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No6

BY CARL F. BUCHERER

PAtRAvi CALENdAR


iNSight Nº6

10

4

6 3

Editorial by Sascha Moeri, CEO Bucherer Montres S.A.

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Feature Story:

Patravi Calendar.

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Kurt Allemann – A portrait of a man of the first hour.

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New productS:

The Manero Collection.

17 14

Market NewS: Prince Jewellery & Watch Company Hong Kong.

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24 26

Impressions Baselworld 2012.

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catchiNg up with:

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Market NewS:

London Jewelers Long Island, New York.

Martin Husi, General Manager, Bucherer St. Moritz.

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SpoNSorShip:

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Fashion and style from SuitArt.

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FrieNdS oF the BraNd:

Daniel Bernhardt – from Worblaufen to Hollywood.

ViewpoiNt:

Nature of the beast – Watch companies.

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New productS:

Alacria Mini TwoTone.

Impressum iNSight by Carl F. Bucherer Issue 6 September 2012 Published by Carl F. Bucherer a brand of Bucherer Montres S.A. Langensandstrasse 27 CH-6002 Lucerne Tel. +41 41 369 70 70 Fax +41 41 369 70 72 insight@carl-f-bucherer.com www.carl-f-bucherer.com Editor-in-Chief Sara Gianella Editorial Team Sara Gianella Convensis Group, Stuttgart Art Direction Brenneisen Communications, Basel


editorial

Dear Reader Men – and, of course, women – of the first hour are much in demand. They impress with a stoical equanimity, the product of years of experience, of which others can only dream. Nowadays, men of this caliber are few and far between. Business today is short-lived and all too often employees soon move on to different pastures. Kurt Allemann is one of those men of the first hour. He has worked for the House of Bucherer for 35 years and since 1998 he has been in charge of product development for the Carl F. Bucherer brand. His expertise in the watch industry and his knowledge of watch development are probably unmatched. I am delighted, therefore, that he has chosen to share his story with us on pages 6 to 9 of our latest issue of “InsIght by Carl F. Bucherer”. On pages 4 and 5 we are proud to present the Patravi Calendar, which was launched earlier this year and gives wearers total control over time throughout the entire year. The Patravi Calendar features the CFB A1004, a Carl F. Bucherer functional module based on our in-house CFB A1000 caliber. Apart from the big date and day of the week displays, it features a practical calendar week display: all in all, another masterpiece developed and produced by the outstanding specialists in our own workshops at Carl F. Bucherer Technologies. With a team like them behind us, our outstanding performance comes as no surprise: in 2011, we recorded the best result since the company’s foundation. Our 350 points of sale in 25 countries clearly play a major role in the achievement of results like these and we present two of our retailers in this issue. On the one hand, London Jewelers in Long Island, NY, whose family-owned business with five stores is now in the fourth generation. And on the other, the Prince Jewellery & Watch Company in Hong Kong, one of the most successful and best-known watch and jewelry dealers in the metropolis, which took Carl F. Bucherer into its range in 2001. Working with partners like these fills me with pride.

It’s the kind of story you hear all the time: the one about the Swiss guy who tries his luck in Hollywood. Unlike most of those stories, which tend to end back in Switzerland, Daniel Bernhardt from Bern has made it big time. As an actor much in demand in action and martial arts movies, as a fearless stuntman, and as a passionate photographer. Despite his many years in the US, he has always maintained his links with Switzerland. With his family, but also with Carl F. Bucherer. Thanks to his commitment as a Friend of the Brand, he can depend on perfect time management in Hollywood. Read more about him on pages 24 and 25. Passion and perfection: those were the two characteristics underlying the refurbishment of the Bucherer store in St. Moritz in 2011. On pages 28 to 31, the store’s general manager Martin Husi explains what the new shop design means for Carl F. Bucherer and St. Moritz, lets us in on the kind of clients who visit the store, and gives us his tips for the hotspots you can’t afford to miss in St. Moritz. I wish you relaxing and inspiring reading! Best regards,

Sascha Moeri CEO Bucherer Montres S.A. InsIght by Carl F. buCherer Nº6 – 3


Feat Fe atur uree st stor oryy

Patra Pa travi vi Ca Cale lend ndar ar

Stylishly taking the weeks

in its stride.

“Time is what a clock measures,” Albert Einstein once said. In order to measure time, we have to divide it into individual intervals. Today, we think of it in terms of seconds, minutes, hours, days or months. However, it all becomes more problematic when we introduce the numbers of the calendar weeks. A year, of course, comprises twelve months, but the number of weeks varies. Some years we have 52 weeks, others 53. The attempt to create a systematic calendar for the weeks in the year dates back historically to the development of the Gregorian calendar, which divided the year into 52 complete weeks, or 364 days. The remaining two or three days are then integrated either in an additional 53rd week 4 – InsIght by Ca Carl rl F. bu buCh Cher erer er Nº 6

or into the first week of the new year. As a result, every five or six years we have an extra week in the calendar. In a 400-year cycle, we thus have 71 years with “leap weeks”, as they are known, and 97 leap years – those with 29 days in February. Different countries, Different ways of counting. In the course of history, different parts of the world have evolved different ways of counting the weeks in the year. In the US, for instance, the first calendar week of the

year always starts on January 1, regardless of what day it happens to be. It can therefore be anything from one to seven days in length. As a result, there can be between 52 and 54 calendar weeks per year, of which at least one is an incomplete week. On top of this, the first day of the week in the US is always Sunday.


In the German-speaking part of the world, the calendar is based on an international standard which states that the first calendar week of the year must have at least four days. In addition, a calendar week always starts on Monday. However, the first or last week of the calendar may overlap with the previous year or the following one. This explains why the 29th, 30th and 31st of December may be counted as part of the first week of the following year. On the other hand, it is also possible for the 1st, 2nd and 3rd of January to be counted with the last calendar week of the previous year. The advantage of this system is that every year has either 52 or 53 complete, i.e. seven-day, weeks. a weekly calenDar for the wrist. The calendar week system is used internationally to make the year more manageable, which is the reason why this practical function has been integrated into a new model from Carl F. Bucherer. The Patravi Calendar, which is housed in an eye-catching classical round case, is not less timeless in terms of its functionality. To facilitate this, it has a day of the week and big date display, as well as a week of the year display. Just as its name suggests. The week of the year display is arranged in a circle around the dial inside the chapter ring. A small hand indicates the calendar week, regardless of the number of weeks in the year. For the fascinating mechanism at the heart of the watch, the CFB A1004, made entirely in-house by Carl F. Bucherer, is not only able to show 52 calendar weeks but also a 53rd, which eliminates the need for turning back the week display in the relevant years. And because there are different ways of counting the weeks, the watch is available in two different versions.

is there a more stylish way …

… of displaying the calendar weeks?

The fact that the week calendar function can be integrated so easily into the caliber can be explained by the in-house manufacturing concept adopted by Carl F. Bucherer. Like its predecessors, the CFB A1001, CFB A1002 and CFB A1003, the CFB A1004 is a further development of the first movement manufactured in-house, the CFB A1000. This is clearly recognizable from the peripheral rotor, its patented dynamic shock-absorption (DSA) system and intelligent central dual adjusting system (CDAS). During the development of the CFB A1000, Carl F. Bucherer’s design engineers went to great lengths to ensure that other functional modules, such as the week of the year display, could be integrated readily into the movement. With this sophisticated function, which also takes the leap years into account, the Patravi Calendar is effectively a “timeless timekeeper”. Thanks to its classic elegance, this particular property is also optically under scored. The case, which is available in stainless steel or 18 k rose gold and is 42.6 mm in diameter, was specifically designed for individuals who prefer a circular case. The black or silver-colored dial is clearly arranged and has the appealing simplicity of a sports watch. The big date is positioned at 11 o’clock, an unmistakable sign for Carl F. Bucherer. Another striking feature is the small seconds, which takes the form of a rotating disc in the dial. This does not protrude into the space occupied by the week of the year display, thus guaranteeing optimum legibility. The harmonious picture is rounded off by a calfskin strap in black or brown, or a robust stainless steel bracelet. All in all, an elegant, sporty-looking watch that expertly handles the passage of time – both functionally and optically – and does all credit to Albert Einstein’s definition of the fourth dimension. InsIght by Carl F. buCherer Nº6 – 5


port po rtra rait it

A man of th the firs rstt ho hour.

6 – InsIght by Ca Carl rl F. bu buCh Cher erer er Nº 6


“i don’t wake up from a dream at four in the morning because i’ve just had a vision of a perfect, finished watch.” Kurt Allemann

He can’t remember his first day at work, but he still has vivid memories of the interview. He was just 21. It was a gray November day back in 1976 when he got on the bus to ride out to Bucherer’s head offices on the perimeter of Lucerne’s town center. Thick fog lay all around and the first thing that confronted him in Lucerne – despite the murk – was the unprepossessing sight of the freight yard. No. It was definitely not a case of love at first sight for Kurt Allemann and Lucerne. Today, he can no longer imagine life without Lucerne. He lives outside of town on the lake, where there is no need for him to look at the freight yard and, generally speaking, no fog. For 35 years now, he has been based at Bucherer Group headquarters, and no one can imagine the business without Kurt Allemann. Because Kurt Allemann has been part of countless developments that have taken place within the company and equally many upheavals in the watch industry. One of the most decisive periods in Bucherer’s history was when it repositioned its own watches. The House of Bucherer had been manufacturing and distributing timepieces in its own name since 1919, striving always to live up to the most exacting standards in the traditional craft of watchmaking and jewelry-making. As a fitting tribute to the company’s founder, Carl Friedrich Bucherer, and a means of lending more weight to its expertise as a manufacturer, the company has produced and distributed its watches under the Carl F. Bucherer brand name since 2001. “Insight by Carl F. Bucherer” caught up with Kurt Allemann to take a closer look at his work, his motivation and his professional experience.

Tell us: how did you graduate from being a watchmaker to a product development specialist? allemann: I joined Bucherer as a watchmaker in 1977 and worked in this capacity at all Bucherer’s stores in Switzerland. After six years, I took over as head of quality control. Incoming brand name watches were unfailingly subject to an exhausting quality check. Back in those days, even the wellknown brands had nothing like the same high standards we have now. In some cases, we even had to return watches to the manufacturer. After three years, I moved to Bucherer’s purchasing department. Later, I was put in charge of product development for the gold watch department at Bucherer, at a time when we were producing around 20,000 pieces a year. In 1997, I was first introduced to the Carl F. Bucherer project, which fascinated me right from the start. In 2001, I was involved in the repositioning of Carl F. Bucherer and since then I’ve been responsible for the brand’s product development. Hmm, now as I am thinking about it, I’ve had a fair number of jobs with Bucherer. What was so exciting about product development with Carl F. Bucherer? Getting the chance to help build an international platform for a watch brand at this level is something that only happens to you once in a lifetime, and I wasn’t prepared to miss it. For me, working with specialists on building up the brand image of Carl F. Bucherer was very instructive. It developed out of Bucherer but had to establish its own unique identity. Back then we thought we were doing everything right but had constant setbacks that showed us otherwise. It was a

challenging process that was plagued by doubt. But in retrospect, you have to say: it was a fantastic thing to do. Why was Bucherer watches turned into the Carl F. Bucherer brand? Carl Friedrich Bucherer founded his company in 1888, and launched his first ladies’ watch collection in 1919. Back then that was revolutionary, because he was one of the first to bet on the success of the wristwatch. However, the watches were only sold through Bucherer stores in Switzerland. I found this a great pity because I was convinced from the start that the products would be well received on markets worldwide. At that time, we’d already reached the same world-class level as other brands operating on global markets. Needless to say, I was over the moon in 2001 when Bucherer watches under the Carl F. Bucherer brand were repositioned and finally distributed globally. And I’ve lost none of that enthusiasm to this day. How creative is the work of a product developer? Creativity is certainly an important part of it but you can’t always live it out to the full. You develop a product for the good of the brand, not for yourself! At the start of a development project we give ourselves a lot of room for creativity, because that’s when you’re likely to have the slightly crazy ideas. Then you start defining it more clearly, so it complies with the brand image. Ultimately, a watch in this price segment needs a certain appeal, so you can’t take on too much risk. But it’s a fact that we only develop watches we’d buy ourselves. InsIght by Carl F. buCherer Nº6 – 7


portrait

“that was the movement which convinced me our watches were good enough to take on the world.” Kurt Allemann

Back then, we used to work with a lot of external suppliers. We played the role of retailer, and offered a much wider selection, ranging in price from 200 to 40,000 Swiss francs. From very basic watches to really high-end jewelry watches. We were flexible and much more focused on sales than on the brand structure. We had a certain customer or customer group in mind for every single timepiece, which meant we were able to meet any need or request. Our watches went on sale directly from product development. Four weeks later I had the first batch of sales figures and after six months I knew whether we’d landed a hit or were facing a flop. This allowed us to act quickly and modify the potential duds.

What are the qualities you need to develop watches? The most important, I think, are patience and persistence. As the word “development” suggests, it’s a long, drawn-out process. I don’t wake up from a dream at four in the morning because I’ve just had a vision of a perfect, finished watch. On the contrary: you have to question every single step. I have the sketches and designs lying next to me and constantly go back to them. A watch is only finished when – and if – it finally goes on sale. This process may well last several months. Is it possible to generalize about good watch design? No. That depends entirely on the brand and its image. It’s probably easier to say what bad design is. The customer tells you 8 – InsIght by Carl F. buCherer Nº6

indirectly because he doesn’t buy the watch. On the other hand, it’s difficult to say generally what bad design looks like. Customers are rarely able to say what it is they don’t like about a watch, but they can say that the watch as a whole doesn’t appeal to them. Movement or design: which comes first in the production of a watch? The first priority is always functionality: in other words, the movement. You have to understand what’s going on inside the watch before you approach the design. This makes you aware of the requirements and the limitations. A movement will need a specific height, and there’s no getting round that. What was it like in a watchmaking workshop 30 or 40 years ago? What was the atmosphere like?

But it’s true that Bucherer’s technical achievements weren’t recognized for many years, were they? Take the movement in the Archimedes Perpetual, for example. That was the movement which convinced me our watches were good enough to take on the world. We developed it in the late 80s and it was on a par with the movements being produced by the other well-known watch brands. Unfortunately, Bucherer wasn’t exporting at that time and there were no plans to do so in the near future, so we sold the movement and all the rights to another brand. I still regret that to this day. How did the repositioning of the Carl F. Bucherer brand in 2001 affect watch production? For the Carl F. Bucherer brand we only took the very best of what we had to offer in terms of quality, functionality and design. Since our repositioning, we’ve attached more importance to autonomy. The design and form of our product range are unique and very compelling.


What can you tell us about the shape and form of your watches before and after 2001? Before repositioning the brand, we were more likely to follow trends in the watch industry. We do less of that today. Of course, we’ll go along with something that’s generating a positive reaction from customers. But we’ve found our own distinctive style. Simply following a trend for the sake of it isn’t worthy of our brand. Is there a single characteristic common to all the watch families from Carl F. Bucherer? Yes, there is. We use different surfaces for all our lines, and combine highly polished and satin finishes. It’s very labor-intensive but it creates an unbelievably beautiful interplay of textures. As a result, our watch families are very multifaceted. And, of course, in all four families you feel the quality and value associated with Carl F. Bucherer. Can you tell us about one typical feature that can be found in the Carl F. Bucherer brand? The mechanism that displays the big date in the Patravi line was developed in-house by Carl F. Bucherer. Let’s be honest: from a certain age, many customers are happy if the date shown on their watch dial is big and

easy to read. Apart from that, though, we wanted to create a big date whose position and design would be instantly recognizable. The mechanism in this particular form is not to be found with any other brand. In the Alacria, on the other hand, we have the flowing contours on the sides found in all three sizes: the Alacria Mini, Alacria and Alacria Diva. The form is highly unusual and very difficult to copy. Of course, some people have tried, but the results are simply poor imitations. Is everything and anything allowed in product development provided that it doesn’t detract from the watch’s functionality? We always start with the specifications. We establish whether we’re going to create a ladies’ or a men’s watch, and then decide on the functions, the materials and the appearance. This is followed by the drawings and plans for the case, dial, hands and movement. Then we get down to the technology. Along the way we make modifications and occasionally have to go back a step. There are things we may have found pleasing at one point but which for some reason no longer fit in with the overall picture. What makes a Carl F. Bucherer different from other watches?

Attention to detail: and that, these days, is no longer a given. We go into so much detail and accept absolutely no compromises, certainly not for economic reasons! Where do you see the watch industry in 20 years? For brands in the top-price bracket, not much is likely to change. Even 20 years from now, people will still appreciate traditional, high-precision Swiss craftsmanship. How do you see the Carl F. Bucherer brand in 20 or 30 years? I know exactly what our watches will look like 20 or 30 years from now, even if I will no longer be with Carl F. Bucherer. The brand will continue to go its own way and even in the future will not bow to general trends or constraints. The mix of highquality traditional craftsmanship and jewelry-making will remain at the center of all we do. How have you left your mark on the Carl F. Bucherer brand in particular and the watch industry as a whole? I’ve left no mark on the watch industry. But I hope that my work has helped to put a hallmark on the Carl F. Bucherer brand. It was always my wish that the timepieces we make would embody and radiate the values of the family and the House of Bucherer. I believe we’ve achieved that. But whether it’s had a lasting effect is something we’ll only know a few years from now. What has impressed you most about the House of Bucherer in the past 35 years? A conscious awareness of tradition: it’s something we’ve cultivated for as long as anyone can remember. I’ve also been impressed by our cultural and social values, which you can really feel. Decency and respect for others are central at all levels of the hierarchy. These values also manifest themselves in and with the Carl F. Bucherer team, and are the virtues ultimately reflected in our products. It gives our work its beauty and value, and that makes me, personally, very proud.

InsIght by Carl F. buCherer Nº6 – 9


new products

“The Manero Collection”

Where consummate craftsmanship and

aesthetics meet.

Back in antiquity, the Greek Xenophon defined the concept of craftsmanship and the advantages of specialization within certain areas thus: “For example, one craftsman makes men’s shoes, another shoes for women. There are also places where one man can make a living from repairing shoes, one from cutting the leather, another by sewing the uppers, and yet another who has nothing to do with any of this but simply putting the separate bits together. But, of course, it’s logical that a man who works within a restricted area will do his job best.” a wealth of specialists for a single cause. This idea applies perfectly to the skills and craftsmanship involved in watchmaking. Numerous specialists, including watchmakers, engineers and designers, are responsible for the individual steps in the process of producing a watch. The watchmaker, for instance, is both specialist and artist: the skilled individual who adjusts the micromechanical components so that they fit together perfectly and then assembles them all by hand, i.e. “manually”. Manufacturing: in the literal sense of the terM. The word “manufacture” originally derives from the Latin manus, hand, and factura, make. Referring to watch production, the same word – manufacture – in French describes a company that designs, develops and produces its own movements from start to finish. Originally founded to do precisely this, a manufacture is often, to this day, the diametrical opposite of industrial mass production. The production process in a manufacture is divided into numerous steps between numerous specialists, just as the 10 – InsIght by Carl F. buCherer Nº6

Greek Xenophon correctly defined it. When we consider the detailed manual labor involved, the meaning and significance of the word becomes clear. iMpressive … The consummate, tradition-steeped craftsmanship found at Carl F. Bucherer goes all the way back to 1919, the year in which company founder Carl Friedrich Bucherer launched his first watch collection. It is demonstrated to impressive effect in the Manero line from Carl F. Bucherer. “Manero” itself literally means “that which is guided by hand”. And, as the models in the watch line confirm, the name says it all. Prime among them is the Manero ChronoPerpetual. Its outstanding features include a perpetual calendar with correction-free display of the date, day of the week, month and moon phase. The mechanism is able to recognize the lengths of the various months and knows precisely when the next leap year is due. In view of its mechanical intricacy, this technical complication remains a major challenge, but one to which the specialists at Carl F. Bucherer are equal. Clearly: be-

cause in 2012, the Lucerne-based manufacturer unveils what is already the third version of this model. … anD branD new. But the other models in the Manero family are no less convincing: the Manero Perpetual, for instance, has a correction-free mechanism that overcomes the vagaries of the Gregorian calendar and will only require correction in 2100. Or the Manero CentralChrono, which has an eye-catching new central chronograph display and was likewise unveiled by Carl F. Bucherer at this year’s Baselworld. Last, but not least, we should mention the Manero RetroGrade. Apart from the hour, minutes and seconds hands, the designers have cleverly arranged four additional displays and seven hands for maximum legibility. No matter which model in Carl F. Bucherer’s Manero family you look at more closely, they all combine sophisticated mechanics, aesthetic elegance and precision craftsmanship. It is good to know this combination still exists. And even better to know that it comes naturally at Carl F. Bucherer.

Making of: The illustrations of the Manero line were produced with the help of well-known Swiss artist Stephan Schmidlin in his studio.


InsIght by Carl F. buCherer Nº6 – 11


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mark ma rket et ne news ws

Prince Jewellery & Watch Company.

Hong Kong and the

pulse of the times.

14 – InsIght by Carl F. buCherer Nº6


It is a city of fascinating opposites: situated on the southern coast of the People’s Republic of China, Hong Kong is one of the world’s most exciting and dynamic destinations. The special administrative region, whose name translates as “Fragrant Harbor”, is one of the most densely populated areas on earth, embracing the city districts of Hong Kong Island, Kowloon, the New Territories and 262 offshore islands. With over seven million inhabitants, the Asian metropolis succeeds in creating a harmonious symbiosis between its traditional cultural heritage and the pulsating pace of modern

life. For it is here that western business and financial models meet head-on with traditional oriental culture, against a backdrop of towering skyscrapers, simple bamboo huts, breathtaking mountain peaks, an impressive harbor, panoramic beaches and picturesque little fishing villages. Experience Hong Kong once, particularly at night, and you will always return. It is an international metropolis that offers tourists and inhabitants everything in the tiniest possible space: arts and culture, bars and restaurants, shopping, nature, sights and a never-ending nightlife.

aDDress for watch lovers. Since 1984, in a city brimful with contrast, Jimmy Tang has worked tirelessly to establish the Prince Jewellery & Watch Company as one of the leading addresses for topquality watches and jewelry in Hong Kong. A total of 11 shops offering 60 internationally renowned watch brands together with a wide choice of elegant jewelry attract Hong Kong’s own resident watch and jewelry lovers together with tourists from every corner of the globe. It is the company’s international clientele combined with its many years of experience in the business of firstclass mechanical watches that makes Prince such a key partner.

InsIght by Carl F. buCherer Nº6 – 15


market news Many international brands not only appreciate the dealers as an invaluable channel for boosting international awareness of their products but also as a way of opening up the Chinese market.

© Maxim Blinkov / Shutterstock.com

Mr. Joseph Chu, executive Director of Prince Jewellery & Watch Company (left), and Mr. Jimmy Tang, Chairman and CeO of Prince Jewellery & Watch Company.

partnership with a long-terM perspective. The Prince Jewellery & Watch Company is not only one of Hong Kong’s most prominent watch and jewelry retailers but also, in the light of the growth achieved in recent years, one of the city’s best known and most successful. The secret is its belief in identifying smaller, particularly new, brands and then sparing no effort to establish them on the market. With this in mind, Prince took the Swiss watch manufacturing brand Carl F. Bucherer into its portfolio in 2001. A step that gave the company a very special significance as a commercial partner of Carl F. Bucherer. The enormous trust shown by Prince Jewellery & Watch Company in the brand’s potential has resulted in extremely pleasing growth in the Chinese market that has remained undiminished to this day. And the fact that Carl F. Bucherer, a company that seamlessly combines tradition with an unwavering quest for perfection, harmonizes ideally with Hong Kong is without question.

Insider tips for Hong Kong prince Jewellery & watch company • Shops B & C, Ground Floor, No. 58 • Russell Street, Causeway Bay • Tel. +852 2776 0688 • Shop 2, Ground Floor, Prestige Tower • 23–25 Nathan Road, Tsimshatsui, Kowloon • Tel. +852 2739 2333 the peak Hong Kong’s biggest sightseeing attraction. The spectacular view of the skyline, the world-famous harbor and the peninsula is overwhelming. The trip to the top on the legendary Peak Tram is unforgettable: climbing 373 meters, the road is so steep that the houses passing by outside appear to be standing at an angle of 45°.

16 – InsIght by Carl F. buCherer Nº6

ifc mall With its luxury stores and wide range of leisure-time activities, the shopping center is one of the big favorites with tourists on Hong Kong Island. At the same time it is home to Hong Kong’s most luxurious hotel, the Four Seasons Hotel and Four Seasons Place. • 8 Finance Street, Central • Tel. +852 2295 3308 • www.ifc.com.hk aberdeen harbour Contrasts galore: Alongside the luxury yachts and the state-of-theart buildings, fishermen eke out a living with their traditional craft. In the evening, a mirror-like surface on the sea creates a magical atmosphere. In Aberdeen Harbour is the biggest floating restaurant, the Jumbo, whose rather grand façade and dilapidated rear side deliciously underscore the city’s contrasts.

times square hong kong Located on pulsating Causeway Bay, Times Square is one of Hong Kong’s most popular tourist attractions. With its countless boutiques and restaurants, the upscale mall attracts around 150,000 visitors daily. • 1 Matheson Street, Causeway Bay • Tel. +852 2118 8900 • www.timessquare.com.hk

sky100 hong kong observation Deck On the 100th floor of Hong Kong’s highest building, the International Commerce Centre (ICC), Sky100 Hong Kong Observation Deck is the city’s highest indoor viewpoint and offers a mind-blowing 360° bird’s-eye view of world-famous Victoria Harbour. • www.sky100.com.hk

harbour city With over 700 shops, around 50 restaurants, bars and cafés, three star hotels and two cinemas, a major tourist attraction in Tsim Sha Tsui. Highlight: the integrated Gallery by the Harbour, a unique feature for a shopping mall in Hong Kong. • 3–27 Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon • Tel. +852 2118 8666 • www.harbourcity.com.hk

sha tin racecourse Opened in 1978, the racecourse has capacity for 83,000 spectators and guarantees nerve-tingling speed, action and drama. avenue of stars Situated in Victoria Harbour, the Avenue of Stars recounts the 100year history of Hong Kong’s film industry and pays tribute to its heroes of the silver screen, primarily Bruce Lee. Fantastic view of the skyline.


market news

Four generations

of excellence.

welcoMe to long islanD, new york. Long Island is located in the southeastern part of New York, just east of Manhattan. It stretches northeast into the Atlantic Ocean, and is 125 miles long but only 23 miles wide from its north shore to its south. The island covers an area of 1,377 square miles, and has a population of 7.5 million, making it the largest and most populous island in the US and the 17th most populous island in the world. Whether your preference is for a barefoot walk along the sandy white beaches, an adventurous excursion to a famous lighthouse, a relaxing afternoon tasting the finest vintages at a local vineyard or a tour of the stately rooms and gardens of the Gold Coast mansions, Long Island has it all. The Long Island economy is extremely prosperous. The Island boasts the largest industrial park in the US, the Hauppauge Industrial Park, where 1,300 companies employ more than 55,000 people. Long Island’s economy is made up of over 90,000 businesses and appears to have escaped the worst of the downturn that has affected many other areas in the US in recent years. The Island also has one of the lowest unemployment rates in the nation, with a vast number of employment opportunities in the fields of electronics, biotechnology, medical and health care systems, computer technology and gastronomy. But there are other reasons for its economic success: local residents are continuing to spend, home prices are rising at double-digit rates and Long Island’s office market is holding up extremely well. In addition to all this, Long Island’s proximity to New York City makes it one of the most affluent areas in the country. The Island is home to some of the country’s most luxurious mansions, with many wealthy

residents making the popular resorts on Long Island their playground. It exudes prosperity and has some of the highest real estate and property taxes in the country. One example of this is the fact that residents spend 50 million dollars annually on flowers and landscape gardening. Some of the world’s most famous celebrities have called this exclusive island home at one time or another. They include Oscar winner Natalie Portman, fashion icon Donna Karan, luxury fashion designer Michael Kors, comedian Jerry Seinfeld, pop idol Mariah Carey and the music legend Billy Joel, to name but a few. InsIght by Ca Carl rl F. bu buCh Cher erer er Nº 6 – 17


market news

lonDon Jewelers: how it all starteD. In the 1920s, Long Island, New York, was the center of urban growth. Thousands of immigrants of Irish, Italian and Jewish descent came here looking for jobs and a chance to make it big in the world of industry. This was the origin of the enormous cultural diversity that still prevails on Long Island. In 1923 Charles London followed his dreams in the hope of making a new life. He emigrated from Europe and settled on Long Island’s North Shore, where he began servicing clocks for clients in the area. Soon he built up a loyal following of the wealthiest families along Long Island’s Gold Coast, and in 1926 was able to open his own storefront in Glen Cove, selling watches, clocks and fine jewelry. It was one of the most significant milestones in the family’s history. the faMily coMes together. London’s daughter Fran and her husband Mayer Udell later took over the business, which they handed down to their son, Mark Udell, and his wife, Candy. Once the dynamic couple took over the family business, London Jewelers really flourished and evolved into an emblem of true luxury. Soon the store was attracting people from all over the world, offering the ultimate in luxurious jewelry and the finest timepieces from every corner of the globe. Candy and Mark’s children, Randi and Scott Udell, came on board to share in the

family’s great success, becoming the fourth generation to carry on the London Jewelers tradition. a perioD of MaJor growth. In 1980 London Jewelers began expanding its business, and opened another branch at the Wheatley Plaza in Greenvale, New York. Expansion didn’t stop there, and this was the second store of what was to become a total of five. Mark and Candy continued to build their empire and London Jewelers at The Americana in Manhasset opened shortly after the Wheatley store in 1984, becoming their flagship store. The Americana Manhasset, which is widely referred to as the Madison Avenue of Long Island, is in a prime location a mere twenty miles from Manhattan and fifty miles from the world-famous and exclusive Hamptons. This is where London’s hosts its extensive jewelry salon and watch salon, and has a mezzanine-level gift gallery, showcasing over 60 of the world’s premier luxury jewelry designers and fine timepieces. The vast selection of products by exceptional designers is perfectly suited to meet the discerning tastes of London’s loyal clients. London Jewelers at the Americana has a well-earned reputation as a dependable source of exquisite gifts, where world-class brands are truly at home. This reputation is additionally underpinned by some of the most trusted and valued partnerships in the industry today, with Carl F. Bucherer among them.

Charles london, the founder of london Jewelers, pictured in front of his first store in Glen Cove, long Island.

London’s family of loyal customers continues to grow as the company’s outstanding selection and unparalleled service consistently build relationships that last for generations. One of the reasons for this unusual degree of loyalty is the fact that customers know they can always rely on absolute discretion, although it’s not at all unusual to catch a glimpse of a celebrity at London Jewelers! The East Hampton and Southampton stores were another successful venture and another milestone for the London family. East Hampton opened its doors in 1996 and Southampton in 2002. These locations are mostly seaside resorts for affluent, seasonal globetrotters. The villages are busy all year

The london Jewelers boutique at the americana Manhasset Mall in long Island is modern and stylish and stocks a wide selection of timepieces by Carl F. bucherer.

18 – InsIght by Carl F. buCherer Nº6


round but particularly in the summer, when a large number of events are held there. The atmosphere is in keeping with the laid-back sophistication typical of the Hamptons. carl f. bucherer hits long islanD. The Carl F. Bucherer brand is now part of the range at all five branches of London Jewelers. It’s a strong partnership between two companies that share the same philosophy: that continuity and a deeply rooted family tradition combine to build the strongest foundation for a business. London Jewelers and Carl F. Bucherer are two companies that are still family owned and run today, which makes the relationship between the two that much more valuable and respected. “We are proud to feature Carl F. Bucherer’s first-class timepieces in our watch salon. It’s a great company to work with and the quality of its products speaks for itself,” says Amanda Hollyday, Marketing Director at London Jewelers. Amanda continues, “Carl F. Bucherer takes a traditional starting point and makes it their own with their unique designs and refinements.”

The family-run business is already in its fourth generation. From left: Scott udell, Jessica udell, Candy udell (proprietor), Zach udell, Mark udell (proprietor), Fran udell, Mayer udell, randi udell and allyn udell.

the future. The recent arrival of the fifth generation in the business heralds a dynamic and successful future for the unique London tradition. The entire family at London Jewelers never ceases to evolve and continues to work towards further improvement at every level.

Its members have plans for further growth and continue to strive for excellence by serving as pioneers in the jewelry and watch industry.

Insider tips for Long Island, New York the nassau county Museum of art Located in a Georgian Revival-style mansion over a century old, the museum boasts 145 acres of both wild and formal gardens, featuring largescale sculptures by such artists as Richard Serra, Alexander Calder and Tom Otterness. • One Museum Drive • Roslyn Harbor, NY 11576 • Tel. +1 516 484 9337 americana Manhasset Mall A high-end, open-air shopping center with over sixty specialty stores and restaurants featuring international fashion designer labels and luxury goods companies such as Christian Dior, Louis Vuitton, Donna Karan and Co. Special amenities and concierge services, including personal shoppers. • Northern Boulevard at Searingtown Road, • Manhasset, NY 11030 • Tel. +1 516 627 2277

oheka castle Located on the Gold Coast of Long Island and built by financier and philanthropist Otto Kahn between 1914 and 1919, the mansion is the second largest private home in the United States, comprising 127 rooms and over 109,000 square feet, as originally configured. Member of the Historic Hotels of America with 32 guestrooms and suites on the upper floors of the mansion, a popular wedding venue for socialites, celebrities, and dignitaries, and the backdrop to many photo shoots and Hollywood productions. Historic mansion tours of the estate and gardens possible. • 135 West Gate Drive • Huntington, NY 11743 • Tel. +1 631 659 1400

Montauk point lighthouse Montauk is the oldest lighthouse in New York State and one of the island’s most conspicuous features. Open all year round, it offers highly recommended museum and tower tours, and the 137-stair climb to the top of the tower is definitely worth the effort. This historic landmark has been part of Long Island’s land and seascape for over 200 years and still serves as an active aid to navigation. • 2000 Montauk Highway • Montauk, NY 11954 • Tel. +1 631 668 2544

• 131 Front Street • Greenport, NY 11944 • Tel. +1 631 723 0505 the hamptons Home to the rich and famous. Located on the South Fork of the easternmost end of Long Island, the area encompasses the towns of Southampton and East Hampton, with their many hamlets and villages, including Sag Harbor, Water Mill and Bridgehampton. Miles of stunning beaches, museums, fine dining and celebrity-watching.

north fork wine tours Enjoy the perfect day: From shopping and walking tours of the North Fork’s historic villages to winetasting at the area’s many famous vineyards and a meal at one of the North Fork’s fine restaurants. Group tours can be tailored to your personal needs.

InsIght by Carl F. buCherer Nº6 – 19


it Ðy?

When you Ðy SWISS Business, anything is possible. You’ll enjoy Swiss cuisine, great entertainment and then a fully Ðat bed. For further information and bookings contact your travel agent or visit swiss.com

Award winning: SWISS Business with fully Ðat bed


spon sp onso sors rshi hip p

SuitArt’s “Diamond Armor”

the most expensive suit in the world.

“Now and again, we get a client who’s looking for a really unusual suit,” explains Mathias Böhm, CEO at SuitArt. “Those are the kind of requests we like most and as a result we’ve developed a passion for things that are out of the ordinary.” Which explains why the exclusive range at SuitArt includes not only made-to-measure suits, shirts and overcoats but also runs to conjurers’ jackets with up to nine interconnected pockets or fireproof flying suits for various airlines. 22 – InsIght by Carl F. buCherer Nº6

class 1 Bulletproof 880 Black diamon diamonds onds gold threads nano-sealed cooling system co


CoMP Co MPet etIt ItIon Ion As a reader of Insight by Carl F. Bucherer, you can win a top-quality, made-to-measure suit from SuitArt (handcrafted in Switzerland and Italy) worth 7,500 Swiss francs. The lucky winner will be measured up for his suit at the SuitArt branch of his choice. Made of choice Super 150s wool, the suit will be exquisitely hand-tailored and cut precisely to your needs.

Try your luck at: www.carl-f-bucherer.com/ competition www.suitart.com/carl-f-bucherer or send us the subscription coupon from Insight by Carl F. Bucherer to go into the draw automatically. The closing date for entries is 28 February 2013. artist Corinne Sutter paints the lining of an exclusive tailor-made suit for Suitart.

The company’s passion for art and style is apparent from the moment you enter the SuitArt boutique in Zurich, just a stone’s throw from the municipal Art Gallery. There are a number of smaller galleries in the direct vicinity and art works decorate the walls of the shop between sharp, madeto-measure suits. Because SuitArt is a brand that arose out of the connection between traditional, made-to-measure suits and art. The company’s modern take on the tailoring of customized suits is teamed with Swiss quality at the highest level. Switzerland’s leading supplier of made-tomeasure suits is also rule-breaker number one in the fashion business. Twenty-eightyear-old, self-made millionaire Mathias Böhm: “We use customized individuality to counteract the trend towards mass production. Art is timeless, whereas fashion trends are short-lived,” he explains, as he makes a cup of coffee for a customer and himself. Despite having 40 employees, he

still likes to meet customers personally to find out precisely what they want. The store in Zurich is only one of twelve throughout Switzerland, where, thanks to the enormous range of designs and fabrics, the client can be sure of finding a suit that perfectly fits his needs. The way the subject of art is packaged with a made-to-measure suit is also pretty unusual. Customers can choose their favorite motifs from the artists’ works decorating the shop and SuitArt will then make a lining to match. bulletproof anD cooleD. The latest development at SuitArt is “diamond armor”, and the name is a virtual giveaway as to what it entails. Unique worldwide, the suit features 880 black diamonds elegantly and discreetly positioned in all the correct points, together with gold thread running through the fabric. The lining was hand-painted by a well-known artist. At the same time, SuitArt has equipped it with an entire range of cool

For more information about SuitArt: www.suitart.com

employees of Suitart aG and bucherer Montres S.a. are not eligible for entry in the competition. The draw will take place under notarial supervision. The prize cannot be paid in cash. The judges’ decision is final. One entry only per person.

gadgets no self-respecting secret agent should be without. The word “armor” should be taken literally: thanks to a special material made possible by modern developments in fabric manufacture, the suit is Class 1 bulletproof without sacrificing much in terms of comfort and aesthetics. Apart from this, it is nano-sealed, dirt-resistant and fitted with a cooling system. A piece of art priced at a cool 2.8 million dollars. It’s the sort of thing Q would come up with for James Bond. InsIght by Carl F. buCherer Nº6 – 23


Frie Fr iend nds s oF th thee Br Bran and d

CFB

From Worblaufen …

to

Hollywood. SEP 2012

What Wh at ac acto torr do does esn’ n’tt dr drea eam m of ma maki king ng hi hiss ca ca-reer in Hol reer Holly lywo wood od?? Of be bein ingg in invi vite ted d to all thee gl th glam amor orou ouss AA-li list st ev even ents ts,, ru rubb bbin ingg sh shou oullders de rs wi with th th thee wo worl rld’ d’ss gr grea eatt an and d go good od,, an and d appe ap pear arin ingg in all th thee bi bigg ma magaz gazin ines es?? On Onee Dani niel el Be Bern rnha hard rdtt thin th ing’ g’ss fo forr su sure re:: as a bo boy, Da Holly lywo wood od a se seco cond nd th thou ough ght. t. neve ne verr ga gave Hol Butt it Bu it’s ’s wh where ere he ea earn rnss hi hiss li livi ving ng to toda day, as Forr all th that at,, fi film lmss ha have fa fasc scin inat ated ed an ac acto tor. Fo him hi m fo forr as lo long ng as he ca can n re reme memb mber er.. “G “Goi oing ng to th thee mo movi vies es on Tues esda day aft after erno noon on wi with th my mo mom, m, si sitt ttin ingg th there ere in th thee da dark rkne ness ss an and d bein be ingg imm immer erse sed d in th this is fa fant ntas asyy wo worl rld: d: fo forr me,, th me that at was th thee hi high ghli ligh ghtt of th thee we week ek,” ,” he Butt reca re call lls, s, ev even en no now, w, all th thes esee yea years rs la late ter. Bu desp de spit itee th thee fa fasc scin inat atio ion n of th thee si silv lver er sc scre reen en,, he fi firs rstt em emba bark rked ed on a co comparat ativ ivel ely so soli lid d and an d pr prac acti tica call – “pro rope per” r” was thee wo word rd hi hiss 81,, pare pa rent ntss used fo forr it – ap appr prentice cesh ship. In 1981 at th thee ag agee of 16,, he star arte ted d tr trai aini ning as a techni te nica call dr draftsm sman.. Af Afterr completing this, 24 – InsIg InsIght ht by Ca Carl rl F. bu buCh Cher erer er Nº 6

Daniel Bernhard t

he st stud udie ied d ar arch chit itec ectu tura rall de desi sign gn.. At th thee same ti same time me,, Da Dani niel el di disc scov overe ered d th thee ne next xt gr grea eatt pass pa ssion ion in hi hiss li life: fe: ma mart rtia iall ar arts ts.. He an and d hi hiss mast ma ster er op open ened ed a ma mart rtia iall ar arts ts sc scho hool ol ne near ar hiss hom homet etow own n an and d pl plac acee of Worb Wo rbla lauf ufen,, hi birt bi rth h ne near ar th thee ci city ty of Be Bern rn.. In ma mart rtia iall ar arts ts,, he be beli liev eved ed he ha had d fo foun und d a di disc scip ipli line ne he woul wo uld d ch cher eris ish h all hi hiss li life fe.. a br brea eak k– thanks than ks to gi gian anni ni ve vers rsac ace. e. Butt th Bu that at was no nott to be be,, an and d hi hiss pl plan anss we were re scot sc otch ched ed by hi hiss go good od lo look oks. s. Fo Foll llow owin ingg hi hiss moved ved disc di scov over eryy by a mo mode dell ag agen ency cy, he mo to Pa Pari riss at th thee ag agee of 21 to sp spen end d ei eigh ghtt yea years rs stan st andi ding ng in fr fron ontt of th thee ca came mera rass fo forr bi bigg fash shion ion la labe bels ls li like ke Th Thie ierr rryy Mu Mugl gler er,, Di Dior or,, ncoo Fe Ferr rré. é. He th then en Mont Mo ntan anaa an and d Gi Gianf anfranc spent a year in New sp w Yo York rk,, wh where ere he wa wass al also so busy as a mo mode dell doin ing sh shoo oots for magazines like Vogue, ELLE and GQ. But at the back

of hi hiss mi mind nd was al always hi hiss en enth thus usia iasm sm fo forr thee ma th mart rtia iall ar arts ts.. that at ch chan anged ged ev ever eryt ythi hing ng Then Th en ca came me th thee da day th and an d ga gave hi him m an op oppo port rtun unit ityy to co comb mbin inee acti ac ting ng wi with th hi hiss ma mart rtia iall ar arts ts sk skil ills ls.. At th this is part pa rtic icul ular ar ti time me,, wel welll-kn know own n ph photo otogr grap aphe herr Bruc Br ucee We Webe berr was in sea searc rch h of a mo mode dell fo forr thee “L th “Loo ooki king ng fo forr Ki Kick cks” s” TV sp spot ot fo forr Gi Gian anni ni Vers Ve rsac ace. e. At th thee au audi diti tion ons, s, We Webe berr was so knoc kn ocke ked d ou outt by Be Bern rnha hard rdt’ t’ss au auth then enti ticc pr pres es-ence en ce an and d hi hiss ex extr trao aord rdin inar aryy ta tale lent nt in th thee mart ma rtia iall ar arts ts th that at he hir hired ed hi him m fo forr th thee su suppport po rtin ingg ro role le on th thee sp spot ot.. Th Thee le lead ad ro role le was acti tion on fi film lm bein be ingg pl play ayed ed by no none ne ot othe herr th than an ac fron fr ontt ma man n Je Jean an-C -Cla laud udee va van n Da Damm mme. e. “I “Itt was an ex expe peri rien ence ce th that at im impr press essed ed me a lo lott an and d forr th fo thee se seco cond nd ti time me in my li life fe it sh show owed ed me how ho w mu much ch I lov loved ed th thee mo movi vies es.. From om th that at poin po intt on on,, I’ I’d d ma made de my de deci cisi sion on:: I was go goin ingg to ge gett in into to it it,” ,” re rela late tess Da Dani niel el Be Bern rnha hard rdt. t.


three leaDing roles plus a wife. In 1993, following a tape produced to demonstrate his martial arts expertise, he arrived at the Los Angeles Dream Factory on the American west coast. Waiting for him was the producer of the cult martial arts movie “Bloodsport”. For the second, third and fourth parts of the movie he offered him the leading role, which in the first part had been played by Jean-Claude van Damme. Also present on the set for the fourth part, which was shot in Bulgaria, was Canadian actress Lisa Stothard, who played the leading female role in the movie. Not long afterwards, she was also playing the leading role in Daniel Bernhardt’s life. He and the ex-model have been an item since 1998 and married in 2003. Today, they live with their daughter Bella in Beverly Hills. as precise as a swiss watch. The prestigious 90210 zip code in his address sounds more glamorous than Daniel Bernhardt actually intended. After all, his favorite way of spending his free time and switching off from the rigors of professional life is with his family out in the wilds of California. But it comes as no surprise to learn that despite all the years he has spent in the USA he still maintains close ties with Switzerland. “Switzerland’s my home and always will be. I’m Swiss and can’t be anything else. My mom and brothers, who I visit on a regular basis, still live there. Without my Swiss roots, I wouldn’t be what I am today.” His ties with Switzerland are also strengthened by his role as a Friend of the Brand for the Lucerne watch manufacturers Carl F. Bucherer. He represents the company’s products with a compelling blend of Swiss “down-to-earthness” and his own natural – not to mention highly attractive – image. He explains the passion he also feels for his involvement in the brand as follows: “I adore the design, quality and traditional craftsmanship that go into the timepieces made by Carl F. Bucherer. It’s got to the point in the morning where I can’t decide which one to wear. That’s another reason why I’m so proud to be a Friend of the Brand for Carl F. Bucherer,” explains Daniel Bernhardt. Apart from this, he possesses one of the virtues that eminently qualify him to be an ambassador for a well-known watch brand and identify him as being Swiss through and through: “I’ve always been incredibly punctual. The idea of being late for anything is unthinkable, whether I’m in Switzerland or on the set in Hollywood.”

It was there on the set that he met Canadian actor Keanu Reeves, when they both appeared in the science fiction movie, “The Matrix Reloaded”. Reeves played lead to Bernhardt, who was cast in the role of badguy agent Johnson. Bad guy? If your name’s Daniel Bernhardt and you’re as passionate about things as he is, a role like that is no problem. We look forward to hearing more about his future projects.

To be continued … In our next issue you can read about the hobby Daniel Bernhardt shares with Keanu Reeves and what happened on set with Jennifer Lopez, Jason Statham and Nick Nolte during the making of “Parker”.

InsIght by Carl F. buCherer Nº6 – 25


impressions Baselworld 2012

The Bucherer family meT up on The carl f. Bucherer sTand ld Baselworld aT Ba

1

2012. 20

1 tanj tanjaa Fr Frui uith thof of,, Ge Gener neral al ma mana nage gerr Bu Buch cher erer er Zu Zuri rich ch,, wi with th Fr Fran ankk m. ri rind nder erkn knec echt ht,, ce ceo o of ri rinsp nspee eedd aG an andd a ca carl rl F. Bu Buch cher erer er Frien Fr iendd of th thee Br Bran and. d. in th the e ba back ckgr groun oundd ur urss von ar arxx (le (left ft), ), Ge Gener neral al mana ma nage gerr Bu Buch cher erer er Ba Base sel,l, an andd ma mart rtin in hu husi si,, Ge Gener neral al ma mana nage gerr Buch Bu cher erer er st. mo mori ritz tz.. 2 sasc sascha ha mo moer eri,i, ce ceo o Bu Buch cher erer er mo montr ntres es s. s.a. a.,, wi with th Je Jerr rryy ts tsan ang, g, hono ho nora rary ry ch chai airm rman an an andd ce ceo o of Bu Buch cher erer er ho hong ng ko kong ng lt ltd. d. 3 mukht mukhtar ar mo moham hammed med (r (righ ight) t),, re regi gion onal al ma mark rket et dir direc ecto torr of Buch Bu cher erer er ho hong ng ko kong ng ltd. ltd.,, eng engag ages es in a sa sale less pi pitc tchh wi with th dea deale lers rs.. 4 Fred Fredyy Ba Bart rthh (le (left ft), ), ca carl rl F. Bu Buch cher erer er Fr Frien iendd of th thee Br Bran and, d, dee deepp in conv co nver ersa sati tion on wi with th dr dr.. al albr brec echt ht ha haak ake, e, ex exec ecuti utive ve Vi Vice ce pr presid esiden entt tech te chno nolo logie giess of ca carl rl F. Bu Buch cher erer er.. 5 Fran Franzz re reic ichho hholf lf,, Ge Gener neral al ma mana nage gerr Bu Buch cher erer er lu lugan gano, o, wi with th step st epha hann sc schm hmid idlin lin,, wo wood od sc scul ulpt ptor or an andd ca carl rl F. Bu Buch cher erer er Fr Frien iendd of th thee Br Bran and. d.

2

6 culin culinar aryy de dele lect ctat ations ions on th thee st stan and, d, pr prep epar ared ed by st star ar ch chef ef sa sand ndro ro stei st eing ngru rube ber. r. 7 Gener General al ma mana nage gers rs ge gett ttin ingg to toge geth ther er:: Jör Jörgg st stra raub ub (le (left ft), ), Bu Buch cher erer er inte in terl rlak aken en,, an andd Jo Jose seff wi willin lliner er,, Bu Buch cher erer er lu luce cern rne. e. 8 sasc sascha ha mo moer erii ga gave ve mu mura ratt ya yaki kinn an andd Be Bern rntt ha haas as,, bo both th fo form rmer er socc so ccer er in inte tern rnat ation ional als, s, a pe pers rson onal al pr prese esenta ntati tion on of th thee ne new w mod models els.. 9 high high-r -ran anki king ng vi visi sito torr fr from om ho hollllyw ywood: ood: ar arno nold ld sc schw hwar arzene zenegge ggerr is thee pr th prou oudd ow owner ner of a pa patr trav avii tr trav avel elte tec. c. 10 mura muratt ya yaki kin, n, ca carl rl F. Bu Buch cher erer er Fr Frien iendd of th thee Br Bran and, d, wi with th Jör Jörgg stra st raub ub an andd sa sasc scha ha mo moer eri.i. 11 35 ye year arss old old,, 17 Ga Gaul ultm tmill illau au poin points ts an andd st star ar ch chef ef in th thee ep epoc ocaa rest re stau aura rant nt at th thee fi five ve-s -sta tarr wa wald ldha haus us Fl Flims ims mo moun unta tain in re reso sort rt & spaa in Fl sp Flims ims,, sw swit itzer zerla land: nd: sa sand ndro ro st stei eing ngru rube ber, r, ca carl rl F. Bu Buch cher erer er Frien Fr iendd of th thee Br Bran and. d. 12 keep keepin ingg it in th thee fa fami mily ly:: Br Bruno uno Be Bena nagl glio io (le (left ft)) ta talk lkss sh shop op wi with th his sonn di so diego ego,, goa goalk lkeep eeper er fo forr th thee sw swis isss na nati tion onal al so socc ccer er te team am.. 13 clau claude de Ju Jutz tzii (le (left ft), ), Ge Gener neral al ma mana nage gerr Bu Buch cher erer er la laus usan anne ne,, an andd seba se bast stia iann ma mart rten en,, re regi gion onal al ma mark rket et dir direc ecto torr wi with th ca carl rl F. Bu Buch cher erer er..

26 – InsIght by Ca Carl rl F. bu buCh Cher erer er Nº 6

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InsIght by Carl F. buCherer Nº66 – 27

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catchinG up with

St. Moritz

Cosmopolitan chic and

unspoilt Nature. A visit to St. Moritz in Switzerland is something that has to be earned. In the truest sense of the word. First of all, if you go in high season – in winter – and want to enjoy yourself, you’ll need enough ready cash. And second, getting up to St. Moritz at 1,856 meters above sea level means you’ll have to surmount a few mountain passes and steep, winding roads. Or perhaps have the pleasure of doing so. Because en route to St. Moritz and in the village itself, you cannot fail to be impressed by the fabulous natural surroundings, the breathtaking panoramas that embrace the Alps and the lake and, of course, the unique light. If figures are to be believed, you can look forward to 322 days of sunshine a year. Small wonder, then, that the place teems with tourists, who descend on the Engadine mainly for the winter sport. With around 5,000 permanent inhabitants, the picturesque village expands to become the eighth-largest town in Switzerland during the winter months. breathtaking alpine backDrop … The start of winter tourism dates back to 1864. For it was then that the first English 28 – InsIght by Carl F. buCherer Nº6

visitors arrived for a winter vacation, at the invitation of St. Moritz hotel pioneer Johannes Badrutt. Legend has it that he made a bet with a number of English guests staying at his “Kulm” hotel in summer. He claimed that the sun was so strong in winter, too, that you could walk around in shirtsleeves. And if it wasn’t, he would pay for his guests’ return trip to England. Needless to say, Badrutt won his bet and the English returned. Because even back then, Johannes Badrutt knew how to combine Alpine winter tourism with the expectations of a cosmopolitan clientele. Since then, prominent visitors such as Henry Ford, Gunter Sachs, Marc Rich, the Shah of Persia, the entrepreneurial Agnelli family, IKEA founder Ingvar Kamprad and the two Greek ship-owning families of Niarchos and Onassis have been among the regular guests. Attracted by the undisguised luxury of St. Moritz and its total discretion. … in a chaMpagne cliMate. For in St. Moritz luxury plays a role that is at least as important as the breathtaking spectacle of unspoilt Nature. St. Moritz is a gathering ground for the rich and famous.

And every year, the village hosts some highly prestigious events, especially the St. Moritz Polo World Cup on Snow and the White Turf St. Moritz, an international horse racing meet, likewise held on snow. The most exclusive address for a place of your own – from a certain price category upwards – is the Via Suvretta, a road that snakes up the mountain and, according to various sources, is number seven in a list of the world’s richest streets. For shopping you head to the Via Serlas and the Via Maistra, where the boutiques of Chanel, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Roberto Cavalli or Prada stand cheek by jowl. At the heart of this unique combination, another jewel glitters in its newfound glory: the luxurious store of traditional Swiss watch and jewelry retailers Bucherer is resplendent in the Via Maistra, at the heart of the village. The St. Moritz store was the first one in the Bucherer Group to be redesigned and fitted to comply with the new store concept, and opened in November 2011. We caught up with Martin Husi, General Manager of the St. Moritz store, and asked him to tell us more about the new shop interior concept and the significance of a Bucherer store for St. Moritz.


Martin Husi, have you managed to settle into the new store yet? husi: It’s almost like starting in a new job. Everything about it is new, from the store room to the display areas. I had a few problems finding my way around initially, but in the meantime I’ve got used to it. Why was the store in St. Moritz of all places chosen as the first to integrate the new shop concept? The St. Moritz branch was opened in 1931, making it one of the first of a total of 15 stores in Switzerland, which is why it was more in need of a refurbishment than many of the others. Besides, Mr. Bucherer comes to St. Moritz very often for family reasons and wanted to use it to make a point. The store is a statement about St. Moritz as a location. To what extent does the new store concept differ from the old one? The entire store was gutted to the outer walls and totally redesigned. Now it extends over three open-plan floors, tiered like a staircase so that one always has a full view of the interior. The uppermost section is home to haute horlogerie – fine watchmaking, the middle is devoted exclusively to jewelry and the lowest area is a mix of watches and jewelry.

Thanks to the new store concept we also have our “own” radio station: Radio Bucherer. The station plays in the background in all Bucherer stores with the new design. I’m always pleased when I hear one of my favorite pieces of classical music being played. What do you particularly like about the new store concept? I’m very taken by our entire new image. We’ve dusted out the cobwebs and it’s now much fresher and more spacious and simply makes you feel good. I’m particularly fond of the combination of materials and colors. And we haven’t had a single customer, either local or a tourist, who’s found it too “chic”. How have you positioned Carl F. Bucherer in the new store concept? Carl F. Bucherer plays a very prominent role. When you look at the outside display window, the brand simply cannot be missed. As you enter the stores, the first thing that meets you on the right-hand side is another display case dedicated to the Lucerne-based watch brand. After all, people should see your most beautiful items the moment they set foot in the door. Or, to put it another way: you never get a second chance to make a first impression.

“the fine balance between glamor in my everyday life and simplicity in my private sphere keeps me happy and content.” Martin Husi

What does it mean for St. Moritz as a tourist destination that Bucherer now has a more modern store concept at its premises in the Via Maistra? It’s a window to a world of luxury. Even if you don’t want to go over the top, you have to stay up with the frontrunners in St. Moritz. Where do your customers tend to come from? Seventy percent of our clientele are tourists, and very international. In summer we have lots of groups, with plenty of Asians. In winter they are mainly Swiss, English, Russians and visitors from the Benelux states. The Italians are a special case: they still come to St. Moritz but they no longer buy quite so much. Among other things, this is due to the strength of the Swiss franc. Has the new store concept attracted any new customers? I don’t think so. But it is possible that more people come in out of curiosity and notice that the new store has given Bucherer a new, fresher image. And for us that’s an opportunity. Does Bucherer still have any real competition in St. Moritz? And how! There’s a stretch of luxury boutiques about 500 to 600 meters long next to the Palace Hotel. It’s packed with individual brands. But the fact we’re a multibrand company gives us a competitive edge over them. Another big advantage for us is our in-house watch repair service and jewelry workshop. I estimate that around 90 percent of the dedicated brand boutiques here in town come to us when they need watch or jewelry repairs. Particularly when they need fast service for day visitors. The Glacier Express doesn’t hang around waiting for passengers. Apart from that, visitors appreciate our long-serving staff and the personal treatment they can expect when they pop in to see us. No one else in our industry can offer that kind of service in St. Moritz. No doubt, you get lots of prominent customers from all over the world. Is there any difference between the sales pitch you deliver to a VIP and the one you give to ordinary mortals like you and me? That raises a question: what exactly do we mean by “prominent”? When is someone prominent? It’s all very relative. Let’s take Gianni Agnelli, for instance. Now for me, he was prominent because he worked hard InsIght by Carl F. buCherer Nº6 – 29


catchinG up with

and achieved a lot in his lifetime. But he would drive up modestly to our store in a little Fiat Panda. People whose only interest is being part of the jet set are not necessarily the kind of customers I want to see in the store. Sometimes we don’t immediately recognize celebrities, particularly if they come in wearing their skiing gear. I only recognized Liz Hurley, for example, when one of my staff tipped me off. Besides, you don’t always have to make a song and dance if some famous person walks in.

Do you train your people specially in dealing with prominent customers? If so, how? No, we don’t do that. Our staff receive completely standard training and treat all our customers the same. Actually, well-known customers really appreciate the fact that we don’t behave differently towards them and treat them like normal customers. That’s one of the reasons why we have never closed the store for a prominent visitor.

Do you have any amusing anecdotes that you could tell us about a prominent visitor to your store? I can’t really think of a specific story about someone prominent on the spur of the moment. But I’ve got a funny one for you. The Palace Hotel called to inform that some Englishmen were on their way to buy some jewelry and watches from us. We could hardly believe our eyes when they got out of the Palace’s Rolls-Royce. They’d come directly from the spa and were wearing the bathrobes and slippers supplied by the hotel. To top it all, it was winter and 20 degrees below zero.

Insider tips for St. Moritz ristorante la stalla Italian and international cuisine in a unique, rustic setting. • Plazza del Mulin 2 • Tel. +41 81 837 58 59 • www.lastalla-stmoritz.ch piano bar Oldest bar in St. Moritz, legendary reputation, with lots of candlelight and live piano music. • Hotel Schweizerhof • Via dal Bagn 54 • Tel.+41 81 837 07 07 • www.schweizerhofstmoritz.ch

30 – InsIght by Carl F. buCherer Nº6

hotel languard Family-owned, home from home: an Engadine style hotel with breathtaking views of the lake and mountains. • Via Veglia 14 • Tel. +41 81 833 31 37 • www.languard-stmoritz.ch

Joy An internationally renowned fashion concept store with new and exclusive, avant-garde clothing from leading fashion centers. • Via Maistra 23 • Tel. +41 81 834 92 92 • www.joystmoritz.com

faoro fashion boutique A wide range of functional casual clothing, shoes and accessories. • Plazza dal Mulin 8 • Tel. +41 81 833 36 45 • www.faoro.ch

glattfelder A small family-owned company specializing in Iranian caviar and high-quality coffee and tea. • Via Maistra 3 • Tel. +41 81 837 39 39 • www.glattfelder.ch

Muottas Muragl At 2,456 meters above sea level, one of the most beautiful vantage points in the Upper Engadine, with unmatched views over the lakes. paradiso-hütte Savor the mountain panorama at 2,181 meters above sea level from the comfort of your lounger or around the fire. • Tel. +41 81 833 40 02 • www.el-paradiso.ch alphütte clavadatsch A cowshed until 1956, it is now a rustic alpine hut amidst the villas on the Suvretta slopes. • www.schweizerhofstmoritz.ch


Today, St. Moritz represents incredible luxury on the one hand and, on the other, nature at its purest. Where do you feel most comfortable? I have two different personalities. When I put on my suit and tie in the morning I’m a businessman who sells luxury items and gives people the feeling of wealth. In my spare time, I prefer to keep it simple. I enjoy fishing and hiking, or going for rides on my motorbike. And there’s nothing I love more than sitting in our alpine hut on Marguns, looking down on Celerina at 2,276 meters above sea level, and allowing my gaze to drift over the mountains. This fine balance between glamor in my everyday life and simplicity in my private sphere keeps me happy and content.

Vent Ve ntur uraa / Sh Shut utte terst rstoc ock. k.co com m

When you think back to the early days of Bucherer’s store in St. Moritz and your starting your job as General Manager, what would you say has changed in that time? I’ve been here in St. Moritz for over 20 years. When I first came, I never really noticed that Bucherer was so deeply involved in jewelry: for me it was only the watches. Apart from that, I always thought of St. Moritz as a place for older people. But in the past ten years, we’ve really got out of a rut and caught up with the times. Everything’s much fresher, zappier and more youthful than it used to be. St. Moritz has really shaken off its dusty image. And the Bucherer store has moved with it. I only really notice that I’ve been here so long and that the years are passing when some of our more elderly clients suddenly stop coming in. You start wondering whether they’re still alive. You only know for certain when the Christmas cards you’ve sent are returned.

InsIght by Carl F. buCherer Nº6 – 31


Viewpoint

The Nature of The Beast –

Watch Companies. By Ke Keit ith h W. St Stra rand ndbe berg rg Inte In tern rnat atio iona nall Ed Edit itor or Watc Wa tchh Jo Jour urna nal/ l/Eu Euro ropa pa St Star ar

As a jou journ rnal alist ist wi with th mor moree th than an 15 yea years rs of expe ex peri rien ence ce co cove veri ring ng th thee wa watc tch h in indu dust stry ry,, I’ I’ve ve seen see n tr tren ends, ds, wa watc tche hess an and d wh whol olee co comp mpani anies es come co me an and d go go.. What Wh at’s ’s ho hott on onee yea yearr is dé dépa pass sséé th thee ne next xt.. And An d he hera rald lded ed fr fres esh, h, ne new w de desi sign gnss ar aree of ofte ten n ones on es th that at ap appe pear ared ed de deca cade dess or ev even en ce cennturi tu ries es ag ago. o. Sure Su re,, th thee ne new w st stuff uff is co cool ol an and d ma makes kes fo forr a good go od st stor ory, y, bu butt mo most st in inte tere rest stin ingg fo forr me aree th ar thee qu qual alit ityy co comp mpani anies es th that at ar aree he here re fo forr thee lo th long ng ha haul ul.. Ma Maki king ng a sp spla lash sh wi with th a co cool ol new ne w wa watc tch h ca catc tche hess pe peop ople le’s ’s at atte tent ntion ion,, bu butt esta es tabl blis ishi hing ng a co comp mpan anyy th that at is he here re to toda dayy an and d will wi ll st stil illl be he here re tw twen enty ty yea years rs in th thee fu futu ture re is a tr true ue ch chall allen enge. ge. I’ve I’ ve no noti tice ced d th that at th there ere te tend nd to be tw twoo ki kind ndss of co comp mpani anies es in th thee wa watc tch h in indu dust stry ry – th thee ones on es th that at sp spen end d bi bigg mo mone neyy on ma mark rket etin ing, g, tout to utin ingg th them emse selv lves es fr from om th thee hi highe ghest st mo moun un-tain ta into top p ab abou outt th thei eirr he heri rita tage ge,, th thei eirr am amba basssador sad orss an and d th thei eirr la late test st sp spla lash shyy ev even ent, t, an and d bran br ands ds wi with th tr true ue de dedi dica cati tion on to th thee ar artt of time ti meke keep epin ing, g, en ende deavo avori ring ng to ma make ke ev ever er moree pr mor prec ecis ise, e, mor moree co comf mfor orta tabl ble, e, mor moree ca cappable ab le wr wrist istwa watc tche hes. s.

32 – InsIght by Carl F. buCherer Nº6

I th thin inkk we ne need ed bo both th ki kind ndss of co comp mpani anies es in this th is bu busi sine ness, ss, an and d I ap appr prec ecia iate te bo both th ap ap-proa pr oach ches es.. I mu must st ad admi mit, t, ho howe weve ver, r, th that at I am moree in mor inte tere rest sted ed in th thee on ones es wh whoo ar aree se seri riou ouss abou ab outt wa watc tchm hmak akin ingg an and d no nott ju just st ou outt to gene ge nera rate te so some me ma mark rket etin ingg noi noise se.. I’ve I’ ve kn know own n th thee Ca Carl rl F. Bu Buch cherer erer br bran and d fr from om thee ve th very ry be begi ginn nnin ingg an and d ha have ve fol follo lowe wed d it itss grow gr owth th in into to th thee le lead adin ingg co comp mpan anyy it is to toda day. y. I to tour ured ed it itss ma manu nufac factu ture re in Sa Sain inte te-C -Cro roix ix when wh en it was ju just st an em empt ptyy spa space ce – no now w it it’s ’s a stat st ate-o e-off-th thee-ar artt re resea searc rch h an and d de deve velop lopme ment nt and an d ma manu nufac factu turi ring ng fac facili ility ty..

The gr The grow owth th of th thee br bran and d ha hass bee been n st step ep by step st ep,, or orga gani nic, c, an and d wi with thou outt th thee sm smok okee an and d mirr mi rror orss an and d gl glit itzz an and d gl glam amou ourr of ot othe herr bran br ands ds.. Than Th ankk go good odne ness ss fo forr co comp mpani anies es li like ke Ca Carl rl F. Buch Bu cherer erer,, br bran ands ds do doin ingg th thin ings gs th thee ri righ ghtt wa wayy forr th fo thee ri righ ghtt re reas ason ons, s, in th this is bu busi sine ness ss fo forr th thee long lo ng ru run. n. Ca Carl rl F. Bu Buch cherer erer,, wi with th it itss st stor orie iess of su subs bsta tanc nce, e, ma makes kes my job as a jou journ rnal alist ist that th at mu much ch ea easi sier er..

“interesting for me are the quality companies that are here for the long haul.”


New Products

In

perfect shape. In the Alacria Mini TwoTone, the Alacria ladies’ watch line from the House of Carl F. Bucherer has gained a top-quality timepiece with a number of attractive features. The exquisitely finished wristwatch, with its stylishly distinctive contrasting colors in silver and 18 k rose gold, is more than a mere timepiece. The dual-color combination transforms it into a discreetly elegant piece of jewelry that will never go out of fashion. It means that the Alacria Mini TwoTone is not only the perfect choice for any occasion but also looks fabulous combined with your favorite silver or gold jewelry. With its strikingly sweeping lines, the Alacria Mini TwoTone remains faithful to the spirit of the charismatic Alacria family.

Like all the other members of the line, the watch has a rectangular case with convex sides and is a perfectly balanced expression of both divine and female beauty. And, thanks to the two-color combination, it adds a further dimension: the captivating play of colors from the contrasting silver, stainless steel and 18 k rose gold that runs across the dial, the case and bracelet. After all, beauty is a many-faceted thing. Dual colors. Precision mechanics. In terms of design the timepiece, which harmoniously combines angular shapes with optically elongated lines and organically inspired contours, is decidedly classical: the

rose gold indices and Roman numerals at 6 and 12 o’clock are bordered with three silver stripes. The two-colored and striped pattern themes are skillfully resumed in both the bracelet and the case. The latter is available either with 40 high-quality diamonds or without diamonds and the relatively modest dimensions of 21 × 30 mm give it a stylish touch of understatement. Thanks to its high-precision ETA 280.002 quartz movement, the Alacria Mini TwoTone is not only chic but also an extremely dependable companion. And as we all know, it’s good for a woman to have something she can always count on.

iNSight BY CA CARL RL F. BU BUCH CHER ERER ER Nº 6 – 33


For a dazzling appearance.

The Alacria is a masterful synthesis of traditional watchmaking skills and the art of jewelry-making at its very best. Its sensually elegant shape and sparkling diamonds transform every Alacria into a fascinating piece of jewelry dedicated to making a glittering display of the passage of time. Created in the ďŹ rm belief that true beauty is a lasting, even timeless, value. www.carl-f-bucherer.com


Insight Magazin Carl F. Bucherer N°6 English