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cara magazine July 2013

July 2013

actor Domhnall Gleeson

Customer magazine of the year

Dublin las Vegas paris catalonia

Discover the best of Dublin city right now

copenhagen

Park life

Warsaw

Meet the people behind Ireland’s best-loved parks

new york

A fine vintage

Josh ritter

Finding rags and riches in Paris

Big city bling Honeymooning in Las Vegas

Mountain retreat

Discovering serenity and charm in Catalonia

domhnall gleeson The actor on fame and fortune

PlUs

irish parks

Cool Hunting

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AIB Corporate Banking Ireland is proud to support global investment in Ireland. As one of the most attractive countries for global Foreign Direct Investment, Ireland is home to many of the best-known and most successful companies from around the world. And at AIB, we provide corporate banking services to more of these global companies than any other bank in Ireland. Talk to us about how we can help you locate and grow your company’s presence in Ireland. Contact Details: Diarmuid O’Neill, Head of Corporate Banking Ireland Tel: +353 1 641 4808 Email: diarmuid.e.o’neill@aib.ie Web: www.aibcorporate-fdi.com

Mick Murray, Head of Foreign Direct Investment Tel: +353 1 641 4248 Email: mick.j.murray@aib.ie

AIB Corporate Banking Ireland

Making Business Happen

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Allied Irish Banks, p.l.c., trading as AIB Corporate Banking Ireland, is regulated by the Central Bank of Ireland. Registered Office: Bankcentre, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4, Ireland. Registered in Ireland, No. 24173


Contents

60

July 2013

Paris – a fine vintage

86

Going wild in Catalonia

30

In conversation with Domhnall Gleeson

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Regulars

Features

06 ARRIVALS Bidding a warm welcome to jet-setters in Dublin’s T2

104 48 HOuRS IN COPENHAGEN Pól Ó Conghaile’s top picks in a nutshell

09 CHECK IN July’s event, hotel, food and shopping highlights

107 AN INSIDER’S GuIDE tO NEW yORK Aoife Wasser hearts NY

30 tAKING tHE LEAD Domhnall Gleeson tells Tony Clayton-Lea about taking the (romantic) lead

20 WHAt’S IN My SuItCASE Makers & Brothers’ Jonathan Legge reveals his travel kit

111

22 SMARt tRAVELLER Deirdre Collins of Dee’s Wholefoods extols Stockholm’s virtues 24 SHELF LIFE Bridget Hourican on HIP Hotels and the latest travelogues 26 ON My tRAVELS Actress Olwen Fouéré’s globetrotting highlights 28 ROLL uP, ROLL uP Kids’ festivals by Lauren Murphy

AER LINGuS INFLIGHt The latest films, TV, music and flight information

136 tRIP OF A LIFEtIME There’s no place like home for Idaho troubadour Josh Ritter

107

36 tHE GREAt OutDOORS Ben Webb meets Ireland’s park keepers 48 CAPItAL COOL Michael McDermott & Ciaran Walsh on Dublin’s hipster hotspots 60 LE CHIC SEEKERS Amanda Cochrane goes vintage shopping in Paris 74 A SuRE BEt Las Vegas for honeymooners by Tony Clayton-Lea 86 CAtALONIA DREAMING Mal Rogers explores Spain’s north-east 98 5 REASONS tO VISIt WARSAW Poland’s capital checklist by Kit F Chung


Contributors EDITORIAL Editor Frances Power Acting Editor Eoin Higgins Deputy Editor Lucy White Editorial Assistant Méabh McDonnell Contributors Sive O’Brien, Amanda Cochrane, Liz Dwyer

Ailbhe O’Donnell lives and works in

Dublin. While studying graphic design, she developed a keen interest in photography and says she is intrigued by the small details of everyday living and tries to capture her images in a subtle way, finding beauty in the simplest forms. “I was excited by the opportunity of photographing vintage Paris for Cara [see page 60]. Paris is a photographer’s paradise and the vintage shop scene is wonderfully nostalgic. I will definitely return to browse through the vintage treasures of Paris again!”

Group Editorial Director Laura George ART Art Director Clare Meredith Designer Fiachra McCarthy ADVERTISING Commercial Director Clodagh Edwards +353 (0)1 271 9634, clodagh.edwards@image.ie Advertising Manager Noëlle O’Reilly +353 (0)1 271 9621, noelle.oreilly@image.ie Advertising Copy Contact Derek Skehan +353 (0)1 855 3855, dereks@typeform.ie

Ciaran Walsh (@kowalshki) and Michael McDermott (@miguelmyriad) are the editor and publisher, respectively, of LeCool Dublin (@lecooldublin), a designled culture guide to Ireland’s capital. As Michael relates, “We’ve tasked ourselves with chronicling the emergence of DIY culture, pop-ups and collectives in Dublin.” Ciaran adds: “We want to support the spirit of those who are staying put and making a go of it.” Read their illuminating feature on Dublin’s hippest on page 48.

Publisher Richard Power ADMINISTRATION Acting Head of PR & Promotions Roisin Finnegan, +353 (0)1 271 9643, roisin.finnegan@image.ie Publishing Assistant Lucy Watts Financial Controller Olga Gordeychuk Credit Controller Lisa Dickenson BOARD OF DIRECTORS Managing Director Richard Power, richard.power@image.ie Chairman Robert Power Directors Ann Reihill, Gina Traynor, Patrick Dillon-Malone, Laura George PRINTING Boylan Print Group ORIGINATION Typeform Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Image Publications, 22 Crofton Road, Dun Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland, +353 (0)1 280 8415; advertising sales, +353 (0)1 271 9625; fax +353 (0)1 280 8309; image.ie, email info@image.ie. Company registration number 56663 © Image Publications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of Aer Lingus or IMAGE Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus and IMAGE Publications Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from IMAGE Publications Ltd.

Josh Ritter is a singer-songwriter with

a long standing connection with Ireland through musician pals like Glen Hansard and Mark Geary. Following in the footsteps of his parents, Ritter originally studied neuroscience but later decided that music was his thing. He has released seven albums to date, including the latest, The Beast In Its Tracks. His novel Bright’s Passage was published in 2011, and when asked to write a Trip of a Lifetime piece for Cara, see page 136, he said emphatically: “I would LOVE to. I read the magazine on the plane over to Dublin. I love it!” choosing his home state of Idaho as a favourite destination.

cara magazine July 2013

July 2013

actor Domhnall Gleeson Dublin las Vegas paris catalonia copenhagen Warsaw new york Josh ritter

IMAGE Publications Ltd – PUBLISHING COMPANY OF THE YEAR 2010 TO ADVERTISE PLEASE CALL NOËLLE O’REILLY ON +353 (0)1 271 9621 OR EMAIL NOELLE.OREILLY@IMAGE.IE

Customer magazine of the year

Cool Hunting Discover the best of Dublin city right now

ON THE COVER

Park life

Meet the people behind Ireland’s best-loved parks

A fine vintage Finding rags and riches in Paris

Big city bling Honeymooning in Las Vegas

Mountain retreat

Discovering serenity and charm in Catalonia

domhnall gleeson The actor on fame and fortune

PlUs

irish parks

Cara magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland. IMAGE Publications Ltd is a member of the Press Council of Ireland and supports the Office of the Press Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit pressombudsman.ie or presscouncil.ie

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Freewheeling Ciara O Donovan photographed by Matthew Thompson


Celebrating luxury, creativity, service and the very best Irish and international brands since 1849.

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BROWN THOMAS GRAFTON STREET DUBLIN, PATRICK STREET CORK, O’CONNELL STREET LIMERICK, EGLINGTON BUILDINGS GALWAY WWW.BROWNTHOMAS.COM


who Anne, Ken and Maggie Pedicini Flying From London here For ... The Pedicini Family are in Ireland for a few days to visit their son who is studying Economics at DCU.

who Bentomin, Patricia and Maria Sesena Flying From Madrid here For ... Adopted Dubliner Patricia was at T2 to meet her parents Bentomin and Maria before showing them Ireland’s sights over three days.

who Ernie Kovar and Jeanne Frentz Flying From Dallas via Heathrow here For ... Ernie and Jeanne are on a country-wide adventure. They’re going to have a pint in Galway, see the Cliffs of Moher and kiss the Blarney Stone.

Arrivals

Cara magazine was at Dublin’s T2 this month, meeting Aer Lingus passengers over to make music, see family and have some holiday fun. who Aaron and Robin Morgan Flying From London here For ... Aaron was waiting at the airport gates to meet Robin and her mum who were in the Philippines for her uncle’s wedding.

WORDS By MéABH MCDOnnELL. PHOTOGRAPHS By AnTHOny WOODS

who Alexandra Rojas and Javier Zuago Flying From Madrid here For ... English student Alexandra is back to the books after a few weeks holiday at home in Spain. Her boyfriend, Javier, accompanied her for a short visit before he heads home.

who Amelia and Ruth O’MahonyBrady Flying From London here For ... Amelia was in T2 to meet her sister, Ruth, off the plane. Musician Ruth is back home for a week to visit family,, and get busy in the recording studio.

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July 2013

who Claudia Huber and Brix Schaumberg Flying From Hamburg here For ... Claudia and Brix are in Ireland for a working holiday where singer Brix hopes to play a few gigs around the country. who Roslyn, Hayden and Karen Clusker Flying From Perth here For ... Karen spent the last seven months working and travelling in Australia. Her sister Roslyn was waiting at T2 to welcome her home.


Paul Costelloe

Klickity Yvonne Ryan

LOVE IRISH DESIGN Jennifer Rothwell

Dublin’s landmark department store and has been proudly, supporting, promoting and nurturing Irish Design since its opening in 1843. Today you can look, feel and touch the work of over 60 talented Irish designers in fashion, beauty, home and giftware – alongside leading International names, all under one elegant roof.

Shop online www.arnotts.ie

Arnotts, 12 Henry St, Dublin 1 / 01 805 04400

Like us on Facebook Arnotts Department Store

Follow us on Twitter @arnottsdublin


Blarney Castle & Gardens Renowned for bestowing the gift of eloquence

See and feel Irelands heritage, built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains. Spend the day exploring the extensive grounds and gardens.

Open all year round 5 miles from Cork Open Monday - Sunday 9-6 www.blarneycastle.ie info@blarneycastle.ie n

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Find out what’s on, where and when in July

Breaking the waves Surf’s up in the Canaries, when Playa Sotavento consecutively hosts the 28th Fuerteventura Windsurfing and Kiteboarding World Cup. The double-hander kicks off with PWA Windsurfing Freestyle (July 20-26) before turning to PKRA Kiteboarding – the Slalom Grand Slam (July 27-30) and Freestyle Grand Slam (July 31 to August 3). Adrenaline junkies are invited to watch from the René Egli Center, ooh-ing and aah-ing at the races, tricks and feats from the world’s windsurfing and kiteboarding elite, meanwhile there’ll be a familyfriendly marquee set up on the sands. (fuerteventura-worldcup.org) AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO FUERTEVENTURA EVERY SAT.


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STAy

4 bee-keeping hotels

Biodiversity is the buzzword, and these hotels are a hive of honeyed activity ...

Fairmont Copley Plaza

138 St James Ave, Boston In 2012, Boston’s Fairmont Copley Plaza installed 130,000 bees in three hives not only to help pollinate the parsley, chives, sage, rosemary, thyme, lavender and basil grown in its rooftop herb garden but also to provide fresh honey to its OAK Long Bar + Kitchen. No wonder hungry customers swarm to its menus … Rooms from $297. +1 617 267 5300; fairmont.com

The Athenaeum

116 Piccadilly, Mayfair, London Last year this five-star family-run hotel won the Tea Guild award for Best London Afternoon Tea, thanks in part to its rooftop bees producing nectar of the gods. Cue honey-roast ham sandwiches, honey macaroons, mille-feuille and cheesecake – they even use it in some of their spa treatments. Afternoon tea from £29.50, rooms from £262. +44 207 499 3464; athenaeumhotel.com

Mandarin Oriental Paris

251 Rue Saint-Honoré, Paris The rooftops of Paris’s Opéra, the Grand Palais and Louis Vuitton HQ have been homes to many a bee for ages, and last year the Mandarin Oriental Paris installed 50,000 tiny guests on to its 20th floor, the results of which have appeared in Bar 8’s Honey Kingston cocktail (€26) and complimentary honey pots offered to guests. Rooms from €825. +33 17 098 7888; mandarinoriental.com/paris

Park Hyatt Hamburg

Bugenhagenstrasse 8, Hamburg Harvested twice a year – and served from mid-August in Apple restaurant – Park Hyatt Hamburg’s liquid gold is created by 120,000 busy bees producing multi-flower honey for the breakfast buffet. You don’t even have to stay the night to enjoy the fruits of the bees’ labour – non-guests can buy honey pots to take away. +49 403 332 1234; hamburg.park.hyatt.com

diARy

Head first in eco tourism Recently crowned Ireland’s Best Place to Stay, Co Clare’s Loop Head is an expert example of eco tourism, finds Lucy White.

diARy

Manchester united in arts Once upon a time, Britain’s Manchester was the world’s first industrial city but in recent years it has earned serious stripes for its Manchester International Festival. Kenneth Branagh’s Macbeth has long since sold out – ditto Goldfrapp – but other highlights this July 4-21 include Maxine Peake in Percy Bysshe Shelley’s poem The Masque of Anarchy, Willem Dafoe and Mikhael Baryshnikov in an adaptation of Daniil Kharms’ novella The Old Woman, above, and a 65-hour-long performance by Indian artist Nikhil Chopra at the Whitworth Gallery; mif.co.uk AER LiNGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN, CORK AND SHANNON TO MANCHESTER DAILY.

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July 2013

“To see Loop Head Lighthouse, or Carrigaholt Castle. To visit the school of 160 dolphins in the Shannon with Dolphinwatch. The cliff walk in Kilkee, followed by a cool down in the Pollock Holes, the natural swimming pools, or a warm up in the local seaweed baths …” Mary Redmond is extolling the virtues of her Loop Head hometown, which this summer won the Irish Times’ title of ‘Best Place to Stay in Ireland’. “I quoted from the Masons survey of 1814, whose description of the peninsula could have been written last week, so similar and unspoiled is the environment here,” she says of

her winning entry that fought off 1,400 applications. In 2010 Loop Head won a European Eden award for its sustainability credentials, while an emphasis on supporting the local economy – such as local guides welcoming visitors off the big tour buses in nearby Kilkee “for a more personal visit” – helping maintain its unique character. For more info on Ireland’s Best Place to Stay, visit loophead.ie.


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PATEK PHILIPPE GENEVE


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Sand in the city Pull up a deckchair at some of the world’s best urban beaches, says Nancy Rockett. Little beats the carefree feeling of sun on skin and sand between toes, and landlubbers can still work that beach vibe. From July 20 to August 18, the banks of the River Seine are pedestrianised to make way for Paris Plages; a jamboree of imported sand, sun loungers, ice cream sellers, beach volleyball, book borrowing, swimming pools and water sports, below. Berlin’s River Spree, too, is

a focal point during summer across its 30-odd waterside bars – cue imported sand, deckchairs and some of the best nightlife of Germany’s party capital. Landlocked Brussels is also in on the action, hosting Bruxelles les Bains, right, from July 5 to August 11, spreading 3,000 tonnes of sand from the North Sea across a 1 kilometre site, where concerts, sporting events and children’s entertainment abound. And for an urban beach with a view, they don’t get much better than at New Jersey’s Newport Green Park whose River Hudson location has a vista of the Manhattan skyline. The sandy site welcomes an all-day family-friendly beach party on July 24, with kids’ entertainment scheduled throughout the month.

3 best ...

Food

What’s cooking in Edinburgh?

Irish-born Roisin and Frenchman Matthias Llorente are chefs at Edinburgh’s widely lauded Bia Bistrot. Eoin Higgins hears from the duo about eating and drinking in the city this month. “Th The Gardner’s Cottage (th thegardenerscottage.co) has just been voted Newcomer ju of the Year 2013 in The List magazine, and it’s no surprise ma as their dinner menu is a no-choice, six-course, daily no changing meal based around ch truly seasonal and intelligently tr sourced food.”

“If you want food as fresh as it can be, the Edinburgh Farmers’ Market (edinburghfarmersmarket. com) takes place under the backdrop of Edinburgh Castle from 9am to 2pm every Saturday. Over 55 producers attend the market, and there are fantastic Slow Food cooking demos on the first Saturday of every month.” “Natural Selection Brewing (naturalselectionbrewing.com) is an annual project by students at the International Centre for Brewing and Distilling at HeriotWatt University – participants have to create and produce a new beer, trying to outdo the previous year’s students’ efforts. The resultant beer is launched this month.”

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July 2013

“Time for Tea: Tasting at the National Museum of Scotland (www.nms.ac.uk) is a lovely way to while away a morning or afternoon and learn about the origins of tea. It’s also a great chance to taste some lesserknown varieties – the next one is on July 17th from 10.30am to 12.30pm. Plus, it’s free!”

“This month we also have th hugely popular weekend the beer bash: The Scottish Real ale Festival (camra.org.uk) at the fantastic Corn Exchange. With hundreds of ales to try, you’re sure to find the perfect pint for your taste buds. It’s on from July 11-14.” aER LiNGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN, CORK AND SHANNON TO EdiNBURGH DAILY.

Protect their peepers with these kids’ sunglasses, says Sive O’Brien. FLaMiNGo SUNGLaSSES €10 at Bluezoo

aviaToR SUNGLaSSES €7 at Marks & Spencer

REd BaNd SUNGLaSSES €17.95 Babybanz at babytravelshop.ie


• Open 7 days a week, all year round • Guided tours • Tutored tasting • Gift Shop • Café GLaSSES up To DrInkInG rESponSIBLy

Bury Quay, Tullamore, Co. Offaly, Ireland Tel: +353 (0) 57 93 25015 Email: info@tullamoredew.com www.tullamoredewvisitorcentre.com facebook.com/TullamoreDewVisitorCentre Visit


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CULtURE

A universal language From French plays to Mongolian folk music, this year’s Lincoln Center Festival couldn’t be more worldly. Chen Shi-Zheng and Gorillaz cohorts Damon ‘Blur’ Albarn and Jamie Hewlett revive their Chinese opera Monkey: Journey to the West (July 6-28), which previously played in Manchester, Paris, Charleston and London. Elsewhere, John Malkovich directs Theatre de l’Atelier in Les Liaisons Dangereuses, 25 years after making Viscount de Valmont all his own in Stephen Frears’ film adaptation of the same drama (July 9-14; French language with English surtitles). The inimitable Sinead O’Connor will be belting out numbers from the likes of Sam Cooke and the Soul Stirrers at The Gospel Sessions (July 26-27), while the dream-like, wordless Murmurs (July 24-28) and the dark Japanese love story Shun-kin (July 9-13) are destined to enchant; lincolncenterfestival.org AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO NEW YORK DAILY AND SHANNON ON TUES, THUR AND SAT.

FOOd

A moveable feast Food festivals abound around Ireland this summer, but few are as hotly anticipated as this month’s Kenmare Food Carnival. Eoin Higgins dons his party hat. What’s it all about? The annual Kerry food festival at fecund grub lovers’ hotspot, Kenmare; last year’s shindig was a tasty smorgasbord of tastes, tipples and well-known food personalities from across the land and the Kingdom of Kerry itself. Where’s it on? Famous as much for its stunning scenery as its great food, the

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picturesque enclave nestles comfortably in the embrace of Kenmare Bay. As a starting point for discovering the rest of the Southwest, there are few places that can compete with Kenmare’s delightful charm. Highlights? This year, the festival promises even more Hibernian food and fun over the weekend with workshops, masterclasses, cookery demonstrations, celebrity appearances and a fun parade, however, the real stars of the carnival are, of course, the region’s top food producers and chefs. When’s it happening? The Kenmare Food Carnival is happening the weekend of July 12-14. Tickets for the entire weekend, or a single day’s fun, can be purchased by visiting kenmarefoodcarnival.com.

honour rse Ronan is guest of MOVIE MAGIC Saoi 14. m Fleadh this July 9at the 25th Galway Fil ’s o welcomes Star Trek The all-star event als e th , ss cla an acting master Zachary Quinto for Fionnula e’s a Breeze, starring world premiere of Lif hn en adaptation of Jo Flanagan, and a scre h.com Sea. galwayfilmflead Banville’s novel The

The liberTy belle Forced to close after Hurricane Sandy in October 2012, the Statue of Liberty will reopen this Independence Day. Its infrastructure destroyed by the freak storm, Liberty Island was submerged by 75 per cent – but the 127-year-old monument withstood the battering, and will be regaled with a short opening ceremony on July 4; statuecruises.com


Consult the big ďŹ sh this side of the pond.

Think Foreign Direct Investment in Ireland and there’s one name you need to know - Danske Bank. Our team of advisors are on hand to provide local insight with international experience. For more information, contact Stephen Mullin on +353 (0)1 484 2841 or stephen.mullin@danskebank.ie www.danskebank.ie

LC6003 Danske Bank A/S (trading as Danske Bank) is authorised by The Danish FSA in Denmark and is regulated by the Central Bank of Ireland for conduct of business rules.


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food

Nice is the word

For decorous dining on the gorgeous Côte d’Azur, a superabundance of superb seafood restaurants means that choosing just one in Nice can be a bewildering proposition. Eoin Higgins narrows down the choices.

dIARY

Chai goes chi-chi

With a décor that certainly won’t please all comers L’Âne Rouge (7 Quai des 2 Emmanuel, +33 493 894 963; anerougenice.com) makes up for its interior aesthetics with superior gastronomics. Go for the bouillabaisse, it’s a little expensive at €75 for two people but certainly worth the indulgence for a pitch perfect example of the hearty Provençal stalwart.

Only the second Japanese chef in France to have been awarded a Michelin star, the eponymously named Keisuke Matsushima (22 Rue de France, +33 493 82 2606; keisukematsushima. com) has a seafood offering that is traditional and framebreaking – get to the heart of modern French cooking tempered with a minimalist Japanese hand. Here, the €28 prix fixe is a must.

BEAUTY

Emerald style Jade beauty gems are having a moment this summer. By Liz Dwyer.

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July 2013

AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN, CORK, SHANNON AND BELFAST TO LoNdoN DAILY.

MUSIC

Soul in the machine

PHOTOGRAPH BY JAMIE-JAMES MEDINA

Taking first prize in the talon contest this season is the limited edition YSL LA LAQUE CoUTURE IN VERT d’oRIENT, €21.

Tan fans will love ST TRoPEZ TAN REMoVER for preventing patches and stripping off stripes, €20.30.

AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO NICE DAILY AND FROM CORK ON TUE AND SAT.

lery (Pearse as it seems at the Science Gal TRICKS & TREATS All is not new sciencegallery.com), where its Street, Dublin 2, 01 896 4091; sor appropriately surnamed Profes show Illusion – curated by the ery. can chi l the science behind optica Richard Wiseman – explores

Capturing the essence of an Italian bombshell ToM foRd NERoLI PoRTofINo BodY oIL is decadence bottled, €40.30.

Mediterranean notes mingle with jasmine and lily accords in RoBERTo CAVALLI’s zesty new ACQUA EdT, €72.50.

Start with a well-made pastis to enliven your palate at Café de Turin (5 Place Garibaldi, Nice, +33 493 622 952; cafedeturin. fr) and then move onto a delicious seafood platter, served chilled: oysters, clams, shrimps, and so forth – strikingly fresh and intensely flavourful.

Fashion and eating may sound like a misnomer but London’s Berkeley hotel has unveiled this season’s high fashion high tea, “Pret-a-Portea”. These super-stylish morsels wouldn’t look out of place on the catwalk: highlights include Jason Wu’s chocolate leopard print hat-box cake, Manolo Blahnik’s fondant biscuit slingbacks and Alexander McQueen’s honeycomb and marzipan Queen Bees. So pretty are these treats you might be afraid to eat them – but you’ll be doing your taste buds a grave disservice. As for the saying “you can never be too rich or too thin” … sure, elasticated waistbands could be the next big thing, right? “Pret-a-Portea” costs £39 per person; the-berkeley.co.uk

Veteran soul man Bobby Womack’s career has been unequivocally revived by Damon Albarn who, in 2009, coaxed the Ohio singersongwriter out of pseudo hibernation to sing on Gorillaz’s Plastic Beach LP. Three years later, a reinvigorated Womack returned with the critically acclaimed The Bravest Man in the Universe, his first album of original, self-penned material since 1994’s Resurrection (co-produced by NBF Albarn and XL’s Richard Russell). Womack’s raw, grizzled vocals and sparse electronica create a pleasing frisson, while guest artists Lana del Rey, Fatoumata Diawara and Gil Scott-Heron add scope. This month he plays Vienna (July 3), Dublin’s Olympia Theatre (July 9), Stockholm (July 17) and at the UK’s Latitude Festival (July 21). bobbywomack.com


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Wish you were here Thi month, reader – This and passenger – Philip Joyce, left, presents a Jo long exposure shot of a lo carousel near the Eiffel ca Tower in Paris. Philip is To from Blanchardstown, fr Co Dublin Dublin, and took up photography as a hobby a few years ago. He says, “When I was in Paris I really wanted to get a shot of the Eiffel Tower I hadn’t seen before. I spotted a little funfair a couple of kilometres from the tower and left the shutter open for about five minutes so I could blur out the people and get the motion of the carousel in the shot.”

The technicals Have you a stunning photograph of your trip to an Aer Lingus destination to share? Send it to us at cara.wishyouwerehere@image.ie and we’ll publish our favourite shot in the October/ November issue. Photographs must be a 300-dpi high resolution file and accompanied by a portrait of yourself and 100 words about the story behind the shot. The editor’s decision is final.

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July 2013


July 2013

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HeadPHones Bose, €124 at Dundrum Town Centre, Dublin 16

PH By rICHA

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sunglasses Illesteva, €220 at mrporter.com

PHOTOG rA

iPad €339 at Arnotts, Henry Street, Dublin 1

donkey Print t-sHirt Marni, €146 at Brown Thomas, Grafton Street, Dublin 2

What’s in my Pocket square Alexander Olch, €55 at mrporter.com

suitcase

Jonathan legge is a product designer, design consultant, and one half of Irish sibling duo makers&brothers.com, the online design and craft site. Flitting between design projects in Stockholm; London (where he lives); Dublin, where the business is; and New York for cool pop-up store events (at The Standard High line NYC this autumn), is all in a day’s work. Sive O’Brien peeks in his bag. cotton Jacket Vetra, €135 at presentlondon.com

digital caMera €498 at sony.com

WatcH Junghans, €794 at skandium.com

knitted sWeater €130 at norseprojects.com

Pure Pu soaP €4.70 at drbronner.co.uk trainers Nike, €150 at nike.com

sWiM sHorts €158 at orlebarbrown.co.uk Wallet Comme des Garçons, €65 at doverstreetmarket.com

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July 2013

Moleskin notebook €10.90 at Eason, nationwide


No need to travel for world-class care Whether you are travelling to Ireland or live here, it’s comforting to know that world-class care is within easy reach. And when emergencies happen, you can trust the specialists at UPMC Beacon Hospital’s Emergency Department and expert physicians to provide prompt, urgent treatment when you need it most. Our Emergency Department is open Monday to Saturday, 8am-8pm and if hospitalisation is required, the Hospital accepts Irish private health insurance, BUPA International and many others including some US-based health plans. UPMC Beacon Hospital located in Sandyford, Dublin is a full-service community teaching hospital, part of the University of Pittsburgh Medical Center, an internationally recognised health system. UPMC Beacon Hospital is a leader in orthopaedics, cancer, surgery and surgical specialties, and cardiac services – all backed by one of the most trusted names in health care – UPMC. World-class care close to home – wherever home might be.

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UPMC Beacon Hospital. Because you deserve better. www.beaconhospital.ie

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Smart Traveller|

Networking in Stockholm, or business tripping in Chicago? Lisa Hughes investigates the best bases.

LittLe BLack Book STOCKHOLM

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As MD and founder of Dee’s Wholefoods, an Irish vegetarian food company, Deirdre Collins travels the world spreading the word on nutrition. Her favourite city to do business in is Stockholm. “Stockholm is great for business travellers because … The transport links are so efficient ... You can get online pretty much everywhere, and Wi-Fi is free at any hotel I’ve stayed in. A good place for business meetings … Try Nytorget Urban Deli (Nytorget 4, 116 40, +46 859 909 180; urbandeli.org) in the hip Södermalm district. The food and service are amazing, as is the lively atmosphere. Best business hotel … I like to stay at the J Hotel in Nacka Beach (Ellensviksvägen 1, 131 28 Nacka Strand, +46 8601 3000; hotelj. com), which overlooks both the ocean and the city. It’s ten minutes outside the city and a peaceful spot. The boathouse Restaurant J serves wonderful food, if slightly on the pricey side. Business lunch … The vegetarian buffet in the Ortagarden (Nybrogatan 31, 114 39, +46 8662 1728; ortagarden.com) is excellent value, but nothing in the city can beat Hermans in Södermalm (Fjällgatan 23B, +46 8643 9480; hermans.se), which has supertasty vegetarian food and a terrace with great views. Best for business drinks … The Skybar

on top of the Radisson Blu Royal Viking (Vasagatan 1, 101 24 Stockholm, +46 850 654 000; radissonblu.com/ royalvikinghotelstockholm) is pretty spectacular. Tipping … Ten per cent is the standard if you’re happy with your meal and it’s common to leave small change as a tip in bars. Saving time on business travel … Plan ahead and book online. Pre-book all your train journeys online and book a meal on-board to save time. It is also worth using a company to plan your meetings – I used marketlink.se for my first visit to Sweden. Money saver … Stockholm has a reputation for being very expensive but I don’t find it any more so than Dublin. Buy a travel pass and the metro will take you from the shopping district to the old town, to trendy Södermalm. On your downtime … Pay a visit to Central Badet thermal spa (Drottninggatan 88, 111 36, +46 8545 213 00; centralbadet.se), an Art Nouveau haven in the middle of the city. A visit to the baths costs around €30 but there is no time limit on how long you stay.”

Must-have travel gadget Hardshell EO Roller Case Lightweight enough to use as a carry-on but durable enough to keep your electronics safe, the Hardshell eo Roller case has individual, expandable pockets for your tablet and laptop, and holds enough clothes for a long weekend ($299.95, goincase.com). 22 |

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Business hotels in Chicago

PARK HYATT With an enviable location on the Magnificent Mile, this sophisticated hotel, above, offers views across the city and Lake Michigan as well as having valet parking and free internet. The stylish NoMi Kitchen, with its outdoor terrace, is the perfect spot for morning meetings. (800 North Michigan Avenue, +1 312 335 1234; parkchicago.hyatt.com) FAIRMONT CHICAGO A stone’s throw from scenic Millennium Park, this luxury hotel boasts spacious rooms with iPod docks and 42-inch flat-screen TVs. The Fairmont Gold Concierge Level is a business travel haven with a private lounge, a free business centre with all amenities and 5,860 square metres of meeting space. (200 North Columbus Drive, +1 312 565 8000; fairmont.com/chicago) SOFITEL CHICAGO WATER TOWER Stay in a chic room decorated in bright colours and featuring plush white beds at this fourstar property. Located two blocks from the Magnificent Mile, the hotel offers excellent meeting and conference facilities, SoFit Recreation Centre and 24/7 business centre and concierge services. 20 East Chestnut Street, Downtown, +1 312 324 4000; sofitelchicago.com) COMFORT SUITES Forget tiny rooms, this hotel offers spacious studios and one or two bedroom suites with home comforts such as full kitchens and laundry services so you can travel light. The internet and breakfast are free, as is access to three meeting spaces and a 24-hour business centre. (320 North Michigan Avenue, +1 312 384 1208; comfortsuiteschicago.com)

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Shelf Life|

Reading the landscape: Bridget Hourican highlights a geographical history of Ireland and some of the best native crime writing.

Who’s reading what? Egyptian novelist Ahdaf Soueif likes to read about her destination when travelling.

WHAT ARE YOU READING? Iraqi author Sinan Antoon’s Hail Mary.. It was short-listed for the International Prize for Arab Fiction. I hope it will be available in English soon. BEST BOOK TO TAKE ON A JOURNEY? We have some ancient Mills and Boon in our summer house in Egypt. They belonged to my aunt and I always re-read bits when I’m there. But really, mostly when I’m travelling I read good guide books or local histories. BOOK YOU WISH YOU’D NEVER TAKEN? Tolstoy’s War and Peace. I was so involved with it that I couldn’t engage with the journey! FAVOURITE PLACE FOR A HOLIDAY? picks out 30 undiscovered, I really love going to our place on the north affordable places to stay, coast of Egypt. I always check that the sea revealing a penchant really is the amazing turquoise I remember WELL VERSED for France, Italy and the sand is really white. Prose, poetry, video and India – and WHAT ARE YOU LOOKING FORWARD and personal histories from basking in the TO SEEING IN IRELAND? storymap.ie collide at the Irish sun. Forget It’s my first visit to Ireland but of course Writers’ Centre on July 5-12 cold, rain, or I have an Ireland of the mind through as part of this year’s 10 Days wind – when he reading Joyce, Synge and Edna O’Brien. in Dublin Festival, the series goes to the US, So I’m looking forward to a totally new having an expat theme; it’s Arizona or experience – but one where there will be 10daysindublin.ie / Palm Springs. His many moments of recognition. writerscentre.ie literary style ranges

THE AUTHENTIC LOOK “Stylishly sophisticated bolthole decorated with traditional Moroccan elements and materials that have been used in a pareddown, bold, and contemporary way” – that’s a description of Hotel Tigmi near Marrakesh, but it could serve for any of the hotels, such as Hotel Raya, above, featured in Amazing Places Cost Nothing: The New Golden Age of Authentic Travel by Herbert Ypma (Thames & Hudson, £24.95). Turn the pages for photo after photo of white-washed walls, stripped floors, exposed beams, crisp sheets and traditional fixtures. The man behind HIP hotels, Ypma

from Wallpaper hipster to Austin Powers groovy but he certainly knows how to seek out places you want to visit.

Ahdaf Soueif is author of The Map of Love. She will appear as part of the West Cork Literary Festival, at the Maritime Hotel, Bantry, on July 7 at 8.30pm.

New travel reads ... Peking to Paris by Dina Bennett (Skyhorse Di Publishing, £16.38). In Pu 2007, to commemorate 20 the 1907 Peking-Paris th car rally, Bennett, her ca husband, and other hu well-heeled ecce eccentrics undertook the same 16,000- kilometre trip in a 1940 Cadillac LaSalle ... the car breaks down but the marriage survives. 24 |

July 2013

The Longest Road by Philip Caputo (Henry Ph Holt, £18.38, out July Ho 16). In 2011, Pulitzer16 prize author Caputo pr packed his wife and pa two dogs into a truck tw in Florida en ro route to Alaska, 26,000 kilometres away. On the journey he asks everyone he meets what unites such a huge, diverse country.

Canoeing the Congo by Philip Harwood (Summersdale, £9.99). (S The world’s deepest river, the Congo, starts in th Zambia and flows 4,702 Za kilometres to the Atlantic ki Ocean. Ex-mar Ex-marine Harwood spent five months alone on a canoe facing swamps, crocodiles, hippos, snakes, malaria ... and man.


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On my travels The charismatic Breton/Irish actor Olwen Fouéré divulges her wanderlust to Sive O’Brien.

As a performer for Ireland’s eminent theatre companies, Olwen Fouéré has also trodden the boards of some iconic stages including Paris’s Théâtre Des Bouffes Du Nord, Brooklyn’s BAM Harvey Theatre and Tokyo’s The Globe. From July 18-27, she brings to life the voice of Dublin’s River Liffey in Riverrun, an adaptation of Finnegans Wake by James Joyce at the Galway Arts Festival (galwayartsfestival.com) and at the Kilkenny Arts Festival from August 15-17 (kilkennyartsfestival.com). I grew up in … Aughrusbeg, on the very edge of the Atlantic, near Inishbofin and Omey Island in Galway. There is nowhere like it. The most rewarding trip was … at the launch of a water project in the middle of nowhere in South Africa – an all-day festival celebrating the installation of the only pump with clean water within a 30-minute walk from the village. Three standout holidays … through the desert in Western Egypt in 1983, by bus, then hitching a lift on an oil tanker, stopping for days in the oases of Dakhla and Baharia; ten days in the Namib desert in 1997; and travelling by four-wheel drive from Caracas through the

PHOTOGRAPH By COLM HOGAN

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Grand Savanna in Venezuela. The most interesting culture is … at the moment, Japanese, especially the very ancient theatre tradition of Noh. And, South American culture for its music. Interesting stories abroad … usually involve a potential disaster, like getting lost or stuck in the desert overnight – a beautiful experience once you surrender to it – or thinking that your travelling companion in Venezuela (an Irish missionary priest) had fallen into a gorge and died. Or, nearly drowning while delivering a letter from my brother to a hermit who lived in Canaima, near Angel Falls! The best performance … is one that leaves you disturbed and impassioned in a way that you can’t describe.

The funniest thing to happen abroad … was getting lost for hours in the Grand Savanna. We sang to pass the time as we drove around in unknown circles. Thank God for the hip flask of whiskey. The most inspiring person I have starred opposite is … most recently, Sean Penn. He is a true artist. Another was a seven-year-old girl, Ciara Harrison, who had an uncanny knowledge of what was happening at any given moment, as though it was being beamed down to her from another place. If you could go anywhere in the world, it would be … Maybe Iceland for a few days and then travel onwards by sea. Places on my wish list ... Greece – I’ve never been – and also Mongolia, where I would

3 best canal trips

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With its 58 locks and 47 bridges, Sweden’s “Blue Ribbon” aka the Göta Canal connects a network of lakes as well as Stockholm with Gothenburg. Boat rentals and pleasure cruises are plentiful, as is bike hire along the way – perfect for visiting the plethora of villages, museums and churches. (gotakanal.se)

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Ireland’s River Shannon is 386 kilometres long and spans 11 counties – that’s a lot of sightseeing opportunities. From Co Fermanagh in Northern Ireland to Co Kerry in the Irish Republic, the waterway offers diversity for both leisurely barge and cruiser holidays and short but sweet three-day jaunts. (shannon-river.com)

like to learn throat singing. I’m drawn to … anywhere with water, yet I’m also drawn to the desert. I would love to travel down The Nile, Amazon or Mississippi. My husband David once walked out the door in Ranelagh wearing a knapsack, and followed the Grand Canal until he reached Athlone. I should do that, maybe along the Liffey and follow it literally, as opposed to metaphorically as I do in the production of Riverrun. I’d definitely return to … Japan. I’ve only been to Tokyo, I stayed in a Ryokan on the first night, which introduced me to Matcha tea and a whole new way of living, sleeping and washing. I also had an interesting moment, like a memory of having been there before, in another life.

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New York is best known for its skyline but the State also boasts more than 843 kilometres of canals. Dating back to the early-1800s, the waterway links Erie Canal in the west with Hudson River’s Chaplain Canal in the east, welcoming every type of vessel from kayaks to pontoons to cruise ships. (nyscanals.gov)


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Doing it for the kids From acrobatics to astronomy, there’s a varied line-up of entertainment for children this summer, reports Lauren Murphy. ummer holidays, boring? Not this year. The Irish have always placed a strong emphasis on family, but that element is especially pronounced in this summer of The Gathering, with events taking place in every county to keep even the youngest clan members satisfied. Aspiring young jugglers, platespinners and stilt-walkers can tap into their inner Bozos at a fun, circus skills workshop, Roll Up! Roll Up!, which runs at The Ark in Dublin’s Temple Bar from July 4 to August 31 (1a Eustace Street, Dublin 2, 01 670 7788; ark.ie). “The circus remains an extremely popular art form and we are lucky in Ireland to have an incredibly rich circus heritage,” says organiser Muireann Sheahan. “Everyone will be encouraged to roll up their sleeves and have a go.” Performers will guide visitors through four floors of interactive exhibits, after which there’s the chance to learn a specific skill to set the Big Top alight. It’s up to you whether you want to pursue the circus life afterwards – but watch out for that banana skin on the way out. On the other hand, perhaps the little people in your life have their sights set further than the Big Top. Blackrock Castle Observatory, tucked

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away on the outskirts of Cork city, is running a Space Camp for wannabe astronauts from July 8-12 and 22-26 (Castle Road, Blackrock, Co Cork, 021 435 7917; bco.ie). Kids, aged eight to twelve, will learn the secrets of the solar system, build and launch their own rockets and stargaze via a remote telescope from Lanzarote. For something the whole family can enjoy, the observatory also runs a free astronomy workshop on the first Friday of every month. For an event that combines history, literature and breathtaking natural beauty, visit Avondale House – birthplace of Irish political leader Charles Stewart Parnell – on July 6. There, Chapterhouse Theatre Company is staging an open air production of children’s classic The Wind in the Willows (Rathdrum, Co Wicklow, 04 044 6111; chapterhouse.org), Kenneth Grahame’s classic tale brought to life via music, song and dance. History looms larger over the Féile Brian Ború from July 4-7, the annual celebration of the O’Brien clan founder in Killaloe and Ballina, Co Mayo (086 446 2446; feilebrianboru. com). Hopefully there’ll be much less blood and a lot more giggles during the Medieval battle re-enactments, sword-fighting, street theatre, music,

3 Family Festivals

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LOLLIBOP FESTIVAL, LONDON, AUGUST 16-18 Taking place at the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, Lollibop is essentially the Olympics of children’s entertainment. Cue big-name live turns by Peppa Pig and Transformers, an Enchanted Forest, Science Zone experiments, a Lollibop Kitchen and more. lollibopfestival.co.uk

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Jumping for joy – sail through the summer holidays at one of Ireland’s many childrens’ festivals this year.

SUMMERSTAGE GLOBAL FAMILY DAY, NEW YORK, JULY 7 A free, family-friendly version of Central Park’s acclaimed SummerStage concert series, this afternoon-long programme’s mix of physical theatre, dance and kid-friendly music includes a performance by well-known children’s recording artist Elizabeth Mitchell. cityparksfoundation.org

cooking workshops, falconry, and more, culminating in a fireworks finale over the River Shannon. Finally, prepare to be gobsmacked at the Laya Street Performance World Championship in Dublin (July 12-14, Merrion Square) and Cork (July 20-21, St Patrick’s Street; spwc.ie). This popular event draws huge crowds every year, but there’s truly something for everyone, with fire-eaters, magicians, contortionists, breakdancers and tutu-wearing unicyclists vying to be crowned the most entertaining and eccentric in their field. The congenial atmosphere is enhanced by food stalls, buskers and a “Ministry of Silly Ideas”, wherein custard pies are flung with gusto, and a record-breaking attempt will be made for “most water balloons thrown simultaneously at a clown”. Best of all, it’s completely free.

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SPRAOI , WATERFORD, AUGUST 2-4 It’s no surprise that “spraoi” is the Irish word for “party”, because that’s what this long-running family festival is all about. The streets of Waterford come alive with music, street performers, acrobatic and circus displays, culminating in a “Flotsam and Jetsam”-themed parade and a fireworks extravaganza. spraoi.com


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interview

time to shine

Domhnall Gleeson has been a presence on stage and screen for the past decade but it has taken a Richard Curtis film to cast him as a romantic lead. Gleeson talks to Tony Clayton-Lea about following his father into acting and dodging fame. Photographs by Richard Gilligan. he first thing you notice about 30-yearold, six-feet-plus Irish actor Domhnall Gleeson is the shock of unruly red hair that announces itself without so much as a beg-yourpardon. The second thing you notice is a certain casualness of demeanour that comes with not really noticing that members of the public are looking at you; and the third is just how much of a nice guy he is. He may be wearing Alexander McQueen

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threads (the price of which you really don’t want to know) for the photo shoot that accompanies this article, but back in a high-ceilinged room at Dublin’s five-star Merrion Hotel for our interview, it’s off with the fancy tops and back on with his red striped T-shirt. For someone so grounded, it will be a measure of his mettle as to how he engages with the response to his forthcoming movie, About Time. Gleeson has been a steady screen presence (as well as a director/

writer of two well-received short films) for the best part of ten years, yet his film roles to date have been character parts, blink-and-you-missit parts or I-know-the-face-but-justcan’t-place-the-name parts. About Time will change all that. In a career first, Gleeson plays a leading role. Not only that, but it’s a leading role in a rom-com directed and written by Richard Curtis (he of Four Weddings and a Funeral and Love, Actually fame), and co-starring American actress


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Rachel McAdams. The plot revolves around a suspension of disbelief: the male line of the Lake family can, on reaching the age of 21, travel back in time – but only to change events in their own lives. Cue Tim (Gleeson) repeatedly making sure, via his handy time-shifting ability, that Mary (McAdams) will fall in love with him. To observers, About Time isn’t just another movie for Gleeson – it’s a game changer. He deflects such a notion in a typically self-deprecating manner: “I’m sure a bunch of more famous people were cast for it and refused it, so then I was offered it. If you’re honest with yourself that’s probably the way it happens a lot of the time.” True enough, but you’d be hard pressed to come up with a shortlist of other actors, Irish or otherwise, that could – as Gleeson flawlessly manages to do throughout the movie – channel their inner English middle-class attributes without being in any way irritating or false. “In some ways it’s just another movie,” he says, initially guardedly, “because an actor needs to work, so that they can make a living and express themselves, and do all of those artsy things that actors talk about. That’s why most actors work. If anyone goes into acting in order to make piles of money then they’re probably an idiot. The reason you do it is to make something worthwhile that might stick around for longer than you live.” On the other hand, however, Gleeson is cognisant of the fact that About Time is a bigger undertaking than many other movies he’s appeared in. He mentions a previous role in a big budget film (2012’s highly stylised Anna Karenina, which was directed by Joe Wright and co-starred Keira Knightley) where he played a romantic figure. That was, he admits with a smile, quite different to his usual “tortured, killed, under huge physical, life-threatening pressure roles. So I felt that if, as an actor, you could be in danger of your life, then why can’t you be in love? I also didn’t want to be the guy who was in drama roles all the time – I really 32 |

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Chemistry at work – Gleeson shares the romantic lead with Rachel McAdams in About Time.

wanted to see if I could do comedy.” Such characteristics go back years. Domhnall is, just in case you didn’t know, the son of acclaimed actor Brendan Gleeson, and – it could be argued – contracted the acting bug from a very early age. He recalls being on various television and movie sets as a child (“I remember there were free biscuits on the set of Braveheart!”) as well as enjoying his roles in secondary school productions of Grease and King Lear. He regards his Road to Damascus-like experience, however, as not occurring until his late teens, when he read the play The Lieutenant of Inishmore, by playwright (and now also filmmaker) Martin McDonagh. “Everything about that play was just amazing,” Gleeson enthuses. “Up to that point in my life it was the best thing I’d ever read, including novels. It was my all-time favourite thing; I’d be reading it on my way into college and I just found it so funny – it made me laugh many times on every page.” In what was either fate or serendipity (or both, come to think of it), around the time that he was reading the play, McDonagh and theatre producers were holding auditions for a substantial part. Gleeson shakes his head – dislodging long strands of hair in doing so – at what happened next. “Amazingly, madly, I got the part,

and so the first real acting job I had, at the age of 19, was in London’s West End. Very quickly from then, I realised that acting was what I wanted to do.” Small roles followed, as did college (“I was unwilling to work until I got my degree”) and, perhaps crucially at that point in his life, calm advice from his parents. “When I was in college, they said to me that I should choose a career based around what I was interested in and not what I thought would make me the most money.” Of course, several years previously, Gleeson’s father had done exactly that by quitting his teaching job for a stab at full-time acting. “It was a risky move,” he admits, “but he and my mother realised that it was what he wanted to do, and if he was going to be happy, he had to give it a shot. I imagine that if things hadn’t gone as well as they did for him – and it wasn’t all good at the start, I know – then I’m sure he would have gone back to teaching; there is a certain amount of reality that impacts on decisions you make.” On the subject of his famous father, Gleeson knows only too well that the virtues (and, in some cases – but not Gleeson’s – the sins) of the father can be laid at the feet of the son. “It’s possible some people do this, but I’ve never defined myself as ‘son of Brendan’. Or the fact of him being my father as something that


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held me back in any way. Everybody has to be known as something, and I’m as proud to be the son of my parents as I’m proud to be in a film that I hold in high regard. It’s never been an issue for me, to be honest.” And what about his decision to choose acting as a risky career option – did his father ever try to dissuade him from entering the profession? “No,” is Gleeson’s succinct, polite answer. “My parents always supported what I wanted to do. Every now and again, however, you would be reminded that if you’re going to go into acting, then you’re going to have periods of time – possibly very lengthy – where you’re not working. That it can be a very difficult lifestyle, even if you’re successful at it; and that standing on a red carpet is merely one of approximately three times a year out of a very unglamorous schedule ... But no, they were always really supportive, as I say, and the advice was given because they just wanted me to go into the business knowing the risks.”

If you get a sense of the person from the movie roles they choose, then we can safely say that Domhnall Gleeson is in it for the quality of the work, that he’s exceptionally good at what he does, and that he has no time for the fame game or the culture of celebrity. That said, About Time has the words “massive hit” stamped through it. Will it matter if Gleeson’s commercial profile goes skywards? “It matters if it impacts on your

life,” he ponders. “It matters if it makes it difficult for you to have a pint in a pub with your friends. And it can matter in a way that might make casting directors choose you for a role that they otherwise would have passed you over for. Of course, I don’t have any idea as to what will happen when the movie is released and, in a way, there’s no point worrying about things that you have no control over. If it happens, then I’ll have to reassess. “Fame having such an effect on you living your life is not nice, and in terms of it being something to aspire to, then no, I would follow my father’s lead on that, which is to say that it’s a load of rubbish.” Except Gleeson uses a ruder word than “rubbish”. And with that, he runs his fingers through his mop of hair, laughs, stretches out his long legs, and awaits fame to confront him. Fame, you sense, is going to have a tough fight on its hands. About Time (Universal Pictures) is released in Ireland, UK and Europe from September.

Domnhall Gleeson’s favourite ... MUSIC “I just downloaded David Bowie’s Hunky Dory album, and it’s very, very good. I haven’t listened to The Next Day, his new album, yet – I only know the single, “Where Are We Now?”, which is brilliant. I felt I needed to educate myself about Bowie – I know I should have heard Hunky Dory by this stage, but I’m the kind of person who has certain bands they listen to all of the time. One of these is the Strokes, who came along when I was 19, and they were massive for me. Ditto Sigur rós and the Dandy warhols – the bands I loved between the ages of 16 and 20 still matter to me. One album I’m really looking to hearing is Absolute Zero by Irish band Little Green Cars. Oh – and I love the Delorentos album, Little Sparks. I’ve always really loved what they’ve done, but this album is a major step up.” BOOKS “I’m really bad recently with

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books, because I tend to read a lot of scripts. That said I have a book of Philip Larkin’s collected poetry that I have with me all the time. I’ve been reading books by Kazuo Ishiguro – I’d read Never Let Me Go when I was preparing for my part in the film but thought I’d catch up on his other books. And I’m also dipping into a biography of raymond Chandler – A Mysterious Something in the Light, by Tom Williams. I love Chandler ... I also love Kevin Barry’s short story collection, There Are Little Kingdoms. And speaking of him, I really must get my hands on City of Bohane.” BArS “I like Kehoe’s, South Anne Street, and Smyths, Haddington Road, both in Dublin. I like sitting in a pub in the daytime, having a coffee, or sometimes a bottle of beer, and reading a newspaper, a book, or a script. As for

food I used d to go to The winding Stair quite a lot – near Bachelor’s Walk; lovely food, lovely people – but I haven’t been for a while. For my 30th birthday, though, my friends got me a voucher for the place, so I’ll be back soon!” DUBLIn PLACeS “I grew up in Malahide, which is north of Dublin on the coast, so that’s always a draw for me. I still have friends there, and I love the village and the people. It’s very peaceful just walking through the castle grounds and then further on out along the estuary.”

Top, Gleeson hanging out in Merrion Square, Dublin. Clockwise from left, Bowie’s Hunky Dory; Kevin Barry’s There Are Little Kingdoms; tasty bites at The Winding Stair; Malahide Castle.


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Whether you’re a fan of wild landscapes or something more manicured, there’s an Irish park to suit. Ben Webb talks to the guardians of our green spaces. Photographs by Steve Ryan. ucked away in a huge eerie of twigs and small branches, high in the windswept wilds of Killarney National Park in Co Kerry, are two fluffy balls of downy feathers. They are white-tailed eagle chicks and in Irish conservation circles they are both stars. “They are the summer highlight in the park,” declares a delighted Frank McMahon, the district conservation officer. “We hope they will fledge and help increase the eagle population.” As the first white-tailed eagles to be born in the wild in Ireland for over a century, they’re the result of six years’ hard work. More than 100 young birds have been imported from Norway, carefully nurtured in Killarney National Park and encouraged to breed. Ireland’s national parks, however, are about a lot more than saving birds of prey. Each of the six parks – Killarney, Ballycroy in Co Mayo, the Burren in Co Clare, Connemara in Co Galway, Glenveagh in Co Donegal, and Wicklow – is a fantastic resource that attracts hundreds of thousands of visitors, both recreational and educational, every year. A pair of hiking boots

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– and some suitably effective rainwear – is all you need to discover Glenveagh’s mountains and moors or Ballycroy’s blend of Atlantic blanket bog and rolling hills. Some of these landscapes are unique to Ireland. The Burren is almost lunar in appearance but bursts into life in summer. “Alpine and Arctic plants grow next to Mediterranean plants and acidloving plants grow in lime-rich soil,” says Emma Glanville, the conservation ranger. “Nowhere else in the world has this unique mix of plants.” The parks are also fertile places for the imaginations of the thousands of visiting school children. Clare Bromley, head of the nature education team at Glenveagh, says it’s not just pupils who learn something either. “Teachers often say we’ve brought the school curriculum alive for them as well as the children,” she says. “And parents tell us their child’s visit triggered conversations back in the family home about wildlife.” Ireland’s rich cultural heritage is also allowed to flourish. Traditional crafts such as horse-shoeing, harness-making, horse ploughing and threshing are still carried out on Killarney National Park’s farm and,

to help keep other parts of traditional Irish life alive, a replica schoolhouse from the 1950s is soon to open. Outside the national parks is a wide variety of other inspiring green spaces. The Iveagh Gardens in Dublin city, for example, is a hidden gem. “It is a unique place,” explains Donal Raynor, head gardener of the park that was designed by Ninian Niven in 1865, “a quirky blend of English, Italian and French designs. Bring a picnic, take a walk and enjoy the atmosphere. That is what the gardens are all about.” From the city centre to Ireland’s most remote outposts in the west, there is a park for everyone. Every day people enjoy hiking and running, cycling and kayaking, fishing and hunting, driving and climbing, camping and orienteering ... and, of course, birdwatching. “It will be exciting to watch the parents try to scoop a fish from the lakes as they hunt to feed the youngsters,” Frank says. “It will also be exciting to see the newly fledged chicks come to terms with the prevailing winds and take their maiden flight.” For more information on Ireland’s national parks visit npws.ie.


Clare Bromley

Education Co-ordinator, Glenveagh National Park, Co Donegal “The park is important for conservation because it tells a story that connects the past, present and future,” explains Clare. “The formation of the landscape, people’s presence here through the ages, and the changing diversity of flora and fauna all weave a picture that highlights Donegal’s rich cultural and natural heritage.” A sprawling wilderness of 170 square kilometres, Glenveagh National Park is home to several iconic species as diverse as the golden eagle and freshwater pearl mussel, as well as having a key role in helping to develop policy on the sustainable use of Ireland’s upland. Last year 120,000 visitors flocked there. “It sounds like a real cliché,” says Clare, “but there can’t be many people who’ve failed to be touched by this special place.” Clare, who studied Youth and Children’s Work at the University of Ulster and Environmental Studies with the Open University, has worked at Glenveagh for six years. With a small team of staff and volunteers, she runs a service teaching school children about nature and wildlife in the park. “I’m passionate about what I do,” says Clare, a mother of two. “Teaching and inspiring children to love our landscape and protect our natural world is crucial. There’s a real buzz in the work we do. My advice to visitors would be to come and walk. Bring a good pair of boots, a coat and enjoy the trails and paths, gardens and hills. The best spot is at the top of the View Point Trail. You can see for miles around.” glenveaghnationalpark.ie


people

Donal Raynor

The Gardener, The Iveagh Gardens, Dublin The head gardener of The Iveagh Gardens, Donal Raynor, is recovering after a long day. “Yesterday we had more than 5,000 children in the garden, playing, watching magicians, having picnics and we’re still cleaning up,” he says with a happy smile. “A good time was had by all.” Horticulturalist Donal, who studied at the National Botanic Gardens, has worked in the gardens for eight years and thoroughly enjoys the walking and talking tours with children. “When it comes to planting trees,” he adds, “It’s best to do it when you’re a child as you’ll get the benefit of them!” Designed in 1865, and tucked away behind the National Concert Hall, Donal’s verdant workplace is full of surprises. “No two days are ever the same,” he says. “It never gets boring. As the weather changes, the job changes.” There is also a very busy programme of events for which to prepare with both music and theatre events such as, in July, Damien Dempsey and Josh Ritter (see page 136), and from August 8-18, Fortune’s Fool Productions performing Free Shakespeare. September is Donal’s favourite month as the weather is still good, the leaves are changing colour and everyone is winding down for winter, but the spring is also beautiful. “The first buds appear on the chestnuts in January and I wait for them to pop into life,” he says. “I keep an eye on them every day, waiting for them to explode like champagne bottles. Or fireworks.” heritageireland.ie/en/dublin/ theiveaghgardens

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people

Meda Downey

Craft Gardener, Victorian Walled Kitchen Garden, Phoenix Park, Dublin “Summer is a lovely time to visit the walled kitchen garden,” says Meda. “All the fruit trees and vegetables are so full. But,” she adds seriously, “I’d recommend you visit six times over the year so you can appreciate all the changes and see how long it takes for everything to grow.” The two-and-ahalf acre garden was originally part of the kitchen garden of Ashtown Demesne and it can be seen on maps dating from 1838. In 2006 a restoration process began. Meda, who looks after the herbaceous borders, the orchards and the wide variety of vegetables that often end up in the kitchens of the visitors’ centre, has spent six years helping to bring it back to its former glory. “The glasshouse, which was designed by Jacob Owen in 1854, is next to be restored,” Meda says, clearly excited by the prospect. “It won’t be heated but we will be able to grow vines, peaches, melons …” The public can meet the gardeners on the second Saturday of each month to find out about soil preparation, plant propagation, crop growing, herbaceous plants and much more. “Some of the children who visit the garden don’t even realise that Brussels sprouts grow on a stalk, or that carrots grow in the ground,” says Meda, who studied at the National Botanic Gardens. “So the garden is as much about education as it is about pleasure.” phoenixpark.ie/visitorinformation/ victorianwalledkitchengarden

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people

Frank McMahon

District Conservation Officer National Parks and Wildlife Service, Killarney National Park, Co Kerry “From seals and landowners worried about damage caused by deer, to hen harriers and trying to control the spread of rhododendron, I have to deal with anything,” says Frank McMahon. “As with all jobs there are days when things don’t go your way but the satisfaction of working in the great outdoors with nature outweighs them all.” Frank manages nine conservation rangers and advises on a wide variety of conservation issues – protecting habitat and species, survey work and enforcing wildlife legislation. The Killarney park is designated under the EU Birds and Habitats Directive as both a Special Area of Conservation (habitats and species) and a Special Protection Area (bird life); it is one of UNESCO’s 127 Biosphere Reserves that combine nature conservation and sustainable development. Not only does the park now boast Ireland’s first native-born white-tailed sea eagles, it has an incredibly diverse countryside – wild mountains, lakes teeming with fish and ancient woodland that is a haven for red squirrel, badger, pine marten, stoat, sika deer and the long-eared owl. Visitors also flock to see Muckross House and Gardens (a lakeside Victorian mansion that also has three traditional working farms linked by a free coach service), Torc Waterfall, Ross Castle, Muckross Abbey and Innisfallen. “There are challenges managing such large numbers as we have to balance providing top-class facilities while ensuring habitats and species are not negatively impacted upon.” killarneynationalpark.ie

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people

Denis Strong

Deputy Regional Manager, National Parks & Wildlife Service Denis shakes his head and peers at the spreadsheet on the desk in front of him. “That’s the problem with being in management,” he jokes. “But I can see the real reason I do this job through my office window: Slievemore Mountain is rising over Achill Island. It’s a wild and beautiful place.” Ballycroy National Park, 11,000 hectares of Atlantic blanket bog and mountainous terrain tucked away in northwest Mayo, was only established in 1998. And Denis, who started as a ranger in 1990 and is now a deputy regional manager, helped with the land acquisition. Denis is clearly proud of Ballycroy – a Special Area of Conservation (SAC) and Special Protection Area (SPA) – which is a haven for white-fronted geese, golden plover, merlin, otters and many other species. Denis, who is also responsible for Connemara National Park (CNP), has a challenge to attract more people to enjoy the place. “CNP is very well known and last year attracted 160,000 people to the visitor centre but Ballycroy is more remote. Last year, 16,400 people came to our new visitor centre, which is a great start.” They do pond dipping and coastal walks, which are proving very popular. “We have also built paths so families and school children can get an insight into the delicate bog system without causing damage,” he adds. “It’s a balance between encouraging people to discover more about this fascinating place and not interfering with the delicate ecosystems and wildlife.” ballycroynationalpark.ie

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July 2013


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people

Emma Glanville

The Burren National Park is the best example of limestone and karst habitat in Ireland – and the best example of a glacio-karst landscape in the world. Shaped by both glaciers and the effects of rainwater erosion, it is often barren – Burren coming from the Irish word “Boíreaan”, which means “rocky place” – but, during the summer months it thrives with flora and fauna. “I love the summer, when the rich grasslands are full of flowers from all over the world,” says Emma, who has worked in the Burren for twelve years, after having studied Agricultural and Environmental Science. She monitors the protected areas, surveys protected species, liaises with farmers to maintain grazing levels and helps to manage visitor access. The Burren is a wonderful place for tourists but its power to educate is also taken very seriously. “It’s a very important outdoor classroom with environmental, geological, archaeological and cultural importance,” Emma says. “People travel from all over the world to learn in the Burren landscape.” The Burren is a special place to visit all year round, but Emma says the summer is special. “The floral outburst is fantastic,” she explains. “And with the warmer days come the dragonflies, the butterflies, the bumble bees, the brightly coloured moths and the stripy caterpillars; the bats come out of hibernation and feed off the insects. You might catch a glimpse of a stoat or jump out of your skin as a hare dashes from its hiding place.”. burrennationalpark.ie

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July 2013

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City break | dublin

ublin is perfectly small. Despite its city status, it can feel more like a village at times. This has its advantages: it’s easy to navigate, there’s a distinct chance of stumbling upon something interesting and there is a high density of “characters” more than willing to barter in banter. You’d imagine that this gene puddle of city life would have few secrets. But you’d be wrong. For Dublin is constantly changing, evolving, popping up, getting down and any guidebook that purports to know the best the city has to offer is already out of date as soon as it’s published. So what is the best of Dublin at this moment in time? Let’s start with the basics ... In Ulysses, Leopold Bloom mused that “[a] good puzzle would be [to] cross Dublin without passing a pub.” But how to separate the wheat

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from the chaff, or the hops from the hotspots? When imbibing in Dublin, whether it’s to quench a sunkissed thirst or just to tarry for a fragrant hour the new, socially energised Dubliners are frequenting The Hacienda, The Black Sheep and Izakaya. The Hacienda on Little Green Street and beside the fruit and vegetable market in Smithfield, currently one of the most interesting parts of town, is proof that every trend will come around again. Hopelessly stuck in the 1980s, this reprieve from identikit flockedwall bars has an undeniable charm that stems from its unexpected set up as a Spanish country house, stuccoed walls and all. To enter you must ring the doorbell and

Clockwise from top, The Fumbally attracts a creative crowd; Shay from The Hacienda; Michael McDermott and Ciaran Walsh from LeCool reveal the best of the city.

hope that it is open for business. Once safely ensconced inside, marvel at the photos – you mustn’t miss the collection of Matthew McConaughey shots – and wonder how did owner Shay create this Aladdin’s Cave of paraphernalia? From old copper diving helmets to a jukebox that is stuck in 1985, the


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Hacienda oozes kitsch cool. The trend for craft beers and microbreweries is burgeoning in the capital too. People’s palates are becoming finely attuned to headier flavours and drink as a genuine point of conversation is being pioneered by the Galway Bay Brewery with its pubs The Black Sheep on Capel Street, Against The

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July 2013

With a cut-out-and-keep look that could grace the fashion pages of a street-style bible in any world capital, Skelton’s imprint is his own image. His face is on the posters, the stickers, the fliers. He and his crew glitterball a non-descript pub called The Pint into a Paradise Garage for these sometimes shivery, sometimes sultry, summer nights. a period in the late 1940s and was “I want to create an a frequent visitor to the national atmosphere similar to the botanic Gardens (Glasnevin, Dublin heyday of clubs, for all walks 9), where his favourite stoop in one of of life, from all estates, for the hothouses has been engraved all genders and benders,” says with his name. If you are looking Ryan. “It’s all about the mix for mental inspiration, try of people, style, sexuality, age Wittgenstein’s step. and dancing. Let’s bring the good times back!” Meanwhile the good times and Clockwise from top left, on the beats keep spinning with heightened sauce at The Black panache in Izakaya (12/13 South Sheep; Yannick Great George’s Street, Dublin 2, Van Aeken and 01 645 8001; yamamoriizakaya.ie), Louise Bannon at Nede; Avril a late-night haunt in the basement Kirrane of The of Japanese sushi outfit Yamamori. Vintage Kitchen; From the tasteful Oriental allure Brenda Kearney of its decor to its classic cocktail serving up lunch at selection, its seductive entrapment The Fumbally. has resulted in the owners opening Tengu Bar over in their sister restaurant on the quays. The food scene continues to flourish and the hungry visitor has a host of exciting, top-notch eateries to select from. The stars of the scene in the last 12 months; 777, Fade Street Social, Damson Diner, The Fumbally and Las Tapas de Lola have been joined by a more eclectic array of competitors. The Vintage

Grain on Camden Street and The Brew Dock on Amiens Street. In April, Ryan Skelton laid the foundations for what has become the club du jour. Together Disco (28 Eden Quay, Dublin 1) is a paean to New York SteP On disco and the unfiltered joys of wanting to Philosopher Ludwig dance all night long. Wittgenstein lived in Dublin for


Stay at ...

Left, Katie Sanderson from Living Dinners; below, relaxing at Kelly’s Hotel.

Kitchen (7 Poolbeg Street, Dublin 2, 01 679 8705; thevintagekitchen.ie) is currently unbeatable in the food and value stakes. With two courses for €25 and a no corkage BYOW (Bring Your Own Wine) policy as well as a BYOV (Bring Your Own Vinyl) if you’re that way inclined, it’s little surprise that advance bookings are now needed. The venerable restaurant that was Eden has flipped its name and relaunched as Nede (Meeting House Square, Temple Bar; nede. ie). Partners Louise Bannon and Yannick Van Aeken bring a wealth of experience, most notably gleaned from long stints in Noma in Copenhagen, to this new venture. The menus reflect both seasonal availability and their local foraging instincts. “Nede’s concept will be using local Irish products and will

reflect the flavours and produce of the countryside, farms and seas of Ireland,” explains Louise. “The best seaweed we tasted is in the west, in Spiddal, and we will drive out there to get it.” Katie Sanderson’s Living Dinners (087 387 4028; lovelivingdinners. com) is the stone-cold, raw food pop-up to which everyone is trying to get a ticket. Born in Hong Kong and having worked in kitchens in various capacities for a number of years, Katie sharpened her healthy food skills in Oklahoma and Santa Monica last year before returning to Dublin. Having hosted a number of these in the elegantly-dilapidated Georgian splendour of No. 31, Henrietta Street, Katie is intending to go elsewhere in the city with the likes of the National Botanic Gardens on her wish list. “For lots of

CUTTING EDGE Delayed by the economic wibbly-wobblys, The Marker Hotel (Grand Canal Square, Docklands, Dublin 2, 01 687 5100; themarkerhoteldublin.com) is now open for business and boasts spectacular city views from its rooftop. This chequerboard, five-star hotel, designed by Portuguese architect Manuel Aires Mateus, is chic, sophisticated and superbly located. Rooms from €149. BOUTIQUE Smack bang in the centre of the action, the boutique Kelly’s Hotel (35-37 South Great George’s Street, Dublin 2, 01 648 0010; kellysdublin.com) nails location. With its accompanying No Name Bar and the culinary staple that is l’Gueuleton, finding reason to take in the air outside might be your biggest challenge. Rooms from €79. OLD SCHOOL In a slightly grittier part of the city, The Townhouse (47-48 Lower Gardiner Street, Dublin 1, 01 878 8808; townhouseofdublin. com) is a strikingly affordable upbeat alternative. In situ since 1978, it has been something of a best-kept secret until recently. Rooms from €68. BUDGET Astutely spotting a gap in the market for a hostel with visual appeal and attitude, The Generator Hostel (Smithfield Square, Dublin 7, 01 901 0222; generatorhostels.com) is adding some much-needed energy to this public square, formerly an open market. There is also the occasional weekend late-nighter when the local club kids come home to play. Beds from €9 per night.

July 2013

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City break | dublin

Don’t miss ... Who cares about leopard-print pillbox hats when you can go to the tropical Popical nail bar (28 South William Street, Dublin 2, 01 675 3569; tropicalpopical.com) and get a saucy leopard-print manicure? Sip on your Lilt in a hollowed-out pineapple, relax and enjoy your lunch-hour holiday. They said it could never be done. They said that the rains would come. But the people at Open air Cinema did it (086 823 5883; happenings.ie). Somehow, Mother Nature gives the precipitation a rest every now and then, and Fitzwilliam Square becomes an outdoor cinema. What better way to celebrate nature in the city? urban Farm (26 King’s Inns Street, Dublin 1, 086 196 8720; www.urbanfarm. ie) atop The Chocolate Factory is aiming to be the first of its kind in Dublin. Live hens, more than 200 types of potato and a focus on intensive urban growing techniques make this Ireland’s highest, and strangest, farm. Underneath this horticultural haven, various artists and musicians enjoy studio space.

Clockwise from right; photogenic, Ángel Luis González Fernández; Andrea Horan, the dynamo behind Tropical Popical; Grogan’s Castle Lounge on South William Street, a popular haunt for thirsty creatives.

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July 2013

people it’s scary having no diary but word of mouth diar has really helped. It’s also ha important that we’ve been im documenting the nights do so people can visualise what’s on offer and the wh atmosphere,” she says. at When you are sufficiently fed and su watered, it’s time to wa nourish the soul. Here’s nou where Dublin’s culture wh scene comes in and July serves up three slightly off-radar festivals. As photography fast becomes our favourite form of personal expression, the professionals are allowed to take over during the PhotoIreland Fair (photoireland. org), which returns for its fourth year. This celebration of life through the lens is run by Ángel Luis

González Fernández, a Spaniard who calls Dublin home. The focus here is on both Irish and international photography and it plays off the success of Dublin’s Gallery of Photography and Photographic Archive (who face each other across Meeting House Square in Temple Bar) while also tapping into the success of the MFA in Photography course in Belfast. Ireland may be positioning itself as Europe’s tech hub, but it is producing photographic work that can hold its head up worldwide. “We are working on a ten-year plan,” says Ángel. “Our goal is to make people see photography in a different way.” One highlight of PhotoIreland, which also takes place in Cork and Limerick, will be the return of the Book and Magazine Fair (July 11-14). While


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the Book of Kells, Marsh’s Library and Chester Beatty Library enjoy (deserved) fame among bibliophiles worldwide, here you can browse over 700, modern, full-colour titles from around the world, without the dustiness of leather-bound, historical volumes. Beyond the zine scene, the 10 Days in Dublin arts festival (July 4-13; 10daysindublin.ie) has a catch-all quality that is both endearing and entertaining. Billed as Ireland’s only open-format festival, it welcomes an unlimited range of acts; a heady hotch-potch of drama, comedy, fringe and art. Having made the transition to Hanover Quay last year, the Kings of Concrete

festival is back (July 26-28; kingsofconcrete.com) celebrating urban sub cultures like skateboarding, street art and Parkour as well photography, film-making, music and more. Their year-round space, Mabos, is frequently used for exhibitions, workshops, oneoff showcase gigs and parties, they even host a table-tennis club. And its advance monthly membership and BYOB policy allows revellers to push the clocks forward on a weekend night. For those interested in shopping, Dublin’s offering has strengthened recently. For the men, there really is only one destination – Indigo & Cloth (9 Essex Street East, Temple Bar, 01 670 6403; indigoandcloth.com). Recently indigoa relocated from its blink-andreloca you’ll-miss-it basement on South you’ William Street, this store, which Will specialises in exclusive menswear, spec has now opened in Temple Bar. In a sign of the new, fearless Dublin, Indigo & Cloth now Du

This page, ab above, music on Coppinger Row; Co left, exclusive lines at Indigo & Cloth; below, Mabos’ Dave Smith; Opposite page, Op Meeting House Me Square, home to the Gallery of Photography and Nede. restaurant.

among the younger CITY BIKES While fix-gear bikes are de rigueur sport playing cards in Dublin set, watch out for bike messengers who out as champions the spokes of their wheels. This card marks them the city annually. of the underground city races that take place in July 2013

| 57


also houses a fully functional creative studio and coffee shop. In their spare time, owner Garrett Pitcher and creative director Keith Nally also have a hand in a fashion free-sheet called Thread magazine; if you are in a place that stocks it, you can be sure that you are no more than three metres away from a local hipster. For women, the rise of the pop-up boutique satisfies the urge for unique clothing that the high street cannot provide. The best examples being The Loft Market (Powerscourt Shopping Centre; theloftmarket.com) and Tamp & Stitch (Scarlet Row, Essex Street West, Temple Bar, 01 515 4705), which also hosts food nights, but for a unique experience, it must be the Ferocious Mingle Marcade (72 Thomas Street, Dublin 8). The brainchild of the Edwardian-

ILLusTraTIon by FushIa macaree

City break | dublin

attired Eamonn A Mooney and jewellery designer and artist Rainey J Dillon, the marcade will lock you in its sparkly jaws and not let go. Not that you’d want it to. Imagine a Victorian revue with great coffee, and you’re halfway to imagining the

Above left, Josie Baggley Company’s Rainey J Dillon and Eamonn A Mooney at their weird and wonderful Ferocious Mingle Marcade; below, hip womenswear emporium Tamp & Stitch.

madness that awaits. “I’m addicted to Victoriana and Edwardian style. It’s all about atmosphere in our eclectic bazaar,” gushes Eamonn. The stalls bring a flavour of the souk to Dublin’s heartland, offering everything from vintage threads to pies. There are few other places where you can stock up on vinyl and then get a reading from a psychic. In all, Dublin is closing in on Berlin’s reputation for Euro-cool. There is a swirling, creative frisson that is inspiring the new cultural agenda and reshaping the landscape. On the surface, Dublin still enjoys a reputation where fun and people drive the experience but scratch under that, even just a little, and live like a local to check the pulse of an alive and amplified place. It may be small but you can still have a capital time. LeCool is a free weekly magazine featuring a selection of cultural events and activities. It is distributed as a graphic e-mail every Thursday around noon; dublin.lecool.com

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July 2013


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seekers LE ChiC

Where do Parisians track down their chic little bargains? In vintage boutiques, that’s where. Amanda Cochrane goes on a vintage shopping tour and bags some Gallic style for herself. Photographs by Ailbhe O’Donnell.


This page, the eclectic interior at Chine Machine; left, sitting pretty – the effortlessly cool Parisienne.


Shopping | pariS

Clockwise from far left, iconic Parisian signage; Amanda Cochrane in vintage heaven; By Flowers owner Paul Cohen; window shopping à la Française.

love Father Ted. I love I’m with the very charming Ireland,” says Paul fashionista and designer Brune Cohen, the jovial Colnat-Derhy of Localers (localers. owner of By Flowers com), a specialist tour company that in Montmartre, organises bespoke guides of Paris. when he discovers I’m in Paris For €69 per person for a group to do some vintage shopping. of four, Brune will give me a on tour “You must let me give you three-hour, personal vintage Whatever your passion – a dress. Please, have a shopping tour and help food, wine, fashion – Localers look around and choose me to discover la vrai offers the inside track to Paris. We something you’d like.” Montmartre. love the idea of a walking tour led by It’s a tiny little shop a photographer. For €79pp for four but stuffed full with (which includes a coffee at the start rail upon rail of floral and a cheeky drink at the end), you vintage dresses – each get an alternative view of the city one only €15 – and – and pics to remember it piles of denim shirts, an by; localers.com assortment of jackets and funky handbags and belts. But, ever the interiors junkie, the first thing I spot is an old, Murano glass, pink and white vase lurking on top of a pile of old leather suitcases. “Everything is for sale,” Paul says with a grin. “You can have it for €10.” I examine it closely. It’s a real beauty but too heavy to carry home so, reluctantly, I put it back and delve into the racks of floral frocks. I find a green, white and blue 1950s number with that certain je ne sais quoi. I hold it up, give a little twirl, and imagine it cinched at the waist with a big brown leather belt. “It looks magnifique,” Paul purrs. “It’s a present from Paris.” Vintage shopping in Paris can be a wild goose chase but, after just half an hour, I’ve uncovered a gem. It’s not down to pure chance.

I

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A true local, Brune lives in Montmartre and loves the area. Until recently she co-owned a boutique with a friend, which today is one of the district’s many vintage stores. “It’s a pity,” she says, “but we couldn’t make it work.” Brune, who studied sculpture at Glasgow and later attended the Parisian fashion


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Shopping | pariS

Insider’s guide to Paris

with Carra Sutherland Olagnon of CSO Conseil Irishwoman Carra Sutherland Olagnon has been living in Paris for more than 20 years. Formerly the head of international press for Ungaro, five years ago she set up CSO Conseil, which looks after a diverse range of clients from Chic Outlet Shopping, ranging from discount shopping outlets La Vallée and Kildare Village, to Trudie Styler and Scabal Savile House. She says she inherited her love of fashion from her father, who “would only ever wear Savile Row shirts”. “I am a regular (at least once a week!) at Ma Cocotte restaurant (106 Rue des Rosiers, +33 1 4951 7000; macocotte-lespuces.com) in the St Ouen flea market. Recently opened and designed by Philippe Starck, you feel as if you are in the Meatpacking District in New York. It has a great atmosphere and trendy

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crowd (Tom Ford was spotted there a few weeks ago) with delicious food, wonderful service and huge terraces – so great when the sun is shining. “My favourite Parisian shopping area is La Vallée Village, just 30 minutes from central Paris. They’ve got over 120 international fashion brands, selling last season’s pieces at amazing prices in a village atmosphere. It is the best place to find timeless pieces, such as a beautiful Burberry trench, a handbag from Celine, the perfect dress at Valentino, killer heels from Jimmy Choo and even fragrances from the famous French parfumeur Annick Goutal (my fave is Eau d’Hadrien). There’s something for everyone; my husband is hooked, too, as are my stepkids and I buy all my son’s clothes there. “I am a huge fan of

pachaMara accessories, which are sold in a very cool concept store on rue Bonaparte called The Space. France Maze, the designer of PachaMara, is a personal friend, and her belts are to die for. I often go directly to the PachaMara showroom in Neuilly-sur-Seine as well, to pick up some of the fabulous boho chic bracelets and necklaces. My favourite spot for vintage shopping is Didier Ludot in the Jardin du Palais Royal. It’s pretty amazing. You’ll find some fabulous vintage couture such as Balmain, and Givenchy pieces and the setting is divine.”

school ESMOD, speaks excellent English. She has been working with Localers for nearly a year and clearly enjoys her job. “I’m usually asked to do more straightforward fashion tours,” she says, “but I love vintage shopping and this is a real treat for me.” Walking around Montmartre with Brune is an eye-opener, as she knows the area and the locals intimately. We bump into TraVEL Tip an old acquaintance, the A carnet of ten tickets charming opera singer and for €13.30, available at metro comedian Fleur Mino, stations and tobacconists, is who is perfectly dressed valid on the metro, RER, bus and head to toe in vintage and tram within central Paris and is a happily poses for a quick simpler and more economical snap. way to get around than Back in By Flowers we buying individual tickets are in the mood for a spree at €1.70 a pop. and start digging through the huge selection of floral dresses. Paul opened his shop seven years ago. “I love it,” he says with a grin. “I travel all over from the US to Austria and Belgium looking for stuff from the 1940s, 1950s, 1960s and 1970s.” He has a discerning eye and is quick to spot Brune’s outfit, a funky, blue and green number and one of her own designs from unairdebrune.com. He’s interested in stocking her range and asks Above right, flirty frocks at Didier for her card. A dress apiece for Ludot. Left, photographer Ailbhe, Brune and bonnes amies, I, we all leave the shop feeling performing artist pretty chipper. Fleur Mino and The next two hours are spent Localers tour guide, Brune in a whirlwind, from the stinky Colnat-Derhy. basement of La Caverne à Frippes,


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Shopping | pariS

where I find myself humming the opening bars to The Thrift Shop song, to the secondhand designer clothes by brands such as APC and Paul & Joe in La Boutique Noire. On to Chine Machine. Brune shakes her head looking doubtful. “This shop is pretty touristy,” she says. “Oh let’s have a quick gander,” I say, and ten minutes later I see Brune smiling. “These would cost €400 new,” she says and is soon the happy owner of a pair of red Repetto sandals in mint condition. I stop taking notes and start rifling for bargains in earnest. I try on a black and white dress, which has great hanger appeal but once on looks truly hideous. Unperturbed, I keep poking around and find a green, sleeveless cardigan for €5. It’s very pretty and will look fabulous with my new floral dress. For my vintage-loving daughter Florence

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Left, a typical Parisian terrace. Right, pretty silk slips at Au Fil d'Elise. Below, nouveau Modernism at Hotel Thérèse.

Fashion-friendly places to stay in Paris BUDgET If you’re looking for a stay that’s cheap, cheerful and chic, check out La Maisonette in the 10th Arrondissement. A former leather workshop in the courtyard of an old convent, it has been polished into a little jewel of a spot. Plus it's close to the fashion folks’ haunts – a short walk from the ateliers of the big fashion houses, and just round the corner from Cour et Passage des Petites Ecuries where everyone goes for a post-work aperitif. Room from €100 per night, holidaylettings.co.uk. holidaylettings.co.uk A beret’s throw from the Louvre and Le Palais Royal, hotel Thérèse (5/7, Rue Thérèse, +331 4296 1001; hoteltherese.com hoteltherese.com) couldn’t be better located. Its comfortable, high quality interiors throw a nod to Modernism, and there’s free Wi-Fi. Rooms from €124 per night.

MiD-rangE The latest offering of Hôtels Paris Rive Gauche, the four-star La Belle Juliette (92 Rue du Cherche Midi, +331 4222 9740; hotelbelle-juliette-paris.com) is just a skip away from Le Bon Marché and the excellent shopping and eateries of St Germain. Discreet, charming and a fiveminute walk from the Jardin du Luxembourg – a great spot for a summer picnic. Rooms from €190 per night and there is even a mini swimming pool and spa in the basement. Often compared to NYC’s West Village, the Marais is chock-full of hip bars, restaurants, boutiques and cafés. Le Mareuil (51 Rue de Malte, +331 4700 7876, hotelmareuil.com) is at its heart, a four-star boutique hotel that’s contemporary in design and resplendent with a hammam. Rooms from €159 per night.

SpLUrgE For excellent views of the Eiffel Tower, and a stroll away from the luxury boutiques of Avenue Montaigne and Avenue George V, head to the five-star Shangri-la (10 Avenue d’léna, +331 5367 1998; shangri-la.com). The former home of Napoleon Bonaparte’s nephew, it combines old-world charm with modern comfort. Make time for a cocktail in the cosy Le Bar or overindulge in the Michelin-starred Shang Palace. From €810 per night for the Summer in Paris offer which includes an amazing breakfast. Palatial hotel Scribe (1 Rue Scribe, +331 4471 2424; hotel-scribe.com) is the former home of the aristocratic jockey club, where the Lumière brothers world-premiered the cinematograph. It now has a Michelin-starred restaurant, Le Lumière. Rooms from €414 per night.


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I pounce on a pair of electric blue Converse booties – almost brand new they’re a snip at just €10. We ask the louche-looking shop assistant, who’s sporting the most fabulous pout, if we can take some pictures. “Oh sure, take some shots of the shop, but you can’t take my photo,” says the assistant with a dismissive toss of hair. Whatever, darling. A couple of hours later Brune has to head off – albeit reluctantly – as she’s up for more bargain hunting and would have happily shown

us more places. She suggests a half dozen more shops in the area for us to check out, including Foxden, Paul’s second shop, which opened a couple of weeks ago. We wander around this cool area bursting with fantastic stores and unusual boutiques, including Paperdolls, owned by Englishwoman Candy Miller. A really lovely atelier, selling

Vintage shops by arrondissement 1st arrondissement didier Ludot, 24 Galerie Montpensier – Jardin du Palais Royal, +33 1 4296 0656; didierludot.fr Wild road, 2 Rue Francisque, Sarcey, +33 7 8551 4239 2nd arrondissement episode, nearest metro Etienne Marcel, 12-16, Rue de Tiquetonne, +331 4261 1465; episode.eu espace Kiliwatch, 64 Rue Tiquetonne, +33 1 4221 1737; espacekiliwatch.fr 3rd arrondissement Losing today, 14 Rue de Bretagne, +33 1 4461 7971 mon amour, nearest metro Filles du Calvaire/République, 77 Rue Charlot, +33 6 8419 3509; monamourvintage. blogspot.com 4th arrondissement au fil d'Élise, closest metro St Paul, 2 Rue de L'Avé Maria, 33 1 4804 7561; aufildelise.com Free‘p’star, nearest metro Saint Paul/ Hotel de Ville, 8 Rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie; +33 1 4276 0372 Frip’irium, nearest metro Saint Paul, Rue de la Verrerie, +33 1 4029 9557 hippy market, nearest metro Hotel de Ville, 21 Rue de Temple (they also own Kiliwatch in the 2nd and another Hippy Market in the 1st), + 33 1 6224 6909; hippy-market.fr La Friponne, nearest metro Sully/Morland, 10 Rue de Saint Paul, +33 1 4271 5016; lafriponne.com mamz’elle swing, 35 Rue du Roi de Sicile, +33 1 4887 0406; mamzelle-swing.com

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Vintage desire,, nearest metro Saint Paul, 32 Rue de Rosiers, +33 1 4027 0498 9th arrondissement mamie Blue,, nearest metro Anvers, 69 Rue Rochechouart, +33 1 4281 1042; mamievintage.com (closed Sundays, Monday morning and lunchtimes) 10th arrondissement thanx god i’m a Vip, nearest metro Jacques Bonsergent, 12 Rue de Lancry, + 331 4203 0209; thanxgod.com Frivoli, nearest metro Jacques Bonsergent, 26 Rue Beaurepaire, +33 1 4238 2120 atelier 46, nearest metro Jacques Bonsergent/Chateau d’Eau, Rue de Chateau d’Eau, + 33 1 4040 0203 11th arrondissement omaya Vintage, nearest metro Oberkamps, 29 Rue Jean- Pierre Timbaud, +33 1 4201 7731; omaya-vintage.com Come on eileen, nearest metro Breguet/Sabin/Bastille, 216-218 Rue des Taillandiers, +33 1 4338 1211 17th arrondissement guerrisol, nearest Metro Place de Clichy, 19 Avenue de Clichy, +33 1 4008 0300; guerrisol.com 18th arrondissement By Flowers, nearest metro Abbesses/ Anvers, 86 Rue des Martyrs, +33 1 4252 2366 Caverne à Fripes, closest metro Pigalle, 25 Rue Houdon, +33 1 4252 6165

Clockwise from top, bygone brights in Thanx God I'm a VIP; Mamie Blue's Elisabeth Valette; Gatsby glamour at Didier Ludot.

Chine machine, nearest metro Abbesses/ Anvers, 100 Rue des Martyrs, +33 1 8050 2766; chinemachinevintage.com Foxden, nearest metro Barbes/Anvers, 5 Rue Pierre Picard, +33 6 5241 1118; foxdenblog.tumblr.com La Billes des gamine, closest metro Abbesses, 60 Rue d'Orsel, +33 6 8320 3775; labillesdelagamine.com La Boutique noire, closest metro Abbesses, 22 Rue la Vieuville, +33 9 5320 4617 paperdolls, closest metro Pigalle, 5 Rue de Houdon, +33 1 4251 2987; paperdolls.fr 19th arrondissement Bric-à-brac emmaüs, nearest metro Riquet/Crimée, 104 Rue D’Aubervilliers 20th arrondissement goldymama, nearest metro Pelleport, 14 Rue de Surmelin, +33 1 4030 0800; goldymama.com


Rest your wheels – and legs – outside the Louvre, a fantastic spot for street style watching.

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Shopping | pariS

up-and-coming young designers with prices starting at €40 and going up to €300, it’s affordable and fun and designed to feel like a home from home. “I’m aiming for a deliberate sense of folie and quirkiness,” says Candy, who moved to Paris to do a work placement and never left. Heading back towards Pigalle metro, we discover La Billes de Gamine, a super chic establishment where we find the most gorgeous pair of green pumps by Celine, as well as cool 1950s furniture and stunning clothing by a range of high-end designers including Hermès, Dior and Chanel. “I don’t have a lot,” says owner Cécile Mossard in slightly halting English, “but what I have is in good condition.”

Saturated with the delights of Montmartre, Ailbhe and I decide to head to the Marais in the fourth arrondissement. I have spent a couple of days Googling and have an exhaustive list of shops to check out. Standing in the confusing and narrow streets of the Jewish quarter we consult our Paris guide, wishing we had Brune in tow. After two frustrating hours we discover two shops on my list have closed down, but then spot Mamz’elle Swing – sporting a beautiful, blush pink prom dress in the window – and it’s a goody. The friendly owner, Bérénice, specialises in clothing, shoes and dinky handbags from her favourite eras of the 1930s, 1940s and 1950s. “I love swing and rock

Beyond vintage … I stumbled across department store BhV (52 Rue de Rivoli; bhv.fr) a couple of months ago while strolling around the Marais. On first appearances it looks a little scruffy but don’t be put off, because once inside you’ll find the latest designs by leading French brands, including Maje and Claudie Pierlot, and sometimes a great design for a fraction of the price of other department stores. A sucker for French chic and always keen to find a bargain, I often head to the Sandro discount store in the Marais (26 Rue de Sévigné; sandro-paris.com). Nearby, in the third arrondissement, I’m mad about the concept store Merci (111 Boulevard Beaumarchais; merci-merci.com) which is housed in an elaborately reconfigured, 19th-century fabric factory. On three floors, it’s beautifully designed and you’ll find gorgeous interiors, including the most amazing range of linens in a rainbow of colours, designer furniture, funky lighting, gorgeous clothing and lots of great gift ideas. However, for me a trip to Paris is not complete without a wander around Le Bon Marché (24 Rue de Sèvres; lebonmarche.com) where the exquisite layout ensures that everything feels simply desirable. There’s a huge floor of handbags in all shapes, sizes and budgets – bliss – and acres of accessories such as glorious hats for doffing or yards of scarves all destined to be flung around the neck with a Gallic shrug.

Left, a blush pink prom dress takes centre stage at Mamz'elle Swing. Right, a handsome vintage car awaiting its suitably fashionable driver in the 11th arrondisement. Below, girl – et chien – on a motorcycle, Alyx Lottin with Chica.

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Shopping | pariS

Top, Hippy Market's manager, PiPaul. Middle, Parisian bikes at rest. Bottom, Marie Cazenave at Le Boudoir Marie.

and roll,” she says with a swish of her hips. We ask to take her photo but she shakes her head. “Mais non. Je suis desolée. Not today, I don’t look good.” Dressed in a natty gingham headscarf, a red, shortsleeve angora sweater, blue A-line skirt and seamed stockings, frankly she looks incroyable and the shop is a gem. Around the corner we arrive at Come On Eileen, which looks scruffy but interesting. It has two floors of rather groovy-looking gear (including lots of fun jewellery and shoes) from what we assume dates back to the 1960s and 1970s but, annoyingly, we can’t dig any further because it’s closed. Hey ho, another day, another bargain, and we move on to the colourful-looking Hippy Market (they also own Espace Kiliwatch in the second arrondissement). It’s a stylish and fun shopping environment and the staff is really friendly, but it’s rammed full of tourists and is priced accordingly. 72 |

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Our final stop of the day is Vintage Desire, a bit whiffy (a downside of some vintage shops) but if you’re feeling brave, it has rock-bottom prices, including dungaree denim shorts for under €10 (similar dungaree shorts cost €39 in Hippy Market). My daughter, who loves to trawl the Portobello Road for pungent vintage bargains (the rule is everything has to go in the wash before it reaches her room), would have a field day. There are more vintage spots in Paris than the most avid shopper can plunder in a day (maybe even a week). I never did make it to Didier Ludot, the famous couture vintage shop in the first arrondissement. But I have my floral frock, I have a pair of Converse for my fashion-mad daughter. And I have a shopping list for my next trip. aEr LingUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN AND CORK TO pariS DAILY.


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A sure bet

Sin City certainly deserves its ranking as one of the world’s top ten honeymoon destinations, writes Tony Clayton-Lea. But whether you’re newly-weds or just there as tourists, you’ll be royally entertained, day and night.

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xxx

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culture | las vegas

y husband always promised to take me to Paris ... and he did, it being a ten-minute walk from the Venetian Hotel, complete with its own Eiffel tower!” laughs Colette Cassidy, owner of Dublin’s Glow make-up and beauty salon, as she fondly remembers the Las Vegas leg of her American honeymoon in February. “We also had a lovely dinner in Prime restaurant in the Bellagio, where we had a perfect view of the spectacular water show. And the Cirque du Soleil production, O, was incredible. On the strip the atmosphere was buzzing and just like how I imagined Vegas to be, only bigger and brighter. People either love or hate Vegas but I am glad to say we loved it.” Another reassuring aspect of the city for honeymooners, as well as its diversity of entertainment, is the special treatment afforded to

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newly-weds, says Colette: “Prime gave us a window seat as they knew we were on our honeymoon. Great service, and at the Venetian too.” Both points are echoed by Ashli Kimenker, public relations manager at Las Vegas’s terrifically swish Mandarin Oriental, who reckons that the increase in the number of honeymooners coming to the city is due to hotels tailoring services to suit them. “It’s partly due to the global recession,” she says, “but it’s also partly due to the fact that honeymooners justifiably want more than what Las Vegas, stereotypically, has to offer. It’s quite obvious from our own statistics that our guests want more in the line of spa comforts

Clockwise from above, earthly delights on The Strip; the Sphinx guards Luxor Las Vegas; taking a chance with Lady Luck; writer, Tony Clayton-Lea.


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Wedding Venues – from the Good to the Odd Do you promise never to step on your man’s blue suede shoes? Do you vow not to leave your woman at Heartbreak Hotel? If the answer to these questions is a heartfelt “I do”, then a visit to the Graceland Wedding Chapel (gracelandchapel.com) is a must. Famous as the venue for Elvis Presley’s wedding to Priscilla, this wonderful little chapel is owned by American Irishman Brendan Duffy (who is also the chapel’s resident Elvis impersonator). Another kitsch hitching post is the Viva Las Vegas Wedding Chapel (vivalasvegasweddings.com), a nine times winner of Nevada Magazine’s Best Wedding Chapel in Southern Nevada award. Here, you can theme your wedding (from pirates and vampires to more than twelve different Elvis themes) in an on-site theatre-style venue, diner or gazebo. If you’re searching for something that little bit higher in tone, then exchange your vows in Chapel in the Clouds (chapelintheclouds.com), which is based at the aptly named Stratosphere Hotel that towers over the Strip. Weddings on the hotel’s Observation Decks (floors 108 and 109) a specialty!

and food. If they want to play the tables, there are enough outside the hotel, on the Strip, to satisfy their curiosity.” Honeymooning in Vegas can be segmented into city and rural. Pretty much every hotel in the city offers exclusive honeymoon/bridal suites, justifying its ranking among the top ten honeymoon destinations in the world. And don’t think it’s out of your financial bracket – thanks to the masses of money spent by gamblers, the city’s room rates and food prices (notably mid-week) are kept relatively low in relation to the high quality accommodation and dining. The real surprise, however, is the discovery of beautiful remoteness from 24 kilometres outside the urban boundaries. One option that most honeymooners take is to divide their days between what the city has to offer (hustle, bustle, noise, parties, casinos and bars) and what the land 78 |

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beyond it can provide. Certainly, if you’re looking for post-wedding diversions, you’ll find them on the Strip – nearly seven kilometres of Las Vegas Boulevard South, which hosts some of the largest casino and resort-hotel properties in the world. Indeed, 15 of the world’s 25 largest hotels by room count are here, so don’t be shy to bring some friends along with you. It is on the Strip that you will encounter hotels as impressive (as much in size as style) as the Bellagio, The Venetian/ The Palazzo, The Aria, Mandarin Oriental and Mandalay Bay; it is also on the Strip that you will see mini, yet incredibly accurate, versions of the New York skyline, the Eiffel Tower, the Pyramids and Venice (The Venetian/The Palazzo even has its own canals, gondolas and singing gondoliers). You will also see real-life, freshly minted

Left, it's now or never – IrishAmerican owner of Graceland Wedding Chapel, Brendan Duffy; Venice, but not as we know it, at The Venetian.

brides strolling past you, linking arms with their new husbands, and trailed by wedding guests bug-eyed at the sights surrounding them. And there really are sights (surreal, goofy, astonishing) for sore eyes here. Honeymooning in Vegas means that as much as being a loved-up Mr & Mrs couple, you’ll also be tourists. There is, inevitably, too much to do in too little time, so you’ll quickly make up your mind


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culture | las vegas

as to whether the casinos are worth (delete where applicable) spending/ wasting hours/money in. On the one hand, you will never before have seen casinos of such magnitude and scope; on the other, you might also witness people at any amount of gambling tables or gaming machines who really should have gone home days ago. The heart of contemporary Las Vegas lies not only in its exceptionally vibrant nightlife, but also in its food scene, and each is a win-win situation. Every hotel/resort complex has its own theatre and nightlife events, while the range of blend of Las Vegas hipness with restaurants is little short of stunning. New Orleans magic, courtesy Indeed, some of the world’s it's of chef Emeril Lagasse. Blue best chefs have a presence shOwtiMe! Ribbon Sushi Bar & Grill here: Gordon Ramsay, One of the most enjoyable at The Cosmopolitan Nobu Matsuhisa, Joel aspects of a stay in Vegas is the Resort Hotel Robuchon, Jean-Georges opportunity to take in a show and (cosmopolitanlasvegas.com) Vongerichten, Pierre experience world class entertainers, is an award-winning and Gagnaire and Emeril musicians, magicians and performers. wonderful sushi/sashimi Lagasse don’t so much From jamming with rock group, Yes; castle, overseen by sibling have the food scene to experiencing the inimitable Blue chefs/restaurateurs Eric wrapped up as prepared, Man group, there is something and Bruce Bromberg. cooked, served, eaten, to suit all tastes. For more cleaned and stored away. info, see lasvegas.com Best restaurant tips are dangerously subjective, but we guarantee you’ll love the following: a perfect choice for a set-you-up breakfast, Citizens Kitchen at Mandalay Bay Resort Don’t be scared into thinking you Hotel (mandalaybay.com), is a very Above, night recently remodelled eatery featuring can’t afford it – as mentioned, midvisions at the chef Brian Massie’s American week hotel room prices in Las Vegas Mandarin Oriental; comfort food at its best. Table 10 are surprisingly affordable. If you’re below, Jean at The Venetian/The Palazzo (www. planning on staying a few nights, Georges Steak venetian.com) delivers a gorgeous take our advice and check out the House.

Jean Georges Steak House at Aria Resort Hotel (arialasvegas.com) features a menu overseen/guided by Jean-Georges Vongerichten. There are beautiful interiors here, as well as mouth-watering steaks (served on wobbly plates that resemble molten lava!). A final recommendation is Twist at the Mandarin Oriental Resort Hotel (mandarinoriental.com/ lasvegas), which is overseen by threestar Michelin Chef Pierre Gagnaire.

Best Honeymoon Hotels

following, each of which are smackbang in the centre, and are the kind of incredible, stupendous and awe-inspiring properties you thought only existed in the movies. Mandarin Oriental las vegas This sleek, beautifully designed hotel has all bases covered with a range of budgetary options, from lavish to intimate. Rooms from $195. (mandarinoriental.com/lasvegas) the venetian/the Palazzo There is, inevitably, an Italian bias here, which means you can get married by the Palazzo Waterfall, on the Bridge of Love (aka Bridge of

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Sighs) or have exclusive use of the hotel’s signature white wedding gondola. Rooms from $149. (www.venetian.com) Mandalay Bay Wedding services here have picked up numerous awards from the likes of Las Vegas Brides magazine, but it’s also a honeymoon hotspot thanks to an 11-acre man-made beach, private cabanas and beach bungalows for rent, and a luxurious spa. Rooms from $71. (mandalaybay.com) aria resort The Wedding Chapel at this luxurious resort hotel has recently opened, but honeymooners with a penchant for smart design and style can also feel the benefit of its plush pools, spa and hot tubs, and wide variety of restaurants and nightlife. Rooms from $121. (arialasvegas.com)


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culture | las vegas

Shopping Guide – from Malls to Vintage You’ve come to the right place if you want to shop, shop, shop. The best place on the Strip is Fashion show (thefashionshow.com) a two million (yes, two million!) square foot mall that houses high-end stores (Louis Vuitton, Tiffany & Co, Kenneth Cole), high street brands (Zara, Levi’s), franchise stores (Macy’s, Neiman Marcus) and unique boutiques (Free People). Money no problem? Then flex the card at crystals (crystalsatcitycenter. com), which hosts Louis Vuitton (the largest of its stores in the USA), Jimmy Choo, Prada, Tom Ford and Dolce & Gabbana, to name but several. If you’re a fan of bargains from many high street brand names, there are las vegas Premium Outlets North & south (premiumoutlets. com). Each operates a shuttle service from Las Vegas downtown hotels, and each has bargains galore. Lovers of vintage clothing (and of being asked by friends, “where did you get that?”) are well catered for in las vegas: Fruition las vegas (shop.fruitionlv.com) and Patty’s closet (ilovepattyscloset.com) are two stores that cater for out-of-the-ordinary shoppers; Fruition offers vintage and street wear beloved by pop stars Katy Perry and Kanye West, while Patty’s Closet has six shops across the Las Vegas valley, each of which receives new clothing shipments every week.

There are, needless to say, many, many more restaurants to choose from. Each one brims with class, style and passion; each highlights a facet of Las Vegas that challenges the perception of the city as a place of vulgar, recession-free excess. Frankly, this is the surprise you never thought you’d get here: despite the non-stop parades of bling and neon along the Strip, there is real life and genuine emotion pumping through the veins of Las Vegas. Yet the city’s location also makes it the ideal starting point for seeing true wonders of the natural world – these include the Grand Canyon, Zion National Park (approx 97 kilometres), Lake Mead (approx 48 kilometres), Valley of Fire State Park (approx 89 kilometres) and Red Rock Canyon (approx 32 kilometres). While the Grand Canyon is the absolute must-see on this 82 |

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Right, Grand Canyon, a genuinely awesome spectacle. Below, hanging out at Valley of Fire State Park.


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cULtURE | LAS VEGAS

Aer Lingus & Jetblue

ILLUSTRATIoN BY ChRIS JUDgE

From April, all Aer Lingus flights arriving to and departing from New York’s JFK Airport operate from Terminal 5. While officially referred to as JetBlue’s T5 (Terminal 5), Aer Lingus has its own dedicated area within the terminal, which allows for smooth check-in, baggage handling and seamless connections to destinations within the US and Puerto Rico. With the move to T5, the minimum connection time from European arrivals to connecting JetBlue flights is reduced to just about one hour. Customers travelling to Ireland will experience JetBlue connections as fast as 40 minutes. The award-winning T5 offers great features and amenities amid its 5,110 square metres, including 15 security lanes, gates with seats aplenty, free Wi-Fi, a wide variety of great food and shopping outlets, a large children’s play area, and much more.

list, be aware that it’s about 485 kilometres from the centre. If you have several days pinned down for rest and recreation, then renting a car is a wise option (although if budget is no problem, you can easily get there by chartered helicopter). You might also wish to spend a few nights far away from the bright lights of the Strip. If so, there are all-budget options you can choose via grandcanyonlodges.com. So there you have it: Las Vegas. The Strip. Sin City. One of the world’s top honeymoon destinations. One of the top tourist destinations in the world. Marriage capital of the 84 |

July 2013

world. Entertainment capital of the world. It’s all these and much, much more. You’d be correct in thinking that gambling at the casinos might be risky, but spending honeymoon time here is a safer than safe bet. “I see honeymooning couples at our hotel every day,” says Nathaniel Gray, public relations coordinator at The Venetian/The Palazzo, “and the one thing they say about Las Vegas is that they wish they had more time to spend here. Well, that and more money ...” Final words? Maybe a sign on the Strip says it all: “Veni, Vidi, Whoopee!”

Above, the impressive Hoover Dam and right, Paris (sort of) by night.

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et in the heart of Georgian Dublin, on the west side of historic St Stephen’s Green, award-winning Restaurant FortyOne embodies the best of Modern irish dining. Relish the output from one of the city’s most accomplished chefs in smart, comfortable surroundings, while savouring dishes that showcase world-class, gastronomic flair, combined with a desire to let the best of irish produce – much of which comes from the restaurant’s own organic gardens – shine. A sumptuous treat for visitors to Dublin looking to experience an unforgettable meal in a highly memorable setting.

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RelY On modern saucing techniques to bring a dish together. there are no heavy starch sauces or, for that matter, an over reliance on double cream and fats. Vegetables and fruit juices are produced in our kitchen and grown in our own garden. Using the same principles, i integrate raw vegetables and cooked vegetables in dishes to maximise taste and texture. i want to create an environment which is surprising and inviting, where my food can create dialogue and discussion.”

Restaurant FortyOne Head Chef, Graham Neville.

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41 St. Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2. Open Tuesday to Saturday. For reservations call +353 (0)1 662 0000, www.restaurantfortyone.ie


Catalonia dreaming Mal Rogers finds he doesn’t want to leave the mountains of Catalonia. Photographs by Steve Ryan.

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The Catalan Pyrenees in all their snow-capped, sun-drenched glory.

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t George, patron saint of our nearest neighbours, also showers saintly beneficence on Catalonia, in the north-eastern corner of Spain. From the sculpted ed granite peaks of the Pyrenees to the turquoise waters of the Mediterranean, the third century saint is revered. St George’s Day is duly celebrated, not with the bacchanalian excesses we might associate with many another saint, but in sophisticated, stylish manner. Shops and restaurants are festooned with George-and-Dragons and the day is marked by the buying of books and roses – so strong is the custom that 20 per cent of all book sales in the region take place around April 23; presumably the rose trade thrives too. A saintly tradition to be proud of. More serious partying takes place on the feast of Corpus

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Top, Berga's theatrical La Patum festival. Above, revellers find characterful methods of celebrating.

Christi in the town of Berga, capital of the spectacular region of Berguedà. Most of the year, Berga is a sleepy mountain town, but at Corpus Christi its ancient streets do a passable impersonation of the Rio carnival. During the celebrations, which date back to the 12th century, Berga’s population swells many times over, and the fun reaches levels probably well in excess of EU guidelines. La Patum (lapatum.cat), as the festival is called, lasts for five days, and for a celebration based on Corpus Christi, it does seem distinctly pagan. Proceedings begin when the medieval town reverberates with the sound of a huge drum, el tabal, paraded through the tight tangle of alleyways. On successive nights the town square plays host

to parades, pantomime, fireworks, a festival of flares, more fireworks, wine, and people dancing their legs off. The Catalans, you may have gathered, are inveterate party people. Chances are, however, that in heading for this neck of the woods, you’re looking for somewhere perhaps a little under the radar of the average tourist. You’re unlikely to be disappointed. Due north from the frolicking and feasting of Berga, lies the town of Bagà, traditionally considered the capital of Alt Berguedà, a rural area where nature still appears to be in charge. The region once came under the sway, in the 9th century AD, of Wilfred the Hairy – “hairy in places not normally so in men ...” according to contemporaneous annals; make of that what you will. Today there are few reminders of Wilf, unless of course you count the flags. Did


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culture | catalonia

Stay at...

I mention the flags? Forgive me. It seems that the Catalan flags fly from every telegraph pole, government building, henhouse, church – everywhere. According to legend, Wilfred had a hand, literally, in their design. Charles the Bald rewarded Wilfred’s bravery in battle by giving him a coat of arms. The story goes that the king slid Wilfred's blood-stained fingers over his copper shield, and so was born the distinctive gold and red striped Catalan flag. Wilfred is today buried some 30 kilometres to the west, in the

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SPlurGe One of the finest luxury hotels close to Berga — the capital of the region some 40km away — is the four star Parador de Vic-Sau, a converted Catalan farmhouse combining rustic charm with an extravagant panorama stretching as far as the snow-capped Pyrenees. Nearby are ancient monasteries, quiet woodland, and villages that, once having lived through tumultuous times, are having a bit of a doze. Double rooms from €164,

although various deals are available. (Paraje el Bac de Sau Ctra. de Tavèrnoles, Vic, +34 93 812 2323; parador.es) MiD-ranGe In the heart of the pre-Pyrenean mountain range, can Boix de Peramola Hotel is a

comfortable rural bolt-hole. Swimming pool, tennis courts and breathtaking views are all part of the deal. The décor tends towards the rustic, but with style to spare. Double rooms from €99. (Can Boix, +34 97 347 0266; canboix.com)

Clockwise from top left, local colour in Bagà; the gold and red striped Catalan flag; Catalonia is renowned for its spectacular scenic beauty.

BuDGet Village-set Hotel casa Duaner takes its eco credentials very seriously. And their claims aren’t greenwash — they really do care about the planet. But the owners are relaxed enough to join you over a bottle of wine (or two) to discuss the best way forward for the earth, or what you’d like for dinner, and would you like another glass of wine. Double rooms €43. (Pl. Farga, 10, Guardiola de Berguedà, +34 93 822 7672; elrecodelavi.com)

beautiful Benedictine monastery of Santa Maria de Ripoll – which remains a perfect little corner of medieval Europe. The flags still fly in Bagà, with the town nestling in the shadow of the Pyrenees. Yes, nestling. No other word for it. If towns had to apply for a licence before using the word ‘nestling’, Bagà would be granted immediate qualification by the inspectors. Arranged around Plaça Porxada, the 13th century central square, the town doesn’t look as if much has changed in the 700 years since Wilfred the Hairy and Charles the Bald discussed flags, and possibly hair. Steep, narrow streets lead from the square to dark bars tailor-made for clandestine trysts (and ace tapas). In the near distance, a tolling bell tells you you’re nearing the 14th century church of Sant Esteve. Parts of the old wall survive,


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culture | catalonia

5 Best Things To Do

1 Above and right, crosses and signs mark the Pyrenean trail. Below, a river rushes through the mountain wilds.

Keep your eyes open in the mountains because el Parc natural del cadí Moixeró (+34 93 824 4151; gen.cat/parcs/cadi) is home to some of the A-listers of the avian and mammalian world. Bearded and Griffon vultures will both check out your health from afar as you walk along, while the likes of eagles, wild cats, wolves and chamois will tend to keep themselves scarce. Wild hog somewhat less so. The Museu de la colonia Vidal de Puig-reig (Carretera C-16, +34 93 829 0458; museucoloniavidal. org) is a fascinating insight into the industrial heritage of the area. The museum is set inside an old mill, with looms, workers’ flats, company school and company shop still intact. At an altitude of 1,200 metres the llobegrat springs are the spectacular source of one of the

2 3

as does the turreted, Romanesque Pont de la Vila (Town Bridge) which crosses the babbling, troutfilled Bastareny River. This is a place that rewards those fond of lingering. Naturally, Bagà has its own festival. The Fia-faia is a celebration of the winter solstice dating from pre-Christian times. More fireworks, parades, wine, devilment. But it’s time to say hasta luego to Bagà, although a nonchalant fins després! – Catalan for missing-youalready! – will go down even better. We’re headed up the mountains where the air will be thinner and the scenery more vertical. Our destination is the cordillera of the Catalan Pyrenees that poke down into this region – specifically El Cadí-Moixeró Natural Park (+34 93 824 4151, gencat.cat/parcs/cadi), which comes with views guaranteed to give you gooseflesh. The highest peak in the area is the Pedraforca (2,444.8m), and although modest by Pyrenean 92 |

July 2013

standards, that’s about two Carrauntuohils on top of each other. “Stone Fork” in English, it is, apparently, a fairly easy climb – but of course these things are relative. It’s certainly one of the most photogenic of mountains – screensavers ahoy. Several hundred kilometres of hiking trails criss-cross these hills, linking villages with upland meadows. The paths switchback up the valley walls, with pine, fir, maple and beech covering a drop of several hundred feet. Should you slip and fall, have a good look around – this is a very interesting habitat, called “middle mountain”, encompassing Mediterranean and Alpine vegetation. These trails have a poignant historical significance too. The Cathars, a medieval religious group in France, somewhat unwisely decided to label the Catholic Church “the Church of Satan”. This did little to foster good relations locally, and before long the Cathars were fleeing

most important rivers in Catalonia, the Llobregat. In geological terms this is karst spring phenomenon in layman’s terms: awesome. Mountain areas have long produced excellent cheese for the simple reason that in days gone by there was no way to get the milk down into the valley during severe weather. This and many other cheesy facts will be imparted to you at the Formatge Bauma cheese factory (La Solano, Borreda, +34 93 823 9064, formatgebauma.com) The Museu del Pastor (Plaça del Castell, Castellar de n’Hug, +34 93 825 7016, concursgossosgatura.com) will tell you everything you’ve ever wanted to know about the life of a shepherd and his flock in this corner of Catalonia. Just like wool itself, this place is surprisingy absorbing.

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The stunning topography of the Catalonian Pyrenees.

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culture | catalonia

Eat at ...

across the Pyrenees – headed for Spain using this route, the Camí dels Bons Homes (+34 938 244 861; camidelsbonshomes. com). Now, you may think that anyone seeking to escape religious persecution in medieval times by taking refuge in Spain was a tad misguided; but, in fact, as soon as the Cathars managed to make it across the high mountain passes and into Catalonia, they were free of the Inquisitors. Always an independently-minded place, the Catalans welcomed the refugees. Today you can follow these trails, climbing high into the hills. The paths are steep – you’ll find this is often the way with religious escape routes – and your lungs will wheeze like an old melodeon. But the reward will be views of quite extraordinary clarity across the foothills of the Pyrenees. Cathartic in all senses of the word. Occasionally little stone refuges appear along the way. Some have been refurbished, and it’s possible to stay overnight – most are roomy enough for four people, or six extremely friendly ones. And no thoughts of religious pursuers. Everything is quiet and tranquil. Or 94 |

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SPlurGe Creative and traditional Catalan cuisine is served up at la cabana restaurant (C-1411z km 79.5, Berga, +34 93 821 0470; lacabanaberga. com, around €60 a head including wine, although there is a set menu for €35). The sommelier will guide you in the direction of some of the best local wines and cava. From the panoramic window at the front of the restaurant with views right across the valley you can just make out the vineyards where your wine came from. MiD-ranGe Molí del casó just outside Bagà (Lugar Terradellas, +34 93 824 4076; molidelcaso.es, from €30 a head) doubles, or indeed triples, as restaurant, hotel and

fairly tranquil. In the spring you’ll hear the cuckoo, in summer the woodpecker, and the whole year round you’ll have the company of howling wolves. The latter, however, aren’t at the top of the food chain hereabouts – that’ll be the European bear, Ursus arctos arctos (so cuddly they named it twice). It’s not clear if the wolf and bear numbers constitute a settled population or whether these predators are merely tourists passing through. Anyway, mind how you go. On the way back down stop off just below the peak of Pedró de Tubau at the village of Sant Jaume de Frontanyà (+34 93 823 9280;

From top, the 11th century church in Sant Jaume de Frontanyà; Señora Maria, hotelier and restaurateur; a hearty broth awaits guests at Cal Marxandó.

cooking school. Hens scratch around outside, cattle can be heard lowing in the field, and fresh produce comes from the organic orchard. Just-hauled out-of-theriver produce is a top feature, with the fish so fresh they still look surprised to be there. BuDGet Berga, like most Catalan towns, is well served by tapas bars. cal Blasi (Pl. Viladomat 21, Berga, +34 93 821 0950; calblasi.com, around €15 a head) is one of the finest, serving the likes of patates braves, morcilla de León (blood sausage), and local cheeses and wines. Perfect for languid lunches that last till sunset. No place for those with a bird-like appetite. Afterwards, stroll around nearby Plaça Sant Père Lachaise Cemetery, known as the ‘Burnt Square’ since the Huguenots attacked it and in the 17th century. You’re never too far from history here.

turismesantjaume.com). This is reputedly the smallest village in all Spain. Its 23 people can refer to themselves as a village because there is a properly constituted ‘city hall’ with village council and mayor. The 10 per cent of the population who showed us round the local restaurant and hotel Cal Marxandó, (+34 93 823 9002; terra.es/personal2/marxando) were friendly and welcoming, and the Cal is a place I’d choose anytime to live in religious exile. Maria, the owner, also the Town Councillor


O

’Neill’s is one of Dublin’s most famous and historic pubs. Centuries of Dublin history surround the world-renowned O’Neill’s. Just around the corner from Trinity College, Grafton Street and the Molly Malone Statue, trade has flourished uninterrupted for over 300 years. O’Neill’s is conveniently set in the heart of Dublin.

Our fully-refurbished Roof-Top Beer Garden & Smoking Area

When you pay us a visit you will receive a warm and friendly welcome and you can enjoy its ageless character, numerous alcoves, snugs, nooks and crannies. To make your visit as enjoyable as possible we offer you ... ●

Extensive Irish Food Menu and Famous Carvery serving only the finest Irish Meat, Fish and Vegetables. In fact, Lonely Planet rate us as one of the Top 5 Places to find ´Real Irish food in Dublin´.

Traditional Irish Music 7 nights-a-week

Roof-Top Beer Garden and Smoking Area

Largest selection of local Irish Craft Beers in Ireland

Pour Your Own Pint tables

Free Wi-Fi to all our Customers

HD and 3D Screens for the Sports Fan with major international league games.

‘Really Good’ Full Irish Breakfast only

€6.95

Available Mon-Fri, 8am-11.30am

M.J. O’Neill Suffolk Street, Dublin 2 Tel. 01 679 3656 www.oneillsbar.com

Mon-Thurs: 8.00am-11.30pm Fri: 8.00am-12.30am Sat: 8.00am-12.30am Sun: 8.00am-11.00pm SatNav 53.343958, -6.260796

“Top 5 places to find Real Irish Food in Dublin”

2013 Les Routiers Pub of The Year


CULtURE | CAtALONIA

Cool, classy, vibrant barcelona is a city which not only glories in being a work of art, but also provides an endless supply of sensual pleasures including some of Europe’s finest restaurants and sizzling clubs. a world-beating blend of natural beauty and human artistry, the main axis of the old town is formed by Las Ramblas, which weaves its way towards the mediterranean passing stalls, restaurants, bars, boutiques and street performers and culminating at a statue of Christopher Columbus. on his return from america, Columbus headed straight for barcelona. and who can blame him? he was presumably desperate for a decent cup of coffee and a tapa. the centrepiece of barcelona’s architectural treasures is the templo Expatrio de la Sagrada Família, designed by antonio Gaudí. aside from Gaudí’s jack-thelad architecture, barcelona is a handsome mix of medieval, art nouveau and gothic buildings, interspersed with modern museums, theatres and art galleries. the Barri Gòtic, by Las ramblas, is the beautiful medieval heart of the old city. For shopping, head for La Boqueria, one of the most magnificent food markets in the world. to escape the urban swirl of barcelona chill in Gaudí’s extraordinary Park Güell, with its zany beauty and outlandish fripperies, some fifteen minutes from the centre.

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ILLuStratIon by annE SmIth

Barcelona

Top, Barcelona viewed from its surrounding hills; above, fresh, rustic Catalan bread.

fo Culture and for Tourism, escorted To us across to the 11th century church. ce “The Romanesque church of Sant ch Jaume de Frontanyà Ja has witnessed many ha anecdotes during the an past 10 centuries,” pa says the information leaflet, and you can’t leafl help but feel that in this land of turbulent th religious history, ‘anecdote’ is understating the case just a bit. Anecdote or not, it was time for us to take our leave of the mountains. Sadly, we were headed back to Barcelona – and it’s not often you read those words. Even though we were bound for one of

Europe’s classiest, most exciting cities, it was a wrench to leave this enchanting corner of the Iberian Peninsula. Here in rural Catalonia the mixture of cosy, friendly villages surrounded by primal, spectacular landscape is truly seductive. They say that if the Swiss had been allowed to design their own mountains they would have come up with something a little lower, a little less outré. No such danger here. The mountains are exuberant, exciting and unpredictable, but can be tranquil and restful – pretty much the way life has always been in these parts. AER LINGUS FLIES From DubLIn to BARCELONA DaILy, anD From CorK, mon, WED, FrI anD Sat.


LouIs FItzgerALd HospItALIty City Centre Heritage Pubs Dublin & Galway

GRAND CENTRAL

10/11 O’Connell St, Dublin 1 Tel: 01 8728658

Dating back to the 19th century, it was partly destroyed in the 1916 rising. Today you can still enjoy some of the original features, high dome ceilings and hand crafted stone, but now complemented with plush leather seats and dramatic chandeliers. Superb food served daily.

Temple Bar, Ph: +353 1 670 8777 www.arlingtonhoteltemplebar.com

O’Connell Bridge Ph: +353 1 804 9100 www.arlington.ie

Traditional Irish hospitality awaits you in the Arlington Hotels. Boasting 200 Bedrooms in the Heart of the City. Experience the true Dublin and stay with us in these Iconic Locations.

KEHOES

9 South Anne, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 6778312

Situated off Dublin’s premier shopping street, Grafton Street. This is one of the finest, if not the finest, Victorian pubs in Dublin. Although it is unchanged since 19th century, this is not a museum, it is a buzzing vibrant pub with a fantastic atmosphere and a special place in the heart of Dubliners. This is a must see.

THE STAGS HEAD

1 Dame Court, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 6793687

Established in the 1700s, it was last renovated in 1895 and was the first pub in Dublin to change from gas lighting to electricity. A favourite haunt for those in the literary world including Joyce and Kavanagh over the years. Today it still has the authentic feel of a real Dublin pub.

THE QUAYS

11-12 Temple Bar, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 6713922 The Quays, Temple Bar situated in the heart of Temple Bar is one of Dublin’s liveliest pubs with a great mix of locals and tourists. Live Irish Traditional Music everyday makes the pub a magnet for those of us looking for a bit of craic and with a restaurant on the first floor.

THE LOUIS FITZGERALD HOTEL ★★★★

THE BAGGOT INN Lower Baggot Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 6618758

The Baggot Inn offer you the original and unique ‘Pour your own Pint’ experience. Located in the hub of Dublin’s business centre, we serve a wide variety of hot and tasty food. First Failte Ireland Approved Dublin Pub check out the Baggot Inn FREE APP.

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THE QUAYS

★ 21 meetings rooms

Quay Street, Galway Tel: 091 568347 The Quays, situated in the heart of Galway city and established in the 1600s, it has kept the charm which gained it an international reputation for its traditional Irish music sessions. Traditional Irish fare, the best of music and the 'craic' are the order of the day.

★ 190 bedrooms ★ Amazing Wedding packages available Newlands Cross, Dublin 22. Tel: 01 403 3300 Email: stay@louisfiftzgeraldhotel.com www.louisfiftzgeraldhotel.com

AN POITIN STIL

JOELS RESTAURANT

Award winning thatched Restaurant & Bar with its own Stil and quirky museum. An Poitin Stil is one of Ireland’s Most Famous Pubs.

Modern and bright, Joels is one of Dublin’s liveliest dining venues, with an extensive menu catering for almost every taste.

Rathcoole, Co. Dublin Tel: 01 4589244

Naas Rd, Dublin 22 Tel: 01 4592968

A warm welcome awaits you from all the staff at the Louis Fitzgerald Group

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Culture break | WarsaW

5

reasons to visit

WarsaW

Whether you’re a culture vulture or a bar fly, the Polish capital covers all bases for visitors, says Kit F Chung.

A bird’s eye view of Castle Square from the Balon Widokowy, Sigismund’s Column on the left and the former royal residence – now a museum – on the right.

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Music Known for burritos, quesadillas and tequila, Warsaw Tortilla Factory (46 Wilcza Street, +48 226 218 622; warsawtortillafactory. pl) has long been moonlighting as a venue for live music. Its Irish owner, Niall Leonard, brings in local and international crooners to serenade expats and travellers. There is no fixed schedule – though you can expect acoustic vocals and rock covers – so get updates on its Facebook page. Also, on the same street is Warsaw’s oldest jazz club, Jazzarium (50 Wilcza Street; jazzarium.pl). Music bars spring up in summer along the left bank of the river – Cud Nad Wisł (Bulwar Flotylli Wi lanej, +48 224 680 000; cudnadwisla.com) is the toast of the town, showcasing the best of Polish talent, from contemporary jazz and alternative rock to soul and funk. Over on the right bank, Klub Hydrozagadka (11 Listopada Street 22; hydrozagadka.waw.pl) is also pulling in music lovers to revel until dawn to Polish and international acts. July 2013

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Culture break | WarsaW Left, Stalin’s gift to the city, the Palace of Culture. Below, futuristic mall Złote Tarasy. Bottom, the Museum of the History of the Polish Jews.

Shopping Culture Warsaw would easily walk off with the Ms Personality accolade in a beauty contest. Its Communism-clashed-with-new-bling-and-regalold-world skyline is brimming with stories if not sporting a pretty face. But it’s a city that’ll win you over. Get an up-close character study of the Polish capital by hitching a ride on a Communism tour by adventure Warsaw (+48 606 225 525; adventurewarsaw.com) – not the usual hop-on/hop-off, as the guides bundle you into a curvaceous Nysa van made in Poland during the Cold War. The quirky, three-hour tour takes in Socialist Realism architecture,

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including the imposing Palace of Culture – Stalin’s gift to the city and the Communist HQ – and a mock-up period home that’s a treat for fans of vintage propaganda artwork. Stretch it to four hours and you’ll literally get a taste of postwar Poland at a “milk bar”, a state-sponsored canteen for the working class. For more cultural history and the influence of the past on the present, visit the newly opened Museum of the History of Polish Jews (6 Anielewicza Street, +48 224 710 300; jewishmuseum.org.pl), the building design inspired by Moses parting the Red Sea.

Situated outside the tourist circuit, the open-air koło bazar (99 Obozowa, +48 228 362 351, weekends from dawn to early afternoon) is part antique market and part salvage yard. Rummaging through the goods on the tables and plastic sheets is like taking a tour of design history, with pre-war tableware such as complete tea services in fine porcelain, sauceboats and silver cutlery. Other vendors specialise in coins and stamps, oil lamps and candelabras, and analogue cameras. There’s also Second World War paraphernalia, clothing, old surgical tools and posters. Prices aren’t dirt-cheap but it’s possible to chance upon value deals. Most traders here don’t speak English, so be prepared to deploy sign language. International-style shopping, with no Polish required, can be found at Złote tarasy (59 Złota Street, +48 222 222 200; zlotetarasy.pl), the city’s trendiest mall beside Central Station. In addition to big brand clothing, shoes and cosmetics, it also has a sizeable outlet of empik bookstore. For chi-chi boutiques, visit Mokotowska street, where the country’s leading fashion designers have set up camp, including Maciej Zie (No 57) and Ania Kuczy ska (No 61).


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Culture break | WarsaW Left, Warsaw’s ornate Wilanów Palace. Below, Michelin-starred restaurant Atelier Amaro. Bottom, decorative Hotel Bristol.

Eating As the only restaurant in Poland anointed with a Michelin star, atelier amaro (1 Agrykola Street, +48 226 285 747; atelieramaro.pl), above, is Warsaw’s answer to Noma and elBulli. Minimalist in decor, it looks every bit the temple of haute cuisine but the price tags are, relatively speaking, quite affordable. Diners choose from a tasting menu of three, five or eight “moments”, and in addition to seasonal and local produce they rope in unusual ingredients such as twigs and mock mud; cue clicking camera phones whenever these edible arts and crafts are served. Even the complimentary amusebouche are amazing and, this being Poland, Atelier Amaro also has a selection of high-end “little water”, aka vodka. Those not in the mood for immaculately manicured dishes can turn to burgers, for Warsaw is in the grip of artisanal burger mania. Getting a thumbs-up for its in-house protein patties is brooklyn burgers and Wings (36 Nowy wiat Street, +48 222 702 144).

Where to Stay Mamaison Hotel le regina (Koscielna 12, +48 225 316 000; mamaison.com) is the byword for elegance and attentive service. Restored from an 18th-century palace, this luxurious boutique hotel is well located on a quiet street at the far end of the historical New Town. The rooms are in subdued brown and champagne hues with some opening out to patios or rooftop terraces. It features an indoor pool and sauna but the best spot to spoil yourself is at La Rotisserie, a French-inspired restaurant staffed by top chef Pawel Oszczyk, a runner-up in the 1995 Bocuse d’Or competition, while for wine pairing, you’re in the safe hands of Poland’s 2012 and 2013 sommelier champion Andrzej Strzelczyk. Should you demand a hotel with a sweeping, bird’s-eye view of the city, check into the Marriott Warsaw (65/79 Jerozolimskie Avenue, +48 226 306 306; marriott.com/ wawpl), whose 40th floor Panorama Bar & Lounge ogles the city at large. Another hotel with an impressive watering hole is Hotel bristol (42/44 Krakowskie Przedmie cie Street, +48 225 511 000; hotelbristolwarsaw. pl/en), right, that dates back to 1901 and whose Art Deco/ Art Nouveau Column Bar is opulent.

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aer lINGus FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO WarsaW ON MON, WED, FRI AND SUN.


LANG SYMPHONY RENEE ORCHESTRA LANG FLEMING RTÉ NATIONAL


Being there | COPenhAgen

Don’t miss ...

48 hours in

Copenhagen It’s not just food that’s on fire in Denmark’s capital city. From mega museums to microbreweries, Copenhagen has something for all kinds of visitor, finds Pól �� Conghaile. Eat at …

Noma will push your palate (and price point) to the limit, but a little foraging of your own can uncover some surprisingly affordable alternatives in Copenhagen. nOrDiC If you do want to splash out in Scandinavia, don’t miss noma (Strandgade 93, +45 3296 3297; noma.dk). René Redzepi’s restaurant was named the best in the world three years running, and remains the go-to place for creative Nordic cuisine. Set menus offer up to 20 courses from DK1,500/€200 (without wine) but must be booked months in advance. MArKet israels Plads has been Copenhagen’s traditional marketplace since 1889, but it took the glossy halls of torvehallerne (torvehallernekbh.dk) to propel it into the 21st century. Sixty or so speciality stalls selling meat, breads, coffees and snacks, ranging from fish taco to duck rolls with rocket and sweet mustard, are just the ticket for gastro-grazing. MiDDLe grOUnD Eating out in Copenhagen needn’t be expensive. A DK275/€37 three-course menu at höst (Nørre Farimagsgade 41, +45 8993 8409; cofoco.dk) might start with cod served in oyster cream and kohlrabi, moving on to a riff on pork belly with purple-sprouting broccoli, and finishing with junket mousse and rhubarb sorbet. Slick service and a sleek dining room seal the deal.

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Clockwise from left, the colourful Nyhavn harbour; Louisiana Museum of Modern Art is well worth a day trip; market hall treats at Torvehallerne; floral fancies at Noma.

MOSeY Jaegersborgadde (jaegersborggade.com) is one of the hippest streets in Nørrebro, having traded its street dealers for a string of cutting-edge restaurants, shops and design studios. Pick of the crop includes the Michelin star minimalism of Relae (No 41), fussball and vinyl at Musiksmag (No 43), and street couture at Slam (No 5). MAritiMe As a waterfront city, Copenhagen is famous for its canal tours, quayside eateries and, of course, a certain Little Mermaid. The newest maritime attraction is the national Aquarium (Jacob Fortlingsvej 1, +45 4422 2244; denblaaplanet.dk), boasting more than 20,000 fish and ocean animals, including Europe’s largest school of piranhas. From DK160/95 (€21/13). MUSeUM Picasso, Bacon and Rothko are just some of the artists on display at the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art (Fredensborg, +45 4919 0719; louisiana.dk). Innovative art and a sweet seaside setting easily justify the 35-kilometre trip from Copenhagen’s centre.


Sleep at…

A mash-up of design hotels, old classics and mid-range outliers offers something for every budget in Copenhagen – provided you book ahead. DESIGN Overlooking the waterfront near Nyhaven, Hotel Admiral (Toldbodgade 24-28, +45 3374 1414; admiralhotel.dk) offers doubles in a converted 18th-century warehouse from DK1255/€168 or so. Bare brick and huge wooden beams add to the ambiance. BoUTIQUE Seventeen rooms would be small for Carlow, let alone Copenhagen, but size isn’t all that matters at Nimb hotel (Bernstorffgade 5, +45 8870 0000; nimb.dk). Private fireplaces, views of Tivoli Gardens and a Michelin star restaurant are all on the menu from €375 per night. BUDGET Copenhagen is one of Europe’s most expensive city breaks, so why not save money by staying at Generator hostel (Adelgade 5-7, +45 7877 5400; generatorhostels.com)? Private twin rooms start from just DK205/€27.50pp. Above right, the strikingly Moorish Nimb Hotel. Right, a bartender mixes swanky cocktails at Ruby. Below, beer hall with a difference, Mikkeller & Friends.

Drink at...

Dapper Danes give Copenhagen the appearance of one big catwalk ... and the bars are every bit as beautiful as the people. cocKTAILS If Scandinavian swank were a genre, Ruby (Nybrogade 10, +45 3393 1203; rby.dk) would be its flagship. The super-sleek cocktail bar lounges over several elegant rooms with canal views, to a gentleman’s-clubstyle basement, with snooty bartenders mixing up the jasmine sours and Ruby daiquiris. Condé Nast Traveller ranked it the number one reason to go to Copenhagen. Our tip? Get there early; it opens at 4pm. DANcE By day, Copenhagen’s Meatpacking District looks like an abandoned shopping mall. By night, neon signs spark up and a melange of gritty and glamorous bars kicks into life. Best of the bunch are the upmarket, electro-churning Karriere; and Jolene’s, where beer is drunk from bottles and grinding punters pack out the tiny dance floor. BEER Carlsberg is a top Copenhagen tourist attraction, but Mikkeller & Friends (Stefansgade 35,+45 3583 1020; mikkeller.dk) offers a brand-free brewery buzz. A choice of 40 craft beers – and tasty gourmet snacks – makes for an ideal afternoon in trendy Nørrebro. AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO copENhAGEN, MON, TUE, WED, THUR, FRI & SUN.

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MONAGHAN’S

CASHMERE STORE Established 1960

“Ireland’s Leading Cashmere Store” Frommers Travel Guide

Welcome to the heart of Killarney National Park and to Molly Darcy’s Traditional Irish Pub. The home of great Irish food and live Traditional entertainment. Enjoy Dinner, Craft Irish Beers & Ales plus Leading Irish Music Band Onóra with The Torc Dancers.

Join us this Summer for a fun Irish Night ... an experience to remember! June: Every Tuesday & Thursday July – Sept: Every Tuesday – Saturday inc. Entertainment from 8pm • Group reservations are welcome! • FREE Parking • FREE WiFi Internet • Close to Killarney Town Centre

Molly Darcy’s Traditional Irish Pub In the heart of Killarney National Park

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Royal Thai Cuisine since 1999

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As it is the year of The Gathering, if your family name is Monaghan, Tom would personally love to meet you in-store and offer you an extra 10% discount in addition to your tax free rebate on the horizon tax free card for all non-eu residents. (Terms & Conditions apply)

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A trip to Dublin would not be complete without visiting Tom Monaghan in his store in Dublin’s Royal Hibernian Way. Monaghan’s is famous for its cashmere and has been in business for over 50 years, selling a wide range of classic cashmere in the latest styles and colours for both men and women.

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Mr. Tom Monaghan

Tel: +353 (0)64 662 3400 | Muckross | Killarney | Co. Kerry E: info@muckrosspark.com www.mollydarcy.ie

Reservations tel:(01)661 1829 reservations@diep.net 55 Pembroke Lane, Off Lr. Baggot Street, Dublin 2


THE HIGHLINE (210 10th Avenue, +1 212 206 9922; thehighline.org) has fast become one of my favourite places during the week. Do not go on the weekend though – it gets so crowded it becomes uncomfortable. Pick up some lunch and eat on one of the many benches provided. It’s such a nice treat in the middle of a very industrial area.

An insider’s guide to

NewYork

Brunch is very NYC. PRUNE (54 East First Street, +1 212 677 6221; prunerestaurant.com), above, has the best one in town – the pancakes are incredible – but be prepared to wait, no matter how early you go. For delicious pizza, LIL’ FRANKIE’S is delicious (19 First Avenue, +1 212 420 4900; lilfrankies.com), as is the coffee at LA COLOMBE , top (different locations; lacolombe.com/cafes).

Adopted New Yorker Aoife Wasser reveals her favourite chunks of the Big Apple.

Watching New York City Ballet, right, at the LINCOLN CENTER (10 Lincoln Center Plaza, +1 212 721 6500; lincolncenter.org) is my favourite thing. Tickets are good value, and they do matinees. Off Broadway I’ve seen Tom Hanks in Lucky Guy and Sigourney Weaver in Vanya and Sonia and Masha and Spike. I love that about New York. Go to a show and you can bore people for years talking about it at parties. That’s what I do! THE GREENWICH HOTEL (377 Greenwich Stre +1 212 941 8900; thegreenwichhotel. Street, com) is an escape from the frenzy of the city. co It has a beautiful contemporary country feel, and in the summer the courtyard dining area an is just perfect. I feel like I’m on holiday every time I visit.

More about Aoife

The METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART (1000 Fifth Avenue, +1 212 535 7710; metmuseum.org) is so vast that sometimes just the thought of going makes you exhausted. But my favourite bits are the Impressionist Paintings, Ancient Egypt, the Costume Institute and Armor and Weapons. And from May until September the Met opens its roof garden and Martini bar. Heavenly on a summer’s afternoon.

Having lived in the city for more than ten years, Aoife Wasser is practically a New Yorker. She began her career as a design intern for Visionaire magazine and, over the years, has worked her way up to become creative director of Teen Vogue, working alongside the infamous Anna Wintour. In 2011 she moved on to form her own creative studio, and is currently working on several projects for Rizzoli Publishing and also teaches the Creative Team course at Parsons University in New York City.

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HIGHLINE PHOTO cOURTESY OF STEVE RYAN / NEW YORK cITY BALLET’S SYMPHONY IN THREE MOVEMENTS BY PAUL KOLNIK / TOP OF THE STANDARD BY TODD EBERLE / THE AcE HOTEL BY DOUGLAS LYLE THOMPSON / THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART’S TEMPLE OF DENDUR IN THE SAcKLER WING BY BROOKS WALKER, 2008

If th there was an accessories ori heaven, hea HENRI BENDEL (7 (712 Fifth Avenue, +1 212 247 1100; henribendel.com), above, would be it. The department store has every accessory you can imagine. Its shelves are filled with infinite amounts of products. And prices are insanely good at BARNEYS (660 Madison Avenue, +1 212 826 8900; barneys.com), which has warehouse sales every February and August. As you can imagine the last day of the sale is not for the faint-hearted.

The perfect photo opportunity is of – and from – BROOKLYN BRIDGE and then over to BROOKYLN HEIGHTS promenade: you will look across at Manhattan in all its glory. Same with BATTERY PARK , which, even on very hot days, always seems to have a soothing breeze.

THE ACE HOTEL (20 West 29th Street, +1 212 679 2222; acehotel.com/newyork) marches to the beat of its own drum. The atmosphere is fantastic, very easy-going and extremely down to earth – probably because of its Portland, Oregon, roots. The lobby alone is a great place to visit if you’re not a guest – great food, drinks and music. It gets quite crowded, so arrive early.

I love the Lower East Side for unusual vintage items. There are too many stores to mention but one of my favourites is EDITH THE MACHINEST (104 Rivington Street, +1 212 979 9992; edithmachinist.com), above left, and DOYLE & DOYLE (189 Orchard Street, +1 212 677 9991; doyledoyle.com) has an incredible collection of vintage jewellery, right.

Enjoy great city views, amazing cocktails and beautiful people? THE TOP OF THE STANDARD (Standard Hotel, 848 Washington at 13th Street, +1 212 645 4646; standardhotels.com/high-line) is the place to be. The decor has such a wonderful 1960s feel that you expect to see Don Draper drinking with the boys. Its floor-to-ceiling windows feel a bit weird at first until you realise there are no other buildings high enough for Peeping Toms …

New Yorkers wouldn’t survive without CENTRAL PARK, left. Ne We Weekends in summer are especially jam-packed with events but its best-kept secret is the roller disco every Saturday and Sunday from 3pm until sundown. Also, BRYANT PARK is a great place to fr rest and people watch, and has open-air movies from sunset. re

AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN AND SHANNON TO NEW YORK DAILY.

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’ AST! E SE ELF T US IN B M A ‘ TION AC R T AT

EXPERIENCE THE STORY OF RMS TITANIC AT THE BIRTHPLACE BELFAST, NORTHERN IRELAND

Located in Titanic Quarter, Belfast, at the ship’s birthplace and just 5 minutes drive from the city centre, Titanic Belfast is the World’s Largest Titanic Visitor Experience. Housed in an iconic 6-floor building, this state-of-the-art visitor experience tells the story of the Titanic from her conception in Belfast in the early 1900s; through to her construction and launch; to her famous maiden voyage and her subsequent place in history. For tickets and summer event schedule visit

titanicbelfast.com Key supporting partner

Supported by


GALWAY, 18th-21st sept

a family festival of hurling, irish culture & the craic aerlingushurling.com


INFLIGHT

Inflight

For your guide to our new and exciting On Demand movies and television programmes, including Girls (pictured), turn to page 116.


inFlight

Welcome Aboard For your comfort and safety Please pay attention while the cabin crew demonstrate the use of the safety equipment before take-off. Also, make sure to read the safety instruction card, which is in the seat pocket in front of you. Seat belts must be fastened during take-off and landing, and whenever the “Fasten Seat Belts” sign is switched on. We recommend that you keep your seat belt loosely fastened throughout the flight.

Your seat must be in the upright position during takeoff and landing, but can be reclined by pressing the large button in the armrest. Other buttons (in the armrest or above your head, depending on the aircraft) may be used to operate your reading light and air vent, or to call a cabin attendant.

ar mhaithe de do chompord agus le do shábháilteacht ... ... iarraimid ort aird mhaith a thabhairt, ar an bhfoireann cábáin ag tús na heililte agus iad ag taispeáint conas an fearas slándála a úsáid. Iarraimid ort an cárta threoraca slándála atá i bpóca an tsuíocháin os do chomhair a léamh chomh maith. Caithfear criosanna sábhála bheith ceangailte le linn éirí agus tuirlingthe agus ag aon am a bhíonn an comhartha “Fasten Seat Belts” ar iasadh. Molaimid duit an crios sábhála bheith leathcheangailte agat i rith an turais.

Le linn éirí agus tuirlingthe, ní mór do shuíochan bheith sa suíomh ingearach. Ag am ar bith eile, is féidir an suíochán a chur siar ach brú ar an gcnaipe mór atá ar an taca uillinne. Tá cnaipí eile ann (ar an taca uillinne nó os do chionn, ag brath ar an eitleán) chun úsáid a bhaint as an solas léitheoireachta nó as an ngaothaire, nó chun glaoch ar bhall den fhoireann cábáin.

Portable electronic equipment Portable electronic equipment may interfere with aircraft equipment, creating a potentially hazardous situation. With safety as our priority, we ask you to pay particular attention to the following: Mobile phones and all other personal electronic equipment must be switched off and stowed safely as soon as the aircraft doors are closed. It is not permissible to use any electronic device to transmit or receive data during the flight, however devices equipped with flight mode, or the equivalent, may be used. Flight mode should be selected before the device is switched off. Devices PermitteD ✔ at any time: Devices powered by micro battery cells

and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers.

Devices PermitteD ● in Flight but not During taxi/take-oFF/

initial climb/aPProach lanDing: Laptops with CD ROM or DVD drive, palmtop organisers, handheld calculators without printers, portable audio equipment (eg Walkman, CD-player, Mini-disk player, iPod and MP3-player). For the comfort of other passengers, audio devices should be used with a headset. Computer games (eg Gameboy, Nintendo DS). Video cameras/recorders, digital cameras, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers, electronic toys. Bluetooth devices with mobile phones in “Flight” mode, devices with “Blackberry” technology with “Flight”/Flight Safe” mode

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selected, laptops, PDAs with built-in Wi-Fi with “Wireless Off” setting selected. Devices ProhibiteD ✘ at all times: Devices transmitting radio frequency

intentionally such as walkietalkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and Mini-disk Recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN). Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.


Aer Lingus is delighted to welcome you on board Tá áthas ar Aer Lingus fáilte ar bord a chur romhat

Food and bar service

Seirbhís bia agus beáir

A new range of food items – including sandwiches, confectionery and a range of snacks – is available for sale on all Aer Lingus scheduled services to and from the UK and Europe. A charge applies for all drinks on UK and European flights in Economy class. On long haul flights, there is a charge in Economy class for alcoholic drinks, while soft drinks are complimentary. Details of all items available for purchase are contained in an information leaflet, which is in all seat pockets.

Tá raon nua bia ar fáil anois ar sheirbhísí sceidealta Aer Lingus a dhéanann freastai ar an Riocht Aontaithe agus ar an Eoraip. Ina measc, tá ceapairí, milseogra agus rogha sneaiceanna éagsúla. Ní mór íoc as gach deoch sa ghrád barainne ar na heitiltí seo. Ar eitiltí Trasatlantacha, tá costas ar dheochanna neamh-mheisciúla go fóill ar fáil saor in aisce. Tá sonraí faoi gach rud is féidir a cheannach ar bord foilsithe sa bhileog eolais atá i bpóca an tsuíocháin os do chomhair.

News, music and movies

Nuacht, ceol agus scannáin

On long haul flights, we offer you an extensive programme of viewing and listening options. For full details, turn towards the back of this magazine.

Ar eitiltí Trasatlantacha tá clár leathan féachana agus éisteachta ar fáil. Le hagaidh tuilleadh eolais, féach deireadh na hirise seo.

Fearas iniompartha leictreonach Is féidir le fearas iniompartha leictreonach cur isteach ar threalamh an eitleáin, rud a d’fhéadfadh bheith contúirteach. Agus sábháilteacht mar phríomhchúram ag Aer Lingus, iarraimid ort aird sa bhreis a thabhairt ar an mír seo a leanas: Caithfear gach guthán póca agus gach fearas pearsanta leictreonach a mhúchadh agus a chur i dtaisce a luaithe agus a dhúntar doirse an eitleáin. Ní ceadmhach úsáid a bhaint as uirlis leictreonach ar bith chun sonraí a tharchur nó a ghlacadh i rith na heitilte. Is ceadmhach, áfach, uirlisí le cumas “mód eitilte”, nó a chomhionann sin, a úsáid. Caithfear an lipéad “modh eitilte” a roghnú sula múchtar an uirlis. GLéAsAnnA A bhfuIL ✔ ceAdAIthe I GcónAí: Gléasanna a bhaineann úsáid as

micreaceallairí agus/nó fotaichill; cluaisíní chúnta (gléasanna digiteach san áireamh); glaoirí (gleacadáin amháin); séadairí.

GLéAsAnnA Atá ● ceAdAIthe I rIth nA heItILte, Ach nAch

bhfuIL ceAdAIthe Le LInn don eItLeán bheIth AG GLuAIseAcht Ar tALAmh/AG éIrí de thALAmh/ AG tAbhAIrt fAoIn dreApAdh tosAIGh/ AG dírIú Ar thuIrLInGt/ AG tuIrLInGt: Ríomhairí glúine le tiomántán dlúthdhiosca (CD ROM) nó diosca digiteach ilúsáide (DVD). Eagraithe pearsanta boise. Áireamháin láimhe gan phrintéiri. Clostrealamh iniompartha (ms Walkman, seinnteoir CD, seinnteoir

Mini-disk, iPod, seinnteoir MP3). Ar mhaithe le compord na bpaisinéiri eile, níor choir na gléasanna seo a úsáid ach amháin le cluaisíní. Cluichí ríomhaire (ms Gameboy). Níl cead gaireas forimeallach a úsáid le cluichí láimhe ríomhaire am ar bith (ms paca forlíontach cumhachta a cheanglaítear le cábla). Físcheamaraí agus fístaifeadáin, trealamh digiteach san áireamh. Ceamaraí digiteach. Glacadóirí láimhe chóras suite domhanda (GPS). Rásúir leicreacha. Bréagáin leictreonacha (seachas bréagáin chianrialaithe). Gléasanna “Bluetooth” i gcomhar le gutháin phóca agus iad i “modh eitilte”; uirlisí a bhaineann feidhm as teicneolaíocht “Blackberry” agus “mód eitilte” nó “slánmhód eitilte” roghnaithe orthu; ríomhairí glúine; ríomhairí boise (PDA) le Wi-Fi ionsuite agus an lipéad “raidió múchta” roghnaithe orthu.

GLéAsAnnA A bhfuIL ✘ cosc IomLán orthu: Gléasanna a tharchuireann

minicíocht raidió d’aon turas. Siúlscéalaithe. Bréagaín chianrialaithe. Aonaid fhístaispeána le feadáin ga-chatadóideacha. Trealamh ríomhaire gan sreang (ms luch). Printéirí PC. Schríbhneoiri DVD, CD agus taifeadáin Minidisk atá sa mhodh taifeadta. Ceamthaifeadáin digiteacha agus iad ag athscríobh dlúthdhioscaí. Steiréónna iniompartha. Raidiónna póca (AM/ FM). Glacadóiri teilifíse. Trealamh teiliméadrach. Ní cheadaítear fearas LAN gan sreang (WLAN) a úsáid. Is féidir ríomhairí glúine a bhfuil WLAN ionsuite iontu (ms Centrino) a úsáíd le linn na heitilte ar choinníoll go bhfuil WLAN curtha as agus faoi réir na srianta a bhaineann le húsáid ríomhhairí glúine (thuas luaite).

SmokiNg In line with Irish government regulations, Aer Lingus has a nosmoking policy onboard its flights. Smoking is not permitted in any part of the cabin at any time. tobAc De réir rialacháin Rialtas na hÉireann, tá polasai i réim ar eitiltí Aer Lingus nach gceadaítear tobac a chaitheamh. Ní cheadaítear d’aon duine tobac a chaitheamh in aon chuid den eitleán ag aon am.

Aer Lingus. nk you for choosing to fly with Tha ht. flig t san plea and able We hope you have a comfort le hAer Lingus. agus go raibh maith agat as taisteal t aga h hac eam taitn h dac por Tá suil againn go mbíonn turas com

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inFLight

Aer Lingus news Aer ArAnn expAnds Aer lingus regionAl services Aer Lingus Regional, operated by Aer Arann, recently welcomed the first of eight new ATR aircraft at Dublin Airport. Pictured were Leo Varadkar TD, Minister for Transport, Tourism and Sport; and Seán Brogan, Aer Arann’s Interim Chief Executive Officer. The new fleet will further improve Aer Lingus Regional customers’ experience and will help to develop new routes and increase frequency of services on existing routes. The airline recently moved all flight arrivals and departures to Terminal 2 at Dublin Airport, and now operates from the same terminal as Aer Lingus’ mainline services.

Aer lingus’ new Home At t2 london HeAtHrow from summer 2014

Evening Check-In Service at Dublin Airport – stress free travel for families Aer Lingus has launched an evening check-in service at Dublin Airport, giving passengers the option to check-in their baggage at the airport the evening before a scheduled flight. This new service offers passengers, particularly families, the opportunity to complete their check-in transaction on the evening before their flight between 4pm and 8pm, leaving them virtually hassle free on the morning that they travel.

The service is available exclusively to those travelling between 6am and 8am the following morning. g. Early bird travellers can then effortlessly by-pass the busy morning queues at check-in and make their way through security screening and straight on to their respective boarding gates. Flights with early morning departures include many popular European destinations, including Málaga, Faro,

London and Paris. For more information visit aerlingus.com.

Book Car Parking at Cork airPort With EasE on aerlingus.com

Aer lingus mAintAins vitAl london connections At BelfAst city Airport for winter 2013/2014 AER LINGUS has launched its Winter 2013/2014 schedule from George Best Belfast City Airport, which continues to offer the two

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key routes for business, leisure and transfer traffic, in and out of London Heathrow and London Gatwick. There will be three return

In July 2014 Aer Lingus will move its operations from Terminal 1 to Terminal 2 at London Heathrow. The newly refurbished terminal, when complete, will provide Aer Lingus passengers with extra comfort and with a much improved ease of connection for those transferring to their final destination. Passengers will enjoy a quick transition from plane to train in as little as ten minutes. Aer Lingus has interline and codeshare partnerships with many of the airlines who will operate from Terminal 2, offering a choice of connections to over 100 destinations worldwide. Business passengers will enjoy fast track security lanes and state of the art airline lounges. Aer Lingus operates 23 daily flights from Heathrow to Dublin, Cork, Shannon and Belfast airports.

flights daily to each airport with 84 weekly departures and arrivals, amounting to over 12,000 seats each week.

aer Lingus has made booking car parking at Cork airport easier and more convenient. Customers can now purchase tickets for the Cork airport car park while booking their flight on aerlingus.com. aer Lingus customers now have three ways to purchase tickets for the car park at Cork airport: while booking their flight on aerlingus.com, via a tab on the aer Lingus homepage called “travel Essentials”, or after a booking is made via the travel advisory email which each customer receives following a flight booking made on aerlingus.com. For more information, visit aerlingus.com.


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iNFLiGHT

Movies

Flights to the UNiteD stAtes oZ THe GreAT ANd PoWerFUL Sci-Fi, Fantasy (PG) 127 minutes Oz The Great and Powerful imagines the origins of the beloved wizard, who debuted in film classic, The Wizard of Oz. Disney’s fantastical adventure Oz The Great and Powerful imagines the life of Oscar Diggs, a small-time circus magician with dubious ethics. Oscar is hurled away from dusty Kansas to the vibrant Land of Oz. He thinks he’s hit the jackpot until he meets three witches, who are not convinced he is the great wizard everyone’s been expecting. Putting his magical arts to use through illusion, ingenuity – and even a bit of wizardry – Oscar transforms himself not only into a great wizard but into a better man as well. STArS James Franco, Mila Kunis, Rachel Weisz, Michelle Williams, Zach Braff direcTor Sam Raimi

A Good dAy To die HArd Action (R)

STArS Bruce Willis, Jai Courtney, Sebastian Koch, Rasha Bukvic, Cole Hauser, Yulia Snigir

FATHer’S cHAir Drama (R) STArS Wagner Moura, Mariana Lima, Lima Duarte, Bras Moreau Antunes

ALviN ANd THe cHiPMUNkS: THe SqUeAkqUeL Family (PG)

ANd NoW A Word FroM oUr SPoNSor Comedy (NR)

voiceS oF Zach Levi, David Cross, Jason Lee, Justin Long, Amy Poehler, Anna Faris

STArS Bruce Greenwood, Parker Posey, Callum Blue

GrAbberS

THe GUiLT TriP

Comedy (NR)

Comedy (PG-13)

STArS Richard Coyle, Ruth Bradley, Russell Tovey

STArS Seth Rogen, Barbra Streisand, Colin Hanks, Adam Scott, Yvonne Strahovski, Danny Pudi

beAUTiFUL creATUreS

THe eNd oF Love

Fantasy (PG-13)

Drama (PG)

STArS Alice Englert, Emma Thompson, Viola Davis, Jeremy Irons

STArS Smyth Campbell, Michael Cera, Jocelin Donahue

FeATUriNG Ethel Kennedy, Rory Kennedy, John F. Kennedy

Horrid HeNry: THe Movie

iNeScAPAbLe

kNiFe FiGHT

Thriller (R)

Drama (R)

STArS Alexander Siddig, Marisa Tomei, Joshua Jackson, Oded Fehr

STArS Rob Lowe, Eric McCormack, Julie Bowen, Carrie-Anne Moss, Saffron Burrows, Jamie Chung, David Harbour, Richard Schiff

Family (PG) STArS Theo Stevenson, Anjelica Huston, Richard E. Grant, Noel Fielding, Parminder Nagra

THe LAST STANd

LeS MiSerAbLeS

THe Look oF Love

PAreNTAL GUidANce

Musical (PG-13)

Biopic (R)

Comedy (PG)

STArS Arnold Schwarzenegger, Eduardo Noriega, Forest Whitaker, Johnny Knoxville

STArS Hugh Jackman, Russell Crowe, Anne Hathaway

STArS Steve Coogan, Anna Friel, Imogen Poots, Tamsin Egerton, David Walliams, Stephen Fry

STArS Billy Crystal, Bette Midler, Marisa Tomei, Tome Everett Scott, Bailee Madison

Action (R)

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PeTer PAN Family (G)

voiceS oF Bobby Driscoll, Kathryn Beaumont, Hans Conreid

eTHeL Documentary (NR)

To mark THe GATHeriNG ireLANd 2013 – Aer Lingus presents Irish comedy Grabbers. Directed by Jon Wright, Grabbers is a monster comedy from Irish screenwriter Kevin Lehane.


Movies

Flights From the UNiteD stAtes PROMISED LAND Drama (R) 106 minutes

Promised Land is the new contemporary drama directed by Gus Van Sant (My Own Private Idaho, Good Will Hunting, Milk). Matt Damon plays Steve Butler, an ace corporate salesman who is sent along with his partner, Sue Thomason to close a key rural town in his company’s expansion plans. With the town having been hit hard by the economic decline of recent years, the two outsiders see the local citizens as likely to accept their company’s offer. What seems like an easy job for the duo becomes complicated by the objections of key local people. Written by Matt Damon and John Krasinski, Promised Land explores America at the crossroads where big business and the strength of small-town community converge. StARS Matt Damon, Frances McDormand, John Krasinski, Rosemarie DeWitt, Hal Holbrook DIREctOR Gus Van Sant

DON’t StOP BELIEvINg: EvERyMAN’S JOuRNEy

Family (G)

gANgStER SquAD

StARS Jonathan Cain, Deen Castronovo, Arnel Pineda

vOIcES OF Ericka Beck, Albert Brooks, Willem Dafoe, Ellen DeGeneres, Alexander Gould, Barry Humphries

StARS Sean Penn, Ryan Gosling, Emma Stone, Nick Nolte, Josh Brolin, Frank Grillo, Holt McCallany

JuMP

LIFE OF PI

MOBIuS

Drama (R)

Adventure (PG)

Thriller (NR)

StARS Nichola Burley, Martin McCann, Charlene McKenna, Valene Kane

StARS Suraj Sharma, Irrfan Khan, Adil Hussain

StARS Christophe Cervoni, Eric Juhérian, Mathias Rubin

Documentary (NR)

FINDINg NEMO

SIDE EFFEctS

SNItch

Thriller (R)

Action (PG-13)

StARS Jude Law, Channing Tatum, Catherine Zeta-Jones

StARS Dwayne Johnson, Susan Sarandon, Barry Pepper, Benjamin Bratt

Action (R)

IcE AgE: cONtINENtAL DRIFt Family (PG)

vOIcES OF Ray Romano, Denis Leary, John Leguizamo,

thE ODD LIFE OF tIMOthy gREEN Family (PG)

StARS Dianne Wiest, CJ Adams, Rosemarie DeWitt, Ron Livingston, M. Emmet Walsh

IDENtIty thIEF Comedy (R) StARS Jason Bateman, Jon Favreau, John Cho, Robert Patrick, Morris Chestnut, Amanda Peet

Adventure (PG-13) StARS Nicholas Hoult, Eleanor Tomlinson, Stanley Tucci, Ian McShane, Bill Nighy, Ewan McGregor

PARkER

PILgRIM hILL

Crime (R)

Drama (PG-13)

StARS Jason Statham, Jennifer Lopez, Nick Nolte, Michael Chiklis, Bobby Cannavale

StARS Joe Mullins, Muiris Crowley, Corina Gough, Kevin McCormack, Keith Byrne

StOkER

vAMPS

WARM BODIES

Comedy (PG-13)

Comedy (PG-13)

StARS Mia Wasikowska, Matthew Goode, Nicole Kidman, Jacki Weaver, Dermot Mulroney, Phyllis Somerville

StARS Alicia Silverstone, Sigourney Weaver, Krysten Ritter, Wallace Shawn, Malcolm McDowell

StARS Nicholas Hoult, Teresa Palmer, John Malkovich, Rob Corddry, Analeigh Tipton

Thriller (R)

JAck thE gIANt SLAyER

To mark thE gAthERINg IRELAND 2013 – Aer Lingus presents Jump – it follows the lives of four 20-something’s whose lives collide one night. Pilgrim hill focuses on a middle-aged farmer living in rural Ireland.

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INFLIGHT

Television

On demand

On Demand TV allows you to select and view your favourite TV shows. Don’t miss the most anticipated new shows on TV in this extensive choice of award-winning Comedy, Drama, Documentary, Lifestyle and Kids programmes.

America: The Story of the US

Mankind: The Story of All of Us

DOCUMENTARY HIGHLIGHTS In Documentary Highlights enter a world beyond imagination with award-winning and critically acclaimed documentaries – Untamed Americas, Beyond The Cosmo, Megastructures, Bird Brain, Harna’s Wildlife Rescue Camp and Living The Wildlife. Music documentary Hendrix on Hendrix and Sports documentary Enzo Ferrari Passion for Speed offer an insight into two very different men. Multiple episodes of Premium Factual documentaries are available On Demand. From History Channel enjoy three episodes of Mankind The Story of All of Us, the new mini-series narrated by Josh Brolin and Stephen

Fry. It looks at the story of the human race and uses realistic CGI to bring to life the most critical events in human history. History Channel also presents the Emmy award-winning America: The Story of the US, that looks at how the history of the United States was invented. From National Geographic Channel there are three episodes of the technology series Engineering Connections presented by Richard Hammond, and three episodes of Great Migrations, this series tells the formidable stories of many of the planet’s species and their movements, while also revealing new scientific discoveries.

The Meaning of Life

LIFESTYLE HIGHLIGHTS

Lifestyle highlights include History Channel favourites Pawn Stars and Shipping Wars. Don’t miss Project Runway, Grand Designs, Jamie’s 15 Minute Meals, Show Me Your Wardrobe, The Jo Whiley Music Show, Who Do You Think You Are?, The Meaning of Life (featuring Noel Gallagher), Race of Champions and HSBC Golfing World. To mark The Gathering 2013 Aer Lingus presents The Gathering: Homeward Bound which sees Trevor Brennan return to his roots, Other Voices: Villagers Special and four fascinating episodes of The Genealogy Roadshow.

DRAMA HIGHLIGHTS

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Handy Manny

KIDS HIGHLIGHTS Kids can enjoy Disney favourites Handy Manny and Doc McStuffins and from Monster Entertainment kids will love Funky Fables and Fluffy Gardens. Tweens and Teens can view Glee, Shake It Up and Disney’s Austin and Ally.

The Big Bang Theory

Ripper Street

As we witness a golden age in TV drama, Aer Lingus offers an engaging choice of Drama TV with multiple episodes available of the hottest drama from the US and UK. There are also one-off episodes to select from in The Mentalist, Boardwalk Empire, The Wire and Glee. Three episodes of brand new BBC Drama are available – Ripper Street is a compelling, gritty crime drama with high production values and a stellar cast. Set in Victorian London, this drama is fused with rich storylines that meld with the intrigue of a criminal underworld as it follows the battle of the men whose job it is to bring the law to the lawless. According to The Guardian, “Ripper Street is beautifully performed, and beautiful to look at – stylish, and stylised.” Ripper Street is filmed in Dublin.

Austin and Ally

COMEDY HIGHLIGHTS

Call the Midwife After fabulous ratings and reviews for the first series, the moving, funny and true-to-life look at the colourful stories of midwifery in East London in the 1950s continues in Call The Midwife. Three episodes from the award-winning second series are available On Demand. This is a fascinating portrayal of birth, life, death and a community on the brink of huge social change. Aer Lingus is proud to premiere the first three episodes of Season 3 of Game of Thrones. In Season 3, many critical plot points from the first two

seasons come to a head, with several major characters meeting cruel fates. This epic drama is set in a fantasy continent and is a truly thrilling journey through an unforgettable fictional landscape. Production and filming took place in Northern Ireland. Watch out for the first three episodes of brand new HBO Drama Banshee. This exciting new series charts the twists that follow recently paroled master jewel thief Lucas Hood. Described by the Hollywood Reporter as, “ … taut, entertaining and smart … hooks you immediately.”

Don’t miss two episodes of one of the hottest comedies of the moment from HBO in Enlightened starring Golden Globe winner Laura Dern. Also from HBO take a look at Veep and Curb Your Enthusiasm. More brand new comedy includes Modern Family, It’s Always Sunny in Philadelphia, Family Guy, New Girl, Louie, The Middle, The Big Bang Theory and Peep Show. As Lena Dunham’s awardwinning hit comedy series returns to HBO, Aer Lingus presents the first five episodes of Girls from the brand new Season 2. Girls follows the urban adventures of a group of 20-something NYC women. Season 2 is as addictive as ever and has become the cultural touchstone for a new generation. Take a trip back in time and enjoy Arrested Development and The IT Crowd starring Chris O’Dowd.


INFLIGHT

Radio

On demand 1970s

Indie/Alternative

Classical

Easy Listening

Fitzpatrick Hotels

That 70s Show

Indie Hits

John Kelly

This is a contemporary easy-listening collection of songs from both sides of the Atlantic, brought to you compliments of The Fitzpatrick Hotel Group USA. With two hotels in downtown Manhattan, Grand Central and Fitzpatrick Manhattan, Fitzpatrick’s is the place to stay in NYC. Visit their website for more information, fitzpatrickhotels.com. Fitzpatrick Hotels USA are also on Twitter & Facebook.

Take a trip back to the decade famous for flares and flower power in That 70s Show. Listen out for some seriously memorable gems from The Rolling Stones, Stevie Wonder, Pink Floyd, ABBA to Lou Reed, The Who and The Clash.

Tune into Indie Hits – an alternative selection of tunes from bands that have now gained cult status. Bands to listen out for include grunge gods Nirvana and the inimitable Pixies, as well as other US Indie gods – The Shins, The National and The Black Keys. Manchester’s finest of course make an appearance in the form of The Stone Roses and Oasis.

On RTÉ lyric fm, Kelly presents The John Kelly Ensemble every weekday afternoon between 2pm and 4pm. From Bach to Brian Eno, The John Kelly Ensemble transforms your afternoons with a sonic adventure like no other. Here, exclusively for Aer Lingus passengers, John provides a carefullychosen selection of classical music. You can find out more about John’s programmes on rte.ie/lyricfm or follow him on Twitter @johnkellytweets

Pop

Poetry

Talk Radio

Traditional Irish

Chart Hits

Irish Poetry Corner

Best of Moncrieff

Ceol na nGael

Chart Hits lifts the lid on the most up-to-the-minute Pop hits from both sides of the Atlantic. Listen out for your favourite artists in this compilation of smash hits. This exciting set of songs features hits from the world’s most successful artists including, Justin Timberlake, Nicole Scherzinger and One Direction. Also listen out for brand new songs from industry stalwarts Depeche Mode and David Bowie.

Poetry has been a passion in Ireland for a couple of thousand years. Brian Munn selects and reads verses from renowned Irish Poets – W.B. Yeats, Oliver Goldsmith, Percy French, Oscar Wilde and others of note. This unique selection is at times comic, romantic and always nostalgic. Enjoy this ensemble of Irish poetry produced especially for Aer Lingus to celebrate this remarkable Irish tradition.

Best of Moncrieff is a lively mix of funny, engaging and irreverent features. Its insightful format gives listeners a unique listening experience. Tune into Best of Moncrieff every weekday from 1.30-4.30pm on Newstalk 106-108fm for a lively mix of phone-ins, text messages and stories from around the world and down your street. Text 53106, email afternoon@ newstalk.ie or follow Sean on Twitter @SeanMoncrieff.

Ceol na nGael is a traditional music programme presented, in Irish, by Seán Ó hÉanaigh. Seán presents Sruth na Maoile on RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta. The station is the national Irish language broadcaster in Ireland, and is celebrating 40 years on air. Ceol traidisiúnta agus ceol tíre den scoth, le Seán Ó hÉanaigh. For more, visit rte.ie/rnag. Twitter @RTERnaG.

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INFLIGHT

Radio

On demand

Opera

Irish

Countdown

Documentary On One Documentary On One is the multi award winning radio documentary strand from RTÉ Radio 1 (88-90FM) and is currently the most successful documentary unit in the world – winning over 70 awards since 2009. The website rte.ie/doconone contains over 1,000 radio documentaries all freely available to listen/podcast. You can also download the all new and free Documentary On One for iPhone and/or Android app. The documentaries featured are “Kerry and The Tramp”, “Fire and Water” and “Kenmare Street”. rte.ie/doconone.

The Big 10 98FM’s Big 10 is presented by Claire Solan, the voice of the Dublin airwaves and presenter of many well-known TV shows. In this special programme commissioned for Aer Lingus, Claire uses the theme of The Gathering 2013 and remembers previous events and gatherings that have brought Ireland and Irish people together over the past decades. We hope you enjoy the music, moments and memories. For more on Claire and 98FM, visit 98fm.com

Opera Night

Homecoming

In Tales from the Opera RTÉ lyric fm presenter Liz Nolan visits the history of this spectacular art. She presents an opera, a story, a glimpse into the lives of the characters, both real and imaginary, who have shaped the form as we know it today ...”Poor Butterfly” smirked Noel Coward. But can any of us remain unmoved by a story of such desperate sadness? Tales from the Opera pays homage to Puccini’s Madama Butterfly.

Homecoming is a nostalgic mix of famous Irish songs selected especially for The Gathering 2013. Whether you live in Ireland, are coming home to visit relatives and friends or discover your Irish roots – these Irish classics are sure to conjure up memories of days gone by. This show represents the cream of Irish talent from U2, The Pogues, The Cranberry’s, Horslips, The Dubliners, The Saw Doctors to Rory Gallagher and many more. Enjoy Coming Home with Homecoming.

Kids

Alternative

Jazz

Folk, Roots

RTÉ Jr

Phantom

Jazz Alley

Roots Freeway

Join Audrey and Ogie in The Cosy Corner to enter a world of sleepy and comforting music that’s sure to help little ones drift to the Land of Nod. The Cosy Corner has plenty of sleepy-time stories and meditations from all over the world; including soothing Irish lullabies. All of the lullabies are chosen especially for sleepyheads flying all over the world. So get your pillow and your blanket and get comfortable in the Cosy Corner … it’s going to be a relaxing flight. rte.ie/rtejr/listen

Phantom 105.2 is the home of very best music on Irish radio. Phantom is committed to playing new music, Indie Rock and alternative music for Dublin. Claire Beck brings you through a selection of what you will hear on Dublin’s alternative Radio Station! Claire presents Phantom Drive, daily from 3pm on Phantom 105.2. Turn it on and try something different! Phantom 105.2 – phantom.ie!

Take a walk down Jazz Alley with Donald Helme, featuring the best in classic and contemporary jazz. Focusing on the curious, quirky, obscure, and neglected Jazz Alley broadcasts on Ireland’s dedicated classical music station, RTÉ lyric fm, each Wednesday evening at 7pm. Donald Helme’s lifelong enthusiasm for jazz began in the 1950s with Count Basie, and blossomed from there to include almost all aspects of this absorbing and important music.

Niall Toner presents Roots Freeway on RTÉ Radio 1, Ireland’s mostlistened-to radio station; Saturday nights at 11pm. Roots Freeway is an eclectic mix of Folk, Bluegrass, Blues and Roots Music. Toner is, first and foremost, a music fan, but he is also a songwriter and a musician in his own right, playing guitar and mandolin with his own band, The Niall Toner Band.

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INFLIGHT

Wellbeing Aer Lingus is pleased to bring you some suggestions and light exercises to enhance your comfort and wellbeing during your flight: Wear loose-fitting clothes on board, to all your skin to breathe. Stretch your legs by taking a stroll through the cabin. Circle your ankles clockwise and anti-clockwise. Trace the letters of the alphabet with your foot by moving your ankles. Exercising your feet and

legs periodically helps to reduce possible effects of long-duration travel. Avoid sitting or sleeping in the same position for too long and gently stretch muscles to improve your circulation. Move your neck and shoulders during long flights to prevent stiffness.

Reducing the effects of Jet Lag: Avoid heavy food, alcohol, tea or coffee the day before you travel. When you arrive at your destination, try to adjust your activities to the new time zone. Mild exercise on arrival will help to stimulate your circulation.

We wish you an enjoyable experience.

Travel Tips It is important to take time to reduce your risk of getting sick. Various viruses are thought to spread mainly from person to person through coughing, sneezing, or close contact with the flu. Here are some everyday preventative actions you can take to help slow the spread of germs that cause respiratory illness, like flu: Cover your nose and mouth when you cough and sneeze. This will help to prevent the spread of droplets that contain germs. Wash your hands often with soap and water. If soap and water are not available use an alcohol–based hand rub. Avoid touching your eyes, nose and mouth, this can cause the spread of germs. An important step is to get a flu vaccination, especially for elderly people, people with certain chronic health conditions, and pregnant women.

Carry-on baggage Carry-on baggage on Aer Lingus services is restricted to one piece per person, as well as to the weights and measurements, illustrated below.

Passengers with wheelchair requirements Our priority is to always ensure the safety and comfort of all passengers. We encourage passengers who may need assistance to contact us well in advance of their date of travel to enable us to assess their needs.

Maximum weight

10kg 55cm (22ins)

If you are a wheelchair user or require wheelchair assistance when travelling on Aer Lingus services, please advise us of your requirements at least 48 hours in advance, quoting your booking reference number. Our contact details are as follows: email: specialassistance@aerlingus.com Telephone: (Ireland) 0818 365 011 08:00 - 18:00 Mon-Fri & 09:00 - 17:00 Sat & Sun (UK) 0871 718 20 21 (Europe) + 353 1 886 8333 (USA) 516 622 4222

AER LINGUS

AER LINGUS REGIONAL

48cm (19ins)

40cm (16ins)

7kg (15 lbs)

(22 lbs)

24cm (9ins)

Maximum weight

20cm (8ins)

33cm (13ins)

In addition you may choose to carry on one of the following, which must be placed under the seat in front: Small ladies handbag/gents satchel = 25cm (10”) x 33cm (13”) x 20cm (8”) OR Duty Free shopping bag as well as: Baby-changing/food bag Medical/assistive devices EU security rules regarding liquids, gels and aerosols in cabin baggage apply. Flights departing the USA are subject to TSA security rules. Passengers in Row 1, or at an emergency exit, MUST store baggage in an overhead bin.

Safety brief We would like to bring your attention to the following safety and security measures: Please pay attention to any instructions given to you by the cabin crew. Any behaviour towards a fellow passenger or cabin crew that is deemed to be threatening or abusive (including the use of offensive language) is a serious matter. As our priority is the safety of all passengers, it is important not to interrupt the cabin crew while they carry out their duties, and not to interfere with aircraft equipment.

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As a service to passengers, alcohol is served in the airport lounges and on board. In the interests of safety, Aer Lingus may refuse to allow you board if it is thought too much alcohol has been consumed. While the majority of passengers are responsible, there have occasionally been incidents where intoxicated passengers have caused serious safety hazards. Passengers are reminded also that during the flight you may not consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or any other

passenger. The consumption inflight of Duty Free alcohol purchased from the Sky Shopping service is also prohibited. This measure is, again, necessary in the interests of flight safety. If incidents of this kind occur during a flight, the cabin crew is obliged to contact police on arrival at your final destination. The Aircraft Captain may also divert the flight enroute in order to remove disruptive passengers. Should this happen, Aer Lingus will not

be responsible for getting you home, your ticket money will not be refunded, and – in addition to the authorities awaiting you on landing – you could be heavily fined and/or be liable to a prison sentence. In many cases, other airlines may subsequently refuse to allow you to fly with them. We emphasise that while on board the aircraft our priority is your safety. As always, we wish you a safe and enjoyable flight, as well as a safe onward journey.


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HERE’S SOMETHING TO SLEEP ON. Check-in your bags the night before you travel.

Now with Evening Before Check-In from Aer Lingus, you can check in your baggage the day before you travel. If you are flying between 6 and 8am from Dublin, simply check in your luggage at the airport between 4 and 8pm the evening before you fly. Then, relax and get a good night’s sleep, knowing you have a stress-free travel day ahead. To find out more, visit aerlingus.com.

Evening Before Check-In

Great Care. Great Fare.


INFLIGHT

Route maps

EUROPEAN ROUTE NETWORK Helsinki Stockholm

Aberdeen Glasgow

Kerry

Edinburgh

Copenhagen

Isle of Man Blackpool DUBLIN Manchester London Birmingham HEATHRoW

Hamburg

Amsterdam London Dusseldorf SouTHEND Bristol Bournemouth London GATWICK Brussels Frankfurt

Berlin

Warsaw

Cardiff

Jersey

Paris

Rennes

Stuttgart

Prague

Munich

Vienna

Zurich Geneva Lyon

Bordeaux Bilbao

Santiago de Compostela

Toulouse Perpignan Madrid

Faro

Milan lan

Marseille MALPENSA Nice

Venice Verona Ve Bologna Dubrovnik

Bourgas

Rome

Barcelona

Ibiza

Lisbon

Milan

LINATE

Budapest

Naples

Palma

Corfu Izmir

Alicante

Catania

Malaga

Athens

Agadir Lanzarote Tenerife

Fuerteventura Gran Canaria

To & From Dublin Austria Vienna

Czech Republic Prague

Belgium Brussels

Denmark Copenhagen

Bulgaria Bourgas

Finland Helsinki

Canary Islands Fuerteventura Gran Canaria Lanzarote Tenerife

France Bordeaux Lyon Marseille Nice Paris Perpignan Toulouse ■ Rennes

Croatia Dubrovnik

Germany Berlin Dusseldorf Frankfurt Hamburg Munich Stuttgart Greece Athens Corfu Hungary Budapest Ireland ■ Kerry

Italy Bologna Catania Milan (Linate) Milan (Malpensa) Naples Rome Venice Verona The Netherlands Amsterdam Morocco Agadir Poland Warsaw

Portugal Faro Lisbon

Switzerland Geneva Zurich

Spain Alicante Barcelona Bilbao Ibiza Madrid Malaga Palma Santiago de Compostela

Turkey Izmir

Sweden Stockholm

United Kingdom Birmingham London (Gatwick) London (Heathrow) Jersey Manchester ■ United Kingdom Aberdeen Birmingham Blackpool Bournemouth Bristol Cardiff Edinburgh Glasgow Isle of Man London Southend

■ Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann For more information on schedules, please visit www.aerlingus.com

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INFLIGHT

EUROPEAN ROUTE NETWORK

Edinburgh

Knock

BELFAST Manchester

Dublin

Birmingham

SHANNON Bristol London Heathrow

CORK

Amsterdam

LONdON GATWICK

Brussels

Jersey

Paris

Rennes

Munich

Geneva

Nice

Barcelona Palma Lisbon Faro

Alicante Malaga

Lanzarote

Tenerife

Las Palmas

To & From Belfast, Cork, Shannon & Gatwick FROM BELFAST Flights operate from George Best Belfast City Airport

Portugal Faro Spain Malaga Palma United Kingdom London Heathrow London Gatwick

FROM CORK Belgium Brussels Canary Islands Lanzarote Tenerife Las Palmas France Nice Paris ■ Rennes Germany Munich

FROM GATWICK Portugal Faro Lisbon Spain Alicante Barcelona Malaga Palma Switzerland Geneva

United Kingdom London Heathrow ■ United Kingdom Birmingham Bristol Edinburgh Glasgow Jersey Manchester

Ireland Belfast Cork Dublin Ireland West Airport (Knock)

FROM SHANNON United Kingdom London Heathrow ■ United Kingdom Birmingham Edinburgh Manchester

FROM KNOCK ■ United Kingdom Birmingham London Gatwick

Portugal Faro

The Netherlands Amsterdam ■ Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann

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July 2013


USA ROUTE NETWORK

Chicago

Boston New York

Shannon

Dublin

Orlando

To & From Dublin & Shannon FROM DUBLIN

FROM SHANNON

USA Boston Chicago New York Orlando

USA Boston New York (Via New York/Boston with JetBlue)

Chicago Orlando

July 2013

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inFLight

CONNECTING EUROPE, USA & CANADA Edmonton

Calgary Winnipeg Vancouver Seattle Portland OR

Minneapolis Milwaukee

San Francisco San Jose

Oakland

Burbank Long Beach Orange County

Detroit

Burlington Toronto Buffalo

Syracuse Ro Rochester

Portland ME

Boston Pi Pittsburgh Nantucket Philadelphia neW York Des Moines Salt Lake City Indianapolis Columbus Baltimore Cincinnati ncinna Washington Greensboro Wichita Saint Louis Denver DuLLES uis Washington Wa NATIONAL Louisville Lexington Lex Richmond Ri Nashville Tulsa Raleigh - Durham Ra Las Vegas Oklahoma City Charlotte arlo Knoxville Memphis Omaha

Sacramento

Grand Rapids

Los Angeles Santa Ana San Diego

Phoenix

ChiCago

Cleveland Dayton on

Dallas (Fort Worth)

Atlanta Charleston

Austin

Houston

New Orleans

San Antonio

Jacksonville Orlando

Tampa Fort Myers

West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale Miami

Aguadilla

San Juan Ponce Po

FLY BETWEEN THE FOLLOWING CITIES VIA DUBLIN, SHANNON, NEW YORK, BOSTON & CHICAGO new destinations with aer Lingus, in partnership with JetBlue, United airlines and aer arann Getting to the uS from destinations throughout Europe has never been easier. uS, Irish and European based customers can book a single low fare reservation between Ireland, Europe and a wide range of continental uS destinations using JFK New York, Boston and Chicago as stopovers. By choosing to fly to the united States via Dublin and Shannon with Aer Lingus, passengers can avail of united States Customs and Immigration Pre-clearance facilities at

Terminal 2, Dublin airport. This facility allows passengers travelling on the majority of uS bound flights to clear uS immigration and customs before departing Dublin and Shannon. Customers arrive in the uS without any further processing requirement allowing for a seamless transfer to their final destination. ■ neW York Connecting with JetBlue at JFk: Passengers travelling from the uS to Ireland and Europe will be able to check in bags at the JetBlue domestic departure point and then pick them up again in Shannon or Dublin. From april 3 2013, aer

Lingus flight operations will move from terminal 4 at John F. kennedy international airport into JetBlue’s acclaimed terminal 5, at JFk. ■ Boston Connecting with JetBlue at Boston Logan international airport: When you arrive from Dublin or Shannon, proceed directly to Terminal C for your JetBlue domestic departure. Passengers travelling from the uS to Ireland and Europe will be able to check in bags at the JetBlue departure point and then pick them up again in Shannon or Dublin.

■ ChiCago Connecting with United airlines at o’hare Chicago international airport: On arrival at Terminal Five from Dublin or Shannon, make your way to the nearby ATS (Airport Transit System), which runs every four minutes to your uA domestic departure point. Passengers from the uS to Ireland and Europe can check in bags at the uA departure point, then exit security in Chicago O’Hare to take the Airport Transit System to Terminal Five for the onward Aer Lingus flight, and pick up their bags in Shannon or Dublin.

■ DUBLin Connecting with aer Lingus regional (operated by Aer Arann) at Dublin airport: Aer Lingus’s interline agreement with Aer Arann allows passengers connect to Aer Lingus transatlantic flights via Dublin Airport, where they can through check their luggage directly to their final uS destination.

All routes correct at time of going to press

128 |

July 2013


stockholm

edinburgh

Glasgow

Isle of Man Hamburg

Manchester

Dublin Birmingham

Shannon kerry

london

london souTHenD london

cardiff Bristol

Berlin

amsterdam

HeaTHrow

GaTwIck

warsaw

Dusseldorf Brussels Frankfurt

paris Vienna

Munich

Geneva Milan

Malpensa

Milan

Venice

lInaTe

Marseille

santiago De compostela

rome

Barcelona

Madrid

naples

palma alicante Faro

■ Via Dublin with aer lingus                          

alicante amsterdam Barcelona Berlin Birmingham Brussels Dusseldorf edinburgh Faro Frankfurt Geneva Hamburg london (Gatwick) london (Heathrow) Madrid Malaga Manchester Marseille Milan linate Milan Malpensa Munich naples palma paris rome santiago de compostela

   

Malaga

stockholm Venice Vienna warsaw

■ Via Dublin with aer lingus Regional       

Bristol cardiff edinburgh Glasgow Isle of Man london southend kerry

■ Via Shannon with aer lingus  london (Heathrow) ■ Via Shannon with aer lingus Regional    

Manchester Birmingham Bristol edinburgh

■ Via new YoRk with Jetblue                           

aguadilla austin Baltimore Boston Buffalo Burbank Burlington charlotte chicago Denver Fort lauderdale Fort Myers Houston Jacksonville las Vegas long Beach los angeles nantucket new orleans oakland orlando phoenix pittsburg ponce portland Me portland or raleigh-Durham

          

rochester sacramento salt lake city san Diego san Francisco san Jose san Juan seattle syracuse Tampa west palm Beach

■ Via boSton with Jetblue               

Baltimore Buffalo charleston charlotte chicago Dallas Fort worth Denver Ford lauderdale Fort Myers Jacksonville las Vegas long Beach los angeles nantucket new orleans

                

oakland orlando philadelphia phoenix pittsburg portland or raleigh-Durham richmond salt lake city san Diego san Francisco san Jose san Juan seattle Tampa washington (Dulles) washington (national)  west palm Beach

■ Via ChiCago with united to uSa       

atlanta austin charlotte charleston cincinnati chicago cleveland

                             

columbus Dallas (Fort worth) Dayton Denver Des Moines Detroit Fort Myers Grand rapids Greensboro Houston Indianapolis Jacksonville kansas city knoxville las Vegas lexington los angeles louisville Memphis Miami Milwaukee Minneapolis nantucket nashville new orleans oklahoma city omaha orange county phoenix pittsburgh

              

portland or raleigh-Durham rochester sacramento salt lake city san antonio san Diego san Francisco san Jose santa ana seattle st louis Tampa Tulsa wichita

■ Via ChiCago with united to Canada      

calgary edmonton salt lake city Toronto Vancouver winnipeg

■ Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann July 2013

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INFLIGHT

Middle east and australasia route network

Dublin

Bahrain Abu Dhabi

Muscat

Kuala Lumpur Singapore

FROM DUBLIN

VIa aBU DHaBI TO:

Abu Dhabi

Muscat Kuala Lumpur Singapore Bahrain Sydney Melbourne

Flights are operated by our codeshare partner, Etihad Airways.

130 |

July 2013

Sydney Melbourne


Come dine in one of Ireland’s definitive Italian experiences, brought to you by Eileen Dunne, Stefano Crescenzi & David Izzo

A cosy Italian restaurant & extensive wine bar. 14-16 South Frederick Street, D2. Tel: +353 (1) 6759892 11 Seafort Avenue, Sandymount, D4. Tel: +353 (1) 6673252

www.dunneandcrescenzi.com

U.S. IMMIGRATION LAWYERS

Traditional Italian trattoria restaurant, homemade pasta & delicious healthy pizza 26 Lower Ormond Quay, D1. Tel: +353 (1) 8741000 Mayor Square, IFSC, D1. Tel: +353 (1) 6702887

www.baritalia.ie

Specializing in advising on U.S. immigration law and drafting U.S. visa applications for: • • • • •

Professionals Executives Investors Intra-company transferees Multi-national managers

• • • •

Family-based petitions Interns and trainees Artists Outstanding individuals in athletics, business, entertainment and science

Excellent track record representing top Irish companies and individuals. Personal service and fast turnaround assured.

A workshop of cutting edge Italian food, using only the finest ingredients Town Square, Dundrum Town Centre, Dublin 18. Tel: +353 (1) 216 6764 Unit 35, Kildare Village, Co. Kildare. Tel: +353 45 535850

www.officina.ie

OFFICES IN NEW YORK CITY AND KILKENNY, IRELAND

New York T: 212 965-1148

Kilkenny T: 056-7767994

MEMBER OF AMERICAN IMMIGRATION LAWYERS ASSOCIATION

www.obrienandassociates.com

“Dunne and Crescenzi has changed the way the Irish eat” TomDoorley,The IrishTimes

‘’They brought the real Italian food to Ireland’’

Food&WineMagazine

‘’Pioneering & Reigning’’

The New York Times


InFlIGHt

Flight Connections

CONNECTING TO ANOTHER AER LINGUS FLIGHT AT DUBLIN AIRPORT FLIGHTS ARRIvING AT TERmINAL 2 FLIGhT ConnECTIonS Connecting flight departs Gates 401 - 426 Arrivals Route to Baggage Reclaim from Gates 400s

FLIGhT ConnECTIonS Connecting flight departs Gates 100s - 300s

To Gates 100s 300s

Immigration

Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk

Immigration

Security Check

Lifts to Gates 401 - 426 Escalator to Gates 401 - 426

Terminal 2 Arrivals

If you already have a boarding card for your connecting flight, and your baggage has been tagged to your final destination, simply follow the sign for Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk, which you will see on your left hand side as you enter the Immigration Hall. By following this sign, you will proceed to Immigration and Security Check. After clearing these points, check the information screens and proceed to your boarding gate.

If your baggage has not been tagged to your final destination you must clear Immigration, enter the baggage reclaim area, collect your bag, exit through the Customs hall and proceed to Aer Lingus check-in on the departures level. Once you have reached the departures level, check the information screens for your onward flight information, and proceed as directed to the appropriate check-in desk.

If you have any queries, or need further assistance, please go to the Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk, which is located in the baggage reclaim area in Terminal 2, where our staff will be glad to help.

Please note: eU regulations concerning the carriage of liquids apply to your connecting flights at Dublin airport

Connecting at Heathrow Airport Transferring to an international flight at Heathrow? Please disembark from the rear of the aircraft where a dedicated coach will take you to the Heathrow Flight Connections area and reduce your journey time by an average of 20 minutes. Please disembark From THe BACK oF THe airCraFT iF:

Please disembark From THe FRONT oF THe airCraFT iF:

 You are an international connecting passenger and all your luggage* is checked through to your final destination

    

*Pushchairs checked to London can be collected from the back of the aircraft

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July 2013

london is your final destination Your onward connection is to a domestic Uk airport Your luggage needs to be collected from Heathrow You would like to leave the airport between flights You or someone you are travelling with needs special assistance


Cloghan Castle 20 mins from Dublin

Re-live the adventure of a lifetime Come experience the Shackleton Endurance Exhibition - the most extraordinary maritime rescue in history.

C

loghan Castle is an exclusive, self catering venue ideal for that Fairytale Wedding or Party, the self catering option gives the unique opportunity to tailor your day to have it your way! Banquet Hall can seat up to 120 guests with 7 double bedrooms uniquely decorated giving an authentic castle experience in a luxurious way with central heating throughout. Ceremony and Drinks reception can be held on the battlements, in the courtyard, in our landscaped gardens or in our cosy Drawing Room with an Open Fire.

Intl Tel: + 353 91 870102 Email: info@cloghancastle.com Proprietor: Micheal H Burke, Chanelle Group Contact us for our Special Offers: www.cloghancastle.com

R A I LT O U R S

Sir Ernest Shackleton

Endurance

IRELAND

First Class!

Triumph against all odds

1914-1917

Ferry Terminal Building, Dún Laoghaire

T: +353 1 236 0544 www.shackletonexhibition.com

American Restaurant & Bar

A FREE APPETISER for one with a main course purchased on production of your boarding pass Terms and conditions apply

BLANCHARDSTOWN CENTRE Dublin 15. Tel: 01 822 5990 ST STEPHENS GREEN Dublin 2. Tel: 01 478 1233 TEMPLE BAR Fleet St, Dublin 2. Tel: 01 672 8975 DUNDRUM TOWN CENTRE Tel: 01 298 7299 SWORDS Airside, Swords, Co Dublin Tel: 01 840 8525 BELFAST Level 2, Victoria Square, Tel: 028 9024 9050 www.fridays.ie

Book Today - Travel Tomorrow

• Cliffs of Moher & Bunratty • Waterford & Kilkenny • Cork & Blarney Castle • The Giant's Causeway • The Ring of Kerry • The Aran Islands • Connemara & Galway Bay • The Wicklow Mountains ONE DAY TOURS TO Blarney Castle NINE DAY TOURS FROM and Gardens DUBLIN Cliffs of Moher

Car Free - Care Free

www.railtoursireland.com

TEL:DUBLIN + 353-1-856 0045 e-mail: info@railtoursireland.com in association with (Irish Rail)

ACADEMY GRAFTON A CADEMY OF DRESS DESIGNING CREATIVITY 75 YEARS OF CREA TIVITY

tm

(Establ: 1938)

dublin 2 cork blanchardstown dundrum belfast bel

Michelin Bib Gourmand

PROFESSIONAL P RO FASHION DESIGN DIPLOMA 3yrs

rade For the Irish & International Clothing T Trade attern Drafting & Also Short courses in P Pattern eeekends, throughout Sewing, Evenings, W Weekends, year & Summer day courses.

with over 135 cafes around the world, there’s always something happening at the hard rock.

6 Herbert Place, Dublin 2 Teel:+353 16763653 / 6767940 Email: info@graftonacademyy.com .

12 Fleet Street • Temple Bar • Dublin 2 • Tel: 671 7777 • hardrock.com

www w.graftonacademy .g y.com .


INFLIGHT

Flight Connections at New York JohN F keNNedY airport

departures

arrivals

From April 3 2013, Aer Lingus will operate from Terminal 5 at New York’s JFK Airport. While known as JetBlue’s T5, Aer Lingus will have its own dedicated area within the terminal, allowing for easy check in, baggage handling and seamless connections to destinations within the United States and Puerto Rico. With the move to T5, the minimum connection time from European arrivals to connecting JetBlue markets will be reduced to just 60 minutes. Customers traveling to Ireland will enjoy JetBlue connections as fast as 40 minutes.

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July 2013

The award-winning, stateof-the-art Terminal 5 offers great features and amenities, including:  Up to 15 security lanes  26 gates with seats aplenty  Free Wi-Fi  55,000 sq. feet of great food and shopping  Large children’s play area and much more!


INFLIGHT

Sekonda Chronograph Men’s Dress Watch This watch has a classic design and the chromed metal case is complemented with a brown and cream dial. The one-second chronograph and 24-hour readout are highlighted with cream sub dials. The watch is finished with a brown padded leather strap and is waterresistant to 50 metres. Guaranteed for 2 years.

Celtic Circles Pendant & Earrings Set by Trinity & Co. This exquisite set radiates feminine beauty. The pendant’s gold-plated shamrocks are carefully placed in Celtic circles. The matching shamrock earrings have a clear crystal for extra sparkle. Wear your good luck wherever you go.

Sekonda Crystalla Women’s Watch with FREE matching pendant A stone set case with mother-of-pearl dial is enhanced with the crystal ball cord bracelet. This watch fits all wrists and is adjusted by pulling open the bracelet and then pulling the beaded strings to your desired size. A free matching pendant makes this set an ideal evening accessory or a perfect gift. Guaranteed for 2 years.

Sky Shopping Aer Lingus welcomes you to our extensive range of amazing quality items onboard during July.

Please check your Sky Shopping brochure for all prices philosophy all stars by philosophy

Daisy Sunshine

The best cosmetic is great looking skin. Our scientifically proven skin care is designed to give you the best skin of your life. In three simple steps you can achieve radiantly clear, beautifully bright, impeccably smooth skin. Always be your best.

Daisy Marc Jacobs has a sparkling floral bouquet. A fragrance that transports you to a place where positive meets playful, Daisy brings a smile to your face! Sunny, happy, free.

50ml EDT by Marc Jacobs

July 2013

| 135


Trip of a life Time | JoSH riTTer

Harvest Home

Singer-songwriter Josh Ritter travels the world but he has never seen a place as magical and raw as the Idaho farmland where he grew up chasing dust devils. he panhandle of northern Idaho, my home state, sits along the Continental Divide, from where the rivers running down the eastern slopes traversing the continent wash into the Gulf of Mexico, while the rivers running west empty into the Pacific. As a boy I was fascinated by this bit of geographical certainty, and hoped someday to choose a stream and follow it somewhere exotic, be it New Orleans or Seattle. Eventually, as a touring musician, I got the chance to do just that. But creeks and streams aren’t the only tributaries ruled so mysteriously by birth. In the 15 years that I’ve been on the road, my heart’s blood has always flowed towards home, to the farmland country we call the Palouse. I’ll get it out of the way. Idaho is famous for potatoes. It’s on our licence plates. But the Palouse region, with its giant rolling hills that resemble Saharan dunes of rich, coffee-black soil, is known for its

T

136 |

July 2013

lentils, chickpeas and, most of all, wheat. An early spring drive down state highway 95, from the old lumber town of Potlatch to Viola, will open vistas of billowing white hills, the crest of each carrying an almost imperceptible halo of vibrant green as the new blades of wheat pierce their way into the world. By April, this feather-soft green will seem a memory of almost impossible innocence, so vibrant and violently emerald have the fields become, so charged with oxygen is the air. As the earth rolls over into summer and we roll on south from Viola, the fields, dappled by the shadow of a maverick cloud or a solitary red-tail hawk, seem to catch and keep the newly angled sunlight until, cresting Saddle Ridge Road and looking down on Moscow, we can see that the tops of hills have turned golden. It is as if the green was only thinly laid on new brass. Past Moscow, grain elevators, barns and farmhouses dot the landscape. Genesee, a neat and hardy little town, stands away off and, past that,

For Josh Ritter, above, right, the feather-soft greens and rolling hills of his home country in the Palouse, Idaho, outshine all other places.

the world ends and the farmland is swallowed by Hells Canyon. During July and August, when the temperatures climb as high as a hundred degrees and the air is desert dry, the crops bake. This is the season for dust devils, which whirl up from the ground as if cast out of the earth. Like a city kid chasing pigeons, as a boy I would run to try to catch one, but those tiny cyclones were always two steps too wily. In September, the yearly cycle reaches its climax. The giant combines start up and stay running for the rest of the month as farmers and field hands race the weather. The season is beginning to change and, although it is still hot, there is a new wind on the air, blowing chaff and bits of gravel and dirt. The wheat harvested, the hay baled, the stubble is all that remains, and now the stubble is set on fire. For a week the sky is a flaming orange, and the clouds are gilt. The world is filled with smoke. If it should rain, and often there is one good, torrential burst during this time, what pours from the sky is true farmland. You can stand in the rain in the Moscow, Idaho grocery store parking lot and be covered with the dirt of home, and this is what I’ve come to say: I travel the world and I see many beautiful things. There is no place as beautiful, as operatic, magical and raw as the Palouse, at harvest time. Josh Ritter’s album The Beast in Its Tracks is out now. Josh Ritter and the Royal City Band play at the Iveagh Gardens, Dublin, on July 19; tickets from ticketmaster.ie


hertz.ie/aerlingus


.

-

~路.


Cara July 2013