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April/May 2018


Welcome to Ireland from AIB Corporate Banking

Mick Murray Head of AIB International Corporate Banking mick.j.murray@aib.ie or +353 (1) 641 4248

Simon Scroope Head of AIB Corporate Banking simon.p.scroope@aib.ie or +353 (1) 641 4219

AIB International Corporate Banking can help you build a powerful presence in Ireland. To see how our dedicated team can work with you, contact Simon or Mick.

Allied Irish Banks, p.l.c. is regulated by the Central Bank of Ireland.



4 WELCOME Aer Lingus news 8 ARRIVALS Were you at Dublin’s T2?

11 CHECK IN Springtime highlights, from art and plays to sport and walks 28 SHELF LIFE Bridget Hourican’s literary lowdown, including events 30 MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK With Connacht Rugby’s most capped player, John Muldoon 32 5 GOOD REASONS Lucy White takes her pick of Prague 34 WEEKENDER Jennifer McShane luxuriates in London’s Covent Garden


The Wild Wex

36 AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO MADRID Jewellery designer Beatriz Palacios Jiménez reveals her Spanish city gems


40 MADE IN MANHATTAN Gemma Tipton in conversation with the Irish art star Brian O’Doherty 46 WEST SIDE STORIES Conor Creighton meets the Irish expats making waves in LA 54 WEX APPEAL The scenery and heritage around Wexford’s Hook peninsula are a magnet for Yvonne Gordon 64 STATE OF INDEPENDENCE Lucy White discovers a Sunshine State micronation – the Florida Keys 80 FAST FLAVOURS Eoin Higgins’ best plate-licking, bowl-slurping Asian eats in New York 90 SEA CITY Photographer Brooke Fitts wakes up and smells Seattle, Aer Lingus’ newest US route


The Asian Persuasion

46 Hot Angeles


75 YOU SAY, WE SAY In honour of Unesco’s World Book Day, Fionn Davenport browses bookshops

99 5 BEST SPA TOWNS Yvonne Gordon takes to the waters 106 48 HOURS IN VENICE Take a punt on The Floating City, swoons Lauren Heskin 123 AER LINGUS INFLIGHT On-board info and entertainment 152 TRIP OF A LIFETIME Leif Pettersen attempts the Wild Atlantic Way Cycle Sportif

64 Florida Finery


110 BUSINESS & LIFE Philadelphia has much more to offer than just cheesesteak, says Thomas Breathnach 116 A DAY IN THE LIFE A glimpse into the world of Node CEO Anil Kera 118 SOUND AS A DOLLAR Yvonne Gordon’s new hotels scoop on Seattle, Dublin, Palma and Silicon Valley

120 SIX THINGS I’VE LEARNT Grafton Architects’ Yvonne Farrelly and Shelley McNamara’s career insights

INTERNATIONAL BRANDS Acne Studios Alaïa Alice + Olivia Balenciaga Burberry Canada Goose Canali Céline Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Louboutin Claudie Pierlot Dolce & Gabbana Erdem Ermenegildo Zegna Fendi Givenchy Gucci Hermès Isabel Marant J Brand Jimmy Choo Louis Vuitton lululemon Maje Moncler Paige Paul Smith Prada Saint Laurent Paris Sandro Self-portait The Kooples Theory Tom Ford Valentino Victoria Beckham Zadig & Voltaire DISTINCTIVE IRISH BRANDS Cloon Keen Atelier Foxford Woollen Mills Lainey Keogh Louise Kennedy Lucy Nagle Rathbornes Waterford Crystal A WORLD OF OF BEAUTY Aveda Bobbi Brown Chanel Charlotte Tilbury Dior Frédéric Malle Giorgio Armani Huda Beauty Jo Malone London Kilian La Mer La Prairie Laura Mercier MAC Memo Paris Nars Sisley Yves Saint Laurent



CARA Magazine April/May 2018

WELCOME ABOARD This April, Aer Lingus celebrates 60 years of transatlantic services – and also looks forward to a brand new uniform. elcome aboard, and thank you for choosing to fly with us today. On April 28, 1958, Aer Lingus – or, rather, Aerlínte Éireann as it was known – launched its first commercial transatlantic flight from Dublin to New York, setting in motion an ever-expanding service connecting Europe with North America. During this time we have helped reunite families, businesses and open up tourist industries on both sides of the Atlantic – hence Cara’s “Transatlantic Issue” celebrating our enduring relationship. Our 2018 summer schedule commenced on March 25 – the same date as our inaugural Philadelphia service – and marks our largest ever long-haul programme, with 177,000 additional seats: our total capacity to and from North America this year will reach 2.8 million seats. Hot on the wings of Philly is Seattle, whose flights commence on May 18 and join Los Angeles and San Francisco in Aer Lingus’ West Coast portfolio. We also remain focused on our European network, sending guests to the sun this summer: 945,000 seats to Spain, 310,000 seats to the Canary Islands and 495,000 seats to Portugal. Málaga continues to be one of the most popular


choices for Irish sun-seekers and this route will enjoy 11,000 additional seats from Dublin in summer 2018. Additional key short-haul growth routes include Bordeaux (19,000 extra seats), Lyon (22,000 extra seats), Lisbon (11,000 extra seats), Rome (12,000 extra seats), Prague (18,000 extra seats) and Vienna (21,000 extra seats), among others. As well as announcing more getaway opportunities than ever, we are also delighted to welcome back Irish designer Louise Kennedy, below, to redesign our new crew uniform. Louise debuted her first teal green ensemble for Aer Lingus in 1998, which has become as iconic to our branding as our shamrock. Instantly recognisable, it is the longest-running Aer Lingus uniform – and quite the departure from the airline’s first ever apparel in 1945, a brown, militarystyle costume designed by Sybil Connolly. In the interim, other leading Irelandbased fashion designers include Irene Gilbert, Neillí Mulcahy, Digby Morton, lb Jorgensen and Paul Costello, all of whom added their own flair to our rich history of design. We are delighted to have Louise back and look forward to unveiling her new creation in early 2019. Have a wonderful flight and enjoy your spring getwaway with Aer Lingus. Follow us on Twitter @AerLingus

SIX APPEAL Six decades after Aer Lingus’ first transatlantic flight from Dublin, we’ve added 177,000 additional seats to North America this summer.

PHILADELPHIA, HERE WE CAME! March 25 saw the inaugural flight from Dublin to Philly, connecting Ireland with the Pennsylvanian metropolis. Cheesesteaks here we come …

GO WEST From May 18, Aer Lingus will fly direct to Seattle, Washington, on America’s north-west coast. Turn to page 90 for some of the hip city’s many highlights. 4 |


(Ire)land in style. With Platinum Services.

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EDITORIAL Editor Lucy White Deputy Editor Eoin Higgins Acting Deputy Editor Yvonne Gordon Assistant Editor Melanie Mullan Sub-editor Sheila Wayman Contributors Graham Corcoran, Conor Creighton, Fionn Davenport, Piotr Dybowski, Brooke Fitts, Rich Gilligan, Lauren Heskin, Bridget Hourican, Fuchsia MacAree, Fiona McCarthy, Jennifer McShane, Nathalie Marquez Courtney, Tara O’Brien, Beatriz Palacios Jiménez, Leif Pettersen, David Sciora, Gemma Tipton

CONTRIBUTORS Dublin based STEVE McCARTHY is this month’s cover illustrator. His work can be seen in the backgrounds of the 2014 Oscar-nominated film Song of the Sea and in the pages of A Sailor Went to Sea, a collaboration with children’s writer Sarah Webb, which won the Bord Gáis Energy Children’s Book of the Year 2018. His latest project The Good Times is a celebration of all things newsy, Steve having gathered together some of his most talented illustrator pals to meet once a week in the wee hours to illustrate the days’ news. See their collective results at instagram. com/GoodTimesNewsteam.

ART Art Director Niamh Richardson Creative Director Bill O’Sullivan ADVERTISING Advertising Manager Corinné Vaughan, +353 (0)1 271 9622; corinne.vaughan@image.ie Advertising Copy Contact Derek Skehan +353 (0)1 855 3855; dereks@typeform.ie ADMINISTRATION Financial Controller Brett Walker Accounts Manager Lisa Dickenson Credit Controller Angela Bennett

Photographer MATHEW SCOTT was born and raised in Portland, Oregon and after a bit of moving around, he settled in San Francisco where he later got his BFA in photography from the Academy of Art. Mathew now splits his time between Los Angeles and San Francisco, working on a variety of personal and commercial projects. Some of his recent clients include The New York Times, Nylon and Variety – and now Cara, with his outstanding portraits of Irish movers and shakers in Los Angeles from page 46.

Chief Executive Officer Clodagh Edwards Group Editor-in-Chief Lizzie Gore-Grimes Contributing Editor Melanie Morris Editor at Large Laura George Editorial Consultant Ann Reihill BOARD OF DIRECTORS Chairman Robert Power Directors Patrick Dillon Malone, Melanie Morris, Laura George, Sam Power, Raymond Reihill, Gina Traynor


CEDAR COMMUNICATIONS LTD CEO Clare Broadbent MD Christina da Silva Commercial Director Justine Daly Creative Director Stuart Purcell Editorial Director Maureen Rice Finance Director Jane Moffett Strategy & Business Director Ann Hartland

THOMAS BREATHNACH is an awardwinning travel writer who shares a desk between Eastern Pennsylvania and his native East Cork. Having begun his writing career with Men’s Health, South Africa, he has since contributed to The Boston Globe, Men’s Journal and the Irish Independent. Happiest when behind the wheel on a cross-country road-trip, his travel highlights include encountering a grey wolf in the wilds of Finland and moose-spotting in Vermont. His first feature for Cara magazine focuses on one of his favourite US cities, Philadelphia. See page 110.


Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Cedar Communications Limited and Image Publications.

+44 20 7550 8000 www.cedarcom.co.uk 85 Strand, London WC2R 0DW, UK


PUBLISHING COMPANY OF THE YEAR 2013 AND 2014 DIGITAL PRODUCT OF THE YEAR 2016 Image Publications, Unit 3, Block 3, Harbour Square, Crofton Road, Dún Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland, +353 (0)1 280 8415; image.ie Company registration number 56663 © Image Publications Ltd and Cedar Communications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of Aer Lingus, Cedar Communications or Image Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus, Cedar Communications or Image Publications Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from Image Publications Ltd.

Cara magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland. IMAGE Publications Ltd is a member of the Press Council of Ireland and supports the Office of the Press Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit pressombudsman.ie or presscouncil.ie

April/May 2018



The Transatlantic – an exclusive illustration for Cara by Steve McCarthy.

Welcome to our new issue! We are to all yours. Feel free e away take this magazin rney. for your onward jou ur yo e lov o als uld We wo l feedback and trave photos via Twitter . @CARAMagazine

WHO? Meaghan LaGrandeur FLYING IN FROM ... Ottawa via London MEAGHAN SAYS ... “I live here but I’m from Ottawa and was visiting my family for a month. I work as a musician and you’ll usually find me busking on Grafton Street.”

WHO? Mike Webster, Alan Gormley and David Gregg FLYING TO ... London MIKE SAYS ... “We’re on our way to London for work and we’ll be back in Dublin by this time tomorrow so it’s a flying visit.”


Rugby matches, work and play kept Dublin’s T2 busy when we were there to welcome newcomers.

WHO? Mallory Benkert and Christian Merrill FLYING IN FROM ... Paris CHRISTIAN SAYS ... “We’re from Connecticut and spent a few days in Paris and have a few days here before heading home.”

WHO? Esmée Beurze FLYING IN FROM ... Brussels ESMÉE SAYS ... “I’m here for a few days with my dad. We’re planning on staying in Dublin but will take a day trip if the weather stays nice.”

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WHO? John Murphy and Ann Bourke FLYING IN FROM ... Paris ANN SAYS ... “We were in Paris for a rugby match. My sister lives there so it’s always great to have an excuse to visit her.”


WHO? Arija Kaiser FLYING IN FROM ... Amsterdam ARIJA SAYS ... “I’m from Denmark and here for a couple of days with work, but will hopefully get some downtime.”

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Cribs and Castles

The pages of Tessa Williams’ beautiful coffee-table book, Hotels of the Stars (Roads Publishing, £35) – with a preface by Richard E Grant – have us drooling over the haunts and hideaways of the A-listers and dreaming of our own summer sojourns. High on our list is Switzerland’s Gstaad Palace, pictured, following in the footsteps of Liz Taylor and Louis Armstrong – although it’s tricky to choose this over seaside retreats in Positano, Italy and stylish New York lodgings. Swoon. roads.co


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25hours Hotel Bikini, Berlin Play “count the exotic animals” while swinging from one of the many hammocks, dining in the rooftop restaurant or ensconced in a window seat at this quirky, millenniallyminded hotel overlooking Berlin Zoo. Interiors are as plant-festooned as they are eclectic – guest rooms come in two themes, “Urban” and “Jungle” – and there’s an inhouse bakery, plus bikes to borrow. Rooms from €170. 25hours-hotels.com

Almanac, Barcelona The first in a new chain of boutique boltholes, Almanac Barcelona made a grand entrance to the city’s luxury hotel scene when it opened its doors in late 2017. From contemporary design and swirling staircases to rooftop bars and treatment rooms, it guarantees a memorable experience from start to finish – the hotel even has a signature scent created for it by master perfumer Jimmy Boyd. Rooms from €400. almanachotels.com

The Marylebone, London Bright colours, delicious food and a trendy neighbourhood are all part of the charm of The Marylebone. Vibrant soft furnishings sourced from local designers showcase the best of British across its 244 bedrooms and its 108 Brasserie spills out on to the street, making for ample people-watching opportunities during the summer months. Amazing rooftop terrace suites too. Rooms from £168. doylecollection.com

DO & CO Hotel, Vienna Designed as a futuristic shopping mall by Hans Hollein in the 1980s, the Haas Haus building’s curved windows overlooking St Stephen’s Gothic cathedral work equally well in the swish Onyx Bar on the sixth floor. This 43-room five-star has an enviable central location for those seeking in-the-thick-of-it sightseeing, while its high-spec – and high-tech – interiors marry teak, stone, marble and glass. Rooms from €266. designhotels.com



Spring welcomes Irish National Opera’s new programme starting with The Marriage of Figaro (April 13 at Wexford’s National Opera House; April 17-18, 20-21, Dublin’s Gaiety; irishnationalopera.ie). Mezzo-soprano Tara Erraught plays the wilful Susanna in a 250-year-old yarn that pits servants against their masters. New beginnings are also signalled at the Blackwater Valley Opera Festival, right – formerly Lismore Opera Festival – in Co Waterford, which sees recitals, talks and Rossini’s jovial L’Italiana in Algeri presented at Lismore Castle (May 29 to June 3; blackwatervalleyoperafestival.com).

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FAST AND FUREY Following the release of his latest album Don’t Stop This Now, Irish folk legend – not forgetting actor, composer and uilleann pipe extraordinaire – Finbar Furey will, on April 2, kickstart the UK leg of his tour (in Liverpool’s St George’s Hall), which book-ends a flurry of dates on home turf, including Cork, Dublin, Galway and Killarney, and keeps him on the road until July 7. Known for songs that speak of his native Ireland, these live dates are sure to soothe the Irish diaspora in Britain. finbarfurey.com

BON VOYAGE The starting point for the 38th instalment of EVA International Ireland’scontemporary art biennial – was Seán Keating’s 1927 painting Night’s Candles are Burnt Out, depicting the construction of Ardnacrusha, a hydroelectric dam on the border of Co Limerick. But there’s nothing antiquated about this year’s programme, which features multimedia works by 56 artists from 27 countries in venues across Limerick from April 14 until July 18. eva.ie


Flower Power One of Ireland’s biggest exports, designer Orla Kiely is the sole focus of a retrospective at London’s Fashion and Textiles Museum from May 25 to September 23. A Life in Pattern collates more than 150 patterns and products, including multimedia collaborations with photographers, filmmakers and architects as well as many renditions of her trademark “Stem” pattern. ftmlondon.org



Art and fashion have always been bedfellows and no more so than at Dublin’s Brown Thomas, where an Art & Style exhibition pairs talent from both disciplines for a week-long exhibition on level two and in the shop’s window until April 26. brownthomas.com






Surfing fans gather in Ireland’s northwest for an action-packed weekend of surf films, photography, workshops and talks from surfing’s top names at the Shore Shots Irish Surf Festival 2018, which takes place at the Model Arts Centre in Sligo from April 20-22. Expect good food, live music, a pub trail, film competition, inspiring photography such as Ian Mitchinson’s photo of champion Irish surfer Easkey Britton, left – and, of course, early-morning surf trips to chase some of the northwest’s best waves. shoreshots.ie


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Photographer Steve Ryan is a man of many talents. Originally from Kilkenny, he has based himself in East London where he not only works as a food photographer and regularly contributes to Cara, he also co-owns 40FT Brewery, publishes Root + Bone magazine and shoots regularly with Jamie Oliver. His most recent venture sees him and three pals produce and present an online travel series, Gentlemen of the World (gentlemenoftheworld.com). How did you get into food photography? Finding what interests you is the first step but that isn’t always straightforward. I discovered a love for food photography five years into my career and it was a game-changer. I had zero interest in it when I was studying and originally wanted to get into music photography. What was the genesis of Root + Bone? When I decided to focus on food photography, I began working with the staple food magazines and quickly discovered that I didn’t care to read them. Furthermore, the chefs I was photographing didn’t either. I’d worked on a couple of cookbooks for Movember, one of which was called Cook Like a Man, and I teamed up with its art directors/ designers to start Root + Bone. How did your work for Jamie Oliver come about? I was introduced to Jamie through my client, Channel 4. This is my fifth year working with him and his team and I love it. There’s always a great atmosphere and I eat incredibly well, so much so that I’ve taken to carrying a spoon with me to work. I tried a fork at first, but it’s a less forgiving guest in the jeans pocket. What inspired 40FT Brewery? London is one big house-share and in 2013 I was living with some brilliant people in Hackney, including Swedish brothers Andreas and Fredrik Pettersson.

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We started brewing every Wednesday in our kitchen whilst making pasta carbonara and watching Seinfeld. An opportunity presented itself in a disused car park behind our photography studio in Dalston. We had made friends with the head brewer of our local brewery and invited him to join our team. We opened 40FT Brewery in two repurposed 20-foot shipping containers and sold our first beer in 2015. Our team has since grown to seven people and we sell our beer throughout London. Gentlemen of the World sees you take on ten-day trips to different locations. Most memorable moment so far? We are four friends who are usually behind the camera and so the concept was to make a travel show that isn’t scripted or overproduced and where we turn the cameras on ourselves for a change, exploring a country with mostly spontaneity as our guide. Our pilot episode was filmed in Scotland where we were very much over-willing and underprepared. Most of my memories involve having wet socks but one of my favourite moments was being left on a small island by a local scallop diver with a net filled with 100 freshly caught scallops. We cooked them over a fire we built on the beach whilst drinking whiskey.

Where do you find the time? With difficulty. However, all my projects are collaborative. There are two other founders of Root + Bone, three others in 40FT and another three in Gentlemen of the World and I have an agent who manages my calendar and bookings for photography. I also have an incredibly supportive and understanding wife. If “the Gentlemen” came to Ireland where would they go? I would love to do an episode in Ireland. We would camp in the Burren, cycle across the Aran Islands, fish for salmon on the Blackwater and drink pints of stout at every opportunity. Favourite places to go for a pint when in Ireland? Cleeres of Kilkenny, Curran’s of Dingle, Grogan’s and Anseo in Dublin. I could keep listing them but we don’t have the word count. What were the big adjustments from life in Ireland to life in London? Dublin is my favourite city in the world and, like many cities, most of the action happens in the centre. London on the

other hand is made up of many boroughs, each with a personality of its own. It took me a while to get my head around this but I rarely go into the West End now and instead have managed to recreate my Dublin community style of living in my borough of Hackney. It’s roughly the same size as Dublin’s city centre; I can walk everywhere and I’m still late for meetings because of stop-and-chats. So it’s almost like being back on D2’s Camden Street, except there are more fried chicken shops. London grub hotspots? St John is British food at its best and is famous for nose-to-tail eating. Continuing the meat theme is Smokestak in Shoreditch, which is exactly what you think it is but better. Gunpowder is another favourite. It’s possibly one of the smallest restaurants in London but it packs a punch with each dish focused on championing a specific spice from India. Any other projects for 2018? I recently got married. This is a lifelong adventure that is more important than all the rest.


Turf Wars

Premiered at Dublin’s Abbey Theatre in 2016 as part of the Easter Rising centenary programme, The Plough and the Stars replays at the Gaiety this April 24 to May 5 (abbeytheatre.ie). Sean Holmes’ reimagining of Seán O’Casey’s tenement tragedy as a contemporary tower-block drama has fourthwall-busting songs and direct addresses to the audience. Another seminal Irish play, Brian Friel’s Translations, previews at London’s National Theatre from May 22 and runs until July 7 (nationaltheatre.org.uk). Colin Morgan (Merlin, The Fall), left, stars as the prodigal son to Ciarán Hinds’ dad, who returns from England to rural Donegal with two British army officers in tow.




Inspired by the semiotics bigwig Roland Barthes, Colm Mac Athlaoich’s latest exhibition of paintings, Elsewhere, to be Found, recalls matadors, masterpieces and fleeting moments, with glimpses of bare canvas evoking incomplete memories. From April 27 until May 6 at Farmleigh’s Cowshed Gallery in Dublin. macathlaoich.com FILM


Those with a thirst for adventure should set off for The Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour, which screens inspirational adventure films in venues around Ireland – with stories of today’s explorers and their extreme journeys to some of the planet’s most remote but spectacular corners. These include Into Twin Galaxies – Ben Stookesberry, Sarah McNair-Landry and Erik Boomer’s 1,000-kilometre journey by kite ski and white-water kayak across the Greenland Ice Cap, right. Screenings take place in Dublin, Kilkenny, Cork, Galway and Belfast in May. banff-uk.com

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Choreographer Akram Khan’s contemporary portrayal of the romantic ballet Giselle will mesmerise audiences when it arrives to launch Dublin’s Dance Festival running from May 2-20 (dublindancefestival.ie). The hauntingly beautiful performance by the English National Ballet – accompanied by the RTÉ Symphony Orchestra – will run from May 2-6 at the Bord Gáis Energy Theatre (bordgaisenergytheatre.ie), while other venues across the city will welcome a range of shows, including Flamenco dancer Patricia Guerrero at the Abbey Theatre.

Pictured L-R: David O’Mahony, Partner, Banking; Maria Kennedy, Partner, Commercial Litigation and Dispute Resolution; Barry McGettrick, Partner, Tax; Michael Jackson, Managing Partner; Kate McKenna, Partner, EU and Competition; Michael Hastings, Partner, Banking; Russell Rochford, Partner, Employment, Pensions and Benefits; and Donal O’Byrne, Partner, Asset Management.

New Partner Appointments Matheson is delighted to announce the appointment of seven new partners at the firm, right across our practice in the areas of Finance and Capital Markets, Corporate, EU and Competition, Asset Management, Investment Funds, Employment, Pensions and Benefits, Real Estate Financing, Litigation and Dispute Resolution. Our new partner appointments reflect the strength and continued growth of our business and, with five global offices, 84 partners and tax principals, and over 650 legal and business support professionals, Matheson provides the full range of legal advice and services our clients need, when they need it. Matheson. The Irish law firm of choice for internationally focused companies and financial institutions doing business in and from Ireland. For further information about our legal services, contact our Managing Partner Michael Jackson at michael.jackson@matheson.com, or your usual contact at Matheson.



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Ireland M&A Legal Adviser of the Year Mergermarket European M&A Awards 2017 Ranked Ireland’s Most Innovative Law Firm Financial Times Innovative Lawyers Report 2017 International Firm in the Americas International Tax Review 2017 Number One Ranked Irish Funds Law Practice acting for 29% of Irish Domiciled Investment Funds by AUM Monterey Insight Ireland Fund Survey 2017 European Financial Services Tax Deal of the Year International Tax Review 2017 Client Choice Award Winners for Corporate; Banking; and IT and Internet Law in Ireland International Law Office 2017



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Alain Passard [far left] is one of France’s iconic chefs and has held three Michelin stars since 1996. Dining in Arpège is an experience like no other. He uses impeccable ingredients from his own gardens and puts them together with his flawless technical skill. A truly unforgettable and inspiring meal. alain-passard.com





The former Michelin-adorned chef of London’s L’Autre Pied and Pied à Terre, Andy McFadden has returned to Dublin, where, at Glovers Alley, he presides over one of the city’s most exciting kitchens – and a beautiful Art Deco-inspired dining room. Ingredients are sourced from Irish farmers and producers and given a refined dollop of joie de vivre. Here are his global gourmand favourites. gloversalley.ie

Etxebarri is located in the foothills of Mount Anboto, near a village called Axpe in the Basque Country. Chef and owner Victor Arguinzoniz designed adjustable grills that raise and lower ingredients over open flames and creates his own charcoal from woods including apple, olive and oak, to impart the flavours that he wants to the ingredients being cooked – absolutely incredible. asadoretxebarri.com




The only place to go for drinks in NYC. This informal, groundfloor pub is a take on the great Irish tradition – no nonsense, no airs, no graces. It is true to itself and it’s just your honest, everyday extraordinary bar. Also, it’s worth noting that it has the best Guinness in New York by a country mile! deadrabbitnyc.com

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Ceviche is probably not the most likely start to a brunch but Coya does a mouthwatering, four-course menu that combines refined modern recipes with traditional street food – think punchy flavours with unlimited champagne, pisco sours and zingy pisco Marys (to cure any hangover). Really elegant decor, great service and a live DJ – it’s a brunch experience. coyarestaurant.com


AUTHENTIC IRISH HOSPITALITY Heavily inspired and influenced by Dublin’s rich literary culture and local heritage, Conrad Dublin features 192 beautifully refurbished guest rooms and suites. The recent multi-million euro renovation of the hotel took its inspiration from the charm and hospitality of this iconic city. The award-winning Conrad Dublin is located in the heart of the city, overlooking the majestic National Concert Hall.

Earlsfort Terrace, Dublin 2, Ireland | Phone +353-1-602 8900 | ConradDublin.com




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LITERATURE & LARDER Cooking/food writing dream team Imen McDonnell and Cliodhna Prendergast host food, styling and photography retreats and from April 13-16 they’ve James Beard Award-winning authors Diana Henry and Elissa Altman at Co Limerick’s Glin Castle. The getaway will focus on the art of food writing and food as memoir. €2,499 each. lensandlarder.com

GRUB’S UP Melanie Mullan feasts her eyes on the latest food and drinks news.



Chef and restaurateur Temple Gardner has gone from serving the #brunchofchampions at Dublin’s San Lorenzo’s to fine dining en français with wingman Conor Kavanagh. Located in Monkstown, south Dublin and named after the photojournalist Henri Cartier-Bresson, Bresson presents classic French cooking, with dishes including rabbit fricassée and côte de veau served in a suitably chic dining room. bresson.ie

SIMPLE FOOD FOR FAST TIMES In a series of day-long workshops at Dublin’s Arran Street East pottery studio, author and food stylist Aoife McElwain will share her insights into how good, simple food can help provide us with the energy needed in a fast-paced and demanding world. Upcoming sessions include April 29 and May 26 at a cost of €120 each. arranstreeteast.ie


Coffee brewers, roasters and caffeine hipsters will unite to celebrate the cherished roasted bean at the London Coffee Festival from April 12-15 (londoncoffeefestival.com). Taking place in The Old Truman Brewery on Brick Lane, there’ll be a plethora of events, from tastings and food stalls, to live entertainment and demos from world-class baristas. The event will also see the launch of UK Coffee Week (ukcoffeeweek.com), during which cafés and their patrons will come together to help raise funds and support the coffee-growing communities.

THE CALM KITCHEN If you can bear to part with your smartphone for a half-day – and if not, then you do really need this workshop – Joanna Bourke demonstrates how cooking can be a stress-relieving escape from the digital hubbub. Next up: April 8 at Dublin 8’s Fumbally Stables, where guests can enjoy brunch before trying out new recipes. €95. thechoppingboard.ie

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If Nigel Slater’s memoir Toast had your tastebuds twitching, then go see the stage adaption at The Lowry in Salford, UK – real food aromas will waft through the auditorium thanks to a series of live “communal eating interventions”. The interactive, smell-o-vision show debuts at Week 53, a multidisciplinary arts festival, from May 22 to June 2 and, with Slater’s business partner James Thompson working on the production as a food consultant, authentic and evocative whiffs (and tastes) are guaranteed. thelowry.com


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Yvonne Gordon navigates five amazing cliff walks along Ireland’s coastline.

For a cliff walk with some thrills, Slieve League (also known as Sliabh Liag) in southwest Co Donegal not only takes in some of Europe’s highest sea cliffs with a 601-metre sheer drop into the Atlantic Ocean, but has a section called One Man’s Pass, a narrow ridge just wide enough for one

person at a time. The less daring can still take in the magnificent vistas from the viewing point – look down to spot the two “giant’s table and chair” rock formations. sliabhliag.com


This gorgeous walk takes you along the lower part of the cliffs – the narrow path was created in 1902 by a visionary railway engineer

with a series of bridges, tunnels and staircases allowing visitors to have the full cliff experience, sometimes complete with a good dose of sea spray. You’ll see everything from seabirds and marine life to sea caves and unusual rock formations along the two-and-a-halfhour guided walk (book ahead) – with stories of smugglers and colourful local characters to

complete the experience. thegobbinscliffpath.com


Jutting out into the Atlantic Ocean on one of Ireland’s most south-westerly peninsulas, the Lighthouse Loop walk at the end of the Sheep’s Head Peninsula takes around two hours from the car park and passes the photogenic Sheep’s Head Lighthouse. The trek is wild and rugged in parts, but views to Mizen Head on one side and over to the neighbouring Beara Peninsula and Bantry Bay on the other make up for any rough ground. thesheepsheadway.ie


Take this looped, onehour walk around the Co Waterford headland to enjoy views of Ardmore Bay and see local heritage sights, all with the backdrop of wildflowers along the way. Ardmore is one of Ireland’s oldest Christian settlements – St Declan

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was said to live here between 350-450AD – and you’ll pass St Declan’s Well, long popular with locals for its curative properties. You’ll also pass a church ruin, the old coastguard station, a lookout tower and a shipwreck, before looping inland to the 30-metre round tower. ardmorewaterford.com


The walk to the Cliffs of Moher Visitor Centre from Doolin village takes around two hours and, as well as the views of the cliffs, Galway Bay and the Aran Islands, one of the highlights of the walk is taking in the habitats of the thousands of seabirds, especially in spring and early summer – from puffins and cormorants to gannets and razorbills. The other side of the walk is lined with farmland and, if you time it right, you might catch a spectacular sunset. doolin.ie








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Business cards? Check. Phone charger? Check. A singing robot named George? Em … Nathalie Marquez Courtney explores the digital delights of this year’s Dublin Tech Summit. all me a nerd, but I still get excited when I go to tech conferences. Sure, there’s the sore feet and endless business card swapping (followed by the liberal application of much antibacterial hand gel). The dance of avoiding the try-hard startups vying for your attention, handing out endless streams of branded stickers, temporary tattoos and T-shirts. And there are the hordes of seasoned conference regulars, armed with earnest elevator pitches, their gaze steely and their faces fighting that “whattime-zone-am-I-in?” expression. But there’s also such a sense of possibility and potential. That exciting ideas are being talked about right here, right now, that your next wonderful discovery or eye-opening conversation is just around the corner. The latter is what I found when I wandered the halls of the Convention Centre Dublin last year for the maiden Dublin Tech Summit. The event saw 10,000 attendees visit the capital’s silicon docks area over two days for a series of panels, demonstrations, exhibitions and talks. Refreshingly, there was a big focus on creating a gender-balanced event and,


as a female lover of tech, it was energising to see so many women both on and off the stage. That’s still a big focus of the 2018 outing (April 18-19; dublintechsummit.com). As well as making discounted tickets available to all women working within the tech industry, this year’s conference will see a host of powerful, inspiring women added to the speaker list. This includes former Bitcoin Foundation director Jinyoung Englund, president Obama’s director of media advance at the White House Johanna Maska, FinTech power player Duena Blomstrom and Gina London, an Emmy award-winning, former CNN correspondent turned communications expert. As well as exploring stalwart tech conference themes such as big data, cyber security and cloud computing, this year will also see an intriguing musical thread come to the fore, with a “Music x Tech Experience” that will explore how technologies as diverse as blockchain, artificial intelligence and augmented and virtual reality are disrupting and changing the musical landscape, as well as hands-on demos with some of the latest innovations and emerging cool tools.

I, robot – last year’s Dublin Tech Summit saw George, aka RoboThespian, schmoozing with delegates and guests, such as Gina London, above.

Of course, no tech event would be complete without a big-name, social media savvy star. In 2017, entrepreneur, internet personality and professional fasttalker Gary Vaynerchuk was the headliner who pulled in the crowds. He went off-script with an honest, raw keynote speech delivered to a 2,500-strong crowd and hung around afterwards as hordes of fans gathered for selfies (which was just a tad awkward for the speaker who took to the stage immediately after him). This year, they’re hoping to recreate some of that magic with globetrotting vlogger Casey Neistat, which is quite the coup. Neistat’s rapid-fire banter and fast-paced, wide-angle videos, on everything from surfing in shark-infested waters to snowboarding on the streets of New York City, have led to more than eight million subscribers. Like Vaynerchuk, fans are drawn to his authentic, real-talk manner and rags-to-riches success story (a high school drop-out, he sold his video-sharing app to CNN for a reported $25 million back in 2016, though it was recently shut down). Expect him, camera in hand and electronic skateboard in tow, to take to the stage for the keynote address.

GREAT MINDS On any given night in New York there are countless number of events you might dub “the hottest ticket in town” but, on May 9-11, the 99U Conference will certainly be one of them. Aimed at creative professionals,

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the speaker lineup includes top thinkers and makers from Adobe, Netflix and The Guardian, with inspiring, interactive breakout sessions on everything from handlettering to brand consultancy. conference.99u.com

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A second generation potter, Thomas Diem was born in NYC but raised in Ireland. Visit his Co Meath studio for glorious Nordicinspired hand-thrown stoneware that combines white gloss and jolts of matte colour. From €16 at diempottery.com.

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The self-professed “Denim Queen” Orla Langan cut her teeth with sports brands such as Puma, Fila and Sweaty Betty and now creates her own innovative womenswear with a Japanese edge. From €115 at fashionofireland.ie.









This acrylic, silver and 22-carat gold neckpiece by Eimear Conyard is on show at Kilkenny’s National Design and Craft Gallery until April 18 in an exhibition celebrating the work of contemporary Irish and Chinese jewellery artists. Start saving. €2,400 at ndcg.ie.


Never judge a book by its cover goes the adage but what about a bottle of liquor? Fortunately, the 1920s-influenced Thin Gin, distilled in Waterford, is as tasty as their branding is dapper – light and fresh for spring. €37 at anchorspirits.ie.


Hot on the bezels of Dubliner Ian Walton’s finely crafted NTN wrist watches is his splendidly streamline Capsule Clock, the body of which is made from off-cuts of Portuguese cork while the protective glass is German borosilicate. €160 at ntn.ie.


One to sniff while supping your Thin Gin: The Handmade Soap Company’s Jazz Age-ist new unisex, Art Deco collection of hand wash, lotion, cuticle oil and more. Made in Slane. From €11.95 at thehandmadesoap company.com.

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New season, new reads, new literary events – Bridget Hourican highlights only the best.


VICTOR HORTA: THE ARCHITECT OF ART NOUVEAU (Thames & Hudson, hbk) Author David Dernie and photographer Alastair Carew-Cox explore the work of the great Brussels Art Nouveau architect and give detailed descriptions of 19 Horta buildings, from Hotel Tassel, built in 1893, to Hospital Brugmann, 1923. Many of Victor Horta’s buildings are privately owned and difficult to visit but, if you’re in Brussels, you can take a tour of the buildings open to the public – including his private residence, now a museum, and the Waucquez department store, now the Belgian Comic Strip Centre. This beautiful book is an indispensable guide to his work – Carew-Cox is the first photographer to be allowed into the privately owned Hôtel Solvay in 20 years and Dernie’s essays trace Horta’s influences, his use of light, space and abstraction, and his juxtaposition of wood, glass, iron and mirror.

FICTION FROM A LOW AND QUIET SEA by Donal Ryan (Doubleday, pbk) Three men tell their stories: Farouk, a middle-aged doctor, leaves war-torn Syria with his wife and daughter for a life of exile; Lampy, his heart broken by his first love, kicks his heels in small-town Ireland; John looks back on a successful career and a nasty personal life. All they have in common is loneliness and, almost incidentally, one woman.



SHORT STORIES STINGING FLY STORIES edited by Sarah Gilmartin & Declan Meade (Stinging Fly, released April 24, pbk) In March 1998, The Stinging Fly was launched: a new magazine of five short stories and 20 poems over 28 pages, which went on to “discover” writers Kevin Barry, Claire Keegan, Colin Barrett and Danielle McLoughlin. To celebrate the first two decades, its editors select 40 stories by 40 of its top writers.

FICTION HEARTBROKEN by Pat McCabe (New Island, pbk) Ray Wabe hides in the rafters of Mervyn’s Mountain Bar, while below him six hoodlums play pool and cards, drink “jungle” juice, beat up Ray’s friend Jody, tell stories, pick fights, play country tunes on the jukebox and wait for the man, Begley, to come to finish Jody off. Very filmic – part Tarantino, part Scorsese, part Beckett – but all in Monaghan hillbilly. A cracker.

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G Force The 33rd Cúirt International Festival of Literature takes place in Galway City this April 23-29. The line-up of Irish and international writers includes novelists Bernard MacLaverty (Midwinter Break), above, and Daniel Woodrell (Winter’s Bone) and Forward Prize, Pulitzer and Queen’s Medal prize-winners, respectively, Sinéad Morrissey, Jorie Graham and Imtiaz Dharker. Also spoken word, poetry slams, music, theatre and visual art. cuirt.ie

The centenary of women being granted the vote in Ireland and the UK is being celebrated across every platform. Read Diane Atkinson’s Rise Up Women! (Bloomsbury), Helen Pankhurst’s Deeds not Words (Hodder & Stoughton) and Mary and Bryan Talbot and Kate Charlesworth’s graphic novel Sally Heathcote: Suffragette (Jonathan Cape). Listen to the two-part series on the Suffragettes and the Pankhursts on BBC4’s History Extra and Alex Clark’s FEMINISM features on Vintage Podcast. Visit The Little Museum of Dublin’s exhibition, A Woman’s Work (April-May) and, for London Book Week, go to Soho House on April 13 to hear Dr Helen Pankhurst followed by special screening of Sarah Gavron’s 2015 film Suffragette.

Immerse yourself in Ireland’s history and culture EPIC tells the unforgettable story of the 10 million Irish people who left their homeland over the centuries — and how they influenced and shaped the world. The interactive galleries make this family-friendly experience an essential destination for everyone with an interest in Ireland’s people, culture and history.

Open 7 days a week 10am–6:45 (last entry 5pm) CHQ, Custom House Quay, Dublin 1 BOOK NOW: epicchq.com

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Most exotic place you’ve visited? I went to Bali on holidays with my wife. The weather was incredible and it has the most unbelievable beaches. When we were there we also visited the Gili islands which were only a short hop away. It was lovely but it’s getting very busy now with tourists.


Three desert island companions? Jack Nicholson – I’d say he has some stories. Any celeb chef – to cook. My wife – because she’ll read this and kill me if I didn’t give her a mention.

MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK Best sports city you’ve visited? Edinburgh, for obvious reasons. Murrayfield is an unbelievable stadium and is a great place to play in front of a big crowd. And for travelling supporters it’s really easy to get to because it’s so close to the airport.

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Where else in Connacht should match-goers visit? Take a day trip to Connemara and have some seafood. You could wash it down in a few watering holes on your way back into the city and pop in for a Supermac’s before bed … Describe the PRO12 Final in 2016. It was a stand-out day for everyone in Connacht Rugby. The day itself had an amazing atmosphere, one that I will cherish for the rest of my life. The people of Connacht travelled in huge numbers and I will never forget that feeling when we arrived in the stadium and were surrounded by thousands of our fans.

Portumna native John Muldoon is the most capped player (300) for Connacht Rugby and will retire in May after a 15-year career that has seen him travel the world, playing for Ireland. The 35-year-old captained Connacht to their fairytale win in the Guinness PRO14 Final in 2016 and the men in green could still make it to this year’s decider in Dublin on May 26 (pro14rugby.org). Regardless of how Connacht’s season ends, Muldoon Most memorable country that rugby has will exit as a record setter and also taken you to? Chile. I went there with the the appearances leader of Irish under-19s. Culturally it was an eye opener, a Guinness PRO14. really interesting place. Our visit to Russia was also pretty memorable, during the season that we won the Guinness PRO12. It was the coldest I have ever been in Favourite hotel? I’m so my life and definitely the coldest conditions I have ever used to travelling to away played in. What made it so memorable was when our games that a lot of the flights were cancelled and the squad had to split up and places we end up staying get alternative routes home! Great memories, though. in seem the same. That’s probably because we First childhood travel generally go through the same routine before games. memory? I remember going to Personally, though, I recently Salthill as a youngster, which visited Adare Manor and was a big deal at the time. To us words cannot describe how Leisureland amusements were amazing it is. It’s nice to have such luxury on our doorstep. as big a deal as Disneyland.


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5 GOOD REASONS ... … to check out the Czech capital. Lucy White presents Prague’s springtime glories.

A CUT ABOVE Seventeen years old and yet devoid of teenage doldrums, Prague’s Fringe Festival returns to Malá Strana (selfdeprecatingly, “Lesser Town”) this May 25 until June 2. Visitors need not fret about their lack of native tongue since many theatre, comedy, cabaret and spokenword performances are delivered in English. Festival goers are encouraged to interact with the entertainers in the Malostranská Beseda – ex-city hall – of an evening, so leave your inhibitions on the plane and get stuck in. praguefringe.com

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to PRAGUE up to six times per week.

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MODERN CLASSIC There are few prettier places to get an earful of live classical music than at the Prague Spring – venues include churches, parks, museums and historic concert halls. This year’s 73rd outing from May 12 to June 3 celebrates the 100th

anniversary of the founding of Czechoslovakia and also the 100th anniversary of the birth of Leonard Bernstein, whose European debut took place at the first Prague Spring. Expect old and new compositions, plus genre-busting world and jazz crossovers. festival.cz CITY SAUNTERS Only April fools would forgo a stroll around one of the gardens in Malá Strana at this time of year. They reopen after the long, hard winter and become a welcome respite from the landmark-ticking selfie brigade that flock around the Charles Bridge and Astronomical Clock. The best include Vojanovy Sady, where peacocks shake their tailfeathers – ditto at the neatand-tidy Wallenstein (Senate) Gardens, where an owl aviary sits beside a sinister-looking, sculptural dripstone wall. Last but not least is the old Deer Moat below the majestic Prague Castle, once hunting grounds for the king. GO WITH THE FLOW Parisians may loaf around the Seine, fingering their Gauloises and working their je ne sais pas, but in Prague, locals line the Náplavka river bank during the summer months, where Czech beers are actually cheaper than bottles of water and purveyed by boat vendors. There’s even a brewpub boat and a cabaret boat. Despite the galvanising booze and shimmering waters, it’s all very civilised, convivial and there are clean public loos.


BARE FACTS A guided tour on the first day of any trip is ideal for sussing out the lie of the land and The Naked Tour Guide’s excursions are literally made for walking. Fortunately, no one is actually naked (or unfortunately, depending on your personal preferences) and it’s just the attentiongrabbing name of an excellent independent company, run by Irish guy Marcus Bradshaw, that “exposes” tourists to Prague’s hidden histories and contemporary foibles. Avoid at your peril. naked.guide

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loor-to-ceiling windows encircling a too-generous bed with crisp, plush white sheets in my room at St Martins Lane remind me that I’m far from home. The city looks busy and vibrant below but, above, I feel cocooned in luxury. “Everything starts with a blank canvas” are the first words I see on a writing pad, encouraging each guest to breathe, unwind and bask in their surroundings. Do not be fooled by the compact exterior of this boutique hotel; my Loft Double Room is ultraspacious with two double beds, ample wardrobe space and a deluxe bathroom boasting a large shower and bath that invites a languorous soak. Its standout, polished aluminium, teardrop-style lighting fixtures against the quirky leopard print carpet and LED colourchanging light cove make the space look ethereal and modern, yet feel cosy once the evening glow sets in. Down in the lobby, adorned with some wonderfully playful


decor (the life-size chess pieces are a personal favourite), we take a step back to begin our journey of tranquility. Starting in The Den, a modern gathering place, or “decompression zone” as it’s fondly called, we sip refreshing gin and tonics all made with tongue-incheek British flair. Even the art on the walls has a nod to moments of cultural significance – Anne Boleyn scowls at us from a portrait where her head and neck don’t quite align. You can also indulge in afternoon tea if you aren’t partial to a tonic. If, however, you do fancy a cocktail, you must visit Blind Spot at the hotel, a speakeasy that offers guests bespoke and signature cocktails bursting with flavours influenced by the British Empire and its ancient tea trade. You’ll find it at night, located in a hidden entrance, which only adds to the fun of the surroundings. We decide to explore the locality rather than dine indoors – though the hotel’s revered Asia de Cuba restaurant is packed to the gills, even when we return in the early


Amid a bustling district in London’s Covent Garden, Jennifer McShane finds the ultimate R&R experience at St Martins Lane.

At the oasis – a restful room above the streets of London at St Martins Lane. Rooms start from £250. morgans hotelgroup.com

WHAT TO PACK Little Fires Everywhere (Little Brown) by Celeste Ng, €18.20 at easons.com

Apple AirPods, €179 at apple.com

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Radley London Summer Street Backpack, €265 at eu.radley london.com Zara Striped Mid Heel Slingback Shoes, €39.95 at zara.com

Arket Ice Crepe Dress, €89 at arket. com

hours. Covent Garden comes alive at night and, though we could gladly lose hours discovering its nooks and crannies, dinner and a show are the orders of the evening. A stone’s-throw from our hotel, on St Martin’s Lane, Côte Brasserie (cote.co.uk) is a charming French eatery offering us a delicious pre-theatre menu (two courses, £12.95, three courses, £14.95) which, my companion says, has the best meat board he’s ever eaten as a starter. And should you fancy a post-West End tipple, the Covent Garden Cocktail Club (londoncocktailclub.co.uk) has the best daiquiri (served in a jam jar, no less), I’ve tried in a long time. Returning to Dublin surprisingly fresh-faced, my whistle-stop trip affirms what I’ve always known to be true about the city: there’s no place quite like London.

Tom Ford Vanille Fatale (50ml), €188 at brownthomas.com

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THE STALWART There are only a few traditional taverns left in Madrid and Bar La Alegría – a classic madrileña staple from the 1950s – is well worth a visit, either just to drink a caña (beer) or to sample the menú del día. Don’t miss tasting the Spanish omelette and the callos. Especially the callos! This place is expert in this typical dish. (Calle Veneras 7, +34 915 483 040)





Follow in the footsteps of ace jewellery designer Beatriz Palacios Jiménez.





MORE ABOUT BEATRIZ Beatriz Palacios Jiménez is a jewellery designer in the Spanish capital. After graduating as a mining engineer in Madrid, she moved to Dublin where she had her first real experience with the Irish fashion industry. A year later she moved back to Madrid where she is now based with her Irish husband. Her works of art retail at Dublin’s Atrium and at beatrizpalacios.com.

THE BAR A padded leather counter, velvet couches, leopard print lamps ... The atmosphere of José Alfredo cocktail bar is fantastic. There’s always a mix of people from different generations, the music is great and the cocktails are delicious. The perfect place to start the night with a gin fizz. (Calle de Silva 22, +34 915 214 960; josealfredobar.com)

THE NIGHTSPOT La Faena II is by far the most underground place in Madrid – it’s a garage that used to host a religious sect and has since been reconverted into a concert venue. Specialising in folk, rock and punk music, it offers a very well-curated selection of national and international bands for an entry price of €7 and beers for just €1.50 that you can pick up straight from a fridge at the entrance. There is only room for 30 people, so email ahead if you want to get a place. (Calle de Alfonso Gómez 35; email lafaenabolos@gmail.com)

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THE RETAIL THERAPY Right in the heart of the Chueca neighbourhood you will find Pez. Not only the space itself, but the selection of brands and furniture is just exquisite. A mix of modern and vintage where actresses, artists and models go shopping. And, the best bit – shameless plug – they stock my jewellery, pictured. (Calle de Regueros, 15, +34 913 106 677; pez-pez.es)

THE WILDCARD Capricho means “the treat” and the Parque de El Capricho is one of the most beautiful – and leastknown gardens – in Madrid. It is the only Romantic-style park in the city, with a maze, ponds, streams, a ballroom ... even a bunker from the Spanish Civil War. Well worth the approximately 45-minute metro journey from the city centre. (Paseo de la Alameda de Osuna, 25, +34 915 880 114)

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to MADRID daily.

titanic the Legend the Story

ExplorE thE sights, sounds and storiEs of rMs titanic at this world lEading visitor attraction in thE city whErE it all BEgan, BElfast, northErn irEland.

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n the banks of the legendary River Boyne—just 25 minutes from Dublin Airport—sits the brand new Slane Distillery, built into the 250-year-old former stables of Slane Castle.

The ancestral home of the Family Conyngham for more than 300 years, Slane Castle is a 1,500-acre estate that has hosted everyone from King George IV to renowned bands recording albums to more than one million music fans during the course of the Slane Concert series. But with a $35 million investment and all the expertise of whiskey pioneer Brown-Forman, the new distillery may be the best reason yet to make a visit.

Slane Castle

“I grew up running around the castle listening to resilient family stories from my dad and my grandfather when we still kept horses and pigs in these beautiful stables,” said co-founder Alex Conyngham. “To see Slane Distillery become part of that long narrative of reinvention makes me incredibly proud. It’s a very Irish story with a flavourful whiskey to match.”

The River Boyne




THE MYTHICAL BOYNE VALLEY Slane Distillery and Slane Castle aren’t the only reasons to visit the pristine countryside of the Boyne Valley. Ancient landmarks including Newgrange and Brú na Bóinne are older than Stonehenge and a must-see for those interested in archaeology and folklore. The Hill of Slane offers 360-degree views of the valley and is said to be where St. Patrick climbed the hill at Slane to light a fire in defiance of the high king Laiore. And for those interested in a more modern adventure, the River Boyne beckons with kayaking and rafting trips led by experienced guides.


Holloden House, Royal Oak, built 1755 Slane Distillery

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All that Boyne Valley nature and one-of-a-kind history are invigorating but may eventually make visitors thirsty for a different kind of tour. A visit to Slane Distillery takes visitors from barley to barrel-making through pot still distillation, production, and maturation rooms—all housed in the original stables designed by 18th century architect Capability Brown. There are also two unique tasting rooms on site: the Whiskey Lounge, which displays memorabilia from Slane Concerts, and Stalls Bar where the structure’s original horse stalls have been transformed into snugs—perfect for serving and sharing drams of triple-casked Slane Irish Whiskey.

To book a tour, visit slaneirishwhiskey.com or call 353 (0)46 903 0600

353 (0)46 903 0600


AND A WHISKEY FOR THE NEXT 300 YEARS Housed within the 250-year-old stables of the iconic Slane Castle estate, a tour of Slane Distillery takes visitors through our heritage room, barley room, cooperage, and maturation warehouse before a final stop that provides a view of our pot stills and production areas. The tour concludes in the best way possible with a taste of our signature triple casked blend, Slane Irish Whiskey.





MANHATTAN In his 90th year, the New York-based Irish artist Brian O’Doherty is showing no signs of slowing down. This year marks a revived project in Co Cork, a new exhibition at the Irish Museum of Modern Art and a suite of prints. WORDS GEMMA TIPTON PHOTOGRAPHS RICH GILLIGAN


hen Brian O’Doherty first left Ireland for the USA, over half a lifetime ago in 1956, he went by boat from Cobh. “It was a very profound experience. As I walked to that boat, I felt as if I was walking in the steps of hundreds of thousands,” he pauses, considering the Irish legacy of leaving. “But I made friendships on that boat that lasted for years.” The next time the Roscommon-born artist went to the States, he flew. “It took 17 hours. In those days of propeller planes, it took forever.” So much has changed in the intervening half-century. Faster transatlantic flights and frequent routes have turned what was once an epic quest into a hop, skip and jump. Communications have improved too, so that the distance between O’Doherty and I, as we speak – he in his New York studio and I in a house on the Cork coast, at the other edge of the Atlantic Ocean – feels compressed into nothing. “I stayed with a cousin,” he continues, his rich, deep voice grown gravelly – he’ll celebrate his 90th birthday this year. “Her husband was a bus driver on Fifth Avenue. The next time, I took a train up to Boston, for what future? I had no idea ...” In fact, O’Doherty, who is a world-famous artist,

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Booker-shortlisted novelist and influential writer on art, was on his way to take up a postgraduate scholarship at the School of Public Health at Harvard University. If a leap from studying medicine to a ground-breaking career as an artist seems strange, it’s commonplace for O’Doherty. He has an unbelievable mind, one which refuses to be pigeonholed and has resulted in him weaving his various fascinations into unforgettable works of art. He’s also a fiercely loyal and generous friend – although he’s quick to anger when he considers time is being wasted, having very high standards for those he does let into his life. I recall a visit to O’Doherty’s studio, a wonderful doubleheight room, crammed full of artworks and objects amassed over the years. There are examples of his signature pieces exploring patterns of language and code through the ancient Irish language of Ogham; there’s the famous photograph of O’Doherty, dressed in five different guises, maybe a mirror of what it might be like to be actually inside his mind. There’s an oddly-not-incongruous rubber unicorn headpiece and a table that once belonged to Gloria Swanson. The studio is part of an apartment, housed in a wonderful Gothic building dedicated to artists on Central Park West. O’Doherty has shared it with his wife, the leading art historian Barbara Novak, since 1969, after a stint


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Downtown: “We were living in a little hole in the Village, and then in an IM Pei [architect] apartment on East 30th. It’s always a great engine,” he says of New York. “You enter the engine and you’re just a little cog flying around hither and thither and yon. And there are these wonderful streets darkened by vast buildings, turned into canyons. But we’re lucky because we live by the Park.” One visitor to the studio was founder of Conceptual Art, Marcel Duchamp. O’Doherty made use of his qualification as a medical doctor to make Duchamp’s portrait. O’Doherty and his wife invited Duchamp for dinner (Novak recalls having discovered the recipes of

Julia Child, “I cooked veal, or was it chicken ... drowned in cream”). Afterwards, O’Doherty took Duchamp’s electrocardiogram, using equipment he had borrowed for the purpose. Duchamp, who the Irishman describes as “totally charming”, died in 1968, but his heart, thanks to O’Doherty, beats on, a pulsing line of green in a specially designed lightbox. O’Doherty’s conversation is fascinating, woven through with stories, insights, some gossip and an incredible wealth of ideas and interests, all threaded together in language as rich as poetry. He describes his Harvard days, during which he met Novak: “I was

Call to arms – kindred spirits Brian O’Doherty and his art critic wife Barbara Novak have shared the same Central Park West apartment and studio since 1969.

“In New York, you enter the engine and you’re just a little cog flying around hither and thither and yon” 42 |


completely fascinated by group dynamics and statistics, and all those formulations that were beyond me. While I can barely add two and two, I love the idea of mathematics. It’s romantic and exciting.” At this time, he was sharing a flat with Pierre Mayer, violinist with the Boston Symphony Orchestra. “I was dating Barbara, and all the symphony guys would come round, have fun, drink [...] I was the most privileged émigré ever.” It was Novak who introduced O’Doherty to his new career. Possessed of a brilliant mind herself, she had pioneered art on television with her own show. He picked up the reins when she moved on, which in turn led to the New York Times offering him the role of art critic. “I was just a lucky guy,” he says, in an unusual moment of self-deprecation, before continuing: “Napoleon used to ask his generals that – are you a lucky guy? It was a good question. I don’t presume on it because I won’t tempt fate, but ...” Maybe there is something Napoleonic about O’Doherty too – a huge strength of character, and of belief, frequently against the odds. After all, how unusual is it to succeed in not one, but at least five careers: art, broadcasting, writing, filmmaking and medicine (he was also awarded another scholarship, at Cambridge University, to study experimental psychology)? He has also made frequent trips to Ireland over the years, visiting family, and for work and exhibitions. One great project was the creation of a suite of glowing murals at the Sirius Arts Centre in Cobh in 1996. They were covered up and became semiforgotten over the years but now, thanks to the tenacity and vision of Sirius director Miranda Driscoll, they’re being restored and will open to the public again on April 20. Early glimpses of the restoration in progress show vibrant colour emerging from behind layers of white paper and paint, like glorious ghosts resurrected to life. “It’s extraordinary, the colour is good,” says O’Doherty, not without a degree of trepidation. “It would be a miracle and give me a great deal of joy,” he concludes, looking forward to the unveiling.

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The years have created an extraordinary history and legacy: memories, friendships with incredible people, groundbreaking writing, works made and some lost. Novak and O’Doherty moved to New York in 1961. “It was the beginning of the 1960s,” he says, “though the 1960s properly began on November 22, 1963” (with the assassination of John F Kennedy). “And it was in 1962 that Pop [Art] arrived in a famous show at the Sidney Janis Gallery. Then in 1965, Minimalism, in a great show at the Jewish Museum, and shortly thereafter the beginnings of Conceptualism.” What was it like at that time to be at the epicentre of everything? “I learned, with my colleagues, of the intense energies within the AvantGarde. It must have been like that with the Impressionists and Post Impressionists. When you made a move, it had to be intellectually tested and defended. That’s a very big, intense thing. I was in the middle of that group and they all became famous. I had my own measure of notoriety. Then the group explodes and people fall out ...” O’Doherty’s friendships extended to Duchamp, Mark Rothko, Edward Hopper and the composer Morton Feldman. Then there was Eva Hesse and Stuart Davis. The group would swap and gift works with one another. In 2010, O’Doherty and Novak presented some of this extraordinary collection to the Irish

Museum of Modern Art (IMMA). It includes pieces by Duchamp, Jasper Johns, Robert Rauschenberg and Roy Lichtenstein. His own works are in the collections of the Pompidou, New York’s Met Museum, MoMA and IMMA – among others. How much have things changed? I’m thinking not just of politics, O’Doherty is vehemently antiTrump, but also of more general change in one of the most iconic cities in the world. Gentrification has become a major issue. “Young people can’t live in Manhattan any more. That’s why Brooklyn has been reinvented. We may not be able to live here ourselves for more than a couple of years more. And now there’s the great decadence,” he continues. “Values are shattered; everybody is their own monumental centre of interest. It’s a vast decadence riddled with narcissism.” He pauses, then there is a smile in his voice as he remembers his arrival. “At the same time, I love it. It took about three months for my heart to stop beating faster. I always wanted to be here, to make art in Manhattan.” Brian O’Doherty’s murals will reopen as One Here Now at Sirius Arts Centre on April 20; siriusartscentre.ie. Exhibition Brian O’Doherty, Language and Space runs at Dublin’s IMMA from April 26 to September 16; imma.ie. Rotating Vowels, a new suite of his prints, is available from stoneyroadpress.com.

NEW YORK MINUTE BRIAN O’DOHERTY’S FAVOURITE PLACES Spoiled for choice with art in New York, O’Doherty has just concluded a group show at The Met Breuer. “The Met is an endless joy. The Boscoreale Frescoes [from near Pompeii], ravishing gold jewellery from East and West, the glorious African wing … it’s all there. It’s bracing, stunning, alien and familiar. Then there’s the Fragonard room

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at The Frick Collection,” he adds. “Happiness.” “We’re lucky to have Central Park on our doorstep. The central fountain, by Emma Stebbins, is socially vivid at all times. It’s where you can see America plus tourists, at play.”

It’s the big crossroads where Fifth Avenue and 59th Street meet. New York has lots of public spaces but very few squares in the European fashion. I always delight in St Stephen’s Green when I come back to Dublin.”

“I love the open plaza outside the Plaza Hotel.

Chinatown fascinates, as does Greenwich Village.

“These are areas with lots of options,” O’Doherty notes, for art as well as walks, food and drinks. The Highline is another favourite. “One of the great New York walks, on an old railroad.” The Highline weaves down the West Side, terminating at the new Whitney Museum.

The Collection By Amy Huberman

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WEST SIDE Sunshine, surf and sea. It’s easy to see why anyone would swap the grey skies of Ireland for California – but how easy is it chasing the American Dream? We ask seven Irish expats how they’ve adapted to Los Angeles. WORDS CONOR CREIGHTON PHOTOGRAPHS MATHEW SCOTT


n January this year hurricanes were battering the west coast of Florida and an ice storm was approaching New York but, for 24 hours, Twitter was clogged with the seemingly innocuous hashtag, #LArain. The weather, you see, is consistently good in Los Angeles and when it rains, it’s such an event that everyone talks about it. But that’s more or less the only consistent thing out here. The city that invented the “dude” also invented the traffic jam; the birthplace of Hollywood is also the birthplace of Harvey Weinstein; the town where everyone can be a star is the same town where homelessness

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increased 23 per cent last year. LA is fun but it is not the Big Easy. If you want to make it in Tinseltown, you have to hustle. Julia Roberts famously described it as “the beast that must be fed”, and Jack Kerouac – miserable to begin with – called it the loneliest and most brutal of American cities. But then there’s that light, the 350 fluorescent sunsets a year and the particles in the air that might be car pollution but might also be fairy dust. You see, people move to other cities to make money – but they move to Los Angeles to make magic. Cara speaks to the Irish Angelenos doing just that.


JACKIE TAYLOR To say Jackie Taylor is a costume designer who creates headpieces is as much an understatement as saying Adele sings songs. Jackie’s work has appeared at Burning Man as well as in the pages of Vogue, and if ever an Irish artist were made for the OTT, desert-tropicalia, preapocalyptic mind mash that is Los Angeles, it’s her. “My pieces scream vibrance and colour,” she says, “and Los Angeles is brimming with those same elements throughout the city.” Her unique and handmade pieces are like wearable fountains, towering into the air, framing a face in stone, cloth and glass. Originally from Galway, she moved to Berlin and then migrated to LA with her husband in 2017. Since then she has managed to pick up clients across the city. “There’s plenty of demand and heaps of creative artists here, who tend to make up a big part of my client base. I’m transitioning into making full custom looks now as well, and it’s very satisfying to help another fellow artist pull together a complete new look and aesthetic.”



JONATHAN LOUGHRAN Jonathan Loughran is the VP of development for The Ireland Funds. The Ireland Funds is one of the largest private grant-givers for Ireland and, established over 42 years ago, has raised more than $600 million for charities. Jonathan, as you can imagine, thinks he has the best job in the world. He and his wife moved to LA 13 years ago. “Anyone can move here,” he says, “but not everyone will last.” Jonathan’s arrival and survival are testament to his character: he had to live in a hotel, had no friends, no car and in that pre-smartphone era was sans internet when not in his office. “LA is a unique city in that there is no centre, rather there are 88 individual cities, including familiar ones like Santa Monica, Bel Air, Beverly Hills and West Hollywood.” Of all the odd, yet very LA, moments Jonathan has experienced, the weirdest was attending two Oscar parties in the same night and seeing Marilyn Manson at both. But Jonathan, in an effort to not incur the wrath of his friends back in Ireland, has long since stopped posting all the mad things that have happened to him here. Jonathan and his wife have kept up their language skills: “Féach ar an gcailín/buachaill uafásach/hiontach!” (“look at that terrible/great boy/girl!”) is a favourite line.


ADAM FERGUS Actor Adam Fergus has been here for seven years and has taken to LA like a flamingo to water. He lives in Studio City, he hikes at weekends and keeps fit by doing Krav Maga – a form of martial arts that is very LA right now. Originally from Co Louth, Adam is a serious actor whose performances in Supernaturals, Being Erica and Love/Hate have allowed him to build a career across Europe and North America: in post-production are a biopic on Mary Pickford, a Norwegian series Lykkeland and feature film The Professor and the Madman, co-starring Sean Penn and Mel Gibson. Young actors, he advises, should only come out here when they have a decent body of work behind them because the competition is so fierce. Adam’s reputation spoke for itself when he first made the move and this made the transition smoother. A brother to two sisters, he knows all about Hollywood’s reputation for misogyny and inequality. “Attitudes are changing in LA,” he says. “The old men who used their casting couch powers in the past have realised they can’t anymore. Change is coming but it’s a slow train.” The actor is very much in love with LA. He talks about the city’s vibe, the indescribable atmosphere. “It opens your mind. It’s great to come back here when I’ve been away shooting somewhere else.”

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DONAL SKEHAN Like almost everyone else I spoke to for these interviews, Donal Skehan embraced meditation when he moved here. Becoming the best you is very much an LA pasttime. The food writer and celebrity cook, and his business-manager wife Sofie, were faced with a decision when their Dublin home went on the market: should they buy in Dublin or just move somewhere else? Months later, they were living on the east side of LA and spending their weekends on Malibu Beach – and

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since December 2017, with their newborn son, Noah. Donal’s sunny style has translated well over here, where being Irish is definitely a plus. “What draws me to LA the most is the possibility of discovering amazing Korean BBQ and bubble tea in Koreatown, or sitting as the only English-speaking diner at a Thai breakfast joint in Thaitown.” Donal’s work has brought him into the world of high celebrity. He recently cooked steak for William Shatner and Sugar Ray Leonard for a show filmed in Universal Studios. “Anyone can move here,” he says. “You just have to be open to understanding the city for its quirks and sprawling influences.”


JOELLE MOLLOY Joelle Molloy has taken a different route to most of the Irish who move here. Joelle, an artist in her own right, whose paintings hang Downtown, is, to paraphrase JFK, “asking not what LA can do for you, but what you can do for LA”. Currently sitting the California bar, she has her sights set on tackling the city’s biggest human rights problem: homelessness. There are more than 50,000 homeless people – a figure that rose 23 per cent last year. Downtown, where she lives, is the epicentre of the problem. “They bus homeless people from wealthier suburbs like Beverly Hills here and the problem just grows and grows,” says Joelle, who works with a number of organisations providing showers for some of the homeless and operating a system whereby restaurants can pass their leftovers on to homeless people in their vicinity. Her plan is to hone her skills and then take what she has learned back to Dublin. Joelle is impatient: “The world could end at any time,” she says. But she’s also a polymath: she creates, she fights legal battles and works tirelessly on behalf of the homeless. She probably has a good book in her too.


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SIVE O’TOOLE & JONATHAN KIRBY Sive O’Toole and Jonathan Kirby are a power couple in the world of design. Jonathan is at home with denim and cloth while Sive is more familiar with paint and wood. Sive has made a name for herself in the US as a restaurant and hotel designer, while Jonathan has worked with Levi’s and is now a consultant with The Lost Explorer. The couple say living here has taught them to be more assertive. “You need to give 100 per cent and be pretty confident. It’s a very competitive city. People here never take no for an answer.” But at the same time, LA, they say, is a very positive place: sunshine, surf, sea and palm trees. That famous weather, they admit, plays a huge role. “It encourages clients and designers to take more risks and embrace the indoor/outdoor life that is California.” LA is a very laid-back city but it can also be an intense place. The couple’s advice on how to deal with this intensity should come as no surprise to anyone who has been fortunate enough to spend any amount of time in their good company: “A sense of humour,” they say, “You can’t sweat the small stuff.”

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Norman invasions, haunted houses, archery and coastline kayaking … New Ross and the Hook Peninsula are rich with heart-stopping activities for lovers of Irish history. WORDS YVONNE GORDON PHOTOGRAPHS PIOTR DYBOWSKI AND DAVID SCIORA


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his is where Ireland was lost and won,” says guide Graham Doyle. It’s a big statement to make as we sit in a two-person kayak in the middle of a huge bay. There wasn’t a soul on the beach and there are no other boats in the bay – we have the whole blue expanse to ourselves. And today the calm and sparkly sea is extra blue, thanks to a cloudless sky. Paddling over to an inlet under the headland, Graham explains that here at Baginbun, on the Hook Peninsula in Ireland’s southeast, is where a wave of Norman landings changed the course of Irish history back in the 12th century. The invaders captured Waterford and Wexford, founded New Ross and Norman leader Strongbow later became the King of Leinster. I hear about “the greatest knight” William Marshall, a female knight called Alice of Abergavenny, about pirates and 1,000 shipwrecks on the sea bed. “A lot of people think sea kayaking is going out to sea,” says Graham, from Hook Head Adventures (hookheadadventures.ie). “It’s not that at all. You’re exploring the coastline. You’re in a place that has a story and characters.” We paddle into the inlet where there’s a tiny beach and, behind it, a cave in the cliff. It’s an old test mine and you can climb through the cave to the other side. We glide in and out of more inlets, at one stage swirling through a narrow rocky gully, as seabirds cry overhead and Graham tells more stories. At the tip of the headland, there’s a sea cave called the Cell Hole, where you kayak into the dark and the sun lights up the water beneath a luminous green. It’s

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all a magical world to explore, made rich with stories of history and characters of times past. My head is filled with tales of armies, knights and pirates as I drive around the Hook Peninsula. Just north of Baginbun is Tintern Abbey (051 562 650) built by the knight William Marshall. When he and his wife Isabel de Clare, daughter of Strongbow, were nearly shipwrecked in a storm on the way to Ireland, Marshall promised to build an abbey on his safe arrival. The result was a magnificent Cistercian Abbey, built in 1200 as a sister to Tintern in Wales. Monks lived there until the 16th century, when the Colclough family took up residence. It’s now partly a ruin but you can tour the living quarters. A walk along a

Previous pages, left, rug-maker Denis Kenny of Ceadogán Rugs in Barrystown, and right, kayaking at Baginbun Beach. Clockwise from top, a bronze horse at the studio of Gilly Thomas Sculpture in Gusserane; Graham Doyle of Hook Head Adventures on a sunrise kayak trip and Dunbrody Abbey.



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woodland path lined with bluebells in spring leads to Colclough Walled Garden (colcloughwalledgarden. com) filled with everything from flowers to fruit trees. Marshall also established Hook Lighthouse (hookheritage.ie), which stands proudly at the tip of Hook Head and has lit the way for ships for more than 800 years, making it the world’s oldest intact working lighthouse. On a tour, I encounter Marshall’s hologram. “I’m sure you’ve already heard of me as I am also known as The Greatest Knight,” he boasts, listing his many achievements. One of Marshall’s legacies was founding New Ross on the River Barrow, a thriving town and once one of Ireland’s wealthiest ports. The Ros Tapestry (rostapestry.ie) is a series of 15 hand-embroidered tapestries, telling fascinating tales in colourful thread of the Normans in Ireland and the founding of the town. New Ross’s quays are no longer lined with longships, although you can’t miss the tall masts of the Dunbrody Famine Ship (dunbrody.com), a replica of an 1840s emigrant vessel, which is open for tours. “There’s your ticket, ‘Margaret Makasy, age 23’,” says an old woman, handing me the ticket for a steerage passage to New York, dated March 1849. “Enjoy your voyage, hope you have your bags packed,” she says. On board the Dunbrody, everything looks how it would have in the 1800s when it carried people to America and Canada in search of a better life, or to escape the Famine. Below in the hold, we see where families shared large bunks and we hear of the challenging conditions during the long Atlantic crossing. The ship itself was named after Dunbrody Abbey in

Opposite, clockwise from top left, inviting interiors at Kilmokea Country Manor; country house chic at Kilmokea; Hook Lighthouse is the world’s oldest intact operational lighthouse; Highland cows roam the paddocks at Glendine Country House; colourful yarns at Ceadogán Rugs; sculptor Gilly Thomas working in clay; an ornamental pool at Kilmokea Heritage Gardens; a steak sambo at The Cracked Teapot and Dunbrody Abbey from above. This page, top, kayaking off Baginbun Head on the Hook Peninsula and a farmyard resident at Ceadogán Rugs.


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Campile, founded in 1170. You can visit the ruins (self-guided; 086 375 9938) and opposite, at Dunbrody Castle, there’s a fun, yew-hedge maze. Also worth visiting are Ballyhack Castle (051 389 468), a tower house built by the Knights Hospitaller of St John around 1540, and the impressive, starshaped Duncannon Fort (duncannonfort.ie) overlooking Duncannon beach. One of my last stops is a sunset tour at Loftus Hall (loftushall.ie) – said to be Ireland’s most haunted house. Boarded up windows, crucifixes, peeling wallpaper and dark stories of past inhabitants and its troubled history leave an unsettling feeling. With tales of ghosts, pirates and knights ringing in my ears, it seems fitting to have a go at 3D Archery (3darcheryireland.com) in the grounds of Kilmokea House, where a Norman-themed woodland trail has threedimensional animal shapes to aim at. The instructor, Andrew, patiently explains how to hold the bow and soon arrows are whizzing through the trees – though the landings are not as accurate as those of the Normans. It’s a thrilling way to end an adventure through so much history, exploring forts, abbeys, castles, lighthouses and ships. As the saying goes, “By the creek of Baginbun, Ireland was lost and won” – and this little corner of southeast Ireland is definitely where my heart was won. 60 |


Spooky – Loftus Hall, top, is said to be Ireland’s most haunted house. Clockwise from above, fish‘n’chips at Roches Bar; pint o’clock at Neville’s, Fethard-on-Sea and tea time at the Kennedy Homestead, New Ross.

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STAY HERITAGE With cosy reception rooms, open fires, antiques and books, plus an indoor pool and three hectares of gardens, this 18th-century former rectory, Kilmokea Country Manor, is the ultimate country house hideaway. Some rooms have four-poster beds and free-standing baths and food includes garden produce. B&B from €75 per pps. (Great Island, Campile, 051 388 109; kilmokea.com) LUXURY Dunbrody House is an elegant Georgian pile that has been converted into a small and relaxed luxury hotel. Original 1830s features are mixed with contemporary design and rooms have every detail from Nespresso machines to Bose sound systems. With a gourmet restaurant, pub, gardens and spa, it’s tempting not to leave. B&B from €95 pps. (Arthurstown, 051 389 600; dunbrodyhouse.com)

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RUSTIC Also dating from the Georgian era, Glendine Country House was the dower house of the Dunbrody Estate. The paddocks are home to Highland cattle, Jacob sheep and fallow deer and inside, you’ll find a cosy drawing room with antiques and an open fire. B&B from €49 pps. (Arthurstown, 051 389 500; glendinehouse.com)

EAT COSY TEAROOMS Drop in to The Cracked Teapot in New Ross for delicious treats such as beech-smoked salmon (from local Ballyhack Smokehouse) served with Guinness and treacle bread, or homemade lemon cake. (6 Quay Street, New Ross; 087 215 3744) FINE DINING Billy Whitty and Joanne Harding have won awards for the food at Aldridge Lodge. The four-course tasting menu features plenty of local seafood – such as crispy Kilmore monkfish, plus meat dishes such as wild

venison loin. The lodge also has three guest rooms. (Duncannon, 051 389 116; aldridgelodge.com) CASUAL Tuck into tasty beerbattered local fish and chips and craft beer at The Local at Dunbrody House (non-residents welcome). Dunbrody is also home to Arthurstown Brewing Co – hops, wheat and oats are grown locally so even the beer is truly local. (Arthurstown, 051 389 601; dunbrodyhouse.com)

DRINK TRADITIONAL Nab a table near the fire in Roches Bar in Duncannon. There’s an extensive whiskey and gin selection, as well as local craft beers and ciders, and food until 9pm (Quay Road, Duncannon, 051 389 188) or drop into family-run pub Neville’s Bar and Kitchen in Fethard-on-Sea for local beers like Dunbrody Pale Ale and Hook Pilsner and a menu with everything from seafood chowder

to pizza. (Fethard-on-Sea, 051 397 160; nevilles.ie)

SMART TIPS For a custom tour with a guide with a passion for everything from local history to Wexford’s best food, contact Lorraine O’Dwyer of Gallivanting Tours (053 910 0779; gallivantingtours.ie). For other ideas on what to see and do, see irelandsancienteast.com. The Hook Head Peninsula is popular for coasteering – an adrenaline-filled way to explore the coast through scrambling, swimming and jumping. Try Shielbaggan Outdoor Education Centre (Ramsgrange, 051 389 550; shielbagganoec.com). If driving back towards Dublin or Wexford town, drop into Secret Valley Wildlife Park. Kids (and grown-ups) will love the handson experiences such as animal feeding. (Clonroche, Enniscorthy, 053 924 4023; secretvalley.ie)



Top construction companies are developing high-profile projects on both sides of the Irish Sea – the best forging relationships with the HSS/Laois Hire Group, Ireland’s only nationwide plant and tool hire firm.


hether it’s the Meccano and Lego of childhood, or the bricks and mortar of industry, if you’re in the business of building you know intuitively that solid foundations and quality structures require reliable, unbreakable connections. So it makes sense that Ireland’s most progressive construction companies connect with the most successful tool and plant hire company bridging the Irish sea – the HSS/Laois Hire Group, an established network of 27 hire branches across Ireland who’ve recently launched additional branches in Limerick and Waterford. Building success in good times or in bad is what it’s all about for Michael Killeen, managing director of the HSS/ Laois Hire group. In 1992 he founded Laois Hire with his wife Maureen, and the company merged into the HSS family in 2005 and successfully navigated the recession to see year-on-year growth. It’s this dynamic attitude that explains why their equipment is seen on the most high profile Irish construction sites. From large infrastructure projects to the MedTech and Renewable sectors, the HSS/ Laois Hire Group brand is a strong, reliable presence and the reason why it supplies

some of the largest companies in Ireland and the UK. Mr Killeen makes at least four flights between Ireland and the UK each week, so is well aware of the huge number of Irish contractors and their employees commuting on the same routes. The HSS/Laois Hire Group are committed to offering their experience of success, reliability and high quality to Irish clients doing business in the United Kingdom. Conducting business away from home doesn’t have to entail the tedious trial and error of making new connections abroad. Clients, used to excellence in customer service, a professional workforce, wellmaintained, quality equipment and a commitment to health and safety from HSS/Laois Hire Group in Ireland can expect the exact same standards from any of their 200 plus depots across Ireland and the UK. Certainly, having such large network of depots nationwide makes smooth, commercial and financial sense for BAM Construction’s plant purchasing manager, Brian Behan. “It’s a huge benefit. Wherever we are, they’re within a stone’s throw,” he says, adding that, in a business where safety is paramount, “HSS/Laois Hire Service Group is second to none”.

DREAM TEAM – l-r, Limerick branch manager Ger Punch pictured with rugby star CJ Stander and Michael Killeen, managing director for HSS / Laois Hire Group at the Limerick branch opening.



This April, the Florida Keys celebrate 36 years as the “Conch Republic”, a faux secession that epitomises the region’s rebellious spirit and a devotion to the ocean. WORDS LUCY WHITE PHOTOGRAPHS EOIN HIGGINS


I Opening page, a buzzard’seye view of Key West on an Air Adventures Helicopter Tour. Clockwise from top, beach house envy in Key Largo; pelicans rule the roost at Marathon’s Hungry Tarpon, and Miami’s Chantae Moore celebrating her birthday in Key West’s Historic Seaport. 66 |


t’s often difficult to see where the sea starts and the sky ends while cruising along the Overseas Highway from Key Largo to Key West. Depending on the time of day, their blue hues seem to melt into one another. At other times their division is Rothko-linear; a distinct monochrome of azure and celeste. Both are a sight for sore, European-wintered eyes – as if someone just turned on the Technicolor. Add to this glorious mirage swathes of roadside savanna, nature reserves, rugged beaches, 1970s motels, trailer parks, diners, strip malls, pastel hamlets and brightly coloured fibreglass manatee, dolphin and lobster signage and it’s quite the mélange. The Florida Keys – an archipelago on the southernmost tip of the United States – are not just vibrant in colour but in spirit, too. On April 23 in 1982, the Keys declared “war” on the US in protest against its checkpoints for searching vehicles for narcotics and illegal immigrants from Cuba. Only, this war was more symbolic than bombastic and consisted of breaking a stale loaf of Cuban bread over the head of a man in naval uniform in declaration of “The Conch Republic” (conch – as in the sea snail – here pronounced “conk”). Remarkably, this faux secession and its subsequent column inches actually worked, the roadblocks disappearing literally overnight. More than 30 years on, the Conch Republic remains as fervent as ever, its self-declared sovereignty committed


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to bringing “Humour, Warmth and Respect” to staunchly conservative Florida. This rebellious yet inclusive streak is no more evident than in Key West, some 250 kilometres from Miami International Airport via the aforementioned Overseas Highway, aka Route 1. It’s where drag bars and rainbowcoloured pedestrian crossings reign on raucous Duval Street, where wild chickens roam free and an openminded ageing population rocks tie-dye. If Florida is God’s waiting room, then Key West is its last, groovy hoorah. This laid-back demographic, combined with beautiful, historic clapboard houses, courtyard cafés and a notable lack of big, chain brands, makes for a spirited mix. For a site-brewed cortadito, try Cuban Queen Coffee on Key Lime Square (cubancoffeequeen.com) or for dinner with a generous dollop of people-watching, the Victorian-listed front porch of Grand Café, run by Irish owner Maria Wevers (grandcafekeywest.com). For excellently curated reads, browse the delightful Books and Books on Easton Street (booksandbookskw.com), while literary fiends won’t leave town without visiting the new Tennessee Williams Museum (twkw.org) and Ernest Hemingway House (hemingwayhome.com), whose 50+ polydactyl cats are easily outnumbered by sweaty tourists pouring into the writer’s zealously airconditioned former home. On the harbour at sunset, Mallory Square is thronged with the selfie-taking, cocktail-supping masses, street performers and – weirdly, pseudo-

spiritually – cheers and rounds of applause when the sun takes its leave below a yacht-studded horizon. By day, the nearby historic seaport is a magnet for boattrippers intent on spotting dolphins. Fury Adventures (furycat.com) can’t guarantee photo-ready sea life but do deliver a gratifying sail and a return to shore that’s woozily enhanced by free-flowing chilled beers and wines. (Back on terra firma, pop into Kermit’s Key West Key Lime Shoppe for lime-frosted pretzels and zesty salsas; keylimeshop.com). And for a buzzard’s-eye view: Air Adventures Helicopter Tours (fly-keywest. com) offer highly enjoyable airborne jaunts, from which beachfront condos, giant cruise ships and historic forts take miniature, cluster form. From above, the expanse of ocean and resultant resorts are a potent reminder of how much the Keys rely on fishing and tourism, the latter accounting for 60 per cent of the overall economy and more than half of the region’s jobs. In September 2017, Hurricane Irma caused considerable damage on both infrastructure and ecosystem, with pockets of devastation still visible today. But like nature itself, communities regrouped, repaired,

Opposite – clockwise from far left, the historic homes of Key West; a bevvy of boats at Key Largo’s Pilot House Marina; Key West kitsch; pineapple express on Mallory Square; shutter islands; drive-by souvenirs in Key West. Clockwise from above left, a Northern Mockingbird on pelican watch; twin palms at the Key Largo Bay Marriott Key Largo Beach Resort and surival of the fittest at Fisherman’s Café in Key West.


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Clockwise from left, a patient on the mend at the Turtle Hospital in Marathon; pick-up trucks are a staple in the Florida Keys – and the occasional classic car; chill time at Tranquility Bay Beach House Resort.

restored. Local businesses came together, and none more so than the restaurant and fishing sectors, which were already co-dependent. This is perfectly demonstrated at The Stoned Crab restaurant (stonedcrab.com), where an alliance with Florida’s Three Hands Fish initiative guarantees that the locally sourced mahi-mahi, for instance, on your plate has passed through only three hands within just a matter of hours: the commercial fisherman, the fillet master and the chef. Executive chef Paul Menta is a passionate advocate of supporting local fisheries – even the restaurant’s name refers to the most sustainable of crustaceans, whose broken limbs regrow and are therefore ideal for farming. Our crab claws here, washed down with a cocktail liberally spiked with Menta’s own Legal Rum (keywestlegalrum.com), were exceptional. Heading north, to Marathon, more lessons are to be learnt in wildlife conservation. The Turtle Hospital cum veterinary centre (turtlehospital. org) rehabilitates injured turtles, some of which have been hit by boats, others are riddled with the fibropapillomatosis virus that causes benign yet debilitating tumours thought to be caused by a lethal combination of biotoxins, environmental pollutants and global warming. It’s a must-visit on the way back to the airport but likewise don’t leave the Keys without 70 |


doing a snorkel trip with the Rainbow Reef Dive Center (rainbowreef.us) and Coral Restoration Foundation Education Center (coralrestoration.org). The latter is in the throes of a three-year environmental project that grows native coral in a nursery out at sea before effectively “gluing” it to the eight reefs between Key Largo and Key West. Over-fishing, climate change, disease and pollutants have depleted the world’s reefs: 97 per cent of Florida’s staghorn and elkhorn coral have disappeared since the 1970s, which has had a devastating impact on sea animals, around quarter of which depend on coral health. To help replenish endangered stocks, the foundation grows coral on 400 underwater “trees” for six to nine months before taking finger-sized cuttings for replantation. The Rainbow Reef Dive Center promotes this sterling work by taking snorkellers out to see the conservation efforts. Bobbing above this unique farm as fish glisten in the sunlight is a true highlight of Key Largo. I may never so much as look at another Key Lime Pie but a part of me will always be gazing across the shimmering waters of the Gulf of Mexico and pondering the Irma-battered palm trees as a metaphor for the Conch Republicans themselves; many shaken and stirred by the current climate but never more resilient, defiant and deeply rooted to its core values: Humour, Warmth, Respect.

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ALL-ROUNDER A large, motel-style hotel that wraps around a pool, Key Largo Bay Marriott Beach Resort has an enviable location overlooking the Gulf of Mexico. Pull up a sun lounger and raise a margarita to the sunset, have an equally delicious swim or rent a bike. Not necessarily in that order. Rooms from $184; family suites with full kitchens for longer stays. (103800 Overseas Highway, Key Largo, +1 305 453 0000; marriott.com)

TACOS The abundance of seafood in the Florida Keys is no surprise, with fish and shrimp tacos a staple of many a menu. My favourite for the latter were at Key Largo’s casual bar and restaurant Pilot House Marina, which is best known for having a (partial) glass floor over the water. It also had, in my humble opinion, the best Key Lime Pie on our trip. Deliciously tart and with a superior base. (13 Seagate Boulevard, Key Largo, +1 305 451 3142; pilothousemarina.com)

FAMILY FUN Almost equidistant between Key Largo and Key West, Tranquility Bay Beach House Resort has a variety of hotel-style guest rooms but it’s the two- and three-bed selfcatering clapboard “houses” – complete with two-storey front porches – that really charm. White sands, water sports, multiple swimming pools and locally sourced seafood at the Butterfly Café make for a family-friendly treat. Rooms from $251. (2600 Overseas Highway, Marathon, +1 305 289 0888; tranquilitybay.com)

OCEAN FRESH Also in Key Largo, another of my favourite meals was at Sundowners, helmed by local cook/restaurateur hero Bobby Stoky. When your catch is this fresh, it’s best cooked simply and their pan-seared yellowtail snapper with scampi butter and garlic, and piquant, sherried Homestead tomatoes, were sensational. Don’t leave without buying their take-home jerk and blackened seasoning. (103900 Overseas Highway, Key Largo, +1 305 451 4502; sundownerskeylargo.com)

ON-TREND If you can get over the initial shock of fighter jets regularly roaring overhead (there’s a naval air base on Boca Chica Key), you’ll find The Perry, below, perfectly restful. A new build beside an attractive marina – and a 15-minute drive into town – it draws on its nautical location nicely: boat propellers are used as a design feature in the lobby and other such repurposed maritime flotsam and jetsam decorate the property. Balconied rooms overlooking the pool are as sleek as any yacht. Rooms from $224. (7001 Shrimp Road Drive, Key West, +1 305 296 1717; perrykeywest.com)

WILDLIFE Islamorada’s Hungry Tarpon makes for an excellent casual pitstop, around halfway between Miami airport and Key West. It’s set beside a marina, where peckish tarpon fish – hence the name – graze off the pier as myriad pelicans look on. The Caribbean-biased menu is overwhelmingly large but this hungry writer enjoyed blackened mahi-mahi in a brioche bun and locally brewed hibiscus and honey beer. The bacon, shrimp and meat-straw-infused Trailer Trash Bloody Mary, above right, is a meal in itself … (77522 Overseas Highway, Islamorada, +1 305 664 0535; hungrytarpon.com)

OASIS What was once the birthplace of Pan-Am, with the first tickets sold out of the building in 1927, is now a casual restaurant and craft brewery. Key West’s First Flight Island Restaurant’s courtyard sees poultry roam free, excellent bar food (I can personally recommend the Street Corn Avocado, charred Brussels sprouts and heirloom tomato, mozzarella, balsamic and IPA-infused pesto flatbread) and a troubadour acing the American songbook. So good I went there twice. (301 Whitehead Street, Key West, +1 305 293 8484; firstflightkw.com)

SMART TIPS Miami International Airport is huge – as is the daunting network of highways and expressways leading in and out but, for the Keys, simply head south on US Route 1. The Car Hire Center is based on level three of the airport and accessed by the Mover Station (monorail). Plan your itinerary with a thorough snoop on the Florida Keys Visitor Website before your trip, which has a calendar of events as well as a directory of places to stay and sightsee. fla-keys.com Sweet-toothers may want to save luggage space for multifarious bonbons at Key Largo Chocolates, which are made on the premises. Look out for the unmissable flamingo pink and Key Lime façade on the Overseas Highway. keylargochocolates.com

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to MIAMI three times per week.


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New Store at 114 Grafton Street Coming Soon 37–38 Nassau Street, Dublin City Centre · Dublin Airport Terminal 1 & 2 · Belfast City Airport Tax Free Shopping for non EU customers

You say, we say ...


Celebrate Unesco’s World Book Day on April 23 in a literary haven, ranging from the historic to the shabbiest of chic, says Fionn Davenport.


Good vibes and the Southern California weather are key to the success of Bart’s, a largely outdoor bookshop in spiritually inclined Ojai. Most of the books – used and new, on everything from sci-fi to self-help – are displayed on shelves in a courtyard, and you can even buy books when it’s closed: just


OJAI BART’S BOOKS pick a title and leave the cash in the honour box outside. bartsbooksojai.com

Aer Lingus flies daily from Dublin to Los Angeles.


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NORTHUMBERLAND BARTER BOOKS The restored Victorian railway station in Northumberland’s Alnwick is home to one of Britain’s largest independent bookstores, where open fires and velvet ottomans invite readers to linger in the former first-class waiting rooms. During refurbishments the owners found a stack of World War II posters, which they reproduced as a charming sideline; they were hardly to know that “Keep Calm and Carry On” would become an exasperating global phenomenon. barterbooks.co.uk

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Newcastle up to seven times per week.


SAN FRANCISCO CITY LIGHTS BOOKS More than just a bookshop, free speech has prospered here on Columbus Avenue since 1957, when founder (and poet) Lawrence Ferlinghetti won the right to publish Allen Ginsberg’s epic Howl. Load up on books from the “Pedagogies of Resistance” section and snag a spot in the Poet’s Chair overlooking Jack Kerouac Alley; the revolution started by the original hipsters is still very much alive, man. citylights.com

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to San Francisco daily.


BORDEAUX MOLLAT France’s first independent bookstore, Mollat opened in 1896 and has since become one of the country’s most famous booksellers, as well as an important Bordelais cultural checkpoint. Its vast collection (the shelves stretch for 18 kilometres) is monitored by more than 50 highly expert librarians who will guide you through the various sections, including the substantial foreign language one. mollat.com

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Bordeaux up to nine times per week.

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BERLIN ANOTHER COUNTRY This left-leaning Kreuzberg fixture is less conventional bookshop and more of a lending library with a twist. Pick from among its sprawling 20,000-strong collection of (mostly English) secondhand books and, when you’re done, return it for a refund minus a €1.50 fee. Owner Sophie Raphaeline also hosts readings, events, movie screenings and even dinner nights, where liberal thinking is actively encouraged. anothercountry.de

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Berlin up to twice daily.


VENICE LIBRERIA ACQUA ALTA The threat of flooding is not a good look for any bookshop, but this most Venetian of stores embraces the decay and makes it work. During the inevitable winter floods, the rubber-boot-wearing owner transfers titles from the lower shelves of his labyrinthine shop to bathtubs, boats and gondolas. And he knows what he’s doing – the bookshop’s name means “high waters”. +39 041 296 0841

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Venice up to eight times per week.


LONDON DAUNT BOOKS London’s most beautiful bookshop has long oak galleries beneath a conservatory ceiling, backed by a magnificent stained-glass window, an indication that Edwardian bibliophiles liked to browse in style. It’s a first-rate shop for fiction but it also has a superb collection of travel-related titles, spread across three floors. An armchair traveller’s dream on Marylebone High Street. dauntbooks.co.uk

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to London Heathrow up to 14 times daily, from Cork five times daily, from Shannon and Belfast three times daily and from Dublin to Gatwick five times per day.


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This esoteric little store off Dundas Street West is not for buying the book you want, but for stumbling across the miscellaneous title you didn’t know you needed. Browsing the oddball collection is most of the fun, as is purchasing a book from the Biblio-Mat, a vending machine that dispenses random old books for $2. “Every book a surprise,” reads the sign. “No two alike. Collect all 112 million titles.” monkeyspaw.com


Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Toronto daily.


LISBON LIVRARIA LER DEVAGAR Arts centre bookshops are often no more than a nod to the genre, but this floor-to-ceiling space in LX Factory, Lisbon’s centre for cutting-edge creativity, is a pantheon to the written word. Beneath the antique printing machines and flying bicycle suspended from the roof of this former printing factory is a superb bookshop, whose strengths are books on art and culture. lerdevagar.com

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Beloved almost to the point of fetishism, Broadway’s Strand Book Store is a New York cultural institution, as sensitively protected as any of its great museums. Its “18 miles of shelves”, spread across three tangled floors, contain more than two-and-a-half million new, used and rare books; in the unlikely event you don’t find what you’re looking for, there’s always the iconic Strand tote bag to parade your brainy bona fides. strandbooks.com

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Lisbon up to 11 times per week. Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to New York JFK twice daily and from Shannon six times per week.

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FLAVOURS Smack your lips with delight at what’s on offer on New York’s coolly innovative Asian food scene. WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHS EOIN HIGGINS



t’s fast-paced and unapologetically competitive. New York City is the quintessential immigrant-made metropolis, where every race, creed and colour of human being compete to make whatever success means to them a reality. No more so than in restaurants. The Big Apple is a place where every nationality has a presence, sure, but crucially, it’s also a city where every nationality has a restaurant serving an iteration of its native cuisine. From Trinidadian roti cafés to dive Armenian diners, you name it, it’s got it, which makes it – to understate wildly – difficult to “recommend a few restaurants” when visitors ask about where to eat there. My personal dining dalliances with the insomniac city began in the early-noughties. Prior to that I was more into its dance floor than its dining-room scene, but time is a healer and I currently spend most of my visits there in search of cool eating experiences. I’ve come to develop an appreciation of the dives as much as the high-end temples of gastronomy – the “cheap-ass” joints that weather the foibles and fads of New York’s capricious citizenry. I’ve also developed a love for its casual Asian food experiences. There is no other city on Earth that has as much variety in that realm, the city awash with good value, “mad-tasty” Asian food options. Typically, my first bite is at Xi’an Famous Foods (xianfoods. com). Originally a gritty street food shop in Queens (with a massive cult following), Xi’an is now an 11-outlet operation and a favourite of kitchen confidante Anthony Bourdain. The eponymous city of Xi’an, whose cuisine inspires the menu, is located in the northwest of China – close to the Silk Road – and subsequently the food here contains an unmistakable Middle-Eastern influence. Think flavourful cumin lamb burgers and chilli-pickled, hand-torn noodles served in a stripped back, fast food environment – the spicy-hot, umami flavour combinations are addictive and tasty. Across town at the casual yet ultra-refined Ivan Ramen’s Clinton 82 |


Street branch (ivanramen.com), the order of the day is slurping down insanely delicious Japanese ramen – silky noodles typically enveloped in a smooth, flavourful pork broth. The restaurant was set up by native New Yorker – and bona fide ramen master – Ivan Orkin, who spent years perfecting his craft in Tokyo and who, unusually, became a fully accepted member of the Tokyo “ramenati” during his tenure. Ivan and his flagship restaurant have also featured in the smash Netflix series Chef ’s Table (season three) and it’s not hard to see why. Try the ramen, of course, but also have a go at the steamed pork buns,

Previous spread, left, Japanese fried chicken at Ivan Ramen, and it’s a love-in at newcomer Tetsu, where Jeannette Park is director of brand strategy, right. Top, Chinatown, in all its industrious glory and, above, name that tuna at Tetsu.


OF GLUCKSMAN IRELAND HOUSE NYU Of Irish writing, culture, scholarship, An answer given to the famine ship, A feis, a court of poetry, a seisiún, Academy and legacy, a boon. -Seamus Heaney, 2013 as.nyu.edu/irelandhouse


Rising sun, above – with each new day brings a dizzying array of Asian eats to consider. Bottom left and right, it’s all in the detail at Tokyo Record Bar, from chef Zachary Fabian cooking up a storm in the kitchen through to guest tables, where classic library-style lamps rub shoulders with a 1980s hi-fi. Middle, holy basil pork fried rice with fried egg at Tetsu. Opposite page, clockwise from top right, Ashtin Berry, beverage curator at Tokyo Record Bar; hand-torn noodles at Xi’an, and hypnotic prep at Dumpling Man.

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the Ika fried rice (with stir-fried squid, smoked chillis and scallions) and Ivan’s legendary spicy Brussels sprouts – all super delicious. No visit (of mine, at least) would be complete without a visit to the worldwide phenomenon that is David Chang and Christina Tosi’s (between them, recipients of eight James Beard awards) Momofuku (momofuku.com). Before opening the original Momofuku Noodle Bar in 2004, Chang had scuffed his chef’s clogs under the tutelage of culinary heavy-hitters Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Daniel Boulud and Tom Colicchio – meaning his high-end credentials were always assured, however his real success was borne out of his passionately executed, distinctive brand of snobbery-free/ Asian fast-casual/neo-streetfood/ (whatever you want to call it) dining experiences. Chang has been, and remains, a true innovator on the scene. Of the various restaurants in the group to choose from, Momofuku Ssäm Bar (ssambar.momofuku.com) – while not rigidly Asian, but bearing lots of Asian influence – is a good allrounder, plus it’s run by charming exDubliner Sara Jimenez, who captains a slick, yet hospitable, operation. Check it out over a pleasurable weekend brunch of stuffed rotisserie duck, a side of pickles and, to drink: a Seven Spice Sour should pick you right up.

Over in the East Village, tiny, counter-café Dumpling Man (+1 212 505 2121) does a natty line in colourful, steamed and fried dumplings. Behind a glass partition, dumpling-makers pluck and pinch the beautiful creations into existence – half the appeal is watching them in action. The other half, of course, is the pork, chicken, shrimp, tofu or vegetable pockets themselves – neatlywrapped, handmade pouches of juicy, comforting flavour that always taste like just one more ... If you want to upscale your Asian experience for a night out, there is a tonne of highly polished options, too. A newcomer, and already something of a hotspot, Tetsu (tetsunyc.com) is a dark, atmospheric and modern take on the Japanese robatayaki, in which food is mostly cooked over a charcoal grill. Located in the heart of TriBeCa, it’s a sibling of the world-famous Masa, and the creation of sushi sage Masayoshi Takayama. Where Masa is a hallowed vision of culinary precision, Tetsu is another dream entirely: sexier, perhaps; edgier, for sure. Try chef Masa’s first ever burger – a game-changer – while the cocktail situation is just as flavour-exploding. If Thai is your thing, Andy Ricker’s Pok Pok (pokpokrestaurants.com) started out as a small shop that built up a big cult following in the hipster

SMART TIPS For more ideas, including shopping, dining, tours, museums, sightseeing, green spaces and more, see nycgo.com. Transport in the city can be a hellish or heavenly experience, so in order to veer towards the latter, there are three smartphone apps that will make getting from A-B much easier and should be installed on your phone prior to arrival. Uber, Lyft and Citymapper will save you time and money when navigating the city’s multiple transport options.


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magnet of Portland, Oregon. The Pacific Northwest is still where most of Ricker’s empire struts its stuff but the Brooklyn waterfront outpost is also worthy of attention. Thai streetfood is the name of the game here, as well as its famous drinking vinegars. The house special: whole roasted BoBo chicken, stuffed with garlic, lemongrass, pepper and fresh coriander and served with spicy sweet and sour and tamarind dipping sauces is the go-to. Also try the fish sauce wings. And the Chiang Mai sausage. And the ... You get the picture. Meanwhile, the millenniallyloved Uncle Boons (uncleboons.com) over in NoLita is another Southeast Asian Michelin-superstar, where a pop crowd devours small plates of big flavour, like the brash Muu Tod Kapi (shrimp paste pork riblets and radishes with fish sauce caramel), or the magically exotic Mee Krob (sweetbreads with crispy noodle, salad peanuts, dried shrimp, egg, sawtooth and tamarind). In Chinatown you’ll find a helluva lot more to offer the curious Asian chow hound and, 86 |


while the choice of dim sum and dumpling dives can be dizzying, for a quick, no-fuss fix try the slightly eccentric (the waiters all wear Hawaiian shirts) and pleasingly pared-back HK Wonton Garden (hkwontongarden.com), where the wonton soup wows and the century egg is beautifully-hatched. On my most recent visit to the Empire State, the talk of the town was Tokyo Record Bar (tokyorecordbar.com). Like nothing I’ve participated in before, the “experience” lasted an hour and a half and involved diners tucking in to a seven-course izakaya menu, interspersed with kooky cocktails and feel-good record requests made to a vinyl-spinning DJ. Kind of like a cross between a karaoke bar (less the terrible singing), a record club for vintage music nuts and a bewitching Tokyo food and cocktails joint, where only those very much in-the-know come to hang out and get down – and yet another reason for me to return, very soon, to NYC’s always coolly innovative and brashly flavourful Asian food scene.

Angles in America – chop-chop at Tetsu, where a minimalist working kitchen is a thing of beauty, top. Above, here’s one they made earlier at Mr Dumpling.

Fly return to New York from Dublin and Shannon this summer for 40,000 Avios points. Remember, if you don’t have enough points to fly to where you want to go, you can use those that you have and pay the rest in cash*.



NEW YORK ESSENTIALS Beacon, left, opened its doors alongside the Beacon Theatre to a great amount of buzz in 1928. At 24 stories, it towered above all other buildings in the neighbourhood and rivalled the skyscrapers of Midtown Manhattan. Today, the hotel is just as attractive a proposition for New York City visitors looking for reasonably priced, practical accommodation close to everything that downtown has to offer. Rooms from $195. (2130 Broadway, +1 212 787 1100; beaconhotel.com)


OFF BROADWAY Four stars strong, the stalwart, reliable Fitzpatrick Hotel Manhattan is comfortable, central and offers modern amenities and a personalised service should you need it. The property is ideal for both leisure and business travellers, with 91 rooms and suites and a personal level of service that you might experience at an Irish country house hotel, in the middle of Manhattan. Rooms from $198. (687 Lexington Ave, +1 212 355 0100; fitzpatrickhotels.com) VENERABLE Designed by architect Walter Ahlschlager in the Beaux-Arts style, Hotel

VALUE The Wyndham Garden Brooklyn Sunset Park enjoys easy access to NYC subway lines, as well as offering innumerable easy opportunities to explore its own borough: Brooklyn, with all the attractions this hip part of the city has to offer. Onsite parking and local and airport transportation are available on request. Rooms are clean and comfortable with reliable Wi-Fi and ergonomic work stations. Rooms from $188. (457 39th St, +1 718 972 0900; wyndhambrooklyn.com)

romantic eras for bar culture. Make sure to not just stay on ground level, The Parlor, a cocktail bar and restaurant upstairs, is where the real action, for this fly at least, happens. (30 Water Street, +1 646 422 7906; deadrabbitnyc.com) HONKY-TONK Skinny Dennis is New York City’s ode to a great Southern phenomenon: the honky-tonk bar. Located in the heart of Williamsburg, Brooklyn, it features 18 cold beers on draft, signature cocktails (try “that coffee drink”), a vintage jukebox and live music a lot of the time, which is mostly, and hardly surprisingly, on the honky-tonk end of the country spectrum. Happy Hour every day from noon-7pm, you won’t find many places similar this side of the Mason-Dixon line. Yee. Har. (152 Metropolitan Ave, +1 212 555 1212; skinnydennisbar.com)

DRINK BASTION The multi-award winning – acquiring a gong for World’s Best Bar, twice – sawdusted The Dead Rabbit, set up by Irish lads Jack McGarry and Sean Muldoon in 2013, is a gamechanging pub in the Financial District that was set up with a view to “bringing the Irish Pub into the 21st century”. Ironically, this was done through the lens of the mid-19th and early 20th centuries, the bar aping those tumultuous and

RITZY The Pool restaurant’s new cocktail lounge in Manhattan, The Pool Lounge, features a handmade bar crafted of mother of pearl and, while sedately luxurious, this is currently the most happening new bar in the city – a blue-tinted aquatic fantasy with plush custom furniture, onyx-and-nickel cocktail tables, rich hand-knotted wall textiles, soaring ceilings and sweeping views, inside the landmark Seagram Building. A one-of-a-kind space in New York – and the world. (The Seagram Building, 99 East 52nd St, +1 212 375 9001; thepoolnewyork.com)

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to NEW YORK JFK and NEWARK, NEW JERSEY multiple times daily.

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Whether you find yourself sleepless in Seattle or dreaming of where to get your next caffeine fix, the Pacific metropolis has character in abundance.



1 Previous spread: The Space Needle observation tower was unveiled in 1962 for the World’s Fair. This May will see the reopening of its SkyCity restaurant – renovations cost an estimated $100 million – complete with the world’s first revolving glass floor at its periphery.




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1 Pommes aplomb – charcuterie and frites at Le Pichet, a French bistro downtown. 2 Well observed – completed in 1914, Smith Tower is the oldest skyscraper in the city and now houses offices, a cocktail bar, restaurant and panoramic viewing platforms. 3 Patio party – modern Mex at Pablo y Pablo, which opened in Wallingford last August.

4 Happy feet – so solid service at Maslow’s in South Lake Union, where FareStart apprenticeships help the homeless get back into the workforce. 5 Dock‘n’roll – day-trippers Brian Elledge and Katie Osgood taking the ferry to Vashon Island. 6 Born in the USA – Starbucks continues to thrive in its founding city, not least at the Reserve Roastery & Tasting Room. 7 Questions & anthers – which blooms to buy at Pike Place Market.


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8 Winging it – flying into Seattle over the vast Puget Sound. 9 In living colour – rainbow crossings on Capitol Hill’s Pike Pine Corridor. 10 Ferris hero – the Seattle Great Wheel on Pier 57 of Elliott Bay. 11 Green fingers – a chartreuse cocktail at Single Shot saloon and restaurant in Capitol Hill. 12 Blooming good – Courtney Robinson offers a warm welcome at Pablo y Pablo.

Fly return to SEATTLE for 50,000 Avios points. Remember, if you don’t have enough points to fly to where you want to go, you can use those that you have and pay the rest in cash*.


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SLEEP CHIC Centrally located across the street from the Pike Place Market, the Thompson Seattle has skyline and waterfront views to die for and an epic location. Many rooms also enjoy the expansive vistas of the Olympic Mountain range and the comings and goings of hourly ferries across Elliott Bay. Rooms are minimally but comfortably designed (with an Alexa in each one to answer any pressing questions) and there’s a lovely turndown service. Raise a sunset cocktail at Nest, the hotel’s year-round rooftop bar, and enjoy. Rooms from $198. (110 Stewart Street, +1 206 623 4600; thompsonhotels.com)

13 Vinyl temptations – Wall of Sound, which specialises in rare grooves. 14 Woo! Tang! Aven Hoerschelmann at Capitol Hill’s JuiceBox, where cold-pressed elixirs rule. 15 Lake placid – Lake Union from the patio of the seafood-acing restaurant Westward.


NORDIC With warm and inviting Scandinavian-meets-Pacific Northwest design – think roaring fires in the lobby, raw pine and midnight-blue hues – Hotel Andra immediately transports a weary traveller to a state of chill. Downstairs at Lola, you can have one of Seattle’s hands-down best breakfasts – the kitchen is commandeered by well-known local chef and restaurateur Tom Douglas. An extra perk is that the hotel is pet friendly. Rooms from $177. (2000 4th Avenue, +1 206 448 8600; hotelandra.com) HISTORIC For a taste of classic Seattle, check into the Sorrento Hotel. Opened in 1909 and built in

Italian Renaissance style, its luxury and elegance hark back to a bygone era. No two guest rooms are alike; the Fireside Room hosts live jazz, poetry readings and afternoon tea, while the inner courtyard garden is a sweet spot for breakfast and, later, cocktails. Rooms from $249. (900 Madison Street, +1 206 622 6400; hotelsorrento.com)

SMART TIPS While Uber and Lyft rides are abundant from within the city, if you’re arriving by air use the Link Light Rail from Sea-Tac Airport to Downtown Seattle as your first mode of transportation. It runs often and at $2.2-$3.25 it’s a steal. soundtransit.org If you happen to be in town on the first Thursday of a month, check out the Seattle Art Walk, which offers a free and easy opportunity to stroll, sip wine, explore galleries, museums and open artists’ studios, while mingling with likeminded wanderers. seattleartists.com

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to SEATTLE four times per week from May 18.

Co-Educational, Church of Ireland Governed, Boarding & Day School.





Experience Boarding at The King’s Hospital

The King’s Hospital in Dublin offers exceptional 5 and 7-day boarding in a comfortable, inclusive and enriching environment, helping your child flourish. With over half our staff living on campus we can offer academic and wellbeing support 24/7 and our acclaimed Weekend Programme is packed with Social, Cultural and Knowledge-based activities.

Boarding really allows you to gain independence and develop your individuality” Tom Cole Head Boy

The King’s Hospital offers them a good education along with a range of after school activities” Hilary Davis Parent

Experience the school for yourself with a guided tour. Contact our Admissions Team today. Some 2018/2019 Form 1 & Mid-Stream boarding places still available. T: E: W: A:

+353 1 643 6564 khadmissions@thekingshospital.ie www.kingshospital.ie Brooklawn, Palmerstown, Dublin 20

Find us on

Private Dining | Weddings | Corporate Events

lunch | early bird | dinner | private dining

25fitzwilliamplace.ie | info@fitzwilliamplace.ie @25fitwilliampl | +353 1 669 4646 25 Fitzwilliam Place, Dublin 2

sueseystreet.ie | info@sueseystreet.ie @Sueseystreet | +353 1 669 4600 26 Fitzwilliam place, dublin 2


Spa towns


Take the waters at some of our favourite thermal hotspots, says Yvonne Gordon.

BADEN BEI WIEN, AUSTRIA The name Baden bei Wien, which means “baths near Vienna”, gives it away – this pretty town in the Vienna Woods is home to 13 hot springs, ranging from 22°c to 36°c, and people have been flocking to heal and relax in these sulphurous mineral springs for centuries. Have a splash at the Roman-style spa Römertherme, which has all sorts of watery delights from a sports pool, outdoor pool and a hot sulphur bath, to saunas, steam baths, massages and fitness classes. In summer, soak

in the pools and sulphur baths at Thermalstrandbad, above, which has a sandy beach, and then put your head down at At the Park Hotel. Rooms from €120. atthepark.at

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Vienna up to nine times per week.


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Budapest is famous for its thermal springs and the crown jewel is Széchenyi Baths, where you might drop in for an hour and end up staying all day – and for so many reasons, from the beautiful Neo-Baroque palace setting to the sundrenched outdoor pools. The curative thermal waters are mineral-rich, so start with the 11 indoor pools – they range from 28°c to 40°c with two cooling ones – before hitting the outdoor leisure pools. The more mature visitors play chess but the less mature will love the lazy river. There are also steam rooms, hot tubs, a restaurant and treatments, such as massages. If you can manage to drag yourself away, check into Hotel Gellért, adjacent to the beautiful Gellért Baths. Rooms from €115. danubiushotels.com

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Budapest up to four times per week.

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DISCOVER ASHFORD CASTLE THIS SPRING After a day exploring a wealth of springtime activities and the beautiful landscaped gardens of the Ashford Estate, retreat to the award-winning Spa overlooking Lake Corrib. Relax with a signature treatment, before discovering delicious seasonal Irish cuisine at Cullens at the Cottage. Voted Best of the Best in the World – Virtuoso





One of Europe’s oldest spa towns, Wiesbaden has 14 hot springs, which are as popular for spa and beauty treatments as they are for treating specialised medical conditions, particularly of the rheumatic and orthopaedic variety. At KaiserFriedrich-Therme, the (mostly nude) Irish-Roman bath, there’s everything from thermal pools, steam baths and saunas to tepidariums and

sanariums to tempt and revitalise you, while over at Thermalbad Aukammtal, get your circulation going in alternating hot and cold baths, before relaxing in the huge bathing area. Tuck up for the night at Hotel Nassauer Hof – which also has a thermal pool and beauty spa in the unlikely event that you still have any tense muscles left to soothe. Rooms from €205. nassauer-hof.de

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Frankfurt twice daily.


This secret corner of southern Tuscany is bubbling with hot waters known for their healing powers since ancient times – and seeing as it was the Romans who first built baths over hot springs to make them into social centres, if anyone knows how to do spa towns it’s the Italians. At Cascate del Mulino, just outside town, the waters cascade down the hill into a series of terraced pools, making a fun, natural spa (free entry) with sulphury waters at a constant 37°c temperature. If you decide you need some luxury while “taking the waters”, check in to Terme di Saturnia Spa and Golf Resort for hot spring pools, thermal mud treatments and relaxing spa treatments. Rooms from €350. termedisaturnia.it

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Pisa up to three times per week from May 2.

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the ca stle | t he lodge | t he old stable mews

A rural retreat in the heart of Ireland…


estled on 1,000 acres of undulating Irish countryside, dotted with ancient woodland and glittering lakes, Castle Leslie Estate is one of the last great Irish estates still in the hands of its founding family. Steeped in history, full of character and charm, it is the ultimate Irish rural escape.

Only 80 minutes from Dublin and 60 minutes from Belfast, Castle Leslie Estate boasts a variety of accommodation and activities to suit all tastes. The Castle, at the heart of the Estate, offers original interiors with old style hospitality and provides a complete respite from the world. The Lodge is the social hub of the Estate, a country house boutique hotel that brings locals and guests together in an atmosphere of conviviality and comfort. The Old Stable Mews and Village Cottages are the perfect spot for groups that want the convenience of hotel living combined with private luxury home rental.

Castle Leslie Estate offers an idyllic setting for outdoor activity and adventure. Explore the Estate on horseback, enjoy some of Ireland’s finest coarse fishing, take in a movie at our private cinema, luxuriate in a relaxing massage in the Victorian treatment rooms, exhilarate in a abundance of outdoor adventures, or just borrow a pair of wellies from our boot room and go for a stroll on our 1,000 acres – just some of the choices that await you in this hidden corner of Ireland.

An Overnight Escape to include a wonderful 5 course dinner in the 2 AA Rosette award winning Snaffles Restaurant and a hearty full Irish breakfast starts from €140 per person sharing

Castle Leslie Estate, Glaslough, Monaghan

t: + 353 47 88 100





In Britain, taking the waters of hot and cold mineral springs as a health retreat became fashionable from the Middle Ages right through to the Georgian and Victorian eras, with entire towns springing up around them. The most wellknown is of course Bath, but the spa waters of Harrogate with their sulphur and iron-rich contents attracted many wealthy northern visitors and even European royal families. Follow the ritual of heating, cooling and cleansing in the different temperature chambers at the Royal Turkish Baths, where you can luxuriate in Moorish and Italian-inspired interiors, or unwind in the hydrotherapy rooftop pool at Rudding Park Spa, which uses mineral spring water from Rudding Park and – handily – is also a luxury hotel. Rooms from £203. ruddingpark.co.uk

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Leeds up to 13 times per week.

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The perfect environment to experience native, simple, Irish produce.

“The food itself, which champions epicurean standards in flavor and presentation, featuring robust ingredients meticulously composed” - New York Times “McGrath has put flashes of brilliance into his new venture.” - The Irish Times

Fade St Social, 4-6 Fade St, Dublin 2 T:01 6040066 fadestreetsocial.com

17 South Great, Georges Street T: 01 707 9596 rusticstone.ie

Experience Dylan McGrath’s latest adventure, hailed by critics and completely unique to Dublin. Explore an extensive menu of Japanese dishes with a South American influence.


Taste at Bonsai 17 South Great George’s St, Dublin 2, Ireland Tel: +353 (01) 526 7701 tasteatrustic.com





VENICE Lauren Heskin goes for the Biennale and stays for the delicious dining and gregarious drinking.

Don't miss . .

LOFTY For a bird’s-eye view of Venice’s watery footprint (and to figure out exactly where the Ponte dell’Accademia bridge is), head to the luxury department store T Fondaco dei Tedeschi, by the Rialto bridge. Make your way up the escalators – and be sure to ogle the wares at Prada, Gucci, Versace and Dolce & Gabbana on the way up – to the rooftop terrace to see the Grand Canal curve around the city. (Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi, +39 041 314 2000; dfs.com)

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to VENICE up to eight times per week.

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Drink at . .

DILLY-DALLY Venetians tend to have their merriment during the afternoon and, usually, standing up. So, if you see a crowd of Italians loitering in a piazza drinking wine, they’re probably not at a wedding. There’s likely a baraco nearby, such as Al Mercà – a tiny kiosk serving regional wines by the glass and an excellent Aperol spritz. And Italians are just always that well-dressed. (Campo Bella Vienna, +39 346 834 0660)


DESIGN The Venetian calendar revolves around the Venice Biennale. Alternating between art (odd years) and architecture (even), the latter runs from May 26 to November 25 this year, as piazzas and exhibition spaces swell with screenings, showcases, talks and visitors from around the world. Curated for the first time by Yvonne Farrell and Shelley McNamara of Dublin-based Grafton Architects – see page 120 – this year’s 16th international exhibition is an unmissable spectacle of contemporary architecture, culture and design. labiennale.org

Top, bella Venezia – there’s always a beautiful view to be found in Venice. Above, one of the many exquisite locations for the Biennale Architettura. Left, regatta fun at the Vogalonga Race.

OARSOME Begun as a protest regatta to draw attention to the damage done by engine-powered boats in the 1970s, the Vogalonga race is now more of a celebration of Venice’s maritime history and traditional gondolas. The 44th edition will begin on the morning of May 20, as more than 1,000 entrants row the 30 kilometres around the islands, finishing at San Marco Square. vogalonga.com

GRAZE MATTER Come dusk, gregarious Italians mingle in the narrow lane outside the no-frills Barcaro da Fiore, just off Campo Santo Stefano, to drink wine and eat small plates (or cicchetti) of fried squid, olives and cheese. With little English and a local crowd, pick your small-plate bites and a glass of the local red at the bar and then perch yourself outside at the wooden counter and expect to stay for more. (Calle de le Boteghe, +39 041 523 5310; dafiore.it) TERROIR VISION If seats are a necessity and wine is your tipple of choice, then make a booking at Teamo Wine Bar. Passionate about vino from the region, owners Clara and Stefano host tastings every few weeks and are happy to have their brains picked on the best Veneto varieties. And, if you’re feeling peckish, the kitchen serves up delicious, winepaired dishes. (Calle Rio Terrà de la Mandola, +39 041 528 3787; teamowinebar.com)

Sleep at . .

SPENDTHRIFT Anchored on the Grand Canal, the imposing 16thcentury Palazzo Papadopoli was once home to Venetian painter Tiepolo, whose ornate frescoes still adorn the main walls. Opened as the Aman Venice hotel in 2013, it remains the home of Papadopoli’s descendants (they live on the top floor) and the small number of rooms, hidden entrance and secluded gardens mean it still has the impression of a private home, albeit on a rather grandiose scale, and with an excellent Asian restaurant. Rooms from €1,150. (Calle Tiepolo 1364, +39 041 270 7333; aman.com)

BOHO Dodge out of the crowds in San Marco Square and into the peaceful courtyard of Novecento Boutique Hotel. More like a rugged Italian farmhouse than the usual gilded Venice haunts, this small, family-run hotel has only nine rooms and is about as bohemian as the city gets with rough walls, earthy tones and sinkable seats. Make time for a quiet coffee in the verdant courtyard. Rooms from €448 for minimum two nights. (Calle del Dose da Ponte, +39 041 241 3765; novecento.biz)

ACE OF BASE Excellently located in the heart of the old city, the recently renovated self-catering Ca’ Nal Apartments make the ideal base for a few days’ exploring. Some have unexpected frescoes on the ceiling, while the “Pupparin” also has a rooftop terrace, an ideal spot to pop the Prosecco (named after a nearby village where the grape originated) for an Aperol spritz sundowner. From €120 per night/from €750 per week. (Ponte dei Bareteri, +39 335 695 6153; canalapartments.it)

Clockwise from top right, bright and spacious rooms at The Aman Venice; self-catering comforts at the Ca’ Nal Apartments; delicious takeaway treats from Farini; Aperol spritz are always a sì when in Italy.

Eat at . .

GRAB & GO This is Italy, so every chef in Venice worth their passata can throw up a perfect pizza base but for buttery breakfast pastries and an on-the-go slice, head to Farini. It also serves up fresh, rectangular pizza from the open kitchen (a New York-sized slice is about €3) so you can sit inside or take it to go and find a sunny spot in the small square. (Calle Seconda de la Fava, +39 041 241 1899; farini.com) DECEPTIVE L’Osteria di Santa Marina – a small cluster of dining rooms off a quiet square near the Rialto bridge – might have the appearance of a quaint, family-run business, but there is nothing simplistic about the flavours of this Michelin-starred spot. With an à la carte menu brimming with fresh seafood options and two tasting menus – one seasonal, one Venetian – you won’t go wrong, nor with the wine list. (Campo Santa Marina, +39 041 528 5239; osteriadisantamarina.com) FINE OUTLOOK In the Ca’ Giustinian, the headquarters of the Biennale, the small L’Ombra del Leone café offers spectacular views over the canal without the hefty price tag of so many waterfront places. An excellent spot for an early lunch, grab a seat on the terrace if you can and tuck into salad and sandwiches overlooking the Punta della Dogana and Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute. They also do a killer bellini with fresh peaches. When in Venice … (Calle Tredici Martiri, +39 041 241 3519)


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Timesless values Innovative thinking A stunning steel and glass exoskeleton now surrounds and encases the beautiful old Scots Presbyterian church on Dublin’s Abbey Street, turning the heads of passers-by. The corporate HQ development is just the latest commercial building in Collen Construction’s impressive portfolio. David Lee, Construction Director at the company, is immensely proud of a building that cannot fail to catch the eye. The distinctive red Collen crane will soon disappear, allowing the building to shine, taking its place in the fast-changing panorama of Dublin’s Liffey quays. The breathtaking building perfectly illustrates the happy marriage of timeless values and innovative thinking that has made Collen Construction one of the most successful Irish contracting companies today. In his role, David is responsible for the safe delivery of the many and varied construction projects undertaken by the 208 year- old family-owned company - in Ireland and across Europe. There are certain key principles that never change for David: “My role is all about ensuring safety, delivering the very best quality and finishing projects on time and as costed.” In David’s job there is never a dull moment. Every construction project is different. The Abbey Street project presented a range of challenges: a busy city centre location, an adjacent live tram line, not to mention the building’s stunning but unusual design.

Every piece of the exoskeleton, imported specially from Turkey, had to be fitted to perfection for the overall vision to come to life. Meanwhile, the protected structure it now surrounds was lovingly restored.

“It was an unusual and challenging project. But for all of us on the team it has been a brilliant, exciting building to work on.” And the sparkling structure in Abbey Street is just one of a whole range of innovative and diverse projects that David oversees in his role as Construction Director. Across town, in Cork Street, Collen is building the high-quality Brickfield Lane student accommodation development. In Blackrock it is delivering a stunning transformation of the Frascati Shopping Centre that promises, along with an adjacent Collen commercial project, to reimagine the area. Collen is also building two stunning office developments in Central

Park and Leopardstown. Key pharmaceutical and logistics projects ensure the company is at the heart of Ireland’s economic recovery, not to mention a series of major data centres for one of the world’s biggest tech companies at a number of strategic locations around the city, as well as in Sweden and Germany. It all adds up to an exciting and busy daily agenda for David who began his career as an apprentice carpenter 27 years ago and progressed steadily from there. Collen Construction is a launch partner for ISO 45001, the first international standard for health and safety in the workplace, recently launched in Ireland by the National Standards Authority of Ireland. “We pride ourselves on what we have achieved in the area of health and safety, but we are always looking to reach and out-perform new standards,” says David. “Mindfulness in the workplace has become a key health and safety tool for the company” he adds. Taking such a hands-on approach is very much part of the Collen family ethos and comes naturally to a business where eight generations of the Collen family has now worked. “This incredible longevity manifests itself in the fact that the company is not merely interested in short term gains but prioritises long term goals for the people who work here and for the clients we serve,” says David. Clients understand what they are getting when they sign up with Collen, be it for a big or a small job, he says. For David it all comes down to one thing: “Our business is built on trust.”

Abbey Street, Office Development

30-32 Molesworth Street

ESB Office Fit-Out

UCD Ashfield Student Accommodation

Block H, Central Park

IRELAND UK GERMANY SWEDEN Head Office: River House East Wall Road Dublin 3 Ireland +353 1 8745411 www.collen.com


Making travel work for you

Phil a d el phia


FLY, PHILLY, FLY Philadelphia is undergoing an urban renaissance and exciting culinary explosion, discovers Thomas Breathnach.


A DAY IN THE LIFE Node founder and CEO Anil Kera offers a snapshot into curating community residences across the globe.


LOEW’S SEATTLE, ETC Yvonne Gordon explores Loew’s hotel group’s latest venture in Seattle and new spots in Dublin, Palma and Silicon Valley.


SIX THINGS I’VE LEARNT Grafton Architects’ Yvonne Farrell and Shelley McNamara share both their wisdom and favourite haunts in Venice.


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ome to six million Eagles fans, its own stock exchange and the HQ to billboard brands from Campbell’s to Comcast, Philadelphia’s powerhouse economy ranks as a top ten global player. The stats? In 2017, city construction skyrocketed by nine per cent, local universities produced 90,000 fresh graduates and, for the first time in a quarter of a century, Philadelphia exceeded New York City’s job growth rate. The result for business travellers is being able to witness this urban renaissance in glorious real time. From the bonneted Amish bakers in Reading Terminal Market to the startup set of trendy Fishtown, there’s PA pride in the air here. That’s not before time. Long lost in a Mid-Atlantic drift between its East Coast neighbours, today Philly offers a city experience that’s more grounded than New York and less buttoned-up than Boston. And everybody wants in. Tourism numbers are at record levels while Philly’s millennial influx is growing faster than in any other US city. That means an exciting explosion of food-trucks, cafés, galleries, Whole Foods Markets and Michelin stars. If February’s Super Bowl victory didn’t bring the point across the line: Philadelphia’s getting a taste for winning.


CLASSIC Stephen Starr is synonymous with Philly’s hot restaurant scene and the ritzy steakhouse, Butcher & Singer, right, is arguably his star. This 1930s-inspired chophouse offers a Hollywood heyday backdrop to its sublime menu of rib eyes and ryes. On a business lunch? The daytimeonly Butcher Burger already vaunts cult status. (1500 Walnut Street, +1 215 732 4444; butcherandsinger.com)

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TRENDING Tacos are surely the new pulled pork in posthipster food trends and you’ll find Philadelphia’s finest at Mission Taqueria. This Mexican cantina is a courtyard oasis meets flower-power beer garden, with religious kitsch and foosball tables. Spicy margaritas and pineapplehabanero chicken wings make Happy Hour here bonito. (1516 Sansom Street, +1 215 383 1200; missiontaqueria.com)

ICON Few other city specialities have gone global like the Philly cheesesteak. Variations differ block to block – none more so than the vegan edition at Blackbird Pizzeria. Based on rosemary and garlic seared seitan, grilled diced onions and vegan cheese whiz, consider this herbivore heaven in a hoagie roll. (507 South 6th Street, +1 215 625 6660; blackbirdpizzeria.com)


FLY, PHILLY,FLY The birthplace of the American Constitution remains a hive of commercial activity, finds Thomas Breathnach.

ARRIVALS Philly’s regional train line, SEPTA, provides the quickest downtown transit from Philadelphia International Airport. Its new Quick Trip function allows travellers to buy cheaper tickets from credit-cardfriendly kiosks at the terminals, saving passengers from any cash search upon arrival. Fares cost $6.75 one way. septa.org MEET UP It’s only fitting that the birthplace of the nation should incubate a vibrant startup scene. To cast your social network, check out Philly Startup Leaders, a 4,000-plus business community, which regularly hosts networking gatherings across the city, from think tanks to innovation picnics. phillystartupleaders.org

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to PHILADELPHIA up to seven times per week.


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DESIGN Located in the oh-sohipster Fishtown neighbourhood, just northeast of Downtown, Wm Mulherin’s Sons is a former whiskey factory turned design hotel haven. Flirting with Airbnb trends, the hotel’s suites see loft-style habitats melding a neat combo of luxe and living. Think king beds, kitchenettes and homely touches such as cacti, without the watering woes. Rooms from $350. (1355 North Front Street; +1 215 291 1355; wmmulherinssons.com)


HISTORIC Rittenhouse Square’s trendy brownstones rank as Philly’s most envied properties, which makes checking-into the Dwight D all the more top-drawer. The 19th-century boutique townhouse hotel has eight rooms where plush, moody designs show their softer side with rain showers, luxury robes and Bulgari fancies. Rooms from $200. (256 South 16th Street, +1 215 772 1901; thedwightd.com)

SOCIAL Housed in the iconic 1920s Architects Building, Philadelphia’s Downtown Kimpton Hotel Palomar is an Art Deco Eden. Come work, room desk-spaces are fit for a Mad Men exec; come relaxation, deep bath-tubs soak up skyline views. Fancy mingling? Every evening there’s a complimentary wine hour. Rooms from $295. (117 South 17th Street, +1 215 563 5006; hotelpalomar-philadelphia.com)

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Building the present, creating the future Delivering construction solutions, within budget and on time, for: · FDI Hi-Tech Facilities · Healthcare Facilities · Commercial Offices · Biopharma · Pharmaceutical · Cleanrooms · Agri/ Dairy Food · Fit-out · Infrastructure · PPP Investment And FM Services


Building in Ireland for 60 years; it’s in our DNA



Originally from Chicago, Nick Bayer, 39, moved to Philadelphia ten years ago with a vision to create a brand with a purpose. Today, he’s founder and CEO of Saxbys, a booming East Coast coffee chain with an earthy community edge.

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What’s your favourite Downtime activity in Philadelphia? Getting outdoors. Even though Philly is such a big, dense city, we’ve an abundance of green spaces. There’s the new Schuylkill River Trail (schuylkillrivertrail.com), which runs for 25 miles all the way to Valley Forge National Historical Park. I love to walk, run, or ride my bike there – it’s an incredible way to have the city at your fingertips, while surrounded by nature. And you probably know where to find the best coffee … Well, when visiting Downtown, stop by our very own Saxbys (1800 Chestnut Street, +1 267 886 8215; saxbyscoffee.com) and be sure to order “The Cure”. It’s our smooth espresso – pulled from one of the only Mod Bar espresso machines in the region – with coconut water. That’s a really refreshing pickme-up. We’re a social impact company, in our heart, too. For example, we favour direct trade rather than fair trade with our coffee farmers. So you know that more of your dollar goes back into communities than, maybe, anywhere else.

Above, Nick Bayer favours direct trade with farmers for his Saxby’s coffee company. Left, Yo, Adrian – Philly has an abundance of green space, including Spring Garden and, below, delicious bites at Vernick restaurant in Rittenhouse Square.

Fly return to Philadelphia from Dublin for 40,000 Avios points. Remember, if you don’t have enough points to fly to where you want to go, you can use those that you have and pay the rest in cash*.


Where are your top spots to take clients? I always love to bring people to Vernick (2031 Walnut Street, +1 267 639 6644; vernickphilly.com) in Rittenhouse Square. It’s your quintessential neighbourhood restaurant that’s now enjoying national acclaim. I think its success is equal parts exceptional American cuisine (my go-to is the Maryland crab on toast and the dry-aged, bone-in strip loin) and incredible, upbeat hospitality. It basically feels like your dining room on its best day. For lunch, El Rey (2013 Chestnut Street, +1 215 563 3330; elreyrestaurant. com) is an awesome, purposefully hole-in-the-wall spot. They do great enchiladas and margaritas – it’s actually close to my office, so we love their Happy Hour. Plus, my son is obsessed with their tacos, so I find myself going there all the time. To impress at dinner, I adore Zahav (237 Saint James Place, +1 215 625 8800, zahavrestaurant.com), which has been lauded as the best Israeli restaurant in the world. Chef and owner Michael Solomonov has just won the national James Beard Award for Outstanding Chef, which is pretty much the culinary Oscars. Dishes such as the fried cauliflower, mushroom schnitzel and branzino are out of this world. It may take an incredibly long time to get a reservation but it’s absolutely worth it.

How do you get around? The greatest thing is that there’s no other major American city more walkable than Philadelphia. I know there’s always so much going on across the city but a lot of that centres on Walnut Street, between the Delaware and Schuylkill rivers. So, from the Liberty Bell, to the best new hotels and coolest restaurants, to the Rocky statue – you pretty much find all of that within 30 blocks – and it’s flat. We’ve a great public transport system, too, but if you’re staying in the city centre, chances are you’ll never even need to use it.


What makes doing business in Philadelphia unique? Philadelphia is a huge city that seems to sprawl in every direction – we’ve leading industries in everything from pharmaceutical to tech and education. But there’s a connectivity, a level of cooperation and a desire to help one another that gives Philly that small village feel. People really do root for you here.



A DAY IN THE LIFE Anil Khera is the founder and CEO of Node (node-living.com), which offers high-spec co-living residences in London, Brooklyn, LA, Manchester – and now Dublin, where its new 51-bed property is set to lure sociable creatives and entrepreneurs to Fitzwilliam Square. Khera was formerly the MD of Blackstone, the world’s largest private equity real estate firm. 7am Breakfast with our two-year-old son and then hop onto a red double-decker bus to our London office in Mayfair. I use the commute to catch up on news and a flurry of emails from our team of 20 across the globe – and catch a glimpse of Hyde Park on the way. 10am Call with our Dublin community curator Ava to discuss collaborations with local Irish artists for a pop-up exhibition in our Fitzwilliam Square building, the first co-living residence in Ireland. It’s a great way to connect our residents, who come from all over the world, with the local Dublin arts scene. Noon Head to local favourite Mount Street Deli for a lunch meeting with our London team to discuss opportunities for further Node expansion in Berlin, Amsterdam and Lisbon. We are looking for “diamonds in the rough” – historical buildings with character that we can retro-fit and bring back to glory with a fun, modern twist and, of course, superfast Wi-Fi. 2pm Video conference with our New York team to discuss local charity sponsorships. Every year we and our residents pick a preferred charity to support and showcase in each of our Node cities. Last year we supported the tenth annual Bushwick Film Festival, a grassroots, Brooklynbased, indie festival.

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3pm Discussion with our Canadian team in Toronto about a prop-tech company proposal. We are constantly evolving our global tech platform to create an end-to-end digital ecosystem for our residents, so that they can apply, sign a lease, pay rent, raise maintenance issues, find out about events and meet other Node residents around the globe – all on their smartphones. 5pm Call with our Los Angeles architects to review interior design ideas for our latest projects. These include the restoration of a 1900s California-style “bungalow court” community – small detached homes that share outdoor communal areas and one of only 350 left in the city that are unfortunately on the verge of extinction. 6pm Review financing proposals from potential construction lenders for our planned Seattle residence. Our preference is to work with local banking institutions, to get further involved in the business communities where we operate. 7pm Fundraising meeting for The Lighthouse Building, the development of a new multidimensional, church-based, community centre project in North London that I chair. We plan for this innovative building to be a base for local charity partners, such as XLP and Spear, who do transformational work with inner-city youth.

TORONTO My hometown, where half of the city’s residents were born abroad and is the most multicultural metropolis in the world, with more than 200 ethnic groups and 140 languages spoken. We spend three months a year here and enjoy the distinct seasons. Our favourite family activity is walking through the city’s extensive ravines to Evergreen Brick Works, a former 1900s quarry that’s now an environmentally focused community and cultural centre.

SEATTLE It’s amazing to visit this techcentric, nature-loving, coffee-sipping city. The 360-degree views of the Space Needle, tranquil waters of Elliott Bay and snowy peaks of Mount Rainier are hard to beat. I always enjoy a farm-to-table dinner at Grappa in Queen Anne, an historic, closeknit neighbourhood just north of Downtown.

LOS ANGELES When I need a break from grey London or wintery Toronto, there are few better trips than one to the Sunshine State. I started my career in LA, so it’s always fun to visit old colleagues and friends. I love renting a convertible and driving down the Pacific Coast Highway then grabbing a taco in hipster-centric Echo Park, followed by sunset drinks by the pier in Manhattan Beach.

Visit Dublin’s

Multi Award Winning Restaurant & Lounge

FIRE Restaurant and Lounge is the most historical and impressive dining room in Dublin. FIRE’s menu focuses on utilising fresh in-season, local produce to create award winning dishes, bursting with flavour from its famous Wood-Fired Tiger Prawn to its Hereford

SOLE Seafood & Grill encapsulates the true taste of Ireland in the heart of Dublin, offering the best locally sourced seafood and beef plus International specialities. A restaurant like no other; the chic interior is complemented by a stylish bar and tasteful food and drinks menu.

Prime Irish fillet steak.

Enjoy a warm Irish welcome at SOLE Seafood & Grill where the pleasure of fine wine and great food meets.

The Mansion House, Dawson Street, Dublin 2, D02 XK40.

18 – 19 South William Street, Dublin 2, D02 KV76.

T +353 (0) 1 676 7200 E FIRE@mansionhouse.ie

T +353 (0) 1 544 2300 E reservations@sole.ie

W www.firerestaurant.ie

W www.sole.ie

FIRE Opening Hours:

SOLE Opening Hours:

Monday – Friday from 5pm, Saturday from 3pm, Sunday from 1pm.

Monday – Thursday from 5pm, Friday and Saturday from 12pm.

Business Hotel

Sound as a DOLLAR

Loews Seattle has unveiled a revamp that mixes maritime influences with aplomb, writes Yvonne Gordon.


ater babies will love the new corner suites at Loews Hotel 1000 in Seattle, with views out to Elliott Bay and Puget Sound. The “Grand Corner Water View Suite” is just one of 120 reimagined roomtypes at the hotel, which has just undergone a multi-million-dollar revamp. The palette of natural colours – soft greys, rich greens and rose – reflects the surrounds of the city and colours of the Pacific Northwest. The Downtown hotel is right at the centre of the action, at the intersection of First Avenue and Madison Street, just a few steps from the busy Waterfront and the business district. It’s also near Pike Place Market, Seattle Art Museum and the lively Pioneer Square. Keeping with the maritime theme, the hotel’s brand new All Water Seafood & Oyster Bar, on the site of what was a tackle and bait shop in 1936, serves the freshest

produce from Pike Place Market. The hotel is keen on featuring local flavours and suppliers, with dishes such as wild garlic and pepper keta smoked salmon from Jensen’s Old Fashioned Smokehouse. Or tuck into pumpernickel bread from Grand Central Baking Company, or a specialty espresso from Storyville Coffee. Bell Lounge is a luxurious space where you can relax beside the black marble fireplace and try one of the artisan cocktails, curated from craft distilleries, while wine buffs will be interested in the wine cellar’s collection of Washington wines. End any day soaking in your room’s freestanding bath, which fills from the ceiling – perfect for easing post-business meeting stresses. Rooms from $255. (1000 1st Avenue, +1 206 957 1000; loewshotels.com)


DUBLIN Just two minutes’ walk from Merrion Square, The Alex definitely ticks the convenient location box for both the city centre and docklands. The former Alexander has shortened its name but has definitely added to its style, with a funky, informal work space in the lobby and a bright, working-lunchable restaurant. Fuelup at Steam café with coffee from Dublin micro-roastery Cloud Picker, before hitting the city. Rooms from €200. (41-47 Fenian Street, 01 607 3900; thealexdublin.ie) 118 |


PALMA Hotel Mamá brings four floors of luxury to the interior of a restored 19th-century building on Plaza de Cort in Palma de Mallorca’s historic quarter. Interiors are by celebrated Parisian designer Jacques Grange, with tailor-made furniture and a snazzy contemporary art collection. The elegant space also boasts a spa, private cinema, rooftop pool and a Japanese restaurant. Rooms from €252. (Plaza de Cort, +34 871 037 437; hotelmama.es)

SILICON VALLEY Base yourself at the shiny new Hotel Nia for your next visit to Silicon Valley. Set in Menlo Park Gateway, near Facebook HQ, there are 250 rooms encased within an 11-story gleaming glass exterior. Inside, rooms boast floor-to-ceiling windows and oversized desks, while a pool scene with live music and afternoon lawn games provide fun post-work unplugging opportunities. Rooms from $400. (200 Independence Drive, Menlo Park, +1 650 900 3434; hotelnia.com)

MAKE LASTING MEMORIES AT THE K CLUB Kids Stay Free when sharing with parents

Make it a trip of a lifetime with luxurious family friendly accommodation, dining to suit everyone and wonderful experiences they won’t easily forget. Activities include falconry, fishing, horse riding, golf & so much more. BOOK YOUR NEXT FAMILY EXPERIENCE NOW. Contact Reservations at: +353 (0) 1 601 7200 E: sales@kclub.ie | Web: www.kclub.ie




YVONNE FARRELL and SHELLEY McNAMARA, directors of Dublin’s multi-award-winning Grafton Architects, are the curators of this year’s La Biennale di Venezia, May 26 to November 25. “Freespace” is their theme for the 16th International Architecture Exhibition. labiennale.org / graftonarchitects.ie


Replenish creative energy As with physical energy, creative energy needs to be replenished and cared for. We find sustenance through reading a paragraph of inspirational writing, such as Watermark: An Essay on Venice by Joseph Brodsky, through engrossing ourselves in a wonderful film such as Pat Collins’ Song of Granite. Visiting buildings, new or old, that move us is always a joy and a source of inspiration and encouragement. We never cease to learn new things, big and small, from such visits.


Capitalise on serendipity We often don’t know what to do at the beginning of a project and sometimes discover things by complete accident. An image in a postcard on the wall, maybe for weeks, suddenly comes to the foreground as a possible way to progress. Turning a drawing or a model upside down, or sideways, sometimes reveals an opportunity. We leave ourselves

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open to these fortuitous incidents, which, combined with more structured searching, can enrich and lift a design.


Make space to grow and change We are incurably curious and open to new influences and new experiences. Architecture is an all-embracing discipline: there is nothing that is not relevant. In order to grow we need to be challenged, to know how to hold our nerve, to take risks, to push boundaries. We are lucky to work regularly in situations that are both stimulating and challenging, always stretching our abilities – our thinking – energising us in our ambition to create better buildings, which is the main purpose of all our activities.


Surround yourself with talented people We are surrounded in our office by talented, passionate, opinionated, strongwilled architects who share the

ups and the downs with us and who make the production of architecture possible. Working with people that you respect is really important. Listening to other points of view means that we are continually learning how to see the world through other people’s eyes. Imagining as an architect is an act of interpreting on behalf of others.

Yvonne & Shelley’s



Mind the Earth When we think about what is happening to the world around us, we see more and more of the natural world disappearing. That means what we do as architects actually builds the world we live in now and in the future. Globally, it is possible to think of all this building as geography – not as stand-alone objects – but as modified Earth. We use the term “Architecture as new Geography” in an effort to try to understand the impact of all this building. Even the smallest project adds something extra onto the Earth’s crust and changes people’s lives.


Look for beauty It is a good thing to look for beauty in even the smallest things, but especially in nature around us. Each season has its own particular characteristics to be enjoyed. It would be great if there was an item on the news headlines announcing that snowdrops have come into bloom! Being able to anchor ourselves in wherever we are, is reinvigorating. Just listening to bird-song, even on Grafton Street, when you stop and take the time to listen.

DESTINATION South American architect Paulo Mendes da Rocha describes Venice as “the capital of the imagined world”. Because of the water, light is reflected in a completely different way. This, combined with the lack of cars, puts you in a completely different relationship with the city.

STAY Hotel Danieli is uniquely beautiful. One can, even as a nonresident, have breakfast on the terrace overlooking the Lagoon, which is wonderful. The interior is dark and mysterious with rich floor surfaces, panelled-wood walls and meandering corridors. danielihotelvenice.com

EAT A colleague took us to Trattoria Antico Calice on Calle dei Stagneri, which was wonderful. The name means “the ancient cup” and it’s where local workers, such as gondoliers, go for lunch. The food was simple but very good and it was a pleasure to be dining alongside Venetians. anticocalice.it

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Venice up to eight times per week.



UPLIFTING STORY Forklift trucks do not readily spring to mind when you think of all the good things to come out of Ireland, but when Martin McVicar, at the age of 26, founded Combilift in 1998 with Robert Moffett, he had ambitions to put Ireland and his home town of Monaghan on the map. Almost 40,000 of Combilift’s ingenious machines are working around the world, lifting and moving loads as diverse as building materials, aircraft wings, cosmetics and even mushrooms. As the company’s new €46m factory prepares to open this month, we find out why Martin is staying close to home whilst also travelling the world in pursuit of even more business opportunities.

You export to over 75 countries. Have you visited all of them? I’ve been to at least 60 of our export markets including all BRIC countries. I regularly visit UK, USA and Germany, our three largest export markets, however, we value the business we receive from remote markets such as New Caledonia, Barbados, Trinidad and Tobago, etc. Thankfully, many of our customers also visit us in Ireland. How did you achieve such an impressive global market? Firstly, by investing heavily in R&D, which we still do, and by listening to our clients we develop innovative products. Combilift are known as the go-to manufacturer for space saving, safer product handling equipment. Then it came down to tenacity, hard work and a lot of travelling. Being unique in

the marketplace and offering to customise trucks to meet clients’ needs gave us a great advantage from the start and was the bedrock for our massive growth. We have a team of inhouse engineers who provide free warehouse layout designs for our clients. This makes it very easy for them to see the value our products can bring. Have you ever thought of moving manufacturing elsewhere? Not at all. When you see the investment we have put into our new production facility in Monaghan you can believe we are here to stay. Robert and myself have deep family roots in Monaghan, as do most of our employees, and we have a great pool of talent in the area. You can’t beat the quality of life here, and we are in a good strategic location for shipping our products anywhere in the world.


Traditional Irish Bars,


Dining & Accommodation

O S J


Fáilte Approved


Temple Bar, Dublin



iFi W e e r F -




58 -59 Fleet Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 Tel: +353 (0)1 6711 822 email: info@gogartys.ie VISIT WWW.GOGARTYS.IE FOR ACCOMMODATION AND EVENTS






Inflight Sit back, relax and let Aer Lingus look after your inflight comfort and entertainment. Enjoy delicious food, the latest box office movie releases, a wide range of shopping and news from Aer Lingus.

Flying with Aer Lingus 124 Welcome On Board 126 Your Comfort and Safety 140 Flight Connections 142 Our Route Networks 146 Connecting to Wi-Fi Inflight Entertainment 130 Box Office Movies 132 Movie Classics 134 TV Shows 136 Boxsets 138 Music & Radio


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Welcome On Board Flying with Aer Lingus means you will experience excellent customer service, comfort and, of course, safety. There’s plenty for you to enjoy on board and, on the following pages, you will discover how we’ll be taking care of you. If you have any special requests, be sure to let us know. After all, we’re here to help you make the most of your flight.

In touch with Aer Lingus If you are availing of Wi-Fi on your flight today, why not let us know what you’re up to on board and where you are going. Take a photo and post it to our Facebook page. Let us know how you’re enjoying your flight on Snapchat or Instagram. Chat to us on Twitter where you’ll also find the latest flight information. View our videos of milestone events, festivals, sponsorships and campaigns on YouTube.

Why not try spea king a few words of the native language while you are visiting Irelan d!

Fáilte Welcome Dia dhuit Hello Slán go fóill Good bye ...is ainm dom My name is.. . Conas atá tú? Ho w are you? Tá mé go maith I’m good Sláinte! Cheers Go raibh maith agat Thank you Gabh mo leithsc éal Excuse me Cara Friend

Guests with wheelchair requirements If you require a wheelchair to help you reach or depart from the plane, then we’re here to help you. Your comfort and safety are our priority, so please let us know at least 48 hours in advance and we will look after you. When contacting us you will need your booking reference number. Assistance Contact Details specialassistance@aerlingus.com

Aer Lingus is proud to be recognised as Ireland‘s only 4-star airline, awarded by Skytrax, the world‘s leading airline and airport review specialists.

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Ireland (0818) 365 011 09:00–17:00 Mon–Fri 10:00–16:00 Sat & Sun 10:00–16:00 Bank Holidays UK (0871) 718 20 21 Europe +353 1 886 8333 USA (516) 622 4222

Vi c to r i a n H e r i ta g e P u b Whether you are travelling long haul or short haul a visit to The Long Hall is a must while in Ireland. Established in 1766 and celebrating 250 years in business this shrine to antiquity is one of Dublin’s oldest, most beautiful and best loved pubs, abundant in traditional charm and exuding genuine Victorian originality. Attentive Bartenders, a warm welcome and a friendly atmosphere await you. Renowned amongst locals for great Guinness.

Try our Limited Edition Powers “The Long Hall” Single Cask Release. Cask No.11791 was bottled especially for us to mark our 250th Anniversary.

OPEN DAILY AT 12 NOON 51 South Great Georges Street, Dublin 2 | Tel: +353 1 475 1590

Portable Electronic Devices You can use portable electronic equipment on flights but some devices can interfere with aircraft equipment, creating potential safety risks. Knowing how to set up your device for flight use and when to switch it on and off are therefore very important. Please note that certain devices may not be used.

Your Comfort and Safety When you fly with us, you want to know that we’re looking after your comfort and safety at all times. We are. It is our number one priority and our crew are trained to ensure you reach your destination as relaxed as you need to be. In return, we ask for your attention when it comes to safety announcements and knowing when, and how, to turn on your mobile, smartphone or portable device.

To avail of our Wi-Fi and Mobile Network on our A330 aircraft, you must switch off flight mode on your device – once our crew advise it is safe to do so. Follow the simple steps on page 146.

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Are you ready for take-off and landing? • Is your mobile phone and/ or other portable electronic device in flight mode? • Is your seatback fully upright? • Is your armrest down? • Is your tabletop stowed? • Have you stored your bags in the overhead locker or under the seat in front of you? To use your mobile phone and all other portable electronic devices during taxi, take-off or landing, they must be switched to flight mode or the flight safe setting. If you wish to use your phone during your flight, please make sure you select flight safe mode before your phone is powered off. Please note, if your device does not have a flight safe mode it may not be used on your flight. After landing and only when crew have advised that it is safe to do so, you are permitted to use your mobile phone, provided it is within easy reach. You must remain seated with your seatbelt fastened and follow the instructions of the cabin crew.

Devices permitted at any time Devices powered by micro battery cells and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers. Devices permitted inflight only* Laptops, portable CD-players, mini-disk players, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers and electronic toys. For the comfort of other guests, audio devices should be used with a headset. If using laptops inflight please select flight safe mode before takeoff. *Not permitted during taxi/take-off/ initial climb/approach/landing.

Devices prohibited at all times Devices transmitting radio frequency intentionally such as walkie-talkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and mini-disk recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN).** **Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.

“D&C has set the benchmark for casual Italian dining “D&C hasinset benchmark for casual Italian dining - Hotpress Magazine thethe capital..” in the capital..” - Hotpress Magazine “Dunne & Crescenzi has changed the way the “Dunne & Crescenzi has changed the way the Irish eat” - Tom Doorley Irish eat” - Tom Doorley “Pioneering & reigning” - The New York Times “Pioneering & reigning” - The New York Times

Valued collection of Italian restaurants

One Destination


de Restaurant Gui enna Top 100 cK M e th of rt Proud to be pa 14-16 South Frederick St. Dublin 2 Tel: +353 (1) 6759892

11 Seafort Avenue, Sandymount, Dublin 4 Tel: 353 (1) 6673252

Blackrock Shopping Centre Co. Dublin Tel: +353 (1) 5252012

Dundrum Town Centre Tel: +353 (1) 2166764

Kildare Village Tel: +353 045 535850


Book online for best rates

www.cliffsofmoher.ie Open 9am – 9pm in May, June, July & August

Up to 50% off morning and evening visits

United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization

Burren and Cliffs of Moher UNESCO Global Geopark

Your Comfort and Safety

Please pay attention to the cabin crew while they demonstrate the use of safety equipment before take-off, and we strongly recommend that you read the safety instruction card in the seat pocket in front of you.

Airbus 33


For your Safety

Here are a few tips to make your journey more comfortable: Keep moving: On longer flights particularly, try to change your sitting position regularly and avoid crossing your legs. Take a walk in the cabin once the seat belt sign is off as this will get your circulation going and refresh your legs. Ear care: Cabin pressure changes can be painful, particularly if you have a cold, sinusitis or existing ear problems. If you experience these problems during the flight, have a chat to our cabin crew. Drink up: Keep yourself hydrated throughout the flight by drinking plenty of water. Eye care: If you are a regular contact lens wearer, it is a good idea to bring your glasses with you in case your eyes feel dryer than usual. Time zones: Help beat jet lag by setting your watch to your destination’s time when you arrive on board. This will help you adjust to the new time zone faster. 128 |


Fóg ra Sáb háil tea cht Pour vot re Séc urit é Für ihre Sich erh eit Par a su Seg urid ad

A safe flight for everyone. It is worth repeating that your safety – and that of everyone on board – is our number one priority therefore we ask that you:

Per la vos tra Sicu rezz Säkerh et a om bor d Sikkerh et om bord Sikkerh ed om bord Plea se do

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• Please pay attention to instructions given to you by the cabin crew. • Do not consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or another guest (including Duty Free alcohol purchased from Boutique). It is illegal to do so.

ON Airplane Mode

ON Airplane Mode

• Do not interrupt cabin crew while they carry out their duties and do not interfere with aircraft equipment. • We also want to make it clear that Aer Lingus may refuse to allow a guest on board if it is thought that too much alcohol has been consumed. • Similarly, behaviour or language towards other guests or crew members that is deemed to be threatening or abusive will not be tolerated. • Taking photographs or video of airline personnel, equipment or procedures is strictly prohibited on board. • Taking photographs or video of other guests on board without their express consent is prohibited. • You may take photos or video of guests travelling in your party for your own personal use.

In line with Irish Government regulations, Aer Lingus has a no smoking and no electronic cigarettes policy on board. These are not permitted in any part of the cabin.

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Ballygarry House is owned and operated by the McGillicuddy family and celebrates 60 years as a hotel this year. It has established itself as a leading Irish hotel, recently listed as the Top 5 Hotel in Ireland on TripAdvisor for 2018. This charming 4 Star Property is located in the South West of Ireland, overlooking the Kerry Mountains on the Wild Atlantic Way. It is at the gateway to the Dingle Peninsula, Ring of Kerry and many Championship Links Courses. ‘As we celebrate 60 years of hospitality, we understand what makes us stand out - our attentive staff, our food offerings, the country house charm along with our plush guest bedrooms, our award winning Nádúr Spa & our passion for doing everything right every time’

Padraig McGillicuddy Proprietor of Ballygarry House Hotel & Spa

Co. Kerry, Ireland www.ballygarryhouse.com

Do he n y & Nes bi t t 4 / 5 L O W E R B A G G O T S T R E E T, D U B L I N

Food served all Day, Breakfast Lunch & Dinner Live music Every Sunday and Monday from 8pm Private function rooms available

Voted overall

best pub A Dublin Landmark…

in Ireland in the hospitalit y Ireland awards

One of Dublin’s oldest pubs, situated in the heart of Dublin City Centre. Doheny & Nesbitts is a haunt for many of the country’s leading politicians, sports and media personalities with bars and function rooms over three levels. Why not sample the finest in Irish food and drink. Come and enjoy the craic and the banter in Doheny & Nesbitts - A must for any trip to Dublin.

W: www.dohenyandnesbitts.ie T: 00353 (0) 1 6762945 E: info@themangangroup.ie

Box Office Movies Aer Lingus presents a variety of recently released movies for your enjoyment on board your flight. Welcome to the international multiplex cinema in the sky.

The Greatest Showman Inspired by the imagination of PT Barnum, The Greatest Showman is an original musical that celebrates the birth of show business and tells of a visionary who rose from nothing to create a spectacle that became a worldwide sensation. OSCAR NOMINATED


American Made


Blade Runner 2049



Darkest Hour


Father Figures


112 mins | Action An American pilot becomes a drug-runner for the CIA. Stars Tom Cruise, Domhnall Gleeson, Sarah Wright

156 mins | Sci-Fi A blade runner discovers a secret about Rick Deckard. Stars Harrison Ford, Ryan Gosling, Ana de Armas

125 mins | Biography Tough decisions made during the early days of World War II. Stars Gary Oldman, Lily James, Kristin Scott Thomas

112 mins | Comedy Two brothers hit the road in order to find their father. Stars Owen Wilson, Christopher Walken, JK Simmons






Pitch Perfect 3


93 mins | Comedy Bellas reunite for one last singing competition. Stars Anna Kendrick, Rebel Wilson, Brittany Snow


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Star Wars: The Last Jedi



The Disaster Artist

Goodbye Christopher Robin

107 mins | Biography Life of AA Milne, creator of Winnie-the-Pooh. Stars Domhnall Gleeson, Margot Robbie, Kelly MacDonald EN FR DE IT ES CCEN



The Florida Project




The Greatest Showman


152 mins | Action The Last Jedi heroes join the legends in an epic adventure. Stars Mark Hamill, Carrie Fisher, Adam Driver

103 mins | Biography A true story of aspiring filmmaker Tommy Wiseau. Stars James Franco, Dave Franco, Ari Graynor

107 mins | Drama Six-year-old Moonee lives in the shadows of Disney World. Stars Brooklynn Prince, Bria Vinaite, Willem Dafoe

104 mins | Musical A musical that celebrates the birth of show business. Stars Hugh Jackman, Michelle Williams, Zac Efron






The Shape of Water An other-worldly fairy tale, set against the backdrop of Cold War era America circa 1963. In the hidden high-security government laboratory where she works, lonely Elisa is trapped in a life of silence and isolation. But her life is changed forever when she discovers a secret classified experiment. OSCAR WINNER


Jumanji: Welcome PG13 to the Jungle

Justice League


117 mins | Action Teenagers get sucked into the video game world of Jumanji. Stars Dwayne Johnson, Karen Gillan

120 mins | Action Batman enlists the help of allies to defeat a new enemy. Stars Ben Affleck, Gal Gadot, Jason Momoa



Kingsman: The Golden Circle


The Shape of Water

Molly‘s Game

Murder on the Orient Express


138 mins | Action Two secret organisations band together to defeat an enemy. Stars Taron Egerton, Colin Firth, Mark Strong

113 mins | Mystery A famous detective seeks to solve a murder on a train. Stars Daisy Ridley, Kenneth Branagh, Michelle Pfeiffer







138 mins | Drama Memoir turned movie about female a pro skier turned high-stakes poker magnate. Stars Jessica Chastain, Idris Elba, Kevin Costner


The Hitman‘s Bodyguard


Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri



116 mins | Action A man is called upon to guard the life of his mortal enemy. Stars Samuel L Jackson, Ryan Reynolds, Gary Oldman

122 mins | Drama A woman discovers a secret experiment in a government lab. Stars Sally Hawkins, Octavia Spencer

115 mins | Drama A grieving mother confronts the authorities. Stars Frances McDormand, Sam Rockwell






108 mins | KidZone The tale of Ferdinand, a bull with a big heart. Voiced by Kate McKinnon, Bobby Cannavale, David Tennant


The LEGO Ninjago Movie


102 mins | KidZone A boy seeks to defeat an evil warlord with his fellow ninjas. Voiced by Jackie Chan, Dave Franco, Fred Armisen EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN

G General PG Parental Guidance PG13 Parental Guidance. Not suitable for children under 13. R Restricted. Not suitable for children under 18.

Available in EN English FR Français DE Deutsch IT Italiano ES Español CCEN Closed Caption English ADEN Audio Descriptive English ENS English Subtitles AERLINGUS.COM |

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Movie Classics

A selection of classic movies is available on board today along with some popular movies such as Gone Girl, Zodiac and Alien 3. Plus don‘t forget to check out some of our new and award-winning Irish shorts and features too!


Albert Nobbs R 112 mins | Stars Glenn Close, Mia Wasikowska, Aaron Taylor-Johnson

Alien 3 R 115 mins | Stars Sigourney Weaver, Charles S Dutton, Charles Dance

Arthur PG13 109 mins | Stars Russell Brand, Helen Mirren, Jennifer Garner

Brooklyn PG13 112 mins | Stars Saoirse Ronan, Emory Cohen

Edge of PG13 Tomorrow 114 mins | Stars Tom Cruise, Emily Blunt, Bill Paxton






Fight Club R 139 mins | Stars Brad Pitt, Edward Norton, Meat Loaf

Gone Girl R 149 mins | Stars Ben Affleck, Rosamund Pike, Neil Patrick Harris

Harry Potter & the Deathly Hallows: P1

Inception PG13 144 mins | Stars Leonardo DiCaprio, Joseph Gordon-Levitt



Independence PG13 Day 138 mins | Stars Will Smith, Bill Pullman


140 mins | Stars Daniel Radcliffe EN FR DE ES


We are delighted to offer award winning short films from the Aer Lingus Irish Filmmaker Competition; Goodbye, Darling by Maria Elena Doyle and The Lost Letter by Brian Willis. Also available is The Secret Market by Garrett Daly and Martina McGlynn, supported by the Aer Lingus TakeOff Foundation.


Goodbye, Darling

Mars Attacks! PG13 105 mins | Stars Jack Nicholson, Sarah Jessica Parker

Michael Collins R 120 mins | Stars Liam Neeson, Aidan Quinn, Julia Roberts

Ocean‘s PG13 Thirteen 122 mins | Stars Brad Pitt, George Clooney

Prometheus R 124 mins | Stars Noomi Rapace, Michael Fassbender

Rock of Ages PG13 118 mins | Stars Julianne Hough, Diego Boneta, Tom Cruise







The Lost Letter Sherlock PG13 Holmes: A Game of Shadows

Shooting PG13 for Socrates 92 mins | Stars John Hannah, Conleth Hill

Sing Street PG13 106 mins | Stars Ferdia Walsh-Peelo, Maria Doyle Kennedy

The Curious PG13 Case of Benjamin Button 162 mins | Stars Brad Pitt

The Departed R 145 mins | Stars Leonardo DiCaprio, Jack Nicholson






122 mins | Stars Jude Law, Robert Downey Jr


8 mins | Animation A boy tries to spread Christmas cheer. Voiced by Kate Winslet EN

The Secret Market The Last King of Scotland 122 mins | Stars James McAvoy



The Town R 125 mins | Stars Ben Affleck, Rebecca Hall, Jeremy Renner

Training Day R 122 mins | Stars Denzel Washington, Ethan Hawke

Zodiac R 158 mins | Stars Jake Gyllenhaal, Robert Downey Jr

2001: A Space Odyssey 122 mins | Stars Keir Dullea







11 mins | Drama A love story of an Irish Volunteer in the 1916 Rising. Stars Aoibhinn McGinnity, Deirdre Donnelly


23 mins | Drama A surgeon past life comes back to haunt her. Stars Victoria Smurfit, Tadhg Murphy EN

I R I S H S H O R T S & F E AT U R E S

A Single PG13 Woman’s Guide To Life 8 mins | Stars Alison McGirr

Harry PG13 Stands Up 8 mins | Stars Tim Casey, Eileen Fennell

Jaffa PG13 12 mins | Stars Danny Mahony, Aoife Honohan

Just About PG13 Managing 9 mins | Stars Tim Casey, Eddie Jackson

Patsy Dick PG13 12 mins | Stars Clodagh Downing, Neill Fleming, Gary Murphy

Shoebox PG13 Memories 74 mins | Stars Brendan Sheehan, Dylan McDonough

The PG13 Fireman and the Nurse 14 mins | Stars Bairbre O‘Toole

The PG13 Randomer 82 mins | Stars George Hanover









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Become a Member Enjoy the benefits of doing business in the RDS > Access to our elegant Members’ Club > Excellent food and private chef > Use of reciprocal clubs worldwide > Use of the unique and tranquil space of the RDS Library

> Complimentary 5-day entry to the Dublin Horse Show, August 8-12 > Access to meeting facilities 5 minutes from Dublin City > Eircoach stop directly outside the RDS (Merrion Road)

Annual Fees (include food and beverage credit):

Overseas Membership Country Membership City Membership Corporate Membership

email: catherine@rds.ie

€250 €300 €380 €2,700 (for 4 named individuals)

Phone: 01-240 7296

web: rds.ie/membership


TV Shows Aer Lingus is home to some of the most anticipated new shows on TV including comedy, drama, documentary, lifestyle, business, sports and kids programmes.

Dara and Ed’s Road to Mandalay A light-hearted and entertaining travelogue throughout Asia. Comedians Dara O‘Briain and Ed Byrne add great comedic value and a sense of camaraderie as they travel via various exciting methods of transport; from rice barges and boats to trains and planes. On board is Series 1, Episode 1.



Brilliant Ideas Artists Superflex involve audiences in their art CNBC Meets … Music star Dolly Parton talks about her success Game Changers The iconic designer, Ralph Lauren Global Opportunities Hong Kong Metropolitan Tourism, economy energy issues and much more Real Economy How some countries solve unemployment C O M E DY

Baskets S2, EP3 & 4, The Baskets family is at its most fragile Brooklyn Nine-Nine S4, EP1 & 2, Jake and Holt adjust to their new lives in Florida Fresh Off the Boat S3, EP 1 & 2, The Huangs travel to Taiwan Man Seeking Woman S3, EP1, Josh and Lucy struggle with their living situation Modern Family S8, EP1 & 2, Three families in three different cities Sirens S2, EP2 & 3, Life of three Chicago EMTs The Big Bang Theory S11, EP1 & 2, Amy has trouble deciding if she should marry Sheldon 134 |


Building Ireland S2, EP4, Ireland’s great building achievements Cosmos: A Spacetime Odyssey S1, EP6, Science casts its cloak of visibility over everything Ice Holes S1, EP1, Fishermen compete during the ice season Raw Travel S8, EP6, The unique cultural heritage of Quebec City Robert Redford‘s The West S1, EP1, The violent world of cowboys, Indians, and gunslingers Sea of Hope One-Off Special, A team of ocean experts embark on a year-long quest Through The Wormhole with Morgan Freeman S6, EP6, Evolution says all life exists to reproduce. Is that all? Tracks & Trails S7, EP3, The Happy Pear brothers explore Avoca in County Wicklow Unique Rides With Will Castro S1, EP6, Will is customising Carmelo Anthony‘s Jeep Wrangler Whose Holiday is it Anyway? S1, EP1, Teenage kids take over the power of their family holiday

A Grand Experience One-Off Special, Three artists’ journey along the Grand Canal A Season At The Juilliard School S1, EP4, Students develop their own technique and teamwork Ballyfin: Portrait of an Irish Country House One-Off Special, Ballyfin‘s role in the 19th century Ireland Be Your Own Boss S1, EP3, Turning dreams into businesses Class Swap S1, EP2, Irish students sample school life in EU Grandma‘s Boy S1, EP1, Donal Skehan modernises classic dishes Happiness is on the Plate S1, EP3, Cooking in the kitchens of the most captivating chefs How To Cook Well, With Rory O’Connell S3, EP1, The chef introduces a selection of dishes How to Win at Everything S1, EP3, Winning tips and scientific explanations on everything NEWS & EVENTS

In addition to our extensive selection of TV shows, Aer Lingus brings you exclusive weekly news updates, as well as updates from the world of sport.


Courtside An exclusive interview with Andy Murray Mobil 1 The Grid Join Bentley at their season finale in Barcelona Premier League Show: All Time Best XI One-Off Special, Four football legends pick their ultimate Premier League Sporting Greats II S2, EP10, Nick Faldo takes us through his career The Road To Russia S1, EP1, the World Cup’s first qualifying team Xtreme Collxtion S4, EP1, Extreme sports around the planet K I DZ O N E

Brewster The Rooster Compilation, Discover answers to questions only preschoolers ask! Giving Tales S1, EP1–9, Classic fairy tales by Hans Christian Anderson iCarly S5, EP1, One Direction is performing, but Carly gets sick Planet Cosmo S1, EP7 & 8, Eight planets for Cosmo to explore Teen Titans Go! S1, EP3, A fight divides members of the team The Day Henry Met? Compilation, Every day Henry meets something or someone new Victorious S1, EP2, Tori must perform for a school play

Sea of Hope: America’s Underwater Treasures A one-off special where a team of ocean experts embark on a year-long environmental quest in hopes of inspiring Barack Obama to establish Blue Parks across an unseen American wilderness. Breathtaking underwater cinematography captures remarkable encounters with dolphins, whales sharks, cod, leatherback turtles and in the Pisces submersible, what may be a new species of coral.

The Good Place Season 2 of The Good Place kicks off with a bang following the earth-shattering reveal of Season 1’s finale. Forced to relive the afterlife with erased memories in the first two episodes, the gifted cast are given excellent comic material, with Kristen Bell and Ted Danson in flying form as usual. On board is Series 2, Episodes 1 and 2.

See Exquisite Pieces of Crystal manufactured before your eyes

“It’s crystal clear”

A factory tour where you can almost rub shoulders with the artisans as they produce beautiful objects.

“Great Tour of Waterford Crystal” Great history, very close to the process and really beautiful items.

+353 (0) 51 317000 houseofwaterfordcrystal@fiskars.com www.waterfordvisitorcentre.com

Game of Thrones Season 7 R The accomplished cast returns to your screens with a season that packs so much into seven episodes you’ll be desperate for more!


With all the families from the series converging on Westeros for the first time, the main characters are faced with difficult choices constantly. The questions of loyalty, honour, and trust are brought to the fore as Danaerys, Jon, Sansa, Arya, Sam, and Cersei deal with the repercussions of what transpired in the previous season.

Choose from some of the finest boxsets to watch on board today. Delve into the hugely popular Game of Thrones or the dystopian drama The Handmaid‘s Tale. Also on board is the US teen drama Riverdale and the Twin Peaks reboot.

Twin Peaks Season 1

However, while those in Westeros are fighting amongst themselves, an old enemy is approaching the Wall and it seems nothing can stop it. On board are Episodes 1–7, Season 7.


Twenty-five years after the inhabitants of a quaint northwestern town were stunned when homecoming queen Laura Palmer was shockingly murdered, the supernatural, surreal and sometimes darkly comic Twin Peaks returns to our screens with many of the elements that cemented its cult status and inspired visionary showrunners like David Chase and Damon Lindelof. Telling the story of quirky FBI Special Agent Dale Cooper’s odyssey back to the idiosyncratic town, the eerie undercurrents of seemingly ordinary small-town life favoured by acclaimed director David Lynch also quietly return and have earned rave reviews from critics far and wide. On board are Episodes 1–10, Season 1.

Riverdale Season 1


This American teen drama takes a bold, refreshing view of the original characters from Archie Comics for the 21st century audience. A seemingly perfect small town is rocked by the death of one of the high school’s most popular students, twin Jason Blossom. His friends Archie, Betty, and Jughead struggle to deal with the aftermath while Jason’s twin sister, Queen Bee Cheryl creates waves. When new girl Veronica arrives, all their relationships are put to the test. This apparently idyllic town hides a lot of secrets, and mystery and darkness is bubbling beneath the surface. On board are Episodes 1–10, Season 1.

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The Handmaid‘s Tale Season 1 R Adapted from the classic novel by Canadian author, Margaret Atwood, The Handmaid’s Tale is the haunting, vivid and terrifying story of June Osbourne, a member of a caste of women forced into sexual servitude as a last desperate attempt to repopulate a world of declining fertility rates. Subjected to the will of her commander and his cold, cruel wife, June is frequently humiliated and degraded; but under her mask of obedience, she has one goal: to survive and find the daughter that was taken from her. An intense and intelligent series, this is a must-see. On board are Episodes 1–10, Season 1.

Historic O’Neill’s


the famous Molly Malone Statue opposite O’Neill’s

Set in the heart of the city, O’Neill’s is one of Dublin’s most famous and historic pubs. When you pay us a visit you will receive a warm welcome and enjoy its ageless character, numerous alcoves, snugs, nooks and crannies. To make your visit enjoyable we offer you ... • Extensive Irish Food Menu and Famous • Pour Your Own Pint tables Carvery serving only the finest Irish • Free Wi-Fi to all our Customers Meat, Fish and Vegetables. In fact, • For the whiskey connoisseur there’s Lonely Planet rate us as one of the our Whiskey Bar where you’ll find a Top 5 Places to find ‘Real Irish food fantastic selection of Irish whiskeys in Dublin’ and malts • Irish Music and Traditional Irish • HD and 3D Screens for the Sports Fan Dancing 7 nights-a-week with major international league games. • Roof-Top Beer Garden and Smoking Area • Our ‘Really Good’ Full Irish Breakfast • Largest selection of local Irish can’t be beaten for quality and value. Craft Beers on draught in Ireland, 11 items plus tea/coffee, toast, jam representing as many of the local and butter is only €8.95, Pictured Craft Breweries as possible, rotating below. This special offer is available and guesting beers Mon-Fri only, 8am-11.30am.

Voted Guided tours Top 10 Venue hire in Dublin Whiskey tastings Bar and Off licence now open Whiskey & Brunch Experience

Traditional Irish Music and Dancing 7 nights-a-week. The Chef carving from a selection of freshly roasted meats at the Carvery.

Our ‘Really Good’ Breakfast Menu is served 7 days a week.

M.J. O’Neill, Suffolk Street, Dublin 2. Tel. 01 679 3656 www.oneillspubdublin.com Mon-Thurs: 8.00am-11.30pm Fri: 8.00am-12.30am Sat: 8.00am-12.30am Sun: 8.00am-11.00pm SatNav 53.343958, -6.260796

BOOK NOW! Top 5 places to find Real Irish Food in Dublin



Lyambiko German jazz singer Lyambiko’s new album, Love Letters, was inspired by a box of letters she found in the attic of her husband’s parental home. Written between 1933 and 1944 by his grandparents, the beautiful missives reassured each other of their love as jobs and World War II kept them separated. Lyambiko’s musical interpretation of the letters combines old and new songs to deliver a highly personal and touching album.

Music & Radio Browse through our selection of music and create your own playlist from a collection of over 1,000 albums. On Demand Radio allows you to select and view your favourite radio shows.


Mystery Train with John Kelly RTÉ lyric fm The Full Score with Liz Nolan RTÉ lyric fm EASY LISTENING

An hour long compilation of easy listening songs from Fitzpatrick Hotels INDIE


Breakfast Republic 2FM Pop Charts Compilation of favourite pop songs RTÉ Gold Digital Radio Al Dunne, RTÉ Gold, 4 decades of great music Ronan Collins RTÉ Radio 1, Featuring listeners’ old favourites, plus the best of the new and some surprises in between Top 20 of 2017 98FM ROCK

Lost in Music Louise Duffy, Today FM

Marty Miller Radio Nova TA L K


Ceol na nGael Seán Ó hÉanaigh, RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta Irish Pulse Compilation of Irish artists K I DZ O N E

CAKE – Culture & Arts for Kids and Everyone Abie Philbin Bowman, RTÉ Junior

Best of Moncrieff Seán Moncrieff, Newstalk RTÉ Radio 1 Documentary on One We offer two documentaries – the first on Richard Hayes, an unsung Irish hero who cracked Nazi codes during WW2 and the second on Frank Stagg, an IRA hunger striker who had two burials and three funerals


Jennifer, Keith and Bernard wake up the nation every weekday morning with comedy and music on 2fm. For this special Aer Lingus episode of Breakfast Republic they bring you just some of their favourite sketches and songs which even include some originals by Bernard.


Fenian‘s Trace The story of two boys raised as brothers in early 1900s Ireland who choose different paths when the rebellion comes but fall in love with the same woman. Written by Sean P Mahoney and narrated by Liam Carney

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Breakfast Republic on 2FM

RTÉ Junior: CAKE – Culture & Arts for Kids and Everyone Our junior reporters meet the artist Rasher and wildlife expert and photographer Colin Stafford-Johnson. And, discover fun facts from the world of art and culture including Spiderman, Where the Wilds Things are, and a secret code from the movie Frozen is revealed!

Miley Cyrus

We appreciate your feedback on our inflight content. Tell us what you think, send us a tweet!

Younger Now is a down-home, blue-skies blend of country and radiant pop, a return to this fiercely inventive pop star‘s Tennessee roots. She summons her inner child in Week Without You and tells her dreams out loud through Inspired. We recommend enjoying the new country Miley for as long as it lasts.


Aerosmith Rock in a Hard Place Daryl Hall & John Oates Private Eyes Eurythmics Sweet Dreams (Are Made of This) Gladys Knight & The Pips About Love Michael Jackson Thriller The Jacksons Milestones – The Jacksons A LT E R N AT I V E

Colony House Only the Lonely Dams of the West Youngish American Everything Everything A Fever Dream Grizzly Bear Painted Ruins The Lone Bellow Walk Into a Storm Tom Grennan Found what I‘ve Been Looking For CL ASSIC AL

Benjamin Richter Memory Lane Khatia Buniatishvili Motherland Lionel Cottet From Latin America to Paris – Works for Cello and Piano Nils Mönkemeyer William Walton, Max Bruch, Arvo Pärt Sol Gabetta Il Progetto Vivaldi 2 Yaara Tal Polonaise

Simon Taylor Now Then is a beautiful collection of instrumental tracks. Recorded in Dublin, Caceres, York and the Kingdom of Kerry, the tunes were all originally written on acoustic guitar in alternative tunings, and then built upon with arrangements and guest performances. Simon Taylor‘s debut album is rich in texture, allowing the listener space to roam.


Chris Young A.M. Home Free Timeless Jessie James Decker Southern Girl City Lights Kelsea Ballerini Unapologetically Miranda Lambert Four the Record Ryan Hurd Ryan Hurd ELEC TRO

Armin van Buuren Mirage Kygo Kids In Love Lost Frequencies Less is More Michael Bersch Departure Saint Etienne Smash the System Singles 1990–99 The Chainsmokers Memories ... Do Not Open IR ISH

Celtic Thunder Inspirational Daithi In Flight Kodaline I Wouldn‘t Be Simon Taylor Now Then The Script Freedom Child Van Morrison TB Sheets


Herbie Hancock Mr Hands Lucas Pino‘s No Net Nonet The Answer is No Lyambiko Love Letters Markus Stockhausen Far into the Stars Miles Davis Star People Stacey Kent I Know I Dream: The Orchestral Sessions M E TA L

Arch Enemy War Eternal Arch Enemy Will To Power Judas Priest Turbo 30 Motörhead The Very Best of Ozzy Osbourne Diary of a Madman Papa Roach Crooked Teeth Soilwork The Living Infinite OPER A

Christian Gerhaher Romantische Arien Jonas Kaufmann L‘Opéra Olga Peretyatko, Ural Philharmonic Orchestra & Dimitry Liss Russian Light Plácido Domingo,Pablo Heras-Casado & Orquestra de la Comunitat Valenciana Verdi The London Oratory Schola Cantorum Boys Choir Sacred Treasures of England


Fifth Harmony Fifth Harmony Kirstin Love Michael Jackson Number Ones Miley Cyrus Younger Now Ruth B Safe Haven Superfruit Future Friends RNB

Boyz II Men Under the Streetlight Chaka Khan Funk This Des‘ree Mind Adventures Ginuwine Back II Da Basics Nai Palm Needle Paw Tone Stith Can We Talk


Arcade Fire Everything Now Cage The Elephant Unpeeled Dreamcar Dreamcar Foo Fighters Concrete and Gold Foster the People Sacred Hearts Club The Isley Brothers & Santana Power of Peace K I DZ O N E

Arthur Fiedler Classics For Children Judson Mancebo Babies Love Queen Spongebob Squarepants Spongebob Squarepants – The Yellow Album The Backyardigans The Backyardigans – Born to Play Various Artists Baby’s Bedtime


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Flight Connections at Dublin Airport

Dublin Airport provides FREE Wi-Fi throughout the Terminal

Welcome to Dublin Airport Are your bags checked through to your final destination?

YES Follow signs for Flight Connections

Naisc Eitilte Flight Connections

Where are you flying to?

NO Follow the signs for ‘Baggage Reclaim’. After clearing passport control, your baggage belt will be displayed on the screens. Collect your bags, exit through Customs and proceed to Aer Lingus Check-in Terminal 2.

USA USA GATES 401– 426 15 minutes walk to gate

Our staff are on hand for any queries you might have. Here, you can collect your onwards boarding pass and check your next boarding gate and flight status

Gate Information Screens

Passport Control and Security Screening

GATES 401–426 15 minutes walk to gate GATES 101–335 20 minutes walk to gate

Have all your required forms filled out.

Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk


Follow signs for US Preclearance

Geataí Gates


Hand Baggage search Follow signs for Flight Connections

Enjoy refreshments in one of the restaurants or cafés.

Departure Gate

AerClub Concierge, Platinum and Silver members are welcome to visit the Aer Lingus Lounge. You can work, eat, drink or even grab a shower between flights.

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If you have any queries about your connecting flight at any of our North American destinations please ask us. We will do everything we can to get you to where you need to be.

Flight Connections T2 London Heathrow


Geataí Gates Réamh-Imréitach SAM U.S. Preclearance

Duty free purchases containing liquids over 100ml must be in a sealed and tamper-proof bag with the receipt inside.

Flight Connections for North American destinations

On arrival at Terminal 2, Heathrow, please follow the purple signs for Flight Connections. Which terminal are you flying from? For Terminals 3, 4 and 5, a dedicated bus will transfer you. Buses are free and depart every six to ten minutes. If you are flying from Terminal 2, proceed to security screening and enter the departures lounge. Security screening You will pass through security screening at this point. Your hand baggage will be checked to ensure it conforms to UK and EU regulations. Liquids in containers over 100ml are not allowed through security. Departure lounge Check the screens in the departure lounge for when your gate opens and when your flight is ready for boarding.









25 €

Fleet Street • Stephen’s Green • Blanchardstown Dundrum • Swords • Liffey Valley


*T&C’s apply

Our European and North American Route Network

Edmonton Saskatoon


Regina Winnipeg


Thunder Bay





Minneapolis Boise Sioux Falls


Grand Rapids


Des Moines



Kansas City

Fort Wayne Akron Canton Chicago

Fresno Las Vegas Monterey San Luis Obispo Los Angeles Santa Barbara Palm Springs Burbank Santa Ana Long Beach San Diego



San Francisco


Oklahoma City


Hyannis Nantucket Martha’s Vineyard

New York (JFK) Philadelphia

Richmond Norfolk Raleigh–Durham

Columbia Charleston

El Paso Houston




Greenville Atlanta

Dallas (Fort Worth)


Honolulu Kahului





Portland ME

Washington (National)


Little Rock Phoenix






Washington (Dulles)


San Jose




Burlington Syracuse

Columbus Harrisburg Baltimore



St Louis



Detroit Cleveland

Cedar Rapids Salt Lake City


Milwaukee Madison





Portland OR Eugene

St. John’s

Quebec Fargo

New Orleans

Tallahassee Pensacola

San Antonio


Jacksonville Gainesville

Orlando Tampa Fort Myers

West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale

Miami Key West

San Juan Aguadilla Ponce

We are the best choice for connecting Europe to North America. You can travel from Dublin direct to twelve US destinations, or to Canada, and benefit from up to 100 onward connections with our partner airlines. You can also fly from Shannon direct to Boston and New York JFK. With US Customs and Border Protection Pre-clearance at Dublin and Shannon airports, you will save time and avoid queues in the US. Arrive in the US before you depart Ireland.

Aer Lingus European and North American Network Aer Lingus Regional routes (Operated by Stobart Air) Aer Lingus Regional and mainline routes Aer Lingus partner destinations (Operated by Flybe, for routes via Dublin to North America) Aer Lingus partner destinations (American Airlines, Air Canada, Jetblue, United Airlines and WestJet) Aer Lingus partner destinations (Operated by City Flyer)

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Aer Lingus fly direct to and from over 100 destinations across Ireland, the UK, Continental Europe, Canada and the US. Our vast network and partners will also connect you to dozens of other cities in North America. Visit aerlingus.com for more information.

Aberdeen Glasgow




Leeds Bradford Doncaster Manchester

Isle of Man



Shannon Kerry




Cardiff Newquay



London London City London Southend Heathrow

Bristol Exeter

Hamburg Amsterdam



London Gatwick

Brussels Prague




Stuttgart Vienna





Nantes Geneva Lyon Bordeaux


Santiago de Compostela


Montpellier Perpignan

Venice Milan Verona (Malpensa) Milan (Linate) Bologna Pula Nice Pisa




Dubrovnik Rome



Madrid Corfu


Lisbon Alicante Murcia Malaga


Athens Catania


Tenerife Gran Canaria

Lanzarote Fuerteventura

Try our online route map You can view our destinations and book your flight directly from our route map. Perfect for viewing from your tablet, it is built using Google maps so no need to install any software, just browse and book!


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Our Middle East, Australasia and South African Route Network You can now book flights from Dublin to destinations in the Middle East, Australia and South Africa via London Heathrow and Abu Dhabi. Visit aerlingus.com for more information.


London Heathrow



Abu Dhabi


Kuala Lumpur Singapore

Aer Lingus routes via Abu Dhabi (Operated by our codeshare partner Etihad Airways) Aer Lingus routes via London Heathrow (Operated by our codeshare partner British Airways)

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Perth Sydney



Excellent track record representing: • • • • •

Professionals Executives Investors Intra-company transferees Multi-national managers

• • • •

Family-based petitions Interns and trainees Artists Outstanding individuals in athletics, business, entertainment and science

For client testimonials visit: www.obrienandassociates.com @usvisaexpert

New York Office: T: 212-965-1148

Deirdre O’Brien, Esq.

Kilkenny Office: T: 056-7767994



Creators of Fine Jewelry Since 1985 Your best source for diamonds and fine jewelry

haniken.com |

info@ haniken.com |

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Staying connected on board*

Choose how you access the internet on board. We have three options for you to select.


Aer Social

Aer Max








Mobile Network on board

With our onboard mobile network, AeroMobile, you can use your phone for text, email and internet browsing, just like you would on the ground**. Stay connected even as you cross the Atlantic.

1 Switch on



Wi-Fi on board in six steps

On our A330 aircraft you can stay in touch with everything that matters, even when you’re in the air. Here’s how to connect your Wi-Fi enabled devices.

1 Switch on

Switch on your mobile when it is safe to do so, keeping it on silent or vibrate mode. Ensure you switch off flight safe mode.

Once the safety belt sign has been switched off, turn on your device and connect to the Telekom HotSpot Network. SSID: Aer_Lingus_WiFi

2 Aeromobile

2 Connect

Wait for the AeroMobile network signal to appear. If your device does not connect automatically, manually select the AeroMobile network through network settings.

Launch or refresh the browser to connect to the Aer Lingus portal. You can browse aerlingus.com for free along with some of our partners’ sites.

3 Welcome SMS

Click the ‘Buy Internet Access’ button and choose a plan.

Once connected you will receive a welcome SMS from AeroMobile. You may also receive a pricing message from your mobile operator. International roaming rates apply.

4 Connected

You can now use your phone for SMS, MMS, email and browsing the internet. ** Voice calls are disabled and are not permitted during flight. Remember to manage your settings to avoid automatic data download and roaming charges.

International roaming rates apply from your mobile phone operator 146 |

Aer Surf


3 Purchase Internet Access

4 Payment

Select your payment method which is processed via a secure connection. Credit card, roaming, iPass, PayPal or Deutsche Telekom accounts are accepted.

5 Username and Password

Enter a username and password. You need to remember these if you wish to change device.

6 Connected

You can now browse, email and surf the internet… enjoy! *A330 aircraft only.



LATE OPENING FRIDAY & SATURDAY 51 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Ph: 0035316771155 Open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner dawson@marcopierrewhite.ie

For over 175 years everyone has enjoyed a warm Irish Welcome in The Temple Bar. Lovers of whiskey have enjoyed Irelands largest whiskey collection, complimented with live Irish music sessions daily at the friendliest spot in Dublin.


Supper club with live music every Friday night 1 Belmont Ave, D 4 Ph: 0035315510555 courtyard@marcopierrewhite.ie



WELCOME TO YOUR WORLD-CLASS 4-STAR AIRLINE. In recognition of our consistent quality and excellent guest experience, Skytrax World Airline Awards has rated Aer Lingus 4-stars, making us the first and only Irish airline to receive such a prestigious rating. Smart flies 4-star. Smart flies Aer Lingus.




40 minutes from Dublin in the Boyne Valley, birthplace of Ireland’s Ancient East.


Brasserie Sixty6 is one of Dublin’s favourite restaurants in the heart of the city centre. Open seven days a week, we serve lunch, dinner and host one of the best brunches in town on the weekends. Our menu features some hearty, home style favourites using fresh Irish produce. To pair with the food we’ve got a tempting cocktail list of hand-crafted signature drinks and signature cocktails as well as a wine list with over 100 wines from all over the globe.

66-67 South Great Georges Street, Dublin 2. For bookings please call 01-4005878


DON’T FORGET TO CHECK-IN - FACEBOOK: brasseriesixty6restaurant Twitter: brasseriesixty6


Don't forget TO PACK ...

As the holiday season is fast approaching – we've got the essential items that every self-respecting suitcase needs.


Ensure skin is kept in top shape while travelling with this handy travel size kit that includes microfoliant and moisturiser.


While holidays are for switching off and disconnecting, keep track of time with this stylish sporty watch.

KOMONO TORTOISE UNISEX SUNGLASSES Provide protection from the much-loved rays with these stylish, unisex and UV400 protection sunglasses.


Transform dull and tired skin instantly with this illuminating pen that will leave skin looking radiant and refreshed.


Activate holiday mode with this bright and fresh scent that will transport you back to the sunshine long after you're home.


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Travel writer Leif Pettersen excitedly accepted an invitation to join the inaugural Wild Atlantic Way Cycle Sportif – maybe a little too excitedly. he biannual Wild Atlantic Way Cycle Sportif made its inaugural run up the verdant, striking west coast of Ireland last September, winding its way on a 2,152-kilometre route “designed by cyclists for cyclists”. The second sportif is being held this April 20 until May 8 and the third from September 8-26. It’s important to know that a European cycle sportif (or cyclosportive) is not a serene, rambling roll through the countryside, where you can pull over frequently for photos, drink in the scenery and have a breather while you post to Instagram. While the Wild Atlantic Way ride is noncompetitive and stage times are not recorded, it is very much a pedalto-the-floor, ride-it-like-you-stole-it chase. This critical information was


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not communicated when the trip was pitched to me as a travel writing assignment. But let’s learn more about the tour before we delve into personal humiliation. The 16-stage event is Ireland’s only fully supported, multi-stage cycle sportif. Only the most hardened souls ride from start to finish. It’s designed for (sane) people, limited by vacation time, to hop in and out for a single day or a four-stage/five-night block, with the option of registering as little as 24 hours in advance, space permitting. Registration includes a jersey, rain jacket, accommodation, meals, luggage transfers, support vehicles (including paramedics and mechanic) and a transfer back to your starting location. If cycling inspiration strikes in the middle of your Ireland visit, you can rent a bike from the Sportif.

Lycra or lump it – the biannual sportif winds itself around some incredible scenery on Ireland’s West Coast.

When seeking media coverage for new events, it’s typical to invite writers along, so they can report their experience to the world and raise awareness. Typically, a writer is asked to participate in the activity (experience is irrelevant), so they can recap their experience in lilting, laypeople terms. Sometimes the activity requires an expert to be invited, who then does their best to write for laypeople. The latter was what should have happened in my case. Be warned innocent, budding cyclists reading this, the west coast of Ireland, achingly beautiful as it is from a bus seat, can be cold and windy, with ceaseless, sadistic hills. Despite being around bikes for most of my life, three weeks’ notice was not enough time to shake off the rust and prepare in hot, flat Minnesota. (For context, an Irish hill is like two Minnesota hills stacked on a Minnesota mountain.) Nor was I prepared for the advanced, close quarters peloton conditions. If you’re not firmly confident about your conditioning and competency, maybe give yourself another six to 12 months of training before joining the Sportif. Or be prepared to live somewhere between 500 to 1,000 metres off the back of the peloton, where you can wheeze, swerve and perhaps collapse in peace. However, if you’ve got the legs, this is a singular and memorable opportunity to tour the bucolic and calm roads along the famed Wild Atlantic Way, while all the logistics are someone else’s problem. All you need to do is pedal. In a possible reaction to my presence, still a much-regaled tale in Irish cycling circles I imagine, the Sportif now has a system to flag and scoop up people whose legs give out on those evil hills. There’s no shame, my friend. As you sit gasping and seeing spots in the sweeper car, you can console yourself with the fact that you likely performed better than I did. wildatlanticwaycyclesportif.ie Follow Leif Pettersen on Twitter @leifpettersen.





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