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Welcome to the new-look Scruples magazine! W elcome As we enter our twenty-fifth year of business
we wanted to up-the-ante with our publication – and we hope you enjoy the result.
Scruples began life after Christine, my sister, had initially opened a ladies clothes shop in September 1983 – and in March 1984, we launched Scruples menswear upstairs at 87 Gisburn Road. However, sixteen years ago, as the business grew, we expanded the premises and more recently we’ve re-fitted the upstairs of the shop – which is now a special area designated for suits and measuring up. We think it helps create a relaxed atmosphere where you can consider carefully what kind of suit you want, and where we can assist you in your choice. We’re very pleased with the space we’ve created and we must thank all those who helped us redevelop that portion of the shop. Over the years at Scruples we’ve seen some significant changes, but there have been many constants – our loyal customers for a start. Additionally, from day one we’ve sought to bring high quality clothing brands to our customers and we’ve always done so with an emphasis on delivering a friendly and personalised service. What’s more, as a family business, myself, Jan and Ryan cover three generations, so we’re well placed to understand the requirements of a very diverse customer base.
Our family spans through THREE generations, which enables us to offer you exceptional experience Our emphasis on quality has seen us continue to develop the made-to-measure service and this autumn we were once again host to Bruno Magnaguagno, the tailor from Pal Zileri who manages the made-to-measure service that we provide. The service continues to go from strength to strength and we’re delighted that it has caught the imagination of Scruples customers. There is something very special about having a suit made to your specific taste and requirement – and more and more of you are coming to us to have your very own suits made, with the care and attention to detail that you would expect from a world class brand like Pal Zileri. In this edition of the magazine we have interviewed Bruno and he talks us through what to look for in a suit – and the subtle differences between Italian and Northern English tastes!
In another development, we have found that our ‘by appointment’ service is really starting to take off. We now have about a dozen customers to whom we travel with a broad selection of clothing to suit their requirements. If this is something that interests you, give us a call and we’d be happy to do a consultation to understand your tastes and bring you the best of the brands that we offer. We are also now offering an after-hours by appointment service, where we can open the shop for you to have a private viewing of our ranges, giving you a much more extensive service and broader range to choose from. Finally, can I take the opportunity to thank you all for your continued support and custom. It’s sometimes difficult to believe that we’ve been serving discerning people in the area (and beyond!) for twenty five years – and a good number of you have stuck with us from the start. With that, I’d like to wish you all the very best for the forthcoming festive season – and we look forward to seeing you at Scruples soon!
Scruples magazine is published by Jordan Communications, design and production is by BrandSpankin’ -3-2008. Photography by Daniel Scanlin of Hayhurst’s Camera Shop, Nelson. www.jordan-comms.co.uk www.brandspankin.co.uk © Jordan Communications
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VEni, Vidi, Vici Bruno from Pal Zileri measures up!
With 36 years experience, genial Italian, Bruno Magnaguagno, is the tailor from Pal Zileri behind the Scruples’ made-to-measure service. Liam Cowling was keen to hear how Italian style is winning the day in Lancashire. t can’t have escaped the notice of Scruples’ I customers that the Barrowford business is providing a bespoke suit tailoring service – and the exquisite Pal Zileri suits have been winning the hearts and minds of discerning customers with a taste for luxury. The tailor behind this service, Bruno Magnaguagno is happy to tell us that the demands of east Lancs customers aren’t too different from their Italian counterparts.
“The style is sometimes different - sometimes not so different. But believe me, I find that Scruples’ customers generally like the Italian fitting. Maybe not to the extreme, but they like the Italian fitting because they like the style and maybe a little bit more comfort, as the shape works very well on the body - especially jackets which are a little bit shorter currently, but they like this. I always ask customers if it is OK, because the idea of comfort for the English customer is slightly different to the Italian idea of comfort.”
Pal Zileri have made a name for themselves over the last three decades by quietly pushing the values of their brand without recourse to gaudy, showy displays of here-today-gone-tomorrow advertising. The company has instead relied in large part on word-of-mouth recommendation that has come about through their onus on quality. The official company line is that quality should be ‘the distinguishing mark of all our actions, our competitive edge, and the basis for every investment.’
It seems that this commitment has born fruit, as since 1970 Pal Zileri has become a world leader in the menswear sector. Consequently, Pal Zileri lays claim to the notion that its attire is “the expression of today’s ‘Made in Italy’, which succeeds in combining both creativeness and research”. And thanks to their specialised production logic, the brand has managed to extend the availability of a level of quality and luxury previously only available to the elitist market. This is born out by Bruno’s Magnaguagno’s experience. He was interested in tailoring from a young age and started to work in a tailor’s shop when he was just fourteen. He owned his own tailor’s shop by the time he was twenty and spent the subsequent twenty years perfecting his art. A career change at 40 saw Bruno join Pal Zileri, but what was it that attracted him to them? “Maybe the first reason was that I had such a lot of experience as a tailor and I wanted to put that experience into a big company. This is because as a small tailor you are limited in what you can do, but in a big company you can put your experience into many, many different areas.”
where people like to have great level of service. This helps them because they can benefit from advice and experience in terms of choosing the fabric, the particular style and the detail, or the collar and lining. Buying a made to measure suit has to be about getting a great service, because the people are working only for you, with your personal fitting and with your personal requirements.” So what should you look for in a suit, what is a hallmark of quality? “There are two different ways to understand this really. One is where you see what you wear - you see the silhouette and everything should be proportionate with your physical character, especially for you. “
Bruno outlines the process that is required to complete a Pal Zileri suit – and he explains that the suit passes through ‘a chain’ of people. “I will try to explain - but it’s a very big factory, as we divide every jacket into 165 operations. So there will be 165 people who will have their hands on your jacket during the process, this ensures that when it is finished it is very good. Because at the end of our process we spend a lot of time and a lot of those people are working only to check the quality, only for this.
“But also touch is important – it should feel good - especially when you put the jacket on, you have a nice sensation, because it’s made specifically for your body and to fit in with your personality. Some people prefer it a little bit tight, some like it a little bit loose – everyone has a different idea. And my job is to understand this idea and prepare a suit exactly like you want.” So what happens to your Pal Zileri suit from the point where you’ve had your appointment with Bruno and you’ve been measured – what happens during the production process? “The process for made to measure starts from getting the right proportion, the right fitting and the right style. We prepare the order and send it to Italy, where every different measurement is put into the computer and a personal pattern for the customer is generated. “The trial suit we have at the Scruples shop is exactly like the model we have in our computer, so we take the alterations from the trial suit and put them directly on the computer and it prepares the personal fitting for the customer – two buttons, three buttons, a certain style of lapels etc, etc. - whatever the customer prefers.
However, Bruno enthusiastically points out that he was especially drawn to Pal Zileri above others. “Pal Zileri is all about tradition and style. Tradition, because we use the old tailoring system, exactly like when I was in my own tailor’s shop. We retain this even though it is more industrial - because there are a thousand people working here, so it’s a big company. Yet we still use the same system with horse hair on the chest - natural materials - so it is very, very nice from this point of view.” “It’s also about style, because in our label we are in the men’s world and we are a fairly recent brand – so we have a young look. You can still find the tradition in the young look, it’s fashionable, but it’s classic. Classic with a twist!” Clearly Bruno’s enthusiasm tells you that from a tailor’s point of view Pal Zileri ticks all the right boxes. But what about those of us who aren’t experts – what should we be looking for when we consider buying a made to measure suit? “We have two types of made to measure. One is where someone needs a made to measure, they are very tall or have some particular physical attribute. The other area is maybe now the most numerous,
“After that we cut the suit, and the fabric is put into production and is made with the particular character needed to respect what the customer requires. Although not always a hundred per cent, because to service every idea sometimes is very strange believe me! “But what we can do, we do with great pleasure – and after 3 or 4 weeks we deliver the suit to the shop. Generally the shop will check the suit because we need to make sure the customer is happy, because sometimes they ask for a more Italian type suit which is more fitted, but when they get it they may find the fit too tight. But generally the shop check everything - we leave just the hemmed trousers unfinished. “In every shop we have available more or less a hundred kinds of fabric and every season we send the new choice and styles. So every season, if I’m not here every shop is OK - they have the new style ready in the shop. We do this for shirt fabric as well as suits. “We don’t produce the fabric, but we only select the best fabric from around the world. Generally it’s Italian and English.”
“Also because we work by hand, you know very well when you work by hand it’s not like working by machine, where every piece is exactly the same – because if you work by hand it can not be exactly the same, it is impossible. But maybe customers don’t see this level of detail.” Clearly the process of production presents a series of challenges to ensure excellence – however, Bruno sees the production as a means to deliver exactly what the customer wants. “Every customer is a challenge. You meet the customer and try to understand what he feels, what he wants - because when the customer is happy, I am happy. My biggest problem is that when I meet a customer I have a fairly short time to understand what it is that the customer wants. I talk with him and get a rapport whilst I’m in the process of taking the measurements – so taking the measurements is also when I try to understand what he wants. This is the most important job because when I understand very well my job will be fine, it is easy if you know what you want. My big challenge every time is that immediately, I must connect with the customer.” It’s tempting to ask which customers have presented the biggest challenge – I’d heard that Bruno was good at spotting anomalies and true to form when he measured me, he mentioned a slight misalignment of the shoulders from an old sporting injury. One thing that is very clear is Bruno’s diplomacy – he’s loath to be critical and despite my probing he won’t spill the beans. He points out that he notices people who have played rugby and often spots their sporting
injuries, but is quick to add, that the typical ‘rugby build’ often has most to gain by having a made to measure suit. Having failed to illicit who the difficult customers are, I adopt a different tack and ask who are the best customers that Bruno has ever worked for? “We can not speak by name, but we dress many big football teams and a certain motor racing team they’re the first in the world, but I can’t give you the name! I’ve also worked with many politicians and also some actors. “Our ethos is that we are reluctant to name our clients, but besides discretion, we don’t simply want to show off the ‘best customers’ to invite people to dress like them - we would like to dress everyone well – and according to their own tastes. “So our marketing is not so loud - we prefer people to talk and say we’ve been to Pal Zileri, then they pass it on, we’re not so fast like many new brands, they come in very fast but that is not our system we work with our quality.”
Scruples work very well with us because they believe in style and quality - so this is important for us To some it may seem incongruous that Italian style should find a home in east Lancashire, but the popularity of Scruples’ Pal Zileri made to measure service would seem to prove otherwise. So how does Bruno see the relationship with Scruples developing, would he like to see more Northern men with a bit of Italian style? “Scruples work very well with us because they believe in style and quality - so this is important for us. The way of thinking in this part of the world is a little bit different to the Italian idea, but of course the Scruples team are based in this area, so they are the point of contact between Pal Zileri and the customer, so they are very important. And, they believe in our brand - so they are good guys. They work very hard and every season they increase the number of suits that we make for their customers. And when we’re here it’s like a team – Pal Zileri, Scruples and the customer – and that’s why we all work very well together.”
Justin is from Gisburn in Lancashire and he runs a business called Birchall Catering Supplies. When he was growing up he was a good friend of Jan’s and consequently he’s been a Scruples’ customer since he was a teenager! He bought his first item from Scruples when he was just sixteen years old – he recalls with some fondness that this was a pair of Ciao jeans which were £70 – a small fortune to a young lad back then, in fact the equivalent of about 3 weeks of his wages! Justin is pictured wearing his new Pal Zileri madeto-measure suit, the materials of which are wool, silk and cashmere. He is also wearing a Pal Zileri waistcoat and shoes by Jeffery West.
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we got sole
Now one of Scruples most popular footWEAR brands, Jeffery-West have come a long way since their early days in Northampton. Here Guy West talks to Sean Smith about HOW IT ALL STARTED and his extensive shoe collection ark Jeffery (pictured top right) and Guy M West (pictured top left) have been friends
since childhood, when West’s father ran a hotel and restaurant near Northampton and Jeffery’s father, a local shoe manufacturer, was a regular patron. According to West, the pair were about 15-years-old when they first started to talk about going into business together. “Mark and I had always wanted to go into business,” explains West. “We could see all the manufacturing facilities around Northampton but they weren’t necessarily doing the kind of shoes that we wanted. We used to customise shoes, buy up rejects and samples from some of the factories in the county, and we’d put straps on them or paint spots on
them, whatever it took really. And we went down to do a couple of market stands at Kensington market in London.” “We struggled for a bit and then eventually found someone to start making our designs for us, when I was 21 and Mark was 22. We had a friend who was a cutter but he’d do it at night, after he’d finished his proper job. We had a separate closing room, so we’d have them made and we’d go and pick them up and then at 12 o’clock at night we’d be putting them in the cartons ready to send to the customer. We really had to do it the hard way when we first started. “We finally stopped working for other people and set Jeffery West up in 1987,” he adds.
Did you have an idea of what would become your USP at that time? “We always wanted to do something different using that tradition of Northamptonshire making, but giving it a more contemporary feel,” says West. “We certainly wanted to do something slightly different. We didn’t want to go into the market place and just do a brogue for example – because the factories in Northampton were obviously making fantastic normal brogues already. So it was no use just doing that. “I suppose it was a bit like the old modernist thing, where the mods took Italian influences and did them in a very British kind of way. We were using that very British manufacturing base but giving it a very
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contemporary feel - albeit a British contemporary feel, not an Italian one, obviously.” When they were setting up the company, the pair made a conscious decision to play to the strengths of what remained of the British shoe manufacturing industry in the early Eighties. “In Northampton, most of the bottom end and even most of the middle market had gone by the time we set up - most of it had gone by the Seventies. It was mostly the welted manufacturers that were left and a few very good quality cemented makers - and it was one of them that we started working with. “That whole injection moulded plastic sole thing, that was long gone in the UK. It went to Spain and Portugal, and now it’s in China and the Far East. What happened in the UK footwear industry in the Seventies happened in Spain and Portugal, and then Italy.” Production in this country here has gone back to the quality market? “Exactly,” replies West. “Factories with a good reputation, producing good quality shoes. People look at the prices and think they’re expensive but if you know what goes into shoes, you understand that you’re buying into quality and, bearing this in mind, they’re not expensive. The expensive shoes are the ones that are made in China and slapped together but they still charge you 90 quid.” However, despite the undoubted quality of the footwear they produced, the Jeffery-West brand wasn’t an overnight success. West, however, remembers the early years of the company with obvious affection. “For the first five years, we didn’t take any money out of the business at all,” he reveals. “We both worked, self-employed, for other people, as well as doing our own designs. All the money that the business made went back into it. We started to get more involved and the business grew. We’ve always grown – every year since then. We’ve always grown in an organic kind of way – a self-financing way really.” The pair opened up their first shop in Northampton 16 years ago, but their first mainline shop, in London Piccadilly, opened in 1998. It was the first time they had been able to present their work as a complete collection. “We wanted the customer to be able to see what Jeffery West was all about, to get the vibe of the shop, to see our influences, hear the music. Someone can walk through the doors of the shop and instantly say, oh yeah, I get what these guys are all about. It’s very, very important.” How long does it take from a shoe being designed to appearing in the shops? “All shoes are based on a form, which is called a last,” says West. “We work with Michael James, who is a last manufacturer, and so we make all our own lasts. “Unfortunately in the shoe trade, copying and plagiarism is rife. People will buy a shoe from a shop, they’ll squirt in the model clay and just steal the shape. We work on ours, so sometimes it’ll take up to a year just to get the shape right. “As you know, we work six months in advance anyway, so at the moment we’re looking at next spring/
summer. You get the order, you’ve then got to make the shoes, and the shoe-making process is about 1214 weeks. It’s a long and involved process. “It’s a very human business. A lot of it is done by eye, a lot of it is done by hand, so there will be some mistakes but we’ve been working with our suppliers for years. They know what they’re doing. We have a benchmark of quality that we expect and our manufacturers know that.” Although he’s unsure that there is any such thing as ‘a typical Jeffery West customer’, West believes that the brand does attract a certain kind of customer. “There are lots of different kinds of Jeffery West customers,” he decides. “Obviously it’s a bloke, because we only sell men’s shoes. Often, it’s someone who is running his own business or someone that has reached a certain level within a company. And he’s someone who appreciates quality who understands the manufacturing process, who understands that the cheapest isn’t necessarily the best.
really like their clothes, they appreciate quality just as much as people in London. But in London we sell a lot more black shoes - probably because of business. We’ve got quite a lot of guys who work in the City, who want something a little bit different but they’ve still got to conform. “A guy running his own business in Manchester or Leeds, obviously there are times when he needs to conform but day to day, he can dress how he wants. If you’re in the City and you’re running your own business, you’re going to meetings with the banks, you’ve still got to conform every day of the week.” West sees the Jeffery West brand developing over the next five years in the same slow but sure way they have grown the business so far. “We’re doing a little bit more export,” says West. “We’ve just taken on Holland and Belgium and they seem to be doing quite well there. The accessories are all a particular look that fits in with everything else we’re trying to do. I’d like to sell to the States, now that the pound is coming down against the dollar. Who knows? We’ve got to see if we can help the balance of payments.” And how are you weathering the economic downturn?
If you’re used to wearing nice suits and nice clothes, you’re not going to go and spend 40 quid on a pair of plastic shoes. “And also, it’s someone who has a bit of individuality about him as well. Someone who does want something that’s a little bit different. “Anybody can put some bells on their shoes. Our customers want something different but reasonable. Much as I love Churches and Crockett & Jones – they’re beautiful shoes – that’s not us. We try to take that whole tradition and twist it, warp it. And our customers appreciate that. Our moccasins, they’re made in Italy and they’re made by hand – as opposed to being squirted out of machine in Vietnam, for example.” How do retailers like Scruples fit into what you’re doing at Jeffery West? “With the climate as it is at the moment, I think the most successful independent retailers, like Scruples, are trying to buy quality. They’ll look at the collection and they’ll try to buy some slightly different pieces, and look for quality. It’s not just about buying on price. There are loads of blokes who are looking for shoes made from leather, who appreciate the fact that they’re made in England, they’re made by hand – all those things.” Do you see a difference in the buying habits of men in the north and those in the south? “There’s a crossover,” says West. “We get a lot of people who come to London on business and they’ll do their shopping while they’re there. Certainly in Manchester and Leeds there are a lot of chaps who
“Fingers crossed, at the moment, we’re doing okay,” says West cautiously. “It is a worry for us, sure, it’s probably going to affect all of us, but I think people go back to quality. “Rather than buying something throwaway, they’ll come back and think ‘I want a nice pair of English-made shoes that are a bit different but I’m still going to be able to wear them this time next year. And if I want to get them repaired I can send them back to the factory and get some life out of them rather than thinking, oh I’ll just chuck them away after three months. “I think there’s a case for that. I’m not arrogant enough to say that we’re going to easily weather it. But we have to be independently minded, like Scruples. We have to offer the customer something different, something interesting, something high quality, at a reasonable price for what it is. “Some people might think it’s ridiculous spending £230 on a pair of shoes, but each to their own. If you’re used to wearing nice suits and nice clothes, you’re not going to go and spend 40 quid on a pair of plastic shoes. For your own self-esteem, if nothing else. If the worst came to the worst, you’d get your old pair repaired. “I’ve got every pair of shoes that I’ve had, since I was 13. Apart from trainers – they’ve been chucked out because I only use training shoes for training. All my decent shoes, I’ve pretty much got all of them. I’ve got my first pair of Crockett & Jones still, that my dad bought me. After that I used to buy shoes from a shop in Northampton called Foot The Bill, I’ve got some of those still. “But the Jeffery West stuff, I’ve probably got about 80 pairs.” Do you have storage issues Guy? “I have my garage. Or the bottom of my wardrobe, they usually end up in a big pile there.”
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GET KNOTTED Over the early years of this decade the wearing of ties has fallen out of favour. Even in business, many men wear suits, but an open collar. However, all this is set to change in 2009, as ties will make a welcome return. The move back to neck wear has been driven by younger men who have been wearing skinny ties, but this has started to move through the age ranges and extend beyond just business and formal attire. Consequently, most designers and brands are currently expanding their ranges and this is reflected by the broad selection we can offer you at Scruples. The rule of thumb is to experiment with colour and prints â€“ be bold, but most of all get knotted!!!
BIRTHDAY SUIT TO BUSINESS SUIT Whether you’re Aries or Pisces, Cancer or Capricorn – your birthday is something you want to shout about. And what better way to treat yourself than get down to Scruples to see what’s in store? With our wide range of suits and accessories we can dress you from head to toe – from birthday suit to business suit.
“Les has looked after my personal and business finances for 20 years. He knows me, he knows the business, he knows what I need and just as important, he knows what I don’t need.” Stephen Collins, Scruples
“Before I even step into the shop, Stephen has already put to one side the suit and shirt he knows will work for me. And he is always bob on!” Les Nutter, Cassons
Made to measure solutions for you. Just like Scruples always have the perfect tailoring solution for you, we at Cassons provide tailor-made solutions for all of your financial matters. We have a team of advisers who will give you independent advice on accounting, investments, tax planning, pensions and business protection. But what is special about our service is how we adapt it to suit you, your family and your business. Please give me a call to discuss how we can tailor-make a financial solution for you.
Les Nutter Call me on 0845 337 9409 Email email@example.com www.cassons.co.uk
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STEP ON UP visitors to Scruples will have seen our newly R ecent refurbished first floor. We felt that it was important to
create a space specifically where our customers could come to feel comfortable and relaxed when they are considering buying a new suit – so we’re delighted with the outcome. We have a wide range of suits from brands such as Hugo Boss, William Hunt and of course, our Pal Zileri made to measure service. So whether you want to buy a good business suit, or you’re looking for something extra special for your big day, you can come and take your time in a relaxed setting, have a coffee and make sure that you make a considered choice. Scruples staff – Stephen, Jan, Ryan, June (pictured), Emma (pictured), Georgia and Oliver - will be on hand to advise and help you in your decision. Besides having between them decades of menswear experience, they can each give you a unique perspective ensuring that you’ll be looking your best. We’re very conscious that a satisfied customer comes back and it’s for that reason, we’re grateful for your business to date, but also that’s why we want to ensure your Scruples experience continues to be as pleasant as possible. We’re very grateful to all those who helped us put this vision into practise – especially Mick Kimber of Carpet’s Direct who produced and fitted our bespoke Scruples branded carpets. To date, we’ve had great feedback from customers who’ve used the new facility and – it goes without saying – we look forward to seeing you there soon!
All types of commercial groundworks and civil engineering • Road and Sewers • Septic Tanks • Land Drainage • Bulk Excavation • Foundation • Concrete floor slabs - pre cast or in situ • Flagging, kerbing, block paving and tarmacadam
Improve the appearance and value of your property • Natural stone paving - random or course • Pre-cast concrete paving • Block paving and cobbling • Tarmac laying • Foundation and floors for extensions or out buildings • Septic tanks and land drainage • Excavations for ponds and water features • Personal and professional service and design advice given
Customers include Barratt, Lowry, Lovell, Wainehomes and many other national organisations.
Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Tel: 01282 870491 Mobile: Clark - 07808 330176, Simon - 07739 262451, Paul - 07802 238448 Office 4 & 5, The Rock Business Centre, Keighley Road, Trawden, Lancashire. BB8 8AP
Bough Gap Farm We currently have 3 available properties in our stunning Bough Gap Farm development. Bough Gap is set in the beautifully scenic Trawden Valley between the villages of Trawden and Laneshaw Bridge, and within walking distance of historic Wycoller. Addtionally, the immediate area is served by three very good junior schools Each 2000 sq. ft. barn conversion boasts four bedrooms, two with ensuite bathrooms. These luxury living spaces benefit from truly impressive lounge areas and high spec interiors. There are also a range of outbuildings and parking with gated entry. With early involvement potential you could be the proud owner of a fabulous home with a bespoke feel.
Email: email@example.com Tel: 01282 870491 Mobile: 07808 330176
H UMBERSTONES Jewellers
At Humberstones Blackburn, our Fine Jewellery and Luxury Watch Gallery houses an unrivalled range of international brands including Girard-Perregaux, Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Ebel, Baume & Mercier, Tag Heuer and Mont Blanc in an inviting and opulent setting, using the finest timber, glass and stainless steel. The Showroom has been split into two areas, one dedicated to diamonds, Jewellery and Mont Blanc and the other to fine luxury wrist watches. At Humberstones Barrowford, the showroom has been created from a bare shell which has allowed us to create something completely new, exciting and different. From the reserved free parking at the rear, you enter into the new showroom and the immediate impact is of a spacious, relaxed, light, airy environment.We feature burled elm hand crafted display cabinets which complement the vast array of jewellery, diamonds and watches on display. A beautiful Mont Blanc black and white cabinet features the finest writing instruments, leather goods and wrist watches where you will be served from granite topped serving desks whilst relaxing in comfort in sumptuous cream leather chairs. Discreet consultation areas ensure optimum privacy while perusing ranges, with expert advice on hand to guide you in your decision and offer in-depth and insightful information on the pieces presented.
Most of our pieces are hand-made, often to individual specifications, in yellow gold, white gold or platinum. Similarly, our own workshops make anything to a customers needs from photographs, drawings or other references supplied. We also specialise in the re-setting and re-cutting of stones into modern, more brilliant and brighter cuts to realise the full potential of a stone. Humberstones bespoke service does not end there. Customers are welcome to view loose diamonds in the shop and go on to choose single or multiple stones to be set in a mount of their choice. Naturally, Humberstones offer a generous part exchange policy, comprehensive valuation service and independent certification. For the past half a century we at Humberstones have been successful in supplying luxury jewellery gaining us a flawless reputation.
Humberstones 84 King William Street Blackburn Lancashire BB1 7EA
Humberstones 2 The Fountains Barrowford Lancashire BB9 8LQ
Tel: 01254 690996
Tel: 01282 616104
AVAILABLE AT SCRUPLES
AIM Applications can provide you with any steel frame staircase and balustrade solution â€“ whatever your requirement. Unlike many of our competitors we have the skills, knowledge and expertise to design and build your custom staircases, whether for your business or your home. Whether you want a spiral staircase for your home - or cool, minimalist glass and steel stairs for your business, weâ€™d love to help you.
Unit 1, Briercliffe Business Center, Burnley Road, Burnley, BB10 2HG T: 01282 412706 F: 01282 424880 E: firstname.lastname@example.org
This is not just inn food, This is Spread Eagle Inn, Sawley food...
Sawley, Nr. Clitheroe, Lancashire, BB7 4NH. 01200 441202
AVAILABLE AT SCRUPLES -38-
5 King Edward Terrace, Gisburn Rd, Barrowford, Tel: 01282 699797 5a Clifton St., Lytham St. Annes. Tel: 01253 795 000
PAUL & JO SISTER
individual, relaxed, informal, spontaneous. creative contemporary photography As a valued customer of Scruples, we are offering you a FREE photo
session rrp £50 and a fully framed 10"x 8" desktop image of your choice rrp £95.
Contact the studio to redeem your voucher.
portraits weddings commercial
call: (01282) 871600 email: email@example.com visit: www.createstudios.co.uk Nicola Holding, Create Studios Ltd, 107 Albert Road, Colne, Lancashire BB8 0BT
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Be miles ahead of the Joneses Bespoke Home Automation • • • • •
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Your home, your business
Keep us front of mind and we’ll give you peace of mind. Residential
At Petty we have 80 years of experience serving the needs of the people of East Lancashire – and we are Pendle’s only chartered surveyors. To reassure you further we’ll offer you a comprehensive and innovative marketing service to help sell your property – even in the present economic climate, selling your home may not be as difficult as you fear. Please contact a member of our dedicated sales team to enquire how our extensive Part Exchange Register can help you.
Our commercial property division have advised a wide range of business clients, handling acquisitions and disposals by sale or letting within the main commercial sectors of industrial, office, investment and retail properties. Our highly experienced team has first hand knowledge and comprehensive data of both local and regional markets and our reputation for personal service and objective advice, means we offer a seamless service to business clients.
Petty residential and commercial property solutions. NELSON Tel: 01282 616314
BARROWFORD Tel: 01282 615900
LETTINGS Tel: 01282 417775
BURNLEY Tel: 01282 415111
COLNE Tel: 01282 868686
COMMERCIAL Tel: 01282 456677
william hunt puts us in the PICTURE William Hunt Savile Row has become synonymous with effortless style and sophistication but now the label favoured by everyone from David Beckham and Gordon Ramsay is available at Scruples. Sean Smith talks to the man behind the label, William Hunt. Hunt had what he describes as ‘a W illiam very average upbringing’ in the North
Manchester suburb of Prestwich, where he developed a passion for the kind of sophisticated, self-confident style worn by brooding leading men like Robert Mitchum in the ‘Colorama Hollywood’ of the Fifties. “The first suit I ever did was heavily inspired by the Sharks and the Jets from West Side Story,” says Hunt. “The lead guy had a black mohair - a bum-freezer suit - real pinched trousers, a lilac shirt, a black tie, and coloured linings. “That was the first time I’d ever seen colour in linings. So I made that outfit myself, and wore it with a big quiff. And that was the start of my tailoring career. “I used to travel down to London every week,” remembers Hunt. “You’d get your stuff ready during the week and it was boutiquing – you’d go into Jones and you know, this is a world-famous store, and you say, I’ve got these this week, and they’ll say, give me two of those and three of those, and you’d just make little bits up for them and they’d buy them.
“You’re going out, and you’re out and about in the nightclubs, people see what you’re wearing and come up to you and say, I like what you’re wearing,” explains Hunt. “That sort of stuff has been a theme throughout my career, really. “I did some stuff with Spandau and met a guy called Chris Brigg who had a shop called Demob. It was the shop to be in, in those days. He came up to me, same thing, I like your outfit, where did you get it from? So I told him I made it and he says, okay, I’ll buy it off you.” How were you able to differentiate yourself from the crowd in those days? “That’s the hardest question in the world to answer. What made me different? I just was. I must’ve been because I was very quickly selling into the best stores like Joseph, and Jones, Demob and Robot in London. I just had the gumption to go out and do it, I think. I’m sure there are better designers than me who have not got as far. It’s just a question of getting on your pony and doing it.”
“You’d go back up north on a Tuesday and see, right, we sold all of that, so we need some more making up.” Despite the increasing success of his designs, Hunt was still paying his bills by working at an entirely separate day job. “I was balancing working on a building site as a civil engineer, and getting product made in Liverpool and Leeds – Leeds was the centre of tailoring at the time. It was a case of trying to keep a few quid coming in from my regular job and taking a punt on making stuff and taking it out to the stores.” When did you reach the tipping point where you were able to go into fashion full time? “I got caught,” replies Hunt, a little ruefully. “And I got fired. It came to a point where the fashion side of things was actually starting to pay. I actually sneaked out to collect something one day and pulled up at the lights right next to my boss. He said to me, I think we’d better have a chat.” Making the move to London in 1980, the young, free and single Hunt threw himself into the capital’s burgeoning club scene, where his talents were spotted by a highly fashion-conscious young band from North London named Spandau Ballet.
I think when you dress nicely, you’ve got the right to be just a little more confident It was around this time that Hunt had a chance encounter with Lenny Beige, and began making stage clothes for the raconteur and lounge singer, working to a brief of ‘Vegas gone wrong’. An adept spotter of young talent, Beige’s weekly club residency in Soho found Hunt working alongside the likes of Sasha ‘Borat’ Baron Cohen, Matt Lucas and David Walliams from Little Britain, and Guy Chambers, the man who wrote most of Robbie Williams’ hit records. Hunt has fond memories of it as a time when people “really used to make the effort to dress up”. You seemed to know a lot of the right people very quickly, but how long did it take for you to fully establish yourself in London?
“Are we established?” muses Hunt “I don’t know from inside, Paul Smith is very well established. Are we as established as Paul Smith? No, I don’t think so. We’re on Savile Row. I can put the telly on any night of the week and there’ll be presenters like Jonathan Ross and Graham Norton wearing our gear. Does that make us established? I don’t know.” William Hunt as a brand is characterised by a belief in what its founder calls “the theatre of fashion”, the idea that men who wear William Hunt suits immediately feel “two inches taller and seven pounds lighter.” That’s a great aspiration for a clothing label. “That’s what our stuff does,” says Hunt simply. “I’m not exactly the prettiest boy in the world and I’m certainly not the fittest, unfortunately, but I know when I put our clothes on, it’s almost like when you put on a pair of shoes that have a slightly bigger heel than you’re used to. You feel a lot taller. And I think when you dress nicely, you’ve got the right to be just a little bit more confident. “The whole aim is to make everybody, from the window-cleaner to the most famous guy in the world feel better when they’re wearing our clothes. And our clientele is lads, dads and granddads, it’s right across the board. We get fathers and sons in a lot.” Hunt’s client base has always included a fair number of well-known faces from the worlds of music (Spandau Ballet, ABC, Heaven 17, even Victoria Beckham in the Spice Girls movie, Spiceworld) and showbusiness (Jude Law, Eddie Izzard, the Right Honourable Tony Blair) but of late, he has become increasingly identified with adding his trademark effortless style to high-profile sportsmen – most notably with Ian Poulter’s famous Union Jack trousers and the Manchester United squad suit for the 2007 cup final. “Everyone’s the same. They’re people,” says Hunt of his more high-profile clientele. “It takes a lot to get me phased. When Clint Eastwood walked into our shop, I was pretty phased – and who wouldn’t be? And I was pretty phased when I met Tom Jones for the first time. Other than that, the way I look at it, everyone takes a pee in the morning, don’t they?” Hunt famously got the Manchester United job with the help of Gary Neville, when he was measuring the player up for his wedding suit. Although he says
he doesn’t get phased by customers, for a North Manchester lad like Hunt, surely doing United’s suits must have been quite a big deal? “That was very exciting,” admits Hunt. “It’s one of those jobs that came out of a challenge. There’s a chap I know who has a production source, for suiting. And he’s always been bugging me to work with him. And he’s saying to me, why aren’t you doing the United suits? And I said, because we’re not really set up to do 45 bespoke suits. And he said, but we are. So I said, alright, so we’ll do the United suits then. “And he said, you can’t do that. And I said, if I can get the job, you don’t charge me a penny. He’d had a few glasses of wine. As a very light drinker, I had my wits about me. We shook on it and I rang him at 11 o’clock the next morning, and said, right, we’re doing the United suits.”
“Now, Jack Nicklaus, Tony Jacklin, those guys were superstars. Tiger Woods is the only golfing superstar now, but even Bing Crosby looked like a superstar then. He wore a v-neck jumper and he looked comfortable. I bet he had Cashmere socks and underpants on. “I wanted our golf range to look like that, hence the trilby, because that’s what the best guys wore. It’s style from another time. Like all the stuff we do, it’s retro-based.” And where did the idea for Ian Poulter’s famous Union Jack trousers come from? “Ian Poulter asked me to make him a couple of outfits for the Ryder Cup,” says Hunt. “I didn’t know who he was, he was just a guy who played golf. I get this phonecall from him a week before the Open and I think, blimey, I’d better make that guy some gear, hadn’t I? I found an old flag in the studio and thought, that’ll do, Union Jack trousers. Away you go. Seven national newspaper front pages.
I don’t think you can plan inspiration. Your best ideas come out when you’re backed into a corner
“I don’t think you can plan stuff like that. I think it just happens,” he adds.
How closely do you take on the ideas of the players when you’re doing something like that?
How do you see what your doing developing over the next few years?
“That’s a club thing, so you’ve got to do something that’s going to suit the world, do you know what I mean?” replies Hunt. “Footballers today are like male models aren’t they? I’m 48 now and when I was 18, 19, 20, footballers were not good looking lads. Kevin Keegan was regarded as a bit of a hunk. Most of them were pretty average looking blokes.
“Slowly, with this recession,” laughs Hunt. “We’re just going to keep on track, I think. If you build it, they will come.
“Now they’re just these beautiful looking men, they’re incredibly fit and wealthy. So they’ve all got opinions and they’re all interested in style. Previously, the Alan Brazils of this world, they didn’t care. They wore what they were given.” He adds: “When we started dressing a very young and spotty David Beckham when he was playing for Preston North End, it wasn’t hard to make him look good. It’s good to have decent material to work with. If the person who wears it has a perfect 32-40 shape and they’re six-foot, it’s not difficult.” Recently, Hunt’s love of golf has led him to create an entirely new range of leisure clothing – named GolfSexy – applying the same exacting standards he applies to the high-end fashion coming out of his Savile Row premises. Although Hunt jokes “When I first started playing I thought, well, I can’t play very well, so I’d better make myself some outrageous clothes”, it’s obvious that he is as passionate about the clothing golfers wear as he is about the game itself. “That dressed-down Friday thing from America killed golf,” he declares, “chinos and stripy shirts, big and baggy stuff, what Americans consider is comfortable clothing. And the shoes have gone mad, they’re like trainers.
Would it be fair to say that you like to fly by the seat of your pants? “It’s the only way to do stuff,” he replies. “I don’t think you can plan inspiration. Your best ideas come out when you’re backed into a corner. You just keep your eyes and your ears open all the time, you keep looking, and the best ideas just come to you.”
“We don’t have any great plans to take over the world.” William Hunt’s collections are available in Scruples.
The Philosophy of William Hunt William Hunt has been a Savile Row landmark for over eight years – William himself has over twenty year’s experience as a definitive designer and tailor. This experience has seen William enjoy recent collaborations with David Beckham and most eye-catchingly with the golfer Ian Poulter (yes, those Union Jack trousers!). Indeed, this look has now been extended into William’s Golf Sexy range. William Hunt’s philosophy describes their tailoring as ‘synonymous with the theatre of fashion’ – this stated aim is to make the owner feel two inches taller and seven pounds lighter. The range was recently described as having been tailored with a woman’s eye and with a definitive focus on strength and leanness. In recent seasons William has sought influence from the attitudes and poses of Richard Gere in American Gigolo and Robert Di Niro as Max Cady in the remake of Cape Fear.
BRAND SPANKINâ€™ We are a creative marketing agency based in Lancashire. We design everything from logos and business cards through to websites and brochures. No job is considered too small, but we have the scale and experience to manage much bigger projects for your business. No nonsense, high quality design to make your business stand out from the crowd!
Call 01282 878 303 Email firstname.lastname@example.org Browse www.brandspankin.co.uk
AVAILABLE AT SCRUPLES -42-
CAD technology combined with 20 years of hands on experience to offer bespoke jewellery either from our creative team or from your own design vision. Designers, makers and repairers of fine jewellery. Our creative designers can transform your old jewellery into something new. Stockists of original Troll Beads
2 Ingham Street, Barrowford 01282 616 813 12 The Moors Shopping Centre, Ilkley 01943 817 614 Email: email@example.com Web: www.diamondjewellery.co.uk
Fendi Bvlgari Versace Sceye Rayban Miu Miu Prada Dolce & Gabbana Emilio Pucci Daniel Swarovski
AS OPTICIANS WE OFFER : EYE EXAMINATIONS NHS/PRIVATE CONTACT LENSES SEIKO LENS SPECIALIST ON-SITE LABORATORY 1 HOUR SERVICE AVAILABLE VAST SELECTION OF FRAMES & SUNGLASSES FROM LEADING DESIGNERS RIMLESS SPECIALISTS HOME VISITS
1a Gisburn Road, Barrowford. Tel: 01282 619618 1 Kirkgate, Settle. Tel: 01729 822356
TOUGH JEANS AVAILABLE AT SCRUPLES
At Charles Cameron, we offer you bespoke building solutions for commercial and residential properties. We can offer you the reassurance of knowing that we have decades of experience and so we can manage and deliver projects from your driveway to your roof! Additionally, we are conversion specialists who can offer you a full service, from extensive preparatory groundworks, right through to plant hire. With our commitment to excellence, why not call us to discuss your building requirements or conversion project?
Head Office: 01282 843105 Mobile: 07813 842363 07515 511973
Press Room is the new bar situated in the historic Burnley Mechanics Theatre. If you fancy joining us after a show, or for a business lunch, youâ€™re just the sort of discerning customer weâ€™re looking for.
Manchester Road, Burnley, BB11 1BH Call; 01282 664400 / 07720 710325
E C N A R A E CL E R T N E C
Scru is the clearance centre for Scruples â€“ located just 100 metres down the road from the Scruples shop at 101 Gisburn Road. Why not drop in and pick up a bargain? Fabulous designer clothes at prices that wonâ€™t break the bank
b r o w s e
ARMANI COLLEZIONI MOSCHINO CHEAP AND CHIC PAUL SMITH JUICY COUTURE AMANDA WAKELEY HUGO BOSS SCHUMACHER SEE BY CHLOE PAUL & JOE INTRODUCING FOR AUTUMN/WINTER: ODD MOLLY ESSENTIAL ALICE & TRIXIE 0039 ITALY Claire Heathcote continues to seek out the strongest branding. Delivering seasonal trend information and personal shopping advice with excellent service.
Private parking at the rear
42 King Street, Clitheroe
DESIGNER SHOES & BAGS
OUR COLLECTIONS INCLUDE: Marc Jacobs, Dolce & Gabbana, Paul Smith, Juicy Couture, Sonia Rykiel plus many more
Buy online@ www.poshu.co.uk WHALLEY, LANCASHIRE 01254 824925
AVAILABLE AT SCRUPLES
AVAILABLE AT SCRUPLES -54-55-
fire and security solutions Digital / IP CCTV
Security Tagging (EAS)
Tel: 01254 692121 www.catchpointuk.co.uk
Unit 1 Point Business Centre • Greenbank Road • Blackburn • Lancashire BB1 3EA
For clay pigeon shooting at its best!
Kelbrook Shooting School The Shooting Lodge, off Cob Lane, Kelbrook, Lancs BB8 7QH
Individual Instruction Organised Parties Company Promotions Entertainment Days Executive Days Fully automatic sporting, FITASC, Compak, Sportrap, ABT & High Tower Layouts Shooter Solo Delay available on all traps featuring the latest computerised technology A quality choice of guns both new & secondhand A varied selection of cartridges and shooting supplies Open Monday to Saturday 9am-5pm, Sunday 11am-3pm
Tel: 01282 861632 • Mob: 07831 351960
www.kelbrookshootingschool.co.uk • www.gunlists.co.uk
Pendle Narrowboats can fit out your new narrowboat or widebeam to your specific preference. With bespoke re-fit solutions too, we can offer you a full repair service and install handmade units and appliances. Whether you’re an ex-pat looking for a local base (that you can hire out whilst not in residence!) or you’re looking for an innovative business facility – give us a call and we’ll be happy to talk you through the options.
Call: 01282 614943 • Email: firstname.lastname@example.org • Web: www.pendlenarrowboats.com
Visit the newly opened Blissful Brides shop in Barrowford and we will ensure that your special day is full of memories to cherish. Besides a huge selection of beautiful designer wedding gowns, veils, tiaras, shoes and dolly bags, we also stock bridesmaid, flower girl, confirmation and christening dresses. In addition to our broad selection of wedding attire and accessories, we also have a fabulous range of special occasion wear to ensure that on your red-letter days you look divine. For weddings abroad, we can also provide carry on board cabin boxes. No more worries, your dress stays with you all the way.
106a Gisburn Rd, Barrowford, BB9 6EW Tel: 01282 690515
IT’S BLACK OR WHITE.
Alaska White or Santorini Black. Privacy glass. 20" alloy wheels. Ebony leather interior. Noble finish details.
TEST DRIVE A BLACK OR WHITE RANGE ROVER SPORT TODAY. Hillendale Land Rover Lomeshaye Business Park, Nelson, Lancashire BB9 6LL Tel: 01282 723 715 Fax: 01282 723724 e: email@example.com www.hillendale.co.uk
RANGE ROVER SPORT
RANGE OF FUEL ECONOMY FIGURES FOR RANGE ROVER SPORT MPG (I/100KM): URBAN 21.6 (13.1) - 12.4 (22.8), EXTRA URBAN 34.4 (8.2) – 23.7 (11.9), COMBINED 28.2 (10.0) - 17.8 (15.9), CO2 EMISSIONS 265 - 374G/KM.
Published on Nov 27, 2008