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CARA Magazine July 2014

July 2014

Cillian Murphy Irish artists Jack Reynor Aran Islands


New York


Tenerife Nice Glamping Ghent

Gaeltacht force


Explore the Aran Islands


Into the boroughs

New York’s hippest ’hoods

Nice by name …

The French Riviera

Carry on glamping



Swanky campsites


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Contents JULY 2014


94 Coasting along

Potrait of an artist

Check in 04 ARRIVALS We welcome blow-ins and natives at Dublin’s T2 07

CHECK IN Our edit of where to go, what to see and do this July


ON MY TRAVELS Transformers actor Jack Reynor’s greatest adventures

20 MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK Stylist Celestine Cooney’s destination hit list 22 SMART TRAVELLER Twitter’s Barry Collins on doing business in Barcelona 24 CULTURE CITY Galway Arts Festival is where it’s at 26 TAKE A HIKE Ruth Anna Coss’s walking survival kit 28 HORSES FOR COURSES Richard Forristal gallops into race season 30 WEEKENDER David Robbins learns to swim at Park Hotel Kenmare PASSING FANCIES New pop-ups on the block by Aoife Carrigy

MURPHY’S LORE Tony Clayton-Lea up close and personal with Cillian Murphy

34 SHELF LIFE Cool guides and David Dickson’s secret Dublin intrigue Bridget Hourican

42 IN THE FRAME Gemma Tipton profiles Irish artists



54 TIME TRAVEL Manchán Magan goes back to the future on the Aran Islands 68 IN THE ‘HOOD Tony ClaytonLea explores New York’s, ‘burbs 80 WHALE OF A TIME Pól Ó Conghaile finds whales, wine and waterparks in Tenerife


Irish odyssey



94 J’ADORE D’AZUR Lucy White’s girls getaway to Nice 106 7 FANCY CAMPS The poshest campsites by Fran Power 113 SWELL SEEKERS Leslie Ann Horgan sticks her oar into SUP

Coffee breaks

Regulars 116 48 HOURS IN GHENT Niamh Wade uncovers a Belgian beauty 119 AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO STOCKHOLM Where to go local, by Jane Ruffino 122 SPOTLIGHT Fran Power feasts her way across Rioja 125 AER LINGUS INFLIGHT The latest films, tunes and aviation news 152 TRIP OF A LIFETIME Teenager Emily Ray swaps Cork for San Francisco

Contributors EDITORIAL Editor Frances Power Deputy Editor Lucy White Assistant Editor Niamh Wade Contributors Ruth Anna Coss, Bridget Hourican, Lisa Hughes, David Robbins

Manchán Magan has written books on his travels in Africa, India and South America, and has made travel documentaries for TG4 and the Travel Channel. Islands are a favourite: whether th tunnel-dwelling Yami people of Lanyu Island, the Ta Taiwan, or the chakra-balancing aesthetes of Sa Spring Island, BC. “The Aran Islands [see Salt page 54] were a revelation: I expected stag parties and racketeering, and found perhaps a first fir glimpse of a sustainable Ireland.” He lives in his self-built hovel in his self-planted oak forest in the middle of Ireland.

Editorial Director Laura George ART Art Director Clare Meredith Creative Director Bill O’Sullivan

BOARD OF DIRECTORS Chairman Ann Reihill Directors Patrick Dillon Malone, Laura George, Richard Power, Robert Power, Gina Traynor PRINTING Boylan Print Group ORIGINATION Typeform

travel writer, editor and blogger ( Having spent over a dozen years writing about Irish food, and working in Irish restaurants, she is excited by the possibilities currently being explored in pop-up restaurants, supper clubs and creative food projects across Ireland that she writes about on page 32 of Cara. “The recession seems to have given the scene a welcome injection of chutzpah. When everything is stripped right back it makes you question why you’re doing what you’re doing, and the answer for many seems to be simple: for the love of it.”

Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Image Publications, Unit 3, Block 3 Harbour Square, Crofton Road, Dun Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland, +353 (0)1 280 8415; advertising sales, +353 (0)1 271 9625; fax +353 (0)1 280 8309;, email Company registration number 56663

Dividing her time between Dublin and West Cork, Gemma Tipton loves art and horses in equal measure. “It was great gr fun to look ahead to all the brilliant ex exhibitions coming up in Ireland when I was researching this article,” she says, of writing wri about artists for Cara this month, se page 42. “Things used to go quiet over see th summer, but not any more it seems.” the Sh be spending the summer enjoying She’ll th festivals that take place around Ireland: the Ga Galway, Kilkenny, Kinsale; and riding her hor Bosco. horse

© Image Publications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of Aer Lingus or IMAGE Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus and IMAGE Publications Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from IMAGE Publications Ltd.

Cara magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland. IMAGE Publications Ltd is a member of the Press Council of Ireland and supports the Office of the Press Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit or IMAGE Publications Ltd –



ADMINISTRATION Events & Communications Manager Maeve Barry, +353 (0)1 271 9643, Acting Financial Controller Barbara O’Reilly Credit Controller Lisa Dickenson

Aoife Carrigy is a freelance food, wine and


ADVERTISING Commercial Director Clodagh Edwards +353 (0)1 271 9634, Advertising Director Noëlle O’Reilly +353 (0)1 271 9621, Advertising Executive Corinné Vaughan +353 (0)1 271 9622, Advertising Copy Contact Derek Skehan +353 (0)1 855 3855,

July 2014




Gaeltacht force

Explore the Aran Islands

Into the boroughs

New York’s hippest ’hoods

Nice by name …

The French Riviera

Carry on glamping



Swanky campsites


Actor Cillian Murphy photographed at Islington Mill, Manchester, by Richard Gilligan, assisted by Al Higgins.

Welcome to our new issue! We are all take yours. Feel free to ay for this magazine aw ey. your onward journ e your We would also lov l feedback and trave r photos via Twitte . @CARAMagazine

IRELAND’S HOME TO THE VERY BEST IRISH AND INTERNATIONAL BRANDS Acne ALAÏA ALexAnder McQueen ArMAni coLLezioni BALenciAgA BurBerry cAnALi cArVen céLine christiAn LouBoutin doLce & gABBAnA dries VAn noten erdeM erMenegiLdo zegnA giVenchy gucci heLMut LAng herMès J BrAnd JiMMy choo Jo MALone JW Anderson Kenzo Louis Vuitton Louise Kennedy MAc MichAeL Kors 3.1 PhiLLiP LiM ProenzA schouLer roLAnd Mouret sAint LAurent steLLA MccArtney tiffAny & co. toM ford VALentino VictoriA BecKhAM WAterford crystAL


WHO? From left, Lily and mum Sinéad Hingston FLYING IN FROM ... London Gatwick HERE FOR ... Home to Dublin after visiting friends in London.

WHO? From left, Leonie Schmidt and Isabelle Jacobs FLYING IN FROM ... Düsseldorf HERE FOR ... Four days of fun in Dublin.

WHO? From left left, mum and daughter Carlee and Jill Taylor FLYING IN FROM ... Atlanta, USA HERE FOR ... Apart from a holiday, Carlee hopes to meet One Direction’s Niall Horan while Jill craves the pub experience.


Family, Fa friends and fun inspired these passengers to fly. Cara magazine was at Dublin Airport’s T2 to meet them.

WHO? Fr From left left, An Anne Smith and her daughter Nicola Dowling FLYING IN FROM ... London Gatwick HERE FOR ... Anne has packed her rubber gloves – she’s helping Nicola to move house.


WHO? Seamus and Kay Murphy FLYING IN FROM ... Orlando HERE FOR ... Just back from visiting their son, Paul, in Tampa, Florida.

WHO? Sandra Saer FLYING IN FROM ... London Gatwick HERE FOR ... A business meeting to discuss publishing her children’s books.


JULY 2014

WHO? Roberta Petit and Jimi McDonnell FLYING IN FROM ... Phuket HERE FOR ... This travelling duo return to Galway after two months abroad. Just in time for Jimi’s brother’s wedding.

WHO? John Carroll FLYING IN FROM ... London Heathrow HERE FOR ... Homeward bound after running the Jameson Empire Awards in London. John can’t wait to see his one-year-old son.

“It wasn’t the screaming that put our customers off. It was the hair...”

...which was a little surprising, our customers having been a strikingly fashionable lot for 170 odd years. When Beatlemania hit Dublin, the four gentlemen concerned made their only appearance in Ireland in a cinema that is now part of the Arnotts building. To say that you could probably have heard the screaming in the street at cruising altitude is only a slight exaggeration. Then, in the following weeks and months, we started seeing women bringing their men in for a little wardrobe overhaul. Tighter trousers. Sharper shoes. Shorter jackets. Skinny ties. But the hair remained more Dublin than Liverpool. Ours not to reason why. Ours simply to offer whatever’s next, since 1843.

Photo courtesy of Independent Newspapers


H E N R Y S T.






W W W. A R N O T T S . I E

BLARNEY CASTLE & GARDENS Renowned for bestowing the gift of eloquence

See and feel Irelands heritage, built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains. Spend the day exploring the extensive grounds and gardens.

Open all year round 5 miles from Cork Open Monday- Sunday 9-6 ■

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Find out what’s on, where and when in July

Shore thing


Ireland’s largest international sailing regatta, Cork Week, returns this July 5-11. Held every two years, the event this time around boasts approximately 400 boats, each one competing across five courses: the One-Design, Olympic, Slalom, Trapezoid and Windward/Leeward. The Harbour Race is the event’s centrepiece, but there’s plenty of landlubbing action to be had in the tented village, where shops, restaurants, bars and live music crank up the craic.

Check in Compiled by Lucy White, Niamh Wade, Michelle O’Brien, Sharon McGowan and Ruth Anna Coss


4 cool hotel pools

Where to make a splash this summer …




La Sirenuse, Positano

This family-run palazzo hotel, some 60 kilometres from Naples airport, is a real charmer, not least its outdoor pool fringed with lemon trees, frangipani and bougainvillea. The Champagne and Oyster Bar, just a Pucci scarf’s throw away, on another terrace, ain’t bad either ... Honeymoon central. Rooms from €550 per night. +39 089 875 066;

Le Bristol, Paris

Located on the venerable Rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré, this is a grand old dame – and her sixth-floor pool resembles a beautiful, old, luxury cruise liner, with solid-teak window frames. Running alongside is an olive-and-pine-tree-lined sun deck with lovely panoramas of Montmartre. Rooms from €775 per night. +331 5343 4300;

Room Mate Grace, New York

Kilronan Castle, Co Roscommon

A swim-up bar in a pool that’s visible to the lobby sounds more South Beach than Times Square. But that’s what goes down at Room Mate Grace, where latenight pool parties (including steam room and sauna) are open to the public as well as to guests. Rooms from $146 per night. +1 212 354 2323;

Castles often have moats. But a swimming pool? That’s pretty cool. And, appropriately for a country pile in Ballyfarnon that dates back to the 18th century, Kilronan’s indoor pool is rather grand, with mosaic-tiled pillars. There is also a thermal suite and vitality pools. Rooms from €149 per night. 071 961 8000;


5 suncare lovelies ... 1



Grand designs in Berlin We’re sending the luck of the Irish to designer Maria Lola Roche, above left, when she represents Ireland at Mercedes-Benz Berlin Fashion Week, July 8-11 ( The former Griffith College student is one of five finalists shortlisted for the Designer for Tomorrow award ( by none other than its patron Tommy Hilfiger and stylist/author Bay Garrett, fighting off fellow talent from the UK, Italy, Germany and Bulgaria. Held twice a year, this Berlin Fashion Week instalment will make its debut at the Erika-HeßEisstadion in Mitte, where a plethora of S/S2015 catwalk and trade shows will strut across its highways, byways and runways.


JULY 2014

4 5

1 Moisture Surge CC Cream Compact SPF 25 by Clinique, €36 at Arnotts 2 Capital Soleil After Sun Milk by Vichy, €17.95 at selected pharmacies 3 Sun Care Cream High Protection 30+ by Clarins, €25.50 at Brown Thomas 4 Powerful Wrinkle Reducing Cream SPF 30 by Kiehl’s, €49 at Kiehl’s, 35 Wicklow St, Dublin 2 5 Anthelios XL SPF 50+ Compact Cream by La Roche Posay, €21 at selected pharmacies



Blarney Woollen Mills, Blarney, Co. Cork, Ireland Blarney Woollen Mills,Bunratty, Co. Clare, Ireland Blarney Woollen Mills, Dove Hill, Carrick on Suir, Co. Tipperary, Ireland SHOP ONLINE AT WWW.BLARNEY.COM

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Events extravaganza School’s out for summer – time for holiday fun. If you’re in France, the Medieval Festival of the Grand Fauconnier (July 13-14; will transport all ages back to the Middle Ages with falconry, fancy dress, music, taverns, calligraphy and blacksmithery animating the city of Cordes sur Ciel, some 80 kilometres from Toulouse. In the UK, Bristol Harbour Festival (July 18-20; jams its way across seven venues. From acoustic guitar sessions to daredevil acrobats, left, this picturesque waterside event has it all. Entry is free but for a few bob check out the Wallace and Gromit – From the Drawing Board exhibition in the M Shed. The same weekend in Rhode Island, Massachusetts, the South County Balloon Festival, below, ( lifts off. Choose from 14 hot-air balloon rides, see nine-metre kites, fireworks, remote-control planes and a carnival, plus, also on site, are the Rhode Island State BBQ Championships. Einstein your hero? Expect exploding science shows, trails, interactive events throughout the night, and picnics under the stars at Dublin’s Festival of Curiosity (July 24-27; And in Belfast there’s a mystery to solve – the musical Scooby Doo – The Mystery of the Pyramid (July 3-6; at the Grand Opera House. While in north Co Wicklow, all eyes will be on the sky for Bray Air Display, Ireland’s largest air show (July 20; Aerobatic treats include the Triggs Pitts Team bi-planes and The Mig 15, while Aer Lingus will be represented by the A321. And safely on the ground are artisan food and craft stalls.

and ready – two days of city sights MAKING WAVES Sea legs at the ed pric Dublin Land and Sea ticket, coastal delights await with the ed tour with Dublin Bay Cruises €30. Hop on and off this combin om attractions. dublinbaycruises.c and Dublin Bus for all the top


Fever pitch You can run but you Yo can’t hide, even while ca you’re on holiday – yo World Wo Cup fever is here. her For memorable matches ma in Manchester, bag ba a seat at ITV Fever Fe Pitch ( worldcup/feverpitch). This Brazilian-style beach soccer Brazilian-s stadium boasts a 40sqm screen, samba fun and a High Tempo Zone in which to practise your ball skills, above. In Paris, a festive barge Kia Cabana on the Port des Champs-Élysées bursts with Brazilian food, fashion, capoeria, sand, deckchairs and, of course, football screenings. On the emotional rollercoaster in Germany? Join thousands at the Berlin Fan Mile ( at Brandenburg Gate for seven giant screens and refreshment stands galore. If you’re Chicago based, butcher-cum-bar The Chop Shop ( is home to a nine-metre screen and proceeds from their signature snack, the Chicago Fire Sausage, benefit the Chicago Fire Foundation.

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A Modernist masterpiece A long time ago, in a country far, far away … Paramount Studios edited the sci-fi movie Metropolis for US audiences against the wishes of its German director, Fritz Lang. Nearly 80 years later, the original, dusty reels were discovered in a small museum in Buenos Aires. The director’s cut has been painstakingly reconstructed and restored, and will be screened at Dublin’s National Concert Hall on July 17 with Dublin band 3epkano providing live musical accompaniment with a contemporary score. No cinephile can deny the impact Metropolis has had on sci-fi film, its rampaging robot and quintessentially Futuristic production design are both of their time and timeless.


Photographed at La Roca Village. A member of the Chic Outlet Shopping ® Collection of Villages *on the recommended retail price © Kildare Village 2014

LIKE SHOPPING. BUT BETTER. The finest designer boutiques. All in one place. With up to 60% * off. Visit the CAST exhibition celebrating Irish bronze sculpture












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Powerhouse performances


Dublin Castle becomes a stage this July 11-12 for an exhibition of live site-specific performances by seven national and international artists, among them Pauline Cummins in The Spy at the Gate, left. Entitled These Immovable Walls: Performing Power at Dublin Castle, each piece is performed in different, architecturally diverse spaces within the castle, and has the theme of power. For more info, visit

A FINE VINTAGE Window shopping may prove impossible at Cross Gallery on Dublin’s Francis Street, such are the gems in its debut Cross Collection exhibit from July 5 to August 20. It’s a delicious cross-section of vintage furniture and homewares, highlights of which include an authentic 5-CHM Soviet submarine alarm clock, left, and teak rocking chairs by Ole Wanscher. DAYTRIPPER


Picnic perfect

Pop-ups and popcorn

2 1 3 1


5 6 1 Vintage Ivy Flask, £12.95 at 2 Hamo Beach Chair by Ikea, €12 at 3 Citronella Scented Candle, £8.90 at 4 Bistro Picnic Basket for 4 by Avoca, €99.95 at 5 Lothbury Picnic Blanket by Jack Wills, €30 at jackwills. com 6 Birdsong Enamel Set, €32.95 at

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Outdoor film screenings are back in vogue after a rather dismal June (well, in Ireland at least). Fingers crossed the heavens won’t open over Dublin and Limerick’s Happenings park screenings this month, as their al fresco movies are weather permitting and announced 36 hours’ ahead of show time (, admission €5). We’re banking on dry, balmy nights in London too for Tee’s and Cee’s We Love the 90s Film Fest at Portobello Pop-up Cinema ( Split over two weekends from July 25 and August 1 are Boyz n the Hood, Pulp Fiction, Set it Off, Friday, Goodfellas and – big white meringues ahoy – Muriel’s Wedding (admission £5.50). Also on a nostalgia trip is Riverside Park Conservancy’s free Pier 1 Picture House programme in New York, where Clueless, Back to the Future, The Princess Bride and The Outsiders await film buffs (

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Nature’s way Restaurateur Kevin Mulvany owns Staple Foods in Dublin’s Temple Bar, a hip salad, smoothie and sambo bar that also has its own, cold-pressed Dr Juice drinks line ( Here he picks his favourite eat-well spots ...

BERLIN Sauvage Berlin This place has a menu that’s 100 per cent based on the paleo diet, but does it in a really creative and cool way. It serves haute-cuisine-style food, showcasing how imaginative healthy food can be. It’s also completely gluten free. Ask for Vegan curry with coconut topping.

BARCELONA Za’atar Vegetariano Opened since August 2013, this eco-friendly vegetarian restaurant features two floors of seating and offers a daily menu, in addition to fresh juices and other vegetarian and vegan foods. Great spot for a healthy light lunch. It’s also very reasonably priced. Ask for Paella quinoa and seitan.

LONDON 222 Veggie Vegan This place does a buffet lunch and à la carte dinner, using only organic ingredients and in a really hip setting. It will cater to anyone’s particular tastes and the service is next to none. Ask for 222 Burger – a mix of organic tofu and minced veg with a delicious homemade spicy ketchup.

NEW YORK Dirt Candy There’s a regular menu in this paleo friendly place in the East Village but what’s great is that everything has a vegan alternative that is equally as delicious as its meat counterpart. Ideal for parties with mixed dietary requirements – book in advance. Ask for Corn and grits with a tempura poached egg.

DUBLIN Yogism This is a really cool, self-serve frozen yogurt bar located in the George’s Street Arcade, Dublin 2, where the yogurt is delicious and low in fat. It does a really good breakfast club too. And if you do want to stick around, there are benches to linger on. Ask for Lemon and lime “fro-yo” with blueberries and hazelnut.


Giddy heights … Beer gardens are brilliant but nothing beats supping a cocktail from up high in an urban hotel. New York, of course, has one of the best skylines, so pull up a distressed pew at Gallow Green in Chelsea’s faux McKittrick Hotel (really a renovated warehouse) – home of Punchdrunk Love’s immersive theatre production Sleep No More ( Rocking an overgrown secret garden vibe, the al fresco bar boasts weathered furniture, and even an abandoned train carriage. Similarly kooky – and also in New York – is Sonny’s Soda Shoppe at Mondrian Soho Hotel, New York (morganshotelgroup. com), whose indoor/outdoor penthouse has been transformed into an Italian 1950s beach club. A “Gelato Float” or a frozen limoncello, anyone? And the name of the panoramic Monkey Bar in Berlin’s 25Hour Hotel Bikini (, left, is no accident – it peeps into Berlin Zoo.

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JULY 2014

APPETITE FOR CONSUMPTION Flex those elasticated waistbands – the world’s biggest food festival returns July 9-13. This year’s Taste of Chicago – or, colloquially, “The Taste” – is expected to receive around three million visitors to Grant Park which, as well as hosting the gamut of food stalls, pop-up restaurants, demos and food trucks, includes ticketed concerts by Janelle Monae, Emmylou Harris and Aloe Blacc.

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JULY 2014

Wish you were here Irish Iri born, Alex Franciosi, left, grew up in Italy but now lives live in Dublin and took this thi photo on a trip to the Do Dolomites, Italy. He says of hi photograph: “We came his ac across these inquisitive horses whilst hiking last summer. Starting at the village of Siusi allo Sciliar, just two hours north of Verona airport, we made our way to the Sassopiatto peak visible in the picture. As we stopped to enjoy a break and take some pictures, this friendly horse took a sudden interest in our food. I managed to catch one last shot before being gently harassed for a share of my crisps! With numerous routes for walkers of all abilities, authentic rifugi serving typical food, and breathtaking scenery, the Dolomites are a must-see for nature lovers.”

Have you a stunning photograph of your trip to an Aer Lingus destination to share? Send it to us at and we’ll publish our favourite shot in the August issue. The technicals Photographs must be a 300-dpi high resolution file and accompanied by a portrait of yourself and 100 words about the story behind the shot. The editor’s decision is final.

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On my travels

Dublin is actor Jack Reynor’s destination of choice, as he explains to Lucy White.


Jack Reynor, 22, was born in Colorado and raised in Valleymount, Co Wicklow, from the age of two. His interest in acting was piqued while studying at Dublin’s Belvedere College SJ, where he began to tread the boards before playing the eponymous lead in Lenny Abrahamson’s critically acclaimed What Richard Did (2011). In his latest film, Transformers 4: Age of Extinction, Reynor stars opposite Mark Wahlberg, Stanley Tucci and Nicola Peltz, while Macbeth, starring Michael Fassbender and Marion Cotillard is in post-production.

y childhood holidays consisted of … going over to the west with my mother and renting little thatched cottages. I have the best memories of standing on the Cliffs of Moher and driving around Doolin and Lahinch. The most exotic location I ever filmed in was … Hong Kong. It was incredible, unlike anywhere I’ve ever been. The people were incredibly gracious, and the city has such a rich and diverse culture. I’d love to spend a few months there sometime. The most challenging location I ever filmed in was … again, Hong Kong. We were shooting Transformers and couldn’t close down any roads, which meant that literally hundreds of people were on the street watching us and taking videos with their


cameras. In one sense that’s lovely, because so many people are showing an interest, but as I’m sure you can imagine, it can be a little distracting …! If I could fly anywhere tomorrow, it’d be to … Dublin. I don’t get nearly enough time at home anymore. Free Aer Lingus flights please? The best thing about travelling for work is … having the opportunity to explore so many great places and different cultures. I feel incredibly lucky to be able to do this at such a young age. The worst thing? Being away from family and friends for extended periods. My most memorable holiday was … probably a trip I took to Salzburg when I was about 15. What a beautiful place. It was snowing so the whole city looked really amazing.

The last time I got star-struck was while ... working on Macbeth earlier this year and met Marion Cotillard for the first time. It took me about 20 minutes to pluck up the courage to go over and say hello. She's absolutely extraordinary, and I’ve been following her career since I watched Taxi when I was about eleven. The place that most exceeded my expectations was ... Dallas, Texas. I honestly thought I wouldn’t enjoy it there but I had the most incredible time. I threw out the first pitch for the Texas Rangers who had made a custom jersey with my name on the back of it. I ended up sitting in the owners’ seats and had six signed game balls by the end. The craziest hotel I ever stayed on was ... definitely the Yotel in New York City. The rooms

3 film festivals ...


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JULY 2014

The world’s most romantic city is upping its game. Paris Cinéma Le Festival features classic films shown on new or restored prints, left, so cosy up and enjoy. Vote for your favourite flick or pop to Berges de Seine for nightly post-film entertainment, including karaoke. July 5–12;


Wish to brush shoulders with the stars, or brush up on your editing skills? Then nab a ticket for the 26th Galway Film Fleadh. Don’t tear all your hair out deciding which film, masterclass, debate, public interview or seminar to go to, they’ll all impress. July 8–13;

are all lined with these purple strip lights, and all the furniture fits together like Tetris. It’s like stepping on to the set of Blade Runner. A fun place to stay. How does New York compare with LA for work? LA is really easy for me. The weather certainly helps, and I have a great group of friends over there, many of them Irish. It always feels a little far away from home obviously but I definitely feel as though I can sit back and relax a bit there. NYC is great too of course, and I love it for just as many reasons, but it can be a bit manic at times. I think I’d have a hard time living in New York permanently but for a visit, or even a few months, I love the place. Transformers 4 is released in Ireland and the UK on July 5.


You may require a popcorn detox after the Rhode Island International Film Festival – 200 or so movies will be screened. There is tons of new cinematic talent to be seen in various locations, and a sophisticated film-loving audience to hang out with. August 5–10;

Unrivalled action Unbeatable atmosphere Unmatched history Unforgettable magic

This summer don’t miss out on all the GAA action with matches every weekend.

Tickets on sale now at and selected SuperValu & Centra stores.


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My travel notebook tr

Stylist CELESTINE COONEY is fashion director of Twin magazine and also works as a freelance editor for various publications including the New York Times T-Magazine and Dazed & Confused. Find her at and Instagram @celestinecooney. By Nancy Rockett and Ruth Anna Coss.


Preen by Thornton Bregazzi Phillipa Sunglasses, €270 at

FAVOURITE WEEKEND BREAK? “Cornwall, England. There’s a little café in Padstow called Cherry Trees (West Quay, +44 184 153 2934 that does amazing cakes. And when we cook in, I buy meat and 2934) vege vegetables from Rick Stein’s farm shop in Trevone Bay. I stay in my frie friend’s cottage but, if you need a hotel, try The Nare (Carne Beach, Very Veryan-in-Roseland, Cornwall, +44 187 250 1111;”

Raspberry Gingham Bikini, £30 at Topshop, St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2

J Brand Tribute Cut-Off Stretch tch Den Denim Shorts, €240 at

Oversized Buckle Sandals by Givenchy, €880 at Brown Thomas, Grafton Street, Dublin 2

BEST HOTEL IN THE WORLD? “I stay with my friends in New York, so Claireban’s apartment in Duffy and Lucy’s brownstone in Bed-Stuy (Bedford-Stuyvesant) in Brooklyn. But in Manhattan, it has to be the Ace Hotel (20 West 29th Street, +1 212 679 2222;”

Celestine’s carry-on essentials ... 1 MDR-1RNC Prestige Noise Cancelling Headphones by Sony, €549, 2 Preen by Thornton Bregazzi Tessa Backless Wool Sweater, €627, 3 Camellia Nut Facial Hydrating Cream by Aesop, £33, 4 Lhasa Cashmere Socks by Falke, £19.13, 5 Ulysse Agenda Cover by Hermès, €220 at Brown Thomas

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MOST FASHION FORWARD PLACE? “London. I think it’s creatively brave, pioneered by people like The Rolling Stones, Sex Pistols, left, Vivienne Westwood, the YBAs [Young British Artists].”


BEST PLACE FOR SHOPPING? “The he open antiques ues market in the town wn square, on the Cours Saleya, in Nice, France. My best find there so far was a really ly beautiful, antique,, yellow gold and real shark tooth pendant.”





Embellished Coated Mesh Dress by Simone Dr Si Rocha, $2,105 at

FAVOURITE CORNISH EATERY? “Rick Stein’s Seafood Restaurant (Riverside, Padstow) is excellent, as is his more low-key pub The Cornish Arms, left (Churchtown, St Merryn, Padstow, both +44 184 153 2700 and”



Visit the home of a True Irish Spirit and immerse yourself in its history, craftsmanship and flavours. • Open 7 days a week, all year round • Guided tours • Tutored tasting • Gift Shop • Restaurant GLASSES UP TO DRINKING RESPONSIBLY

Bury Quay, Tullamore, Co. Offaly, Ireland Tel: +353 (0) 57 93 25015 Email: Visit

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Smart Traveller|

Lisa Hughes gets the lowdown on Barcelona, and spotlights the best business hotels in Orlando.




As director of Twitter Europe, Middle East and Africa, Barry Collins works with SMEs to help them get the most out of Tweeting. He travels at least once a month, and his favourite city is Barcelona.

perfect location for formal or informal meetings. Tipping … It is generally not expected, but tips of 10 per cent in restaurants are always appreciated. Technology … I no longer find it necessary to tell colleagues or a customer that I'm travelling; I am as connected on the road as I love staying at the W I am back in the office. It’s Barcelona (Plaça de la Rosa incredible how productive del Vents, +34 932 952 800; you can be with just your It’s a smartphone and a good data short distance from the city connection. I use Skype centre but it’s right on the extensively, but you still can’t beachfront, so well worth it. beat face-to-face meetings. The views from the rooms Visiting Barcelona for are amazing and watching the first time … Mind your the sunset from the bar on the 26th floor is hard to beat. belongings all the time, the pickpockets are artists. It has For meetings the Mandarin not happened to me so far Oriental (38-40 Passeig but I have had my debit card de Gràcia, +34 931 518 888; skimmed there. is a On your downtime … A trip to La Boqueria (9 (91 Rambla; +34 933 ”I can’t travel without … My Slingbox (€208.89 18 182 584; at, a little device that allows me to connect to fo food market is a must. my cable TV box at home. This means I can see lots of A bar called Pinoxo rugby, football and hurling games from the comfort ne near the entrance is of my hotel room. I don’t miss trying to find an Irish gr great for a quick bite. bar that’s open at 6am in the morning and Ha Have a look at what showing big games!” th the locals are eating and follow suit.”

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THE FLORIDA HOTEL AND CONFERENCE CENTER This sunny spot is a business travel favourite, thanks to a meeting and conference centre sprawling across two floors (oh, and a swimming pool, in the event of any downtime). As well as being close to Downtown Orlando, the hotel boasts a new 24-hour business centre with 16 Apple computer work stations, two small office spaces, mobile phonecharging stations, printers and more. (1500 Sand Lake Road, +1 407 859 1500; GRAND BOHEMIAN HOTEL ORLANDO Located in the business and arts district of the city, the Grand Bohemian hotel straddles both worlds. Just 13 miles from the airport, the AAA four-diamond hotel offers a spacious, in-room work area, Wi-Fi, computer rental, business centre and secretarial services. Go for a post-work pick-me-up at the award-winning Boheme Restaurant, visit the in-hotel art gallery, or unwind at the full-service Poseidon Spa. (325 South Orange Avenue, +1 407 313 9000; EMBASSY SUITES ORLANDO DOWNTOWN For your Sunshine State home from home, look no further. Start your day with a cooked-to-order breakfast before heading down to the BusinessLink centre that's equipped with fax, printer, high-speed internet and more. Sample fresh seafood at Café Eola and, best of all, every room is a two-room suite. (191 East Pine Street, +1 407 841 1000;




“Barcelona is great for business because … its central location means it’s a relatively short commute from most European cities. The city is vibrant and exciting, easily accessible and simple to navigate. There is a wide range of reasonably priced hotels and an abundance of entertainment options, so you’ll never be bored. Business lunch ... There are endless choices when it comes to food in Barcelona. I love to have tapas when I’m there. Tapes 24 (269 Carrer de la Diputació, +34 934 880 977; is a popular tapas bar in the city centre. It’s always busy but the food is worth queuing for. Try the McFoie Burger! Also La Pepita (343 Carrer de Còrsega, +34 932 384 893; has a great atmosphere but don’t forget to book in advance. Getting around … Taxis are plentiful, and probably the best way to get around if visiting on business, but the Metro Barcelona is a cheap alternative that’s clean and easy to navigate. Best business hotel …

Liam Quirke

Managing Partner

Coast to coast A firm US presence Matheson is Ireland’s largest law firm. We are also the largest Irish law firm in the US. International companies and financial institutions are the primary focus of our firm. We were the first European law firm to open an office in Silicon Valley and are proud to represent the majority of the Fortune 100 companies, 7 of the top 10 global technology brands and more than half of the world’s 50 largest banks.

Financial Times 2012-2013 Matheson is the only Irish law firm commended by the Financial Times for innovation in corporate law, finance law and corporate strategy. Irish Tax Firm of the Year 2013 International Tax Review

Contact Liam Quirke, Managing Partner at, John Ryan, Head of Matheson’s US Offices at or your usual contact at Matheson.

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Culture city alway is a really vibrant city with brilliant restaurants, bars, nightlife, and wonderful people and, of course, a terrific cultural scene. Visitors will enjoy a creative collision of theatre, art, music, opera, talks and debate from artists from all over the world.” Artistic director Paul Fahy really doesn’t need to sell this year’s Galway International Arts Festival (GIAF). Its roll call of plucky pioneers, emerging artists and household-names speaks for itself: Cillian Murphy, Stephen Rea and Mikel Murfi in the world première of Enda Walsh’s sold-out Ballyturk (July 10-27, Black Box Theatre; see interview with Murphy on page 36); John “Frasier’s Dad” Mahoney in Chapatti, a co-production with Chicago’s Northlight Theatre (July 15-27, Town Hall Theatre); one-woman comedy show High Heels in Low Places by Ireland’s marriage equality poster girl, Panti (July 22-23, Radisson Live Lounge); the as Gaeilge adaptation of Joseph O’Connor’s Star of the Sea (July 10-19, An Taibhdhearc), and Brooklyn hipsters The National kicking up an anthemic storm in the Festival Big Top (July 16). Despite arts budgets having been slashed across the land since the downturn, the festival team has


played a blinder this year. Opera fanciers have a lot to get excited about in Luigi Rossi’s tragicomedy Orfeo, the tale of doomed lovers Orpheus and Euridice played out against the evocative backdrop of St Nicholas’ Church (July 23-24). In fact, GIAF’s music programme couldn’t be more diverse, from headliners The Waterboys (July 20) and Imelda May (July 18) to, also in the Festival Big Top, Kormac’s Big Band (July 26) and husband-andwife duo Maria Doyle Kennedy and Kieran Kennedy (July 20, Mick Lally Theatre). And New Orleans rhythms are represented not only by Louisiana’s Hot 8 Brass Band (July 14) but also Ireland’s own Booka Brass Band (July 19, both Roisin Dubh). Moreover, “visual arts are at the core of the festival,” says Fahy, of the purpose-built pop-up gallery in which are “two major new exhibitions from Irish artists John Kindness and Patrick O’Reilly, a superb ‘sound installation’ The Forty Part Motet from Canada’s Janet Cardiff, and two shows featuring the great pop artist Eduardo Paolozzi.” Cara will also be ogling Liam O’Callaghan’s multimedia show If and then … (again) (July 14-27, Galway Arts Centre) – see him profiled on page 44. There is also a series of talks,

3 best arts fests ...


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HAPPY DAYS: INTERNATIONAL BECKETT FESTIVAL Co Fermanagh Three years in, this Enniskillen festival is in rude health. Highlights include talks by Fiona Shaw and Blake Morrison, Theatre NoNo’s production of En Attendant Godot, left, and a sound installation in the Marble Arch Caves. July 31 to August 10.



This year’s Galway International Arts Festival boasts a galaxy of stars, discovers Lucy White.

John Mahoney and Penny Slusher star in the European premiere of Chapatti, which wowed audiences in Chicago this spring.

JULIDANS Amsterdam, Netherlands The crème de la crème of international contemporary dance will gracefully descend on the Dutch capital this month for this annual festival. Showcasing work by both emerging and established artists, the event is a masterclass in cutting-edge choreography. July 1-12, various locations.

including one on site-specific art panelled by Louise Lowe (Anu Productions), Denis Conway (Ouroboros Theatre Company) and Kurt Perschke (RedBall Galway – “an enormous outdoor installation that will pop up in various locations in the city”), and another by the Dublin-based graphic designer Annie Atkins, who worked magic on Wes Anderson’s Grand Budapest Hotel (both July 20 at NUI’s Aula Maxima). “We also have a huge free outdoor programme of European acrobatic circus and spectacles suitable for all of the family,” says Fahy. “And we’ve a beautiful new visual show, Bláth, from Galway company Branar (July 18-24, Bank of Ireland Theatre).” Galway International Arts Festival, July 14-27;


BOSTON POPS FIREWORKS SPECTACULAR Boston, US Held every Independence Day, this music and pyrotechnics jamboree attracts some half a million gaspers to the Charles River’s Esplanade. The event climaxes with Tchaikovsky’s rousing 1812 Overture, accompanied by real cannon fire. July 4.

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Horses for courses Summer racing festivals are a highlight in Ireland’s sporting and social calendars alike. Richard Forristal studies the form. orse-racing over jumps is a national passion that dates back to 1752 and a famous clash between Edmund Blake and Cornelius O’Callaghan. To settle a wager, the Co Cork duo raced on horseback between Buttevant and Doneraile, crossing stone walls and ditches along the way. They nominated the respective church steeples as start and end points, and so “steeplechasing” was born. The sport, which has spread beyond these shores, remains rooted in its traditions here by way of point-to-points that take place on farmlands across the countryside during autumn and winter. However, through the summer, top-class racing – both over jumps and on the flat – prevails in some of the most picturesque and vibrant destinations in the country. Starting with a three-day meeting in Bellewstown (July 4-6;, a carnival of colour and drama rolls through to the middle of September. Situated on the idyllic Hill of Crockafatha in Co Meath, Bellewstown’s flat and jump races combine seamlessly to ensure there is something for all racing fans – and Ladies Day commentators.


A four-day Killarney jamboree (July 14-17; follows a week later. One of the most stunning racecourse settings in the world, the Kerry destination is a divine natural amphitheatre that nestles alongside the Killarney Lakes beneath the McGillycuddy Reeks. A variety of other quaint rural venues, such as Roscommon, Sligo, Tramore and Ballinrobe, also get into festival mode at this time of year, with Listowel’s Equine 156-year-old Harvest Festival Guinness Galway Hurdle, with a opportunities – (September 14-20; prize fund of €260,000, is the most neck and neck at constituting a finale of sorts. valuable jump race in the country. the Galway Races. At the apex though is the For the professionals, though, suburban Galway location of it is the Curragh ( in Ballybrit (July 28 to August 3; Co Kildare and Leopardstown For a marathon ( in Dublin that seven days and seven nights, provide real quality on the flat. the City of the Tribes moves Indeed, come September SHOW TIME to its own beat. Playwright 13-14, the two venues will Trot to the RDS, John B Keane once combine to pit some of the Ballsbridge, for The Dublin described the Galway most precocious racehorses Horse Show, August 6-10. Races as “a state of in the world against each Witness over 1,200 horses and mind”, and while they other. The inaugural Irish ponies competing, ogle at retail are certainly central to Champions Weekend stalls and marvel at Montana the escapism, there is also boasts an aggregate purse horseman, Buck Brannaman much more to this event of €3.7 million, with the that attracts a few hundred Irish Champion Stakes and thousand revellers each year. Irish St Leger headlining a The city’s street entertainment stellar programme. It should and charm, the buzz and the craic, be epic. are part of that indecipherable magnetism of the west. Also, the For more information, see

3 safe bets ...


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Irish Champions Weekend, September 13-14 Leopardstown and the Curragh, left, host a grand finale to the flat season that features some of the fastest horses on the planet. The venues are 50 kilometres apart, but both are beside a motorway and Leopardstown is just a short Luas (tram) ride from Dublin’s city centre.


The Arlington Million, August 16 Hosted in the sunkissed splendour of Arlington Park in Illinois, Chicago, the Million is one of the US’s great flat races, and a much sought-after prize for European riders. Aidan O’Brien, master of the fabled Ballydoyle stables in Co Tipperary, regularly attends, so you may even see the maestro in action.


Yorkshire Ebor Festival, August 20-23 One of the traditional highlights of the English season, Ebor is popular with both racing aficionados and casual merrymakers. The York course is handily close to a walled city-centre rich in history, and the action on the Knavesmire track is always high quality.

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Different strokes ... Under one-on-one tuition, “wind-milling” David Robbins learns to glide in the Park Hotel pool.

wim coach Marie when your arms are flailing about, Wade has seen it all. your stroke is too fast and there is Tentative old ladies no real power when you pull your who have never hands back through the water. swum in their lives. “You’re starting the next stroke Frustrated triathletes who have before you’ve finished the first,” she mastered the bike and the run but says. We begin with a few drills – who just can’t get the hang of the four or five strokes swim. And me. with no breathing, “Oh, you’re no bother at all,” then a strange exercise says Marie from the side of the lap involving swimming pool in the Park Hotel, Kenmare, on my side, leg-kick Co Kerry. Marie, who has lived in only, with my head Killarney all her life, has a lovely tilted up towards way: no-nonsense, with after-tones the ceiling. of encouragement. “If I can teach I was taught to swim Brendan O’Connor, I can teach “like a barge”, says anyone,” she laughs. Brendan, the Marie. That is: I swim Sunday Independent journalist and with my torso flat in RTÉ chat-show host, apparently the water and my limbs “sank like a stone” when he doing all the came to see her in 2008. moving. “I’m TAKE A “Now he’s cracking going to teach you to BREAK out 30, 40 lengths,” swim like a yacht,” she says. she adds, twisting Two nights’ B&B, one The 25-metre in the water with dinner and four one-onpool – made, each stroke. It is one swimming classes, unusually, from a key insight and, from €595pp. No single stainless steel – once I get the hang supplement applies. Details is empty, thank of it, I move further at goodness. And with less effort. unlike many of Marie’s By the time my students, I can already wife and daughter arrive swim. “Your actual stroke isn’t to have a laugh at me, I’m bad,” she concedes. “But you’ve no swimming quite well. “He’s a glide. You’re wind-milling.” natural,” Marie tells them. Wind-milling, apparently, is Throughout the last few


Top, the calm before the swim – a serene Park Hotel Kenmare and, above, the stainless-steel pool.

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1 Beach Towel by Superdry, €34.99 at Superdry, Suffolk Street, Dublin 2 2 Panama Hat by Shevlin Millinery, €120 at 3 Tykho Radio by Lexon Design, by Marc Berthier, €54.57 at 4 PGoggles by Speedo, €50 at 5 Wash Bag by Paul Smith, €155 at Brown Thomas, Grafton Street, Dublin 2

exercises, Marie dangles ex the th prospect of the awardwinning Park Hotel wi breakfast br in front of me, just ju out of reach. She’s right, the breakfast is wonderful and tastes all the better after an hour in the pool. Exercise confers a virtue out of all proportion to the number of calories burned. I allow myself the full run of the menu: fresh scones, scrambled eggs with smoked salmon, pancakes and fruit. John Brennan, managing director at the Park (his brother Francis is the proprietor, both familiar from RTÉ’s At Your Service), tells me that last year, they had ten or so bookings for Marie’s one-on-one swimming course. “I’ve had people checking out with tears in their eyes because they had never been able to swim before,” he says. “That’s a wonderful thing to see.” The Park is a Kenmare institution, its reputation based on the old-fashioned virtues of service, comfort and good food. But the learn-to-swim programme has added another dimension, as has the award-winning SÁMAS spa. Marie warned me that I’d be stiff after the class – and on the drive home I experience aches and pains in unfamiliar places. But, hey, I tell myself, these are just the occupational hazards of us “natural” swimmers.

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Passing fancies

Pop-ups are set to surprise the summer dining scene. Aoife Carrigy looks at who’s doing what. wo young culinary students became the talk of Dublin town earlier this summer when they transformed Meeting House Square into “The Secret Garden” outdoor pop-up restaurant. Harry Colley and Cuán Green of Dublin Pop Up (@DublinPopUp) fed close to 1,000 hungry diners over five days, wowing foodies with their creative ambition both on and off the plate. When the project was revealed to be a charity fundraiser, the “secret” was unveiled: the event had been a clever marketing coup by Lidl from where all the ingredients had been sourced. It’s not the first time a popup has been used as a marketing tool but the scale of the event and the public appetite for it proved that the Irish pop-up has well and truly come of age. This summer sees a flurry of temporary Irish eating experiences popping up everywhere, from converted boathouses off deserted beaches (see panel) to walled gardens at boutique festivals ( Dublin’s Royal College of Physicians was the most recent setting for the Guerrilla Gourmet Club’s series of curated collaborations between wellestablished chefs and up-andcoming Irish food producers, while the club’s upcoming autumn event will island-hop across the Irish Sea to chef Richard Corrigan’s eponymous London restaurant. The cross-channel traffic goes both ways. Giles Clark (Young British Foodie Awards Best Chef 2013) will feature in the Irish Museum of Modern Art’s “Summer at IMMA” late-July food strand, co-ordinated by Michelle Darmody of The Cake Café ( She also calls on the talents of Fiona Hallinan and Katie Sanderson of The Hare, a “plant-based” popup café known for kaleidoscopic



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bursts of colour and flavour. Another regular dabbler in pop-up projects, Jess Murphy of Galway’s Kai ( will team up with artist Mark Geary to transform one of IMMA’s historic halls into an “indoor garden” themed banquet. For Darmody, this is one of the joys of the pop-up experience: “bringing people into unusual spaces and offering them new experiences.” Several restaurateurs and chefs, including John Wyer and Sandy Sabek, have used the pop-up format to establish what later became permanent fixtures. Wyer says their Supper Club Project was “very much a means to an end” – the end being the autumn 2013 launch of their critically-acclaimed Forest Avenue restaurant in Dublin 4. But for other key pop-up players, such as Katie Sanderson, the creative process is the reward in itself. “You get to put all the effort into creating something but it can end on a high – and then you can go explore another area you’re not so knowledgable in.” Darmody agrees that impermanence brings creative freedom. “You don’t have the boring mundane details of running a business, like paying rates or ensuring repeat custom. It’s more like putting on a gig. You get to show off and have fun.” That heady combination can be seductive. “It’s great to get to see everything through from start to finish, instead of simply turning up for a shift,” says Colley of Dublin Pop Up. Their Lidl secret may be out but they’re not giving up the pop-up game just yet, with more Tweet-for-seats projects in the pipeline. It’s all still to play for.

3 to watch …


Top, Katie Sanderson plates up and, above, pop-up pleasures by Michelle Darmody of the Cake Café.

OPEN CHAMPIONSHIP DILLISK, CONNEMARA Katie Sanderson and Ja Jasper O’Connor (The Fumbally) are basing th themselves in Connemara for a summer of planting, picking and sourcing the best of local suppliers. Their “seaside food project” will culminate in three intimate dinners a week in a converted boat shed on the water’s edge, showcasing freshly foraged sea vegetables.


DANNY GRANT AT AMPERSAND, CHICAGO Coinciding with the opening night of Taste of Chicago, see page 14 (July 9-13;, chef Danny Grant returns from Miami to cook for one night only in the city where he became the youngest US chef to earn two Michelin stars (2011 and 2012), with Chicago’s secret restaurant and test-kitchen space, Ampersand, playing host on the night.


“ON THE ROOF WITH …” Q, LONDON Selfridges of Oxford Street has created a pop-up summertime restaurant, complete with fully retractable roof. First up in the “On the Roof with …” series is chef Des McDonald (formerly The Ivy), who will curate events with leading chefs, producers, innovators and influencers and oversee the barbecue-focused menu.

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Shelf Life|

Cool guidebooks for cool people and David Dickson’s secret Dublin, by Bridget Hourican.

Behind the lines


David Dickson, associate professor of history in Trinity College Dublin, on Ireland’s capital.


(€9.95) A hipster in your pocket, the Analogue city guides are small, slim, stylish and uncluttered, perfect for a weekend visit. They don’t weigh you down with information, they choose a few things to do in GIRL POWER each neighbourhood, plus choice places to stay, Feminism, Sherlock and eat, and shop. The focus is on hip design, the silent heavy metal kid locally sourced produce and independent on Gogglebox are among the ownership. The Berlin guide spotlights seven subjects covered in Caitlin Moran’s neighbourhoods; for Kreuzberg & Neukölln How to Build a Girl tour this (or Kreuzkölln), recommendations include: month that includes Dublin’s a café, Five Elephant Coffee, which roasts its Vicar Street on July 5. own beans; a neoclassical swimming pool and sauna, Stadtbad Neukölln, above; a gift shop, Süper Store, with objets trouvés from around the globe; a liquorice shop, Kadó; and examples of Modernist and monumentalist architecture. Great photos and excellent colour-coded maps.

WHAT MAKES DUBLIN UNIQUE? The city has managed to reinvent itself again and again over a thousand years, from Viking to Norman, from Catholic to Protestant, and back again (and now we’ve seen it change from Europe’s tiger to Frankfurt’s poodle). WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE THING TO DO IN DUBLIN? To walk Merrion Strand with my family when the tide is out, the sun is low, and the dog is chasing 50 gulls. FAVOURITE SECRET DUBLIN LANDMARK? St Werburgh’s Church with its hidden access from Castle Street. It’s one of the oldest Christian sites in the city, the burial place of, among others, Lord Edward Fitzgerald in 1798, and its interior is magical. FAVOURITE BOOK ABOUT DUBLIN? For fiction, if we can pretend that Joyce never set pen to paper, it has to be the work of James Stephens. Non-fiction: Maurice Craig’s evergreen architectural and social history Dublin 1660-1860, first published in 1952. WHEN WOULD YOU MOST HAVE LIKED TO LIVE IN DUBLIN? The 1780s, a time of sudden optimism (thanks more to George Washington than Henry Grattan), when Dublin was mischievously alive, new streets were appearing, the workshop economy was as diverse as ever, and plans for a new city centre were being hatched. David Dickson’s The Making of a Capital City: Dublin (Profile Books, £30) spans the years 1600 to 2000, and is out now.

Three memoirs of places … THE LONELIEST BOY IN THE WORLD: THE LAST CHILD OF THE GREAT BLASKET by Ge Gearóid Cheaist O Catháin (C (Collins Press, €12.99) When Gearóid was born in 1947, Ge he was the on only child in the tiny island community off the coast of Kerry. For six years – until the Blaskets were evacuated in 1954 – he flourished without doctor, priest, school, church, or electricity.

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INSIDE A PEARL by Ed Edmund White (Bloomsbury, €23.99) In 1983, the 43-year€2 old Edmund White moved to Pa Paris for a few months. He spoke no French and knew sp just two peopl people, but he fell for the city of lights and stayed 15 years, boulevardiering and meeting everyone from Yves St Laurent and Catherine Deneuve to Michel Foucault.

THE VALLEY: A CENTURY IN THE LIFE OF A MINING FAMILY by Richard Benson Be (Bloomsbury, €30) Yorkshire’s Yo Dearne Valley is home to coalfields and close-knit villages. villag The author’s greatgrandmother, Winnie, was born there in 1909 and died in 2002 after the last mine was closed. This tells the tale of four generations of her family.






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Murphy’s TV and film star Cillian Murphy returns to the “magic” of live theatre this summer, in a touring production of a new Enda Walsh play. The fact that at any moment it can all go horribly wrong is part of the appeal, he tells Tony Clayton-Lea. Photographs by Richard Gilligan.


ow unusual it is to see an extremely well-known person kick back and be nothing but himself. On the top floor of a dishevelled building (formerly a disused mill, now a thriving arts centre space) in Salford, just outside Manchester city centre, the Cork-born actor Cillian Murphy is having his photograph taken, while Fleetwood Mac’s bluesy “Need Your Love So Bad” oozes out of a portable iPod-speaker unit. Unquestionably one of the finest actors of his generation, 38-year-old Murphy is dressed in clothes that complement the building’s distressed fabric. That anyone can look so cool and so comfortable in his own skin – wearing just a pair of weary-looking black jeans, a denim jacket, a white T-shirt, scuffed shoes and a severe haircut that wouldn’t look out


of place in a government-approved Home For Unruly Young Men – is instructive. Murphy, for all his success and fame over the past ten years, is clearly more “person” than personality; more at home with people than with paparazzi; more eager to talk about his love of music, literature, film and art, than he is about work. We are here to talk about this, that and the other, including the actor’s latest incursion into theatre – Ballyturk, which premières at the Galway International Arts Festival (GIAF) this month. Post-shoot, sitting inconspicuously in a café in Manchester’s shabby-chic Northern Quarter, a mug of steaming Americano close to hand, Murphy describes Ballyturk as “essentially, a play about life; the struggle of getting from the start of a day to its end. It’s also the struggle of creative life, what it means to be a creative person, and how that particular struggle can compound and impact on a person.” Noted Irish actors Stephen Rea and Mikel Murfi join Murphy in Ballyturk; while the former always lends an air of gravitas to anything he appears in, the latter is renowned not only for his theatre directing but also performances of innovative physical comedy. And, according to Murphy, Ballyturk stretches the creative envelope to near snapping point. Theatre is where the teenage Cillian Murphy started his career, and Ballyturk reunites him once again with playwright Enda

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Walsh, his longstanding, close friend and creatively empathetic mischief-maker. Walsh is the writer of acclaimed works, including Disco Pigs (in which Murphy made his professional acting debut in the mid-1990s) and Misterman (which premièred at GIAF, 2011, and for which Murphy picked up numerous gongs, including the Irish Times Theatre Award for Best Actor). “Theatre was always my thing,” he nods. “I started off doing that with Cork’s Corcadorca, then with Galway’s Druid. What I like about theatre is that it’s ephemeral. Films and television, on the other hand, are preserved – they become a legacy, of a kind, because they can be rewatched and reviewed.” The live element of theatre is what appeals most to Murphy. He started off wanting to be a musician – in thrall to Cork bands such as Frank & Walters and Sultans of Ping FC, before forming his own, which, like hundreds before and after, surfaced, floundered, departed and disappeared. “The most important aspect of music is playing live, but then I moved into theatre, which has a similar contract and exchange with the audience. When you go into film, you’re way down the food chain in terms of maintaining that level of exchange – to be honest, you’re little more than a building block. So theatre brings me that exchange again, and allows for the potential of magic to happen in a space between audience and performer.” What Murphy loves most about theatre and music (“but particularly theatre,” he emphasises as he swirls a spoon around in his coffee mug) is the inherent danger. At any moment, he says, it can all go horribly wrong. “I could forget my lines, the lights could falter, people

could get up and leave, they could faint, a curtain might go up or down when it shouldn’t. When it happens that all of these elements go right at the same time it is actually magic.” He smiles at the very notion of such a thing taking place. He raises his spoon as if preparing to make a salient point. “And then it’s gone! For me, that’s the beauty of it.” He still reckons that such “magic” can happen in cinema and television, the difference being that an actor’s work is passed over to a director, an editor, marketing people, distribution people. “So you have to step back, and then a year later you see the finished product. I’m sure the magic can still happen, but in a more delayed, fractured way.” A relevant case in point is the unbroken, 17-minute dialogue scene, in the film Hunger (co-written, incidentally, by Enda Walsh), between Irish actors

“I need to know that the theatre work I do is something I’m going to love. I’m excited by contemporary work, what’s pushing the boundaries, what makes people think ... ” 38 |

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Magic moment – the Cork actor thrives on the precarious nature of live theatre.

Liam Cunningham and Michael Fassbender. This renowned scene of masterclass acting, says Murphy, is a prime example of “what everyone keeps striving for in theatre, film and music – a piece of art that just clicks”. Murphy has been clued into what clicks for some time now; he’s very smart with his choice of film roles, especially so from his breakthrough 2002 movie, 28 Days Later, and he seems acutely aware that working with directors who are open to at least listening to ideas (the likes of Christopher Nolan, Danny Boyle, Ken Loach and Neil Jordan) more often than not benefits the end results. His next major movie role will be seen in 2015, in director Ron Howard’s The Heart of the Sea – “a great old-fashioned yarn based on a true story about the inspiration behind Herman Melville’s writing of Moby Dick”. In the meantime, there are movie scripts to be read and prepping to be completed for season two of BBC’s successful series Peaky Blinders (which is set in 1920s England and accounts for Murphy’s irregular haircut). And he will, of course, continue to work in his first love, theatre. “You have to do it for love because it doesn’t pay well. So I need to know that the theatre work I do is something I’m going to love and that the people I’m going on the journey with are people I trust. I’m excited by contemporary work, what’s pushing the boundaries, what makes people think.” But how time flies – less than 15 years ago, Murphy was living in Cork, a relatively unknown actor. Now? He has lived in London since 2001, still retains a recognisable Cork accent, is a garlanded stage and screen actor, is married to Irish artist Yvonne McGuinness and is the proud father of two boys, eight-yearold Malachy and six-year-old Aran. “We’re settled in London,” he admits, “but we have a place in Ireland and we go there as often as we can. Because Ireland is so close, my sons are aware of their Irish heritage; they’re with their grandparents very often and they’re running around the Irish

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countryside. I live in London for the energy; that may change, of course, but right now it’s where I want and need to be.” Murphy says that he never felt any disadvantage at being an Irish guy in London – “and, it’s important to say, never at an advantage, either. It’s very much a meritocracy and if you can succeed then so be it. I would concede that we hang out with a lot of Irish people in London but I think that’s quite normal – the London-Irish thing is still there, very strong.” And Murphy eats, sleeps and breathes anything beyond his acting then it’s music. He has musician friends and loves going to gigs – “I still get a huge rush of excitement walking through the door of a venue with its sweaty, beery smell and the potential for greatness.” He occasionally dons his DJ hat and last year directed his first music video “Hold Me Forever” for a Manchester band, Money. “I’d love to do it again but it has to be the right song – I wouldn’t do it just because I want to become a director.” Life is good, then, for the actor

who simply wants to keep working with people he admires. Despite the high profile movies (the Dark Knight trilogy) and the famous costars (Leonardo DiCaprio, Rachel McAdams, Colin Farrell), Murphy goes about his business without, as he says, “being bothered”. He can go to gigs, plays, restaurants and use public transport, without anyone shoving a smartphone in his face. “I’m really happy about that,” he says in a tone of voice that’s part relief, part underlined. “I guess I’m not very

Riding high – Murphy in the award-winning BBC series Peaky Blinders.

good at being a ‘personality’ and I’m not very comfortable doing the red carpet thing, or the chat show scenario. I wish I was, because it would make life easier for me.” That being said, Murphy seems so much more relaxed these years. It’s called getting older and wising up, apparently. A smile. “Yeah, it is, it is.” He stirs what’s left in his coffee mug and takes a final sip. “Yeah, getting older, having kids, and prioritising slightly.” He pauses for a few seconds. “I think I was an impatient youth, but I’m happier these days for things to be a bit slower. I’m still hungry for great work, of course, but I’m not going to beat myself up if it doesn’t come immediately.” As part of the Galway International Arts Festival (, Ballyturk, runs at Black Box, Galway, from July 10-27. Before going to: Olympia Theatre, Dublin, August 7-23; Cork Opera House, August 26-30; National Theatre, London, September 11 to October 11. Cara thanks Salford City Council and Islington Mill for their assistance.

The Likes of Cillian Murphy … MUSIC “Music is a continuous source of excitement and inspiration for me, and I listen to as much of it as I can. One of my albums of the year, so far, is Salad Days by Canadian musician, Mac DeMarco. The recently released albums from Gruff Rhys (American Interior) and Damon Albarn (Everyday Robots) are also really good. And Darlings, from Broken Social Scene’s Kevin Drew, is another fine one.” BOOKS “I went back to Ernest Hemingway again – To Have and Have Not, The Old Man and the Sea. Having re-read them, I realised that he’s a master; The Old Man and the Sea is a perfect

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work of fiction – so emotional and so brief. Another book I’ve recently read is Donna nna Tartt’s The Goldfinch – I was underwhelmed, to be honest.” MOVIES “Blue Ruin, directed by Jeremy Saulnier, is brilliant. Forr me, the hardest thing to achieve in cinema is atmosphere, but Blue Ruin has an incredible sense of brooding and oppressiveness, and an inexorable journey towards violence. I also recently saw The Double, directed by Richard Ayoade. Really enjoyed it – very clever, very imaginative.”

food, lovely atmosphere and they’re very good to me in there. I have a great affinity for Galway – a pint of Guinness on a sunny day in that city is one of the best thing things life can offer.”

RESTAURANTS “I’ll be in Galway through most of July, so I’ll be paying a visit to Ard Bia (Spanish Arch, 091 561 114;, above). It’s got great

TELEVISION “True Detective – what a masterwork! The only thing I wasn’t crazy about was the female characters, which were slightly underwritten, but the sense of place and the dialogue were amazing. As were the performances from Matthew McConaughey, left, and Woody Harrelson – it seems they’re each at that point in their career where anything they do is immense.”

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From painting to performance and sculpture to storytelling, how will the upcoming generation of artists define Irish art? Six of them, who are all exhibiting this summer, share their vision with Gemma Tipton. Photographs by Al Higgins.


hey’re well travelled, well connected and well received on the international stage. But is there an outlook that distinguishes an Irish artist anymore? Back in 1971 one of this country’s most successful contemporary artists, Brian O’Doherty, described Irish art’s “restless fix on the unimportant”. This wasn’t pejorative, rather O’Doherty was pinpointing a genius for grasping at those smaller things – the “bits around the edges” – that have just as strong an influence on our lives and hearts and minds, as those grand central narratives of famous people, huge events and affairs of state. Despite the recession, Irish contemporary art is in a good place. Sean Scully is feted around the world; Dorothy Cross recently showed to great acclaim at the Turner Margate and the Royal Hibernian Academy in Dublin; Richard Mosse had one of the most successful installations yet at the Irish pavilion in the 2013 Venice Biennale; and London-based Irish artist Eva Rothschild has just returned to Dublin with a triumphant exhibition at the Hugh Lane Gallery (until September 21; But what of the next generation? Which artists will be making and shaping Irish art over the coming decades? From painting to performance, sculpture to storytelling, to serving food as art, the six artists profiled here represent a generation with something to say – not just about being an artist in Ireland but about what it means to be a person in the world. They are also all exhibiting this summer, so plan your trip, and prepare to be beguiled, provoked, fascinated, delighted, moved and also very well fed.

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Jennie Moran If art is about making us see the world and our place within it anew, then Jennie Moran’s Luncheonette is definitely art. Except it’s also a café in the arched vaults of the National College of Art and Design in Dublin, which has been gathering a reputation since it opened last September. That’s because Moran’s work is also all about making spaces for hospitality. “It’s one of the shortcomings of the art world,” she says, “that you make work primarily for other artists to see. I wanted to go beyond that.” Engaging and fascinating to chat to, Dublin-born Moran graduated from NCAD with a degree in sculpture, and her projects include altering lighting and seating in a Dublin alleyway, and a mobile catering unit cropping up in unexpected places. “It’s sneaky ways,” as she puts it, “of working with an inhospitable space. I like the idea of people being in spaces they think they shouldn’t be in.” The food at Luncheonette is “like a decoy for the project,” where what she’s really interested in is how people interact and react. It has to be said, the food is pretty marvellous too. Jennie Moran is part of the IMMA SummerFest at the Irish Museum of Modern Art in Dublin, July 18–26. The event features music, film, happenings, cabaret and art. or

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Liam O’Callaghan Did you know that broken car mirrors could be beautiful? That there’s magic to be found in a spinning chair? This is the type of thing that Liam O’Callaghan notices and then captures in his films, photographs and installations. There’s a darker side too though: in his recent Ordinary Man Series, a figure, who just happens to have an extra pair of legs instead of arms, attempts to make his way around a room. There’s a sense of sadness in his attempts, always making the same mistakes, always falling. “Am I an optimist or a pessimist?” O’Callaghan muses. “There’s a thread of knitting together what’s broken, and beauty, and there’s the inventiveness, the design by necessity. In the middle, where I grapple around, there’s the human condition type stuff … I’m optimistic, maybe less so than I used to be. I guess that’s life, that’s fine.” This blend of dark humour, absurdity, life, loss and hope has taken O’Callaghan around the world with work that sticks in the mind. “Some people separate seriousness from playful humour in art,” says the artist. “But just because it’s comical doesn’t mean it hasn’t got a serious side.” Liam O’Callaghan’s If and then… (again) is at the Galway Arts Centre, July 14–27, as part of the Galway Arts Festival. or

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Aideen Barry Do you ever find yourself on the wrong end of a compulsion? A nagging concern that gets out of control? If so, you’ll find something familiar in Aideen Barry’s brilliant videos, installations and performances. These may feature herself, relentlessly shopping, cleaning, cooking. In Flight Folly, a performance at the Basel Art Fair, tiny, remote-control helicopters raised the artist’s voluminous skirts; while a residency with NASA led to a deliciously witty short film, Vacuuming in a Vacuum. These are linked by the idea of being at the mercies of not only external forces but also of our own demons. “I’m interested in obsessional behaviours,” she says, “those forms of anxiety that make us behave in ways that can seem strange.” While Barry doesn’t play for laughs, her wry touch raises a smile. Add to this an unerring eye, and you can see why the Co Clarebased artist has been invited to exhibit and make work around the world. Currently she is working in Catalonia (Spain), Mayo (Ireland) and Northamptonshire (UK), with Changing Tracks, as three artists install works on disused railway lines. In Mayo, it’s the beautiful Westport/ Achill Greenway, and Barry has taken inspiration from a Victorian book: Lillias Campbell Davidson’s Hints to Lady Travellers. “The book shows you what these women worried about; there are instructions on how to make a suitcase out of a bathtub [so you can use it for bathing]. She was concerned that there weren’t baths on trains,” the artist says. Changing Tracks launches in Mayo on July 12, and runs in all three locations until November. or

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Gabhann Dunne A reindeer stands alert, antlers aloft. There’s a forest in the snow; elsewhere a dog barks in the wilderness. Gabhann Dunne’s paintings are beguilingly beautiful but there’s something else going on. “Beauty can be a Trojan horse,” the artist explains. “You can use it to slip other ideas in but you have to be able to get them into the paint.” After graduating with an art degree, Dunne felt frustrated. “I still didn’t have the facility to present what I wanted, so I thought I’d invest four years in learning. Now I can explore, I can say ‘okay, that’s what I want to do’… I’d look at paintings, a Velasquez, or a Degas, and think ‘ahh, that’s how they did it’. Looking at the

brushstrokes, that’s where you get an intimacy, that’s where it all comes from.” Now based at Broadstone Studios in Dublin, the results of Dunne’s inquiries are small, delicate but powerful works, that have earned the artist awards and solo shows, even though he only completed his Masters at the National College of Art and Design in Dublin in 2011. “It’s about getting mood and structure,” he says. “I’m looking to make work that’s much more than a single sentence”. The results speak volumes. Gabhann Dunne’s work can be seen at the Royal Hibernian Academy’s 184th Annual Exhibition, until August 9. or

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Caoimhe Kilfeather “Sometimes,” says Caoimhe Kilfeather, “there’s an inherent fight, a struggle with materials. But there can be surprises too.” Graduating from Dublin’s National College of Art and Design, and with an MA from the Slade in London, she went on to spend a year working as a technician with famed artist Antony Gormley. “It was intense, but lively,” she remembers. “I was influenced by the rigorous approach to work, and by the other artists there.” Kilfeather’s art is nonetheless uniquely her own. “Sometimes the material finds its own form,” she admits. “I’m not always in full control of the final piece.” Most recently this was seen to marvellous effect at Dublin’s Oonagh Young Gallery, where Before it Stirs the Surface was a vast, dark woven structure, both delicate and brooding, taking over the space. Kilfeather is one of an emerging generation of Irish artists bringing sculpture in new directions, to international acclaim, so do you need to understand the artist’s research and theory to appreciate it? “There are various types of thinking that inform my work,” she says. These include ideas of time, residue, what’s left behind when things fade away. “But the experience you have when you’re there with it, that’s the primary thing.” Caoimhe Kilfeather’s exhibition, This Attentive Place, runs until August 21 at the Temple Bar Gallery, Dublin. or

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Sean Lynch What links the adventures of a pair of Irish stonecarvers in 19th-century Oxford, the illfated DeLorean sports car, a hawthorn tree in Co Clare and peregrine falcons flying over a Limerick housing estate? All have piqued the interest of Sean Lynch, who divides his time between Berlin and Limerick. Lynch, who will be Ireland’s representative at the 2015 Venice Biennale, and has just completed a major show at Modern Art Oxford, is intrigued by how pieces of information, myths, objects

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and images come together to shape what we understand as history. “Artworks can open up all that. They’re stories as flexible forms, giving you different ways of looking at the world.” A conversation with Lynch is guaranteed to dive down alleyways, and take off at tangents. You find yourself offering information you didn’t realise you had, to feed his fascination with the coincidental, the absurd, the remarkable. Working with texts, film, photography and sculpture, Lynch says the excitement

is always in that phone call, the one that reveals something new … He’s currently archiving his desk, putting all in order ahead of Venice, though he also admits that the real gems are still to be found, written down in notes on the back of receipts. Sean Lynch’s work is on show as part of Chancery Lane at the Kevin Kavanagh Gallery, Dublin, July 10 to August 2, and also at Dunamaise Arts Centre, Portlaoise until August 1. or

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Modernity bypassed the Aran Islands, where the bicycle is both a reminder of the past and a glimpse of a carbon-neutral future. Give these stony outposts the time they deserve and they will repay you with searing sights and lifelong memories, writes Manchรกn Magan. Photographs by Matthew Thompson.

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Rock of ages – bracing cliff walks on Inishmore.

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hree vast, fossilised sea creatures rise up from the murky, wave-crested waters off the coast of Galway: the Aran Islands hold a grip on our psyche far out of proportion to their size. Arriving by open-decked ferry or tiny Cessna plane is an almost ritualistic experience. Most visitors are aware of the potency of the traditional culture that exists here: the rich language heritage and the dramatic archaeological remains, but what strikes one first is the light. The islands shimmer with a luminosity that pours across the sparse, stark land, unimpeded by trees, buildings or hills. On even the darkest days, light seeps through the clouds, then bounces back up from the sea, the swathes of bright limestone slabs and the stone walls that cobweb the entire crocodileskin land. The pigments are almost too colour-saturated, like being caught inside a backlit photo slide. Standing on the pier, or the air strip, one stares out at these pterodactyl beasts, bewildered by their stony strangeness. Of the three Aran Islands, Inishmore (Inis Mór, meaning large island) is the largest; Inisheer (Inis Oírr, meaning east island), the smallest; and Inishmaan (Inis Meáin, meaning middle island), is the quietest and least sullied by modernity. Ideally, one should hop between all three to get a sense of their different characters, but most people start off in Kilronan, the main village on Inishmore. The first challenge here – as far as I’m concerned – is to arrange transport and get out of this garish and hectic spot fast. There are three options: a three-hour minibus tour


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Island bound, our man Manchán Magan and, this photograph, the stony strangeness of the Aran Islands.


et in the heart of Georgian Dublin, on the west side of historic St Stephen’s Green, award-winning Restaurant FortyOne embodies the best of Modern irish dining. Relish the output from one of the city’s most accomplished chefs in smart, comfortable surroundings, while savouring dishes that showcase world-class, gastronomic flair, combined with a desire to let the best of irish produce – much of which comes from the restaurant’s own organic gardens – shine. A sumptuous treat for visitors to Dublin looking to experience an unforgettable meal in a highly memorable setting.


RelY On modern saucing techniques to bring a dish together. there are no heavy starch sauces or, for that matter, an over reliance on double cream and fats. Vegetables and fruit juices are produced in our kitchen and grown in our own garden. Using the same principles, i integrate raw vegetables and cooked vegetables in dishes to maximise taste and texture. i want to create an environment which is surprising and inviting, where my food can create dialogue and discussion.”

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Stay at … INISHMORE Kilmurvey House is a classic, 18th-century stone farmhouse with cosy new rooms and a charming sitting room. Fantastic breakfast of homemade granola, cinnamon French toast, compote. Home-cooked set-dinners. From €55 pps. (099 61218; INISHEER South Aran House, clean, bright B&B, with novel breakfast choices served in its Fisherman’s Cottage restaurant next door. An odd range of house rules includes “no make-up to be worn in bed”. From €39 pps.

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(099 75073; Radharc An Chláir is a traditional bungalow B&B, run by Bríd Pholl, passionate Gaeilgeoir and traditional home cook. A true island experience. From €32 pps. (099 75019) INISHMAAN Ruairí and Marie-Thérèse de Blacam’s design accommodation and restaurant, Inis Meáin Suites & Restaurant, pictured, are built of glass and stone, camouflaged amidst the dry-stone walls. There are five rooms, each with spectacular views. From €440 per suite

for two nights, including breakfast, lunch, bikes and fishing rods. (086 826 6026; At Tigh Chonghaile, a clean, bright guesthouse run by an island fisherman and his Guatemalan wife, expect freshlycaught lobster, mackerel, salmon and veg from the garden. From €40 pps. (099 73085; An Dún, Pádraig & Theresa Ó Fatharta’s guesthouse with great views and delicious home-cooked, home-grown food. From €38 pps. (087 680 6251;

around the island for €10; a threehour pony and trap tour for €50; or to hire a bike for €10 a day. Though the pony and trap seems expensive, the driver’s insights are priceless. These are fishermen who’ve fulfilled their fishing quota for the year, or men whose families have been bringing islanders to church in these same traps for generations. Inishmaan and Inisheer are small enough that transport isn’t really necessary, but on Inishmore, 14 kilometres long by four kilometres wide, you need wheels. A bike offers the chance to explore the island at leisure. The four prehistoric stone forts are marked on every map: Dun Aengus is the most famous, but Black Fort (Dún Dúchathair) is even more evocative and less crowded. Check out the Worm Hole (Poll na bPéist) too, a perfectly-rectangular natural rock pool that takes time to reach, but is well worth it, and the monastic ruins from the seventh century up until the 15th. There’s a ninth-century cross slab at the site of the Seven Churches commemorating seven Romans who came to study at the island’s monastic school, showing how central this region was in the early medieval world. Later, the islands’ importance and wealth declined and we now benefit from the fact that modernity bypassed them, preserving the past and the rich store of Irish language that’s still widely spoken on all three islands. Each of the major sites on Inishmore offers intriguing glimpses of our gradual evolution from 1500BC through early Christianity to the present day, but the real thrill is in unearthing the places themselves. Signage is purposefully minimal, except at Dun Aengus, so that one has to work to find them – honing one’s bearings and intuiting the landscape. It’s slow tourism at its best and requires spending at least one night on the island. The old herding trails and seaweed foraging tracks that swerve

and curve across the islands are not conducive to quick dashing tours before rushing back to a ferry. The tracks and their walls tend to bewitch visitors – the sheer dizzying geometric diversity of them: stones arranged in chevrons, interlocking angles and complex diagonals, all topped with a lacework of delicate copping stones. Their intricacy and ornate patterning suggest art, though in reality they are just practical field dividers, wind breaks and stores of field rocks – their alluring, awkward angles the result of land feuds and death-bed divisions over centuries. Many fields are now being further split by drills of potatoes, cabbage and onions, as islanders return to growing vegetables with a renewed vigour.


Flights to each island from Connemara: aerarannislands. ie. Ferry service from Doolin, Co Clare:; from Ros a’ Mhíl, Co Galway: Best company for interisland hopping: doolin2aranferries. com.

Clockwise from top left opposite, the sunken church at Inisheer; a hen foraging in Inishmaan; Feis Ceoil winner, Jackie Ní Uallacháin; a red roof in Inishmaan provides a pop of colour amidst the “crocodile-skin” grey land, and on the same island, the Inish Meáin Suites guest house.

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Coastal cooking ... INISHMORE Tí Joe Watty’s (099 20892; is a popular pub/restaurant with decent food, friendly atmosphere and mostly good music. You will find wonderful home-cooking at Teach Nan Phaidí, near Dun Aengus (099 20975): beef and Guinness stew, Inishmore goat’s cheese salad, scrumptious cakes. It gets crowded at lunchtime with minibus tours. INISHEER South Aran Restaurant ( open from 7pm-9pm serving locally caught fish, lamb, shellfish, homegrown herbs and salads. Teach an Tae (099 75092; cafearan. ie) serves irresistible cakes and delicious lunches made from home-grown vegetables and herbs, and eggs from their hens. There are also scones with Inis Oírr blackberry jam, organic vegetable soup, tuna and home-grown beetroot salad. INISHMAAN At Inis Meáin Restaurants and Suites (, 16 guests are served a set dinner at 8pm in a muted, modernist space with awe-inspiring views over the island and across Galway Bay. A meal here is something to be savoured: locally sourced lobster, crabs, scallops, sea-holly and fish. There is a stress on simplicity, with each dish having just two elements inspired by prime island ingredients, such as locally grown seaweed-nourished beetroot, with a distilled beetroot glaze and young beetroot leaves, or fresh mackerel sashimi with spring onions and a sesame marinade. Set meal costs €60 – expensive, but you’ll remember every second of it. Both Tigh Conghaile and An Dún B&Bs listed previously serve great lunches and dinner: fish soup, lamb, local beef, salmon with a dried seaweed crust, steamed samphire, salads from the garden.

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Above, Ruairí de Blacam preparing fresh asparagus at the Inis Meáin Restaurant. Below, the crystal-clear, aquamarine waters of Inisheer.

“We’ve always produced our own here,” says Pádraig Ó Fatharta of An Dún guesthouse on Inishmaan. “It’s about enjoying food as fresh as possible, without hauling it from the mainland.” Expect locally caught mackerel for breakfast; pollock and crab for dinner; tomatoes and courgettes from the numerous polytunnels, and veg fertilised by native seaweed. There is a real sense that the Aran Islands are finding their place in

the world again. Dara Ó Conaola, the poet of Inisheer (father of the great island singers Lasairfhíona and MacDara), talks of sustainability: “We’ve always depended on the resources we have; working with the seasons. In winter we stay by the fire until the days lengthen and we head out to start again on our little patches of vegetables. Summer then brings the strainséirí (the strangers) – they’ve been coming all our lives, like swallows.” “You couldn’t live here without the tourists,” agrees Ó Fatharta. “We’d be dead and buried without them. They liven up the place, especially after a harsh winter. Of course, they always ask the same questions but it doesn’t bother us.” The morning ferries arriving into Kilronan bring a thousand tourists to an island of just 840 people. All sorts of businesses spring up to cater to this seasonal tourism – and the islanders depend on the summer earnings to get them through the dark months. Non-islanders rarely experience the true wrath of island winters, apart from seeing the

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sea-gouged roads and boulders hurled inland, but it informs everything. “Last winter really tested us,” Ó Conaola admits. “Ferocious storms – very bleak. My thatch roof got badly damaged, but I’ll be out repairing it again now. It’s the way here: we all do a bit of farming, fishing, building and tourism.” Islanders are coming to realise that their long experience of living sustainably on limited resources means they have as much to teach the mainland as vice-versa. “We had no Celtic Tiger here, no big mortgages,” says Ó Fatharta. “We’re used to living on what we have.” They’ve avoided the ill-effects that insensitive building and modern commercial farming

wrought upon the mainland, and the old crafts of weaving, knitting, basket-making, rushwork and building traditional boats (currachs) are still alive, just about, ready to be rekindled if enough interest is shown. Already, the bicycle has been re-adopted as a primary form of transport in the summer: both a reminder of the past and a glimpse of a carbon-neutral future. Irish taxpayers subsidise key services on the islands and it’s wonderful to see the appreciation locals have for recent developments, like the new piers and secondary schools on each island. “Without the secondary school we’d have lost our youth and the island would die,” says Ó Fatharta about Inishmaan. “Even for those without

“We had no Celtic Tiger here, no big mortgages. We’re used to living on what we have” Left, the writing’s on the wall for Enda Conneely of South Aran House. Right, Inishmore in all its stark, recumbent glory.

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5 of the best …


Aran Sweater Market, overlooking Kilronan harbour on Inishmore since 1892, claims to have the widest selection of Aran knitwear in the world. Quality clothes, both hand and machine knitted. They are currently seeking knitters – fancy a new life on the islands? (


Aran Seaweed Baths and Spa on Inisheer has two rooms and three large baths for which seaweed is gathered, washed and heated every day by Annette Joyce and her husband. (087 760 0684)


Weaving, spinning and basketmaking classes Máiréad Sharry teaches crafts using wool, rushes, reeds and dyes in her traditional cottage on Inisheer, in front of an open fire.

Tea in the Sharry family home is available if there is anyone about. (maireadsharry.


An Cheard Shiopa, a craft shop and thatch cottage with folk relics run by poet and island philosopher, Dara Ó Conaola, on Inisheer. His occasional evening talks offer a profound insight into island culture. (099 75021;


Inis Meáin Knitwear, Tarlach de Blacam (father of Ruairí, see Inis Meáin Suites on page 58) works with the islanders to produce sophisticated knitwear in luxury yarns for discerning buyers internationally. The clothes are expensive, but far less so than in the elite stores that stock them abroad. (

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children it’s a great source of joy to hear their calls in winter, when it can be awfully quiet. My generation had to leave the island when we were twelve, nowadays children get to really connect with the place and to learn island ways.” It also helps sustain the Irish language, which one hears spoken far more frequently than anywhere on the mainland. “Secondary schools mean whole families stay that otherwise wouldn’t,’ says Ó Conaola. “It brings teachers in, who then marry and create families of their own. It’s organic development.” The biggest challenge for visitors in summer is avoiding the crowds – on Inisheer the three pubs can become hectic with revellers and stag parties. The trick is to escape. There are rocky trails across Inisheer leading to St Gobnait’s ninth-century oratory, St Caomhan’s twelfth-century church buried in sand, the sacred Well of St Enda and the wreck of the Plassey ship featured in the TV series Father Ted. There’s also an arts centre ( where a few enterprising locals sell weaving, basketwork and medicinal seaweeds. There are even now seaweed baths in someone’s house (see page 63). It’s an impressive range for a rock just three kilometres long by two kilometres wide. 64 |

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Left, the wreck of the Plassey – as seen in an episode of Father Ted. Below, Inishmaan resident Bartley Folan.

Inishmaan never really gets crowded. The cottage in which JM Synge (Teach Synge) lived during his time on the island is worth visiting, as is Synge’s Chair, a lookout on the far western edge of a sheer limestone cliff. There are two dramatic fourthand fifth-century forts here, similar to those on Inishmore, and some luminous, stained-glass windows by Harry Clarke’s studio in the Church of Mary Immaculate. A visit to Tarlach de Blacam’s Inis Meáin Knitwear (see page 63) and his son Ruairí’s spectacular Inis Meáin Suites (see page 58), is a revelatory experience. Give the Aran Islands the time they deserve and they will repay you with searing sights, sweet encounters and lifelong memories. Rush out there on a quick day trip and I can’t guarantee you’ll experience much of anything at all. For more on accommodation, food and attractions, see

A watercolour painting by Róisín O’Shea © 2012


ohnnie Fox’s Pub situated in the heart of the Dublin Mountains has it all, a living museum of Irish History andTradition where unique pieces from old farm implements to Historical antiquities adorn every wall, nook & cranny. Serving an award winning a la carte menu from 12.30 until late, with live musicians playing traditional Irish music 7 nights a week, our special kind of Irish welcome is not to be missed.


ituated only 40 minutes from Dublin City Centre and 10 minutes from Dundrum or Enniskerry Villages why not take our private shuttle bus which will collect you from an array of Dublin City or County Hotels operated by (01 8221122) for €5 each way.

Hooley Nights

For a real treat one should experience the world famous show known as the Johnnie Fox’s HOOLEY night which includes the esteemed Johnnie Fox’s troop of Irish dancers, live traditional Irish music, a full 4 course evening meal and plenty of great craic….. at only €49.95 per person. • • • •


Johnnie Fox’s Pub l Glencullen l Co. Dublin

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1,000 New Jobs for Ireland, we’re almost there ... What have DAA, Aer Lingus & Shannon Airport Authority all got in common?

Domhnaill’s Story has made a difference. Ireland’s economic recovery has been gathering pace over the past few years and the majority of people I meet in business want to play their part – I am no different.”

They all helped bring new jobs to Ireland. We want to say thank you on behalf of the people of Ireland. Their support means almost 1,000 families in communities across Ireland have a bright future. As you boarded your flight, you may have noticed ConnectIreland teams at Dublin, Cork and Shannon airports. This simply would not be possible were it not for DAA, whose unwavering support helps us reach out to our people and ask them “Do you know an expanding company?” As many as 300 people per week become connectors through this DAA & Shannon Airport Authority assistance. Aer Lingus has always been a fantastic ambassador for Ireland. Cabin Crew kindly make a ConnectIreland announcement on many of their flights and we are very grateful to them for helping to attract companies and jobs to Ireland.

“I read about ConnectIreland shortly after it was established in a newspaper article announcing the creation of a number of new jobs which originated from a ‘connector’. The following week I met with Mike Culhane, the CEO at Pepper Australia, who was planning expansion into Europe. Domhnaill O’Sullivan’s conversation with an overseas investor has resulted in 100 new jobs for Shannon and Dublin, a life-changing connection which has transformed the lives of the new employees, their families and wider communities in the West of Ireland. “The ConnectIreland concept is simple and it works. All I did was pass on some information to an investor, but I’m delighted that it

“With his approval I got in touch with ConnectIreland, gave them a background on Pepper and their vision together with Mike’s contact details. ConnectIreland got in immediate contact with him and within 48 hours, they were meeting in Dublin and it just took off from there”. “The speed at which ConnectIreland reacted was efficient and effective, and I know

that Pepper were grateful for the support and advice they received from the ConnectIreland team who also worked closely with IDA Ireland which facilitated this expansion. It was a very simple process. “The information campaigns at Dublin, Cork and Shannon airports are impressive, and a very effective way to reach out to a captive, mobile and global audience. I’m delighted things worked out for Pepper and I would have no hesitation in recommending ConnectIreland as a platform for people to encourage more international investors to choose Ireland. In fact, I would encourage it.” Pepper Asset Servicing has begun recruiting and the company is already making a massive difference in the mid-West region. And as for Domhnaill, he’s encouraging others to have similar conversations, log on, join in and play their part.

WHY IRELAND IS WORLD CLASS The Irish economy will grow by 2.7% in 2015, according to the IMF, the highest rate in the EU. Over half our population is under 35, giving us the youngest and most flexible workforce in Europe.




Ireland is the only Englishspeaking country in the Eurozone. “You want to have a common language if you’re setting up operations in Europe.” Forbes

Ireland has one of the best-educated workforces in the world — 50% of Irish employees have a university degree, compared to an EU average of 29%

Ireland has one of the lowest corporate tax rates in Europe at 12.5%. There is also a 25% tax credit for research and development costs


Looking for somewhere to do business in Europe? Look no further


to do






Log on to and register as a connector

Introduce us to an Internationally Expanding Company

Once the company is up and running, you receive â‚Ź1,500 for each job created (min of 3 jobs, max 100)

ConnectIreland, delivering the Succeed in Ireland initiative in association with the IDA

For more log on to



They’re funky, friendly and off the tourist track: Tony Clayton-Lea explores some of New York’s eclectic neighbourhoods and enjoys close encounters with the locals. Photographs by Richard Gilligan.

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Main attraction – Brooklyn, opposite, is a magnet for hipsters, among them boys from the ’hood Akito Nara and Banri Aoki, this page.


o there I am in Williamsburg, Brooklyn – currently one of the hippest places on Planet Earth – and I politely flag down a taxicab to take me back to my hotel in Manhattan. At exactly the same moment as I open the lefthand side passenger door and climb in, someone opens the right-hand side passenger door and does the same. We plonk ourselves down at precisely the same time, look at each other and say to the driver, also at the same time: “Upper West Side!” We laugh in relief – no verbal scuffles, no awkward silences. She’s a musician (of course). I’m an outof-towner (obviously). “Where are you from?” she asks. “Ireland,” I say. “Wow,” she responds. A threesecond pause. She looks right at me. “Do you know Glen Hansard?” The chances of this happening outside of a movie starring, say,


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Colin Farrell and Amy Adams, are remote, but my taxicab friend sheds, perhaps, more light on what living in New York neighbourhoods is like than anything you might see on the small or large screen. The musician tells me her life story, pretty much – a representative tale of ambitions thwarted, achieved and yet to come. From somewhere out Midwest, my new best friend has been living in New York for more than ten years, and says more than once

Above, curd heaven at Bedford Cheese Shop in Brooklyn. Left, our king of New York, Tony Clayton-Lea, and below, street poet Zachary T Merritt.

– especially with regard to For more info on what to do in and around NYC designed to get visitors its Neighbourhood x Neighbourhood campaign, NYC – visit off the beaten track and into the five boroughs of Travel Management, the neighborhoods, or contact Dublin-based Aereps 9604; official representative office of NYC & Co (01 631



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that she loves the city because it’s community-driven. “It may be larger in scale than what you’re used to in Ireland,” she explains with a background of sirens, children playing in parks and hip-hop bangers reverberating out of cars, “but it’s based, really, on groups of people aiming to get on with each other, helping each other out. Like, you know, neighbours?” There are five boroughs in New York City: The Bronx, Brooklyn, Manhattan, Queens and Staten Island, and each of them is so big BUDGET Situated in the (and so populated) that just when emerging Long Island City you think you’ve got them pinned neighbourhood, the smart down, something closes and is Z NYC Hotel combines Jazz replaced by something opening. Age flourishes with Modernist There’s another reason, of course, industrialism. A convenient why the full story can never truly be base, it’s right beside a thriving told, and that’s to do with New York artistic community, yet less City’s ever-changing flow of energy. than ten minutes away from In other words, what comes into Manhattan by taxi (and one fashion (in even the loosest sense of stop from Manhattan via the that word) can just as easily go out. subway). Rooms from $220. And that includes neighbourhoods. (11-01 43rd Avenue, +1 212 319 For example, in the late 1970s, West 7000; 57th Street, between Fifth and Sixth Avenues (right in the centre of Manhattan), was chockablock with construction sites, discount clothes shops and skateboarders. Now? It’s a glamorous enclave of pricey hotels and boutiques. Although quite different in demographics and histories, NYC neighbourhoods have, not without reason, become branded through popular culture – notably, cinema and television. All have addresses we recognise, trends we follow (although some of us swear blind we don’t) and all have that aforementioned sense of community that we’re always surprised to hear The New York yellow taxicab – invented by about. It is, perhaps, John Daniel Hertz in Chicago in 1915. a truism to state

Stay at ...

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LUXURY In Midtown Manhattan, London NYC Hotel oozes glamorous boutique style. As one of Manhattan’s tallest hotels at 590ft, its wow-factor rooms afford dizzying, dazzling views of Central Park. The Irish connection? Its rooms were designed by the late interior designer David Collins. Rooms from $399. (151 West 54th Street, +1 212 307 5000;


MID PRICE If you’re planning on staying longer than two nights, then Hotel Beacon is a perfect home-from-home. Each room has a kitchenette, it’s directly opposite Fairway Market, one of the best delis in NYC, right beside the famed Beacon Theatre, and minutes from Central Park. Rooms from $195 in low season to $295 in high. (2130 Broadway at 75th Street, +1 212 787 1100;



that when artists and entrepreneurs kickstart In operation since 1904, the creative and social New York subway is the largest development, then rapid transit system in the world, real estate agents often with more than 460 stations and 1,350 make the home run. kilometres of track. Approximately This is nowhere 40 per cent of the system is above more obvious than in ground and, unlike most major Manhattan’s Upper subway systems, it runs 24 West Side. Located hours a day. between Central Park and the Hudson River, and between West 59th and West 110th Streets, this is primarily a residential area that has a justifiable reputation as home to NYC’s cultural and intellectual citizens. No matter where you are based here (I stayed at the Beacon Hotel – see previous page), you won’t lack places to see and things to do. Central BUDGET You gotta pop into a diner, Park (, of course, Left, Katherine Paplos propping is here, and even if you feel you don’t cha? Located in Long Island up the counter at don’t have time to visit, you really City, Queens, Bel-Aire Diner (31-91 Bel-Aire Diner in should, as it is the place for that 21st Street, Astoria, +1 718 721 3160; Queens. Below, popular New York sport – people is a rare find – a Café Lalo on watching. Dotted along Broadway true diner. You know – the kind of Manhattan’s Upper West and Amsterdam Avenue (and place you’d see in a movie. Friendly Side – prepare their interconnecting streets) are staff, no hints of nostalgic recreation, to dither at more delis, shops, cafés, bars and burgers’n’fries done just-so, and a menu the choice of restaurants than you could ever visit that’s heavy to pick up but light on price. 29 flavours of cheesecake. in a few days. My favourites include

Eat at ...

MID PRICE So typically Upper West Side New York that it should be in a Woody Allen movie, Café Lalo (201 West 83rd Street, +1 212 496 6031; is a bright spot with smart servers, an unobtrusive jazz trio playing Coltrane, Davis and standards, and a very affordable menu of food (which includes 29 flavours of cheesecake – yikes!) and drinks. I had a New York state-of-mind glass of Sancerre while reading Donal Ryan’s The Spinning Heart, and, if the jetlag hadn’t kicked in, I could happily have stayed there until closing time.

LUXURY MAZE by Gordon Ramsay (London NYC Hotel, 151 West 54th Street, +1 212 468 8889; thelondonnyc. com) is a celeb-chef branded restaurant that breathes calm and sophistication amidst the hustle of Midtown Manhattan and Times Square (which is a mere four blocks away). Ramsay has an elegant winner here, with Frenchinfluenced small plates complemented by subtle Asian flavours.

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mid-price restaurant Fred’s (476 Amsterdam Avenue at 83rd Street, +1 212 579 3076; fredsnyc. com), which, in keeping with neighbourhood sensibilities, is dogfriendly; the Children’s Museum of Manhattan (The Tisch Building, 212 West 83rd Street, +1 212 721 1223;, which is, quite deceptively, a 2,600-square-metre learning facility that’s ideal for children to while away an hour or two. The hippest eatery, is RedFarm (2170 Broadway, between 76th and 77th Streets, +1 212 724 9700;, which delivers greenmarket appreciation of contemporary and innovative Chinese food. Culture vultures are well catered for, too, with the nearby Lincoln Center (Lincoln Center Plaza, +1 212 875 5000; housing a dozen or so performing arts companies (including the Metropolitan Opera and the Juilliard School of Music) in a modern landmark building. Over in Queens, meanwhile, is Long Island City, which is going through a rapid phase of gentrification. LIC certainly needed it. The city (and it was once just

Where will you go in yours?

Dubarry Flagship Store, 35 College Green, Dublin 2 Dubarry Flagship Store, 34 Duke of York Square, Kings Road, Chelsea, London SW3 4LY


Don’t miss ...


BOOKS Opposite the Beacon Hotel, 2130 Broadway at 75th Street, you’ll see trader after trader selling books, books, glorious books for ridiculously low prices. Pick up a well-thumbed copy of that classic sci-fi novel you’ve always wanted to read for about $2.


FOODIE If you love authenticity as much as atmosphere, then make a beeline to Arthur’s Avenue (Arthur Avenue & East 187th Street, Bronx; Check out the street’s best-loved attraction, the Retail Market, an indoor “Little Italy” bazaar that mixes and matches sausage makers, restaurants, pastry shops, butchers, pasta-makers, bread stores, gourmet delicatessens, fish markets and gourmet coffee shops. With accents straight from The Sopranos.


TIMES SQUARE Love or hate it (and we know of some New Yorkers who freely admit to the latter), there is absolutely nothing on Earth like the heartthumping, frantic and frenetic pace of life in Times Square. We love it.


STREET ART Fans of street art will have a field day in New York – in every neighbourhood you’ll find surprises around most corners. In side streets off Bronx’s Arthur Avenue, for example, we accidentally came across sections of Inside Out, a large-scale, participatory international art project devised by the as-yet unidentified French “photograffeur”, JR.


SHOPPING Out Williamsburg way is Tiger Blanket Records & Vintage Boutique (421 Graham Avenue, between Frost & Withers Streets, +1 520 977 6913; Owned by rock singer and record label chief Emmy Wildwood, this petite store sells killer vintage (T-shirts, motorcycle jackets, gowns, etc) as well as contemporary craftwork by local designers.

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that until the late 1800s, when it surrendered its independence in order to be integrated into the so-called City of Greater New York) was once a thriving home to many factories but, as is the way of such things, economies plummeted and people drifted off for work elsewhere. Many of the unused buildings have been (and continue to be) converted into art spaces, galleries and television studios, which lend the large area a livedin, work-in-progress atmosphere. However, there is certainly no shortage of amenities for the visitor. Check out the very reasonable Colombian restaurant (by day) and salsa bar (by night), El Basurero (32-17 Steinway Street, Astoria, +1 718 545 7077); contemporary art gallery Space Womb (57 Stanton Street, +1 917 444 2667; and YELLOW Sweetleaf (10-93 Jackson CAB YARN Avenue, +1 917 832 Why are all NYC taxicabs 6726;, a yellow? It’s because American coffee/espresso bar that businessman John Daniel Hertz (yes, fuses rustic chic and that Hertz) once read a marketing study freshly baked pastries that claimed yellow was the easiest with a sacrosanct-like colour for the eye to see. He founded approach to savouring the Chicago-based Yellow Cab good coffee. Company in 1915, which was I’d love to stay for subsequently franchised more but The Bronx is throughout the US. calling. First things first: with almost 1.5 million people living on a 109-square-kilometre slice of land, this baby is big. Named after Jonas Bronck, who established the first settlement as part of the New Netherland colony in 1639, the area has witnessed major development over the past 25 years, and it is now happily bearing the fruits of such revitalisation. Because of its size, it’s unlikely you’ll cover much ground on foot but, if you have a good pair of shoes and a map (or a taxicab budget), Opposite, then you’ve got to see Arthur’s hanging out in Avenue (Arthur Avenue & East Williamsburg. 187th Street; arthuravenuebronx. Above, subway com – see opposite), which is a busker Mount Moon belts out throwback to the Little Italy days a tune, and left, of sharp suits, bada-bing lingo and Brooklyn Clock opera music playing as you eat Tower overlooks wholesome comfort food. Other the iconic Brooklyn Bridge. sights in The Bronx include Yankee JULY 2014

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Smooth operator

Stadium (One East 161st Street, South Bronx; newyork.yankees., home of the baseball team; Bronx Zoo (2300 Southern Boulevard;, and the Edgar Allan Poe Cottage (Kingsbridge Road and Grand Concourse; bronxhistoricalsociety. org), the writer’s only house open to the public in NYC. And so to Brooklyn – or, more specifically, Williamsburg. Twenty years ago, you’d have been hard pressed to find somewhere decent to eat amidst cheap rental properties and boarded-up studios. But for the past decade or so, Williamsburg is Hipsville incarnate – a hub for indie rock music, and art of every persuasion. In parallel, retail and housing space has developed rapidly. Incomparable to any other NYC neighbourhood, it’s all skinny jeans, chin stubble and the occasional celeb. And yet there’s something rather inspiring about the late teens and 20-somethings doing 78 |

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All Aer Lingus flights arriving to and departing from New York’s JFK Airport operate from Terminal 5. While officially referred to as JetBlue’s T5 (Terminal 5), Aer Lingus has its own dedicated area within the terminal, which allows for smooth check-in, baggage handling and seamless connections to further destinations in the US, Barbados, the Dominican Republic and Puerto Rico. The minimum connection time from Dublin/ Shannon arrivals to connecting JetBlue flights is approximately one hour. Customers travelling to Ireland, meanwhile, will experience JetBlue connections as fast as 40 minutes.

their respective things, even if it’s as mildly surprising as banging makeshift drums in the street or tapping out poetry on an old typewriter. The last time I checked, there was nothing wrong with living your dreams and harming no one in the process. Besides all of this, there’s so much to see and do here. Bedford Avenue is the spine, with chilled bookshops such as Spoonbill & Sugartown (218 Bedford Avenue, +1 718 387 7322;, cool coffee shops such as Verb Café (218 Bedford Avenue, +1 718 599 0977), which, in a casual display of international diplomatic relations, was playing Thin Lizzy as we

stepped in; and the funky Bedford Cheese Shop (229 Bedford Avenue; +1 718 599 7588; bedfordcheeseshop. com), which focuses, interestingly, on education-based customer service – and there isn’t much of that around these days. You’ll find what you’re looking for in Williamsburg, no doubt – it’s as funky, trendy, on-point, relaxed, cool and neighbour-friendly as it gets. There’s never a problem flagging down a taxicab, either. Which is, I think, where we came in. Follow Tony @ TonyClaytonLea AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO NEW YORK TWICE DAILY, AND FROM SHANNON SIX TIMES WEEKLY.


WHALEof a time

Wildlife encounters, volcanic landscapes, distinctive wines and a world-class waterpark are just some of Tenerife's surprises Pól Ó Conghaile discovers on the largest of the Canary Islands. Photographs by Anthony Woods.

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Just out of Los Gigantes, cetacean lovers aboard MarĂ­tima Acantilades get lucky.

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he pilot whales were so close, I could have patted them on the head. That was an urge best resisted, of course. The curvy mother and baby cruising so effortlessly and obligingly beside our boat was one thing, but the watchful adult male swimming alongside them was


another. He’d crunch me like a cracker. We were a mile or two off the shores of southern Tenerife. Less than half-an-hour earlier, I’d boarded a whale-watching boat (maritimaacantilados. com) out of Los Gigantes, a pretty resort named Gigan the hulking cliffs punching for th out of the Atlantic nearby. up ou We’d barely gone beyond the cliffs – at 500 metres high, they cliff were towering above us like a subtropical Slieve League – subt when a pod of short-finned wh pilot whales was clocked. pilo The stretch of water between Los Gigantes and the island of Lo

Top, a fin-tastic sight – watchers catch a glimpse of a trio of dolphins. Above, the ancient mariner himself, Pól Ó Conghaile, gets some beachtime. And below, penguins at Loro Park.

La Gomera is a sweet sp for cetaceans, with spot co cold-water currents, su succulent giant squid swimming sw about in the deep and preservation policies poli keeping populations popu plump and healthy. Within minutes, minu it was like we were watching them in a private pool. I’ve made several whale-watching attempts over the years, in waters as far apart as Ireland and New Zealand, but most have thrown up frustrating no-shows or the oddly underwhelming sight of dark humps in the distance. But this was different. The whales ghosted from port to starboard, appearing slick

ny hol, tobacco, perfumes and ma Low taxes in Tenerife mean alco at significantly lower prices than other products are available at s tion tric that the usual duty-free res home. Bear in mind, however, ught back into Ireland. apply as regards any goods bro

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The Price by Arthur Miller

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and shiny when the sun was to our backs; transformed into slinking silhouettes when it was in our face. When they dove, we could still see them several metres underwater. When they surfaced, the breaches were close enough to hear the air being sucked into their blowholes, and to see the flaps of skin close over them before they ducked down again. For all the acrobatics of the Killer Whales performing in Loro Parque (; €33/€22) further north, there was something infinitely purer and more rewarding about watching these animals in their natural element. “This is as close as they get!” our guide shouted, swapping his studied cool for the breathless enthusiasm of a seven-year-old. “It doesn’t get better than this!” I’d come to Tenerife, the biggest of the Canary Islands, expecting busy beaches, buzzing resorts and English breakfasts. I got them, of course. But the surprises came thick and fast, too. When the time came to leave our pod of whales, we motored towards the cliffs, picking out a sea eagle’s nest in the rock face. We pulled up at a jetty in a cove lined with pitch-black basalt boulders. Scuttling across one of them was a crab so ridiculously colourful it could have been designed by Joan Miró. Nearby, a pair of snorkellers bobbed about in the choppiness, watching shoals of silvery bream float over dark rock formations underwater. Tenerife, like all seven of the inhabited Canary Islands, is volcanic 84 |

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Above, submarine views at Loro Park and, right, Francisco Luis and Evan Manuel Gonzalez of Marítima Acantilades's whalewatch tours.

Stay at ...

SCENIC The Parador Hotel Canadas del Teide (La Orotava; +34 922 386 415; is in Mount Teide’s nature reserve, though its invitation to “spend the night in the crater of an extinct volcano” is not strictly true – Mount Teide is in fact dormant, last having erupted in 1909. Wonderful views, Canarian cuisine and a heated pool make up for the lack of a beach, and it’s a great base for hiking. Doubles from €122.

CHARMING Puerto de la Cruz, in the north, is Tenerife’s most authentic town and Hotel Monopol (Calle Quintana 15, +34 922 384 611; is its most authentic hotel. The three-star establishment dates back to the island’s pre-package holiday days – it has been run by the same family for more than 75 years – and the old-world charm is maintained with fresh flowers and a plant-strewn atrium ringed with hand-carved verandas. Doubles from €52.

FAMILY The Iberostar Anthelia (Londres 15, Costa Adeje; +34 922 713 335; iberostar. com) is one of Tenerife’s top five-star resorts, a palatial facility fronting onto Playa de Fanabe. Some 365 rooms are organised into blocks named after operas (including Salome, a hotel within a hotel whose 24 rooms and private pool would suit grandparents travelling with families), and it runs a kids club during school holidays. Rooms from around €198 per night.

Enjoy the Waterford Crystal Factory Experience. Book your tour online today.

To book your factory tour visit the largest collection of Waterford Crystal in the world or phone +353 (0)51 317000


Eat at … CHIC For a touch of South Beach in Tenerife, try Papagayo Beach Club (Playa de las Americas; +34 922 788 916; The chill-out restaurant and cocktail bar sets white leather couches against the black sands of Playa de la Troya, and dishes up a stylish mix of Mediterranean and international cuisine (think grilled sea bass with Canarian potatoes), strong cocktails and beach party vibes after sunset. Book ahead to secure a sea view. TRADITIONAL Rincon del Puerto (Plaza del Charco, +34 922 384 207) is the kind of nook you dream about stumbling across on holidays – an 18thcentury courtyard stashed away in the middle of Puerto de la Cruz. There are three restaurants to choose from, all serving Canarian food – with Bar Louis specialising in tapas, and El Balcon doing a good “old clothes” (a mix of chicken, potatoes, chickpeas and herbs with a curried kick).

in origin. Sitting off the African coast some 1,500 kilometres south of Spain, the archipelago has taken shape over millions of years of seismic spewing and belching (an ongoing process, as the 2011 eruption off El Hierro demonstrated). Unlike its underwater life, that means much of the landscape is spectacularly arid. Driving north from Los Gigantes towards Mount Teide National Park, an almost Martian tinge comes over the rocks and scrub. Mount Teide itself rises 3,178 metres out of the desert to form the highest

The high life – the cable car ride swoops down from Mount Teide; below, Tomas Pacheco displays the wonders of Rincon del Puerto.

point in Spain. It’s the tallest volcanic cone in the world outside Hawaii. What fascinates me more than the stats, however, is the way Tenerife’s violent origins are stitched into every facet of life on the island. The grinding down of basalt has left many beaches with exotic black sand, for example. Tubes such as the 17-kilometre Cueva del Viento snake beneath

it Mount Teide by t minutes to summ It may take just eigh Spain’s territories ghest point in all of hi e th is is th t bu . On a clear cable car, ird-tallest volcano th ’s rld wo e th s, re and, at 3,178 met le from its peak. ry Islands are visib na Ca r he ot l ra ve day, se 86 |

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CHOCK-FULL Sprawling along on its own stretch of coastline (including a private beach accessed by funicular), the big pink birthday cake that is the Abama Golf & Spa Resort (Guía de Isora; +34 922 126 000; is worth a look. El Mirador is the pick of its ten restaurants, offering snapfresh seafood and excellently crispy croquettes under a thatched roof. Look out for La Gomera in the distance.

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Mountain high – the peak of Mount Teide, (almost) the highest volcanic cone in the world.

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your feet. Volcanic rocks spot the architecture over your head. When you quaff a glass of local wine, you’re soaking up volcanic influences in the aromas and tones. During the Fuegos del Risco, a festival held every five years in Garachico (the next one is in 2015), balls of fire are hurled down the mountainside, evoking an eruption that took place in 1706. Despite its fiery formation, of course, Tenerife’s temperatures are

just like the rest of the Canaries, averaging a blissful 22oC yearround. That makes it not only a peachy, winter sun destination, but surprisingly good for golf, biking and walking twelve months of the year. Recently, Tenerife launched several new volcanic trails, focusing on distinct areas such as the Ancient Territory (Garachico to Puerto del Santiago) and the Great Valleys, marked by two great depressions forming the Orotava

and Güímar valleys. Another way to get under the skin of the island, as it were, is to undertake the elaborate ecoexperience put together by Sandos Resort at San Blas (; €15). An interactive museum and “historical tunnel” here take visitors through the formation of the Canary Islands (complete with dramatic sound effects and floors shaking beneath your feet), before heading out for a 60-minute guided walk

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Fruit of the vines ... and volcanoes “O knight thou lackest a cup of canary: when did I see thee so put down?” So asks Sir Toby Belch in Twelfth Night. Though Shakespeare may have been familiar with Canarian wines, however, 21st-century visitors are often surprised to find Tenerife’s arid and angry landscape boasts the largest wineproducing area in the Canaries. The trade winds, moderate temperatures and volcanic influences in the soil are all responsible for the unique flavours, aromas and textures of the island’s wines, and you’ll find several wineries (bodegas) to explore along Tenerife’s Ruta del Vino ( The wine route passes through the Tacoronte-Acentejo and Orotava Valley Designation of Origin (DO) areas, and can be followed independently or as part of a guided tour. TacoronteAcentejo in particular is noted for its young, fruity and fragrant reds, though don’t let them sneak up on you.

To the north of the island, the capital Puerto de la Cruz boasts a series of bathing spots fashioned from the rock, left, while, top, its lush valleys reveal intriguing structures such as Piedra de la Rosa formed by cooling lava.

through San Blas ravine. As with Ireland’s Burren or Australia’s Red Centre, the more you look at this hostile landscape, the more you see. There are scuttling lizards, flitting birds, hardy plants and stories of Guanches, the primitive islanders who had the run of the place until they were “conquered” by Castilians 90 |

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in 1496. Before their subjugation, these early settlers proved remarkably adept at getting the most out of a harsh landscape, right down to using the sap of the balsam spurge as chewing gum. There’s an element of living history to the walking tour too, with “ghosts” emerging from time to time to illustrate old island

lifestyles – an agricultural worker picking tomatoes here, or a Guanche pouring water into the ground in an effort to please his gods there. “He’ll ask for a bit of rain,” our guide quips. “I hope it’s not going to come.” She needn’t worry. Ravines or “barrancos” like this slice through hillsides all over Tenerife, remembering the rivers that once braided the island. Today, rainfall is exceedingly rare – one reason, perhaps, that Raquel Welch slipped into a Guanche-style goatskin bikini when filming One Million Years BC here in 1967. Clash of the Titans and Fast & Furious 6 are more recent movies to have brought this stunning landscape onto the silver screen.


Irish Summer .

Sunny strolls on the Cliffs of Moher. A tall glass of the black stuff after a long day of hiking and biking. Smiling locals greeting you with a pint and a story. Unpredictable weather. We’re with you on that last one. One minute you’re wandering down Grafton Street, ice cream cone in hand (with a BIG flake) working on your sunburn when suddenly out of nowhere the heavens open. The other tourists run panicked and drenched into nearby shops but you, you keep on walking, smoothly removing your rain jacket from its hiding place in your backpack. You run your arms through those perfectly waterproofed sleeves, zipping and walking, all in one swift motion, not one bit of lovely ice cream out of place. But we’re not all Irish Summer pros are we? That’s why we’re here, sitting just off Grafton street, saving summers since 1976.

chatham street, dublin 2



Not all the island is parched and barren. The north, in particular, could be on an entirely different continent, with its tapestry of valleys, laurel forests and a capital that has preserved its authenticity in the face of mass tourism – Puerto de la Cruz. Holidaymakers do stay in Puerto but it’s a world away from the bright-lights and beer-chugging of resorts like Playa de las Americas. Lago Martiánez (+34 922 385 955), a meandering series of seaside swimming pools designed by César Manrique, sits just yards from white surf thundering against the rocks offshore. At a harbourside market,

a woman in Canarian costume offers taster cubes of goat’s cheese. Old men slip into the sea using even older ladders. You might spot locals sipping cortado (espresso “cut” with hot milk) under an awning, hear hymns seeping out of a whitewashed church, or catch the scent of hibiscus in the Monopol ol Hotel.

Left, co cortado coffee, above righ right, Siam Park, right, music musicians jamming in Puer Puerto del Cruz.

Phew. After all that real life, I was ready for a full-on dose of commercialism. And nothing delivers that quite like Siam Park (; €33/€22) – a sprawling, Thai-themed waterpark in southern Tenerife. This brilliant behemoth boasts a 12.5-millionlitre wave pool, white sand imported from Portugal, VIP cabins with Jacuzzis and ... oh yes, some rather fantastic waterslides. A few tips? Wear sunscreen, flipflops (the paths are burning hot for bare feet) and invest in a fast-pass (at €15, you can skip the queues all day long). Siam Park is a slick, spotless and safely-run operation with a fab mix of kiddie slides, gentler runs and tube rides such as Kinnaree and The Dragon that will have you laughing like hyena. The highlight? Try the Tower of Power, a vertical drop from 76 metres that delivers a bonecrunching sense of Zero-G before shooting you through a shark tank (no, seriously). After a 45-minute queue, I slipped into the slide, crossed my arms like I was being laid out for burial ... I barely had time to blurt out the bluest of expletives before being spat at 80kmph into a tube through the shark th tank, and out into ta the th exit pool below. Everything went by in Ev a blur, and I think my internal organs landed in about two seconds ab after af I did. It was an amazing, exhilarating am and petrifying adrenaline rush. After seeing the pilot whales in their element, I was back in mine. Follow Pól @poloconghaile



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Knockabbey Castle & Gardens, Louth, Co. Louth Coldwell Banker Previews Ireland present this historic castle set in 12.1 ha (c.30 acres). Knockabbey Castle is not only a welcoming family home but offers tremendous commercial potential for tourist activities, such as a boutique hotel, function venue, retreat or equestrian centre (SPP). The castle originally built in 1399 has been extended and rebuilt throughout the centuries. The present owner has invested considerably in restoring the house and gardens to the highest standards. Knockabbey Castle is famous for it historic gardens dating back over 1000 years and is now recognised as one of the great Irish gardens and home to many rare species of trees and plants.

For more information or to arrange a viewing please call 01 4110012 or email Offices in Dublin and Cork.


Your opportunity to own your own castle only one hour from Dublin.


J’adore d’ Azur Good weather. Good food. Good wine – and great company. Lucy White finds Nice a trés bon spot for a girls’ getaway. Photographs by Carina Okula.

Nice to see you, to see you nice! Sun worshippers line the pebbled “Bay of Angels” to a backdrop of sorbet-coloured, Belle Époque architecture.

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irst impressions matter and Nice does not disappoint. We literally coo our way along the Promenade des Anglais (“the walkway of the English”, some five kilometres of prime seafront) in a cab from Nice airport. It looks exactly as we’d hoped: pink, yellow and ochrecoloured Belle Époque buildings, and palm-fringed esplanade. This is where Picasso, Matisse, Somerset Maugham and Irish Modernist Eileen Gray once moved and shaked, where, from the 18th century onwards, British and Russian aristocrats went to play – and recuperate – with colonies “of pale and listless English women and listless sons of nobility near death” embracing the fashion for climatotherapy, noted French historian Paul Gonnet. Surprisingly, Nice also doffs its beret to a certain Irishman. Last summer, Bono – who owns a beachfront villa in nearby Eze, see page 104 – unveiled a plaque dedicated to none other than James Joyce on the façade of the Hotel Suisse, where the writer spent a month working on his final novel, Finnegans Wake, in 1922. In fairness, the book took 17 years to finish and, with Joyce having also lived in Paris, Trieste, Rome and Zurich, one wonders where he didn’t write it. But the world loves a storyteller, especially an Irish one, and Joyce deserves to be honoured here, however incongruous his “snotgreen sea” and “nutty gizzards” are to the cerulean Cote d’Azur.


Girls on tour – left, a group selfie on a daytrip to Eze. Here, some of the more modest boats harboured in the Port of Nice.

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onveniently set in the heart of the city, around the corner from Trinity College, Grafton Street and the Molly Malone Statue, O’Neill’s is one of Dublin’s most famous and historic pubs. Trade has flourished here uninterrupted for over 300 years.

Our fully-refurbished Roof-Top Beer Garden & Smoking Area

When you pay us a visit you will receive a warm, friendly welcome and you can enjoy its ageless character, numerous alcoves, snugs, nooks and crannies. To make your visit as enjoyable as possible we offer you ... ●

Extensive Irish Food Menu and Famous Carvery serving only the finest Irish Meat, Fish and Vegetables. In fact, Lonely Planet rate us as one of the Top 5 Places to find ´Real Irish food in Dublin´

Traditional Irish Music 7 nights-a-week

Roof-Top Beer Garden and Smoking Area

Largest selection of local Irish Craft Beers on draught in Ireland

Pour Your Own Pint tables

Free Wi-Fi to all our Customers

The perfect place to enjoy the World Cup 2014 on our numerous HD and 3D Screens

Our ‘Really Good’ Full Irish Breakfast can’t be beaten for quality and value. 11 items plus tea/coffee and toast, as shown below.

‘Really Good’ Full Irish Breakfast only


Available Mon-Fri, 8am-11.30am

M.J. O’Neill Suffolk Street, Dublin 2 Tel. 01 679 3656

Mon-Thurs: 8.00am-11.30pm Fri: 8.00am-12.30am Sat: 8.00am-12.30am Sun: 8.00am-11.00pm SatNav 53.343958, -6.260796

“Top 5 places to find Real Irish Food in Dublin”

2013 Les Routiers Pub of The Year


Sleep at … ARTY Hotel Windsor rocks an edgy Berlin vibe that’s unusual to traditionalist Nice. No guest room is the same, each one decorated by an artist – some more tired looking than others, but it’s a great value option being just a five-minute walk from the Promenade. The leafy, private garden, where breakfast is served is fantastic, and a Marilyn Monroe bar winningly kooky. Rooms from €87. (11 Rue Dalpozzo, +33 493 885 935; CHARMING Homely and comfortable, the 25-room Belle Époque-era Le Petit Palais de Nice is on a hill in the residential area of Cimiez, some ten minutes’ walk from the centre. We swooned at our room’s panoramic sea view, the bijou palm-fringed swimming pool and the al fresco buffet breakfast set to a soundtrack of tinkling fountain. Rooms from €130. (17 Avenue Émile Bieckert, +33 493 621 911; SPLURGE Hôtel La Pérouse is built into a rock face and boasts spectacular views from one end of the Baie des Anges – ironically, since it was once a prison. But there’s nothing at all austere about this luxurious, 56-room hotel whose garden is peppered with lemon trees and flora, and boasts a swimming pool cut into the cliff. Rooms from €315, including breakfast. (11 Quai Rauba Capeu, +33 493 623 463;

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Windows don’t get much more photogenic than here, where original shutters frame potted plants, opposite. Below, parasols on the pebble beach and, right, the Promenade du Paillon’s “water mirror”. Bottom, Les Distilleries Ideales on Rue de la Prefecture is the perfect (sun) spot to take an apéritif.

While Nice’s ghosts linger in its Baroque churches, its fin-desiècle apartments and Italian-style colonnades, it’s not a city stuck in the past. The Promenade du Paillon, which opened last year, is an urban parkway spanning 1.2 kilometres and combines traditional recreation with cutting-edge technology. Here, stride across its “water mirror” walkway, a reflective plain of eau, where once laundresses laid out clothes to dry – the former river was too feeble to wash in, so was eventually covered over in 1867. Now, it’s a class A attraction; a “dancing fountain” of choreographed water jets. It’s a magnet for kids (there are also designated children’s zones, as well as playful sculptures), although the “Plateau of Mist” – a basin of steam – is a novelty too far for this thirtysomething trio already fighting the frizz in the sizzling soleil. Relaxed and relaxing, Nice is the ideal backdrop to my first girls’ holiday in nearly a decade. I’ve been one half of a couple for more than seven years so the only sisterhood breaks have been hen weekends, which are, naturellement, different beasts entirely. A few months earlier we three like-minded mademoiselles (cough) decided to pack our “best

clothes” – sample preparatory text: “What are you guys bringing? Fancy or casual or both and how fancy would you go?” – to a destination more renowned for old-world glamour than its bar crawls and pink, fluffy handcuffs. Furthermore, this time there’d be no running to the departure gate because himself refuses to arrive at the airport two hours early. There would be more wine bars, less sports bars; more cocktail hour, less happy hour; more impromptu singalongs, less hotel telly; and, oh darn – one bathroom for three girls. It takes us around 20 minutes of cooing to get from the airport to our digs: The Hotel Windsor (see opposite), designed under the tutelage of Gustave Eiffel. Inside, it’s an anomaly – heritage juxtaposed with contemporary art splashed across its 29 rooms. Much to our amusement, ours is a “Wi Seduction Room”, the allurement being that it overlooks the garden. Conceptualised by François Morellet in 1998 and entitled “Le Rayon de Sommeil” (“sleep beam!” says Dutch assistant manager, Jeroen Elkhuizan, helpfully), it’s sanatorium-white but for a bolt of bright yellow darting floor to JULY 2014

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Coastal cooking ... LIQUID LUNCH Specialising in rare vintages, Les Compagnons de la Grappe nonetheless has wine for every budget – glasses start at around €3. We sat on the tables outside, peoplewatching while savouring beautiful French vins and complimentary hors d’oeuvres. (2 Rue Catherine Segurane, Place Garibaldi, +33 493 556 924; CHIC Le Sejour Café may look like a cool person’s living room, with its bookshelves, framed artwork and flowers, but it’s no couch potato when it comes to artful and creative cuisine. Moreover, the service is impeccable. Don’t be fooled by the informal vibe though – one can easily blow €70 a head here on three courses and a bottle of wine. (11 Rue Grimaldi, +33 493 273 784; QUIRKY As far as gay districts go, Rue Bonaparte is, as its namesake suggests, petit. Pinxcho is arguably its best eatery and is, handily, beside the mad-busy Gossip bar. A chalkboard pronouncing inventive plat du jour is delivered to your table, with mains averaging €20 – we enjoyed the sea bass with vanilla butter. (7 Rue Bonaparte, +33 493 898 183;

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Above, JeanFrançois of Chez Acchiardo, a family-run bistro started by his greatgrandmother in 1927. Below, Cours Saleya.

ceiling. Jeroen shows us a few other rooms, each one completely different – some with open-plan bathrooms. Thankfully not ours. We’re close, but not ménage à trois close. The one bathroom/three girls conundrum proves the biggest challenge while getting ready to visit the iconic Hôtel Negresco (37 Promenade des Anglais, +33 493 166 400; for drinks. By sheer fluke, our best glad rags happen to be jumpsuits so, to prevent even more changing and faffing, we all agree to don one – matchy-matchy be damned! – and hit the Promenade looking like an errant girl band, or a “Three Jumpsuits Three Ways” editorial. Unsurprisingly, we get a few curious looks ... The Bay of Angels is monopolised by posh hotels, beach clubs, yachts and, on our visit, an aeroplane banner promoting a Cannes nightclub appearance by Paris Hilton. Flashy heiresses aside, we find Nice’s affluent clientele understated and family focused. In fact I was almost disappointed that

the Promenade wasn’t a catwalk for old-money dames floating about in turbans and kaftans, toyboys hanging off their arms, leaving a scented trail of Neroli Portofino in their wake. By and large, Nice is easy to navigate once you’ve sussed out where the Promenade des Anglais is. Boulevard Gambetta and Avenue Jean Medecin run vertically, while the Promenade du Paillon slithers on a diagonal. Near its base is the Place Masséna, which is a giant, Italian-style chequerboard of a plaza that bustles with cafés, street performers and people watchers. At night the square is lit by sculptor Jaume Plensa’s seven-plinth-high figures slowly changing colour. They ebb and glow while we watch some hip-hop dancers working an enthusiastic crowd. Cannes attracts a younger, more well-heeled crowd, ever drawn to the joie de vivre of the famous Croisette. Perhaps it’s a sandy beach thing – in Nice it’s all about the pebbles. Beach clubs in either city

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5 nice things to do in Nice ...


ART CRAWL Surprisingly, because it doesn’t give off a particularly “artsy” vibe, Nice has 20 municipal museums and art galleries. Among the best are the Musée d’Art Moderne et d’Art Contemporain (Place Yves Klein,, Musée Matisse (164 Avenue des Arènes de Cimiez,, Musée Marc Chagall (Avenue Docteur Ménard, musees-nationaux-alpesmaritimes. fr), Musée des Beaux-Arts (33 Avenue des Baumettes, and, in Antibes, the Musée Picasso (


DAY-TO-NIGHT DRINKS The iconic, historic Negresco Hotel ( on the Promenade des Anglais is pretty special, from its 18thcentury carousel-horse-studded Brasserie La Rotonde to cocktails at Le Relais bar. But for informal, late afternoon drinks with

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nibbles of cheese and charcuterie, check out Les Distilleries Ideales (24 Rue de la Prefecture, Inside resembles a Parisian bistro but its terrace is the true hotspot – literally in summer, when it catches the last of the day’s rays.


OPERA The Opéra de Nice (9 Rue Raoul Bosio, +33 492 174 000; is a beauty both inside and out. Designed by François Aune – a student of Gustave Eiffel – it’s home to the Nice Philharmonic Orchestra and the Ballet Nice Méditerranée, so there’s plenty to love for all ages.


ARCHITECTURE APPRECIATION Conceptualised by sculptor Sacha Sonso (1937-2013), the “Tête Carrée”, or “Square Head Building”, on the Promenade des Arts, is the first inhabited monumental sculpture in the world,

housing seven floors. Alas, as a library administration building, it’s not open to the public. But its exterior makes the biggest impact.


EAT WELL Home of the legendary Niçoise salad and socca (a sort of chickpea crepe), Nice abounds with Provençale classics. So whether you decide to sample a classic bourride (fish soup) with aioli at the bohemian Les Arcades, in Biot ( – also a whimsical hotel, stuffed with modern art – or larging it at the institution that is La Petit Maison (lapetitemaison-nice. com), you won’t be disappointed. And if you can’t beat ‘em, join ‘em – try Les Petits Farcis’ market tours and cooking classes ( For more on what to do and where to go, see

Hot gossip – two madams, left, having a chinwag on the Promenade des Anglais, its patented Chaises Bleues chairs designed by Jean Michel Wilmotte. Above, Niçoise temptations at every turn.

are not cheap – from at least €18 per full day, for a sun lounger and an umbrella – so if you’re going to spend a lot of time on the seafront, buy a cheap parasol and mats. Later, many of these clubs become chichi nightspots, but velvet ropes, dance music and overpriced drinks are not on our agenda. We are too busy providing our own entertainment, namely watching our mate Martina bust out some surprisingly fluent Billie Barry Stage School tap dance moves – something that would just never happen on a lads’ holiday. Girls on tour means girls go shopping, of course, and Avenue Jean Medecin ticks all the boxes for the likes of Zara, Mango, Gallerie Lafayette and Sephora. But it’s the French pharmacies that prove the biggest draw, us bulk-buying Bioderma, La Roche-Posay and Vichy skincare. We don’t stumble across any hip, independent boutiques or districts. But we find a contemporary tea emporium, Lov Organic (Rue Dalpozzo;, on the same street as Hotel Windsor, where we practise our woeful pidgin French with the

cordial, excellent-English-speaking owner. Loose leaf fanciers will go wild for its fragrant plethora packaged in oh-so-cute reusable tins. (We later swap rooibos for bubbles however, discovering the delights of prosecco with amaretto while watching a rose-gold sun set over le plage in Cannes). But if you like a rummage, visit the open-air market Cours Saleya in Vieux Nice (“Old Town”). A photo-opportunists’ paradise, brimming with flowers, fruit, charcuterie, arts and crafts throughout the week, its Marché à la Brocante every Monday is a treasure trove of antiques and curiosities. At night, these stalls are packed away and replaced with restaurant dining. There are so many eateries here, each one trying to ensnare tourists with its hottest prix fixe. We took pot luck – or, rather, were lured by cheap raspberry daiquiris – at La Brasserie du Cours (34 Cours Saleya, +33 493 926 410; and enjoyed perfectly delicious mussels and fries, and huge steaks. Also on the tourist trail is the nearby Alziari olive oil shop JULY 2014

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If you only do one daytrip, make a visit to the impossibly beautiful, ancient village of Eze, a 40-minute, tightlypacked bus ride away. Known as the “Eagle’s nest”, perched 427 metres above sea level, it overlooks the turquoise waters and super-yachts of St-Jean-Cap Ferrat. Eze has previously been occupied by the Phoenicians, Romans, Moors and the House of Savoy. But these days the only invaders are of a tourist kind – oh, and Bono and family, who own a beachfront villa. Fortunately, Eze is well preserved, with bougainvillea-lined labyrinthine streets, tiny homes converted into artists’ studios, craft stores and pretty cafés. If you can afford to dig deep, luxury hotel La Chevre d’Or (Rue du Barri, Eze, +33 492 106 666; is an ace of a base: all panoramic views, infinity pools, spa and 38 super-stylish rooms and suites. Rooms from €400 in summer. Likewise, cosy Château Eza (Rue de la Pise, +33 493 411 224; oozes romance, with its twelve rooms and suites, exposed brickwork, Michelin-starred restaurant and dreamy panoramas. Rooms from €315 in summer. A cheaper alternative is the quaint Eze Hermitage Hôtel (1951 Avenue des Diables Bleus, +33 493 410 068;, which has its own private gardens and swimming pool. Rooms from €120 in summer.

and grocery (14 Rue St-François de Paule, +33 493 629 403; alziari. It has been a family business since 1868, and as well as food, it sells olive oil-based skincare products. Speaking of which, you’ll see a lot of handmade soap for sale in Nice and in every scent under the Mediterranean sun; a reminder that the pretty town of Grasse – the spiritual home of perfume – is some 40 kilometres away. We spend our final night in the quintessentially French boutique hotel, Le Petit Palais de Nice (17 Avenue Émile Bieckert, +33 493 621 911;, delightful for its antiques and knick-knacks. The former home of 104 |

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Out of town ...

the French actor/dramatist/director Sacha Guitry (1885-1957), it’s in the quiet, affluent residential area of Cimiez. It’s a steep walk up and down the winding roads to the city centre – about ten minutes – but the vistas from the top-floor rooms (as well as the sun terrace with small pool) are worth the exertion. We are loath to leave. If we were staying longer, we’d take the train or bus to Menton, Vence, Antibes, Roquebrune-CapMartin, each of which has its own sheen – and possibly even Monaco, Monte Carlo and St Tropez. But for a long weekend of sunshine, fine wine – and obscene amounts of exquisite tarte tatin – Nice is just the ticket for a girls’ mini-break. In fact, it lives up to its name. Follow Lucy @lucywhitedublin





Sleeping under canvas can be wild, wonderful and luxurious. Fran Power goes glamping.

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Slane, Co Meath Rock Farm’s glampsite is beautifully placed. Set in a tree-filled glade on a hillside that runs down to the River Boyne and overlooks Slane Castle are five luxury yurts and two shepherd’s huts. On the hilltop above is Le Shack, the communal cooking, eating, BBQing, showering and lolling area. It’s all surprisingly elegant – even the compost loos are fragrant. And cute touches, such as solar-powered fairy lights around the inside of the yurts, wood-burning stoves, a hot tub and bonfire, set this sylvan spot apart. The farm supplies delicious and generous breakfast packs (choose from meat lover, veggie or kid's breakfast; €8 per adult; €5 kids) and BBQ packs (€15 per person) or, for groups of ten plus, a hosted BBQ is available (€25 per person). Sybarites can even book a massage or beauty treatment in their yurt. Two nights for a couple and two children, from €200 low season. (041 988 4861; Eat out at ... Just a few kilometres down the road by electric-bike is the lovely Georgian estate of Tankardstown ( and its fine restaurant, the Brabazon, where chef Robbie Krawczyk transforms produce from the walled garden into superb meals. For those who like something more relaxed, book in with Rock Farm for the No Trace Summer Picnic on July 24, part of Slane Slap Up week.

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West Dorset, UK Is it still camping if your yurt has electricity? We’re not sure but weary urbanites will find the shift to rustic life easy at Crafty Camping’s yurts, tipis and bell tents, an hour south of Bristol, where electric blankets warm the king-sized beds, heated towel-rails await and the communal yurt has Wi-Fi. In fact, the place has more than enough smooth to go with the rough – gourmet pies in the communal fridge, a yurt sauna and tree showers (and good pubs nearby). You’d be more than happy to spend all day in a hammock in this kid-free spot, but with courses in green woodworking, bowl or spoon carving, it would be a shame not to have a whittle. All thumbs? Cheer up, bag one of the beautiful hand-carved spoons at Crafty Camping's shop and pretend. Three-night weekend yurt stay, high season, £450; two-hour course, £42. (+44 1460 221 102; Dream on at … Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s River Cottage HQ (+44 1297 630 300; is nearby so you can skill up on anything from butchery to seashore foraging, treat yourself to a meal or at his nearby Canteen (Axminster, +44 1297 631 715).

Alhaurín el Grande, Malaga, Spain For a sunny break in the mountainous countryside half an hour’s drive from Malaga airport, check into Casa da Laila. It’s a romantic spot – five roomy bell tents are scattered around an orange grove with a pool, each lit at night by candle lanterns. There’s a central caña shala where you can catch a nap or a yoga class, strum a tune on the house guitar, or hang out with fellow glampers. Breakfasts are served on La Terraza with stunning views of the mountains (eggs from the owners’ chickens, when they oblige); a gourmet dinner can also be organised here (the owner Anne-Marie runs a vegetarian catering company) or you can cook your own at the outdoor kitchen. The glampsite is on the outskirts of the town of Alhaurín el Grande so there are plenty of restaurants and bars to sample a short walk away, while a market every second Saturday yields lovely handmade crafts and organic produce for the folks back home – be sure to taste the local gazpacho, mostachón (an almond paste) and first-rate Serrano ham and chorizo. Two-night minimum stay, tent sleeps two adults and one child, from €65 per night B&B; €70 high season. (+34 655 84 34 54; Dance at … There are a zillion fiestas to enjoy here, including a fantastic religious procession during Easter week, but our favourite is the passion of La Noche Flamenca of Alhaurín, held on the last weekend of July, when Andalucia’s best flamenco dancers stamp it out with the locals (

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Mirano, Venice, Italy lodge has a lounge and deck, there’s a shady orchard for siesta-ing, and what with your colonial-style roof fan, tulle-draped, fourposter beds, linen sheets and aluminium bathtubs, you’ll soon begin to feel like the doge of Venice yourself. Breakfasts are served to you, your tent is cleaned daily, towels changed and Wi-Fi is available. From €180 per night for two. (+39 340 751 3727; Get screen time at … The oldest in the world (and some would say the best), the Venice Film Festival kicks off in August on the Lido, in Venice. It first ran in 1932 and awarded the Golden Lion to Flaherty’s Man of Aran in 1934. Check it out. (Runs August 27 to September 6;

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Leave Venice to the tourists and pitch up instead at Canonici di San Marco, a luxury tented lodge 13 kilometres away in Mirano where, in the past, Venetian nobles whiled away their summers. With just four lodges, each 40-60 square metres, from two to six guests can sleep here in some style. Each

Karmansbo, Sweden At Wild Sweden’s Kolarbyn Ecolodge, two hours outside Stockholm, and deep in the Bergslagen forest, your accommodation is in one of twelve mud-and-grass forest huts with bilberry- and mushroom-covered roofs. Inside is a wood-burning stove, two beds and a flock of sheepskin rugs. The soundtrack is wind and birdsong. Kolarbyn is more DIY than self-catering – you chop your own wood, catch your own dinner in the lake and cook it over an open fire, washing your dishes in the stream

afterwards. Shower? Well, not as such, instead you can plunge in the nearby lake or steam yourself in the floating sauna. It’s not all roughing it though, cupboards are stocked with organic Fairtrade coffee, muesli, eggs and bread, and there’s a supermarket just three kilometres down the forest path. Listen up … A real draw here is what you might see or hear. Kolarbyn runs wolf-howling tours during the long summer nights that include a trip to

meet the experts at Grimsö Wildlife Research Station, a trek and overnight camp in nearby wolf territory to hear the pack howl, see their prints and territorial markings. You might even catch a glimpse of one of these shy animals ... Wolf-howling tours run Saturday and Sunday, June to end of September, 2450 SEK (about €270). For a three-night Kolarbyn Ecolodge Wildlife Adventure with moose and beaver tours, adults 4390 SEK, children 2350 SEK. (+46 70 610 6150;

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Lake Erie, Canada If you like your encounters with nature to be fast and furious – and family friendly – a zipline and canopy tour on the northern shores of Lake Erie will hit the spot. Long Point offers a two-and-a-half-hour tour through the tree canopy, with a couple of wobbly suspension skybridges and vertigoinducing platforms for good measure. There’s even a night tour. Luckily, the rest of the experience, including the luxury tents with electricity, running water, decks, private bathrooms and flush toilets will do a lot to rebalance the nerves. To refuel, there’s a restaurant onsite, or organise a delivery from Surfside Pizza (+1 519 586 8500) to your tent if you’re too stretched to move, but with 35 kilometres of shoreline to explore, a vast lake to splash in, kayaking, mountain biking and trails, it’d be a shame

David’s (davidsportdover. com). Two-night minimum stay in high season, B&B, $229 per night. (+1 877 743 8687; or

not to. And if all that family bonding gets too intense, there’s even a grown-up escape just across the road at the Burning Kiln Winery (; check out the food trailer there from upmarket local restaurant

Gaze at … Long Point Observatory is located in one of the darkest points in Southern Ontario, offering the opportunity via the 16-inch SchmidtCassegrain telescope to spot planets, nebulae and far-off galaxies. Stargazing tour (CAN $30); advanced lecture series covers Deep Space, the Gas and Ice Giants, Terrestrial Planets and more (CAN $30 each).

California, USA If you’re fly-driving from San Francisco to San Diego, peel off the highway and head to Warner Springs to tour the wine country. By night, circle back to the tented cabin at Camp Ribbonwood, which is set on oak woodland on the edge of thousands of acres of wilderness with spectacular views. The frame of this love nest is constructed from recycled timber saved from the cedar fire of 2003, while most of the furniture was made by owner and woodworker Lane McClelland and his wife Laurie. There’s a wellequipped kitchen, a pizza oven, a bathroom, a queen-sized bed with heated mattress, and a Jacuzzi out on the large deck so you can stargaze as you soak. No need to hang a Do Not Disturb sign out – Lane and Laurie guarantee privacy. Stock up on vittles at nearby Warner Springs, or pop out for a dinner of elk burger or bison bratwurst at County Line BBQ & Café (23446 Highway 79, Warner Springs, +1 951 767 3040) but do not leave without tasting a fruit pie from Julian Pie Company ( in Santa Ysabel. Two-night minimum stay, $165 per night, for two. (+1 619 818 9343; or Sip at … This is wine country – the Pacific breezes and cool dry nights are a grape grower’s allies and there are many family-run vineyards to explore. Try Shadow Mountain Vineyards ( for viognier, sauvignon blanc and cabernet sauvignon among others, or Hawk Watch Winery (open for tastings Friday to Sunday;; we’re keen on their (every second) Friday night sundowner sessions. AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO BRISTOL SEVERAL TIMES DAILY; DUBLIN TO MALAGA TWICE DAILY, CORK TO MALAGA, ONCE A DAY, SHANNON TO MALAGA TWICE A WEEK; DUBLIN TO VENICE FOUR TIMES A WEEK; DUBLIN TO STOCKHOLM FOUR TIMES A WEEK; DUBLIN TO TORONTO DAILY; DUBLIN TO SAN FRANCISCO FIVE TIMES A WEEK.

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Six Generations of Meat Par Excellence The Buckley Family has built a reputation as purveyors of quality meats for over six generations. Francis Xavier opened his first butcher shop on Moore Street in 1930 and this soon became a well-known Dublin institution. Since then it was part of a natural progression to open our own steakhouses around the city and serve our famous beef from our butchers to your table. WWW.FXBUCKLEY.IE

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Riding the wave in Bundoran, Co Donegal – Danish champion Annette Carsing shows how it’s done.

Swell seekers

Leslie Ann Horgan finds her sea legs for the latest watersport craze. he wobbling from my legs radiates up my body until I am shaking all over. Suddenly, I lurch to the right and my stomach clenches with fear. Instinctively my knees bend and I find my balance once more. I crouch there for a few seconds breathing deeply, then slowly straighten up again. Having taken several terrifying moments to get to my feet on the board, I don’t want to come off them again – or, indeed, tumble into the grey-green waters of Dún Laoghaire harbour below. This, then, is my introduction to Stand Up Paddleboarding, or


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SUP, the Hawaiian watersport craze that’s spreading across the country. Having tried and failed to learn to surf numerous times in the past decade, I am hoping that this more gentle pursuit might be the watersport for me. “The beauty of SUP is that, unlike most other watersports, it’s accessible to people of all ages, sizes and fitness levels,” says Ronan Conway, my instructor today for an introductory lesson at Aboveboard in Dublin’s Dún Laoghaire. “No matter what your motivation is – fitness, weight loss or just being out on the water – SUP is the perfect sport.” Ronan, who is accredited by

Top tips


Be brave The three other people who were due to be in my lesson cancelled because of the overcast morning. It’s wind rather than rain that is more of a challenge for SUP, so don’t be put off by bad weather. (And, at least, if it rains you’ll already be wet should you fall in.)


Bend your knees The best way to regain your balance is by lowering your centre of gravity. If you start to fall, bend your knees and push the paddle down into the water to steady

yourself. In strong wind, kneel down and paddle the board to a more sheltered spot.


Keep bending your knees Experts at SUP bend their knees slightly as the paddle enters the water and then straighten them as they pull it alongside the board, pushing their hip towards the paddle with each stroke. This uses the core of the body, adding strength to the stroke and giving the stomach musclesa better workout.

If success in surfing is measured by the ability to catch a wave, success in SUP is the ability not to end up in one. both the Australian and British SUP organisations, explains that Aboveboard provides its clients with top quality equipment to give them the best possible experience. Certainly my sleek bamboo Lokahi board – worth about €1,000 – is much more cool than the clunky foam beginners’ boards I’ve been given to surf with in the past. The three-metre rubber-topped board is exceptionally stable, too, and beginning the lesson on my knees I am very comfortable. For the first few minutes we practise stopping and turning. Although Ronan has already demonstrated this on land, once out on the water I promptly forget which is my left and which my right. The single paddle is long – measured to 25 centimetres above each individual’s head – but light. With one hand gripping the handle at the top and the other halfway down, it takes very little pressure to make the board glide forward. Then it is time to stand. With Ronan beside me giving detailed instructions, and a deep breath in, I slowly rise to my feet. Unlike surfing, there is no “pop up” movement required. Since that’s exactly what I have failed to master over the years, I’m much happier with the slower, more gentle ascent used in SUP. For the next five minutes or so my legs feel like jelly but, once their inner Riverdance stops, I am able to relax and enjoy the scenery and try to spot some seals. SUP is primarily known as a fitness-boosting activity, popular with the likes of Jennifer Aniston and Cameron Diaz who use it to burn 600-1,000 calories per hour, boosting core strength, tone muscles and improve circulation. Once

I get going, however, gliding quietly across the water feels more like meditation than a workout. Until, that is, the wind gives me a good shove in the back and I wobble dangerously towards the waves once more, suddenly glad of my wetsuit and lifejacket. “When you surf, paddling out to try to catch a wave can be exhausting,” says Ronan. “SUP is a great beginners’ sport, but when you get more advanced you can learn to ride the waves in the same way, just with much less effort.” Petite women seem to excel at SUP, he says, while taller men with more upper body strength often struggle at the start. If success in surfing is measured by the ability to catch a wave, success in SUP is the ability to not end up in one. After 90 minutes I leave the harbour bone dry, with a sense of accomplishment and a big smile on my face. Forget surfing, I’m an SUP girl from now on.

Get on board ...

1 From top, Leslie Ann under tuition; a Dún Laoghaire harbour’s eye view of the SUP crew; and sharing the surf with seals.

Aboveboard, The West Pier, Dún Laoghaire, Co Dublin Open seven days a week, all year round, Aboveboard provides introductory and improver lessons at €40 for two-and-a half hours. These can be booked individually or in a group and the price includes use of a wetsuit, boots and lifejacket. Sunrise and sunset lessons are popular. Separately, boards and paddles can be rented for €15 an hour. (01 280 4774;


SUP Dude, The Pier, Mullaghmore, Co Sligo Beginners’ taster sessions run twice daily and cost €35 for two hours, wetsuit and lifejacket included. A one-hour guided core fitness workout class costs €25. (085 705 1188;


Surf SUP, Miltown Malbay, Co Clare Daily lessons at Spanish Point or Whitestrand beaches cost €35 for two hours, wetsuit and lifejacket included. A 30-minute guided SUP tour of the local cliffs and sea caves costs €45. (086 205 4032;

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48 hours in

Ghent Quaint cobblestone streets and historic architecture, with enticing pit stops galore. Niamh Wade uncovers this Belgian beauty. Don’t miss ... With more than 300 local beers to try, the temptation is to drop the bags and embark on a thirst-quenching mission ... That would be a shame. The city is bursting with fascinating finds and deserves to be explored. of Fine Arts (Fernand Scribedreef 1, +329 240 0700; Squeeze in St Peter’s Abbey Garden and Vineyard – an idyllic city retreat (Sint-Pietersplein 9, +329 243 9730; sintpietersabdijgent). Gravensteen, aka Castle of the Counts, with its morbidly fascinating Torture Museum, is a great stop (Sint-Veerleplein 11; with ace views. If visiting the Sunday morning flower market in Kouter Square, try fresh oysters at the Blauwe Kiosk (Kouter, 1;, and for eyepopping wall art pass through Graffiti Street on Werregarenstraat.


TOURS Despite tramlines and cobblestones, bicycles rule here. Get the inside scoop on a three-hour cycle tour (Voskenslaan 27, +329 242 8040; – it’s the perfect mix of culture and calorie burning. For a less energetic history lesson, relax on a boat trip though historic Ghent (Korenlei 4A, +329 229 1716; Be prepared for funny anecdotes and snap-happy moments. If you visit on a Friday BEST FESTS or Saturday, make July is bursting with 2.30pm at the arts events: Gent Jazz Museum Arnold Festival, July 10-19 (gentjazz. Vander Haeghen CULTURE Buy com); 10 Days Off Dance (Veldstraat 82, a CityCard Gent Festival, July 17-27 (10daysoff. +329 269 8460) and explore the be); and the Ghent a priority. The many museums Festival, July 18-27 Chinese Drawing and galleries ( Room with painted (, Chinese silk walls is including the STAM breathtaking. The tour museum (Godshuizenlann 2, also involves a gander around Hotel +329 267 1400;, d’Hane-Steenhuyse across the road. above, S.M.A.K, the museum of Its claim to fame? King Louis XVIII contemporary art (Citadelpark, +329 once stayed there ( 240 7601;, and the Museum

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Top, Ghent's waterways and ye olde buildings make for a pretty minibreak, and above, the STAM museum, which documents Ghent's genesis as a city.

SHOPPING For high-street brands, head to Veldstraat. Love vintage? Think Twice is a must (Ajuinlei 15a, +32 495 253 435; You’ll find all things quirky in Achter de Maan (St-Niklaasstraat 1, +329 233 2891;, and at Hema (Korenmarkt 3, +329 269 9410;, think Marks & Spencer with Lidl prices.

Sleep at ... UNIQUE Housed in the grounds of the Carmelite Monastery, Het Rustpunt is a rare find. Monks live on-site so you need to respect their silence. It’s worth staying for the beautiful grounds, nice TV-free rooms and easy walk to the centre of town. (Burgstraat 46, +329 225 9571; CONTEMPORARY The NH Gent Belfort (Hoogpoort 63, +329 233 3331; is perfect for exploring. It also boasts a buffet breakfast that tight waistbands won’t like. And only steps away from the Lys River is the Ghent Marriott (Korenlei 10, +329 233 9393; It’s quaint on the outside, but surprisingly large and modern inside. COSY If you want sophisticated elegance, stay at Maison d'Hôtes Hotel Verhaegen (Oude Houtlei 110, +329 265 0765;, left, an 18th-century mansion set amidst a period French garden. For lavish surroundings with antique furniture, book into Charme Hotel Hancelot (Vijfwindgatenstraat 19, +329 234 3545; You can even have a massage in the privacy of your own room. ROMANTIC For dinner, it has to be KorenleiTwee (Korenlei 2, +329 224 0073; Not cheap, but the food is fine and the decor elegant – check out the riverside terrace. Close by, in a former 13thcentury grain store, is the smart brasserie Belga Queen (Graslei 10, +329 280 0100; But for a true Ghent experience, cosy up in “brown bar” ‘t Gouden Mandeke (Pensmarkt 9, +329 224 3388) for its huge beer selection.

Not a nation to let space go to waste, many bars and eateries are housed in former factories or warehouses. Vegetarians observe – every Thursday is national Veggie Day. QUIRKY Taste all things local with a two-hour Nibbling Tour around Ghent’s finest delis ( For a light bite with seriously good coffee, go to the funky, bike-themed Bidon (Bisdomkaai 25, +32 495 247 697;, above, and for a completely retro pit stop, pop into Wasbar (Nederkouter 109, +32 485 423 432;, above right. This launderettecum-eatery is buzzing. But be sure to change your socks the day you order a “Max of the House” at Dulle Griet (Vrijdagmarkt 50, +329 224 2455; – your shoe is a deposit for the fancy beer glass, and hoisted to the ceiling in a net.


Refuel at …

Anticlockwise from top, the sophisticated Maison d' d'Hôtes Hotel Verhaegen; the cyclists' friend, Bidon; luscious seafood at Belga Queen; cafe-cumlaundrette, Wasbar.

HISTORIC Buried behind the main shopping thoroughfare is Pakhuis (Schuurkenstraat 4, +329 223 5555; Once a market hall, it now encompasses old-world charm and an extensive menu. For sights of the Belfry and a tasty feed, hit the Belfort Restaurant (Emilie Braunplein 40, +329 223 3565; And before leaving town, be sure to order a drink of RoomeR, a locally produced elderflower liqueur. Pair it with Prosecco for perfection. AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO BRUSSELS DAILY, AND FROM CORK TWICE WEEKLY.

minutes from Getting there – Ghent is just 55 el information, Brussels airport by train. For trav o modation and what's on, see accom JULY 2014

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Stockholm is one-third water and one-third green space, so it’s a runners’ and cyclists’ paradise. DJURGÅRDEN is good for the solitude, and the loop of Södermalm is a good tour of the city, or do like I do – get lost on purpose (bring your travel card in case you get carried away).

RÅKULTUR is serious su sushi. It’s not cheap, but it’s it worth it, and if you ca can sit out on the terrace on a sunny evening, it’s so perfect it feels like yo you’re doing something wrong. wr Order the soft shell sh crab temaki. Then or order another one. (K (Kungstensgatan 2, +46 86 8696 2325;

DESIGNTORGET has reasonably priced, carefully selected products and housewares from established and new designers, and the stock changes all the time. It started as an idea to fill an empty space in a cultural centre, but has grown into a chain of 17 stores. Don’t miss the jewellery section for cool, limited-run pieces. (Locations around Stockholm;


Stockholm Technology writer Jane Ruffino picks special spots in her adopted city – a paradise for runners and cyclists.


Whether or not you care about Whe Abba, Ab HOTEL RIVAL owned by Benny Andersson, is a gem. Und Understated Art Deco design, sm small but comfortable rooms, and a great restaurant and bar bar. The café and restaurant on the ground floor is popular wi with locals for lunch, and appa apparently a good place to st star-spot. Rooms from 1,490kr. (M (Mariatorget 3, +46 8545 78 78900;

Who thought you could take a 17th-century ship that sank in the harbour on its maiden launch, and make it one of the most engaging museums in Europe? I’ve only been once so far, but VASA MUSEET is a place to spend a whole rainy day. Great, hands-on exhibits for kids, too. (Galärvarvsvägen 14, +46 8519 54800;

I scored the perfect dress for 70kr at HORNSTULLS MARKNAD a flea market that runs every Sunday from May to September on Hornstulls Strand. The market varies in size and selection so can be hit-and-miss, but it’s worth a look, and it’s your chance to see the heart of hipster country in full bloom. (

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On my first visit to Stockholm, my first tour of the city was by kayak. You can rent one on LÅNGHOLMEN and have a paddle around some of the islands, including through the city centre. Don’t worry if you fall in; the water’s clean enough to drink, and it’s a canal, so you’re not freezing in Baltic waters. (+46 7606 93852;

The first thing I did when I moved to Stockholm was get an annual membership for FOTOGRAFISKA the museum of contemporary mu photography. Cleverly pho curated exhibitions change cu all al the time, so even if you come every few weeks, co as I do, there’s always something new to see. The som café ca has comfy chairs, a great view, and decent Wi-Fi. gr (Stadsgårdshamnen 22, +46 (S 8509 850 00500;

Rent a city bike and go out to SKOGSKYRKOGÅRDEN a cemetery (and UNESCO World Heritage site) designed to mix nature, art and architecture, with influences from neoclassical to functionalist. It’s not the place to spot famous graves, but it’s worth exploring as a landscape in its own right. (Sockenvägen 492, +46 8508 31730;

You won’t get a bad cup of coffee in Stockholm, but I’m still trying to decide whose coffee is best: DROP COFFEE at Wollmar Yxkullsgatan 10 (, or the nearby JOHAN+NYSTROM at Swedenborgsgatan 7 (johanochnystrom. se). I like to pretend there’s an important reason I need to choose a favourite – but really I just like to drink too much coffee.


Get a picnic from 19thcentury indoor food market ÖSTERMALMS SALUHALL or eat at Melanders, a local seafood chain. This is a good place to try Swedish delicacies of all kinds, including cinnamon buns, or some of the undersung Swedish cheeses. (Östermalmstorg;

More about Jane

Last winter, after nearly 15 years in Ireland, working in archaeology, journalism and technology, Boston-born Jane Ruffino moved to Stockholm, where she’s enjoying real seasons again. She writes a technology column for Ireland’s Sunday Business Post, and works as a copywriter and content strategist in a Swedish content agency. When she’s not working, she’s exploring Stockholm’s bakeries, running trails and bike paths, and basking in the refreshingly high level of ambient feminism. She lives with her boyfriend in real life, and at @janeruffino in internet-life.

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OAXEN SLIP is modern Nordic food with a twist. It has a Bib Gourmand (its sister restaurant has a star), but that isn’t why you should eat here. The food is clever without being too fussy and the service is great. They have a creative vegetarian menu, too. It’s set on a little harbour, tucked away in Djurgården, and perfect to round out a day at Gröna Lund. (Beckholmsvägen 26, +46 8551 53105;


Visit Francis






3 hip stays ...

SPOTLIGHT RIOJA Compiled by Fran Power

TOP TABLES Rioja’s cuisine produces hearty stuff – lamb stews, potatoes, white beans, peppers and world-class chorizo. Really though it’s all about tapas – the Spanish version of a pub crawl, though more civilised and punctuated with tasty bites along the way. Logroño, above, is said to have the best tapas in the country – feast your way along Calle Laurel and Calle San Juan, tasting mini tortillas, kebabs, sambos, marinated prawns, but do not miss the garlic-drenched mushrooms at Bar Soriano. If you’re after a blowout meal, brothers Carlos and Ignacio of Venta Moncalvillo, above, left, (Ctra de Medrano 6, +33 941 444 832;, in the tiny village of Daroca de Rioja, have raised the local cuisine (and wine) to an art form – and been rewarded with a Michelin star.

3 must-dos ...

SIP AT … Bodegas David Moreno At this family-run vineyard, tastings take place in a beehive-shaped stone hut, or chozo, surrounded by vines. At harvest time, you can help test the grapes for sugar content to decide whether they’re ripe for picking – kids will love it. Afterwards, check out the wine cellars and stay for a lunch of patatas a la Riojana, and some delicious reds.

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MARVEL AT … Vivanco Dynasty Wine Culture Museum This museum in Briones pays homage to the part that wine has played in world culture. See displays on varieties of grape, watch barrel making, there’s even a fantastical collection of corkscrews. Combine with lunch at the first-class restaurant and/or wine tasting at the Dinastia Vivanco next door.

FLY AT … Globos Arcoiris If you’re after a bird’s eye view of the vineyards, medieval villages and hills of Alta Rioja, treat yourself to a hot-air balloon ride. The pilot can be relied upon to produce a bottle of cava at just the perfect moment or to thrill you by swooping down so you can pick nuts from the trees. A hearty post-flight breakfast is included.

CAPITAL Hotel F&G Logroño A ten-minute walk from the epicentre of Logroño’s tapas district, central square and 16th-century cathedral, this modern hotel with 72 rooms overlooks the River Ebro. With a good restaurant and bustling in-house café (that serves an excellent café con leche), free Wi-Fi and comfortable, no-nonsense rooms, it’s a good base from which to explore Rioja country. Doubles from €60.

DESIGNIST Hotel Marqués de Riscal Futuristic design from architect Frank Gehry makes this five-star hotel a bizarre sight in the middle of vine country. Pink twists of titanium front an elegant interior that houses 55 luxurious minimalist bedrooms, a Michelin-starred chef in the kitchen and an award-winning spa that peddles Vinothérapie. Crush Cabernet Scrub anyone? Doubles from €320 B&B (includes vineyard visit).

PEACEFUL Parador Santo Domingo de la Calzada If you’re walking the

Camino, this is the place to take a breather. Built in the 12th century to host pilgrims – and located right beside the town’s historic cathedral – the parador has been upgraded to suit 21st-century needs. Vestiges of its Gothic past remain on the ground floor, while bedrooms are plain but comfortable. B&B from €110.

closer than you think

Just 100 meters from Shannon Airport

Park Inn by Radisson Shannon Airport Co. Clare, Ireland T: +353 (0)61 471 122, F: +353 (0)61 471 982

3 things to do when

you are visiting Ireland... Opening Hours: Monday to Saturday: Sunday:

08:30 - 20:00 08:30 - 18:00

Offices: 17 Lower O’Connell Street, Dublin 1 118 Grafton Street, Dublin 2

City Sightseeing

Dublin / Guinness / Trinity College

Tel:+353 1 898 0700


Glendalough / Avoca Village / Powerscourt

Cliffs of Moher

Galway Bay / The Burren / Doolin

Dublin’s friendliest team!

Announcing Ireland’s Best Workplaces 2014 Best Small Workplaces 2014 (20 to 100 employees)

Best Medium Workplaces 2014 (101 to 300 employees)

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“These organisations are ahead of the rest because they have proven the clear link between high trust and high performance. Does your organisation deserve to be recognised on the 2015 list?” John Ryan, CEO, Great Place to Work Ireland

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InflIght EntErtaInmEnt BOX OFFICE

See pages 130 and 131 for the latest movies!

ClaSSIC fIlmS / IrISh ShOrt fIlmS / IrISh fEatUrE fIlmS





Starring Diane Kruger

Starring Steve Carell

Starring Heath Ledger

Starring Brendan Gleeson

Classic Films · Crazy Heart · The Departed · The Legend Of Bagger Vance · MASH · There’s No Business Like Show Business

Irish Films · Analyze That · Little Miss Sunshine · In America · Great Expectations · Batman Begins · The Dark Knight · The Dark Knight Rises

· Casablanca · Men Of Honor · Master & Commander: The Far Side Of The World · Goodfellas · Walk The Line

· Breathe In · Delaneys Bike Shop · There’s No Charge For The Hat · Small Green Fields · A Film With Me In It · The Guard july 2014

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Welcome Aboard Aer Lingus is delighted to welcome you on board Tá áthas ar Aer Lingus fáilte ar bord a chur romhat For your comfort and safety Please pay attention while the cabin crew demonstrate the use of the safety equipment before take-off. Also, make sure to read the safety instruction card, which is in the seat pocket in front of you. Seat belts must be fastened during take-off and landing, and whenever the “Fasten Seat Belts” sign is switched on. We recommend

that you keep your seat belt loosely fastened throughout the flight. Your seat must be in the upright position during take-off and landing, but can be reclined by pressing the large button in the armrest. Other buttons (in the armrest or above your head, depending on the aircraft) may be used to operate your reading light and air vent, or to call a cabin attendant.

SMOKING In line with Irish government regulations, Aer Lingus has a no-smoking policy onboard its flights. Smoking cigarettes or e-cigarettes is not permitted in any part of the cabin at any time.

with Aer Lingus. sant flight. Thank you for choosing to fly plea and ble forta com a have you e hop We as taisteal le hAer Lingus. eamhach agat agus go raibh maith agat taitn ach pord com s tura onn mbí go nn suil agai

Please note Mobile phones and all other portable electronic equipment such as tablet computers, mp3 players and e-readers must be switched to flight safe or the equivalent airplane mode if you wish to use them during taxi, take-off, in-flight or landing, or switched to flight safe mode and then off if you wish to use in-flight only. If your device does not have a flight safe mode, then it must be switched off and stowed for the duration of the flight. After landing and only when crew have advised that it is safe to do so, you are permitted to use your mobile phone provided it is within easy reach, you must remain seated with your seatbelt fastened and follow the instructions of the cabin crew. DEVICES PERMITTED AT ✔ ANY TIME Devices powered by micro battery

cells and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers.

DEVICES PERMITTED IN ● FLIGHT ONLY* Laptops, portable CD-players, Mini-

disk player, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers and electronic toys. For the comfort of other passengers, audio devices should be used with a headset. If using a laptop, please ensure that Wi-Fi is turned off, unless you are connecting to the Aer Lingus Wi-Fi network on our A330 aircraft. *Not permitted during taxi/take-off/initial climb/approach/ landing

DEVICES PROHIBITED ✘ AT ALL TIMES Devices transmitting radio frequency

intentionally such as walkie-talkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg, mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and Mini-disk Recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg, supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN). Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg, Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.

On A330 aircraft, to avail of our Wi-Fi and Mobile Network you need to switch off the flight safe mode on your device once advised that it is safe to do so by crew.

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JULY 2014

Slattery’s Bar Open at 7am




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Featuring Traditional Irish Music, Dancing and Storytelling plus 3 Course Irish Menu. All only €40

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All major sports shown across our ten screens

hen you step over the threshold at Miller & Cook in Pearse Street, Mullingar, take a deep breath. You’re entering a new world, an emporium of all that’s best in fresh local produce. Miller & Cook’s a café, a delicatessen, a grocery, a bakery, a restaurant. It’s all these things and more – it’s an experience. So take your time. Explore. Savour. Sit down to fine food expertly cooked. When, at last, you leave you’ll be refreshed. Uplifted ... The Miller & Cook experience. Because life is for living!

The most famous pint of Guinness in Dublin

50 Pearse Street, Mullingar, Co. Westmeath, 044 934 0884;

129 Capel St, Dublin 1

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+ 353 (0)1 874 6 8 44



On July 9, 2014, Aer Lingus welcomes customers flying to and from London Heathrow’s new state-of-the-art Terminal 2. It’s the latest stage in Heathrow’s transformation, having been designed with the needs of passengers at its heart. The new terminal will enhance your journey through quicker processes and shorter walking distances. But don’t forget to stop and admire Richard Wilson’s new aerial Slipstream sculpture! The retail experience in T2 will consist of 52 shops – including John Lewis – and 17 bars and restaurants. We’re proud to announce that our new Gold Circle Lounge in T2 has grown in size by 50 per cent, has breathtaking views of the airfield and contains exciting features including showers, meeting rooms and a quiet area. Transferring to other flights will be seamless, and the same terminal connections will be possible with a number of our partner airlines. Arriving into T2 will be quick and easy with direct access to all of the transport links, including Heathrow Express, meaning Paddington Station can be reached in just 15 minutes. Once all airlines have moved into T2 at the end of 2014, up to 64,000 passengers are expected to travel through T2 each day on 178 flights serving 54 destinations. For further information, see Flight Connections page 148.

Ulster Men take it easy

Grand designs in Ballymun On May 23, an incredible “Muck and Magic” renovation took place in a community garden in Dublin’s Ballymun. Thanks to 100 Aer Lingus staff volunteers guided by experts from the Difference Days organisation ( and assisted by the local community and St Michael’s House students (, by the end of the day they had installed a wooden gazebo, constructed an outdoor wooden classroom, renovated a memorial garden, built wheelchairaccessible pathways and much, much more. The garden will never be the same again, and neither will all those who took part, such was the rewarding experience.

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Three of Ulster Rugby’s Th be behemoths, Ruan Pi Pienaar, John Afoa and Robbie Diack, an join joined Christoph Mu Mueller, CEO of Aer Ling Lingus and Gary Mo Montgomery, CEO of Thompson Aero Se Seating, to comforttest the award winning “Vantage” seats. The new seats will be available on Aer Lingus long haul fleet of A330 aircraft by the end of March 2015, including the new route to San Francisco. The Thompson “Vantage” seat converts to a lie-flat bed two metres in length, all are forward facing, while 90 per cent

will have direct aisle access. Aer Lingus has purchased the luxury seats for its long haul Business Class services from Portadownbased Thompson Aero Seating in a multi-million pound deal.

AER LINGUS FIRSTS Inaugural flights and events in July through the decades …


Aer Lingus started a thrice-weekly summer service on the DublinIsle of Man route on July 7, using its De Havilland DH84 Dragon EI-ABI Iolar. Today, Aer Lingus Regional operates the route year round with twelve round trips a week using ATR aircraft.

FOOD, GLORIOUS FOOD! Aer Lingus has added a summer twist to its on board menu BIA, giving customers a choice of fresh seasonal snack options. The new range has been designed in collaboration with Irish chef and restaurateur Clodagh McKenna. The menu is available on board from today for customers travelling on short-haul flights and, due to popular demand, has also been added to flights to San Francisco and Orlando. Delicious new options include: The Egg and Rocket Blaa, made with the finest Irish free range eggs, crispy scallion and rocket on a traditional Waterford blaa roll, Waterford’s famous soft white bread rolls – which were given protected designation of origin status by the European Commission in 2013; the tasty yet healthy Tuna Bap, made with tuna flakes, juicy sweetcorn, cucumber, red onion and rocket on

a fresh brown bap, and the Turkey Sandwich, consisting of Irish turkey breast with fresh spinach, roast red peppers and paprika mayo on fresh malted brown bread. Meanwhile, the Raspberry and Orange Muffin, above, is sure to be a favourite snack option. Also available on the menu are customer favourites including the Fresh Fruit Salad, Fresh Irish Scone, the Cheesy Mister – an Irish interpretation of the well-known Croque Monsieur – and the famous Chicken and Stuffing Sandwich. Aer Lingus has also added new beverages to the menu including Vit Hit water, Red Bull, herbal teas supplied by Java Republic and a holiday starter Mojito. Additions to the confectionary range include Cadbury’s Mini Animals and Twix. For more information, see the BIA menu in the seat pocket or visit


Aer Lingus is proud to announce that Aer Lingus Cargo has recently been awarded the Good Distribution Practice (GDP) Passport for supply chain service providers to the pharmaceutical, medical device and diagnostics manufacturing sectors in Ireland. In being awarded a GDP Passport Aer Lingus has demonstrated that all of its Cargo staff including its contractors are trained to the highest level on Good Distribution Practice and that its Cargo quality systems, premises and vehicles meet the highest industry standards and EU Guidelines on GDP.


Aer Lingus inaugurated the Dublin-ManchesterAmsterdam route on July 7 and the official inaugural flight on the DublinBrussels route on July 25.


On July 10, Aer Lingus operated the first transatlantic jet charter from Belfast to the US with Boeing 707 EIANV operating BelfastShannon-New York. Next came the first transatlantic charter from Newcastle on July 16 1967, operated by Boeing 707 EI-ANO.


Aer Lingus set up a joint aircraft brokerage and leasing company with Guinness Peat Group based at Shannon called Guinness Peat Aviation Limited, the Irish carrier owning 45 per cent of the company. The former Aer Lingus executive in charge of aircraft leasing, Tony Ryan, headed the venture, and several other Aer Lingus executives joined the management team.


In July, Boeing 747 EI-ASI was used on a weekly series of BelfastShannon-Toronto charters on behalf of the Ulster Maple Leaf Club. Today, Aer Lingus operates a daily Dublin-Toronto service using Boeing 757 aircraft.


On July 6, Aer Lingus carried its five-millionth transatlantic passenger since services began in 1958. Today Aer Lingus carries more than 1 million passengers a year on its transatlantic services.


In July Aer Lingus brought the American aviator Douglas “Wrong Way” Corrigan back to Ireland to celebrate the 50th anniversary of his solo flight from New York to Baldonnel in a Curtiss Robin. Prohibited by the US authorities from undertaking the flight, he flew to Ireland anyway, claiming that he had intended to fly to California but misread his compass – thus the nickname “Wrong Way”.


In July, more than 2,000 applications were lodged for the 20 Cadet Training Programme on the Airbus A320. On May 1, 2014, all 20 were presented with their wings at a special ceremony.

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Flights to the United States and Canada


Your entertainment to and from the United States and Canada!

Emmet in The Lego Movie





R / Comedy / 1hr 13mins Director James E. Duff Cast Mahira Kakkar, Andrew Pastides, Emmanuel Baptiste

PG / Documentary / 1hr 26mins Director Ryan White Cast Freda Kelly, Paul McCartney, John Lennon

R / Comedy / 1hr 37mins Director James Griffiths Cast Nick Frost, Rashida Jones, Chris O’Dowd

R / Thriller / 1hr 36mins Director M. Blash Cast Jena Malone, Chloë Sevigny, Luke Grimes

An Indian and a New Yorker strike up an unusual correspondence.

The story of The Beatles’ lifelong secretary.

A salsa dancer attempts to revive his career.

Two sisters keep their deceased mother’s body at home.





R / Biography / 1hr 30mins Director Spike Lee Cast Mike Tyson

PG-13 / Comedy / 1hr 28mins Director Rob Meyer Cast Ben Kingsley, Kodi Smit-McPhee, James Le Gros

PG / Animation / 1hr 21mins Director Rob Minkoff Cast Ty Burrell, Max Charles, Stephen Colbert

R / Comedy / 1hr 39mins Director Wes Anderson Cast Ralph Fiennes, F. Murray Abraham, Mathieu Amalric

A journey into the story and life of Mike Tyson.

The story of a 15-year old birding fanatic.

The adventures of a time-travelling boy and his dog.

The adventures of Gustave H and his trusted lobby boy.





PG-13 / Drama / 1hr 51mins Director Jason Reitman Cast Kate Winslet, Josh Brolin, Gattlin Griffith

PG / Drama / 1hr 26mins Director Stephen Brown Cast Bonnie Wright, Ciarán Hinds, Natascha McElhone

PG-13 / Action / 1hr 58mins Director José Padilha Cast Joel Kinnaman, Gary Oldman, Michael Keaton

PG / Animation / 1hr 41mins Director Phil Lord Cast Will Arnett, Elizabeth Banks, Alison Brie

A mom and her son become involved with a mysterious man.

A man returns to the sea where he spent his childhood.

Alex Murphy becomes half man, half robot - RoboCop.

A Lego worker’s quest to stop an evil tyrant.

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july 2014


Flights from the United States and Canada


er Lingus presents a variety of recently released movies, trilogies and timeless favourites that display Hollywood’s talents above and beyond the call of duty. Actors, such as Gary Oldman, Ralph Fiennes, Scarlett Johansson, Marilyn Monroe, Matt Damon, Christian Bale, Bill Murray, Toni Collette, Joaquin Phoenix and George Clooney, star in movies that range from sci-fi, action and comedy to true-life stories and children’s adventure. Welcome to the international multiplex cinema in the sky!

Joaquin Phoenix in Her





R / Comedy / 1hr 36mins Director Pascal Chaumeil Cast Imogen Poots, Aaron Paul, Rosamund Pike

PG-13 / Thriller / 1hr 57mins Director McG Cast Kevin Costner, Hailee Steinfeld, Connie Nielsen

PG-13 / Action / 1hr 45mins Director Kenneth Branagh Cast Chris Pine, Kevin Costner, Keira Knightley

PG-13 / Action / 1hr 45mins Director Paul W.S. Anderson Cast Kit Harington, Emily Browning, Kiefer Sutherland

Four people bond over their troubles.

A dying CIA agent reconnects with his daughter.

Jack Ryan attempts to prevent a plot to ruin the economy.

A slave turned gladiator attempts to save Pompeii.





R / Romance / 1hr 58mins Director Spike Jonze Cast Joaquin Phoenix, Amy Adams, Scarlett Johansson

PG / Documentary / 1hr 23mins Director James Erskine Cast Amanda Edwards, Billie Jean King, Bobby Riggs

R / Action / 1hr 36mins Director Keith Parmer Cast Jean-Claude Van Damme, Josh Henderson, Lennie James

PG-13 / Romance / 1hr 40mins Director Andrew Fleming Cast Evan Rachel Wood, Scott Speedman, J.K. Simmons

A writer becomes close to his personal operating system.

The rivalry between tennis stars Bobby Riggs and Billie Jean King.

Four thieves leave prison to reclaim what is theirs.

A young man falls for a psychiatric patient.





R / Comedy / 1hr 46mins Director Chris Nelson Cast Nicholas Braun, Hunter Cope, Dakota Johnson

PG / Animation / 1hr 30mins Director Chris Wedge Cast Ewan McGregor, Halle Berry, Mel Brooks

PG-13 / Biography / 1hr 58mins Director George Clooney Cast George Clooney, Matt Damon, Bill Murray

PG / Comedy / 1hr 30mins Director Rob Reiner Cast Madeline Carroll, Callan McAuliffe, Rebecca De Mornay

Two guys test their friendship when one comes out as gay.

A robot struggles in the big city.

A WWII Veteran returns goods stolen by Nazi thieves.

Two 8th graders find unlikely love.

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BranD nEW Drama As we witness a golden age in TV drama, Aer Lingus offers engaging choices with boxsets of True Detective, House of Cards and vikings, as well as multiple episodes from the brand new season of Game of Thrones and a return to fan favourite, Bones.

TV COmEDY Multiple-award winning actress Julia Louis-Dreyfus has been captivating audiences with her impeccable comic timing since she played Seinfeld’s Elaine. veep’s Selina Meyer is rather a different sort of role – she’s the ditzy vice-president of the United States, and Louis-Dreyfus gives as much to the character as we’ve come to expect. Those with a more anarchic sense of humour might appreciate two new episodes of It’s Always Sunny in Philadelphia or Eastbound and Down. Also available are The Big Bang Theory, Girls, and Hello Ladies.

lIfEStYlE Enjoy highlights of the Big Apple as John Fitzpatrick, CEO of Fitzpatrick Hotels North America, invites us to explore his quintessentially Irish hotel and his version of New York in the TV short, Fitzpatrick Hotels New York. The Wicklow Mountains are a renowned tourist destination; it’s less well-known that they’ve also served as a hiding place for some legendary Irish rebels. In Episode 8 of Great Irish Journeys, Daithi Ó Sé shares some of these stories. For more shows offering insights in aspects of Irish life and culture, tune into episodes of Kevin Dundon: Modern Irish Food, Imeall, Ceol ar an Imeall, Living the Wildlife and Summer Suppers.

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july 2014

For insights into cultures beyond Ireland, tune into All Night – The Parov Stelar Tour Movie, as the band document their World Tour, which took them to locations such as Russia, France, Germany, Korea and beyond. Also available are episodes of Globe Trekker, Pawn Stars, Wines of the New World, videofashion Specials, James Nesbitt’s Ireland, and The Design Doctors, as well as Anthony Bourdain and Young Hollywood: Evolution Of, featuring Selena Gomez.

DOCUmEntarY Ever wanted to see punk legend Henry Rollins wrestle an alligator? In Animal Underworld, a new series from National Geographic, Rollins investigates the relationship between humans and some of the world’s most dangerous creatures. From snake handlers to boar hunters, the hardcore giant brings his pithy wit and no-nonsense attitude to bear on the many unusual ways in which we interact with the animal kingdom. For a chance to brush up on Brazilian culture and architecture ahead of 2014’s FIFA World Cup, take a look at Homes of Brazil and explore the modernist houses, colonial mansions and luxurious beach houses of Rio de Janeiro, São Paulo and beyond. The Horsemen, Bullit, Fish Life, Ultimate Tutankhamun, Megafactories, Eyes of the Atacama are some of the other available titles.

SPOrt The Rio Olympics have been making headlines ever since the location was announced in 2009. You’ve heard about the city’s praiseworthy attempts to sort things out ahead of the 2016 games – now watch the future contestants prepare their bodies for the biggest test they’ll ever face in Road to Rio. Tune into Football’s Greatest International Teams, which takes an in-depth look at the reigning World and European Champions - Spain. For even more World Cup nostalgia, delve into the twists and turns in tournaments gone by in FIFA World Cup Shocks. Other armchair sportspeople out there may enjoy HSBC Golfing World 2014, World of Tennis, or GAA Hurling Championship 2013.

BUSInESS This month, Bloomberg’s Risk Takers profiles Michelle Rhee, a controversial educational reformer in the United States. Rhee is the head of Students First, an agency that advocates, for example, tying teacher evaluation and pay to student test results. Risk Takers examines her past work for the public school system in Washington DC, and discusses Students First’s influence and legacy. Bloomberg’s Game Changers, meanwhile, profiles Netflix Chief Executive, Reed Hastings. Also on board are Bloomberg Brink,

Enterprise, Eye To Eye, as well as Euronews’ Business Planet, Generation Y and Hi-Tech – all of which cast a cold eye over the world of business.

KIDS Parents might remember Shaun the Sheep from the Wallace and Gromit series; he suffered the ill-effects of some of Wallace’s most memorable inventions. Now kids can watch him galumph around the farm, getting into adventures and avoiding grumpy sheepdog Bitzer. Fans of Shaun may also enjoy Sofia the First, a Disney series about a young princess, charming animated series Tiny Square Critters, or Jake and the Never Land Pirates. Teens may be more inclined to view and enjoy Austin and Ally, a sitcom about a young internet celebrity.

nEWS & EVEntS In addition to our extensive selection of TV shows, Aer Lingus brings you exclusive updates from the 2014 FIFA World Cup, as well as regular local and international news.

trUE DEtECtIVE SEaSOn OnE With an incontestably sparkling record for producing engaging drama, HBO has been making waves in the television market for the last ten years, going so far as to pull our attention from Hollywood with its on the nose, award-winning writing. The latest crime drama to make waves is True Detective, a cop-show with an existential twist - think less coffee and donuts and more philosophical speeches, cans of Lone Star and awkward silences. Most notable is, perhaps, the show’s elite cast, featuring Matthew McConaughey, fresh from his Oscar win, and prolific character actor, Woody Harrel-

hOUSE Of CarDS SEaSOn OnE House of Cards has rapidly become one of the most popular new shows since its debut on Netflix in 2013. Originally set in Britain in the nineties, Netflix’s political whirlwind drama takes place in present-day Washington, D.C. House of Cards is the story of Frank Underwood (played by Kevin Spacey), a Democrat from South Carolina’s 5th Congressional District and House Majority Whip who, after being passed over for appointment as Secretary of State, decides to exact his revenge on those who betrayed him with the help of his equally cunning wife (played by Robin Wright). The show received nine of

VIKIngS SEaSOn OnE History buffs, action lovers and Game of Thrones and Rome fans will appreciate this historical drama, which drops the viewer into the sweaty, violent and gruesome world of Viking Ragnar Lothbrok, one of the best-known mythological Norse heroes and notorious as the infamous enemy of England and France. Ragnar, played by Travis Fimmel, pioneers the first daring raids into England with the support of fellow warriors. His brother Rollo (Clive Standen), and his wife, the shieldmaiden Lagertha (Katheryn Winnick) star as the show’s protagonists. The series beautifully outlines

son. The pair play an odd-couple of police detectives investigating the seventeen year murder spree of a Louisiana serial killer. Marty, played by Harrelson, is the straight man to McConaughey’s idiosyncratic ‘Rust’ Cohle; a man just as likely to spew a nihilistic soliloquy as drunkenly incite a bar brawl. As the show slowly progresses, using a multi-timeline narrative, the mystery of the serial killer, as well as the series of events that has left these two middle aged homicide detectives the broken men they are today, are revealed. In its short run, True Detective has already achieved an obsessive, cult-following and worldwide acclaim amongst the critics. Not bad for only eight episodes.

“Most notable is, perhaps, the show’s elite cast, featuring Matthew McConaughey, fresh from his Oscar win, and prolific character actor, Woody Harrelson.”

Netflix’s fourteen total nominations for the Primetime Emmy Awards. Among its nine nominations were Outstanding Drama Series, Outstanding Lead Actor in a Drama Series for Kevin Spacey, Outstanding Lead Actress in a Drama Series for Robin Wright, and Outstanding Directing for a Drama Series for David Fincher. The show delves into the dark underworld of politics and peels away the layers of what is often brushed under the rug by the mainstream media. This is Kevin Spacey at his finest and one of his most dynamic roles yet. You will be hooked after the first episode.

“The show delves into the dark underworld of politics and peels away the layers of what is often brushed under the rug.”

the trials and tribulations of Ragnar’s band of Viking brothers and his family as he rises to become King of the Viking tribes. His quest is not without conflict. We see his character develop as he strives to live up to his destiny - as well as being a fearless warrior. Ragnar embodies the Norse traditions of devotion to the gods. Nancy DeWolf Smith of The Wall Street Journal noted the “natural and authentic” setting and costumes, and appreciated that vikings was not a celebration of sex and violence, but “a study of character”. vikings appeals on another level - highlighting the inner struggle of a man destined for greatness and the effects of his legacy on those around him.

“The inner struggle of a man destined for greatness and the effects of his legacy on those around him.”

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Aer Lingus is pleased to bring you On Demand Radio to enhance your onboard experience.

Fitzpatrick Hotels


On this special edition of RTÉjr Radio’s The Club, Louise Denvir explores Ireland’s wildlife for the younger ones!

Contemporary easy listening from both sides of the Atlantic brought to you compliments of The Fitzpatrick Hotel Group USA. 3

The Nicky Byrne Show


Ceol na nGael


Join Seán Ó hÉanaigh of RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta, as he brings you traditional Irish and folk music.


Indie Hits



Jazz On The Bay


Documentary on One


Best of Moncrieff Moncrieff is a lively mix of funny, engaging and irreverent issues. Tune in every weekday 1.50-4.30pm on Newstalk 106-108 FM.

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july 2014

Chart Hits Tune in as Chart Hits lifts the lid on the most up-to-the-minute pop hits from both sides of the Atlantic!


The award-winning RTÉ Radio 1 Doc on One brings you two documentaries, “Lions on Tour - The Jersey Returrns” and “In San Francicsco Streets”. 15

The Blue of the Night Presented by Eamonn Lenihan of RTÉ lyric fm, The Blue Of The Night broadcasts a mix of roots, folk, world, ambient and classical music.

Melanie O’Reilly hosts a special programme in this RTÉ Radio 1, PPI award-winning series, capturing the spirit of jazz from San Francisco Bay to Dublin. 13

The Cathal Murray Show Enjoy an exclusive edition of RTÉ Radio 1’s The Weekend on One with Cathal Murray, featuring an eclectic mix of music from all genres.

Opera Night on RTÉ lyric fm brings the world’s great opera from the world’s great opera houses to the greatest theatre of all: your radio! 11

Nova Irish Classic Rock For 60 minutes, Marty Miller is here with some of the greatest rockbands around. Sit back, relax and enjoy your flight!

Listen out for your favourite indie tracks and artists including The Smiths, Wilco and The Black Keys to name but a few! 9

Top Ten Weekday mornings you’ll find Ray Foley & JP Gilbourne on 98FM! Join the boys for the funniest way to wake up in Dublin.

A music driven show from RTÉ 2fm mixed with guests from the world of music, entertainment & TV, presented by Nicky Byrne & Jenny Greene. 5

The Club

Irish Pulse Irish Pulse brings you some of the most famous Irish songs in recent history. Listen out for U2, Thin Lizzy and many more!


Irish Poetry Corner Brian Munn selects and reads verses from renowned Irish Poets: W.B. Yeats, Oliver Goldsmith and Oscar Wilde amongst others.

sh e Iri Fre iskey Wh tings Tas yday! r Eve

27-28 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 +353 (0) 1 675 9744






Ireland’s Whiskey Experts!



Café Grafton Street

Bewley’s Café Grafton Street has been stirring the hearts of a nation for generations. Boasting a rich cultural and architectural heritage, it is also home to the magnificant stained glass windows by renowned artist Harry Clarke.

78/79 Grafton Street, Dublin 2 Phone: 01 672 7720 Email:

Come and enjoy our award winning hand-roasted coffee and delicious freshly baked desserts in a beautiful surrounding.

SAINT STEPHENS GREEN INTERNATIONAL SHIPPING Like us on Facebook @ Celtic-Whiskey-ShopWines-On-The-Green


Follow us on Twitter @Celticwhiskey or @Winesonthegreen


Wellbeing Aer Lingus is pleased to bring you some suggestions and light exercises to enhance your comfort and wellbeing during your flight: Wear loose-fitting clothes on board, to allow your skin to breathe. Stretch your legs by taking a stroll through the cabin. Circle your ankles clockwise and anti-clockwise. Trace the letters of the alphabet with your foot by moving your ankles.

Exercising your feet and legs periodically helps to reduce possible effects of long-duration travel. Avoid sitting or sleeping in the same position for too long and gently stretch muscles to improve your circulation. Move your neck and shoulders during long flights to prevent stiffness.

Reducing the effects of Jet Lag: Avoid heavy food, alcohol, tea or coffee the day before you travel. When you arrive at your destination, try to adjust your activities to the new time zone. Mild exercise on arrival will help to stimulate your circulation.

We wish you an enjoyable experience.

Travel Tips It is important to take time to reduce your risk of getting sick. Various viruses are thought to spread mainly from person to person through coughing, sneezing, or close contact with the flu. Here are some everyday preventative actions you can take to help slow the spread of germs that cause respiratory illness, like flu: Cover your nose and mouth when you cough and sneeze. This will help to prevent the spread of droplets that contain germs. Wash your hands often with soap and water. If soap and water are not available use an alcohol–based hand rub. Avoid touching your eyes, nose and mouth, this can cause the spread of germs. An important step is to get a flu vaccination, especially for elderly people, people with certain chronic health conditions, and pregnant women.

Carry-on baggage Carry-on baggage on Aer Lingus services is restricted to one piece per person, as well as to the weights and measurements, illustrated below.

Passengers with wheelchair requirements Our priority is to always ensure the safety and comfort of all passengers. We encourage passengers who may need assistance to contact us well in advance of their date of travel to enable us to assess their needs. If you are a wheelchair user or require wheelchair assistance when travelling on Aer Lingus services, please advise us of your requirements at least 48 hours in advance, quoting your booking reference number. Our contact details are as follows: email: Telephone: (Ireland) 0818 365 011 09:00 - 17:00 Mon-Fri 10:00 - 16:00 Sat & Sun 10:00 - 16:00 Bank Holidays (UK) 0871 718 20 21 (Europe) + 353 1 886 8333 (USA) 516 622 4222



Maximum weight

48cm (19ins)

10kg 55cm (22ins)

7kg (15 lbs)

(22 lbs)

24cm (9ins)

Maximum weight

40cm (16ins)

20cm (8ins)

33cm (13ins)

In addition you may choose to carry on one of the following, which must be placed under the seat in front: Small ladies handbag/gents satchel = 25cm (10”) x 33cm (13”) x 20cm (8”) OR Duty Free shopping bag as well as: Baby-changing/food bag Medical/assistive devices EU security rules regarding liquids, gels and aerosols in cabin baggage apply. Flights departing the USA are subject to TSA security rules. Passengers in Row 1, or at an emergency exit, MUST store baggage in an overhead bin.

Safety brief We would like to bring your attention to the following safety and security measures: Please pay attention to any instructions given to you by the cabin crew. Any behaviour towards a fellow passenger or cabin crew that is deemed to be threatening or abusive (including the use of offensive language) is a serious matter. As our priority is the safety of all passengers, it is important not to interrupt the cabin crew while they carry out their duties, and not to interfere with aircraft equipment.

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As a service to passengers, alcohol is served in the airport lounges and on board. In the interests of safety, Aer Lingus may refuse to allow you board if it is thought too much alcohol has been consumed. While the majority of passengers are responsible, there have occasionally been incidents where intoxicated passengers have caused serious safety hazards. Passengers are reminded also that during the flight you may not consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or any other passenger.

The consumption inflight of Duty Free alcohol purchased from the Sky Shopping service is also prohibited. This measure is, again, necessary in the interests of flight safety. If incidents of this kind occur during a flight, the cabin crew is obliged to contact police on arrival at your final destination. The Aircraft Captain may also divert the flight enroute in order to remove disruptive passengers. Should this happen, Aer Lingus will not be responsible for getting you

home, your ticket money will not be refunded, and – in addition to the authorities awaiting you on landing – you could be heavily fined and/or be liable to a prison sentence. In many cases, other airlines may subsequently refuse to allow you to fly with them. We emphasise that while on board the aircraft our priority is your safety. As always, we wish you a safe and enjoyable flight, as well as a safe onward journey.

Located in beating heart of Ireland’s thoroughbred County, just one hour from dublin, Whitewater Shopping Centre Newbridge, has become loved for all the right reasons. Offering food, fashion and films with over 70 high-end stores, delicious food outlets and a 6-screen Odeon Cinema, a visit to Whitewater is a must for your trip to Kildare. Discover home-grown Irish design and international fashion labels with brand names such as Carraig Donn, Kilkenny Design, Pamela Scott, M&S, Debenhams, Zara, Karen Millen, Oasis, H&M and New Look to choose from as you peruse the latest collections.

Getting there couldn’t be easier! By Car: Only 30 minutes drive from Dublin. Take M7 from Dublin (main road to Limerick). Leave M7 at Junction 10 signposted for Newbridge and follow the sign into town. Whitewater Shopping Centre is at the top of Newbridge high street.

By Train: Newbridge Train Station, station road, Newbridge, approx 20mins walk to Whitewater Shopping Centre, see for timetables and bookings. By Bus: Bus services available to main street Newbridge, only 3 minutes walk. See for more timetables and bookings.

See for upcoming events and further info.

The National Cathedral of Saint Patrick Dublin

Open Daily For Visitors phone: 01 4539472 | web:

Belfast the Titanic Experience



Open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner LATE OPENING FRIDAY & SATURDAY 51 Dawson Street n Dublin 2 n Phone: 01 6771155



Courtyard Bar & Grill DONNYBROOK

• One-day exclusive luxury tour from Dublin • Every Saturday from March 1-October 25 • Professional driver/guide

• Fast Track entrance to Titanic Experience • Belfast City Tour • Dublin hotel pick-up points • Price €65/€60

Exclusive to Booking and Information +353 (0)42 9378188 or your hotel concierge

Opening Times: Tues-Sat from 5.30pm / Sun from 12.00pm.


Tues/Wed/Thurs/Sun. Last orders at 6.45pm Fri & Sat


1 Belmont Avenue n Donnybrook n Dublin 4 n Tel: 01 5510555

Email: Web:


Route maps



Aberdeen Glasgow


Copenhagen Newcastle Isle of Man Blackpool Hamburg DUBLIN Manchester London Berlin Birmingham HEATHROW Amsterdam Hanover Kerry Cardiff London Dusseldorf SOUTHEND Bristol Bournemouth London GATWICK Brussels Prague Frankfurt Jersey Rennes






Zurich Geneva Lyon

Bordeaux Bilbao

Santiago de Compostela

Toulouse Perpignan Madrid Ibiza

Lisbon Faro




Milan lan

Marseille MALPENSA Nice

Venice Pula Verona Ve Bologna Dubrovnik






Corfu Izmir





Agadir Lanzarote Tenerife

Fuerteventura Gran Canaria

To & From Dublin Austria Vienna

Czech Republic Prague

Belgium Brussels

Denmark Copenhagen

Bulgaria Bourgas

France Bordeaux Lyon Marseille Nice Paris Perpignan Toulouse ■ Rennes

Canary Islands Fuerteventura Gran Canaria Lanzarote Tenerife Croatia Dubrovnik Pula

Germany Berlin Dusseldorf Frankfurt Hamburg Hanover Munich Stuttgart

Ireland ■ Kerry

Poland Warsaw

Sweden Stockholm

Portugal Faro Lisbon

Switzerland Geneva Zurich

Greece Athens Corfu

Italy Bologna Catania Milan (Linate) Milan (Malpensa) Naples Rome Venice Verona

Turkey Izmir

Hungary Budapest

The Netherlands Amsterdam

Spain Alicante Barcelona Bilbao Ibiza Madrid Malaga Palma Santiago de Compostela

Morocco Agadir

United Kingdom Birmingham London (Gatwick) London (Heathrow) Manchester

■ United Kingdom Aberdeen Birmingham Blackpool Bournemouth Bristol Cardiff Edinburgh Glasgow Isle of Man Jersey London Southend Manchester Newcastle

■ Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Stobart Air For more information on schedules, please visit

JULY 2014

| 139






BELFAST Manchester



SHANNON Bristol London Heathrow











Barcelona Palma

Portugal Alicante Faro




Gran Canaria

To & From Belfast, Cork, Shannon & Gatwick FROM BELFAST Flights operate from George Best Belfast City Airport

Portugal Faro Spain Malaga Palma United Kingdom London Heathrow London Gatwick

FROM CORK Belgium Brussels Canary Islands Lanzarote Tenerife Gran Canaria France Nice Paris ■ Rennes Germany Munich

FROM GATWICK Portugal Faro Lisbon Spain Alicante Barcelona Malaga Palma Switzerland Geneva (winter route)

United Kingdom London Heathrow ■ United Kingdom Birmingham Bristol Edinburgh Glasgow Jersey Manchester

Ireland Belfast Dublin Ireland West Airport (Knock)

FROM SHANNON Canary Islands Lanzarote Portugal Faro (winter route) Spain Malaga

United Kingdom London Heathrow ■ United Kingdom Birmingham Edinburgh Manchester

FROM KNOCK United Kingdom London Gatwick

The Netherlands Amsterdam ■ Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Stobart Air

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JULY 2014


Toronto Chicago

Boston New York Newark

San Francisco Shannon



To & From Dublin & Shannon FROM DUBLIN


USA Boston Chicago New York Orlando San Francisco

USA HBoston HNew York

Canada HToronto

Chicago Orlando Newark

(Via New York/Boston with JetBlue)

HAer Lingus flights are available for sale on H Operated for Aer Lingus by AG Air Contractors

JULY 2014

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Calgary Winnipeg Vancouver Seattle Portland OR

Minneapolis Milwaukee



Burbank Long Beach Orange County



Syracuse Ro Rochester

Buffalo lo


Portland ME

BOSTON Pi Pittsburgh Nantucket Philadelphia NEW YORK Des Moines Salt Lake City Newark Indianapolis Columbus Baltimore Cincinnati ncinna WASHINGTON Greensboro Wichita Saint Louis Denver DULLES uis Washington Wa NATIONAL Louisville Lexington Lex Richmond Ri Nashville Tulsa Raleigh - Durham Ra Las Vegas Oklahoma City Charlotte arlo Knoxville Memphis CHICAGO



Grand Rapids



Los Angeles Santa Ana San Diego


Cleveland Dayton on

Dallas (Fort Worth)

Atlanta Savannah



New Orleans

San Antonio

Charleston Jacksonville Orlando

Tampa Fort Myers

West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale Miami

Santo Domingo Kingston

San Juan


Ponce Po

Barbados FLY BETWEEN THE FOLLOWING CITIES VIA DUBLIN, SHANNON, NEW YORK, BOSTON, CHICAGO, TORONTO & SAN FRANCISCO New destinations with Aer Lingus, in partnership with JetBlue, United Airlines and Aer Arann Getting to the US from destinations throughout Europe has never been easier. US, Irish and European based customers can book a single low fare reservation between Ireland, Europe and a wide range of continental US destinations using JFK New York, Boston and Chicago as stopovers. By choosing to fly to the United States via Dublin and Shannon with Aer Lingus, passengers can avail of United States Customs and Immigration Pre-clearance facilities at Terminal 2, Dublin airport.

This facility allows passengers travelling on the majority of US bound flights to clear US immigration and customs before departing Dublin and Shannon. Customers arrive in the US without any further processing requirement allowing for a seamless transfer to their final destination. ■ NEW YORK Connecting with JetBlue at JFK: Passengers travelling from the US to Ireland and Europe will be able to check in bags at the JetBlue domestic departure point and then pick them up again in Shannon or Dublin. Aer Lingus flights operate from T5 John F. Kennedy airport.

■ BOSTON Connecting with JetBlue at Boston Logan International Airport: When you arrive from Dublin or Shannon, proceed directly to Terminal C for your JetBlue domestic departure. Passengers travelling from the US to Ireland and Europe will be able to check in bags at the JetBlue departure point and then pick them up again in Shannon or Dublin. ■ CHICAGO Connecting with United Airlines at O’Hare Chicago International Airport: On arrival at Terminal Five from Dublin or Shannon, make your way to the nearby ATS (Airport Transit System), which runs

every four minutes to your UA domestic departure point. Passengers from the US to Ireland and Europe can check in bags at the UA departure point, then exit security in Chicago O’Hare to take the Airport Transit System to Terminal Five for the onward Aer Lingus flight, and pick up their bags in Shannon or Dublin. ■ DUBLIN Connecting with Aer Lingus Regional (operated by Stobart Air) at Dublin Airport: Aer Lingus’s interline agreement with Aer Arann allows passengers connect to Aer Lingus transatlantic flights via Dublin Airport, where they can through check their luggage directly to their final US destination.

■ SAN FRANCISCO Connecting with United Airlines at San Francisco Airport: Passengers from the US to Ireland and Europe can check in bags at the UA departure point and then pick them up again in Dublin. ■ TORONTO Connecting with Air Canada at Toronto Pearson International Airport: Passengers from Canada to Ireland and Europe can check in bags at the Air Canada departure point and then pick them up again in Dublin.

All routes correct at time of going to press

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JULY 2014


Aberdeen Edinburgh


Newcastle Isle of Man



Shannon Kerry




London SOUTHEND London

Cardiff Bristol






Dusseldorf Brussels Frankfurt

Paris Vienna


Geneva Milan









Palma Alicante Faro

■ VIA DUBLIN with Aer Lingus                          

Alicante Amsterdam Barcelona Berlin Birmingham Brussels Dusseldorf Edinburgh Faro Frankfurt Geneva Hamburg London (Gatwick) London (Heathrow) Madrid Malaga Manchester Milan Linate Milan Malpensa Munich Palma Paris Rome Venice Vienna Warsaw

■ VIA DUBLIN with Aer Lingus Regional         

Aberdeen Bristol Cardiff Edinburgh Glasgow Isle of Man London Southend Newcastle Kerry

■ VIA SHANNON with Aer Lingus  London (Heathrow) ■ VIA SHANNON with Aer Lingus Regional    

Manchester Birmingham Bristol Edinburgh


■ VIA NEW YORK with JetBlue                            

Aguadilla Austin Baltimore Barbados Boston Buffalo Burbank Burlington Charlotte Chicago Denver Fort Lauderdale Fort Myers Houston Jacksonville Kingston Las Vegas Long Beach Los Angeles Nantucket Naples New Orleans Oakland Orlando Phoenix Ponce Portland ME Portland OR

■ Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Stobart Air

              

Raleigh-Durham Rochester Sacramento Salt Lake City San Diego San Francisco San Jose San Juan Santo Domingo Savannah Seattle Stockholm Syracuse Tampa West Palm Beach

■ VIA BOSTON with JetBlue            

Baltimore Buffalo Charleston Charlotte Chicago Dallas Fort Worth Denver Detroit Ford Lauderdale Fort Myers Jacksonville Las Vegas

                         

Long Beach Los Angeles Nantucket New Orleans Newark Oakland Orlando Philadelphia Phoenix Pittsburg Portland OR Raleigh-Durham Richmond Salt Lake City San Diego San Francisco San Jose San Juan Santo Domingo Savannah Seattle Stockholm Tampa Washington (Dulles) Washington(National) West Palm Beach

■ VIA CHICAGO with United to USA  Atlanta

                              

Austin Charlotte Charleston Cincinnati Chicago Cleveland Columbus Dallas (Fort Worth) Dayton Denver Des Moines Detroit Fort Myers Grand Rapids Greensboro Houston Indianapolis Jacksonville Kansas City Knoxville Las Vegas Lexington Los Angeles Louisville Memphis Miami Milwaukee Minneapolis Nashville New Orleans Oklahoma City

                   

Omaha Orange County Phoenix Pittsburgh Portland OR Raleigh-Durham Rochester Sacramento Salt Lake City San Antonio San Diego San Francisco San Jose Santa Ana Seattle St Louis Stockholm Tampa Tulsa Wichita

■ VIA CHICAGO with United to Canada      

Calgary Edmonton Salt Lake City Toronto Vancouver Winnipeg

■ VIA SAN FRANCISCO with United to USA        

Denver Las Vegas Los Angeles Phoenix Portland OR Salt Lake City San Diego Seattle

■ VIA TORONTO with Air Canada       

Calgary Edmonton Halifax Montreal Ottawa Vancouver Winnipeg

■ VIA BOSTON/ NEW YORK with Air Canada  Halifax  Toronto

JULY 2014

| 143




Bahrain Abu Dhabi


Kuala Lumpur Singapore



Abu Dhabi

Muscat Kuala Lumpur Singapore Bahrain Sydney Melbourne Perth

Flights are operated by our codeshare partner, Etihad Airways.

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Perth Sydney Melbourne

Enjoy Wi-Fi and Mobile Onboard your transatlantic flight today* Wi-Fi Onboard Communicate with friends and family, launch your business to new heights or browse your favourite websites as you fly onboard today. You can connect via any Wi-Fi enabled device. Follow these simple steps to get connected.

Switch on Switch on your device when it is safe to do so and connect to the Telekom HotSpot Network. SSID: Aer_Lingus_WiFi

Mobile Network Onboard Text, email and browse the web from the air with our onboard mobile network, AeroMobile. Connect instantly and keep in touch with friends and family through your mobile as you glide across the Atlantic.

Connect Launch or refresh the browser to connect to the Aer Lingus portal. You can browse for free along with some of our partners’ sites.

Purchase Internet Access Click the 'Buy Internet Access' button to purchase a session, then choose a tariff. Your browsing session can last one hour or you can purchase a 24 hour pass.

Payment Select your payment method which is processed via a secure connection. Credit card, roaming or Deutsche Telekom accounts are accepted.

Username and Password

Switch on Switch on your mobile when it is safe to do so and ensure it is in silent or vibrate mode.

Aeromobile Wait for the AeroMobile network signal to appear. If your device does not connect automatically, manually select the AeroMobile network through network settings.

Welcome SMS Once connected you will receive a welcome SMS from AeroMobile. You may also receive a pricing message from your mobile operator. Standard roaming rates apply.

Enter a username and password. You need to remember these if you wish to change device.



Remember: Voice calls are disabled and are not permitted during flight. Remember to manage your settings to avoid automatic data download and incurring roaming charges.

You are now free to browse, email and surf the internet... enjoy!

One hour pass €10.95 | $14.95 24 hour pass €19.95 | $24.95 *A330 aircraft only.

You can now use your phone for SMS, MMS, email, and browsing the internet.

Standard roaming rates apply from your mobile phone operator


Flight Connections




401 - 426



411 407







414 403




















404 402






302 301

TO GAT E S 3 0 1 -3 1 3

309 310

TO GATE S 40 1 -426 311 313





R M IN A L 2

C HL E V E EC L 1 K- I N



JULY 2014











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prior to our visit, friends “of Thankfully, ours in Ireland put us in touch with the team at Emerald. ”

One Pico is an acclaimed award winning restaurant serving modern classic cuisine with innovative touches using the best of Seasonal produce

OPEN 7 DAYS LUNCH & DINNER Set Lunch Menu €24 - Pre Theatre Menu €29 - Set Dinner Menu €45

Ed Golden

Private Chauffeur Guided Tours Exclusive Use Properties

Family Tours

Escorted Tours of Ireland & UK | 1800-550-4162 US/Can Previous awards include: ‘Chef of The Year’ Georgina Campbell Guide, ‘Best Chef’ Irish Restaurant Awards & ‘Best Restaurant’ Dublin’ Food & Wine Magazine

Worldwide Golf Travel | Ryder Cup | Masters | Open Championship | 1800-550-4162 US/Can

5/6 Molesworth Place (located just off St Stephens Green) Dublin 2 Reservations + 353 1 676 0300 e: twitter @OnePicoDublin @_EamonnOReilly

theGREENHOUSE A unique restaurant of understated luxury where menus are simple in format but show Mickael’s distinctive & exciting cooking with flavour, balance and seasonality being paramount

O P E N T U E S D AY T O S AT U R D AY Lunch 12 noon - 2.30pm from €29 Dinner 6.00 - 10.00pm from €60 R E C E N T AWA R D S : ‘Chef of The Year’ Food & Wine Magazine Awards ‘Restaurant of The Year’ Georgina Campbell Guide, & ‘Restaurant of The Year’ McKennas Guide Critically acclaimed by Andy Hayler ‘Elite Traveller’, Marina O’Loughlin ‘The Guardian’ & Frank Bruni ‘The New York Times’

Dawson St, Dublin 2 (located just off St. Stephen’s Green) Reservations + 353 1 676 7015 twitter @_the_GREENHOUSE


Flight Connections






















B49 B48 B47A

B32 B33

B47B B46

T 2B



B44 B35






B43 B42

B36 A19








A21B A23 A26

A24 A25














10 9








19 20




17 18


7 6










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Specializing in advising on U.S. immigration law and drafting U.S. visa applications for: • • • • • FIVE STAR HOSPITALITY IN NATURAL SPLENDOUR Overlooking the picturesque Sheen Falls, just outside the Heritage Town of Kenmare, this 5 star, Relais & Chateaux hotel also features a unique collection of cottages and villas which are perfect for larger gatherings. Situated between the world famous Ring of Kerry and the lesser known, but equally spectacular Ring of Beara, Sheen Falls Lodge offers the best of Irish hospitality in an unsurpassed location.

• • • •

Professionals Executives Investors Intra-company transferees Multi-national managers

Family-based petitions Interns and trainees Artists Outstanding individuals in athletics, business, entertainment and science

Excellent track record representing top Irish companies and individuals. Personal service and fast turnaround assured.


New York T: 212 965-1148

Kilkenny T: 056-7767994




Web: Twitter: @USVisaExpert


Summer Lunches at CHAPTER ONE

Set Lunch Menu served Tuesday to Friday from 12.30pm-2pm €29.00-€36.50

Chapter One – An Irish Food Story Cook book on sale at the restaurant.

“Beautiful classics at reasonable prices” Vogue

Chefs Table available at lunch time with a Six Course Tasting Menu for €50 Reservations 003531 8732266 | Chapter One Restaurant opened in February 1992 with co-proprietors Ross Lewis and Martin Corbett. It is located in the basement of the Dublin Writers Museum on Parnell Square in Dublin’s city centre. Since its opening, Chapter One and its teams in both the kitchen and restaurant have been the recipients of numerous awards for both service and food, including a Michelin star awarded since 2007.

30 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 (Directly opposite Trinity College) 30 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 (Directly opposite Trinity College) Abbeygate street, Galway | T.T.+353 High st. Kilkenny +35311671 6712292 2292

Cloghan Castle


First Class!

10% Discount For CARA Magazine Readers

Book Today - Travel Tomorrow Cliffs of Moher

• Cliffs of Moher & Bunratty • Waterford & Kilkenny • Cork & Blarney Castle • The Giant's Causeway • The Ring of Kerry • The Aran Islands • Connemara & Galway Bay • The Wicklow Mountains


Intl Tel: + 353 91 870102 Email: Proprietor: Micheal H Burke, Chanelle Group Contact us for our Special Offers:

La Cave

Car Free - Care Free TEL:DUBLIN + 353-1-856 0045 e-mail:


loghan Castle is an exclusive, self catering venue ideal for that Fairytale Wedding or Party, the self catering option gives the unique opportunity to tailor your day to have it your way! Banquet Hall can seat up to 120 guests with 7 double bedrooms uniquely decorated giving an authentic castle experience in a luxurious way with central heating throughout. Ceremony and Drinks reception can be held on the battlements, in the courtyard, in our landscaped gardens or in our cosy Drawing Room with an Open Fire.


Blarney Castle and Gardens

American Restaurant & Bar




Ballyhoura Forest Luxury Homes


for one with a main course purchased on production of your boarding pass Terms and conditions apply

BLANCHARDSTOWN CENTRE Dublin 15. Tel: 01 822 5990 ST STEPHENS GREEN Dublin 2. Tel: 01 478 1233 TEMPLE BAR Fleet St, Dublin 2. Tel: 01 672 8975 DUNDRUM TOWN CENTRE Tel: 01 298 7299 SWORDS Airside, Swords, Co Dublin Tel: 01 840 8525 BELFAST Level 2, Victoria Square, Tel: 028 9024 9050

BOOK ONLINE: Quote “CARA” to guarantee a seaview room! Food served all day 8am - 9.30pm Leisure Centre open to non-members Rosscarbery, West Cork, Ireland +353 (0)23 88 48722 On the N71 67km West of Cork city and Airport GPS: N 51° 34.5530, W 9° 01.7361

La Cave




Rent a Luxury Home(s) 4 Star Superior in the Mountains on the Limerick/Clare Border. Sleep 6, 3 Bedrooms, all en-suite


The immediate area is a haven for outdoor pursuits, be it walking, hiking, mountaineering, cycling, mountain biking, golf and a host more...

Michelin Bib Gourmand




Phone: + 353 87 9412165

or email: web: Enjoy living amongst Ireland’s indiginous wildlife

Overlooking beautiful Rosscarbery Bay.... In the heart of West Cork... On the Wild Atlantic Way

with over 135 cafes around the world, there’s always something happening at the hard rock. 12 Fleet Street • Temple Bar • Dublin 2 • Tel: 671 7777 •

28 SOUTH ANNE STREET, DUBLIN 2 tel: +353 (0) 1 679 4409




If you’ve never tried Voya then you really don’t know what you’re missing. Based on Ireland’s Atlantic coast, this certified-organic seaweed beauty product manufacturer has generations of acquired wisdom about the sea. As a result, its beautiful skincare range is designed to delight and purify the body. There’s no better way to fall in love with the brand than with their essential travel kit, exclusive to Aer Lingus, on page 25.



Still searching for the perfect sunglasses? You can stop looking because you’ve just found them. These beautiful shades by Irish designer, Orla Kiely, are classic, chic, stylish and cool. In fact, we’d go so far as to say we don’t think they’ve ever met a face they didn’t like and they could very well be the last pair you ever buy. Best bit of all? Purchase them today and you’ll save an amazing €56. Turn to page 57 to find out more. NEW ONBOARD

This month in

boutique Five super summer essentials and five great reasons to get your shop on in Boutique, the luxury shopping guide from Aer Lingus. TRAVEL EXCLUSIVE

SAVE ¤10!

Go on, admit it, you forgot the speaker, didn’t you. Yes, you meant to pack it, but it’s actually still sitting on the hall table and you’re halfway to Tenerife. What are you going to do? Suffer in silence your entire holiday? Not if you pick up the Doubleblaster Wireless Stereo Speaker from BoomPods. Plug and play, or go wireless, because this device allows you to stream music from any Bluetooth-enabled device up to 10 metres away. Crisis averted, it’s on page 58.


Capture your summer holiday on real film (like the good old days) with this brilliant little 35mm waterproof camera. Shock-proof, it can also be used underwater to a depth of three metres. Best bit is it comes with its own film and it’s just €12. Handy, no? Check it out on page 60. Smile!


If you pack only one hairbrush for your holidays, do yourself a favour and make it a Compact Style by Tangle Teezer. This little beauty bargain (it’s just €12) fits perfectly into the palm of your hand and glides through even the curliest / knottiest of hair, making it perfect for all the family. All you need to know is on page 26 of Boutique. Happy shopping.


Check out the new issue of Boutique (look, it’s right in front of you!). Better brands, bigger savings, shop to your heart’s content without having to get out of your seat. Perfect.


A space odyssey Young Irish coders were invited to San Francisco to share their skills. It made Emily Ray feel like a celebrity. y name is Emily Ray. I am 13 years old and a member of CIT Blackrock Castle Observatory CoderDojo in Cork, where we learn to code and share our knowledge with other members. It’s great fun. Myself and four of my CoderDojo friends, Andrew, Ruth, Matt and Áine, had the honour of being invited to visit San Francisco by its Mayor, Ed Lee, to share our coding skills and to encourage CoderDojo classes in San Francisco. Aer Lingus kindly sponsored our flights and fantastic events were organised by the mayor’s office, Blackrock Castle and both twinning committees in Cork and San Francisco. These included the Academy of Sciences, Tiny Co., the Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco City Hall, the Exploratorium, the Boudin Bakery, GitHub, Alcatraz and John Foley’s Irish bar. They had organised a trip of a lifetime. That morning I woke full of excitement and nerves. We all met at Dublin airport; I was a little scared as I had never spent so long away


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from home but knowing we were off to San Francisco filled us all with joy. Because it was the inaugural flight from Dublin to San Francisco we were invited to an Aer Lingus reception and, wow, did we feel important when we met the airline’s CEO Christoph Mueller and the Minister for Jobs, Enterprise and Innovation, Richard Bruton. All this just added to the excitement of heading to one of the most amazing cities in the USA. On the plane there was a great buzz as we were the first people to take an astronomical image on a plane over the Wi-Fi. We were using the robotic telescope in San Francisco as part of Project Tara. Project Tara was set up so that astronomers at the science centre in Blackrock Castle and their visiting schools could observe night-time space by day in Ireland because of the time difference between Ireland and California (and as we get a lot more cloud in Ireland!). It was a tiny bit of magic but for us at CoderDojo, coding always brings a bit of magic. In no time, or so it seemed, we were in San Francisco.

San Francisco bound, above, the California Academy of Sciences where Emily and Co worked their coding magic and, top, clockwise from left, Emily Ray, Áine O’Neill, Aer Lingus cabin crew member Grace Mulcahy, Matt Mallen, Andrew Barrett and Ruth Whelan.

Do you have a Trip of a Lifetime story about an Aer Lingus destination? Please send it to tripofalifetime@ at not more than 600 words with a portrait shot of yourself. The editor’s decision is final.

One of my highlights was the California Academy of Sciences, where we had a CoderDojo session with our new San Franciscan friends. We used the astronomical images we took on the plane for the background of the games we made called Save the Galaxy. We showed them how to make it on Scratch. They did their own drawings and went as crazy as they wanted with the coding. ABC News videoed us and we were on the local San Franciscan news. We felt like celebrities. Mayor Lee joined us and the kids showed him the games they had made. We took photos with the Mayor and he made that day CoderDojo Day. We were given a tour afterwards of the living roof, which I loved, the indoor rainforest, the aquarium and the earthquake simulators which were awesome. The Academy of Sciences was a wonderful and amazing place that everyone should visit. I love San Francisco. It is a beautiful city and I hope to visit again. I want to thank a lot of people who made this trip so wonderful: Aer Lingus, Mayor Lee, Una Fallon, our wonderful chaperones, Adrian, Clair and Alan at Blackrock Castle who looked after us so well but, most of all, my CoderDojo friends who made it a trip of a lifetime that I will never forget.

Looking to invest in a rental property in Ireland? Whethe your livin Whether living in Ireland or an Irish or British citi citizen living abroad permanent tsb could have the mortgage for you.

Talk to permanent tsb about a Buy to Let Mortgage today 1890 500 218

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WARNING: YOUR HOME IS AT RISK IF YOU DO NOT KEEP UP PAYMENTS ON A MORTGAGE OR ANY LOAN SECURED ON IT. WARNING: THE PAYMENT RATES ON THIS HOUSING LOAN MAY BE ADJUSTED BY THE LENDER FROM TIME TO TIME. Lending criteria, terms, conditions and other restrictions apply. Applicants must be aged 18 years or over. Security and insurance are required. Normally subject to other lending criteria and assessment. The maximum loan to value (LTV) for Resident Buy to Let Customers is 75% and Non-Resident Buy to Let Customers is 60%. For Resident Buy–To-Let Customers, lending levels are subject to a total monthly repayment commitment typically not exceeding 35% of disposable income; however this percentage will vary depending on the individual circumstances. A non-resident Buy to Let property mortgage is available to Irish and British Citizens only. For Non Resident Buy–to-Let Customers, lending levels are subject to monthly rental income from the property being a minimum of 1.2 times the stressed principle and interest Mortgage repayment, however this may vary depending on individual circumstances. The stressed principle and interest repayment is based on the applicable interest rate plus 2%. The monthly repayment on a 20 year Loan to Value less than 50% mortgage of €100,000 (Annual Percentage Rate of 5.4%) is €673.84. If interest rates increase by 1% an additional €57.08 would be payable per month. Variable rates may be adjusted by permanent tsb from time to time. Rates correct as of 16/4/14 but are subject to change. permanent tsb p.l.c. is regulated by the Central Bank of Ireland. BMK2877

Cara July 2014  

Aer Lingus in-flight magazine