Vancouver Courier May 28 2010

Page 30

EW30

T HE VA N C O U V E R C O U R I E R F R I D AY, M AY 2 8 , 2 0 1 0

travel

Hilly geography prevents chain hotels from setting up in city

Continued from page 29 Instead, they have to stay at boutique guest quarters like Hotel Higueras, which was once a mansion built by a wealthy British banker in the 1920s. The hotel, with 30 cozy rooms, features a spa, café and a small swimming pool. The cultural figure in Chile who casts the longest shadow, poet Pablo Neruda, spent much of 1948 in Valparaiso in hiding after the ardent com-

Congrio on my menu. After sampling an appetizer with very fresh pieces of tuna, shrimp and octopus served in olive oil and salsa, my dish arrives. Like most Chilean soups, it’s a thin broth with big pieces of meat—in this case, conger fish. One of my lunch companions laughs and says something to an Englishspeaking friend, who tells me Neruda once composed an “Ode to Conger

munist ran afoul of the country’s right-wing president, Gabriel González. Later on, he would keep a home in the city, La Sebastian—one of three houses owned by the 1971 Nobel Laureate that are now open as museums. Neruda’s house is closed the day we visit, so we end up going for lunch at Oda Pacifico, a seafood restaurant nearby. Looking for a Chilean dish I had yet to try, I point to Caldillo con

Chowder.” “In the chowder/are warmed/the essences of Chile,” Neruda wrote, “and to the table/come, newly wed the savors/ of land and sea,/ that in this dish/you may know heaven.” I can’t admit I tasted heaven in my Caldillo con Congrio. But in Valparaiso, I find a place where an artist might feel as though they’ve seen paradise. lexydog@gmail.com

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