THE MIGHT OF GLIN THE BURREN • WOODSTOCK • MILAN • SAN FRANCISCO
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CONTENTS SEPTEMBER 2018
4 WELCOME Aer Lingus news and announcements 8 ARRIVALS We welcome newbies and homecomers at Dublin’s T2
11 CHECK IN Where’s good to eat, sleep, drink and do arts and culture 28 SHELF LIFE Bridget Hourican peruses the new literary oﬀerings 30 ART & SOUL Not just for children ... Eithne Shortall’s cheery round-up of Irish illustrated books 32 MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK The Unforgotten actor Bronagh Waugh
Bay City Rolling
34 5 GOOD REASONS Eoin Higgins raises a stein to Munich 36 AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO TORONTO Mairéad Walsh’s top ﬁve in the 6ix
38 MAN FOR ALL SEASONS Jessie Collins meets actor Dominic West at Glin Castle 44 MASTERS OF ILLUSION Irish theatre aces reveal their tricks of the trade to Gemma Tipton 52 MAGNETIC DESOLATION Thomas Breathnach ﬁnds the stark landscape of the Burren ripe with possibilities 62 SOMETHING IN THE WIND Novelist Joseph O’Connor makes like a rolling stone in Woodstock, NY 78 ETERNAL STYLE Marie Kelly enjoys retail therapy in Milan 88 GOLD STANDARD Kimberley Hasselbrink’s San Francisco stars
Milan – too sexy?
44 Theatre Darlings
99 5 BEST FIT TRIPS Aoife Carrigy dons sweatbands and feels the burn
106 48 HOURS IN ROME Ancient monuments, gin bars, art. What’s not to love? asks Elizabeth Heath 123 AER LINGUS INFLIGHT On-board info, entertainment and inﬂight retail 152 TRIP OF A LIFETIME Author and broadcaster Professor Michael Scott falls in love with Athens
110 BUSINESS & LIFE Gerry O’Shea extols the many virtues of Boston, Massachusetts 116 A DAY IN THE LIFE How Captain Rob Hempstead rules the waves 118 MIDDLE GROUND The Hilton Berlin reviewed, plus new hotels in Seattle, Edinburgh and Paris
120 SIX THINGS I’VE LEARNT Words of wisdom from Blas na hÉireann’s Artie Cliﬀord
Alaïa Armani Balenciaga Bottega Veneta Burberry Canada Goose Céline Chanel Charlotte Tilbury Chloé Christian Louboutin Dolce & Gabbana Erdem Fendi Givenchy Gucci Hermès Huda Beauty Jimmy Choo Louis Vuitton M•A•C Manolo Blahnik Moncler NARS Prada Saint Laurent Paris Tiﬀany & Co Tom Ford Valentino Victoria Beckham Zegna Ireland’s Most Beautiful Store, The World’s Best Brands, Exceptional Service, A Luxury Destination For Women, Men, Children’s, Beauty, Home And Gifting.
DUBLIN CORK LIMERICK GALWAY
CARA Magazine September 2018
WELCOME ABOARD Summer may be on the wane but there are bargain breaks to be had this September – and a new sporting season to look forward to. elcome on board and thank you for choosing to fly with Aer Lingus today. After a memorable long, hot summer, autumn is here and it’s back to school and back to work. A great way to ditch “the grindstone blues” is to book your next getaway and, with this in mind, Aer Lingus has some great offers across its European and transatlantic routes throughout the month of September. We are pleased to let you know that we have once again been rated four-stars by Skytrax in its World Airline Star Ratings. Aer Lingus now ranks eighth overall in Europe and fifth in the Best Airline Staff in Europe awards and we remain the only Irish airline with a prestigious four-star Skytrax rating. Aer Lingus is also proud to announce that it has renewed its sponsorship as the Official Airline of Irish Rugby. Having signed the original sponsorship back in 2015, Aer Lingus will continue to bring Home Advantage wherever we play in support of Joe Schmidt’s team. The unwavering passion of Irish rugby fans is world-renowned and Aer Lingus is central
to helping fans bring that unique sense of camaraderie to a game whether it is played in the Aviva Stadium or away. Aer Lingus flew the team to Chicago for Ireland’s first ever win against the All Blacks in Soldier Field last November; we took the team to Paris when Johnny Sexton’s drop goal broke French hearts; and Aer Lingus was there with the team in London as an historic Grand Slam was completed earlier this year. The renewal of the sponsorship will see Aer Lingus and the IRFU teaming up for a further three years and we look forward to continuing to work with players such as Robbie Henshaw, Conor Murray and Johnny Sexton through to 2021. This November we will again bring the Irish rugby team and Home Advantage to Soldier Field in Chicago, the scene of our glorious victory over the All Blacks last year, this time to take on Italy on November 3. We hope you will come with us too to bring Home Advantage to Chicago, or wherever you choose to be your next destination! Follow us on Twitter @AerLingus and @CARAMagazine.
WINTER WARMERS We all face the struggles of our summer holiday being over but there is no better way to lose those blues than to plan your next getaway. Enjoy great September offers at aerlingus.com.
SEEING STARS Skytrax World Airline Awards has again rated Aer Lingus with four stars in its World Airline Star Ratings – remaining the only Irish airline with a prestigious Skytrax rating.
TRANSATLANTIC TRIUMPHS Aer Lingus operates 17 daily flights between Ireland and 13 destinations in North America, with more destinations to be announced soon! 4 |
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EDITORIAL Editor Lucy White Deputy Editor Eoin Higgins Assistant Editor Melanie Mullan Sub-editor Sheila Wayman Contributors Patrick Bolger, Thomas Breathnach, Aoife Carrigy, Jessie Collins, Graham Corcoran, Rich Gilligan, Yvonne Gordon, Elizabeth Heath, Bridget Hourican, Marie Kelly, Fuchsia MacAree, Tara O’Brien, Gerry O’Shea, Jen Quinn, Eithne Shortall, Niamh Tighe, Sarah Rickard-Lantry, Professor Michael Scott, Gemma Tipton, Mairéad Walsh
CONTRIBUTORS JOSEPH O’CONNOR’s Star of the Sea sold a million copies, Ghost Light and The Thrill of it All have each been published in many languages, and the CD of his pieces for RTÉ Radio, The Drivetime Diaries, was an Irish bestseller. He is professor of creative writing at the University of Limerick and his next novel, Shadowplay, is due out in 2019. In 2008 he was invited to tea by his musical idol, Patti Smith. “It still hasn’t sunk in,” he says, admitting that he has also been a Bob Dylan fan since his early teens, hence being truly excited to write about Woodstock for Cara – see page 62.
ART Art Director Niamh Richardson Creative Director Bill O’Sullivan ADVERTISING Advertising Manager Corinné Vaughan, +353 (0)1 271 9622; firstname.lastname@example.org Advertising Copy Contact Derek Skehan +353 (0)1 855 3855; email@example.com ADMINISTRATION Financial Controller Brett Walker Accounts Manager Lisa Dickenson Credit Controller Angela Bennett Chief Executive Oﬃcer Clodagh Edwards Group Editor-in-Chief Lizzie Gore-Grimes Group Contributing Editor Melanie Morris Group Editor at Large Laura George Editorial Consultant Ann Reihill BOARD OF DIRECTORS Chairman Gina Traynor Directors Patrick Dillon Malone, Melanie Morris, Laura George, Robert Power
PRINTING PCP, England ORIGINATION Typeform Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Cedar Communications Limited and Image Publications.
KIMBERLEY HASSELBRINK is a photographer based in San Francisco. She focuses primarily on food, people and places. Her favourite assignments are on location with people practicing their craft, whether fishermen in Alaska or a seaweed harvester on the California coast. When she’s not working, she loves to get lost in the mountains of the American West. For this feature on San Francisco, page 88, Kimberley raced around the city, shooting her local hangouts, including restaurants, cafés and bars, and tapping into their dynamic energies.
Photographer and actor STE MURRAY enjoys working with all sorts of fellow makers. With a background in architecture, most of his photographic commissions take him to a variety of spaces. When not on the stage as an actor, he can be found behind-the-scenes of shows, involved in everything from promotional to production photos. For this issue of Cara, he enjoyed hanging out with some familiar faces of the Irish theatre scene, taking their portraits in the surroundings of The Lir Academy in Dublin – turn to page 44.
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THE MIGHT OF GLIN THE BURREN • WOODSTOCK • MILAN • SAN FRANCISCO
ON THE COVER
Dominic West photographed at Glin Castle by Eoin Higgins, assisted by Melanie Mullan. Styling by Sarah Rickard-Lantry, and grooming by Jen Quinn.
Welcome to our new issue! We are to all yours. Feel free e away take this magazin rney. for your onward jou ur yo e lov o als uld We wo l feedback and trave photos via Twitter . @CARAMagazine
WHO? Lois and John Skelley FLYING IN FROM ... Isle of Man LOIS SAYS ... “We’ve been to the Isle of Man on holidays but we’re from Australia so have a few days to explore Ireland before heading home.”
WHO? Emily and John Ockay FLYING IN FROM ... New York EMILY SAYS ... “I studied in Galway with Michael [pictured far right] so it’s nice to be back in Ireland.”
Romantic getaways, college reunions and trips on a whim – Cara was at T2 to warmly witness them all.
WHO? Michael and Stephanie Ockay FLYING IN FROM ... New York MICHAEL SAYS ... “John [pictured far left] is my brother and Emily and I studied together in Galway. Looking forward to visiting again.”
WHO? Shatra Bell and Dylan Hanson FLYING IN FROM ... Amsterdam DYLAN SAYS ... “Shatra ﬂew in from New York so we’re meeting half way for a week’s holiday.”
WHO? Finn Leurs, Devyn Seitner and Roy Wieman FLYING IN FROM ... Amsterdam DEVYN SAYS ... “We’re here for eight days and have planned absolutely nothing.”
WORDS BY NIAMH TIGHE / PHOTOGRAPHS BY MELANIE MULLAN
WHO? Kaylee and Paige Held FLYING IN FROM ... Paris PAIGE SAYS ... “We’re from Colorado and have been in Italy and France for a few days and are going to Blarney straight from here.”
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BLARNEY CASTLE & GARDENS Renowned for bestowing the gift of eloquence
See and feel Ireland’s heritage, built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains. Spend the day exploring the extensive grounds and gardens.
Open all year round 5 miles from Cork Open Monday - Sunday 9-6 www.blarneycastle.ie firstname.lastname@example.org ■
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EAT · READ · GO
FLAME ACADEMY More than 100 institutions throughout Berlin play collective host to this year’s European Month of Photography, starting during Berlin Arts Week with EMOP Opening Days, a three-day smorgasbord of discussions, talks, performances and workshops curated by C/O Berlin Foundation this September 28-30. EMOP itself runs until October 31; exhibitions include a retrospective of Nicholas Nixon, creator of The Brown Sisters, as well as images from the international music scene, including this iconic cover image from Pink Floyd’s 1975 masterpiece Wish You Were Here. emop-berlin.eu AERLINGUS.COM |
4 BEST ECO-FRIENDLY HOTELS
Merlin Farm Holiday Cottages, Cornwall Consisting of six farmhouse cottages located in the Cornish countryside – choose from five nearby beaches – Merlin is run on electricity generated by solar panels and heated in winter with wood-burner stoves using local, sustainable timber. Waste is either recycled or composted, and wetsuits are cleaned with collected rainwater. Cottages from £235, minimum three-night stay. merlin-farm-cottages-cornwall.co.uk
Hotel Felix, Chicago An innovator in the Windy City, the Felix’s commitment to upcycling starts from the lobby onwards, with beautiful sculptures made from recycled metals. Carpets and flooring are made from recycled materials and its south-facing aspect allows for natural heating and light throughout the day before low-energy lighting kicks in at night. Rooms from $132. hotelfelixchicago.com
Inspira Santa Marta Hotel, Lisbon Housed in an historic 18th-century building, sustainability is at the core here: it uses 100 per cent renewable energy and is part of a CO2 emissions offset programme. As well as using environmentally friendly materials and paperless systems, the hotel was also designed with Feng Shui principles in mind, including decor that considers the five elements: water, fire, wood, earth and metal. Rooms from €249. inspirahotels.com
Conscious Hotel Westerpark, Amsterdam The team behind Conscious Hotels certainly considered everything environment-related when it came to designing their fourth hotel in Amsterdam. It’s the first hotel in The Netherlands to be powered entirely by Dutch wind energy, while bedroom desks are made from recycled plastics. Even the beer it serves is locally brewed to help reduce its carbon footprint. Rooms from €135. conscioushotels.com
From Batman to Papa Smurf, manga to cosplay, there’s something for every comic fan at the ninth Brussels Comic Strip Festival from September 14-16. Browse the festival tents at Parc de Bruxelles, float alongside the Balloon’s Day Parade or test your knowledge at the Geek Zone. visit.brussels
Who hasn’t dreamed of running away with the circus? Dublin’s National Gallery is hosting a circus-themed workshop for babies and their carers on September 17 (2pm-3pm) to hothouse those playful instincts. The immersive session exposing little hands, eyes and brains to new sounds, colour and pattern is part of the exhibition Circus250: Art of the Show in the Hugh Lane Room until October 14. nationalgallery.ie
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CLICK LIT Author John Banville defined portrait photographer John Minihan’s gift as the ability to be “at once penetrating and discreet, probing and respectful, close-up and impersonal”. To celebrate the photographer’s 70th birthday, the Irish Cultural Centre in London’s Hammersmith hosts Minihan Unframed from September 18 until October 7, with recent works from the prolific master of black-andwhite, including his take on literary icons Edna O’Brien, Martin McDonagh, Colm Tóibín and Banville himself, as well as snapping the odd medium-format selfie, left. irishculturalcentre.co.uk
It’s hard to imagine September without Culture Night, the Ireland-wide celebration that is 13 years young (in Dublin) but feels like it has been forever woven into local life. Do your homework in advance to take full advantage of the vast array of free events as cultural institutions in towns, villages, islands and cities across the country throw their doors open for one autumnal Friday night, on September 21. culturenight.ie
How might you dance a mural inspired by an alphabet? The Liz Roche Company rises to that challenge with I/Thou this September 7-8, in a co-commissioned work by Cork Opera House and Cobh’s Sirius Gallery, where NYC-based Brian O’Doherty debuted his landmark murals, One Here Now – The Ogham Cycle in 1996. Roche re-interprets O’Doherty’s piece, in turn exploring concepts of identity, language, history and landscape. corkoperahouse.ie
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Madrid – how come? I made the move last year when the Dublin studio I had was sold and I was without a place to work. I decided to take advantage of the situation and look elsewhere, finding an artist’s residency in Madrid. I decided to stay on. How would you describe your current work? Usually I’m working on an exhibition six months to a year in advance and right now I’m finishing a new set of paintings for my upcoming exhibition, The Waiting Game, in Turin, Italy. This new work draws parallels with the work of Samuel Beckett, observing the absurdity of the human condition
while looking at the playwright’s creative process … heavy stuff, I know! What are your favourite things about living in Spain? Waking up to blue skies every day, a €2 glass of wine on a terrace at 1pm and it’s considered normal. The tapas culture will never grow old, neither will my love for Ribera and Albariño wine with jamón Ibérico, my monthly visits to the Reina Sofia and Prado museums, or getting caught up in all-night street festivals. Most surprising culture shock? Unbeknownst to myself I’ve adopted the Spanish “no?” at the end of my statements, like I’m in a constant state of shock. It’ll get knocked out of me when I’m back living in Dublin but for now I’m embracing this unnecessarily dramatic way of communication. Where do you spend your downtime? I go to Cine Golem on a Wednesday for their half-price ticket deal. I meet up every Friday
JORGE AYLLON GARCIA
Colm Mac Athlaoich is a painter, printmaker and illustrator who swapped Dublin for Madrid. He has exhibited his work worldwide and presents a solo show at Turin’s Galleria Weber from September 20 until October 20. He’s a member of Dublin’s Graphic Studio and Black Church Print Studio, and in 2006 he co-founded the disbanded Monster Truck Gallery and Studios in D8.
with some friends to play jazz and, if I feel up to it, I might sit in on a jam session in El Junco, off Plaza de Santa Barbara. It kicks off at 11.30pm so the following morning is a write-off. You will never be bored in Madrid, there’s probably too much to do; downtime is almost a full-time occupation. What do you miss about Ireland while you’re in Madrid and vice versa? When I’m away I miss being able to speak fluently; equally, there is something to be said for existing in ignorant silence – living in a city where the noise is cut out by my inability to understand can be very relaxing. What’s been this year’s homecoming highlight to date? I’m back and forth a lot, which is important for me as Ireland is still home. I had an exhibition at the Farmleigh Estate last May, which gave me time to meet up with friends, play and catch a few gigs. My year’s highlight was last month when I returned to make my annual cycling holiday with my mom. Each year we cover
a section of the Wild Atlantic Way; it’s a culinary and sporting endeavour that involves touring the country by bike and eating in the best restaurants along the way. Which Madrid hotspots would you recommend to visitors? Latin American food and music are best experienced in the La Latina and Lavapiés areas – the Mercado San Fernando off Calle Embajadores is my favourite. A stroll from the Conde Duque to Malasaña districts will take you past the best little coffee shops and bars you need. I would also introduce them to a late afternoon vermouth or a caña and a walk in either Retiro Park or Parque del Oeste. I’d suggest a visit to one of the many museums – more than one and your day is gone: go see Picasso’s Guernica in the Reina Sofia or Bosch’s Garden of Earthly Delights in the Prado. The gig scene is great in Madrid, so check out who’s playing in Barceló or Sirocco for a dance, or Café Berlin or Café Central for jazz or Latin.
HOMEWARD BOUND Ireland’s longest running community arts bash, the Clifden Arts Festival, returns to Connemara’s liveliest town this September 12-23 for its 41st year, to explore the theme of home through more than 200 visual and literary arts, music and comedy events. clifdenartsfestival.ie CULTURE
HAN SCHUIL, BLAST VII, 2010 / COLLECTION STEDELIJK MUSEUM AMSTERDAM
Amsterdam’s Stedelijk Museum unveils many new multimedia works at True Luxury: Art Acquisitions 2012–2018 from September 7. The title references Dutch artist Erik van Lieshout’s 2016 installation Echte luxe is niets kopen (True luxury is buying nothing), one of a growing number of works donated to Stedelijk and reﬂects shrinking museum budgets and spiralling prices on the international art market. stedelijk.nl
(DE)SIGN OF OUR TIMES
Great design can be so well-conceived that it is invisible, or it can spur us to rethink the world around us. The 16th annual London Design Festival (londondesignfestival.com) from September 15–23 celebrates international standard-setters and rule-breakers: think Kellenberger-White’s typographyinspired alphabet chairs, Scholten & Baijings’ daily tea party in Fortnum & Mason plus multiple V&A exhibitions that playfully question our environments. See also the London Design Biennale (londondesignfestival.com) at Somerset House from September 4-23.
Dingle and Derry, New York and Belfast, Texas and Berlin: just some of the hotspots that have welcomed the nomadic arts and music festival that is Other Voices. It rocks up in Ballina, Co Mayo, this September 28–29, in cahoots with the annual Food Fleadh of this historic market town at the broad mouth of the River Moy. Little Green Cars, pictured, and Seamus Fogarty are among the featured acts. ballina.ie
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DINS SANTI TAURA MALLORCA
Mallorca is a ﬁzzing, melting pot of cultural inﬂuences, from the Moors to the Catalans, and nowhere is that reﬂected more superbly than in its traditional cuisine. Like Mallorca’s heritage, Dins Santi Taura is quite a ﬁnd. Hidden behind the main restaurant Santi Taura, it is a limited-seat culinary experience where chef Santi talks you through a 15-course tasting voyage into Mallorca’s heritage. Think tumbet (roasted vegetables), bacallà (cod) and sobrassada (cured sausage). This is a chef deeply in touch with his roots and on top of his game. One of my favourite meals this year. restaurantdins.com
LIMA FLORAL LONDON
When I’m in London I love a late brunch at this great restaurant by Virgilio Martinez, where you can enjoy Peruvian dishes in a relaxed, colourful room. The menu oﬀers a wide range of specialities including raw and veggie dishes. Give me the tuna ceviche, Cuzco corn cakes and a pisco sour and I’m beaming. Meanwhile, all the food at Floral stays true to Virgilio’s philosophy of using authentic, seasonal and fresh ingredients. limalondongroup.com
Italian-born Manuela Spinelli is the secretary general of Euro-Toques Ireland, whose annual Young Chef of the Year competition is regarded as Ireland’s “premier cooking awards for young chefs”. A self-proclaimed food-enthusiast, Manuela has been instrumental in creating a unique Irish platform where international food trends and ideas can be shared. On September 8 Manuela hosts a Future of Food round-table talk at the Feast Cork festival – see further details on page 22.
THE ETHICUREAN BRISTOL
There’s something quite magical at The Ethicurean: from the creative, zerokilometre food to the picturesque setting – a Victorian walled garden that's also the source of the seasonal produce you’ll ﬁnd on the menu. It’s a haven for divine, home-distilled drinks too, such as the unmissable Old Faithful and spirited cocktails that go perfectly with an evening view over the rolling Somerset hills. This is a must for those who want to feel connected to what they eat and drink. It’s certainly a must for me any time I ﬂy into Bristol. theethicurean.com
LA PALTA MILAN
Situated in Bilegno, 65 kilometres south of the city of Milan, here you can enjoy traditional dishes cooked by the talented Isa Mazzocchi. The restaurant holds a Michelin star but I love its relaxed and convivial atmosphere – so typically Italian. The menu is seasonal and Isa is renowned for her pasta dishes – tortelli with spinach and ricotta, ravioli with Parmesan cheese and stuﬀed gnocchi. A destination restaurant, well worth the drive. lapalta.it
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5 Local Honeys September is a richly melliferous month as the late summer honey harvest peaks and jars across the land brim with liquid sunshine. Here are ﬁve ﬁrm Irish favourites.
THE MAIN EVENTS
Airﬁeld Food Series (airﬁeld.ie) panellists tackle an increasingly important issue on September 6: food packaging. The talk will tease out its eﬀects on people and our planet, in the stunning surroundings of south Dublin’s Airﬁeld Estate. Meanwhile, food and drinks festival Feast Cork (feastcork.ie) runs from September 2-9 in the market town of Midleton, Co Cork, showcasing the very best food, drink and cooking from the ﬂourishing culinary destination, like this handsome dish, pictured, from Midleton’s Sage restaurant.
GRUB’S UP Eoin Higgins has a nose for novel and seasonal fare.
A SHUCK TON
Oyster festivals abound this month as the moreish briny morsels come back into season. The Galway International Oyster & Seafood Festival (September 28-30; galwayoysterfestival.com) is the country’s best-known and longest running; the Cliﬀ Oyster Festival (cliﬀtownhouse.ie) features a “Jazz and Oyster Sunday” (September 16), while the capital’s “ﬁve-star oyster festival” runs throughout the month at Dublin’s glamorous Shelbourne Hotel (shelbournedining.ie).
Chicago chef Jenny Kim’s Italian/Korean fusion hotspot, Passerotto, continues to live up to the hype where a “low-waste policy” and “the art of mindfulness” are in favour. It’s not just about being “woke” though; the food, such as lamb tartare ﬂecked with Parmesan, violet chive blossoms and slivers of Asian pear, is frame-breaking too. passerottochicago.com
MENU MASTERCLASS: PIZZA PERFECTION
THE PLACE Forno 500°, 74 Dame Street, Dublin 2, 01 679 4555; forno500.ie. THE DISH The Forno 500 pizza with ﬁor di latte, home-made meatballs, basil, pecorino and extra virgin olive oil, €14. THE DRINK Campari spritz, €9.
Galtee Irish Honey is an award-winning honey harvested from beehives situated in the biodiversity found throughout the Galtee Vee Vale. Available at The English Market in Cork and Lilliput Stores, Dublin 7. galteehoney.com The Dublin Honey Project aims to produce raw honey from each of the postcodes of Dublin. Available from various retailers, including Irish Design Shop, Dublin 2. facebook.com/ DublinHoneyProject The folks at Déise Irish Honey are champions of the native Irish black bee, as much as they are fans of the gorgeous honey it produces. Available at Ardkeen foodstore, in Waterford City. ardkeen.com Harvested from hives in Dublin, Wexford and Wicklow, Brian O’Toole’s unheated and untreated Leinster Honey is golden, viscous and memorably ﬂavoursome. Available from leinsterhoney.ie.
From the Sliabh Aughty mountains in the West of Ireland, the Leahy family have been producing their nutritious Sliabh Aughty Honey for four generations. The ambrosia is available at leahybeekeeping.com.
JOIN THE JET SET
Lucy White pilots some of the world’s best aviation museums and expos. centre stage in this fabulously fun exhibition that includes human stories and reveals why one out of every five passenger planes in the world is managed from Ireland. littlemuseum.ie
PARIS FRANCE North-east of central Paris, in the commune of Le Bourget, is the Air and Space Museum. Bring your comfiest chaussures for this aviation attraction that covers 148,650 square metres and
features 400 aircraft. Among its many highlights are guided tours of the Concorde and Boeing 747, both from the 1960s, World War II fighter jets, rotary-wing aircraft, a planetarium and an interactive space for kids, Planète Pilote, complete with space suits. museeairespace.fr
BRISTOL UK This October the Aerospace Bristol celebrates its first birthday. Based in Filton, a 20-minute drive north of the city centre, this popular museum and education centre is themed around seven different eras of aviation – starting with early pioneers to the brave men and women playing their part in two world wars. Its centrepiece is a stand-alone hangar celebrating the story of Concorde. Here you can board the 216; the last of its kind to be built and the last to fly. aerospacebristol.org MUKILTEO USA If you
thought the other museums in this edit were big then the Future of Flight Aviation Center & Boeing Tour in Washington State is colossal. Forty kilometres north
of Seattle is this Disneyland-sized exhibition space and working factory: the only public tour of a commercial jet assembly plant in North America. There are interactive and immersive displays aplenty across 2,600 square metres before you even get to the Boeing facility, where you can watch 747s, 777s and 787 Dreamliners being assembled right before your eyes. futureofflight.org
WASHINGTON DC USA
The US capital is famous for its memorials but its National Air and Space Museum is one of TripAdvisor’s top-five attractions and welcomes eight million visitors each year. Widely regarded as the best aeronautical museum in the world, it boasts the first ever aeroplane – the Wright Flyer, dating back to 1903 – and the Apollo 11 Command Module, Columbia; the only part of the spacecraft that made it back to Earth with Aldrin, Armstrong and Collins. Best of all, as a Smithsonian museum, admission is completely free. airandspace.si.edu
ILLUSTRATION BY TARA O’BRIEN
DUBLIN IRELAND More cockpit than hangar sized, the Little Museum of Dublin is nonetheless a treat for plane spotters until October 15. The Wings of Ireland: A People’s History of Irish Aviation charts the evolution of Irish aircraft, from balloons and Mayflys to flying boats and jumbo jets. Naturally, Aer Lingus takes
Immerse yourself in tales of sacrifice, adventure and triumph at EPIC The Irish Emigration Museum, the worldâ€™s only fully digital museum. Interactive, enlightening and visually beautiful, it tells the captivating story of a small island with a big impact on the world. Discover the inspiring history of Ireland and its people, uncover your Irish roots at the Irish Family History Centre and leave with an overwhelming pride in Irish heritage.
Open 7 days a week 10amâ€“6:45 (last entry 5pm) CHQ, Custom House Quay, Dublin 1
BOOK ONLINE epicchq.com
THIS SEASON’S EDIT OF HEIRLOOM-QUALITY KEEPSAKES AND EXEMPLARY ELIXIRS.
1. BO SELECTER
The natural deodorant market is exploding and Modern Botany’s spray combats nasty niffs and joins its highly rated multi-tasking oil for hair, face and nails. Made in Schull. €25 and €35 at modernbotany.com.
2. STERLING WORK
Metal whizz Ariane Tobin looks to the natural world, engineering and cellular structures for her handmade jewellery, like this tactile Sentinel pendant rendered in sterling silver and plated in rose gold. €155 at arianetobin.ie.
3. IN A LATHER
The Dublin, Howthbased Marram Co put the pleasure back into humdrum shaving with moodenhancing lotions and cutting-edge (ho ho), investable kit. Creams from €9 (20ml) and tools from €180 at marramco.com.
4. SMOOTH AS ...
Jack McGarry’s edgy blend of Irish malt and grain whiskeys is stocked at his cult New York bar, The Dead Rabbit, of course, but you’ll also find it at Dublin’s Celtic Whiskey Shop at €54. celticwhiskeyshop. com
5. FLOWER POWER
Jennifer Slattery’s Irish linen textiles start life as multimedia drawings and paintings before being scanned into a computer and hand-embroidered, each one made in her Dublin studio shop. Table runner €76 at jenniferslattery.com.
6. ON THE FRINGE
Sara O’Dea’s Shady and the Lamp shades give good va-va-voom. Silk, fringing and bold colours combine with traditional handcrafts at her Dublin showroom and studio. From €110 at shadyandthelamp.ie.
Bridget Hourican gets on-board a beautiful aviation vision and delves into new reads, audio and events.
© THE BRITISH LIBRARY BOARD
TAKING TO THE AIR: AN ILLUSTRATED HISTORY OF FLIGHT BY LILY FORD (British Library, hbk) Drawing on the British Library’s huge print archive, this book focuses on “the performance and spectacle of ﬂight” as “something experienced by people on the ground, not just those lucky enough to make it into the air”. Starting with the earliest ﬂight machines – Da Vinci’s airscrew design of 1500 and de Terzi’s 1670 proposal for a ﬂying machine – it moves through the hot air balloons of the 18th and 19th centuries and on to 20th-century aviation, through aerial bombardment and the jet age. An erudite text accompanies the wonderful drawings, designs, prints, posters and photos, including this one shown here.
MEMOIR IN MY MIND’S EYE by Jan Morris (Faber) The great travel writer has “never before kept a diary of my thoughts” but here she is “at the start of my tenth decade, having a go at it”. The entries are brief and wonderfully diverse: on cats, cars (she still drives), old age, goats, obesity, musicals, “the abrogation of innocence” in the children of Wales, and always she transports us back: “The very ﬁrst American I ever met was Irving Berlin”. Gosh! TRAVEL FOUND IN TRANSLATION by Frank Wynne (Apollo) The award-winning translator of Michel Houellebecq and Patrick Modiano chooses 100 short stories “found in translation”, from Cervantes and Pushkin to Herta Müller and Mija Unge by way of Cavafy, Yourcenar and Kadare. He throws the net beyond Europe with stories from Azerbaijan, Palestine, Indonesia, Pakistan, China etc. Indispensable for travellers – read about the destination to which you’re heading. FICTION NORTHERN HEIST by Richard O’Rawe (Merrion Press) O’Rawe, a convicted IRA bank robber, is author of two books on the 1981 Hunger Strike. For his ﬁction debut, he daringly re-imagines one of the biggest bank heists in British or Irish history, the 2004 Northern Bank Robbery. In this telling, it’s the work of an ordinary criminal who manages to hoodwink the police, IRA and his own doubledealing accomplices. Clever, well-paced and authentic in atmosphere and dialogue.
DOWNLOAD PODCAST THE NEW YORKER
The Cork International Short Story Festival takes place in Cork City this September 12-15. The 2018 Frank O’Connor Fellow, Carys Davies, and AngloAmerican Simon Van Booy are two of the writers giving readings and workshops. The Munster Literature Centre journal, Southword, is being relaunched in print after being online for eight years, and The Stinging Fly journal will be celebrating its 20th anniversary. corkshortstory.net
The legendary weekly magazine oﬀers a lot by way of podcast: in The New Yorker Radio Hour, editor David Remnick talks to writers, journalists, comedians, actors about politics, society, art, law and humour. Then there’s the Fiction Podcast and the Poetry Podcast where writers read work from the New Yorker’s archive, often making unexpected choices (check out Julian Barnes on Frank O’Connor), and The Writer’s Voice where writers read their own work and Politics and More where Dorothy Wickenden talks the latest news and on-goings with a variety of guests. The nearest substitute to attending a New York dinner party with the smart set.
THE GREAT IRISH WEATHER BOOK by JOANNA DONNELLY (Gill Books, €19.99) Meteorologist Joanna Donnelly has been a regular fixture on Irish TV screens for a few years and now she’s transferring her knowledge from RTÉ’s weather bulletins to the page. With delightful illustrations from regular Cara contributor Fuchsia MacAree, this weather-opedia is the perfect combination of science and fun.
GRANUAILE: QUEEN OF MAYO by JOHN and FATTI BURKE (Gill Books, €12.99) Illustrator Fatti Burke and her father, a retired primary-school teacher, have been regaling readers of all ages for several years now with their vibrant and informative books about history, Ireland and everything in between. This latest one sees the father-daughter duo telling the story of that great Irish rebel – Gráinne O’Malley.
Make room on your children’s shelves – and on your own bedside tables – for Ireland’s newest crop of illustrated books, says Eithne Shortall.
BRIGHT SPARKS by OWEN O’DOHERTY (O’Brien Press, €14.99) Architect Owen O’Doherty wrote this book for his sevenyear-old daughter, to show her the extraordinary things that women have invented, discovered and designed. This beautifully illustrated guide gives names to the inspirational women behind such innovations as windscreen wipers, emergency flares and Monopoly. Young readers will also be encouraged to do some inventing of their own.
ISLAND OF ADVENTURES by JENNIFER FARLEY (O’Brien Press, €16.99)
THE PRESIDENT’S CAT by PETER DONNELLY (Gill Books, €14.99)
The whole family can be tour guides with this exciting handbook to the island of Ireland. Jennifer Farley’s illustrations take us surfing off the west coast, horse riding through the Irish wilderness and surveying the whole island from a hot air balloon. Each page promises a new adventure.
Peter Donnelly’s gorgeous debut, The President’s Glasses, was the bestselling picture book in Ireland last year. For his follow up, Donnelly has taken Michael D Higgins as his muse once again. This time the story centres on the Irish president’s cat who, having gotten lost, must take a scenic route home.
DR HIBERNICA FINCH’S COMPELLING COMPENDIUM OF IRISH ANIMALS by ROB MAGUIRE (Little Island, €20) Dr Hibernica Finch is an Irish professor who knows all there is to know about Irish wildlife. Her guide to Ireland’s animals of land, sea and air is presented in the style of notebooks and field notes, with some jokes thrown in. Polish-Irish illustrator Aga Grandowicz provides zoologically correct depictions in full colour.
Favourite holiday memory? Crete last year when my partner took me there for my birthday and proposed. My whole family was staying in the town next to ours and we all met up the next day in the Old Town in Chania. We went for a meal in a church that is now a restaurant and sipped delicious wine under the beautiful pink bougainvillea that were growing out of the walls and spent the whole afternoon chatting and laughing – three generations of our family – it was very special.
Your favourite downtime in Northern Ireland? When I’m in Belfast I always have to call into the Duke of York pub – or as my friends and I like to call it, “The Oﬃce”. It’s always my ﬁrst port of call to catch up with friends and you’re always sure of a warm welcome, a cracking pint and piles of craic. When I’m home on the north coast it has to be The Harbour Bar in Portrush or The Ramore next door – an institution. I’ve been going there with my family since I was wee and always love to call in for a pint and some great food, below.
Best food city? I’ve been very fortunate to be able to travel a lot with my job and I adore exploring and ﬁnding new cafés and restaurants – I always try to ﬁnd where the locals go. But to be honest, you can’t beat home. For such a small city, Belfast has incredible restaurants. Made in Belfast for casual, laidback dining; Slim’s Kitchen for a healthy fast-food option and Deanes, above, for a special occasion. You are spoilt for choice in Belfast.
MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK
The strangest place you’ve ﬁlmed in? When we were ﬁlming Steel Country [co-starring Andrew Scott and Denise Gough] in Griﬃn, Georgia, I played Donna, a garbage disposal lady who drives a truck, so we had to go on site and haul bags and dumpsters in a real working facility. I got to drive an old vintage garbage truck as well, which was pretty cool.
Bronagh Waugh is a Northern Irish actress who played Cheryl Brady in the Channel 4 soap opera Hollyoaks before getting into meatier dramas, including the hit BBC series The Fall, in which she played Sally Ann Spector, and the recent police drama Unforgotten (available on ITV Hub). At the British Soap Awards, Waugh has been nominated for Best Newcomer, Best Actress and Best Comedy Your next holiday? For our honeymoon we will Performance. be going to Calais for four days to volunteer with
How would you describe your character in Unforgotten? Jessica Reid is haunted by the disappearance of her identical twin sister 18 years ago. She struggles to move on or to cope with the trauma, especially after her twin sister Hayley’s body is found and a murder enquiry begins. Her family’s whole world is turned upside down again> It’s a heartbreaking, intimate portrait of how profoundly families are aﬀected by such horriﬁc events.
HelpRefugees.org and Care4Calais. We’ve asked for donations instead of gifts for our wedding so, hopefully, we will have lots of sleeping bags, tents and supplies that we can take over. On the way back, we might have time to venture a little further for a day and do some exploring – I love getting lost in new places.
MADE IN IRELAND
BLARNEY WOOLLEN MILLS an Irish Family Business
shop on l in e @ b l a rney .co m
5 GOOD REASONS ...
… to muse on Munich. Eoin Higgins dons his lederhosen, one leg at a time.
BEER GALORE The world-famous Oktoberfest begins on September 22 and runs until October 7, leaving plenty of time to discover some of the world’s most interesting beers, beer gardens and beer halls. Knock steins with locals and perhaps some of the more than six million visitors who descend on the city to shoot the breeze and blow the froth off some of the world’s finest beers.
SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to MUNICH twice daily.
FAIRYTALE CASTLE A day-trip to the 19thcentury, Romanesque Neuschwanstein Castle is a worthy and whimsical excursion. Its minarets, high walls and spires may seem familiar – the castle was the original inspiration for Disneyland’s Sleeping Beauty Castle, plus,
they have played starring roles in Chitty Chitty Bang Bang and The Great Escape. Best viewed from nearby Marienbrücke (Mary’s Bridge), the interior is accessible exclusively via a 35-minute guided tour. PRETTY POOL A swimming pool might surprise as a reason to visit a city but the Müller’sches Volksbad is a bona fide draw to the Bavarian capital. One of Europe’s most impressive Art Nouveau structures, visitors have been diving into its warm waters since 1901. The Roman steam bath and openair courtyard are both highlights, but make sure to indulge in a relaxing post-dip massage too. swm.de FOOD TRIP The city’s Viktualienmarkt (food market) is a fertile feeding ground for any food and drinks explorer worth their salz. Large, by any standard, the market has existed in one form or another since 1807. Start at the edge and nibble or graze your way through to a flavoursome centre via seven massive market halls, each specialising in a different food type. It can be thirsty work so the shaded beer garden at the centre comes as a pleasing oasis.
ILLUSTRATION BY GRAHAM CORCORAN
MAKING WAVES Surfing may sound like an odd pursuit for a land-locked city but Munich volks are not your typical burghers. In the equally extraordinary Englischer Garten (English Garden) park in the centre of the city, you’ll find surf dudes and dudettes ripping it up the Eisbach, an artificial river that runs through the largest public park in Germany. At times gnarly, this is not a beginner’s stretch.
titanic the Legend the Story
ExplorE thE sights, sounds and storiEs of rMs titanic at this world lEading visitor attraction in thE city whErE it all BEgan, BElfast, northErn irEland.
B o o k n o w at t i ta n i c b e l fas t.c o m
THE GREAT OUTDOORS Jump on the ferry to Toronto Island, which is actually a group of 15 interconnected islands. Bring a picnic, rent a bike, or enjoy one of the beaches (including a clothing optional beach on Hanlan’s Point …). Cap off the day in a kayak or on a stand-up paddle board along Lake Ontario with the city skyline in the backdrop. (Jack Layton Ferry Terminal at Bay Street and Queen’s Quay; torontoisland.com)
AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO
TORONTO Mairéad Walsh reveals her stomping grounds in the 6ix.
MORE ABOUT MAIRÉAD Mairéad Walsh is a lifestyle and travel editor born and raised in Toronto, with a Kilkenny father and Kerry mother who are vibrant members of the Toronto Irish community. Currently based in Dubai, Mairéad spends every summer in Toronto discovering the city’s ever-evolving culture, character and cuisine.
THE EATS A foodie heaven for both residents and visitors, St Lawrence Market is a Toronto institution. The historical food hall is home to hundreds of vendors offering a taste of the city’s dynamic cultural tapestry. Quintessentially Canadian chart-toppers include the award-winning peameal bacon on a bun from Carousel Bakery and Montreal-style bagels from St Urbain, but equally mouth-watering is the aubergine Parmesan sandwich at Uno Mustachio. (92-95 Front Street East, +1 416 392 7219; stlawrencemarket.com)
THE BUCKET LIST Toronto’s most celebrated icon and feat of engineering, the CN Tower is unmissable and, if you fancy a daredevil twist, the Edgewalk will definitely boost your adrenaline. The world’s highest hands-free (but harnessed) walk on a five-foot ledge – 116 storeys up – offers a stunning view of the city if you’re brave enough to look down, or you can simply go to the 360 Restaurant for a more relaxed view. (301 Front Street West, +1 416 601 3833; edgewalkcntower.ca)
THE SHOPPING Queen Street West (from University to Niagara Street) is edgy, hip and trendy and also boasts some of the best clubs and cafés. The further west you go, the more funky, retro and bohemian it gets. Try Smoke + Ash (644 Queen Street West) for fun fashion pieces, and Zane (753 Queen Street West) for local and international brand accessories.
THE DRINKS Take a tour, drink from the refinery tanks, hell, you can even go to beer school at the Mill Street Brewery. Set in the pedestrian-only Distillery District, a collection of quaint 19th-century buildings that once housed a large whiskey distillery, the brewery is one of many hip bars and boutiques that line the cobblestone streets. (21 Tank House Lane, +1 416 681 0338; millstreetbrewery.com)
SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to TORONTO daily.
NAOMI C AMP B EL L FOR N EWBRIDGE SILVERWA RE
See more at www.newbridgesilverware.com
MAN for all SEASONS
From The Wire to The Affair, Dominic West has a habit of making groundbreaking television. Here he talks about raising five kids, his real-life passions and why he’s more Irish than the FitzGeralds. WORDS JESSIE COLLINS PHOTOGRAPHS EOIN HIGGINS
ot many people have ever watched The Wire, not really.” Dominic West doesn’t do bravado. He doesn’t feign. Sitting on the lovingly worn sofa, in the lovingly worn living room of his wife’s ancestral home of Glin Castle, on the banks of the Shannon estuary in north-west Limerick, he is a remarkable mix of high energy and calm; he is engaged, passionate, self-deprecating. “Smaller shows,” he continues, “have an infinitely bigger audience. Yet The Wire is still the gold standard by which great television is judged. But it didn’t start out that way, it was really only the guys who were involved who were watching – street guys, the police and lawyers. “And then it became rarified, writers would watch it, then TG4 got it. I didn’t notice [the impact] in the UK until it had pretty much
finished. And that’s when it really took off.” It came after years of toing and froing for the actor to the US. “At the time it was a bit soul destroying. I was six months of the year in Baltimore, away from my eldest daughter so I was miserable in that way. In other ways we had an amazing time. And now it’s sort of the gift that keeps on giving. I still get people coming up and saying they are just starting to watch it, or are rewatching it.” It is still the show that he is most recognised for. “The other day some guy leaned out of a car and shouted: ‘Hey McNulty, how you doing?’ I’m embarrassed to say I was really chuffed. In front of my kids even more so. [West has five children, Martha from a previous relationship with Polly Astor, and Dora, Senan, Francis and Christabel with his wife Catherine FitzGerald]. When they are despairing of your soccer skills, or lack thereof,
that kind of makes up for it a bit.” Martha, 19, is less enthused. “She saw it recently and just said, ‘dad, it’s really dated’!” That shouldn’t bother West too much as The Wire is fast becoming a footnote in a really impressive body of work. Other standout television dramas include the much-lauded, all-too-short-lived BBC series The Hour, followed by his exceptionally deft and disturbing portrayal of
Fred West in ITV’s Appropriate Adult (2011), which earned him a BAFTA, and the Golden Globewinning US show The Affair. Now in its fourth season, The Affair began as a gripping cocktail of destruction and romance caused by infidelity, and has since grown into a compelling study of relationships, all the while using the smart device of depicting the same scenario through different protagonists’ eyes.
“... If you’ve got a good script and you’ve got good fellow actors then you’ve hit the jackpot.” 40 |
“It has been really interesting,” says West, “because I didn’t think it would last this long but then you never do. It sort of gets better. The viewpoint, the construction of that, is really clever and with endless dramatic possibility. I suppose that’s what’s sustained it.” West has a canny ability to pick quality work. Yet it is less strategic, he says, than it might seem. “Very few things are really well written, not many things are well directed, so if you’ve got a good script and you’ve got good fellow actors then you’ve hit the jackpot. And that’s really been my only other tenet.” He has just returned from filming in Belgium, where he was playing Jean Valjean for a new (non-singing) production of Les Misérables, due to air on BBC in the New Year. “I enjoyed it so much. It had great meaning, and that character is so noble and great, that was a joy to live with. I thought I just don’t really want to do anything else now. I don’t really want to play bad people. I don’t have enough life left.” Playing the infamous serial killer Fred West was certainly a dark role. “We shot that in three weeks. It had to be that quick, because anyone who ever had dealings with that case had a breakdown. Those guys get in your head, and I was very conscious of that. I remember I had a dream which featured him in it and I realised I had to get out quick. I haven’t thought about him since.” He has a new movie, Colette, based on the life of the famous French novelist (played by Keira Knightley), due for release in early 2019, in which he plays her husband, the libertine Henry Gauthier-Villars. Deliciously complex, they were a celebrated and deeply modern partnership for their time. “That’s what interested me about the film, this couple were iconoclastic and very liberal. It’s a good film for now, for the #MeToo era.” Film and TV may have become his mainstay but theatre was West’s original passion. Born in Sheffield in 1969, both his mother and father
WORLD EXCLUSIVE Kurt Cobain’s family has specially curated some of his very personal items for this once in a lifetime exhibition. On display at The Museum of Style Icons are Kurt’s drawings and sketches along with clothing, hand-written lyrics and the only known car Kurt owned during his life, a powder blue 1965 Dodge Dart.
On view until 30th September only THE MUSEUM OF STYLE ICONS at Newbridge Silverware, Newbridge, Co. Kildare, I re l a n d .
VISITOR CENTRE | FAC TO RY TO URS | MUSEUM OF STY L E I CON S | CA F É C A R L E TON Ope n 7 days . Fre e p arking. T: 353 ( 0 ) 4 5 4 3 1 3 01 . www.newbridgesilverware.com
BOOK “Les Misérables by Victor Hugo really is the best book ever written. It’s better than War and Peace. It’s great because in the introduction to the book it says, as long as there is poverty in this world this book will have meaning. It’s about the poor, the disadvantaged, about people that the likes of Trump don’t care about. Who are going to suffer from the egomaniacs of this world. And so it will always have relevance.” MUSIC “I love 1960s
R&B. I love funk, particularly 1970s funk and James Brown, Aretha Franklin, Muscle Shoals. To me that was real music. After that, the robots invaded.”
were of direct Irish descent: his grandfather came from Borrisokane in Co Tipperary, his maternal grandmother from Galway, while his dad’s mum was from Mayo. West studied English literature at Trinity in Dublin, while his father spent the last ten years of his life in Kinsale. So, despite marrying into the 700-year-old Knights of Glin FitzGerald family, he is, he likes to remind his wife, probably more Irish than her. Raised in a firmly Catholic household with his six siblings, his mother ran an amateur theatre group in Sheffield. “I was nine when I played The Winslow Boy and that’s sort of where I trace my love of acting to. I wasn’t ever really going to do anything else.” Theatre is still where he longs to return, just not quite yet. “I’ve had amazing offers but I’ve got another four years of my kids being still interested in me and I don’t want to waste any more of that time.” In the interim, there is a children’s novel he has adapted into a screenplay that he is keen to direct and a few historical characters, including Daniel O’Connell, which he’d 42 |
like to play. And there’s the small matter of getting Glin Castle up and running, for private retreats, family getaways and weddings. He is keen to reinstate the house as a thriving heart of the community but it comes with some caveats. “I find it gets me roped into things like swimming across the Shannon to Clare, and the Glin triathlon, I’m forced to do them all!” With the fifth and final season of The Affair due to film this autumn, his only other shortterm goal is to try to convince his family to take a road trip along America’s West Coast, before they are sucked into serious schooling and he is too uncool to hang out with – although the latter may already have come to pass. “I put on The Sound of Music to watch in the car recently for my kids. I was just in floods of tears in the front seat, saying ‘this is the best bit!’ But my daughters were stony faced ...” Dominic West, weeping in his car to The Sound of Music. It’s an image I won’t readily forget, a testament to the actor’s unique mix of the frivolous and the profound. You don’t get more Irish than that.
FILMS “Gadjo Dilo [also known as The Crazy Stranger, a FrenchRomanian film directed and written by Tony Gatlif] is one of my favourite movies, I think, ever made. But I do love The Sound of Music ... It’s an unbelievably great film and the songs are so great.” THEATRE “I just worked with Kathryn Hunter and I love the work that she does. Anything by Jez Butterworth too. I saw his play Jerusalem about four times, and then the next play he did, a chamber piece called The River, I was lucky enough to be in, and no one saw it!”
COVER: KNITTED POLO SHIRT, ACNE STUDIOS, €230 AT BROWN THOMAS; FINN TAILORED BLAZER, MAGEE 1866, €315 AT ARNOTTS. OPENING SPREAD, AS BEFORE. PREVIOUS PAGE: WHITE COTTON SHIRT, €68 AT MARKS & SPENCER; FINN TAILORED SUIT (SOLD AS THREE PIECE), MAGEE 1866, €699 AT ARNOTTS; SILK POCKET SQUARE, MAGEE 1866, €29 AT ARNOTTS; SHOES, DOMINIC’S OWN. THIS PAGE: KNITTED POLO SHIRT, AS BEFORE. STYLED BY SARAH RICKARD-LANTRY; GROOMING: JEN QUINN.
THE LIKES OF DOMINIC
See for yourself our expert craftsmen channel their knowledge and experience into unique jewellery and cutlery collections which embody heritage and skill. Skills which remain virtually unchanged since we began in 1934.
GUIDED TOUR: Adult €12, Senior Citizen / Student €10. Please see www.newbridgesilverware.com for detailed tour information. Newbridge Silverware, Newbridge, Co. Kildare, Ireland. Only 40 mins from Dublin. Open 7 days. Free parking.
Living Heritage VISITOR CENTRE MUSEUM OF STYLE ICONS CAFÉ CARLETON
M A ST E R S O F
ILLUS I O N Ireland has a world-class reputation for storytelling but it takes more than a great yarn to create magic. To celebrate this season’s Dublin fringe and theatre festivals, we step behind the curtain to meet the stagecraft artists who conjure up the perfect settings for dramatic effect. WORDS GEMMA TIPTON PHOTOGRAPHS STE MURRAY
t’s that moment of pure theatrical promise: when the curtain goes up and you see the stage set for the first time. Or perhaps it’s when you walk into a venue and discover the scene, spot-lit, waiting for action, and you truly start anticipating what is to come. Whatever the set-up, before the actors take their entrances, from front of house to setting the scene, there’s a whole world of backstage chicanery that goes in to making a piece of theatre. As Dublin’s Fringe and International Theatre Festivals roll into town, bringing more than two months of drama, comedy, passion, tragedy and love to the city and county’s stages, we meet some of the extraordinarily creative people, the often unsung heroes, whose stagecraft all adds up to make those theatrical moments happen. The Dublin Fringe Festival runs September 8-23, fringefest. com; and the Dublin Theatre Festival (DTF) runs from September 27 until October 14, dublintheatrefestival.com.
THE SCENE SETTER
SET AND COSTUME DESIGNER A Holy Show at the Fringe, September 8-15 “I always liked making things,” says Molly O’Cathain. “I wanted to be an architect, then I decided I wanted to be an architect of fake things instead.” A Holy Show, Janet Moran’s comedy based on the real-life 1981 hijacking of an Aer Lingus plane by an ex-Trappist monk (with a bottle of water as his weapon), sounds like the ideal playground for Molly’s designs. “I’m not sure that I have a particular style,” she continues, though she credits her mother, the artist Liz Nilsson, with inspiring her creativity. “I have things I return to, such as working with strong colour palettes, patterns and repeated objects, or designing mad headpieces, but, obviously, these things aren’t suited to every project. It’s always about using space and objects to create visual metaphors, balanced with solving or serving the practical needs of the show.” Electing to be a set designer in school gave Molly lots of opportunities, because, as she says, “everyone else wanted to be on stage”. Studying drama at Trinity, led to joining Rough Magic’s brilliant Seeds programme and a placement at London’s Royal Court. She also has her own theatre company Malaprop, whose play, Everything Not Saved (“our most design-ambitious show yet”) was just shown at this year’s Edinburgh Fringe. Favourite place to experience theatre? In Dublin, it’s definitely the Project Arts Centre. What do you dream of? Salted caramel, matriarchy and unlimited design budgets.
PEOPLE | STAGECRAFT
THE DOUBLE JOBBER
DIRECTOR AND BAND MEMBER Everything I Do at the Fringe, September 8-15 Co-founder and frontline singer with the band Maud in Cahoots, Maud Lee brings her passion for music to the stage with her Fringe show, Everything I Do. “It’s a live concept album, performed by my sister Zoe, about love, loneliness and communication,” explains Maud. “Zoe and I write albums and then create theatre shows around the songs to express emotions we find difficult to talk about in real life.” It was music that brought Maud into theatre. Now based in Dublin, she had moved to New York because she felt “it would be a good place to be anonymous for a while and figure out what kind of music I wanted to make. The immediacy of theatre excites me,” she continues. “Placing our
audience in a theatre context has allowed us the opportunity to realise the emotional impact of the material we write, in a way that I don’t think is possible with a live band gig in a traditional venue.” So how different is theatre to gigging? “There is a lot more work involved in staging a theatre piece but the payoff is worth it. Live gigs with the band have a different energy. For me, there is less pressure with live gigs. I feel weightless when performing with the band, I can let go completely. In our theatre shows, I feel a huge responsibility to execute every element very precisely.” Favourite place to experience theatre? I enjoy seeing work in fringe venues both in Dublin and when I travel. I’m interested in experimental, multidisciplinary work so like to see theatre in non-traditional venues. Who inspires you? My husband, my daughter and Beyoncé.
AARON KENNEDY STAGE MANAGER ELIZA’s Adventures in the Uncanny Valley is at DTF, October 3-7 When you experience that moment in theatre, where everything has come together, you probably have someone like Aaron Kennedy to thank. Aaron is a stage manager, “in a nutshell, the facilitator of the production”, Aaron explains. “The director calls the shots creatively but the stage manager puts it all together.” Aaron’s upcoming DTF show is about an artificial intelligence software, called ELIZA, produced by the highly creative Pan Pan theatre company. Dublin born and bred, Aaron got into theatre at a young age. “I was always involved in small productions and my interest was always in the technical end of how a production is put together.” Volunteering at The Mill Theatre, Dundrum, led to a place on the stage management course at The Lir, which Aaron describes as
intense but very rewarding. “Calling a show” means giving the cues for everything, from actors, to sound, lighting and scene changes. Aaron loves the adrenaline of it. “It takes a lot to put on a performance, hours upon hours of rehearsal. The energy can be electric. Nervousness is inevitable but there’s the happiness that the moment has arrived, and the excitement of getting to do what you love most.” What about the hairy moments? “There have been lots,” Aaron agrees. “But if I told you, I would have to kill you! What I do is ensuring these situations are dealt with, so the audience gets the best show, completely unaware of the odd dodgy moment.” What do you dream of? I was told growing up by my mum and Auntie Jack to follow my dreams and that you can be whatever you want to be. What inspires you? Believe it or not the audience inspires me: whether that’s watching people laughing or crying, and knowing that you have brought them into another world.
PEOPLE | STAGECRAFT
THE LIGHT FANTASTIC
EOGHAN CARRICK LIGHTING DESIGNER AND DIRECTOR I N F I N I T Y at the Fringe, September 18-22
“I’m a huge sci-fi fan,” says Eoghan Carrick, whose play, with Nessa Matthews, I N F I N I T Y, sees a lone astronaut talking about time and space. “We’re aiming for a star-bound journey that looks at mental health and the stories we tell ourselves when we feel most alone. We hope it’s going to be beautiful and funny. Sci-fi lets us step into the unknown and ask questions in new ways.” Eoghan got into theatre in college, when he joined UCD’s Dramsoc during Fresher’s Week. “What started as a whim, ended up being four brilliant years.” He followed up with an MFA in directing from The Lir in Trinity College Dublin and has been working professionally ever
since, on shows from small to huge – such as Enda Walsh’s acclaimed The Second Violinist. Lighting not only shows you where to look on a stage, it also creates atmosphere, drama, tension. Eoghan describes the development of light and soundscapes as “organic. Here we were interested in magnifying the sense of darkness around the performer and audience.” His favourite thing about working in theatre is the collaborative approach to creation, bringing in more people, in this case an engineer, to realise the vision. “I honestly believe the work is better when everyone is feeding in and adding layers of detail and complexity to the picture.” Favourite place to experience theatre? I relish the opportunity to travel and see as much work as I can. What do you dream of? My dreams are all of making bigger, more diverse and collaborative work. It’s hard, as the funding situation for freelance artists is always precarious.
THE BEST DRESSED
COSTUME DESIGNER The Lost O’Casey at DTF, September 26 until October 13. The Mai, also at DTF, runs September 25-29 With two shows at the Dublin Theatre Festival, costume designer Niamh Lunny is in hot demand. The Lost O’Casey is with Anu Productions and The Abbey, and as Anu make immersive work, Niamh’s job “is about making the performers indistinguishable from the people around them, almost making them invisible to the audience”. She also uses costume to communicate. “I enjoy finding ways of sending a subliminal message through a piece of clothing or jewellery.” Meanwhile, The Mai is a multi-generational story of family, love and fate. “I have never wanted to be an actor,” says Niamh, “but very occasionally I read a play as exquisitely crafted as The Mai,
and it makes me want to deliver those lines!” After studying fashion at the Limerick School of Art and Design, Niamh found she missed the creative freedom of working on very different projects. “I was always interested in art, music, theatre and cinema, so moving towards costume design was a natural progression. I also love a deadline, and there is no greater deadline than an opening night.” Niamh starts with the script, “reading it as many times as necessary. I will also be looking at practical things, like what is the timespan of the piece, how many changes are required, if there are technical considerations like blood, rain or quick changes.” In fact, Niamh has special expertise in getting actors in, and out, of costumes in the blink of an eye. Favourite place to experience theatre? On a show that I have had nothing to do with and know very little about. What inspires you? Inspiration is everywhere, the possibilities are endless.
PEOPLE | STAGECRAFT
VINCENT BRIGHTLING FRONT OF HOUSE MANAGER AT THE GATE Hamlet starring Ruth Negga is at DTF, September 21 until October 27 “I’m the first and last point of contact for many of the audience,” says Vincent Brightling, who regular Gategoers will recognise as their stalwart front of house manager. Vincent got into theatre, “quite simply through the work of Belfast actress Stella McCusker. I saw her in Dear Sarah on television, then went to see her in Agnes of God three times at Andrew’s Lane Theatre and have never looked back.” Vincent describes the energy on a first night as “electric, frantic, everyone is a bundle of nerves. No one knows if all the hard work has created a great show or not, until you get it out of the rehearsal
room and onto a stage with an audience. It’s a gamble every time. It’s hugely exciting.” His favourite part of the evening is “probably the curtain call, because it’s different every night. Sometimes cast members worry that they haven’t engaged an audience, only to receive loud applause and even a standing ovation at the end. You just never know.” Working in theatre, says Vincent, brings huge variety “of plays, experiences, audiences and the changing atmosphere from night to night”. He also cherishes “the abundance of friendships you can grow with such an array of co-workers. I met my wife, Hilary, working in the theatre,” he says. Favourite place to experience theatre? I love the Viking Theatre in Clontarf. It’s a small operation but they’ve programmed brilliantly, cultivated a local audience and attracted audience and theatre companies from afar. What do you dream of? Longer holidays.
DESTINATION | THE BURREN
MAGNETIC DESOLATION The folks who live and work in Co Clareâ€™s stark Burren region turn out to be just as captivating as the unique landscape they call home. WORDS THOMAS BREATHNACH PHOTOGRAPHS MELANIE MULLAN
DESTINATION | THE BURREN
or many Irish people, the Burren conjures images of school field trips, Father Ted episodes and, above all, evocative limestone landscapes. Blanketing more than 500 square kilometres of northwest Co Clare, the region’s honeycombed karst wilderness, criss-crossed with a skein of iconic stonewalls, is the haunting anomaly of Ireland’s evergreen canvas. But, for all its stony setting, the Burren has got heart, too. And as I discover on a trip across the region, it’s home to a cast of pioneering characters intent on putting the region’s delights on the world map. If the historic spa town of Lisdoonvarna is billed as the gateway to the Burren, then a visit to the Burren Smokehouse (burrensmokehouse.com) here serves as the region’s perfect appetiser. Established in 1989 by Swedish native Birgitta Hedin-Curtin and her husband Peter Curtin, the outfit producing organic Irish smoked salmon has evolved from the family smorgasbord to serving Queen Elizabeth II. Birgitta is also a founding member of the Burren Food Trail (burren.ie), a patchwork of local artisanal purveyors who showcase the cream of the region’s produce. Her cold smoked salmon seasoned with dillisk seaweed and a deliciously sweet, hot smoked variety make a winning start. 54 |
Just next door in his Burren Brewery, the same Peter Curtin is busy tapping up his latest innovation: a gruit herb beer named Euphoria. “Just be warned,” Peter says, “Euphoria doesn’t have a cumulative effect. You’ll just remain consistently elated whatever measure you drink.” In keeping with ancient ale ancestry, the beer’s genesis saw Peter capturing wild yeast on a nearby fairy hill with the aid of a local herbalist. The result is a magical taste profile between kombucha and Tír na nÓg.
Previous pages, glorious views at Flaggy Shore. Clockwise from top left, Birgitta Hedin-Curtin of the Burren Smokehouse; you always find a view worth stopping for in north-west Co Clare; creative displays by Burren College of Art students.
New Store at 114 Grafton Street Now Open 37–38 Nassau Street, Dublin City Centre · Dublin Airport Terminal 1 · Belfast City Airport Tax Free Shopping for non EU customers
DESTINATION | THE BURREN
Though the Burren is sparsely settled, it’s not long until I cross paths with Peter’s colleague, Lisa Guinan. She’s a naturopath who runs Irish Herbal Roots (irishherbalroots.ie), which takes visitors on fascinating flora trails across the region’s boreens and byroads. I join her above Doolin village, where we unearth the health benefits of everything from wild meadowsweet to honeysuckle blooms. It seems our native hedgerows are an apotheker’s delight when it comes to plants and I’m rightly thrilled seeking them out. “The body actually releases similar dopamine to shopping when foraging,” explains Lisa. “Finding a plant can have the same buzz as bargain hunting!” As my journey continues northwards, the road winds through spectacular hairpin bends above Ballyvaughan. It’s little surprise that this Burren landscape, sometime blissfully bleak, sometimes redolent of the parched Croatian coast, has been inspiring Irish minds for years. Seamus Heaney wrote that the region can “catch the heart off guard and blow it open” and The Burren College of Art (burrencollege.ie) is where a next generation of creatives are flocking. The stumble-upon oasis is where resident artists study in a heavenly campus, while 56 |
visitors can enjoy its tea rooms, castle and a scenic nature trail, which meanders high above the coastline. That coastline is home to some of Ireland’s finest seafood and in the harbourside hamlet of Newquay, I wander into the Red Bank Food Company (redbankfoodco.com). Here, siblings Ciara and Lorcán O’Brien and father Gerry, have tapped into the trending niche of experiential travel and they invite travellers to join their irreverently punned “Shuck Off” workshops. “People can visit, try their hand at shucking freshly harvested oysters and enjoy them with a glass of wine,” explains Ciara. My efforts are soon rewarded, necking my own oyster with a delicious dash of samphire and fennel vinegar. Surely, there’s no greater elixir on the Wild Atlantic Way, than this? Leaving the postcard Flaggy Shore, I wander the coastal path along the shores of Lough Murra towards the most unlikely of rural outfits: a Gaelic gelateria. Linnalla Irish Ice Cream (linnallaicecream.ie) is the inspiration of the Fahy family, a dairyfarming clan whose herd of short-horned cattle graze on a diet so meadowy and rich, their milk could almost go untouched. But the Burren bounty is too great.
Clockwise from far left, welcoming interiors to match the equally welcoming service at Wild Honey Inn; wild meadowsweet can be found all over the region; stone walls punctuate the greenery; lobster fishing at Flaggy Shore; despite its perceived sparseness, the Burrenâ€™s karst landscape is the perfect environment for flora; garlic clams at Linnaneâ€™s; Christy Barry regularly welcomes guests for an evening of music at Doolin Music House; gelato a-go-go.
DESTINATION | THE BURREN
“We flavour with everything from sea buckthorn from the beach to vanilla from Tahiti”, explains bean an tí (woman of the house) Bríd Fahy. Many of the Burren’s enterprises are also members of the greencentric Burren Eco Network (burren.ie). And if the farm-to-fork movement is the nexus behind most, Diarmuid Neilan of Ekotree Knitwear (ekotree.ie) yields a different spin. “Ekotree is more ‘cone to customer’”, he reflects in his Doolin studio-store. He aims to de-kitsch the knitwear industry and bring it back to the buyer, by cutting out the middle-man and offering contemporary collections of sweaters and shawls. Another Burren pioneer is Brian O’Briain of Anam Coffee (anamcoffee.ie), the Burren’s first coffee roastery. While he operates out of the wilds of Kilfenora, the best spot to sample his divine brew is the charming café at the Burren Perfumery (burrenperfumery.com), a fragrant Shangri-La set in the heart of this desert karst scape. My soulful week of gallivanting across the Burren is about to reach a final crescendo. At Doolin Music House (doolinmusichouse.com), acclaimed local musician Christy Barry welcomes guests into his own home for soirées of craic and ceol, while his partner, artist Sheila Quinn, delights with wines and cheese. It’s a magical concept as Christy (flute), James Devitt (fiddle) and eleven-year-old apprentice Liam Kelly (pipes), whirl us through the riplets and triplets of a stripped-back trad session, bookended with tales of fadó. Only a fireball sunset over the Atlantic exalted the evening further. “It’s a powerful landscape, isn’t it”, says Sheila. “The Burren light, sounds and scents always draw you back.” Here’s to an encore.
Clockwise from top, Brian O’Briain of Anam Coffee with his loyal companion, Charley; morning views at Gregan’s Castle; there’s always a new furry friend to be made along the way.
Norah McGuinness Evening Flight Oil on canvas 51cm x 76cm Estimate €15,000 - €25,000
Paul Henry Connemara Cottages Oil on canvas 25cm x 30cm Estimate €20,000 - €30,000
Patrick Scott Silver Painting Tempera and Silver Leaf on canvas 122cm x 122cm Estimate €8000 - €12,000
IMPORTANT IRISH ART
Wednesday 26th September
Including works from the Collection of Anne and Brian Friel
Viewing Days: 21st - 26th September
FINE JEWELLERY & WATCHES
A Gem-Set Leaf Brooch By Andrew Grima Circa 1970 €2,500 - €3,500
Tuesday 18th September Viewing Days: 15th - 18th September
A Late 19th Century Sapphire and Diamond Pendant/Brooch €6,000 - 8,000
A Diamond Dress Ring, By Cartier ‘Nigeria’ Collection €5,000 - 7,000
26 St. Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 | + 353 1 676 0261 | www.adams.ie PRSA RegiStRAtion no. #001959
ILLUSTRATION BY FUCHSIA MACAREE
DESTINATION | THE BURREN
(Ennistymon, 065 707 1004; fallshotel.ie)
STAY COUNTRY CHARM A bolthole of country comfort in Lisdoonvarna, the 12 rooms at Wild Honey Inn woo with elegant luxury and traditional touches. Kate Sweeney and Aidan McGrath’s hostelry is the first pub in Ireland to be awarded a Michelin star. Sublime, unpretentious bistronomy (including a most memorable ribeye) make reservations here a hot commodity. Rooms from €140. (Lisdoonvarna, 065 707 4300; wildhoneyinn.com) HISTORIC Overlooking the cascading River Inagh and the higgledy-piggledy beauty of Ennistymon town, Falls Hotel and Spa has been checking in tourists since the 1930s. For the best views, opt for a restored Georgian room above the original vestibule. The Falls is family-friendly, operating kids’ clubs during school holidays, while resident donkeys offer extra appeal. Rooms from €140.
RUSTIC REFUGE Set between the Burren foothills and Galway Bay, Gregans Castle Hotel ranks as one of Ireland’s finest places to overnight. Beyond the gorgeous period rooms, a multitude of luxury nooks in which to settle, not least the stunning gardens, offer the epitome of Hibernian hygge. The hotel’s restaurant, with chef Robbie McCauley, may entice you to never leave. Pet friendly. Rooms from €245. (Ballyvaughan, 065 707 7005; gregans.ie)
EAT LOCAL FAVOURITE The original business behind Lisdoonvarna’s innovative Curtin family, The Roadside Tavern is imbued with history, character and divilment. Music and storytelling come as standard here while food highlights include a local Irish tapas board and a St Tola’s goat’s cheese starter. And the hot smoked salmon on a
bed of colcannon is a blissful homage to Ireland’s food bounty. (Lisdoonvarna, 065 707 4084; roadsidetavern.ie)
aficionados can sample a potent Burren Martini. (Doolin, 065 707 4111; hoteldoolin.ie)
SEAFOOD A touch of coastal Maine in north Clare, Linnane’s Lobster Bar is one of the most scenic seafood restaurants on the Wild Atlantic Way. Run by the enthusiastic duo of Mark Commins and Conor Graham, the menu net is cast as close as possible to its pier-side setting. Specialties include mussels marinara and garlic clams, harvested by Conor’s uncle. (Newquay, 065 707 8120; linnanesbar.com)
Ireland’s first interpretive centre, The Burren Centre in Kilfenora, is a wonderfully old-school guide to the region and a great first point of contact to get a sense of place. (Kilfenora, 065 708 8030; theburrencentre.ie)
TRAD DINING One of the region’s top live music venues, Fitzpatrick’s Bar at the Doolin Hotel also sates appetites with some of the finest fare in the region. The locally inspired menu runs the pub grub gauntlet, with everything from pork ribs to inventive vegan salads. For drinks, go for a local Dooliner lager, while craft cocktail
For a real taste of the Burren Food Trail, head to one of the organisation’s seasonal, long table events where you can dine and mingle with local suppliers. The one on September 14 will be in the dramatic setting of Doolin Caves. (Doolin, 087 960 3371; burren.ie) Pairing tourists with natives, Real CLARE Experiences by the Cultural Roadmapp startup offers a range of intimate visitor activities, from baking Irish soda bread to photographing the Burren’s lunar landscape. culturalroadmapp.com
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If you’re a music lover, the town of Woodstock is a place of pilgrimage, to follow in the footsteps of the greats such as Bob Dylan, Janis Joplin and David Bowie. But you won’t ﬁnd the site of the iconic festival here ... WORDS JOSEPH O’CONNOR PHOTOGRAPHS RICH GILLIGAN
DESTINATION | WOODSTOCK
he first thing any visitor needs to know about Woodstock is that it isn’t where Woodstock happened. The iconic 1969 rock festival took place some 100 kilometres away, on Max Yasgur’s 240-hectare dairy farm in Bethel, Upstate New York, but was named for the countercultural history of this exquisite little town in the Catskills that has long been kindly to the outsider and the rebel. Woodstock is a state of mind. The town’s bohemian story begins in the 19th century when painters and artists began to come here. Utopian settlers founded colonies of idealists, free spirits, non-conformists and general hangers-on, letting it all hang out. By the late 1960s, the town was attracting rock performers by the horde, hence the plan to hold the festival there. The permit was declined, hence the change of venue. But the ethos remained the same. The Native Americans of the area long regarded nearby Overlook Mountain as sacred. On a dusk-lit summer evening, you can sense why. The beauty is aweinspiring, suggestive of some other 64 |
immensity. There’s a Buddhist monastery there now, in the stillness. Tim Hardin, Janis Joplin and Van Morrison spent time in Woodstock. Bob Dylan and The Band recorded The Basement Tapes here, in a house called Big Pink. If you’re a music lover, Woodstock is a place of pilgrimage. These days, old-timey ice cream parlours, cafés and artisanal pizzerias rub shoulders with upscale jewellery stores, designer boutiques and art galleries. As with all American towns that see themselves as authentic and unspoilt, there are plenty of real-estate agencies. Down on Deming Street, there’s a private house on whose porch you can buy that afternoon’s fresh-baked cherry pies. Punks, goths and fashionistas wander by, skateboarders, rockers and mods. Wooden churches frown gently at the touristy goings-on. Music adorns every street. Having no train station, the town depends on the bus for public transport to Manhattan, some three hours away. It adds to the sense that you’re somewhere pleasingly off-grid, a place both charming and unique. The old clapboard hall,
Jam hot – Kevin Johnson, previous page, runs Timekeeper Drums, a weekly drum circle for the Woodstock community. Top, woodland living and, above, Kaaterskill Herb Exchange’s Bonnie Andretta and daughter.
DESTINATION | WOODSTOCK
*BASED ON RTN FLIGHTS IN PEAK PERIOD, EXCL. TAXES AND CHARGES
a onetime church, where Jimi Hendrix first rehearsed his demented, yearning-filled version of The Star-Spangled Banner, is now an artsy cinema. Woodstock resident Uma Thurman has been glimpsed in the wholefoods store with her mother. River-swimmers adore the plentiful local dipping pools and creeks. There’s a rock‘n’roll summer camp for children. The upstairs room in which Bob Dylan wrote Like a Rolling Stone looks down over the main thoroughfare, Tinker Street, beside Waterfall Way (perhaps the original of the “Lily Pond Lane” Dylan mentions in his beautiful song Sara from the album Desire). Indeed, Dylan is something of a secular patron-saint of the town, his inscrutable image everywhere, and many locals have a story of him. A lovely 1969 photograph of him and his toddler son standing in the porch of a local bakery still adorns that bakery. The main road into town is Levon Helm Boulevard, named for the widely adored local hero and leading member of The Band, whose studio, a converted barn, is still open to visitors and often hosts gigs
by major folk performers. The late David Bowie and his wife Iman had a residence here in Woodstock, and it was there that Bowie died, in January 2016, part of the pantheon of the town’s rock royalty. Locals tell you that he exercised at a nearby gym, drank (non-alcoholic beer) in a couple of the town’s bars and introduced himself to his new neighbours with a shy handshake and a quietly selfdeprecatory “Hi, I’m David”. If Woodstock is aware of its remarkable place in the history of 20th century popular music, it doesn’t hit you over the head with it. Yes, you can find stores that will sell you a souvenir T-shirt or psychedelia poster but they are far fewer than you might imagine. The Golden Notebook (29 Tinker Street; goldennotebook.indielite.org), the well-stocked village bookstore, has a fascinating section on music, of course, but contemporary fiction, poetry and politics feature strongly, as do regular readings from visiting authors from the USA and abroad. Something of the hippie spirit survives in the weekly “drum-along” that happens in the town’s main square on a Sunday afternoon and
Opposite page, clockwise from top left, vintage posters celebrate and perpetuate the local lore; Jojo Ans of Shop Little House; good libations; quirky wares at Shop Little House; try to keep your feet dry around Overlook Mountain. Top, hugs up at Garden Café and, above, martial unity on the lawns.
Fly return to NEWARK, NJ for 40,000 Avios points. Remember, if you don’t have enough points to fly to where you want to go, you can use those that you have and pay the rest in cash.*
DESTINATION | WOODSTOCK
Like a prayer – above, Upstate Films movie theatre, on Tinker Street, occupies the church where Hendrix rehearsed The Star-Spangled Banner. Below left, moss carpets a fallen tree, and below right, ubiquitous tie-dye.
in the electric-guitar sculptures that stand on the sidewalk outside many local businesses. But, quaintly for the town that gave anarchic 1960s Dropout Rock its trade name, there is a 10pm noise curfew. Singing for the revolution is all very well but Woodstock has to get up for work in the morning. For all that, the town still boasts a punchy and eclectic music scene, ranging from live blues, reggae, jazz, folk and punk to the most beautiful, smaller classical music venue I have ever experienced, the Maverick Concert Hall (120 Maverick Road; maverickconcerts. org). A summer chamber-music festival (until September) in this wonderful little, chapel-like wooden building, which stands in a forest clearing just outside the town, regularly hosts artists of international stature, at a tenth of the price and a great deal more intimacy than would be available in any city. To hear a piano sonata in its hallowed stillness as the rain falls on the leaves outside is a magically unforgettable experience. Hiking, kayaking and birdwatching opportunities abound. Deer wander the clearings and meadows at the back of the town’s houses. At night owls skim the river, as you hear guitars in the distance, perhaps the next generation of Dylans and Joplins doing their thing, or just another awestruck kid, playing to the starlight, in the town where Greats walked in the shadow of the mountain and beautiful things were made. There’s specialness in Woodstock, something healing and replenishing, a beauty that is blowing in the wind. Joseph O’Connor’s novels include Star of the Sea and Ghost Light. His next, Shadowplay, will be published in 2019. He is McCourt professor of creative writing at the University of Limerick.
A German/Irish school with a European culture and spirit for pupils aged 4-18
St. Kilian’s German School is located on an expansive campus in south Dublin. We welcome children of all nationalities, cultures and religions. Pupils learn German from Kindergarten (Junior Infants) up to Leaving Certificate in a diverse and inclusive environment. Our approach combines the best of the Irish and German education. Knowledge of German is not a requirement to enrol at St. Kilian’s.
Come and visit our school on Saturday 6th October 10am-12pm to meet our teachers and students and to see our campus.
St. Kilian’s Deutsche Schule Dublin/Eurocampus Roebuck Road, Clonskeagh, Dublin D14 P7F2 T +353 (0)1 288 3323 E email@example.com www.kilians.com
DESTINATION | WOODSTOCK
WOODSTOCK ESSENTIALS namesake. Guests may borrow from the vinyl record library and take a disc to their rooms. Fun, unpredictable, zesty. Rooms from $239. (320 Maverick Road, +1 845 684 5422; thehoteldylan.com). ATMOSPHERIC Twin Gables has an arresting, something of the Bates Motel about its appearance, but will appeal to David Lynch fans and others for its delightful welcome. On Woodstock’s main street, it is immensely popular with visitors. Booking well in advance is advised. Rooms from $95 (single) and $124 (double). (73 Tinker Street, +1 845 679 9479; twingableswoodstockny.com).
EAT SLEEP FOLKSY The Woodstock Inn at the Millstream nestles in a forest copse by the gentle local river. The emphasis is on old world hospitality and love of nature. Rooms from $169. (48 Tannery Brook Road, +1 845 679 8211; woodstock-inn-ny.com). FUNKY Close to Route 28 for Manhattan, across from a smart local gym, Hotel Dylan has all the low-lidded cool of its now septuagenarian
SAUCY Hickory is an old-time smokedbarbecue place in nearby Kingston that is not for the fainthearted. At other restaurants, they give you a napkin. Here it’s a towel. Badass and madcap, it’s the funnest family night out in Woodstock. (743 NY-28, Kingston, +1 845 338 2424; hickoryrestaurant.com).
SMART TIPS GETTING THERE Woodstock is an easy two-hour drive from Newark or JFK. There is no train station in the town but Amtrak from Manhattan serves Rhinecliff-Kingston station some 20 minutes away by taxi. The coach journey from Manhattan to Woodstock takes about three hours. trailwaysny.com
HEALTHFUL Cucina offers Italian food of remarkable quality at competitive prices, in a beautifully converted, yellow wooden farmhouse. (109 Mill Hill Road, +1 845 679 9800; cucinawoodstock.com) GRACIOUS The Garden Café is a fabulous vegan restaurant using no preservatives, chemicals, trans fats or genetically engineered products. Memorable and sumptuously tasty meals, snacks and juices. (6 Old Forge Road, +1 845 679 3600; thegardencafewoodstock.com)
BIG DEEP This is the most beautiful of the several river-swimming sites in Woodstock. Free admission, free parking, you stroll a few hundred yards into the sun-dappled pine forest and come to a long, gorgeous pool of clear, clean, mirror-surfaced water glinting like something out of a fairy tale. Breathtaking and unmissable. Big Deep is on NY-212 (GPS coordinates are 42.037238,-74.099532). There is no address or sign, but drivers or walkers should make for the evocatively named Casablanca Lane and turn right.
Top left, no room at the inn at the popular Twin Gables. Above, “clean” eats at The Garden Café and, left, front porch finery at Cucina.
SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to NEWARK, NJ and NEW YORK, JFK daily.
10 BEST CYCLING CITIES
Cycling is free, healthy, eco-friendly and it skips traffic. Yvonne Gordon finds the best cities to explore on two wheels.
AMSTERDAM THE NETHERLANDS
With 760 kilometres of bike paths and bike lanes, mostly flat terrain (apart from the odd canal bridge) and more bikes than people, Amsterdam is such a cycling-friendly city that half of all journeys there are said to take place by bike. Amsterdammers carry everything on their bikes â€“ expect to see kids, pets, furniture â€“ and even the king is known to cycle around. There are plenty of bike-rental spots in the city and up to 200,000 bike racks: just make sure to remember where you park yours ...
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Amsterdam up to four times daily and from Cork ten times per week.
SMART EDIT | CYCLING CITIES
If the weather is good in Paris, cycling can be a nicer way to explore than taking a bus, car or metro. The city can be busy with traffic – but, like many European capitals, the network of dedicated cycle lanes is expanding. For short hops, check out the excellent bike rental scheme, Vélib. If you’re there on a Friday night, turn up for the free bike tour starting at 10pm from Hotel de Ville, a lovely way to see the City of Lights at night.
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Paris four times daily, and from Cork daily.
Munich regards itself as Germany’s cycling capital, with around 80 per cent of the population owning a bike. There are even dedicated bicycle streets, Fahrradstrassen, where bikes can use the whole road width and vehicles can’t exceed 30km/h. There’s a scheme where you can call up to rent a bike and some of the trails to the city’s surrounds will take you to castles, parks, lakes and rivers.
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Munich twice daily.
WASHINGTON DC USA Like any major US city, traffic in DC can be busy but there are dedicated cycling lanes, the city is mostly flat and there’s a good bikeshare scheme. For longer trips, rent a bike and hit a dedicated cycling trail for the day. The Mount Vernon trail runs 27 kilometres from Roosevelt Island along the Potomac River to Mount Vernon, George Washington’s estate, or for a shaded route on a hot summer’s day, try Beach Drive (closed to vehicles at weekends), which takes you through forest and Rock Creek Park.
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Washington DC daily.
BORDEAUX FRANCE Once voted the fourth most bike-friendly city in the world, Bordeaux has 450 beautiful bike trails to explore. You can choose from flat to hilly, uphill and downhill, short and long, and even the best routes for road bikes, mountain bikes, city bikes and e-bikes. Being at the hub of the wine region, one of the best parts about planning your cycle is selecting the perfect bottle of wine to take along for your picnic.
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Bordeaux up to nine times per week.
BARCELONA SPAIN Cycling is a great way to explore this city, which is mostly flat and enjoys good weather – and many of the city’s wide boulevards have dedicated cycle lanes. There are lots of bike rental shops near the port and beach, so you can choose whether to plan a tour of famous Antoni Gaudí sights such as the Sagrada Família or check out routes like the Ciutat Vella – a gentle, nine-kilometre cycle that will take you past monuments, parks and beaches.
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Barcelona twice daily, and from Cork four times per week.
BERLIN GERMANY Wide streets, flat terrain, bike paths built into the pavements and plenty of bike parking make Berlin a cycling-friendly city. You’re even allowed to take your bike on S-Bahn and U-Bahn trains and trams and on night buses (with a special bike ticket); cycling through parks is permitted too. There’s a good city bike rental scheme or check out BikeSurf in Berlin, a free bikesharing project that operates on a donation basis.
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Berlin twice daily.
SMART EDIT | CYCLING CITIES
CHICAGO USA With a relatively small city centre, lots of protected bike lanes, some excellent bike paths (such as the Lakefront Trail, which stretches for 29 kilometres), and more in development, Chicago is a cyclefriendly city during the summer and autumn. For a short trip, rent one of the city’s Divvy bikes – top-notch cycles include going north of the city to Lincoln Park Zoo, or south along the lakefront to the Museum Campus and planetarium.
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Chicago twice daily.
SAN FRANCISCO USA
Okay, so the city does have a few hills but cycling in San Francisco has become more popular in recent years, thanks to an expanding infrastructure. And for visitors, what could be a more iconic experience than cycling across the Golden Gate Bridge? Allow an hour or two for the 13-kilometre trip from Fisherman’s Wharf (where there are plenty of bike rental shops) to Sausalito, and either cycle back or take the ferry back to the city and admire the bridge from the water.
Move over waltzing – cycling is the new graceful way to move in Vienna. Whether you cycle along the River Danube bike route or explore the sightseeing bicycle path that circles the main attractions such as the Opera and Parliament in the heart of the city, Vienna is well set up for exploring on two wheels. The city has 1,300 kilometres of bike paths and an excellent, low-cost, public bike rental scheme. There are even bike-friendly hotels with bike parking, cycling information and bike repair.
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to San Francisco daily.
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Vienna nine times per week.
STYLE ETERNAL Milan is always in fashion, but swap the ubiquitous global brands for a rummage around the city’s independent boutiques oﬀbeat and its delectably oﬀ beat charm. WORDS MARIE KELLY PHOTOGRAPHS PATRICK BOLGER
DESTINATION | MILAN
ike the city itself, Milanese style is full of idiosyncrasies. It may lack the calm consideration of Parisian chic, the experimental appeal of London cool, but it makes up for both with an energy and personality that’s arguably more intriguing; peoplewatching in Milan never becomes a predictable pastime. Unless, of course, you’re interested in menswear, in which case the pin-sharp navy suits, perfectly polished shoes and immaculately tailored shirts are a delightfully welcome certainty. Of course you can travel to Milan and, as with any other city, shop Prada, Versace, Armani, Dolce & Gabbana and Louis Vuitton. Several of these luxury labels are housed in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II (ingalleria.com), a glassvaulted, mosaic-floored shopping arcade built in the 19th century. It’s worth a visit whether you intend to shop or not; standing in front of the window displays is like viewing art in a gallery. But go there early if you want to experience the grandeur and spectacle of this very “unshopping mall-like” space, because by mid-morning it is populated with tourists
taking selfies. The white table-clothed eateries nearby aren’t the tourist traps you might imagine. An aperitif and a bowl of pasta at Da Regina 1985 (daregina1985.com) is not cheap (nothing is in Milan) but the food is wonderful and the tables surrounding mine were busy with Italian businessmen and Milanese ladies lunching; natives you might say. Nearby sits “the golden triangle” of Via Montenapoleone, Via della Spiga and Via Manzoni, a hotbed of premium fashion labels, destination restaurants and luxury hotels. Everything here is Five Star (capitals intended). But as with any city I’ve shopped in, the greatest treasures are hidden. Leave the business of tourism behind and head across the Piazza del Duomo, past the lengthy lines of visitors queuing for entry into the city’s sky-scraping 14th-century cathedral, in
Previous pages, left, Gloria Stringhini Cibold of FIGUS boutique and, right, a gelato van outside Milan’s 14th-century cathedral. Clockwise from above, whatever the weather, Milanese women always look chic; the fountain at the entrance to Castello Sforzesco; elaborate shoes for sale at Minuit.
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VIKING & MEDIEVAL DUBLIN VIKING DUBLIN
HISTORY ST MICHAEL’S HUNTERS TOWER
St Michael’s Hill, Christ Church, Dublin 8 www.dublinia.ie
Clockwise from above, the beautiful, light-filled store, As Sustainable as Possible; even the fruit and vegetable stalls in Milan are beautiful; an espresso at the Senato Hotel; Anna at ebarrito, which stocks an eclectic mix of handmade leather handbags and shoes. Opposite, the glass-vaulted ceiling of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II; Italian men exude a suave sophistication; cream of vegetables with cuttlefish at Bistro Aimo e Nadia.
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DESTINATION | MILAN
the shadow of which each day sits a humble gelato van – two Italian cultural counterpoints – beyond Le Scala Opera House and head along Corso Garibaldi, where you’ll begin to spot some Milanese treasures. Youki (youkidesign.com) is a young Milanese brand that designs colourful modular and multifunctional bags (backpacks convert into shoulder bags and handbags into mini backpacks). A few doors down is Benheart (benheart.it), a bohemian-style store, which sells a curated selection of leather bags, jackets and shoes for men and women. The smell of genuine Italian leather when you walk through the door is as intoxicating as the smell of seaweed by a beach. You simply want to inhale it. Further along, My Fragrances (myfragrances.it) is an exquisite store that offers a multi-sensory experience. From the bespoke wooden shelving units and cotton linen scarves in the softest blanket shades, to the aromatherapy oils and natural saltbased scrubs available to try and buy, everything is textured and tactile. This is a store in which to linger and enjoy a reprieve from the humidity
and hustle of the streets outside. This stretch of Corso Garibaldi has a grubby appeal; there’s nothing manicured about the sidewalks or its shoppers. Instead, both exude a laissez-faire, take me or leave me attitude that’s quite endearing. Despite being a fashion capital, Milanese women don’t seem bothered much by trends or labels. They embody a kind of easy glamour and casual confidence that’s all their own. However, the diversity of style among them is undoubtedly a reflection of the breadth of independent shopping available here. From the street-style aesthetic of Youki and Benheart to the considered and conscious edit at the light-filled, open-plan store asap (As Sustainable as Possible; asaplab. it) and under-the-radar Italian and Spanish labels, such as Nina Leuca, Attic and Barn and Diego, in the beautifully edited boutique Minuit (minuitmilano.com), Milan has a shopping scene that offers a road map to a very distinctive sense of style. Make Navigli, the city’s canal area, a priority. It’s vibrant, eclectic and full of interesting places to eat, drink and shop. The walk there from Piazza del Duomo offers as much interest as the destination, though. Head along AERLINGUS.COM |
DESTINATION | MILAN
Via Torino through Corso di Porta Ticinese where you’ll find pop-up shoe and handbag boutique ebarrito (it will be there until October; ebarrito.com). It has as its mission statement “re-thinking fashion” because it uses recycled materials to create one-off pieces that are defined by an imaginative flair rather than a luxury logo (I challenge you to go there and not walk away with something). Dress You Can (dressyoucan.com) is a vintage store with rails of fabulous gowns by Vionnet and Valentino. Posted on the window of the store is a montage of Polaroids (how fitting for a vintage store?) taken by happy customers wearing their pre-loved pieces. Meanwhile, bijou jewellery store Tom (tommilano.it) sells contemporary pieces – some of which are handmade in the store there and then – that are fresh and exciting. The sartorial excesses that define many of the big-name Italian brands (Dolce & Gabbana, Versace, Moschino) simply aren’t evident on these off-the-beaten-track shopping streets. Milanese street style is not “tinselly”; it has more warmth and sophistication than that. Nobody epitomises this more than Rossana Orlandi, the 75-year-old doyenne of Italian design whom I met by chance outside her gallery and concept store at Via Matteo Bandello (rossanaorlandi.com). A converted tie factory, the unassuming entrance (it feels a little like you’re trespassing on private property at first) belies the warren of rooms filled with cutting-edge contemporary design – handpicked by Orlandi – inside. Pint sized, with unapologetically white hair pulled tidily back into a bun and wearing boyish separates, a statement necklace and her signature oversized white-framed glasses, Orlandi is as fascinating to look at as she is to listen to. Though many people will tell you that the Piazza del Duomo is the beating heart of Milan, it was here in this incredible space listening to this oracle of style that Milan came alive for me. 84 |
Clockwise from top, Antonio Barbara at Benheart, where you can have a leather belt custom made; outside the La Scala opera house; a glimpse of the courtyard outside Rosanna Orlandi’s gallery.
DESTINATION | MILAN
MILAN ESSENTIALS EAT CONTEMPORARY Opened just five months ago, Bistro Aimo e Nadia sits next door to Galleria Rossana Orlandi and is a collaboration between the gallerist, restaurant owner Stefania Moroni and Michelin-starred chefs Alessandro Negrini and Fabio Pisani. Italian super-brand Etro worked with Orlandi on the interior so expect the explosion of print and colour you’ll be greeted by. The space is intimate, the food experimental and the service relaxed. (Via Matteo Bandello 14, +39 02 4802 6205; bistroaimoenadia.com) CHARMING Solferino offered everything I wanted from an Italian dining experience. The bijou space and career waiters have equal amounts of charm and character. The food is sublime, the recommended wine a perfect pairing, and the owner who mingles and chats to diners an endearing extra. If you’re looking for authentic Milanese food and atmosphere, Solferino delivers. (Via Castelfidardo 2, +39 02 2900 5748; ilsolferino.com) QUAINT A whisper away from one of the city’s tram stops, Ristorante Sant’Eustorgio a great place to sit outside and people-watch as locals get on and off these rather retro-
looking vehicles, while others make their own (very stylish) way on Italian Vespas. White linen napkins and tablecloths make what is casual dining feel a little more special. Try the saffron risotto for a sophisticated take on comfort food. (Piazza Sant’Eustorgio 6; +39 02 5810 1396)
STAY MODERN Only steps from the Piazza del Domo and the Scala Opera House, the industrialdesign STRAF Hotel & Bar is for those who like to be in the thick of it. The bar attracts a young, hip crowd, which spills out onto the otherwise quiet side street most evenings. If you like traditional upholstery and textured interiors, the concrete and oxidised brass decor might not appeal. The bedrooms are small and minimalist but cool (literally and figuratively) and comfortable. Rooms from €246. (Via San Raffaele 3, +39 02 805 081; straf.it) BOUTIQUE Once a private residence but now a 43-room boutique hotel, Senato Hotel is only a short walk from the Montenapoleone fashion district. Yet it feels removed from the craziness of crowded squares and shopping malls. The interior is clean and contemporary but not cold or austere, while a pretty courtyard garden
lush with hydrangea and ivy is the perfect place to sip an aperitif or a morning coffee. Rooms from €268. (Via Senato 22, +39 02 781 236; senatohotelmilano.it) BUSINESS In an unknown city, there’s comfort in returning to familiar surroundings at the end of the day. At Milan’s Radisson Blu, as with every other arm of this hotel chain, you’re assured helpful service, comfortable rooms and a very decent dinner if you choose to eat there. Located in the Certosa district, which is a hub for conventions and trade fairs, it’s the perfect business trip pit-stop. Plus, it’s only a 30-minute walk from San Siro Stadium, the home of AC and Inter Milan and one of Europe’s biggest and most impressive soccer stadiums if you fancy absorbing that facet of the city’s obsessions. (Via Villapizzone 24, +39 02 363 1 888; radissonblu.com)
SMART TIPS If you can arrange your stay around the last Sunday of the month, then you’ll have the opportunity to explore one of Milan’s most famous markets, Mercatino di antiquariato, in the Navigli area. More than 400 stalls stretch along the oldest canal in Milan selling fashion, jewellery, homewares, books and curiosities. Even better, I’m told stall owners expect customers to haggle! For something completely different, visit the incredible concept store 10 Corso Como, which houses fashion, design, music, art, food and culture. It’s described by founder Carla Sozzani – a former fashion editor and publisher – as a “living magazine”. Brands stocked there include directional labels such as Maison Martin, Azzedine Alaïa and Comme des Garçons. (Corso Como 10; 10corsocomo.com)
Chefs at Bistro Aimo e Nadia put the finishing touches to one of their exquisite dishes.
SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to MILAN LINATE twice daily, and from Dublin to MILAN MALPENSA daily.
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standard San Francisco has gained infamy as America’s most expensive city after Hamilton, Bermuda – but don’t let that put you off its wealth of attractions. PHOTOGRAPHS KIMBERLEY HASSELBRINK
DESTINATION | SAN FRANCISCO
2 1 Opening pages, arresting vistas from Dolores Park. 1 Sunny strolls along the Embarcadero, which is pierced by the Bay Bridge. 2 Kantine chef Nichole Accettola, who earned her culinary stripes in Copenhagen and now heads a Scandi-inspired spot on Market Street. 3 Spoiled for choice at Douglas CafĂŠ.
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4 Clean lines at The Perennial, a restaurant that prides itself on its “clean” and green philosophy. 5 Dill-spangled smorrebrod at Kantine. 6 At your service – Charles Bililies, CEO and founder of the Greek hotspot Souvla. 5 7 Souvla is handy for a healthy takeout ... but nothing beats lingering over a chilled glass of rosé.
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8 The Golden Gate Bridge shrouded in SF’s infamous fog. 9 Scandi desirables at Kantine. 10 Squeezable bread at Douglas Café. 11 The Perennial’s chef de cuisine, Michael Andreatta. 12 Graze away at the famous Ferry
Building, whose stallholders showcase regional food and drinks produce.
The San Francisco Ferry Building dates back to 1898, when it welcomed train and then boat travellers.
DESTINATION | SAN FRANCISCO
SAN FRANCISCO ESSENTIALS STAY 13
STYLISH Designer Kelly Wearstler is known for taking interiors to the next level and her approach to the Proper Hotel is no different; it’s all about bright, bold and warm-toned prints to help make guests feel instantly at home. Make sure to make a reservation for dinner at Villon restaurant followed by a tipple at the extremely popular rooftop bar, Charmaine’s. Rooms from $387. (1100 Market Street, +1 415 735 7777; properhotel.com) SERENE Unwinding isn’t the first thing that comes to mind when you think of bustling San Francisco, but at Hotel Vitale you can do just that. The rooftop Spa Vitale may be small, with
just three treatment rooms, but guests can enjoy the ultimate untwine with a signature bathtub ritual in the open-air bamboo garden. Sweeping views of the Bay from the Americano Bar and Restaurant are also USPs. Rooms from $305. (8 Mission Street, +1 415 278 3700; jdvhotels.com)
a restaurant in Mexico City. Everything here is authentic and homemade, and the tequila menu is extensive – hiccup. You can’t make a reservation here but the melt-in-your-mouth carnitas and tasty margaritas make it worth the wait. (306 Broderick Street, +1 415 437 0303; nopalitosf.com)
EXCLUSIVE A members-only club, The Battery gives registered overnight guests an all-access pass to its bars, restaurants, secret nooks and crannies, and some of the finest service in town. Rooms are understated yet luxurious, with exposed brick walls, floor-toceiling windows and, an added bonus, gorgeous brown leather Bluetooth headphones – swoon. Rooms from $745. (717 Battery Street, +1 415 230 8000; thebatterysf.com)
ON THE HOOF The team at Souvla take the humble gyro and make it a must-eat. With just four options to choose from – chicken, pork, lamb and veg – along with four sides and four sweet options, the Greek restaurant’s concise menu means that each item is expertly prepared, making eating on-the-go an absolute pleasure. (The Mission, Valencia Street, +1 415 400 5458; souvla.com)
EAT ECO Duo Anthony Myint and Karen Leibowitz set themselves a challenge to create “the most environmental” restaurant, which has since set an example of how “green” the industry can be. Reclaimed wood and recycled tiles set the tone at The Perennial, while the menu uses ingredients that are mindfully sourced to ensure that ecology and carbon-reduced farming are prioritised. (59 Ninth Street, +1 415 500 7788; theperennialsf.com)
CORNER SHOP As well as serving coffee and homemade pastries, Douglas Café is a local’s favourite for wine, cheese and other snacks and staples. The space has a couple of bar stools for sitting down and savouring breakfast and, for later in the day, there is an excellent wine list. (1598 Sanchez Street, +1 510 918 5799; douglassf.com)
FLAVOURSOME Eat at Nopalito and you could be misled into believing you’re sitting at
SMART TIPS BART rail is an inexpensive and reliable way to get from the airport to Downtown, departing up to four times per hour. The fair is estimated on the distance travelled but a return trip usually costs around $20. bart.gov
15 13 Tartare piece – fine dining at The Perennial. 14 A Perennial cocktail, which you wish would last forever ... 15 People-watching from Souvla on Valencia.
SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to SAN FRANCISCO daily.
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Splendid fit stops for fitness fiends … Aoife Carrigy dons her Lycra.
USA FOR YUMMY YOGIS
A 90-minute drive north of Los Angeles delivers you to another world – or energetic dimension, according to advocates of the Ojai vortex’s mystical powers. The spa at Ojai Valley Inn channels this spiritual reputation with a smorgasbord of yoga
styles and tripped-out therapies such as Somadome (immersive meditation pods that marry LED color therapy with binaural beat meditation and crystalline tiles) or Kuyam (a body mask of desert clay infused with essential oils, combined with sauna-style heat and inhalation therapy). ojaivalleyinn.com
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Los Angeles daily.
SMART EDIT | FIT TRIPS
GERMANY FOR DIE-HARDS
Emperors, oligarchs, WAGs and glitterati: they’ve all retreated to Baden-Baden for its unique spatown blend of healing waters and jet-set glamour. In one of the historic resort’s most opulent mansions, Villa Stéphanie’s cutting-edge medical spa team dispatch bespoke holistic treatments with utmost discretion. If the Black Forest is a stretch, London’s The Lanesborough hotel hosts Villa Stéphanie’s Dr König (September 23-26) for an exclusive The Kings Way detox and weight-loss residency. oetkercollection.com
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Stuttgart five times per week.
DUNNE & CRESCENZI
Italian restaurant & wine bar | Importers of fine Italian wines DUNNE & CRESCENZI The Mothership 14-16 South Frederick Street. Dublin 2 Tel: +353 (1) 675 9892 also at: 11 Seafort Avenue, Sandymount, Dublin 4 Tel: +353 (1) 667 3252 Blackrock Shopping Centre Tel: +353 (1) 525 2012
L’OFFICINA Dundrum Town Centre Tel: +353 (1) 216 6764 Kildare Retail Village Tel: +353 045 535850
Proud to be part of the McKenna Top 100 Restaurant Guide
Vi c to r i a n H e r i ta g e P u b Whether you are travelling long haul or short haul a visit to The Long Hall is a must while in Ireland. Established in 1766 and celebrating 250 years in business this shrine to antiquity is one of Dublin’s oldest, most beautiful and best loved pubs, abundant in traditional charm and exuding genuine Victorian originality. Attentive Bartenders, a warm welcome and a friendly atmosphere await you. Renowned amongst locals for great Guinness.
Try our Limited Edition Powers “The Long Hall” Single Cask Release. Cask No.11791 was bottled especially for us to mark our 250th Anniversary.
OPEN DAILY AT 12 NOON 51 South Great Georges Street, Dublin 2 | Tel: +353 1 475 1590
SMART EDIT | FIT TRIPS
IRELAND FOR STAYCATIONERS
As the face of RTÉ’s Operation Transformation, Kathryn Thomas appreciates the challenges and rewards of a physical reboot. Her Pure Results Bootcamp offers action-packed schedules of boxercise, circuit training and kettlebells, plus yoga, cooking demos and life coaching to kickstart weight-loss. Choose a weekend retreat in The Johnstown Estate, Co Meath (September 8-9, or October 13-14) or seven days in Co Mayo’s Mount Falcon (September 21-28, or October 26 to November 2). pureresultsbootcamp.com
UK FOR TWINKLE TOES
Strictly one for fans of cheesy glam: a weekend break in South Wales’s five-star Celtic Manor Resort Hotel (April 26-28) with Anton du Beke, Erin Boag and more glitz-tastic stars of BBC’s runaway success Strictly Come Dancing, which returns for another winter of high-stakes drama and low-cut necklines. Dates run from March through summer in various venues but book out fast, so you’d better sashay quicktime if you want to cha-cha-cha. donaheys.co.uk
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Bristol up to
four times daily.
the ca stle | the lodge | the old stable mews
A rural retreat in the heart of Ireland…
estled on 1,000 acres of undulating Irish countryside, dotted with ancient woodland and glittering lakes, Castle Leslie Estate is one of the last great Irish estates still in the hands of its founding family. Steeped in history, full of character and charm, it is the ultimate Irish rural escape.
Only 80 minutes from Dublin and 60 minutes Only 80 minutes from Dublin and 60 minutes from Belfast, Castle Leslie Estate boasts a variety from Belfast, Castle Leslie Estate boasts a variety of accommodation and activities to suit all tastes. of accommodation and activities to suit all tastes. The Castle, at the heart of the Estate, offers original The Castle, at the heart of the Estate, offers interiors with old style hospitality and provides original interiors with old style hospitality and a complete respite from the world. provides a complete respite from the world. The Lodge is the country house style boutique hotel Thethe Lodge is the social hub of the Estate, on Estate which houses Conor’s Bar, the 2 AA a country house boutique hotel brings and the Rosette award winning Snafflesthat Restaurant locals and guests together in an atmosphere spa called The Victorian Treatment Rooms. of conviviality and 29 comfort. The and Old Stable Mews of It currently has bedrooms in the summer and Village Cottages are the perfect spot for 2019 there’ll be even more bedrooms. A beautiful groups that want hotel living new extension willthe seeconvenience a further 18ofexquisite new combined with private luxury home rental. guest bedrooms added.
The Old Stable Mews and Village Cottages are the Castle Leslie Estate offers an idyllic setting for perfect spot for groups that want the convenience outdoor activity and adventure. Explore the of hotel living combined with private luxury Estate on horseback, enjoy some of Ireland’s home rental. finest coarse fishing, take in a movie at our Castle Leslie Estate offers an idyllic setting for private cinema, luxuriate in a relaxing massage outdoor activity and adventure. Explore the Estate in the Victorian treatment rooms, exhilarate on horseback, enjoy some of Ireland’s finest coarse in afishing, abundance orcinema, just take of in outdoor a movie adventures, at our private borrow a pairinofawellies from our boot room luxuriate relaxing massage in the Victorian andTreatment go for a stroll on our 1,000 acres just Rooms, exhilarate in an– abundance of some of the adventures, choices that or await in this outdoor justyou borrow a pair of wellies hidden of Ireland. fromcorner our boot room and go for a stroll on our 1,000 acres – just some of the choices that await you in this hidden corner of Ireland.
An Overnight Escape to include a wonderful 5 course dinner in the 2 AA Rosette award winning Snaffles Restaurant and a hearty full Irish breakfast starts from €140 per person sharing.
Castle Leslie Estate, Glaslough, Monaghan
t: + 353 47 88 100
SMART EDIT | FIT TRIPS
SPAIN FOR TRIATHLETES
Well-established on the triathlete circuit, Lanzarote’s Club La Santa hosts regular annual events such as the IRONMAN 70.3 (October 6) alongside weekly triathlon and duathlon races. Top-notch tri-training facilities – over 70 lanes in 50-metre pools, a salt water lagoon for open water swimming, running tracks and off-road routes, and Lanzarote’s uncrowded asphalt roads for cycling practice – also make it an ideal base for international training camps for triathletes of all levels from beginners up. clublasanta.com
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Lanzarote daily.
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United Nations Educational, Scientiﬁc and Cultural Organization
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T: +353 65 7086141 www.cliffsofmoher.ie
Burren and Cliffs of Moher UNESCO Global Geopark
DESTINATION | ROME
48 HOURS IN
ROME The many great reasons why the Eternal City never gets old, according to Elizabeth Heath.
DONʼT MISS … PHOTOGRAPHY The Eternal City exhibit in the Vittoriano monument presents Rome as it is and once was, as seen through the eyes of mostly British photographers. From the collections of the Royal Institute of British of Architects, images range from some of the earliest shots of the Colosseum to Rome’s contemporary urban landscapes. Until October 28. (The Vittoriano, Piazza Venezia, +39 06 871 5111; architecture.com/whats-on)
DRINK AT ... Top, Roma’s colossal Colosseum. Right, spiffing sips at The Gin Corner. Below, the palatial Palazzo Doria Pamphilj.
ALE & HEARTY There are more than 16 artisanal beers on tap at Ma Che Siete Venuti a Fà, a divey pub that set in motion the craft beer craze in Rome. The name loosely translates to “but what did you come here to do?” You came here to drink a pint, of course, and chill in this popular hangout that is Trastevere at its earthy best. (Via Benedetta 25, +39 06 6456 2046; football-pub.com)
BEST GRAZING Whether you’re on the hunt for offal (fresh tripe, anyone?), a leather handbag or more types of tomatoes than you knew existed, lively, colourful and authentic Mercato Testaccio has it. This is street food central, too, a great spot for snacking while you shop and people-watching in a real Roman neighbourhood. The supplì (deep-fried rice balls) at Food Box will make you weep with joy. (Via Beniamino Franklin; mercatoditestaccio.it)
SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to ROME twice daily.
JUST THE TONIC More than 100 types of gin are on offer at The Gin Corner, the stylish lobby bar of boutique-chic Hotel Adriano. At least a dozen varieties of mixers mean they’re not serving run-of-themill G&Ts. A hip barman shakes his martinis with panache, and there’s plenty on the menu for non-gin imbibers, too. (Via di Pallacorda 2, +39 06 688 02451; thegincorner.com)
NOBLE Escape the crush on Via del Corso and duck into Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, the over-the-top grand palace and art collection of a family descended from Popes. Now a private museum, works by Caravaggio, Bernini and Velázquez are among its many treasures. The audio tour is narrated by a personable Pamphilj prince who grew up roller-skating in the palace ballrooms. €12, includes audioguide. (Via del Corso 305, +39, 06 679 7323; doriapamphilj.it/roma)
VOYEURISTIC If Piazza della Madonna dei Monti is the living room of the Monti neighbourhood, then La Bottega del Caffè is its cosy sofa. Watch life go by in this slightly boho working-class area, and enjoy a full meal, an appetiser or just a coffee or a glass of wine on the year-round patio dining area. Open from early morning to the wee hours. (Piazza della Madonna dei Monti 5; +39 06 474 1578)
SLEEP AT ... VINTAGE Cue the Big Band music at Hotel Mediterraneo, an Art Deco beauty just a stone’s throw from Termini station. Once a haunt of WWII-era GIs, the hotel retains its vintage feel, and long-time, loyal staff members love it like it’s their own home. Tenth-floor suites have terraces with views of St Peter’s, and even the smallest rooms are good-sized. Rooms from €190. (Via Cavour 15, +39 06 488 4051; romehotelmediterraneo.it)
BUCKET LIST Blow the kids’ inheritance at Hassler Roma, the hallowed temple of pampered hospitality atop the Spanish Steps. A “hidden” cocktail bar is all Old Hollywood glamour, and there’s Michelin-starred dining at rooftop Imàgo. You’ve come this far, so splurge on a room overlooking the Spanish Steps. Rooms from €505 to much, much more. (Piazza Trinità dei Monti 6, +39 06 699 340; hotelhasslerroma.com)
WALKING DEAD Well, not really. But people have been walking around the site of the Inn at the Roman Forum for at least two millennia. Even though it would be plenty sweet without the ruins, this smart boutique hotel is built over an ancient cryptoporticus, or covered walkway, now a moody underground space guests can explore. Breakfast or cocktails on the roof terrace come with sweeping views of Rome’s iconic ruins. Rooms from €375. (Via degli Ibernesi 30, +39 06 6919 0970; theinnattheromanforum.com)
Clockwise from top right, eclectic feels at Inn at the Roman Forum; luxe vintage rooms at Hotel Mediterraneo; royal rooftop goals at the decadent Hassler Roma hotel; pizza pizzazz abounds in the Eternal City.
EAT AT ... SHARING, CARING Rome doesn’t really have an equivalent of Spanish tapas, but Assaggia (the word means “taste”) aims to change all that, with tasting menus featuring small bites of modern spins on classic “cucina Romana” dishes such as carbonara, polpette (meatballs) and fried courgette flowers. The setting is sleek and classy, there’s an enclosed garden, and the bar menu is loooonnnng. (Via Margutta 19, +39 06 9779 7980; assaggiaroma.com) ICE, BABY Picking a favourite gelato place in Rome is sort of like picking your favourite child – there’s so much to love about them all. Hole-in-the-wall Frigidarium has artisanal, creamy-dreamy fruit, chocolate and spice-infused flavours, and its location on one of the Centro Storico’s most vibrant streets is just the icing on the cake. Or maybe the sprinkles on the cone. (Via del Governo Vecchio 112, +39 334 995 1184; frigidariumgelateria.com) KNEADS MUST The pizza at Bonci Pizzarium may be non-denominational, but it wins loyal converts by the slice. It’s easy to eat really badly on the touristy streets near the Vatican Museums, so make the detour a few blocks east for a rectangle or two of this fluffy yet crunchy, heaven-wrapped-in-butcher-paper pizza from the maestro humbly known as the “Michelangelo of Pizza”. (Via della Meloria 43, +39 06 3974 5416; bonci.it)
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BRIMMING BOSTON Longtime business in Beantown fan, Gerry O’Shea, shines a light on the Massachusetts capital’s best bits.
A DAY IN THE LIFE Captain Rob Hempstead is the master of the largest cruise ship in the world, Royal Caribbean’s Symphony of the Seas.
HILTON BERLIN, ETC A glamorous retreat in the heart of Germany’s storied capital city along with new hotels in Seattle, Edinburgh and Paris.
SIX THINGS I’VE LEARNT Founder and chairperson of Blas na hÉireann, Artie Clifford shares his learnings and reveals his favourite places in Cork City.
city at the forefront of 18th-century revolution and 21st-century innovation, Boston has always taken pride in melding old with new. Its colonial-era buildings are shadowed by modern skyscrapers; 300-year-old alehouses border Wi-Fi-equipped parks and warehouses from an industrial heyday now brim with inspired entrepreneurs. Far down the list of largest US cities – its population is under 700,000 – Boston’s economic impact outshines its modest size. Thriving for decades as a global centre of finance and healthcare, the city is emerging as a hub of technology, boasting more than 30,000 high-tech jobs. Nowhere is this more evident than the booming Seaport District. Once a rickety stretch of fishing piers, the neighbourhood is now home to headquarters for GE and Reebok, thousands of new Amazon employees, and MassChallenge – one of the world’s most prolific startup accelerators. Business travellers can choose from a dozen modern hotels, each a short stroll downtown. An ever-expanding mix of restaurants and fitness studios, and easy access to the playground of New England keep Boston abuzz with young professionals. Today, millennials make up a third of its population – more than any other US city. Youthful, adaptive and enduringly innovative, these days there is no doubt Boston is focused on what’s next.
IMPRESS Chef Barbara Lynch has many successful restaurants but her flagship No.9 Park, right, might be the best for a memorable business dinner. Its unassuming entrance across from the Massachusetts State House shouldn’t distract from what’s inside – award-winning French and Italian-inspired cuisine served with impeccable service. (9 Park Street, +1 617 742 9991; no9park.com)
LIVELY Oysters are in no short supply in New England and Row 34 serves the region’s best. Popular with after-workers, its buoyant atmosphere fits perfectly within the dynamic Fort Point neighbourhood. Looking to share? The shellfish tower or striped bass ceviche make for a seafood experience as good as it gets. (383 Congress Street, +1 617 553 5900; row34.com)
CRACKIN’ GOOD Blink and you might miss James Hook & Co, a tiny shack serving all things lobster. In business for nearly 100 years, its famous rolls are served with mayonnaise and diced celery, a simple approach that keeps the focus where it should be – on the rich lobster meat. (440 Atlantic Avenue, +1 617 423 5501; jameshooklobster.com)
Massachusetts doesn’t only shine in the autumn – its capital is an all-year-round gem, says Gerry O’Shea.
ARRIVALS The short trip from Logan Airport downtown makes taxicabs and Ubers popular with business travellers but the Silver Line bus takes passengers to South Station – for free. Alternatively, Massport shuttles drop off at the MBTA Airport Station, where tickets can be purchased to any of the city’s subway stops. mbta.com WALK IT Often called “America’s Walking City”, Boston is a great place to wander from one business meeting to the next. The 70-kilometre Harborwalk bends along the city’s coastline, passing by dozens of parks, museums and even a handful of beaches. bostonharborwalk.org
SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to BOSTON twice daily, and from Shannon daily.
VIEWS Sleek and light-filled, accommodation at The Envoy Hotel comes complete with modern workspaces, floor-to-ceiling windows and views of Boston harbour and the city skyline. Feeling social? The expansive Lookout Rooftop bar is popular with both visitors and locals, mainly for its waterfront vistas. Rooms from $319. (70 Sleeper Street, +1 617 338 3030; theenvoyhotel.com)
HISTORIC Despite what its name suggests, The Liberty Hotel in Beacon Hill isn’t rooted in freedoms of any sort. Built in the mid-19th century as a county jail, the building was converted to a 300-room hotel in 2007. The hotel’s six bars and restaurants give guests the option of never having to stray far for nourishment. Rooms from $449. (215 Charles Street, +1 617 224 4000; libertyhotel.com)
LOCATION Hotel 140 is the perfect location for business travellers wary of urban bustle but still yearning for the full city experience. Located between Back Bay and the South End, reasonable rates ensure there’s money left to spend at Newbury Street boutiques. Rooms from $249. (140 Clarendon Street, +1 617 585 5600; hotel140.com)
As CEO and co-founder of Globoforce, Eric Mosley helps businesses adapt to the needs of today’s modern workforce. The Dublin native, author and HR pioneer has been in Boston 13 years and remains focused on putting the “human” back into human resources.
What makes doing business in Boston unique? Boston is a hotbed of technology and innovation. Harvard University and the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT), two of the world’s most prestigious universities, are in Cambridge, which is part of the Boston metropolitan area. As a result, Boston boasts a vibrant and highly talented tech community. Boston is a fantastic city for culture and history. It’s very walkable, in a way that reminds Irish visitors of Dublin. The historic centre of Faneuil Hall, the Italian food in the North End and Back Bay for shopping are some of my favourites. In addition to the neighbourhoods, customers and business partners are often drawn to Boston’s hugely successful sports teams. Taking in a Red Sox game at Fenway Park is a great night out. What are your top restaurants to take clients? Bistro du Midi (272 Boylston Street, +1 617 426 7878; bistrodumidi.com) is a consistently good French restaurant. Tables by the first-floor window overlook gardens in Boston Common, which is an especially beautiful sight in the autumn. In the US, business entertaining very often means steak! Boston Chops (52 Temple Place, +1 617 982 7130; bostonchops.com) is a great American-style steakhouse. However, it’s a crime to come to Boston and not eat seafood. If chowder wasn’t invented here, this is where it was perfected. Atlantic Fish Co (761 Boylston Street, +1 617 267 4000; atlanticfish.com) is a great steakhouse alternative. What is your favourite time of year in Boston? There is no doubt that autumn is beautiful in New England. Visitors come from all over the world for “leaf peeping” tours. If you get the timing right, it can
be truly spectacular. Unlike my wife, who hates the cold with a passion, I love the winter. Those -20°c January mornings can certainly be bleak but there are few things as exciting as two feet of snow! Where do you eat out? Toro (1704 Washington Street, +1 617 536 4300; toro-restaurant.com) is a small Spanish tapas place that buzzes with energy and great, authentic food. There are no reservations, so plan to put your name on the waitlist and go for a drink. Gaslight Brasserie (560 Harrison Avenue, +1 617 422 0224; gaslight560.com) is a Parisian bistro in the South End and consistently good as well. During a shopping trip into town, lunch on the patio at Stephanie’s on Newbury (190 Newbury Street, +1 617 236 0990; stephaniesrestaurantgroup. com) is great for people watching.
Top, Eric Mosley, has been taken by Boston’s hotbed of technology. Left, quite the feast at Gaslight Brasserie. Below, Fenway Park is a must-visit, and bottom, fingerlickin’ lobster rolls at Atlantic Fish Co.
How has Boston changed since you first arrived? I’ve been here 13 years and have seen the centre of gravity for different areas of the city evolve. Boston continues to attract tech and biotech businesses, and global companies like GE and Amazon are expanding their city footprint due to the abundance of highly skilled talent. The rejuvenation of the Seaport area has been the biggest change in the city. That’s brought a little bit of the energy away from the Financial District, Back Bay and the North End. What is your favourite weekend escape? I love the arrival of snow – a sign it’s ski time in New England. Some favourite ski weekend destinations are Stowe Mountain (stowe.com) in Vermont and Bretton Woods (brettonwoods.com) in New Hampshire. In the summer, Cape Cod is only a short drive south, great for its beaches and overall summer fun.
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A DAY IN THE LIFE Captain Rob Hempstead is the master of the world’s largest cruise ship, Royal Caribbean’s Symphony of the Seas, which launched earlier this year. A graduate of the California Maritime Academy in 1986, his career began with the US commercial ﬁshing ﬂeet in the Bering Sea and North Paciﬁc Ocean.
6.30am My day typically starts at this time when we are at sea but it can be as early as 4am if we’re arriving into port early, which is often the case on our current itinerary onboard Symphony of the Seas – Royal Caribbean’s newest and the world’s largest cruise ship – when visiting the beautiful destinations of the Western Mediterranean. First things ﬁrst, I need to catch up with business emails; our head oﬃce is based in Miami and we are always in touch no matter where we are sailing in the world. Then it’s time for the bridge team and I to plan the upcoming navigational course, as well as other functions of the vessel, and to discuss the day ahead. 7.30am I have a quick walk of the ship and a cup of coﬀee before I go to make the arrival announcement. This gives me a chance to meet guests and also keep an eye on our day-to-day business. At full capacity, Symphony of the Seas holds 6,780 guests across 16 guest decks. From the wonders of the Ultimate Family Suite to glow-in-the-dark laser tag and the infamous FlowRider and Ultimate Abyss, there is something for all thrill-seekers in the family, so it’s always nice to take a walk around and hear about their extraordinary experiences both onboard and oﬀ. 8.30am My day is busy with various meetings, one of the ﬁrst of which is with my executive
I LOVE VISITING …
ALASKA This is the most stunning coastline to sail; it’s impossible not to fall head over heels for the landscape, with its snow-topped mountains, glaciers and incredible opportunities to see the wildlife. From the Hubbard Glacier to Juneau, I never tire of visiting Alaska.
committee, covering all aspects of business for both guests and crew – there are 2,175 international crew members onboard. 10am Time for a walk in the ship’s Central Park to meet more guests and crew, before we head to the gangway on deck two, to check in with the team there. Central Park is one of Royal Caribbean’s seven “neighbourhoods”. At the centre of the ship, this open-air neighbourhood features more than 20,700 plants and winding pathways that lead to quiet nooks, retail boutiques, live entertainment and restaurants, including specialty dining restaurants: 150 Central Park, Chops Grille and Jamie’s Italian.
SEATTLE It is always amazing to come back to my hometown. It’s an incredible, bustling city with stunning natural beauty at arm’s reach. The beautiful snowy peaks of the Cascade mountains are hard to beat; I enjoy taking a brisk ride on my motorcycle in the foothills, 32 kilometres east of Downtown, every opportunity I get.
Noon It’s now lunch time and a chance to walk some of our crew members area and ﬁnd out what is happening in their world. A happy crew equals happy guests. That’s our motto! 1pm After lunch I check in with the bridge team and make sure we are all set for departure. 5pm After we are safe for sailing I give the navigational command to the Oﬃcer of Watch and start to prepare for the formal evening. This is when I have the pleasure of hosting the Captain’s Reception, taking pictures with our guests and greeting them with a welcome aboard speech.
SANTORINI I love returning to this Greek island, with its blue-domed churches and whitewashed villages perched high above the sea. The Greek coastline is a beautiful place to sail, with beaches of black, pink and grey volcanic sand and the crystal waters of the Aegean.
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Central and glitzy, the Hilton Berlin is in the thick of Germany’s most sprawling of cities.
here are three Hiltons in Berlin but for central location, you can’t beat the Hotel Berlin in Mitte. Mitte – meaning middle, natürlich – is a halfhour cab ride from Tegel Airport or around 45 minutes on public transport. It is also slap-bang in the centre of a comprehensive overground, underground and actual-ground network of trains, buses and trams, which makes getting around a piece of kuchen. Low of ceiling but light and bright, with iridescent surfaces, the Hilton Berlin’s lobby is conducive to informal meetings or remotely catching up with emails. For more focused activity, in-room work stations are comfortable and well equipped. There’s a polite, elegant colour scheme across the hotel – like most multinational chains, it wishes to neither offend nor excite – but inspiration can be found in one of the
guest rooms overlooking the Dome of Gendarmenmarkt, one of the city’s prettiest and grandest squares. Breakfast at Restaurant Beletage is top-class and plentiful, and includes chefs whipping up egg and pancake dishes at live cooking stations – but do leave room for a currywurst later, from the stall across the street. Well, when in Rome … If you’re in Berlin for a conference, make time for the Precor machines in the
hotel’s fitness centre, a restorative treatment in the spa or a dip in the generous-size swimming pool, and watch those slide shows fall away from memory. And if you’ve more free time, the must-visit Jewish Museum is a 15-minute walk away, with Checkpoint Charlie and the Brandenburg Gate closer still. Rooms at the Hilton Berlin cost from €119. (Mohrenstrasse 30, +49 30 202 300; www3.hilton.com)
EDINBURGH Self-declared as “Edinburgh’s first ‘smart’ hotel”, Haymarket Hub Hotel offers free-use smartphones that include data, and UK and international calls to up to ten countries. Other “smart” perks include in-room Sky TV and USB charging points, plus hot-desk stations in the lobby. There’s an Illy coffee shop and handy breakfast boxes, while its location opposite the train station offers convenient links to London and Aberdeen. Rooms from £76. haymarkethubhotel.com
PARIS Business travellers unwilling to compromise on food will be pleased to learn of the Fauchon L’Hotel. Fauchon, the iconic gourmet brand, dates back to 1886 and is now adding a hospitality string to its edible bow. This five-star, 54-room, 11-suite haute proposition takes its playfulness very seriously, with fashion photography prints and macron-hued textiles exploding across a reinvigorated Hausmann property in the 8th arrondissement. Rooms from €450. hotel-fauchon-paris.fr
3 NEW CRIBS ON THE BLOCK
SEATTLE Imagine Art Deco as seen through the lens of a student in the 1970s and you’d get Graduate Seattle. Very cool, this 1930s landmark building in the city’s University District was formerly the Deca Hotel and from this “Fall” welcomes newcomers into its newly minted interiors. Malin + Goetz toiletries and a rooftop bar and restaurant with 360˚-views of Downtown and Mount Ranier make this a very exciting new opening indeed. Rooms from $239. graduatehotels.com 118 |
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Building in Ireland for 60 years; it’s in our DNA
6 THINGS I’VE LEARNT Artie’s
create a network of Irish producers who could work together for the common good and, lastly, to help consumers at home and abroad find the very best of Irish food and drink. When any decision is made at Blas we go back to these three goals and ensure that the outcome is in line. We continue to grow – engaging in more and more events, from public showcases to networking and panel discussions, like the Backyard. With each new step we continually check it against our three objectives.
ARTIE CLIFFORD is the founder and chairperson of Blas na hÉireann, The Irish Food Awards, which has been rewarding the very best of Irish producers for 11 years. He also runs a food consultancy and catering business.
Sharing is caring I left school on a Friday and joined the crew of a fishing trawler the following Sunday as a share fisherman. Sharing wasn’t so much about the money but about working as a team and sharing the workload: if you didn’t do your share then it increased the workload on the rest of the crew. Doing more than your fair share is like saving for the future. So, if a time comes when you are overwhelmed by a challenge, your colleagues will be more willing to ease your burden.
R-E-S-P-E-C-T When you’re young, you learn self-respect by
giving respect to others to gain respect. Although you may not agree with others’ decisions, you should always respect them.
Lead from the back Never ask colleagues to undertake a task that you wouldn’t do yourself. When faced with a pile of sh*te be the first to grab a shovel.
Maintain your ethos When Blas was founded it had three goals in mind. Firstly, to recognise the very best of Irish food and drink and reward the producers that made it. Secondly, to
Lend an ear Listening to what others have to say is how we learn. By listening you will learn ideas and opinions you may not have considered before and be better able to decide how to move forward. Listening is hearing a message and should not be confused with receiving an order. So, listen, consider and then decide.
It’s a family affair Last but not least, never make a decision until you’ve considered the impact on the family. Yours, your colleagues’ and the people you deal with on a daily basis. If you make a decision that may have an adverse effect on family then you can be sure it’s the wrong one. In times of great difficulty, the first ones we reach out to are our families and because we treat them with consideration, care and respect, they will always be the first to offer their support.
DESTINATION I’m in Cork often as University College Cork (UCC) is our academic partner. It is such a vibrant city and a great place to meet buyers and academics coming in from overseas, not just because it is so accessible; it has a thriving food culture and lively atmosphere. Cork airport, especially, is such a great supporter of Irish producers.
STAY I stay at The Kingsley as it’s an easy distance to the city centre and ideal for my work in UCC. The staff is so welcoming and kind. When I’m working in Cork it’s so busy that you really need a good start to the day. And you can’t beat their breakfast overlooking the River Lee – it’s a pleasure to watch the ever-changing life on the river. (Carrigrohane Road, Sunday’s Well, 021 480 0500; thekingsley.ie)
EAT Cork’s restaurants are well known for supporting their local producers. For me, when choosing where to eat it’s all about the sourcing of ingredients. There’s no better place to see this in action than at the English Market, where you get to meet the producers and bump into the chefs as they’re picking up their ingredients. (Princes Street; englishmarket.ie)
DISCOVER ASHFORD CASTLE THIS WINTER Celebrating 800 years of History & Hospitality
Your royal adventure begins when you enter through the grand stone gates of our remarkable 800-year-old castle. Discover exquisite interiors, delicious cuisine, passionate service and a wealth of estate activities.
OURLM FI TOP O CE CH GEI131 PA
Inflight Sit back, relax and let Aer Lingus look after your inflight comfort and entertainment. Enjoy delicious food, the latest box office movie releases, a wide range of shopping and news from Aer Lingus.
Flying with Aer Lingus 124 Welcome On Board 126 Your Comfort and Safety 140 Flight Connections 142 Our Route Networks 146 Connecting to Wi-Fi Inflight Entertainment 130 Box Office Movies 132 Movie Classics 134 TV Shows 136 Binge Watching 138 Music & Radio
Welcome On Board Flying with Aer Lingus means you will experience excellent customer service, comfort and, of course, safety. There’s plenty for you to enjoy on board and, on the following pages, you will discover how we’ll be taking care of you. If you have any special requests, be sure to let us know. After all, we’re here to help you make the most of your ﬂight.
In touch with Aer Lingus If you are availing of Wi-Fi on your ﬂight today, why not let us know what you’re up to on board and where you are going. Take a photo and post it to our Facebook page. Let us know how you’re enjoying your ﬂight on Snapchat or Instagram. Chat to us on Twitter where you’ll also ﬁnd the latest ﬂight information. View our videos of milestone events, festivals, sponsorships and campaigns on YouTube.
Aer Lingus is proud to be recognised as Ireland‘s only 4-star airline, awarded by Skytrax, the world‘s leading airline and airport review specialists.
Why not try spea king a few words of the native language while you are visiting Irelan d!
Fáilte Welcome Dia dhuit Hello Slán go fóill Good bye ...is ainm dom My name is.. . Conas atá tú? Ho w are you? Tá mé go maith I’m good Sláinte! Cheers Go raibh maith agat Thank you Gabh mo leithsc éal Excuse me Cara Friend
Guests with wheelchair requirements If you require a wheelchair to help you reach or depart from the plane, then we’re here to help you. Your comfort and safety are our priority, so please let us know at least 48 hours in advance and we will look after you. When contacting us you will need your booking reference number. Assistance Contact Details email@example.com Ireland (0818) 365 011 09:00–17:00 Mon–Fri 10:00–16:00 Sat & Sun 10:00–16:00 Bank Holidays UK (0871) 718 20 21 Europe +353 1 886 8333 USA (516) 622 4222
Aer Lingus Wild Atlantic Way Inﬂight Video Guide Available Now Transatlantic In-ﬂight Entertainment - TV / Destinations & Lifestyle
Featuring Great Things to Do, Places to Go, Stay, Eat, Drink & Shop
Louis Mulcahy Pottery, Dingle
Aran Sweater Market, Aran Islands
Brown Thomas, Galway
Enibas Jewellery, Kinsale
Ashford Castle, Co. Mayo
Dingle Distillery, Kerry
Coming Soon! Dublin Inﬂight Video Guide Nominate your Favourite Dublin Visitor Experiences on www.inﬂightﬂix.com/nominate InFlightFlix
Portable Electronic Devices You can use portable electronic equipment on flights but some devices can interfere with aircraft equipment, creating potential safety risks. Knowing how to set up your device for flight use and when to switch it on and off are therefore very important. Please note that certain devices may not be used.
Your Comfort and Safety When you fly with us, you want to know that we’re looking after your comfort and safety at all times. We are. It is our number one priority and our crew are trained to ensure you reach your destination as relaxed as you need to be. In return, we ask for your attention when it comes to safety announcements and knowing when, and how, to turn on your mobile, smartphone or portable device.
To avail of our Wi-Fi and Mobile Network on our A330 aircraft, you must switch off flight mode on your device – once our crew advise it is safe to do so. Follow the simple steps on page 146.
Are you ready for take-off and landing? • Is your mobile phone and/ or other portable electronic device in flight mode? • Is your seatback fully upright? • Is your armrest down? • Is your tabletop stowed? • Have you stored your bags in the overhead locker or under the seat in front of you? To use your mobile phone and all other portable electronic devices during taxi, take-off or landing, they must be switched to flight mode or the flight safe setting. If you wish to use your phone during your flight, please make sure you select flight safe mode before your phone is powered off. Please note, if your device does not have a flight safe mode it may not be used on your flight. After landing and only when crew have advised that it is safe to do so, you are permitted to use your mobile phone, provided it is within easy reach. You must remain seated with your seatbelt fastened and follow the instructions of the cabin crew.
Devices permitted at any time Devices powered by micro battery cells and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers. Devices permitted inflight only* Laptops, portable CD-players, mini-disk players, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers and electronic toys. For the comfort of other guests, audio devices should be used with a headset. If using laptops inflight please select flight safe mode before takeoff. *Not permitted during taxi/take-off/ initial climb/approach/landing.
Devices prohibited at all times Devices transmitting radio frequency intentionally such as walkie-talkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and mini-disk recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN).** **Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.
CASHMERE STORE Established 1960
“Ireland’s Leading Cashmere Store” Frommers Travel Guide
DISCOVER THE INTRIGUING TALE OF IRISH WHISKEY
Tom & Suzanne Monaghan
Whiskey tasting Guided tours Venue hire Off Iicence & Bar
A trip to Dublin would not be complete without visiting Tom and Suzanne Monaghan in their store at 21 South Anne Street. Monaghan’s is famous for its cashmere selling a wide range of classic sweaters in the latest styles and colours for both men and women. As they celebrate 58 years Tom and Suzanne would personally love to meet you in-store and offer you an extra 10% discount in addition to your tax free rebate on your horizon tax free card for all non EU residents (terms and conditions apply)
+353 (0) 1 525 0970 WWW.IRISHWHISKEYMUSEUM.IE 119 GRAFTON STREET, DUBLIN 2 (OPPOSITE MAIN ENTRANCE OF TRINITY COLLEGE)
M Monaghans Cashmere, 21 South Anne Street, Dublin 2, Phone: +353 (0)1 6794451
Your Comfort and Safety
Please pay attention to the cabin crew while they demonstrate the use of safety equipment before take-off, and we strongly recommend that you read the safety instruction card in the seat pocket in front of you.
For your Safety
Here are a few tips to make your journey more comfortable:
A safe ﬂight for everyone It is worth repeating that your safety – and that of everyone on board – is our number one priority therefore we ask that you:
Keep moving: On longer ﬂights particularly, try to change your sitting position regularly and avoid crossing your legs. Take a walk in the cabin once the seat belt sign is off as this will get your circulation going and refresh your legs.
• Please pay attention to instructions given to you by the cabin crew.
Ear care: Cabin pressure changes can be painful, particularly if you have a cold, sinusitis or existing ear problems. If you experience these problems during the ﬂight, have a chat to our cabin crew. Drink up: Keep yourself hydrated throughout the ﬂight by drinking plenty of water. Eye care: If you are a regular contact lens wearer, it is a good idea to bring your glasses with you in case your eyes feel dryer than usual. Time zones: Help beat jet lag by setting your watch to your destination’s time when you arrive on board. This will help you adjust to the new time zone faster. 128 |
• Do not consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or another guest (including Duty Free alcohol purchased from Boutique). It is illegal to do so.
Fóg ra Sáb háil tea cht Pour vot re Séc urit é Für ihre Sich erh eit Par a su Seg urid ad
Per la vos tra Sicu rezz Säkerh et a om bor d Sikkerh et om bord Sikkerh ed om bord Plea se do
ON Airplane Mode
ON Airplane Mode
• Do not interrupt cabin crew while they carry out their duties and do not interfere with aircraft equipment. • We also want to make it clear that Aer Lingus may refuse to allow a guest on board if it is thought that too much alcohol has been consumed. • Similarly, behaviour or language towards other guests or crew members that is deemed to be threatening or abusive will not be tolerated. • Taking photographs or video of airline personnel, equipment or procedures is strictly prohibited on board. • Taking photographs or video of other guests on board without their express consent is prohibited. • You may take photos or video of guests travelling in your party for your own personal use.
In line with Irish Government regulations, Aer Lingus has a no smoking and no electronic cigarettes policy on board. These are not permitted in any part of the cabin.
Avengers: Inﬁnity War
Box Office Movies
The Avengers and their Super Hero allies must be willing to sacriﬁce all in an attempt to defeat the powerful Thanos before his blitz of devastation and ruin puts an end to the universe.
Aer Lingus presents a variety of recently released movies for your enjoyment on board your ﬂight. Welcome to the international multiplex cinema in the sky.
A Quiet Place
A Wrinkle in Time
90 mins | Horror A family is hiding from creatures that hunt by sound. Stars Emily Blunt, John Krasinski, Millicent Simmonds
110 mins | Adventure Meg travels through time and space to ﬁnd her father. Stars Oprah Winfrey, Reese Witherspoon, Mindy Kaling
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Maze Runner: The Death Cure
Avengers: Inﬁnity War
149 mins | Action The Avengers risk it all in a showdown with Thanos. Stars Robert Downey Jr, Chris Hemsworth, Mark Ruffalo EN FR DE IT ES CCEN
Ready Player One
106 mins | Musical A scientist goes to India to sell genetically modiﬁed rice. Stars Brie Larson, Utkarsh Ambudkar, Scott Bakula
134 mins | Action Facing an old enemy, T’Challa’s mettle as king is tested. Stars Chadwick Boseman, Michael B Jordan, Lupita Nyong‘o
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The 15:17 to Paris
144 mins | Action A hero embarks on a mission to ﬁnd a cure for a virus. Stars Dylan O‘Brien, Ki Hong Lee, Kaya Scodelario
106 mins | Action Mutated gorilla, wolf and crocodile rampage across America. Stars Dwayne Johnson, Naomie Harris, Malin Akerman
140 mins | Action Virtual reality world OASIS users are challenged by its creator. Stars Tye Sheridan, Olivia Cooke, Ben Mendelsohn
138 mins | Mystery A Russian spy is forced to use her body as a weapon. Stars Jennifer Lawrence, Joel Edgerton, Charlotte Rampling
94 mins | Drama Three Americans discover a terrorist plot aboard a train. Stars Alek Skarlatos, Judy Greer, Anthony Sadler, Spencer Stone
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OUR ILM TOP F ICE CHO
Tomb Raider Lara Croft, the fiercely independent daughter of a missing adventurer, must push herself beyond her limits when she discovers the island where her father disappeared.
Isle of Dogs
102 mins | Comedy Three overprotective parents flip out when they find out about their daughters‘ plans. Stars Kathryn Newton, John Cena, Leslie Mann
100 mins | Comedy A group of friends try to solve a murder mystery. Stars Jason Bateman, Rachel McAdams, Kyle Chandler
101 mins | Animation Isle of Dogs follows a boy‘s search for his dog, Spots. Voiced by Bryan Cranston, Koyu Rankin, Edward Norton
94 mins | Comedy An artistically inclined girl comes of age in Sacramento. Stars Saoirse Ronan, Laurie Metcalf, Tracy Letts
109 mins | Drama Simon must face everyone and come to terms with his identity. Stars Nick Robinson, Jennifer Garner, Josh Duhamel
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118 mins | Action Lara Croft discovers the island where her father disappeared. Stars Alicia Vikander, Dominic West, Walton Goggins
92 mins | Drama Marlo comes to form a unique bond with a young nanny. Stars Charlize Theron, Mackenzie Davis, Mark Duplass
101 mins | Drama A carousel operator‘s wife pursues an affair with a lifeguard. Stars Justin Timberlake, Juno Temple, Kate Winslet
95 mins | KidZone An adaptation of Beatrix Potter‘s classic tale of a rabbit. Voiced by James Corden, Fayssal Bazzi, Domhnall Gleeson
86 mins | KidZone Sherlock Gnomes investigates garden gnomes disappearance. Voiced by Kelly Asbury, Mary J Blige, Emily Blunt
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G General PG Parental Guidance PG13 Parental Guidance. Not suitable for children under 13. R Restricted. Not suitable for children under 18.
Available in EN English FR Français DE Deutsch IT Italiano ES Español CCEN Closed Caption English ADEN Audio Descriptive English ENS English Subtitles AERLINGUS.COM |
A selection of classic movies is available onboard today along with some popular movies such as The Wedding Singer, Hairspray and Music and Lyrics. Plus don‘t forget to check out some of our new and awardwinning Irish shorts and features too!
A E R L I N G U S TA K E O F F F O U N DAT I O N
About Time R 119 mins | Stars Domhnall Gleeson, Rachel McAdams, Bill Nighy
Alien R 117 mins | Stars Sigourney Weaver, Tom Skerritt, John Hurt
Assassin‘s PG13 Creed 115 mins | Stars Michael Fassbender, Marion Cotillard
Begin Again 104 mins | Stars Keira Knightley, Mark Ruffalo, Adam Levine
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Crazy Heart R 107 mins | Stars Jeff Bridges, Maggie Gyllenhaal, Colin Farrell
Fever Pitch 103 mins | Stars Colin Firth, Ruth Gemmell
PG13 Goal! III 94 mins | Stars JJ Feild, Leo Gregory, Kuno Becker
Groundhog PG Day 101 mins | Stars Bill Murray, Andie MacDowell
Grudge Match PG13 113 mins | Stars Robert De Niro, Sylvester Stallone
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Catwoman PG13 102 mins | Stars Halle Berry, Sharon Stone, Benjamin Bratt
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We are delighted to offer award winning short ﬁlms from the Aer Lingus Irish Filmmaker Competition; Goodbye, Darling by Maria Elena Doyle, The Lost Letter by Brian Willis and Leap of Faith produced by Jonathan Farrelly and directed by Mark Smyth. Also available is The Secret Market by Garrett Daly and Martina McGlynn.
13 mins | Drama A love story of an Irish Volunteer in the 1916 Rising. Stars Aoibhinn McGinnity EN
Hairspray PG 116 mins | Stars John Travolta, Queen Latifah, Nikki Blonsky
Harry Potter PG and the Prisoner of Azkaban
How to Be Single 108 mins | Stars Dakota Johnson
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142 mins | Stars Daniel Radcliffe
Midnight PG13 in Paris 94 mins | Stars Owen Wilson
Miss PG13 Congeniality 107 mins | Stars Sandra Bullock, Michael Caine
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Leap of Faith
14 mins | Drama Kelly is captivated by her new neighbour. Stars Leah Egan EN
Music PG13 and Lyrics 104 mins | Stars Hugh Grant, Drew Barrymore
Pelé: Birth PG of a Legend 107 mins | Stars Vincent D‘Onofrio
Sleepless PG in Seattle 104 mins | Stars Tom Hanks, Meg Ryan
The Heat R 114 mins | Stars Sandra Bullock, Melissa McCarthy
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The Time PG13 Traveler‘s Wife 106 mins | Stars Eric Bana
The Wedding PG13 Singer 97 mins | Stars Adam Sandler
Victory PG 117 mins | Stars Michael Caine, Sylvester Stallone
Walk the Line PG13 136 mins | Stars Joaquin Phoenix, Reese Witherspoon
27 Dresses PG13 111 mins | Stars Katherine Heigl, James Marsden
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The Hunger PG13 Games: Mockingjay – Part 1 122 mins | Stars
The Lost Letter
8 mins | Animation A boy tries to spread Christmas cheer. Voiced by Kate Winslet EN
The Secret Market
23 mins | Drama A surgeon‘s past life haunts her. Stars Victoria Smurﬁt EN
I R I S H S H O R T & F E AT U R E S
Inside I‘m PG13 Racing 18 mins | Stars Frank Blake, Ethan Dodd
Same Old PG13 Song and Dance 3 mins | Voiced by Darragh Keating, Rachel Feeney
A Novel PG13 Approach to Dating 9 mins | Stars Stephen Broekhuizen
The PG13 Postcard 5 mins | Stars Áine Gallagher, Craig Stewart
Poxy PG13 14 mins | Stars Scott Graham, Art Kearns, Lewish Harris
Wave PG13 14 mins | Stars Tj O‘Grady Peyton, Emmet Kirwan, Tiny James
Meetings PG13 With Ivor 82 mins | Stars Ivor Browne
The PG13 Delinquent Season 103 mins | Stars Cillian Murphy, Andrew Scott EN
See Exquisite Pieces of Crystal manufactured before your eyes
Open daily Book a day trip from Dublin with Railtours Ireland
“It’s crystal clear”
A factory tour where you can almost rub shoulders with the artisans as they produce beautiful objects
On social media:
“Great Tour of Waterford Crystal”
Great history, very close to the process and really beautiful items
www.waterfordvisitorcentre.com Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Phone: +353 (0) 51 317000
For over 175 years everyone has enjoyed a warm Irish Welcome in The Temple Bar. Lovers of whiskey have enjoyed Irelands largest whiskey collection, complimented with live Irish music sessions daily at the friendliest spot in Dublin.
Beach Life with Angela Kan Angela explores Cairns, Australia Hotel Fixer The Brennans restore hospitality businesses Ice Holes The guys devise their unofficial contest with rival Josh Jamie and Jimmy‘s Friday Night Feast Chris O‘Dowd and Dawn O‘Porter‘s honeymoon meal Lyndey Milan‘s Taste of Ireland Lyndey tastes her way across Ireland QI A comedy panel game where you don‘t have to be right Rude(ish) Tube The funniest, freakiest and most incredible clips Take Me Out Bachelors try to impress single women Treyvaud’s Travels Treyvaud travels to Enniskillen to meet Pat O’Doherty
TV Shows Aer Lingus is home to some of the most anticipated new shows on TV including comedy, drama, documentary, lifestyle, business, sports and kids programmes.
Television’s hit fashion series showcases America’s most talented new fashion designers. Hosted by Emmy Award-winning fashion icons, Heidi Klum and Tim Gunn, designers face new challenges to demonstrate their unique talents and test their skills. On board is Series 16, Episode 1.
L E A R N & D I S C OV E R
CNBC Conversation Kate Hudson talks about acting and business Managing Asia Anthony Tan is a co-founder and group CEO of Grab Marketing. Media. Money Formula 1 Grand Prix motorsport Talkin‘ Success An inspiring show about entrepreneurship The Rise of Us – Fire in You Meet four South African entrepreneurs What‘s Your Custom Sneaker customisation is booming L AU G H O U T L O U D
2 Broke Girls Two waitresses at a diner hope to launch their business Detectorists Two metal detectorists plod along tracks and ﬁelds Father Ted Sitcom about 3 priests who live on Craggy Island, Ireland Fresh Off the Boat A Taiwanese family makes their way in US Friends Personal and professional lives of six friends in New York How I Met Your Mother A father tells his kids about their mother It‘s Always Sunny in Philadelphia Lives of an Irish bar proprietors The Last Man On Earth A virus wipes out the human race The Middle The daily mishaps of a semi-dysfunctional family Two and a Half Men A hedonistic writer‘s life with his brother Young Sheldon The early life of child genius Sheldon Cooper 134 |
Designing Ireland Meet the Irish designers, makers and creators Don‘t Tell the Bride (Ireland) A bride hands control to a groom How to Win at Everything Experts hold their breath for a long time Man vs Octopus Contests compare their abilities Supercar Megabuild Experts engineer the Audi R8 Drifter The Gloaming: Moment to Moment A group of ﬁve musicians The Secret World of Trees Native Irish trees and woodlands The Shelbourne The Shelbourne Hotel is a piece of living history Tracks and Trails Explore Dublin‘s Royal Canal Tut‘s Treasures Tutankhamun’s tomb in the Egyptian Museum MUSIC & ARTS
Beneath the Surface Big wave surfer Andrew Cotton Dream Teams Who makes it into Brazil’s Greatest XI? Epic Trails Eric Hanson explores the world’s top trails Football‘s Greatest Stage The World Cup’s greatest teams Super Bowl LII The action-packed highlights from Super Bowl LII Up Close With Neymar The lifestyles of biggest sport stars NEWS & EVENTS
In addition to our extensive selection of TV shows, Aer Lingus brings you exclusive weekly news updates, as well as updates from the world of sport.
7 Minutes in Heaven Celebrity interviews with Mike O‘Brien Alec Baldwin‘s Love Ride Alec bestows love advice onto couples riding in NYC cabs Foil, Arms and Hog A compilation from the Irish comedy group Remember When The funny side of basketball through daily videos Sound Advice A media coach helps celebrities, one joke at a time Workball Short videos from The Kicker office for sports fans WELLBEING
Ageless Gardens The role gardens can play in healthy aging Chasing Happiness The research about happiness Chasing Sleep Medical series that will make a sleep guru out of you Real Health Topics about holistic health solutions The Food Files The real beneﬁts and risks of our favourite foods Yoga From Your Seat Exercises to do on a plane K I DZ O N E
Avatar: The Last Airbender Katara discovers who is the Avatar Drake & Josh Drake and Josh compete in a Salsa-Making Contest Giving Tales Classic fairy tales by Hans Christian Anderson PAW Patrol A group of six rescue dogs have adventures Rocka-Bye Island Sean, Roisin and friends go to a magical preschool Roobarb and Custard A loveable dog and sarcastic pink cat Victorious A childhood bet turns Tori into Trina‘s personal slave
Pharrell: Live From Hyde Park Pharrell Williams performs tracks from his illustrious career such as Grammy award-winning tracks Happy and Get Lucky.
Auction: David Bowie Special David Bowie‘s ‘secret‘ art collection Olly Murs: Live From Hyde Park Olly performs in Hyde Park Patricia Routledge on Beatrix Potter Featuring Beatrix Potter Smart Secrets of Great Paintings The Primavera by Sandro Botticelli The Rolling Stones: Havana Moon Once in a lifetime concert
Brooklyn Nine-Nine Detective Jake Peralta and the 99th Precinct crew are back for the fourth season of award-winning comedy. Jake and Captain Holt are under witness-protection as the search for dangerous criminal Figgis continues. On board is Series 4, Episodes 3 and 4.
IRISH AR N S W E AT EA RS SINCE 198
BEST VALUE FOR IRISH ARAN SWEATERS
Dublin 30 Nassau Street Dublin 2
27 Nassau Street Dublin 2
From our family to yours...
49 Thomas Street Dublin 8 Galway 3 Lower Abbey Gate Street
10 William Street (Tribes) Galway
FREE SHIPPING* TO USA AND CANADA
Kilkenny 81 High Street
TA X F R E E S H O P P I N G .
Killarney 27 Plunkett Street
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WE SPECIALISE IN WATCH & JEWELLERY REPAIRS
THE WATCH GALLERY WE BUY
ROLEX, PATEK & CARTIER
Buying? Selling? Trading? Immediate Cash Payment • Full Range of Luxury Watches
We gaurantee the Best Value for Money Rolex • Cartier • Patek Phillippe • Breguet • Franck Muller Audemars • Breitling • IWC • Jaeger • Omega
Please phone or visit our shop
Specialist Service For Repairs & Restoration, Battery Replacement Watch Batteries Fitted on Premises Trade in accepted for New and Preowned Watches Diamond Jewellery, instore and made to order
DAWSON JEWELLERS LTD., 21 DAWSON STREET, DUBLIN 2 OPEN TUESDAY - SATURDAY 9.00AM - 6.00PM TEL: 01 662 4437 EMAIL: email@example.com
Binge Watching Choose from a broad selection of boxsets to watch on board from the aristocratic period drama Downton Abbey to the corporate world of Suits. Delve into the hugely popular Big Little Lies and Peaky Blinders or the quirky drama Fargo. Also on board are Riverdale, Arrow, Get Shorty and The Walking Dead. Arrow Season 6
Big Little Lies Season 1
Big Little Lies weaves a darkly comedic tale of murder and mischief in the tranquil beachfront town of Monterey, California. Told through the eyes of three mothers – the series‘ narrative explores society‘s myths regarding perfection and its romanticisation of marriage, sex, parenting and friendship.
Billionaire playboy Oliver Queen returns home to Star City after disappearing for five years, but his crime-fighting team is threatened by unexpected enemies, forcing Oliver to rethink his relationship with each member of his ‘family‘.
Downton Abbey Season 4 PG13
Peaky Blinders Season 1 & 2 R An epic gangster drama set in the lawless streets of post-war Birmingham on the cusp of the 1920s. The story centres on a street gang led by the fierce Tommy Shelby (Cillian Murphy).
Riverdale Season 1 & 2
The Crawley family is embroiled in intrigue and potential scandal. Lady Mary is in mourning and pays no heed to the two new suitors while Lady Edith fairs no better as her own love-life takes a tragic turn.
Riverdale follows Archie Andrews’ life in the small town of Riverdale and explores the darkness hidden behind its seemingly perfect image. Amidst all the small-town banality lurks a mystery: the recent tragic death of Jason Blossom.
Fargo Season 3
Suits Season 7
The third season centers on Emmit and his younger brother Ray (both played by Ewan McGregor). Their sibling rivalry follows a twisted path that begins with petty theft but soon leads to murder and mobsters.
The future of top Manhattan law firm is threatened by its past. Meanwhile, engaged Rachel (Meghan Markle) and Mike (Patrick J Adams) contemplate whether they should prioritise their relationship over the firm for once.
Get Shorty Season 1
The Walking Dead Season 7 R
Dark comedy series inspired by the best-selling Elmore Leonard‘s novel. Get Shorty follows Miles Daly (Chris O‘Dowd), the muscle for a Nevada crime ring who attempts to become a movie producer in Hollywood. 136 |
Weeks and months after the apocalypse, Rick‘s world becomes even more brutal due to Negan‘s deadly rules. Will the three communities come together and take on Negan‘s army in an all-out war?
Set in the heart of the city, O’Neill’s is one of Dublin’s most famous and historic pubs. When you pay us a visit you will receive a warm welcome and enjoy its ageless character, numerous alcoves, snugs, nooks and crannies. • Extensive Irish Food Menu and • Largest selection of local Irish Craft Famous Carvery serving only the Beers on draught in Ireland finest Irish Meat, Fish and Vegetables • Free Wi-Fi to all our Customers from 12 noon until 11.00pm every night. • HD and 3D Screens for the Sports Fan • Traditional Irish Music and Dancers with major international league games 7 nights-a-week - No Charge • Our ‘Really Good’ Full Irish Breakfast • Roof-Top Beer Garden and Smoking Area can’t be beaten for quality and value. • For the whiskey connoisseur there’s 11 items plus tea/coffee, toast, jam our Whiskey Bar where you’ll find a and butter is only €8.95, Pictured fantastic selection of Irish whiskeys below. This special offer is available and malts Mon-Fri only, 8am-11.30am. a great selection of freshly cooked specials and roasted meats at the Carvery.
MARCO PIERRE WHITE STEAKHOUSE & GRILL DAWSON STREET DUBLIN 2 Traditional Irish Music and Dancing 7 nights-a-week. A selection of Irish Roasted and baked meats ready to be carved
MARCO PIERRE WHITE COURTYARD BAR & GRILL Our ‘Really Good’ Breakfast Menu is served 7 days a week.
DONNYBROOK DUBLIN 4
M.J. O’Neill, Suffolk Street, Dublin 2. Tel. 01 679 3656. www.oneillspubdublin.com Mon-Thurs: 8.00am-11.30pm / Fri: 8.00am-12.30am / Sat: 8.00am-12.30am / Sun: 8.00am-11.00pm
www.marcopierrewhite.ie Top 5 places to find Real Irish Food in Dublin
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Music & Radio
British singer-songwriter George Ezra is back with chart-topping, charming folk-pop-rhythms-ﬁlled Staying at Tamara’s. In this sophomore album largely written in Barcelona, Ezra sings about dream, love, escaping reality and living in the moment. Uplifting summer anthem Shotgun and the breezy romantic tune Paradise are the album‘s highlights.
Browse through our selection of music and create your own playlist from a collection of over 1,000 albums. On Demand Radio allows you to select and view your favourite radio shows.
CL ASSIC AL
RTÉ Lyric FM Marty in the Morning RTÉ lyric fm The Full Score with Liz Nolan RTÉ lyric fm EASY LISTENING
An hour long compilation of easy listening songs from Fitzpatrick Hotels INDIE
Lost in Music Louise Duffy, Today FM
Breakfast Republic 2FM Pop Charts Compilation of favourite pop songs RTÉ Gold Digital Radio Al Dunne, RTÉ Gold, 4 decades of great music Ronan Collins RTÉ Radio 1, Featuring listeners’ old favourites, plus the best of the new and some surprises in between 98FM’s Top 10 Summer Songs with Barry Dunne 98FM
Marty in the Morning RTÉ lyric fm is a music station with a classical bias whilst also offering the listener a vast and eclectic array of music from all periods, continents, genres, styles and expressive forms. Join Marty as he takes listeners on a journey to de-stress on board your ﬂight today.
Marty Miller Radio Nova
Ceol na nGael Seán Ó hÉanaigh, RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta Irish Pulse Compilation of Irish artists K I DZ O N E
CAKE – Culture & Arts for Kids and Everyone Abie Philbin Bowman, RTÉ Junior
TA L K
Best of Moncrieff Seán Moncrieff, Newstalk RTÉ Radio 1 Documentary on One Two documentaries are on offer from RTÉ Radio 1‘s multi award winning Documentary On One. The ﬁrst is on Russian spies and their ties to Ireland, and the second is on Pauline Dunne, an introvert who sees the positives in people with quieter dispositions. AU D I O B O O K
Fenian‘s Trace The story of two boys raised as brothers in early 1900s Ireland who choose different paths when the rebellion comes but fall in love with the same woman. Written by Sean P Mahoney and narrated by Liam Carney.
Breakfast Republic on 2FM Jennifer, Keith and Bernard wake up the nation every weekday morning with comedy and music on 2fm. For this special Aer Lingus episode of Breakfast Republic they bring you just some of their favourite sketches and songs which even include some originals by Bernard.
Chloe x Halle Sisters Chloe and Halle Bailey, aka Chloe x Halle, caught the attention of none other than R&B Queen Beyoncé after winning a Disney radio competition. Chloe x Halle were quickly signed to Bey’s label and opened the European leg of her Formation tour. The versatile young singers also star in Grown-ish and their new album The Kids are Alright features in the new Disney movie A Wrinkle in Time.
We appreciate your feedback on our inﬂight content. Tell us what you think, send us a tweet!
ALL TIME FAVOURITES
Bill Withers Just as I Am Bob Dylan Blonde on Blonde Daryl Hall & John Oates The Essential Collection Earth, Wind & Fire That’s the Way of the World Simon & Garfunkel Bridge Over Troubled Water Wham! Make It Big
Jason Aldean Rearview Town Kenny Chesney Live in No Shoes Nation Rachel Wammack Rachel Wammack Russell Dickerson Yours Tim McGraw The Rest of Our Life Walker Hayes Boom
First Aid Kit Ruins Lo Moon Lo Moon Moon Taxi Let The Record Play The Lone Bellow Walk Into a Storm The Neighbourhood The Neighbourhood Tom Grennan Found what I‘ve Been Looking For
DVBBS Blood of My Blood Kygo Kids in Love Lost Frequencies Less is More Michael Bersch Departure Saint Etienne Smash the System Singles 1990–99 The Chainsmokers Sick Boy IR ISH
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Francesco Grillo The Four Seasons Leif Ove Andsnes Sibelius Lang Lang Romance LGT Young Soloists Nordic Dream Lucas Debargue Schubert, Szymanowski Nils Mönkemeyer Baroque
Bill Frisell Music IS Dee Dee Bridgewater Memphis... Yes, I‘m Ready Keyon Harrold The Mugician Silje Nergaard For You a Thousand Times Sly & Robbie Nordub M E TA L
ELEC TRO A LT E R N AT I V E
JA Z Z
Avishai Cohen 1970
Celtic Thunder Inspirational Christy Moore On the Road Little Hours Too Much Patience Simon Taylor Now Then The Script Acoustic Sessions Van Morrison You‘re Driving Me Crazy
Arch Enemy Will to Power Judas Priest Firepower Motörhead The Very Best of Ozzy Osbourne No More Tears Papa Roach Crooked Teeth Soilwork The Living Inﬁnite OPER A
Christian Gerhaher Romantische Arien Jonas Kaufmann L‘Opéra Nuria Rial, Maurice Steger Baroque Twitter Pretty Yende Dreams The London Oratory Schola Cantorum Boys Choir Sacred Treasures of England Verdi Opera‘s Greatest Duets
Moss Kena exploded onto the scene when he reworked Kendrick Lamar’s These Walls to the acclaim of Lamar himself. The newcomer’s debut I Found You in 06 is a ﬁve-track EP which puts the British singer’s mesmerising voice and unique interpretation of R&B beats to the fore. The music video for opening track Square One is as unmissable as the EP.
Camila Cabello Camila George Ezra Staying At Tamara‘s Justin Timberlake Man of the Woods Matt Cardle Time to Be Alive Paloma Faith The Architect Prettymuch Prettymuch RNB
Chloe x Halle The Kids Are Alright Craig David The Time Is Now Leon Bridges Good Thing Miguel War & Leisure Moss Kena Found You in 06 The Isley Brothers The Ultimate Isley Brothers
Dreamcar Dreamcar Nothing But Thieves Broken Machine The Isley Brothers & Santana Power of Peace The Vaccines Combat Sports Three Days Grace Outsider Toto Greatest Hits – 40 Trips Around the Sun K I DZ O N E
Archie Campbell Kids, I Love ‘Em! Arthur Fiedler Classics For Children Carole King Really Rosie Judson Mancebo Babies Love Queen Various Artists DreamWorks Trolls – The Beat Goes On! Various Artists The Wacky World of Mother Goose
Flight Connections at Dublin Airport
Dublin Airport provides FREE Wi-Fi throughout the Terminal
Welcome to Dublin Airport Are your bags checked through to your ﬁnal destination?
YES Follow signs for Flight Connections
Naisc Eitilte Flight Connections
Where are you ﬂying to?
NO Follow the signs for ‘Baggage Reclaim’. After clearing passport control, your baggage belt will be displayed on the screens. Collect your bags, exit through Customs and proceed to Aer Lingus Check-in Terminal 2.
USA USA GATES 401– 426 15 minutes walk to gate
Our staﬀ are on hand for any queries you might have. Here, you can collect your onwards boarding pass and check your next boarding gate and ﬂight status
Gate Information Screens
Passport Control and Security Screening
GATES 401–426 15 minutes walk to gate GATES 101–335 20 minutes walk to gate
Have all your required forms ﬁlled out.
Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk
ALL OTHER DESTINATIONS
Follow signs for US Preclearance
Hand Baggage search Follow signs for Flight Connections
Enjoy refreshments in one of the restaurants or cafés.
AerClub Concierge, Platinum and Silver members are welcome to visit the Aer Lingus Lounge. You can work, eat, drink or even grab a shower between flights.
If you have any queries about your connecting flight at any of our North American destinations please ask us. We will do everything we can to get you to where you need to be.
Flight Connections T2 London Heathrow
Geataí Gates Réamh-Imréitach SAM U.S. Preclearance
Duty free purchases containing liquids over 100ml must be in a sealed and tamper-proof bag with the receipt inside.
Flight Connections for North American destinations
On arrival at Terminal 2, Heathrow, please follow the purple signs for Flight Connections. Which terminal are you flying from? For Terminals 3, 4 and 5, a dedicated bus will transfer you. Buses are free and depart every six to ten minutes. If you are flying from Terminal 2, proceed to security screening and enter the departures lounge. Security screening You will pass through security screening at this point. Your hand baggage will be checked to ensure it conforms to UK and EU regulations. Liquids in containers over 100ml are not allowed through security. Departure lounge Check the screens in the departure lounge for when your gate opens and when your flight is ready for boarding.
handcrafted jewellery collection in sterling silver & 14k gold each piece is engraved with 12 symbols that represent some of the most historical eras in irish history.
Available at all leading Jewellery & Gift Stores. For more information visit: www.historyoďŹ reland.ie CRAFTED BY
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Honolulu Honolulu Kahului Kahului
San Juan Aguadilla Ponce
We are the best choice for connecting Europe to North America. You can travel from Dublin direct to twelve US destinations, or to Canada, and beneﬁt from up to 100 onward connections with our partner airlines. You can also ﬂy from Shannon direct to Boston and New York JFK. With US Customs and Border Protection Preclearance at Dublin and Shannon airports, you will save time and avoid queues in the US. Arrive in the US before you depart Ireland. 142 |
Aer Lingus European and North American Network Aer Lingus Regional routes (Operated by Stobart Air) Aer Lingus Regional and mainline routes Aer Lingus partner destinations (Operated by Flybe, for routes via Dublin to North America) Aer Lingus partner destinations (American Airlines, Air Canada, Alaska Airlines, Jetblue, United Airlines and WestJet) Aer Lingus partner destinations (Operated by City Flyer)
Route map correct at time of print.
Aer Lingus ﬂy direct to and from over 100 destinations across Ireland, the UK, Continental Europe, Canada and the US. Our vast network and partners will also connect you to dozens of other cities in North America. Visit aerlingus.com for more information.
Leeds Bradford Doncaster Manchester
Isle of Man
Amsterdam London London City London Southend Heathrow
Nantes Geneva Lyon Bordeaux
Santiago de Compostela
Venice Milan Verona (Malpensa) Milan (Linate) Bologna Pula Nice Pisa
Alicante Murcia Malaga Faro
Lanzarote TenerifeGran Canaria
Try our online route map You can view our destinations and book your ﬂight directly from our route map. Perfect for viewing from your tablet, it is built using Google maps so no need to install any software, just browse and book!
Our Middle East and Australasia Route Network You can book flights from Dublin to destinations in the Middle East and Australia via London Heathrow and Abu Dhabi. Visit aerlingus.com for more information.
Kuala Lumpur Singapore
Aer Lingus routes via Abu Dhabi (Operated by our codeshare partner Etihad Airways) Aer Lingus routes via London Heathrow (Operated by our codeshare partner British Airways)
Staying connected on board*
Choose how you access the internet on board. We have three options for you to select.
THE SMARICTE CHO
UP TO 50MB
UP TO 120MB
UP TO 250MB
Mobile Network on board
With our onboard mobile network, AeroMobile, you can use your phone for text, email and internet browsing, just like you would on the ground**. Stay connected even as you cross the Atlantic.
1 Switch on
Wi-Fi on board in six steps
On our A330 aircraft you can stay in touch with everything that matters, even when you’re in the air. Here’s how to connect your Wi-Fi enabled devices.
1 Switch on
Switch on your mobile when it is safe to do so, keeping it on silent or vibrate mode. Ensure you switch off ﬂight safe mode.
Once the safety belt sign has been switched off, turn on your device and connect to the Telekom HotSpot Network. SSID: Aer_Lingus_WiFi
Wait for the AeroMobile network signal to appear. If your device does not connect automatically, manually select the AeroMobile network through network settings.
Launch or refresh the browser to connect to the Aer Lingus portal. You can browse aerlingus.com for free along with some of our partners’ sites.
3 Welcome SMS
Click the ‘Buy Internet Access’ button and choose a plan.
Once connected you will receive a welcome SMS from AeroMobile. You may also receive a pricing message from your mobile operator. International roaming rates apply.
You can now use your phone for SMS, MMS, email and browsing the internet. ** Voice calls are disabled and are not permitted during ﬂight. Remember to manage your settings to avoid automatic data download and roaming charges.
International roaming rates apply from your mobile phone operator 146 |
3 Purchase Internet Access
Select your payment method which is processed via a secure connection. Credit card, roaming, iPass, PayPal or Deutsche Telekom accounts are accepted.
5 Username and Password
Enter a username and password. You need to remember these if you wish to change device.
You can now browse, email and surf the internet… enjoy! *A330 aircraft only.
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AerClub is our way of recognising and rewarding our regular flyers. When you fly with Aer Lingus you collect Tier Credits and Avios. Find out ways to make the most of your membership.
Unlocking the benefits of AerClub The more you fly, the more Tier Credits you earn, the higher up the tiers you move whilst unlocking even greater benefits. You can also collect Avios with Aer Lingus and our airline, retail and travel partners. How can I spend my Avios? You can spend your Avios on reward flights with Aer Lingus and AerClub partner airlines, as well as on hotel stays, car hire and travel experiences such as city tours, helicopter rides, hot air ballooning and lots more. Get the details right! In order to get all the benefits to which you are entitled, ensure that your profile name (first name, last name) matches your passport name exactly. If this needs to be updated, contact AerClub via the Aer Lingus website and provide a copy of your passport as proof of ID. To update your email and postal addresses, log into your AerClub profile from your desktop and amend in the ‘My Details’ section.
AerClub Tier Benefits
Spend Avios on flights Earn Tier Credits on Aer Lingus flights Exclusive AerClub member reward offers Tier Bonus on collecting Avios Priority check-in Fast track Priority boarding Lounge access for the card holder Partner airline lounge access*
• Check out our short videos about AerClub at aerlingus.com/aerclub.
Guaranteed seat on full flight†
Enjoy your flight and happy collecting! aerlingus.com/aerclub
Collect Avios with our retail, travel and leisure partners
Lounge access for a guest
• Sign up for AerClub mailings in the ‘My Details’ section of your profile to hear about competitions, events and offers.
Collect Avios every time you fly
How do I check my balance? Avios and Tier Credit balances can be viewed in the ‘My AerClub’ section while logged into your AerClub profile. Remember to add your AerClub number to all your Aer Lingus and AerClub partner airline bookings to unlock your travel benefits. To learn more about how to make the most of your membership:
• Download the Aer Lingus and Avios apps.
Priority wait list Complimentary upgrade** Designated help desk Companion ticket**
Free Wi-Fi on long haul Waive change and cancellation fees for all bookings‡ Complimentary membership Travel earlier than scheduled
* Where available. ** Subject to availability. † If a flight is fully booked we will guarantee you a confirmed reservation on the flight. Benefit only applies to Economy Class and must be booked 24 hours in advance. Only two Concierge members can avail of this benefit on any particular flight. ‡ Change or cancel your flight without incurring any change fees or refund administration fees. This benefit covers change fees only and any fare difference must be paid.
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TRIP OF A LIFETIME | ATHENS
A chance meeting on a ﬂight 20 years ago helped Professor Michael Scott fall in love with the Greek capital – over and over.
go to Athens now several times a year. But the ﬁrst time I went (20 years ago this year), my luggage went missing and was never found – needless to say I was not ﬂying Aer Lingus. I spent my ﬁrst week touring Athens and Greece in the same pair of jeans I ﬂew out in, and a couple of T-shirts bought from a Greek supermarket (I’ve still got one as a memento). I was 17. And I loved it. It felt – at that stage in my life – like the trip of a lifetime. The city was for me a whole new experience: noisy, chaotic, bustling, full of drama, mystery and – of course – history. I know many people who don’t like Athens and I can understand why. The chaotic, frenetic, nature of the city at ﬁrst meeting puts many oﬀ. I was the same – I remember spending my ﬁrst meal in Athens huddled in the McDonald’s in Syntagma Square as a homely refuge from the cosmopolitan tumult outside. But it was also on that ﬁrst trip to Athens that I ended up
discovering the tricks that helped me to get to grips with the city and, ultimately, to fall in love with it. I must attribute this discovery to the Greek man I sat next to on the plane. He gave me three pieces of advice. The ﬁrst was to ﬁnd a good Greek café. My favourites nowadays are in Thissio, where there is a mass of outdoor cafés with good views of the Acropolis. The second most important thing he told me was to get your coﬀee order right. Greek coﬀee looks like an espresso but usually has a thick layer of coﬀee/ sugar mix in the bottom of the cup. It’s a great drink (and you can always play the game of can-I-get-awaywith-another-sip-before-I-drinkcoﬀee-grinds), but an even better one, he recommended, is “ freddo”: a fresh espresso shot mixed with sugar, poured over ice (and with cold milk foam if you want the freddo cappuccino version). Look at any Greek café and you will see Greeks making one of these drinks last for hours – as they sit and chat with their friends, play tavli (backgammon), or just sit and watch
Acropolis now – Michael has found plenty to love about the ancient city of Athens.
the world go by. And that is the key thing. You may be drinking coﬀee but the goal is really to relax, to let the fast-paced world move around you without being caught up in it. The third piece of advice the man gave me was to ﬁnd a high spot from which to look down on the city. On that ﬁrst trip to Athens, I discovered Pnyx hill – the archaeological site where the ancient Greeks used to meet for their democratic assemblies – and on subsequent trips I also found Lycabettus hill (so called “wolf hill” as it was outside the boundaries of the ancient city). Either at sunset is ideal. From both you get staggering views of Athens itself (and you don’t have to pay the Acropolis entry fee). On that ﬁrst trip, standing on the Pnyx, I saw the white shimmering city of Athens spread out below me stretching to the hills that surround it on every side. I saw the mesmerising blue sheen of the Aegean Sea in the distance. I had a stellar view of the Acropolis with its Pentelic marble temples glowing amber in the evening sun. The noise of the city subsided to a pleasant hum and the sounds of nature crept back in. What I took from my view on the Pnyx was a sense of perspective and a sense of the city’s beauty that stayed with me when I descended back into the helter-skelter experience of the city itself. And armed with that (along with a few more coﬀees, not to mention some excellent Greek food) I found myself suddenly loving the hustle and bustle of the city. I have never been into the Syntagma Square McDonald’s since. Ancient Invisible Cities: Cairo, Istanbul and Athens, with Professor Michael Scott, will begin airing on September 7 on BBC2.
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