl F. Bucherer also play a significant role in the market. How important are these brands to BASELWORLD? Sylvie Ritter: For many years now, BASELWORLD has aimed to represent the entire global market, and that will re-

main so in the future. We are unable and have no desire to present only the big groups. And through their presence here, independent and important brands like Carl F. Bucherer help us to live up to this ideal. Insight: The world’s luxury goods industry has been enjoying a boom for years now. Even crises have had little effect on demand. How do you expect things to develop in this industry in the future? Sylvie Ritter: In the years ahead I think we’ll see even more concentration in the market than we have now, which means that new or relatively young brands could be in for a tough time. Apart from that, I’m convinced that factors such as the brand element, the brand world and brand products will become increasingly important. And even more than in the past, I think consumers will take their lead from brands that represent values they can rely on. Insight: What are your personal goals in the years ahead? Sylvie Ritter: Without false modesty, I can safely say that we’ve succeeded in positioning BASELWORLD as the industry’s most important event worldwide. Our task now is to maintain and consolidate our Number One position. In future, we must – and will – continuously improve BASELWORLD to ensure that we stay well ahead of the rest. My own personal goal on the way to achieving that – after consulting our exhibitors, of course – is to make the right decisions and to get the best people on board. Insight: The fair business calls for a lot of organization and sales talent, but creative ideas are also very important. Where do you get your inspiration? Sylvie Ritter: If you look beyond the fair sector and pay attention to what’s going on generally in the business world, and if you listen carefully to what customers and suppliers have to tell you, you’ll find no shortage of inspiring ideas. When other watch and jewelry fairs start using our ideas, we can be certain that we’re on the right track with our fair and design concepts. Insight: Has anything ever happened at BASELWORLD that you’ll never forget?

Sylvie Ritter: It’s mainly the challenging situations, where you need to find a solution quickly, that remain imprinted in your memory. But I can also remember plenty of happy moments. For me personally, the absolute highlight of every fair comes after all the hard work of preparation, at the opening ceremony. This gives me a chance to greet our guests from all over the world, many of whom I know well. Insight: What was the funniest experience you’ve had in your capacity as Fair Director? Sylvie Ritter: I’m always very pleased that amusing things can happen even when you’re involved in something as deadly earnest as a fair for the equally serious luxury goods industry. For all that, there are many incidents that only seem funny in retrospect.

Insight: Let’s talk about you personally. A good week starts … Sylvie Ritter: …when the previous week never stopped. Insight: For me, time is … Sylvie Ritter: … even more valuable than for most other people, because it’s only thanks to time as a dimension that we need clocks and watches to measure it. And, ultimately, they are my daily bread. Insight: Money makes me … Sylvie Ritter: … not happier, and not unhappier. But it does make me more independent. Insight: The last book I read was … Sylvie Ritter: … “Digital Dementia” by Manfred Spitzer. Insight: When I’m 60, I want … Sylvie Ritter: ... deep laughter lines.


Sylvie Ritter, Managing Director BASELWORLD



Manero PowerReserve

Keeping Track of time The Manero PowerReserve is the latest addition to the Manero line. With an integrated power reserve display and a precision CFB A1011 in-house movement, the timepiece combines high-level functionality with sophisticated technology and lets the wearer know how much tension remains in the spring. The power reserve display is a design element with a long tradition: the feature originally found use in marine chronometers. Longitude can only be calculated accurately if a watch's power reserve remains more or less constant, because a mainspring that is fully wound or no longer

under tension can cause inaccuracies. The display rapidly established itself in wristwatches, too. It shows both the tension in the mainspring and the remaining running time. FUNCTIONALITY AT A GLANCE A single indicator on a semicircular display at 3 o'clock shows the wearer how much power remains in the watch's mainspring. When the reserve is getting low, the indicator moves into an area with red markings.

Likewise visible at a glance are the day of the week display at nine o'clock, the distinctive big date display at eleven o'clock and the small seconds at six o'clock. The silvercolored dial is divided into inner and outer rings that differ slightly in color. The pale inner circle accommodates all the functions while the outer ring is slightly darker in color and punctuated by silver indices. The eye moves easily across the changing surfaces of the dial to the stainless steel case, which is 42 millimeters in diameter and 12.54 mm high. The watch is suitably rounded off with a brown alligator leather strap or a stainless steel bracelet. A CLASSICALLY INSPIRED MOVEMENT Beating away at the heart of the Manero PowerReserve is the in-house CFB A1011 automatic caliber, which is used here in a Manero for the first time. As a further development of the in-house CFB A1002 caliber, the CFB A1011 shows remaining power on an indicator and thus references one of the classical elements in watch design. One of the watch's most noteworthy features is the peripheral, bidirectionally winding rotor, which supplies the automatic movement with energy. The patented dynamic shock absorption system is extremely efficient and reliable.


All in all, the Manero PowerReserve skilfully combines the classic with the modern and is thus perfectly in tune with the spirit of the time.



Abraham Koshy

Group Manager Rivoli Group

“Tick, tock, tick, tock: The regular beat of my father’s wristwatch was to have a major influence on my career. From an early age, I was utterly fascinated by everything to do with watches: the sound, the technology and, not least, the beauty of the materials and the design. Being able to forget time occasionally is wonderful,” enthuses Abraham Koshy, Group Manager of the Rivoli Group, “but I also like being in the right place at the right time.” For him, his decision to join the Rivoli Group is a case in point. Headquartered in Dubai’s Sheikh Zayed Road, and with over 110 international brands on its books, the Rivoli Group is synonymous with retailing in luxury and upmarket lifestyle items in the Arabian Peninsula. It is there, since 1988, that Abraham has been in charge of all the world’s leading luxury watch brands, among them Carl F. Bucherer. The range of top-quality items includes eyewear and leather accessories and extend all the way to writing instruments. In the United Arab Emirates, Qatar, Oman and Bahrain , no fewer than 385 retail stores belong to the Rivoli Group. The widest choice of luxury watch brands can be found at the Dubai Mall, the world’s largest shopping complex. This is also the location of Carl F. Bucherer’s own boutique, which, with neighbors like Breguet, 14 – INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº7

Glashütte Original, Blancpain, Omega, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Zenith, is in the very best of company. But it is not only an exclusive brand portfolio that has made the Group the force it is today. Its successful management of a 1,600-strong workforce is exemplary. The central idea behind it is that the personal commitment of every single member of staff contributes to the company’s overall success and strengthens the foundations on which it stands. Apart from this, principles such as professionalism and a strong sense of affinity with the products are a further bond for the highly qualified team. To enable them to provide the impeccable service demanded by a discerning clientele from many different cultural backgrounds, the company’s employees receive regular training in empathizing with customers and their needs. In the Middle East, for instance, it is a widely held tenet that “nothing is impossible, and if it is not yet possible, then someone will make it possible. It’s essential for people to grasp this if they are to understand developments in the region,” explains Koshy. As a perfect expression of the principle in action, he points to the Emirate of Dubai itself, which astutely combines tradition with modernity.

The souks – the traditional markets that are both a prominent feature and the business center of any Arabian town or village – demonstrate how harmoniously opposites can be combined. “Particularly worthy of note is the gold souk in the Deira district of Dubai. With over 300 retailers, it is the world’s biggest conglomeration of gold dealers, so its nickname – City of Gold – is well deserved,” says Koshy. The tradespeople and artisans who work in the vibrant atmosphere of the souks share a philosophy that makes a modern approach to business as important as traditional flair. The combination also typifies the spirit of the Carl F. Bucherer brand. While never losing sight of its invaluable Swiss roots, it coherently combines the traditional with the modern.

A vivid contrast to the hustle and bustle of Dubai’s souks is the impressive backdrop of recently completed buildings and their extravagantly futuristic architecture. As functional units and attractions for visitors from all over the world, Dubai’s monumental masterpieces soar into the sky and radiate the allure of a high-end metropolis. Probably the most recent addition to the city’s attractions is the “At.mosphere”, which Koshy mentions as a particularly hot inside tip. “Apart from its forward-looking approach to food, it also boasts staggering views,” he says, in raptures. Up on the 122nd floor of the 442-meter-high Burj Khalifa, it has already secured its place as the world’s highest gourmet restaurant – at least in a building. Last year, fashion designer Giorgio Armani opened his first hotel in the same high-rise. As in his eight restaurants worldwide, among them the legendary Peck Deli in Milan, the interior is the work of the designer himself. All 160 luxuriously fitted

hotel rooms echo the theme of Armani’s personal fashion philosophy and are thus an architectural reflection of his approach to style. Koshy believes this is the expertise that marks out Carl F. Bucherer. “The singular design of the watches is symbolic of their inner value: for sophisticated, intelligent technology that is developed in-house and deserves an appropriate setting.” Apart from the Armani Hotels, there is no shortage of other chic places to stay. The hotels and apartments on the man-made Palm Island, offer no end of upmarket residential facilities. The concept has shown that Dubai is good for more than a onenight stopover. “It’s rapidly developing into one of the world’s most exclusive leisure time and vacation centers,” explains Koshy. “This means that the local tourism industry is becoming more and more important for the economy as a whole.” Consisting of a five-kilometer “trunk” with a total of 17

fronds, Palm Jumeirah is protected against incoming waves by a crescent-shaped breakwater and has plenty of prime-location space to make it a particularly desirable residential location. For Koshy, it is clear that they symbolize Dubai’s economic strength. “The positive trend we are experiencing at the moment shows that the Middle East will remain a very important market for the luxury industry: the figures speak for themselves,” he explains. “It’s very satisfying when you can combine a forward-looking industry like this one with your own passion. In my case, that’s watches. Behind every watch there’s a story that links it to your own situation in life and makes it a valuable memento for as long as you live,” says Koshy. “This intangible quality is a source of inspiration to me, and I find it gratifying that as part of my job I can pass it on to our international customers. And they, in turn, spread the message to the rest of the world.” INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº7 – 15

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Fashion for Floors

Fashion Beneath Your Feet Whether it’s the Prince’s Palace of Monaco, London’s Saatchi Gallery, luxury yachts, or penthouses and up-market suites around the globe, FASHION FOR FLOORS is taking the world’s floor space by storm. The brains behind the brand is Kamyar Moghadam, who we caught up with at his imposing flagship store in Frankfurt, Germany. A gleam in his eyes and bubbling over with energy, he invited us to explore the shop’s 500+ square meter expanse of opulent living space. “We have a dynamic store concept here. Please feel free to touch things,” quips the proprietor, a native of nearby Hanau. His launch of FASHION FOR FLOORS in 2006 marked the realization of a longcherished dream. The seed of Kamyar’s passion for carpets was sown in early childhood. His father, Alexander Moghadam, had run a Persian carpet store in Monaco since 1970 and was


officially appointed as a purveyor to the ruling house of Grimaldi by Grace Kelly herself. His son and self-made man was a classmate of Tom Ford at the Parsons School in Paris, where the foundations of his future success were laid. He then spent many years drawing inspiration from every corner of the globe before returning to Monaco. Since 2006, he has carried the Moghadam tradition forward with FASHION FOR FLOORS. The newly founded brand, which has a deeply rooted emotional tie with carpet as an accouterment, rapidly became Official Purveyor to the Prince’s Palace. The partnership reached its high point on July 2, 2011. After exchanging the words ‘I do’ in Monte Carlo, Prince Albert II and Charlene Wittstock began their journey as man and wife by stepping out onto an unusual wedding present: a 103-meter length of cus-

tom-designed carpet from the house of FASHION FOR FLOORS. This objet d’art revolutionized the concept of the red carpet. Woven in the finest silk, it was resplendent in red and white, the Principality’s national colors. The splendid full-scale artwork is but one of many impressive carpet creations dreamt up by the couturier of floorcovering. In the Frankfurt store and in the original Monte Carlo boutique, vintage patchworks, 3Dlook carpets with honeycomb structures, colorful fleece cushions and luxurious cashmere plaids combine to create a vibrant setting. The in-store Color Lab gives free rein

to customers eager to express their own ideas and create their own personalized versions. To guarantee the right outfit for the floor, FASHION FOR FLOORS also offers an on-site service. “On request, our carpet designers will visit your home to measure up and gain their own impression of your spaces for recarpeting,” explains Moghadam. “People are also welcome to take carpets away ‘on trial.’ All hand-knotted carpets can be returned for a full refund of the selling price within one year of purchase, because personal tastes in fitting and furnishing are prone to rapid change.” Moghadam numbers his vintage patchworks made from old Persian rugs among the house specialties. Redolent of past life, as single-piece carpets they become sought-after items that appeal to the present-day nostalgia for things of the past. “Themes such as time, levels of reality and boundaries are the keys to my concept,” explains Moghadam as he elucidates the brand vision. “The store setting blurs the dividing line between dream and reality, and nurtures a longing for the must-have item. A visit to us is like dropping in to a tale from One Thousand and One Nights, a magic fable retold. Besides, the future owners know our creations are made to last a lifetime.” Several epochs

h S or t OR F L O cher w R F O vou I O N pin g H FA S shop na Wi

of contemporary history also inspire the design of FASHION FOR FLOORS. For example, the brashly patterned carpets with their poster-like motifs hark back to the Pop Art culture of the 1960s and 70s, recreating the utopia of a brighter world. They appeal to the senses and evoke the cheerful colors of nature writ large. Then there are 3D-look carpets with their filigree honeycomb and net structures, which also offer special perspectives. Their impact on living space is like that of multidimensional sculptures, which redefine the sense of space and its limits. Destruction and reconstruction become core features of the design. Other carpets are inspired by “sliced” precious stones, while fine hide plaids stuffed with cashmere epitomize elegance and material quality. Moghadam waxes lyrical: “Go ahead. Wrap yourself in one. The desire to linger becomes overwhelming. In a time when we increasingly equate being alive with being on the move, I prize intangible commodities such as ‘having time’ or ‘feeling secure’. It’s wonderful when a tangible object can instill these feelings.” Moghadam chooses not to dwell on the scale of his brand and focuses instead on his ongoing mission to conquer the f loor space of the world. After opening stores in Monte Carlo and Frankfurt in 2011, further boutiques are in the pipeline in Munich, Hamburg, Geneva, Milan and London. His new vision of carpet is destined to spread.


5 F 2,



 FASHION FOR YOUR FLOORS As a reader of “INSIGHT by Carl F. Bucherer”, you can win a voucher worth CHF 2,500 from FASHION FOR FLOORS and select your own customized carpet from the enormous range available. Enter today! Simply click complete and send off. Closing date for entries: July 31, 2013 The way to dress your floors. Kamyar Moghadam and the team from FASHION FOR FLOORS will only be too happy to help: Fashion For Floors Hanauer Landstrasse 196 60314 Frankfurt • Germany Phone + 49 (0) 69 43 05 87 06 Employees of FASHION FOR FLOORS and Bucherer Montres S.A. are not eligible for the competition. The draw will take place in the presence of a notary. The prize may not be taken in cash. The judges’ decision is final. Only one entry per person.



Q&A with e n o l l a t S Sylvester Actor Michael Sylvester “Sly” Gardenzio Stallone is one of Hollywood’s all-time greats. The characters he has portrayed, such as small-time boxer Rocky Balboa or Vietnam veteran John Rambo, have helped to write film history. Stallone is not only an actor but also a director, screenwriter and entrepreneur. His latest project is a new production of the legendary “Rocky” movies as a stage musical, for which he wrote the score. Audiences can look forward to classic Rocky numbers like “Eye of the Tiger” or “Gonna Fly 20 – INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº7

Now” as well as many new songs. There are also reencounters with some of the cult figures from the original films. No effort has been spared to make the performance as authentic as possible. Complex boxing sequences reminiscent of the exciting action scenes in the movie were choreographed specially for the musical. Here, the producers benefited from the experience of two professional boxers, brothers Vitali and Wladimir Klitschko, who are both on board as co-producers. The musical premiered in Hamburg, Germany, in November 2012.

We talked to Sylvester Stallone about “Rocky – the Musical”, his private life and, of course, the Carl F. Bucherer watches he wears himself. ROCKY THE MUSICAL Want fascinates you about music and musicals? Musicals allow you to hear the souls of the characters through music. What is your relationship to “Rocky”? “Rocky” is my way of expressing my philosophy through another source that provides

What is special about working with Wladimir and Vitali Klitschko? They are real world champions and were influenced by watching “Rocky” when they were young. When casting the roles for the musical, what was important to you? It was not important that the characters were identical to the movie. It was important that the characters had heart to them; to make the audience care about them.


As a boy, what did you want to be when you grew up? At first, I wanted to be an athlete, then a professional horseman, until I discovered acting.

What is your favorite model out of the CFB Collection? PATRAVI TravelTec is an incredible watch and I love the way it looks and feels.

What was your first job? Driving trucks in Philadelphia, unloading ships and eventually, cleaning out the lion cages at the New York Zoo. How do you define success? And what makes a strong will? Success is being able to project your feelings and have people understand your feelings. A strong will, to me, is not listening to other people but only to what your heart is telling you. What do you enjoy doing in your spare time? I enjoy painting and sculpting most of all.

What was your first watch? Was it a gift? My first good watch was a solid gold Rolex Submariner, that I received on the anniversary of “Rocky”. What made you wear a Carl F. Bucherer watch when attending the premiere of “The Expendables 2” in London? Sascha Moeri, a great guy, and I share the same passion for our work. When we met in London for the Expendables 2 Premiere, Sascha said, a fantastic franchise deserves a fantastic watch.


Photo: Getty Images (2), Stage Press (2), Daniel Bernhardt (1)

entertainment. Rocky is very biographical and reflects the ups and downs in my life.






1. (from left) Dr. Peter Tsoi, President of the Hong Kong Federation of Youth Groups; Jerry Tsang, CEO Bucherer Hong Kong Limited; Jackie Chan, actor and producer; Dr. Rosanna Wong, Director of the Dragon Foundation and of the Hong Kong Federation of Youth Groups; Wang Zhimin, Deputy Director of the Central Government Liaison Office in the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region; Henry Tang, First Secretary of the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region; Lu Xinhua, Member of the Committee of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of the People’s Republic of China and the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region; Lee Bing Bing, leading actress in the movie “1911”; Peter Lam, Chairman of the Media Asia Entertainment Group; Winston Chao, leading actor in “1911”; Shelley Lee, Director of the Dragon Foundation; Nina Lam, Vice Chairperson of the “1911” Charity Premiere Organizing Committee. 2. Carl F. Bucherer presents a check for its donation to the Dragon Foundation, represented by Dr. Rosanna Wong, Director of the Dragon Foundation and of the Hong Kong Federation of Youth Groups (left), together with Shelley Lee, Director of the Dragon Foundation. 3. Chong Chan-yau, President of the Hong Kong Blind Union. 4. John Tsang Chun-wah, Financial Secretary of the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region, with Jerry Tsang, CEO Bucherer Hong Kong Limited. 5. The Leader of the Year event was held in a magnificently appointed ballroom. 2








1. One of the items on the program was a guided tour of Lucerne with a photo opportunity at the Chapel Bridge, the city’s most famous hallmark. 2. Participants boarded a vintage bus for a journey back in time to the founding year of the first Bucherer store in 1888. 3. The Carl F. Bucherer PR family. 4. Yashika Kumar Agarwal (Dubai) and Léa Peterselle (France)




1. The Manero ChronoPerpetual features a perpetual calendar with correction-free display of the date, day, month and phase of the moon. Its movement recognizes the differing lengths of the months and knows exactly when the next leap year is due. 2. The awards were announced at a ceremony held on October 16, 2012, in the Kingdom of Bahrain. Three hundred guests, including royalty, dignitaries, celebrities, and diplomats, as well as journalists and experts from the watch and jewelry industries, attended the glamorous event. INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº7 – 23


Christian Both

Manager Bucherer Berlin Kudamm As the main artery running through the West of Berlin, the Kurfürstendamm, or Kudamm for short, is one of the most famous shopping streets in the world. It was laid out in the mid-16th century as a bridleway along which the Electors of Brandenburg could ride into the Grunewald forest. Imperial Chancellor Otto von Bismarck developed it into a broad boulevard on the French model from 1886. The mile-long promenade remains in vogue to this day and is even experiencing a building boom. Elegant shop windows line its wide pavements: the world-famous KaDeWe department store, exclusive brand-owned boutiques, warehouses and retail chain outlets. The array exerts a magnetic attraction on tourists and Berliners alike. Since 1996, this thriving setting has been home to the city’s first Bucherer store, which has already clocked up one relocation. In 2006 the boutique moved the short distance from no. 26 to no. 45, thus reaffirming its loyalty to the Kudamm. In 2010 Christian Both took over as the store’s General Manager. As we walk into the shop, which has about 100 square me24 – INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº7

ters of floor space, he is deep in conversation with a customer. Close customer relationships and excellent service are especially important to him, as he reveals later while talking to us. “We don’t define ourselves by price, but by our service and the exceptional experience we offer.” After training as an electrician and computer technician, he decided to launch out in a third direction and served an apprenticeship as a goldsmith. Together with his wife, the fifth generation of her family to work for Both jewelers in Saarbrücken, he continued to run the store before opening his own jeweler’s shop in Munich. His next move was to Bermuda, where he spent six memorable years, still in the jewelry trade, working in two shops. Work then took him to Hansen, another jeweler’s, in Hamburg, and on to Bremen, to Koch & Bergfeld, a manufacturer of silverware. As their Sales & Marketing Manager, he contributed to the construction of the company’s glass factory building. Then Tiffany & Co. recruited him for the Berlin department store, KaDeWe. Finally his move to Bucherer brought him into contact

with high-quality watches for the first time. He finds watchmaking every bit as fascinating as the world of jewelry. But, as a goldsmith by trade, he cannot imagine a life without the latter. It is a source of great satisfaction to him that the Kudamm branch records the highest percentage of jewelry sales of all Bucherer shops in Germany. His arrival has not only marked an improvement in customer service in the Kudamm shop but also altered the focus on the jewelry. Two nonproprietary jewelry brands

complement Bucherer’s own, and there is a sparkling range of jewelry made to order exclusively for Bucherer. The Bucherer brands are especially important to Both, and he would like to push them more actively in future – through special events, for example. “Our brands are doing fantastically well,” enthuses Both. His ideas for the future include inviting his exclusive clientele on visits to manufacturers of Swiss watches from the Bucherer portfolio, and extending these tours to the jewelry side of the business. As for the watch range, the General Manager admits that Carl F. Bucherer holds a special fascination for him. He is lavish in his praise: “The brand is simply fresh, different and highly innovative. It’s also managed to ignore the pressure put on watch manufacturers to invent new features for the annual trade fairs. Carl F. Bucherer stands for engineering brilliance and, in design terms, its models strike exactly the right note.” Both’s own Manero RetroGrade is never missing from his wrist. He describes it as “simply marvelous”. However, for the interview he’s wearing the Patravi EvoTec PowerReserve. “What a statement on my wrist”, he declares. He’s also very taken by the Manero MoonPhase, which he describes as “right on the nail.” He also believes that

there is a “stroke of genius” behind the Patravi TravelTec. His top recommendations for ladies are the Manero MonoGraph, which epitomizes the brand’s independence, and all the Adamavi models. These, he points out, offer excellent value for money. But, in Both’s opinion, there is no such thing as a ‘typical’ Carl F. Bucherer client. “The brand is too diverse, the range too versatile,” he insists, referring to the current collection. “One thing is sure: the classic buyer of Carl F. Bucherer timepieces is no stranger to watches and watchmaking. This client usually owns a watch, but is looking for something extra-special, something the other watch brands do not have.” It is a source of pleasure to him that he and his 14-strong team are able to offer this extra-special something consistently. He is also proud of the certified watch workshop annexed to the boutique, in which two watchmakers offer professional service on the premises. A goldsmith handles firstclass jewelry creations externally. Local customers account for the lion’s share of total footfall, precisely because they appreciate the high quality of service associated with this support. “They come to us because the Bucherer store has a permanent and much-valued presence on the Kudamm,” explains Both with satisfaction.

Foreign customers are still a minority at the shop on the Kudamm. Those tourists who do drop in are mostly from Asia or Russia. Both himself revels in direct customer contact, though this can lead to some odd moments. He tells the story of one gentleman who walked into the shop with an enormous painting under one arm, hoping to barter it for a watch. Firmly believing that the watch was worth less, he wanted to take his ‘change’ in cash. Both keeps his a sense of humor in these situations. “I’m sorry, but the painting won’t fit our till.” Both finds it vital that he has the resources necessary to offer first-class service to the relatively large crowds of people who visit the Kudamm and the Bucherer store. He spares no effort to maintain and deserve the trust and confidence customers have in him and his team. “I want us to stay the place we are today: a place where customers can look forward to receiving the best service possible.” In summer 2013, Christian Both will be leaving the company. We would like to thank him for his hard work and untiring commitment to the company and to wish him every happiness and success for the next stage of his career.



Jacqueline Schröder

Manager Bucherer Berlin Friedrichstrasse


With neighbors like Galeries Lafayette and Quartier 205, the store is in the very best of company and attracts not only prestige customers but also tourists from every corner of the globe. “Genuine Berliners” are also regular visitors to the prime-location store, where we meet up with Jacqueline Schröder the day before the start of Fashion Week in January. “I feel good here,” she says, “It’s a great location, and I just love being here.” During this period, she has her work cut out. Alongside the store’s lively day-to-day business, she’s supplied fashion designer Guido Maria Kretschmer with Bucherer jewelry for his show. The project was Schröder’s brainchild and, apart from the massive amount of coordination involved, calls for a sophisticated security concept. Nevertheless, her eyes sparkle as she explains the idea. “I’m the sort of person who adores enthusiasm and passion. Movement of all kinds, particularly flying, high-quality materials, classic cars – these are the things I love. And I actively seek out fascinating things.” As in November, barely five months after she took over. Under the motto “Magic Luxury”, she invited “Berlin to a glittering event.” During the opening celebrations, she and her team presented the entire Bucherer portfolio and left many of her 26 – INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº7

guests simply astonished. “’I’d no idea that Bucherer made such amazing products!’ People were incredulous, and I kept hearing things like that all evening.” Some months have passed since Schröder joined Bucherer. Berlinborn and mother of two sons, she had previously spent three years working in the city and on an international platform for MEISSEN. Thanks to her background in PR and marketing, she was not only active in the brand's relaunch but also in the introduction of its first jewelry collection. It was a step that took her to Baselworld where she happened to be at precisely the right moment. After joining Bucherer, she spent her first month at company headquarters in Lucerne before taking off on a tour of Germany and ending up at Friedrichstrasse. This has given her an anchor point, as she puts it, and today, that is a rare blessing. "It's not just that boats in general fascinate me, and that the style of the store is similar to a boat’s interior,” ex-

plains Schröder with a smile. “Bucherer as a brand is everything the name stands for: a family tradition with real values. All its professionalism, both as a brand and as a retailer, comes together, and I like that.” In December, Schröder and her sales force served 60 percent local and 40 percent foreign customers. She takes particular pleasure in the fact that she has pushed up the proportion of local clientele by 10 percent since July. Her heart lies in impeccable service, such as the arrangements the store can lay on for prominent hotel guests, who prefer to make purchases in the privacy of their

own rooms. Typical customers at the store include lawyers, doctors, guests at prestigious hotels and business people, especially individuals with an interest in culture: “Berlin, with all its aspirations, and the many people who have moved to the city,” says Schröder, summing up her regular clientele. “Our classic customer is discerning. He appreciates peace and quiet and professional advice, but he also likes to chat about culture and travel.” Her staff must be able to meet these needs. Apart from an appreciation of culture and values, she expects them to have a sound knowledge of the business, and to be professional and flexible. “They need to be ready to go if we get a call,” she explains. Foreign languages are another essential requirement for Schröder. Thanks to the Chinese course offered to employees, every single one of them speaks enough Chinese to be able to handle a sale.. When we ask her for an anecdote specifically about the store, she tells us about one of her most memorable sales experiences. “It was one of those gray Monday mornings, and nothing much was happening. At some point, a man came into the store while I was busy dealing with another customer, so all I heard was his deep, gravelly voice. I remember thinking “Wow!” When I approached him, I was taken by his appearance, which was a bit like a rock star’s. He was looking for a watch, he told me, and had been impressed by the Carl F. Bucherer models. In the end, he left with a watchstrap, but promised he’d be back. It was only later that I discovered he was a world-famous jazz musician.”

Although she’s at home with jewelry, Jacqueline Schröder is in uncharted territory when it comes to watches. But they fascinate and intrigue her. Carl F. Bucherer, Patek Philippe, Omega and Rolex are the brands that most readily appeal to her because they represent the values that are closest to those held dear by Bucherer. She is particularly impressed by the quality and singular character of the Carl F. Bucherer brand. She believes these are the attributes that appeal to the typical customers of the Lucerne watch manufacturing company. In rare case she will be dealing with first-time buyers, she explains, and during the sales pitch she likes to go into the values behind the Carl F. Bucherer brand. For 2013, Bucherer’s jubilee year, Schröder has big plans. She is naturally delighted that the jubilee roadshow to mark 125 years of Bucherer will be starting out at Friedrichstrasse from March the 11th to the 15th. Her five-year plan is simple, but honest. “I’d like to ensure that the good reputation of our branch remains intact.” Beyond that, she’s looking forward to the day when Friedrichstrasse is simply a “magnificent av-

enue with no building sites”, and to installing Berlin’s first watch lounge. To achieve this, she wants to remove the counters from the sales area and install discreet lighting to create a more intimate hotel or lounge-like atmosphere. “We need to get those customers in,” she explains. In 2013, she will be organizing her first “brand lounges”, as she calls them, with merchandising elements chosen specifically to suit the brands in question. The idea is to bring representatives and customers of the brand together, so they can talk about the products over drinks and snacks. “I’m not hoping for it to become something big, just efficient,” she explains. For June, she’s planning an evening devoted to the Carl F. Bucherer brand. Thanks to her close contacts with high-profile travel organizers, a regular flow of exclusive travel groups come to the store. This is something she plans to build on in the future. Like her local clientele, group travelers will feel very much at home there. Particularly those customers in search of something special, like the man with the twinkle in his eye, who comes into the shop looking for something special for the love of his life. For her, sales experiences like these are the most special of them all: for Jacqueline Schröder adores nothing more than the “the fairytales that can still be told here, when a man is able to delight the most special person in his life.”

At the Berlin Fashion Week in January 2013, the outfits for Guido Maria Kretschmer's show were perfectly complemented by jewels from Bucherer.



Patravi TravelTec FourX Limited Edition

Time assumes a new dimension

In the Patravi TravelTec FourX Limited Edition, Carl F. Bucherer’s watchmakers have succeeded in creating a common denominator not only of the various time zones but also of several exquisite and very different materials. Combined with finest 18 K rose gold, extra-hard high-tech ceramic is elaborately formed into a bezel that will satisfy even the most exacting demands. The unusual concept also involves the use of top-quality titanium and tough, high-resilience rubber. These select materials are united in a timepiece that celebrates Bucherer’s 125th anniversary and seems destined to be a talking point for watch lovers. FIRST-TIME INTEGRATION OF MOVEMENT AND CASE The development of the Patravi TravelTec, unveiled in 2006, faced the company’s engineers, watchmakers and designers with a set of completely new challenges. The specification sheet called for the legible display of three time zones simultaneously, which in 28 – INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº7

turn required a higher level of integration between movement and case than ever before. In the Patravi TravelTec, part of the mechanism needed to select the time zone is contained in the case and can be moved in two directions by an unusual push-piece. The entire process can be observed through an aperture in the side. FOR FREQUENT FLYERS AND GLOBETROTTERS The effort invested in the design was intended solely to make the watch easier to operate. The wearer uses the multifunctional push-piece to select the direction of travel, east or west, and presses it to skip a particular time zone. The flange, which features an imprinted 24-hour scale, rotates in both directions and guarantees that the red hour hand always shows the correct local time. Unlike other “world time watches”, the Patravi TravelTec is suitable both for

frequent-flyers and for individuals who need to communicate with other people all over the world. Travelers moving into another time zone will appreciate the ease with which the arrow-shaped hour hand can be turned forward or backward instantaneously, an hour at a time. People who frequently phone other time zones will find the combination of the 24-hour hand with the patented Patravi TravelTec mechanism extremely useful: they can use it to select the time zone for the person they wish to contact and see whether it is day or night. A COMBINATION OF LUXURY AND HIGH TECH With its instrument-inspired design cues, the Patravi TravelTec FourX Limited Edition has nothing to hide. The watchmakers gave it a skeletonized dial, which provides a view of the intricately decorated automatic movement. One eye-catcher in particular is the smartly designed date display with magnifying glass: the figures are milled out of

the date ring and remain invisible until they appear in the date window, set off against the red background. The choice of colors underscores and intensifies the overall technical look and feel of the watch. Matte black contrasts starkly with the fine rose gold, while a vibrant red indicates the important information on the dial.

The new Patravi TravelTec FourX Limited Edition is limited to 125 watches and pays tribute to Bucherer: to its tradition, innovation and complexity. The founding year of the first Bucherer retail store is engraved in the back of the case. So, let us embark on our journey through time (zones).



Daring to be different When slicing an apple, most people start at the top and cut lengthwise from the stalk down. But if you put the apple on its side and slice it laterally through the middle, you’ll find a star shape on the cut surface. This may come as a surprise, because you would never expect to find a star pattern inside an apple. Merely changing the direction of the cut gives you a completely new way of looking at things. This ability to change perspective – “to think outside the box” in modern business jargon – is one of the central principles of creativity and innovation, and applies to many different areas of our lives. Being successful in business is often a question of spotting a new way of presenting and marketing the same product. Take the story of the coffee shop owner in Tokyo, who used the suggestiveness of color as a means of reducing the amount of coffee needed for each cup and maximizing his profit. He invited 30 friends to taste four coffees, served in four cups of different colors: red, brown, cyan and yellow. Each cup contained the same amount of the same blend of freshly ground coffee, prepared in exactly the same way. His friends, of course, were not told this. After tasting the coffee, they gave him their verdict. Many thought the coffee in the cyan cup was too mild; others found the strength of the coffee in the yellow cups acceptable; but the coffee served in both the red and brown cups was judged to be the strongest, with over 90 percent of respondents agreeing that the 30 – INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº7

coffee in the red cup tasted the richest. From then on the café served coffee exclusively in red cups, which allowed the owner to serve a great product with lower overhead. The result? A win-win situation: satisfied customers and a very satisfied entrepreneur. Another shrewd businessman spotted a Ming Dynasty bronze dragon washbasin in a museum on a television program. When the handle of the basin was turned by hand, it splashed water around. Splashing water is an important part of many Chinese rituals and festivals, and the entrepreneur saw a golden opportunity. After carrying out market analysis and research, he had imitation basins made and placed at busy tourist locations, where people actually paid to turn the handle and splash water. Revenues exceeded all expectations, and the businessman profited simply from seeing things from a different point of view. Where others saw only the basin’s aesthetic and ornamental aspects, our entrepreneur spotted its economic and business potential. The lesson to be learned from these two everyday examples is simple. If we insist on

By Phillip Ng L.K. Well-known watch expert and founder of Watch Report

thinking in the same old, timeworn ways, we will remain stuck in the past and never create anything new. Or as one American inventor put it: “If you're doing something the same way you have been doing it for ten years, the chances are you are doing it wrong.” Innovation is a matter of breaking out of a fixed mindset and taking a step in a new direction. Cutting the apple to create the unexpected star shape is a perfect example. Which brings us to Carl F. Bucherer and the philosophy behind the brand. As its strapline declares, the company’s watches are made expressly “For people who do not go with the times”, for individuals who break out of the mold and dare to be different, for people who shape their own futures. Achieving this has meant cultivating a corporate culture and ways of thinking and acting in which everyone is an entrepreneur, working towards the success of the company and its products. This spurs on Carl F. Bucherer and its employees every single day, with every single model. Twelve years after the decision was made to launch the brand internationally, Carl F. Bucherer is quite clearly on the right track to achieving its ambitious goals.



Alacria RoyalRose

A majestic charm in the sign of the rose

With its incomparable elegance and appeal, the rose has traditionally been a symbol of love, beauty and the sheer joy of existence. For centuries, it has been revered as a divine phenomenon, extolled by poets and treasured by couples in love as a witness to their eternal bond. The myths and sagas of antiquity sing the praises of the flower’s magic. Their creators wax lyrical, describing the rose as the remnants of Aurora on Earth, or fashioned from the blood of Adonis. But even in the more down-to-earth gardens of ancient advanced civilizations, the queen of flowers was always a favorite. Whether in Persia, China or Babylon, the rose has always been cherished for its beauty and its fascinating fragrance. The Persians in particular began producing rose oils in an attempt to preserve the blossoms’ intoxicating fragrance. The flower soon became a favorite at royal and imperial courts, where it be-

came the emblem and coat of arms of many a king and emperor. Inspired by the rose’s symbolism and majesty, Carl F. Bucherer has created a timepiece that radiates a force all of its own: the Alacria RoyalRose. Elaborately encircled by blossoms, the dial eloquently expresses all the rose’s beauty and elegance. ORNAMENTAL ELEGANCE The Alacria’s classical form has been retained for this model: the concave flanks underscore the stylish watch’s unmistakably feminine contours. The superb case, set with 137 red sapphires and an equal number of brilliant diamonds, is made of 18 K white gold. The silver hands underscore the elegance of a genuinely distinctive timepiece. The Swiss CFB 1850 precision movement ticks away inside the case. A gem of its

kind, it is set off to perfection by the relieflike floral elements running across the entire dial. The blossoms, comprising 89 sapphires and 26 brilliant diamonds, harmonize exquisitely with the mother-of-pearl dial. A beautifully grained calfskin wrist strap rounds off the model. Made of such high-quality materials, the result is a wristwatch that – almost literally – causes time to blossom. SIGN OF THE TIMES As a metaphor for all life’s rich and varied colors, flowers assume an air of immutability in the Alacria RoyalRose, as they daintily and elegantly entwine the wearer’s wrist. The watch is a piece of jewelry worthy of a queen, a declaration of love that will resonate forever. INSIGHT BY CARL F. BUCHERER Nº7 – 31


INSIGHT by Carl F. Bucherer N°7 EN