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Cara Magazine October/November 2013

October/November 2013

Actress Antonia Campbell Hughes

Customer magazine of the year

The Wine Geese

Grape escape

The flight of the Irish Wine Geese

Cultural Cork

Cinematic Chicago

Take a film tour of The Windy City

Chicago

Deeply dishy

Taste Toronto’s best

Toronto

Treasure island

Lanzarote with kids

Lanzarote Munich San Francisco Madrid

Next stop Hollywood? Antonia Campbell Hughes talks fear, fashion and film

Paris2Nice

Rebel cause Cork’s culture scene

complimentary copy


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Contents OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2013

74

In the swim – Lanzarote

30 From comedy to dark romance – Antonia Campbell Hughes

60

Flying high in Chicago

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Features

Regulars

06 ARRIVALS We meet incoming holidaymakers at Dublin Airport’s T2

30 AGAINST THE TIDE Actor Antonia Campbell Hughes tells Tony ClaytonLea why she prefers challenging roles

98 48 HOURS IN SAN FRANCISCO Jules Older hearts the city

09 CHECK IN Arts and culture, London happenings and spooky festivals, we’ve got the best of the season 20 ON MY TRAVELS Mr Movember, Neil Rooney twirls his moustache 22 MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK Designer Orla Kiely shares her holiday musts 24 SMART TRAVELLER Michael Walsh on Amsterdam, plus Helsinki’s business stays 26 SHELF LIFE Bridget Hourican talks short stories with writer Colin Barrett and leafs through travel memoirs 28 ACCESS ALL AREAS Lucy White sneaks a look behind closed doors at Open House

36 ON THE VINE Mary Dowey meets the new wave of Irish wine-makers in southern France 48 ART OF THE CITY Cork is buzzing with artists, dancers and musicians; Eithne Shortall goes culture vulturing 60 SCENE SETTER Film buff Philip Nolan goes on location in Chicago 74 UNDER THE VOLCANOES Kidfriendly breaks in Lanzarote 86 A NOSE JOB Something’s cooking in Toronto; and Dick Snyder is on the scent 104 5 REASONS TO VISIT MUNICH Surfing, scoffing or shopping; Lucy White goes cool hunting

101 AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO MADRID Tara Mavrikis’s favourite spots in the Spanish capital 111 AER LINGUS INFLIGHT All the movies, TV, music and information you need for your flight 136 TRIP OF A LIFETIME Aer Lingus’s Willie McGonagle cycles Paris2Nice in aid of the Special Olympics

48

Cork cuppas


Contributors

Art Art Director Clare Meredith ADVertIsInG Commercial Director Clodagh Edwards +353 (0)1 271 9634, clodagh.edwards@image.ie Advertising Manager Noëlle O’Reilly +353 (0)1 271 9621, noelle.oreilly@image.ie Advertising Copy Contact Derek Skehan +353 (0)1 855 3855, dereks@typeform.ie

Photographers Sean Breithaupt and Yvette Monahan have worked under the same umbrella since they met studying photography in Melbourne. They shoot for editorial, design and advertising commissions, but pursue their own projects alongside. Yvette won the Portfolio Award at PhotoIreland Festival 2013 and has exhibited her project The Time of Dreaming the World Awake countrywide. “Shooting the feature on Cork for Cara was a lovely project,” says the pair (see page 48), “as it allowed us to get under the city’s skin, experience the vibrant arts scene – and meet some great characters.”

Publisher Richard Power ADMInIstrAtIon Head of Pr & Promotions Linda McEvitt, +353 (0)1 271 9643, linda.mcevitt@image.ie events Manager Roisin Finnegan Financial Controller Olga Gordeychuk Credit Controller Lisa Dickenson BoArD oF DIreCtors Managing Director Richard Power, richard.power@image.ie Chairman Robert Power Directors Ann Reihill, Gina Traynor, Patrick Dillon-Malone, Laura George PrIntInG Boylan Print Group orIGInAtIon Typeform Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Image Publications, 22 Crofton Road, Dun Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland, +353 (0)1 280 8415; advertising sales, +353 (0)1 271 9625; fax +353 (0)1 280 8309; image.ie, email info@image.ie. Company registration number 56663 © Image Publications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of Aer Lingus or IMAGE Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus and IMAGE Publications Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from IMAGE Publications Ltd.

Cara magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland. IMAGE Publications Ltd is a member of the Press Council of Ireland and supports the Office of the Press Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit pressombudsman.ie or presscouncil.ie

Dick Snyder publishes and edits Toronto’s CityBites magazine (citybites.ca), which covers food and dining in the city and beyond. Capturing the salient points about Toronto’s burgeoning gourmet culture, see page 86, was a daunting task. “I tried to think from a visitor’s point of view. If I were in Toronto for the first time, where would I need to eat? But there are a zillion possibilities. So just go wander around!” Snyder also writes about travel and culture for a variety of magazines and websites. This winter, he’ll be visiting Mexico and Spain.

October/November 2013

Customer magazine of the year

Grape escape

The flight of the Irish Wine Geese

Cinematic Chicago Take a film tour of The Windy City

IMAGE Publications Ltd –

PUBLISHING COMPANY OF THE YEAR 2010 to ADVertIse PLEASE CALL NOËLLE O’REILLY ON +353 (0)1 271 9621 OR EMAIL NOELLE.OREILLY@IMAGE.IE

Deeply dishy

Taste Toronto’s best

Treasure island Lanzarote with kids

Next stop Hollywood? Antonia Campbell Hughes talks fear, fashion and film

Rebel cause Cork’s Culture sCene

complimentary copy

on tHe CoVer

From left, Mick O’Shea, Irene Murphy and David Upton of The Guesthouse, a Cork artists’ collective project. Photographed by Sean Breithaupt and Yvette Monahan.

LEN

Group editorial Director Laura George

Philip Nolan is an award-winning journalist and travel writer who says the most unsettling ten days of his life came earlier this year as he waited for his passport to be renewed. “I felt oddly housebound,” he says. He was delighted when Cara asked him to visit Chicago, see page 60, his fifth visit to the Windy City. “I flew in and out of O’Hare on a trip to Phoenix in 1987,” he says. “From the air, the skyline and the lake looked extraordinary and I knew I had to go. Five months later, I did, and fell in love. New York belongs to the world so, for me, Chicago always will be the quintessential American city.”

PHOTOGRAPH BY jOH N CUL

eDItorIAl editor Frances Power Deputy editor Lucy White editorial Assistant Niamh Wade Contributors Sive O’Brien, Amanda Cochrane, Liz Dwyer


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who? Dylan McMahon and Cathy Toal Flying in From Faro here For ... Happy couple Dylan and Cathy are home after a week of sunshine in Albufeira.

who? Cormac Reilly with son Evan Flying in From Faro here For ... This father and son team are back in Ireland after twelve days of fun in Portugal.

who? Andrea Andreoli and girlfriend Selina Schnyder Flying in From Zurich here For ... a twelve day road trip around Ireland. Seeing the south and visiting Clonmacnoise are high on their must-see list.

Arrivals

Golf, Connemara and a pint of Guinness – all are on our visitors’ hot lists. Cara magazine greets some newly arrived Aer Lingus passengers at Dublin’s T2.

who? Gail Cummins Flying in From London Heathrow here For ... Gail is home after visiting family in London.

WoRDS By NIAMH WADE/PHoToGRAPHS By ANTHoNy WooDS

who From left, Rosanne Hartwick and Terri Maguire with Rocky the dog Flying From Frankfurt here For ... Rosanne – and her welcoming party – plan to celebrate her father’s 85th birthday.

who? Moritz Stolzenburg Flying in From Frankfurt here For ... Moritz is in Ireland to hang out with friends in the North and is looking forward to a pint of Guinness.

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OctOber/NOvember 2013

who? From left, Ingrid Wilson, Polly Wilson and Joerg Grossbongardt Flying in From Berlin here For ... Joerg, Ingrid and Polly are spending their holidays sightseeing in Connemara.

who? From left, Neil Thomas and Tony Armitage Flying in From Edinburgh here For ... Scotsmen Neil and Thomas are spending three days in Dublin before heading off to play golf in Ballybunion, Co Kerry, and Rosapenna, Co Donegal.


Clodagh’s Kitchen

Orla Kiely

Appleby

Whatever’s next, since 1843.

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This iconic building on Dublin’s Henry Street is Ireland’s largest and longest established department store. Arnotts is home to the world’s best in beauty, fashion for men and women, homewares, all the latest in technology and Ireland’s largest and loveliest shoe department, The Shoe Garden. There are several places to eat, including Clodagh’s Kitchen, in which everything is homemade by celebrity chef Clodagh McKenna. In other words, Arnotts is more than just shopping. It is an experience.

Shop online www.arnotts.ie Arnotts, 12 Henry Street, Dublin 1 / 01 805 0400

Like us on Facebook! ‘Arnotts Department Store’

Follow us on Twitter! ‘@arnottsdublin’


Blarney Castle & Gardens Renowned for bestowing the gift of eloquence See and feel Irelands heritage, built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains. Spend the day exploring the extensive grounds and gardens.

Open all year round 5 miles from Cork Open Monday- Sunday 9-6 www.blarneycastle.ie info@blarneycastle.ie c

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Find out what’s on, where and when in October/November

Gorgeous Georgians

Two of Ireland’s most luxurious hotels have joined forces to host Irish art weekends in their respective Georgian piles, offering a night and fine dining in each. Forming quite a diptych, Dublin’s Merrion Hotel and Co Laois’s Ballyfin, interior pictured, showcase their impressive private collections on October 11-13, April 4-6 and 11-13, with experts from the National Gallery of Ireland providing a private tour of the former on day one, and curator and historian William Laffan at the latter on day two. “Inspiring Irish Art Weekends” cost from €2,727 per couple, all-inclusive. merrionhotel.com / ballyfin.com


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BeauTy

Tricks’n’treats By Liz Dwyer.

FaMIly

High spirits Ireland has some fun Hallowe’en shenanigans this year. As the birthplace of the Dracula author, Dublin hosts the Bram Stoker Festival from October 26-28 (bramstokerfestival.com), which includes walking tours, literary talks, live music and film screenings for all ages. In Ratoath, Co Meath, Tattersalls Country House’s prime aim from October 25 to November 3 is giving everyone the willies at its drive-in Movies event (tattersallscountryhouse.ie). By day, kid-friendly flicks (Cars, Back to the Future) show, by night, pure horror (Saw, The Shining). And there are gourds galore at the virginia pumpkin Festival, above, October 25-31 (pumpkinfestival. ie), ripe with haunted forest walks, firework displays, a treasure hunt and – of course – the giant pumpkin weigh-in.

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STay

4 best ... haunted houses for Hallowe’en

Malahide Castle

Where Co Dublin Fear factor This greedy castle dating back to the 12th century is thought to have no less than five ghosts, the most inventive spectral sighting of which is Roundhead Miles Corbett, to whom Cromwell bequeathed the property. Corbett was eventually hung, drawn and quartered, his ghost appearing to fall into four pieces ... hallowe’enery See the castle’s website for event updates. malahidecastleandgardens.ie

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october/november 2013

Morris-Jumel Mansion

Where 65 Jumel Terrace, New York Fear factor In 1832, mansion owner Stephen Jumel mysteriously expired on a pitchfork, prompting his widow, Eliza, not to mourn but to remarry her politician beau, Aaron Burr. This spectral ménage a trois is said to haunt the 1765-built property, as does a soldier and a servant. Busy. hallowe’enery Scare yourself silly at a paranormal sleepover on November 2. morrisjumel.org

Castello di Poppi

Where Poppi, Tuscany Fear factor This castle dating back to the 12th century remains the stomping grounds of the beautiful strumpet Matelda, who, legend has it, murdered a string of lovers for kicks. She was eventually interned in the walls of the “Torre dei Diavoli” (Devils’ Tower) – and handsome men can still feel Matelda’s icy breath down their necks today. hallowe’enery Open on October 31. castellodipoppi.it

Chillingham Castle, Northumberland

Where Alnwick, Northumberland Fear factor Chill by name, chill by nature, this medieval pile – now also a hotel (gulp) – has a dungeon and torture chambers. The howling of the Blue Boy ghost was traced to one bedroom where the bones of a lad were found buried in the wall with a pile of blue clothes. Brrrr. hallowe’enery Ghost tours from October 3 to November 7 (over 16s). chillingham-castle.com


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DesigN

Modernist masterpieces

Irish Modernist Eileen Gray (1878-1976) is having a moment. Signalling the reopening of the Irish Museum of Modern Art, Dublin, after two years of extensive renovations, Architect Painter Designer offers a comprehensive overview – including the iconic tubular steel and glass table designed to catch crumbs while taking breakfast in bed at her villa, E-1027, on the French Riviera – plus previously unseen works. She is also the subject of an upcoming film biopic, Price of Desire, scenes of which were shot at E-1027 this summer. Dublin actress Orla Brady plays Gray opposite Vincent Perez as her nemesis Le Corbusier, with Northern Ireland’s Mary McGuckian directing and costumes by Peter O’Brien. Architect Painter Designer runs October 12 to January 19, 2014. imma.ie spOrT

nciding CARRY ON FUNDRAISING Coi Awareness with October’s Breast Cancer limited Month, Tommy Hilfiger’s new ast edition tote raises funds for Bre ing Liv Health International’s Fund for campaign. Made from resilient Italian leather, it’s big enough for all those travel essentials. €300 at tommy.com and at its Grafton Street store, with €100 going to the charity.

Horsing around Not to be confused with the Peter Schaffer play made famous by a starkers Daniel “Harry Potter” Radcliffe, equus Live is a strictly family-oriented celebration of the horse. The indoor event from November 2-3 at Punchestown Racecourse, Co Kildare, is the first of its kind in Ireland, featuring equine stars, demonstrations, talks, competitions and shopping. There’s also a free Kiddie Zone, should little ones tire of their new four-legged friends. equuslive.com Opera

DaNCe

Getting Bizet with it Expect sparks to fly in Ballet Ireland’s modern-day reimagining of Carmen, the eponymous gypsy woman from Seville who draws men like moths to a flame. Choreographer Morgann RunacreTemple uses Bizet’s score to tantalising effect in a production touring the length and breadth of Ireland, from the Draoícht, in Blanchardstown, Dublin, on October 26 to the Source Arts Centre in Thurles, Co Tipperary, on December 19. balletireland.ie

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october/november 2013

A breath of fresh aria Showing no signs of ageing on its 62nd birthday, this year’s Wexford Opera Festival is chock-a-block with 58 events from October 23 to November 3. Highlights include a double bill of rarely seen works, Thérèse and La Navarraise, by Jules Massenet, and festival opener Il Cappello di Paglia di Firenze (The Florentine Straw Hat, with soprano Claudia Boyle, pictured), whose composer Nino Rota wrote the The Godfather series’ film score. Those of a limited attention span may consider the ShortWorks programme of onehour performances, including an abridged La Traviata. wexfordopera.com.


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White heat

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Lucy White talks to Marco Pierre White about his new Dublin restaurant. “You look in a magazine and think, ‘that looks like a nice restaurant’ and then you turn up and it’s soulless and cold. Designers tend to create a look and not a feel – and if you don’t feel comfortable you’re not going to enjoy yourself, simple as that.” Master chef Marco Pierre White is sure that diners will find comfort in his new venture, Marco Pierre White The Courtyard Bar and Grill in Donnybrook, the sibling of his Dawson Street steakhouse. Ultimately, he concedes, “it’s about great quality ingredients – all we do is put our energy into the cooking of them. I also think people have had enough of ‘knick-knack cuisine’, the twelve courses. Food should be honest, at any level. If a main cost me €30, I want to see that amount on my plate. I’m very basic like that. Honesty is the key.” marcopierrewhite.ie

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What are your three favourite eateries in the world? I’m very fond of La Colombe d’Or in the south of France (lacolombe-dor.com) – it’s extraordinary, with the artwork, just magical. I’m also very fond of Harry’s Bar in Venice (harrysbarvenezia.com) – Venice is just dreamy

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and so beautiful. I do like having my breakfast in the gardens of the Chateau Marmont in LA (chateaumarmont.com). It’s one of my favourite hotels in the world. I like the fact that it’s very 1950s, it’s very nice, very understated. That garden is my favourite place in LA.”

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ish flagging il you drop in Dublin – replen PEP TALK No need to shop unt ee Clodagh ent store with the choice of thr energy levels at Arnotts departm memade Kitchen restaurant (Level 2), Ho McKenna eateries: Clodagh’s otts.ie dagh’s Bakery (both Level 1). arn by Clodagh Food Court and Clo

Vintage cocktail bars Speakeasies are – obviously – nothing new but Dublin only recently starting riding on the furtive coattails of those in New York, London and Berlin. If a modern-day speakeasy is defined by a clandestine entrance, artisanal cocktails and a strict reservations policy, often via Twitter, in Dublin there’s Vintage Cocktail Club (vintagecocktailclub.com), The Blind Pig (@ BlindPigDublin), and while, not a speakeasy per se, The Liquor Rooms, above, in the Clarence Hotel’s basement, ticks all those vaudevillian mixology boxes. And if you like those, you’ll like … PARIS Little Red door, all exposed brickwork, innovative cocktails and a Manhattan vibe (lrdparis.com) … LONdON Nightjar, for 1920s styling, vintage glassware and live jazz (barnightjar.com) … NEW YORK PdT Shorthand for Please Don’t Tell, this is no longer a secret, but entering the bar through a vintage phone booth never fails to amuse (pdtnyc.com).

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october/november 2013

FOOd

Making a splash Nancy Rockett dives right into The Great Bath Feast. What’s it all about? Food, glorious food. Whether flummery floats your boat or craft beer is your poison, it’s all here in the shape of tastings, demonstrations, master classes, cinema suppers, children’s workshops, street parties and more. What to expect? Top chefs and cooks descending on the Georgian spa town, including Angela Hartnett, Hugh FearnleyWhittingstall, Raymond Blanc, Michael Caines and, Britain’s baker du jour, Mary Berry. Highlights? Tickets for the fundraising banquet at Bath Abbey helmed by a raft of Michelin-starred chefs sold out quicker than one can say “soggy

bottom”, but there’s plenty more besides, including the inaugural Bath Chilli Festival, food and beer matching events, and a vegetarian cookery school. The details … The Great Bath Feast runs from October 1-31. greatbathfeast.co.uk


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3 first-class hotels ...

SPOTLIGHT LONDON What’s moving and shaking in London this season …

Top Table Six months after it opened, chef and restaurateur Jason Atherton, left, bagged Mayfair’s Pollen Street Social a Michelin star. He has since turned his hand to berners Tavern at the new London EDITION hotel of Ian “Studio 54” Schrager fame. Purveying a “contemporary British menu” – sample dish: Orkney scallop carpaccio served with avocado, radish, jalapeño and lime – the all-day eatery complements the hotel’s urban take on an English country manor. edition-hotels.marriott.com

3 seasonal event highlights ...

CINeMa bFI london Film Fest makes a 57th outing this October 9-20, the opening movie, Captain Phillips – the true story of a US ship hijacked by Somali pirates in 2009 – starring Tom Hanks. Ireland is represented by Michael Fassbender in Steve McQueen’s 12 Years a Slave and Alan Gilsenan’s doc on Eliza Lynch, the Corkborn lover of 19th-century dictator Francisco Solano López. bfi.org.uk/lff

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FaMIlY SKaTe Somerset House will be transformed into a winter wonderland this November 14 to January 5, with ice-skating for all ages, late-night DJs from Moshi Moshi and Ministry of Sound, Wayne and Geraldine Hemingway’s Vintage Festival, a pop-up shopping arcade, festive soireés, Michelin-starred nibbles and cocktails devised by Tom Aikens, and more. somersethouse.org. uk/skate

october/november 2013

pop-Up lQ @ Chateau Marmot LA pop-up pioneer and chef Laurent Quenioux makes his UK debut with London whippersnappers Danielle Treanor and Theo Cooper aka Chateau Marmot. Their six-course taster dinner costs £45, wine flights from £27; four-course brunch at £24. As is the pop-up way, its East London location is top secret, tickets for October/ November sittings available at grubclub.com.

bUDGeT Z Victoria Beside Victoria Station, the Z hotel offers a lot of bang for its buck. There’s no lobby, just an area where breakfast appears at a large communal table, and drinks and nibbles are served in the evening. Snug rooms are well-kitted out with wet room and 40-inch TVs. Rooms from £75. +44 20 3551 3700; thezhotels.com/victoria

MID-prICe The Ampersand Hotel A Victorian property in South Kensington, all 111 rooms were inspired by astronomy, ornithology and botany. There’s nothing fuddy-duddy about Ampersand however; trendy eatery Apero serves casual bites, and The Drawing Rooms offers high tea with champagne. Rooms from £194. +44 20 7589 5895; ampersandhotel.com

SplUrGe London Belgraves Minutes away from Hyde Park, the Belgraves echoes its upmarket neighbourhood. A chic colour palette runs throughout its 85 rooms, with accents of jewel-coloured upholstery offering a colour pop. In winter, curl up in the Library Bar and, in summer, take to the outdoor terrace. Rooms from £376. +44 20 7858 0100; thompsonhotels.com aer lINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN, CORK, SHANNON AND BELFAST TO loNDoN DAILY.


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october/november 2013


Wish you were here Twenty-eight year old Fábio Gibelli, left, is a Brazilian Gibelli photography student living in Ireland. Of his shot of Mykonos, Greece, he says: “I spent two amazing weeks on holiday in Greece this July with my friends. It is definitely one of the most beautiful places in the world. With so many lovely landscapes, beaches and villages, the sunset becomes a spectacular attraction, just like a living painting. Being passionate about photography, I watched everything through my lens and I confess these were some of the most impressive moments of my trip.”

Have you a stunning photograph of your trip to an Aer Lingus destination to share? Send it to us at cara.wishyouwerehere@image.ie and we’ll publish our favourite shot in the December/ January issue. The technicals Photographs must be a 300-dpi high resolution file and accompanied by a portrait of yourself and 100 words about the story behind the shot. The editor’s decision is final.

october/november 2013

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On my travels

Head of Movember charity, Neil Rooney, chats to Sive O’Brien about moustaches, and sailing the world. PHOTOGRAPH BY SEAN JAcKSON

Neil grew up in Dublin, but has spent much of his life on the high seas, sailing, cruising and racing after having caught the nautical bug as a lad. On land, his charity behemoth Movember has been just as significant, with millions of moustaches (“Mos”) sprouting up around the world during November in aid of prostate and testicular cancer research and mental health support. Last year, it raised €113 million globally. For events, movember.com. here are 1.1 million people … growing Mos right now for the charity. It’s now a globally recognised movement, with offices in six countries, from Auckland to Dublin to LA so I travel long-haul to collaborate and strategise, and often to the European headquarters in London. Travel as a child was spent … on the slopes. My parents were 1980s ski freaks so instead of heading to the sun each year, we’d break out the neon onesies and head for the Alps. The most life-changing trip was … when I was 15, as one of the crew on the Galway Hooker St Patrick expedition to the Arctic, via Iceland and Spitsbergen. It was my first proper offshore sailing experience, and put a

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salty taste in my mouth that still makes me want to go to sea today. The scariest thing that happened at sea … was delivering a boat from the south of England to Newport, Rhode Island. The boat suddenly lurched violently. I had hit a whale. Unfortunate for him, obviously, but unfortunate for us too – we lost all power, and were reliant on a sextant and dead reckoning to try and find the Azores ... “land ahoy” never sounded so good. The funniest thing that happened while travelling … was when a crewmember burnt himself on the boat’s stove. He jumped overboard to cool off, climbed back on board only to step back and fall down an open hatch – pure slapstick genius.

The ultimate escape is … lying on a white sand beach without another soul in sight. Monkey Bay on the north of Tioman Island in Malaysia is a good bet. My best travel memory … was Santorini, Greece, with my wife Johanna before our son Orpen was born, to enjoy quiet time before our lives got noisy. I’ve never been happier watching the sunset together knowing the little guy was on his way. Last year, I … did a lap of the world in a month, taking in Ko Tao for some diving, Melbourne, LA, the SXSW festival in Austin, and topped if off in New York for St Patrick’s Day. I’d definitely return to … Kvinesdal in southern Norway, a friend of mine has an old fishing cabin that’s tucked away in the woods. Bliss.

3 best volunteer breaks ...

FUNDAcIó MONA

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october/november 2013

The only Primate Rescue Centre outside of Africa is just outside Girona in Northern Spain. Volunteers here work with the chimpanzees, left, from preparing meals to compiling behavioural study data. Who could resist being surrounded by these cheeky chaps all day? responsibletravel.com

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Aspiring David Attenboroughs are invited to Florida Island Center, a wildlife rescue and rehabilitation facility just off the coast of Florida. combine sunshine and the study of birds, mammals and reptiles over a four-week trip, before releasing them back to the wild. fronteering.com

You could travel to … the four corners of the earth but there’s still nowhere quite like the west of Ireland. Even the thought of a walk or a spot of fishing followed by pints, seafood and good oldfashioned craic warms my soul. My best advice for the global traveller is … a hipflask of Irish whiskey will deliver more local travel tips than any Lonely Planet ever could. The most inspiring people I have met along the way ... is the entire Movember organisation. The team’s energy and dedication to men’s health inspires me every day, and the fact that it’s all made possible by guys growing moustaches is so bizarrely brilliant that you can’t help but laugh in the mirror each morning … or maybe it’s just because I have a ginger Mo?

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For an unforgettable weekend away, reach out to seriously ill children and their families at Barretstown, co Kildare. Food and board are provided for the Family Weekend Volunteer, who is trained on the Saturday morning before embarking on adventurous memory-making. barretstown.org


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My travel notebook The Irish fashion and textile designer, orla kiely has gone global, constantly jetting between the US and Asia, to oversee the collaborations she is working on (lucky Dubliners can browse her concessions in Arnotts). Here, she talks to Liz Dwyer about her travel essentials. Susannagh Grogan silk scarf, €195 at susannagh grogan.com

your Favourite restaurant in the world? “The Post Ranch Inn, Big Sur. Perched on top of a high mountain. Delicious food and the view is amazing!”

“My capsule packing essentials ... Simple dresses, sunglasses and a scarf.”

your most terriFying travel moment? “Driving with my family over icy mountains in Iceland. I was very happy we made it down the other side!”

orla Kiely mohair sweater, €275 at Arnotts, 12 Henry Street, Dublin 1

Denim dress, €36 at Miss Selfridge

your Favourite holiday memory? “Learning to fish on the Blackwater River in Ireland with my family. It was so much fun.”

Marni sandals, €380 at marni.com

Orla Kiely’s carry-on essentials ... 1 By Terry Baume de Rose, €52 at Harvey Nichols, Dundrum 2 NARS Pure Matte Lipstick in Strawberry Red, €24 at House of Fraser, Dundrum 3 Bloom and Blossom Rejuvenating Facial Spritz, €18.50 at beautyboutique.com 4 orla Kiely Geranium Hand Cream, €13 at Kilkenny shop 5 Coach Colourblock Bag, €325 at Arnotts

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your best hotel For work? “The Petit Moulin in Paris in the heart of the Marais – it’s beautiful, central and has that certain je ne sais quoi.”

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PHoToG RAPH

top oF your reading list? “Grace by Grace Coddington, it’s about Vogue’s fascinating creative director.”

By STEVE Ry AN

AJ Morgan Mr Cleaver sunglasses, €19.50

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Smart Traveller|

Business stays in Helsinki and the best oysters in Amsterdam, Lisa Hughes has the lowdown.

LittLe BLack Book AMSTERDAM As marketing director of Irish footwear and clothing brand Dubarry, Michael Walsh flies regularly to the company’s offices in England and the US, but his favourite city to work in is Amsterdam.

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BEST BUSINESS HOTELS IN HELSINKI

AMSTERDAM PHOTOGRAPH By ANTHONy WOODS

1 “My last business trip … Was to Lanzarote to visit the base of Team SCA Sailing, an all-female crew, who are taking part in the 2014/15 Volvo Ocean Race. They used our off-shore sailing boot, Dubarry Crosshaven, and we were reviewing performance and their requirements going forward. Amsterdam is great for business travel because … The city is easy to get around. There’s free Wi-Fi everywhere and everyone speaks English. Best place for business meetings … The RAI conference centre (Europaplein 1078, +31 20 549 1212; rai.nl) is a good place to get things done. It’s convenient to both airport and city centre, and is train/tram accessible. For a less formal meeting, the

atmosphere at Freddy’s Bar in Hotel de L'Europe (Nieuwe Doelenstraat 2-14, +31 20 531 1777; leurope.nl/ freddys) is excellent. Watch the world go by on the canal outside the window or try one of their Bloody Marys after a hard day’s work! Business lunch … The fish dishes in Sichuan Food (Reguliersdwarsstraat 35, +31 20 626 9327; sichuanfood. nl) are excellent, especially the oysters, while the Teppanyaki-style restaurant Sazanka (Hotel Okura, Ferdinand Bolstraat 333, +31 20 678 7450, sazanka.nl) is excellent and entertaining to watch. Best spot for business drinks … Our ‘HQ’ in Amsterdam is the Hoppe Bar (Spuistraat, +31 20 420 4420, cafehoppe.com).

TravEL TaKEaway … With their linenbound covers and snazzy design, Insight Select Guides are a stylish addition to any suitcase. Destinations include Paris, Chicago, London and more. $15 available at bookstores and at insightguides.com.

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It has an eclectic mix of academics, business people and artists. A good place to work and play. Best business hotel … The Grand Hotel Krasnapolsky (Dam Square 9, +31 20 795 6088; nh-hotels.nl), which is conveniently located on the famous Dam square, opposite the Royal Palace and beside De Bijenkorf, one of Amsterdam’s finest department stores. Visiting Amsterdam for the first time … Be warned, wait times for taxis can be very long at rush hour. My advice is to download a taxi app before you fly and familiarise yourself with the tram system. On your downtime in this city … Take a canal tour and see one of the many excellent museums.”

KLAUS K Established Finnish designers Riiko Sakkinen, Katja Tukiainen, Harri Koskinen and Jani Leinonen have come together to create themed rooms for Klaus K, a superb design hotel in Helsinki’s city centre. Guests can use a 24-hour gym, free internet, sauna and a day spa, or have a meeting in the impressive lobby spread across three floors. (Bulevardi 2-4, +358 20 770 4700; klauskhotel.com) RADISSON BLU PLAZA HOTEL Situated in the city centre, this hotel boasts 302 modern rooms and suites in a historic building from 1917. Facilities include a restaurant and bar, fitness room and conference rooms equipped with audiovisual technology, data projectors, free high-speed internet and a “Brain Food” menu, for optimum efficiency as well as keeping the hunger pangs at bay. (Mikonkatu 23, +358 20 123 4703; radissonblu.com/plazahotel-helsinki) SCANDIC HOTEL SIMONKENTTÄ This sleek business hotel comes with stunning city views, green credentials and colourful décor across 360 rooms and three suites. Guests can look forward to a large breakfast buffet, free Wi-Fi, a modern gym, 24/7 shop and meeting rooms for up to 80 people. Dine al fresco on the terrace on a sunny day and take in the view. (Simonkatu 9, +358 968 380; scandichotels.com)

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Bryan Dunne Partner

Head of Employment

The first rule of success Surround yourself with the best The success of any law firm can be measured by the quality of its people and its clients. We have the best of both. Bryan leads a team of experienced lawyers who advise leading international companies and financial institutions on all aspects of employment law.

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Matheson. The law firm of choice for international companies and financial institutions doing business in and through Ireland.

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Contact Bryan at bryan.dunne@matheson.com or get in touch with your usual Matheson contact.

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London

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Shelf Life|

Bridget Hourican gets lost in a history of the library, and talks short stories with Mayo man Colin Barrett.

Who’s reading what?

ADMONT ABBey lIBRARy, AUSTRIA, 1776 / wIll pRyCe

Mayo author Colin Barrett.

WhaT is yoUr debUT sTory CoLLeCTioN, YOUNG SKINS, aboUT? Trying to figure out when to stay put, hold the fort, keep one’s counsel, and when to let loose, break cover and show your real face. hoW MUCh oF iTs ToWN, GLaNbeiGh, is FiCTioNaL? Though it has its inspiration in certain towns of the west of Ireland, there is no direct correspondence to any single location. Glanbeigh’s most distinctive feature is probably its geographic plasticity – the size and layout shifts according to the demands of each story. Where do yoU UsUaLLy WriTe? Sitting upright at a desk is too formal for me. Most writers probably develop early on the The Library: a WorLd hisTory ability to write when they can, with where by James WP Campbell being a largely incidental consideration. So and Will Pryce anywhere at home: in bed, on the sofa, etc. Across 300 lavishly illustrated pages, LosT I regularly write on buses and trains. The Library: A World History aNd FoUNd besT booK To TaKe oN a JoUrNey? (Thames and Hudson, £48.26 Steve Coogan stars in Something slim, physically light and from October 21) takes you Philomena, a film adaptation digestible in bursts, so a book of short through the world’s greatest of Martin Sixsmith’s book, The stories is perfect. Denis Johnson’s Jesus’ libraries – from the British Lost Child of Philomena Lee, Judi Son, Barry Hannah’s Airships, Flannery Museum to the National Dench playing the eponymous Irish O’Connor’s A Good Man is Hard Library of China, with our very own Trinity College mother whose teenage pregnancy to Find. Dublin featuring too. It spans over 2,000 bibliophilic in 1950s Roscrea sparked a aNd The WorsT? It’s a great book, but years, from the ancient ruins of the library of Pergamum life-long search for her son. the hardback edition of Roberto Bolano’s (197 BC) and the wonderfully preserved 13th-century Opens in Ireland / UK psychotropic 2666 is so big it defeats Buddhist library, Tripitaka Koreana in South Korea, all the November 1. metaphoric comparison even with a brick. way up to the recently completed Bodleian Storage Centre

near Swindon. Libraries of the future may be more electronic than print but they will remain as intellectual contemplative centres – as long as the “silence is golden” rule applies.

Young Skins (Stinging Fly) is out now in paperback, €12.99, and limited edition hardback, €30.

3 best travel autobiographies ... The Ministry of Guidance (Allen Lane, from November 7, £20). In 2010, Hooman Majd left Brooklyn with his American wife and their three-year-old son for a year’s stay in Tehran, where he grew up. Against the backdrop of the Arab Spring, Majd finds a bootlegger while his wife learns to master the headscarf ... 26 |

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On the Trail of Genghis Khan (Bloomsbury, from November 21, £20). Following in the horsehoofs of Genghis Khan, Australian Tim Cope rode the Eurasian steppe from Karakorum, the ancient capital of Mongolia, through to the Danube in Hungary. This book covers his 10,000-kilometre trek over three years.

The Train in Spain (Bloomsbury, from November 7, £14.69). History, landscape, people and personal impressions combine with charming hand-drawn illustrations in Christopher Howse’s fascinating book about his 5,000-kilometre journey through the wilds of Extremadura to the spaghetti western deserts of Andalucía.


Consult the big fish this side of the pond

Think Foreign Direct Investment into Ireland and there’s one name you need to know - Danske Bank. For more information, contact Stephen Mullin on +353 (0)1 484 2841 or stephen.mullin@danskebank.ie www.danskebank.ie

LC6417 Danske Bank A/S (trading as Danske Bank) is authorised by The Danish FSA in Denmark and is regulated by the Central Bank of Ireland for conduct of business rules.


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Access all areas

Sneak a peek into urban spaces big and small during October’s global Open House programme, says Lucy White. n 1992, London threw open the doors of architecturally significant buildings to the public for free. More than 20 years later, other cities have followed suit, with no less than seven locations inviting us through the keyhole this month alone: Dublin, October 4-6; Lisbon, October 5-6; Galway, October 11-15; New York, October 12-13; Barcelona and Chicago, October 1920, and Limerick, October 18-20. Featuring “great buildings, from the obvious to the overlooked” – as Open House Dublin is described by the Irish Architecture Foundation (IAT) – the international initiative has become a huge success for offering not only an insight into both iconic structures and private residences, but also including parallel events, from talks to children’s activities. Indeed, Dublin Open House has a whole “Juniors” programme that, despite the name, provides architecturally inspired entertainment for infants through to teenagers, with workshops, talks and walks. It’s also running a photo competition on Flickr and Instagram – for all ages – of snaps taken during the three-day event. In Lisbon, buildings of note

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include the Jerónimos monastery, Cinema São Jorge and D Maria II national theatre, while New Yorkers are spoilt for choice with a fiveborough-wide schedule to be revealed online on October 2. Barcelona – the first Mediterranean city to adopt Open Housedom, in 2010 – is keeping its cards close to its chest at the time of writing but, with more than 150 places on its books, there’s something for everyone. Chicago joined the Open House Family tree in 2011 and this year boasts 150 repurposed mansions, private clubs, offices, theatres and more. Now in its eighth year, Dublin has 100 snoopable spaces, among them “the obvious” (the National Library of Ireland, O’Connell Street’s General Post Office, site of the 1916 Easter Rising) and “the overlooked” (Terenure Synagogue, Trinity School of Nursing), while Galway is showcasing more than 30 hot spots, from the venerable Mutton Island Lighthouse to the contemporary Marine Institute. And, last but not least, Limerick makes its second Open House foray, a prelude of sorts to its upcoming coronation as Ireland’s first City of Culture in 2014. For full programme events, visit openhouseworldwide.org.

Well structured – in Dublin, Croke Park’s Etihad Skyline, above, and below, the fantastical Google HQ in Grand Canal Dock. Right, the surprisingly beautiful Newtown Creek Wastewater Treatment Plant, New York.

3 behind-the-scenes tours …

RoS kAvANAGh

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ABBEY THEATRE Until November 9 If the magic happens on stage, what goes on behind the red curtain of Ireland’s National Theatre? Join a guided tour scheduled to match the running dates of each play throughout the year – next up The Hanging Gardens by Frank McGuinness. €8, Wed-Fri 4pm, Sat noon. abbeytheatre.ie

october/november 2013

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ROCKEFELLER CENTER Daily An expert historian – and a headset – guides visitors through the 80-year history of the Art Deco icon known as the “city within a city”. A working building, its artworks by Leo Friedlander and Margaret Bourke-White are nothing short of marvellous. $17, tours depart hourly, rockefellercenter.com

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BERNABÉU STADIUM Various days Football fans can channel their inner Ronaldo on a tour of Real Madrid’s home turf, a stadium that holds nearly 85,500 spectators. The super-hightech interactive museum alone is amazing; walking through the tunnel – and having a nosey at the changing rooms – all add to the experience. €19. realmadrid.com


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Leading Style Hackett London is renowned as the tailor of choice for the world’s most stylish men. As Pierce Brosnan is announced as the face of the brand, take a moment to discover this iconic label. Elegant check and tartan suits. Super-soft knitwear. Immaculately tailored tweed blazers, and brightly coloured chinos and cords… Hackett London’s menswear collection for AW13 is the very epitome of urbane, modern style. Founded by chairman Jeremy Hackett, the brand provides expert tailoring to many of the world’s most discerning — and fashionable — gentlemen. And in keeping with its aim to dress the world’s most stylish men, the luxury brand has announced Pierce Brosnan as the new face of their ‘Leading Man’ campaign. Originating in

the world of film and theatre, and shot by the legendary photographer Terry O’Neill, ‘The Leading Man’, is a reflection of every man’s desire to be a leader, the best they can be in their chosen field and the star of the show. As well as iconic figures, sponsorship is a key part of the Hackett story, and Hackett’s portfolio of partnerships includes the Masters Tennis in Paris, The Boat Race, and Aston Martin Racing. Sitting amongst these sporting events is Hackett’s involvement with BAFTA as its official menswear stylist to its film awards.

Hackett’s Dublin store is set in suitably elegant surrounds on South Anne Street, and offers formal and casual collections alongside the brand’s famous tailoring service. Why not visit the store to discover all this and more, and create your own Leading Style.

Hackett London 21-26 SoutH anne Street, dubLin 2 , ireLand +353 (0)1 677 0429 Hackett.com


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AgAinst the tide

Derry-born actor Antonia Campbell Hughes is not afraid of taking on edgy roles. She likes a challenge and her latest movie is no exception. She talks to Tony Clayton-Lea about facing her fears. Photographs by Richard Gilligan. e’re guessing that you’re familiar with the face, but you just can’t place it in a movie or TV show. You think Antonia Campbell Hughes might have played an elf in one or all of the Lord of the Rings movies, but instinctively decide against it. No, you feel, she looks as if she’d be into something a bit less commercial or commodified. Something against the grain. Something with teeth. Not that you’d think it to look at her slight frame and her potently attractive features, but 31-yearold Campbell Hughes is quite the hard worker. She dispels the notion that small equals fragile, and if you glance over her nominal CV – especially from the mid-noughties onwards – you’ll discover a lengthy list of roles across film and television that are indicative not only of her work rate but also her levels of quality control. You receive the distinct impression that Campbell Hughes is fast approaching the end of her bit-part actor status. Yes, she implies, she will continue to do what she wants to do, but a stamped

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certificate that states she can play leading roles will most definitely replace the apprenticeship she went through in her 20s. As if to emphasise this, she is in virtually every frame of her latest film, Kelly+Victor. Set in contemporary Liverpool, the movie is a frank portrayal of a fractious love affair between the titular characters, each of whom struggles to live a life that is unmarked by dysfunction. It’s a strong film with often bracing adult themes, with Campbell Hughes delivering an utterly committed performance of a woman psychically scarred by tragedy yet optimistic enough to hope that love will heal all wounds. “I remember exactly when I got the script,” she says, as the makeup for this article’s accompanying photo shoot is being studiously applied. “It was at a time when I was being sent a lot of those gritty Northern English scripts, some of which are good and some of which aren’t. But I thought the script had tones of something which showed we’d be making a film that wasn’t grit for grit’s sake. I loved the book by Niall Griffiths, so I knew the

movie was coming from a place of quality, and that sparked my immediate interest.” The deal was sealed, so to speak, when she met the film’s director, Kieran Evans. “I instantly knew he wasn’t going to do the source material an injustice, that it wasn’t going to be voyeuristic and that he had real heart invested in it.” Between her starring role in Kelly+Victor and her lead role in the yet-to-be-released-in-Ireland film, 3096 (which, controversially, is about the abduction and slavery of Natascha Kampusch, for the portrayal of whom she underwent a medically supervised weight loss programme), Campbell Hughes seems to be on the cusp of something special. It certainly isn’t before time, as she has been on the so-called (and often overly hyped) “Rising Stars” lists for some time. Born in Derry, Northern Ireland, and raised between Switzerland, Germany and the US, she has said that her life can be likened to a puzzle of recreating herself and trying her hardest to fit in the pieces. Campbell Hughes’s mother is a native of Co Donegal. Her october/november 2013

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IntervIew

Liverpool-born father worked for American chemical company Du Pont, which had plants worldwide. Moving house and relocating was part and parcel of growing up, she says. “It was an interesting childhood where I learnt a lot. Something I really cherish now, and love, about Ireland is the somewhat tribal nation pride – a land connection. What is good about not having grown up with that, is that from day one I saw people as people, not where they came from. My first school – I was three – was an international one. Racially, the mix was as diverse as can be imagined across 23 children. So move and change was fairly normal for me. It’s quite hard to stop moving now.” Being an only child, the family unit was tight-knit. “We were a small family and moving a lot makes that even smaller. Being foreigners in non-English speaking countries intensifies that, too. Family life back then was quite formal and disciplined, but with warmth and friendship.” A precocious (if quite shy) teenager, she grew up loving arthouse cinema. Music and books also became crucial lifestyle and creative touchstones. “I was very much into music from the age of eleven – I was given a Cure album, and that set the tone forever! When I was 13, in Frankfurt, I saw the punk band, Die Toten Hosen, and then delved into a Euro-punk vortex for a long time. Aside from music, reading was all I did. Babysitting money was spent each week on a new book. I found a copy of JG Ballard’s Concrete Island when I was about eleven, and that also set the tone.” From being an art student, she initially made something of a one-to-watch name for herself by becoming a successful fashion designer (she once had her own clothing line at Topshop). Music played a part in her development (and still does, culturally at least) when she fronted a rock band that made the right noises but didn’t really go anywhere. Her true calling, she admits, was not as a 32 |

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fashion designer or a model (she has been photographed by the likes of Rankin, Perry Ogden and David Bailey) but as an actor. With sharply defined facial features that, outside a film set or studio, rarely experience the soft swish of a brush or fingertipped blusher, Campbell Hughes slowly began to stake her claim. “I started in comedy,” she relates, referring to the successful BBC Four comedy series, Lead Balloon (co-written by comedian Jack Dee), “and that wasn’t because I said to anyone that I’m a fan of British comedy – I just got a job. That got me more comedy roles, though, and so naturally enough I got offered more and more parts in that area.” She could see, however, that comedy wasn’t the area where she wanted to stay in all the time. Her love of independent cinema (and of “finding odd little Polish films made on a Handycam in the 1960s”) effectively stalled her career as an actor working predominantly in

“I’m motivated by a challenge in everything. I like to be frightened by things – face your fear, overcome it, and so on.”

comedic roles. “It came to a point where I knew I had to stop doing comedy and face the potential of not working for a long time, in order to try and pursue something that motivated me, moved me. My objective was to try and do things that were more challenging and moving. I’m motivated by a challenge in everything – if work becomes repetitive then why do it? I like to be frightened by things – face your fear, overcome it, and so on.” Did moving around as a child help her as an actor? “I guess having to redefine yourself and adapt ... meant that I could be a new person, in a way. That sounds like you’re faking it, doesn’t it, but it’s actually an opportunity for a person to rediscover themselves. It’s a wonderful thing to have people you grow up with alongside you to be a constant reminder of who you are, and to support you, but it can also be, perhaps, limiting.” The way Campbell Hughes tells it, there are two types of person, introverts and extroverts. While a peripatetic childhood is good for, as she says, redefining and adapting, it can also lead to a lack of true friendships and relationships. This can lead a person to become what can be described as a “loner”. True? She blinks, asks for a mirror, looks into it, and apologetically requests the make-up be removed and reapplied. “You know …” A long pause. “Hmmm ...” And then another one. “I think as a society we champion and reward the extrovert – the extrovert is the success, is what we’re told time and time again. But I’m of the opinion that the introvert is the more successful and powerful. I would definitely say I’m an introvert – is that being a loner? I suppose I’m more at ease in smaller social environments. As a kid I was pretty creative with my personality until about the age of five. Then I learnt from school and moving to America that it’s easier to just ‘fit in’. My first acting job? Ha! Then I became very reserved, enjoyed my own company. Watchful, perhaps.


INTERVIEw

Heart of darkness – Antonia Campbell Hughes and Julian Morris star in Kelly+Victor, a haunting portrayal of obsessive love.

“I’m a bit of a drifter, a bit of a nomad. There is, to a degree I think, a hint of empowerment in that. I’m very content with an audience of one. An audience of none? Not so good! That said, there have been times when I’ve chosen to keep things very isolated; I think that’s quite negative, but it’s an experiment that was good to toy with and I learned from it.” The learning of things is, of course, a continuous process, but why the flitting from one job to the next? Was she looking for something in one that she couldn’t find in the other?

“Yes, I have been asked why did I go from fashion to modelling to acting, and so on, and it is, really, that growing up I didn’t understand everything had a job title.” Fashion, she says, was viewed primarily by her as being about art and concept. Now, she is fully aware of how real character can inform clothes. Perhaps more intriguing is Campbell Hughes’s admission that fashion is a form of expression she now finds somewhat stressful. “At this point of my life, I know what makes me comfortable and what doesn’t, and I find it harder as an actor – as an actress, actually –

that there’s such an expectation to wear designer clothes. “Sometimes you’re just expected to be a hanger but, like I say, I know what suits me. I sometimes compromise; I’ve worn things on the red carpet, per se, that you’re meant to – long dresses at award shows, for example. That’s not correct for me but you do it because you’re meant to – you’re an actor, you read the script and you play the part. When I have compromised what I know is right for me, however, it has not worked out the way it should.” Singular, divisive, audacious, skilful, committed to and immersive in her work to the point of eyebrowraising scary. It’s like we said earlier: she goes against the grain. “I was never motivated to be just the one thing, or to chase just the one job,” she replies, giving an approving nod to the reapplied make-up. “I’m never lazy and I’m always very curious. What I do is nothing more than an evolution of constantly moving and doing things.” Kelly+Victor is now on general release.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY RICHARD GILLIGAN, ASSISTED BY AL HIGGINS

The Likes of Antonia Campbell Hughes ... MUSIC “I go through spells of loving different kinds of music, but I always go back to what I loved years ago. I like a lot of old rockabilly, and psychobilly bands like The Cramps. There are so many bands around now that aim to replicate that sound. I loved The Kills album Keep On Your Mean Side, and in terms of newish bands I love The Horrors. I like classic American punk rock such as Black Flag and Fugazi, as well as bands like Rancid and The Distillers. Now? In term of big rock stadium bands, I like Queens of the Stone Age, [middle right].” BOOKS “I really liked Niall Griffiths’s book, Kelly+Victor, and his debut novel, Grits. The director of Kelly+Victor, Kieran Evans, advised me to read a book called The Snow Child by Eowyn Ivey, so I got that recently. And Scottish writer, John Niven, is a favourite – his new book is Straight White Male, and it’s class, but

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his debut novel, Kill Your Friends, is just brilliant. I read a lot of biographies, the most recent being one about Annemarie Clarac Schwarzenbach, who I’m playing in Lonely Hunter, a movie about the American author, Carson McCullers.” MOVIES “I watch a lot of stuff on iTunes, you can find some brilliant foreign films there – they seem to have a great list of weird works that just don’t get shown anywhere at all these days, except maybe at film festivals ... One I remember is Keep the Lights On, by director/writer Ira Sachs. Another is by Lonely Hunter director Deborah Kampmeier – Hounddog, about a young girl finding solace in the music of Elvis Presley; it’s just spectacular. I love the work of Michael Winterbottom, who often uses locations as characters in his films – he’s also great at directing and writing women beautifully.

And I adore Lena Dunham’s Girls. Naturally.” RESTAURANTS “I was in New York during the summer, and an actor I worked with there advised me to check out The Lion (62 West Ninth Street; thelionnyc.com), below. He used to work there; it’s a really cool place, overseen by chef and owner John DeLucie. But, really, New York is littered with great bars and restaurants.” TRAVEL “I enjoy places that are true to where they are; if I’m in Germany, I like authentic bars. When I’m in Ireland, I quite like old hotels – when I’m driving up North and need a break, I always try to stop in one of those out-of-the-way towns that have B&Bs above the shop/ petrol station!”


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• Open for dinner Monday - Saturday from 5.30pm each night • Pre-Theatre menu available until 7pm 2 courses €20 - 3 courses €25 • Full À La Carte available • Open for lunch Tuesday to Saturday from 12.30pm with our famous late lunches Thurs, Fri and Sat. 12b Merrion coUrt, Merrion row, DUblin 2 w: UnicornreStaUrant.coM t: +353 (0)1 6762182 e: theUnicornreStaUrant@gMail.coM


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Derek Egan

Château Plaisance, Saint-Émilion “I bought this place eight years ago and I haven’t been away from it for a single day,” says Dubliner Derek Egan with a sigh. Gracious Château Plaisance with twelve hectares of vines in SaintÉmilion, and another eight classified as Bordeaux Supérieur, has soaked up every scrap of energy, time and money that its owner and his American partner, Kathleen Evans, have managed to summon. The adaptability born of Egan’s wide-ranging career has surely been an asset: he worked as an engraver and jewellery manufacturer in Ireland, launched an engineering business in the UK and became a real estate developer in the US before succumbing to château-owning ambitions nurtured during French holidays. “It was a Walter Mitty thing for a long time and then I decided I could do it.” Despite a careful assessment, the vineyards and buildings needed far more work than anticipated. “We had to reconstruct everything except the château’s four walls. Six months after we bought the place, the winery fell down in a storm.” Even so, helped by Jean-Philippe Fort, right-hand man of internationally acclaimed wine consultant Michel Rolland, Egan feels upbeat. “We have improved the wines dramatically and I genuinely believe they will soon be superb,” he says. Quite a statement for a low-key man. chateauplaisance.info


On the vine

Long, long ago, a flock of Irish emigrants set up their own wineries around the world. More recently, a new wave of Irish “wine geese” landed in southern France. Wine writer Mary Dowey visits them. Photographs by Trevor Hart. ne of these years climate change may turn Ireland into a wineproducing country worth noticing. In the meantime, the weather that delivers bright green grass and artistic skies of stacked-up clouds ripens grapes so unreliably that the basics of wine production are known only to a tiny handful of brave hobbyists. Yet in spite of what might be regarded as a serious home disadvantage, Irish people have profoundly influenced the world of wine for more than 300 years. Our first “wine geese” took their collective name from the Flight of the Wild Geese – the exodus of Irish Catholics to mainland Europe in the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries at critical points when Protestant power was gathering strength. Well-connected and enterprising, a surprising number of these fortune-seeking migrants ended up in the wine trade in Spain, Portugal and France – especially Bordeaux. Visiting Bordeaux in the 1770s, Thomas Jefferson, a keen young oenophile who would later become president of the United States, noticed how prominent the Irish were among the merchants on the busy Quai des Chartrons. Already in the 1740s, Thomas Barton ranked among the most important wine traders in the Médoc even though he had only left Fermanagh in 1725. Apart from the Bartons (who still run châteaux Léoville-Barton and Léoville Las-Cases), many Irish families were to stamp their names on Bordeaux wine labels: Clarke, Talbot, Phelan, Lynch, Dillon, MacCarthy and Kirwan among the best known. A fast-expanding region with a flourishing port, Bordeaux was a natural choice for Irish traders with a thirsty market back at home. Encouraged by excise duties that were lower than in England, the Irish gentry rapidly

O

developed an appetite for fine claret. Was it because of our culture, with its focus on conviviality, that wine carved out a significant place in the Irish psyche, alongside locally produced whiskey and beer? Perhaps. For whatever reason, Irish immigrants have become committed wine producers all over the globe, from California to Australia’s Clare Valley; from Slovenia to New Zealand’s Southern Alps. Their influence can be traced in the fascinating book, A Kingdom of Wine, by Ireland’s leading wine historian, Ted Murphy; in the International Museum of Wine in Kinsale, Co Cork, and in Susan Boyle’s entertaining one-woman show A Wine Goose Chase (awinegoosechase.com), on tour in Ireland this autumn. However scattered our wine diaspora may be, France remains its epicentre. No other country produces so many exceptional wines of strikingly different styles in so many regions: Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, Alsace, the Loire and the Rhône valley have all created benchmarks which the rest of the world follows. And of course France is only a hop away from Ireland – even if contemporary exiles sometimes arrive by a longer route, picking up hands-on vineyard and cellar experience along the way. The most crucial difference between present-day Irish wine geese and the pioneers of the past is probably this willingness to roll up their sleeves. Although there are exceptions, the Irish people producing wine in France today are not generally business magnates wealthy enough to delegate all the dirty work. They are driven, work maniacs and multi-taskers, as capable of mending a broken-down tractor as of wooing new customers at a wine fair in Beijing. And they love every demanding minute of it. october/november 2013

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PEOPLE

Neasa Corish Miquel Laurent Miquel, SaintChinian & Corbières, Languedoc

“I knew nothing about sales and marketing when I started,” says Neasa Corish Miquel. “Common sense is what I call it.” Whatever it is, it seems to work: she manages sales in 40 countries for an export-driven family company whose turnover has grown six-fold since she joined it twelve years ago. Although Ireland remains the number one market, its reach extends to China, Brazil and Peru. It was as a school leaver in the summer of 1995 that this Dubliner met young Laurent Miquel at a Languedoc féria. Although born into a SaintChinian wine estate, he was working in Newcastle as a Nissan engineer, “but already I had an inkling that he might eventually go home and become a winemaker”. Corish completed a physics degree at Trinity College Dublin and worked for Anderson Consulting before moving to the Languedoc in 2001. “It was a huge culture shock,” she admits, “mainly because so many family members lived on the estate and were involved in the business.” She and Laurent have since established a degree of independence by buying a wine property in Corbières where they live with two-year-old Seán. Unusually for this area, the vineyards are cool enough to suit white grapes. Stand by for the first vintage of an intriguing Albariño. laurent-miquel.com

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PEOPLE

Terry Cross

Château de la Ligne, Entre-Deux-Mers, Bordeaux It was during holidays with his children in south-west France that west Belfast businessman Terry Cross first began to visit wine estates. “I used to think: what a great lifestyle this would be if you could afford it,” he recalls. “Then, years later when I could almost afford it, I found Château de la Ligne.” On St Patrick’s Day 2000, the deal was sealed. The initial phase was unexpectedly complicated, involving grubbing up vines, transferring planting rights and flattening frostprone land. Cross also had to confront flawed economics. “I thought the income from the wine would pay for the château’s upkeep. In fact, whether wine makes money remains an open question – but it’s so interesting that it doesn’t greatly matter!” Determined to produce credible wines, he recruited well-known Bordeaux oenologist Gilles Pauquet. The next step was to develop new revenue streams – weddings in the château’s orangery and gîtes for holiday rentals. This side of the business has expanded so much that Cross relies on son-in-law, Barry Duffy, to manage events full-time. How does he get on with his wineproducing neighbours? “Bordeaux can be stiff and difficult to crack if you want to be part of the bourgeoisie – but I don’t. I’m far too busy.” chateaudelaligne.com

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PEOPLE

Paul and Isla Gordon Domaine La Sarabande, Faugères, Languedoc

When the boss of Isabel Estate in Marlborough, New Zealand, came knocking on the door of a nearby hostel looking for workers, backpacker Isla Couchman put up her hand. Childhood on a farm in Co Carlow and agricultural studies in Edinburgh had made her well able for tough vineyard work. At Isabel she met Australian winemaker Paul Gordon. You can pretty much guess what happened next. “We got married a few years later, in 2006.” By the time the couple left for Europe in 2008, Isla Gordon had worked for Kim Crawford Wines, studied viticulture and run exports at Astrolabe Wines. “I loved New Zealand but we wanted to have a family and it was too far from home.” Which pocket of Europe to choose? Priorat in north-east Spain seemed tempting; the south of France more tempting still. Within a few weeks of arriving in Faugères they managed to secure eight hectares of vines and a house, under which they could erect a winery. Already Domaine La Sarabande is building a reputation for finely tuned, pure-fruited wines. “The other producers in the village have been really helpful,” Gordon says. “We’re so small that we’re not a threat. I think they see that we know what we’re doing and we work fantastically hard.” sarabandewines.blogspot.ie

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PEOPLE

Charles and Ruth Simpson

Domaine de Sainte Rose, Languedoc The wine bug bites in unlikely places. In Azerbaijan, Charles Simpson was sales manager for a pharmaceuticals giant and his Scottish wife, Ruth, was a humanitarian aid worker, when the idea of owning a wine estate took root. Highly organised in their approach, the pair hammered out a 100-page business plan. “Passion and enthusiasm are important but you also need good financial planning and marketing,” warns Simpson, born of Northern Irish parents and educated mainly in the United States. Deciding on the Languedoc in 2002, the Simpsons viewed 30 properties in a month, fell in love with Domaine de Sainte Rose, near Béziers, and built a new winery in the nick of time for their first vintage. Early financial strains were eased through loans from twelve Irish businessmen with interest payable in wine. Working outside the appellation contrôlée system for freedom, the Simpsons have developed an impressive range based on six white and six red grape varieties. Interestingly the most unusual wines sell best, a rich Roussanne and luscious Petit VerdotMourvèdre blend turning out to be particular hits. Any more surprises in the pipeline? Yes, actually – a bombshell. “We’ve bought 30 hectares in Kent to produce sparkling wine and we’ll plant champagne grapes there next spring. Our friends think we’re nuts.” sainterose.com

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people

Caro and Seán Feely Feely Wines, Bergerac

Both born in South Africa with Irish roots, Caro and Seán Feely have travelled a long way to realise their wine dream, emotionally as well as geographically. They abandoned lucrative careers in Dublin to take over a dilapidated château near Saussignac in 2005. With two small daughters, no DIY skills, only a smattering of French and eveningclass wine knowledge, it was bound to be a difficult journey. Bitter cold, a plague of mice, constant financial anxieties and serious accidents with vineyard equipment made it nightmarish. Caro Feely distilled the challenges of the first three years into Grape Expectations, accurately described by American wine writer Alice Feiring as “a beautifully written tale of passion and guts”. “The book underlines what I would call the value of despair,” Feely reflects. “We were finding our feet. Things

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have definitely become easier.” The likelihood is that she has made them easier, because Caro Feely has iron determination. Besides acting as brand ambassador for nine wines, she offers wine courses, vineyard walks and accommodation in two eco-lodges, recently winning the Bordeaux gold medal for

sustainable tourism. Meanwhile Seán’s progression from organic to biodynamic viticulture is paying off. “You can really see the difference, not just in the wines but in the vineyard,” Caro reports. “Our vines look happy now.” feelywines.com

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culture | cork

Art of the city

Cork has become a buzzing arts hotspot and its cultural calendar is particularly crowded at this time of the year. Eithne Shortall looks at the wide range of artistic endeavours down by the Lee. Photographs by Sean Breithaupt and Yvette Monahan.

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Currachs on the River Lee – Naomhóga Chorchaí out for a stretch.

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photographs by seanandyvette.com

culture | cork

t’s amazing how much can change in 22 years. The cultural landscape of Cork was close to barren at the start of the 1990s and creative types were leaving for Dublin, London and the US. At the time, Pat Kiernan was having difficulty finding work as a theatre director so he decided to set up his own company, Corcadorca, in 1991. Nowadays, Cork, which was declared European Capital of Culture in 2005, is heaving with artists, theatre groups, galleries and successful annual arts events. And Corcadorca has become one

I

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of Ireland’s most prestigious drama producers, finding international success with Disco Pigs in 1996 and launching the careers of playwright Enda Walsh and local actor Cillian Murphy. “There was a sort of second city mentality of inferiority, but that’s gone,” says Kiernan. “I notice it in the new generation of artists coming in. That’s not even an issue. There is a greater sense of pride in being in the place, as opposed to before when it was a defensive decision and you had to qualify why you were staying in the city.” With more than 30 plays under its belt, Corcadorca is preparing to stage yet another highly

Cork landmark – the tower of St Anne's Church which houses the Shandon Bells.

anticipated production. The Big Yum Yum, a new play by Pat McCabe, the Man Booker Prize-nominated author of The Butcher Boy and Breakfast on Pluto, will run at the Half Moon Theatre from October 9 to 19 (previews October 7 and 8). It tells the story of five people who held positions of importance in Ireland 30 years ago but have since fallen from power. “It’s very funny,” says Kiernan. “The nature of Pat’s work is quite absurd and this play is fantastical.” The opening of The Big Yum Yum is just part of what has become one of the city’s busiest cultural periods. The Guinness Cork Jazz Festival


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culture | cork

Eat at … SPlurGe Greene’s restaurant requires diners to dig deeper but it does offer a competitive early-bird menu. (Mains cost around €25. 48 Mac Curtain Street, 021 455 2279; greenesrestaurant. com). Vegetarians haven’t always been taken seriously in the Irish culinary business, but café Paradiso is one of several restaurants working to change that. (A three-course set menu costs €40. 16 Lancaster Quay, 021 427 7939; cafeparadiso.ie) MID-PrIce With a lively bar downstairs and a trendy restaurant on the first floor, electric, above, is one of Cork's most popular venues. It also boasts a fish bar and arguably the best place in the city for al fresco drinking. (Mains cost around €20. 41 South Mall, 021 422 2990; electriccork.com). liberty Grill also offers a wide selection of dinner options at a reasonable price. This eatery is fast becoming the place to be seen, so booking is advised. (Mains cost around €15.32 Washington Street, 021 427 1049; libertygrill.ie) BuDGet For a lighter meal, or even just some cake and a coffee, try Farmgate restaurant on the first floor of the English Market. Perch yourself on a high stool and you can watch locals buying fish and vegetables below. (Princes Street, 021 427 8134; farmgate.ie)

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Left, the calm modernist space of the Lewis Glucksman Gallery. Right, Helena Rosebery and her labradoodle.

gets underway in late October, while the Cork Film Festival runs for nine days in November. The Cork City Ballet is celebrating its 21st birthday with an ambitious production of some of the most famous dance sequences of all time. The Ballet Spectacular Gala, running at Cork Opera House from November 21 to 23, will star Lucia Lacarra, a Spanish dancer and one of the world’s top ballerinas. “When God was giving out ballet bodies, this lady was at the front of the queue,” says Alan Foley, artistic director of Cork City Ballet. “She is perfection personified. We’ve had an awful lot of huge names from the ballet world over the years, but for the last number of years I’ve thought ‘wouldn’t it be wonderful to get her?’ Lucia is making a special effort for our anniversary.” Ballet in Cork isn’t just for November. There have been strong links between the city and this particular dance form for more than 60 years and Foley intends to incorporate this into their

Stay at …

SPLURGE Centrally located, the four-star Imperial Hotel, above, is an unashamed throwback to a bygone era of glamour and sophistication. It is a great place to stop for a beverage – even if you can’t afford the whole night’s stay. (A high-end double room from

anniversary show. Joan Denise Moriarty is credited as bringing professional ballet to Ireland. She based her company in Cork in the mid-1950s. “She was a Cork woman who believed in decentralisation,” explains Foley. “When the

€180 B&B. South Mall, 021 427 4040; flynnhotels. com/Imperial_Hotel_Cork) MID-PRICE If you’re looking for a big-budget experience at a slightly more modest price, then there’s no better place than the four-star Clarion Hotel. For a view worth packing a camera for, ask for a riverside room. (From €140 pps for B&B. Lapps Quay, Cork, 021 422 4900; clarionhotelcorkcity.com) The four-star River Lee Hotel is the perfect location for exploring the city's great restaurants. Family friendly without losing the hint of luxury, its generous breakfast in the Weir Bistro will set you up to tour the sights. Round off your day with a pint in the friendly bar and watch the swans sail by. (Rooms from €110. Western Road,

021 425 2700; doylecollection. com) BUDGET To soak up some village-like atmosphere without leaving Cork city, head for Shandon on the northside of the River Lee. Kinlay House is centrally located in this student-friendly area. (Dorm room beds start at €14. Bob and Joan’s Walk, Shandon, 021 450 8966; kinlayhousecork.ie) And for good value and an interesting experience, check out chocolatier David Shorten and artist Angie Shanahan's airbnb offering. An art-filled Victorian house 20 minutes' walk from the city centre, it has a charming walled garden. Expect hearty breakfasts and chocolate-making tips. (Rooms from €95; Boreenmanna Road, Cork; airbnb.ie/rooms/604441).

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CULTURE | CoRk

government officials were saying ‘move to Dublin’, she kept saying, ‘no, I will stay in Cork’. And she did. The company ran down there for many years.” The southern county has a strong sense of history. Cork was the final landing point for the doomed Titanic in 1912, while the city and surrounding areas were at the centre of the Irish Civil War. Its cultural heritage is rich too. Musicians such as John Spillane, The Frank and Walters and Rory Gallagher lived in the city. Acclaimed short story writer Frank O’Connor was from Cork, while authors such as Paul Durcan, John Montague and Theo Dorgan have links to the city’s university. Indeed, University College Cork has just introduced a new Masters programme for creative writing,

and the college campus is home to arguably the finest example of stained-glass art in Ireland. The 19 exquisite windows in the Honan Chapel were created by Sarah Purser, head of the esteemed An Túr Gloine collective, and Harry Clarke, a young Dubliner who went on to become Ireland’s finest stain-glass artist. The chapel sits opposite the Lewis Glucksman Gallery, which features an impressive and ever-changing programme of modern art. Meanwhile, the Crawford Art Gallery in the city centre hosts more

Left, St Munchin, by Catherine O'Brien, one of Honan Chapel's 19 beautiful stained glass windows, and below, the Lewis Gluckman Gallery, home to many an impressive modern art exhibition.

Insider’s Guide

Cork fashion journalist Jo Linehan, below, on her city faves … My ideal day in Cork begins at The Farm Gate (English Market, 021 427 8134; farmgate.ie), enjoying a freshly baked fruit scone with homemade raspberry jam and a hot coffee below the elevated sculpture of Michael Quane. Then, it’s downstairs to wander the stalls, making sure to stop at on The Pig’s Back (onthepigsback. ie)) for boulangerie-worthy bread and cheese. Cork’s vintage community is its bestkept secret; I love Miss Daisy Blue (Market Parade, 51-53 Patrick Street, 021 427 9428), Mercury Goes Retrograde (19c Drawbridge Street) and Turquoise Flamingo (turquoiseflamingo. turquoiseflamingo. com com) for clothing and accessories and Fellini Tearoom (3 Carey’s Lane) for vintage teacups, wares and jewellery. A few hours spent in the newly refurbished Triskel Arts Centre (021 427 2022; triskelartscentre.ie), on Tobin Street, is a great way to spend an afternoon.

It homes a cool café, Gulp’d (with a brilliant menu of vegan-friendly cakes and sandwiches as well as many a Corkonian’s favourite shop, Plug’d Records, where the boys, see Jim Morgan, left, pride themselves on diagnosing the perfect LP to suit your mood. The Lewis Glucksman Art Gallery (021 490 1844; glucksman.org) and UCC campus are the most sacred spaces in the city to wander and work up the thirst for a well-earned pint in one of Cork’s large supply of cosy and off-beat pubs. I love the Mutton Lane Inn (3 Mutton Lane; corkheritagepubs. com) for eavesdropping and The Bodega (St Peter’s Market; bodega. ie) for excellent wine and the most beautiful setting. Evening meal time has to be Market Lane (5/6 Oliver Plunkett Street, 021 427 4710; marketlane.ie), where hearty, local produce and the best desserts in the city are served, before heading to the Pavilion (pavilioncork.com) on Carey’s Lane where their Motown, soul, funk DJs draw an all-dancing cool crowd ‘til the wee hours.


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culture | cork

populist shows and welcomes in excess of 200,000 visitors annually. Seven, an exhibition of work by Irish pop artist Robert Ballagh, runs at the Crawford until October 26. Theatre spaces include the Everyman Palace and Cork Opera House, while the Triskel Arts Centre offers everything from exhibition spaces to an independent record shop. The Firkin Crane is a great place for contemporary dance, and there is no shortage of music venues. “Cork is absolutely brimming with culture,” agrees Foley. “You’ve got the Cork Symphony Orchestra and we’ve had some wonderful opera companies over the years. The legacy of ballet speaks for itself and there are fabulous theatre companies, wonderful poets and musicians all based in Cork.” While funding is as much a problem in Cork as it is for arts groups all around Ireland, the Capital of Culture status has had positive, lasting effects. The designation was particularly important for smaller art groups,

who got first-time funding or were given council buildings free of charge. The Guesthouse is a venue set up in the Shandon area of Cork in 2004 by a local artist collective. The city council gave them the four-storey house free of charge as part of preparations for its tenure as European Capital of Culture. Nine years on, it is still used regularly to screen art films, host talks and exhibit works by emerging artists. Its primary function, however, is to offer residencies to international artists wishing to work in Cork. David Upton, a member of The Guesthouse’s management committee, says the city benefits from these international connections. “This is the only [international] residency in the city of Cork,” he says. “It provides opportunities for the community to keep in touch

If culture vulturing is starting to take its toll, you’ll find all the sea air you need for a breather . amongst the awe-inspiring scenery of West Cork You can reach Baltimore by car in just over an hour. Stop off at Bushes Bar (bushesbar.com) for a pint and watch the fishing boats come in.

This page, clockwise from left, Corkonian street art; Darren Connolly, head chef at Arthur Mayne's Pharmacy, a city wine bar; Grease at Cork Opera House. Opposite page, clockwise from top left, David Upton of artist's collective The Guesthouse; Linnea Lagerquist of The Buttercup Café in Shandon; the Crawford Art Gallery's director Peter Murray; bellringers at St Anne's Church.

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Don't miss ...

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Established in 1956 and growing in popularity and scale ever since, the cork Film Festival is always particularly strong on short movies. This year’s event focuses on that medium and runs from November 9 to 17. corkfilmfest.org The Guinness cork Jazz Festival is known for the crowds it draws to the city every year and the 2013 event will be no different. Between October 25 and 28, Billy Cobham, the Mingus Big Band and Nile Rodgers perform at venues such as the Triskel Christchurch and the Everyman Palace Theatre. guinnessjazzfestival.com The Dragon of Shandon is an annual parade organised to coincide with Halloween. Thousands of Corkonians descend on the

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Shandon area of the city to take part in this street spectacle. Join the masses from 7pm on October 31. dragonofshandon.com Modern Families is an exhibition about relatives and relationships in art. The show features works from Irish artists Isabel Nolan and Gerard Byrne, alongside international names such as Lasse Schmidt Hansen and Eulalia Valldosera. It runs at the lewis Glucksman Gallery until November 3. glucksman.org The Triskel Christchurch plays host to Irish singer-songwriter Adrian crowley for one night only on Friday, November 22. Tickets are just €14. Nominated for this year’s Choice Music Award, his music displays great intelligence and a haunting technique. triskelartscentre.ie

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culture | cork

illustration by Fuchsia mcaree

Camden Palace Hotel opened as an artist-focused venue in 2009. The building, on the quays of the River Lee, had previously served as a garden centre and temporary court house. However, the recession was making it difficult for the owner to find a tenant willing to pay full rent. Bertrand Perennes, the venue’s artistic director, talked the owner into giving it over for artistic purposes at a nominal fee. “It was better to have us inside the building, caring for it, than nothing. The building was going derelict. There were holes in the wall,” explains Perennes. “It’s a space that we can offer artists who have been overlooked for funding. It gives them the possibility to exist.” Camden Palace provides studios and workshops for artists. It is an expansive space that includes a theatre, exhibition space and practice room for musicians. Perennes and a number of volunteers organise DoN't weekly swing classes and choir rock tHe performances that are open BoAt with what’s happening to the public. It is also currachs – traditional tarredinternationally and to holding a jazz film festival canvas boats – are having a make those connections.” to coincide with the moment. Watch the lads (and This year alone, the mainstream jazz festival lassies) rowing on saturday mornings venue has hosted artists in late October. It is or have a go yourself. 10.30am, from America, Japan, just one example of how next to shandon rowing club, France and Norway. the city’s established and €10 day membership; Cork’s fringe culture emerging art scenes have naomhogachorcai. is as strong, if not stronger, achieved a complementary com. than what’s happening in the existence. mainstream. The Kino, Cork’s From alternative film festivals only art house cinema, closed Repurposed to blockbuster ballet performances, several years ago but the gap has spaces – top left, Cork has come a long way in the Camden Palace past couple of decades. Where mass been partly filled by the Triskel, Hotel's artistic exodus used to be the norm for the which offers a superb director Bertrand range of alternative Perennes, and city’s artists, now cultural emigration film screenings. bottom left, music is happening in reverse. Perennes promoters Jamie came to Cork from his hometown The Kino building, Sugrue, Joe Fahy of Paris in the late 1990s and never meanwhile, has been and Carol-Ann taken over got around to leaving. “I planned Goold of No Time by a group of teenagers Records, who run to stay for two weeks; then it was who operate it as a events at The Kino. two months and two years. Now concert venue. Popit is 14 years. There’s an extremely up galleries and gig good scene of artists in Cork,” spaces have become says the Frenchman. “Culture is commonplace, while important for a city. It gives it a sense several innovative groups of direction.” So go on, enjoy all the have found ways to make cultural delights that Cork has to offer. You can always reconsider that the recent economic crisis return ticket. work for them. 58 |

october/november 2013


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CITY BREAK | CHICAGO

SCENE

SETTER

Thanks to the movies, Chicago's cityscape looks strangely familiar, even to the first-time visitor. Film buff Philip Nolan relives his favourite scenes on location. Photographs by Matthew Gilson. 60 |

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city break | chicago

he point of cupcakes has been wasted on me – too much icing, too little cake – but that hasn’t stopped me calling to the Magnolia Bakery (magnoliabakery.com) on North State Street in Chicago. I’m in the city to tour movie locations, and the Manhattan original featured in Sex and the City. There’s enough sugar in the mostly pastel selection to induce a diabetic coma, so I choose a proper mancake instead – dark and filled with fruit – and sit with my new friend, Sue Murphy, for a breather from our walking tour. Sue is a volunteer with the Chicago Greeter service (chicagogreeter.com), a simple but very clever idea. Run by the city’s tourism authority, Choose Chicago (choosechicago.com), it pairs tourists with knowledgeable locals who love nothing more than to show off their city to visitors. It is completely free: all you have to do is register ten days in advance of your trip and choose a geographical

T

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area, or a theme, you would like to explore. These include 25 diverse neighbourhoods, and cover interests such as art and architecture, fun for foodies, fun for families, gay Chicago, ethnic Chicago (including the fourth largest Chinatown in the US) and, in what was a predominantly Irish city, areas associated with immigrants and their descendants. For a lifelong movie buff who spent most of his teens and 20s sitting in the dark, the draw was the tour of movie locations. Call Northside 777, the story of a dogged news reporter (James Stewart, exuding Midwestern integrity) trying to prove the innocence of a man convicted of murder, was the first Hollywood movie to be shot on location in Chicago, back in 1947, bringing a sense of noir realism to the screen that studio sets could not match. Since then, Chicago has played a

Top, Anish Kapoor's iconic sculpture, “Cloud Gate”, on Millennium Park. Above, film buff Philip Nolan, wetting his whistle ahead of his Chicago film tour. Right, cupcake heaven at Magnolia Bakery.


CITY BREAK | CHICAGO

starring role in countless movies, more perhaps than anywhere outside Los Angeles and New York. Of all the cities you never have visited, it surely is the most familiar. You’ve seen it in Prohibition-era dramas such as The Road To Perdition and Public Enemies; in Sixteen Candles, The Breakfast Club and many more coming-of-age teenage comedies directed by the late John Hughes; romantic comedies When Harry Met Sally, My Best Friend’s Wedding and While You Were Sleeping; big-budget blockbusters Backdraft and The Fugitive; and, of course, Home Alone, set almost entirely in a house at 671 Lincoln Avenue in the northern suburb of Winnetka. It played Gotham in The Dark Knight and took a hammering in Transformers: Dark Of The Moon. The murder of the city’s archbishop was the crime at the heart of Primal Fear. John Cusack daydreamed in the Championship Vinyl record store in High Fidelity, and some of the best car chases in movie history were staged there for The Blues Brothers (though the Dixie Square Mall in the southside suburb of Harvey, trashed in the course of one epic pursuit, was largely vacant at the time of filming in 1979 and was finally demolished last year). I met Sue, who has spare time now that her daughters are away at college, at the Chicago Cultural Center (chicagoculturalcenter.com) on Washington Street, where the Greeter service is based. Sue and her family lived in Co Cork for three years when her husband’s job took him there, so my accent wasn’t a problem for her. We had been in contact by email before I arrived to establish exactly what it was I wanted to see, and I told Sue I really wanted to concentrate on three movies that stand out, not just for me but for many of a certain age. 64 |

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Eat at …

Top, the 251-kilometre-long Chicago River, that's famously dyed green on St Patrick's Day. Above, Chicago Greeter, Sue Murphy – who has a good ear for the Cork accent.

FANCY The vast Benny’s Chop House is one of the city’s fifinest nest dining spaces, serving upmarket Midwestern fare and more than 1,000 different wines, along with signature cocktails. The grilled romaine salad is a standout starter, but the showstoppers are the steaks. It’s pricey – steaks range from skirt at $21.99 to a 32-ounce Porterhouse at $109.99 – but well worth it for a blowout night. (444 North Wabash Avenue, +1 312 626 2444; bennyschophouse.com) BEST VALUE Chef John Coletta’s philosophy at the Quartino Ristorante and Wine Bar, right, is a simple one – send lots of tapasstyle dishes out to the tables for everyone to share. The result is a joyously lively restaurant that rocks to the sound of chat and laughter. Be warned, though, it’s incredibly popular and you may have to wait a while for a table; fortunately, there’s also a very lively bar area. The three-course lunch special

menu, at $25 for two people, is probably the best value in the city. (626 North State Street, +1 312 698 5000; quartinochicago.com) PIZZA No visit to Chicago is complete without a proper deep dish pizza and Lou Malnati’s operates 36 outlets citywide. We ate in the Gold Coast branch at State and Rush, and recommend the spicy chicken wings appetiser and the “Lou” pizza, named after the founder and heaving with spinach, mushrooms, tomatoes and three cheeses. (loumalnatis.com)


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city break | chicago

The Chicago Cultural Center's magnificent interiors in which Robert de Niro iconically played Al Capone in The Untouchables, below.

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Two were released in 1986 and the third a year later, and this dazzling trio of an adult morality tale (Edward Zwick’s About Last Night, with Rob Lowe and Demi Moore), a teenage odyssey (Ferris Bueller’s Day Off, starring Matthew Broderick and directed by John Hughes), and a dark crime drama (Brian de Palma’s The Untouchables) gave us many of the iconic images forever associated with the city. As it happens, my tour started

immediately, because the staircase in the Cultural Center is the very one on which Robert de Niro, playing Al Capone in The Untouchables, gave a press conference denying involvement in crime. The building began its life as the city’s central library, planned after the Great Fire of 1871 destroyed almost the entire downtown district. Constructed for what at the time was a massive $2 million, it is an architectural masterpiece. The staircase is white Carrara marble, inlaid with green Connemara marble, perhaps in tribute to the main ethnic groups in the city when the library opened in 1897. On the third floor, the Preston Bradley Hall is capped by a 12-metre Tiffany glass dome, the world’s largest, and also featured in The Untouchables when Capone toasts Pagliacci after the execution of Irish cop Jim Malone, famously played with a Scottish accent by Sean Connery. Another part of the building doubled as the courtroom where Kevin Costner’s Eliot Ness discovered the notebook implicating Frank Nitti in Malone’s murder, prompting the chase that ends with Nitti being thrown from the roof. Just across Michigan Avenue, we walked through Millennium Park (millenniumpark.org) to see Anish Kapoor’s famous “Cloud Gate” sculpture, a magnificent, kidneyshaped, sinuous piece of metal, known to all as “The Bean”. It reflects the city skyline and featured at the end of the Jake Gyllenhaal movie Source Code. Just south of Millennium Park is Grant Park, where Demi Moore and Elizabeth Perkins watched Rob Lowe and Jim Belushi play baseball in About Last Night. Between the


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5 things to do ...

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THE WHEEL Chicago’s most famous theatre company, Steppenwolf, presents the US premiere of The Wheel by Zinnie Harris, set in 19th-century Spain. It runs until November 10 and stars three-time Oscar nominee Joan Allen (The Crucible, Nixon, The Contender). (1650 North Halstead Avenue, +1 312 335 1650; steppenwolf.org) CHICAGO INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL Now in its 49th year, the festival runs from October 10-24 and features new movies, retrospectives, the best of world cinema and public interviews with actors and directors, including Oscar-winner Helen Hunt, Robert Zemeckis, Bille August, David O. Russell, Charles Sturridge and Ireland’s Ciarán Foy, who will attend screenings of his acclaimed psychological horror movie Citadel on October 12, 13 and 15. The separate, but complementary, Chicago International Children’s Film Festival runs from October 25 to November 3 and will screen more than 250 films from 40 countries, with a brief to showcase the best in culturally diverse, non-violent, life-affirming new cinema. (Various venues; chicagofilmfestival.com, cicff.org) FRANK LLOYD WRIGHT AT OAK PARK No visit to Chicago is complete without a trip to Oak Park, where architect Frank Lloyd Wright’s Prairie style effectively laid the blueprint for the American

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two is the Art Institute (artic.edu), one of the world’s finest galleries, where Ferris Bueller’s pal Cameron was hypnotised by Seurat’s Pointillist masterpiece, “A Sunday On La Grande Jatte”. The Institute is worth a day all to itself, especially since the opening of architect Renzo Piano’s Modern Wing in 2009, now home to works by Picasso, Matisse, Magritte and many others. A brilliant smartphone app can be downloaded for free and it will guide you through all the galleries, offering biographies of the artists and the background to individual works, including “American Gothic” by Grant Wood, perhaps the finest American painting of the last century and certainly the most parodied. From there, Sue took me to the James R Thompson Center, formerly known as the State of Illinois Center, a flying saucer with

Opposite, Buckingham Fountain. Top, the Art Institute, which houses the Masters of Impressionism, above – and the place where Ferris Bueller discovered Pointillism, below.

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suburban home as we know it. Thanks to the work of the Frank Lloyd Wright Preservation Trust, you can tour Wright’s own home and studio, and also take a walking tour with portable audio guide to view the exteriors of the largest collection of his work in one location – 25 structures built between 1889 and 1913. (gowright.org) HOUSE OF BLUES GOSPEL BRUNCH Now running for an incredible 20 years, the Brunch is an unmissable Sunday staple, with two shows, at 10am and 12.30pm. Enjoy the best music in town, accompanied by scrambled egg with buttermilk biscuits and country gravy, or creole chicken jambalaya (among lots of other options) – and don’t forget to wave your napkin in the air to “When the Saints Go Marching In”. Great fun for adults ($40) and kids ($25) alike. (329 North Dearborn, +1 312 923 2000; houseofblues.com) MODEL RAILROAD GARDEN Chicago has long been one of the most important rail hubs in the United States and the Botanic Garden’s annual model railroad tribute features 18 model G-scale trains, 1/29th of life size, running on 17 tracks, along with almost 50 models of American landmarks, including the Lincoln Memorial and the White House. Runs daily from 10am-5pm until October 27; adults $6, Children $4, parking $20. (1000 Lake Cook Road, Glencoe, +1 847 835 5440;

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chicagobotanic.org/railroad) an hour.

a huge atrium that featured in the gripping climax of Running Scared, the 1986 cop movie that starred Billy Crystal and Gregory Hines. After our stopover at Magnolia, we continued to The Rookery (therookerybuilding.com). Opened in 1888, the interior was redesigned in 1905 by Frank Lloyd Wright and featured gilded white marble and bronze chandeliers. In turn, this was remodelled in 1931 but later restored OctOber/NOvember 2013

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CITY BREAK | CHICAGO

to Lloyd Wright’s plan to regain its position as one of the city’s most treasured landmarks. It was home to Eliot Ness’s office, and also to Mel Gibson’s advertising agency in What Women Want. But of all the locations we visited, the most beautiful and mostly unchanged, is the canyon of buildings on South LaSalle Street, bounded by the Chicago Board of Trade, Continental Illinois and Federal Reserve Bank of Illinois buildings, and immediately familiar from the poster for The Untouchables and as the scene of a confrontation between Batman and The Joker in The Dark Knight. You could walk the city forever

and see something familiar – the Chicago Theatre (thechicagotheatre. com) on State Street that was featured in the blockbuster musical, Chicago; countless locations for this year’s Superman reboot, Man of Steel; even the Billy Goat Tavern (billygoattavern.com), located under Michigan Avenue, and made famous on Saturday Night Live by John Belushi as the Olympia Tavern. Nor can you miss a visit to the Great Hall at Chicago Union Station. Its staircase was the location for De Palma’s homage to Eisenstein’s Battleship Potemkin in The Untouchables, the memorable sequence with a baby in a pram trundling down the stone staircase

Top, Sam Sianis, owner of the Billy Goat Tavern, and classic signage at Chicago Theatre. Below, déjàvu on South LaSalle Street, where Heath Ledger's Joker memorably confronts Batman, right.

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in the middle of an epic gunfight. And as for Ferris Bueller, well, Ferris ruined my early adulthood. I was 22 when the movie was released and (though still a year younger than Matthew Broderick pretending to be a teenager) it made me almost ridiculously jealous that I hadn’t been more adventurous and less timid when I was a schoolboy myself. Who wouldn’t want to have skipped classes and taken to a float in the annual Steuben Parade, filmed in Dearborn Street, to get an entire city singing along to Twist and Shout by The Beatles? These are the cinema memories that last a lifetime – and Chicago has supplied hundreds of them. There was, however, one I had no wish to experience. In the movie,


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CITY BREAK | CHICAGO

ILLUSTRATION BY ANNA SIMMONS

Stay at ...

The city tourism website choosechicago.com is a mine of information and includes a directory of hotels, where you can choose from the highly regarded 19th century guesthouse Villa D'Citta (from $129 per night), to the impossibly elegant five-star Waldorf Astoria (from $345 per night).

Ferris, his girlfriend Sloane and the fearful Cameron (the one I most identified with) enjoy the view from the top of Sears Tower, now known as Willis Tower (willistower.com). They had to lean forward into the windows, pressing their foreheads against the glass, to see straight down to street level from the building’s top floor, the Skydeck. So inspired, the owners built a new attraction called The Ledge – a retractable, fully glass box that extends out of the building on the 103rd floor, more than 400 metres above the ground. There is no obstruction to your view from either side, from above – or, terrifyingly, below. 72 |

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I couldn’t bring myself to visit; the vertigo I might have been able to combat in my youth has got worse over the years and I had no wish to be rescued, whimpering, from high above the city. And so my dream of being Ferris, as always, lay in ruins – but Chicago nonetheless remains one of the greatest cities in the world to find yourself in when you have a day off. For more information on the Greeter programme, see choosechicago.com and chicagogreeter.com. Full details of The Ledge are available on theskydeck.com

Chicago’s grand dame of hotels, The Drake, is a bit of a diva herself and a definite candidate for best performance in a supporting role. Tom Cruise lived it up with call girl Rebecca de Mornay in the hotel’s Palm Court in Risky Business; Julia Roberts plotted the collapse of My Best Friend’s Wedding while staying there; and Mel Gibson dropped his daughter to her high school prom under the hotel marquee in What Women Want. You may also remember it from Continental Divide, starring the late Chicago native John Belushi, and from Clint Eastwood’s Flags of Our Fathers. Perhaps the best reason to stay, though, is the Coq d’Or bar at street level. One of the first to reopen after the repeal of Prohibition, it is without question one of the most evocative and welcoming hotel bars in the world. And take a tip – the lakeview rooms are the best. Rooms from $199 a night. (140 East Walton Place, +1 312 787 2200; thedrakehotel.com thedrakehotel.com)

Above, Willis Tower’s Ledge is only for the brave. Right, a splash of colour on Dearborn Street.

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culture break | Stockholm

Under the volcanoes Looking for a family holiday with something extra this winter? Pól Ó Conghaile searches out kid-friendly coves, activities and attractions in Lanzarote. Photographs by Anthony Woods.

The Catlanza leaves Puerto Calero for the golden beaches of Papagayo.


FAMILY HOLIDAY | LANZAROTE

o I’m walking through Puerto del Carmen at siesta time. It’s hot; razorsharp sunlight is ricocheting off white buildings and I’m looking for a very particular tonic – the cool, blue waters of the Old Town’s swimming spots. Everybody knows the big, sweeping

S

beaches of Playa Grande and Los Pocillos, but these peachy little coves are a whole other story. They’re the stuff of which postcards are made. Turning a corner, descending the cactus-crammed path beneath the seafood restaurants of Avenida El Varadero, I stumble upon an eternal scene: a family grilling sardines in the old fishing harbour. The The kids’ beach shoes are lined up on black stones. Nearby, an old man is splayed out on a rock. As the smell from the barbecue wafts towards him, he stretches like a cat, slips into the water and unfurls a crisp front-crawl. The The scene is about as far removed from Irish pubs and roast beef dinners as it gets. Around the corner lies another gem. Playa Chica must be one of the smallest beaches on the Canary

Above, the arid landscape of Lanzarote is indented with peachy little coves. Right, sunseeker Pól Ó Conghaile, and below left, kids diving off the pier at Playa Chica.

Islands, but it’s also one of the most perfectly formed. Kids can swim and snorkel in the clear waters, nosing in and out of jagged volcanic rocks. In the sands, you might spot garden eels, spider fish, crabs and flounder. Local boys take turns jumping off the pier, while divers walk straight in off the sand. In just a few minutes, they’ll descend into a landscape of black coral forests, hidden caves and shipwrecks

ries, beginning life with a HIGH POINT Lanzarote is the oldest of the Cana El Hierro is the youngest. series of volcanic eruptions 15 million years ago.

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16/09/2013 11:30


Family Holiday | lanzarote

patrolled by dusky groupers (one of them, Felix, even has his own Facebook page). Playa Chica has something for everyone, right down to the ice-cream fridge. It’s exactly what I’m after. With almost 200,000 Irish visitors a year, Lanzarote is comfortably our favourite Canary Island, and a super all-rounder for families. It’s got several decent sandy beaches (never a given on these volcanic islands) and a strong selection of villas, apartments and resort-style hotels, particularly in resort towns of Playa Blanca to the south, and Puerto del Carmen on the east coast. Puerto is the oldest, biggest and liveliest resort on the island, with a long line of hotels, arcades, shops, pubs and restaurants fronting onto its sandy coastline. Flying and flopping into a resort here, alternating between pool and

Three familyfriendly stays ...

Kids' stuff at Rancho Texas, below left and top right, with bird trainer Fortunato Torres and Gutierrez, and right, sandy Playa Blanca .

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los Jameos Playa (Playa de los Pocillos, +34 928 511 717; los-jameos-playa.co.uk) is a family-friendly four-star, above, on the outskirts of Puerto del Carmen. A Balinese-style lobby leads to several pools under the shade of a palm grove, and though the rooms are a little florid, there are kids’ clubs, children’s pools, a mini-disco, playground and free use of a washer and dryer. A big buffet is Grand Central Station for refuelling guests. (Rooms from €180 for two adults half board.) The five-star Princesa yaiza (Playa Blanca, +34 928 519 300; princesayaiza. com) is perhaps Lanzarote’s most popular luxury resort, and not just with adults. Kikoland is its on-site children’s park, featuring 10,000 square metres of pools, mini-clubs, playhouses, sports courts, an amphitheatre for shows, musicals and parties, and its very own soccer school. (Rooms from €188). costa sal (Puerto del Carmen, +34 928 514 242; costasal.com) is like a Little Ireland in Lanzarote. Its apartments and bungalows are hugely popular with Irish visitors – RTÉ is available on the tellies, and the more upmarket rooms have hot tubs. The accommodation circles around a single, curvy pool, while restaurant Zest does an affordable mix of pizzas, pastas, steaks and roasts. Overall, excellent quality for a three-star. (Rooms from €53-€145 per villa per night.)

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sea, you should be happy as Larry for a fortnight. But families will find a lot more on the island, too. Take Rancho Texas (ranchotexaslanzarote.com; €19/€14). It sounds like a steakhouse, but this is one of the best family parks on the island. Located near Puerto del Carmen, it twins a zoo whose animals include cougars, bison and white tiger, with a pool and splash zone featuring a pair of slides up to 100 metres long. Though not on the same scale as Tenerife’s Loro Parque, visitors can pan for gold, paddle a canoe, swim and attend a show in which eagles and vultures swipe prey from mid-air over their heads. Pay an extra €58/€53, and you can even sign up for a “sea lion interaction” that involves swimming with the animals. This “Texas” thing isn’t entirely random, either. Like the Lone Star State, Lanzarote can be astonishingly arid in places – there isn’t a river or spring in sight. The island measures just 800 square kilometres, yet it is dotted with some 140 volcanoes and a continuous web of black, liquoricelike landscapes crafted by eruptions stretching back millions of years.


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FAMILY HOLIDAY | LANZAROTE

Three unique eats ...

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Fancy having your dinner grilled by a volcano? That’s the offer at El Diablo (+34 928 840 056; lunch only), the only restaurant inside Timanfaya National Park. It’s a touristy spot and the grub isn’t exactly gourmet, but where else would you find fish, chicken, pork chops and other dishes barbecued over a six-metre pit wafting with the immense heat of an ancient eruption? They even do a volcano cake. Eating out in Puerto del Carmen can be a lottery, but Bodega (5 Roque Noblo Street, +34 928 512 953; restaurante-lacascada.com) is a safe bet. The farmhouse setting feels surreal at first, but there’s a wide selection on the menu, including good grilled fish, and the sight of choice Iberian hams hanging over the bar is always comforting. Wherever you eat, don’t miss the Canarian potatoes and their green and red “mojo” sauces … Lanzarote looks barren but it’s surprisingly fecund when it comes to wine. Bodegas Stratvs (La Geria, +34 928 809 977; stratvs.com) is a good place to wet your lips, and its cool, upmarket cellar restaurant opens for dinner Thursday to Saturday. Local growers bring their grapes here and you can tour the facilities before grabbing a bottle or two for the holiday apartment. Our tip? Try the dry Malvasia – a refreshingly lemony white.

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Above, Timanfaya National Park where nature hit out like a kid in a sandpit. Below left, Alicia Chance at Bodega Stratvs, and right, farmhouse vibe at Bodega.

Titeroygatra, meaning red or ruddy mountain, was what the earliest settlers called it (“Lanzarote” came later, after the Genoese navigator Lancelotto Malocello made landfall in 1312). If your kids are even remotely interested in eruptions, lava fields, volcanic tubes and tales of destruction and derring-do, then you should slot aside at least an afternoon to explore. My tip? Make a beeline for Timanfaya National Park (reservasparquesnacionales.es; €8pp, including coach tour), a landscape straight out of Lord of the Rings. In the 1730s, a series of eruptions here stopped just 300 metres short of Yaiza (the “lucky

town”), with witnesses standing aghast as “an enormous mountain arose out of the heart of the earth”. Nature hit the place like a kid in a sandpit, and the earth is still baking. At the visitor centre, a short tour includes the opportunity to touch some freshly shovelled dirt (it’s too hot to hold), to watch as a clump of straw is tossed into a pit (it catches fire) and to see what happens when a bucket of water is poured down a drain (seconds later, it is spat back up like a geezer). Drill down just 13 metres, we are told, and the temperatures reach a mind-blowing 600oC ... and that’s almost three centuries after the last eruption. Afterwards, we take a coach tour on a short circuit of the lava fields. fields. Vultures nest in the craters. Aside from the odd hardy bush, the place looks like the aftermath of some great battle, a wasteland left behind by marauding Orcs. If you don’t fancy the coach, you can join a camel train for a short ride (€12 per animal) at Echadero de los Camellos. Camellos Timanfaya’s visitor centre was designed by


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Family holiday | lanzarote

César Manrique (1919-1992), the local architect whose work cannot – and should not – be avoided on the island. Similar to Gaudi in Barcelona, Manrique was rooted in place, a visionary who blessed Lanzarote not just with several brilliant set-pieces but who helped to ensure that its tradition for white buildings was maintained, and high-rise resorts were never allowed free rein. Of course, not many children will appreciate being dragged from the beach to see masterpieces like the Cactus Garden or El Mirador del Rio. Better to hedge your bets with a visit to Los Jameos del Agua (+34 928 848 020; €9/€4.50), a partially-collapsed volcanic tube

in the lava fields of La Corona. A spiralling staircase here leads you into an underground oasis subtly enhanced by Manrique, and whose visitor centre deals with the science of seismology and the formation of the Canary Islands. The highlight is a subterranean pool of water dotted with blind albino crabs. The darkness has caused a lack of pigmentation in the animals, which are initially hard to spot. Once your eyes get used to the conditions, however, they start popping up all over the place – milky white, miniature creatures straight out of an episode of The Octonauts. Speaking of Octonauts, Lanzarote also offers the opportunity for real-life

Three unusual attractions ...

1

el mirador del río César Manrique set out to slot this viewing tower as unobtrusively as possible into the Risco de Famara cliff ... and succeeded wonderfully. At a height of 474 metres, its curving windows overlook dramatic ocean views, and even the souvenir shop is beautiful. Check the weather before you visit, as clouds can obscure the panorama. turismolanzarote.com

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la Cueva de los verdes Lanzarote’s “Green Caves” are part of an underground system formed during the eruption of the Corona volcano, and were once used by locals hiding from pirate raids. Visitors pick their way through a spooky underworld of rock formations, the highlight of which is an optical illusion played to maximum effect by guides. +34 928 848 484

OctOber/nOvember 2013

3

César Manrique's masterpiece designs – El Mirador del Rio, above, and Los Jameos del Agua, right, a semicollapsed volcanic tube that is now an oasis.

the lanzarote ironman Lanzarote’s spring climate, which averages 22°c year-round, makes it an excellent location for hiking and biking. Every May, the Lanzarote Iron Man triathlon sees participants swim 3.8 kilometres, cycle 180 kilometres and run a full marathon, with top finishers qualifying for the world championships in Hawaii. ironmanlanzarote.com


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ILLUSTRATION BY ANNE SMITH

Family Holiday | lanzarote

Sea antics – underwater, right and, below, above water with pirates aboard the Catlanza.

underwater adventures in a yellow submarine sailing out of Puerto Calero (submarinesafaris.com submarinesafaris.com; €55/€32, with a 15 per cent discount if you book online). The boat actually dives 25 to 30 metres below the surface – as opposed to having a glass-bottom – so you can peer through the portholes as creatures such as bream and stingray breeze by outside. The subs were designed and built in Finland, and maintain the cabin at normal atmospheric conditions, so you don’t need to worry about ears popping, either – and younger guests are welcome. Another boat is docked beside Notice a thin layer of dust on your rental car or apartment steps? It may well have travelled from the Sahara desert. Lanzarote is just 127 kilometres off the coast of Africa.

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the submarine in Puerto Calero when I visit – the Catlanza, a luxury catamaran sailing south to the golden beaches of Papagayo (catlanza.com; €59/€39). On board, staff in pirate costumes issue chipper greetings before inviting you to take a seat for a pun-filled safety briefing (“Don’t worry about the exits, they’re all around you …”), pumping up the tunes and ladling out the house punch. Both family and adult-only sailings are available, and it takes about an hour to get to Papagayo, with only the odd scattering of whitewashed villages breaking up the parched coastline. The beaches here are some of Lanzarote’s finest – hidden away in the Parque Natural de los Ajaches, and otherwise accessible only by dirt track. Dropping anchor, some of us break out the snorkels and hit the water; others chill out on deck, thunder down the on-board slide or take a spin on the back of the boat’s jet-ski. After playing around with fish taking refuge under the shade of the catamaran, I grab a helping from an enormous pot of pasta. Shortly afterwards, the anchor is raised and we’re headed back to Puerto Calero. A final beach worth travelling for is Famara, on the northwest coast. Stretching several kilometres along the foot of the Famara Mountains, this sandy strip boasts some of Lanzarote’s most consistent year-round surf, which means kids can practise all they like in shortie wetsuits (or just plain shorts) without freezing their butts off. Don’t worry if you haven’t stood on a board before, either – lessons range from beginner sessions in waist-deep water to more advanced techniques in bigger waves. There are several schools on the beach; you can book from Ireland through surfholidays. com, or simply rent a board from around €9 a day. In Lanzarote, a little exploration can bring very big rewards.

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food and drink | toronto

a noSE JoB

Wherever you go in Canada’s largest city, the chances are you’ll smell something cooking. Dick Snyder gives us a whistlestop tour of some of the best eateries in Toronto's new and distinctive gourmet scene. Photographs by Rick O'Brien.

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Pretty as a picture – even the open kitchen at Belong Café, at the Evergreen Brickworks, is a work of art. Moreover, it makes a mean brunch.

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FOOD AND DRINK | TORONTO

o, you’ve arrived in downtown Toronto. You step out of your transport and, no matter what neighbourhood you happen to be in, more than likely you’ll smell something cooking. It might be a

S

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margherita pizza, or fish deep frying for a Latininspired taco. It could be a gourmet doughnut, or maybe the pork-bone broth for a Korean kimchi soup. It might be southern BBQ or Jamaican jerk. Or even a delicious composition of scents that defies description, but stimulates the senses nonetheless. You’ve landed in a city newly obsessed with food. How fortunate for you. Canada’s largest city – a population of 2.79 million for Toronto and 5.5 million for what’s called the Greater Toronto Area – is home to about 200 distinct ethnic cultures. That translates into a lot of good eating – and an explosion of restaurants, markets, food shops and urban farms means the choices have never been greater. We used to compare ourselves to New York City – “that new restaurant is just so Lower East Side!” – but no longer. Toronto is defining its own gourmet

Top, hipster hub Queen Street West, rich with creative restaurants and bars. Above, our man, gourmand Dick Snyder. Left, picnic spot Trinity Bellwoods Park off Queen Street West.

scene with a new wave of chefs and restaurateurs hell bent on doing it their way. They’re young, tattooed, well-travelled and smart as hell. You can let your nose lead you around Toronto and, while you eat happily, you will also see the best of the city: its culture, its shopping districts and its people. Here’s all you need to know to get around like a pro: the CN Tower is basically at the bottom of downtown, a stone’s throw from Lake Ontario. That’s your landmark and, believe me, we all use it – I’ve lived here 20 years and it’s still my beacon. Toronto is a collection of neighbourhoods. There’s Little Italy, Little Portugal, Koreatown, Chinatown, Greektown, and more. These enclaves radiate from downtown, so they’re easy to get to, by foot, Bixi bike (public bikesharing scheme), taxi, streetcar or bus – and most are less than five kilometres east or west from downtown at Yonge Street.


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But before you set off, you need perspective. Start with a smart cocktail at the Roof Lounge of the Park Hyatt hotel (parktoronto. hyatt.com). This is near the centre of the high-end shopping district of Yorkville, where Canada’s luxury department store Holt Renfrew (holtrenfrew.com) holds sway over a collection of retailers such as Gucci, Louis Vuitton and Hermes. The Roof Lounge is a charming microcosm of the hotel bar lounge of yesteryear, with uniformed staff and old-school cocktails. From the tiny terrace on the 18th floor, you can see the whole of downtown, with the CN Tower glittering in the distance. Yorkville is a fun place to wander. Stop for an espresso at Lettieri (lettiericafe.com) on Cumberland and watch the meticulously coiffed shoppers. ONE (one.mcewangroup. ca), the restaurant at the Hazelton Hotel, is a true scene, its streetside patio a draw for visiting celebrities. Prices are stratospheric. This midtown area is home to some of the most haute of the city’s restaurants, including classics such as Opus (opusrestaurant.com) and Barberian’s (barberians.com), with their deep and vast wine cellars, as well as Café Boulud and dbar (fourseasons.com/ toronto) in the newly built Four Seasons on Avenue Road. It’s glitzy but friendly here, and anyone is welcome if $16 for a cocktail doesn’t make you blink. (At least the happyhour bar snacks are free.) In the business district, Vertical

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Restaurant (verticalrestaurant.ca), a modern Italian destination beside the stock exchange, used to be one of the few games in downtown – and a very good one at that. It’s been joined by Richmond Station (richmondstation.ca), with a focus on elegant farm-to-table meals based around house-butchered meats. Around the corner, The Chase and The Chase Fish & Oyster (thechasetoronto.com) opened in late summer in a restored historic building, with a powerhouse kitchen staff, fifth-floor indoor-outdoor patio and a serious wine list, heavy on Ontario vintages. These places are open all day, making them perfect stops for late lunch or snacks while browsing the dozens of independent stores

Listen up, oenophiles – The Chase Fish & Oyster, above, has a serious wine list, including Ontario vintages. Below left, executive chef Giacomo Pasquini working his magic at Vertical, and, below right, executive chef Jason Cox flanked by fine vino at Opus. Right, lively hotel The Drake.

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food and drink | toronto

Stay at … artSY A hotel with a heart of rock ’n’ roll, the drake (1150 Queen Street West, +1 416 531 5042; thedrakehotel.ca; queen bed from $189) is a party hotel geared to high-tech creative types with a penchant for modern décor, great sushi and a raucous bar scene. BoUtiQUE Intimate and elegant, the Hazelton Hotel (118 Yorkville Avenue, +1 416 963 6300; thehazeltonhotel.com; double rooms from $395) is part of the Leading Hotels of the World group and has 62 rooms, 15 suites and a full spa. Located near upmarket shopping, museums and art galleries. LUXUrY This Asian-styled luxury Shangri-La (188 University Avenue, +1 647 788 8888; shangrila.com; double rooms from $500) is well situated downtown, perfect for exploring the city’s central and west-end culture. New York celeb chef David Chang operates three Momofuku restaurants on the premises.


A watercolour painting by Róisín O’ Shea © 2012

J

ohnnie Fox’s Pub situated in the heart of the Dublin Mountains has it all, a living museum of Irish History and Tradition where unique pieces from old farm implements to Historical antiquities adorn every wall, nook & cranny. Serving an award winning a la carte menu from 12.30 until late, with live musicians playing traditional Irish music 7 nights a week, our special kind of Irish welcome is not to be missed.

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food and drink | toronto

along Yonge Street, as well as shopping malls The Eaton Centre and The Bay. If you get hungry mid-afternoon, stop at Bannock (oliverbonacini.com/bannock), in the base of The Bay Tower. Designed by one of the city’s top chefs, Anthony Walsh. His poutine pizza, combining the “junk” food aspect of poutine – a snack of French fries, gravy and cheese born in Quebec – along with duck confit poured onto a crispy pizza crust, is the restaurant’s most popular dish. For a deeper, top-end immersion into “Canadiana” cuisine, Walsh’s work at Canoe (oliverbonacini.com/ Canoe) is untouchable. Ingredients such as bison, char, birch syrup and foraged flora adorn the menu, made all the more spectacular for the view

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from the 54th floor of the TD Bank Tower. It’s a great stop for an early evening glass of wine overlooking Lake Ontario. For an even deeper immersion in “locavore” culture, a visit to the farmers’ market and gardens of the Evergreen Brick Works should be capped with a lunch or dinner at Café Belong (cafebelong.ca), where chef Brad Long helms quite possibly the most militantly Ontario-focused menu in the province. The emerging food scene of Toronto is being made in the west end of the city, where young careerists populate the newly built condos and swarm to nearby patios and restaurants by night. Ambitious fooderies, such as the Gusto 101 (gusto101.com), a high-concept,

Below left, bartender Maddy gets to work in the high-concept restaurant/snack bar Gusto 101. Middle, take your pick of The Pop Shoppe soda at Sanagan's Meat Locker and, right, Market 707 at Dundas & Bathurst, where refurbished shipping containers have become street food eateries.

two-level Italian restaurant and snack bar that serves great cocktails and wine on tap for $1 an ounce. A custom-made retractable glass roof means year-round weatherproof al fresco dining. The scene is convivial, loud, boisterous and easy to like. Kensington Market, a sprawling, walkable warren of streets and open-air food stalls, vintage clothing shops and knick-knacks of all kinds, is tucked just north of Dundas West at Bathurst. Roving TV chef Anthony Bourdain shot an episode of The Layover here last year, spending time drinking with the locals at dive bar Thirsty and Miserable. Coffee culture is big here – Jimmy’s (jimmyscoffee. ca) is one of the newest and most popular – as are Latin-influenced street-food kiosks and taco shops. A wave of young entrepreneurs has swept in and opened contemporary food shops, such as Sanagan’s Meat Locker (sanagansmeatlocker.com) – a butcher, deli and sandwich counter all rolled into one. Queen West is the place for hipster bars and creative (and often


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food and drink | toronto

You must see ...

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toronto islands It’s just a few minutes ferry ride from the base of Yonge Street to this historical Toronto playground. The islands have beaches, cottages, a yacht club, an amusement park, gardens and bike and boat rentals. $7/adult return fare; $3.50 under 13. toronto.ca/parks/island/ Yonge-dundas square There’s always something stirring in this public event space smack dab in the centre of downtown Toronto, from free concerts and performances to film screenings and cultural festivals. Visitors can linger and log onto free Wi-Fi. ydsquare.ca trinitY Bellwoods Park Bordered by Queen West and Dundas West, this downtown park has vast green space, tennis courts and a playground – also lots of dog walkers and artists. Grab an ice cream from White Squirrel Coffee (whitesquirrelcoffee.com) or have a pizza bike-delivered right to your spot (northofbrooklyn.com). trinitybellwoods.ca

tiff Bell lightBox The home of the Toronto International Film Festival houses five cinemas that screen international and Canadian works year round. There are two moviethemed galleries, a restaurant, bistro and lounge. tiff.net food trucks These kitchens on wheels were outlawed until just a few years ago, but more than 50 are now in active duty in and around the city and at events and festivals. Daily updates at ontariofoodtrucks.com and @ontfoodtrucks.

3 small and crowded) eateries. The County General (thecountygeneral. ca) celebrates bourbon and rum in powerful cocktails, with suitably “big” food like pulled pork or a whole suckling pig. A-OK (aokfoods.ca) is a delightful little ramen counter with a few tables, serving spicy soups late into the night. Just off Queen, the once dodgy Ossington Avenue strip has been reborn over the past five years into hipster ground zero, with the Bellwoods Brewery (bellwoodsbrewery.com) packing in beer fans for quick snacks and the latest cask offering, as well as growlers to go. For the city’s largest tequila list and some great live jazz, Reposado (reposadobar.com) is the place, while family-run Golden Turtle serves excellent pho, a Vietnamese beef and noodle soup popular with hung-over chefs. With new spots such as Geraldine (geraldinetoronto.com)

Anti-clockwise from top, Bellwoods Brewery is a mustvisit for beer fans; guilty pleasures galore at Glory Hole Doughnuts on Parkdale; ace sommelier, Krysta Oben of Geraldine restaurant; West Coast Poutine, one of more than 50 food trucks around the city.

By Bixi bike. You Best way to get around? nds all over the city. rent your wheels from sta and you’re off. A swipe of a credit card 94 |

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offering a quieter late-night atmosphere, replete with raw seafood bar, absinthe fountain and exotic wine choices, the late-nightparty zone of Parkdale is beginning to mature as a food destination. Krysta Oben, one of a new guard of talented young sommeliers, makes careful choices to complement Geraldine's classic bar snacks such Oysters Rockefeller and also to educate her loyal following. Parkdale has everything from divvy rock bars such as the Cadillac Lounge (cadillaclounge.com), which serves up some of the best slow-cooked barbecue around, to take-out gelato and pastry spots like Glory Hole Doughnuts (gloryholedoughnuts.com). At Porzia (porzia.ca), Michelle Nguyen serves

up unique cocktails such as the Mallard Reaction, a version of the Canadian classic known as the Caesar. It’s usually a vodka-spiked tomato and clam juice mixture, but Nguyen’s twist adds roasted duck vodka, mostarda, San Marzano tomatoes and a juniper rim. At the western stretch of Parkdale


Expert mixologist Michelle Nguyen at Porzia restaurant, where inventive cocktails give the likes of the plain Cosmo a run for its money.

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ILLUSTRATION BY STEVE McCARTHY

FOOD AND DRINK | TORONTO

you’ll encounter dozens of intriguing shops – lots of antiques and curios – as well as eateries. This is possibly Toronto’s most colourful – read: eclectic – zones, and you’ll see this come to life in places like Parts & Labour (partsandlabour. ca), a restaurant-nightclub presided over by the boisterous, gregarious and highly tattooed chef Matty Matheson. You’re now at the base of Roncesvalles, a gentrifying, Polish-rooted neighbourhood that is evolving fast. Gourmet shops such as The Mercantile (themercantile. ca) share the street with popular restaurants such as Barque (barque.ca), where in-demand barbecue causes major queues. Toronto’s east side can be a bit bleak until you reach the neighbourhoods of Cabbagetown, Riverside, Leslieville and The Danforth. But an emerging dining scene is partially responsible for an increasingly diverse population 96 |

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Left, chef Matty Matheson, presiding over the restaurant-cumnightclub, Parts & Labour. Below, grab-and-go snacks at Ruby Eats market.

seeking flavours that are at once ethnic-exotic and locally inspired. (Ah, yes, the quintessential Canadian conundrum!) Centred on Yonge-Dundas Square, Japanese izakaya and noodle spots have been popping up lately, with Don Don Izakaya (dondonizakaya.com) serving grilled marinated meats and a nice selection of sake, and, Sansotei (sansotei.com) firing out ramen noodles in rich pork broth. On The Danforth, a wide boulevard cutting through an area fondly known as Greektown, one of the city’s favourite gourmet pubs, Allen’s (allens.to), boasts possibly the city’s best burger as well as its prettiest backyard patio. Next door, Allen’s sister establishment Dora Keogh (allens.to/dora) pours international beers and hosts traditional Irish music “sessions” every Thursday and Sunday. From Riverside east to Leslieville, the shopping is browse-worthy and the dining options range widely. A popular spot is Ruby Watchco (rubywatchco.ca), run by Food Network TV star Lynn Crawford, with its daily changing menu of seasonal platters. Just down the street, her food shop Ruby Eats (rubyeats.com) serves up fresh produce and meats, as well as grab-and-go snacks. Wine bars are a big trend now, and the BBQ frenzy that grew up on the west side is finding a toehold here too. Possibly the most distinctive example of southern-style soul food can be found at Leslieville Pumps General Store and Kitchen (leslievillepumps.com), a gas station that serves pulled pork and brisket sandwiches. Fuelled up in more ways than one, your last stop on the eastern fringe of Toronto should be The Feather’s Pub & Single Malt Bar (thefeatherspub. ca which carries one of the best ca), selections of whiskies in the city. So you may as well stay a while. COMMENCING APRIL 2014, AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO TORONTO DAILY; TO BOOK, AERLINGUS.COM.


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BeinG theRe | san FRancisco

Drink at …

48 hours in

San Francisco

It’s in a downtown alley, easy to miss. It’s lined with smoky mirrors and dark brick walls. It exudes mystery, romance, noir … so San Francisco. Gitane Restaurant & Bar (6 Claude Lane, +1 415 788 6686; gitanerestaurant.com) is a perfect spot for feeling furtive while sipping a sherry-infused cocktail or Spanish red.

Yes, those little cable cars climb halfway to the stars, but there’s much, much more to see, taste and enjoy in San Francisco, as Jules Older discovers.

Shop at …

Don’t miss ...

It’s America; shopping is done here. Popular favourites are the exemplary Ferry Building and the bargaindriven Ross Dress For Less, both an easy walk from Union Square. But for quality souvenirs of your trip, head for the Golden Gate Bridge (+1 415 426 5220; goldengatebridge.org/ gift). There, the Golden Gate Bridge Pavilion sells books and bookends, ties and T-shirts, unframed posters and umbrellas.

Clockwise from top, channel old world glamour at Gitane Restaurant & Bar; educational fun and games at the Exploratorium; up the Giants at the AT&T stadium; a rather famous bridge ...

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neRD heaVen It’s a must for science-loving kids and parents in touch with their inner geek. “In touch” is key: nearly every exhibit is an experiential learning opportunity. And while the exploratorium (Pier 15 on the Embarcadero, +1 415 528 4360; exploratorium.edu) is more than 40 years old, its bayside site is brand, spanking new. PLoWshaRes Nearly everybody goes to Golden Gate Park, and for good reason. It’s big, varied, and has the de Young Museum, the California Academy of Sciences and the scent-filled botanical garden. But, another less-visited park is equally time-worthy. The Presidio (+1 415 561 3040; nps.gov/prsf/index.htm) was a fort from 1776 until 1994, when its swords were beaten into a park filled with mighty trees, gobsmacking views and centuries of Spanish, Mexican and American history. It also houses

the exemplary Walt Disney Family Museum and is the gateway to the Golden Gate Bridge. ReVUe America’s longest-running musical isn’t in Manhattan — it’s in San Francisco’s North Beach. Beach Blanket Babylon (678 Beach Blanket Babylon Boulevard, +1 415 421 4222; beachblanketbabylon.com) is a bigvoiced and big-hatted treat for the ears and eyes. And though the show’s been playing since 1974, it stays as fresh and topical as today’s headlines. Book early. sPoRt You can’t visit San Francisco without going to the ballpark to root, root, root for the home team. the san Francisco Giants (24 Willie Mays Plaza, +1 415 972 2000; sanfrancisco. giants.mlb.com) won baseball’s World Series twice in the past four years, and not only is AT&T Park the nation’s most winsome stadium, left, it looks right out on San Francisco Bay.


Sleep at ...

BUDGET The charming old San Remo Hotel (2237 Mason Street, +1 415 776 8688; sanremohotel.com) sits between Fisherman’s Wharf and North Beach. Rates are low, folks are friendly, bathrooms are shared, and you can walk to just about anywhere, including Chinatown and City Lights Bookstore. Rooms from $69.

Eat at …

ITALIANO When you walk in the door of Capannina (1809 Union Street, +1 415 409 8001; capanninasf. com) you enter the warmth, aromas and essence of Italy. Don’t miss … well, actually you can’t find a lessthan-stellar dish at Capannina, so don’t worry about what not to miss. DINER Louis’ Restaurant (902 Point Lobos Avenue, +1 415 387 6330; louissf.com) is, at heart, an American diner … with the finest view of any diner anywhere. Louis’ sits on a cliff overlooking the sprays and plumes of the Pacific shore. Order a burger, shake and fries. Cash only. DRAG San Francisco is known for three things: Asian influence; great food and gender bending. You can get all three at AsiaSF (201 9th Street, +1 415 255 2742; asiasf.com), a restaurant-club that features a delicious and reasonably priced menu plus a racy, lip-syncing floorshow starring gorgeous Georgias who started life as George. The diners/ audience? Bachelorette parties, out-of-towners, locals showing off for out-of-towners.

Clockwise from top, a quintessential street view of San Francisco; the very inviting pool at Handlery Union Square Hotel; the Palace Hotel's glorious dining hall; it's feeding time at Louis's Restaurant.

MIDPRICE Want to meet Kiwis and Aussies on your trip? The Handlery Union Square Hotel (351 Geary Street, +1 415 781 7800; sf.handlery. com) is filled with these famously thrifty travellers. It’s family owned, and a short stroll from Union Square, the new Apple Store and those cable cars. There’s even an outdoor pool, above. Rooms from $169. SPLURGE Not only does the Palace Hotel (2 New Montgomery Street, +1 415 512 1111; sfpalace.com) have the most beautiful dining room, below, in North America, its Pied Piper Bar & Grill has courted controversy. When the hotel owners tried to sell its Maxfield Parrish “Pied Piper” painting, there was public outrage. It's back, and thanks to presale restoration, brighter than ever. Rooms from $219.

COMMENCING APRIL 2014, AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO SAN FRANCISCO FIvE TIMES A WEEK; TO BOOK, AERLINGUS.COM.

october/november 2013

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Tel: +353 1 4135177 Email: info@steljes.ie

www.steljes.ie


The PARQUE DEL BUEN RETIRO (Plaza de la Independencia) is the most popular park in Madrid. Opened to the public in 1868, this 320-acre gem was originally created as a royal park outside the city walls. It can get crowded during weekends when Madrilenian families go for a stroll and to enjoy the buskers, painters, fortune tellers, jugglers and street performers. Or you can rent a boat on the lake.

An insider’s guide to

When I want great service and an unparalleled view of Madrid, I take a seat on the TERRAZA DEL MUSEO REINA SOFIA (Glorieta del Emperador Carlos V, +34 917 741 000; museoreinasofia.es). The leafy trees, fountains and sculptures from the museum collections make for an idyllic pit stop in the centre of the city.

Madrid

Tara Mavrikis takes us sightseeing around her adopted city of Madrid.

The LAGASCA area is one of the main shopping areas in the city. Shopping fiends will thrive here. Two noteworthy outlets are: Pretty Ballerinas (Calle de Lagasca 30; prettyballerinas.es) – the perfect shoes to explore Madrid in – comfortable, yet oh, so pretty! And the best multi-brand shop just has to be Piamonte (Calle de Lagasca 28).

I just love the HOTEL ROOM MATE ÓSCAR (Plaza Vázquez de Mella 4, +34 917 011 173; room-matehotels.com Rooms from ¤100). It mixes fashion, music, food and entertainment and you can do anything from sunbathing to having a drink in one of the most popular areas of Madrid. Try the rooftop terrace at night.

If being surrounded by beautiful people and listening to cool music while enjoying fantastic food is your thing, then RAMSES LIFE (Plaza Independencia, 4 Puerta de Alcalá, +34 914 351 666; ramseslife.com) is the place to be for Sunday brunch.

LE CABRERA (Calle Bárbara de Braganza 2, +34 913 199 457; lecabrera.com) is one of my favourite places. Head here for any event or celebration, but especially for Sunday brunch. Benedictine eggs, pancake towers and cheesecake are just some of the succulent options. Apart from the amazing Sunday brunch, it’s one of the best cocktail bars in town.

More about Tara

Tara Mavrikis has been living in Madrid since 1992. Her name says it all: half Irish (her mother) and half Greek (her father). She has lived all over the world, including Ireland, Greece, Australia, Belgium, the US and Spain, and now speaks English, Greek, Spanish and French. She loves to learn about new places, especially about their culture and food. She has two children: eleven-year-old Nicolás and twelve-year-old Carlota.

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HOTEL HOSPES MADRID (Plaza de la Independencia, 3, +34 914 322 911; hospes.com. Rooms from ¤220 B&B) is an elegant, five-star five-star hotel set in a historic building that has been fully refurbished and offers offers 41 marvellous rooms. The Prado Museum, the Reina Sofia Sofia Museum and Cybeles Fountain are within a short walking distance. Guests get free bicycle rental so they can explore the city.

When I first visited NO (Calle Puigcerdà 8, +34 914 316 456; norestaurant.es), I could not get over how amazing it was. It is also very popular for après work gin tonics, something that has become the “in” thing to do during the evening. Highly recommended.

I could spend hours in the CHUECA DISTRICT (Calle Barquillo and Calle de Almirante). It’s the most modern district in Madrid with thousands of amazing multi-brand shops, clothes, shoes and accessories. I always pop into El Ganso y El niño (elganso.com), Enjabonarte (enjabonarte.es) – which sells fragrant natural (enjabonarte.es soap, left – Hoss Intropia (hossintropia.com), Javier Simorra (simorra.com) for a peek at the latest designer gems, Monica García (monicagarcia.com) garcia.com for my shoe fix and The Hip T (thehiptee.com) (thehiptee.com to top up my T-shirt collection.

About 42 kilometres south of Madrid is ARANJUEZ (aranjuez.es). This must-see town buzzes at weekends, is historically interesting and you’ll find plenty of good restaurants. If hunger strikes, I treat myself at Casa José (Calle de Abastos 32, +34 918 911 488; casajose.es).

Clubbers wouldn’t dream of putting on their dancing shoes before 2am in Madrid. For a night of shenanigans, my three top clubs are Esnobissimo (Calle de Arapiles 13), Fortuny (Calle de Fortuny 34), and, for the most extensive drinks menu in the world, it has to be GABANA 1800 (Calle de Velázquez 6, +34 915 751 846; gabana.es), in one of the most luxurious hotels in the city.

The crème de la crème of Madrid flock to ZONA JORGE JUAN (Callejón de Jorge Juan; zonajorgejuan.com) – Hugo Boss, Gant and Marni are just some of the high-end brands available in this designer haven. Raasta (Calle de Jorge Juan, 12, +34 917 812 311; raasta.com.es) boasts a range of brands to suit all tastes. For accessories, it has to be Yokana, and Pedro Garcia (pedrogarcia. com) is every shoe lover’s dream. SAN LORENZO DE EL ESCORIAL (Plaza de España 1, El Escoria; el-escorial.com) is an absolute must. The picturesque 16th-century building complex is on the outskirts of Madrid but easily accessible by train from the city centre 45 kilometres away. El Charoles (Calle de Floridablanca 24, +34 918 905 975) is my favourite lunch spot, and for coffee coffee I go to the fabulous 1920s Parisian-style café Croché (+34 918 905 282; crochecafetin.com).

AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO MADRID DAILY.

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O

’Neill’s is one of Dublin’s most famous and historic pubs. Centuries of Dublin history surround the world-renowned O’Neill’s. Just around the corner from Trinity College, Grafton Street and the Molly Malone Statue, trade has flourished uninterrupted for over 300 years. O’Neill’s is conveniently set in the heart of Dublin.

Our fully-refurbished Roof-Top Beer Garden & Smoking Area

When you pay us a visit you will receive a warm and friendly welcome and you can enjoy its ageless character, numerous alcoves, snugs, nooks and crannies. To make your visit as enjoyable as possible we offer you ... ●

Extensive Irish Food Menu and Famous Carvery serving only the finest Irish Meat, Fish and Vegetables. In fact, Lonely Planet rate us as one of the Top 5 Places to find ´Real Irish food in Dublin´.

Traditional Irish Music 7 nights-a-week

Roof-Top Beer Garden and Smoking Area

Largest selection of local Irish Craft Beers in Ireland

Pour Your Own Pint tables

Free Wi-Fi to all our Customers

HD and 3D Screens for the Sports Fan with major international league games.

‘Really Good’ Full Irish Breakfast only

€6.95

Available Mon-Fri, 8am-11.30am

M.J. O’Neill Suffolk Street, Dublin 2 Tel. 01 679 3656 www.oneillsbar.com

Mon-Thurs: 8.00am-11.30pm Fri: 8.00am-12.30am Sat: 8.00am-12.30am Sun: 8.00am-11.00pm SatNav 53.343958, -6.260796

“Top 5 places to find Real Irish Food in Dublin”

2013 Les Routiers Pub of The Year


Spotlight | munich

Sun bathers beside the Isar, which, at nearly 160 kilometres, is the fourth longest river in Bavaria.

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REASONS TO VISIT MUNICH

ALESCHA BIRKENHOLZ

Munich’s mighty Oktoberfest ends on October 6, but Lucy White discovers that Bavaria’s capital bubbles all year round.

Eating and drinking

For cerebral soirées in a handsome setting, head to the chic Goldene Bar (goldenebar.de), above, inside the contemporary art museum, Haus de Kunst. Also popular is the trendy Roecklplatz (roecklplatz. de), which was inspired by Jamie Oliver’s London restaurant Fifteen, offering employment for disengaged young people, and where staples such as schnitzel and pasta dishes are well executed and presented. Les Deux (lesdeux.de) has become a huge hit with locals since it opened a year ago. There's a casual brasserie on the ground floor, and a fine dining restaurant upstairs. And even the staunchest carnivore will be impressed by the upscale vegetarian eatery Prinz Myshkin (prinzmyshkin.com), where dishes range from artfully arranged fried soy medallions to involtini teriyaki. But a trip to Munich wouldn’t be complete without a visit to at least one beer hall. Founded in 1589 to service the Bavarian royal family, Hofbräuhaus (hofbraeuhaus.de) – and the one-time local boozer of Mozart, who claims to have written the opera Idomeneo after one particularly inspiring session – it's now a tourist trail staple but well worth a pint or two.

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Spotlight | munich

WASSILY KANDINSKY, IMPRESSION III (KONZERT), 1911, STRÄDTISCHE GALERIE IM LENBACHHAUS MÜNCHEN © VG BILD-KUNST MÜNCHEN

Arts and culture This summer the lenbachhaus gallery (lenbachhaus.de) unveiled its new NormanFoster-designed, three-storey wing that houses Expressionist works by “the Blue Rider” group (Wassily Kandinsky, work right, Paul Klee and Franz Marc, etc). Also in the “Kunstareal” art quarter, is the pinakothek der moderne (pinakothek.de), where runs an exhibition of works by Canadian artist Jeff Wall from November 7 until March 9. His influential, genre-busting oeuvre of paintings, photographs, sculpture and film ingeniously blurs the lines between fact and fiction. Off the beaten track – specifically in an old subway station – is the maximiliansForum (maximiliansforum.de), a multi-disciplinary arts space exploring the dialogue between architecture, fine art, music and fashion. Check out Stefan Winter’s three soundscapes On the Path of Death and Life from October 31 to November 24, conceived shortly after the Fukushima catastrophe in Japan. And classical music doesn’t get much better than the Bavarian State opera (bayerische.staatsoper.de) performing in Munich’s grand National Theatre, which also hosts the Bavarian State Ballet.

Shopping Munich has a wide variety of shopping opportunities. Following in the success of super-cool menswear emporium harvest (harvest-shop.de) is the womenswear boutique Sprout (sprout-store.com), also helmed by graphic designer Philip Stolte. Expect brands big and small in a beautifully curated setting, left. For a mixture of vintage finds and labels by emerging designers, try 7 himmel (siebterhimmel.com); pool and its sister discount outlet pop-let (verypoolish.com) boast big fashion brands including Malene Birger, McQ and Acne, plus cosmetics, electronics and home furnishings, and gorgeous and affordable handmade porcelain and ceramics – especially the lacepatterned bowls – at 1260 grad (1260grad. de) make for lovely gifts. Hip, young areas of Schwabing, haidhausen, gärtnerplatz and glockenbachviertel are all great for independent boutiques, and lest we forget the festive christkindlmarkt (christkindlmarktmuenchen.de), which this year runs from November 25 to December 24 beside City Hall. Glüchwein here we come ...

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Your luxury lakeside escape... October Midweek B&B - €100 per person sharing

With a complimentary upgrade to a Deluxe Lakeview room (subject to availability) Valid on selected dates during October

November B&B from €95 per person sharing Open Thurs - Sun during November

All guests enjoy complimentary access to the Active Level of ESPA at The Europe. Horse Riding and Indoor Tennis are also complimentary Visit www.theeurope.com and discover why The Europe Hotel & Resort has been awarded ‘Best Five Star Hotel in Ireland’ & ‘Supreme Winner of 2012 Gold Medal Award for Excellence’ - Hotel & Catering Review Awards

The Europe Hotel & Resort, Fossa, Killarney, Co. Kerry Tel: 064 66 71300 Email: reservations@theeurope.com Web:www.theeurope.com Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheEurope


Spotlight | munich

GNTB/ALBERTO BONOMINI

Relaxation Autumnal walks can be enjoyed in the gargantuan Englischer garten, which at 365 hectares, is larger than New York’s Central Park, and festooned with lakes, four beer gardens, a Japanese tea house and even a standing wave used by surfers, left, on the River Eisbach. But if you’re seeking a cosier sanctuary, check out five-star hotel Bayerischer hof (bayerischerhof.de), whose Blue Spa has panoramic views of the city from its outdoor pool terrace with sliding glass roof – in wintertime, the space is lit with roaring fires. In contrast, though still impressive, is the müller’sche Volksbad public baths (swm.de), which was donated to the city of Munich by engineer Karl Müller in 1901 on condition it be built for the poor. It has been painstakingly restored back to its Art Nouveau glory over the years; the sauna is closed until mid-November for further renovations. And east meets west at Aiyasha Spa (aiyasha-spa.de), a tranquil day spa offering Oriental and remedial treatments. Prices start at €29.

… And where to stay If money’s no object, splurge at the mandarin oriental munich (mandarinoriental.com/munich), just a weisswurst’s throw away from the marienplatz. Originally constructed as an opera house in 1880, the handsome property now has an outdoor heated pool, right, a Michelin-starred restaurant (Mark’s, by chef Simon Larese) and free Mercedes Benz bike hire. Double rooms from €525. Also rich in heritage is the Eden hotel Wolff (edenhotel-wolff.de), which was once the residence of King Ludwig from 1864-1886. It’s handily positioned opposite the Central Station, and the alpine rooms are particularly gorgeous for a winter break. Double rooms €149. Also within easy reach of Central Station is marc hotel (hotel-marc.de). Ordinary looking from the outside but modern of design and warm of welcome inside, it’s a hotspot for a business travellers. Double rooms from €106.50. And if you like a 1960s vibe with your mod-cons, check out cocoon hotels on Lindwurmstr and Adolf-Kolping Strasse respectively (hotel-cocoon.de). Double rooms from €99.

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AER linguS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO munich DAILY, AND FROM CORK, TWICE WEEKLY.


naturally maldives

For a stress free holiday, why not escape to Kuramathi Island Resort in the Maldives? Set in Rasdhoo Atoll, Kuramathi is a lush island retreat surrounded by powder white beaches including a stretch of sandbank at the tip of the island. It is an island of many choices and offers something for everyone. Topflight Worldwide, Ireland's award-winning tour operator, are delighted to offer 7 nights on Full Board at Kuramathi Island Resort, Maldives in a Beach Villa, including return flights ex Dublin via Istanbul and return sea plane transfers to resort. Prices are from â‚Ź 1559 per person, based on two sharing. Valid for Travel May/Jun 2014.

T - 01 240 1788

E - worldwide@topflight.ie

W - www.topflightworldwide.ie

www.kuramathi.com KURAMATHI ISLAND RESORT Universal Resorts, 39 Orchid Magu, PO Box 2015, MalĂŠ, Republic of Maldives Phone: +960 666 0527 | Fax: +960 666 0556 | Email: info@kuramathi.com


Ireland’s Blue Book is a romantic collection of Irish country house hotels, manor houses, castles and restaurants. Located throughout the island of Ireland these charming and stylish hideaways are ideal for midweek escapes or weekend breaks. www.irelandsbluebook.com / T +353 1 676 9914


INFLIGHT

Inflight

For your guide to our new and exciting On Demand movies and television programmes, including Monsters University (pictured), turn to page 116.


inflight

Welcome Aboard for your comfort and safety Please pay attention while the cabin crew demonstrate the use of the safety equipment before take-off. Also, make sure to read the safety instruction card, which is in the seat pocket in front of you. Seat belts must be fastened during take-off and landing, and whenever the “Fasten Seat Belts” sign is switched on. We recommend that you keep your seat belt loosely fastened throughout the flight.

Your seat must be in the upright position during takeoff and landing, but can be reclined by pressing the large button in the armrest. Other buttons (in the armrest or above your head, depending on the aircraft) may be used to operate your reading light and air vent, or to call a cabin attendant.

ar mhaithe de do chompord agus le do shábháilteacht ... ... iarraimid ort aird mhaith a thabhairt, ar an bhfoireann cábáin ag tús na heililte agus iad ag taispeáint conas an fearas slándála a úsáid. Iarraimid ort an cárta threoraca slándála atá i bpóca an tsuíocháin os do chomhair a léamh chomh maith. Caithfear criosanna sábhála bheith ceangailte le linn éirí agus tuirlingthe agus ag aon am a bhíonn an comhartha “Fasten Seat Belts” ar iasadh. Molaimid duit an crios sábhála bheith leathcheangailte agat i rith an turais.

Le linn éirí agus tuirlingthe, ní mór do shuíochan bheith sa suíomh ingearach. Ag am ar bith eile, is féidir an suíochán a chur siar ach brú ar an gcnaipe mór atá ar an taca uillinne. Tá cnaipí eile ann (ar an taca uillinne nó os do chionn, ag brath ar an eitleán) chun úsáid a bhaint as an solas léitheoireachta nó as an ngaothaire, nó chun glaoch ar bhall den fhoireann cábáin.

Portable electronic equipment Portable electronic equipment may interfere with aircraft equipment, creating a potentially hazardous situation. With safety as our priority, we ask you to pay particular attention to the following: Mobile phones and all other personal electronic equipment must be switched off and stowed safely as soon as the aircraft doors are closed. It is not permissible to use any electronic device to transmit or receive data during the flight, however devices equipped with flight mode, or the equivalent, may be used. Flight mode should be selected before the device is switched off. Devices PermitteD at any ✔ time: Devices powered by micro battery cells and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers.

Devices PermitteD in flight ● but not During taxi/takeoff/initial climb/aPProach

lanDing: Laptops with CD ROM or DVD drive, palmtop organisers, handheld calculators without printers, portable audio equipment (eg Walkman, CD-player, Mini-disk player, iPod and MP3-player). For the comfort of other passengers, audio devices should be used with a headset. Computer games (eg Gameboy, Nintendo DS). Video cameras/ recorders, digital cameras, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers, electronic toys. Bluetooth devices with mobile phones in “Flight” mode, devices with “Blackberry” technology with “Flight”/Flight Safe” mode

selected, laptops, PDAs with built-in Wi-Fi with “Wireless Off” setting selected. Devices ProhibiteD at all ✘ times: Devices transmitting radio frequency intentionally such as

walkie-talkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and Mini-disk Recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN). Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.

a330 aircraft fitted with Wi-fi and a mobile network Wireless settings on your personal electronic devices can be turned on in-flight. If availing of the Mobile Network, phones should not be switched to “Flight” or “Flight Safe” mode.

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Aer Lingus is delighted to welcome you on board Tá áthas ar Aer Lingus fáilte ar bord a chur romhat

Food and bar service

Seirbhís bia agus beáir

A new range of food items – including sandwiches, confectionery and a range of snacks – is available for sale on all Aer Lingus scheduled services to and from the UK and Europe. A charge applies for all drinks on UK and European flights in Economy class. On long haul flights, there is a charge in Economy class for alcoholic drinks, while soft drinks are complimentary. Details of all items available for purchase are contained in an information leaflet, which is in all seat pockets.

Tá raon nua bia ar fáil anois ar sheirbhísí sceidealta Aer Lingus a dhéanann freastai ar an Riocht Aontaithe agus ar an Eoraip. Ina measc, tá ceapairí, milseogra agus rogha sneaiceanna éagsúla. Ní mór íoc as gach deoch sa ghrád barainne ar na heitiltí seo. Ar eitiltí Trasatlantacha, tá costas ar dheochanna neamh-mheisciúla go fóill ar fáil saor in aisce. Tá sonraí faoi gach rud is féidir a cheannach ar bord foilsithe sa bhileog eolais atá i bpóca an tsuíocháin os do chomhair.

News, music and movies

Nuacht, ceol agus scannáin

On long haul flights, we offer you an extensive programme of viewing and listening options. For full details, turn towards the back of this magazine.

Ar eitiltí Trasatlantacha tá clár leathan féachana agus éisteachta ar fáil. Le hagaidh tuilleadh eolais, féach deireadh na hirise seo.

Fearas iniompartha leictreonach Is féidir le fearas iniompartha leictreonach cur isteach ar threalamh an eitleáin, rud a d’fhéadfadh bheith contúirteach. Agus sábháilteacht mar phríomhchúram ag Aer Lingus, iarraimid ort aird sa bhreis a thabhairt ar an mír seo a leanas: Caithfear gach guthán póca agus gach fearas pearsanta leictreonach a mhúchadh agus a chur i dtaisce a luaithe agus a dhúntar doirse an eitleáin. Ní ceadmhach úsáid a bhaint as uirlis leictreonach ar bith chun sonraí a tharchur nó a ghlacadh i rith na heitilte. Is ceadmhach, áfach, uirlisí le cumas “mód eitilte”, nó a chomhionann sin, a úsáid. Caithfear an lipéad “modh eitilte” a roghnú sula múchtar an uirlis. GLéAsAnnA A bhfuIL ✔ ceAdAIthe I GcónAí: Gléasanna a bhaineann úsáid as

micreaceallairí agus/nó fotaichill; cluaisíní chúnta (gléasanna digiteach san áireamh); glaoirí (gleacadáin amháin); séadairí.

GLéAsAnnA Atá ● ceAdAIthe I rIth nA heItILte, Ach nAch

bhfuIL ceAdAIthe Le LInn don eItLeán bheIth AG GLuAIseAcht Ar tALAmh/AG éIrí de thALAmh/ AG tAbhAIrt fAoIn dreApAdh tosAIGh/ AG dírIú Ar thuIrLInGt/ AG tuIrLInGt: Ríomhairí glúine le tiomántán dlúthdhiosca (CD ROM) nó diosca digiteach ilúsáide (DVD). Eagraithe pearsanta boise. Áireamháin láimhe gan phrintéiri. Clostrealamh iniompartha (ms Walkman, seinnteoir CD, seinnteoir

Mini-disk, iPod, seinnteoir MP3). Ar mhaithe le compord na bpaisinéiri eile, níor choir na gléasanna seo a úsáid ach amháin le cluaisíní. Cluichí ríomhaire (ms Gameboy). Níl cead gaireas forimeallach a úsáid le cluichí láimhe ríomhaire am ar bith (ms paca forlíontach cumhachta a cheanglaítear le cábla). Físcheamaraí agus fístaifeadáin, trealamh digiteach san áireamh. Ceamaraí digiteach. Glacadóirí láimhe chóras suite domhanda (GPS). Rásúir leicreacha. Bréagáin leictreonacha (seachas bréagáin chianrialaithe). Gléasanna “Bluetooth” i gcomhar le gutháin phóca agus iad i “modh eitilte”; uirlisí a bhaineann feidhm as teicneolaíocht “Blackberry” agus “mód eitilte” nó “slánmhód eitilte” roghnaithe orthu; ríomhairí glúine; ríomhairí boise (PDA) le Wi-Fi ionsuite agus an lipéad “raidió múchta” roghnaithe orthu.

GLéAsAnnA A bhfuIL ✘ cosc IomLán orthu: Gléasanna a tharchuireann

minicíocht raidió d’aon turas. Siúlscéalaithe. Bréagaín chianrialaithe. Aonaid fhístaispeána le feadáin ga-chatadóideacha. Trealamh ríomhaire gan sreang (ms luch). Printéirí PC. Schríbhneoiri DVD, CD agus taifeadáin Minidisk atá sa mhodh taifeadta. Ceamthaifeadáin digiteacha agus iad ag athscríobh dlúthdhioscaí. Steiréónna iniompartha. Raidiónna póca (AM/ FM). Glacadóiri teilifíse. Trealamh teiliméadrach. Ní cheadaítear fearas LAN gan sreang (WLAN) a úsáid. Is féidir ríomhairí glúine a bhfuil WLAN ionsuite iontu (ms Centrino) a úsáíd le linn na heitilte ar choinníoll go bhfuil WLAN curtha as agus faoi réir na srianta a bhaineann le húsáid ríomhhairí glúine (thuas luaite).

Tá ár n-eitleán A330 feistithe amach le WI-FI agus líonra móibíleach. Tá ár n-eitleán A330 feistithe amach le WI-FI agus líonra móibíleach. Is féidir leat an líonra gan sreang ar do ghléas phearsanta leictreonach a chur ar siúl nuair atá an t-eitleán san aer. Má tá tú chun úsáid a bhaint as an líonra móibíleach, níor chóir do na fóin a bheith casta chuig an mód ‘Eitilt’ nó an mód ‘Eitilt Slán’.

SmokINg In line with Irish government regulations, Aer Lingus has a nosmoking policy onboard its flights. Smoking is not permitted in any part of the cabin at any time. tobAc De réir rialacháin Rialtas na hÉireann, tá polasai i réim ar eitiltí Aer Lingus nach gceadaítear tobac a chaitheamh. Ní cheadaítear d’aon duine tobac a chaitheamh in aon chuid den eitleán ag aon am.

We hope you have a comfortable and pleasant

flight. Thank you for choosing to fly with Aer Lingus. Tá suil againn go mbíonn turas compordach taitneamhach agat agus go raibh maith agat as taisteal le hAer Lingus.

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Aer Lingus news SPREAD YOUR WINGS WITH THE NEW AER LINGUS WINTER SCHEDULE If you’re looking for winter sun, or a trip to the ski slopes, check out the new winter schedule from Aer Lingus. Not only have two new routes been added to the schedule but there are increased frequencies on twelve routes. For the first time, flights from Dublin to Toulouse will continue through the winter, giving easier access to ski resorts in the Pyrenees. Flights from Shannon to Lanzarote start on October 26 and continue through to the end of March, offering customers in the mid-west a GOING perfect winter sun STATESIDE to Boston will operate daily getaway. In addition, Aer Travelling to the US from services, year-round, from Lingus Regional operates Shannon and Dublin is easy January. two daily return flights with increased frequency It’s not just about flights from Dublin to Newcastle and access to up to 40 to and from Ireland either from October 24. destinations in North – Aer Lingus is improving Frequencies are America with airlines connectivity for those increased on a further partners. who wish to travel onwards. twelve popular routes such Customers connecting between as Lisbon, Malaga, Lyon, Paris, Europe and the US this winter have Geneva and Hamburg among others. more choice than before. US cities of New And for those thinking of a trip further York, Boston and Chicago can be easily afield, the long haul schedule has increased. reached from Rome, Malaga, Stockholm, Customers travelling between Dublin and Cardiff, Newcastle and Aberdeen, via Dublin Boston will benefit from an extra four weekly Airport. For more details and bookings, flights, bringing the total number of services aerlingus.com. per week to eleven. Flights from Shannon

schedule UP, UP AND AWAY Aer Lingus has an extensive iple daily of flights between Ireland and the UK with mult ingham. Birm return flights to London, Manchester and

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Best Foot Forward Aer Lingus’s Cork-based staff and their friends had a fun day out – and raised funds to help a local cancer support charity – back in July when they took to the roads for the Cork FIT Magazine City Series 10k run. In the week before the event, cabin crew collected donations from passengers onboard flights from Cork to raise a total of €14,000. Cork staff were asked to nominate and vote to select a local charity to support in the run. They chose the Cork ARC Cancer Support House, a voluntary organisation established to provide a holistic centre in which people with cancer and their families can find emotional support and practical help. If you want to help in any way, you can get more information on corkcancersupport.ie. Aer Lingus and Cork ARC would like to commend and thank all the passengers who generously donated in support of the charity.

Wi-Fi takes Flight If “going online” is part of your daily routine, then good news, Aer Lingus and Panasonic are rolling out incabin internet access and GSM services onboard transatlantic flights. For a small fee, your long-haul flight between Ireland and the US can now be highly productive and even more enjoyable by simply connecting to the Aer Lingus Wi-Fi network using your own personal device including laptop, tablet, mobile and smart phone. Panasonic’s Global Communications Suite and AeroMobile are providing these services, which also include SMS and mobile data. Please note, however, that voice telephony will not be permitted so passengers can still be sure of a peaceful flight. Wi-Fi is priced from €10.95/$14.95.


From left, Ulster rugby players Paddy Wallace, Paddy Jackson and Tommy Bowe.

The Sky is the Limit for Ulster Rugby Ulster Rugby players Tommy Bowe, Paddy Wallace and Paddy Jackson were on hand at George Best Belfast City Airport when Aer Lingus unveiled its new Ulster Rugby decals (stickers) on its Belfast planes. To demonstrate its commitment as Official Airline Sponsor of Ulster Rugby and support for the team, Aer Lingus will carry the proud sponsor logo for the upcoming season. Aer Lingus provides Ulster Rugby with air travel as well as

supporting the development of travel and accommodation packages for Ulster supporters to away matches. Ulster rugby fans can look forward to the coming season with sky-high confidence. Under the leadership of head coach Mark Anscombe the Ravenhill men will be determined to improve on last season. It’s onward and upward for the lads as they prepare for the battle ahead in the 2013/14 season.

Flying Colours

For the winter, Aer Lingus will continue to fly three times daily from George Best Belfast City airport to both London Heathrow and Gatwick. Flights are on sale now at aerlingus.com.

Clash of the Ash goes to US Hurling fans, listen up! The GAA and GPA, with the support of Aer Lingus, are staging the Super Hurling 11s – The Celtic Champions Classic at Notre Dame University In Indiana, US, on Saturday, October 19, to coincide with the biggest college football showdown of the season when Notre Dame take on arch rivals USC. The unique short-form of hurling has been devised and trialled over the past six months with a view to having a version of the game suitable to play

On Sunday, September 15, many thousands of people turned out in Dublin city to witness Flightfest, an historic flying parade of more than 30 civilian, military and vintage aircraft that had plane enthusiasts camping out on the best viewing spots hours before the take-off. Organised by the Irish Aviation Authority and Dublin City Council as part of The Gathering Ireland 2013, the aircraft flew low over the Liffey from Dublin Port to the Custom House to show off their colours. Aer Lingus displayed some of its best-loved craft, including an Airbus A320 decked out in 1960s retro livery, and an Airbus A330.

at established sporting venues in the United States. With up to 100,000 supporters expected on the South Bend campus for the evening football game, Ireland’s leading hurlers will, earlier that afternoon, perform the Super Hurling 11s at the University’s Lacrosse Stadium. The game will form a key part of Notre Dame’s game-day itinerary and provide a unique opportunity to showcase our greatest hurlers to a new and influential audience.

Aer Lingus cabin crew member Laura McCabe, with Leon Tully, left, as Maverick from Top Gun and young aviator, right, Robert Kennedy.

Aer Lingus cabin crew Leanne Donnelly with Inter-County hurlers Jackie Tyrrell, Kilkenny, left, and Lee Chin, Wexford, right, in Croke Park at the launch of The Celtic Champions Classic.

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Movies

FLIGHTS TO THE UNITED STATES MONStErS UNIVErSItY

Animation / Kids / Comedy (G) 95 minutes Adding another string to the bow of animation giants Pixar, Monsters University is the greatly anticipated prequel to the 2001 box office smash, Monsters Inc. Mike Wazowski and James P. Sullivan are an inseparable pair, but this wasn’t always the case. From the moment these two mismatched monsters met they couldn’t stand each other. Monsters University unlocks the door to how Mike and Sulley overcame their differences and became the best of friends. Already a classic with kids, like its predecessor, the movie explodes with effervescent colour, character and fantasy. Helen Mirren adds a devilish charm to the star-studded cast with the introduction of the menacing Dean Hardscrabble. VOIcES Of Billy Crystal, Steve Buscemi, John Goodman, Helen Mirren, Peter Sohn, Joel Murray DIrEctOr Dan Scanlon

ALAN PartrIDGE: aLPHa PaPa Comedy (R) StarS Steve Coogan, Colm Meaney, Sean Pertwee

THE HEAT Comedy (R)

ARTHUR NEWMAN Comedy (R)

Drama (R)

StarS Emily Blunt, Colin Firth, Anne Heche

StarS Dennis Quaid, Zac Efron, Heather Graham, Kim Dickens

JAVA HEAT

THE ICEMAN

StarS Kellan Lutz, Mickey Rourke, Ario Bayu, Atiqah Hasiholan

StarS Michael Shannon, Winona Ryder, Chris Evans, James Franco

Action (R)

StarS Sandra Bullock, Melissa McCarthy, Michael McDonald

AT ANY PRICE

Thriller (R)

PASSION

SYRUP

ANASTASIA

Drama (R)

Comedy (R)

Animation (G)

StarS Rachel McAdams, Noomi Rapace, Karoline Herfurth

StarS Shiloh Fernandez, Amber Heard, Kellan Lutz, Brittany Snow

VOIcES Of Meg Ryan, John Cusack, Kelsey Grammer

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october/november 2013

BEHIND tHE CANDELABRA Drama (R) StarS Micheal Douglas, Matt Damon, Scott Bakula, Eric Zuckerman

THE KINGS OF SUMMER Comedy (R)

StarS Nick Robinson, Gabriel Basso, Moises Arias

GARFIELD 2: A TAIL OF TWO KITTIES Family (G)

VOIcES Of Breckin Meyer, Jennifer Love Hewitt, Billy Connolly

THE EAST Thriller (PG13) StarS Brit Marling, Alexander Skarsgård, Ellen Page

LE CAPITAL Drama (R)

StarS Gabriel Bryne, Gad Elmaleh

RETURN TO NIM’S ISLAND Family (PG) StarS Matthew Lillard, Bindi Irwin, Toby Wallace, John Waters

THE GREAT GATSBY Drama (PG13) StarS Tobey Maguire, Leonardo DiCaprio, Carey Mulligan, Joel Edgerton

LES GAMINS (THE BRATS) Comedy (G)

StarS Alain Chabat, Max Boublil, Sandrine Kiberlain

To mark the Gathering Ireland 2013 – Aer Lingus presents six Irish Short Films that have achieved global recognition – Irish Folk Furniture, Fluffy Mc Cloud, Fear of Flying, A Different Perspective, Homemade and Two Hearts.


Movies

Flights From the UNiteD stAtes THE WAY WAY BACK

Drama / Comedy (PG 13) 103 minutes From the Oscar winning writers of The Descendants comes the feel good movie of the summer. The Way, Way Back is the funny and poignant coming-ofage story of 14-year-old Duncan, and his summer vacation with his mother, Pam, her overbearing boyfriend, Trent, and his daughter, Steph. The introverted Duncan finds an unexpected friend in gregarious Owen, manager of the Water Wizz water park and finds his place in the world — all over the course of a summer that he will never forget. With an all star cast including Steve Carrell and Sam Rockwell, the movie is a heartfelt blend of comedy and drama. STArS Allison Janney, Amanda Peet, AnnaSophia Robb, Liam James, Maya Rudolph, Sam Rockwell, Steve Carell, Toni Collette DirECTor Jim Rash

BAChelorette

DeAliN’ With iDiots

Des geNs QUi s’emBrAsseNt

Comedy (PG)

Comedy (PG)

STArS Jeff Garlin, Fred Willard, J.B. Smoove, Gina Gershon

STArS Monica Bellucci, Eric Elmosnino, Lou de Laâge, Kad Merad

the hANgoVer PArt iii

the loNe rANger

mADemoiselle C

Comedy (R)

Action (PG-13)

Documentary (G)

STArS Jeffrey Tambor, Zach Galifianakis, Ken Jeong, Ed Helms, Bradley Cooper

STArS Johnny Depp, Armie Hammer, Helena Bonham Carter

FEATUriNG Carine Roitfled, Tom Ford, Karl Lagerfeld, Donatella Versace

Comedy (R) STArS Kirsten Dunst, Isla Fisher, Lizzy Caplan

UN PriNCe PresQUe ChArmANt Comedy (G)

STArS Vincent Perez, Vahina Giocante, Jacques Weber

erAseD

goDDess

Action (R)

Comedy (PG)

STArS Aaron Eckhart, Liana Liberato, Olga Kurylenko

STArS Laura Michelle Kelly, Ronan Keating

PeePles

the PUrge

Comedy (PG 13)

Thriller (R)

STArS Craig Robinson, Kerry Washington, David Alan Grier

STArS Ethan Hawke, Lena Headey, Rhys Wakefield, Max Burkholder

hArrY Potter AND the PrisoNer oF AZKABAN

mr. mAgoriUm’s WoNDer emPoriUm

PerCY JACKsoN & the lightNiNg thieF

STArS Daniel Radcliffe, Rupert Grint, Emma Watson

STArS Ted Ludzik, Natalie Portman, Dustin Hoffman

VoiCES oF Logan Lerman, Brandon T. Jackson

Adventure (PG)

Family (G)

Animation (PG)

tAD, the lost eXPlorer Family (PG) VoiCES oF Kerry Shale, Fiona Glascott, Adam James

gooD ViBrAtioNs Drama (R) STArS Lisa Barros D’Sa, Glenn Leyburn

siBeriAN eDUCAtioN Drama (PG ) STArS Eleanor Tomlinson, John Malkovich, Peter Stormare

To mark The Gathering ireland 2013 – Aer Lingus presents six Irish Short Films that have achieved global recognition – Irish Folk Furniture, Fluffy Mc Cloud, Fear of Flying, A Different Perspective, Homemade and Two Hearts.

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Television

On demand

On Demand TV allows you to select and view your favourite TV shows. Don’t miss the most anticipated new shows on TV in this extensive choice of award-winning Comedy, Drama, Documentary, Lifestyle and Kids programmes.

DOCUMENTARY HIGHLIGHTS

Ceol ar an Imeall

LIFESTYLE HIGHLIGHTS

Lifestyle highlights include Storage Wars, Jamie’s 15 Minute Meals, Gok’s Style Secrets, Grand Designs, Riding Route 66 and HSBC Golfing World. To mark The Gathering 2013, Aer Lingus presents four fascinating episodes of The Genealogy Roadshow. Part historical detective story, part emotional journey, a team of experts take genealogy to the heart of a country and offers ordinary people the unique opportunity to find their place

HSBC Golfing World

in history. Also featured is Blood of The Irish, the programme that investigates the heritage of the Irish population. Music, Arts, Nature and Culture lovers won’t want to miss Other Voices, Living the Wildlife, Video Killed the Radio Star, Work of Art: The Next Great Artist or TG4’s alternative music show, Ceol ar an Imeall. Imeall, also from TG4, features Tristan Rosenstock as he travels around Ireland to meet some of the Island’s leading artists.

Documentary highlights include America: The Story of Us, Mankind: The Story of All of Us and Engineering Connections. For Nature enthusiasts, Great Migrations, David Attenborough’s First Life, Fish Frenzy and Wild Alaska are unmissable. Biographical documentaries include JFK: The Lost Bullet, Biography: Leonardo DiCaprio and End it like Beckham, which tells the story of David Beckham’s career and retirement. Also on board is the film-festival featured and critically acclaimed real-life Billy Elliot story, Only When I Dance.

End it like Beckham

KIDS HIGHLIGHTS

I’m a Monster

Kids can enjoy Disney favourites such as Doc McStuffins and Mickey Mouse Clubhouse. Also on board are compilations of I’m a Monster and Pondemonium, selected exclusively from Monster Entertainment. Kids and teenagers alike will love Good Luck Charlie and Dog with a Blog.

The Big Bang Theory

COMEDY HIGHLIGHTS The Glades

DRAMA HIGHLIGHTS

We witness a golden age in TV drama. Aer Lingus offers an engaging choice of the hottest shows from both sides of the Atlantic, with multiple episodes available. There are also one-off episodes to choose from in The Glades, Fringe, The Carrie Diaries and Glee. Three episodes of the brand new BBC Drama, Ripper Street are available; a compelling crime drama with a stellar cast. Set in Victorian London, this drama is fused with rich

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episodic storylines that meld with the intrigue of a criminal underworld as it follows the battle of the men whose job it is to bring the law to the lawless. According to The Guardian, Ripper Street is “beautifully performed, and beautiful to look at – stylish, and stylised”. Two episodes of the multiaward winning and all-time favourite The Sopranos are also now available. More favourites include the critically acclaimed Game of Thrones and period drama Call the Midwife.

october/november 2013

Don’t miss two brand new episodes of the HBO, Emmy Award winning and Golden Globe nominated TV series, Veep. Based on other political satires, such as BBC’s The Thick of It, Veep follows the career of fictitious former senator, Selina Meyer (played by Julia Louis-Dreyfus), as she is promoted to Vice President of the United States. She soon realises the position is nothing like she imagined and everything that she was warned about. Join her as she and her team attempt to leave a legacy behind them without getting tripped up in the day-to-day political games that define Washington. More comedy highlights from HBO

Friends include Enlightened and Eastbound and Down. Other brand new comedy includes Louie, Family Guy, The Big Bang Theory, The New Normal and Girls. If your taste is inclined toward the classics, let Aer Lingus take you on a comedic trip back in time and enjoy highlights from Arrested Development, Modern Family, Friends and The I.T. Crowd.


INFLIGHT

Radio

ON DEMAND Talk Radio

Rock

Classical

NOVA Irish Classic Rock

The Blue of the Night

Easy Listening

Fitzpatrick Hotels

Tubridy on 2fm

This is a contemporary easy-listening collection of songs from both sides of the Atlantic, brought to you compliments of The Fitzpatrick Hotel Group USA. With two hotels in downtown Manhattan, Grand Central and Fitzpatrick Manhattan, Fitzpatrick’s is the place to stay in NYC. Visit their website for more information, fitzpatrickhotels.com. Fitzpatrick Hotels USA are also on Twitter & Facebook.

Ryan Tubridy’s unique showmanship and wit is broadcast to the nation every weekday morning. Spontaneous, unpredictable, entertaining and intelligent, Tubridy takes in everything from the day’s news to huge competitions, from big interviews to human-interest stories. Ryan Tubridy is one of Ireland’s most prolific broadcasters and his RTÉ 2fm show raises the bar for morning radio. For more follow Ryan on Twitter @Tubridy2FM.

Pop

Poetry

Talk Radio

Traditional Irish

Chart Hits

Irish Poetry Corner

Best of Moncrieff

Ceol na nGael

Chart Hits lifts the lid on the most up-to-the-minute Pop hits from both sides of the Atlantic. Listen out for your favourite artists in this compilation of smash hits. This exciting set of songs features hits from the world’s most successful artists including, Justin Timberlake, Nicole Scherzinger and One Direction. Also listen out for brand new songs from industry stalwarts Depeche Mode and David Bowie.

Poetry has been a passion in Ireland for a couple of thousand years. Brian Munn selects and reads verses from renowned Irish poets – W.B. Yeats, Oliver Goldsmith, Percy French, Oscar Wilde and others of note. This unique selection is at times comic, romantic and always nostalgic. Enjoy this ensemble of Irish poetry produced especially for Aer Lingus to celebrate this remarkable Irish tradition.

Best of Moncrieff is a lively mix of funny, engaging and irreverent features. Its insightful format gives listeners a unique listening experience. Tune into Best of Moncrieff every weekday from 1.30-4.30pm on Newstalk 106-108fm for a lively mix of phone-ins, text messages and stories from around the world and down your street. Text 53106, email afternoon@ newstalk.ie or follow Sean on Twitter @SeanMoncrieff.

Ceol na nGael is a traditional music programme presented, in Irish, by Seán Ó hÉanaigh. Seán presents Sruth na Maoile on RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta. The station is the national Irish language broadcaster in Ireland, and is celebrating 40 years on air. Ceol traidisiúnta agus ceol tíre den scoth, le Seán Ó hÉanaigh. For more, visit rte.ie/rnag. Twitter @RTERnaG

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Marty Miller plays songs with guitars in them, daily on Radio NOVA. From Aerosmith to ZZ Top and whatever crops up in-between! Especially for your travel today, relax and pass an hour with some great Irish rock songs and bands and enjoy your flight. For more, follow Marty on Twitter @MartyMtweets.

Each night on RTÉ lyric fm, The Blue Of The Night broadcasts a blend of singer-songwriter, jazz, roots, folk, world, ambient and classical music. In this bespoke edition made for Aer Lingus, host Eamonn Lenihan presents symphonic Debussy; Clint Eastwood’s son Kyle; a new choral work by Kevin Puts; Radiohead, interpreted by a classical pianist; and the debut recording by young Irish singer Aoife Doyle. Learn more about the show at rte.ie/lyricfm.


Opera

Irish

Documentary

Documentary

Tales from the Opera

Homecoming

Documentary On One

Top Ten

Join Liz Nolan and Tales from the Opera for the chronicles of passionate and spectacular art on Sundays at 7pm on 96-99 RTÉ lyric fm. For this flight, Tales from the Opera invites you to the world of Candide – hero of a Voltaire satire, and Bernstein’s fizzing operetta of love, loss, betrayal, cynicism, disaster, redemption ... plus a few other plot twists.

Homecoming is a nostalgic mix of famous Irish songs selected especially for The Gathering 2013. Whether you live in Ireland, are coming home to visit relatives and friends or discover your Irish roots – these Irish classics are sure to conjure up memories of days gone by. This show represents the cream of Irish talent from U2, The Pogues, The Cranberry’s, Horslips, The Dubliners, The Saw Doctors to Rory Gallagher and many more. Enjoy Coming Home with Homecoming.

Documentary On One is the multi award winning radio documentary strand from RTÉ Radio 1 (88-90FM) and is currently the most successful documentary unit in the world – winning over 70 awards since 2009. The website rte.ie/doconone contains over 1,000 radio documentaries all freely available to listen/podcast. You can also download the all new and free Documentary On One for iPhone and/ or Android app. The documentaries featured are “Kerry and The Tramp”, “Fire and Water” and “Kenmare Street”.rte.ie/doconone

Weekday mornings you’ll find Ray Foley & JP Gilbourne on 98FM! Join the boys for the funniest way to wake up in Dublin. There’ll be plenty of #bants as they cover the big issues and the, er, not-so-big, along with special guests & great prizes! For more, visit: 98fm.com or follow Ray on Twitter @RayFoleyShow.

Kids

Alternative

Jazz

Folk, Roots

RTÉ Jr

Phantom

Jazz Alley

Roots Freeway

Join Audrey and Ogie in The Cosy Corner to enter a world of sleepy and comforting music that’s sure to help little ones drift to the Land of Nod. The Cosy Corner has plenty of sleepy-time stories and meditations from all over the world; including soothing Irish lullabies. All of the lullabies are chosen especially for sleepyheads flying all over the world. So get your pillow and your blanket and get comfortable in The Cosy Corner … it’s going to be a relaxing flight. rte.ie/rtejr/listen

Phantom 105.2 is the home of very best music on Irish radio. Phantom is committed to playing new music, Indie rock and alternative music for Dublin. Claire Beck brings you through a selection of what you will hear on Dublin’s alternative Radio Station! Claire presents Phantom Drive, daily from 3pm on Phantom 105.2. Turn it on and try something different! Phantom 105.2 – phantom.ie!

Take a walk down Jazz Alley with Donald Helme, featuring the best in classic and contemporary jazz. Focusing on the curious, quirky, obscure, and neglected Jazz Alley broadcasts on Ireland’s dedicated classical music station, RTÉ lyric fm, each Wednesday evening at 7pm. Donald Helme’s lifelong enthusiasm for jazz began in the 1950s with Count Basie, and blossomed from there to include almost all aspects of this absorbing and important music.

Niall Toner presents Roots Freeway on RTÉ Radio 1, Ireland’s mostlistened-to radio station; Saturday nights at 11pm. Roots Freeway is an eclectic mix of folk, bluegrass, blues and roots music. Toner is, first and foremost, a music fan, but he is also a songwriter and a musician in his own right, playing guitar and mandolin with his own band, The Niall Toner Band.

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Wellbeing Aer Lingus is pleased to bring you some suggestions and light exercises to enhance your comfort and wellbeing during your flight: Wear loose-fitting clothes on board, to allow your skin to breathe. Stretch your legs by taking a stroll through the cabin. Circle your ankles clockwise and anti-clockwise. Trace the letters of the alphabet with your foot by moving your ankles.

Exercising your feet and legs periodically helps to reduce possible effects of long-duration travel. Avoid sitting or sleeping in the same position for too long and gently stretch muscles to improve your circulation. Move your neck and shoulders during long flights to prevent stiffness.

Reducing the effects of Jet Lag: Avoid heavy food, alcohol, tea or coffee the day before you travel. When you arrive at your destination, try to adjust your activities to the new time zone. Mild exercise on arrival will help to stimulate your circulation.

We wish you an enjoyable experience.

Travel Tips It is important to take time to reduce your risk of getting sick. Various viruses are thought to spread mainly from person to person through coughing, sneezing, or close contact with the flu. Here are some everyday preventative actions you can take to help slow the spread of germs that cause respiratory illness, like flu: Cover your nose and mouth when you cough and sneeze. This will help to prevent the spread of droplets that contain germs. Wash your hands often with soap and water. If soap and water are not available use an alcohol–based hand rub. Avoid touching your eyes, nose and mouth, this can cause the spread of germs. An important step is to get a flu vaccination, especially for elderly people, people with certain chronic health conditions, and pregnant women.

Carry-on baggage Carry-on baggage on Aer Lingus services is restricted to one piece per person, as well as to the weights and measurements, illustrated below.

Passengers with wheelchair requirements Our priority is to always ensure the safety and comfort of all passengers. We encourage passengers who may need assistance to contact us well in advance of their date of travel to enable us to assess their needs. If you are a wheelchair user or require wheelchair assistance when travelling on Aer Lingus services, please advise us of your requirements at least 48 hours in advance, quoting your booking reference number. Our contact details are as follows: email: specialassistance@aerlingus.com Telephone: (Ireland) 0818 365 011 09:00 - 17:00 Mon-Fri 10:00 - 16:00 Sat & Sun 10:00 - 16:00 Bank Holidays (UK) 0871 718 20 21 (Europe) + 353 1 886 8333 (USA) 516 622 4222

AER LINGUS

AER LINGUS REGIONAL

Maximum weight

48cm (19ins)

10kg 55cm (22ins)

(22 lbs)

24cm (9ins)

Maximum weight

7kg (15 lbs)

40cm (16ins)

20cm (8ins)

33cm (13ins)

In addition you may choose to carry on one of the following, which must be placed under the seat in front: Small ladies handbag/gents satchel = 25cm (10”) x 33cm (13”) x 20cm (8”) OR Duty Free shopping bag as well as: Baby-changing/food bag Medical/assistive devices EU security rules regarding liquids, gels and aerosols in cabin baggage apply. Flights departing the USA are subject to TSA security rules. Passengers in Row 1, or at an emergency exit, MUST store baggage in an overhead bin.

Safety brief We would like to bring your attention to the following safety and security measures: Please pay attention to any instructions given to you by the cabin crew. Any behaviour towards a fellow passenger or cabin crew that is deemed to be threatening or abusive (including the use of offensive language) is a serious matter. As our priority is the safety of all passengers, it is important not to interrupt the cabin crew while they carry out their duties, and not to interfere with aircraft equipment.

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OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2013

As a service to passengers, alcohol is served in the airport lounges and on board. In the interests of safety, Aer Lingus may refuse to allow you board if it is thought too much alcohol has been consumed. While the majority of passengers are responsible, there have occasionally been incidents where intoxicated passengers have caused serious safety hazards. Passengers are reminded also that during the flight you may not consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or any other passenger.

The consumption inflight of Duty Free alcohol purchased from the Sky Shopping service is also prohibited. This measure is, again, necessary in the interests of flight safety. If incidents of this kind occur during a flight, the cabin crew is obliged to contact police on arrival at your final destination. The Aircraft Captain may also divert the flight enroute in order to remove disruptive passengers. Should this happen, Aer Lingus will not be responsible for getting you

home, your ticket money will not be refunded, and – in addition to the authorities awaiting you on landing – you could be heavily fined and/or be liable to a prison sentence. In many cases, other airlines may subsequently refuse to allow you to fly with them. We emphasise that while on board the aircraft our priority is your safety. As always, we wish you a safe and enjoyable flight, as well as a safe onward journey.


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INFLIGHT

Route maps

EUROPEAN ROUTE NETWORK Helsinki Stockholm

Aberdeen Glasgow

Kerry

Edinburgh

Copenhagen

Newcastle Isle of Man Blackpool DUBLIN Manchester London Birmingham HEATHRoW Cardiff

Hamburg

London SouTHEND Bristol Bournemouth London GATWICK Brussels Jersey

Paris

Rennes

Berlin

Amsterdam

Warsaw

Dusseldorf Frankfurt

Stuttgart

Prague

Munich

Vienna

Zurich Geneva Lyon

Bordeaux Bilbao

Santiago de Compostela

Toulouse Perpignan Madrid

Faro

LINATE

Milan

Marseille MALPENSA Nice

Budapest

Venice Verona Bologna Dubrovnik

Bourgas

Rome

Barcelona

Ibiza

Lisbon

Milan

Naples

Palma

Corfu Izmir

Alicante

Catania

Malaga

Athens

Agadir Lanzarote Tenerife

Fuerteventura Gran Canaria

To & From Dublin Austria Vienna

Czech Republic Prague

Belgium Brussels

Denmark Copenhagen

Bulgaria Bourgas

Finland Helsinki

Canary Islands Fuerteventura Gran Canaria Lanzarote Tenerife

France Bordeaux Lyon Marseille Nice Paris Perpignan Toulouse ■ Rennes

Croatia Dubrovnik

Germany Berlin Dusseldorf Frankfurt Hamburg Munich Stuttgart Greece Athens Corfu Hungary Budapest Ireland ■ Kerry

Italy Bologna Catania Milan (Linate) Milan (Malpensa) Naples Rome Venice Verona The Netherlands Amsterdam Morocco Agadir Poland Warsaw

Portugal Faro Lisbon

Switzerland Geneva Zurich

Spain Alicante Barcelona Bilbao Ibiza Madrid Malaga Palma Santiago de Compostela

Turkey Izmir

Sweden Stockholm

United Kingdom Birmingham London (Gatwick) London (Heathrow) Jersey Manchester

■ United Kingdom Aberdeen Birmingham Blackpool Bournemouth Bristol Cardiff Edinburgh Glasgow Isle of Man London Southend Manchester Newcastle (new route commencing on 24 October)

■ Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann For more information on schedules, please visit www.aerlingus.com

october/november 2013

| 125


INFLIGHT

EUROPEAN ROUTE NETWORK

Edinburgh

Glasgow

Knock

BELFAST Manchester

Dublin

Birmingham

SHANNON Bristol London Heathrow

CORK

Amsterdam

LONdON GATWICK

Brussels

Jersey

Paris

Rennes

Munich

Geneva

Nice

Barcelona Palma Lisbon Faro

Alicante Malaga

Lanzarote

Tenerife

Las Palmas

To & From Belfast, Cork, Shannon & Gatwick FROM BELFAST Flights operate from George Best Belfast City Airport

Portugal Faro Spain Malaga Palma United Kingdom London Heathrow London Gatwick

FROM CORK Belgium Brussels Canary Islands Lanzarote Tenerife Las Palmas France Nice Paris ■ Rennes Germany Munich

FROM GATWICK Portugal Faro Lisbon Spain Alicante Barcelona Malaga Palma Switzerland Geneva The Netherlands Amsterdam

United Kingdom London Heathrow ■ United Kingdom Birmingham Bristol Edinburgh Glasgow Jersey Manchester

Ireland Belfast Dublin Ireland West Airport (Knock)

FROM SHANNON United Kingdom London Heathrow ■ United Kingdom Birmingham Edinburgh Manchester

FROM KNOCK ■ United Kingdom Birmingham London Gatwick

Portugal Faro Canary Islands Lanzarote (new route

commencing 26 October)

■ Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann

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october/november 2013


USA ROUTE NETWORK

Toronto Chicago

Boston New York

San Francisco Shannon

Dublin

Orlando

To & From Dublin & Shannon FROM DUBLIN

FROM SHANNON

USA Boston Chicago New York Orlando San Francisco

USA Boston New York

Canada Toronto

(Via New York/Boston with JetBlue)

Chicago Orlando

HAer Lingus is flying direct from Dublin to Toronto and San Francisco from April 2014. Aer Lingus flights are available for sale on aerlingus.com

october/november 2013

| 127


inFLight

CONNECTING EUROPE, USA & CANADA Edmonton

Calgary Winnipeg Vancouver Seattle Portland OR

Minneapolis Milwaukee

san FranCisCo San Jose

Oakland

Burbank Long Beach Orange County

toronto

Detroit

Burlington Syracuse Rochester

Buffalo

Portland ME

Boston Pittsburgh Nantucket Philadelphia neW York Des Moines Salt Lake City Indianapolis Columbus Baltimore Cincinnati Washington Greensboro Wichita Saint Louis Denver DuLLES Washington NATIONAL Louisville Lexington Richmond Nashville Tulsa Raleigh - Durham Las Vegas Oklahoma City Charlotte Knoxville Memphis ChiCago

Omaha

Sacramento

Grand Rapids

Los Angeles Santa Ana San Diego

Phoenix

Cleveland Dayton

Dallas (Fort Worth)

Atlanta Charleston

Austin

Houston

New Orleans

San Antonio

Jacksonville Orlando

Tampa Fort Myers

West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale Miami

Aguadilla

San Juan Ponce

FLY BETWEEN THE FOLLOWING CITIES VIA DUBLIN, SHANNON, NEW YORK, BOSTON & CHICAGO new destinations with aer Lingus, in partnership with JetBlue, United airlines and aer arann Getting to the uS from destinations throughout Europe has never been easier. uS, Irish and European based customers can book a single low fare reservation between Ireland, Europe and a wide range of continental uS destinations using JFK New York, Boston and Chicago as stopovers. By choosing to fly to the united States via Dublin and Shannon with Aer Lingus, passengers can avail of united States Customs and Immigration Pre-clearance facilities at

Terminal 2, Dublin airport. This facility allows passengers travelling on the majority of uS bound flights to clear uS immigration and customs before departing Dublin and Shannon. Customers arrive in the uS without any further processing requirement allowing for a seamless transfer to their final destination. ■ neW York Connecting with JetBlue at JFk: Passengers travelling from the uS to Ireland and Europe will be able to check in bags at the JetBlue domestic departure point and then pick them up again in Shannon or Dublin. From april 3 2013, aer

Lingus flight operations will move from terminal 4 at John F. kennedy international airport into JetBlue’s acclaimed terminal 5, at JFk. ■ Boston Connecting with JetBlue at Boston Logan international airport: When you arrive from Dublin or Shannon, proceed directly to Terminal C for your JetBlue domestic departure. Passengers travelling from the uS to Ireland and Europe will be able to check in bags at the JetBlue departure point and then pick them up again in Shannon or Dublin.

■ ChiCago Connecting with United airlines at o’hare Chicago international airport: On arrival at Terminal Five from Dublin or Shannon, make your way to the nearby ATS (Airport Transit System), which runs every four minutes to your uA domestic departure point. Passengers from the uS to Ireland and Europe can check in bags at the uA departure point, then exit security in Chicago O’Hare to take the Airport Transit System to Terminal Five for the onward Aer Lingus flight, and pick up their bags in Shannon or Dublin.

■ DUBLin Connecting with aer Lingus regional (operated by Aer Arann) at Dublin airport: Aer Lingus’s interline agreement with Aer Arann allows passengers to connect to Aer Lingus transatlantic flights via Dublin Airport, where they can through check their luggage directly to their final uS destination.

All routes correct at time of going to press

128 |

october/november 2013


aberdeen edinburgh

Glasgow

newcastle Isle of Man Hamburg

Manchester

Dublin Birmingham

Shannon kerry

london

london souTHend london

cardiff Bristol

Berlin

amsterdam

HeaTHrow

GaTwIck

warsaw

dusseldorf Brussels Frankfurt

paris Munich

Vienna

Geneva Milan

Malpensa

Milan

rome

Barcelona

Madrid

Venice

lInaTe

palma alicante Faro

Malaga

■ Via Dublin with aer lingus

■ Via Dublin with aer lingus Regional

■ Via new YoRk with Jetblue

                         

        

                          

alicante amsterdam Barcelona Berlin Birmingham Brussels dusseldorf edinburgh Faro Frankfurt Geneva Hamburg london (Gatwick) london (Heathrow) Madrid Malaga Manchester Milan linate Milan Malpensa Munich palma paris rome Venice Vienna warsaw

aberdeen Bristol cardiff edinburgh Glasgow Isle of Man london southend newcastle kerry

■ Via Shannon with aer lingus  london (Heathrow) ■ Via Shannon with aer lingus Regional    

Manchester Birmingham Bristol edinburgh

aguadilla austin Baltimore Boston Buffalo Burbank Burlington charlotte chicago denver Fort lauderdale Fort Myers Houston Jacksonville las Vegas long Beach los angeles nantucket new orleans oakland orlando phoenix ponce portland Me portland or raleigh-durham rochester

         

sacramento salt lake city san diego san Francisco san Jose san Juan seattle syracuse Tampa west palm Beach

■ Via boSton with Jetblue                

Baltimore Buffalo charleston charlotte chicago dallas Fort worth denver Ford lauderdale Fort Myers Jacksonville las Vegas long Beach los angeles nantucket new orleans oakland

               

orlando philadelphia phoenix pittsburg portland or raleigh-durham richmond salt lake city san diego san Francisco san Jose san Juan seattle Tampa washington (dulles) washington (national)  west palm Beach

■ Via ChiCago with united to uSa        

atlanta austin charlotte charleston cincinnati chicago cleveland columbus

                             

dallas (Fort worth) dayton denver des Moines detroit Fort Myers Grand rapids Greensboro Houston Indianapolis Jacksonville kansas city knoxville las Vegas lexington los angeles louisville Memphis Miami Milwaukee Minneapolis nashville new orleans oklahoma city omaha orange county phoenix pittsburgh portland or raleigh-durham

            

rochester sacramento salt lake city san antonio san diego san Francisco san Jose santa ana seattle st louis Tampa Tulsa wichita

■ Via ChiCago with united to Canada      

calgary edmonton salt lake city Toronto Vancouver winnipeg

■ Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann october/november 2013

| 129


INFLIGHT

Middle east and australasia route network

Dublin

Bahrain Abu Dhabi

Muscat

Kuala Lumpur Singapore

FROM DUBLIN

VIa aBU DHaBI TO:

Abu Dhabi

Muscat Kuala Lumpur Singapore Bahrain Sydney Melbourne

Flights are operated by our codeshare partner, Etihad Airways.

130 |

october/november 2013

Sydney Melbourne


HERE’S SOMETHING TO SLEEP ON. Check-in your bags the night before you travel.

Now with Evening Before Check-In from Aer Lingus, you can check in your baggage the day before you travel. If you are flying between 6 and 8am from Dublin, simply check in your luggage at the airport between 4 and 8pm the evening before you fly. Then, relax and get a good night’s sleep, knowing you have a stress-free travel day ahead. To find out more, visit aerlingus.com.

Evening Before Check-In

Great Care. Great Fare.


InFlIGHt

Flight Connections

CONNECTING TO ANOTHER AER LINGUS FLIGHT AT DUBLIN AIRPORT FLIGHTS ARRIvING AT TERmINAL 2 FLIGhT ConnECTIonS Connecting flight departs Gates 401 - 426 Arrivals Route to Baggage Reclaim from Gates 400s

FLIGhT ConnECTIonS Connecting flight departs Gates 100s - 300s

To Gates 100s 300s

Immigration

Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk

Immigration

Security Check

Lifts to Gates 401 - 426 Escalator to Gates 401 - 426

Terminal 2 Arrivals

If you already have a boarding card for your connecting flight, and your baggage has been tagged to your final destination, simply follow the sign for Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk, which you will see on your left hand side as you enter the Immigration Hall. By following this sign, you will proceed to Immigration and Security Check. After clearing these points, check the information screens and proceed to your boarding gate.

If your baggage has not been tagged to your final destination you must clear Immigration, enter the baggage reclaim area, collect your bag, exit through the Customs hall and proceed to Aer Lingus check-in on the departures level. Once you have reached the departures level, check the information screens for your onward flight information, and proceed as directed to the appropriate check-in desk.

If you have any queries, or need further assistance, please go to the Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk, which is located in the baggage reclaim area in Terminal 2, where our staff will be glad to help.

Please note: eU regulations concerning the carriage of liquids apply to your connecting flights at Dublin airport

Connecting at Heathrow Airport Transferring to an international flight at Heathrow? Please disembark from the rear of the aircraft where a dedicated coach will take you to the Heathrow Flight Connections area and reduce your journey time by an average of 20 minutes. Please disembark From THe BACK oF THe airCraFT iF:

Please disembark From THe FRONT oF THe airCraFT iF:

 You are an international connecting passenger and all your luggage* is checked through to your final destination

    

*Pushchairs checked to London can be collected from the back of the aircraft

132 |

october/november 2013

london is your final destination Your onward connection is to a domestic Uk airport Your luggage needs to be collected from Heathrow You would like to leave the airport between flights You or someone you are travelling with needs special assistance


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BLANCHARDSTOWN CENTRE Dublin 15. Tel: 01 822 5990 ST STEPHENS GREEN Dublin 2. Tel: 01 478 1233 TEMPLE BAR Fleet St, Dublin 2. Tel: 01 672 8975 DUNDRUM TOWN CENTRE Tel: 01 298 7299 SWORDS Airside, Swords, Co Dublin Tel: 01 840 8525 BELFAST Level 2, Victoria Square, Tel: 028 9024 9050 www.fridays.ie

͘ŞǺͰΫ ˔ϓͰǺϓ˔ Ǻ٫̭Ǻ͡ʍǺˠƚǺ ʍˠ ǖϓŞʳʍˠ͙ ̛Ɇ ͰΫ̾ ͰΫǺ̭ɻǺˠͰ ɞ͡ǺǺˠ

ņɶ ‘ϝ̈ϭ˸ Ń̈͐ɶϭ

ª̬Ǹ˞ Ά Ǖij‫̾˰ ͯ٭‬μ‫ڈ‬ij˒ʄɆ̬˒ǎ ʲijΪǸ ˻̬Ǹ˞ʊ˞ɝ êϒͯ͟Ǖij‫ ͯ٭‬Ȑ̬˒ UϒʊǕǸǕ Ϊ˻ϒͯ͟ ǸٞǸ͟‫ ٭‬ɺ˻ϒ͟ ɓѐ̰Шϭ oЉɌ ͹̰͜‫ ܛ‬oˎμʿܱ ̈ʫ ‫ܛ‬͹ѐ ͐ɶ͜Ш̈͹͜ Ш˸̈ϭ Ʊɓ ḭ́͜‫ ܛ‬Ι ͐̈͜ѐШɶ ܎Ʊ̰̩ ʫϝ͹͐ vϝƱʻ͹͜ įШ

1916

The GPO Dublin tm

Visit Letters, Livees and Liberty in Dublin’s GPO and uncover the story of the Rising and the Irish Post Office in the place where history was made. General Post Offffice O’Connell Street Dublin 1

Michelin Bib Gourmand

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with over 135 cafes around the world, there’s always something happening at the hard rock. 12 Fleet Street • Temple Bar • Dublin 2 • Tel: 671 7777 • hardrock.com


INFLIGHT

Flight Connections at New York JohN F keNNedY airport

departures

arrivals

From April 3 2013, Aer Lingus will operate from Terminal 5 at New York’s JFK Airport. While known as JetBlue’s T5, Aer Lingus will have its own dedicated area within the terminal, allowing for easy check in, baggage handling and seamless connections to destinations within the United States and Puerto Rico. With the move to T5, the minimum connection time from European arrivals to connecting JetBlue markets will be reduced to just 60 minutes. Customers traveling to Ireland will enjoy JetBlue connections as fast as 40 minutes.

134 |

The award-winning, stateof-the-art Terminal 5 offers great features and amenities, including:  Up to 15 security lanes  26 gates with seats aplenty  Free Wi- Fi  55,000 sq. feet of great food and shopping  Large children’s play area and much more!

october/november 2013


INFLIGHT

Sekonda Chronograph Men’s Dress Watch This watch has a classic design and the chromed metal case is complemented with a brown and cream dial. The one-second chronograph and 24-hour readout are highlighted with cream sub dials. The watch is finished with a brown padded leather strap and is waterresistant to 50 metres. Guaranteed for 2 years.

Celtic Circles Pendant & Earrings Set by Trinity & Co. This exquisite set radiates feminine beauty. The pendant’s gold-plated shamrocks are carefully placed in Celtic circles. The matching shamrock earrings have a clear crystal for extra sparkle. Wear your good luck wherever you go.

Sekonda Crystalla Women’s Watch with FREE matching pendant A stone set case with mother-of-pearl dial is enhanced with the crystal ball cord bracelet. This watch fits all wrists and is adjusted by pulling open the bracelet and then pulling the beaded strings to your desired size. A free matching pendant makes this set an ideal evening accessory or a perfect gift. Guaranteed for 2 years.

Sky Shopping

We ’ v e g o t i t all

Aer Lingus welcomes you to our extensive range of amazing quality items onboard during October/November.

Please check your Sky Shopping brochure for all prices philosophy all stars by philosophy

Daisy Sunshine

The best cosmetic is great looking skin. Our scientifically proven skin care is designed to give you the best skin of your life. In three simple steps you can achieve radiantly clear, beautifully bright, impeccably smooth skin. Always be your best.

Daisy Marc Jacobs has a sparkling floral bouquet. A fragrance that transports you to a place where positive meets playful, Daisy brings a smile to your face! Sunny, happy, free.

50ml EDT by Marc Jacobs

october/november 2013

| 135


Trip of a life Time | pariS2NiCe

Pedal power

Aer Lingus’s Willie McGonagle saddled up for the annual Paris2Nice race. ycling from Paris to Nice took six days, but finding the reason to do it took a lot longer! Rebecca, my daughter, was born with an intellectual disability and has been involved in the Special Olympics for a number of years. In 2009, she had the honour of representing Ireland with seven other alpine skiers at the World Winter Games in Boise, Idaho. It was a life-changing experience for both Rebecca and for us, as a family. A good friend from this trip, Denis O’Reilly, whose son Charlie is a Special Olympian skier, coorganised a small group to cycle 700 kilometres from Paris to Nice in 2011. I complained, “Why hadn’t you asked me?” “Don’t worry,” he said, “it’s been such a success, we are going to do it again in 2012, only bigger!” The task seemed daunting – finding time to train hard, and even harder, to raise a lot of money. However, with the help of family, friends and Aer Lingus work colleagues, Paris2Nice cyclists supported each other through many

C

136 |

october/november 2013

fundraising efforts, the combined group raising more than half a million euro for two fantastic charities – Special Olympics and Cerebral Palsy Sport Ireland. That first morning outside our Paris hotel, it was freezing, and the nervous energy palpable. We threaded our way out, eventually warming up, and arrived in Montargis’s magnificent countryside 130 kilometres later. Day one was over and we had all survived. Over the following days, there were punctures, broken bicycles, all kinds of adventures. But, remarkably, no matter what happened, the next morning everyone dragged mind, body and soul out of bed and back on to the road. Every morning when you looked at the group of 60-plus cyclists prepping their bikes and themselves for another day in the saddle, there was no sign of what they had gone through the day before; the new day was always faced with a laugh and goodwill. To give the impression that the cycling was torture would do a terrible injustice to the fantastic

French connection – the Paris2Nice fundraisers gearing up at the airport. Right, Willie McGonagle, in hi-vis yellow, and Karl Monaghan, at the Tom Simpson monument atop Mont Ventoux, the highest peak in Provence.

Do you have a Trip of a Lifetime story about an Aer Lingus destination? Please send it to tripofalifetime@ image.ie at not more than 600 words with a portrait shot of yourself. The editor’s decision is final.

roads, scenery, towns and food we experienced, as well as the people we met along the way. But to test our endurance we had the mighty Mont Ventoux to look forward to. Nicknamed “the Beast”, this 1,912-metre peak is the highest in Provence. For the stronger, braver or just plain foolhardy, it was a challenge. Our guides for the trip, Cycling Safaris (cyclingsafaris.com), were concerned that, as a group of largely inexperienced cyclists, we wouldn’t fully understand the enormity of such a feat. We asked ourselves: If we don’t die on the way up, overcome by heatstroke, exhaustion, dehydration, heart failure, altitude sickness or blown off the mountain by the local high winds, we would surely die on the way down. But the group adopted a steely determination and, as a result, we all made it up within three hours. It was an extraordinary experience to be part of a journey with a group of people who had leaped outside their comfort zone to do something that was not just for themselves. The courage, bravery and humanity I witnessed in those five days will give me inspiration for a long time to come. Paris2Nice 2013 runs from September 28 to October 3. For details of 2014’s event, visit paris2nice.com


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Cara October/November 2013