TRAVEL ESSENTIALS STAY
STORIED Hawthorne Hotel is an elegant 1925 lodging beside Salem Commons, whose newly renovated grand ballroom hosts many weddings and special events. Interiors are comfortable and chintzy, and, insider tip: see if you can catch Jonathan Reardon, Quartermaster of the Salem Marine Society, to show you its “secret” rooftop clubhouse. B&B from $179. (18 Washington Square W, +1 978 744 4080; hawthornehotel.com)
YE OLDE Turner’s Seafood is an upscale Salem mainstay that’s said to be haunted by the ghost of Bridget Bishop, the first woman executed in the witch trials of 1692 and on whose land the Lyceum Hall was built in 1831. New England classics abound: clam and fish chowders, oysters, lobster rolls and more. (43 Church St, +1 978 745 7665; turners-seafood.com)
BEWITCHING A Federal-style property built in 1834 by Captain Nathaniel West, The Salem Inn is as packed with oldschool charm as it is with antique and vintage furniture. Spick and span rooms have been renovated to a high standard without compromising on original features. It’s also centrally located one block away from The Witch House, the former home of Judge Jonathan Corwin, who signed arrest warrants during the Salem Witch Trails. B&B from $189. (7 Summer St, +1 978 741 0680; saleminnma.com)
TRICKS & TREATS SPELLBINDING Are you a sleek or a gnarly wand person? Find out at Wynott’s Wands, a wonderful gem of a magic shop that will definitely have you asking yourself esoteric questions. (127 Essex St, +1 978 741 1170; salemmagicshop.com) NOUVEAU Not all witches are into Gothic doom and gloom. HausWitch Home + Healing offers a refreshingly minimalist take on the modern witchcraft aesthetic, its owner Erica Feldmann being on a mission to bring more magic into people’s homes. Pick up a signed copy of her book HausMagick. (144 Washington St, +1 978 594 8950; hauswitchstore.com) INKY The Black Veil Studio is a haven for those wanting to be tattooed by cult status twins Ryan and Matthew Murray. Stay for the photogenic decor and darkly curated selection of locally made art and gifts. (137 Boston St, +1 978 969 0741; blackveilstudio.com)
VISTAS At Sea Level Oyster Bar, order clam chowder and a local Notch Pilsner, below, sit back and enjoy the outlook of Pickering Wharf. The harbour-front porch is, naturally, jampacked during the summer months and pricing is of the tourist variety. But lobster rolls are sizeable and that view is priceless. (94 Wharf St, +1 978 741 0555; sealeveloysterbar.com) REFINED For expert cocktails in a warmly lit former bank, it has to be Ledger Restaurant
& Bar, whose architectural bones date back to 1818. Traditional 19th-century New England dishes have been given a 21stcentury update by chef and owner Matt O’Neil and executive chef Daniel Gursha, who had training in Copenhagen’s Noma. (125 Washington St, +1 978 594 1908; ledgersalem.com)
SMART TIPS ARRIVALS If arriving from Boston via broomstick just isn’t an option, take the ferry. The sail takes around an hour and costs $45 return, regular fare. bostonharborcruises.com DARK ARTS Check out HauntedHappenings.org for a comprehensive list of events throughout October. For instance, The Black Veil Studio is hosting the Dark Arts Night Faire on October 26 at Pioneer Village.