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February/March 2017 CARA Magazine February/March 2017

COMPLIMENTARY COPY

Y RUGB Ruth Negga

London Irish

IIOXNS S T A N

Six Nations Rugby

Dalkey

Barcelona

Connecticut

Ruth Negga Miami

ACTRESS

Washington DC

Ski Resorts

DALKEY • MIAMI • BARCELONA • CONNECTICUT • WASHINGTON DC


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CONTENTS February/March 2017

88

Check in 05 ARRIVALS We welcome newbies at Dublin Airport’s T2

Welcome to Miami

06 WELCOME The latest Aer Lingus news and routes 09 CHECK IN Our edit of this season’s hottest events, tables and openings 20 OUR TRAVEL NOTEBOOK Offset’s Bren Byrne and Lisa Haran 22 WEEKENDER Paris is child’s play for families, discovers Liz Farsaci 24 SHELF LIFE Bridget Hourican’s bibliophilic beauties 28 5 GOOD REASONS Lucy White’s Edinburgh spotlight

44

30 SCREEN AND HEARD Ed Power pulls focus on Irish cinema in 2017 32

The London Irish

THE LUST LIST Five ways to do Valentine’s Day by Jo Linehan

34 AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO BRUSSELS Suzanne Lynch takes us off the beaten track

Features 26 FAITH IN THE FIELD Six Nations rugby is back – Simon Hick has the scoop 38 A STAR IS BORN Ruth Negga chats to Tony Clayton-Lea about her rise from Limerick to LA

52

44 GOOD MIGRATIONS Cillian O’Connor meets the London Irish 52

Delightful Dalkey

DARLING DALKEY Ingmar Kiang goes coastal in chi-chi South Dublin

62 OLD CITY, NEW DREAMS Barcelona hits Eoin Higgins’ spot 78

THE REST IS HISTORY Lauren Heskin’s Connecticut road trip

88 MIAMI NICE Fionn Davenport and Matt Marriott go with the Flo-rida

62

Barcelona Buzz

Regulars

Business

72

109 BUSINESS & LIFE Simon Carswell on Washington DC

YOU SAY, WE SAY Dive into Daragh Reddin’s great lakes

98 5 SUPER SLOPES Catherine Murphy’s top ten ski resorts

116 A DAY IN THE LIFE Glove maker Paula Rowan gets hands on

106 48 HOURS IN SPLIT Yvonne Gordon’s Dalmatian delights

118 TRAVEL HOT LIST Lisa Hughes rounds up the season’s best exec events, gadgets, hotels and eateries

125 AER LINGUS INFLIGHT On-board info and entertainment 152 TRIP OF A LIFETIME British surfer Andrew Cotton hits the jackpot on the Wild Atlantic Way

120 SLEEPS & EATS Designer Leigh Tucker finds much to love in Porto 122 SIX THINGS I’VE LEARNT NewsWhip CEO Paul Quigley


Welcome to BROWN THOMAS the home of the world’s leading luxury brands... Alaïa • Alexander McQueen • Bottega Veneta Canali • Céline • Chloé • Christian Dior Dolce & Gabbana • Ermenegildo Zegna Givenchy • Gucci • Hermès • Louis Vuitton Marc Jacobs • Saint Laurent Paris Stella McCartney • Tom Ford Valentino • Victoria Beckham

... the very best Irish brands ... Cloon Keen Atelier • Foxford Woollen Mills Heidi Higgins • J.W. Anderson • KDK • Lucy Nagle Louise Kennedy • Mariad Whisker • Mary Gregory Paula Rowan • Richard Malone Sphere One by Lucy Downes • Waterford Crystal

... and the destination for beauty. Armani • Bobbi Brown • CHANEL • Charlotte Tilbury Dior • Jo Malone London • La Prairie • La Mer Laura Mercier • MAC • Nars • Sisley Tom Ford • Yves Saint Laurent


EDITORIAL Editor Lucy White Deputy Editor Eoin Higgins Junior Editor Lauren Heskin Assistant Editor Melanie Mullan Sub-editor Sheila Wayman Contributors Simon Carswell, Tony Clayton-Lea, Liz Farsaci, Yvonne Gordon, Bridget Hourican, Lisa Hughes, Ingmar Kiang, Jo Linehan, Catherine Murphy, Daragh Reddin, Leigh Tucker

CONTRIBUTORS Wexford-born Cillian O’Connor is a writer, editor and consultant based in London. Most recently he served as deputy editor at online men’s style title FashionBeans. com, and has also written for The Sunday Times Style, Business Insider, Business of Fashion, among others. For his Cara debut on page p44, Cillian profiled some of his fellow Irish émigrés making waves in the Big Smoke, from venture capitalists to Michelinstarred chefs to historians.

ART Art Director Clare Meredith Creative Director Bill O’Sullivan ADVERTISING Advertising Manager Corinné Vaughan, +353 (0)1 271 9622; corinne.vaughan@image.ie Advertising Copy Contact Derek Skehan +353 (0)1 855 3855; dereks@typeform.ie ADMINISTRATION Financial Controller Brett Walker Accounts Manager Lisa Dickenson Credit Controller Angela Bennett Chief Executive Officer Clodagh Edwards Editor at Large Laura George Editorial Consultant Ann Reihill BOARD OF DIRECTORS Chairman Patrick Dillon Malone Directors Laura George, Robert Power, Gina Traynor, Raymond Reihill, Sam Power

PRINTING Boylan Print Group ORIGINATION Typeform Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Cedar Communications Limited and Image Publications.

Zara Picken has been working as an illustrator since graduating from university in Bristol. She creates illustrations for editorial, publishing, and advertising for a range of international clients including The Smithsonian, The Guardian and Macmillan Publishing. She lives in Lincoln, England, with her husband, 18-month-old son and studio assistant/ Jack Russell cross, Audrey. For this issue of Cara, Zara has illustrated a map to highlight some of Washington DC’s top attractions on page 114.

CEDAR COMMUNICATIONS LTD CEO Clare Broadbent Business Director Claire Clarke Commercial Director Justine Daly Editor-in-chief Kerry Smith Group art director Jamie McPherson

Janeivy Hilario, aka Neivy, is a photographer based in Stratford, Connecticut. A love for travelling and capturing unique landscapes, he has had photography featured in Time magazine, CBS Local, Tech Insider – and is all over Instagram. He has invested in community building for ExploreCT and Pursuit of Portraits – both social platforms. With a passion for his home state, he proudly takes on showcasing the beautiful sites that Connecticut has to offer – see the results on page 78.

+44 20 7550 8000 www.cedarcom.co.uk 85 Strand, London WC2R 0DW, UK

IMAGE PUBLICATIONS LTD

PUBLISHING COMPANY OF THE YEAR 2013 AND 2014 DIGITAL PRODUCT OF THE YEAR 2016 Image Publications, Unit 3, Block 3, Harbour Square, Crofton Road, Dun Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland, +353 (0)1 280 8415; image.ie Company registration number 56663 © Image Publications Ltd and Cedar Communications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of Aer Lingus, Cedar Communications or Image Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus, Cedar Communications or Image Publications Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from Image Publications Ltd. February/March 2017

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COMPLIMENTARY COPY

NATIONS Y RUGB

Cara magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland. IMAGE Publications Ltd is a member of the Press Council of Ireland and supports the Office of the Press Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit pressombudsman.ie or presscouncil.ie

ACTRESS

Ruth Negga

DALKEY • MIAMI • BARCELONA • CONNECTICUT • WASHINGTON DC

PEFC/16-33-211

ON THE COVER

Ruth Negga by Smallz & Raskind / Contour by Getty Images

Welcome to our new issue! We are to all yours. Feel free e away take this magazin rney. for your onward jou ur yo e lov o als uld We wo l feedback and trave photos via Twitter . @CARAMagazine


WHO? Merel Heering and Elisabetta Bisaro FLYING IN FROM ... Paris and Amsterdam ELISABETTA SAYS ... “I lived in Dublin for ten years so am looking forward to seeing old friends.”

WHO? Amy Fenlon and Alex Maitland FLYING IN FROM ... Isle of Man AMY SAYS ... “It’s our first time in Dublin but we’re going to New York tomorrow so only have the day to explore the city.”

WHO? Ken and Jay MacDonald FLYING IN FROM ... Geneva KEN SAYS ... “We’re just back from a snowboarding trip. I’m here visiting Jay for five days before returning to Sydney.”

ARRIVALS

Game of Thrones fans and makeup artists were greeted by Cara at Dublin’s T2.

WHO? Loic McCluskey & Axel McDonald FLYING IN FROM ... Geneva AXEL SAYS ... “We met in high school. I’m from Australia but I’m here with my band, Jailbirds.”

WORDS BY MELANIE MULLAN/ PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANTHONY WOODS

WHO? Christian and Evan Barrell FLYING IN FROM ... Geneva EVAN SAYS ... ”We’ve been studying in Dublin since September. We’re starting back classes today.”

WHO? Aisling Higgins FLYING IN FROM ... Paris AISLING SAYS ... “I work as a makeup artist in Paris so I’m looking forward to spending a few days at home with friends and family.”

WHO? Rameesha, Ricky and Ian Snell FLYING IN FROM ... Frankfurt IAN SAYS ... “We’re here for three days and the Game of Thrones tour is top of the list.”

WHO? Linda Quirk FLYING IN FROM ... Isle of Man LINDA SAYS ... “I’m only here for the day to see the Irish Houses of Parliament.”

AERLINGUS.COM |

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CARA Magazine February/March 2017

WELCOME ABOARD

The customer is always right, goes the adage – and Aer Lingus is always responding to your valuable feedback to help you travel smarter. elcome on board and thank you for choosing to fly with Aer Lingus today. As spring arrives, our team at Aer Lingus continues to focus on improving your experience as our guests on board. For the past two years we have been carrying out extensive “Voice of the Guest” surveys, to gather feedback on your experience of our service. I’m glad to say that this feedback has been the principal driver of our decisions to enhance and improve the way in which we serve you, our guests. Over this time you’ve told us that you want more schedule choice, you want a faster and more efficient process for checking-in luggage, an upgraded Business Class service, a more accessible loyalty programme and more consistency in the quality of your Aer Lingus experience – to name but a few of your requests. Our team has set about responding to these requirements and so we’ve cut our bag-drop times to under two minutes in Dublin Airport through the introduction of Express Bag Drop kiosks, we’ve overhauled every aspect of the Business Class service, we are currently in the process of bringing

W

you a new-improved loyalty programme as we roll-out AerClub throughout the year, and have added new destinations and extra frequencies on our network. Over an 18-month period, we have also carried out an extensive training programme with 1,600 of our team members to ensure that the service you receive is consistent, no matter where or when you fly Aer Lingus. The overwhelming priority that shines through the survey responses is your desire to be on time. The mission to improve our On-Time-Performance has been the subject of a company-wide programme of change to our operating procedures, and I am happy to report that we are making progress. Aer Lingus has just recently been confirmed as the most punctual major airline at our main base in Dublin Airport for every single month of 2016 and we are committed to achieving an even better punctuality performance in 2017. I would like to thank you for continuing to provide us with your valuable feedback and for flying with Aer Lingus. Chief Operating Officer Mike Rutter Follow us on Twitter @AerLingus

MOST PUNCTUAL AIRLINE Aer Lingus was the most punctual major airline at Dublin Airport for every single month in 2016.

RIGHT TO REPLY Our “Voice of the Guest” survey was key in making improvements to all our services, from Express Bag Drop kiosks to our new loyalty members programme, AerClub.

HOLIDAY! CELEBRATE! This year we’re offering you increased frequencies, and also brand new destination choices: Split from May and Miami from September.

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BLARNEY CASTLE & GARDENS Renowned for bestowing the gift of eloquence

See and feel Ireland’s heritage, built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains. Spend the day exploring the extensive grounds and gardens.

February - 9am - 5pm (Last Admission 4pm) March - 9am - 6pm (Last Admission 5.30pm) www.blarneycastle.ie info@blarneycastle.ie (Only 5 miles from Cork) ■


Find out what’s on, where and when in February and March

JULIA DUNIN

Check in

GOING GREEN This year, Young Blood – The Beat and Voices of Our Generation adds a dash of youthful cool to the traditional St Patrick’s Day fare of parades, floats and bunting. Designed to reflect Ireland’s increasing diversity, the evening of rap, spoken word and hip hop features Rusangano Family, Hare Squead and Stephen James Smith at Dublin’s National Concert Hall on March 18 at 8pm. Simultaneously, at St Patrick’s Cathedral, the 40th anniversary of Steve Reich’s minimal masterpiece, Music for 18 Musicians, is celebrated by Simon Cullen and Somadrone, with synthesisers and specially commissioned light projections being used. nch.ie; stpatricksfestival.ie


STAY

4 BEST LOVE NESTS

Ballynahinch Castle, Co Galway Tucked away in

Connemara, Ballynahinch is the perfect retreat for city slickers. Each room offers stunning views of the picturesque surroundings, while dining here provides its own magical experience. And for couples who play together to stay together: activities include fishing, clay-pigeon shooting and cycling, against the most tranquil of backdrops. B&B from €155pp. ballynahinch-castle.com

Hôtel Regina, Paris

It’s not a trip to the fabled “City of Love” if you don’t see the Eiffel Tower in all its glory, and the luxurious Regina offers views, without the queues, from the windows of its magnifique rooms. Nestled in the heart of the city – in the upscale 1st arrondissement – it boasts a suitably swoony location for a romantic city break, being within walking distance of many of the city’s splendours. Rooms from €231. leshotelsbaverez.com

Portrait Roma, Rome

If you’re looking for an intimate getaway, then this 14-suite boutique bolthole should stir your loins in no time. With super-stylish suites, terrace breakfasts, a guests-only rooftop bar and discreet service, you only have to leave to dine in the recommended nearby restaurants, cafés and bars around the Spanish Steps. Rooms from €432. lungarnocollection.com

40 Winks, London

This “micro boutique hotel” in hip Mile End is the delightful lovechild of interior designer David Carter and a smorgasbord of influences, from Victoriana to Gothic to Italian Renaissance to right-now. It has only two guest rooms but, if whispering sweet nothings starts to get tiresome, go mingle at one of the townhouse’s new “Supernatural” immersive theatre soirées. Rooms from £195. 40winks.org

DAVID HOCKNEY/CHRISTOPHER ISHERWOOD AND DON BACHARDY, 1968/© DAVID HOCKNEY

FITNESS

ART

Yorkshire Mores

Brighten a grey day by experiencing the vibrant warmth of David Hockney at London’s Tate Britain from February 9 to May 29. This eponymous retrospective will display an unprecedented six decades of the Bradford man’s art, much of which was created in California, where he has lived on and off since the 1960s. Many of his notable series will once again be reunited, while never-before-seen work will be unveiled, such as new takes on his classic work Hollywood Hills House 1980. tate.org.uk

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STREET WILES If only for one day (March 5), LA relinquishes its love affair with the automobile as pedestrians, cyclists, joggers and skaters take over 27 kilometres of roadways along the Gold Line for 626 Golden Streets. Participants – ie anyone not using motorised transport – are encouraged to take their time and engage with their community through a series of activity hubs, with music, food and vendor stands along the route. 626goldenstreets.com


Compiled by Laura George, Eoin Higgins, Ingmar Kiang, Melanie Mullan, Nicolina Patin and Lucy White

CULTURE

OF A FASHION

4

HEAD NO. 2 1916, ENLARGED VERSION 1964; THE WORK OF NAUM GABO © NINA & GRAHAM WILLIAMS; PHOTOGRAPHY TATE, LONDON 2016

2 01

Uda, aka PAINTING THE TOWN Irish artist David re metres Duda, has been given a massive 465 squa Life in er: to prepare work for the Streets to Tow ter. Duda New York City show at 4 World Trade Cen World also has a solo exhibition at the adjacent .ie Trade Gallery, open until February 24. duda

B O B B I E HANVE Y

One of the world’s most innovative and critically acclaimed contemporary fashion designers, Derry’s Jonathan W Anderson, will showcase his latest exhibition, Disobedient Bodies, at the The Hepworth Wakefield this March 18 until June 18. A series of sculptures (Barbara Hepworth, Henry Moore, Sarah Lucas, Louise Bourgeois) will feature alongside notable fashion pieces (Issey Miyake, Helmut Lang, as well as his own), to explore how artists and designers play with notions of gender and identity, both of which are an ongoing part of Anderson’s creative practice. Free admission. hepworthwakefield.org

LITERARY

BROUGHT TO

BOOK

Running in various locations around Dún Laoghaire from March 22–26, this year’s Mountains to Sea dlr Book Festival features readings by authors and poets of international renown — among them Joanna Trollope, Mohsin Hamid, Nick Laird, Fanny Howe, Judith Kerr and Michael Longley, above. mountainstosea.ie

COSY PUBS

Star Bars

No bona fide pub lover can afford to miss McGrory’s of Culdaff (mcgrorys.ie) – a truly magical spot, right, in the Co Donegal wilds of the Inishowen peninsula which hosts quality trad sessions as well as visiting international artists from Townes Van Zandt, Kathryn Williams and Arlo Guthrie to Nile Rodgers’ gang, who once played a Halloween gig. If that’s not enough to propel you as far northwards as you can get on this island, picture stepping outside for some fresh air and happening upon a flash of the Northern Lights. With excellent

grub and rooms as well as beats, it’s no wonder this spot holds such a very special place in the hearts (and minds) of the Star Wars crew who partied here after recent filming wrapped. The Coach House and Olde Bar,, aka Wright’s (047 88106), in Glaslough village, Co Monaghan, is off the beaten track (unless you’re lucky enough to be staying a stone’s throw away at Castle Leslie) but well merits a detour. It’s that rare beast – an unscathed time capsule with real heart. Saturday nights are absolutely jammers – sometimes so many locals wedge

themselves in for a dance that they have to seal the doors at ten. That said, when there’s no band playing, there’s no more chilled place for a quiet pint of perfectly pulled black stuff. Probably the very best reason to stop between Dublin and the West, Morrissey’s (057 863 1281) of Abbeyleix, Co Laois,

is old school perfection. On a sunny day there’s a thick dusty haze filling the spaces between memorabilia and patrons; on a rainy day, cast-iron stoves and hot whiskeys warm the soul, and a faint hint of steam rises from customers’ drying woollens (or maybe their nostalgia). John Hinde would drink here.

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DIASPORA

HEAD FIRST Marie Galvin swapped Ireland for Boston, USA, nearly 20 years ago, carving a name for herself as a master milliner. Self-taught – previously, she worked in retail sales and marketing in the fashion eyewear industry – she has furnished the crania of Cher, Alicia Keys, Claire Danes and Taye Diggs, crafting fine, architecturally inspired headwear out of her studio in Boston’s hip South End. mariegalvinmillinery.com

How would you describe your work? Organic structures inspired by architecture and the natural world using choreographyinspired assembly techniques. It’s all about movement, or the perception of movement. How much of an impact does a celebrity endorsement have on business, and which famous head would you love to get your hands on for a bespoke piece? More than exposure, celebrity endorsement adds significant credibility to the brand. I would love to create a piece for actress Eva Green – her portrayal of Vanessa Ives in the TV series Penny Dreadful embodies the image of the ladies I often envision wearing my designs. Is there a specific period in history that provides limitless inspiration? It’s ever evolving. I’m a tad obsessed with pre-Bolshevik Russia ... think Doctor Zhivago and Tolstoy heroines. Pre-war Americana and Art Deco also definitely float my boat. The Chrysler Building on a sunny day – now that’s inspiration.

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Why Boston? It was as far as my plane ticket would take me. But seriously, it’s very much a cosmopolitan city with an amazing music scene and plenty of craic and culture. Summer in Boston is tremendous fun and you can’t beat the weather. What was the biggest culture shock when first moving from Ireland to America? The initial horror: I was underage. Coming from the west of Ireland, the drinking age was always, “If you’re this tall, you can drink in this bar”. The second shock was, unlike Ireland when you’re offered a cup of tea and refuse, you don’t get asked twice. How rude, I thought. In Ireland it’s compulsory to refuse multiple times before you feign grudging acceptance. “Ahhh go on, go on, go on”.

Only the Irish could turn the cup of tea routine into a mini series. What is your neighbourhood like? We live in a converted loft in Fort Point Channel, part of the fast growing Seaport District. I’m lucky to live on Boston’s waterfront, with its wonderful venues, vistas and eateries – I love evening walks with our canine companion, Maxx, along the harbour. Envoy Hotel’s rooftop bar (theenvoyhotel.com) is great for sunsets with a glass of prosecco, and Pastoral Kitchen (pastoralfortpoint.com) for chef Todd’s amazing pizzas, creative dishes and super-friendly bar staff. Your studio/showroom is in South End. Where are your après hotspots? My wintertime favourite is Barcelona (barcelonawinebar.com) for delicious tapas washed down with their amazing wine selection. My summertime favourite is the outdoor bar at Cinquecento (cinquecentoboston.com). Very European atmosphere.

You’ve spent almost two decades in the USA and are in the process of applying for naturalisation. What is the most Irish thing about you after all this time? My sense of humour is wickedly Irish and drenched with sarcasm. Likewise, what is the most Bostonian thing about you? My driving skills – excellent parallelparker coupled with the ability to hurl descriptive adjectives when necessary. A typical Boston driver. How often do you visit Ireland per year and after seeing loved ones, where are your first ports of call? Christmas is my favourite time to go, made all the more fun with my young nieces and nephew. Belleek Castle (belleekcastle.com) in Co Mayo is a must-visit for a hike in the woods followed by afternoon tea. Or a night at the Ice House Hotel (icehousehotel.ie) right on the River Moy. Spa treatments and a soak in their outdoor Jacuzzi, drinking champagne in the rain with an incredible view of the river ... need I say more?


SOMETHING EXTRAORDINARY EVERY DAY Discover more than 90 boutiques with savings of up to 60%*, including Só Collective – a new home for Irish fashion, design and craft – exclusively at Kildare Village, less than an hour from Dublin.

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*on the recommendedretail retailprice. price. ©©Kildare Kildare Village Village 2017 *on the recommended

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ALIZA NISENBAUM, LA TALAVERITA, SUNDAY MORNING NY TIMES, 2016 / COLLECTION OF THE ARTIST / COURTESY T293 GALLERY, ROME AND MARY MARY, GLASGOW

ART

ART V LIFE After a stormy year in American politics, the “individual’s place in a turbulent society” is among the themes explored at the 2017 Whitney Biennial in New York. The highly regarded examination of the state of modern art opens on March 17, with contributions from 63 artists whose work ranges from painting and sculpture to performance and video game design. whitney.org

DANCE

TR PA ICK

R ED

MOND

THEATRE

THE ENDA IS NIGH In a bold statement of intent, the new directorial regime at the Abbey is running two consecutive plays by Enda Walsh (he of David Bowie/Lazarus fame). The curtain rises on Arlington on February 10, followed by Ballyturk from March 3. Both works have had successful outings elsewhere: Arlington was a highlight of last year’s Galway International Arts Festival, while Ballyturk, starring Mikel Murfi, above, debuted at the same event in 2014 before its move to London, where it was ranked in the Guardian’s Top 10 Theatre Shows of the Year. abbeytheatre.ie

Stepping Out

Blurring the boundaries between the traditional and hyper-modern, This is an Irish Dance arrives in Ireland after sell-out success in the US. Choreographed by former Riverdance star Jean Butler and composed by Belfastborn cellist Neil Martin, the duet explores the interplay between dancer and musician. In Dublin, February 8-11, projectartscentre. ie; Limerick, February 17, limetreetheatre. ie; Bray, March 2, mermaidartscentre.ie

FOOD

BEST OF THE WEST On February 3-4, Chamila Manawatta from Mayo’s Mulranny Park Hotel (mulrannyparkhotel.ie) hosts a cookery demo and special dinner menu in the Strand Hotel, Limerick (strandhotellimerick.ie). The following weekend roles are reversed, with the Strand’s Tom Flavin visiting Mulranny — all part of an innovative exchange scheme. Elsewhere, Westport’s Knockranny House (knockrannyhousehotel.ie) and its multi-award winning chef Seamus Commons host a pescatarian weekend on February 10-11 with a tasting menu focusing on seafood and veg, like the crispy kale and truffle number, above.

THAI SOCIETY Ten years ago, Rosa’s was a humble Brick Lane street food operation, though it’s now bringing its

PICNIC TIME Closing off the Irish festival season in true mud-soaked-boots style, Electric Picnic returns for another three days lively take on Thai cuisine to Brixton – its eighth branch in London. The micro-chain’s promise to use local produce of music, food, unfettered socialising and art this September 2-4. Lana Del Rey, LCD Soundsystem and The Chemical Brothers wherever possible extends to the drinks menu, with Brixton Beers Atlantic APA and Electric IPA available exclusively are headlining alongside fringe comedy acts, tasty food stalls, art installations and a pop-up eco-village. electricpicnic.ie at the new outlet. rosasthaicafe.com

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ALLSAINTS

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ANYA

BARBOUR

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BEDECK

CRÊPERIE

ANGÉLIE

CALVIN

KLEIN

DAVID

CLULOW

HINDMARCH · ·

AQUASCUTUM

BEL STAFF CATH

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ARMANI

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CHURCH’S

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CALVIN

COACH

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CRABTREE

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VON

BOSS

OUTLET

HUGO

CLARKS

DIANE

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BOSS

KIDSTON

UNDERWEAR ·

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FURSTENBERG

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BROOKS

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ASICS

BROTHERS

KLEIN

JEANS

&

DIESEL

EVELYN ·

DKNY

DUNNE & CRESCENZI L’OFFICINA · FALKE · FOLLI FOLLIE · FOSSIL · FRENCH CONNECTION FURLA

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GERARD DAREL

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HOME & COOK · HOUR JOULES

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JUICY

KIPLING

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HACKETT

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HEIDI KLUM INTIMATES

LEVI’S

COUTURE

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LINKS

KENNEDY

MOLTON N.PEAL

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BROWN

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K.I.D.S

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KAREN

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COLLECTIVE

THE

KOOPLES

TO G

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LOND ON

PAIN

MILLEN

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KATE

SPADE

PACINI

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STARBUCKS THE

TO M M Y

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LULU

MUSTO

SAVOY ·

NORTH

HILFIGER

BOCH

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L.K.BENNET T

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WATCH

NAPAPIJRI

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PRETTY

TAYLORS

SUPERDRY FACE TUMI

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GUILD ·

L’O CCITANE

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O’

BRIEN’S

NEW

SIGNET

SWAROVSKI

UNDER

STATION

L E C R E US E T

LILY

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YORK

KURT GEIGER

BALLERINAS

THOMAS ·

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COFFEE

NEW

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GUINNESS

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PENHALIGON’S

SARAH

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QUOTIDIEN

MULBERRY

PANDORA

SAMSONITE

VILLEROY

OF

LE ·

· HOBBS

PASSION · JACK WILLS · JAEGER · JIGSAW · JOE’S

SOMETHING EXTRAORDINARY EVERY DAY

L ACOSTE

LOUISE

GUESS

PINK

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BALANCE ·

REISS

JEWELLERS TED

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ARMOUR WOLFORD

BAKER

TIMBERLAND ·

V E R S AC E

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ZWILLING

This list is valid at the time of publishing in February 2017 © Kildare Village 2017 01/17 *on the recommended retail price. © Kildare Village 2017 01/17

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Check in

Breakfast

Joan’s on Third, Los Angeles I love LA. The few months I spent there, when I was working for Gordon Ramsay, was a time of real discovery. I stayed just off Third Street – where everything you could want is just a short walk away. There’s The Apple Pan, where the same staff have been working for more than 30 years, and La Cevicheria, which has permanent bars on the windows. I tried blood clams there – a delicacy so I was told, that were memorable and vile. My go-to favourite is Joan’s on Third, where I often went for breakfast or brunch. The French toast is exactly what you want French toast to be, and a simple twist of maple syrup made it a regular treat for me. joansonthird.com

Lunch

Osteria 44, Rome When I went to Rome it was bursting with beauty, I was overwhelmed by the fact that there was something new to discover around every corner. I quite liked wandering around enjoying the city, seeing the Colosseum and the Spanish Steps in the flesh and falling upon somewhere to eat. Osteria 44 was one of those places. A slick operation in a busy environment. The Truffle Tagliolini, one of the many new varieties of pasta I got to experience while there, has got to be tried, if not for the pasta alone. osteriaquarantaquattro.com

Dinner

FOOD

FOOD FLIGHT Dublin-born chef Anna Haugh has worked in some of London’s most spangled kitchens, including Gordon Ramsay’s London House. She currently leads the kitchen brigade at the super luxe Bob Bob Ricard in Soho – and here reveals her fantasy food trip. 16 |

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Frenchie, Paris I loved living in Paris. I was a poor, cut, burnt and broke chef back then (almost 15 years ago now, but let’s not go there) and worked long hours for a few euro, so didn’t explore the culinary scene until I returned for city breaks years later. I go back to Paris every couple of years now. During one of my trips I went to Frenchie (or “Frenchies” as I can’t help calling it). It was everything I hoped it would be – the food is simple, beautiful and bursting with flavour. They have a tasting menu that changes regularly and I remember being so in love with every course. A stand-out dish was the roasted Anjou pigeon with a roasted fig and a beautiful port sauce. frenchie-restaurant.com

Drinks

El Xampanyet, Barcelona When I first went to Barcelona I wanted to experience something that felt Spanish, not just created for tourists. I wanted to eat tapas from a preserved jar and to drink Cava. El Xampanyet gives you exactly that, it was so good I’ve returned many times since. There is sawdust on the floor and beautiful blue ceramic tiles around the walls. They make their own Cava. It’s traditionally efficient, as all good tapas spots should be. Don’t plan to stay all evening, though, pop in and pop out. +34 933 197 003


Now at Dublin Airport connecting passengers can get a personal assistant It’s called DUB HUB and it’s a very simple mobile service that acts as your companion to get you from your arriving flight to your connecting flight. It couldn’t be easier with:

Free WiFi

No data roaming charges

No log in

No download necessary

DUB HUB is available in Deutsch, English, Español, Français, Gaeilge and Italiano. Simply go to dublinairport.com/dubhub or scan this code.


finder

#CARA VIEW

CHICAGO “My girlfriends and I went to Bridge House Tavern for their last brunch service of the season to celebrate a birthday. The “Wicked Tots” has all of my favourite food items ... and was the envy of all the diners!” Joanne Balbarin, Chicago; @eveldiva

You Fly Smart. You’re social. Make friends with Cara (@CARAMagazine) and Aer Lingus (@AerLingus) on social media and share your destination selfies and holiday snaps via the #CaraViewFinder hashtag. When you see something, share it and you could be in with a chance to get published in Cara magazine.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Chicago twice daily.

AMSTERDAM “My husband and I escaped to Amsterdam in November for a weekend break. We stayed in the wonderful Citizen M hotel, explored the charming, cobbled canal-lined streets, and dined with friends on a converted oil rig anchored outside the city.” Alex Calder, Co Wicklow; @caldalex

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Amsterdam four times daily, and from Shannon daily.

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BARCELONA “This photo was taken on a very sunny morning in Park Güell, where we like to go walking with friends. It’s a running joke that my dog Toro hates having his picture taken with me – he normally does everything to escape it happening. It was a pleasant surprise that we could capture this moment – even though Toro doesn’t look too impressed!” Jennifer Taylor, Barcelona; @jntylr

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Barcelona twice daily.

OVER TO YOU

Discover and share Aer Lingus and Cara destination sights and insights by tagging your public Instagram and Twitter photos #CaraViewFinder


GRAND CANYON “I went to Pennsylvania for my cousins wedding but, because I had never been to America before I wanted to travel around a bit. My brother and I visited Vegas, San Francisco and the Grand Canyon before visiting our family on the East Coast.”

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Los Angeles three times per week, increasing to four times from March.

LOS ANGELES “I wanted to see a different side of Los Angeles, so when I was planning my trip I told my guide that I love street art and walking around neighbourhoods not usually crowded by tourists – so she brought me to Melrose Avenue and Design District in West Hollywood.” Cleo Eleazar, Los Angeles; @cleoe_18

STREET ART BY JEFF AEROSOL

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Los Angeles three times per week, increasing to four times from March.

PARIS “This busy street behind Centre Georges Pompidou was silent, for once, and I felt that this image was an invitation to reflect on my life ... Oh ... and it was the weekend I turned 40!” Charlotte Hamel, Lyon; @ifyouspokefrench

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Paris four times daily, and from Cork up to seven times per week.

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FAVOURITE CITY FOR A MINIBREAK IS ... BREN: London. We try to get over once a year for a non-business weekend and head straight to Ottolenghi Islington – the only eatery where we will gladly queue to get a table. Order sliders, aubergine fries and mac & cheese in Spuntino washed down with their small beers. Pop next door into Gosh! Comics, and then take a browse through Liberty London.

THE MOST EXOTIC PLACE WAS ... LISA: Thailand and Laos – complete shocks to my system. Arriving into Bangkok and jumping on a tuk-tuk was terrifying and exhilarating at the same time. Laos was a very welcome sight after a week of trekking through a rainforest. The night markets and street food were worth the trip alone.

OUR TRAVEL NOTEBOOK

B ren’s strongest holiday memory is of ... “Fuengirola, on the Cost a del Sol, in 1985. The smell of fish cooking The husband and wife team behind Offset Dublin, on charcoals on the BREN BYRNE and LISA HARAN, are as well travelled as beach. H aving blisters they are greedily talented: the former is also an illustrator and the latter, creative director of the annual shindig. on my shoulders. The This February 17-19, the event will play host to maverick Lion Sleep s Tonight photographer Jean-Paul Goude, best known for his work with Grace Jones, and Dan Perri, the film blaring on a mobile title designer behind Star Wars and Taxi disco going up and down Driver. iloveoffset.com the main strip a t night ...”

THE MOST INSPIRING PLACE I’VE VISITED IS ... LISA: After an eight-hour trek to the top of a waterfall in Darwin, Australia, we started to prepare food and the guide told us all to look straight ahead. What a sight – the sun was setting and the sky was bright red, then dozens of fruit bats flew out of the trees, appearing in stark contrast against the sky above a waterfall. It’s imprinted on my brain and no photograph could ever do it justice.

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MY FAVOURITE WORLD CUISINE IS ... LISA: Italian. There is no greater pleasure for us than a plate of fresh pasta on a beautiful piazza. Even a simple tomato salad can be a sensation.

THE BEST HOTEL WE’VE STAYED IN IS ... BREN: Hotel Salvia in Sóller, Mallorca, a few years ago. Beautiful old building, lovely private gardens and pool, a handful of rooms and an honesty bar which, considering it was run by an Irish guy, was a dangerous policy.


Strength in Numbers The Matheson Employment, Pensions and Benefits Group provides expert legal advice on all aspects of the employment relationship. We also advise on all aspects of pension schemes and employee benefits acting for both sponsoring employers and trustees. Our commitment across the group is to provide solution focused practical advice and the highest levels of service. The top tier ranked employment and pensions practice has developed into one of the leading such groups in any law firm in Ireland.

Matheson. The law firm of choice for internationally focused companies and financial institutions doing business in and from Ireland. Contact Bryan Dunne, Head of Employment at bryan.dunne@matheson.com, Brian Buggy, Head of Pensions and Benefits at brian.buggy@matheson.com or your usual contact at Matheson.

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Tier 1 Chambers Europe 2016 Irish Tax Firm of the Year European M&A Tax Deal of the Year International Tax Review 2016 Winner, Eight Deals of the Year, including in M&A, Debt Capital Markets, Loans and Financing Finance Dublin 2016 Financial Times 2012-2016 Matheson is ranked in the FT50 most innovative law firms in Europe 2016. Matheson has also been commended by the Financial Times for innovation in corporate law, finance law, dispute resolution, corporate strategy, human resources, technology and data analytics.

www.matheson.com


GO SMART | PARIS

Enfant Triumph As the city of romance, can Paris deliver for young children, asks Liz Farsaci?

travelled to Paris many times in my younger years, revelling in the romance and excitement of the city with friends and lovers. Thus, when my son recently asked me to take him on holiday, I chose the French capital, as I wanted to go somewhere exciting yet familiar. I was also nervous, though, about how it would go – after all, four-yearolds don’t exactly enjoy aimless wandering and whispering sweet nothings ... I needn’t have feared, however, as the city has numerous attractions for both young and old. On our arrival, we travelled to Hotel La Lanterne (12 Rue de la Montagne Sainte-Geneviève, +33 153 198 839; hotel-la-lanterne. com), which offers rooms from €200. Situated in the Latin Quarter, this boutique hotel is easily accessible and close to a number of attractions – but still manages to remain a paragon of calm and style. The delightful underground pool at the hotel exceeded our expectations. Lit by soft yellow lights, it is ideal for either splashing around with children, or snuggling up with a romantic partner.

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That afternoon, we visited the first of many playgrounds, finding a particularly exciting one in the Jardin du Luxembourg. You have to pay a small fee to enter it but, once you do, it is fun, clean and safe, offering a variety of climbing ropes, swings, slides and other contraptions. The following day, we took MOUSE the metro to the Cité des PROUD Enfants, in La Cité des a bakery offering a Happy quarter of a century! Sciences et de l’Industrie plethora of cakes and Disneyland Paris celebrates its (30 Avenue Corentinconfections. I ordered 25th birthday from March 25, with Cariou, +33 140 057 what has to be the most a jamboree of revamped attractions, 000; cite-sciences.fr), on delicious chocolate including special illumination shows and the north side of Paris. cake I have ever new parades, and also Star Wars takes This is an amazing, tasted, and my son was over the epic rollercoaster, Space interactive science overjoyed with a bag of Mountain. disneylandparis. museum for children multicoloured meringues. co.uk and an absolute mustWe could not, of course, see for anyone with young leave Paris without visiting people. The museum is divided the Eiffel Tower, which we did into different sections, offering the following morning, stopping children the chance to play with at the carousel in the Champs water, work on a construction site de Mars public park – a must for and experiment with light, sound any child – before walking along and shadows. Tickets can only to the tower itself. We satisfied be booked for a 90-minute slot, ourselves with looking up at it, but this is ample opportunity to with promises to climb to the top explore everything. in a few years. From our hotel, we took a On our way to the airport, walk to the nearby Notre Dame my son said he wanted to learn Cathedral and along the way, more French and move to Paris we were delighted to discover immediately. I took that to mean Bertrand’s (10 Rue Lagrange), the holiday was a success.

WHAT TO PACK L’Occitane Solidarity Balm (20ml), €5 at ie.loccitane.com

Tom Ford Lips & Boys Lipstick in Cristianos, €29.75 at tomford.com

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Marc Jacobs Poodle Brooch, €175 at Brown Thomas

Pierre Bourdon French Lover by Frederic Malle (50ml), €120 at Brown Thomas, Grafton Street, Dublin 2

The Little Prince by Antoine de Saint-Expéry, €9.79 at eason.ie

Monsoon Luna Maxi Coat, sale price €99 at uk.monsoon.co.uk

Ciara Silke Floral Scarf, €180 at ciarasilke.com


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TOKYO ITO, CAPITAGREEN © KAI NAKAMURA/TASCHEN

SHELF LIFE

Bridget Hourican gets a birds’ eyeful view of a new photobook, and spies new writing and events.

FICTION A LINE MADE BY WALKING by Sara Baume (Tramp Press, pbk from February 23) Throwing in her art gallery job, Frankie has retreated to her dead grandmother’s creaking house in the country. She is like a rural, Irish, art-obsessed Holden Caulfield or Sylvia Plath – having their kind of wit, sense of alienation and attention to detail, but also our contemporary anxiety about disappearing nature.

CRIME HEADBANGER/SAD BASTARD by Hugo Hamilton (Noexit2 Ace Double, pbk & Kindle from March 23) UK crime publishers No Exit Press are introducing a new series of “classic doubles” (two books in one), including these two seminal novellas from Hugo Hamilton, featuring his hapless, blustering anti-hero, Pat Coyne, who gets caught up in gangland with disastrous consequences for himself and his family.

TRAVEL WALKING THE AMERICAS by Levison Wood (Hodder & Stoughton, hbk & Kindle from February 23) Beginning in the northeastern tip of Mexico, the explorer and former British army officer walks the eight countries of central America before attempting to cross the Darién Gap – billed as “the most intense and brutal 90 kilometres of terrain anywhere on Earth” – into Colombia and South America.

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ROOFTOPS: ISLANDS IN THE SKY BY BOYOUN

KIM AND PHILIP JODIDIO (TASCHEN, HARDCOVER, €49.99)

Roofs of buildings, once simply structural elements providing shelter, are now city spaces in and of themselves, treasured for their capacity to eke out room for living or to bring nature to high above the metropolis. This international selection of rooftops catalogues a new urban dimension. The images of more than 50 bars, restaurants, temporary art installations and gardens testify to the variety of intelligent and exuberant designs that grace city summits, from Sydney to Hong Kong, Oslo to Chicago. Featuring brilliant photography and contemporary illustration, and celebrating both established and rising talents.

ALL WOMAN If you’re in London on the eve of International Women’s Day, head to the British Library for Typesetting Feminism: Virago Press. In 1973, Carmen Callil set up Virago Press to publish influential women’s voices. At the event (March 7, at 7pm), Callil discusses Virago’s journey with publisher Lennie Goodings and Claire Whalley who produced the BBC documentary Virago: Changing the World One Page at a Time. bl.uk

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PODCAST ENTITLED OPINIONS (ABOUT LIFE AND LITERATURE) This provocative title is surely poised to disprove Michael Gove’s opinion that “we’ve had enough of experts”. Presented by Robert Harrison – professor of French and Italian at California’s Stanford University, and who has been called “the most pretentious man in the world” – episodes are typically one-on-one conversations with special guests about select topics or authors about which he or she is especially entitled to an opinion: Philip Gourevitch on Rwanda, poet Maria Stepanova on Putin’s Russia and Werner Herzog on the importance of reading. Not dumbed down, then.


FAITH IN THE FIELD Irish rugby is back in the game for this year’s Six Nations, finds Simon Hick.

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alfway through the 2016 Six Nations things were undoubtedly looking a little gloomy for Irish rugby. The heavy loss to Argentina in the quarter final of the World Cup still lingered in the background, and the subsequent performances against Wales, France and England suggested this was a group that had lost its way. Cut to 2017 and Ireland have thrilling wins over the three Southern Hemisphere heavyweights under their belt, a swashbuckling new style of play and, finally, a group of players that have no reason to fear anybody – not even the All Blacks. Conor Murray, already a senior member of the team at the age of just 27 – and an Aer Lingus

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ambassador – says the main factor behind the turnaround was the influx of young talent that came into the side later in the season. “The guys emerging now,” he says, “they come up through the schools and Irish underage systems and they’re used to winning – and for me that is the biggest thing. Every country has strong, fit lads in their academies, but it’s mentally where you’re gonna see the real difference. There’s a fearlessness about them; their enthusiasm and their confidence are important, but most of all their good habits are proving the difference.” Josh van der Flier, one of the stars of the November series, was born in 1993; Tadhg Furlong, just a year before that; Garry Ringrose was only five years old when Brian O’Driscoll scored his hat trick

in Paris in 2000. This is the first generation of players that only know success and that has changed the chemistry of the team. Ireland have France and England at home in this year’s RBS Six Nations, which runs from February 4 to March 18, and traditionally that means they’ve a better chance of topping the table: in rugby, perhaps more than any other major sport, home support counts. As official airline to the Irish team, Aer Lingus will be bringing players and management to the away games in Cardiff, Edinburgh and Rome, with the experience of Soldier Field, Chicago still fresh in everyone’s mind. Irish sports fans are good when supporting the team at home but sometimes they’re even better abroad. Robbie Henshaw, scorer of the try that sealed the


Opposite, Ireland’s Conor Murray takes on the South Africa Springboks in Cape Town for the first test of the 2016 Irish Rugby Tour. Above, Robbie Henshaw seals victory for Ireland with a try against the New Zealand All Blacks in last year’s Rugby Weekend, presented by IAG, in Chicago.

2023: G’WAN IRELAND A Rugby World Cup is the biggest event, sporting or otherwise, this country could hope to host. For it to succeed, everybody needs to be on board and the early signs, according to Kevin Potts, chief operating officer of the IRFU and the man appointed to direct Ireland’s bid, are encouraging. “All political parties across the island of Ireland are behind this,” Potts notes, which makes it a rather unique project. It’s rare that said parties, in the north and south, get the chance to be involved in something as ambitious and exciting as a World Cup, and the bid team have been amazed by the goodwill shown thus far. It all started when the GAA offered their stadiums and the two governments gave their backing, with support only growing. For example, everyone involved in the oversight board (a body set up to liaise with the Irish government, the Northern Ireland executive and the IRFU), under the chairmanship of Dick Spring, are giving their time and knowledge for free. The images used for the memorable promotional video involving Liam

Neeson were all provided free of charge, and Neeson himself refused to accept pay for his narration skills. In South Africa and France, Ireland are up against two countries that have huge experience hosting major sports events but, as Potts points out, the Ireland bid has a few key strengths of its own. The time zone suits television audiences; our tourism infrastructure is top notch; we have a diaspora of 70 million and we can help World Rugby appeal to the North American market. You can also throw in the language factor, the friendly locals and the beauty of the landscape – but, perhaps most crucial of all … we sure know how to throw a party.

For fixtures and results, log on to rbs6nations.com.

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PHOTOGRAPHY: ©INPHO/BILLY STICKLAND

win in Chicago – and a fellow Aer Lingus ambassador – explains what home advantage means to the players. “It gives the team ten per cent more – to be honest, it feels like you’ve more energy, you feel like you’ve an upper hand on the opposition already”. On the flip side, he says the squad have to alter their preparation when playing away from home to help cope with the hostile atmosphere they’ll face. “In training we try to mimic the noise of an away game by doing silent sessions,” he explains. “We can’t use our voices to communicate, so we have to read each other’s body language on the pitch, read silent gestures and have a more instant understanding of what our teammates are doing.” The recent performances have done more than improve Ireland’s world rankings; they’ve also altered the relationship between the fans and the team. The scale of consistency shown has built a new level of trust and that trust feeds back to the players on the pitch. Ireland don’t win every game but, like a Bruce Springsteen concert, fans go to games in the knowledge they will at the very least see a whole-hearted performance and, according to Murray, that trust has a direct impact on games. “When things get tight on the scoreboard there’s no sense of fatalism, no panic transferring between players and fans. If we do go behind early on, there’s a bit of faith in the team that they can turn it around, which is a really comforting way to go into a game and definitely something you feed off. The crowd know what we’re capable of now”. Traditionally, Irish sportspeople don’t cope well with expectation. After the win over New Zealand, fan talk immediately turned to World Cup finals and Lions tour selections. This group, though, have time on their side; all that can wait. For now, a Six Nations title would do just nicely.

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GO SMART | EDINBURGH

5 Good Reasons

... for a lowlands fling in Edinburgh, finds Lucy White. SOUL VISTA Get an eagle’s-eye view of Edinburgh and beyond from Arthur’s Seat, a 251-metre-high mountain in the vast Holyrood Park located only 1.6 kilometres from Edinburgh Castle. It was formed by an ancient volcano system that became eroded by glaciers millions of years ago and its name is thought to be a reference to King Arthur. These days it’s a magnet for hill walkers and panorama fanciers – for obvious reasons.

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AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to EDIN BURGH daily.

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RIDE LIKE THE WYND Bridges, waterways, castles, coastline, docks, stately homes, mountains, flora, fauna ... Edinburgh has it all and undoubtedly one of the best ways to see the sights is a guided cycling tour. The Tartan Bicycle Company (tartanbiketours. com) offers a comprehensive array of wheelbased gallivants, from half-day to full-day jaunts from £39. There are also e-bike options, or go for the Edinburgh E-Bike Experience (edinburghe-bikeexperience. com), whose three-hour guided “Landscape in the City” tours at £30 cover shorter, more city-focused areas of around 16 kilometres.

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BARDS IN BARS Pints, poetry and prose go together like Scotch whisky and water, and they don’t get much better than as part of the Edinburgh Literary Pub Tour. Led by two professional actors, this lively romp through 300 years of local literature, from Robert Burns to Ian Rankin, takes in several notable watering holes where cock fighting, pimping and penning the odd masterpiece were once de rigueur. Tours cost £12 (online rate) and run every Friday and Sunday; drinks are pay as you go. edinburghliterarypubtour.co.uk

RUB OF THE GREEN Golf and Scotland are as synonymous as neeps and haggis so, if driving a white, dimpled ball across a fairway is your idea of heaven, don’t leave Edinburgh without booking a round at the prestigious Bruntsfield Links course (bruntsfieldlinks.co.uk), whose club proudly dates back to 1761 and is home to the Open qualifiers. Those with a considerably higher handicap but a keen sense of fun may be better off at Paradise Island (adventure-golf-island. com), a sprawling, American-style, crazy golf complex at Fife Leisure Park (fifeleisurepark.co.uk), which even has indoor facilities for damp days.

GROSS-OUT Those strong of stomach will be delightfully disgusted at the exhibits at the Surgeons’ Hall Museums, whose collections have been educating and entertaining a morbidly fascinated public since 1832, but whose artefacts date back to the 17th century. Sherlock fans will love the Arthur Conan Doyle exhibit, while Irish history buffs will “enjoy” the items relating to the graverobbing gruesome twosome, Williams Burke and Hare. The section dedicated to the “Edinburgh Seven” – Britain’s first female medical undergraduates to sit an exam in 1870, which caused riots – is fascinating. museum.rcsed.ac.uk


Bailey Lighthouse, Howth

STUNNING CLIFF WALKS, FRESH SEAFOOD AND BEAUTIFUL SCENERY, MINUTES FROM THE CITY.


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Screen and Heard

The international film awards season climaxes with February’s Oscars, but there are plenty of homegrown gems over the year ahead, says Ed Power. hese are heady days for Irish cinema with emerging talents such as Cara cover star Ruth Negga – see Tony ClaytonLea’s interview on page 38 – and Poldark’s Aidan Turner set to join Oscar nominees Michael Fassbender and Saoirse Ronan on the A-list. Meanwhile, 2017 promises an embarrassment of big-screen riches from Ireland. For instance, Cillian Murphy has taken time out from the BBC’s Peaky Blinders to grace Christopher Nolan’s Second World War epic Dunkirk (July) in addition to playing an IRA operative caught up in a Boston gang war in arthouse action romp Free Fire (March; see highlights, below). Likewise, continuing to conquer Hollywood on her own terms is Saoirse Ronan, who follows the Oscar-shortlisted success of 2015’s Brooklyn (based on the Colm Tóibín novel) with another literary adaptation, as she lends her quietly searing presence to Dominic Cooke’s retelling of Ian McEwan’s novel On Chesil Beach (winter 2017). Meanwhile, Jamie Dornan returns in the second steamy adaptation of the 50 Shades

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series, 50 Shades Darker (February), with Game of Thrones anti-hero Aidan Gillen donning cape and tunic once more for Guy Ritchie’s long-awaited King Arthur: Legend of the Sword (May). Behind the camera, Neil Jordan is about to start working with Liam Neeson on The Trainer, about a horse trainer who bonds with a young boy following tragic turns in both their lives (due in cinemas next year). And 2017 should finally see the release of Jim Sheridan’s adaptation of Sebastian Barry’s The Secret Scripture, with Rooney Mara and Aidan Turner. Among the up-and-comers to keep an eye on is Stag director – and some-time Cara contributor – John Butler, whose coming-ofage drama, Handsome Devil, spins a tale of friendship and rivalry in an elite Dublin rugby school. It will close this year’s Audi Dublin International Film Festival, which runs from February 16-26 (diff.ie; see highlights, below), and also open the Glasgow Film Festival

That’s What I Call Seventies – Cillian Murphy leads the charge in Ben Wheatley’s period thriller Free Fire, top. Above, John Butler’s comingof-age drama Handsome Devil, which will screen at both Dublin and Glasgow film festivals.

(glasgowfilm.org) on February 15, where Gabriel Byrne and Michael Gambon’s new vehicle, Mad to be Normal about the Scottish psychiatrist, RD Laing (played by David Tennant) gets an outing. Education is also the subject matter of In Loco Parentis, Neasa Ní Chianain and David Rane’s absorbing portrait of Ireland’s only remaining “preparatory” boarding primary school at Headfort in Co Meath, which was screened at the prestigious Sundance Film Festival in January.

AUDI DUBLIN INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL HIGHLIGHTS FANTASTIC FLIX from February 10-18, citywide A season of children’s films will be unveiled by author Jacqueline Wilson, who’ll present a Channel 4 adaptation of her book, The Illustrated Mum. Other films to be screened include Red Turtle, a heart-warming animation from the Netherlands, and the Spanish adventure Zip and Zap and the Captain’s Island.

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FREE FIRE February 23, Savoy Cinema Director Ben Wheatley and stars Cillian Murphy and Jack Reynor will attend a screening of this romp set in the 1970s, also featuring Oscar winner for Room, Brie Larson, and Armie “The Lone Ranger” Hammer. It’s a high-tension, high-octane comic thriller – with a riotous 1970s wardrobe to match. The film goes on general release in March.

HANDSOME DEVIL Closing Night Gala, February 26, Savoy Cinema This is the second time that director John Butler closes the festival, his debut The Stag having received the same honour in 2014. Fionn O’Shea and Nicholas Galitzine play mismatched schoolmates who bond over their shared sense of not quite belonging, with Sherlock’s Andrew Scott as a sympathetic teacher.


VOTED ‘BEST HOTEL IN THE WORLD’ 2015 Virtuoso

800 years of history and heritage set in 350 acres, on the picturesque shores of Lough Corrib, Ashford Castle dates back to 1228 and was home to the Guinness family for 70 years. Ashford Castle has been spectacularly transformed and is now home to 83 rooms and suites, a 32 seat cinema, billiards room, six unique dining venues, a wine cellar, state of the art spa and a host of estate activities including falconry, golf, equestrian, fishing and river cruising. Ashford Castle is the ultimate destination for exclusive weddings and events, and is renowned for its generous and warm hospitality.

www.ashfordcastle.com


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The Lust List

ILLUSTRATION BY AOIFE DOOLEY

Let Cupid’s arrow hit the spot this Valentine’s Day, swoons Jo Linehan.

VIENNA, AUSTRIA For First Daters For those on the brink of falling truly, madly, deeply, take inspiration from the film Before Sunrise and embrace Vienna’s sweet allure. While away the hours under the chandeliers in Café Diglas (diglas.at) before taking a Fiaker horse carriage to Prater – a giant, leafy amusement park – where a sunset spin on the Wiener Riesenrad vintage Ferris wheel (wien.info) serves as the ultimate indie romcom homage.

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ROME, ITALY For Newlyweds Keep the embers of lurve burning bright with the perfect Roman holiday. Fill up on fresh pastries and champagne at hip diner Necci dal 1924 (necci1924. com), then do a private, guided Vintage Tour for Two in a classic, 1969era Fiat 500 (withlocals. com), swooning as much at the sights as each other. End the day, hand in hand, wishing on stars and constellations at the Astronomical Observatory. Now that’s amore.

PARIS, FRANCE For Long-Term Lovers For couples in need of rekindling the aul’ flames, book a stay at Le Roch (leroch-hotel.com), a delectable boutique hotel nestled between the Louvre and Opéra. Book a couples massage in the spa – the pool is so sexy it’s lit with candles – and then, suitably unwound, wander to nearby Verjus (verjusparis.com), a hidden kitchen on Rue de Richelieu, for the meal of a lifetime. Flying sparks guaranteed.

LOS ANGELES, USA For the Brokenhearted Soulmates. Who needs ’em anyway? Mend that broken heart at Birds restaurant in Hollywood (birdshollywood.com), where their annual AntiValentine’s Day Party encourages the newly single to mourn with tableside voodoo dolls, prizes for the saddest break-up story, a killer soundtrack and comfort food aplenty. Or – drown your sorrows over the best cocktails in town at Silver Lake’s 4100 Bar.

NEW YORK, USA For Singles Ready to Mingle NYC’s meet-cute possibilities are endless, so for those of you who are itching to get back on the dating scene, make a date with the Big Apple this February 11 and 14. Check out The Amazing Valentine’s Day Scavenger Hunt, part scavenge, part obstacle course which leads you, via clues and challenges, all over Manhattan. Sign up with a wingman/woman or go it alone and let fate take the lead. pogoevents.com


RE-OPENING MARCH 2017

FIND OUT MORE AT JAMESONWHISKEY.COM


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Head to Brussels’ centuries-old antiques district in MAROLLES, just below the Palais de Justice. Visit on Sunday when most of the city’s stores are closed for the day. Pick up some quirky knick-knacks at the flea market in Jeu de Balle, or choose a bespoke Art Nouveau piece in one of the many antique stores that line Rue Haute and Rue Blaes.

AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO

BRUSSELS Suzanne Lynch cherry-picks her favourite haunts in the Belgian capital. No trip to Brussels would be complete without a visit to the EU institutions, which have arguably put Brussels on the map. Take the metro to Schumann to see the impressive EUROPEAN COMMISSION and council headquarters. A visit to Parlamentarium, the European Parliament’s visitors’ centre, is a great way to learn how the EU works. (Rue Wiertz 60; europarl.europa.eu)

The SABLON area of Brussels is one of the best places to sample some of the city’s finest chocolate. Visit one of Pierre Marcolini’s lavish stores (Rue des Minimes 1, +32 2 514 1206; marcolini.com) or the more understated Frederic Blondeel around the corner and one of the best chocolatiers in the city (Rue de la Paille 32; frederic-blondeel.be).

MORE ABOUT SUZANNE Suzanne has been working as The Irish Times’ European correspondent in Brussels for four years – and is moving stateside this February to be its Washington attaché. “Brussels is a great place to live,” she says, “with a fantastic mix of expats and locals. It’s also a great base to explore the rest of Europe.”

CHEZ FRANZ is one of my favourite Sunday brunch locations. A café by day and a hipster bar by night, it’s a good place for a midweek drink. Well off the tourist trail, it’s a popular haunt with Belgians and expats. (Chez Franz, Avenue du Haut-Pont 30, +32 2 347 4212; chezfranz.com)

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to BRUSSELS daily.

DON’T MISS

Located within the cavernous surroundings of an 18th-century bank, the brasserie-style restaurant BELGA QUEEN is a must. For a quick bite, you can also take a seat at the lavish oyster bar. (Rue du Fossé aux Loups 32, +32 2 217 2187; belgaqueen.be)

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Paying tribute to Brussels’ most famous Surrealist painter: René Magritte, the MAGRITTE MUSEUM contains more than 200 works charting the painter’s life and career. (Rue de la Régence 3, +32 2 508 3211; musee-magritte-museum.be)

The streets of the CHATELÂIN area are lined with stunning Art Nouveau buildings and restaurants. Stop for an evening glass of wine at the Winery (Place Brugmann, +32 2 345 47 17; winery.be) on one of the city’s most elegant squares.


Over 70 million people around the world claim direct descent from Irish emigrants who left our shores and set out to distant lands on epic journeys. At EPIC in Dublin’s Docklands you can take an interactive journey of discovery to find out why they left, see how they influenced the world they found, and experience the connection between their descendants and Ireland today. Open daily 10am - 5pm.

Visit www.epicchq.com or call +353 (0)1 906 0861 to book your tickets.


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A

r a t Sis born This is likely to be the year that changes everything for Irish-Ethiopian actor Ruth Negga, who has wowed audiences with her performance in the US indie film Loving. We catch up with the Limerick girl before she hits the big time.

SMALLZ & RASKIND / CONTOUR BY GETTY IMAGES

WORDS TONY CLAYTON-LEA

R

uth Negga looks so compact and anchored sitting in a large sofa chair, covered from neck to toe in very stylish, dark clothes, that she seems like a small statue in need of sightseers or admirers. Certainly, the Irish-Ethiopian actor has no shortage of the latter, as her profile has risen so much in the past few months that it would take an earthquake to bring it crashing to the ground. It has been a much deserved increase in recognition too – for the past ten years, 35-year-old Negga has been chipping away with small parts in movies and television series. Always identifiable because of her classic looks – as well as a style so original that if she were to bottle it she could easily retire on the proceeds – there was nonetheless a feeling that she was always better than some of the material she worked with.


INTERVIEW

Signs of imminent crossover success were there (seasons one and two of the gritty Irish crime drama series, Love/Hate; her fiery, nuanced portrayal of the Welsh singer, Shirley Bassey, in the 2011 BBC television movie, Shirley), but it now seems a certified bet that her time in the spotlight has well and truly arrived. The reason for this is Loving, a US independent film that has been wowing critics and audiences with its simmering, tense, true-life story of interracial marriage in 1950s/1960s segregated USA. As Mildred Loving, the black wife of white construction worker, Richard, Negga’s poised and economic central performance holds everything together. The saying that cream will always rise to the top is apt: with a Golden Globe (Best Actress, Movie Drama) nomination already in the bag – and possibly an Oscar and a BAFTA Rising Star win by the time you’re reading this – it’s safe 40 |

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“I wanted to be the boss of myself, and that’s where acting came in”

to assume that she will view 2017 as the year that changed everything for her. It is, Negga agrees, a long way from an outsider childhood growing up in Co Limerick. And yet, she says, clearing her throat as if to emphasise the importance of what comes next, there has never been a plan. “I never really thought about how I would go from there to here,” she reveals in an Irish accent, with English and American inflections, while repeatedly fiddling with a plastic bottle ring between her thumbs and forefingers. “I just know I had always wanted to be an actor, to the point where I didn’t consider anything else. So I didn’t do any of the weekend children’s acting

In the film Loving, Ruth Negga and Joel Edgerton, above, play a real-life couple Mildred and Richard Loving, whose interracial marriage in the 1950s became a symbol of the American civil rights movement.

classes or school things – I wasn’t interested in that because I wanted to get straight into it. I was quite an impatient teenager – I wanted to get out of being a teenager, I wanted to get on with life.” In the mid-1980s, at the age of four, Negga arrived in Ireland, the daughter of an Irish nurse and an Ethiopian doctor. (Ask for further biographical details and she says her memory is vague about such things.) Aside from a BA in acting studies at Trinity College Dublin, her decision to cut out extraneous academic endeavours – “I wanted to be the boss of myself, and that’s where acting came in. In many ways, it takes you to an unknown place, and I liked that from the very beginning” – brought her much quicker to where she wanted to be. Her formative teenage inspirations were the acting and music of David Bowie (“a man unafraid to be who he was”) and the black consciousness writings of people such as Maya Angelou and James Baldwin. “I grew up in a very white community in Limerick and a part of me was clearly looking for some kind of self-identification, a reaffirmation of myself,” she explains. “As a child, you look for reflections of yourself and I found that in those authors. Black writing found a home in me and I found a home in it. But not to the detriment of Irish writers – as a teenager, I read Roddy Doyle and Pat McCabe, and many others, so I was also very much aware of my Irish heritage.” Was she searching for pieces of her own puzzle? “That’s a good way of putting it,” she allows. “I went to a lot of theatre when I was growing up, because my mother took me to it, but film and music are also immediate, aren’t they?” She remarks that the merging of Bowie’s refusal to be pigeonholed and the sense of identity she absorbed from reading, aided


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INTERVIEW

her path to becoming an actor. Expressing her inner creativity and conflict also confirmed the view of herself as being an outsider. “Being Irish-Ethiopian, I think you know from an early age that you’re an outsider, yet being that isn’t necessarily a bad thing. There was something about it that I rather enjoyed. I’m not sure why but I felt very special when I was a child, growing up in Limerick. But there’s something good about describing yourself as something first, before someone else does – you’re championing it, aren’t you? For many, regarding yourself as an outsider is a safe space in which to be creatively unsafe.” Unusually for people in her chosen career (which includes her partner of seven years, British actor Dominic Cooper), she seems unconcerned about feverishly chasing work. If the freelance actor’s anxious mantra is ‘where’s my next gig?’, then Negga’s is the opposite. “Oh, I can’t jump from one job to the next, and nor would I want to,” she admits with mild surprise. “I don’t have prolific work ethic, or a a prolific need to be working all of the time. I quite like, literally, to stare out of windows. I like going home and doing nothing That’s for weeks. That’s important for me because I think I need to get my energy back. I don’t enjoy working in a depleted way; it doesn’t do anyone any favours, does it?” Throughout Loving, Negga applies the principle of less is more, often employing a silent expressiveness 42 |

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Lustre for life – Negga in shimmering Louis Vuitton, below, at the 74th annual Golden Globes event in January.

that really does speak volumes. “Physicality is something ever more truthful than verbal communication,” she reasons, “and I’m interested in that kind of dichotomy. You can say something, but your face can be expressing something completely different. Or they can be totally in sync. The great thing about acting is that nothing happens in isolation.” Such understanding of her chosen art form is, perhaps, the motivation behind Negga choosing her work so carefully, sparingly. She is also, possibly, more cautious these days now that her face is so well known, but then that’s what being on the cover of US Vogue does to a person. In a deft instance of narrative symmetry, she references David Bowie’s ability to escape people’s profi ling. profiling. She takes a similar approach with her acting roles across fi lm, film, stage and television. From Breakfast on Pluto (2005) to Loving, from Phèdre at London’s National Th eatre (2009) to Playboy of the Theatre Western World at the Old Vic

(2011), from Love/Hate to her current, much praised TV gig in the American fantasy/drama series, Preacher (in which she co-stars with her partner Cooper), Negga has continually reinforced her creative diversity. Mr Bowie would surely approve. “I admired his elusiveness,” she beams, which could be a feasible enough reason behind the vagueness of her own biographical chronology, “and I’m uncomfortable with people trying to define me.” We’ll leave it there, then, but not before expressing the truth the way we see it: Ruth Negga is a superb, self-possessed actor looking 2017 in the face with lots of eye contact and no drama. “Art is beautiful escapism,” she concludes calmly, rising out of the large sofa chair, dark clothes enveloping her slim frame, dropping the plastic bottle ring onto the floor, “and I’m reluctant to simplify it.” Loving goes on general cinema release on February 3.

Ruth Negga is loving.. BOOKS “I’ve just finished finished Swing Time by Zadie Smith, and I’m currently reading WG Sebald’s Austerlitz. It came out in 2001 but I’m only reading it now – in fact, I literally started the first first page today. I love reading books – except when I’m filming, filming, which is when I can’t read anything except the script!” FILMS “I’m looking forward to going to movies that I see

actors promote on the circuit – films such as Moonlight, Arrival, Paterson, Jackie, 20th Century Women … I need to catch up, although I recently watched again my favourite movie – Mystery Train, by Jim Jarmusch, who directed Paterson.”

MUSIC “I always listen to RTÉ Radio One either in the morning or evening, so it’s between Cathal Murray’s show at night and Philip King’s South Wind Blows show. I’m looking forward to being able to go to a gig. I was at Other Voices in Dingle in 2015 and it was brilliant.”


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The Social Historian

WHO Emma Dabiri WHAT Writer, broadcaster and teaching fellow in the Africa department of the University of London’s School of Oriental and African Studies Emma Dabiri is a true third culture kid. Born in Dublin to a Nigerian-Irish father and an Irish-Trinidadian mother, she spent a four-year stint in Atlanta, Georgia as a child, returned to Ireland and then – eager to enrol in an African Studies course at the University of London’s SOAS – set her sights on the British capital. “I remember looking at people I grew up with going into things like IT and thinking ‘Feck! I’m never going to be able to get work in that kind of industry – I’d just be really rubbish at it’.” Not that she’s had to, of course; since graduating from SOAS she’s established herself as a social historian, won a teaching fellowship, written for The Guardian, become a visual sociology PhD researcher at Goldsmiths, copresented BBC’s Back in Time for Brixton as part of its month-long Black and British season and recently landed her first book deal with Penguin. Why London? “It’s like this meeting place for misfits, so there are opportunities to forge friendships with others like me, who maybe for various reasons didn’t fit in the places they’ve come from. That said, there’s a lot I miss about Dublin: the banter, a refreshing irreverence and charm you can’t find anywhere else – I love that.” MY LONDON DOWNTIME “I love the Wellcome Collection on Euston Road. Their exhibitions often have a medical focus, as befits the nature of the trust, and tend towards the peculiar, esoteric or taboo. I also like

unusual shops, such as J Glinert. I’ve a penchant for stationery and they have lots of lovely bits and pieces. It’s also a great spot for literature on Hackney’s history.”

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GOOD

Migrations

London has long been a draw for Irish emigrants. And while its streets are not always paved with gold, the British capital has nonetheless created a fantastic platform for this young diaspora. WORDS CILLIAN O’CONNOR PHOTOGRAPHS STEVE RYAN

hen a man is tired of London, he is tired of life.” English writer Samuel Johnson might have coined his well-worn ode to London and all it has to offer back in 1777, but it still rings true for an entire generation of Irish expats today. Despite rising rents, increasing living costs and a changed political climate after last year’s Brexit referendum, the Irish continue to arrive in London in their droves. In fact, recent statistics suggest that a quarter of all Irish emigrants come to Britain, with many of them staying in the capital.

"W

“There’s no getting around the fact that the result of the Brexit referendum was sorely disappointing, but living in London still offers me both personal and professional opportunities that I couldn’t find at home,” says Anna Kealey, who first left Dublin for New York, then in 2014 decamped to London where she now works in new market development for online marketplace Etsy. She’s just one of many Irish men and women who’ve taken the plunge by crossing the water, leaving behind the comforts of home for the exciting prospects of pastures new. Here, we profile six expats making it big in the Big Smoke. AERLINGUS.COM |

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PEOPLE | THE LONDON IRISH

The Multi-tasker WHO Chris Singleton WHAT Musician, director at Style Factory and head of digital at Prescription PR Dublin-born singer-songwriter Chris Singleton has so much to say about London that he wrote an entire album about it. Twisted City, his 2006 debut solo release, was loosely conceived around the idea of a Tube journey through the city. “Each song is about a particular place, person or experience. We launched it by gigging on the Tube, then we did a show on an old Routemaster bus, one on a boat and one that toured the different stops on the British Monopoly board.” Today, Singleton splits his time between music and digital media. He blogs for music PR agency Prescription PR (prescriptionmusicpruk.com), runs

his own digital communications consultancy, Style Factory (stylefactoryproductions.com), and somehow squeezes in the time to front new London-based band, Five Grand Stereo, with whom he plans to release an album this year. Has London been good to him? “For Irish musicians, having some sort of success in London is quite useful, it instantly gets people taking you more seriously. There are more opportunities over here – there’s not a lot that you can’t do, or find, in London.” MY LONDON DOWNTIME “My favourite place is Greenwich – there’s so much to see there, from the Royal Observatory to the National Maritime Museum to the Naval College. It’s a beautiful, historic spot, packed full of good bars and restaurants – and you can go there on a boat.”

The Star Chef WHO Colin Kelly WHAT Co-founder of the Picture restaurants Fitzrovia and Marylebone There aren’t many chefs who can boast about being awarded a Michelin star at the tender age of 27, but Tullamore man Colin Kelly is one of them. At the time, he was working under the legendary Anthony Demetre at Wild Honey, the celebrated Mayfair restaurant known for dishing up five-star food at affordable prices. Now he mans his own ship: the Picture restaurants in Fitzrovia and Marylebone (picturerestaurant.co.uk); friendly, neighbourhood-style eateries that he co-founded with two others and where he serves up sharing plates of seasonal British fare. “The biggest challenge when I moved to London was missing the life I had left behind in Ireland. I went

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from living in an amazing flat, working a well-paid job that I loved and being surrounded by family and friends, to sleeping on a friend-of-a-friend’s sofa, working 16 hours a day and barely being able to afford a pint! But I was determined to make it work and it did eventually become easier.” For Kelly, it’s seeing satisfied customers that makes him tick. “The feeling you have when you cross the threshold every morning is so special and when you see happy customers having a great time in your restaurant, it makes all the hard work worth it.” MY LONDON DOWNTIME “My girlfriend and I love London’s parks, for picnics and letting our 18-monthold daughter run around. Wimbledon has the lot: tennis courts, a lake, a playground and a top café.”


PEOPLE | THE LONDON IRISH

The Star Bakers

WHO Johanna and Aoife Ledwidge WHAT Founders of J+A Café

Sisters Johanna and Aoife Ledwidge might be best known for their hearty Irish-style food served up at their J+A Cafés (jandacafe.com) – and beloved of the likes of the late, great Alexander McQueen – but it was art that originally tempted them over to London. “The city’s colleges – the Chelsea College of Arts and Central Saint Martins – initially drew us over, along with the freedom, diversity and range of museums and galleries that London offers,” says Aoife. Despite studying design, the sisters decided to channel their creativity into starting what is now one of Clerkenwell’s top-rated cafés. “We launched in 2008, before the City’s café boom and right at the beginning of the recession,” explains Johanna, “so we wanted J+A to be a place

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where people could come to be comforted by good food – a place where you could rely on getting good-quality tea and coffee, traditional cooked breakfasts, a hearty and wholesome lunch, freshly-baked bread and cakes, good, old-fashioned Irish home cooking and baking – [the stuff we] longed for being away from home.” Londoners, it seems, just can’t get enough of it. Last year saw the pair launch their second outpost on Old Street and there are plans to expand the business further in 2017. “We didn’t for a second expect it to grow into the success it is today,” admits Aoife. OUR LONDON DOWNTIME “We love the V&A Museum, and also browsing the new collections at Liberty and Selfridges – we can always lose a few hours in both stores.”


The Venture Capitalist

WHO William McQuillan WHAT Partner at Frontline Ventures “When I graduated from college I applied for 19 different investment banking jobs in Dublin and London. I got rejected from all of them except one, at Lehman Brothers in London, so off I went in June 2008.” McQuillan, partner at venture capital firm Frontline Ventures (frontline.vc), is explaining why he traded the comforts of his rent-free family home in Dublin. “Lehman Brothers went bankrupt within three months, but I’ve stayed in London ever since.” That decision has served him well: at the age of 27, McQuillan – with the help of co-founders and fellow Irishmen Shay Garvey and Will Prendergast – launched Frontline, which has funded some of the most promising startups in Europe, from a company that offers on-demand drone insurance (Verifly) to a brand that uses 3D printing to create personalised jewellery (Love & Robots). “London is a real melting pot of cultures, people and ideas, and it’s this cross-pollination of talent and experiences that the best ideas come from – something that’s so important when you work with entrepreneurs. It would have been easy to have gone back to Dublin and lived with my parents but I knew that the opportunities and people I needed to be around were in London, so I always found a way to make it work. For a while I was even giving walking history tours to tourists to make sure I could pay the rent!” MY LONDON DOWNTIME “Fischer’s in Marylebone. Going there is like jumping back in time to the beautiful and vibrant Viennese cafés of the late 19th century. It’s less about tables than corners and booths, which makes every conversation an intimate one.”

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The Design Maven WHO Frieda Gormley WHAT Co-founder of House of Hackney, a fashion and interiors brand Frieda Gormley has always had a thing for London: as a young girl, she would save her pocket money for Liberty wallpaper and have it sent to her in Dublin. “I was enamoured of the city from an early age – especially its fashion and music scene – so in my twenties I left my job on the Dunnes Stores buying team in Dublin to take up a post at Topshop in London.” Five years later, she packed it in to found the famed fashion and interiors label House of Hackney (houseofhackney. com) with her husband Javvy M Royle. “We launched in 2011, in the middle of a global financial crisis, but I can’t think of anywhere else in the world other than London better suited to what we’re about. The Irish are great at using paint to introduce colour to their interiors, but there isn’t the same history of using wallpaper print at home as there is here.” Since launching five years ago, Gormley has grown the brand to a team of more than 20 people who produce two collections a year. “We make 90 per cent of our products in the UK, in places historically known for that particular product, such as fine bone china in Stoke-on-Trent,” she says. “Creating jobs and supporting local industry is really important to us.” Her plans for the future? “In March we’re opening in the US at Bergdorf Goodman – 2017 is all about taking it global.” Watch this space. MY LONDON DOWNTIME “I’m very lucky to live a stone’s throw from the London Fields Lido, an open-air, heated 50-metre pool. There, I can literally swim away any stress from the business.”

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DESTINATION | DALKEY

DarlingDalkey Having developed from Viking settlements into two genteel, affluent seaside resorts, Dalkey and Sandycove are well worth the short trip from inner-city Dublin. WORDS INGMAR KIANG PHOTOGRAPHS ANTHONY WOODS

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Opposite, Brighid McLaughlin, the eponymous host of Biddy’s Cottage in Dalkey. This page, elegant Sorrento Terrace.

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DESTINATION | DALKEY

T

he whining diesel engine was the soundtrack of my youth. Looking back, I must have spent most of my teenage years sitting on a bus: on an average day I’d take four – school was two journeys away – while half-days and weekends were spent getting to rugby matches and social events that always seemed to be held in Lucan, or “near Skerries”. Things got worse when I took up rock-climbing, which required regular after-school bus trips to Dalkey, during which I’d scribble out my homework, exercise books on rucksack, in the pre-smoking ban fug. My destination, Dalkey quarry, is still a popular and challenging climbing area that has nurtured more than a few Everest conquerors. Typically, I’d battle gravity there for a few hours, before repairing to McDonagh’s (61 Castle Street, 01 285 0889) for a not-strictly-legal pint. At the time (decades ago), McDonagh’s was a scruffy place with worn lino and a vaguely threatening 54 |

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Sunny side up on Dalkey’s main street, where the castle and heritage centre sit sideby-side with The Queen’s Bar and Steak Room.

clientele. Over the years it gradually smartened up, and is currently undergoing another gentrifying refurb to help it match its neighbours in an area that has become synonymous with affluence, record property prices and celebrity gossip. The “darlingisation of Dalkey”, as the writer Maeve Binchy described it, began in the late 1980s when the likes of Bono, Van Morrison, Enya and Neil Jordan settled in the area. It’s easy to see what attracted them: as well as enjoying a slightly eccentric, bohemian reputation, reinforced by its starring role in Flann O’Brien’s proto-psychedelic novels The Dalkey Archive and The Third Policeman, Dalkey is set away from the bustle of an increasingly hectic Dublin, yet close enough for easy access. It rises steeply from the sea – all the best properties have spectacular views – and it even has better-than-average weather and palm trees, as the shelter of Killiney Hill and favourable winds have created a micro-climate.


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DESTINATION | DALKEY

SLEEP AT … VENERABLE The Royal Marine Hotel gained its regal moniker having served a modest 16-course breakfast to Queen Victoria in 1861; later guests included Charlie Chaplin, Laurel and Hardy, and Frank Sinatra. Today, the luxurious but unshowy four-star retains much of its high-ceilinged grandeur, with spacious rooms enjoying commanding views over Dublin Bay, though portion sizes have reverted to more conventional norms. Rooms from €89. (Marine Road, Dún Laoghaire, 01 230 0030; royalmarine.ie)

Killiney Hill itself is worth a visit. More than a stroll but less than a hike, the incline and distance to the summit is just enough to ensure a bracing, rather than exhausting, walk. Journey’s end is marked by an obelisk, a curiosity erected in 1742 by Colonel John Mapas to commemorate the hardships suffered by Dublin’s poor during the bitter winters of the previous two years – the “forgotten famines”. Though only modestly high at 153 metres, the summit affords a panoramic view, with Dublin extending inland and to the north. However, the eye is inexorably drawn south as Killiney Bay arcs gracefully towards Bray, the vista completed by the Wicklow mountains in the distance. This is the view that inspired 19th-century culture vultures returning from continental grand tours to make comparisons with the Bay of Naples, and to give Italian names to the neighbourhood’s roads and buildings, the finest example being Sorrento Terrace, a row of eight earlyVictorian houses regularly celebrated as the most expensive and sought-after address in Dublin. Ten minutes’ walk away, Finnegan’s pub, aka Bono’s local (1 Sorrento Road, 01 285 8505; finnegans.ie) is on the edge of Dalkey village, which largely consists of a

EXCELLENT Recently rebranded, the wallet-friendly, three-star boutique hotel The Haddington features different sized rooms affectionately referred to as Crash Pads, Cosy, Comfy, Classic and Deluxe. Finished to a high standard, many of the refurbished rooms also enjoy superb sea views. The hotel’s restaurant, Oliveto, offers authentic Italian cuisine and has been a hit with locals and critics alike. Rooms from €75. (9-12 Haddington Terrace, Dún Laoghaire, 01 280 1810; thehaddington.ie)

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FATTI BURKE

MASSIVE Dating from 1740, the original house was built by Colonel John Mapas who also erected the Killiney Hill obelisk. Fitzpatrick’s Killiney Castle now features an upscale restaurant, casual grill and bar, gym, indoor pool, sauna and steam room, plus an event space and 600-person conference room. Ideally located, functional luxury – with a dash of history on the side. Rooms from €89. (Killiney Hill Road, Killiney, 01 230 5400; fitzpatrickcastle.com)


A Vico view of Killiney Bay, opposite. Clockwise from above, siblings Mairead and Oliver McCabe, of Select Stores; Alan Finnegan, whose family runs Finnegan’s pub in Dalkey; Michael Scott’s Art Deco delight; wise gifting at Daisie Stone; Bel Gelato’s Boris Loi serves some of the best ice cream in Ireland, while hidden treasures await at Buckley Galleries auction house.

series of upmarket restaurants, cafés, bakeries, delis and wine merchants catering to the locals’ choosy palates. Select Stores (1 Railway Road, 01 285 9611; selectstores. ie), a family grocery business established more than 50 years ago, now functions as a kitchen/deli specialising in wholefoods and healthy options. Elsewhere, Ragazzi (109 Coliemore Road, 01 284 7280) is a superb, buzzy Italian, and 1909 (31 Castle Street, 01 285 1909; 1909.ie) an excellent all-rounder and wine bar; The Queens (12 Castle Street, 01 285 4569; thequeens.ie) is a particularly successful pub restaurant, while Jaipur (21 Castle Street, 01 285 0552; jaipur.ie) is part of the chain that practically single-handedly modernised Indian cuisine in Ireland. There’s plenty more and the sheer number of options ensures a high standard – anyone running a below-par restaurant in Dalkey would quickly go out of business. The village is also good for a daytime mooch: get your bearings at the 15th-century Dalkey Castle

(Castle Street, 01 285 8366; dalkeycastle.com), now a heritage centre with a state-of-the-art, multilingual interactive display, plus the usual leaflets, maps and information on guided tours. Then check out the galleries and gift shops, such as Daisie Stone (2 Railway Road, 01 275 0500) and its exclusively Irish-made craft and upcycled goods, or just gaze longingly at the custom kitchens in the Design House (8 Railway Road, 01 235 2222; designhousedublin.com). Finally, treat yourself at Bel Gelato (3a Castle Street, 087 648 7670), where Boris serves what many describe as the best ice cream they’ve ever had. Literally down the road from Dalkey, Sandycove also enjoys a fine location and interesting cultural associations, chiefly centred on its Martello tower. One of a series of coastal fortifications built in Napoleonic times, the tower’s immortality was ensured when James Joyce made it the location of the opening chapters of Ulysses (the only chapters anyone actually reads).

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DON’T MISS … BULLOCK HARBOUR BOAT HIRE Perfect for anglers and mini-adventurers heading for Dalkey Island, boats can be hired year-round from Monica Smyth at the blue quayside cottage. Each vessel, complete with outboard motor, costs about €20 per hour, and can accommodate up to six people. No licence is required – just valid photo ID and a responsible attitude. Monica will also sell you a kilo of freshly caught lobster for a similar sum. 01 280 6517

BUCKLEY GALLERIES Get your timing right and there are hours of entertainment – and perhaps a few bargains – to be had at Buckley’s, one of Dublin’s few remaining public auction houses. With everything from paintings and furniture to crockery and bikes, Buckley’s well-to-do catchment area in Sandycove ensures you’ll find, more often than not, some genuinely nice pieces. Viewings on Wednesdays only; auction commences 2.30pm Thursdays. buckleygalleries.com

BIDDY’S COTTAGE An eccentric mix of step-back-in-time user experience and fireside chat, Biddy’s Cottage, on the meandering Coliemore Road, has become one of Dalkey’s leading visitor attractions. Over tea and oatcakes in an authentic and lovinglyrestored Irish cottage, artist and writer Brighid McLaughlin details the area’s history and folklore, along with her own reflections on life, with wit, charm and depth. Booking essential. irishfolkart.ie

Dead calm — Dalkey’s sheltered harbour.

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St. Kilian’s German School in south Dublin welcomes boys and girls of all nationalities, cultures and religions. Children learn German from Kindergarten (Junior Infants) up to Leaving Certificate in a diverse and inclusive environment. Our approach to education combines the best of the Irish and German educational traditions: students are prepared for the Junior and Leaving Certificate as well as the German Sprachdiplom and Sek1 examinations. Knowledge of German is not a requirement to enrol at St. Kilian’s.

Contact us to arrange a visit. St. Kilian’s Deutsche Schule Dublin, Roebuck Road, Clonskeagh, Dublin D14 P7F2 T +353 (0)1 288 3323 E secretary@kilians.com www.kilians.com


DESTINATION | DALKEY

It now houses the enthusiast-run and free-to-enter James Joyce Museum (Sandycove Point, 01 280 9265; jamesjoycetower.com), originally established by filmmaker John Huston and architect Michael Scott. The latter’s beautiful Art Deco house, adjacent to the tower and visible for miles, is another well-known landmark. Below the buildings, the Forty Foot ranks as the city’s most famous swimming spot, despite being extremely rocky and not without danger. It’s particularly popular with the hardy masochistic types who like a dip on New Year’s Day – but during the summer, thanks to that micro-climate and relatively benign tidal movements, it’s a glorious part of the world with a calming, timeless quality. Inland, the formerly non-descript village of Glasthule now features more prime dining opportunities, at Rasam and Cavistons (see ‘Eat at’, below right), Odells (49 Sandycove Road, 01 284 2188; odellsbistro.com) and two fine wine merchants, Mitchell & Son (54 Glasthule Road, 01 230 2301; mitchellandson.com) and 64 Wine (64 Glasthule Road, 01 280 5664; 64wine.ie), plus antique shops and boutiques. Beyond them, Fitzgeralds pub (11 Sandycove Road, 01 280 4469; fitzgeraldsofsandycove.webs.com) is another Southside institution, with the USP of hosting readings of Joyce’s work every Wednesday at 11am. In the opposite direction, the road winds towards Dún Laoghaire, past the small Dart station. The train runs frequently and mostly efficiently into Dublin – a service that I, having spent so many nauseous years lurching on the bus, can only recommend.

Above, hardy swimmers Donal Keane and Francis Roche at the Forty Foot. Right, make a point of visiting the obelisk on Killiney Hill – and also Cavistons fish restaurant, where proprietor Peter purveys the freshest catch.

EAT AT … ELEGANT From the banquette seating and chequered tile flooring, to the menu’s French onion soup and duck confit, DeVille’s is an unapologetic homage to the 1930s Paris brasserie. The formula can descend into cheesy pastiche but DeVille’s avoids the pitfalls with consistently faultless food, excellent service and a fine selection of wines and cocktails. Draught beer – unfortunately something of a rarity in Dublin restaurants – is also available. (25 Castle Street, Dalkey, 01 284 9071; devilles.ie) FISHY From humble origins as a fish shop, Cavistons Food Emporium has survived the decades by serving only the freshest fish and seafood, cooked simply without unnecessary adornment.

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Primarily a daytime spot, the family-run business serves lunch all day Tuesday to Saturday, with dinner only available 6-8pm Thursday to Saturday. The adjacent delicatessen is well worth a visit too. (58/59 Glasthule Road, Glasthule, 01 280 9120; cavistons.com) INDIAN Consistently rated as one of the best Indian restaurants in Ireland, Rasam is directly opposite Cavistons. The cultured refinement of its interior is matched by a menu that serves as a guided tour of India’s regional cuisines, ranging from the lighter seafood and vegetarian dishes of the coastal South, to more robust Northern fare. Lal Maas, Rasam’s take on lamb curry, is legendary. (18-19 Glasthule Road, Glasthule, 01 230 0600; rasam.ie)


THE FINEST IRISH INGREDIENTS INTENSIFIED BY FIRE FIRE’s renowned culinary team and the Irish Hereford Prime beef farmers have crafted a taste revelation. Our award winning 28 day aged Irish beef steaks are hand cut and specially marinated before being char-grilled to your liking. 8oz Sirloin Steak

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FIRE Restaurant and Lounge, The Mansion House, Dawson Street, Dublin 2. T: 00353 1 6767 200 | E: fire@mansionhouse.ie | www.mansionhouse.ie

ft


OLDCITY New Dreams The Catalan capital of Barcelona has all a traveller might seek: an amazing food scene, rich cultural destinations and a populace with undeniable charm. WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHS EOIN HIGGINS


DESTINATION | BARCELONA

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ixteen years ... not that long in the life of a city, yet Barcelona, an old stomping ground for this writer, has changed a lot since I first stepped foot there in late 2001. And in mostly good ways. The already brilliant Metro system has been further improved, upgraded and made even more efficient; there are now even more cultural happenings occurring week in/week out than you could shake a delicious slice of pa amb tomàquet (bread and tomato) at; but perhaps the most obvious change has been to the city’s food scene, which has flourished to turn the city into a hub of world-class culinary creativity. Prior to my stint, the 1992 Olympics had been the catalyst for the rejuvenation of the metropolis by the Med’. Pre-games, the city had languished – slightly neglected and under-invested in – yet it was a place that possessed an undeniable cultural spirit lying dormant beneath the miasma of dilapidation: a fascinating, architecturally mish-mashed capital, as uniquely engaging as any heavy-hitting European first city. The Olympics certainly brought in cash but the billions in moolah didn’t just finance PR puff, rebranding and spin. The canny Catalans spent their windfall polishing and further revealing an urban beauty that had lain forsaken for years. It also allowed them to make some new additions, in the shape of sensitive redevelopment and refinement of its Gothic quarter, a man-made beach and investment in a previously lumpen infrastructure. “Barna”, as the locals call it, not “Barça” (that’s the football team), is really a city of interconnected neighbourhoods – Barceloneta, El Born, Ciutat Vella, El Raval, El Gòtic and Montjuïc are some of the most popular and each has its own characteristics, quirks and peccadilloes. And take Gràcia, annexed to the city in the 19th century, which remains a culturally independent bastion. Home to quaint squares, bohemian bars and a mixed crowd of Catalan stalwarts and blow-in internationals, all of whom play very well together. It’s a village that is very much a microcosm of the larger city. Drop into Bodega Marin (+34 932 133 079) for a glass of finest vermouth with olives and revel in an interior that really hasn’t changed much since 1916 – a firm favourite for locals. For top-end bites, the more sophisticated Somodó (somodo.es) fuses Japanese cooking and Mediterranean ingredients. The poached egg on cream of anchovies is just sublime. At the north end of the barrio, the city’s architectural enfant terrible, Antoni Gaudí’s Parc Güell, is a pleasant way to stretch one’s legs and take in the surreal, sculpted architecture of the Modernist maestro. On the other side of town, in posh Sarrià-Sant Gervasi, a lesser-experienced Gaudí masterpiece, with fewer crowds to endure, Torre Bellesguard (bellesguardgaudi.com) is also worth exploring.

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Originally a family manor house, it is a great example of how Gaudí was not just a master of form but of function too. The guided tour is illuminating and the surrounding neighbourhood calm and interesting. Not too far away in Montjuïc, the Fundació Joan Miró (fmirobcn.org) honours the experimental Barcelona artist in a superb building designed by Rationalist architect Josep Lluís Sert. Within, Miró’s unmistakable sculpture, tapestry and painting are on display, giving a vivid snapshot of the mind of the creative. After a tour of the museum, a five-minute walk brings you to the Telefèric de Montjuic (telefericdemontjuic.cat). The views from the cable cars are spectacular and the less than ten-minute ride gets you to Montjuïc Castle, an ex-military fortress that allows for more stunning views over the city and balmy walks around its historical ramparts and beautifully laid out surrounding gardens. Hop on the Metro back to Ciutat Vella, Barcelona’s oldest neighbourhood and essentially the city centre. Plaça Catalunya is cool to wander around and a fantastic room with a view is found in the restaurant on the top floor of the El Corte Inglés (elcorteingles. es) department store. A little pricey by Barcelona standards but worth the outlay for the awesome vista. Ciutat Vella is also home to the famous, or infamous, depending on your take, Las Ramblas, a boulevard that is perhaps worth a quick stroll along, but not much more. Instead, time is better spent heading into the heart of the Gothic area. Take in the Roman, Medieval, Modernist streets, stroll through funky barrio El Born, and come out the other side at romantic Parc de La Ciutadella with its rowing boats, impromptu salsa dancing, fountains and sculpture. A memorable way to spend a Sunday is right here with a picnic of delicious things picked from one of the city’s enviable indoor food markets. As much as the restaurants in the city are a big draw for any food nut worth their salt, the municipal indoor grocery markets are tempting larders of edible sights, sounds, aromas and flavours. Discover how food is very much a part of the culture here in the enthusiasm and animated way the city’s folk do their shopping. Favourites are the famous La Boqueria, just off Las Ramblas; the slick Mercat del Ninot in Eixample and the colourful Mercat de Santa Caterina in Ciutat Vella – each worth a visit. So sure, the Airbnb effect has led some of the city’s old neighbourhoods – Barceloneta, for instance, is not the once grittily authentic working-class stronghold it once was – to change completely in the past two decades, but for the most part, and for the reoffending visitor at least, progress has brought very good, not to mention exceedingly tasty, things to the bewitching streets of Barcelona.


Clockwise from opposite, Cava and tapas at Perelló 1898 at the Mercat del Ninot; a stunning steeple at Gaudí’s lesser-known Torre Bellesguard; Natalia Albut and Stefania Nunu take in the view from Montjuïc Castle; entry to creative oasis, Fundació Joan Miró.

AerClub Tier members can earn up to 75 per cent extra Avios points on Aer Lingus flights – see aerlingus.com/ aerclub for details.

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EAT AT … AVANT-GARDE In Disfrutar, the essence of gastronomic Barcelona is alchemised and distilled. A restaurant run by three chefs who previously spent 15 years working together in Ferran Adrià’s world elBulli, Disfrutar (meaning “to enjoy”) is an obvious heir to Adrià’s molecular gastronomy movement and, while the spirit of elBulli is evident, there is also something of a departure. The oeuvre of chefs Oriol Castro, Eduard Xatruch and Mateu Casañas might best be described as “neo-molecular”. You’d be right to expect plenty of surreal surprises from a menu that breaks the frame of modern cooking, yet the cues for this fantasy repertoire are all founded on a solid Mediterranean base.

(Carrer de Villarroel, 163, +34 933 48 68 96; disfrutarbarcelona.com) TAPAS Housed in the bustling (and superb) Mercat del Ninot, which gives the traditional La Boqueria a run for its onions as the must-visit Barcelona market, Perelló 1898 is a tapas bar that comes from folks who have been in the business of selling cod (bacallaners) since the 19th century. The specialty is … pretty much everything, but the cod fritters are

a particular treat. Pull a stool up to the slick bar, order a glass of Cava, or several, and pick and choose from a fantastic menu that changes daily. (Passatge del Torrent de l’Estadella, 22; perello1898.com) CHARISMATIC

Traditional yet more modern, lighter, Tragaluz is a triumph of setting as much as food. A glass ceiling, open kitchen and nicely distressed (done before they became as ubiquitous as filament bulbs) concrete walls lend an air of chic industry. Food is Med’ with a twist; the slightly above-average price point is worth it. Co-founded by the legendary and formidable Barcelona restaurateur Rosa María Esteva — the glass ceiling here is perhaps the only one she has encountered that is still intact. (Passatge de la Concepció, 5, +34 934 87 06 21; grupotragaluz.com)

Top, a unique dining room, above, cutting-edge plating technique, and left, chefs Eduard Xatruch and Oriol Castro, at Disfrutar.

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to BARCELONA twice daily.

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CHERRYWOOD BUSINESS PARK

A Natural Environment for Business. FLEXIBLE Fully ďŹ tted and build-to-suit office opportunities for businesses of all sizes. CONNECTED 25 minutes from Dublin city centre, 35 minute drive from Dublin Airport, serviced by the Luas, Dublin Bus and 2 motorways. COMMUNITY Planned town centre with full amenities.

cherrywooddublin.com


Clockwise from far left, land ahoy at Port Vell; fantastic architecture at MNAC; erudite tour guide Jordi Carruesco i Marí from Torre Bellesguard.

SLEEP AT … terrace, with views of Gaudí’s Casa Milla, a spa and minimalist, yet cosy rooms in muted tones. Rooms from €230. (Carrer del Rosselló, 265, +34 934 45 40 00; hotelomm.com)

GASTRONOMIC Catalan class suffuses the modern Hotel Omm. There are two top-tier dining options — Roca Bar is fun and casual but no retiring type when it comes to culinary chops and there’s the Michelin-starred Roca Moo, above, a powerhouse of creative Catalan cuisine. The hotel also has an outdoor rooftop pool and

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CLASSY Refined, distinguished, discreet ... the Mercer Hotel is the perfect bolthole for international rock stars and starlets, or those who’d like to live that particular dream in the heart of Barcelona’s historical Gothic barrio. The Mercer manages to pull off that difficult act of aping cutting-edge interior design while showcasing the historically important architectural features of the building. Furthermore, staff go the clichéd above and beyond when it comes to guest satisfaction. A very classy affair. Rooms from €261. (Carrer dels Lledó, 7, +34 933 10 74 80; mercerbarcelona.com)

CULTURAL The aroma of spiced incense wafts through the Hotel

Claris. Owned by the Derby Hotels Collection, the ‘collection’ referring to the fascinating objets found throughout this architecturally alluring hotel. Opulent suites, below, and a hightoned rooftop restaurant where you’ll find as many locals as guests makes this a unique Barcelona experience. Rooms from €187. (Carrer de Pau Claris, 150, +34 934 87 62 62; hotelclaris.com)


DON’T MISS ART Providing an astonishing array of Catalan art from the 12th to the 20th centuries, MNAC has fine photography, Romanesque and Modernism sections to pore over, as well as Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque bits. Artistic wealth aside, the location of the museum is a winner too, up a fair swatch of steps that afford great panoramic views over a seldom seen part of the city. A great place to hang out and take it all in. museunacional.cat

One of Joan Miró’s gifts to the city, above, morning shadows on Passieg de Gràcia, above right, and, below, see the sights from up on high via a Montjuïc cable car.

SMART TIPS FARE PLAY The Hola BCN ! travel card comes in twoto five- day versions and saves a bundle on fares on the Metro. Available from all stations, including the airport.

FEEL FREE Keep an eye on forfree.cat for free events happening around the city, from festivals to recitals to screenings and openings. FLEA, THE SCENE Running since the 14th century, the Els Encants flea market is a treasure trove of bric-abrac, bargains and oddities galore. encantsbcn.com

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COOL BARRIO Another neighbourhood worth traipsing about, El Raval was originally called “Barrio Chino” and was the kind of place that people came to do, well, not quite legal things ... all that has changed, for the most part, and nowadays El Raval is home to creatives, cool kids, interesting boutiques and shops — and just a smidgeon of that old naughty flavour lingering in certain corners. An interesting visit for the intrepid traveller.

SPECTACLE Cheesy it may be but there is something undeniably uplifting and enjoyable about the daily/ nightly fountain shows at Plaça España. Sometimes accompanied by music and a light show, the great pride the warm Catalan people have for their capital city is effusively personified, with great majesty, at this guilty pleasure of a spectacle, especially after dark.


33 EXCHEQUER STREET, DUBLIN 2 +3531 6707238 WWW.THEGREENHEN.COM

OPEN 7 DAYS 2 COURSE LUNCH €17.00 3 COURSE LUNCH €19.00

EARLY BIRD MENU 2 COURSES €19.50 3 COURSES €22.00

A LA CARTE MENU EXTENSIVE WINE LIST GREAT COCKTAILS


SMART EDIT | LAKES

You say, we say ...

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GREAT

LAKES for reflective breaks

Daragh Reddin tests the waters.

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with inclement weather, rundown accommodation and inhospitable locals – offers a cautionary tale on the perils of rustic getaways but, for those in the know, a carefully planned lake holiday has no equal. Whether you can think of nothing better than being buffeted by hard vertical rain in a canoe or you prefer to be cosseted from the elements but still enjoy peerless views, there’s a lake holiday out there with your name on it. Here’s our edit of your lauded lakes.

SCOTT SADY/TAHOELIGHT.COM / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

e’ve gone on holidays by mistake,” laments Richard E Grant’s hapless Withnail in the cult classic Withnail & I. The tale of two booze-addled, out-of-work actors who leave London for the country getaway from hell probably did little for the tourism industry in the Lake District where large swathes of the movie were filmed. For many urbanites, Withnail’s experience – replete

Lake Tahoe, Sierra Nevada As the largest alpine lake in North America, it’s hardly surprising that Lake Tahoe, situated at a height of more than 1,800 metres in the Sierra Nevada, is a misanthrope’s dream. Tahoe, meaning “big lake”, offers the perfect environment to slough off the last vestiges of civilisation and hunker down amid the trees – or, if you’d rather, in one of its many designated campsites. And there is no shortage of options for getting out on those pellucid waters, be it with canoe, kayak, cruiser or – a relatively recent craze – stand-up paddleboard.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to San Francisco five times per week, increasing to daily from March.

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Lake Lucerne, Lucerne This central Swiss city on the banks of Lake Lucerne will captivate visitors at any time, but it’s in late summer, when its annual classical music festival seduces aesthetes from all over Europe, that it’s at its most bewitching. Those with a tin ear will still have plenty to enjoy, but should start with the lakeside paths that wend their way through pretty docks and boatyards to the relaxed Strandbad Tribschen beach where volleyball and paddling are the order of the day.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Zurich daily.

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Lake Geneva, Romandy

The most revered national park in the United Kingdom, Cumbria’s Lake District has been immortalised in works by William Wordsworth and Beatrix Potter, whose 17th-century cottage near Hawkshead in the South Lakeland is a must-see for Peter Rabbit fans. A joyous amalgam of grassy fells and glistening tarns, the Lake District covers an area of some 1,420 square kilometres. Try a boat trip on the island-dotted Lake Windermere, the park’s largest lake, or go hiking along any of the numerous pathways that traverse the entire region.

Poised regally on the southern end of the vast Lac Léman (Lake Geneva), Geneva is perhaps the most cosmopolitan and salubrious – you can thank its proximity to Europe’s largest Alpine lake for that – city on earth. A hefty bank balance is a plus when visiting, but you don’t have to be an affluent tax exile to enjoy a wander along the Geneva Lake Shore Path, with tranquil waters on one side and luxury boat houses on the other. From pontoon to paddleboard, there’s no shortage of options for taking to the water, but a themed boat tour with the Lake Geneva Cruise Line is recommended.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Manchester up to five times per day.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Geneva daily.

The Lake District, Cumbria

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SMART EDIT | LAKES

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Lake Como, Lombardy

Italy’s most celebrated lake – all 146 square kilometres of it – really does deserve to hog the limelight. Its gnarly shoreline is punctuated by picture-postcard villages and, with the vertiginous Rhaetian Alps in the background, the lake boasts more snap-worthy vistas than you can point a Canon FT at. Como’s eponymous main town remains lustrous throughout the year and its grand piazzas are perfect for idling along; while the town of Bellagio is not only impossibly pretty, it boasts an excellent ferry service to other quaint hamlets on the lake.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Milan/Linate daily and Milan/Milpensa six times per week.

Lake Annecy, Haute-Savoie Forget bedding down under the stars in a bivouac sack, Lake Annecy, in the south east of France, is dotted with some of the country’s grandest hotels, including the vast, six-storey L’Impérial Palace, which has played host to the likes of Winston Churchill, Charlie Chaplin and Edith Piaf. If you do decide to step outside, be sure to take in the captivating views that inspired Cezanne’s Le Lac d’Annecy, as well as the titular main town, which sensitively melds the Medieval and the modern. With the ski resort of La Clusaz on its doorstep, Annecy also makes the perfect winter bolthole.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Geneva daily.

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ANTHONY WOODS

6 Lough Ree, Lakelands It may feel like Ireland’s coastline has it all sewn up when it comes to tourism but our Lakelands, which occupy much of central Ireland – taking in the length of the River Shannon – are one of our greatest natural treasures. Lough Ree, the second largest lake on the Shannon, is an angler’s paradise and is easily navigated by boat. Its best-kept secret is Saint’s Island, in Co Longford, which is home to the ruins of a Medieval Augustinian monastery. And, if that’s not quite ancient enough, the nearby Corlea Trackway Visitor Centre boasts the remnants of Europe’s largest Iron Age bog road, dated 150BC.

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Lake Michigan, Chicago

Surrounded by a beautifully untouched landscape that gives rural New England a run for its money, Lake Michigan – meaning great lake – has captured the imagination of everyone from novelist Ernest Hemingway to songwriter Sufjan Stevens. With more than 2,000 kilometres of shoreline, Michigan’s perimeter cries out for an unhurried road trip, with beaches, wineries and guesthouses sprinkled invitingly en route. For those reluctant to leave behind the creature comforts of Chicago, situated on the lake’s southernmost point, the bike path along the city’s 29-kilometre-long Lakefront Trail is the perfect compromise.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Chicago twice daily.

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SMART EDIT | LAKES

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Lake Ontario, Ontario The smallest in surface area of North America’s five Great Lakes, Lake Ontario – meaning “lake of shining waters” – boasts one tourist attraction that eclipses all others: the Niagara Falls. At Horseshoe Falls the Niagara’s fog-shrouded waters sluice some 53 metres into the milky Maid of the Mist pool below – to the amazement of day-trippers who flock to take in the spectacle. And while Toronto, on Ontario’s north-western shore, needs no introduction, don’t miss nearby Mississauga, Canada’s sixth largest city, which has a vast Waterfront Trail that passes through 22 parks and conservation areas.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Toronto three times per week, increasing to five times weekly from March.

Loch Lomond, West Highland Way Consider it the Lake District’s arch rival when it comes to the UK’s most beloved national park. Scotland’s Loch Lomond, whose southern-most point is less than 30 kilometres from Glasgow, is a godsend for harried city folk. The relatively flat West Highland Way provides magnificent lake views, while the tranquil water can be actively enjoyed through sailing, canoeing and waterskiing. If that all sounds too onerous, Segway Safaris – departing regularly from the village of Balloch – run hour-long guided tours along the shore.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Glasgow daily, and from Cork five times per week.

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OVER TO YOU

Next issue we share your favourite ART CITIES in Aer Lingus destinations. Have your say @CARAMagazine, using the hashtag #CaraYSWS.


“At Rustic Stone our philosophy is simple. We source the best seasonal ingredients, then we apply simple techniques to extract the most flavour, while giving you the information you need to add nutrition and structure to your diet. The produce I’ve chosen and our demand for freshness, is the cornerstone of our Rustic idea, while providing a healthy but affordable eating approach.”

“Quite simply a menu designed to support the very best of homegrown produce. The food is assembled in an uncomplicated way that relies on its freshness to shine through as a real hero. We are committed to bringing to the plate all that is great from the best of Irish produce, at a time when its is important to support the value, the effort and commitment of our Irish producers and farmers. These people are an inspiration to us; through their passion they are continuously evolving with a determination to be proud of what we do on this rapidly developing food island”. - Dylan McGrath

- Dylan McGrath 17 South Great Georges Street T: 01 707 9596

Taste at Rustic is an exciting new restaurant in the heart of Dublin City. A new food experience by Dylan McGrath to explore the idea of flavour, tastes and in the room cooking, while being influenced by Japan, Spain and South America. “I love the flavour release of some of these cooking techniques. I find something special in the use of their immediate, quick heat and I hope you do too”. - Dylan McGrath

Taste at Rustic 17 South Great George’s St. Dublin 2, Ireland. Tel: +353 (01) 526 7701

Fade St Social, 4-6 Fade St, Dublin 2 T:01 6040066 fadestreetsocial.com

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ial, Fade St Soc Dublin 2 4-6 Fade St, 6 T:01 604006 ocial.com fadestreets


The bigger picture – themes in the Yale Center for British Art’s Long Gallery are changed every semester to correspond with the university’s art history classes.


THE REST IS

history

Connecticut is not just for autumn. Hire an SUV during off-peak season and find plenty to enjoy, from its fascinating history to bracing coastline. WORDS LAUREN HESKIN PHOTOGRAPHS JANEIVY HILARIO


DESTINATION | CONNECTICUT

onnecticut is not simply a state that welcomes nature lovers every autumn for New England’s “Leaf Peeping” season, when tourists flock to see the glorious foliage colours. Thanks to its old-fashioned clapboard houses, streetside letterboxes and down-home diners, it’s ripe for a road-trip at any time of year. North of the Statue of Liberty, and with a coastline protected by a tidal estuary called Long Island

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Sound, the New England state comprises the seaside towns of New Haven and Mystic, the rolling hills of Litchfield County and all the magnificent breweries and national parks in between. In short, it packs a lot into its 15,000 square kilometres. We opt for the coastal route, in part because we only have three days, but mainly because we need an excuse to come back – and you can’t go far wrong with seaside stop-offs for revisit potential. You’ll notice immediately that Connecticut is littered with the place names of its British colonisers – the one-hour car journey from Hartford’s Bradley Airport to Mystic takes us through Glastonbury, Marlborough, Colchester and New London. Puritan English settlers arrived here in the mid-17th century and their influence remains imprinted on the state today through its many churches. There are four on New Haven Green alone, which was designed by colonist John Brockett and now plays host to

several summer music festivals. However, the names that tied my English-speaking tongue – Narragansett, Wampanoag, Hammonasset – originate from much older communities. The Mashantucket Pequot Museum (110 Pequot Trail, Mashantucket, +1 800 411 9671; pequotmuseum. org), on the tribal reservation north of Mystic, offers an insight into Connecticut’s native history. Full of immersive exhibitions, its beautiful tribal portrait gallery and observation tower that overlooks cedar forests are not to be missed. After a frolic around Mystic Seaport (see “Must Visits”, page 84), cross the drawbridge to Downtown Mystic, where you’ll find an adorable ice cream parlour and cute independent shops beloved of Martha’s Vineyard types. From there, follow the heaven-scented whiff of coffee and fresh-baked Danish pastries towards Sift Bake Shop (5 Water Street, +1 860 245 0541;


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DESTINATION | CONNECTICUT

SLEEP AT … HIP Sandwiched between the emerging Front Street District and the Connecticut River, the soaring Hartford Marriott Downtown has views towards Bushnell Park and the golden-capped State Capitol building. Take a dip in the swimming pool on the top floor for the best panoramas, and ask the super helpful staff for the best walks in the city. Rooms from $159. (200 Columbus Boulevard, +1 860 249 8000; marriott.com) MAD For a totally bonkers twist to your quaint vacation, check out the whopping 34 floors at Mohegan Sun. However, it’s actually what lies underneath the hotel that’s impressive. Down the escalator

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and past the cascading waterfall you’ll find one of the world’s largest casinos, a 10,000-seater stadium and a shopping mall. Rooms from $159. (1 Mohegan Sun Boulevard, Uncasville, +1 888 777 7922; mohegansun.com) FRILLY If all-out kitsch is your thing, book yourself into the House of 1833 in Mystic. The sweeping driveway, beautiful landscaping, imposing Greek-columned entryway and the most delicious cookies in the parlour, means that the five suites of this historic home fill up quick – so don’t hang around. Rooms from $129. (72 North Stonington Road, +1 860 536 6325; houseof1833.com )

Clockwise from top left, the delicate and delicious creations of pastry chef and Sift Bakeshop owner Adam Young; Saybrook Point Inn’s mouthwateringly good lobster roll and truffle fries; get submerged on the submarine Nautilus.

siftbakeshopmystic.com) and then it’s selfie-central beneath the “Mystic Pizza” sign. Sadly no glimpse of 1988-era Julia Roberts, though. West along the coast in Groton is the Submarine Force Museum (1 Crystal Lake Road, +1 800 343 0079; ussnautilus.org), which is pretty cool for all ages and even for the slightly claustrophobic (ahem). Sandwiched between a US Naval submarine base and a submarine shipyard, you’ll be guided around the museum by a practising submariner who’ll reveal all about the first US Navy submarine (built by Irishman John Holland) and the move to nuclear power, and also be offered the opportunity to board the decommissioned sub, Nautilus. Fun game: see how many “that’s classified information” you can get out of your guide. Not that we’re suggesting you badger a uniformed officer, but ... After a stop in quaint Old Saybrook (see “Eat at”, opposite), where Yale University was founded in 1701, we head to the Ivy League’s “new” home of New Haven – the university moved here in 1716. To see the best of this sprawling campus’ Hogwarthian buildings, pick up a university tour led by a Yale student from 149 Elm Street (visitorcenter.yale. edu). Our guide was a scruffy kid in crumpled jeans who was writing his thesis on the influence of China on US cyber security. At least that’s as much as I understood. There, bibliophiles will love perusing the campus libraries, whose central place of literary worship – Sterling Memorial Library – is certainly a devout space, complete with stained glass, a nave and a statue of “Mother Yale” (little wonder that its architect James Gamble Rogers was itching to design a cathedral). There is also the brand new Beinecke Rare Book and Manuscript Library, which holds 100,000 books in its core column – including a Gutenberg Bible – its marble “windows” allowing for natural light without any


Saybrook Point Inn’s marina, pictured, empties over winter but you can still book into the adorable Lighthouse Suite overlooking the Sound. Right, Ted’s Montana Grill may create mega American fare, but it’s managed by Longford man John Halpin, below.

EAT AT ... AIRY Just outside of Mystic, right on the waterfront, is the local favourite Red 36. With a broad terrace jutting out over the mouth of the river, it’s a busy spot with a vast menu. Go for drinks and the fish tacos appetiser and soak up the spectacular view as the sun sets right in front of the main balcony. The homemade ice cream is also superb. (2 Washington Street, +1 860 536 3604; red36ct.com) MEATY Set up by Ted Turner (Jane Fonda’s former squeeze) to reinvigorate the bison meat market and protect the national mammal from extinction, Ted’s Montana Grill has become a national institution since it opened its first

restaurant in Ohio in 2002. With a huge range of bison burgers, local brews and a chilled-out atmosphere, this CT enclave in the all new Front Street District outlet is guaranteed to be a student hub. (35 Front Street, +1 860 692 1167; tedsmontanagrill.com) COSY With views out over its private marina at the mouth of the Long Island Sound estuary, Saybrook Point Inn does a number of things right – sweet staff, charming rooms – but its waterside restaurant is a particular highlight. It serves, hands down, the best lobster roll this writer has ever had. (2 Bridge Street, Old Saybrook, +1 860 452 0035; saybrook.com)

damaging UV rays. Don’t leave campus without an ogle at the extensive collection of Bacons, Blakes and Constables at the (free) Yale Center for British Art (1080 Chapel Street, +1 203 432 2800; britishart.yale. edu). Don’t overlook the trash bag in the lobby, either – it’s one of Gavin Turk’s boundary-bashing bronze sculptures. Once you’ve had your literary fix and rubbed the toe of Theodore

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to HARTFORD four times per wee k.

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DESTINATION | CONNECTICUT

MUST VISITS ... SWEET Thorncrest Dairy Farm is a bovine Zen zone. The Thorn family tend to their cows like staff wait on clients in an upmarket spa – their comfort and tranquillity are paramount. This is because each cow here serves a specific purpose, or rather, a specific chocolate: each unique flavour of milk lending itself to different bars. So only Queen’s milk goes into the Lime and Lime Liquorice, and only Daydream’s makes the caramel. Kate and Viola, however, are personal cow-favourites, their milk producing the Madagascar Vanilla chocolates – all bought as souvenirs that were, oddly, never gifted ... (280 Town Hill Road, Goshen, +1 860 309 2545; milkhousechocolates.net) FAMILY With eight hectares of land and a wooden dock full of boats that date back some 200 years, Mystic Seaport, below, makes for a fun museum. Stroll around the seafaring village, wander into the shipsmith’s workshop and

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learn how vessels were built at the turn of the century. The seaport’s pride and joy is the Charles W Morgan, the oldest commercial ship still floating. An afternoon here will literally sail by. (75 Greenmanville Avenue, Mystic, +1 860 572 0711; mysticseaport.org) BOOKISH Sam Clemens, aka Mark Twain, raised his children and wrote some of his classics, including The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn, in this beautiful, Gothicstyle home in the Hartford suburbs. The Mark Twain House, left, is full of stories, including those of parties held and its famous guests. The interiors, top left, have been meticulously restored and you get a definite sense of the fun and family man behind one of America’s greatest writers. You can complete the literary Civil War period nicely by popping next door to the house of abolitionist and author Harriet Beecher Stowe. (351 Farmington Avenue, Hartford, +1 860 247 0998; marktwainhouse.org)


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DESTINATION | CONNECTICUT

SMART TIPS SHOPPING You don’ t need to head to Boston or New York to snap up some fashionable wares, Connecticut’s outlets will burn a hole through your pocket before you realise you’ve no room left in your luggage. Check out Clinton Crossing or Foxwood’s outlets and be sure to organise a meeting point before you dive in. TRAILS If you want to plan your trip around food and drink (and let’s face it, who doesn’t), CTvisit offers all kinds of routes – whether you’re a beer guzzler, wine swiller, cocktail sipper or on the hunt for the creamiest chowder in New England. Simply pick your poison and there’s a ready-made route for you. Visit ctvisit.com for more information.

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Top left, the golden dome of the Connecticut State Capitol in Hartford. Above, the Neo-Gothic spires of Yale and, left, the high tech Beinecke Rare Book and Manuscript Library.

Woolsey in the old campus (for luck, duh), circle back to Hartford – glumly known as “America’s filing cabinet” for its plethora of insurance companies. Happily, it’s only set to get busier and buzzier as UCONN university welcomes a new Downtown campus in August 2017. And with the students will come the nightlife, food and shops, in the form of the new Front Street District (frontstreetdistrict.com). Watch this space. Until then, relish in the words of Hartford’s literary godfather, Mark Twain (see “Must Visit”, page 84): “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry and narrow-mindedness ... Broad,

wholesome, charitable views of men and things cannot be acquired by vegetating in one little corner of the Earth all one’s lifetime”. Certainly there’s much to be gained from visiting the not-so-little corner that is Connecticut.

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DESTINATION | MIAMI

i m a i M e c i N

Defiant glamour, outré opulence and cosmopolitan vibes, Miami lives the good life in high definition. WORDS FIONN DAVENPORT PHOTOGRAPHY MATT MARRIOTT

Canal life, Blauwburgwal, Candy – Ocean inEye Centrum. Drive is a sorbet-hued feast for the eyes.

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DESTINATION | MIAMI

Bay watch? Vibrantly-coloured lifeguard huts are flanked by surging condos and hotels on Miami Beach.

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If Louis XIV were alive today, he’d holiday in Miami. The Magic City’s spellbinding mix of beauty and bacchanal is so intoxicating that it proved a “perilous attraction” to writer Joan Didion and had actor Will Smith partying on the beach until the break of dawn. Miami’s multiple moods – supermodel glitz on Lincoln Road, defiant nostalgia in Little Havana, transgressive creativity in Wynwood – express themselves against one of America’s sexiest backdrops; a movie set of teal waters, white-sand beaches and blood-orange sunsets. Most Miami Cubans may have outgrown Little Havana, but the sounds and scents of the barrio haven’t changed: the hum of salsa pouring out of the bodegas along Calle Ocho (Eighth Street) and the sweet waft of cigar smoke around the old men playing dominos and cursing Castro’s memory in Máximo Gómez Park. To the north, the Design District drips in art galleries and high-end boutiques where even a memento of local chic can cost you thousands. But for real Miami opulence head down toward Coconut Grove and take a wander around the ornate Vizcaya Museum & Gardens (vizcaya.org), an Italianate villa built in 1916 by industrialist James Deering as a fitting residence for him and his extraordinary collection of art from the Renaissance onwards. Super stylish, wonderfully offbeat and even sordid

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in parts, South Beach (SoBe) is where the Miami stereotype comes to life. Five-star hotels and designer boutiques sit side-by-side with grungy tattoo parlours and dingy dive bars. Along Ocean Drive bronzed beauties slip out of soft-top Ferraris to strut their stuff, barely noticing the beach bum rearranging his worldly possessions in a supermarket trolley. This is the Miami of the movies: of perfect skies and pastel-hued Art Deco palaces, of rollerblading families gliding through South Pointe Park, of pensioners in velvet leisurewear soaking up the sunshine of their retirements. Start your night with a cocktail in one of America’s best bars, the Broken Shaker (freehandhotels.com) in the backyard of the Freehand Hotel (see ‘Sleep at’, page 92) and end it the following morning with a French loaf stuffed with goodies from the walk-up counter of La Sandwicherie (lasandwicherie.com). For something more substantial, try the finger-lickin’ soul food in Yardbird Southern Table & Bar (runchickenrun.com), across the peninsula in a converted grocery store. Should you need respite from the city’s multiple charms, the southern end of Biscayne Bay is where you’ll find Stiltsville (stiltsville.org), a cluster of wooden shacks on pilings that over the years has served as a gamblers’ den, a smugglers’ haven and a bikini club with low morals and a high-class clientele. The Sun King would surely have approved.


SMART TIPS MIAMI MOCA Not coffee, but modern art: the Museum of Contemporar y Art has avant-garde exhibitions by big names, artist-led lectures and, on the last Friday of the month, jazz concerts for ever yone.

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GREEN & SERENE Miami Beach Botanical Garden is free in and a hectare of sweet respite from the urban hubbub — visit mbgarden.org.

1 Hostels aren’t known for their snazz, but then the Freehand isn’t your ordinary hostel. Yes, there are dorm and bunk options but there are private rooms too, with all of the above decorated to a high, hip standard. Moreover, it has a superb outdoor bar, The Broken Shaker, and a lush pool.

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2 If you think that Miami’s Art Deco architecture is colourful, check out the hispanic enclave of Little Havana, where its Cuban community provides a vibrant food, music and arts scene. Some of it is, naturally, aimed at tourists, however, the locals are the absolute real deal.

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DESTINATION | MIAMI

SLEEP AT … RAT PACK The Redbury South Beach, top, embraces the shiny chic of the 1950s and the psychedelic wow of the 1960s: through Georgia-peach doors are Paisley wallpapered rooms, all of which have record players – so you can play the collection of LPs by Nat King Cole, Ella Fitzgerald and Frank Sinatra. Rooms from $200. (1776 Collins Ave, +1 305 604 1776; theredbury.com) FABULOUS Gold columns, huge murals, swanky rooftop pool, and artwork by Koons and Hirst, above, on permanent display, the hyggebe-damned opulence of the Faena Hotel is the vision of filmmaker Baz Luhrmann’s costume designer wife Catherine Martin. Rooms from $420. (3201 Collins Ave, +1 305 534 8800; faena.com) HIP A minimalist makeover to an Art Deco classic has resulted in the Freehand Hotel, a favourite with budget travellers who have a choice between a bungalow, suite or quad dorm. And, for everyone, the city’s coolest backyard bar for killer cocktails. Beds from $120. (2727 Indian Creek Dr, +1 305 531 2727; freehandhotels.com)

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3 Cross the Rickenbacker Causeway south of Miami to Key Biscayne, an idyll of beaches, parkland, glitzy beachfront hotels – and a very sleek lighthouse. 4 Xavier Veilhan’s smart sculpture of Le Corbusier in the Design District.

5 Singer, bon vivant – and wig fancier – Gigi Rowe strikes a pose at Wynwood Walls, a street art hotbed. 6 Lizard lounge – the Italian inspired Vizcaya Museum & Gardens is the territory of choice for this sun-loving iguana, its beautifully manicured Renaissance gardens and Venetian-style pier quite the backdrop.

7 Dapper dudes at Yardbird Southern Table & Bar, a soul food restaurant so successful that it opened a second outlet at the Venetian in Las Vegas and has outposts opening in Beverly Hills and Singapore this year. Come wearing elasticated waistbands, and fill up on mac, cheese and grits, St Louis style ribs and fried green tomatoes (there are also lipsmacking salads aplenty).

*BASED ON RTN FLIGHTS IN OFF-PEAK PERIOD, EXCL. TAXES AND CHARGES

6

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Fly return to Miami from September for 32,500 Avios points. And, remember, if you don’t have enough to fly to where you want to go, you can use those that you do have and pay the rest in cash.*

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DESTINATION | MIAMI

8 If you’re fond of sand dunes ... visit Miami Beach. 9 Pull up a stool at the French hole-in-the-wall La Sandwicherie, which has been sating appetites with its baguettes and croissants since 1968. And: it’s open 8am to 5am. 10 The grounds of Vizcaya Villa are more Italy than Florida.

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SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to MIAMI three times per week from September.

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In recent times, the financial markets have frequently made mainstream headlines, with the Brexit referendum and the US presidential elections driving much of that news. So, for a taste of the markets, we’ve put together a selection of easy to digest information. Before you start into that a little about us – who are we and what do we do? IG is a FTSE 250 firm founded in 1974, a global leader in online trading and the winner of multiple awards. We have 1,400 staff across 15 client-facing offices globally with an easy to access Dublin office. With more than 150,000 clients around the world making over seven million trades a month – and with over 10,000 markets available to trade and invest in – we are busy all year round. Whether travelling for work or pleasure today, we hope that you enjoy our taster menu on the financial markets.

5 THINGS TO LOOK OUT FOR IN THE MARKETS IN 2017

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Political risk remains on the agenda for the year, as voters go to the polls in the Netherlands, France and Germany, threatening to carry the wave of populism forward.

RS

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OPEC’s deal quelled fears that production would continue to rise, but will all the members play ball?

The president-elect’s first few weeks in office promise to be eventful, with hopes of a new infrastructure programme, plus the potential for major realignments in geopolitics.

EU

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After one rate rise in 2016, will the US central bank manage to squeeze in three more in 2017, as the latest meeting suggested? And what will that do for the US dollar and emerging markets?

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The UK is meant to activate Article 50 in March – will this kick off a fresh round of volatility for the pound and other UK assets?


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IG, World Rugby House, 8-10 Pembroke Street Lower, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 526 6061 Email: dublinoffice@ig.com www.ig.com/ie The information in this article and on our site is not directed at residents of the United States, Belgium or any particular country outside the UK or Ireland and is not intended for distribution to, or use by, any person in any country or jurisdiction where such distribution or use would be contrary to local law or regulation. Spread bets and CFDs are leveraged products and can result in losses that exceed deposits. The value of shares, ETFs and ETCs bought through a share dealing account, a stocks and shares ISA or a SIPP can fall as well as rise, which could mean getting back less than you originally put in. Please ensure you fully understand the risks and take care to manage your exposure. IG is a trading name of both IG Markets and IG Index.

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Salopettes at the ready for Catherine Murphy’s pick of winter sports resorts.

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TOURI SME STÉPHANE LEREN DU/AVORIAZ

SPRING SNOW

AVORIAZ, FRANCE

FREERIDE ©ORELI ORELI B / AVORIAZ TOURISME

AMARA/VORIA Z TOU RISM

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High altitude Avoriaz celebrates its 50th anniversary this winter by paying homage to the men who brought it to life – ski champion Jean Vuarnet, developer Gérard Brémond and architect Jacques Labro. Car-free, purpose-built and family-friendly, Avoriaz forms part of the Portes du Soleil, which boasts more than 600 kilometres of skiing across 13 resorts in France and Switzerland. Blessed with plentiful snow between mid November and late April, it’s a perfect Easter and late-season ski destination. Freestylers love its Stash snow park, while little ones will adore Lil’ Stash, a mini version in the Proclou sector. avoriaz.com

APRÈS AT Children will love après time at the Aquariaz water park, which features an aquatic half-pipe and large pool with natural climbing walls. Follow it up with a horse-drawn sleigh ride, perfect for magical snowy evenings. Sans enfants, sip champagne and nibble tapas at JaJa Bar in the resort’s centre and dine at Les Enfants Terribles – the sister restaurant to Les Enfants Terribles in Megève and Val Thorens – at Hotel Des Dromonts (hoteldesdromonts. com). There are also two major music events in March: electro festival Snow Boxx (March 18-25) and also Rock the Pistes (March 19-25), which takes place throughout Portes du Soleil.

REST AT Want luxe? The five-star Premium Residence L’Amara (pierreetvacances.com) boasts accommodation options ranging from one- to five-bed apartments, that also include access to its Deep Nature Spa by Algotherm and impressive casual dining with great views at The Lodge at L’Amara. Rentals from €1,520 per week.

Aer Lingus flies to Geneva daily.

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REST AT Brand new to the resort is Hotel Fahrenheit 7 (fahrenheitseven.com), which describes itself as resolutely modern with a vintage twist. Think ski-in/ski-out, family friendly and young vibe. And don’t leave without trying the sauna, hammam and ice bed. Rooms from €223.

OFF-PISTE

VAL THORENS, FRANCE

C CATTIN/OT VAL THORENS

Take your pick – the highest resort in Europe offers access to the largest ski area in the world, with more than 600 kilometres of ski terrain in Les Trois Vallées. Ambitious intermediates can test their skill and stamina by skiing Méribel, Courchevel and Les Menuires in a single day. A vast natural cirque overlooked by six glaciers, Val Thorens offers fantastic off-piste for experienced skiers – check out the Orelle sector – but also caters for beginners, with 11 green runs and 29 blues in five designated zones. Best of all, novices have free access to four magic carpet lifts on beginner slopes. Also, the season runs until May, so it’s a great bet for late season ski trips. valthorens.com APRÈS AT Val Thorens has undergone a rebranding in recent years with an improved après scene to accompany swanky boltholes such as Hotel Koh-I Nor, Pashmina, Altapura and Le Fitz Roy. New après bars this winter include Le Zinc for live music and

Aer Lingus flies to Geneva daily.

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wine, Alpen Art for exhibitions and gourmet nibbles at Drive Inn, which features four F1 driving simulators. The resort also offers a plethora of activities, including ice driving, paragliding, La Tyrolienne zip line and a dedicated slope for ski touring practice.


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SMART EDIT | SKI RETREATS

HISTORIC

WENGEN, SWITZERLAND Positioned on a sunny sheltered plateau above the Lauterbrunnen valley, Wengen is famous for its pretty scenery, ski history and laid-back mountain village atmosphere. Set against a stunning backdrop of the Eiger mountain, its 213 kilometres of pistes are best for intermediate and beginner families, but there is also a number of tricky blacks for skiers and riders who like to be challenged. Explore the whole region – beautiful Mürren and Grindelwald – using the newly upgraded Jungfrau rail system, which carves through the Eiger mountain, taking skiers up to the Jungfraujoch, Europe’s highest train station at 3,454 metres. Or, take a break from skiing altogether and hop on the train to Mürren, where there’s ice-skating, a state-of-the-art sports centre and, atop the Schilthorn lift station, a revolving restaurant, Piz Gloria – which featured in the 1969 James Bond film On Her Majesty’s Secret Service. wengen.ch

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REST AT Sit back and enjoy the terrace-views of the Jungfrau massif at the four-star Caprice Hotel (caprice-wengen.ch), which offers a variety of “Winter Gourmet” packages, starting at CHF 1,086 (about €1,007) for three nights, based on two sharing (junior suites for four also available). XXX

JUNGFRAU REGION

APRÈS AT First, sample the classic Swiss dish, rosti, with either cheese or bacon at the Hotel Bahnhof’s Röstizzeria (bahnhof-scheidegg.ch). Next, enjoy après at the Tipirama wigwam or have aperitivios at the Hotel Eiger’s cosy bar (hoteleiger. com) and finish the evening with great food at family-run Hotel Baren (baeren-wengen.ch).

Aer Lingus flies to Zurich daily.


LANGLAUF MOOS/TIROLER ZUGSPITZ ARENA U. WIESMEIER

PANORAMIC

GARMISCH-PARTENKIRCHEN/ ZUGSPITZE, GERMANY

REST AT Sleep between two countries at Iglu-Dorf Zugspitze (iglu-dorf. com). Situated at 2,962 metres, it stays open until April 8 and offers a range of rooms including family, romance and love nests with access to Jacuzzi and sauna. Prices from €209 per person for a “Romance Plus” igloo.

Aer Lingus flies to Munich daily.

TIROLE R ZUG SPIT

Z ARE NA U. WIE SME

IER

Charming and historic Garmisch offers skiers access to a neat 60 kilometres of pistes in the Garmisch Classic area and a total of 139 kilometres in the Zugspitze Arena. It is also a gateway to 20 kilometres of skiing on Germany’s highest mountain at 2,962 metres, the Zugspitze. The skiing at Garmisch Classic is inverted – toughest runs low down, easiest ones higher up. While the terrain is best for beginners and intermediates, it’s also home to the challenging Kandahar downhill run (December 2017 will see the opening of a new cable car, the €45 million Eibsee, which promises faster access to the glacier). Intriguingly, when you ski on the Zugspitze you cross the natural border into Austria, to bucolic ski areas such as Ehrwald. You also get to enjoy stunning panoramic views of four countries from the top station of the Tiroler Zugspitzbahn and, if you’re lucky, ski powder. gapa.de / zugspitze.de

APRÈS AT Garmisch’s centre is lined with cafés and shops, perfect for people-watching during après. Sip a Gewürztraminer white wine or cocktail at Peaches cocktail bar (peaches.de) or schnapp it up at Kandahar 2. Go native north Tyrolean at meal time with game and meats at Zum Wildschütz restaurant.

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DINO COLLI/CORTINA DOLOMITI

SMART EDIT | SKI RETREATS

CHARMING

CORTINA, ITALY Located at the heart of a Unesco World Heritage site, stylish Cortina is known as the “Queen of the Dolomites” because it enjoys some of the best views of the surrounding peaks. Skiing is split into different areas, including the impressive Tofana. Ski right next to the incomparable rock of the Dolomiti and, if you’re a real expert, tackle Tofana’s technical couloirs. There is also plenty for culture vultures: learn about the Ladin language or embrace the area’s history by snow-shoeing up to Cinque Torri at Lagazuoi, on the front line during World War I. cortinadolomiti.org (prosecco, sparkling water, elderflower and mint) at Villa Sandi (villasandi.it) on the Corso Italia. Dine at Cortina’s only Michelinstar restaurant, Tivoli (ristorantetivolicortina. it), where chef Graziano Prest serves imaginative local dishes.

REST AT The Starlight Room is a cosy cabin high up at 2,055 metres, next to Rifugio di Col Gallina, and it gives guests the chance to soak up the enrosadira (pink glow) of the Dolomites at sunset and sunrise, with a bit of midnight star-gazing in between. From €300 per night for up to two people including dinner and breakfast. For reservations, contact +39 0436 2939 or email rifugio.colgallina@dolomiti.org.

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Aer Lingus flies to Venice from February 11.

GIACOM O POMPANIN

APRÈS AT Almost half the people who visit Cortina never actually go skiing, preferring its designer shops and passeggiata – the slow, scenic, sunset walks that Italians are famed for. Sip wine at Enoteca Cortina (enotecacortina.com) or order a “Hugo”


See Exquisite Pieces of Crystal manufactured before your eyes “It’s crystal clear” A factory tour where you can almost rub shoulders with the artisans as they produce beautiful objects.

“Great Tour of Waterford Crystal” Great history, very close to the process and really beautiful items.

No.1 of 53 attractions in Waterford

+353 (0) 51 317000 houseofwaterfordcrystal@fiskars.com www.waterfordvisitorcentre.com

Do hen y & Nes bi t t 4 / 5 L O W E R B A G G O T S T R E E T, D U B L I N

Live music Every Sunday and Monday from 8pm Food served all Day, Breakfast Lunch & Dinner Private function rooms available A Dublin Landmark…

One of Dublin’s oldest pubs, situated in the heart of Dublin City Centre. Doheny & Nesbitts is a haunt for many of the country’s leading politicians, sports and media personalities with bars and function rooms over three levels. Why not sample the finest in Irish food and drink. Come and enjoy the craic and the banter in Doheny & Nesbitts - Just a 1 minute walk from St. Stephens’ Green, a must for any trip to Dublin.

Voted overall

best pub in Ireland in the hospitality Ireland awards

W: www.dohenyandnesbitts.ie T: 00353 (0) 1 6762945 E: info@themangangroup.ie


DESTINATION | SPLIT

48 HOURS IN

Split

Yvonne Gordon explores an enticing blend of history, culture and cuisine on Croatia’s Dalmatian coast.

Clockwise from above, the city stretches out beneath St Domnius Cathedral; a quiet courtyard in the city centre; and an expansive room at the Palace Judita Heritage Hotel.

Sleep at ... HISTORY Set on Split’s main square in the Pavlović Palace, which dates back to the 16th century, and right beside the Diocletian’s Palace, is the Palace Judita Heritage Hotel – a beautiful property with exposed stone walls, elegant furnishings and some rooms overlooking Pjaca. Rooms are named after legendary local figures. Double rooms from €109. (Narodni trg 4, +385 21 420 220; juditapalace.com) BOUTIQUE Hotel Vestibul Palace is a tiny, luxury hotel inside the walls of the Diocletian’s palace, with a mix of Romanic, Gothic, Renaissance elements such as original Roman walls. Rooms have a modern interior design and handmade furniture, as well as a pleasant outdoor terrace for drinks. Double rooms from €180. (Iza Vestibula 4, +385 21 329 329; vestibulpalace.com) CONTEMPORARY If you’re looking for a modern, five-star luxury hotel with a pool, Hotel Atrium is it. It’s not right in the centre but is well equipped, and an interesting feature is the chance to see part of the Diocletian Aqueduct (built in the 300s) in the hotel basement. Double rooms from €160. (Domovinskog rata 49a, +385 21 200 000; hotel-atrium.hr)

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Don’t miss ... VIEWS Exploring and getting lost in the streets of the 1,700-year-old Diocletian’s Palace is a highlight but, to get your bearings and for beautiful views over the palace and the harbour, climb the 57 metre-high bell tower of St Domnius Cathedral. The octagonal cathedral was originally designed by Diocletian as a mausoleum and consecrated in the seventh century. BEACHES On the southside of the palace, Riva is Split’s waterfront promenade, the place for strolls, people watching and sunset cocktails. For swimming, head to the sandy Bačvice Beach, which is a short walk from the harbour. For something quieter, pack a picnic and head to one of the beaches at the foot of the forested Marjan peninsula such as Kašjuni or Kaštelet.

ISLANDS Take a ferry, boat tour or picnic cruise to one or two of the Dalmatian Islands just off the coast of Split. Brač is popular for its golden sandy beaches: the resort of Hvar is where the jet set hangs out, but has plenty of secluded beaches and coves, while Solta is a lovely quiet place for nature and swimming.

Fly to Split for just 10,000 Avios points.


Drink at ...

Clockwise from top left, a waterfront wander through Split; the double-height grandeur of Lvxor; Bokeria’s outdoor terrace makes for the perfect peoplewatching spot – accompanied by one of their fresh, flaky pastries.

Eat at ... CREATIVE Tucked away in a corner of the Diocletian’s Palace – in a 15th century villa – is the restaurant Augubio Congo. Food is traditional Mediterranean with a modern twist. Dishes might include monkfish with black truffle sauce and flavoured polenta or sea bass on a sweet beetroot cream. (Dioklecijanova 1, +385 99 323 9671) POPULAR Set over two storeys in an old hardware store, Bokeria Kitchen & Wine is a large, bright dining space that has taken its inspiration from Barcelona’s famous market. The menu includes everything from tapas to full

main courses, with seasonal produce and local fish, a good selection of Croatian wines and live jazz music some nights. (8 Domaldova, +385 21 355 577) RUSTIC Down a small alleyway beside the Palace, Konoba Varoš is a cosy, old-style restaurant with wooden beams and fishing nets on the ceiling hinting at the seafood on offer. Sea bass, bream, stuffed calamari and octopus feature, plus an excellent choice of meats and risotto – house specialities are prepared, Dalmatian-style, under a baking lid. (Ban Mladenova 9, +385 21 396 138; konobavaros.com)

DESIGN With everything from barbecued food to cocktails, plus a menu of more than 50 beers, Fabrique is a vibrant venue set in a huge space inside the old walls, with brick walls from the old Dešković Palace, archways and beautifully designed lighting as a feature. It also turns into a late club with DJs. (Trg Franje Tudmana 3, +385 98 175 1271; fgroup.hr/fabrique.com) CENTRAL Lvxor is right in the palace’s central square so take a cushion and enjoy coffee or drinks on the steps for some people watching or listening to live music in the evening. The café takes its name from Luxor in Egypt as the palace was once guarded by 30 sphinxes. (Kraj Sv. Ivana 11, +385 21 341 082; lvxor.hr) SCENIC Take a short hike up the hill of the Marjan Peninsula to here and you’ll be rewarded with views of the city, the harbour and out to the islands from the outdoor terrace of Teraca Vidilica. (Prilaz Vladimira Nazora 1, +385 95 871 8792)

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to SPLIT twice weekly from May.

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ADVERTORIAL

DEMAND IN IRISH PROPERTY MARKET SET TO CONTINUE IN 2017

I

reland is one of the most in-demand locations for commercial property investment, with sales exceeding €4 billion last year. While property prices have risen, Ireland is fundamentally seen as a market that represents good value with a stable outlook – a trend exemplified by the shift in the profile of buyers in the market, with international institutional investors increasingly competing with their Irish counterparts for prime product. Institutional investors take a long-term view and look for sustainable returns in a low volatility environment. Ireland now presents a compelling case to the international investor particularly following the Brexit vote in June 2016. The staple attractions remain that Ireland is committed to the Euro; represents a gateway for foreign companies to the European market; and has a growing

population of highly educated and motivated young people. Duff & Phelps Ireland’s Real Estate Advisory Group, has been highly active in the market and we are currently managing assets with values in excess of €400 million. Some of our higher profile work in the past 12 months includes completing the sale of Elm Park, a residential and office development in South Dublin, and advising on the disposal of a prime property investment portfolio off Grafton Street in the heart of Dublin city. Our multidisciplinary team has also been engaged in Commercial Real Estate (CRE) backed refinance work on buildings and sites in excess of €50 million over the past 12 months. Our real estate team in Dublin is comprised of chartered surveyors from advisory, development and agency backgrounds with in-depth

property asset management experience. Reinforced by the integrated resources of Duff & Phelps, we can provide a total “turn-key” solution to real-estate strategy, portfolio acquisition, development, direct management and disposal including: • Investment: Advisory, Due Diligence and Bid Management • Development: Property Strategy, Development Appraisal and Development Management • Property Asset Management: Strategic Advisory, Remediation, Restructuring, Management, and Disposal • Estate Management: Strategic Planning Advisory; Operational and Developmental • CRE Loan: Independent Monitoring Surveyor Services • Valuation: Red Book Valuations and Development Appraisals • Real estate fairness opinions

Peter Coyne, Director, Real Estate Advisory Group Peter.Coyne@duffandphelps.com +353 (0) 1 472 0748

Brian Cooney, Director, Real Estate Advisory Group Brian.Cooney@duffandphelps.com +353 (0) 1 472 0781

Anne O’Dwyer, Managing Director, Ireland Anne.ODwyer@duffandphelps.com +353 (0) 1 472 0730

Duff & Phelps

Valuation and Corporate Finance Advisors Molyneux House, Bride St, Dublin, D08 C8CN, Ireland +353 1 472 0700

Duff & Phelps is the premier global valuation and corporate finance advisor with expertise in complex valuation, disputes and investigations, M&A, real estate, restructuring, and compliance and regulatory consulting. The firm’s more than 2,000 employees serve a diverse range of clients from offices around the world. For more information, visit www.duffandphelps.ie


ON BUSINESS

Poll Position The White House may be in the process of seismic change but the US capital remains ripe for a visit, says Simon Carswell.

Making travel work for you


Business

Downtime at ... ART The National Gallery of Art has recently re-opened its East Wing, which houses modern and contemporary exhibitions. You can literally spend hours exploring the collection. (Sixth Street and Constitution Avenue NW, +1 202 737 4215; nga.gov) FILM The ambience of Landmark Theatres’ Atlantic Plumbing Cinema is more trendy hotel lobby than multiplex. Start with dinner at the bar and then choose between blockbuster or arthouse movie. Not finished your cocktail? No problem, bring it in to the theatre with you. Heck, order another. (807 V Street NW, +1 202 534 1965; landmarktheatres.com) FITNESS DC has been called America’s fittest city, so join the club by going for a run on one of the locals’ favourite trails. The C&O Canal in Georgetown is a great route, or combine your exercise with sightseeing on the National Mall, where eight kilometres will take you from the Capitol to the steps of the Lincoln Memorial and back.

ashington DC has long had a reputation for being a “business hours only” city, where the action finishes once the federal offices close – but that has changed in recent years. Where, in years gone by, commuters would leave the city at the end of the work day, now increasing gentrification keeps people in the city beyond the evening rush hour. The city is so popular that it is now even home to television celebrity Donald Trump, who has two properties: the White House and, a few blocks away, his new Trump International Hotel in the Old Post Office. (No, that day back in November wasn’t a weird dream: he is now the President.) Away from the monolithic federal buildings (and Trump’s hotel) that line Pennsylvania Avenue and the surrounding blocks, there are bustling

W

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neighbourhoods that are much more than bedroom communities for government employees. For years Adams Morgan, Dupont Circle and Georgetown were the only nightspots of note in the American capital, but now Shaw/U Street Corridor, H Street and Barracks Row/Capitol Hill are drawing people out in new directions. During daylight hours there’s plenty to keep you entertained, interested and well fed, too, from outdoor and indoor markets – Eastern Market and Dupont Circle Farmers’ Market – to the world’s largest museum and research complex – the Smithsonian Institution, which includes 19 museums and galleries, all free of charge, and the National Zoo, where you can visit the city’s favourite animals, the giant pandas. Whatever your taste, you’re sure to find something to interest you in this vibrant and diverse city.


Eat at … PETAL POWER The Cherry Blossom Festival is celebrated this March 20 to April 16, with Washingtonians and tourists alike eagerly awaiting “peak bloom”. Stroll around the Tidal Basin at sunrise or sunset to admire the trees with a backdrop of historic monuments.

Clockwise from opposite left, sunset at the Lincoln Memorial; spring blooming around the Tidal Basin; the C&O Canal is a scenic spot for joggers; and the recently reopened East Wing at the National Gallery of Art boasts excellent vistas.

OLD SCHOOL Stroll past the White House to build up an appetite on your way to the Old Ebbitt Grill. You’ll need it before you sit down to one of their hearty breakfasts or a platter of seafood for dinner. It’s a Washington institution, frequented by presidents, senators and congressmen making deals and sharing confidences in its booths since its establishment in 1856. (675 15th Street NW, +1 202 347 4800; ebbitt.com) EXPENSE IT If you’re near the World Bank or the IMF, a business lunch at the Blue Duck Tavern is a good bet. The attentive but unobtrusive service and food that’s a good blend of classic American dishes with modern styling come with a fairly hefty price tag, but the enormous apple pie served to share will soften that blow nicely. (Park Hyatt, 1201 24th Street NW, +1 202 419 6755; blueducktavern.com) SNUG Hidden away in the Shaw neighbourhood, a few blocks from the hectic nightlife, is the tiny Japanese restaurant Izakaya Seki. Started by a father and daughter team it has a sophisticated but unpretentious feel. The hand-drawn menu changes frequently, but includes sashimi and a range of small plates so delicious you’ll want to keep ordering all night, fuelled by excellent sake. (1117 V Street NW; sekidc.com)

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to WASHINGTON DC four times per week, increasing to daily from March.

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Business

Stay at ... RESIDENTIAL Leafy Georgetown is full of quaint townhouses, one of which houses The Avery, a new boutique inn. With only 15 rooms, the personal touch is a given here. Once you have settled into your bright and airy bedroom, visit the bar for a complimentary drink and then wander out into Georgetown for a walk on the riverfront, some shopping or dinner. Rooms from $200. (2616 P Street NW, +1 202 827 4390; averygeorgetown.com) FANCY If you want opulence and don’t want to give your money to the Trump family at their hotel, The Jefferson in downtown DC is one of the most luxurious five-stars in town, with a spa, piano bar and the Michelin-starred Plume restaurant. Built in 1923 in the Beaux Arts style, it was renovated in 2009 with careful attention to historical detail. This hotel has everything, including dog-friendly rooms, and an “executive canine officer” – a rescue-dog named Lord Monticello. Rooms from $420. (1200 16th Street NW, +1 202 448 2300; jeffersondc.com)

SLEEK The Irish-owned Dupont Circle Hotel is a home away from home for business visitors from Ireland and it wouldn’t be unusual to bump into a government minister, or even the Taoiseach, in the lobby. With an über-trendy renovation it has shed its twee Irishness and has become a popular haunt for the post-work crowd in this busy central location. Rooms from $329. (1500 New Hampshire Avenue, +1 202 483 6000; doylecollection.com)

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Clockwise from above, the lobby of the historic Jefferson Hotel; the plush Dupont Circle Hotel, and an airy XL guest room at The Avery.


We applaud

steely determination

We all like to challenge ourselves from time to time. Sometimes it’s because we think we can do it, other times because we need to know if we can. And sometimes it’s because it’s just there to be done. And the bigger the challenge the more determination we need. At Savills you will find this same level of determination. A team that likes a challenge, that really likes to push themselves. A team that doesn’t just want to get it done, but is determined to excel in every area of the process. There are many things that set us apart, we believe our determination is just one of them.

savills.ie


Business

Play at ... GIGS If you’re looking for live music, you’ll need to head to the Shaw neighbourhood, where you’ll find the 9:30 Club (815 V Street NW, +1 202 265 0930; 930.com) and The Black Cat (1811 14th Street NW, +1 202 667 4490; blackcatdc.com). Both known for their championing of indie and alternative music, they are still a vibrant part of the East Coast music scene.

CEREBRAL Washington is a city known for its talkers and it plays host to some of the best. One of the locals’ favourite evening activities is to go to hear someone talk on a topic that’s controversial, exciting or entertaining. Writers such as Joseph E Stiglitz, above, Michael Lewis and Hank Paulson have appeared at events run by the Politics and Prose bookshop. (5015 Connecticut Avenue NW, +1 202 364 1919; politicsprose.com)

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Venice Beach in all its sun-kissed Californian glory.

*BASED ON RTN FLIGHTS IN OFF-PEAK PERIOD, EXCL. TAXES AND CHARGES

BRUCE GUTH RIE

ZARA PICKEN

PANORAMIC Washington’s politicians are frequently accused of refusing to see their opponents’ points of view but, at the W Hotel’s POV bar, it’s hard not to appreciate the visual splendour of the city. A sunset drink at this rooftop bar offers an unbeatable panorama, from the White House – so close you can almost see into the residence – to the Capitol, with the Pentagon in the distance. (515 15th Street NW, +1 202 661 2400; povrooftop.com)


JAGUAR XE FROM €38,520

INGENIUM ENGINES. INGENIOUS EFFICIENCY. The Jaguar XE is here. It’s our most advanced, refined and efficient sports saloon ever, with a brand new range of high tech engines. These Ingenium diesel engines deliver breathtaking figures, from 99g/km CO2 and up to 3.8l/100km. From just €38,520 the XE is ready to roar.

LOWER EMISSIONS From 99g/km CO 2 HIGHER FUEL ECONOMY Up to 3.8l/100km (75.0mpg) LONGER SERVICE INTERVALS 2 years or 34.000km/21,000miles

jaguar.ie

Official fuel consumption figures for the XE range in l/100km: Urban 4.4 – 11.6, Extra Urban 3.4 – 6.1, Combined 3.8 – 8.1. CO2 emissions g/km: 99 - 194. Price quoted is for the Jaguar XE 2.0 D SE Manual.


Business

I LOVE VISITING …

A DAY IN THE LIFE

For Dublin glovemaker Paula Rowan, no day is ever quite the same as designing goes hand in hand with her retail business.

6am I wake up about six, I have no need for an alarm clock anymore. As soon as I’m out of bed I walk into the living room, which overlooks the sea – my main source of inspiration when designing. It’s a great start to the day.

I start I don’t stop. I was always told when you love what you’re doing, the time will fly. Around this time, I have a quick lunch and take a stroll on the beach if I’m working from home – the fresh air rejuvenates me. If I’m in town, it’s all go.

6.30am I like to exercise every morning for at least an hour and twice a week I do yoga or Pilates. Exercise has become an important part of my routine but, these days, I’m spending more time in Italy for work and I am finding it hard to make the time.

3pm I like to be in the shop because this is where it all began. I originally started working for my brother when I was studying in university. I think it’s important to meet my clients and hear their feedback, which I take into account when I’m designing. My shop is situated below the Westbury hotel, which has a lot of international visitors. I love meeting people and think it’s important to be hands on – pun intended.

7.30am I have a quick breakfast, usually something healthy. I love anything green: juices and teas, and have a quick read of the papers before I sit down to make work calls and answer emails. Italy is an hour ahead so this gives me ample opportunity, then I can work on my designs. 9am Realistically, I never know what exactly will happen on a given day. I don’t work only as a designer – I also have a boutique in the (paularowan.com) city centre, so I work in every single field of the business. When I’m designing my collection, I’m working on my designs all the time. I take inspiration from everything – a piece of art, architecture or what’s happening on the catwalk. I have a little notebook filled with images and swatches and sometimes I will work on a new design for the entire day. First the drawings, which I usually tweak several times, then I work on a silhouette, stitching, pinning, repositioning and tweaking bows, buttons, studs … whatever trim I’m working on until I’m finally happy. Then I sketch my final drawing. 2pm Often I don’t have a spare moment until well after 2pm. Scheduling is not easy as once

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6pm Close of business, but I regularly I stay late working on window displays. Although the shop is closed I often see faces peering in, and I’m always fascinated to see fingerprints on my window the next morning – it indicates how many people have been looking in the night before. 7pm During the week, when I get home, I like to relax. I love to cook, I find it really therapeutic. I’m so inspired by the food and flavours in Italy that I test a lot of these ideas at home. On the weekends, I usually go out for dinner as there are so many great restaurants in Dublin – Forest Avenue, DeVille’s in Dalkey … so many to choose from. 9pm There’s nothing nicer after a busy day than listening to good music and getting stuck into a great read – I’ve just finished reading Midnight in Sicily by Peter Robb. This should be accompanied by a good Irish whiskey, to quote Mark Twain: “Too much of anything is bad, but too much good whiskey is barely enough”.

DONEGAL For a real treat, I’d stay in Lough Eske Castle, a 15th-century, lavish estate with stunning views. It’s the ultimate indulgence. solishotels.com

NAPLES It’s a really edgy city, steeped in Italian history and culture. Generally I go there once a month for work, visiting the glove factories and overseeing the production. I love food and wine so it’s the perfect place for me. I love wandering around the old historic centre of Naples, Via dei Tribunali … it’s like a walk back in time and truly inspirational.

CADAQUÉS When I get the chance to take a holiday, I love to go to Cadaqués in Spain. This was a wellkept secret amongst artists such as Picasso and Dalí (and my favourite antiques shop outside Ireland, Es Doll, is there). It’s such a relaxing spot, the inspiration for my designs just flows when I’m there. I find myself working on sketches before I know it.


Having led the Irish commercial property market for the past eight decades and with 32 county coverage, Lisney has the valuation expertise that gives you that extra edge, whatever your specific needs. We like to call it added coveredge.

coveredge Secured Lending Valuations | Development Appraisals | Valuations for Company Accounts | Commercial Lease Advice Rent Reviews | Tax Valuations | Plant & Machinery Valuations/Sales | Commercial Rates Advice | Fund Valuations

DUBLIN

BELFAST

CORK

Brian Gilson Ronan Diamond T: +353-1-638 2700 E: valuation@lisney.com

Nicky Wright Gareth Johnston T: +44-2890-501 501 E: belfast@lisney.com

Margaret Kelleher Edward Hanafin T: +353-21-427 5079 E: cork@lisney.com

lisney.com


Business

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1

ACCESSORY A bit of a travel legend already, Bluesmart’s weather-resistant, hard-shell carry-on case not only charges your devices but it auto-locks for extra security and weighs itself so you know how much you’re packing. Best of all, the mobile app connects to your luggage to track it so you’ll always know where it is. The suitcase to end all suitcases? You bet. €469 at currys.ie.

EVENT Cloud security, cryptography and emerging threats to mobile platforms are among the topics explored at San Francisco’s RSA Conference, February 13-17. As well as learning the latest approaches in information security, you can pick the brains of security experts at informal get-togethers. (Moscone Centre; rsaconference.com)

3

BUSINESS

EVENT More than 10,000 attendees and industry trailblazers are expected to converge on Dublin’s silicon docks for the inaugural Dublin Tech Summit on February 15-16. Some 200 speakers and global investors, including PayPal’s Louise Phelan, CEO at IfWeRanTheWorld Cindy Gallop and entrepreneur Gary Vaynerchuk, will offer their valubale insights. (Convention Centre Dublin; dublintechsummit.com)

TRAVEL HOT LIST

Lisa Hughes rounds up first-class gadgets, executive events and new hotels.

4

EAT With celebrated chef Stefano Stecca at the helm, Nobu’s Kurt Zdesar brings authentic organic Italian fare to the heart of Marylebone with Fucina. The menu is derived from traditional Italian recipes and just about everything – from the handmade pasta that’s rolled before service to the gelato – is crafted in-house. (26 Paddington Street, +44 207 058 4444; fucina.co.uk)

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APP With the launch of a new app Trips, accommodation game-changer Airbnb is going beyond booking a place to stay and entering the realm of experiences. Under three key areas – Experiences, Places and Homes – the app keeps your trip itinerary in one place and aims to be a one-stop-shop where you can sort out your stay and then use Insider Guidebooks to find where locals rate for lunch or the best flat white in town. airbnb.com

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STAY With interiors by owner and award-winning designer Kit Kemp, it’s safe to say New York’s The Whitby is a design haven. A sister property to Crosby Street Hotel in Soho, each room at this new Midtown haunt has its own colour scheme, with marble and granite finishes in the bathrooms and floor-to-ceiling windows in the 86 guestrooms. A stone’s throw from Fifth Avenue, the 130-seat cinema is the icing on the cake. Rooms from $795. (18 W 56th; firmdalehotels.com)

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GADGET Take your travel photography to the next level with the Canon EOS M5, packed with high-end imaging technology, including a 24.2 Megapixel APS-C CMOS sensor, Dual Pixel CMOS AF and axis stabilisation to keep frames still even when your subject isn’t. With Bluetooth connectivity, you can view and transfer images on your smartphone without even taking the camera out of your bag. RRP €1,300 at canon.ie.


The Capitol – Opening March 2017

City Gate Plaza – 250,000 sq ft of Grade A office space under construction

One Albert Quay – Irish Commercial Project of the Year 2016

An unrivalled track record of delivering Grade A office space for multinational companies in Cork

JCD Group, 1104 City Gate Mahon, Cork, Ireland. Tel: +353 21 461 4726 Email: info@jcdgroup.ie

COMMERCIAL PROPERTY DEVELOPERS

www.jcdgroup.ie


Business Hotel

RUSTIC WONDER

Designer Leigh Tucker extols the virtues of Porto’s River House 1872. THE LOWDOWN On arriving at River House 1872 in Portugal’s Porto, you’d be forgiven for thinking you may have the wrong address. Located in the city’s Old Quarter – a UNESCO site – the hotel’s entrance is on the second floor, with a very modest-looking front door requiring you to ring the bell to gain entry. But once you are brought through to the magnificent passageway lined with stained-glass windows, you know you’re in for something a little bit special. This eight-room boutique hotel is the perfect new combination of rustic and modern, SUITE PETITE Leigh Tucker’s creating that “home away from home” and g Willow range of kids clothin feeling, which makes travelling for in accessories is available exclusively business all the more enjoyable. , ine onl and Exposed brick and stone are common Dunnes Stores nationwide, es.com features of the interior décor – this, from mid-February. dunnesstor combined with luxury bed linen and furnishings (feather pillows are a space, further adding to the air of bespoke personal favourite), results in high-end exclusivity. Wi-Fi is freely available and accommodation but without ostentation. Be flat screen TVs, if required, sleekly appear warned: 1872 River House books up fast but, upwards from cabinets (and while that may take heart, there are plans afoot to open a sound like a 1980s throwback, it perfectly second location some time next year. B&B suits the setting). On the first floor is the from €150. (Rua do Infante D. Henrique 133, cosy Living Room where tea, coffee and +351 961 172 805; 1872riverhouse.com) beer are on tap 24/7, removing the “need” for a mini bar in your room. The hotel also DOWN TO BUSINESS Bedrooms are boasts a beautiful terrace allowing you to spacious, four of which feature balconies enjoy the breathtaking river views. There with stunning views over the Douro river are newspapers and books aplenty – after – do your best to nab one. Each room devouring the delicious (and generous) is decorated differently to complement breakfast, you may never want to leave. the unique character of that particular

POP STAR Pick up a unique souvenir at Workshops Pop Up, a beautifully-floor-tiled concept store in “Baixa” (Downtown) housing pop-up enterprises, selling everything from kitchenware to jewellery, food to fragrances. Visitors can also sign up for cooking courses and wine pairing events. workshops-popup.com

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DOWNTIME With such a central location, it’s fitting that the River House offers bike rental, guided city tours and, for more healthconscious guests, guided morning jogs (pending reservations). Porto is predominantly a textile industry town so, naturally, it’s laden with boutique shops peddling their wonderfully crafted wares, from exquisite blanket stores to cool markets and trendy startups. Afterwards, head to Flow (Rua da Conceição 63) for a sumptuous meal at an unbelievably reasonable price. Or, go to Tapabento (Rua da Madeira 222) for some large, to-die-for tapas made from locally sourced produce – once again, you’ll be sure to leave with ample change in your pocket. After dinner, duck into one of the Old Quarter’s numerous bars and enjoy a glass (or two or three) of the local port. Well, when in Porto ...

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to LISBON and to SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA. Visit AerLingus.com for the best deals on holidays, car hire, travel insurance and more.


Your Dublin office search is over Looking for Central Dublin offices? We have over one million square feet of office space in all shapes and sizes in our ₏1bn+ portfolio in Dublin’s Central Business District, with another 300,000 under construction. Let Mark or Justin find the right space for you. mpollard@hiberniareit.com 00 353 (1) 536 9100

jdowling@hiberniareit.com www.hiberniareit.com


Business

6 THINGS I’VE LEARNT

3

Media is not changing back The last ten years have seen a huge change in how we discover and read media, with Facebook becoming the most important distributor in history. The old ways are not coming back. To avoid getting stuck in a “filter bubble” of people who agree with you, consider following some publications you disagree with. Unless you’re sure you’re already right about everything?

CONOR McCABE

4 PAUL QUIGLEY is the CEO of NewsWhip, an Irish tech company that shows global brands the stories that matter. Founded in 2011, the company employs 50 people between their New York office and Dublin HQ. Paul won the EY Emerging Entrepreneur of the Year Award in October 2016 with NewsWhip co-founder Andrew Mullaney.

1

Change course Some years back, I walked into my job at a New York City law firm and told my colleagues I was quitting and starting a digital media company called NewsWhip. They thought I was mad. I was leaving behind years of legal education and work, and starting a media company with no expertise or connections. It was terrifying but, once I committed to the decision, I knew it was the right call.

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2

Build something ambitious With NewsWhip, Andrew and I started with the question: how do we find the most interesting stories in the world? We solved it by building technology to track the stories being talked about by billions of people online. When word got out that we could predict these, customers came. Starting with a big question meant we could build a more interesting business.

Make marketing useful Most marketing works by appealing to people’s needs for fun, sex or prestige. Our approach is to give away useful information. Our marketing team uses data from our platform to produce guides and case studies we publish for free on our site. These bring in hundreds of leads each week. You catch more flies with honey than vinegar. So give away brain-honey.

5

Hire great people and trust them When a new hire joins NewsWhip, they’re adding new features within weeks. We think that setting goals and allowing teams and individuals to figure things out is far more effective than telling them exactly what to do. Trust breeds trust. If you give people high expectations, they tend to live up to them.

6

Sell to leaders As a technology company, we aim to satisfy the most demanding, cutting-edge leaders in media and brands. If we can give advanced users what they need, we’re creating something the rest of the market will want in a few months’ or years’ time.

Paul’s

SMART CITY

DESTINATION I grew up watching TV and movies in the 1980s and 1990s so New York was forever burned into my imagination as the most exciting place in the world. It still has the magic. I spend a week a month at NewsWhip’s New York office, near Wall Street in lower Manhattan.

SLEEP AT Rather than stay in fancy hotels, I rent Airbnbs or stay with friends when I’m in New York. It’s an incredible way to see the city, living with locals. Though, honestly, most locals in New York are other blow-ins. airbnb.ie

EAT AT Since 1997, the Pearl Oyster Bar in Greenwich Village has been serving the world’s best lobster roll. Slurp some oysters and chowder to start, and have the sundae to finish. Or just have another lobster roll. pearloysterbar.com

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to New York JFK and Newark daily, and from Shannon six times per week.


DEVELOPED BY

1 GEORGE’S QUAY, DUBLIN 2

LANDMARK WATERFRONT OFFICE HQ AVAILABLE TO LET 133,487 SQ FT

C O M P L E T E

R E D E V E L O P M E N T

OF NEW GRADE A OFFICE SPACE

28,000 SQ FT LARGE EFFICIENT FLOOR PLATES

3,760 SQ FT FEATURE RECEPTION AREA

2.8 M

FLOOR TO CEILING HEIGHT

5 STOREY SCENIC GLAZED LIFT

DART, LUAS, DUBLIN BUS and DUBLIN BIKES on doorstep COMPLETION AUGUST 2017 Deirdre Costello +353 1 6731600 deirdre.costello@eu.jll.com

Ger Carr +353 1 6731668 ger.carr@eu.jll.com

JLL Styne House Upper Hatch Street Dublin 2 www.jll.ie PRSA No: 002273


Historic O’Neill’s

Molly Malone Statue opposite O’Neill’s

The Head Chef Dave carving from a selection of freshly roasted meats at the Carvery

C

onveniently set in the heart of the city, around the corner from Trinity College, Grafton Street and across the road from the Molly Malone Statue, O’Neill’s is one of Dublin’s most famous and historic pubs. Trade has flourished here uninterrupted for over 300 years.

When you pay us a visit you will receive a warm welcome and you can enjoy its ageless character, numerous alcoves, snugs, nooks and crannies. To make your visit enjoyable we offer you ...

Extensive Irish Food Menu and Famous Carvery serving only the finest Irish Meat, Fish and Vegetables. In fact, Lonely Planet rate us as one of the Top 5 Places to find ´Real Irish food in Dublin’

Irish Music and Traditional Irish Dancing 7 nights-a-week

Roof-Top Beer Garden and Smoking Area

Largest selection of local Irish Craft Beers on draught in Ireland, representing as many of the local Craft Breweries as possible, rotating and guesting beers

Pour Your Own Pint tables

Free Wi-Fi to all our Customers

For the whiskey connoisseur there’s our Whiskey Bar where you’ll find a fantastic selection of Irish whiskeys and malts

HD and 3D Screens for the Sports Fan with major international league games.

Our ‘Really Good’ Full Irish Breakfast can’t be beaten for quality and value. 11 items plus tea/coffee and toast, pictured below.

Really Good Full Irish Breakfast only

€7.95

*This special offer is available Mon-Fri only, 8am-11.30am. Our ‘Really Good’ Breakfast Menu is served 7 days a week.

Traditional Irish Music and Dancing 7 nights-a-week

M.J. O’Neill SuffolkStreet,Dublin2 Tel. 01 679 3656 www.oneillspubdublin.com

Mon-Thurs: 8.00am-11.30pm Fri: 8.00am-12.30am Sat: 8.00am-12.30am Sun: 8.00am-11.00pm SatNav 53.343958, -6.260796

Top 5 places to find Real Irish Food in Dublin

*


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Flying with Aer Lingus

Inflight Sit back, relax and let Aer Lingus look after your inflight comfort and entertainment. Enjoy delicious food, the latest movies, a wide range of shopping and news from Aer Lingus.

126 Welcome aboard 127 Your comfort and safety 140 Flight Connections 142 Connecting to Wi-Fi 144 Our Route Networks Inflight Entertainment 130 Movies to North America 131 Movies from North America 132 Our Classic Movie Selection 135 Television On Demand 138 Radio On Demand 139 Music On Demand


Welcome aboard Flying with Aer Lingus means you will experience excellent customer service, comfort and, of course, safety. There’s plenty for you to enjoy on board and, on the following pages, you will discover how we’ll be taking care of you. After all, we’re here to help you make the most of your flight. If you have any special requests, be sure to let us know.

Why not try speaking a few words of the native language while you are visiting Ireland!

Fáilte Welcome Dia dhuit Hello Slán go fóill Goodbye ...is ainm dom My name is... Conas atá tú? How are you? Tá mé go maith I’m good Sláinte! Cheers Go raibh maith agat Thank you Gabh mo leithscéal Excuse me Cara Friend

Aer Lingus is proud to be recognised as Ireland‘s only 4-star airline, awarded by Skytrax, the world‘s leading airline and airport review specialists.

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In touch with Aer Lingus If you are availing of Wi-Fi on your flight today, why not let us know what you’re up to on board and where you are going. Share your photos if you’d like, because we would love to hear from you on Facebook, Twitter and YouTube.

Guests with wheelchair requirements If you require a wheelchair to help you reach or depart from the plane, then we’re here to help you. Your comfort and safety are our priority, so please let us know at least 48 hours in advance and we will look after you. When contacting us you will need your booking reference number.

Take a photo and post it to our Facebook page. Let us know how you’re enjoying your flight. Chat to us on Twitter where you’ll also find the latest flight information. View our videos of milestone events, festivals, sponsorships and campaigns.

Assistance Contact Details specialassistance@aerlingus.com Ireland (0818) 365 011 09:00–17:00 Mon–Fri 10:00–16:00 Sat & Sun 10:00–16:00 Bank Holidays UK (0871) 718 20 21 Europe +353 1 886 8333 USA (516) 622 4222


Your comfort and safety When you fly with us, you want to know that we’re looking after your comfort and safety at all times. We are. It is our number one priority and our crew are trained to ensure you reach your destination as relaxed as you need to be. In return, we ask for your attention when it comes to safety announcements and knowing when, and how, to turn on your mobile, smartphone or portable device.

You can use portable electronic equipment on flights but some devices can interfere with aircraft equipment, creating potential safety risks. Knowing how to set up your device for flight use and when to switch it on and off are therefore very important. Please note that certain devices may not be used.

To avail of our Wi-Fi and Mobile Network, on our A330 aircraft, devices must be switched off flight mode – once our crew advise it is safe to do so.

Devices permitted at any time Devices powered by micro battery cells and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers.

Devices permitted in flight only* Laptops, portable CD-players, Mini-disk players, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers and electronic toys. For the comfort of other guests, audio devices should be used with a headset. If using laptops inflight please select flight safe mode before takeoff. *Not permitted during taxi/take-off/ initial climb/approach/landing.

Are you ready for take-off and landing?  Is your mobile phone and/

or other portable electronic device in flight mode?

Devices prohibited at all times Devices transmitting radio frequency intentionally such as walkie-talkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and Mini-disk Recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN).** **Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.

   

Is your seatback fully upright? Is your armrest down? Is your tabletop stowed? Have you stored your bags in the overhead locker or under the seat in front of you?

To use your mobile phone and all other portable electronic devices during taxi, take-off or landing, they must be switched to flight mode or the flight safe setting.

ON Airplane Mode

If you wish to use your phone during your flight, please make sure you select flight safe mode before your phone is powered off. Please note, if your device does not have a flight safe mode it may not be used on your flight. After landing and only when crew have advised that it is safe to do so, you are permitted to use your mobile phone, provided it is within easy reach. You must remain seated with your seatbelt fastened and follow the instructions of the cabin crew.

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Here are a few tips to make your journey more comfortable and reduce jet lag.

KEEP MOVING On longer flights particularly, try to change your sitting position regularly and avoid crossing your legs. Take a walk in the cabin once the seat belt sign is off as this will get your circulation going and refresh your legs.

EAR CARE Cabin pressure changes can be painful, particularly if you have a cold, sinusitis or existing ear problems. If you experience these problems during the flight, have a chat to our cabin crew.

Your comfort and safety A safe flight for everyone It is worth repeating that your safety – and that of everyone on board – is our number one priority therefore we ask that you:

DRINK UP Keep yourself hydrated throughout the flight by drinking plenty of water.

 Similarly, behaviour or language

 Please pay attention to instructions given to you by the cabin crew.

 Do not consume any alcohol brought

onto the aircraft by you or another guest (including Duty Free alcohol purchased from Boutique). It is illegal to do so.

EYE CARE If you are a regular contact lens wearer, it is a good idea to bring your glasses with you in case your eyes feel dryer than usual.

 Do not interrupt cabin crew while

they carry out their duties and do not interfere with aircraft equipment.

 We also want to make it clear that

Aer Lingus may refuse to allow a guest on board if it is thought that too much alcohol has been consumed.

towards other guests or crew members that is deemed to be threatening or abusive will not be tolerated.

 Taking photographs or video of airline

personnel, equipment or procedures is strictly prohibited on board.

 Taking photographs or video of other

guests on board without their express consent is prohibited.

 You may take photos or video of guests travelling in your party for your own personal use.

Airbus 330-2

00

For your Airbus 319

For your

Fógra Sábhái Pour votre lteacht Sécurité Für ihre Sicherheit Para su Seguri dad

Safety

ilteacht Fógra Sábhá Sécuri té Pour votre Sicher heit Für ihre Seguri dad zza Para su Sicure Per la vostra

Please

do not remove

Safety Per la vostra Sicurez za Säkerh et ombord Sikkerh et om bord Sikkerh ed om bord Please do

from Aircraft

TIME ZONES Help beat jet lag by setting your watch to your destination’s time when you arrive on board. This will help you adjust to the new time zone faster.

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ON Airplane Mode

ON Airplane Mode

ON Airplane

ON Airplane

Mode

not remove

from Aircraft

Please pay attention to the cabin crew while they demonstrate the use of safety equipment before take off, and we strongly recommend that you read the safety instruction card in the seat pocket in front of you.

Mode

In line with Irish Government regulations, Aer Lingus has a no smoking and no electronic cigarettes policy on board. These are not permitted in any part of the cabin.


Movies Flights to North America Aer Lingus presents a variety of recently released movies for your enjoyment on board your flight to North America. Welcome to the international multiplex cinema in the sky!

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Action Deepwater Horizon 104 mins

PG13

A dramatisation of the April 2010 disaster when the offshore drilling rig, Deepwater Horizon, situated in the Gulf of Mexico, exploded and created the worst oil spill in US history. Stars Mark Wahlberg, Kurt Russell, John Malkovich and Kate Hudson. EN FR DE IT

Action

G

General

PG

Parental Guidance

PG13 Parental Guidance

Not suitable for children under 13.

R

EN FR DE

Inferno

PG13

120 mins A man is drawn into a world centred on Dante’s Inferno. Stars Tom Hanks, Felicity Jones, Irrfan Khan EN FR DE IT ES

Keeping Up with the Joneses

PG13

106 mins A couple try to keep up with their neighbours. Stars Zach Galifianakis, Isla Fisher, Jon Hamm

127 mins A boy uncovers a refuge for kids. Stars Eva Green

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

Comedy

PG13 The Rocky Horror Picture Show: Let‘s Do the Time Warp Again

89 mins A remake of the original. Stars Laverne Cox EN

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Miss PG13 Peregrine‘s Home for Peculiar Children

Swiss Army Man

R

88 mins A dachshund brings happiness to people‘s lives. Stars Greta Gerwig, Keaton Nigel Cooke, Danny DeVito EN

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R

The Girl on the Train

R

97 mins A man befriends a corpse that washes up on a beach. Stars Paul Dano, Daniel Radcliffe

125 mins A man works for some dangerous criminal organisations. Stars Ben Affleck, Anna Kendrick, JK Simmons

EN FR DE

EN FR DE IT ES

Drama

Wiener-Dog

The Accountant

Kids

R

The Whole Truth

R

Trolls

PG

112 mins A woman becomes entangled in a mystery. Stars Emily Blunt, Haley Bennett, Luke Evans, Justin Theroux

93 mins An attorney works to get his teenage client acquitted. Stars Keanu Reeves, Renée Zellweger

93 mins The trolls set off on a journey to rescue their friends. Voiced by Anna Kendrick, Justin Timberlake, Zooey Deschanel

EN FR DE IT ES

EN

EN FR DE IT ES

IT ES

Restricted Not suitable for children under 18. Available in English Français Deutsch Italiano Español

CCEN Closed Caption English


Movies Flights from North America Aer Lingus presents a variety of recently released movies for your enjoyment on board your flight from North America. Welcome to the international multiplex cinema in the sky!

Comedy Bridget Jones‘s Baby 123 mins

R

Forty-something and single again, Bridget decides to focus on her job. In an unlikely twist she finds herself pregnant, but with one hitch… she can only be 50% sure of the identity of her baby’s father. Stars Renée Zellweger, Colin Firth, Patrick Dempsey. EN FR DE IT ES

Action

Doctor Strange

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Biography

PG13

115 mins A former neurosurgeon embarks on a journey of healing. Stars Benedict Cumberbatch, Chiwetel Ejiofor, Rachel McAdams EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Masterminds

PG13

91 mins A guard organises a big bank heist. Stars Kate McKinnon, Kristen Wiig, Zach Galifianakis

EN FR

The Magnificent Seven (2016)

PG13

130 mins A town falls under the deadly control of an industrialist. Stars Denzel Washington, Chris Pratt EN FR DE IT ES

Drama

Anthropoid

Documentary

R

Snowden

R

120 mins Based on the true story of Operation Anthropoid. Stars Jamie Dornan, Cillian Murphy, Brian Caspe

130 mins A man leaks NSA surveillance techniques to the public. Stars Joseph Gordon-Levitt, Shailene Woodley, Melissa Leo

EN

EN FR ES

The Beatles: PG Eight Days a Week – The Touring Years 106 mins This film explores how The Beatles came together. Stars Paul McCartney, Ringo Star EN

Kids G

General

PG

Parental Guidance

PG13 Parental Guidance

Not suitable for children under 13.

R

Imperium 109mins

R

The Girl with All the Gifts

R

The Sea of Trees

PG13

Middle PG School: The Worst Years of My Life

An agent goes undercover to take down a terrorist group. Stars Daniel Radcliffe, Toni Collette, Tracy Letts

A young girl is infected with a dangerous zombie virus. Stars Gemma Arterton, Glenn Close

111 mins Two men lost in a forest search for a way out. Stars Matthew McConaughey, Naomi Watts, Ken Watanabe

92 mins Rafe takes on a school principal and his rules. Stars Griffin Gluck, Lauren Graham

EN

EN

EN FR

EN

111 mins

Storks

EN PG

87 mins A stork accidentally activates the Baby Making Machine. Voiced by Andy Samberg, Jennifer Aniston, Kelsey Grammer

FR DE IT ES

Restricted Not suitable for children under 18. Available in English Français Deutsch Italiano Español

CCEN Closed Caption English

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

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Our Classic Movie Selection

We also provide a selection of classic movies available on flights to and from North America. Timeless favourites such as Driving Miss Daisy and Casablanca are available, as well as a selection of Irish short films and features.

Adam PG13 99 mins Stars Hugh Dancy, Rose Byrne, Peter Gallagher

American R Sniper 133 mins Stars Bradley Cooper, Sienna Miller, Kyle Gallner

Argo R 116 mins Stars Ben Affleck, Bryan Cranston, John Goodman

Black Swan R 109 mins Stars Natalie Portman, Mila Kunis, Vincent Cassel

Casablanca PG 102 mins Stars Humphrey Bogart, Ingrid Bergman, Paul Henreid

Driving PG Miss Daisy 97 mins Stars Morgan Freeman, Jessica Tandy

Edward PG13 Scissorhands 105 mins Stars Johnny Depp, Winona Ryder

Enough PG13 Said 93 mins Stars Julia Louis-Dreyfus, James Gandolfini

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT

EN FR DE

EN FR

EN FR DE IT ES

Fight Club R 139 mins Stars Brad Pitt, Edward Norton, Meat Loaf

Gravity PG13 91 mins Stars Sandra Bullock, George Clooney, Ed Harris

Home PG Alone 102 mins Stars Macaulay Culkin, Joe Pesci, Daniel Stern

In Bruges R 107 mins Stars Colin Farrell, Brendan Gleeson, Ciarán Hinds

Lethal R Weapon 110 mins Stars Mel Gibson, Danny Glover, Gary Busey

Let‘s R Be Cops 104 mins Stars Jake Johnson, Damon Wayans Jr

Letters from R Iwo Jima 141 mins Stars Ken Watanabe, Kazunari Ninomiya

Lincoln PG13 145 mins Stars Daniel Day-Lewis, Sally Field, David Strathairn

EN FR DE

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR

EN FR DE ES

EN FR DE

EN FR DE IT ES

JP CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Love the PG13 Coopers 110 mins Stars Steve Martin, Diane Keaton, John Goodman

Mad Max: R Fury Road 121 mins Stars Tom Hardy, Charlize Theron

Once R 85 mins Stars Glen Hansard, Markéta Irglová, Hugh Walsh

Runner R Runner 91 mins Stars Ben Affleck, Justin Timberlake, Gemma Arterton

Sex and the City 137 mins Stars Sarah Jessica Parker, Kim Cattrall

The Muppet G Christmas Carol 89 mins Stars Michael Caine, Dave Goelz

The PG Nightmare Before Christmas 77 mins Stars Danny Elfman

The Great PG13 Gatsby (2013) 134 mins Stars Leonardo DiCaprio

EN

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE

EN DE IT

EN FR

EN FR DE IT ES

The PG13 Apparel 17 mins Stars Andrew Bennett, Aidan Crowe, Mike Finn

R

Irish Shorts and Features

Atlantic PG13 Roar – A Love Letter to Donegal 7 mins Stars Michael McLaughlin

Day Off PG13 15 mins Stars Dawn Bradfield, Myles Breen, Sean Flynn

Gone Viral PG13 8 mins Stars Senan Byrne, Eddie Whelan

Mattress PG13 Men 81 mins Stars Michael Flynn, Paul Kelly

Positive PG13 Discrimination 13 mins Stars Róisín O‘Donovan, Liam Burke

Robbie PG13 the Rabbit 11 mins Stars Conall Keating, Andrew Stanley

South PG13 74 mins Stars Darragh O‘Toole, Joe Rooney, Emily Lamey

EN

EN

EN

EN

EN

EN

EN

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EN


Television On Demand On Demand TV allows you to select and view your favourite TV shows. Aer Lingus is home to some of the most anticipated new shows on TV including Comedy, Drama, Documentary, Lifestyle, Business, Sports and Kids programmes. Business

Studio 1.0

This month‘s Studio 1.0 sees LinkedIn CEO, Jeffer Weiner, sit down with host Emily Chang to discuss the company‘s recent stock plunge and his business strategy. In CNBC Conversation, fashion designer Tom Ford opens up about his life and his time at fashion power houses Gucci and YSL. The Edge looks at the multi-billion-dollar a year industry of Changing Charity and how technology is likely to transform this so-called third sector.

Comedy

Documentary

Looking for the Hobbit

Looking for the Hobbit goes in search of the legends and places that inspired The Hobbit and The Lord of the Rings. The Age of Aerospace chronicles how Bill Boeing and his contemporaries forged an industry, delivering advancements in communication, transportation, and warfare. Also available on board are the nature documentary Islands of Creation, about how evolution creates new species and a new episode of How It‘s Made: Dream Cars featuring the Bentley Mulsanne.

Lifestyle

50 Ways to Kill Your Mammies

In 50 Ways To Kill Your Mammies, Baz, his mother Nancy and a host of other mammies abseil down a 140ft waterfall in Costa Rica. Ali wants to look like Beyoncé on her big day in Say Yes to the Dress. Tracks & Trails features former rugby player Keith Wood, as he treks down the western side of Lough Derg. Culturefox TV offers a guide to Irish culture and events, whilst Getaways sees hosts Joe Lindsay and Angela Scanlon report from San Francisco.

Sport

Drama As we witness a golden age in TV drama, Aer Lingus offers engaging choices with boxsets of Game of Thrones, The Night Of and Billions on offer, as well as episodes of The Flash, Show Me a Hero and Quarry.

Mom

American sitcom Mom first hit our screens in 2013 and has amassed a number of awards, including two consecutive Prime Time Emmy awards for supporting actress, Allison Janney. With two episodes available on board, the antics of this dysfunctional mother/daughter duo are guaranteed to have you in stitches. Also on board are episodes of Bored to Death, Vice Principals, Bob‘s Burgers and Fresh Off the Boat.

Kids

Giving Tales

Kids will surely enjoy one of Hans Christian Anderson‘s fairy tales in Giving Tales, developed in association with UNICEF Goodwill Ambassador, Sir Roger Moore and featuring the voice talents of Ewan McGregor, Stephen Fry and Dame Joan Collins. Also on board are episodes of the animated series Dora the Explorer and Planet Cosmo.

Six Nations Classic Matches

Six Nations Classic Matches re-visits the 2014 clash between France and Ireland at the Stade De France which saw the visitors clinch the Six Nations title. American Motor Stories gets up close and personal with dragsters, muscle cars, hot rods and custom builds while 21 Days offers insight into stories like those of surfers Mick Fanning, Joel Parkinson, Nat Young and Adriano de Souza.

News & Events In addition to our extensive selection of TV shows, Aer Lingus brings you exclusive weekly news updates, as well as updates from the world of sport.

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Television On Demand Drama Boxsets

Game of Thrones SEASON 6 With a record-breaking 34 Emmy Awards to its name, the success of this popular HBO fantasy drama series has shown no signs of waning. Viewers have been gripped by the violence, death, love, betrayal and loyalties that its characters bring to the table in their efforts to secure the coveted Iron Throne. The series has been largely based on the plot of George RR Martin’s best-selling A Song of

Ice and Fire series, but having reached the plot of the latest novel at the end of season five, the writing team make a departure this time around basing their storylines on discussions they have had with Martin (who is also a producer on the show) instead. This season will begin in the aftermath of some major upheavals at the end of the last series. Jon Snow is dead. Cersei Lannister has fallen

from power and endured a shameful walk of atonement. Arya Stark is blind and her sister Sansa has escaped the evil grasp of Ramsey Snow with her cousin Theon Greyjoy. Queen of Dragons, Daenerys Targaryen finds herself alone and surrounded by a large group of Dothraki. Expect much more engrossing drama to come in this outstanding series.

OUR TOP TV CHOICE Game of Thrones is a fantasy drama series chronicling the violent struggles amongst the realms noble families.

The Night Of SEASON 1 One night in New York City, Pakistani-American student Nasir ‘Naz‘ Khan (played by Riz Ahmed) picks up a beautiful young woman called Andrea as he makes his way to a party in his father’s taxi cab. Naz never makes it to the party and instead goes back to Andrea’s place, where following a night of drugs, alcohol and sex, he awakens to find her stabbed to death in bed with no recollection of what has happened.

This intriguing eight-part crime series delves into the murder case that ensues, following the police investigation and legal proceedings and examining the criminal justice system and the purgatory of New York’s main jail complex, Rikers Island, where Naz awaits his trial. Bill Camp who has also starred in the films 12 Years a Slave and Lawless plays veteran NYPD homicide detective, Dennis Box, who builds a compelling case against Naz, while John Turturro plays John Stone, the

attorney in charge of defending Naz who trawls NYPD precincts at night in search of clients. The Night Of is directed by the Oscar-winning writer of Schindler’s List, Steven Zaillian and this is his first TV series. It is executive produced by Zaillian, Richard Price, Jane Tranter, Angie Stephensen and Peter Moffat. The HBO series was filmed in and around Manhattan and is based on the BBC’s Criminal Justice, created by Peter Moffat.

The Night of is based on a complex New York City murder case with cultural and political overtones.

Billions SEASON 1 Set in the world of New York high finance, Billions is a complex and timely drama about the pursuit of an ambitious hedge fund manager by a ruthless US attorney. Bobby ‘Axe‘ Axelrod is a self-made Wall Street billionaire played by Emmy award-winner Damian Lewis. He is a shrewd businessman who enjoys all the trappings of his success but never reveals his full hand to anybody.

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US attorney, Chuck Rhoades, played by another award-winning actor, Paul Giamatti, leads the fight against financial corruption in America. He is the most powerful prosecutor in the land and has a string of successful insider trading cases behind him. When Chuck gets a tip off that Bobby may be involved in some dodgy dealings, a showdown between these two strong-willed characters is inevitable as both men use

their power and influence in various attempts to outmaneuver each other. Created by Brian Koppelman, David Levien and Andrew Ross Sorkin, Billions first aired in January 2016. It is loosely based on the activities of Preet Bharara, the US Attorney for the Southern District of New York, who gave the creators guidance on the mechanics of his office while they were researching for the show.

Billions is loosely based on a crusading US attorney who cracked down on financial crime.


Radio On Demand

Our boarding music contains a number of contemporary Irish artists including Paddy Casey, Gavin James, Van Morrison, Bell X1, The Script, The Kanyu Tree, Kodaline, George Murphy and many more.

On Demand Radio allows you to select and view your favourite radio shows.

EASY LISTENING

Fitzpatrick Hotels An hour long compilation of songs that will suit any music taste. Brought to you by The Fitzpatrick Hotel Group USA.

KIDS

CL ASSIC AL

The Blue of the Night with Carl Corcoran Carl Corcoran connects different musical landscapes through centuries, genres and soundscapes.

IRISH

Lost in Music

Ceol na nGael

Irish Pulse

Louise Duffy from TodayFm specialises in finding new music gems, alongside the best in pop and indie music.

A traditional music programme presented by Seán Ó hÉanaigh. Ceol traidisiúnta agus ceol tíre den scoth.

This is a compilation of some of Ireland‘s best contemporary artists.

Nicky Byrne & Jenny Greene on 2fm

Pop Charts

The Eoghan McDermott Show

POP

RTÉ Junior: Classical Kids Join Ian McGlynn for a fun introduction to classical music including a performance by the National Youth Orchestra of Ireland.

Late Date Timeless tracks, hidden gems and the best new Irish music. Join Cathal Murray, RTÉ Radio 1 for a selection of songs created specially for Aer Lingus.

POP

Join Nicky and Jenny for a fun mix of great music and interesting chat. They even attempt to play the ukulele! ROCK

The Greatest Hits of All Time – RTÉ Gold RTÉ Gold is an hour long show presented by Paul Moriarty and plays the greatest hits of all time from the 60’s to the 90’s.

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The Big Ride Home Dara Quilty from Dublin’s 98FM is on board right now to count down the Top 20 Irish songs from the past year.

Radio Nova: Marty Miller Music and chats with famous rock stars such as Jim & Charlie from Simple Minds, Alice Cooper and Tico Torres from Bon Jovi.

Listen to a compilation of your favourite pop songs that have topped the charts in recent years.

Eoghan McDermott from 2FM Drivetime presents a special Aer Lingus show. Expect laughs and a lively soundtrack!

TA L K R A D I O

Documentary on One

Best of Moncrieff

We offer two radio documentaries on this flight. The first is on Ireland’s Secret Hangman. The second features the musician, Jeff Buckley.

Baz Ashmawy popped in to chat with Seán Moncrieff about everything from Snapchat to vasectomy!


Music On Demand Browse through our selection of music and create your own playlist from a collection of over 1,000 albums.

ALL TIME FAVOURITES

Cyndi Lauper

Cyndi Lauper The Essential Cyndi Lauper James Brown Platinum & Gold Collection: James Brown Leonard Cohen Death of a Ladies‘ Man

COUNTRY

Jason Aldean

Alan Jackson Genuine: The Alan Jackson Story Jason Aldean They Don’t Know Willie Nelson The Demos Project, Vol 1

M E TA L

Ozzy Osbourne

Amon Amarth Jomsviking Judas Priest Redeemer of Souls Ozzy Osbourne Diary of a Madman (Remastered Original Recording)

A LT E R N AT I V E

Tom Grennan

CRX New Skin Karmin Leo Rising Natalie Press Side by Side Tall Heights Neptune Tom Grennan Something in the Water

ELEC TRO

Netsky

Faithless Sunday 8 PM Fatboy Slim Palookaville Netsky 3 Saint Etienne Smash the System: Singles and More Various Big Beats 2

OPER A

Leonard Bernstein

Leonard Bernstein– ACT01 West Side Story Paul Potts One Chance Various Opera‘s Legendary Performances 2 Verdi Opera‘s Greatest Duets

CL ASSIC AL

Glenn Gould

Glenn Gould 50 Masterworks – Glenn Gould Ulrike Hofbauer & Ensemble &cetera Leonardo Leo: Sacred Works Various Artists Barry Meets Beethoven IR ISH

The Kanyu Tree

Damien Dempsey It‘s All Good – The Best of Damien Dempsey The Kanyu Tree People Street Van Morrison Keep Me Singing P OP

Little Mix

Little Mix Glory Days Magic! Primary Colours Olly Murs 24 Hrs Robbie Williams The Heavy Entertainment Show

S P O T L I G H T: G AV I N JA M E S

Bitter Pill is the debut studio album from Dublin singer-songwriter Gavin James, featuring the popular hits For You, Nervous and the soul-infused title track Bitter Pill, which won Irish Song of the Year at Ireland’s Choice Music Prize in 2015 and received rave reviews following a performance on James Corden’s The Late Late Show. Find out more about Gavin, his creative process and his success as he introduces tracks off this spectacular debut.

JA Z Z

Bria Skonberg

Bria Skonberg Bria Erroll Garner Ready Take One The Bad Plus It‘s Hard Tony Bennett The Classic

RNB

Alicia Keys

Alicia Keys Here Craig David Following my Intuition Usher Hard II Love Fantasia The Definition of...

KIDS

Giving Tales

Leonard Bernstein Bernstein Favorites: Children‘s Classics Hans Christian Anderson Giving Tales Various Trolls (Original Movie Soundtrack) ROCK

Bruce Springsteen

Bruce Springsteen Chapter and Verse Kings of Leon Walls Kongos Egomaniac Fatherson Open Book Steve Vai Modern Primitive

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Flight Connections at Dublin Airport

WELCOME TO DUBLIN AIRPORT

DUBLIN

Where are you flying to?

Are your bags checked through to your final destination? YES Follow signs for Flight Connections

NO Follow the signs for ‘Baggage Reclaim’. After clearing passport control, your baggage belt will be displayed on the screens. Collect your bags, exit through Customs and proceed to Aer Lingus Check-in Terminal 2.

USA

ALL OTHER DESTINATIONS

GATES 401– 426 15 minutes walk to gate

GATES 401–426 15 minutes walk to gate GATES 101–335 20 minutes walk to gate

Follow signs for US Preclearance

Have all your required forms filled out.

Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk Our staff are on hand for any queries you might have. Here you can: – Collect your onwards boarding pass – Check your next boarding gate and flight status

Gate Information Screens

AerClub Concierge, Platinum and Silver members are welcome to visit the Aer Lingus Lounge. You can work, eat, drink or even grab a shower between flights.

Passport Control and Security Screening

Hand Baggage search

Duty free purchases containing liquids over 100ml must be in a sealed and tamper-proof bag with the receipt inside.

Follow signs for Flight Connections

Enjoy refreshments in one of the restaurants or cafés.

DEPARTURE GATE

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Dublin Airport provides FREE Wi-Fi throughout the Terminal

DUBLIN


Flight Connections for North American destinations If you have any queries about your connecting flight at any of our North American destinations please ask us. We will do everything we can to get you to where you need to be.

Staying connected on board* Mobile Network on board

With our on board mobile network, AeroMobile, you can use your phone for text, email and internet browsing, just like you would on the ground**. Stay connected even as you cross the Atlantic.

Flight Connections T2 Heathrow Airport On arrival at Terminal 2, Heathrow, please follow the purple signs for Flight Connections. Which terminal are you flying from? For Terminals 3, 4 and 5, a dedicated bus will transfer you. Buses are free and depart every six to ten minutes. If you are flying from Terminal 2, proceed to security screening and enter the departures lounge.

Departure lounge Check the screens in the departure lounge for when your gate opens and when your flight is ready for boarding.

Wi-Fi on board in 6 steps

On our A330 aircraft you can stay in touch with everything that matters, even when you’re in the air. Here’s how to connect your Wi-Fi enabled devices.

1 Switch on

Once the safety belt sign has been switched off, turn on your device and connect to the Telekom HotSpot Network. SSID: Aer_Lingus_WiFi

1 Switch on

Switch on your mobile when it is safe to do so, keeping it on silent or vibrate mode. Ensure you switch off ‘flight safe‘ mode.

2 Connect

Launch or refresh the browser to connect to the Aer Lingus portal. You can browse aerlingus.com for free along with some of our partners’ sites.

2 Aeromobile

Wait for the AeroMobile network signal to appear. If your device does not connect automatically, manually select the AeroMobile network through network settings.

Click the ‘Buy Internet Access’ button and choose a tariff that offers either one hour of browsing or a full flight pass.

3 Welcome SMS

4 Payment

3 Purchase Internet Access

Once connected you will receive a welcome SMS from AeroMobile. You may also receive a pricing message from your mobile operator. International roaming rates apply.

Select your payment method which is processed via a secure connection. Credit card, roaming, iPass, PayPal or Deutsche Telekom accounts are accepted.

5 Username and Password

4 Connected

Enter a username and password. You need to remember these if you wish to change device.

You can now use your phone for SMS, MMS, email and browsing the internet. ** Voice calls are disabled and are not permitted during flight. Remember to manage your settings to avoid automatic data download and roaming charges.

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Security screening You will pass through security screening at this point. Your hand baggage will be checked to ensure it conforms to UK and EU regulations. Liquids in containers over 100ml are not allowed through security.

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6 Connected

You can now browse, email and surf the internet… enjoy!

W R NE WE ES LO R I C P

One hour pass €7.95 | $9.95 Full flight pass €14.95 | $18.95 *A330 aircraft only.


Our European and North American Route Network Aer Lingus fly direct to and from over 100 destinations across Ireland, the UK, Continental Europe, Canada and the US. Our vast network and partners will also connect you to dozens of other cities in North America. Visit aerlingus.com for more information.

Edmonton Saskatoon

Calgary

Regina Winnipeg

Vancouver

Thunder Bay

Victoria Seattle Duluth

Traverse

Minneapolis Eugene

Boise

Milwaukee Madison

Sioux Falls

Medford

Grand Rapids

Omaha

Fort Wayne Akron Canton Chicago

Des Moines

Denver

Reno

Kansas

Louisville

Wichita

San Francisco

Fresno Las Vegas Monterey San Luis Obispo Los Angeles Santa Barbara Palm Springs Burbank Santa Ana Long Beach San Diego

Springfield

San Jose

Oklahoma City

Washington (Dulles)

Phoenix Tucson

Houston

San Antonio

New York (JFK) Philadelphia Baltimore

Richmond Norfolk Raleigh–Durham

Columbia

New Orleans

Tallahassee Pensacola

Savannah

Jacksonville Gainesville

Orlando Tampa Fort Myers

Aer Lingus European and North American Network

Hyannis Nantucket Martha’s Vineyard

Charleston

El Paso Austin

Providence

Boston

Charlotte

Greenville Atlanta

Dallas (Fort Worth)

Honolulu Kahului

Greensboro

Knoxville

Memphis

Halifax

Portland ME

Washington (National)

Lexington

Little Rock

Albany

Hartford

Newark

Cincinnati

Nashville

Tulsa

Rochester

Pittsburgh

Moncton

Burlington Syracuse

Columbus Harrisburg

Dayton

Indianapolis

St Louis

Oakland

Buffalo

Detroit Cleveland

Cedar Rapids Salt Lake City

Toronto

Fredericton

Montreal

Ottawa

Portland OR

Sacramento

St. John’s

Quebec Fargo

West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale

Miami Key West

Aer Lingus Regional routes (Operated by Stobart Air) Aer Lingus Regional and mainline routes Aer Lingus partner destinations (Operated by Flybe) Aer Lingus partner destinations (American Airlines, Air Canada, Jetblue, United Airlines and WestJet)

With US Customs and Border Protection Pre-clearance at Dublin and Shannon airports, you will save time and avoid queues in the US. Arrive in the US before you depart Ireland.

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San Juan

We are the best choice for connecting Europe to North America. You can travel from Dublin direct to ten US destinations, or to Canada, and benefit from up to 100 onward connections with our partner airlines.

Aguadilla Ponce


Connect with ease from any of our European destinations to our Northern American network via Dublin or Shannon. Inverness Aberdeen Glasgow

Donegal

Newcastle

Belfast

Leeds Bradford Doncaster Manchester

Isle of Man

Knock

Dublin

Shannon Kerry

Edinburgh

Birmingham

Cork

Berlin

Warsaw

London (Heathrow) Bristol

Cardiff

London (Gatwick)

Dusseldorf

Southampton

Exeter

Newquay

Hamburg Amsterdam

Brussels Prague

Frankfurt Jersey

Paris

Stuttgart Vienna

Munich

Rennes

Budapest

Zurich

Nantes Geneva

(Malpensa)

Bordeaux

Toulouse

Santiago de Compostela

Bilbao

Venice

Milan

Lyon

Milan

(Linate)

Montpellier Perpignan

Nice

Verona Bologna Pula Pisa

Split

Marseille

Bourgas

Dubrovnik Rome

Barcelona

Porto

Naples

Madrid

Alicante Murcia Malaga Faro

Try our online route map Tenerife Gran Canaria

Lanzarote Fuerteventura

Corfu

Palma

Lisbon

You can view our destinations and book your ight directly from our route map. Perfect for viewing from your ipad, it is built using Google maps so no need to install any software, just browse and book!

Athens Catania

Izmir


Our Middle East, Australasia and South African Route Network You can now book ights from Dublin to destinations in the Middle East, Australia and South Africa via London Heathrow and Abu Dhabi. Visit aerlingus.com for more information.

Dublin

London Heathrow

Bahrain

Dubai

Abu Dhabi

Muscat

Kuala Lumpur Singapore

Johannesburg

Aer Lingus routes via London Heathrow (Operated by our codeshare partner British Airways)

Cape Town

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Aer Lingus routes via Abu Dhabi (Operated by our codeshare partner Etihad Airways)

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Perth Sydney

Melbourne


WELCOME TO YOUR WORLD-CLASS 4-STAR AIRLINE. In recognition of our consistent quality and excellent guest experience, Skytrax World Airline Awards has rated Aer Lingus 4-stars, making us the first and only Irish airline to receive such a prestigious rating. Smart flies 4-star. Smart flies Aer Lingus.

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MAGNIFICENT MALAHIDE CASTLE IS A STONE’S THROW AWAY

Malahide Castle is a magnificent medieval castle just 10 minutes from Dublin Airport. The castle is set on 250 acres of parkland with a story dating back to the 12th Century. Enjoy daily tours of the castle, visit the ornamental walled gardens and dine or shop at the Avoca CafĂŠ and Retail store. We look forward to your visit.

For reservations please contact +353 1 8169538 or book online at www.malahidecastleandgardens.ie

Experience a unique setting, timeless elegance and a warm welcome.

the difference...family run www.lakehotel.com s

info@lakehotel.com : Reservations +353 (0) 64 66 31035 The Lake Hotel : Lake Shore : Muckross Road : Killarney : Co. Kerry : Ireland hh


MARCO PIERRE WHITE STEAKHOUSE & GRILL DUBLIN

DUBLIN’S FINEST STEAKHOUSE OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK FOR LUNCH AND DINNER

Explore the 1916 Easter Rising & Modern Irish History General Post Office, O’Connell St. Lower, Dublin 1, Ireland

For more information visit www.gpowitnesshistory.ie or phone +353 (0)1 872 1916

LATE OPENING FRIDAY & SATURDAY 51 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Ph: 0035316771155 Open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner dawson@marcopierrewhite.ie

NOW OPEN IN DONNYBROOK

Supper club with live music every Friday night 1 Belmont Ave, D 4 Ph: 0035315510555 courtyard@marcopierrewhite.ie

www.marcopierrewhite.ie


A watercolour painting by Róisín O’Shea © 2012

J

ohnnie Fox’s Pub situated in the heart of the Dublin Mountains has it all, a living museum of Irish History andTradition where unique pieces from old farm implements to Historical antiquities adorn every wall, nook & cranny. Serving an award winning a la carte menu from 12.30 until late, with live musicians playing traditional Irish music 7 nights a week, our special kind of Irish welcome is not to be missed.

S

ituated only 40 minutes from Dublin City Centre and 10 minutes from Dundrum or Enniskerry Villages why not take our private shuttle bus which will collect you from an array of Dublin City or County Hotels operated by ExpressBus.ie (01 8221122) for €5 each way.

Hooley Nights

For a real treat one should experience the world famous show known as the Johnnie Fox’s HOOLEY night which includes the esteemed Johnnie Fox’s troop of Irish dancers, live traditional Irish music, a full 4 course evening meal and plenty of great craic….. at only €52.50 per person. • • • •

AWARDWINNING KITCHEN TRADITIONAL IRISH ENTERTAINMENT CORPORATE EVENTS PRIVATE PARTIES

Johnnie Fox’s Pub l Glencullen l Co. Dublin

l Ireland l Tel: (01) 295 5647 Email: info@jfp.ie

www.jfp.ie

www.facebook.com/Johnniefoxspub

SEAFOOD IS OUR SPECIALITY AWARDWINNING A LA CARTE MENU


Two Fine Irish American Pubs in Jersey City, New Jersey, USA PJ Ryans Tavern 292 Barrow St. Downtown 201-333-8752

PJ Ryans Squared 4 PATH Plaza in Journal Square 201-222-1600

28 TV’s to catch any sport

LIVE MUSIC • Th, Fr, Sat

Happy Hour Daily 4-7

pjryansjc.com


Fishbone grill & cocktail bar Dublin’s newest seafood destination (Only 5 km from city center & 20 minutes from the Airport) “A New Fish Lover’s Paradise On Dublin’s Northside”

“Almost The Fish Restaurant Of My Dreams”

LovinDublin

The Irish Times

324 Clontarf Road, Clontarf, Dublin 3 | www.fishbone.ie | +353 1 536 9066

AT THE HEART OF IRISH HISTORY FOR 800 YEARS OPEN DAILY FOR VISITORS Saint Patrick’s Close, Dublin 8, Ireland Phone 01 453 9472 Email info@stpatrickscathedral.ie WWW.STPATRICKSCATHEDRAL.IE


U.S. IMMIGRATION LAWYERS SINCE 1997

Excellent track record representing: • • • • •

Professionals Executives Investors Intra-company transferees Multi-national managers

• • • •

Family-based petitions Interns and trainees Artists Outstanding individuals in athletics, business, entertainment and science

For client testimonials visit: www.obrienandassociates.com @usvisaexpert

New York Office: T: 212-965-1148

Deirdre O’Brien, Esq.

Kilkenny Office: T: 056-7767994

MEMBER OF AMERICAN IMMIGRATION LAWYERS ASSOCIATION

EXPLORE LEARN DISCOVER

VIKING & MEDIEVAL DUBLIN VIKING DUBLIN

MEDIEVAL DUBLIN

HISTORY ST MICHAEL’S HUNTERS TOWER

St Michael’s Hill, Christ Church, Dublin 8 www.dublinia.ie


Jack Daniel’s® Ribs

lj taste the bold in every bite jl St. Stephen’s Green • Temple Bar Blanchardstown • Dundrum • Liffey Valley • Swords • Belfast

www.fridays.ie

The trademark Jack Daniel’s is used under licence to TGI Friday’s Inc. All rights reserved.


LUNCH

EARLY BIRD

DINNNER PRIVATE DINING ROOM

excusive hire

- heated winter garden -

IS

WHERE

IS

Laughter brightest food best

26 Fitzwilliam place, D2 Tel; 01 6694600 info@sueseystreet.ie www.sueseystreet.ie @sueseystreet | #SueseySt


with over 135 cafes around the world, there’s always something happening at the hard rock.

TEMPLE BAR • DUBLIN 2 TEL: 671 7777 • HARDROCK.COM


BOUTIQUE | SHOPPING

boutique

LUXURY SHOPPING AT DISCOUNTED PRICE S

GET TECH SAVVY

ALL THE GADGETS FOR FUSS-FREE TRAVEL

FEBRUARY – MAY 2017

SAVE UP TO

45% ON HIGH STREET PRICES

39

NE W PRODUCTS

BEAUTY BOUNTY

RESULTS IN MINU TES WITH THE INST ANT EFFECTS MIRA CLE TRIO

5 Travel Tech Trea ts There's nothing but stress-free travel ahead with these handy gadgets from Boutique.

00 Cover.indd 1

With the new Hair Effects Cordless Hair Styler you won’t need to be tethered to a power outlet. This mini styler packs a powerful punch and its battery can be recharged via USB or socket. Ultra light and portable, just toss it in your bag and you’ll be ready to go.

You’ll never be in red again with the slimline Bitmore Emergency Pocket Charger. This super light charger can boost your phone or MP3 with up to 20 hours of talk time or 30 hours of music, plus the handy split charging cable means you can charge both simultaneously.

Heading to the USA or Europe and realised you’ve forgotten an adaptor? Fear not, we’ve got the Skross World Adapter Classic that can connect any plug to a power source in over 150 countries. A seasonedtraveller necessity.

Take your music with you with the 2.2W Veho Bluetooth Wireless Speaker. Just connect to your phone via Bluetooth or else slot in a microSD card and play directly from the speaker. With five hours of playtime in one charge, travel will never be dull again.

Stay wired in while on-the-go with these Sony In-Ear Headphones. With powerful sound and inline mic controls, these headphones will slot easily into your pocket or bag, making them the perfect travel companion.

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TRIP OF A LIFETIME | WILD ATLANTIC WAY

WILD ATLANTIC WAVES

British big wave surfer and Red Bull athlete Andrew Cotton is smitten with Ireland’s swell.

spent lots of winters chasing big waves surfing in Hawaii – until I discovered Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way, where the waves are as good, if not better and bigger. In 2015, I teamed up with Red Bull and Jeep to swap North Pacific swell for the unique pleasure of riding waves down the Wild Atlantic Way. The path was so distinctive and, while it may not boast crystal clear, warm waters, I found it to be a surfer’s paradise, taking the enjoyment of surfing back to its roots.

I

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The Wild Atlantic Way is rife with tourism and hundreds of attractions, however, the real awe, for me, is way out to sea. The waves here are some of the most enjoyable to surf in the world and, with a backdrop of snow-topped mountains and sensational sea cliffs, they are definitely among the most picturesque, especially when the sun is shining. It also gave me the opportunity to visit spots such as Slieve League in Co Donegal, where there’s some of the highest sea cliffs in Europe, and the Dingle Peninsula for the first time, as well as revisiting old

Top, Andrew Cotton sits above the seaside surf town of Lahinch, and above, Cotton surfing along the Wild Atlantic Way.

Do you have a Trip of a Lifetime story about an Aer Lingus destination? Please send it to tripofalifetime@ image.ie at not more than 500 words with a portrait shot of yourself. The editor’s decision is final.

favourites such as Bundoran in Co Donegal, Mullaghmore in Co Sligo and Lahinch in Co Clare, where I’ve surfed the giant Aileen’s Wave at the Cliffs of Moher. It was this love for the west coast of Ireland that grew my desire to discover more about what this incredible place has to offer, so much so that I spent a winter here chasing an elusive big wave off the Wild Atlantic Way, making the Beneath the Surface documentary. I usually travel to Ireland for the waves but the locals add uniqueness to any trip here, which keeps me coming back. Having such passion and pride for their area, they want to share both their knowledge and coastline with you. My perfect day on the Wild Atlantic Way would be surfing really big waves in Mullaghmore, then warming up in the Pier Head Hotel and having a pint in Brennan’s in Bundoran. Its 2,500 kilometres of frothy coastline now attracts surfers of all levels from all around the world and the opportunities to catch a wave are limitless. As the Irish big wave surfer, Ollie O’Flaherty, says: “You can find anything in Ireland, you just have to discover it.” Beneath the Surface is available to watch on Red Bull TV. For further information on the Wild Atlantic Way, visit wildatlanticway.com.


Cara February/March 2017  

Aer Lingus In Flight Magazine

Cara February/March 2017  

Aer Lingus In Flight Magazine

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