Pre-Pandemic Sweets, Post Pandemic Thinking
By Jen Abell
We’ve had a lot of time to think over
global favourites. Like many of us of late;
the past year, haven’t we? Perhaps
watching climate change become
too much time. Although the stop/ start nature of existing as a
climate crisis is making him reflect on his desires and decisions. His
business during a pandemic was
hunger for finding the best custard
distressing at best and ruinous
dishes of the world has evolved
at worst for some; it has given
into an investigation. Has custard,
much needed pause. I eagerly
the timeless classic, in fact, had
watch as business owners
its time? Traditionally, custard is
reveal plans for the future. What has this enforced period taking literal and metaphorical stock meant for entrepreneurs that influence our everyday? For several, it means a move to sustainable commerce. Michelin star restaurant, Eleven Madison Park in New York will re-open as a 100% plant-based eatery. This heartening open-ness to change in the face of climate change data takes bravery and flexibility. Hong Kong grocery store Slowood last month announced it will ‘take a step forward’
a dairy cocktail. Most recipes use milk, cream or eggs; sometimes all three. We now know that it takes 628 litres of water to produce just one litre of cow’s milk. Six hundred and twenty-eight to one. It’s tough to justify that choice in the face of global water shortages. Especially difficult when you learn oat milk requires 48 litres of water for a litre of produce. Can Alan’s lifelong favourites and personal dream survive our necessary, and increasingly popular move to dairy free diets? Enter Thibault and his culinary cleverness.
and cease all fish sales after learning of the environmental
Each month from May 2021 until December 2021, Thibault
damage the fishing industry causes in Netflix documentary
and Alan have scheduled the release of a famous custard
Seaspiracy. Their statement read “We believe every tiny
dish from around the world…with a plant-based twist.
step counts and hope to join our community to make the
Thibault’s small but perfectly formed Splott kitchen, usually
world a better place.”
dedicated to his technicolour vegan macarons (strawberry
Being environmentally friendly needn’t always mean ‘ceasing’, though. What if you could have your cake and eat
and basil flavour anyone?!) has become an experimental studio pioneering in….custard.
it too? Cardiff is lucky to have its own crew hoping to help
The day I’m writing this sees the launch of Cardiff’s first
you do just that! Many of you have met Alan Golding without
ever plant-based Manchester Tart and with it, the premiere
knowing it. He’s the friendly face with the irresistible laugh
of this project. This Northern wonder features vanilla
serving your Riverside Sourdough at Cardiff’s weekend
custard in its jelly form poured over cherry jam. This magic
markets. You’ll know Thibault, too. He’s 2020 Bake Off:
combination is layered over golden biscuit pastry crust and
The Professionals winner and chef extraordinaire behind
crowned with desiccated coconut. The clown’s nose glacé
Patisserie Verte. When these gregarious gourmets got
cherry on the coconut snowscape is oh so satisfying. Today,
chatting at Roath’s Farmer’s Market, a lifelong dream came
this experimental twist on a UK classic sold out swiftly in
one step closer to reality.
Roath’s Farmer’s Market. Alan’s clearly not the only person
Alan is a fully paid-up member of the church of custard.
interested in Thibault’s dairy free custard.
By the time I met him six years ago, he’d been dreaming
Thibault’s company, Patisserie Verte, is a small start-up (not
of penning a celebration of custard dishes of the world
for long!) interested in high quality plant-based produce,
for half a decade. He’d named the book and chosen his
sustainability and buying local. Amongst Thibault’s catering
28 CARDIFF TIMES