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July 2017






Welcome to Ireland from AIB Corporate Banking

Mick Murray Head of AIB International Corporate Banking or +353 (1) 641 4248

Simon Scroope Head of AIB Corporate Banking or +353 (1) 641 4219

AIB International Corporate Banking can help you build a powerful presence in Ireland. To see how our dedicated team can work with you, contact Simon or Mick.

Allied Irish Banks, p.l.c. is regulated by the Central Bank of Ireland.



8 WELCOME Aer Lingus news

11 ARRIVALS We welcome travellers at Dublin’s T2 – were you there?

62 Glasgow Surprises

15 CHECK IN Dust off your diary for this month’s hottest events 26 MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK Playwright Enda Walsh 28 WEEKENDER Action girl Melanie conquers her fears at Delphi Resort 30 SHELF LIFE Bridget Hourican’s literary round-up 32 5 GOOD REASONS Eoin Higgins – deeply dishy in Chicago 34 AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO LONDON Gemma A Williams shows us around her stomping ground 36 AMERICAN IDOL In honour of July 4, Lucy White raises a glass to classic American bars


38 MASTER INSTINCT Tony Clayton-Lea meets actor Cillian Murphy

44 SLAY TO THE RHYTHM Niall Byrne gets down with Ireland’s new music makers 52 HARNESSING THE BOYNE SPIRIT Aoife Carrigy samples the region’s new booze produce 62 GREAT SCOT! Karl Geary’s guide to his adopted hometown, Glasgow

44 Woah Loah!

78 POETIC PASSAGES Deirdre Conroy follows in literary footsteps across New Hampshire and Connecticut 88 HAMBURG Eoin Higgins explores the German cosmopolis

78 Elegant USA


72 YOU SAY, WE SAY Fionn Davenport’s best beach bites

98 5 BEST LIDOS Melanie Mullan dips her toes into outdoor pools


Hamburg Highlights


107 BUSINESS & LIFE Clare O’Dea Swiss-swoos at Geneva 114 A DAY IN THE LIFE David De Valera’s Circulate snapshot

102 48 HOURS IN MIAMI Nancy Rockett’s eats, sleeps and nightcaps

116 TRAVEL HOT LIST Lisa Hughes’ executive orders

123 AER LINGUS INFLIGHT On-board info and entertainment

118 SLEEPS & EATS Hooray for Proper Hollywood Residences, sings Melanie Mullan

152 TRIP OF A LIFETIME Pentathlon wonderwoman Natalya Coyle reflects on her Brazil Olympics experience

120 SIX THINGS I’VE LEARNT Cyberpsychologist Mary Aiken shares her work/life wisdom

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CARA Magazine July 2017


The summer holidays are here at last and Aer Lingus is there for every step of your family’s journey. elcome aboard, and thank you for choosing to fly with us today. Peak summer has arrived and we are delighted to welcome so many of our guests on board as you embark on your holidays. Here are some helpful tips on just some of the ways we can help you have a pleasant trip.



We appreciate that this can be a stressful part of the travel experience so for your peace of mind, Aer Lingus has an evening before check-in service available to passengers travelling from Dublin and Cork airports. Ideal for families, this service gives guests the opportunity to complete their check-in transaction at the airport the night before their flight, leaving them virtually hasslefree on the morning that they travel. For added convenience, only one immediate family member needs to check-in for their group, once all tickets, passports and bags are provided together. This service is part of Aer Lingus’ Family First initiative, which also includes half-price checked bags and seat selection. Meanwhile, all individual passengers must be present for evening check-in with tickets, passports and baggage. EXPRESS BAG DROP

Make check-in a breeze this summer by using Aer Lingus’ Express Bag Drop service at Dublin Airport. Once you have your boarding card printed or downloaded to your mobile, simply self-tag and check-

in your bags. In a matter of minutes, or even seconds, you can complete the checkin process, deposit your bag and proceed swiftly towards Departures. BE FIRST IN THE QUEUE TO BOARD

Aer Lingus offers a pre-boarding facility to families travelling with infants and young children, and also to passengers who may require special assistance. Buggies can be dropped off at the gate prior to departure, and delivered to the gate on arrival, where the operation allows.

SCREEN DREAM Aer Lingus and the Irish Film Board are excited to launch an Irish Filmmaker Competition to support the talent of up-and-coming filmmakers.


We all reap the benefits of keeping the kids entertained throughout the journey. If travelling long-haul, enjoy the very latest inflight entertainment with a dedicated kids’ section packed full of endless movies, games and popular TV shows for all ages. If travelling on our European flights, having a tablet handy can be a welcome distraction for children during short-haul flights – download a favourite film or TV programme before travelling. TASTY TREAT

A tasty treat is always a guaranteed hit for kids, and Aer Lingus offers a Child Snack Pack as part of its Bia menu. Along with lots of great nibbles, it also includes an activity sheet and colouring pencils to help keep our younger guests amused.

LOYAL WELCOME Have you signed up for AerClub yet? Reap great awards with our loyalty programme, redeeming points across a range of travel, retail and hospitality partners.

So, enjoy the summer – and bon voyage. Follow us on Twitter @AerLingus

LA-LA LANDINGS So popular is our direct service to Los Angeles that it’s running every day throughout the summer months. Hollywood here you come … 8 |


EDITORIAL Editor Lucy White Deputy Editor Eoin Higgins Assistant Editor Melanie Mullan Sub-editor Sheila Wayman Contributors Fatti Burke, Niall Byrne, Grant Campbell, Aoife Carrigy, Tony Clayton-Lea, Graham Corcoran, Fionn Davenport, Clare O’Dea, Al Higgins, Bridget Hourican, Lisa Hughes, Fuchsia MacAree, Kyle Tunney, Gemma A Williams

CONTRIBUTORS KARL GEARY was born in Dublin and moved to New York City at age 16. There, he co-founded the music venue Sin-é, and later The Scratcher. He has worked as a scriptwriter (Coney Island Baby) and an actor (Hamlet and Ken Loach’s Jimmy’s Hall) and he recently directed Dorothy Parker’s You Were Perfectly Fine. His debut novel, Montpelier Parade (Penguin), is on sale now – he talks about his now-hometown, Glasgow, on page 62.

ART Art Director Clare Meredith Creative Director Bill O’Sullivan ADVERTISING Advertising Manager Corinné Vaughan, +353 (0)1 271 9622; Advertising Copy Contact Derek Skehan +353 (0)1 855 3855; ADMINISTRATION Financial Controller Brett Walker Accounts Manager Lisa Dickenson Credit Controller Angela Bennett Chief Executive Officer Clodagh Edwards Editor at Large Laura George Editorial Consultant Ann Reihill BOARD OF DIRECTORS Chairman Robert Power Directors Patrick Dillon Malone, Laura George, Sam Power, Raymond Reihill, Gina Traynor

PRINTING PCP, England ORIGINATION Typeform Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Cedar Communications Limited and Image Publications.

DEIRDRE CONROY is an art and architectural historian, her travels focusing on local culture, ancient stone and peeling paint. She is a book reviewer with the Sunday Independent, an award-winning travel writer – and a barrister. She has been published in the Irish Independent, Irish Times and Irish Arts Review. For her first piece in Cara – see page 78 – New Hampshire was a thrill to visit, as the home of some of America’s greatest writers.

CEDAR COMMUNICATIONS LTD CEO Clare Broadbent MD Christina da Silva Commercial Director Justine Daly Creative Director Stuart Purcell Editorial Director Maureen Rice Finance Director Jane Moffett Strategy & Business Director Ann Hartland

TRISTAN HUTCHINSON specialises in portraiture, editorial and music photography. He has worked for clients like The Wire Magazine and Google, while pursuing his own projects, and has exhibited internationally. He lives in Dublin with his wife Fran, and pepper plant Dave. He also likes gin. A lot. For Cara, Tristan photographed some of Ireland’s finest new music, including Loah and Rusangano Family – turn to page 44.

+44 20 7550 8000 85 Strand, London WC2R 0DW, UK


PUBLISHING COMPANY OF THE YEAR 2013 AND 2014 DIGITAL PRODUCT OF THE YEAR 2016 Image Publications, Unit 3, Block 3, Harbour Square, Crofton Road, Dún Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland, +353 (0)1 280 8415; Company registration number 56663 © Image Publications Ltd and Cedar Communications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of Aer Lingus, Cedar Communications or Image Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus, Cedar Communications or Image Publications Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from Image Publications Ltd.

July 2017





Cara magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland. IMAGE Publications Ltd is a member of the Press Council of Ireland and supports the Office of the Press Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit or


ON THE COVER Cillian Murphy, photographed by Lorenzo Agius.

Welcome to our new issue! We are to all yours. Feel free e away take this magazin rney. for your onward jou ur yo e lov o als uld We wo l feedback and trave photos via Twitter . @CARAMagazine

WHO? Judy and Dick Shireman FLYING IN FROM ... San Francisco JUDY SAYS ... “We’re here for roughly 12 days. We’ve hired a car and are going to Belfast, Galway and Kerry. We haven’t been to Ireland in 22 years. I’m excited to be back and see how much the country has changed since we were last here.”

WHO? Nancy and Patrick Cunningham FLYING IN FROM ... Chicago NANCY SAYS ... “We’re from Dallas. My daughter is flying in from London tomorrow and then we’re all driving to Killarney to go fishing.”

WHO? Martin Coughlan and Timmy Doherty FLYING IN FROM ... London TIMMY SAYS ... “We’re on our way back from North Carolina. We’ve been over there on a football scholarship playing matches for the last two weeks.”


Football and family reunions kept Dublin’s Terminal 2 busy – Cara was there to meet the newcomers.

WHO? Kuei-Peng Chen FLYING IN FROM ... London KUEI-PENG SAYS ... “I’m from Taiwan and visiting Ireland for two weeks. I’m really looking forward to tasting great beer here.”


WHO? Ethan O’Callaghan FLYING IN FROM ... New York ETHAN SAYS ... “I’m on my way back from visiting my girlfriend who has moved over to study in New York City.”

WHO? Above, Sion James, Joe Davis, and Owen James; right, Liam Nicholas and Huw Day FLYING IN FROM ... London JOE SAYS ... “We’re from Wales and over here for a football match – but have to make a trip to the Guinness factory!”


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HEART & SOUL On the centenary year of the first ever jazz recording – Dixieland Jazz Band’s Livery Stable Blues – the North Sea Jazz Festival in Rotterdam is chock-full of music stars. From Grace Jones to De La Soul, Herbie Hancock to Van Morrison, Robert Glasper to Laura Mvula, below, the threeday event this July 7-9 offers soothesome sounds for the sorest of ears.


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For the first time, the works of American artist Chuck Close, right, will go on display in a solo show in Britain’s north-east. Renowned for his monumental, close-up portraits rendered in paint and print, Close’s new works follow the same style and composition, except they are – here’s the twist – woven tapestries. Barack Obama and artist Cindy Sherman feature in this six-piece installation in St Cuthbert’s Chapel on the historic Ushaw estate in Durham.

Block Rocking


Bovine Scatology

Lego has never been more popular and The Big Brick Exhibition in Co Kildare’s Castletown House showcases some of the best 3-D constructions of the world’s favourite toy. The work of Michael Finan, exhibits include replicas of world-famous landmarks such as London’s Tower Bridge and the City of Light’s Eiff Eiffel el Tower.

See where Queen Victoria exploded! Smell the Thames mermaid! Discover the sinister truth about the Barbican! Bullshit London returns with their hugely popular, factually inaccurate walking tours. The premise is simple – visitors are invited to take a step down unreliablememory lane to be guided on an astonishingly silly and very fun walking tour of London’s major landmarks, all of which are real but the facts are 100 per cent genuine bullpoo.




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Brush off your Top Gun quotes this July 22-23 for the 12th annual Bray Air Display. The Co Wicklow seaside town will again play host to aerobatic thrills, spills, superstar pilots and vintage aircraft, whizzing above the heads of some 140,000 spectators.


Watergate Bay Hotel, UK As well as pasties and cream teas, Cornwall is synonymous with surf. And during school holidays, eight- to 15-yearolds are offered free surf lessons at this beachfront hotel. There are also supervised clubs for toddlers-totweens, including film screenings, beach activities and workshops, plus in-room child-minding services. B&B from £280.

Loew’s Sapphire Falls Resort, USA Theme park revellers will love the perks that come with staying at this Universal Studios Orlando resort: as well as getting in ahead of everyone else, guests can take free, water transport to it. There are grab-and-go meals, and poolside entertainment includes “Dive-In Movies” – film screenings with audiences on rubber rings. Rooms from $226 per night.

Camping le Dauphin, France Surrounded by swathes of greenery – and just a short, free, shuttle bus from the local beach – Camping le Dauphin offers a selection of comfortable tent lodges and mobile homes. The campsite’s slide-tastic waterpark has four swimming pools, including one for young children, and bikes can be rented to explore the area. Accommodation from €245 per week.


Sheraton Cascais Resort, Portugal Activity lovers of all ages can battle it out on tennis courts, practise their swing on one of the five-star hotel’s surrounding golf courses in Quinta da Marinha, or trot along with the nearby horse-riding school. There’s also a kids’ club for threeto six-year-olds, too, a sizeable pool, spa and family suites that can accommodate up to eight people. Rooms from €160.




Flapper Time “I like large parties. They’re so intimate. At small parties there isn’t any privacy.” This line from F Scott Fitzgerald’s The Great Gatsby may well apply at Alexander Wright’s immersive adaptation of Fitzgerald’s Jazz Age novel as it shimmies and smoulders across all the nooks and crannies of Dublin’s Gate Theatre. Auditorium seats will be removed, cocktails served, and Charlene McKenna will play Daisy, above. Dress fancy. Previews from July 6, and runs until September 16.

Bite Nights Santa Anita Park, Los Angeles, hosts the summertime 626 Night Market, one of America’s largest Asian food fairs, which this month is on July 21-23. With hundreds of exotic food, merchandise, arts, crafts, and entertainment options, it is one of the most exciting food gatherings on the Californian calendar. Festivities start at 4pm and usually don’t wind down until well after midnight.


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Dublin-born, London-based Daragh Soden, 27, is on a roll. Last year he won the British Journal of Photography’s “Breakthrough” award and, in May, he scooped the Photography Jury Grand Prix at the Hyères International Festival of Fashion and Photography for his Young Dubliners series. The prize included a €15,000 grant from Chanel and a solo show at next year’s festival. By Melanie Mullan.

sides together in a way that no other medium could.

Young Dubliners combines text and images. What’s the story behind the project? It’s a celebration of the unique character of a city’s youth, the city I grew up in. During a time of economic struggle in Ireland, a housing shortage in Dublin and austerity measures squeezing public services and domestic budgets, the young people of Ireland’s capital are championed in empowering portraits as they make the transition to adulthood. The photographs present the young Dubliners of today in their own environments, while the text is a more personal recollection of my own youth. The story condenses the memories of my own experience growing up in Dublin into the events of one

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boy’s day. Together, the text and images form a narrative that is intentionally microcosmic, using specific personal cases to reveal universal themes. Where did your love for photography come from? When I was younger I was never very interested in art, it was only after a few “false starts” that I found my way. I studied maths and science subjects in school and, after that, electrical engineering in university in Dublin. However, halfway through the course I left to pursue a more creative career – doing a short course in film and television production and began working in visual effects. It was here that I began making photographs, which marries my creative and technical

Any differences between young Dubliners and young Londoners? London is, in many ways – and despite the consequences of Brexit – the centre of Europe. It also has a huge immigrant population, with about 37 per cent of its residents being born abroad. So there are some very definite differences. That said, there are certain things that are universal in youth: the excitement, the boredom, the blissful confidence, the nagging insecurities, the freedom, the captivity, the simple pleasures, the painful guilts. There are things that all young people go through in their coming of age, regardless of the country or city where they’ve grown up. What does London offer that Dublin doesn’t? It offers so many opportunities that you could only dream of in Dublin. It’s a melting pot for creatives, offering the chance to collaborate with organisations and individuals who are regarded as the very best in their fields. For this reason the standard is at the highest level and you can find yourself working in very competitive environments.

Life in London can be challenging, but these high standards can also help to push you to make your best work. Favourite place to photograph in London? My work is always very personal, so I tend to make photographs of things that I know well. The series of images I am working on at the moment, for example, is made mostly within a few minutes’ walk of my house in South London. But with such a diverse range of cultures residing in such close quarters, the banal aspects of life in the city have never become boring to me. Favourite places for downtime back in Ireland? There’s a spot in the shadow of Benbulben in Sligo, just off the west coast. In autumn, when the winds are light and the water is cool and blue, swell from storms in the Atlantic comes marching towards the shore in sets of waves. Long evenings surfing with friends and family live on longer in the mind and help to brighten up those damp and dark winter evenings in London. When the weather is right, there are some places in Ireland that must be amongst the most beautiful in the world.





Jugglers, breakdancers and magicians will amaze audiences at this summer’s Laya Healthcare City Spectacular ( festival in Dublin and Cork. The free event also hosts cultural workshops, drama and dance classes, as well as a feast of food throughout the three days taking place in Dublin’s Merrion Square from July 7-9 and Cork’s Fitzgerald Square on July 15-16. Meanwhile, adding to this month’s creative fun, The Festival of Curiosity ( invites everyone to adventure in science, play and curious technology from July 20-23 at various locations throughout Dublin’s city centre.


Galway Whirl CONCERT

King Kuti



Decades-spanning, funk-jazzing Roy Ayers joins Seun Kuti, Underground System and Rich Medina in New York City this month (July 16; 2pm-7pm) for a free, open-air concert paying tribute and homage to the legendary pioneer of Afrobeat, Fela Kuti, left. For committed musos this will be an outdoor summer concert to rival all others; for more casual music aficionados, it’s a chance to let it all hang out, in the summer, in the city …


In rude health at 40 years old, the Galway International Arts Festival ( is bumperpacked this July 17-30. Its many highlights include: Woyzeck in Winter, which combines Büchner’s Woyzeck and Schubert’s Die Winterreise, Kneehigh theatre’s anarchic Tristen and Iseult, above, and Roddy Doyle’s pub-specific (as opposed to site-specific) Two Pints, which started life as Facebook-post banter. Also in the mix are talks, dance, art exhibitions and live music in the Big Top from Brian Wilson, Lisa Hannigan and The Coronas. And setting the cultural tone beforehand is Galway Film Fleadh (, July 11-16, whose premieres include Pilgrimage, about a group of monks escorting a sacred relic across 13th-century Ireland, and Maze, which recounts an historic IRA prisoner breakout in 1983.


Och aye, the new


Recently launched, Brew Lab – Scotland’s newest coffee bar – forges a new kind of coffee culture for visitors to Edinburgh this month. Founders Dave Law and Tom Hyde are expanding with a new, speciality coffee offering in the evening, challenging coffee’s reputation as a “daytime-only” pursuit. Nitro Cold Brew Martinis and a carefully curated food menu are among the developments being rolled out. The addition of natural wines, local craft beers and Scottish spirits from farm-to-bottle distiller Arbikie, rounds off a considered option for evening drinks in an alternative environment.

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Check in




The Dead Rabbit, New York A celebration of the absolute best in Irish hospitality, drinks and food, The Dead Rabbit deserves every accolade it receives. After a long night of enjoying some of the outstanding cocktails there, I was delighted to discover – the following morning – that it also happens to serve the most amazing Irish breakfast. Something that I don’t normally do when I’m abroad but, occasionally, one needs a taste of home. And it also gave me an excuse to enjoy another one of their Irish coffees, easily the best I’ve had. The most sublime start to any NYC morning.


Bar Raval, Toronto As you traverse College Street, the most exquisite mahogany woodwork catches your eye and drags you into Bar Raval, where you’ll want to stay for the spectacular Iberian food and drinks. Kickstart your afternoon outside, soaking up the sunshine while enjoying a lovely selection of pintxos and sherries before moving on to the somewhat larger plates of gems such as Galician octopus or boquerones. That’ll set you in good stead for the divine pork shank with salsa verde. But that’s not all folks. There is also a bakery on the premises. Make plans for a light dinner.

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From bouncer to brand owner, Oisin Davis has done it all in the bar game. These days, when he isn’t globetrotting for Jameson, he can be found running nationwide drinks festivals that are all about celebrating Irish spirits. He is also a partner in Poacher’s, a Wexford-based premium mixer company that uses Irish ingredients in its range.


Robbie’s, Estepona, Málaga I was first brought here by my in-laws and could instantly see why they love it so much. Few restaurants exude such charm and hospitality. Framed photos of Hollywood stars adorn every inch of the walls and every dish is named after one. Like the Prawns Rita Hayworth or, my personal favourite, Steak Frank Sinatra. You enter via the bar where you’re invited to sit on actual thrones, which is indeed, quite fitting. Robbie Anderson has made thousands of people feel like a king or a queen for more decades than any of us care to remember! (+34 952 802 121)


Rooftop Bar, Zyankali Bar, Berlin It would be a crime not to hit this legendary Kreuzberg bar if you’re visiting Berlin. Tom, left, the owner, is a trained chemist and adapts a deeply scientific, yet fun-filled approach to his drinks creations, which are unique and delicious. He makes his own absinthe, both in liquid and blue crystalised form so that it looks like something from Breaking Bad ... It goes into his infamous “Eyesbreaker” cocktail. Sip and slurp on one, chow down on dim sum and then dance it all off to the resident band. Repeat, ’til you can repeat no more.

Our San Francisco Office is Open for Business

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ORIHUELA “In Spain, we followed Orihuela’s beautiful cliff-fronted coastline for miles. The views were spectacular. This was a brief moment of calm while our two boys slept in the stroller. A real moment to remember.”

You Fly Smart. You’re social. Make friends with Cara (@CARAMagazine) and Aer Lingus (@AerLingus) on social media and share your destination selfies and holiday snaps via the #CaraViewFinder hashtag. When you see something, share it and you could be in with a chance to get published in Cara magazine.

Katty Patterson, Belfast, @kittylarouxx

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Alicante up to four times daily, and three times per week from Cork and Belfast.

CASCAIS “I took this picture of my girlfriend on a recent trip to Cascais. It’s such a relaxing place with lovely people. The beaches are beautiful and you can wander the streets for hours.” Gary Byrne, Dublin; @garybgary

DUBROVNIK “While cruising in the Adriatic with my family, we stopped off to visit the amazing city of Dubrovnik. There was a woman on the street with many exotic birds and my daughter posed with a parrot sitting on her shoulder, like a pirate!” Ella Patscatti, Pescara; @patscat_it

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Lisbon twice daily.

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Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Dubrovnik six times per week.


Discover and share Aer Lingus and Cara destination sights and insights by tagging your public Instagram and Twitter photos #CaraViewFinder

GLENDALOUGH “This was taken during the first section of the Spink trail – and an hour after my car had been clamped in Dublin city! With many steps behind us but with many more to go, my mates were cursing me as they didn’t realise quite how steep it was, plus the weather got quite squally ... I kept saying “five more minutes” until no one believed me – but they all agreed that the cracking views were well worth the slog (and my clamping fine).” Eimear Dunne, Dublin; @emudu

FARO “We were on the way from Lagos to Faro on a recent holiday in Portugal when we decided to stop and spend our last hours on the beach. These two guys on paragliders came out of nowhere. What an amazing way to admire the cliffs and ocean.” Dorota Chudzik, Dublin; @green.sandals

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Faro three times daily, and from Belfast and Cork ten times per week.

LONDON “We are a family of four travelling around the world for a year and living life to the fullest every day. We are Kevin, Raenee, Audrianna and Hannah. This photo was taken on our first trip to London when we paid a visit to Big Ben and the beautiful sites around one of the most amazing cities in the world. Our two little girls loved exploring London as a family and always talk about riding the big Ferris wheel!” Kevin Bautista, California; @bautistafamilyadventures

Aer Lingus has 29 flights from London daily, from Dublin, Belfast, Cork and Shannon to Heathrow, and from Dublin and Knock to Gatwick.


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Check in If you had one “last hotel” to stay in, which one would it be? The Mandarin Oriental in Hong Kong. It’s very beautiful inside, great food too – but the views over the harbour are fantastic.

MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK Best theatre city and why? Berlin, probably. The work is invariably inventive. Some of it crashes and burns – but the Germans, for theatre, have always been the most creative.

The Dublin-born, London-based ENDA WALSH is one of Ireland’s hottest theatre and filmmakers, creating Disco Pigs (playing at the Trafalgar Studios, London, from July 12 to August 19;, Ballyturk, The Walworth Face, Arlington, and Lazarus with David Bowie. At this year’s Galway International Arts Festival (, The Second Violinist premieres from July 25-30. While Once (, the award-winning musical set in Dublin, returns to the city’s Olympia Theatre, this June 30 to August 26.

You spend a lot of time in New York. Where are your favourite haunts? I like to wander around Dumbo and Vinegar Hill, just by the river. A very quiet part of town with great views of Manhattan and many good bars and restaurants.

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What can you tell us about The Second Violinist? That it’s an opera, firstly. I’ve written it with the composer Donnacha Dennehy – and I guess it’s in a similar territory to our last opera, The Last Hotel. It’s a suburban thriller – very dark and visually arresting. And the music, which Crash Ensemble will play, is stunning.

When you come back to Ireland, where do you always visit? Café Paradiso in Cork. Ard Bia restaurant in Galway. Howth Head for the walk. Connemara for the sky.



What surprised you most about working with David Bowie? He seemed free of ego. He obviously wasn’t. But he was the most generous collaborator. Always positive and bloody funny. None of this was really that surprising as I’d read it about him from other people he had worked with over his career. But it’s extraordinary that for such an artistic shape-shifter and cultural magpie – he never really changed as a human.







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Melanie Mullan conquers the great outdoors at Delphi Adventure Resort.


We take it slowly as we adjust to our paddles, enjoying the purple and orange hues of the mountains, learning about the local seaweeds and spotting film locations from Jim Sheridan’s The Field. As we gain confidence with our oars, we’re pushed to our limits by our guides, battling strong winds and bitterly cold waters and then exploring local mussel farms before floating back to shore, toes numb with the chill. Once defrosted, thanks to a hearty lunch and a change of clothes, we head out to scale the tree-tops on the Zip ‘n’ Trek ziplining course. The fearlessness of our younger days is no longer evident as we totter across rope bridges with jellylike legs. The actual zipline bit at the end – zooming through the trees at a great height – comes as surprisingly light relief, followed by a communal sense of pride as the group descends one-by-one. After an intensive yet fun-filled day, we lug our aching bodies to the Delphi Spa, treating ourselves – and our muscles – to back massages before soaking in the thermal ELIZABETH TOHER

or many, a trip to Connemara brings back childhood memories of school trips to the Gaeltacht – sleepless nights, dormroom pranks and the bellowing voices of teachers in corridors demanding we get back into bed. There’s no sign of such mischievous activity as we check into the remote Delphi Adventure Resort in Leenane, Co Galway. The flames of a roaring fire welcome us in to the lobby, while people read and chat in the adjoining library. Although spacious, the bedrooms and suites are minimal – no TV – while limited Wi-Fi access ensures less engagement with the online world. In fact, it’s so peaceful and distraction-free that we’re asleep before we can even get to the bar for a glass of wine. The next morning, the only noise we hear is birdsong, helping us rise early to wander and appreciate the beautiful misty surroundings and ancient topography. But, as calm and serene as the setting is, Delphi is an adventure resort and, after breakfast, we embark on the first of many activities: a kayaking trip across Killary Fjord.

Rapid response – kayaking is one of the many adrenalinepumping activities at Delphi Resort.

suite that enjoys views of the surrounding Mweelrea Mountains. Suitably relaxed and rejuvenated, we head upstairs to unwind further with a refreshing G&T at the 814 Restaurant & Bar before dinner. The nine-course tasting menu combines local produce from both land and sea to represent the sights, sounds and aromas of Connemara. Our waiter explains each dish in detail, from the oyster with caviar to the beef tongue pie. Later, as we settle into our rooms for another restful night, the memory of our champagne rhubarb and white chocolate dessert sends us off to sleep with the sweetest dreams. B&B from €108 for two. Delphi Adventure Resort, 095 42208;

WHAT TO PACK Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair, €79 in our inflight Boutique magazine, p24

Anthelios XL Tinted Dry Touch Gel, €19.50 at

Gel Kayano Knit Runner, €147 at

Fitbit Alta, €149.95 at

A History of Running Away by Paula McGrath (Hodder & Stoughton), €17.99 at

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Mirror Colour Block Print Leggings, €75 at

Oakley Trillbe Rectangle Sunglasses, €119 at

JETS High Neck Swimswuit, €165 at




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Bridget Hourican browses new offerings in books, travel and podcasts for the literarti.



MEMOIR I FOUND MY TRIBE by Ruth Fitzmaurice (Chatto & Windus, hbk, pbk, Kindle) There are two tribes: Fitzmaurice’s five children and her filmmaker husband, Simon, who has motor neurone disease and can only communicate with his eyes, and the “Tragic Wives’ Swimming Club”, friends who plunge into the sea in Greystones, Co Wicklow. A debut memoir from the Irish Times contributor on life, marriage, swimming and the natural world.

CRIME PRAGUE NIGHTS by Benjamin Black (Viking, hbk, pbk, Kindle) John Banville, writing as Benjamin Black, abandons his usual terrain of mid-20th-century Ireland, and his usual sleuth, Quirke, to take us back to Prague in 1599 and a beautiful corpse in the snow. Young doctor, Christian Stern, is hired by the emperor to investigate the murder of his mistress …

MEMOIR SHARK DRUNK, THE ART OF CATCHING A LARGE SHARK FROM A TINY RUBBER DINGHY IN A BIG OCEAN by Morten Strøksnes (Jonathan Cape, hbk, Kindle) This first English translation of the prize-winning bestseller tells the true story of two men setting out on a rubber dinghy in pursuit of the Greenland Shark in the waters around Norway’s remote Lofoten islands. A quixotic quest, drawing on science, poetry, history, ecology and mythology.

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Nature photographer Michael Poliza, known for his images of Africa and the Antarctic, turns his lens on the Spanish island of Mallorca (or Majorca). On the ground or from the air, he captures the sandy beaches and secluded bays, the mountain villages, the historic watchtowers, the elegant marinas, the salt mines of Es Trenc, the Cap de Formentor lighthouse. Poliza’s Mallorca is a panoramic place of nature, wilderness and history; when contemporary human activity occasionally intrudes, it’s seen from a distance – parasols on a beach, the rooftops of Palma, the runways of Son Sant Joan airport. Also, a useful map locates where each photo is taken.



Literati visiting Britain should check out the Historic Houses Association’s Literary Trail, featuring more than 40 member houses with links to literary figures, books and plays. From Macbeth’s Glamis, above, and Cawdor castles in Scotland to Norton Conyers, the 17th-century house in Yorkshire where Charlotte Brontë worked as a governess and got the idea for Jane Eyre, to Madresfield Court in Worcestershire, which inspired Evelyn Waugh’s Brideshead Revisited.

PODCAST OVERDUE “Overdue”, as in all those books you’ve been meaning to read. “In the spirit of self-betterment (and being able to drop sick literary references during parties)”, Andrew and Craig, two graduates from Kenyon College, Ohio, have been working through their bookshelves since 2013. One of them reads a book each week and explains it to the other. Whether you’ve got through Blood Meridian and Frankenstein and want to hear the guys’ views, or you haven’t and want to play catch up, this is smart, sweet and entertaining. NB overdue doesn’t necessarily mean long and difficult – the 250 episodes include crime, tweens and children’s classics.

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to shimmy over to Chicago. Eoin Higgins discovers his kind of town.

FOOD & DRINK It’s not just deep dishes and hot dogs – although in the Windy City they certainly do both of those things exceedingly well. The craft-brew bar and restaurant scene sparkles and simmers with a professional passion that is all too rare in an age where the food and drinks industry has become, well, exactly that, a bit of an industry. Bartenders and chefs impress in spades across a city where dedication to a peer-led, indie ethos has flourished and where pushing the envelope of convention is always the dish of the day.

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to Chicago twice daily.

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ARCHITECTURE & SCULPTURE Glittering Deco masterpieces, the Chicago School and Prairie School, some of the world’s first skyscrapers, Modernist marvels, mirrored 1980s gems … the city is a living, three-dimensional museum of captivating architectural styles, genres and curiosities. Hop on a city bus tour and ogle your way through town, taking in all the impossible angles and knee-wobbling heights. Furthermore, municipal sculpture peppers the city’s wide boulevards, as large-scale pieces, from Picasso to Calder, abound. CULTURE From scintillating theatre to side-splitting comedy and magnetic museums, Chi-town is bursting at the seams with mind-tickling things to do, hear, see and experience. Check out a show at the eponymous and iconic

Chicago Theatre on State and Lake, which hosts a variety of plays and musicals, often Tony Award-winning. The birthplace of improv comedy is also a great place to have a laugh with comedy clubs such as The Second City, or the iO Theater, whose many notable alumni include Amy Poehler and Stephen Colbert. PARK LIFE Since the early 19th century, Chicago’s motto has been Urbs in Horto, meaning “City in a Garden”, for its commitment to urban parklands. Gardens, parks and all manner of vegetation are planted among the streets of the city and along its suburban outskirts. A particularly enjoyable experience is a stroll through the meditative Lurie Garden within The Loop’s Millennium Park. A “harmonious blend of symbolism, landscape design and ecological sensitivity”, the space is one of the city’s most life-affirming. MUSIC Chicago’s innovative and complementary contributions to the American musical canon cannot be underestimated. House music, blues, gospel, jazz, soul ... each genre thrives in this very musical metropolis. This month in particular sees nodding musos from all corners descend on the city to attend the Pitchfork Music Festival (July 14-16) in Union Park. Check out trailblazing and legendary acts such as PJ Harvey, shoegaze heroes Ride, A Tribe Called Quest, Solange as well as a flight-case-full of cool music’s best up-and-coming acts.

From the US to Australia and from France to South America, the story of Irish emigration is epic. And now it has a museum just as dramatic. Rated 5 stars on TripAdvisor, EPIC is an interactive experience where you can discover not just the history and culture of Ireland, but also the huge influence that Irish emigrants had on the lands they came to call home. And all just minutes from Trinity College in Dublin’s city centre. EPIC The Irish Emigration Museum. CHQ, Custom House Quay, Dublin 1. Opening Times 10am-6.45pm (last entry 5pm). +353 (0) 1 906 0861.

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THE ALL-ROUNDER The Barbican is probably my favourite place in London. As an arts centre, its programming is always highly innovative, such as the recent Japanese House exhibition. On a sunny day it’s also great to explore the Grade II-listed Brutalist concrete building, or just enjoy the terrace with a coffee and cake. (Silk Street, +44 20 7638 4141;

THE ART GALLERY I love fashion illustration so am a big fan of the Fashion Illustration Gallery (FIG) founded by William Ling. It’s based in the Shop at Bluebird in Chelsea, but also publishes works and prints, and has an art fair running this July. Whether browsing or buying, it’s quite special. (350 King’s Road, +44 20 7993 6770;







MORE ABOUT GEMMA Tipperary-born Gemma A Williams is a fashion curator and writer living in East London since 2005. A graduate of the London College of Fashion, she is curating Hi! Fashion, which opens at the National Craft Gallery on August 12. Her book Fashion China (Thames & Hudson) was released in 2015 and she currently writes global features for The Business of Fashion. @gemmacurates

THE CONCEPT STORE Late Night Chameleon Café is the perfect destination for unique fashion pieces. Nestled in a lane in Dalston, you need to ring the buzzer for entry. Much more than a store, it stocks an expertly curated selection of some of the industry’s most cutting-edge designers, alongside a gallery, a café and a library. (The Basement, 18-24 Shacklewell Lane, +44 20 3174 0744;

THE BOOZER London is full of great bars but The Spurstowe Arms is a favourite. It’s slightly off the beaten track so tends to get a pretty discerning crowd and manages to get everything right, from the staff to the decor. Somehow the atmosphere seems to work for either a night out or a Sunday roast. (69 Greenwood Road, Hackney, +44 20 7923 3115;

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She’s a long way from Tipperary – Gemma A Williams shows us the sights.



THE RESTAURANT One of my favourites is Hoi Polloi – it’s so versatile. It’s the perfect destination for work meetings or just chilling with friends at the weekend. The food is great and I really love the loungey interior, which makes it a perfect hideaway from the bustle of Shoreditch. (Ace Hotel, 100 Shoreditch High Street, +44 20 8880 6100;

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Ireland to LONDON 29 times per day.

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Raise a glass this fourth of July to some of the world’s best, quintessential American bars, toasts Lucy White.



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This whimsical yet elegant watering hole is located in New York’s The Carlyle hotel – also known as “the New York White House” during the administration of JFK, and where Marilyn Monroe used to sneak up to his 34th-floor apartment via the service entrance. Oh, if the bar’s famed murals could talk … Cocktails are both classic and quirky: Earl Grey martini anyone?



Some woman for one woman, Ada Coleman was made head bartender at the London’s Savoy hotel in 1903. There she invented the Hanky Panky – still on the menu – while her successor Harry Craddock (who returned to Britain from New York after Prohibition was introduced) wrote The Savoy Cocktail Book in 1930, containing 750 concoctions including his own creation, the Corpse Reviver.


Also known as the American Bar, this small but beautifully formed historic saloon is tucked off Vienna’s Kärntner Straße. Modernist architect Adolf Loos completed it in 1908, and it has aged beautifully, with all the Art Deco trademarks – onyx tiles, mirrors, mahogany panelling, leather banquettes, a marble green-and-white chequerboard floor and seriously good cocktails served by dapper staff.


This lively piano bar in Paris was mentioned in the Ian Fleming short story From a View to a Kill – and also in Brendan Behan’s memoirs, him having worked there in the late 1940s. Other famous suppers include Coco Chanel and Hemingway (in fairness, where didn’t he drink?); it’s where George Gershwin composed An American in Paris – and it is claimed that the Bloody Mary was invented here in 1930.

The Collection B y A m y H u b e r m an

www.n e wbridge silv e rwar e. com



Few actors can straddle blockbuster and indie movies, theatre and primetime TV with such poise and credibility as Cillian Murphy. This month he’s on the frontline of Christopher Nolan’s historic drama Dunkirk. WORDS TONY CLAYTON-LEA PHOTOGRAPHS LORENZO AGIUS


o clipboard-toting PRs, no minders, no fawning flunkeys and absolutely no entourage – that’s Cillian Murphy for you. The 41-year-old, Cork-born actor walks along Manchester’s streets in casual clothes that wouldn’t recognise a designer’s name if their existence depended on it. He’s wearing a skullcap, which covers a pair of earphones and, if you didn’t look closely, you’d barely recognise him. Which is, presumably, exactly how he likes it. The recognition factor, however, is growing, notably through the BBC series Peaky Blinders, which, via Murphy’s central commanding involvement, has become one of the most acclaimed TV dramas of recent years. We are not here, however, to talk about Murphy’s role as Tommy Shelby, leader of the Peaky Blinders crime gang in post-WWI

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Birmingham, but rather his forthcoming movie, Dunkirk. Directed by Christopher Nolan, with whom Murphy has previously worked on four films (The Dark Knight Trilogy, 2005-2012, and Inception, 2010), his role in the film is a British soldier struggling with his conscience amidst the turmoil of the eponymous WWII battle and subsequent defence and evacuation of British and Allied forces. The reason why people collaborate frequently is that they can then bypass the time spent figuring out what makes each other tick. Correct? “You’re just directly into the work,” agrees Murphy, earphones out, sipping from a glass of sparkling water. “You have a shorthand and, over the years, Chris and I have developed that. I know, for example, what the atmosphere will be like on his movie sets. Of all the directors I’ve worked with, he’s definitely one of the most


hands-on; he knows every single department, every facet and aspect of what it takes to make a film. And he could probably do it as well as all of them. Also, he’s incredibly rigorous in everything, so it’s quite intense working with him.” Does that rigour suit Murphy’s methodology as an actor? Or does he work just as well with a more hands-off approach? “You need to be adaptable, malleable and able to work with both, but I just adore his films. What separates Dunkirk is that it’s a real-life story, whereas his other ones have been either speculative or in the science fiction area. For me, to see him tackling something like Dunkirk was very interesting. While everyone knows what happened historically, I think people will be surprised by the

narrative twists and turns.” Murphy has himself startled (and possibly assured) many people with his own singular, diligent twists and turns. He started his career in Irish theatre in 1996 with a spell-binding performance in Disco Pigs (written by close friend, playwright Enda Walsh, with whom he has subsequently collaborated on acclaimed theatre works Misterman, 2011, and Ballyturk, 2014). Murphy then came to international attention in 2001 with film director Kirsten Sheridan’s version of Walsh’s play, and followed that with 28 Days Later (directed by Danny Boyle, with whom he would again collaborate on Sunshine, 2007). Viewed by many as his “breakout” role, 28 Days Later

Floating battle – Cillian Murphy stars in Christopher Nolan’s new film depicting the Allied forces that were perilously evacuated from the beaches of northern France during World War II.

“I think people will be surprised by the narrative twists and turns in Dunkirk” 40 |


initiated a sequence of film work that remains uninterrupted. Straddling big budget and independent movies, selected theatre and prime-time television – all of which run in parallel with his allencompassing passion for music – Murphy has truly settled as an actor of depth and integrity. To be just an actor in one area, he remarks, would be limiting. He emphasises that the story is crucial but not the medium through which it is told. Murphy’s connection with stories is rarely unbroken throughout his career. Yes, he admits, everyone has work that misses the target – “but there’s nothing you can do about it”. At a certain point, he says with 20 years of experience under his belt, “you have to hand over control to the director, the editor, the distributors, the marketing department. That’s the nature of it. It can be frustrating, but after a while you have to not beat yourself up about it.” This is surely why theatre

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appeals so much. With film, “you can wash your hands of it and wait for it to come out”. Theatre, he suggests, is a different artistic beast altogether. “When you’re on stage every night, you are in control insofar as you can be, and you have this connection with the audience. You can steer a performance to the temperature of the evening. You can fix things, adjust things. “Theatre can be, without sounding ridiculous, transcendent, and for me the roots go back to performing music, when I was in a band. When it was right, you’d get this rush, this tingle up your spine. There was a connection there, total alchemy. No one knows how it’s manufactured – so as a live performer you’re always chasing that.” The rush and tingle that Murphy recalls may have transferred from music to acting, but the sensibilities are no less devoted. Frankly, the

Leaning in – Murphy has worked solidly across stage and screen since the 2001 indie flick Disco Pigs.

man is a music obsessive, eager to extol the virtues of “old” music as much as evangelise the merits of “new”. He says that when he’s working on any project, “the two things I do in the day is learn lines and listen to music”. For Murphy, the symbiosis between actors and musicians is as obvious as it is intuitive, and it’s no surprise to discover that – where appropriate – he uses music to help him get into the emotional space he needs for an acting part. “It has been helpful in the past before going on stage,” he explains. “Sometimes, you can ask a film director if they can play music on set. Certain tunes create an atmosphere – film sets are very busy places, there are lots of people and chat around, so putting the earphones in to listen to music is a nice way to close off and have some quiet time.” This is possibly Murphy’s polite way of saying that our conversation should be drawing to a close. Before we wrap up, however, we talk about his recent move back to Ireland. Over a year

ago, he and his wife, visual artist Yvonne McGuinness, and their two children, Malachy and Aran, swapped London for south Co Dublin. A good move? “It has been the best thing we’ve done. It was more motivated by our children being a certain age, wanting to be near our parents, wanting to be in a less crowded environment. Basic things, really.” Cillian Murphy puts on his jacket, buttons it up, plugs in earphones, positions his skullcap, shakes my hand, bids farewell. The evening streets of Manchester – and more filming for Peaky Blinders – beckon. As, we’ll warrant, a degree of anonymity that he wouldn’t swap for all the music on Spotify. “Ireland? I love being back,” he concludes. “Being amongst friends, amongst Irish people? Love it.” Dunkirk is in cinemas from July 21. Cillian Murphy also features in The Delinquent Season and The Party, both scheduled for release later in the year. Season four of Peaky Blinders is scheduled for broadcast on BBC this autumn.

THE LIKES OF CILLIAN MURPHY BOOKS “Portrait of a Lady, by Henry James. I hadn’t read any of his books before and it’s beautifully written. Reading a novel for me is relaxation, so I deliberately pick a book that I haven’t read, and is as far away from the world of work as I can imagine.” FILMS “Lady Macbeth, which was great. It’s a valuable lesson for all firsttime filmmakers – this was directed by William Oldroyd – in how to make a low budget movie in one location with an incredibly compelling story. It also has a brilliant central performance from Florence Pugh.”

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MUSIC “Pleasure, the new album by Feist, and This Old Dog, the new one from Mac DeMarco – love those two. But I listen to music all of the time, so it could be different tomorrow!” THEATRE “The Toad Knew, which I saw in Manchester’s Lowry (theatre). Charlie Chaplin’s grandson, James Thierrée, created it, and it’s an astonishing work of physical theatre, visual comedy. It isn’t really about anything other than the world he creates – there are other actors, but Thierrée is the central character. Stunning.”


Princess Grace


Michael Jackson

Marilyn Monroe

Princess Diana

Located in the Newbridge Silverware Visitor Centre, the Museum of Style Icons boasts a world-class collection of some of the greatest style and cinema memorabilia ever to exist. The collection includes garments worn by Audrey Hepburn, Marilyn Monroe, Princess Diana, Grace Kelly, Elizabeth Taylor, Liza Minnelli, Elvis, Tippi Hedren, The Beatles, Michael Jackson, Kim Kardashian and so much more.


M U SEUM | V IS ITO R C E NT R E | S I LV E R R E S TAURAN T T: 3 5 3 (0 ) 4 5 4 3 1 3 0 1 . S H OP ON LI N E AT WWW. N EWBRI D GESILVERWAR E.CO M

SLAY TO THE RHYTHM Irish music is moving beyond tradition. We profile the artists embodying new sounds and voices, who are tipped to take their place on the global stage. WORDS NIALL BYRNE PHOTOGRAPHS TRISTAN HUTCHINSON


omentum has been building around Irish music in recent years. There’s a fresh energy in the air, a new outlook. New generations of Irish musicians are changing the reputation of Ireland globally as a place of tradition. Success stories such as Hozier, Lisa Hannigan, Gavin James, James Vincent McMorrow, Girl Band, Picture This, Rejjie Snow, Imelda May and Hare Squead are not only altering perceptions of Irish music abroad but they are also influencing the artists that follow them at home. With the changing of the guard comes a new confidence, new voices and new

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sounds. Physical borders aren’t an issue when the world is at your fingertips. A more diverse population leads to an array of voices, with different perspectives, from Togo to Clare, from Louth to Sierra Leone. Size is a strength. “Ireland is small enough for us to feel connected yet imaginative enough to house this simmering pool of unbounded creativity,” is how Sallay Matu Garnett puts it. As Loah, Garnett is one of our pick of Irish artists who will be next to make an imprint on the world stage, if they’ve not already made their first steps there.

THE PARTY STARTERS WHO Le Boom WHAT Electro-pop duo ready to get you moving No young Irish band has blossomed more in the past year than dance-party-starting band Le Boom. The fresh-faced duo of Aimie Mallon and Christy Leech are playing a lot of festivals in Ireland and the UK this summer, despite having only released one infectious song: What We Do. Why? With Mallon on percussion and Leech singing falsetto and on synths, the

pair’s body-moving live show has laserfocused energy and a setup that is very conducive to dancing. Word has spread. “We use a lot of percussion – weird stuff like glass bottles and different cowbells, woodblocks and tambourines,” says Leech. “All that kind of stuff and this definitely adds to the energy.” They met only last summer. Christy returned home from playing art-school parties and DJing in New York and was unsure which direction to take the project. He asked Aimie to play percussion at a show and, despite little rehearsal time, Leech says

he found his musical partner on that stage. “That show was honestly one of the best and most memorable moments of my life,” he says. “After that, we became a duo, great friends and it has been awesome.” Best live music experience? The Lumo Club, in Dublin city. “We played a show there a few months ago and we kind of feel like that was the first time we could really feel things moving for Le Boom. Lumo is definitely very special to us. We love going back as punters.”


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THE STORYTELLER WHO David Keenan WHAT Dundalk songwriter with literary ambition David Keenan’s first brush with public interest was a video of himself singing in a taxi in his hometown as a 20 year-old. The fledgling musician took it as motivation to develop his craft and moved to London to “gather tales” and busk on the streets of the city. “Kerouac said it was only the mad people that interested him,” Keenan says. “And I feel that I gravitated towards those kinds of characters who appeared in my life.” Keenan credits his “seanchaí” (a traditional Irish oral historian) grandparents who would read Brendan Behan to him at bedtime for his delight in telling stories. Inspired by Behan and other great

storytellers such as Yeats, Wilde, Beckett and Dylan (Bob), the now 24-year-old’s debut songs have a literary quality – soul-baring acoustic music anchored by a Dundalk brogue that recalls another great, Van Morrison. Keenan has been progressing his “stripped-bare” live show by watching Damien Dempsey while supporting him on tour. He sees songwriting as his vocation. “It’s a pure need, like sleeping and eating. It’s a joy to create something out of nothing, throwing words and melodies on a canvas of silence.” Best live music experience? Liverpool Sound City. “Liverpool is like a second home, it was where I first ventured out of Dundalk on my own and it was the first time I felt plugged into a city.”

THE TORCH SINGER WHO Áine Cahill WHAT A Cavan singer with retro influences Cavan artist Áine Cahill recently went back to her old school to give a talk and play some songs for the students. It reminded her of how far she has come in five years. “I would have only started playing piano and I wouldn’t have written one song by the time I graduated,” Cahill recalls. A late bloomer in singing at age 16, Cahill has quickly developed a style of vintage pop music inspired by her favourite singers, Lady Gaga, Amy Winehouse and Lana Del Rey. The latter’s faded glamour and retro style made its impact on her debut song, Black Dahlia, which she performed live on TV for the BBC cameras at Glastonbury festival in 2016,

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having been spotted on stage by one of the producers. “We weren’t really expecting anyone to bat an eyelid,” she remembers. “But as soon as I came offstage, there was a huge reaction online. It was a turning point for me and I’ll never forget it.” Cahill is currently working on songs that move her songwriting into the personal. “When I first started writing, I hadn’t done anything or been anywhere,” she says. “I’m not writing about stories that happened to someone else, my new songs are about my own experiences.” Best live music experience? Glastonbury Festival, England. “It’s like being in a mini city ... It was 10 times the size I expected. There are so many different areas and loads of artists everywhere. There’s so much going on.”

‘a love affair with music’ THE NEW YORK TIMES

July – August | Olympia Theatre

‘as essential to visiting Dublin as walking Grafton Street or visiting the Guinness Storehouse.’ TRIPADVISOR REVIEW

Tickets from €25 | | #OnceinDublin


THE MODERN TRADITIONALISTS WHO Saint Sister WHAT Folksome duo from Dublin and Belfast What’s most immediately striking about the music of Gemma Doherty and Morgan MacIntyre is the organic way in which they weave traditional folk textures with modern electronic flourishes. They are the only Irish act using a Celtic harp that could be described as a pop act and they dubbed the sound created for themselves – “atmosfolk”. “We tend to crank up the reverb on it so it creates a lot of space in the music,” says Doherty, above left. “Putting electronics with the harp’s natural tones creates a different kind of sound.” The pair met fresh out of college while they were both “freaking out” about what to do next. Within an hour, they were

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thinking of band names. They’ve since put out a self-released EP, Madrid, a single with Communion Records, toured with Lisa Hannigan around Europe and played their biggest Dublin show so far at the National Concert Hall in June. “That feels like a lovely milestone,” says Doherty. “We’re so aware that at any moment this could just stop, so we’re definitely keen to keep making music together.” Best live music experience? South by Southwest (SXSW). “Other Voices is our dream festival. It takes place every year in beautiful Dingle in Co Kerry but in the latest series they filmed a few shows in Austin. We played there last year at SXSW and we’d absolutely love to soak it up once more.”

THE BEAT POETS WHO Rusangano Family WHAT “Beats and raps from three guys in the West of Ireland” Everywhere MuRli, mynameisjOhn and God Knows go, they leave an impression. First, the audience is infected by their freneticism and then, their words hit as deep as their sonics – true stories of migrants, identity, family and heritage. “It’s a party with a conscience,” John Lillis aka mynameisjOhn, below middle, says. “It’s music for everybody, because we all share the same emotions and ambitions.”

In March, the band’s second album, Let the Dead Bury the Dead, was crowned Irish album of the year by the judges for the Choice Music Prize, an achievement that floored them. “It was the biggest thing for all of us,” says Lillis. “Our mothers are very proud.” The trio can be found this summer on stage at festivals such as Beatyard, at home and gigging further afield at Luminato in Toronto. The trio’s new song, I Know You Know, sticks to the ethos of “keeping it real” more than the majority of rappers who espouse that phrase.

“It’s a track that explores the idea of mental health in Ireland and how slow people are to express what’s really going on inside themselves.” Best live music experience? Low End Theory, Los Angeles. “Low End Theory is a club which has been really influential for us. It has been blurring the lines between music genres for over ten years now, mixing hip-hop, jazz, psych rock and beats. I think we’d be a good fit there.”


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THE “ART SOUL” SINGER WHO Loah WHAT A heartfelt Irish singer with Sierra Leonean roots Despite making an immediate connection with her potential audience with her debut single, The Bailey, in 2014, Sallay Matu Garnett has spent the last three years making music that moves her the most, all the while progressing her reputation as one of Ireland’s most magnetic singers – drawing on jazz, her family’s West African language and a soulful timbre. Garnett says her music represents her completely. “I can express all sides of me, the identities, the subtleties, the loves, the hates, the whole shebang.” With her debut EP This Heart now out, and a growing fanbase, Garnett is feeling positive about future possibilities, including touring, releasing and collaborating with more artists such as Hozier, Bantum and her own band of jazz-versed multicultural musicians. “Success for me really just means making the music I want to make and being able to live well from it,” she says. “I just want to be happy and feel fully in creative flow, travelling to do sweet gigs, working with great people I like, making sweet tunes, and eating well.” Best live music experience? South by Southwest (SXSW), Austin, Texas. “It was educational and both humbling and encouraging meeting all these amazing, talented people, seeing that there’s a big world out there, but with enough work and integrity that it’s something I can step into. It was a beautiful chaos.”

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“The Original…The Best” THE IRISH TIMES


Box Office: 0818 719388 Int +353 14569569 In Person at the Gaiety Theatre Box Office VIP Experience Available



Meander through the heartland of Ireland’s Ancient East to discover a thriving collective of drinks producers great and small. WORDS AOIFE CARRIGY PHOTOGRAPHS AL HIGGINS

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aybe it’s something in the water, but these Boyne Valley folk sure know how to spin a good story. We’re only in the door at Listoke Distillery and Gin School (, and Juliet Gogan has already traced her roots back to what she calls the “ground zero of the whisky industry” in Scotland, aka the village of Kennetpans, by way of the inter-related Jameson, Haig and Stein families. Juliet grew up in Listoke Estate, near Drogheda, Co Louth, which her family inherited from Betty Cairnes of the once-famed local brewing family. Convoluted and colourful, her back story is best heard over a leisurely gin and tonic, as it is at the start of each Gin School session. Students leave several glasses later with a bottle of their very own gin, distilled in a copper mini-still with their botanicals of choice. Listoke is one of several dynamic distilleries, breweries and cider houses to emerge from the Boyne Valley in recent years. They produce two small batch gins: the aromatic, cardamom-led Listoke 1777 (which name-checks the year when Juliet’s ancestors first sent “white whisky” south to become the basis for London Dry Gin) and the spicier Listoke Barnstorm, available exclusively in Dublin Airport. Housed in historic stables within idyllic gardens, the school is the creation of Listoke’s MD, Bronagh

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Conlon. As visitor experiences go, it’s pretty special. But then these Boyne Valley folk know how to welcome visitors. Sure wasn’t the nearby 5,000-year-old Brú na Bóinne a legendary centre of hospitality in Celtic mythology? One of this megalithic site’s former residents was the goddess Boann, whose thirst for knowledge gave birth to the river Boyne. She is an appropriate namesake for the new Boann Distillery (, soon to become the first distillery to produce whiskey in Drogheda in 50 years. “We had my brothers canoeing down the Boyne looking for old mill houses,” says Sally-Anne Cooney of the search for a fitting home for her father Pat’s dream. Instead, the Cooneys found something better: a glass-walled, car showroom, roomy enough to house not just their distillery and its three gleaming copper stills, but also its sister project, Boyne Brewhouse, plus their own bottling and canning line and – by next summer – a mill-to-maturation visitors’ centre complete with taproom, whiskey bar and 100-seat restaurant. (Their state-of-the-art Kaspar Schulz brewhouse

Previous pages, trees line the banks of the River Boyne and Mark Jenkinson of Cockagee Cider samples his wares. Juniper jamboree, above – Listoke Distillery and Gin School is heaven for anyone wanting to uncover the dark arts of gin-making, aided along by its MD Bronagh Conlon, above right.

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Available at Dublin airport and at selected agents in Dublin city centre. Or purchase online at Ticket agents Dublin Bus Information Desk (T1 Arrivals) Spar Shop (T2 Arrivals) For more information, visit WE ARE ONE


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is already winning awards for their legend-inspired core brews and limited editions alike. Meanwhile “The Whistler” Blue Note 7 Year Single Malt won gold at this year’s World Whisky Awards.) Lucky revellers got a sneak preview at a recent candlelit midsummer’s feast in the distillery. A collaboration with local restaurant Eastern Seaboard, the solstice soirée was part of the excellent Boyne Valley Food Series ( The same series sees Slane Irish Whiskey ( open the doors of its brand-new distillery with a Slane Cocktail and Food Pairing Festival on August 5. Alex Conyngham, who grew up in the historic Slane Castle in Co Meath, says “I’ve always seen buildings as living things”. Thanks to a €50 million investment from the family-run Brown-Foreman of Jack Daniels fame, the Conynghams are bringing the 300-year-old stables and outhouses back to life to house their new distillery and visitors’ centre. Their signature, triplecasked whiskey will feature Boyne water, while estategrown barley will allow for a premium field-to-cask whiskey, eventually. “One thing you need in whiskey is patience,” says Alex. “This is about two families thinking long term.” Down the road in Stackallan, another family-man is excavating the past to build an ambitious future. Mark Jenkinson is developing a five-hectare orchard of 120 varieties of rare Irish, English and French apples. He hopes to rediscover the Cockagee apple that once produced a cider so esteemed that Queen Victoria’s palace paid four times the going rate for it. “It appears

Opposite, clockwise from top left, a brewing kettle at Boann Distillery; bridge over untroubled waters; Boyne Brewery’s Richard Hamilton; glamping at Rock Farm Slane; barrels of laughs await; new blooms at Dan Kelly’s Cider; fresh honeycomb at Boyne Gold farm; intricate interiors at Slane Castle, and Lord Alex Mount Charles noses the first batch of Slane Distillery Whiskey. Top left, Boann Distillery’s Sally-Anne Cooney and top right, the first bottling of Slane Irish Whiskey. Above, the apple of Mark Jenkinson’s eye: his Cockagee perry.


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in poems, in novels and in ship’s manifestos”, he tells me as we taste his own award-winning keeved (naturally sweetened) cider, named in honour of the ancient Irish variety. Visits to The Cider Mill ( can be arranged through The Rock Farm’s Slane Food Circle electric bike tours (see “Sleep” on page 60), but Mark is also developing his fascinating collection of Irish vernacular furniture into a full-blown Folk and Food Museum as part of a future visitor experience. And he’s not the only local cider producer with big plans. Down by the mouth of the river, Olan McNeece of Dan Kelly’s Cider ( hopes to convert old stables into a farm shop where visitors can buy his growing range of ciders. In the meantime his annual Apple Blossom Walk (another Food Series highlight) attracts families keen to learn about the surprisingly fascinating life-cycle of the humble apple. If they’re lucky, they get to hear Olan tell tales about his great grandfather, Dan Kelly, who was a steam engineer on the original Dublin/Belfast Enterprise Train. Olan spins a good story. But then, what else would you expect? If it’s not something in the Boyne Valley water, it must be in the Boyne Valley blood. 58 |


Clockwise from top left, Olan McNeece, owner of Dan Kelly’s Cider; dishy produce at Scholars; the table is set at Tankardstown House, and its sommelier and front of house ace Derek Moloney. 0404 65000 by appointment only

Modern & Classic Handcrafted Cabinetry





DAISY-FRESH Expect ultra-local food at Brabazon Restaurant – seasonal fruit, veg and leaves from the estate’s own walled kitchen gardens and polytunnels, or wild game sourced from local game clubs – transformed by chef Adrian Cassidy into elegant dishes such as lightly smoked wood pigeon with burnt cauliflower, broccoli and egg yolk. (Tankardstown House Hotel, Slane, Co Meath, 041 982 4621;

THATCHED Liz and Roger Pickett have combined her artist’s eye and his engineer’s mind to create The Cottages Ireland, a hidden paradise comprising pristine 300-year-old thatched holiday homes and surrounding gardens. With direct access to kilometres of sandy strand and deluxe details such as quality linen, power showers and high-speed Wi-Fi, it’s no surprise that they won the Best Holiday Beach Home in Europe Award 2016. From €70pp, minimum of three nights. (Bettystown, Co Meath, 041 982 8104;

IMAGINATIVE The ceiling murals and oak panelling might look centuries old, but they began life a mere decade ago when this former Christian Brothers residence was meticulously converted into the McGowan’s family-run hotel. At its Scholars Restaurant, chef Matthias Ecker takes an adventurous approach to local ingredients (think Boyne Valley Blue goats cheese panna cotta) while the Gastrolounge serves local tipples. (Scholars Townhouse Hotel, Drogheda, Co Louth, 041 983 5410;

OUTDOORSY Rock Farm Slane, Carina Conyngham’s unique ecotourism offering, overlooks her husband Alex’s childhood home of Slane Castle Demesne. Guests can “glamp” in yurts and shepherds’ huts or stay in a straw-bale lodge, and get busy with tree-climbing, kayaking or rafting, or simply chill out in the open-air hot tub. From €120 based on two sharing for two nights. (Slane, Co Meath, 041 988 4861;

CHOICE Opening to coincide with the distillery launch at Slane Castle, the 70-seat Gandon Room Restaurant is headed by local chef Catherine James Budriene, while the clubby Brownes Bar all-day menu will offer casual eats like a Slane Ploughman’s Platter featuring cheeses from the Meath HQ of Sheridan’s Cheesemonger. (Slane Castle, Co Meath, 041 982 0643;

ACE OF BASE The Duff family’s country town hotel, Headfort Arms, makes a comfortable base for exploring the rich local heritage. The hotel’s Vanilla Pod menus proudly highlight local “Place on a Plate” produce, while their spa features The Handmade Soap Company products made from natural ingredients in the county. Rooms from €62. (Kells, Co Meath, 046 924 0063;

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Great Scot!

Glasgow casts a steely shadow, but look past the industrial, grim-up-north stereotypes to find elegant architecture and a thriving arts scene in this greenest of cities. WORDS KARL GEARY PHOTOGRAPHS GRANT CAMPBELL



he light here in Glasgow is unexpected, mercurial. Clouds wander across the sky as if moved by a single breath but – give it a second – there’ll be a blue grey wash on the horizon, a dramatic darkening that sweeps south along the Highlands. In May 2014, black smoke filled the sky and the word went out, “Glasgow School of Art is burning”. Charles Rennie Mackintosh’s masterpiece was alight. Ninety per cent of the school was eventually saved but two things have stayed with me since. The sense of loss and grief expressed across the city that day by many who had never, and would never, step foot inside the building. And that the ashes, gathered from the burnt west wing, were collected and later turned into artworks and sold to fund the rebuilding. It’s quite a metaphor for a city. That’s Glasgow – once heralded as the Second City of the Empire, the north’s great industrial heartbeat, pumping steel and gleaming ships along the Clyde. Home to some of the world’s finest inventors, scientists and mathematicians. The bicycle, the telephone, penicillin and radar all began life here. 64 |


Previous pages, Laura Cameron of Brew Box and Clyde Auditorium, aka the “Armadillo” flanked by industry on the riverside. Clockwise from top, Glasgow Botanic Gardens; vintage queen Dawn Robertson; the city’s famous art school, and the Hogwarts-esque university.

Then came the 1960s, 1970s and 1980s. Glasgow, along with many industrial towns, set adrift, gutted. The working city haunted by a final whistle, by the softening of ship builders’ hands and, in the cracks of proud merchant buildings, the soot settled. This was almost as much as I knew about Glasgow when I moved here. It’s not much and it’s certainly not everything. The gaps in my education were enormous, hardly allowing for the music of Franz Ferdinand and Belle & Sebastian. The crime-writing sensations such as Ian Rankin and Denise Mina, to say nothing of the formidable first female first minister, Nicola Sturgeon. “Glasgow, come for the weather, stay for the cuisine ...” That was my pitch – turns out that there is truth underneath the humour after all. Weekend markets pepper the streets with fresh produce. This was an early discovery, there were many more ...

Wine Award of the Year 2017 Georgina Campbell

Ely organic grassfed lamb. From The Burren, Co Clare. A natural wonder. Pasture to plate.

Top 100 Restaurants in Ireland 2017 The Sunday Times Top 101 Restaurants in Ireland 2017 Best Wine Bars in Ireland 2014, 2015, 2016 & 2017 The Sunday Business Post Awards ‘ely offers the greatest wines from the world’s greatest winemakers.’ McKennas’ Guides 100 Best Restaurants in Ireland 2015, 2016 & 2017 ‘for having one of the most outstanding restaurant wine lists in the world.’ Wine Spectator’s Best of Award of Excellence 2015 & 2016 Best Wine Experience 2014 & 2015 Food & Wine Magazine Restaurant of the Year Awards So drop in, along with our cocktail and craft beer lists, our newest wine list is our most accessible yet.

ely bar & brasserie IFSC, Dublin 1. T: 01 672 0010 ely wine bar 22 Ely Place, Dublin 2. T: 01 676 8986 wine tastings: 01 678 7867


Glasgow is elegant, it’s Victorian and it’s green, claiming the most city parks in Europe. It’s pitted with music and art and laughter. It’s a slow burn, as available as an old friend. What are the criteria for a great city? It’s pretty simple. Start with the people, then move to the coffee shops, the bookshops, the food, the music and the museums. But as the great EB White would tell you, to know a town, take a walk. Stroll along the wide, leafy boulevards of the West End, across its rivers and parks, the grand Georgian buildings and famous red sandstone tenements. Starting at the Kibble Palace, in the Glasgow Botanic Gardens ( – the stunning, curved-glass greenhouses and manicured lawns, a sea of tulips and cherry blossoms in spring. To Byres Road, then, for artisan coffee and cafés, the main thoroughfare through the West End, being careful not to miss the pretty cobblestoned Ashton Lane. You may want to return later for the local pubs and music. Turn left at the bottom of Byres Road, to the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum on Argyle Street ( It’s one of Glasgow’s most popular destinations, built in Spanish

In suspense – Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum showcases contemporary art, such as Sophie Cave’s Floating Heads, above. Right, the undulating Riverside Museum.

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INSTITUTION The University Café is a family-run, much-loved greasy spoon diner that has been serving locals for almost 100 years. It was fitted out by the current owner’s ship carpenter dad in 1918. Try the meat pies and mushy peas with vinegar for dinner, and treat yourself afterwards to the best homemade Italian ice cream. (87 Byres Road, +44 141 339 5217) TRAD If you’re going to try haggis, and you should, The Bothy in West End is the place to do it – served with “neeps and tatties” (swede and potato), Isle of Arran mustard and Glenmorangie whisky sauce. The menu is seasonal and supplied predominantly by Scottish grocers. On a rainy afternoon, find a spot in front of one of the open fires. (11 Ruthven Lane, Hillhead, +44 845 166 6032; bothyglasgow. CULTURAL Glasgow’s Centre for Contemporary Art (CCA) is an impressive hub, boasting installation works by leading artists, along with theatre, dance and film screenings. Afterwards, settle into its Saramago café, for a vegan lunch, dinner or drinks. (350 Sauchiehall Street, +44 141 352 4900;


INCLUSIVE The cosy Dukes Bar is down an unassuming side-street and has great live jazz every Thursday night.

Prices to suit everyone, from the skint to the adventurous. (41 Old Dumbarton Road, +44 141 339 7821; MIRTH Expect worldclass comedy every night at The Stand. Great vibe. (333 Woodlands Road, +44 141 212 3389; KITSCH From the outside, The Buff Club has a 1920s vibe, with its innocuous front door. Inside, expect glitterballs, booths, funk, Northern soul and hip-hop. A Glasgow institution. (142 Bath Lane, +44 141 248 1777;


GEORGIAN Blythswood Square Hotel is a landmark building just a few minutes’ walk from the city centre, overlooking beautiful gardens. A newly renovated, 100-room five-star, it’s filled with luxury and charm. The restaurant is housed in a former ballroom and its cocktail bar has been rated one of the best in the world. There is also an impressive spa, complete with hydrotherapy pool and crystal steam room. Rooms from £133. (11 Blythswood Square, +44 141 248 8888; ERGONOMIC Hip hotel chain CitizenM has modern, clean and stylish lines. Its philosophy is to remove everything unnecessary and what’s left behind is luxurious – king-size comfy beds, soft light and linens; not a pillow chocolate

or a bellboy in sight. Its CanteenM restaurant is open 24/7 and serves excellent coffee, sushi in the afternoon and drinks late into the night. Rooms from £76. (60 Renfrew Street, +44 203 519 1111; HAVEN Run by a former dental surgeon, boutique B&B 15Glasgow is within easy reach of the action but feels far from the madding crowd thanks to its soothing colour scheme, original Victorian features and close proximity to Kelvingrove Gardens. There are five guest rooms in total – two of which are suites – and breakfast is delivered to your door for maximum loucheness. Rooms from £120. (15 Woodside Place, +44 141 332 1263;


PERFORMANCE The Citizens Theatre has been the backbone of Glasgow’s theatre scene since 1945 and had early connections to Dublin’s Abbey Theatre. (119 Gorbals Street, +44 141 429 0022; FILM Glasgow Film Theatre, housed in a stunning Art Deco building, is the home of indie cinema. (12 Rose Street, +44 141 332 6535; ART The city’s Gallery of Modern Art, aka GoMA, is Scotland’s mostvisited contemporary art gallery and is filled with magnetic exhibitions and workshops. (Royal Exchange Square, +44 141 287 3050;


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Clockwise from top left, lose yourself on the cobbled Ashton Lane; tall ships and tunnel vision on the River Clyde, and vaulted cloisters at the University of Glasgow.

Fly return to Glasgow from Cork, Dublin and Shannon this summer for 9,000 Avios points. Remember, if you don’t have enough points to fly to where you want to go, you can use those that you have and pay the rest in cash*.

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d St TEBelfa p E

CCtanic A S ti

rO ut €uugho




Birthplace of rMS titanic and proud Winner of ‘World’s leading TourisT aTTracTion’ World Travel aWards 2016

titanic Belfast features nine interactive galleries that explore the sights, sounds, smells and stories of titanic. the world’s largest titanic visitor experience, it is located at the very place where rMS titanic was designed, built and launched. explore the shipyard, walk the decks, travel to the depths of the ocean and uncover the true legend of titanic in the city where it all began.



Clockwise from above, Duke of Wellington dons a jaunty “hat”; cherry blossom in Kelvingrove Park; Gordon Eadie, who pimps up vintage furniture and lighting at The Rust Works; fruity finds, and having a mural moment at Barras Art and Design Centre (BAaD).

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to GLASGOW up to four times daily, and from Cork five times per week.

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Baroque style, but cleverly using traditional red sandstone. It houses a number of impressive Scottish and international works, along with an enormous pipe organ that is considered the soul of the building. Through the surrounding Kelvingrove Park, the impressive campus of Glasgow University can be seen – think Harry Potter – and is well worth a stroll. For lunch walk further along the hip Argyle Street at Finnieston. A plethora of restaurants, offering anything from vegan and organic to oxtail and tripe, vie for attention. Onwards to the city centre, shopping along Buchanan Street, there is no shortage of tartan and Harris Tweed à la Vivienne Westwood. On the way into Merchant City – the most central area – consider stopping for cocktails at the beautiful Art Deco bar and restaurant, Rogano on Exchange Place ( Then have a wee gander around Billy Connolly’s favourite haunt, the Necropolis (, a higgledy-piggledy Victorian graveyard, with the best views over Glasgow and beside a 12thcentury Gothic cathedral. And finally back into town for dinner at Café Gandolfi on Albion Street (, where seasonal produce is the order of the day. It’s easy to overlook Glasgow but it has achieved something where powerhouses like London and New York have failed. It has managed to regenerate itself fully without pushing its citizens to the outer reaches of the city and making room in its centre only for the elite. No, here in the heart of Glasgow, everyone is welcome.

You say, we say ...


Looking for somewhere to grab some nosh but don’t want to lose sight ofyour perfectly positioned beach towel? Fionn Davenport has the solutions.


BAR DO GUINCHO, CASCAIS, PORTUGAL Perhaps the best-positioned bar in all of Cascais is this easygoing, linger-awhile spot hidden behind a rocky ridge on the northern edge of Guincho. There’s a surf school next door, so you can guess the clientele: barneys, bennies, boogers and every other kind of water baby refuelling with burgers and freshly made seafood, washed down with an ice-cold cerveja. It’s the place to live out your own version of Endless Summer. Absolutely cranking spot.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Lisbon twice daily.

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RESTAURANT 34, NERJA, SPAIN For maximum enjoyment of this stunning seaside restaurant, be sure to book in advance and nab one of the three terrace tables nearest the cliff edge. The terrace is decorated in oversized Moroccan lamps and clusters of bougainvillea – the loveliest setting to enjoy the seasonal Spanish dishes and local wines. It’s all run to perfection by GM Lucan Kersey, the other half of Irish TV presenter Síle Ní Bhraonáin.


Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Málaga three times daily, from Cork eight times per week, from Belfast daily, and from Shannon three times per week.


HARRY’S SHACK, PORTSTEWART, NORTHERN IRELAND This National Trust-owned beach shack is home to one of Northern Ireland’s best restaurants. Freshly caught seafood, veg and herbs picked from their own organic farm and meats supplied locally are the raw ingredients, but the results are divine: try the megrim sole with cockles and seaweed butter or the whole brill with new potatoes, washed down with a pint of Mac Ivors Cider from Armagh and you may consider moving to Portstewart. It’s so popular that you’ll need to book in advance. (+44 287 083 1783)

4 MALIBU FARM, LOS ANGELES, USA How about tacos with a side of superb views? The best spot in Malibu is at the end of the historic pier, where this restaurant serves farm-to-table fare that is oh so typically southern Californian: try the spaghetti squash lasagne, or the vegan coconut – basically veggies, tofu and coconut sauce over black or white rice. The style is New England crab shack, the drinks (Singapore Slings, Rum Swizzles) a throwback to yesteryear and the overall effect is fabulous.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Los Angeles daily.


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“Everybody wants to eat at Vittorio’s” is a common refrain in this part of Sicily, along the southwestern coast just south of Mazara del Vallo. On an island known for its seafood, this beachside restaurant – and it’s directly on the beach – is one of the very best. The antipasti alone – the freshly caught octopus flavoured with oil and lemon juice; the marinated anchovies, the beautiful red prawns – are memorable, but that’s before you’ve tried the seafood pasta or Vittorio’s own fish stew.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Catania twice weekly.

6 7 LA PLAGE, PALOMA BEACH, ST-JEAN-CAP-FERRAT, FRANCE “Welcome to Paradise,” coos the restaurant’s website, and it’s hard to argue otherwise. On the north side of this pebbled beach in the super-chic resort of St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat is a private beach club beloved by the bold and the beautiful (but open to the rest of us too). You show up not so much for the food – perfectly good pizzas, salads and freshly caught fish dishes – but just to be there, sipping cocktails and looking across yacht-filled water toward Beaulieu-surMer, Éze and the Cap-d’Ail. Paradise indeed.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Nice ten times per week.

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Sitting on a dune along the Cape Cod National Seashore, this former Life Saving Station (built in 1897) is New England’s best spot for grub with a seaside view. The menu is reassuringly simple – buffalo wings, mozzarella sticks and burgers complement the specialty of the house, seafood shucked to order. Grab a (plastic) seat and take up position overlooking the sea, and hum the tune to Old Cape Cod: “If you’re fond of sand dunes and salty air ...”

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Boston twice daily, from Shannon daily, and from Dublin to Hartford daily.

Avoca Suffolk Street CafĂŠ, Food Market & Store in Dublin City Centre



It must have been fun scouting locations for The Night Manager, the 2016 TV miniseries based on the novel by John Le Carré. Remember that scene where Roper’s son Danny apparently gets kidnapped? It was shot on the terrace of this gorgeous fish restaurant perched on the rocks overlooking a crystal clear bay. It’s worth the effort, if only for the Sóller gambas prepared to perfection by chefs who know a thing or two about seafood: the restaurant is run by the third generation of a local fishing family.


Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Palma daily, from Belfast four times per week, and from Cork three times per week.




HIDDEN HUT, CORNWALL, UK Blink and you might miss this wooden cabin, built as a wartime lookout, tucked away on Porthcurnick Beach. Which would be an awful shame, as the beach food served is superb: perfect cheese toasties, homemade hot soups, cakes and salads. The only seating is on an outdoor bench, but with views like this who wants to be indoors? Summertime has pop-up feast nights a couple of times a week. To get here, walk about half a kilometre north from Portscatho.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Newquay daily, and from Cork twice weekly.

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RILEY’S FISH SHACK, TYNEMOUTH, UK More of a steampunk-style restaurant made up of two shipping containers with one side opened over King Edward’s Bay in Britain’s northeast, Riley’s is a true gastro treat. Take your pick from chargrilled squid, red mullet, kipper and other seafood delights and watch it cook in the wood-fired oven before eating it out of a thin wooden box, sliding it down with the help of a craft beer.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Newcastle up to three times daily, and from Cork three times weekly.

An exciting new restaurant in the heart of Dublin City. A new food experience by Dylan McGrath to explore the idea of flavour, tastes and in the room cooking, while being influenced by Japan, Spain and South America. “I love the flavour release of some of these cooking techniques. I find something special in the use of their immediate, quick heat and I hope you do too”. - Dylan McGrath


e are committed to bringing to the plate all that is great from the best of Irish produce, at a time when its is important to support the value, the effort and commitment of our Irish producers and farmers. These people are an inspiration to us; through their passion they are continuously evolving with a determination to be proud of what we do on this rapidly developing food island”. - Dylan McGrath

Taste at Rustic 17 South Great George’s St. Dublin 2, Ireland. Tel: +353 (01) 526 7701

Fade St Social, 4-6 Fade St, Dublin 2 T:01 6040066

“At Rustic Stone our philosophy is simple. We source the best seasonal ingredients, then we apply simple techniques to extract the most flavour, while giving you the information you need to add nutrition and structure to your diet. The produce I’ve chosen and our demand for freshness, is the cornerstone of our Rustic idea, while providing a healthy but affordable eating approach.”

Fade St Social, 4-6 Fade St, Dublin 2 T:01 6040066

- Dylan McGrath 17 South Great Georges Street T: 01 707 9596

Poetic Passages From Emily Dickinson to Robert Frost and E.E. Cummings, America’s Northeast has inspired many a writer. And many a road-tripper too, for its stunning scenery and quaintest of inns. WORDS DEIRDRE CONROY PHOTOGRAPHS KYLE TUNNEY



ver wondered why New Hampshire is so popular with writers and poets? This rural haven inspired Robert Frost’s Stopping by Woods on a Snowy Evening, which ends with the line: “And miles to go before I sleep.” I did have miles to go before I slept on my New Hampshire road trip, but they were miles of charming back roads, sun glinting through tunnels of trees and magical glimpses of lakes scattered with lily pads. This was a road trip with a difference: no anonymous motels or truck-stops but instead a very personal experience, staying at historic inns exuding old-style comfort and home cooking, and within reach of literary haunts. The direct Aer Lingus flight from Dublin to Hartford, Connecticut drops you within an hour’s drive of the Monadnock region – and only a few hours’ away from where Jodi Picoult lives in Hanover and Dan Brown in Exeter. But first, in Hartford, visit the Mark Twain House ( and Harriet Beecher Stowe Museum (harrietbeecherstowecenter. org). Then departing Connecticut and heading north, turn off Interstate 91 for Amherst, Massachusetts, where you’ll find the home of the great American poet, Emily Dickinson ( Standing inside her house on Main Street, peeping out her bedroom window, is somewhat eerie, as if she is watching ... By the time you reach the crossroads at Fitzwilliam, it’s easy to see the allure of New Hampshire. The white-clapboard houses, the meetinghouse and church are straight out of Little House on the Prairie. 80 |


Actress Lisa Steier, top, who leads living history tours at The Mark Twain House, pictured above and left. Above, a peek into Emily Dickinson’s house.






Rad rapids – waters rush along the Androscoggin River, above, which cuts through New Hampshire and Maine, while clouds mist the peak of Mount Washington. Below left, the very charming Gary Taylor of Bloomin’ Antiques in Fitzwilliam, New Hampshire; below middle, breakfast at Wentworth Inn; below right, a fruit cocktail to start the day at Silas W Robbins’ house. Opposite, clockwise from top, Sasa Vrucinic at New Hampshire’s Woodstock Inn and Brewery; Chelley Tighe, co-owner of The Fitzwilliam Inn, and interiors at Silas W Robbins B&B are like a beautiful time capsule.

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The Fitzwilliam Inn ( dates back to 1796 and is owned by Chelley and David Tighe, who rescued the derelict building in 2013. Having travelled many times to Ireland and loved the hospitality of our rural B&Bs, they imported that experience as local innkeepers. A big attraction here is the six-hectare Rhododendron State Park, in full bloom mid-July. Nearby Mount Monadnock is very popular with hikers. At 965 metres, the views are awesome from the summit overlooking the six New England states. Another option throughout the state is horse-riding along the old railway lines – many inns and resorts have stables and offer “Ride and Stay” packages. If it’s thrills and spills you are after, try canoeing or kayaking on the Contoocook River. For family fun, take the kids on a gentle paddle to Daisy beach for a picnic and swim ( A must-visit for its small-town charm, galleries and boutiques is the historic Peterborough. The MacDowell Artists’ Colony ( was founded

here in 1907 and an estimated 7,700 artists have been in residence, including at least 79 Pulitzer prize-winners. The Lakes Region is spectacular for both adventure and relaxation. The Kancamagus Highway is a 56-kilometre drive with one of the best autumn foliage displays. The Scenic Byway leads you on a path through the White Mountain National Forest, with deep pine scent and astonishing views of the Swift River, Sabbaday Falls and Rocky Gorge. The “Kanc” connects you with Lincoln and Loon Mountain, where the scenic gondola takes you to mountain walking trails. For a lively stopover, try the potent martinis or local brews at the Woodstock Inn Station and Brewery (see “Sleep” on page 86), a converted railway station, with five cosy outhouse lodgings, a brewery and a music venue. In the Mount Washington woods in summer, watch out for bears. This is also the place for white-water rafting at Gotham ( and then unclenching your white knuckles


For comprehensive info on where to stay, sightsee, eat and drink during your New England road trip, visit the tourist board websites for New Hampshire (, Massachusetts ( and Connecticut ( If you’re in or near Rhode Island’s Bristol this July 4, visit America’s oldest Independence Day Parade, which also includes a ball, live music, sporting events, food and drink tastings, and wow-inducing fireworks display.


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afterwards at the luxurious Wentworth Inn at Jackson (see “Sleep” on page 86). Built in 1869, it is now owned by Cork woman Ellie Koeppel, who arrived in the early 1990s on a J-1 and fell in love with a local. Heading back towards Boston, check out Millyard Museum ( for Manchester’s industrial heritage history. Down the road, have a superb lunch at Stark Brewing Company (starkbrewingcompany. com), named after General John Stark, who gave New Hampshire its motto, “Live Free or Die”. And desserts are deadly at the Dancing Lion chocolatiers ( 84 |


On the way to Logan airport, don’t miss out on Salem, Massachusetts. Many of the original buildings involved in the witch trials are preserved and the memorial is fascinating. Also, Nathaniel Hawthorne wrote the Gothic novel, House of the Seven Gables, based on a 1668 colonial mansion on Derby Street, which you can now visit ( When you are back on the plane and already committing those picturesque highways and byways to memory, think of Robert Frost’s words: “Two roads diverged in a wood, and I / I took the one less traveled by / And that has made all the difference.”

Top, a remote farmstead near Chatham, New Hampshire. Above left, decisions, decisions ... at Ava Marie Chocolatier; above middle, a quintessential New England spire in Wethersfield, Connecticut; above right, a bold lunch at Stark Brewing Company.

Fly return to Hartford this summer for 40,000 Avios points. Remember, if you don’t have enough points to fly to where you want to go, you can use those that you have and pay the rest in cash*.



lunch | dinner | private dining | e xclusive hire e a r ly b i r d | s u p p e r c l u b | y e a r r o u n d t e r r a c e

s u es e y s t r ee t. i e | i nfo @sue se ystr ee t. i e | @sue se ystree t + 3 5 3 1 6 6 9 4 6 0 0 | 2 6 Fi tz w i l l i am Place , dub l i n 2

New Hampshire Essentials SLEEP

$289. (2 Olde Bedford Way, Bedford, NH, +1 603 472 2001; CRAZY The Bear’s Den at the Woodstock Inn Station and Brewery in Lincoln epitomises the character of Loon Mountain. I slept soundly in a timber-lined Adirondack shack-style suite, boasting two queen-size beds and a sofa-bed. With a warm stove and whirlpool tub, it’s pretty much the perfect cave to crash out in after a long drive. Dog-friendly if notified in advance. Rooms from $96. (135 Main Street, North Woodstock, NH, +1 603 745 3951;

CLASSIC Jackson village is like a fairytale and its Wentworth Inn has all the style of a country club with the personal touch of a private home, thanks to innkeeper Ellie Koeppel, above. There’s a great, classic cocktail bar and a restaurant serving delicious farm-to-table fare. Rooms from $154. (1 Carter Notch Rd, Jackson, NH, +1 603 383 9700; CHIC From small federal farmhouse in 1810 to The Grand at Bedford Village Inn, this boutique hotel opened in 2016. Dining areas are intimate, while the laptop set hang out in the cool lobby. There’s also a great on-site shop. Rooms from

GENTEEL Stepping into the Silas W Robbins House in Wethersfield is like stepping back in time, from the ornate exterior – typical of French Second Empire architecture – to its vintage and period-appropriate furniture. Breakfasts are hearty and, for all its olde worlde charms, there is Wi-Fi. The building dates back to 1873, while Wethersfield itself is Connecticut’s largest historic district. B&B from $195 per room. (185 Broad St, Wethersfield, CT, +1 860 571 8733;

finest Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley. The interior is stylish, spacious and in the midst of a casino-hotel on a pimped up native American reservation run by the Mohegan Tribe. (1 Mohegan Sun Blvd, Uncasville, CT, +1 860 862 2277; TOWNHOUSE Exposed brick walls, low lighting and leather booths make Hanover Street Chophouse a real Sopranos-style eatery. Ranked No.1 Steakhouse in New Hampshire in 2016 – and Best Bathroom in New England. I loved the Cape Cod oysters – Onset Bays, Duxbury and Blue Yonders. There’s classic fare of shrimp cocktail, New York strip, quirky truffled tater tots and crabcheddar mac ‘n’ cheese. (149 Hanover Street, Manchester, NH, +1 603 644 2467;

EAT MEATY An hour from Hartford airport is New York chef Bobby Flay’s Bar Americain at the Mohegan Sun resort. This is the ultimate raw bar and steakhouse, where my son and I had exquisite filet mignon, washed down with the

BOHO Converted from an old railroad warehouse, Twelve Pine in Peterborough is a very pretty gourmet marketplace, using fresh produce, above. For dessert, try the best chocolate and handmade ice cream from the local Jersey herd at Ava Marie Handmade Chocolates. Make time too for historic Depot Square, and nearby Monadnock Museum. (11 School Street, Peterborough, NH, +1 603 924 6140;


SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to HARTFORD daily, to BOSTON twice daily, and from Shannon to BOSTON daily.

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While Berlin tends to glean all the hip buzz, Germany’s second city, Hamburg, pleasantly confident mix surprises with its confident of fun eccentricity and superb city break potential. WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS EOIN HIGGINS

Sun out, hat on, drink in hand … taking it easy al fresco at one of the bright café bars along the Dalmannkai quarter on the waterfront. AERLINGUS.COM |

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1 1 Mapping out the day over coffee, from the hip comfort of the 25hours Hotel Hamburg Altes Hafenamt. 2 Nina on her way to a friend’s birthday party at the chic Neumann’s bistro and wine bar in colourful St Georg.


3 When in Rome … Otto’s Burger Schanze along trendy Schanzenstraße serves up excellent hamburgers. 4 Port city, fresh developments in the harbour and the dazzling ‘Elphi’ building.


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THE FINEST IRISH INGREDIENTS INTENSIFIED BY FIRE FIRE’s renowned culinary team and the Irish Hereford Prime beef farmers have crafted a taste revelation. Our award winning 28 day aged Irish beef steaks are hand cut and specially marinated before being char-grilled to your liking. 8oz Sirloin Steak

10oz Rib-eye Steak

10oz Fillet Steak(fillet)

Centre cut of Sirloin, with a tasty bite and juicy strip of fat.

Delicately marbled with an eye of fat for a full bodied flavour. We recommend medium for maximum flavour.

Prime centre cut, lean and tender with a delicate flavour.








1.2kg Irish Prime Rib on the Full Beef Rib Bone. Delicately marbled with an eye of fat for a full bodied flavour.



FIRE exclusive 35 Day Dry Aged Bóruma Tomahawk Beef Rib (rib plate)




FIRE’s passion, unique setting and award winning menu guarantees an unforgettable dining experience in the heart of Dublin.

FIRE Restaurant and Lounge, The Mansion House, Dawson Street, Dublin 2. T: 00353 1 6767 200 | E: |



Visual artist, Mississippi, from Kyoto, hangs out on Marktstraße, in the city’s coolest neighbourhood: Karolinenviertel.

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5 6


5 The iconic profile of the Porsche 911 G-series parked downtown.


6 Oh buoy, oh buoy ... life preservation on the waterfront. 7 A frothy, cold pale ale … local, regional and national craft beers abound in bars across town. 8 Pole position ... colourful sculpture frames the elegant spire of City Hall.


Fly return to Hamburg this summer for 15,000 Avios points. Remember, if you don’t have enough points to fly to where you want to go, you can use those that you have and pay the rest in cash*.


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9 Footloose and fancy-free, Ralf and Eva Mierow relaxing in the evening air. 10 ‘Back to the Roots’, one of the beautiful cocktails from the sophisticated St George hotel bar. 11 Olga B Runschke poses in front of one of her paintings at gallery space Farbwerke M6. 12 Knut Hannibal-Teichmann gently cautions a boisterous friend.


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ohnnie Fox’s Pub situated in the heart of the Dublin Mountains has it all, a living museum of Irish History andTradition where unique pieces from old farm implements to Historical antiquities adorn every wall, nook & cranny. Serving an award winning a la carte menu from 12.30 until late, with live musicians playing traditional Irish music 7 nights a week, our special kind of Irish welcome is not to be missed.


ituated only 40 minutes from Dublin City Centre and 10 minutes from Dundrum or EnniskerryVillages why not take our private shuttle bus which will collect you from an array of Dublin City or County Hotels operated by (01 8221122) for €5 each way.

Highest Pub in Ireland


Hooley Nights

For a real treat one should experience the world famous show known as the Johnnie Fox’s HOOLEY night which includes the esteemed Johnnie Fox’s troop of Irish dancers, live traditional Irish music, a full 4 course evening meal and plenty of great craic….. at only €52.50 per person. • • • •


Johnnie Fox’s Pub l Glencullen l Co. Dublin

l Ireland l Tel: (01) 295 5647 Email:

famed as

SHUTTLE BUS Leaves the city Centre every evening and returns after last orders. Please call 01-8221122 or 01-2955647 to book your seat.



Light, form, colour and line … one of the many colourful mosaic panels to stop commuters in their tracks when taking the U-bahn.

SLEEP BOUTIQUE The George Hotel in the cool St Georg neighbourhood is a design-led four-star with a polished clientele. The slightly questionable, yet thankfully restrained, British theme is offset by a cool, dark decor that hosts plenty of chic points of visual interest. A very professional bar set up is complemented by a pretty good Italian restaurant. Expect lots of well-presented louche locals hanging around the bar from early evening. Doubles from €118. (Barcastraße 3, +49 402 800 300; CONTEMPORARY Having just opened its doors – the paint is still fresh – 25hours Hotel Hamburg Altes Hafenamt is a

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high church to its congregation of millennials. At least that’s what I imagine, not being one myself. Think weathered this, distressed that, curated the other, and a relentless stream of on-your-leveland-totally-relatable messages at every turn. Stylish, stimulating and very attractive. Doubles from €221. (Osakaallee 12, +49 40 555 575 255; STATELY The five-star Hotel Atlantic Kempinski personifies the classic, European grandhotel experience with no small amount of flair. Overlooking Lake Alster, it has served as a calm accommodation oasis in this bustling port city since 1909. At the same time, easy accessibility and a central location puts it right in the thick of things. Meanwhile,

the exceedingly impressive Atlantic restaurant offers a combination of modern German seafood. Doubles from €213. (An der Alster 72-79, +49 40 28880;

SMART TIPS Visit Karolinenviertel to check in with the city’s most creative characters. “Karoviertel”, as it’s known locally, has a unique charm and its main strip, Marktstraße, comprises a generous handful of cafés, boutiques, galleries and more to wend through of an afternoon. Explore by bus, train and harbour ferry (HVV) and enjoy discounts at more than 150 attractions with the Hamburg CARD, for a

very reasonable €9.90, available from all subway ticket machines. Keep your holiday wardrobe on point by checking out the Hamburg-based, and very cool, whose new – and green – approach to buying clothes is nothing short of revolutionary. Pay a monthly subscription of €34 and receive four vintage/designer items that you own/borrow for up to four weeks.

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to HAMBURG daily.




Melanie Mullan take the plunge.



Situated on two hectares across Santa Monica State Beach, the Annenberg Beach House is nothing short of storied. Originally developed for actress Marion Davies by her beau

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William Randolph Hearst in the 1920s, it has evolved to become a public pool that still maintains original, oh-so-glam features. The complex also includes a children’s play area, canopies and beds, as

well as beach courts for volleyball and football. Or – cool off in the Marion Davies Guesthouse, where art exhibitions and cultural activities run throughout the year.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Los Angeles daily.




When the sun makes an appearance, there is no place Brits would rather be than at home – preferably lounging outside, enjoying a Pimm’s. Dating back to 1849, the Bristol Lido is one of the country’s oldest and, since its 2008 restoration, now boasting a sauna, steam room and hot tub.

Treat yourself to a treatment in a spa that uses bespoke oils and then enjoy views overlooking the pool while nibbling tapas from the Lido Restaurant, or finish the day at the posh poolside bar. Day passes are available for non-members but make sure to book in advance.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Bristol up to four times daily.






During the summer months Amsterdam’s pool count almost doubles with outdoor locations reopening. Flevoparkbad operates from the end of April until September (and sometimes longer depending on weather conditions) offering an Olympic-size swimming pool, as well as a lap and paddling pool. Located outside the bustling city, the journey there makes for a peaceful cycle along the canals. The space surrounding the pool provides picnic-perfect lawns and scattered trees provide shelter as well as plenty of room for sporting activities, including a playground for kids.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Amsterdam up to four times daily, and from Cork up to twice daily.


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Outdoor pools are common in Germany but locals – and tourists – also flock to Asbach-Bad for its views over the Rhine and St Rupertus Monastery. Practise your belly-flopping skills on the one-, three- and fivemetre diving boards, while kids can stay protected from the sun in the shaded toddler pool. The large open lawn area provides plenty of room for activities including beach volleyball, and the on-site café offers snacks and light refreshments. Finish the evening watching the fireworks for the annual Rhine in Flames festival this July 1 with a glass of the local Riesling.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Frankfurt twice daily.



Given its landlocked positioning, lidos and swimming baths are scattered throughout the Czech Republic. Hidden in the Sáreckém Wild Šárka valley, Divoká Šárka, aka Wild Šárka, might be one of the most peaceful settings. Two pools and a paddling pool are surrounded by a lush nature reserve; there’s also table tennis and volleyball, as well as slides and trampolines. For shelter from the heat, cabins can be hired daily and snacks are also available at the café. Explorers: venture out into the surrounding forest and enjoy the views.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Prague four times per week.

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MIAMI Florida’s snazziest city is well worth investigating, before recuperating on the Keys, finds Nancy Rockett.

Don't miss . .

Drink at . .

TOP TALENT Envelope-pushing works by Julian Schnabel, Edward Ruscha, Zoe Leonard and Dan Flavin can all be found at North Miami’s Museum of Contemporary Art, as well as pieces by emerging artists. The South Florida Cultural Consortium exhibits until August 6. (770 NE 125th St, +1 305 893 6211; MURAL MAGIC What was once a warehouse eye-sore is now a feast for the eyes: Wynwood Walls, which is essentially an open-air gallery of gargantuan-scale street art. (2520 NW 2nd Ave, +1 305 531 4411; EURO ZONE It looks like it was air-lifted in from Venice but Vizcaya Museum and Gardens is all-American. This Italianate villa is the former home of the industrialist James Deering, who built up quite the Renaissance art collection from the 1910s, now on public display. Wander around the bellissimo grounds and you’ll forget you’re in Florida altogether. (3251 S Miami Ave, +1 305 250 9133;

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to MIAMI three times weekly from September 1.

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BRILLIANTLY BONKERS First Employees Only take Manhattan and then they take … South Beach. Last year, this multi-award winning NYC West Village bar expanded into Singapore and, from last February, has been serving excellent cocktails on “SoBo”, served by white-jacketed bartenders. There’s even an antechamber for psychic readings. Interiors are Art Deco fabulous, and each night before closing at 5am, free chicken noodle soup is served. (1030 Washington Ave, +1 786 264 3945; Top, Ocean Drive is not just a draw for fancy cars but for joggers and their pooches, too. Above, the open-air art gallery that is Wynwood Walls. Right, colourful cocktails at Yardbird.

BUZZING Don’t be fooled by the virtuous Asian salads, sushi, poke, nigiri and sashimi at Watr at the 1 Rooftop – they can be sneakily offset by superb cocktails supped from a towering, seagull’s-eye viewpoint that looks out across the whole of Miami. Strings of lightbulbs twinkle from dusk onwards, the bar’s mellow soundtrack getting considerably livelier as the night goes on. (2341 Collins Ave, +1 305 604 6580;

BOURBON If bourbon is your poison, prop up a stool at Yardbird Southern Table & Bar, whose signature Old Fashioned is bacon-infused. Here, the liquor is stiff and inventive – another “Southern Classic” includes Sazerac, absinthe, grape brandy, pecan and vanilla syrup. To line the stomach, get stuck into their lip-smacking farm-to-table soul food whose emphasis is on poultry. Hence the name. (1600 Lenox Ave, +1 305 538 5220;

Sleep at . .

REBOOT Opened in April, the Four Seasons Hotel at The Surf Club’s origins stretch back to 1930, when tyre tycoon Harvey Firestone opened a private club on North Beach for the rich and fabulous (Frank Sinatra, Winston Churchill, Liz Taylor, amongst others). The historic property has been restored, while spacious, sunny, guestrooms with attractive midcentury-style furniture, are in glass towers and with uninterrupted ocean views. Just the tonic after the hedonism of Downtown. Rooms from $649. (9101 Collins Avenue, Surfside, +1 305 381 3333;

BLING Costume and set designer Catherine Martin (Moulin Rouge! and The Great Gatsby, on which she worked with her director husband Baz Luhrmann) appeared to have had a ball creating the interiors for Faena Hotel on Miami Beach. From high-profile art installations by Damien Hirst, above, and gold-leaf murals by Argentinian painter Juan Gatti, to Art Deco-inflected opulence, Faena is pure theatre. Rooms from $420. (3201 Collins Ave, +1 305 534 8800;

CALIFORNIA SOUL Born on the west coast, The Redbury hotel group fits right into Miami. The Redbury South Beach is a smart-casual, bohemian proposition in an original Art Deco building, its in-room vinyl collection curated by Capitol Records. And if you’re feeling too lazy to walk down the beach, head to the rooftop pool and bar for some serious R&R. Rooms from $200. (1776 Collins Ave, +1 305 604 1776;

SMARTY PLANTS If the jury’s still out on the raw food movement, put your money where your mouth is at Matthew Kenney’s vegan paradise Plant Food and Wine. Food is raw, dehydrated, fermented and/or smoked, and there’s also an on-site culinary school. Dishes are beautifully turned out, while the poolside setting is as tranquil as The Sacred Space wellness centre in which PF+W is located. (105 NE 24th St, +1 305 814 5365;





Top, a Damien Hirst artwork glistens in the sun at the Faena Hotel. Top right, the relaunched Four Seasons Hotel at the Surf Club and above right, The Redbury’s inviting rooftop pool. Below, the Italianate Vizcaya Museum, and, left, a vegan masterpiece at Plant Food and Wine.

Eat at . .

SUGAR RUSH So successful was Salty Donut’s food truck that it threw down permanent roots in Wynwood – and reached peak hipster when it launched a rainbow coloured “Unicorn” doughnut in April. Don’t hold that against it, though, since it was for a local charity. Flavours change weekly. (50 NW 23rd St, +1 305 925 8126; TACO LOCO Also in Wynwood (there’s also one in Brickell) is Coyo Taco, a Mexican taqueria. Long, out-the-door queues of young funsters are the norm, but hang on in there as super-fresh snacks await. As does a “secret” bar out back, serving moreish margaritas and more than 100 tequilas and mezcal. (2300 NW 2nd Ave, +1 305 573 8228;


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Bernard and Rosemary Walsh

Walsh Whiskey Distillery at Royal Oak

ne of the best kept secrets of Ireland’s Ancient East is County Carlow. Only one hour from Dublin airport and neighbouring the bustle and sights of 12th century Kilkenny, Carlow offers discerning visitors the chance to be near the action but far from the madding crowds. Carlow’s boutique hotels and period house B&Bs (e.g. Kilgraney House, Lorum Old Rectory, The Lord Bagenal, etc) offer charming retreats with a personal touch. Alternatively, nearby Mount Juliet Estate, with its equestrian centre and Jack Nicklaus golf course, is world-class. The countryside has walking trails and cycle paths to explore, easy hikes up Mount Leinster (2,612 feet) and barge trips on the gentle River Barrow. Twenty minutes from Kilkenny City, on the banks of the River Barrow is the Royal Oak Estate. Built in 1755, the estate predates Dublin’s legendary Guinness brewery. Today it is home to Walsh Whiskey Distillery, one of the largest whiskey distilleries in Ireland and a leader of the Irish whiskey renaissance. Bernard and Rosemary Walsh, started

Enjoy a tour and tasting at Walsh Whiskey Distillery

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their business from their kitchen in 1999. Now their two premium whiskeys, The Irishman and Writers’ Tears are available in 40 countries worldwide. The distillery produces all three styles of Irish whiskey – pot still, malt and grain – and hosts visitors interested in experiencing the sights, smells and tastes of hand-crafted whiskey distilling. All local pubs will have a good selection of whiskeys, but the best is likely to be in any of the 10 that are members of the Kilkenny Whiskey Guild. They stock hundreds of Irish whiskeys between them and the bar staff have the expert knowledge to guide your palate. Irish whiskey distilling is an ancient art, the first written account dates back to the 14th century, however, it’s a modern pastime compared to the Brownshill Dolmen 20 minutes from Walsh Whiskey Distillery. This megalithic tomb was built between 3000 and 4000 B.C. and has the largest capstone in Europe, weighing 103 tonnes. If walled gardens with a touch of Downton Abbey is more your style then just 15 miles from the distillery gate is Duckett’s Grove, a dramatic Gothic-styled 19th century ruin but with wonderfully stocked gardens. Nearby, Altamont Gardens is the jewel in Ireland’s gardening crown and offers an enchanting blend of formal and informal gardens with riverside walks covering over 40 acres. July is the perfect month to stop and smell the roses, literally, with the Carlow Garden Festival kicking off a 10-day celebration of some of the county’s most beautiful flora. County Carlow is a treasure trove of spectacular gardens and the festival offers something for everyone from novice gardeners to garden connoisseurs. So as the old rebel song says, “follow me up to Carlow” for the best of hidden Ireland and a drop of the Irish!



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Dohen y & Nesbitt 4 / 5 L O W E R B A G G O T S T R E E T, D U B L I N

Live music Every Sunday and Monday from 8pm Food served all Day, Breakfast Lunch & Dinner Private function rooms available A Dublin Landmark…

One of Dublin’s oldest pubs, situated in the heart of Dublin City Centre. Doheny & Nesbitts is a haunt for many of the country’s leading politicians, sports and media personalities with bars and function rooms over three levels. Why not sample the finest in Irish food and drink. Come and enjoy the craic and the banter in Doheny & Nesbitts - Just a 1 minute walk from St. Stephens’ Green, a must for any trip to Dublin.

Voted overall

best pub in Ireland in the hospitality Ireland awards

W: T: 00353 (0) 1 6762945 E:


Making travel work for you





BELIEVE IN GENEVA Clare O’Dea reveals all you need to know before visiting this swish Swiss city.

A DAY IN THE LIFE Running a creative agency and managing a techno star means full days for David De Valera.

HOLLYWOOD PROPER RESIDENCES Melanie Mullan checks in to a glamorous Hollywood haven.

SIX THINGS I’VE LEARNT Cyberpsychologist Mary Aiken shares her career learnings and opens her travel journal.


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small city with big credentials, Geneva is surrounded by great natural beauty and served by excellent, business-friendly infrastructure, offering the perfect setting to combine work and play. Built at the junction of the Rhône and Arve rivers, where the former exits the western corner of Lake Geneva, the city has a long history as a trading town. Traders developed into bankers, establishing one of the main pillars of the local economy. Today, Geneva’s thriving financial sector counts 140 banks, including 60 foreign imports. The cosmopolitan city is also home to dozens of major international organisations, including the European headquarters of the United Nations and the famous CERN research centre, as well as 200 diplomatic missions and 140 multinational companies. Traditionally very open to newcomers, the city’s foreign population stands at 40 per cent. It is no surprise, then, that the city is a magnet for business travellers. The airport is just four kilometres from the central business district, with its elegant old buildings and stunning views of the Alps and the water. Geneva is compact and pleasant to stroll around, a boutique city that caters for the international decisionmaking and money-making elite. And, on a hot day, visitors can do as the locals do – jump in the lake.


Author of The Naked Swiss: A Nation Behind 10 Myths, Clare O’Dea offers an inside scoop on Geneva.


TWO-IN-ONE Near the lake, the Hamburger Foundation grew from a street-food venture and serves locally sourced and organic beef. The main restaurant in the Pâquis district has table service, a cocktail bar and outside seating, while the Plainpalais offering has counter-service. At the back of the Pâquis restaurant is Chez Henri, an oyster and wine bar. No reservations. (Rue Philippe Plantamour 37, +41 22 310 0044;

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PRETTY PATIO The stylish Café des Bains in the central Plainpalais district offers a fresh, creative take on bistro food, right. Its unassuming exterior also conceals a best-kept secret, one of Geneva’s prettiest restaurant patios at the back of the building. Open until 2am on weekend nights and a popular spot for a late drink, the restaurant is directly opposite MAMCO, Geneva’s contemporary art museum. (Rue des Bains 26, +41 22 320 2122;

HISTORIC A little distance from the Old Town – opposite the Paroisse du Petit-Saconnex church – the quaint Café du Soleil has been serving Genevans and travellers for around 400 years. The cosy, relaxed venue serves traditional staples of Swiss cuisine, and is famous for its fondue and desserts. The small outdoor seating area in the shade of a linden tree lends the place a village ambiance. (6 Place du Petit-Saconnex, +41 22 733 3417;


Population: 200,000 approx, of which almost half are foreign nationals Currency: Swiss Franc Average temperature, July: 20°C Official language: French


arriving at Geneva International Airport are entitled to free public transport for 80 minutes. This offer continues for anyone staying in the city’s hotels for the duration of their trip. For those who plan to take an extra day or two to explore the city, the Geneva Pass (one-, two- or three-day) is excellent value and a great source of ideas for activities, including boat trips, kayak rental, a visit to Geneva Beach and entrance to a host of museums, including Patek Philippe.

» ON THE WATER One of the


» WATCH HISTORY Famed as a watchmaking centre for centuries, Geneva is heaven for timepiece geeks. There is no better place to get your fix than at the Patek Philippe Museum, which tells the story of Patek Philippe and Swiss watchmaking from the 16th century to now. The antiques collection showcases thousands of Swiss, European and Genevan-made watches and timepieces. The museum is housed in an early 20thcentury building formerly used for watchmaking and associated crafts such as gem-cutting. (Rue des Vieux-Grenadiers 7, +41 22 807 0910;

most popular swimming spots is the Bains des Pâquis, situated on an artificial peninsula on the Rive Droite (Right Bank) in the Pâquis District. These public baths are a Geneva institution that once inspired a popular referendum to save the 1930s architecture. Entry is cheap and you can swim and sunbathe on the lake or pool side. The view of the famous Jet d’Eau fountain on the opposite bank adds to the fun. The baths have a decent restaurant and two hammams open all year round. (Quai du Mont-Blanc 30, +41 22 732 2974;

AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to GENEVA daily.


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VIBRANT One of the six distinctive hotels of Geneva’s Manotel Group, all located within a few 100 yards of each other in the Pâquis district, is the bohochic Hôtel N’vY, right. Just 10 minutes’ walk from the main Mont Blanc Bridge, its rooms on the upper floors have views of the lake. It’s also notable for its colourful decor – not for the faint-hearted, which could provide welcome relief and stimulation after a day of meetings. Rooms from CHF 205/€187. (Rue de Richemont 18, +41 22 544 6666; CHARMING In the heart of the Old Town, Hotel les Armures, below, has had its share of famous guests – Queen Sofia of Spain, George Clooney and Richard Branson. Painstakingly restored over decades, the 17th century house is near the most famous Old Town landmarks, such as the Cathedral of St Pierre, the Arsenal and many museums. The hotel restaurant has an excellent reputation too and a charming terrace. Rooms from CHF 318/€290. (Rue Puits St Pierre 1, +41 22 310 9172;

PRESTIGE A stone’s throw from the lake is the family-owned Hotel Bristol, right, which backs onto the prestigious 19th-century Mont Blanc Square. Within easy reach of shopping and business districts and very close to all the lake’s amenities, the hotel also offers “Ladies First” rooms catering specially for women travellers. Rooms from CHF 420/€384. (Rue du Mont Blanc 1, +41 22 716 5700;

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What do you like about doing business in Geneva? It’s a beautiful setting with a great lifestyle and fantastic infrastructure. You appreciate that even more when you travel – the green spaces, the clean air, the cleanliness everywhere and the buses coming on time. The Swiss-made brand is extremely important too, allowing us to take advantage of the values that Switzerland represents in the world, such as neutrality, professionalism and quality. For a company like ourselves spread out in 64 markets, some of which have political tensions, that makes a huge difference. Where do you like to take clients? Our workspace is very open and dynamic and we are more likely to have collaborators than clients. We run three co-working Seedspaces in Geneva – La Chevillarde in a 19th-century Swiss mansion (Chemin de la Chevillarde 11), La Praille, with a more industrial vibe (Route des Jeunes 47B), and the Flux Laboratory (Rue JacquesDalphin 10; where we hold events. Because we have on-site restaurants such as in La Praille, and a great catering service with our partners Oggi, as well as lots of entrepreneurs under one roof, there are always cool people to meet in the kitchen or restaurant in between calls or meetings. These spaces are open to everyone. People can have a day pass, a week pass or just come to the restaurant. Where do you go to socialise? Boréal Café (Rue du Stand 60, +41 22 310 69 60; is a very cool place during the day. The Eaux Vives area is very lively at night, and Plaine de Plainpalais in the Plainpalais district is also very nice at the weekend with its Saturday flea market and Sunday farmers’ market. Across the river Arve is Carouge, a very cute little town, known as the Greenwich Village of Geneva. What else do you do in your free time in Geneva? The lake has a lot to offer – boat trips, swimming, walks. There are plenty of very central places to swim, like the Bains des Pâquis [see “Get Smart” on page 109], and the walks along the lake on the right bank and the left bank are beautiful. It is also a good place to run. I love climbing the Salève, which is a mountain 20 kilometres outside Geneva. You can also get the cable car up and the views are amazing. I really enjoy the parks and green areas, especially Parc des Bastions, just below the Old Town.


Alisée de Tonnac is CEO and co-founder of the Geneva-based Seedstars Group, a company builder that runs an international startup competition covering more than 60 developing markets. It also operates Seedspaces, a global network of co-working and co-living spaces. The young entrepreneur is well suited to living in an international city: she was born in France, grew up in Singapore and has lived in the United States, Italy and Nigeria.



Collect three Avios points for every €1 you spend, every time you fly with Aer Lingus or our partner airlines, excl. taxes, charges and ancillaries.




6.30am My girlfriend wakes at 5am, which usually wakes me, but I need a little more time, especially if I’ve been on tour. First port of call is my phone, not to check email but for Spotify. Even though I’ve worked in electronic music for 15-plus years, I love my 1980s power ballad playlist the moment I wake up. I make juice with all sorts of spirulina, chia, vitamin D and fish oils. It has become a ritual and if I don’t have the ingredients I feel a significant difference in my wellbeing. I also began meditating 18 months ago and it has changed my life. It clears my mind of the day-to-day stresses and I start the day in a positive headspace. 8am My days are pretty full on: managing the career of a techno artist, as well as Circulate, a creative agency that connects brands and people through music. I speak to my business partner and team about current projects – anything from branding and design, to a pitch for a new client. Our collective expertise has developed nicely over the past few years; we now have a group of high-level marketeers who know the music industry inside out. We have a global approach, working internationally with many clients, constantly pushing to realise ambitious new concepts and campaigns. We always have new challenges and that’s what keeps it interesting. The team is fantastic – we honestly couldn’t do it without them. I have a daily call with Matador’s manager – it’s always a fantastically positive call. Watch this space for our new company SPIKE Management later in 2017 …

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Alongside co-running the dynamic creative agency Circulate, Dublin-based David De Valera also manages techno artist Matador.

1pm I mostly eat in Listons or The Green Bench Café on Camden Street – without a doubt the best in the city. My afternoons consist of meetings and calls, with about 150 emails thrown in too. It’s hectic but that’s why I love this job. I was a DJ for 12 years, with residencies in POD, Dublin and I played Space, Ibiza among other international shows. I always felt I was destined to continue on that path but I’m a people person and, although I like making music, it can be quite solitary. 6pm I live and work on Camden Street, so I can walk to the office in about 30 seconds. Some people think that’s crazy but, trust me, when you can walk around the corner after a long day, it’s bliss. I leave the office and go to the gym. It’s essential, and something I do three to four times a week. My girlfriend is vegetarian and recently I’ve been eating less meat but I have been known for a late-night Deliveroo, especially from Carluccio’s. The second part of the day begins here. Usually I have some calls with our US clients or colleagues and it’s always fun catching up. 10pm I close the laptop and turn on the TV, usually just flicking or asking my girlfriend: “What’s her name?”, “What's happening?”, that type of annoying stuff. I travel a lot – this summer I’ll be in Argentina, Chile, New York, LA and Ibiza, so my evenings consist of washing and packing in a never-ending cycle that I wouldn’t change for the world.

NEW YORK At the moment we’re developing a new office for Circulate in the city that never sleeps. We work with a lot of US-based artists and brands so it’s a natural progression for us. Last time I travelled to NYC was in February and I stayed at the very comfortable Ludlow House ( on the Lower East side.

AMSTERDAM I travel to Amsterdam about six to eight times a year and it has a very special place in my heart. The people there are my favourite in the world, very much like the Irish – and the accent still cracks me up 20 years later. And nobody does electronic music quite like the Dutch. I usually stay at the Okura (, a Japanese-style hotel.

MIAMI Every time I go there I have a blast. I stay at Loews Miami Beach Hotel ( on South Beach, and I’m there every March for Miami Music Week. It’s a great time to hang out with our clients and friends in the industry, and you’re in the glistening Miami heat. What more could you want in March?

New partner appointment

From left to right: Mark Wasserman, Managing Partner, Eversheds Sutherland USA; Alan Connell, Partner and Head of Tax; and Alan Murphy, Managing Partner, Eversheds Sutherland Ireland and Chairman of Eversheds Sutherland (Europe) Limited

Alan Connell has joined international law firm Eversheds Sutherland as a Partner and Head of the firm’s tax practice. A corporate tax lawyer, Alan has advised on some of the largest inward investment and restructuring projects in Ireland. He primarily advises international corporations, including Fortune 100 companies, doing business in and from Ireland and acts as standing tax counsel to numerous international organisations in respect of their Irish operations. Previously a partner in a large Irish corporate law firm, Alan brings a wealth of experience to the tax group, which offers a wide range of tax services, combining in-depth local knowledge with international expertise. Alan Murphy, Managing Partner, Eversheds Sutherland Ireland and Chairman of Eversheds Sutherland (Europe) Limited said “We are delighted to welcome Alan Connell as Head of Tax. A lawyer of Alan’s expertise and talent expands our tax offering for clients, which is an area of growth for us, particularly in light of our combination with US law firm Sutherland, who already have strong tax credentials”. Eversheds Sutherland is the only all-Ireland full service international law firm, with 61 offices in 29 countries, providing unrivalled access to the UK, Europe, the US, the Middle East and Africa. © Eversheds Sutherland 2017. All rights reserved.




STAY A former haunt of Victorian aristocrats turned five-star hotel, 11 Cadogan Gardens is the antithesis of a soulless business hotel. Eclectic decor gives each room in this converted 19thcentury Chelsea townhouse – including the six revamped suites – a different, decadent character and the proximity to Sloane Square means getting to meetings in the City is a breeze. Rooms from £350 per night. (11 Cadogan Gardens, +44 20 7730 7000;

BOOK Chief operating officer at Facebook Sheryl Sandberg follows up her acclaimed bestseller Lean In with Option B, a highly researched take on resilience that manages to combine personal memoir with practical tips for overcoming adversity. Joining forces with psychologist Adam Grant, Sandberg powerfully describes her grief after the premature death of her husband while Grant outlines solid steps readers can take to overcome redundancy, illness and everyday challenges.




GADGET Engineered with extreme weather conditions in mind, Sony’s WS260 waterproof Walkman makes for a sturdy travel companion and, with Quick Charge, just three minutes of charging gives you enough power for a 60-minute journey. Weighing just 32g, the wireless MP3 Player connects to your smartphone via Bluetooth so you can stream your favourite playlists, whether you need to zone out on the plane or soundtrack your post-meetings workout. Priced from €129 at

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APP Virtual travel valet DUFL tackles two of the most loathed tasks that go hand-in-hand with regular travel: packing and laundry. After you download the app, DUFL will collect your packed suitcase and your items are added to your account so you have a “virtual closet” to pick from. By the magic of FedEx, your freshly laundered items will be waiting for you whenever and wherever you next check in.


LUGGAGE Inspired by tales of travel woe from dead smartphone batteries to broken suitcases, Away has come up with what it calls “thoughtful luggage”. Minimalist in design but high in functionality, the lightweight smart suitcase comes in a scuff-resistant, unbreakable shell and, with the built-in battery, you’re never stuck when you need to check your emails or pull up a map. Carry on from $225 at

Looking for that extra edge? Lisa Hughes finds what’s new and helpful.


EAT For a to-die-for view of Venice, you’d be hard pressed to find better than the terrace overlooking the Grand Canal at De Pisis, gourmet restaurant of the luxurious Bauer Palazzo. Well-known chef Giovanni Ciresa has recently returned to the five-star hotel to work alongside executive chef Martino Longo on a modern Venetian menu, so you can bet your next gondola ride that the food will match the view. (S. Marco 1413, +39 041 520 7022;


EVENT Fake news is unsurprisingly a hot topic at Digital Publishing Summit in New York this July 17-18, a major event for digital publishers and anyone working in news content. High-profile industry voices including Kate Lewis, editorial director at Hearst, and Mike Dyer, president and publisher of The Daily Beast, will speak on the major challenges, ranging from monetising content and ad-blockers to the rise of video. (Sheraton Times Square,

Building the present, creating the future Delivering construction Solutions for: · Healthcare Facilities · Commercial Offices · FDI Hi-Tech Facilities · Biopharma · Pharmaceutical · Cleanrooms · Agri/ Dairy Food · Infrastructure · PPP Investment And FM Services

Building in Ireland for 60 years; it’s in our DNA

Business Hotel


Melanie Mullan finds Hollywood Proper Residences shooting for the stars.

THE LOWDOWN Channel your inner A-lister at Hollywood Proper Residences, which, although having opened in June 2016, now has four new penthouses and – for longer-term blow-ins – stays of seven nights or more. Depending on how long you want to be in LA – indefinitely? – there’s the choice of furnished and unfurnished apartments, each equipped with top-end appliances, an achingly cool combination of vintage and contemporary furniture and blockbuster, floor-to-ceiling views of the Columbia Square neighbourhood. Its West Coast cool interiors are the creation of designer Kelly Wearstler for Kilroy Development,

whose neutral colour palette reflects those glorious vistas. Panoramas can also be enjoyed at its Filifera lounge – the neighbourhood’s highest rooftop bar and boasting 360-degree views of Tinseltown. Proper Hospitality is available to cater to your every whim and there’s even a concierge app and in-room tablets should you be feeling too starry for conversation with civilians … Kilroy are also opening residencies in Downtown LA, San Francisco, Santa Monica and Austin over the next 18 months. Prices from $2,000 for a sevennight stay. (1550 N El Centro Ave, +1 323 465 7767;

WORKING LUNCH Visitors to multicultural LA are truly spoilt for choice food-wise, something that can make eating out a tough decision. Sugarfish Sushi has expanded into multiple locations across the greater Los Angeles area and is a dead cert, serving only the highest quality dishes created by chef Nozawa. Still feeling indecisive? Go for the “Trust Me” option.

DOWN TO BUSINESS All apartments come with free Wi-Fi and, should you need to arrange meetings or conferences, Proper Tech Shop support is available 24/7 and there are even admin assistants to take on both business and personal affairs. HPR have a hook up with nearby NeueHouse, which offers guests access to collaborative workspaces and conference rooms, as well as exclusive invites to cultural events. DOWNTIME Filifera rooftop bar also has a swimming pool and private cabanas but, should you wish to venture further afield, every residence has a local expert who can recommend sights and activities for all tastes. Crate diggers may lose an hour or two browsing the vinyl at the Amoeba Music store, while watching movies under the stars at the Hollywood Forever Cemetery makes a perfect end to a busy day.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Los Angeles daily.

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FUN, ADVENTURE AND RELAXATION AWAITS in The Most Complete Resort in Ireland

With over 350 acres to explore and a wealth of estate activities on offer, Ashford Castle is the perfect destination for fun, adventure and relaxation for all the family. Estate Activities include: · Spa and fitness centre · Horse riding and equestrian centre · Ireland first school of falconry

· Fishing lessons and day trips · Cycling and kayaking · Clay shooting and archery

· Zip lining and tree climbing · Lake cruising · Golf and tennis




Fine-tune your moral compass: “Few men are willing to brave the disapproval of their fellows, the censure of their colleagues, the wrath of their society – moral courage is a rarer commodity than bravery in battle or great intelligence. Yet it is the one essential, vital quality for those who seek to change a world which yields most painfully to change.” It’s important to set your own moral compass, and this Robert F Kennedy quotation inspires me, particularly in my work.



DESTINATION My favourite city to fly into is Faro in Portugal. I spend too much time on planes travelling around the world for my work, so when it comes to taking a break, a short and direct flight is best. And it’s only a 20-minute taxi ride from Faro Airport to the glorious beaches of the Algarve.


4 Cyberpsychologist DR MARY AIKEN is an academic advisor to Europol’s Cybercrime Centre, the producer and inspiration behind the show CSI:Cyber, and author of The Sunday Times’ book of the year The Cyber Effect.


Work consistently. One of the earliest pieces of career advice that I received was, “if you do the right sort of thing, in the right sort of way, over a consistent period of time, then you will be successful.” I like that expression, because it highlights the fact that consistent hard work as opposed to luck is important.

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Try new things. I have always believed in the importance of learning new skillsets and trying new things (like becoming a producer of CSI:Cyber). Education is a lifelong endeavour, as Henry Ford said: “Anyone who stops learning is old, whether at 20 or 80. Anyone who keeps learning stays young.”

Remember: Humanity. I think that the gender battles of the previous century will seem like a picnic compared with what’s coming next: the struggle between humans and artificial intelligence as we learn to coexist. We need to forget about our differences – gender, ethnicity, nationality – and focus on the thing that unites us, our humanity.


Nurture creativity. My work and research involves conceptualising technology solutions to technology facilitated problem behaviours – skills such as abstract reasoning and creativity are critical, therefore my advice would be; don’t forget to pay attention to and nurture your creativity.


Be your personal best. My lifelong favourite motivational quote is William Faulkner’s, which inspires me because the focus is on personal best: “Don’t bother just to be better than your contemporaries or predecessors. Try to be better than yourself.”

EAT AT I love Maria’s Restaurant on the beach in Vale do Lobo – their chicken piri piri is legendary, and the view of the sea is both invigorating and relaxing. (Praia do Garrão Poente, +351 289 358 675;

SLEEP AT I sometimes stay in the Dona Filipa Hotel in the Algarve, a five-star that has great sea views – and is just across the road from my favourite restaurant, above. (Vale do Lobo, 8135-034 Almancil, +351 289 357 200;

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Faro three times daily, and from Cork and Belfast ten times per week.

DUNNE & CRESCENZI Valued collection of casual Italian restaurants

History in every plate... DUNNE & CRESCENZI 14-16 South Frederick Street Dublin 2 Tel: +353 (1) 675 9892

DUNNE & CRESCENZI 11 Seafort Avenue Dublin 4 Tel: +353 (1) 667 3252

L’OFFICINA Kildare Retail Village Tel: +353 045 535850

L’OFFICINA Dundrum Town Centre Tel: +353 (1) 2166764

One Destination


BAR ITALIA 26 Lower Ormond Quay Dublin 1 Tel: +353 (1) 8741000

The latest chapter in the D&C story... DUNNE & CRESCENZI BLACKROCK SHOPPING CENTRE

Tel: +353 (1) 525 2012

Please visit after 4pm • To be sure of Entry • Great Photo Opportunities • Magical Sunsets • Less Crowded • Kids Go Free • Open until 9pm in July & August United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization

Proud to be part of the McKenna Top 100 Restaurant Guide

Co. Clare, Ireland.


T: +353 65 7086141

Burren and Cliffs of Moher UNESCO Global Geopark

Bee Ice Cr r & Weekeeam July 1 nd s & 2nd t


Inflight Sit back, relax and let Aer Lingus look after your inflight comfort and entertainment. Enjoy delicious food, the latest box office movie releases, a wide range of shopping and news from Aer Lingus.

Flying with Aer Lingus 124 Welcome aboard 126 Your comfort and safety 140 Flight Connections 142 Our Route Networks 146 Connecting to Wi-Fi Inflight Entertainment 130 Box Office Movies 132 Movie Classics 134 TV Shows 136 Boxsets 138 Music & Radio


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Welcome aboard Why not try spea king a few words of the native language while you are visiting Irelan d!

Flying with Aer Lingus means you will experience excellent customer service, comfort and, of course, safety. There’s plenty for you to enjoy on board and, on the following pages, you will discover how we’ll be taking care of you. After all, we’re here to help you make the most of your flight. If you have any special requests, be sure to let us know.

In touch with Aer Lingus If you are availing of Wi-Fi on your flight today, why not let us know what you’re up to on board and where you are going. Take a photo and post it to our Facebook page. Let us know how you’re enjoying your flight on Snapchat or Instagram. Chat to us on Twitter where you’ll also find the latest flight information. View our videos of milestone events, festivals, sponsorships and campaigns on Youtube.

Fáilte Welcome Dia dhuit Hello Slán go fóill Good bye ainm dom My name is.. . Conas atá tú? Ho w are you? Tá mé go maith I’m good Sláinte! Cheers Go raibh maith agat Thank you Gabh mo leithsc éal Excuse me Cara Friend

Guests with wheelchair requirements If you require a wheelchair to help you reach or depart from the plane, then we’re here to help you. Your comfort and safety are our priority, so please let us know at least 48 hours in advance and we will look after you. When contacting us you will need your booking reference number. Assistance Contact Details

Aer Lingus is proud to be recognised as Ireland‘s only 4-star airline, awarded by Skytrax, the world‘s leading airline and airport review specialists.

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Ireland (0818) 365 011 09:00–17:00 Mon–Fri 10:00–16:00 Sat & Sun 10:00–16:00 Bank Holidays UK (0871) 718 20 21 Europe +353 1 886 8333 USA (516) 622 4222

See Exquisite Pieces of Crystal manufactured before your eyes

“It’s crystal clear”

A factory tour where you can almost rub shoulders with the artisans as they produce beautiful objects.

“Great Tour of Waterford Crystal” Great history, very close to the process and really beautiful items.

+353 (0) 51 317000

Portable Electronic Devices You can use portable electronic equipment on flights but some devices can interfere with aircraft equipment, creating potential safety risks. Knowing how to set up your device for flight use and when to switch it on and off are therefore very important. Please note that certain devices may not be used.

Your comfort and safety When you fly with us, you want to know that we’re looking after your comfort and safety at all times. We are. It is our number one priority and our crew are trained to ensure you reach your destination as relaxed as you need to be. In return, we ask for your attention when it comes to safety announcements and knowing when, and how, to turn on your mobile, smartphone or portable device.

To avail of our Wi-Fi and Mobile Network, on our A330 aircraft, devices must be switched off flight mode – once our crew advise it is safe to do so.

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Are you ready for take-off and landing? • Is your mobile phone and/ or other portable electronic device in flight mode?

Devices permitted at any time Devices powered by micro battery cells and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers. Devices permitted in flight only* Laptops, portable CD-players, Mini-disk players, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers and electronic toys. For the comfort of other guests, audio devices should be used with a headset. If using laptops inflight please select flight safe mode before takeoff. *Not permitted during taxi/ take-off/initial climb/approach/ landing.

• Is your seatback fully upright? • Is your armrest down? • Is your tabletop stowed? • Have you stored your bags in the overhead locker or under the seat in front of you? To use your mobile phone and all other portable electronic devices during taxi, take-off or landing, they must be switched to flight mode or the flight safe setting. If you wish to use your phone during your flight, please make sure you select flight safe mode before your phone is powered off. Please note, if your device does not have a flight safe mode it may not be used on your flight. After landing and only when crew have advised that it is safe to do so, you are permitted to use your mobile phone, provided it is within easy reach. You must remain seated with your seatbelt fastened and follow the instructions of the cabin crew.

Devices prohibited at all times Devices transmitting radio frequency intentionally such as walkie-talkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and Mini-disk Recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN).** **Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.

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Your comfort and safety Here are a few tips to make your journey more comfortable: Keep moving: On longer flights particularly, try to change your sitting position regularly and avoid crossing your legs. Take a walk in the cabin once the seat belt sign is off as this will get your circulation going and refresh your legs. Ear care: Cabin pressure changes can be painful, particularly if you have a cold, sinusitis or existing ear problems. If you experience these problems during the flight, have a chat to our cabin crew. Drink up: Keep yourself hydrated throughout the flight by drinking plenty of water. Eye care: If you are a regular contact lens wearer, it is a good idea to bring your glasses with you in case your eyes feel dryer than usual. Time zones: Help beat jet lag by setting your watch to your destination’s time when you arrive on board. This will help you adjust to the new time zone faster. 128 |


A safe flight for everyone. It is worth repeating that your safety – and that of everyone on board – is our number one priority therefore we ask that you:

Please pay attention to the cabin crew while they demonstrate the use of safety equipment before take off, and we strongly recommend that you read the safety instruction card in the seat pocket in front of you.

Airbus 319

Safety For your áilteacht Fógra Sábh Sécurité Pour votre Siche rheit Für ihre Seguridad Para su a Sicurezza Per la vostr

Please do

e from Aircra


Airbus 330


For your Safety

Fógr a Sábh áilteacht Pour votre Sécurité Für ihre Siche rheit Para su Seguridad

• Please pay attention to instructions given to you by the cabin crew. • Do not consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or another guest (including Duty Free alcohol purchased from Boutique). It is illegal to do so.

not remov

Per la vostr a Sicurezza Säke rhet omb ord Sikke rhet om bord Sikke rhed om bord Pleas e do

ON Airplane

ON Airplane

not remo

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ON Airplane Mode

ON Airplane Mode

• Do not interrupt cabin crew while they carry out their duties and do not interfere with aircraft equipment. • We also want to make it clear that Aer Lingus may refuse to allow a guest on board if it is thought that too much alcohol has been consumed. • Similarly, behaviour or language towards other guests or crew members that is deemed to be threatening or abusive will not be tolerated. • Taking photographs or video of airline personnel, equipment or procedures is strictly prohibited on board. • Taking photographs or video of other guests on board without their express consent is prohibited. • You may take photos or video of guests travelling in your party for your own personal use.

In line with Irish Government regulations, Aer Lingus has a no smoking and no electronic cigarettes policy on board. These are not permitted in any part of the cabin.

HISTORY SO CLOSE IT COMES ALIVE Explore the 1916 Easter Rising & modern Irish History in a spectacular setting General Post Office, O’Connell St. Lower, Dublin 1 Tel: + 353 (0) 1 872 1916

See the city like a local. The DoDublin Card includes: • • • • •

Direct Airlink Transfer Hop on Hop off City Tour Dublin Bus Travel FREE Walking Tour FREE Little Museum Entry

3 Day Card for €33

Tickets at the Bus & Travel Information Desk or Airlink Bus Stop

Dublin’s Best Sightseeing & Travel Pass


Box Office Movies


In a city of humanoid animals, a hustling theatre impresario‘s attempt to save his theatre with a singing competition becomes grander than he anticipates even as its finalists find that their lives will never be the same.

Aer Lingus presents a variety of recently released movies for your enjoyment on board your flight. Welcome to the international multiplex cinema in the sky featuring a number of Oscar nominated films and actors.

Assassin‘s Creed


115 mins | Action Callum Lynch is a descendant of the secret Assassin‘s society. Stars Michael Fassbender, Marion Cotillard, Jeremy Irons EN FR DE IT ES

Manchester by the Sea


135 mins | Drama An uncle is forced to take care of his teenage nephew. Stars Casey Affleck, Kyle Chandler, Michelle Williams EN FR DE IT ES

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Beauty and the Beast


Collateral Beauty


129 mins | Drama A monstrous-looking prince and a young woman fall in love. Stars Emma Watson, Dan Stevens

97 mins | Drama A man questions the universe by writing to Love, Time and Death. Stars Will Smith, Edward Norton, Kate Winslet



Miss Sloane


Patriots Day

Fantastic Beasts and Where to Find Them


134 mins | Adventure Newt Scamander adventures in New York. Stars Eddie Redmayne, Colin Farrell EN FR DE IT ES ADEN ENS


Table 19

Fist Fight


91 mins | Drama A teacher is challenged to an after-school fight. Stars Ice Cube, Charlie Day, Tracy Morgan EN DE ADEN


The Founder

132 mins | Drama A formidable lobbyist takes on a powerful opponent. Stars Jessica Chastain, Mark Strong, Gugu Mbatha-Raw

133 mins | Drama A story of the 2013 Boston Marathon bombing and aftermath. Stars Mark Wahlberg, Michelle Monaghan, JK Simmons

87 mins | Comedy An ex-maid of honour sits with randomers at a wedding. Stars Anna Kendrick, Lisa Kudrow, Stephen Merchant

115 mins | Biography A businessman turns McDonald‘s into a global success. Stars Michael Keaton, Nick Offerman, John Carroll Lynch






Beauty and the Beast

This fairy tale centres on a young woman named Belle (Emma Watson), who is forced to live in an enchanted castle with a prince who is cursed to look like a hideous Beast. In time, the pair fall in love as Belle learns to see the good man hiding behind the Beast‘s monstrous exterior.

Hidden Figures


La La Land


Live by Night



127 mins | Biography Three brilliant AfricanAmerican women work at NASA. Stars Taraji P Henson, Octavia Spencer, Janelle Monáe

128 mins | Drama A jazz pianist falls for an aspiring actress in Los Angeles. Stars Ryan Gosling, Emma Stone, John Legend

123 mins | Crime Gangsters set up shop during the Prohibition era. Stars Ben Affleck, Elle Fanning, Brendan Gleeson

137 mins | Action A weary Logan cares for an ailing Professor X. Stars Hugh Jackman, Patrick Stewart, Dafne Keen





The Great Wall


103 mins | Action A mercenary is imprisoned within the Great Wall of China. Stars Matt Damon, Tian Jing, Willem Dafoe EN

The Lego Batman Movie


Why Him?






123 mins | Biography The Lovings, an interracial couple, who fought a legal battle that would end at the US Supreme Court. Stars Ruth Negga, Joel Edgerton EN DE




104 mins | Action Bruce Wayne raises a boy he has adopted. Voiced by Will Arnett, Michael Cera, Rosario Dawson

111 mins | Comedy Ned Fleming realises that his daughter‘s Silicon Valley billionaire boyfriend is about to pop the question. Stars Bryan Cranston, James Franco

103 mins | KidZone In Ancient Polynesia, Moana answers the Ocean‘s call to seek out the Demigod to set things right. Voiced by Auli‘i Cravalho, Dwayne Johnson

108 mins | KidZone A hustling theatre impresario tries to save his theatre. Stars Matthew McConaughey, Reese Witherspoon





G General PG Parental Guidance PG13 Parental Guidance. Not suitable for children under 13. R Restricted. Not suitable for children under 18.

Available in EN English FR Français DE Deutsch IT Italiano ES Español CCEN Closed Caption English ADEN Audio Descriptive English ENS English Subtitles AERLINGUS.COM |

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Movie Classics Alvin and the Chipmunks: Chipwrecked 86mins |



Contact 130 mins | Stars Jodie Foster, John Hurt

Avatar PG13 162 mins | Stars Sam Worthington, Zoe Saldana

Batman PG13 Begins 140 mins | Stars Christian Bale

Blade 120 mins | Stars Wesley Snipes, Stephen Dorff





Fantastic Four PG13 105 mins | Stars Ioan Gruffudd, Chris Evans

Hancock PG13 92 mins | Stars Will Smith, Charlize Theron

Interstellar PG13 169 mins | Stars Anne Hathaway, Jessica Chastain

Deadpool 106 mins | Stars Ryan Reynolds, Morena Baccarin


We also provide a selection of classic movies. Timeless favourites such as Superman from 1978 along with a more modern twist on the superhero in Man of Steel. We also feature a selection of Irish short films and features.



Chronicle PG13 81 mins | Stars Dane DeHaan, Alex Russell






Jupiter PG13 Ascending 127 mins | Stars Mila Kunis

Jurassic PG13 Park 127 mins | Stars Samuel L Jackson

Man Of Steel PG13 143 mins | Stars Henry Cavill, Amy Adams

Mrs PG13 Doubtfire 126 mins | Stars Robin Williams

Romeo & PG13 Juliet (1996) 121 mins | Stars Claire Danes






Superman PG (1978) 143 mins | Stars Christopher Reeve

The Dark PG13 Knight 152 mins | Stars Heath Ledger

The Dark PG13 Knight Rises 164 mins | Stars Tom Hardy

The Mask PG13 101 mins | Stars Jim Carrey, Cameron Diaz

The Other PG13 Woman 107 mins | Stars Kate Upton, Leslie Mann






The Wedding PG13 Singer 95 mins | Stars Adam Sandler

The PG13 Wolverine 118 mins | Stars Hugh Jackman

Titanic PG13 195 mins | Stars Leonardo di Caprio, Kate Winslet

X-Men: PG13 First Class 130 mins | Stars James McAvoy

You‘ve Got Mail PG 120 mins | Stars Tom Hanks, Meg Ryan






I R I S H S H O R T & F E AT U R E S

Change in R the Weather 17 mins | Stars Muiris Crowley, Joe Mullins

In the Valley R of the Moon 14 mins | Stars Eric Lalor, Stephen Mullan

Shem the PG13 Penman Sings Again 80 mins | Stars Hugh O‘Connor

The PG13 Death of a Projectionist 14 mins | Stars Ian McElhinney

The Debt PG 12 mins | Stars Lee O‘Donoghue, Susie Power

The Lost G Letter 8 mins | Voiced by Kate WInslet

The PG13 Nymph 10mins | Stars Martin Galligan, Anna Ilya Ozolina

The Young R Offenders 83 mins | Stars Alex Murphy, Hilary Rose









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WELCOME TO DUBLIN'S FINEST GASTROPUB The Old Spot offers a sophisticated dining experience within a warm and relaxed pub atmosphere. Enjoy award-winning food, fine wines, craft beers and great service to match.

Recommended by the Michelin 'Eating out in Pubs' Guide 2016 & 2017

14 Bath Avenue, Sandymount, Dublin 4. For reservations please contact us: T: +353 1 660 5599 | E: | Online reservations:

Vi c to r i a n H e r i ta g e P u b Whether you are travelling long haul or short haul a visit to The Long Hall is a must while in Ireland. Established in 1766 and celebrating 250 years in business this shrine to antiquity is one of Dublin’s oldest, most beautiful and best loved pubs, abundant in traditional charm and exuding genuine Victorian originality. Attentive Bartenders, a warm welcome and a friendly atmosphere await you. Renowned amongst locals for great Guinness.

OPEN DAILY 12.30PM 51 South Great Georges Street, Dublin 2 | Tel: +353 1 475 1590

TV Shows Aer Lingus is home to some of the most anticipated new shows on TV including comedy, drama, documentary, lifestyle, business, sports and kids programmes.

An Experience with Conor McGregor

Modern Family This American television mockumentary sitcom revolves around three different types of families living in the Los Angeles area who are all related. It gives us an honest and often hilarious look into the sometimes warm, sometimes twisted, embrace of the modern family. On board is Series 7, Episodes 1 & 2.

The notorious MMA fighter Conor McGregor speaks to MMA journalist Ariel Helwani, and entertains a sold-out audience in an exclusive one night only event in Manchester.



Business Planet, Real Economy Looking at a range of enterprises CNBC Conversation Series 1, Episode 2, Bertrand Piccard talks about circumnavigating the globe Futuris Compilation, Scientific & technological research projects One Second in F1 Racing Series 1, Episode 9, The Future of F1 Studio 1.0 An interview with Napster co-founder Sean Parker Tech Transformers Uber‘s first employee Ryan Graves The Edge Series 1, Episode 6, Matt Damon discusses his foundation C O M E DY

Ballers Series 1, Episodes 6 & 7, A retired NFL player turns into a financial manager Undateable Series 2, Episodes 1 & 2, A group of close-knit friends live in Detroit The Grinder Series 1, Episode 1 & 2, A popular TV lawyer returns to his hometown to work The Last Man on Earth Series 1, Episode 7, A lone survivor travels through a post-apocalyptic world 2 Broke Girls Series 4, Episodes 4 & 5, Two young women waitress at a diner to raise money 134 |


Beer Geeks Series 1, Episode 14 , A brewery in Massachusetts Globe Trekker Series 17, Episode 1, Architectural history Heston‘s Dinner in Space Series 1, Episode 1, Heston Blumenthal takes a look at food in space How It‘s Made: Dream Cars Series 3, Episode 2, The Camaro Looking for the Hobbit Series 1, Episode 2, John Howe visits the French forest of Brocéliane Paris Couture One-Off Special, Haute couture‘s revival Race for the White House Series 1, Episode 2, Abraham Lincoln Raw Travel Series 5, Episode 7, Utah for the adventurous traveller The Story of God with Morgan Freeman Series 1, Episode 2 Tracks and Trails Series 6, Episode 5, Hiking Trails in Sligo DR AMA

Falling Water Series 1, Episode 1, Three people share a link Jane the Virgin Series 2, Episode 1, Sin Rostro demands a ransom Supergirl Series 1, Episode 1, Supergirl embraces her powers The Flash Series 3, Episodes 2 & 3, Barry meets his new co-worker and the city is attacked

Videojug A selection of how-to videos containing tips and advice on a range of topics including beauty, style, food and drink, money and careers.


Be Your Own Boss Series 1, Episode 1, Anchor meets Terence Lewis at an event Culturefox Series 1, Episode 9, A guide to Irish cultural events Diplo Presents: @Large – Creators at Work Series 1, Episode 7, Profiling artists from around the world Getaways Series 1, Episode 17, Joe and Angela visit Toronto HitRecord on TV Series 2, Episode 3, School themed music How to Cook Well with Rory O'Connell Series 2, Episode 2, Rory prepares some tasty dishes Room to Improve Series 9, Episode 3, Dermot Bannon takes on another renovation Say Yes to the Dress Series 14, Episode 1, Finding the perfect wedding dress Whiskey Business Series 1, Episode 3 & 4, The Teeling brothers face risks and delays NEWS & EVENTS

In addition to our extensive selection of TV shows, Aer Lingus brings you exclusive weekly news updates, as well as updates from the world of sport.


American Motor Stories Series 1, Episode 2, Classic drag racing cars from the 50s–70s Classic Rugby Matches Lions v Australia 2001, 1st Test Classic Rugby Matches Lions v Australia 2001, 2nd Test Great Sporting Moments Series 1, Episode 4, A look at some great sporting moments K I DZ O N E

Doodle‘s House Compilation, A step-by-step drawing show presented by a cartoonist Giving Tales Series 1, Episode 1–9, Hans Christian Anderson‘s fairy tales Planet Cosmo Series 1, Episode 3 & 4, Cosmo and her family explore our solar system Ultimate Spider-Man Series 2, Episode 2, An enemy takes control of the city‘s electricity Victorious Series 3, Episode 4, Andre has a bossy girlfriend Zig & Sharko Compilation, Zig battles a polar bear

Brasserie Sixty6 has been voted by locals as Dublin’s best restaurant many times! Based in the heart of the city centre, open seven days a week, serving lunch, dinner and an exciting brunch menu from 10am Saturday and Sunday. OUR MENU FEATURES HEARTY, HOME STYLE FAVOURITES USING THE BEST OF FRESH IRISH PRODUCE. TO PAIR WITH THE FOOD WE’VE GOT A SUPERB WINE LIST WITH OVER 100 WINES FROM ALL OVER THE GLOBE AND AN EXTENSIVE LIST OF HANDCRAFTED SIGNATURE DRINKS AND COCKTAILS.

66-67 South Great Georges Street, Dublin 2. For bookings please call 01-4005878

TasteBudd - it’s the app for foodies!

DON’T FORGET TO CHECK-IN - FACEBOOK: brasseriesixty6restaurant Twitter: brasseriesixty6

The Leftovers Season 2


In the second season of this enthralling series, Kevin and others pick up the pieces in the aftermath of the Mapleton riots, Laurie tries to spread the word about the dangers of the Guilty Remnant, Nora awakens in the midst of an earthquake to find Kevin missing, Matt seeks answers about his wife‘s condition, and much more.

Choose from five boxsets to watch on board today. Delve into historical time-travel series, Outlander, the horror drama The Walking Dead or the post-apocalyptic The Leftovers. Also on board are Vikings and Gotham.

Created by Damon Lindelof, Emmy Award winner for Lost, and acclaimed novelist Tom Perrotta. Cast regulars for season two include Justin Theroux, Amy Brenneman, Christopher Eccleston, Liv Tyler, Carrie Coon, Ann Dowd, Margaret Qualley, Chris Zylka, Regina King, Kevin Carroll, Jovan Adepo and Janel Moloney. On board are Episodes 1–10, Season 2.

The Walking Dead, Season 6/7 Episode 9: Daryl, Abraham and Sasha face-off against the Saviors. Episode 10: Rick and Daryl cross paths with Jesus. Episode 11: Jesus takes Rick and the group to the Hilltop Colony. Episode 12: Rick leads a surprise attack against the Saviors. Episode 13: Carol and Maggie must fight for their lives. Episode 14: A supply run led by Daryl turns chaotic. Episode 15: Rick and Morgan set out in the search for Carol. Episode 16: Morgan continues his search for Carol. Episode 1: Rick and the group kneel helplessly as they suffer a loss. Episode 2: Carol and Morgan are brought to a community.

Vikings, Season 4 Episode 1: Events unfold beyond Ragnar‘s control. Episode 2: Ragnar and Floki are still at odds. Episode 3: Ragnar tells Floki he has to pay a price for his actions. Episode 4: Ragnar gets to know the new slave woman. Episode 5: Halfdan the Black arrives in Kattegat. Episode 6: Ragnar reveals his plan to raid Paris again. Episode 7: Ragnar carries out his plan of attack. Episode 8: After facing defeat, Ragnar refuses to retreat. Episode 9: The Vikings finally reach the river. Episode 10: Ragnar must fight against Rollo.

Gotham, Season 3 Episode 1: Gordon looks for answers about the escapees. Episode 2: Fish Mooney takes matters into her own hands. Episode 3: A hypnotist arrives in Gotham to search for his sister. Episode 4: Penguin gains leverage over Gotham City. Episode 5: Penguin struggles to uphold his promises to the city. Episode 6: Mad Hatter sets his eyes on his next victims. Episode 7: Jim Gordon gets led on a psychedelic trip. Episode 8: Captain Barnes starts to go mad. Episode 9: Gordon and Bullock become suspicious of Barnes. Episode 10: A threat to Leslie and Mario is exposed.

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Outlander Season 2 Season two of this historical time-travel series finds Claire (played by award-winning Irish actress Caitriona Balfe), Jamie and Murtagh in Paris as they plan to infiltrate the Royal Court of France, forge allegiances and disrupt the Jacobite Rebellion. The earthiness and organic colours of the Scottish Highlands have been exchanged for stylish Parisian costumes, colours and architecture, but its wilderness is never far away as life-changing battles loom on the horizon for all concerned. On board are Episodes 1–10, Season 2.

Historic O’Neill’s


the famous Molly Malone Statue opposite O’Neill’s

Set in the heart of the city, O’Neill’s is one of Dublin’s most famous and historic pubs. When you pay us a visit you will receive a warm welcome and enjoy its ageless character, numerous alcoves, snugs, nooks and crannies. To make your visit enjoyable we offer you ...

Whiskey & Brunch Experience Guided tours Whiskey courses Venue hire Voted Whiskey tastings Top 10

• Extensive Irish Food Menu and Famous • Pour Your Own Pint tables Carvery serving only the finest Irish • Free Wi-Fi to all our Customers Meat, Fish and Vegetables. In fact, • For the whiskey connoisseur there’s Lonely Planet rate us as one of the our Whiskey Bar where you’ll find a Top 5 Places to find ‘Real Irish food fantastic selection of Irish whiskeys in Dublin’ and malts • Irish Music and Traditional Irish • HD and 3D Screens for the Sports Fan Dancing 7 nights-a-week with major international league games. • Roof-Top Beer Garden and Smoking Area • Our ‘Really Good’ Full Irish Breakfast • Largest selection of local Irish can’t be beaten for quality and Craft Beers on draught in Ireland, value. 11 items plus tea/coffee and representing as many of the local toast only €7.95, Pictured below. This Craft Breweries as possible, rotating special offer is available Mon-Fri and guesting beers only, 8am-11.30am.

in Dublin Traditional Irish Music and Dancing 7 nights-a-week.

Head Chef Dave carving from a selection of freshly roasted meats at the Carvery.

Our ‘Really Good’ Breakfast Menu is served 7 days a week.




M.J. O’Neill, Suffolk Street, Dublin 2. Tel. 01 679 3656 Mon-Thurs: 8.00am-11.30pm Fri: 8.00am-12.30am Sat: 8.00am-12.30am Sun: 8.00am-11.00pm SatNav 53.343958, -6.260796

Top 5 places to find Real Irish Food in Dublin

Music & Radio Browse through our selection of music and create your own playlist from a collection of over 1,000 albums. On Demand Radio allows you to select and view your favourite radio shows.


Superwoman is the fourth studio album by English singer-songwriter Rebecca Ferguson. She came to prominence in 2010 when she became the runner-up of the seventh series of The X Factor, losing to the winner that year, Matt Cardle.


The Blue of the Night Carl Corcoran, RTÉ Lyric FM EASY LISTENING

An hour long compilation of easy listening songs from Fitzpatrick Hotels INDIE

Lost in Music Louise Duffy, Today FM IRISH

Late Date Fiachna Ó Braonáin, RTÉ Radio 1 Pop Charts Compilation of favourite pop songs The Greatest Hits of All Time Michael Comyn, RTÉ Gold The Big Breakfast with Cooper & Luke 98FM The Nicky Byrne Show with Jenny Greene RTÉ 2fm TA L K

Ceol na Gael Seán Ó hÉanaigh, RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta Irish Pulse Compilation of Irish artists K I DZ O N E

Happy Days with Clara Clara Murray, RTÉ Junior ROCK

Documentary on One RTÉ Radio 1, Two documentaries on board: a brave Irishman whose bravery led to a campaign to name a warship after him and a couple who’ve had their smartphones taken away. Best of Moncrieff Seán Moncrieff, Newstalk

Marty Miller Radio Nova

Movie and Musicals This show features a wide range of soundtracks from early classics, right through to contemporary scores from the world of musicals. Presented by Aedín Gormley from RTÉ Lyric FM.

138 |

Rebecca Ferguson


David Bowie No Plan compiles the original songs written for David Bowie‘s Broadway musical, Lazarus and was released posthumously on January 8th 2017, coinciding with his 70th birthday. The songs were first recorded by the cast of the musical as part of its official soundtrack and include the tracks Lazarus, No Plan, Killing a Little Time, and When I Met You.

We appreciate your feedback on our inflight content. Tell us what you think, send us a tweet!

Gavin James Bitter Pill is the debut studio album from Dublin singer-songwriter Gavin James, featuring the popular hits For You, Nervous and the soul-infused title track Bitter Pill, which won Irish Song of the Year at Ireland’s Choice Music Prize in 2015 and received rave reviews following a performance on James Corden’s The Late Late Show. Find out more about Gavin, his creative process and his success as he introduces tracks off this spectacular debut.


Aretha Franklin The Essential Aretha Franklin Barry Manilow Tryin‘ to Get the Feeling Billy Joel Glass Houses Elvis Presley Elvis Is Back! Roy Orbison The Ultimate Collection A LT E R N AT I V E

CRX New Skin Jimmy Eat World Integrity Blues MUNA About U The Black Moods Medicine The Shins Heartworms Tom Grennan Something in the Water CL ASSIC AL

Glenn Gould 50 Masterworks – Glenn Gould Gustavo Dudamel & Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra New Year‘s Concert 2017 (Neujahrskonzert 2017) Mauro Peter & Helmut Deutsch Schumann: Dichterliebe & Selected Songs Various Artists Bill Turnbull‘s Relaxing Classics Various Artists Mitologia – Handel: Arias & Duets


Jessie James Decker Gold Kane Brown Kane Brown Kelsea Ballerini The First Time Kenny Chesney Cosmic Hallelujah Luke Combs This One‘s for You Miranda Lambert The Weight of These Wings


David Orlowsky Trio Paris – Odessa Nick Finzer Hear & Now Nils Petter Molvaer Buoyancy The Bad Plus Made Possible Tony Bennett I Left my Heart in San Francisco Various Artists Tony Bennett Celebrates 90

Zara Larsson So Good is the second studio album by 19-year-old Swedish pop sensation Zara Larsson and features a string of hit singles including Lush Life, Never Forget You and the highly infectious Symphony.


Faithless Sunday 8 PM Jean-Michel Jarre Electronica 1: The Time Machine Major Lazer Peace is the Mission Saint Etienne Smash the System Singles 1990–99 Various Big Beats Various Big Beats 2 IR ISH


Bullet for My Valentine Fever In Flames Clayman Judas Priest Redeemer of Souls Judas Priest Turbo 30 (Remastered) Ozzy Osbourne Diary of a Madman OPER A

Celtic Thunder Emmet Cahill‘s Ireland

Leonard BernsteinACT01 West Side Story

Daithi In Flight Damien Dempsey It‘s All Good – The Best of Damien Dempsey Gavin James Bitter Pill Hare Squead Supernormal Hermitage Green Live at the Curragower Bar

Paul Potts One Chance Plácido Domingo, Pablo Heras-Casado & Orquestra de la Comunitat Valenciana Verdi Various Opera‘s Legendary Performances 2 Various Sacred Duets Verdi Opera‘s Greatest Duets


Aaron Carter LøVë James Arthur Back from the Edge Rag‘n‘Bone Man Human The Chainsmokers Collage Various Artists BBC Radio 1‘s Live Lounge 2016 Zara Larsson So Good RNB

Charlie Wilson In It to Win It Izzy Bizu A Moment of Madness John Legend Darkness and Light Khalid American Teen Rebecca Ferguson Superwoman Syd Fin


AC/DC Highway to Hell Bruce Springsteen Chapter and Verse David Bowie No Plan Kings of Leon Walls Mallory Knox Wired Sundara Karma Youth is Only Ever Fun in Retrospect K I DZ O N E

City of London Sinfonia; Stuart Hancock We‘re Going on a Bear Hunt Hans Christian Anderson Giving Tales Kidz Bop Kids Kidz Bop 30 Ken Elkinson Around the Globe in a Lullaby Volume 2 Leonard Bernstein Bernstein Favorites: Children‘s Classics Various Artists Too Cool for School, Mixtape for Kids


| 139

Flight Connections at Dublin Airport

Dublin Airport provides FREE Wi-Fi throughout the Terminal

Welcome to Dublin Airport Are your bags checked through to your final destination?

YES Follow signs for Flight Connections

Naisc Eitilte Flight Connections

Where are you flying to?

NO Follow the signs for ‘Baggage Reclaim’. After clearing passport control, your baggage belt will be displayed on the screens. Collect your bags, exit through Customs and proceed to Aer Lingus Check-in Terminal 2.

USA USA GATES 401– 426 15 minutes walk to gate

Our staff are on hand for any queries you might have. Here you can, collect your onwards boarding pass and check your next boarding gate and flight status

Gate Information Screens

Passport Control and Security Screening

GATES 401–426 15 minutes walk to gate GATES 101–335 20 minutes walk to gate

Have all your required forms filled out.

Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk


Follow signs for US Preclearance

Geataí Gates


Hand Baggage search Follow signs for Flight Connections

Enjoy refreshments in one of the restaurants or cafés.

Departure Gate

AerClub Concierge, Platinum and Silver members are welcome to visit the Aer Lingus Lounge. You can work, eat, drink or even grab a shower between flights.

140 |


If you have any queries about your connecting flight at any of our North American destinations please ask us. We will do everything we can to get you to where you need to be.

Flight Connections T2 London Heathrow


Geataí Gates Réamh-Imréitach SAM U.S. Preclearance

Duty free purchases containing liquids over 100ml must be in a sealed and tamper-proof bag with the receipt inside.

Flight Connections for North American destinations

On arrival at Terminal 2, Heathrow, please follow the purple signs for Flight Connections. Which terminal are you flying from? For Terminals 3, 4 and 5, a dedicated bus will transfer you. Buses are free and depart every six to ten minutes. If you are flying from Terminal 2, proceed to security screening and enter the departures lounge. Security screening You will pass through security screening at this point. Your hand baggage will be checked to ensure it conforms to UK and EU regulations. Liquids in containers over 100ml are not allowed through security. Departure lounge Check the screens in the departure lounge for when your gate opens and when your flight is ready for boarding.

VOTED NO.1 Gastro Bar In Ireland


1 The Parade, Kilkenny +353 (0) 567750016 View our menus

Our European and North American Route Network

Edmonton Saskatoon


Regina Winnipeg


Thunder Bay

Victoria Seattle Duluth


Minneapolis Eugene


Milwaukee Madison

Sioux Falls


Grand Rapids


Des Moines




Fort Wayne Akron Canton Chicago

Fresno Las Vegas Monterey San Luis Obispo Los Angeles Santa Barbara Palm Springs Burbank Santa Ana Long Beach San Diego



San Francisco


Oklahoma City


Phoenix Tucson

Hyannis Nantucket Martha’s Vineyard

New York (JFK) Philadelphia Baltimore

Richmond Norfolk Raleigh–Durham

Columbia Charleston

El Paso Houston




Greenville Atlanta

Dallas (Fort Worth)


Honolulu Kahului



Memphis Little Rock


Portland ME

Washington (National)






Washington (Dulles)


San Jose




Burlington Syracuse

Columbus Harrisburg



St Louis



Detroit Cleveland

Cedar Rapids Salt Lake City





Portland OR


St. John’s

Quebec Fargo

New Orleans

Tallahassee Pensacola

San Antonio


Jacksonville Gainesville

Orlando Tampa Fort Myers

West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale

Miami Key West

San Juan Aguadilla

We are the best choice for connecting Europe to North America. You can travel from Dublin direct to ten US destinations, or to Canada, and benefit from up to 100 onward connections with our partner airlines. You can also fly from Shannon direct to Boston and New York JFK. With US Customs and Border Protection Pre-clearance at Dublin and Shannon airports, you will save time and avoid queues in the US. Arrive in the US before you depart Ireland.

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Aer Lingus European and North American Network Aer Lingus Regional routes (Operated by Stobart Air) Aer Lingus Regional and mainline routes Aer Lingus partner destinations (Operated by Flybe) Aer Lingus partner destinations (American Airlines, Air Canada, Jetblue, United Airlines and WestJet)

Aer Lingus fly direct to and from over 100 destinations across Ireland, the UK, Continental Europe, Canada and the US. Our vast network and partners will also connect you to dozens of other cities in North America. Visit for more information.

Inverness Aberdeen Glasgow




Leeds Bradford Doncaster Manchester

Isle of Man



Shannon Kerry




London (Gatwick)








London (Heathrow) Bristol


Hamburg Amsterdam

Brussels Prague

Frankfurt Jersey


Stuttgart Vienna





Nantes Geneva Lyon Bordeaux


Santiago de Compostela


Montpellier Perpignan

Venice Milan Verona (Malpensa) Milan (Linate) Bologna Pula Nice Pisa




Dubrovnik Rome




Alicante Murcia Malaga Faro

Tenerife Gran Canaria

Lanzarote Fuerteventura




Try our online route map You can view our destinations and book your flight directly from our route map. Perfect for viewing from your ipad, it is built using Google maps so no need to install any software, just browse and book!

Athens Catania


Our Middle East, Australasia and South African Route Network You can now book flights from Dublin to destinations in the Middle East, Australia and South Africa via London Heathrow and Abu Dhabi. Visit for more information.


London Heathrow



Abu Dhabi


Kuala Lumpur Singapore


Cape Town

Aer Lingus routes via Abu Dhabi (Operated by our codeshare partner Etihad Airways) Aer Lingus routes via London Heathrow (Operated by our codeshare partner British Airways)

144 |


Perth Sydney



Excellent track record representing: • • • • •

Professionals Executives Investors Intra-company transferees Multi-national managers

• • • •

Family-based petitions Interns and trainees Artists Outstanding individuals in athletics, business, entertainment and science

For client testimonials visit: @usvisaexpert

New York Office: T: 212-965-1148

Deirdre O’Brien, Esq.

Kilkenny Office: T: 056-7767994





Buying? Selling? Trading? Immediate Cash Payment • Full Range of Luxury Watches

We gaurantee the Best Value for Money Rolex • Cartier • Patek Phillippe • Breguet • Franck Muller Audemars • Breitling • IWC • Jaeger • Omega

Please phone or visit our shop

Specialist Service For Repairs & Restoration, Battery Replacement Watch Batteries Fitted on Premises Trade in accepted for New and Preowned Watches Diamond Jewellery, instore and made to order


Staying connected on board*

Choose how you access the internet on board. We have three options for you to select.


Aer Social

€6.95 $7.95

Mobile Network on board

With our onboard mobile network, AeroMobile, you can use your phone for text, email and internet browsing, just like you would on the ground**. Stay connected even as you cross the Atlantic.

1 Switch on

Switch on your mobile when it is safe to do so, keeping it on silent or vibrate mode. Ensure you switch off flight safe mode.

2 Aeromobile

€13.95 $15.95

Aer Max

€29.95 $32.95

Wi-Fi on board in six steps

On our A330 aircraft you can stay in touch with everything that matters, even when you’re in the air. Here’s how to connect your Wi-Fi enabled devices.

1 Switch on

Once the safety belt sign has been switched off, turn on your device and connect to the Telekom HotSpot Network. SSID: Aer_Lingus_WiFi

2 Connect

Wait for the AeroMobile network signal to appear. If your device does not connect automatically, manually select the AeroMobile network through network settings.

Launch or refresh the browser to connect to the Aer Lingus portal. You can browse for free along with some of our partners’ sites.

3 Welcome SMS

Click the ‘Buy Internet Access’ button and choose a plan.

Once connected you will receive a welcome SMS from AeroMobile. You may also receive a pricing message from your mobile operator. International roaming rates apply.

4 Connected

You can now use your phone for SMS, MMS, email and browsing the internet. ** Voice calls are disabled and are not permitted during flight. Remember to manage your settings to avoid automatic data download and roaming charges.

International roaming rates apply from your mobile phone operator 146 |

Aer Surf


3 Purchase Internet Access

4 Payment

Select your payment method which is processed via a secure connection. Credit card, roaming, iPass, PayPal or Deutsche Telekom accounts are accepted.

5 Username and Password

Enter a username and password. You need to remember these if you wish to change device.

6 Connected

You can now browse, email and surf the internet… enjoy! *A330 aircraft only.


Our 7oz* flame-grilled burgers are made with prime cuts of beef from Ireland. We use carefully select beef brisket and chuck steak to give you the very best flavour and succulence.







Hangover Burger

St. Stephen’s Green • Temple Bar Blanchardstown • Dundrum • Liffey Valley • Swords

with over 135 cafes around the world, there’s always something happening at the hard rock.


WELCOME TO YOUR WORLD-CLASS 4-STAR AIRLINE. In recognition of our consistent quality and excellent guest experience, Skytrax World Airline Awards has rated Aer Lingus 4-stars, making us the first and only Irish airline to receive such a prestigious rating. Smart flies 4-star. Smart flies Aer Lingus.



LATE OPENING FRIDAY & SATURDAY 51 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Ph: 0035316771155 Open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner


Supper club with live music every Friday night 1 Belmont Ave, D 4 Ph: 0035315510555




Help keep your skin fully moisturised this summer with our go-to products.


Help prevent dehydrated skin with this everyday cream that provides continuous moisture replenishment.


This perfect travel-sized companion ensures skin and lips are protected and soothed on the go.

EGYPTIAN MAGIC – ALL PURPOSE SKIN CREAM As well as a moisturiser this all-rounder skin cream helps heal scars and burns. Ideal for popping into suitcases.


Replenish tired and dull skin at all times with these instantly hydrating and moisturising favourites.


Help rescue skin from sun exposure and stress damage with this moisturiser that enriches the skin to maintain its hydro level.


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Irish pentathlete Natalya Coyle won gold at May’s Modern Pentathlon World Cup event. Here, she relays her Brazilian Olympics experience. ow would I describe my feelings as I crossed the finishing line in Brazil last August? Exhaustion! It had been a 12hour day and I gave it every last bit of energy I had. But I was also delighted with seventh place. Yes, I was close to a medal but I made personal bests across the day and there’s always next time. I started doing modern pentathlon through the local Pony Club when I was young. There I did something called tetrathlon – four of the five modern pentathlon sports – and at the start it was just for fun and I couldn’t even make the Meath first team. So I started training hard and rose through the ranks to win national titles. Then a friend introduced me to fencing to complete the five modern pentathlon sports, that also include swimming, show-jumping, pistol


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shooting and running. Fencing is probably the toughest to train for, as it is very technical. You can be physically fit but, if you aren’t switched on mentally, there’s no point being there. Each day can be completely different in modern pentathlon, as is the nature of the sport. Each week I’ll train about 20-25 hours with around four swims, four runs, three fences, four shoots, two gyms and a horse-riding session. I would also have regular physio and rehab work. I probably do three to four training sessions on any given day. I went to Brazil in early February 2016 to a training camp, and a world cup competition, to see what the venues were like. I headed back again a few days before the Olympics began, to the Irish holding camp in Uberlândia, almost 700 kilometres from Rio – it was incredible and let us get used to the temperature.

Game face – Coyle pounds the track in one of five sports she is expected to master.

We made sure to see our physio regularly and followed a detailed training plan. When you’re that close to a Games, the work is already done. It’s more about relaxing after doing some faster tuning work and getting ready for the big day. I like to talk to my team mates and coaches throughout the day, and try to switch off between events. Once an event is done I forget about it and move on. You can’t change the past so there’s no point dwelling on it. The modern pentathlon is run over one day at the Olympics. I’ll fence in the morning against the 35 other competitors for a one-hit bout. Then I will swim 200m freestyle. Then it’s on to the horse riding. We are ranked according to our current score 1-36 and drawn a horse to ride on – then given 20 minutes and five practice jumps before heading into a round of 1.20 metre-high show jumps. Finally we finish with the laser run. This is a 4x800 run with a shoot in-between each. Whoever crosses the line first wins. I’ve been extremely lucky throughout my career to have the help of so many experienced and knowledgeable people. Never underestimate the advice of training partners and even talking through things with a friend helps. Sometimes someone who might know nothing about sport can give you a good insight. The best memory I have of the Brazil Olympics was actually getting the train afterwards with my friends and family I hadn’t seen in so long and sitting in Copacabana eating dinner with them. I had the best supporters over in Rio. Lots of my friends and family flew in and were cheering me on the whole way. It was so special to have them there with me. The Irish team were also great as everyone can relate to what you’re doing. In sport you need to love what you do as it can be a lonely road – if you’re not passionate, it can be incredibly tough.


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Cara July 2017  
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