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the inflight magazine of air uganda part of the asante issue number 007 november - january 2012

your complimentary copy


EDITORIAL

Welcome aboard this Air Uganda flight and thank you for choosing to fly with us today

W

e are delighted to welcome you aboard this Air Uganda flight: the Wings of East Africa. We would like to extend our appreciation and sincere

gratitude to all our travellers as Air Uganda celebrates its fourth anniversary on 15th November 2011. Please sit back, relax and our crew will make sure you get to your destination safely and on time.

As the Finance Manager, I am responsible for the overall management of the financial operations of the company. The Finance department consists of 13 talented and committed individuals who work together to ensure that the financial goals of the company are met. The department is composed of two major functions: Financial Accounting and Management Accounting. The Financial Accounting function is responsible for recording company revenues and costs with the objective of preparing financial statements. The financial statements are prepared in conformity with International Financial Reporting Standards and the requirements of the Uganda Companies Act. The Management accounting function is responsible for the preparation of management reports and accounts. This involves in-depth analysis of each revenue stream and costs variances. In addition, the management accounting function is responsible for forecasting and budgeting for the company and investment appraisals. Management reports are for internal use and support decision-making by the management team.

Since its inception four years ago, Air Uganda continues to grow and the future holds more opportunities for expansion within the region, with Burundi being the latest addition to our ever-expanding network. The Finance department has supported this growth and continues to improve the delivery skills of the team to support the future expansion of the Airline.

Thank you for choosing Air Uganda, the Wings of East Africa.

Enjoy your flight. Evelyn Akol Ogwang Finance Manager


CONTENTS

10

The Wondrous Rwenzori – the Mountains of the Moon

18

Spice up your Holiday

24

Hot Air Ballooning

Experience the spectacular snow-

Explore the splendid Zanzibar Island,

Here is a fascinating journey into the

capped peaks, stunning glaciers,

edged with tropical, palm-fringed

achievement of man’s dream to finally

magnificent waterfalls, clear blue

beaches, a vibrant culture and spices

conquer gravity and soar like the birds.

lakes and unique flora and fauna

of the orient.

at Rwenzori, one of the world’s beautiful alpine places.

36

How to De-clutter your Life

38

Sweet Histories

42

Passion Flowers

Few plants hold such fascination

Do you wish you could feel less

Discover the fascinating stories

stressed? Need more time? Want

behind some of the world’s most

– for flower enthusiasts and non-

to feel happier? Simple – just de-

delectable cakes and sweets.

gardeners alike – as the orchid.

clutter your life! Here are some of the quickest and simplest ways.

The views expressed in this magazine should only be ascribed to the authors concerned, and do not necessarily reflect the views

Publishers: Editorial Director: Editor: Editorial Assistant:

Camerapix Magazines Ltd Rukhsana Haq Roger Barnard Cecilia W. Gaitho

either of the publishers or of Air Uganda. The printing of an advertisement in Asante

Senior Designer: Design Assistant:

Sam Kimani Fatima Janmohamed

does not necessarily mean that the publishers or Air Uganda endorse the company, product

Production Manager: Production Assistant:

Azra Chaudhry, U.K Rose Judha

or service advertised.

Editorial Board:

Rukhsana Haq Jenifer B. Musiime Regina Busingye


WELCOME ABOARD

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asante issue number 007 november - january 2012

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32

Beautiful Burundi

Richly endowed with wildlife, breathtaking

Dian Fossey – Defender of the Mountain Gorillas

We reflect on the life of the late Dian

mountainous landscapes and rolling hills,

Fossey who drew worldwide attention to

impressive waterfalls, steep gorges, forests

Africa’s mountain gorillas.

… Burundi is certainly a place to behold.

your complimentary copy

Cover picture: Hippos spotted in Lake Mutanda, with spectacular Virunga Mountain Range in the background.

Photo © Camerapix Magazines/David Pluth

Regulars 1

Editorial by Finance Manager, Air Uganda

4

Asante News

46

Air Uganda News

47

Air Uganda Flight Schedule

48

Healthy Travelling

49

Route Map

50

Offices

51

Tips for the Traveller

52

Crossword Puzzle & Sudoku

Above: Traditional boats on Lake Bisina, one of Uganda’s many lakes.

ASANTE meaning ‘Thank you’ in Kiswahili is published quarterly for Air Uganda by Camerapix Magazines Limited P.O.Box 45048,00100 GPO Nairobi, Kenya | Tel: +254 (20) 4448923/4/5 | Fax: +254 (20) 4448818 E-mail: creative@camerapix.co.ke Editorial and Advertising Offices: Camerapix Magazines (UK) Limited | 32 Friars Walk, Southgate, London, N14 5LP | Tel: +44 (20) 8361 2942 Mobile: +44 79411 21458 | E-mail: camerapixuk@btinternet.com Air Uganda, Kampala Sales Office | Tel: +256 (0) 412 165 555 or (0) 312 165 555 E-mail: info@air-uganda.com or rbusingye@air-uganda.com Correspondence on editorial and advertising matters may be sent to either of the above addresses. ©2012 CAMERAPIX MAGAZINES LTD All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced by any means without permission in writing from the publisher. All photographs by Camerapix unless otherwise indicated.

Photo © Camerapix Magazines/David Pluth

the inflight magazine of air uganda part of the


asante news

Jiko – The Newest Addition to Tribe Hotel, Nairobi Tribe Hotel completes its last phase of opening with the launch of its signature restaurant, Jiko, on 17 October 2011. The new menu focuses on fresh, local, ingredients and playful presentation – an offering that lives up to Nairobi’s image as a modern, sophisticated and creative city. Following a substantial investment in the hotel’s main kitchen, Executive Chef Luca Molteni raises the bar with his creativity, flair, and love for organic ingredients. Having spent the past year sourcing suppliers and training his team, the fourth generation chef said of the new Jiko menu, “I always try to incorporate local and simple ingredients and turn them into something special. Cooking is my passion and my whole life.” Chef Molteni’s goal for Jiko is to create an intriguing menu with authentic, local ingredients such as mature grain-fed beef from Naivasha, and Daaga fish from Lake Victoria served with a fennel and orange salad and ugali-polenta. The seasonal menu features a brand-new decadent dessert offering with house-made sorbet and ice cream as well as a number of favourites from around the world. Jiko’s kitchen hosts a new barbeque technology called a vapour grill. The grill plate has a bottom drawer that stores water which vaporizes as the grill heats up, tenderising the meat and creating an even cooking surface. The restaurant’s private dining room and chef’s table invites guests to a creative culinary experience, with off-the-menu recipes from the Executive Chef, paired with wines selected by the restaurant’s sommelier. Website: www.tribe-hotel.com

Arts Festivals in East Africa By Grace Atuhaire.

Golf Course Hotel When visiting Kampala, whether it’s international-class accommodation you’re looking for or simply a first-class meal, the Gold Course Hotel is strongly recommended. The hotel is a 45 minutes drive from Entebbe International Airport and is handily situated close to Kampala’s Central Business District. Boasting a high level of comfort and hospitality, the hotel is ideal for business travellers, honeymooners, tourists, and all those who wish to have a memorable visit to the ‘Pearl of Africa’ – Uganda. The Golf Course Hotel offers wide choice of culinary experiences, with restaurants to suit all tastes from local delicacies to the finest international dining. Combine good food with magnificent scenery at the 7Hills Revolving Restaurant – the only revolving restaurant in East and Central Africa – or indulge yourself in tantalising steaks, ribs and Mexican dishes at the Silver City Spur (one of the Spur Steak Ranches). Savour the grandeur and charm of the Bamboo Terrace Coffee Shop or have a drink at the tranquil corporate Green bar. The Golf Course Hotel’s meeting facilities are ideal for international conferences, seminars, conventions, trade fairs and exhibitions, weddings and cocktails. Have a flutter at Casino Simba (and if Lady Luck is with you, walk away with some cash!). If you feel like watching a movie the adjacent Garden City shopping, banking and leisure centre will oblige, and there’s even a state-of-the-art Health Club just for you. Website: www.golfcoursehotel.com

Umoja Cultural Flying Carpet is a collaborative peace and development programme involving cultural institutions and talented young artists in eight different countries: Mozambique,

Judging from the number and popularity of the festivals that

Uganda, South Africa, Kenya, Ethiopia, Zimbabwe, Tanzania

now take place, the appreciation of creative arts is growing

and Norway. In each country Umoja is established through

steadily in East Africa. These festivals give a platform to visual

auditions to create a national Umoja Ensemble. All ensembles

artists, musicians and dance groups, among others, to display

and institutions cover areas from music, dance, circus and

their talent. September saw two festivals in Kampala.

acrobatics. Umoja aims to create togetherness. This is

The Bayimba International Festival of the Arts took place over three days at the National Theatre. This had three different

spearheaded by the African Umoja Festival. Zanzibar’s Sauti za Busara Music Festival (known as ‘the

stages which included the Youth and Hip Hop stage that featured

friendliest festival on the planet’) features a dynamic variety of

youths from many parts of Uganda, the Main stage that featured

African music with more than 400 musicians participating over

both upcoming local and international artists, and the Auditorium

five days. Every year during February the ancient walls of the Old

featuring a range of arts, from plays by the National Theatre,

Fort resonate as people come together in celebration. The festival

poetry by Lantern Meet of Poets, drama by Dr. Mercy, comedy

is supplemented with fringe events in town and across the island

by Theatre Factory and live classics by the Kampala Music

including a carnival street parade. Around eight groups perform

School. The festival featured international artists from Norway,

each day and big names rub shoulders with upcoming artists.

the United States of America, Tanzania and Malawi, along with local artists. The Bayimba Festival was followed by the Zuka Festival of

In 2011, there were 30 of the best groups of Zanzibar, Tanzania and the rest of East Africa, with another 10 groups representing Ethiopia, Mozambique, Zimbabwe, Zambia,

the Arts which featured five national ensembles (from Uganda,

South Africa, La Réunion, Madagascar,

Kenya, Tanzania, Ethiopia and Norway) which performed during

Mauritius, Ghana, Mali and Senegal.

the Umoja festival in the National Theatre. It also presented

Other East African festivals

a brand new show featuring 80 artists in the amphitheatre of

include Lamu Cultural Festival

Ndere Centre. Music and dance predictably took centre-stage

(Kenya), Street Cultural Carnival

but no one can deny the attraction that was offered by the circus

(Kenya) and the Laba Street

and acrobatic shows.

Festival (Kampala).

4 | asante | nov – jan 2012


Celebrating Four Years of Spreading our Wings

A

ir Uganda is proud to celebrate four years of

For the aviation industry, this is a very clear

service. It’s been a good four years since we

opportunity especially given the under-developed road

first leapt skywards and that journey has seen

and inter-country infrastructure. What we can offer

us continue upwards. To all those that nurtured our

today to East African travellers is convenience,

growth, we would like to say ‘thank you’.

comfort and making the most of their opportunities.

Air Uganda is the country’s carrier, underwritten

We thus focus on the larger purpose why people fly

by the Aga Khan Fund for Economic Development

– to spread ideas, to strike a partnership, to explore,

(AKFED). Air Uganda launched her first flight on

to connect with their loved ones.

15th November 2007 and has continually increased

We understand what our clients are passionate

its footprint in the East African region and Southern

about, hence our efforts to addressing these needs

Sudan, offering direct flights out of Entebbe to most

are not restricted to discounts but cover a great

of our destinations.

onboard experience and service, unrivalled on-time

The airline flies to seven destinations from Entebbe: Nairobi, Mombasa, Juba, Dar es Salaam, Zanzibar, Kigali and, recently, Bujumbura. This will increase Air Uganda’s flights to 92 flights per week. Air Uganda’s growing fleet includes two CRJ-200s and two MD-87s. The CRJ-200s are 50 seaters offering an all-economy class service, while the MD-87 have 99 seats with both Economy and Business class service. Air Uganda is also a member of Celestair Group, with sister airlines in West Africa – Air Burkina and Air Mali – and in Europe, Meridianafly. In its fourth year of service, Air Uganda continues to differentiate itself from other carriers by offering a reliable product with exemplary customer service and unrivalled on-time performance. In the past years

and departure schedules, the best deals, safety etc. We thus continually strive to offer innovative solutions that address our clients’ needs. The objective is to generate preference through initiatives which create affinity amongst travellers. The future is promising for Air Uganda and this promising future is a shared sentiment amongst staff. In 2012, the airline will focus on strengthening her position on all operated routes. We aim at breaking through the barriers of category stereotypes and consumer indifference by introducing a new dimension to a well structured market. In doing so, we offer a fresh evaluation of the existing alternatives. Our brand promise is to continue delivering a quality product to our customers both on ground and onboard. Air Uganda, The Wings of East Africa.

we have noticed a positive trend for air travel in East Africa with good customer service and time-saving

Jenifer B. Musiime

becoming key essentials to doing business.

Head of Sales and Marketing


Photo Š Camerapix Magazines/David Pluth

destination: uganda

8 | asante | nov – jan 2012


African Buffalo, magnificent yet unpredictable, in Kidepo National Park. Kidepo National Park is truly one of Uganda’s most spectacular scenery found in East Africa. The park covers 1,442 square kilometres in north-eastern horn of the country. Truly unspoilt, the park boasts varied vegetation consisting of montane forests, grassy plains, open tree savannah, dry thorn bush, thick miombo-like woodlands and koppies (rocky outcrops). Within the park lies Kidepo Basin in Mountaineous country, encircled by wooded hills and dominated by rugged savannah. One of the park’s appeal is its remoteness, guaranteeing a superb view of a great diversity of animal species including the cheetah, leser and greater kudu, giraffe, striped hyena and zebra amongst others and boasts a birdlist of over 475 species. nov – jan 2012 | asante | 9


adventure

Rwenzori THE WONDROUS

Photo Š Camerapix Magazines/David Pluth

The Mountains of the Moon by Peter Holthusen.

10 | asante | nov – jan 2012


adventure

A

little old man with an affliction that bent him double used to shuffle along the streets of Cambridge after dark with a twinkling lantern in his hand looking just like a gnome

straight from fairyland. His destination was St. John’s College, where he was a tutor and lecturer in geology from 1868 to 1877. I was to read about him one night when visiting the college for a lecture by the British explorer Sir Vivian Fuchs, and to learn that he was once a celebrated volcano expert called Professor T.G. Bonney. Naturally, the talk soon turned to the volcanic peaks and snow-capped mountains flanking Africa’s Great Rift Valley and it was from this moment as a young student that I gained a burning desire to visit the spectacular Rwenzori ‘Mountains of the Moon’ some day. It was my good fortune to finally fulfill this ambition in 2009. Located on the border between western Uganda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC), the Rwenzori Mountain range is one of Africa’s most breathtaking landscapes, providing outstanding views of glaciers and permanently snowcapped mountains just kilometres from the equator, where it is contiguous with the Virunga National Park in the DRC. Having the third highest mountain in Africa (Mount Stanley), after Kilimanjaro and Mount Kenya, the Rwenzori Mountains National Park covers nearly 100,000 hectares and comprises the main part of the mountain chain. The regions stunning glaciers, spectacular waterfalls and crystal clear lakes make it one of the world’s most beautiful alpine areas. The range is about 120 kilometres (75 miles) in length and 65 kilometres (40 miles) wide. It consists of six massifs separated by the tortured topography of extremely deep gorges: Mount Stanley (5,109 metres), Mount Speke (4,890 metres), Mount Baker (4,843 metres), Mount Emin (4,798 metres), Mount Gessi (4,715 metres) and Mount Luigi di Savoia (4,627 metres). Mount Stanley is the largest and has several subsidiary summits, with Margherita Peak being the highest point in the Rwenzori. The mountains formed about three million years ago in the late Pliocene Epoch of the Tertiary Period as a result of an uplifted block of crystalline rocks such as gneiss, amphibolite granite and quartzite, pushed up by tremendous forces originating deep within the earth’s crust. This uplift divided the paleolake Obweruka and created three of the present-day African Great Rift Lakes: Albert, Edward and George on the flanks of the Albertine (western) Rift of the East African Rift, the African part of the Great Rift Valley. They are located in an extremely humid area, and frequently enveloped in clouds. The Rwenzori or legendary ‘Mountains of the Moon’, a reflection of the mist-shrouded peaks of this rugged massif that tower almost 6,000 metres above the sea level, were given their mythical title by the Egyptian born Greek mathematician, geographer and astronomer Ptolemy in 150 AD, who referred to a snow-capped massif in the heart of Africa by the name of ‘Lunae Montes’, or Mountains of the Moon. These are now widely accepted to be the Rwenzori Mountains.

>> nov – jan 2012 | asante | 11


adventure

Spectacular snow-capped peaks, glaciers, V-shaped valleys, magnificent waterfalls, clear blue lakes and unique flora and fauna make the Rwenzori one of those wondrous places! most valuable heritage of all: a collection of vintage photographs of the expedition. Sella’s photographic work is conserved at the Museo Nazionale della Montagna, in Torino, and at the Istituto di Fotografia Alpina Vittorio Sella, in Biella, both in Italy.

Kilimanjaro and

Kitara was a very strong empire, attacking neighbours to expand its territory. They are a Bantu-speaking people who have lived

the precipitous peaks and glaciers of the Rwenzori offer some of the most challenging

adapted to the steep slopes and climate of the Rwenzori.

climbing in the

Due to their altitudinal range, and the nearly constant

world. Small

temperatures, humidity and high insolation, the mountains

wonder, the

outstanding range of species, many of which are endemic to the Albertine Rift and bizarre in appearance. The natural vegetation has been classified as belonging to five distinct zones, determined

Ugandan massif is becoming an increasingly popular destination for

largely by altitude and aspect. The higher altitude zones, covered

experienced

by heath and Afro-alpine moorland, extend from around 3,500

mountaineers.

metres to the snow line and represent the rarest vegetation

Photo © Peter Holthusen

Mount Kenya,

on the mountains for many generations, and whose culture is

support the richest montane flora in Africa. There is an

types on the African continent. Significant species include the giant heathers, groundsels, lobelias, ericas and other endemics. In terms of fauna, the Rwenzoris have been recognised as an important bird area with no less than 217 bird species recorded to date, including a good population of Verreaux’s eagle, the Rwenzori hill babbler, dusky flycatcher, and the magnificent Lammergeier or

by the expedition of Henry Morton Stanley in 1889 (the

(Bearded Vulture), a number expected to increase as the park

aforementioned clouds are considered to explain why two

becomes better surveyed. The montane forests are also home

decades of previous explorers had not seen them). On the

to threatened species such as the African forest elephant,

morning of 7 June 1889, the expedition’s second-in-command

hyrax, leopard, eastern chimpanzee and L’Hoest’s monkey. The

and its military commander, William Grant Stairs, climbed to

endangered Rwenzori black-fronted or red duiker, believed to be a

3,254 metres (10,677 feet), the first known non-African ever

very localised subspecies or possibly a separate species, appears

to climb in the range. The first ascent to the summit was made

to be restricted to the Park. Although the flora in the Rwenzori is closely related to that of

Inspired by Stanley’s last wishes, the indefatigable Duke led an

other East African high mountains it is much more luxuriant here.

expedition to the Rwenzori and scaled 16 summits in the range,

This is mainly a result of the high and regular rainfall in the area.

including the six principal peaks. One of them, Mount Luigi di

While we know the distribution of vegetation is for a good deal

Savoia, bears his name.

determined by the altitude, at higher elevations, certain genera

Already an accomplished mountaineer and Arctic explorer,

of plants grow unusually large. Most surprising are the giant

his expedition made the first ascents of all the major snow and

heathers, senecios and lobelias, to which Karl Olov Hedberg,

ice-capped peaks, mapping their complex geography, and leaving

the eminent Swedish botanist, taxonomist and professor of

them with Italian names. The highest peak was reached on 18

systematic botany at Uppsala University referred to as ‘botanical

June 1906. His team consisted of mountain guides, biologists,

big game’. As the altitude increases, temperatures drop and the

surveyors, a geologist, photographers, and some 150 Ugandan

air grows thinner, provoking intense radiation, even on clouded

porters. The photographer Vittorio Sella left us perhaps the

days. During the day the incoming radiation of ultraviolet and

12 | asante | nov – jan 2012

in Africa (Mount Stanley), after

accounts date back to18th century. This was the time Bunyoro

by Prince Luigi Amedeo, the Duke of the Abruzzi in 1906.

highest mountain

his photographs. and Bamba peoples of the Rwenzururu Kingdom, whose historical

The first modern European sighting of the Rwenzori was

Having the third

The Makerere University in Kampala also holds a selection of The Rwenzori Mountains are the homelands of the Bakonjo

>>

Left:


adventure

infrared light is fierce, while at night the outward radiation under a clear sky has a considerable cooling effect. The equatorial location dictates marked diurnal variations in temperature, whereas the seasonal differences are less important. There is no shortage of water in the Rwenzori; the highest reaches of the mountains are covered by snow fields and glaciers which provide a permanent source of water for the surrounding areas. Yet several members of the afro-alpine family bear a remarkable resemblance with species of flora that normally thrive in desert climates. The reason lies in their similar water economy. Although abundantly present, water is not always readily available to the afro-alpine plants when they need it. The nightly frosts affect the sap transport in the plants, and the intake of water by its roots. As the day begins, the air temperature and radiation level rise rapidly, placing strenuous demands on the exposed parts of the plants. It is vital to meet the transpiration demands of the leaves, and maintain a proper water balance. To counter the effects of freezing, the afro-alpine plants have developed the insulation systems which give them such a striking appearance. As a rule, these adaptive trends become more prominent as the altitude rises. As a consequence, there are five different vegetation zones found in the Rwenzori Mountains. These are grassland (1,0002,000 metres), montane forest (2,000-3,000 metres), bamboo/mimulopsis zone (2,500-3,500 metres), the heather/ rapanea zone (3,000-4,000 metres) and the high afro-alpine moorland zone located at (4,000-4,500 metres). A subject of considerable concern in recent years has been the

Photo © Peter Holthusen

impact of climate change on Rwenzori’s glaciers. In 1906, at the time of Prince Luigi Amedeo’s famous expedition, the Rwenzori Above:At higher elevations certain genera

had 43 named glaciers distributed over six mountains with a total area of 7.5 kilometres, about half the total glacier area in Africa. By 2009, during my own expedition to the Rwenzori less than half

of plants grow

of these survived, on only three mountains, with an area of about

unusually large.

1.5 kilometres. Recent scientific studies such as those by Dr.

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General Email: inquiries@nftconsult.com Website: www.nftconsult.com

nov – jan 2012 | asante | 13


adventure

Right: Interestingly, more people

Fact File: Rwenzori Mountains National Park

visit the Rwenzori to explore and view the

A

UGAND

fasinating

Getting there:

vegetation.

The Nyakalengija trailhead lies off the Fort Portal road, 22 kilometres (13.5 miles) from Kasese, the nearest town to the Rwenzori Mountains National Park. Kasese is located at the western end of the Uganda Railway to Kampala and Tororo, and is approximately 350 kilometres (220 miles) by road, west of Kampala, Uganda’s vibrant capital. Location: Close to Kasese, on the border between Uganda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC), with heights of up Photo © Camerapix Magazines/David Pluth

to 5,109 metres (16,761 feet) at 0˚23’09”N, 29˚ 52’18”E. Time: GMT+ 3. When to Go: Avoid the rainy seasons at all costs. The Rwenzori is one of the main watersheds of the Nile receiving rain throughout the year, but exceptional amounts fall from March-June and September-December. Where to Stay: • Hotel Margherita (www.hotel-margherita.com).

located three kilometres (1.75 miles) west of the town of Kasese on the road to Kilembe. There are 36 rooms

>> Richard Taylor of University College London have attributed this to global climate change,

available, ranging from two executive suites to their

and investigated its impact on the mountain’s vegetation and biodiversity. In general, though, glacier growth and recedence are not necessarily tied to trends in temperatures as much as trends in precipitation. The Rwenzori Mountains National Park is managed by the Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA), which was established in August 1996 by the Uganda Wildlife Statute, and formed by the merger of the Uganda National Parks (UNP) and the Game Department. The UNP was the management authority at the time of United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization inscription of the Park as a World Heritage Site. The Park is considered a model for integration of cultural values into the Protected Area Management framework as an innovative approach to resource management, the first of its kind in Africa. As a result the local communities have embraced collaborative resource management initiatives. Given its significance as one of the biodiversity hotspots in the Albertine Rift, various local and international NGO’s have

The preferred base camp for many trekking the Rwenzori,

standard double and single rooms. • African Pearl Safaris (www.africanpearlsafaris.com).

There are also a number of camps on the Rwenzori ‘Circuit’ route, with adequate facilities for hiking, trekking and mountaineering, the majority of which can be booked through African Pearl Safaris.

• Nyabitaba Camp at 2,600 metres above sea level. Nyabitaba Camp is one of the oldest in the Rwenzori and was once the homestead of a local chief who grew tobacco here. • John Matte Camp, named after a founding president of the Mountaineering Club of Uganda, is situated on a grassy hillside on the banks of the River Bujuku.

supported the management and conservation of the site. Key challenges to address

Not to be Missed:

include the occasional illegal felling of trees, snow recession due to global warming,

• Rwenzori Mountaineering Services

human population pressure adjacent to the mountains and management of waste

(www.rwenzorimountaineeringservices.com).

generated through the increasing number of tourism operations.

Whether you are an experienced climber or casual

The Uganda Wildlife Authority is addressing the above threats through dedicated

day-hiker, the Rwenzori Mountains National Park

resource protection, community conservation education, research and ranger-based

offers visitors a unique experience of an afro-montane

monitoring, ecotourism and transboundary initiatives with the DRC. The combination

rain forest, but you will be well advised to source the

of spectacular snow-capped peaks, glaciers, V-shaped valleys, fast flowing rivers with

expertise of a reputable local mountaineering service or

magnificent waterfalls, clear blue lakes and unique flora and fauna make the Rwenzori

tour operator such as Rwenzori Mountaineering Services

one of those wondrous places you should ‘see before you die’ !

in Kasese.

14 | asante | nov – jan 2012


nov – jan 2012 | asante | 15


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'VIEXMRK3JJMGIW8LEX;SVO

4)6*361%2') *962-7,-2+7 9 08( P.O. BOX 14016, Plot 8 Hannington Rd, Kampala Uganda (Opposite Serena Hotel)

+256-312-261774 +256-792-261774 +256-772-261775 JE\ +256-312-261775 IQEMP performanceafrica@gmail.com XIP


NAIROBI, KENYA


destination: zanzibar

Spice up your

HOLIDAY

Photos © Camerapix

Zanzibar! If the name conjures up a tantalising sense of mystery, of a hidden past, of spices of the orient, of a vibrant culture set in an island just off the coast of East Africa and edged with tropical, palm-fringed beaches – then you will not be disappointed, reports Asante.

K

nown as the Spice Island because of its long-standing

Zanzibar, and its smaller neighbouring island of Pemba, become

clove industry, this low-lying stretch of land – crab-

independent again.

claw shaped 37 kilometres (23 miles) off the coast of

For many years, and particularly in the 18th and 19th century,

Tanzania – has always exerted a powerful fascination as well as

Zanzibar was a centre for the iniquitous slave trade, which, at its

influence on the mainland. There is an old saying: ‘When they

peak saw as many as 30,000 slaves a year passing through the

pipe in Zanzibar, people dance on the Lakes (a reference to

island. It has been estimated that in the 100 years, which ended

lakes Victoria and Tanganyika).

in 1886 more than one million men, women and children were

Zanzibar has a long and colourful past. Traders plying the Indian Ocean in their dhows first stopped there some 3,000 years ago, and evidence of early settlers is still being unearthed. Travellers, traders, raiders and colonisers from around the

sold in the Zanzibar slave market. Some relics of the slave trade remain today as a stark reminder of this harmful trade. Zanzibar today is thus the result of many influences and cultures, and this is reflected in its way of life and in the

world have been drawn to Zanzibar throughout the centuries.

charming Stone Town, whose narrow streets are best explored

Sumerians, Assyrians, Egyptians, Phoenicians, Indians, Chinese,

on foot. Stone Town is the only functioning historical town in

Malays, Persians, Portuguese, Arabs, Dutch and the British

East Africa, much the same today as it was 200 years ago.

have all set foot on the island’s beautiful white beaches, each

The island is also at the centre of the clove trade (Zanzibar and

leaving behind a different legacy. The island united with mainland

Pemba providing 75 per cent of the world’s crop) and the air is

Tanganyika in 1964 to become part of the independent state of

often redolent with the aroma of spices.

18 | asante | nov – jan 2012


destination: zanzibar

Above:

Now that Air Uganda flies to Zanzibar, getting there is easy.

The House of

Alternatively, there are regular connecting flights from Dar es

Wonders, seen

Salaam, Mombasa and Nairobi and a sea crossing is available by

from the Palace

hydrofoils – speedy and comfortable – from the Malindi Wharf on

Museum.

the Dar es Salaam main seafront. Dhows are a slower and less comfortable alternative when the wind and tides are right.

Above right:

Zanzibar offers a wide range of accommodation from luxury to

Sunset from

inexpensive guesthouses and self-catering cottages. When one

Mbweni Ruins.

has had enough of the beach, the town boasts a number of fine old buildings, well worth visiting.

Right:

In the 19th century Zanzibar Town was the starting point for

A Zanzibar door,

most major expeditions into the mainland interior; Burton, Speke,

delicately carved

Grant, Livingstone, Stanley and Kirk all came there to assemble

in wood and

provisions and hire porters and guides to take them along the

decorated with

caravan routes. So what better place than the Livingstone House

brass studs.

to begin an exploration of the island? The house is located off Malawi Road 300 metres before the Gulioni Bridge. From there, head north by foot (the best way to explore the narrow, winding city streets), keeping the ocean to your right. You’ll soon pass the luxurious Bwawani Hotel overlooking Funguni Creek. Going west from the hotel and along the water’s edge lies Dhow Harbour, a bustling hub of sailing activity. From there you can watch sacks of cloves being loaded on to waiting ships or dhows. The harbour is also the place to hire a ride to the offshore islands or, for true adventurers, a lateen-powered trip all the way back to the Tanzanian mainland. From the harbour continue southwest along Kisangani Road, past the University of Dar es Salaam Institute of Marine Science and the Port and Customs offices, until you reach Beit el Ajaib, also known as the House of Wonders. Positioned behind Jamituri Gardens – a favourite venue for an evening stroll and site of a mouth watering night food market – the Palace was constructed in 1883. The four-storied building is the tallest in Zanzibar and today is the headquarters of the ruling Zanzibari political party. Located next to the House of Wonders, across Sokokuu Street, is the Arab Fort, built by the invading Omani Arabs

>> nov – jan 2012 | asante | 19


destination: zanzibar

Zanzibar today is thus the result of many influences and cultures, and this is reflected in its way of life and in the charming Stone Town. >>

in 1652 after they defeated the Portuguese. Surrounded by

Just 150 metres south of his home, where the Tumekuja

towering orange stonewalls, the fort was later used as a prison,

School now stands, is the site of a former slave pit, where men

Above left:

barracks and finally repair shop for the short-lived Bububu

like Tippu-Tip made their fortunes, causing untold misery along

The House of

Railway. The fort has undergone a recent face-lift.

the way.

explorer David Livinstone.

Considered by many to be the heart of Zanzibar, Stone Town

Continue south along Kaunda Road, past the People’s Gardens

is the oldest section of the town, made up of winding lanes and

on the left and State House on the right. At Creek Road turn left,

unique stone houses.

and then look left for the National Museum. Behind the museum

Above:

the oldest carved door on the island can be found, dating from

Sunset at Ras

1694.

Shangani.

The Arab homes that form the backbone of Stone Town are as much a part of the island’s culture as the dhows that ply the local waters. It is said that the Arab owners used to vie with one

The site of the old slave market lies north of Haile Selassie School along Creek Road. In 1873, Sultan Sayyid Barghash

Opposite top:

prohibited the sale of slaves from Zanzibar. The same year

Cloves are a

Made from teak and set with great brass studs, each door, with

Anglican Bishop Steere laid the foundation stone for the Church

major cash crop

surrounding frame and lintel, is elaborately carved.

of Christ Cathedral in the old slave market. Inside the church the

in Zanzibar,

A good place for Arab doors is near St.Joseph’s Cathedral.

altar occupies the spot where the whipping block used to be. Take

providing 75

From the Arab Fort head due south. Rather than attempting to

a moment to notice the massive marble pillars (accidentally placed

per cent of the

follow the street signs, search the skyline for the cathedral’s twin

upside down) and the quality of the stained glass windows. A small

world’s crop.

white spires.

crucifix at the left hand side of the chancel is made from the wood

another in the extravagance of their building. The crowning glory of each stone home is the front door.

Today the narrow streets are filled with bazaars, women draped in black buibuis, shops, tailors at treadle-powered machines, playing children, jewellers, carpenters, local sweetmeats, hawkers

of the tree under which Livingstone died in 1857 – a tribute to the man for whom the abolition of slavery meant so much. From the Church of Christ Cathedral continue north along

selling curios, old men and the coffee seller rattling by with his

Creek Road for about 150 metres to the island’s bus station.

cups and liquid energy. Beautiful mosques – such as the Aga

Just beyond the buses lies the market, opened in 1904.

Khan – are suddenly revealed around an unlikely corner.

Shopping begins at 7.30 am and continues until 6 pm, with a

When the claustrophobic lanes of Stone Town begin to close in, follow the setting sun to the town’s (and island’s) most

long break at midday. For the perfect picnic getaway on a sunny tropical afternoon,

westerly point. There, along Shangani Street south of the External

the tiny deserted islands lying a few kilometres off the western

Communications Building, sits the Africa House Hotel, once the

tip of Zanzibar Town are made to order. They can be reached

British Club. Redolent with cedar wood and teak, marble floors,

by an organised visit through the tourist office or, for the more

this is the best place to come for sundowners before dinner.

adventurous, by hired dhow from Dhow Harbour where the cost

Only a building away sits a reminder of darker days – the house of the notorious slave-trader Tippu-Tip. Of Arab descent, but

depends on your bargaining skill. Zanzibar Island has fine sandy white beaches on which to relax

with an African great-great grandmother, his dealings in ivory

– the most peaceful ones being along the eastern shore, which

and slaves made him a powerful figure in East and Central Africa

also has a number of picturesque fishing villages, remnants of an

during the 19th century.

earlier, simpler era.

20 | asante | nov – jan 2012


destination: zanzibar

Fact File: Zanzibar Area: It is 984 square kilometres.

AR

ZANZIB

Official language: Both Swahili and English are the official languages. Official currency: Tanzanian Shilling (TSh).

If you have enough time whilst in Zanzibar, and want to take in

Time zone: It is +3 GMT.

some of the finest game-watching in the world, or climb Africa’s

Climate: Enjoys tropical climate largely dominated by the Indian

highest mountain, then a trip to Tanzania’s Northern Circuit –

Ocean monsoons. The rainy season is from March to May.

Arusha, Ngorongoro, Serengeti, Manyara, Tarangiri, Kilimanjaro

Temperature ranges from 24-27°C.

and Moshi – is recommended.

Hotels and restaurants: As an island destination, Zanzibar

Drive from Dar es Salaam or take a flight to Kilimanjaro

offers a wide array of accommodation including hotels, guest

International Airport, situated between Moshi (gateway to

houses, beach resorts and island getaways. Restaurants offer

Kilimanjaro) and Arusha – a good starting point for a safari

locally available foods such as seafood delicacies.

to the game parks, of which Ngorongoro Crater and the vast

ATMs: Available at various sites in Zanzibar.

Serengeti offer unrivalled opportunities for game viewing.

Credit cards and cheques: Traveller’s cheques are accepted at

For the physically strong and active tourist, a climb up Kilimanjaro, 5,894 metres (19,340 feet), is an experience well worth the effort. The mountain rises out of the dusty savannah plain, its dome-shaped ice-capped peak seemingly floating in the sky. Situated just three degrees from the equator, this, the highest freestanding mountain in the world, holds one-fifth of all Africa’s ice upon its slopes. In three days you can climb, as it were, from the equator to the Arctic, through montane forest, moorland heath, alpine desert to snow and ice. At the summit it seems as if all Africa lies at your feet. More than 5,000 people a year, young and old,

large hotels and restaurants. They can be exchanged for local currencies at Bureaux de Change provided one has a passport and the cheques are properly signed. Credit cards can be used at larger establishments; however it is advisable to use cash for payments. Calling code: Dial + 255 24, followed by seven-digit local number. Transport: Zanzibar Airport provides both local and international flights. Zanzibar enjoys a thriving sea transport network. Local buses (known as daladalas), taxis and minibuses are available throughout the entire island. It is possible to hire a vehicle provided one has an International Driver’s Permit.

now hike up Kilimanjaro to gain the coveted certificate, which

Whilst hiring ‘motorcycles’ travellers are advised to ensure

proves that they have stood on the Roof of Africa.

a crash-helmet for safety purposes.

Tanzania is a huge country with a number of game reserves

Communications: Nearly all internet and mobile companies

in the west and south. A number of tourists visit these areas,

served in Mainland Tanzania are available in Zanzibar.

and accommodation tends to be provided by luxury camps more

Entry requirements: A passport and a yellow fever card is

than lodges, but for those who want to see the wildlife virtually

required by all. Zanzibar is part of Tanzania so visa

undisturbed by mankind, these are magical places to visit. The

requirements are the same. Prior to visiting, contact the

huge Selous Game Reserve, accepted as a World Heritage site

Tanzanian Embassy, High Commission or Consulate in your

in December 1982 can be reached in a day by road from

home country, or any Tanzanian representative nearest to you

Dar es Salaam.

concerning visa.

It is amongst the largest protected areas in Africa with

Health: It is best to contact a travel health professional well

relatively undisturbed ecological and biological processes,

before travelling, concerning immunisations prior to visiting

including a huge range of wildlife. The reserve has one of

Zanzibar. It is advisable to ensure

the highest concentrations of elephants, black rhinoceros, cheetah, giraffe, hippopotamus and crocodile, amongst many other species. It also has an exceptionally high variety of habitats including Miombo woodlands, open grasslands and riverine forests. Many visitors are now choosing Tanzania for its unique attractions, excellent facilities and friendly people. Together,

precautionary measures against malaria. Customs: As Zanzibar is largely Muslim with a rich Swahili culture, it is best to dress modestly. Smoking in public places as well as nude and topless sunbathing is prohibited. Non-Muslims are not allowed to enter any of Zanzibar’s many mosques unless invited.

they add up to a splendid (and usually hassle-free) holiday. Air Uganda flies to Zanzibar every Thursday and Sunday.

nov – jan 2012 | asante | 21


Why Send your

Child to an Early

Childhood Development Centre?

M

any parents send their children to an Early Childhood

then you should create areas within the house that are safe for

Development (ECD) centre because they do not

children’s play/learning. Ensure that the children have a variety

have a maid at home who can look after them when

of toys and learning aids to help them develop a variety of skills,

they go out for work. Others send them to an ECD centre

including basic construction. And since many parents do not

because they would like to get their children exposed to a more

have the time and resources to develop arithmetic and language

stimulating environment in the centre as opposed to what is

skills, then an early childhood development (ECD) centre can

at home. Some send their children to ECD centres because

help – but it cannot take the place of the family.

they lack time and resources to help their children with specific

In recognition of this, the Aga Khan Foundation (AKF) in East

skills such as basic writing, basic arithmetic and language

Africa has for the last two decades supported the establishment

development. But very few know that children at an ECD centre

of pre-schools through its Madrasa East Africa programme.

also get exposed to their peers and the routines, and acquire

The rationale behind this is to improve the wellbeing of

confidence, creativity, self reliance, imagination and problem-

children from marginalised communities in a child-friendly

solving skills which they need for later learning.

environment, improving access to, and retention of, information

Again, many of us don’t know that it is a basic human right for every child to develop. This is recognised in the convention of the rights of the child, regardless of gender, geographical

and promoting community understanding of the value of early childhood education for future learning at an affordable cost. Studies conducted in the region indicate that preschool

location or abilities. Perhaps what parents need to know is that

experience and the preschool teaching and learning environment

before sending a child to an ECD centre they need to know

make a difference in the cognitive development of young

clearly why it is important for a child to be at such a centre.

children. Children who have gone through the Madrasa pre-

It is true that even at home learning can take place, but maybe at home one needs to choose the people (domestic

school programme tend to perform better than those children who do not attend pre-school.

workers and relatives) with whom the child will spend much

Visit the Madrasa Resource Centre office in Uganda at

of the time. Here the choice of a caregiver for your child is

Mengo, Madrasa Resource Centre Kenya in Mombasa and

extremely important. Some caregivers are not good; some

Zanzibar Madrasa Resource Centre to learn how this has

may end up contributing to the loss of the child’s sense of

been done and also offer some support to take the programme

discipline. But should you choose to have the child at home

to scale.

22 | asante | nov – jan 2012


feature

i o t A r H

BALLOONING

From time immemorial, man dreamed of joining the birds – free from the bounds of gravity. The first lighter-than-aircraft flew more than 1,000 years ago, as Bob Smith reveals.

S

lung beneath a gigantic sphere

myth and history are steeped in tales

scientists were leaping from towers and

in an outsized picnic hamper, a

of winged warriors and magical flying

battlements, armed with faith and clad

flight in a hot-air balloon is an

beasts. The Greeks believed that the

in wing-like cloaks and capes. Inventive

ethereal journey where time and the

sun moved across the sky in a chariot

but fantastic contraptions of all shapes

world drift slowly by on eddies of the

pulled by winged horses.

and sizes were launched from high

wind. The spell is broken only by the

vantage points. However, balloons were the first

occasional rasp of dragon’s breath as

flight has come to us through the legend

jets of flaming gas boost hot air into the

of Daedalus and Icarus. Fleeing from

means by which man finally conquered

vast envelope which hovers above.

Crete with wings made of feathers

gravity and soared like the birds.

sealed with wax, Icarus flew too close to

Fascinating evidence suggest that

to reach heaven by building the tower

the sun, which melted the wax, and fell

the Peruvian Nazca Indians actually

of Babylon, he has always striven to

to his death into the Mediterranean Sea.

travelled this way during the first

Since biblical times, when man tried

Photo © Camerapix

Evidence of this early obsession with

touch the stars. Numerous gods and

Attempts to defy the laws of gravity

century BC. An excavated piece of Lima

goddesses, angels and spirits have all

have been endless throughout history.

pottery which appears to depict

been attributed with the power of flight;

During the Middle Ages, monks and

a primitive form of balloon – a peculiarly

24 | asante | nov – jan 2012


Photo © Came rapix

feature

shaped envelope with an extremely

kilometres (200 square miles) of the

the only human flights during the 13th

precarious-looking swinging hammock

plain of Nazca.

century were taken on a kite. Marco

below – produced a starling result.

These marks produced much

Polo observed the weather forecasting

In 1975, the International Explorers

imaginative speculation – some believed

techniques in Cathay at this time –

Society created a balloon based on this

earth had been visited by aliens from

a dispensable and very reluctant

design – Condor I – and it rose to a

outer space. But in 1975, all became

peasant would be sent up into the air.

convincing 91 metres (300 feet).

clear. When viewed from above, these

If the kite rose, the ships were allowed

symbols took on the shapes of birds

to set sail; if it crashed, sea journeys

wonderment is the ‘Nazca symbols’.

and directional markings for air travel

would be postponed.

Scientists were confused for years as

– the Indians had flown.

Perhaps a cause for greater

Writing at the time of Galileo, Cyrano

to the meaning of mysterious geometric

Unfortunately, the tower jumpers

lines and random piles of stones which

of the Middle Ages waited in vain for

travels to the sun and moon. In it he

were scattered over 518 square

the Nazca balloon to be rediscovered;

spoke of ‘flasks of vaporous dew’ which

de Bergerac published a fantasy about

>>

Balloons were the first means by which man finally conquered gravity and soared like the birds. nov – jan 2012 | asante | 25


feature

>> would become lighter with the heat of

the roof of his mistress’s house, leaving

the design of the hot-air balloon. On

the sun. He was certainly on the right

the machine there ready for a quick

10th October 1960, American Edward

track, for his ‘fiction’ was the basis for

departure. In 1865, in New York, a

Yost created an air heater which ran

later theories that ultimately led to the

couple actually did take to the skies in

on propane – a substance which was

flight of the hot-air balloon.

order to exchange their marriage vows.

storable as liquid, cheap, and safe.

On 21 November 1883, watched

In 1766, Henry Cavendish identified

The material for the envelopes,

by a crowd of more than 400,000

gas hydrogen – combustible, and lighter

meanwhile, would ideally be very light,

– virtually the whole of Paris – a French

than air, it was a dangerous but popular

strong, resistant to heat, and yet soft

physicist, Jean-Francois Pilatre de

substance for balloonists. Thus were

and pliable for ease of manoeuvrability.

Rozier, and a nobleman, Marquis

Jean-Pierre Francois Blanchard and

The new non-rip nylon was perfect for

Francois d’Arlandes, took off from the

American physicist Dr.John Jeffries

exactly these reasons.

Bois de Boulogne in a ‘Montgolfiere’.

able to make the first hydrogen-filled

They soared into the history books

balloon crossing of the English Channel

sophisticated recreation, but it has also

with a flight lasting almost half an

in 1785. This feat almost ended in

sparked off many a competitive sporting

hour, reaching a height of 900 metres

disaster, as their balloon repeated

event. In 1973, the first World Hot-Air

(3,000 feet).

missed waves by inches, and only

Ballooning Championship was held in

just made the French coast after

Albuquerque, New Mexico, attracting

widespread reaction of euphoria

every surplus ounce of weight had

60 entries. Competition tasks vary in

– ballooning would be a fast convenient

been thrown overboard –including the

kind from races to tests of technical

and exciting way to travel for everyone.

unfortunate M. Blanchard’s trousers!

skill. One might enter the ‘Ribbon

This incredible feat provoked a

Romance would advance in leaps and

Thankfully, the 20th century produced some much-needed improvements in

Race’ – two balloons are attached to each other by a 61-metre (200-foot)

ines/ rapix Magaz Photo © Came

26 | asante | nov – jan 2012

Karl Ammann

Photo © Camerapix Magazines/ Karl Amman n

Photo © Camerapix

bounds, because ‘the lover’ will fly onto

Today, ballooning remains a


feature

long ribbon which must remain intact

the largest passenger balloons in the

for as long as possible – or perhaps

world, capable of carrying 10 people

one of the last horizons for man to pit

the ‘splash and Dash’, where the

and a pilot. The balloons are made by

his wits against. In the last three years

competitors must fly over water, gently

Cameron Balloons, the world’s largest

ever-more ambitious and enterprising

touching the surface as many times as

manufacturer and the sole supplier to

challenges have been taken up with

they can.

East Africa.

Lindtrand in the forefront. In 1998,

The most bizarre task is probably the

Ballooning is now an increasingly

Hot air balloon travel in now seen as

together with millionaire businessman

‘Flying Farmer’, which is held during

popular tool for commercial

Richard Branson, he launched a

the Irish National Championships at

exploitation. One modern-day pilot,

Christmas time assault on the ultimate

Ballymahon in Country Longford. Firstly,

who has his head in the clouds but his

challenge – to be the first to navigate

the balloonists hunt for a farmer.

feet firmly on the ground, is ex-Fleet

the globe by balloon. They set off from

Having found one, they must convince

Street journalist Peter Mason. He

Morocco, crossed 19 countries and

the hardworking fellow of the wisdom of

quit the hurly-burly of daily papers for

travelled 20,116 kilometres (12,500

leaving his tractor and climbing into the

the quieter but more exciting world of

miles) before adverse winds in the jet

balloon. The competitors are awarded

commercial ballooning, founding the

stream forced them to ditch in the sea

one point for a farmer, two points for a

successful Aerial Display Company.

off Honolulu.

priest, and three points for a bishop. Ballooning has also become a popular

Working with the Financial Times

Then, in March 1999 came the

newspaper and experts from Thunder

triumphant voyage by Bertrand Picard

pastime for the layman, sometimes

and Colt factory in Shropshire,

and Brian Jones. Piloting a massive

offering a spectacular touch to a

England, he helped to design and fly

balloon named Breitling Orbiter they

holiday. East African balloon safaris,

the world’s largest newspaper, a 30-

successfully landed in the east of Egypt

for example, are unique, offering an

metre-tall hot-air balloon in the shape

having broken all previous records for

incomparable view of the expansive

of a rolled copy of the Financial Times.

duration and distance, flying for a total

landscapes of Kenya or Tanzania,

The balloon is a testament to the

of 19 days, 21 hours and 55 minutes.

and giving the visitor the chance to

state-of-the art computer technology

They had become the first men to

experience herds of elephants and wild

now used in the industry.

circumnavigate the globe non-stop

buffalo from the best vantage point

It took four months to build,

covering a total distance of 42,810

– the air. This spectacular trip is ended

and during the final four weeks of

kilometres. The actual circumnavigation

with a champagne breakfast – what

construction, more than a dozen

took 19 days, one hour and 49 minutes

better way to celebrate a successful

people worked around the clock hand-

to complete.

trip than with a bottle of bubbly.

painting the 20,000 characters of text

The scene looks set for another

Such is their popularity that East

that make up the front page symbol of

Branson bid to break the record for he

Africa claims two ballooning records

the balloon. On its completion Mason

is a man who never gives up. And when,

– the greatest number of commercial

took the intriguing skyborne monolith

after his last attempt ended in failure, he

passenger flights in the world, between

to Japan, where he piloted the

said emphatically: “I’ll be back,” you can

4,000-5,000 people every year, and

inaugural flight.

be certain it was more than just ‘hot air’.

nov – jan 2012 | asante | 27


destination: burundi

Burundi eautiful

Photos © Wikimedia

It comes as no surprise to find first class French restaurants, lively bars and beaches thronged with revellers in Burundi, the tiny country in Africa’s Great Lakes region that is indeed an up and coming tourist destination, says Corrine Archer.

B

distinctly Burundian character these

Above:

‘Republic of Burundi’, is a country

business, starting with its capital,

new venues are now frequented by the

Central

located in the Great Lakes region

Bujumbura. Set amid dramatic scenery

mushrooming number of foreign

Bujumbura,

on the shores of sparkling Lake

aid workers and well-heeled Burundians.

with Lake

of lowlands, mountains and plateaux. It

Tanganyika, Buja – as it is affectionately

Now tourists form part of the clientele

Tanganyika in the

known – is surrounded by majestic

list.

background

urundi, officially known as the

in the continent of Africa – a country is often referred to as the ‘Switzerland of Africa’, a term also applied to neighbouring Rwanda. Burundi gained independence from their Belgian colonisers in 1962 but sadly found itself in political unrest soon after spanning several years. Despite a tumultuous political past, Burundi has achieved a remarkable turnaround, due in part to its citizens simply tiring of constant conflict. Presently, Burundi is a presidential representative democratic republic headed by President Pierre Nkurunziza, duly elected in 2010 and marking a culmination of the peace process. 28 | asante | nov – jan 2012

And beautiful Burundi is back to

mountains. Internet and mobile phone

Burundi is a land of plenty and the

networks are all over the city and

restaurants in Bujumbura abound with

Opposite above:

privately-owned guest houses, many

fresh fruit and vegetables, some of

A view of

of them famous for their gastronomic

the choicest steaks in the world and

Bujumbura

delights and lakeside views, are giving

delicate fish such as sangala, which is

Beach, west of

the established hotels a run for their

found only in Lake Tanganyika.

the city

money. The entire capital can be

Eating out is one of the great

crossed in a matter of minutes, so if

pleasures of being in Burundi. With

you don’t fancy one place it’s easy to

their tantalising array of imaginative

move on to the next.

dishes, the restaurants can rival any of

Burundians from the diaspora who

the eateries in Paris or Brussels. The

have been returning in droves when

cuisine is heavily influenced by Belgium –

peace returned to Burundi, have

crisp frites dipped in mayonnaise, great

set up businesses and opened new

slabs of beef, spicy sausages, salade

restaurants and bars. Inspired by ideas

liegeoise, carbonnades flamandes,

gleaned from abroad, but retaining a

blanquette de veau, waffles and heavenly


Photo © Wikimedia

destination: burundi

At weekends, friends and families

black peaks when the hot ball of sun

head for the beach to eat brochettes

descends behind them every evening.

of fish or meat, accompanied by the

The residents of Bujumbura, confined

ubiquitous cassava dish known as

to their enclaved city for so many

sombe and maybe a glass of banana

years, can now venture out into the

wine. Yes, landlocked Burundi has a long

breathtaking countryside which for many

and sandy beach just outside Bujumbura

young people had remained a mystery,

comparable with many seaside

almost another country.

destinations. Strolling through the fine

Ascending north from the hot plain

white sand fringing the endless blue

of Bujumbura into the mountains, the

waters of the lake, you can convince

smooth road twists and turns as it

Next page from

mousse au chocolat. All washed down

climbs through lush banana plantations

top: Drumming,

yourself that you’re looking out onto an

with Primus or Amstel beer of course

usually

– almost a staple in Burundi.

ocean. There are even waves.

and maize fields, and the climate

accompanied by

The long-established Hotel du Lac

dance, forms

Tanganyika, with sweeping views across

an important

the lake, is probably one of the best

aspect of

restaurants in town. It is also steeped

Burundian

in history. The hotel’s Belgian owner

cultural

stayed put during the many years of

heritage;

conflict arguing that there was nothing

Bujumbura

for him back home. His story echoes

International

that of many Belgians who remained

Airport, main

in the country after independence,

airport in Burundi

feeling more at home there than in Europe, developing relationships with the Burundians and learning to speak Kirundi, the local language.

Lake Tanganyika is the longest

becomes more temperate. This is the

freshwater lake in the world – stretching

breadbasket region of Burundi, where

all the way from Burundi to Zambia

the nights can be cold, in stark contrast

– and at a depth of 1,433 metres it

to the heat of Bujumbura city. Behind

is the second deepest on the globe. It

you Lake Tanganyika shimmers like a

boasts over 350 species of fish, most

mirror, while the road ahead meanders

of which are endemic. Water sports

through tea and coffee fields towards

are a favourite pastime though for your

the border with Rwanda. The province

own safety, an instructor or tour guide is

of Kirundo before you hit Rwanda is

recommended.

Burundi’s ‘lakes region’ – an area of

Across the lake, the mountains of neighbouring Democratic Republic of Congo stretch out surreally across

extensive depressions dotted with lakes and of great ornithological interest. Burundi thrives on its traditions

the horizon in graduating shades

and none more so than its famous

of grey, transformed into distinct

tambourinaires or drummers, who

>>

Yes, landlocked Burundi has a long and sandy beach just outside Bujumbura comparable with many seaside destinations. nov – jan 2012 | asante | 29


destination: burundi

Fact File: Burundi Area: I27, 830 square kilometres. Capital: Bujumbura.

Burundi

Official language: The official languages are French and Kirundi, a Bantu language. Swahili and English are also spoken. Official currency: Burundi franc (FBu) (BIF). Time zone: Local time is GMT +2. Photo © Corrine Archer

Calling code: Country code is 257; international access code is 00. Communications: Postal services, internet and cellular phone usage is common place. International calls can be made from the ‘Office National des Telecommunications’ (0NATEL), phone centres and hotels. Climate: Burundi has an equatorial climate which has two distinct seasons: the wet season (February-May and September-November) and the dry season (June-August and December-January). Average annual rainfall is 1,500 millimetres. Average temperature ranges from 17°-23°C and depends on altitude that ranges from 772 metres to 2,670

Photo © Wikimedia

metres above sea level.

>>

Hotels and restaurants: Bujumbura hosts a wide selection of international standard hotels. Outside the city accommodation is basic and reasonable. Travellers are advised to book hotel accommodation in Burundi well in advance. For international cuisines, plenteous good French, Greek and Asian restaurants

originate from Gitega. The country’s

river, feeding streams that eventually

second city, renowned for its arts, is

flow into Lake Victoria. And just across

situated at an altitude of nearly 2,000

the border in Tanzania lies the small

local and international cuisines abound in the country.

metres in green and fertile hills. The

lakeshore town of Ujiji where Henry

Money: Burundi is a cash based economy and credit cards

tambourinaires have become one of

Morton Stanley famously found David

are generally not accepted. Foreign currency is changed in

the greatest percussion ensembles in

Livingstone, and uttered the immortal

major banks in Bujumbura or Gitenga. ATMs are not available.

the world, pounding out reverberating

words: “Dr. Livingstone, I presume?”

Travellers are advised to take travellers’ cheques in US Dollars

are found mainly in Bujumbura. Abundant local eateries rich in

rhythms on huge drums – some of them

For natural resources Burundi

bigger than the performers themselves.

is blessed with varying amounts of

The performances represent traditional

copper, uranium, nickel, rare earth

ceremonies such as the coronation of

oxides, vanadium, tungsten, limestone,

a new king or mwami and the routine

tin, gold, niobium, and tantalum.

includes vigorous drumming, frantic

Burundi is richly endowed with wildlife,

are required to have International Drivers Licence. Lake

leaping about, sinewy ritual dancing and

breathtaking mountainous landscapes

steamers on Lake Tanganyika are used for transport, with the

evocative chanting. A real spectacle

and rolling hills, impressive waterfalls,

major port on the lake being Bujumbura.

– especially when the drummers arrive

steep gorges, greenery and forests. Its

on the scene, balancing their enormous

Entry requirements: Visas are required by all. Contact

countryside boasts of myriad plant and

musical instruments on their heads.

your nearest Burundian embassy or nearest Burundi

animal species that include crocodiles,

Burundi also claims to be the source of the Nile – whose discovery obsessed

antelopes, and hippopotamuses. Set to grow, Burundi holds a

or Euros. Transport: Bujumbura International Airport offers both local and international flights. Buses, vans (cars) and trucks are widely available. Special car hire is also available for booking; drivers

diplomatic or consular mission before arrival for visa and other requirements. Health: Travellers are advised to seek medical advice and

many of the 19th century’s leading

promising future and visitors making

explorers. But scientists concur that

their way to this beautiful country are

insurance as well as to take pre-arrival precautions against

a tiny bubbling spring in Rutovu in

certainly rewarded.

malaria. Yellow fever immunization is required. Major hospitals

Burundi’s Bururi province is indeed the southernmost source of the mighty 30 | asante | nov – jan 2012

Air Uganda flies to Bujumbura every Monday, Wednesday and Friday.

are found in Bujumbura, cash payment is expected.


feature

Left: Initially, the gorillas would flee into the vegetation as soon as she

DIAN FOSSEY Defender of the Mountain Gorillas

approached.

Peter Holthusen looks back on the life of Dian Fossey, who drew worldwide attention to Africa’s mountain gorillas.

Fossey was

Observing them openly and from a distance, over time, eventually able to gain their

Photo © Bob Campbell

acceptance.

T

he haunting call drifts through the mist. It’s just after dawn in the ancient forests that surround the lush and verdant slopes of Karisimbi, an extinct volcano whose 4,507 metre

peak dominates the Virunga Mountains, and I’m instantly awake. In our camp below the trees where a family of mountain gorillas is actively heralding the new day, a handful of visitors rouse from their sleep, eager for a sighting of these elusive forest dwellers. To get here we had already trekked for several days through the rain-soaked forest from the northern city of Ruhengeri, gateway to Rwanda’s Parc National des Volcans and home to the famous Karisoke Research Centre. That the majority of us were here to see the mountain gorilla was obvious, but on this particular expedition to the Virungas, my quest seemed all the more important than simply observing these distant relatives, for I wanted to find out more about Karisoke’s now legendary founder, the eminent primatologist Dian Fossey. It was on the slopes of Karisimbi, that Dian Fossey undertook her two-decade behavioural study of mountain gorillas and launched a crusade against poaching that led to her brutal murder in 1985. It was here, too, that Fossey’s associates, Amy Vedder and Bill Weber, initiated the world’s first gorilla

Photo © Bob Campbell

tourism project in 1979, and it was the setting of many of the gorilla interaction scenes for the biopic about Fossey and her work, Gorillas in the Mist. Dian Fossey was born in San Francisco, California on 16 January 1932. Her parents had divorced when she was young,

32 | asante | nov – jan 2012


had planned for Fossey took her through Kenya, Tanzania (then Tanganyika), the Democratic Republic of Congo (then Zaire), and Zimbabwe (then Southern Rhodesia). Alexander’s route included visits to Tsavo, Africa’s largest national park; the alkaline lake of Manyara, famous for attracting thousands of flamingos; and the Ngorongoro Crater, well-known for its abundant wildlife. The final two sites of her visit were the Olduvai Gorge, a steepsided ravine in the eastern Serengeti Plains of northern Tanzania (the archaeological site of Louis and Mary Leakey); and Mount Mikeno in the Congo, the second highest peak in the Virungas, where in 1959, American zoologist George Schaller had carried out a pioneering study of the mountain gorilla. Both of these sites proved to be of particular significance. Schaller was the first person to conduct a reliable field study of the mountain gorillas, and his efforts paved the way for the research that would become Dian Fossey’s life work. An experience that Dian would later point to as a pivotal moment in her life was her visit with the Leakeys at Olduvai Gorge. During the visit, Dr. Leakey talked to Dian about Jane Goodall’s work with chimpanzees in Tanzania, which at the time was only in its third year. He also shared with her his belief in the importance of long-term field studies with the great apes. On 16 October, Dian went to The Travellers Rest, a small hotel just outside Kisoro, Uganda, close to the Virungas and the mountain gorillas. The hotel was owned by Walter Baumgärtel, an advocate of gorilla conservation and among the first to see the benefits that tourism could bring to the area. Above:

so Dian grew up with her mother and stepfather. She adored

Even as Dian

animals from an early age, but the only pet her strict stepfather

Root, the pioneering wildlife film-makers from Kenya who were

celebrated

would allow her to keep was a goldfish. However, at the age of six,

collecting footage of the mountain gorillas for a photographic

her daily

Dian began horseback riding lessons and by the time she attended

documentary. The Roots allowed Fossey and Alexander to camp

achievements in

Lowell High School, she earned a place on the riding team.

behind their cabin and, after a few days, took them into the forest

collecting data and gaining acceptance

When the time came for Dian to attend college, she eventually graduated in 1954 with a degree in occupational therapy. Following graduation, after less than a year, she moved to

Baumgärtel recommended that she meet with Joan and Alan

to search for gorillas. When they did come upon a group of gorillas and Dian was able to observe and photograph them, she developed a firm resolve to come back and study these beautiful

among both

Louisville, Kentucky, where she was hired as director of the

creatures, as she later described in Gorillas in the Mist: ‘It was

the mountain

occupational therapy department at The Kosair Crippled Children’s

their individuality combined with the shyness of their behaviour

gorillas and the

Hospital. She enjoyed working with the people of Kentucky and

that remained the most captivating impression of this first

world at large,

lived outside the city limits in the servant’s quarters of Judge

encounter with the greatest of the great apes. I left Kabara with

she became

George Long’s estate off the Bardstown Road. The owners of

reluctance but with never a doubt that I would, somehow, return

increasingly

the estate encouraged her to help with seasonal work with the

to learn more about the gorillas of the misted mountains’.

aware of the

animals on their farm, which she did.

threats the

Dian enjoyed the experience of the farm, but she dreamed of

Following her visit to the Virungas, Dian remained in Africa a while longer, staying with friends in Rhodesia. Upon her return to

gorillas faced

seeing more of the world and its abundant wildlife. In 1963, she

Kentucky she continued to work at The Kosair Crippled Children’s

from poachers

took out a bank loan of $ 8,000 (one year salary), and began

Hospital as an occupational therapist to repay the loan she had

and cattle

planning her first trip to Africa.

taken to pay for her trip to Africa ... all the while dreaming of the

herders.

It took Dian Fossey’s entire life savings, in addition to the bank loan, to make her dream a reality. In September 1963 she

day she would return. As Dian Fossey continued her work at the hospital, she

arrived in Nairobi, Kenya. Whilst there, she met the American

also found time to have a number of articles and photographs

actor William Holden, who was owner of Treetops Hotel in the

published in The Courier-Journal, Kentucky’s largest newspaper,

Aberdare National Park at the time, who introduced her to the

detailing her visit to Africa. These would serve her well in the

British hunter and safari guide, John Alexander. He became

spring of 1966, when a lecture tour brought Dr. Louis Leakey to

her guide for the next seven weeks. The route that Alexander

Louisville. Dian joined the audience and waited in line to speak to

>>

nov – jan 2012 | asante | 33


feature

Land Rover that Dr. Leakey had purchased for

Right:

her and which she named Lily. On the way to

At Karisoke,

the Congo, Fossey made a stop at the Gombe

Fossey

Stream Research Centre to meet Jane Goodall

continued

and observe her research methods with

to rely on

chimpanzees.

American

Accompanied by Alan Root, who helped

zoologist

her obtain the permits she needed to work in

George

the Virungas, Fossey began her field study at

Schaller’s work

Kabara, in the Congo at the beginning of 1967,

and the

in the same meadow where Schaller had made

guidelines he

his camp seven years earlier. Root taught her

set forth.

basic gorilla tracking, and his own tracker Sanwekwe, later helped her set up camp. Living in tents on mainly tinned produce, once a month Fossey would hike down the mountain to Lily and make the two-hour drive to the village of Kikumba to restock the pantry. Sanwekwe proved invaluable as a tracker and taught Dian much of what she came to know of tracking. With his help and considerable patience, she eventually identified three gorilla groups in her area of study along the slopes of Mount Mikeno. Initially, the gorillas would flee into the vegetation as soon as she approached. Observing them openly and from a distance, over time, Dian Fossey was eventually able Photo © Bob Campbell

to gain their acceptance. She put the gorillas at ease by imitating their regular activities like scratching and feeding as well as copying their contentment vocalisations. Through her observations, she was also able to begin identifying the individuals that made up each group. Like George Schaller before her,

>> him. When her turn came, she showed him some of the articles she had published. The articles got his attention and during the conversation

Dian relied heavily on the gorillas’ individual ‘noseprints’ for purposes of identification. She sketched the gorillas and their noseprints from a distance

that followed, Leakey spoke to Dian about heading a long-term

and slowly came to recognise individuals within the three distinct

field project to study the gorillas in Africa. It ended with Leakey

groups in her study area, learning much from their behaviour

informing Dian that if she were to accept his offer she would

and keeping detailed records of daily encounters.

first have to have her appendix removed. Perhaps it was a sign

Dian Fossey worked tirelessly, every day carrying a pack

of her strong will that she proceeded to do exactly that, only to

weighing nearly nine kilogrammes (some days nearly double that)

hear from Leakey later that his suggestion was mainly his way of

until the day she was driven from camp by the worsening political

gauging her determination!

situation in the Congo. On 9 July 1967, she and Sanwekwe

It was eight months before Leakey was able to secure the

returned to camp to find armed soldiers waiting for them. There

funding for the study, so Dian used that time to finish paying off

was a rebellion in the Kivu Province and the soldiers had come to

the loan for her initial trip to Africa and to study. She focused

‘escort’ her party down the mountain to safety.

on George Schaller’s books about his own field studies with the mountain gorillas and a Teach Yourself Swahili grammar book. Fossey returned to Africa in December 1966. She arrived in

She spent two weeks in Rumangabo under military guard until, on 26 July, she was able to orchestrate her escape through bribery. Fossey offered the guards cash if they would take her

Nairobi, and with the help of Joan Root, acquired the necessary

to Kisoro, Uganda, to register Lily properly and then bring her

provisions and set off for the Congo in an old canvas-topped

back. The guards could not resist and agreed to provide an

34 | asante | nov – jan 2012


Even as Dian celebrated her daily achievements in collecting data and gaining acceptance among both the mountain gorillas and the world at large, she became increasingly aware of the threats the gorillas faced from poachers and cattle herders. She fought both poachers and encroachment by herds of cattle through unorthodox methods, wearing masks to scare poachers, burning snares, spray-painting cattle to discourage Photo © Peter Holtusen

herders from bringing them into the park, and, on occasion, taking on poachers directly. She referred to her tactics as ‘active conservation’. These tactics were not popular among the locals who were struggling to get by. Additionally, the park guards were not equipped to enforce the laws protecting the forest and its inhabitants. In the course of her years of research, Dian established herself Above:

escort. Once in Kisoro, Dian went straight to The Traveller’s Rest

Dian Fossey’s

Hotel, where Walter Baumgärtel immediately called the Ugandan

grave behind her

military and the soldiers were arrested.

cabin at Karisoke

After meeting Dr. Leakey in Nairobi, Fossey agreed with

lies among those

him against US Embassy advice to continue her research on

of her beloved

the Rwandan side of the Virungas. Here, on 24 September

gorilla friends

1967, Fossey founded the Karisoke Research Centre, a remote

that were killed by

rainforest camp nestled in Ruhengeri Province in the saddle of

poachers during

two volcanoes. For the centre’s name, Fossey used ‘Kari’ from

her two-decade

the first four letters of Mount Karisimbi that overlooked her

occupation of

camp from the south, and ‘soke’ from the last four letters of

the site. The

Mount Visoke, the slopes of which rose to the north, directly

inscription on

behind the camp.

the plaque is titled

Fossey faced a number of challenges setting up camp at

‘Nyiramachabelli ‘,

Karisoke. For one, she had no interpreter. Dian spoke Swahili

and translates to

but the Rwandan men she had hired only spoke Kinyarwanda.

‘the woman who

Slowly, and with the aid of hand gestures and facial expressions,

lives alone on the

they learned to communicate. A second and very significant

mountain’

challenge was that of gaining ‘acceptance’ among the gorillas

– an affectionate

in the area.

appellation

George Schaller’s earlier work served as a basis for the

from the native

techniques Dian would use to habituate the gorillas to her

Rwandans who

presence. Schaller had laid out suggestions in his book The

supported her

Mountain Gorilla, which Fossey used to guide herself through the

work.

process. At Karisoke, she continued to rely on Schaller’s work and the guidelines he set forth. She also came to depend on the gorillas’ natural curiosity in the habituation process. While walking or standing upright increased their apprehension, she was able to get quite close when she ‘knuckle-walked’. She would also chew on celery when she was near the groups, to draw them even closer to her. Through this process, she partially habituated four groups in 1968. It was also in 1968 that the National Geographic sent photographer Bob Campbell to photograph her work. Initially, Dian saw his presence as an intrusion, but they would eventually become very close friends. His photographs of Fossey among the mountain gorillas launched her into instant celebrity, forever changing the image of the gorillas from dangerous beasts to gentle beings and drawing attention to their plight.

as a true friend of the mountain gorilla. However, there was one gorilla with whom she formed a particularly close bond. Named Digit, he was roughly five years old and living in Group four when she encountered him in 1967. He had a damaged finger on his right hand (hence, the name) and no playmates his age in his group. Over time, a true friendship would form. Tragically, on 31 December 1977, Digit was killed by poachers. He died helping to defend his group, allowing them to escape safely. He had been stabbed many times and his head and hands were severed. Eventually, there would be more deaths, including the dominant silverback, Uncle Bert, and Group four would disband. It was then that Dian Fossey declared war on the poachers. Digit had been part of a famous photo shoot with Bob Campbell and, as a result, had served as the official representative of the park’s mountain gorillas, appearing on posters throughout the world. After much deliberation, Dian used his celebrity and his tragic death to gain attention and support for gorilla conservation. She established The Digit Fund to raise money for her ‘active conservation’ and anti-poaching initiatives. The Digit Fund would later be renamed The Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund International. In 1980, Dian moved to Ithaca, New York, as a visiting associate professor at Cornell University. She used the time away from Karisoke to focus on the manuscript of her book, Gorillas in the Mist, published in 1983. However, she longed to return to the Virungas. Dian Fossey had not been back in Rwanda long, when, a few weeks before her 54th birthday, she was murdered in the bedroom of her cabin at Karisoke. Her body was found on the morning of 27 December 1985. She had been hit twice on the head and face with a panga (machete), a tool widely used by poachers. There was evidence of a forced entry but no signs that robbery had been the motive. Theories about Dian Fossey’s murder were many and varied but never fully resolved. She was laid to rest in the graveyard behind her cabin at Karisoke, among her gorilla friends and beside her beloved Digit. The last entry in her diary read: ‘When you realize the value of all life, you dwell less on what is past and concentrate more on the preservation of the future’.

nov – jan 2012 | asante | 35


lifestyle

How to

Photo © Gilly Pickup

Declutter your Life

Do you wish you could feel less stressed? Need more time? Want to feel happier? Simple – just de-clutter your life! Here are some of the quickest and simplest ways from Gilly Pickup.

5 Ways to Clear your Wardrobe and Keep the Clutter Monster at Bay …. 1. Empty it completely and try each item on. Be absolutely honest with yourself and if you don’t like what you see in the mirror for whatever reason, don’t keep it. 2. Divide your clothes and footwear into piles: The ‘keep’ pile is for things you adore. The ‘donate’ pile is for things other people would love or that could go to charity. The ‘bin’ pile is for things which are falling apart The ‘mend’ pile is for anything you like which needs

6 Ways to Stay Stress Free 1. Surround yourself with good things and people. Ditch the people who drain you and the dead wood negative situations. 2. Think about what brings you pleasure and start adding it to your life. Maybe it’s an aromatherapy session every month; eating out in your

hemming or has buttons missing. 3. Be ruthless – if you haven’t worn an item for a year, get rid of it. 4. Hang clothes by colour or outfits – whichever works best for you. 5. Make sure everything is cleaned and ironed before you put it back.

favourite restaurant every so often; taking half an hour to read a book every day – whatever your choice, just take time and do it! 3. Banish pent-up aggression with some exercise. It will release the feel-good hormone serotonin into the bloodstream which works wonders in making you feel happier and calmer. 4. Tackling satisfying chores like gardening works wonders for an over-active mind. Humdrum tasks such as raking a gravel drive can enable your intuition and emotions to flow. 5. Lack of sleep is a big contributor to feeling stressed. Have a cup of camomile tea and a warm bath before bed and get some early nights. 6. Think positive. Use affirmations – statements you can repeat to yourself to boost confidence.

3 Ways to Clear Mental Clutter 1. Watch a television programme you would normally switch off – maybe a sports programme, or a documentary. 2. Go to work or to the shops by a different route. If you normally drive, take the bus instead. If you usually go by bus, walk at least part of the route and catch a different bus. 3. Move things round in your home. The picture that hangs in the hallway could hang in the lounge instead or a rug in the dining room could be moved elsewhere. Changes force you to take a new look at the familiar.

36 | asante | nov – jan 2012


lifestyle

5 Ways to get more ‘Me Time’ and Feel Good about it …. 1. Say ‘no’ more often. Let people know why you can’t help them this time and suggest another time that you may be able to do so. If you can’t say ‘no’, you’ll end up with extra work and not all of it will satisfy you. 2. Put yourself first and don’t feel guilty about it! If you don’t look after yourself, then there is no way you can look after anyone else. 3. Delegate. No one person can do everything so don’t be afraid to ask others for help.

6 Ways to De-junk your Home 1. There should be very little in your home that you don’t use or look at on a regular basis. Pick up items one by one and say to

4. Don’t worry if things aren’t perfect. Ask yourself what will happen if what you

yourself, ‘do I use this?’ ‘Do I really love it?’ ‘Does it make me

are doing isn’t perfect and think about what you are missing out on to achieve

feel good?’ If the answer is no, don’t stop and think about it,

that perfection. 5. Be a short-cut cook. If you sometimes ‘cheat’ with ready prepared meals no-one will mind or even know and you will have more time to yourself.

just get rid of it. 2. Get rid of anything that’s past its sell-by date or which is

damaged like foodstuffs, books or clothes which have been exposed to damp, or broken electrical items. It isn’t really worthwhile getting them fixed. Bin out of date medicines and cosmetics too.

3. Don’t try to tackle clearing the whole house at once. Be realistic and do it drawer by drawer, or cupboard by cupboard. 4. Go through the items one at a time and put them in one of five piles. One for recycling; one for rubbish; one for charity donations, one for keeping and one for paperwork that needs shredding. 5. If you regularly accumulate piles of magazines and newspapers create a fast file for useful clippings and get rid of

again by following the ‘one item in, one item out’ rule. Every time something new comes into the house, something old goes out!

Photo © Lester Moyse

Photo © Gilly Pickup

the rest. 6. Once you’ve had a clear out, stop the clutter from building up

nov – jan 2012 | asante | 37


Photo © Emily Boulter

food

Sweet

Histories

interest to take a look at just a few of the world’s best-known delicacies and their unique stories.

An assortment

Scones Scones are considered as the quintessential English snack. Warm, soft, and crumbly, scones, pronounced either ‘skon’ or

Emily Boulter discovers the fascinating stories behind

‘skoan’ are now typically served at tea time with strawberry jam,

some of the world’s most delectable cakes and sweets.

lemon curd, honey or clotted cream. However, rather than being

W

English, the origin of the scone is widely believed to be Scottish,

herever you go in the world, one of life’s simple

as one of the earliest references to scones was

pleasures has to be spending time with close friends

featured in the Scottish translation of the Aeneid

and relatives, whilst enjoying a hot drink with a piece

in 1513. Others claim the name comes from the

of cake, a biscuit or a pastry. Delighting the palate is a pleasure

place where Scottish kings were crowned, known

appreciated by all, since what is life without a little indulgence

as the Stone of Scone. Yet there is no

now and then? Whatever the time of day, it can be perfectly

definitive place of origin. In the past they were

complemented with a piece of confectionary. Many of the treats

cooked according to the Welsh tradition of

that we enjoy have been created after years of adaptation, using

cooking leavened bread on bakestones

a variety of ingredients and a simple stroke of genius. Yet, have

and later on griddles, after which they

you ever wondered where some of your favourite treats came

would be cut into triangular shapes.

from? Did you know that biscuits in the past gave sustenance

Originally the main ingredient used was

to sailors on voyages and soldiers on the move? Or did you

oats. Today scones are made using

know that cakes as we know today were originally made with

flour, sugar, and baking powder, with a

honey and had a bread-like texture. Therefore it may be of

dash of raisins or cheese. The name itself

38 | asante | nov – jan 2012

Above: of scrumptious pastries.


food

Delighting the palate is a pleasure appreciated by all, since what is life without a little indulgence now and then? comes from either Middle Dutch schoonbrot, or from Middle German schonbrot meaning ‘fine bread’. Scones, as a favourite accompaniment to afternoon tea, is a tradition associated with one of Queen Victoria’s ladiesin-waiting, the seventh Duchess of Bedford, Anna Russell. In an attempt to stave off pre-dinner hunger pangs she would avoid a ‘sinking feeling’ by ordering up a selection of small cakes and sandwiches, and invite a group of ladies to join her for the meal. The idea soon took off. Yet, scones are perfect any time of the day as they can be prepared either sweet or savoury. Varieties of savoury scones are popular in Scotland and Northern Ireland, and are usually made with potato flour and typically served as part of a traditional Scottish breakfast. Photo © Emily Boulter

Modern scone recipes have adapted to include all manner of ingredients such as dried fruit, spices, chocolate and nuts. They are enjoyed across the globe; but scones are at their very best when served fresh from the oven with a classic dollop of homemade jam, some cream and a refreshing cup of tea.

Macaroons and Macarons Another delicacy, which has undergone numerous changes

typical macaron should have a smooth domed top, and besides ganache, they are also filled with jam or buttercream. In the town of Nancy, in the region of Lorraine, macarons are known

are macaroons or macarons. Today they are available in a

for having a cracked brown surface and are made by folding

variety of shapes, flavours and colours. Some are dusted with

almonds into the meringue. The decorative elegance of macarons

coconut, which were created by Italian Jews who wanted to use

is one of the reasons they are popular for special occasions such

unleavened ingredients for the Jewish festival of Passover. Some

as wedding parties and always look at their best arranged row

are bitterly sweetened with almond liqueur called amaretti, and

by row displaying all the colours of the rainbow.

others are moistly centred between delicate meringues, drizzled with an array of colours. These little cookies have aristocratic roots from Italy. They

Baklava One of the oldest and most delicious treats is the

first arrived in France in 1533 when Catherine de Medici,

honey-drenched pastry, baklava. There is dispute as to its

married the Duc D’Orleans, who later became King Henry II. She

exact place of origin, but many believe it was first created by

brought to France her cooks and bakers. Legend also has it that

the Assyrians in eighth century BC. They combined thin layers of

macaroons were traced back to an Italian monastery, where they

dough with chopped nuts and added honey for sweetness.

were produced to resemble the bellybuttons of monks. The first

They cooked the dough using simple wood burning ovens.

macaroons were simply made using almond powder, sugar and

The Greeks later discovered this sweet delicacy through their

egg whites. They had a hard shell and soft interior. The word

travels in the east and developed a technique to

itself comes from the Italian ammaccare meaning to crush or

>>

break. Later, the English adapted the French spelling to include an extra ‘o’. It was during the beginning of the 20th century that the Parisian bakery Ladurée, under the creative eye of Pierre Desfontaines, started to produce the double decker macarons filled with chocolate ganache (soft filling) sandwiched between two pieces of almond meringue. Ideally, the flavour should be light and not overpowered by the sugar of the meringue. Around France today the style of macarons vary from city to city. In Paris, the

nov – jan 2012 | asante | 39


food

>>

roll out the pastry wafer thin which could smooth the texture of

the Lorenz forest to harvest honey. In 1643, bakers later formed

the dough. Baklava is made by delicately layering sheets of filo

a guild called the ‘League of Lebkuchen-Bakers’ and strict rules

(or fillo) pastry (from the word phyllo, the Greek word for leaf)

were imposed regarding the bread’s recipe and method of baking.

together using oil or butter, and filled with nuts such as almonds,

The main ingredients are flour, ginger, honey, nuts and spices.

walnuts and pistachios, before topping them with the remaining

There is no precise agreement on the origin of the word

pastry and pouring either honey or rose syrup on top. Throughout

‘lebkuchen’, but it either comes from the Middle High German

the eastern Mediterranean region and in the Middle East, baklava

word lebbe meaning very sweet or from the Latin word for cakes

was susceptible to adaptation, as ingredients popular in certain

libum. Seasonings such as cardamom, cinnamon, cloves and

regions were added. The Arabs used rose water and cardamon,

nutmeg, were taken straight from the spice route. Lebkuchen is

whilst the Armenians took cinnamon and cloves. It was

prepared on a wafer base called oblate, which is similar to the

considered for many centuries as a delicacy for the wealthy and

wafers used in churches for communion. The rich bread is then

priviledged. Ottoman sultans would serve it on special occasions.

coated with icing sugar, and can be cut into different shapes,

From the 16th century onwards, Constantinople became

and bakeries produce varieties filled with jam or candied orange,

influential in setting culinary trends. One of Marie Antoinette’s

covered in chocolate and infused with nuts. Up until the late 19th

pastry chefs who later fled to the Ottoman Palace learnt how to

century, the gingerbread was made by hand. In the city for which

make baklava and adapted the design to create new shapes by

it was made famous, it is now a ‘protected geographical indication’

folding the pastry. The wider Ottoman population were introduced

and is authenticated by the European Union. The goodness of

to the luxurious treat in the late 1800s when pastry shops

lebkuchen is appreciated for its rich softness that makes it suited

opened in provincial capitals. Today, baklava is available all over

to cold winter nights served with hot cocoa or coffee.

the world and anyone can enjoy biting into the firm folds of its honey dripped goodness.

Lebkuchen Moving away from the succulent flavours of the Orient, we find the rich ginger taste of lebkuchen or Pferrerkuchen. Varieties of honey bread have been produced across Europe for centuries, as honey, with its long shelf life, was a prized commodity and some considered it the food of the gods. Lebkuchen, a sugar-glazed spicy bread that is popular at Christmas time, was first produced in the14th century and is commonly associated with the Bavarian town of Nuremberg. It was here that monks took advantage of

Coconut Macaroons Ingredients 1 (400 grammes) can sweetened condensed milk 1 egg white, whipped 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 1 1/2 teaspoons almond extract 1 (400 grammes) package flaked coconut Directions Preheat oven 325º F. Line baking sheets with foil; grease and flour foil. Set aside. In large bowl, combine sweetened condensed milk, egg white, extracts and coconut; mix well. Drop by rounded teaspoonfuls onto prepared baking sheets; slightly flatten each mound with a spoon. Bake 15 to 17 minutes or until lightly browned around edges. Immediately remove from baking sheets (macaroons will stick if allowed to cool); cool on wire racks. Store loosely covered at room temperature. Yields four dozen.

40 | asante | nov – jan 2012


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flora

FlowerS P assion

Photos courtesy of Wikimedia

Orchids, which have survived for more than 100 million years, are a testament to nature’s ingenuity. Pascal de Montfort roots out some of the fascinating facts about these remarkable plants.

F

back to the earliest naturalists and botanists. Theophratuus,

form perhaps the largest family of flowering plants. No other is

to testicles. Indeed, it is from the Greek word for testicle, orkhis,

so widespread. Apart from deserts and arctic ice and tundra,

that the name is derived.

ew plants hold such fascination – for flower enthusiasts

Man’s fascination with these remarkable flowering plants goes

and non-gardeners alike – as the orchid. With more than 25,000 species – and a phenomenal 730 genera – orchids

student of Plato and Aristotle, noted the resemblance of orchids

orchids occur in almost every region on earth. And these are the only genera to be listed individually in the

By the 16th century, explorers and adventurers in search of new lands and treasures had brought the first exotics back to

Guinness Book of Records, which notes that the tallest orchid

Europe and by the middle of the century orchids had crept into

– Grammatophyllum, native to Malaysia – grows to over seven

western literature. First mentioned in the Badianus manuscript,

metres. The petals of another orchid of Latin-American’s tropical

the vanilla genus is by far the most commercially exploited of all

zones – Phragmigedium caudatum – span 46 centimetres (18

orchids today.

inches), blooming into flowers upto 90 centimetres (three feet)

In the remote regions where they lived and preached,

in diameter, while the flowers of the world’s smallest orchid,

missionaries cultivated exotic species while botanists tried

Central America’s Platystele jungermannoides, measure just one

to bring back living examples. All too often, under the most

millimetre in diameter.

ordous conditions, the prized flowers were reduced to piles

The world of orchids is one of harmony, rich colours, delicate

of withered leaves. But new and rare species of orchids were

forms and elegant contours sculpted by nature. A botanist

being discovered continually as explorers ventured to ever more

captivated by the wonder of orchids will exhibit his prized

distant lands.

specimens with childlike devotion, each example more colourful, graceful and alluring than the last.

42 | asante | nov – jan 2012

Early classification, like that of other plants, however, was haphazard. Only when the Linnaean system of identification was


flora

The world of orchids is one of harmony, rich colours, delicate forms and elegant contours sculpted by nature.

established in 1735 – classifying plants and animals into groups

The fervour of Britain’s Edwardian and Victorian societies for

by using one Latin word to represent the genus and another to

orchids was unquenchable. Every detail of orchid habitat and

distinguish the species – did the true botanical study of orchids

method of cultivation was studied, while research papers dwelt

begin. Through such binomial descriptions botanists could

on each aspect of the remarkable plants.

record their findings with precision. And it made Darwin’s theory

The outcome helped to increase knowledge of many orchid

of evolution possible. He was the first botanist to record the

genera and inspired many innovations – including the development

pollination of orchids by insects and published a famous 1862

of special composts and the use of central heating in orchid

monograph, The Various Contrivances by which Orchids are

cultivation. By the late 1800s, horticulturalists had begun to

Fertilized by Insects.

master the cultivation of epiphytic orchids – those which grow off

Early European cultivators laboured long and hard to bring

other flowers but are not parasitic.

orchids to flower so that they could propagate in Europe’s often

But despite the success of greenhouse orchids, the price

cold climes. Taken to Holand near the end of the 17th century,

of the flowers continued to increase. Avid collectors – tycoons

Brassavola nodosa became the first cultivated orchid in Europe.

and aristocrats desperate to own the rarest orchids – lavished

In 1731, Peter Collinson imported another remarkable form to

fortunes on expeditions to collect new specimens. But the

England from the Bahamas – Bletia Verecunda. The following

heavy-footed expeditions trampled countless species underfoot.

summer, the eminent horticulturalist Sir Charles Wagner coaxed

Others were uprooted only to die during shipment and become

it to flower. By the late 18th century a plethora of orchids were

lost forever.

under cultivation in the hothouses at the Royal Botanic Gardens

Lewis Castle’s 1887 Orchids recorded the prices of orchids at

of Kew, where Epidendrum ensifolium and Epidendrum fragrans

a time when the average English wage was around 30 shillings

flowered in 1787. And during the next decade, a dozen more

(£1.50 sterling) a month:

species of Epidendrum flourished. The horticultural society of London, which became the Royal Horticultural Society, conducted extensive research into orchids.

An Angraecum eburneum (1850): £19 An Aerides Schroederi (1855): £89 A Vanda batemani (1856): £43

>> nov – jan 2012 | asante | 43


flora

Experts postulate, however, that the answer lies in the dim, prehistoric past, the time more than 100 million years ago when the super continent of Gondwanaland began to fragment into what became today’s continents. Thus, such ancient genera as vanilla dispersed to flourish in tropical regions around the world. Indeed, it is even found in the Seychelles archipelago, which was formed when small land masses drifted away from the broken Gondwanaland. Although now considered to be among the oldest flowers on earth, the puzzle of orchids is never ending. For the orchid family often displays the characteristics of a new class of plant – in particular, the extraordinary number of species, the ability to specialise, and apparently continuous evolution. Orchids are normally classed in two main categories – terrestrial and epiphytical. Ground orchids occur largely in temperate regions and are difficult to cultivate. Growers tend to specialise in tropical, mainly epiphytical species which are more colourful and varied. The more beautiful an orchid, the more it costs, and the increasing popularity of orchids has inspired a number of hybrids with growers paying meticulous care to the shape and colour of

>>

A Saccolabium (1861): £52 A Cypriapedium stonei (1869): £38

hybrid flowers and roots, stems, leaves and seeds. Orchids, which have survived for more than 100 million years,

An Aerides (1883): £250

are testimony to nature’s ingenuity. Look closely at any orchid and

A Vanda sanderiana (1885): £180

you will see a reason for its magical scheme.

According to the Guinness Book of Records, the

For instance, the mysterious and lovely Lady’s Slipper

Odontoglossum crispum, an orchid belonging to a Baron

– Cypripedioideae – gets its name from the peculiar lip at the

Schroder, was auctioned in London on March 22, 1906, for

front of the flower, which forms a tiny receptacle – or slipper

more that £1,200. Almost 50 years later a cymbidium orchid

– designed to ensure pollination. When an insect enters the

named Rosanna Pinkie sold for $ 4,500 in the United States.

slipper, it can only escape through an outlet at the back of the

In 1830, John Lindley was the first to classify orchids, and later Noel Bernard, a young French horticulturalist, was the first to understand the symbiosis between orchids and fungi.

cup which coats it in pollen. The Latin name derives from Greek – Cypros, the island sacred to Venus, and pédilon, slipper. Orchids have developed many ways to entice insects for

Wandering through some woods at Fontainbleau, Bernard saw

pollination. Some even look like insects. Others tempt pollinators

some Noettia nidus-nidus clustered about the base of a larger

with their fragrance. One orchid, Stanhopea, emits such an

mother plant. Under the microscope, Bernard noticed their

intoxicating chocolate aroma that the bee becomes drunk and

roots were covered with mushroom spawn, and by following the

flounders about until it is saturated by pollen. When it finally

germination process, he became the first botanist to observe

flies to another flower, it lands and crawls tipsily about, thus

that orchids draw the nutrients they need from fungi.

depositing the pollen.

Orchids often occur in extremely limited and specific

Orchids have been shrouded in legend and endowed with

ecosystems, but they are spread across the world in every

magical properties since antiquity. One legend tells that the

climatic condition. Such diversity and specialisation ensure their

flowers are descended from the lustful son of Patellanus, who

survival. Three essentials determine success: the right plant

ravaged a priestess of Bacchus, the Greek god of wine. The

material for symbiotic germination of the seed must be present,

Bacchanalians were so enraged they cut him into little pieces.

the climate has to be favourable and there has to be a specific

Whereupon, in answer to his father’s supplications, the gods

insect for pollination.

transformed the corpse into a beautiful flower.

Consequently, Colombia boasts more than 3,000 endemic species, while 660 are native to Mexico and 100 to the United

In Shakespeare’s Hamlet, the Queen describes Orphelia’s drowning with an allusion to orchids:

States of America, 14 of them in arctic Alaska. About 53 natives

‘There is a willow grows aslant a brook,

are found in Britain.

That shows hi hoar leaves in the glassy stream;

Such varied diffusion constantly baffles botanists, who are at

There with fantastic garlands did she come,

a loss to know why some forms of orchids are found throughout

Of crowflowers, nettles, daisies, and the long purples,

the world, while others are limited to extremely restricted areas.

That liberal shepherds give a grosser name,

44 | asante | nov – jan 2012


But our cold maids do dead men’s fingers call them.’ ‘Grosser name’ and ‘dead men’s fingers’ are references to the pale roots of Orchids palmate. Other than the rose, no flower has a reputation so entrenched with love and romance as the orchid. The flowers and their roots were thought to be potent ophrodisiacs when crushed. In Paradisi in sole paradises Terrestris (1629), apothecary and gardener John Parkinson mentions the potency of orchids: ‘Dioscorides said of cynosorchis that the roote thereof being boyled is eaten as other sorts of bulbes are, and that if men eate the greater, they shall beget men children, and if women eate the lesser they shall bring forth women children: and that the women in Thessalye give the soft roote in goats milk to procure lust, an the dry roote to restraine it, and that the vertue of the one is extinguished by the taking of the other. Pliny also writeth the same words out of Dioscorides, yet in generally held, by almost all nowadays, that the firme roote onely is effectuall for that purpose, and the loose or

in demand during the 18th and 19th centuries. Saloop-houses

spongy roote to be either of no force or hinder that effect: but most

were frequented by men who wanted to satiate their

of our Apothecaries doe promiscuously take, not onely both of these

ever-lascivious desires.

rootes to use, but of all sorts of Orchides in generall.’ A concoction known as Salep, or Saloop, made from the roots of orchids and introduced to Europe from Turkey, was much

With rare orchids sought by collectors for their conservatories and orchid nectar taken as an aphrodisiac, it is no surprise these wondrously alluring flowers became – and remain – so popular.

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aIR UGANDA news

EVENTS Familiarisation Trip

Above: Tour operators from Uganda enjoy a familiarisation trip organised by Air Uganda and Kampala Serena Hotel to the Serena Selous Luxury Camp and Mivumo River Lodge in September 2011.

Olive Gospel Music Awards – Press Conference

Above: Ms. Jenifer B. Musiime, Head of Sales and Marketing (right) unveils the prestigious Olive award with Mr. Edwin Musiime, President of the Olive Gospel Music awards (left) with other sponsors. Air Uganda is proud to be one of the sponsors of the first annual live Gospel Music awards to be held at the Victoria Ballroom, Kampala Serena Hotel. The event is set to be the first of its kind; a prestigious red carpet event. The awards, slated to take place on 11 November 2011, offer the most comprehensive platform for celebrating Christian and gospel music.

We Have Spread our Wings to Bujumbura

Starting 31 October 2011, fly with us to Bujumbura from Entebbe three times a week, Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. Save time, enjoy the great service and explore Bujumbura, the land of opportunities.

Dar es Salaam Weekly

Air Uganda now operates daily flights between Dar es Salaam and Entebbe with its newest flight on Saturday effective 5 November 2011. Fly direct between Dar es Salaam and Entebbe and avoid the hassles that come with making unnecessary stops.

Juba Twice Daily

Celebrating 4 Years of Spreading our Wings Air Uganda is proud to celebrate four years of service. It’s been a good four years since we leapt skywards and that journey has seen us continue upwards. To all those that nurtured our growth, we would like to say ‘thank you’. In its fourth year of service, Air Uganda continues to differentiate itself from other carriers offering a reliable product with exemplary customer service and unrivalled on-time performance.   We understand what our clients are passionate about, hence our efforts to addressing these needs are not restricted to discounts but cover a great onboard experience and service, unrivalled on-time and departure schedules, the best deals, safety etc. We thus continually strive to offer innovative solutions that address our clients’ needs. The objective is to generate preference through initiatives which create affinity amongst travellers.

46 | asante | nov – jan 2012

Effective 1 December 2011, Air Uganda will fly two times a day between Entebbe and Juba. These twice daily flights are currently available on Fridays only but will increase in 2012.


AIR UGANDA FLIGHT SCHEDULE

FLIGHT NUMBER U7 202 U7 206 U7 202 U7 206 U7 204 U7 204

DEPARTURE TIME 06:30 Hrs 14:30 Hrs 08:30 Hrs 12:20 Hrs 16:45 Hrs 18:45 Hrs

FLIGHT NUMBER U7 203 U7 207 U7 203 U7 207 U7 205 U7 205

DEPARTURE TIME 08:15 Hrs 16:15 Hrs 10:15 Hrs 13:55 Hrs 18:20 Hrs 20:30 Hrs

FLIGHT NUMBER U7 120 U7 120 U7 120 U7 120

DEPARTURE TIME 10:15 Hrs 15:15 Hrs 12:15 Hrs 15:15 Hrs

FLIGHT NUMBER U7 119 U7 119 U7 119 U7 119 U7 119

DEPARTURE TIME 12:00 Hrs 12:15 Hrs 17:00 Hrs 13:55 Hrs 17:00 Hrs

FLIGHT NUMBER U7 320 U7 320 U7 320 U7 320

DEPARTURE TIME 14:00 Hrs 14:45 Hrs 10:45 Hrs 15:30 Hrs

FLIGHT NUMBER U7 321 U7 321 U7 321 U7 321

DEPARTURE TIME 16:20 Hrs 17:05 Hrs 13:10 Hrs 17:50 Hrs

U7 340

09:00 Hrs

U7 341 U7 341

11:10 Hrs 13:00 Hrs

U7 340 U7 340

09:00 Hrs 09:00 Hrs

U7 341 U7 341

12:10 Hrs 11:55 Hrs

FLIGHT NUMBER U7 350 U7 350 U7 352 U7 352

DEPARTURE TIME 09:15 Hrs 09:55 Hrs 15:30 Hrs 16:00 Hrs

FLIGHT NUMBER U7 351 U7 351 U7 353 U7 353

DEPARTURE TIME 09:30 Hrs 10:10 Hrs 17:00 Hrs 16:15 Hrs

U7 350 U7 352

09:15 Hrs 15:30 Hrs

U7 351 U7 353

10:30 Hrs 16:05 Hrs

ENTEBBE - NAIROBI ARRIVAL TIME 07:40 Hrs 15:35 Hrs 09:40 Hrs 13:25 Hrs 17:50 Hrs 19:55 Hrs NAIROBI - ENTEBBE ARRIVAL TIME 09:25 Hrs 17:20 Hrs 11:25 Hrs 15:00 Hrs 19:25 Hrs 21:40 Hrs ENTEBBE - JUBA ARRIVAL TIME 11:15 Hrs 16:15 Hrs 13:15 Hrs 16:15 Hrs JUBA - ENTEBBE ARRIVAL TIME 13:00 Hrs 13:15 Hrs 18:00 Hrs 14:55 Hrs 18:00 Hrs ENTEBBE - DAR ES SALAAM ARRIVAL TIME 15:45 Hrs 16:30 Hrs 12:30 Hrs 17:15 Hrs DAR ES SALAAM - ENTEBBE ARRIVAL TIME 18:05 Hrs 18:50 Hrs 14:55 Hrs 19:35 Hrs ENTEBBE - MOMBASA 10:40 Hrs MOMBASA - ENTEBBE 13:50 Hrs 14:30 Hrs ENTEBBE - ZANZIBAR 11:40 Hrs 11:25 Hrs ZANZIBAR - ENTEBBE 13:50 Hrs 14:30 Hrs ENTEBBE - KIGALI ARRIVAL TIME 09:00 Hrs 09:40 Hrs 16:30 Hrs 15:45 Hrs KIGALI - ENTEBBE ARRIVAL TIME 12:30 Hrs 11:55 Hrs 18:45 Hrs 18:00 Hrs ENTEBBE - BUJUMBURA 10:00 Hrs 15:30 Hrs BUJUMBURA - ENTEBBE 12:30 Hrs 18:45 Hrs

FREQUENCY Mon, Tue, Wed, Thur & Fri Tue, Wed & Fri Sat Sun Sat Mon, Tue, Wed, Thur, Fri & Sun FREQUENCY Mon, Tue, Wed, Thur & Fri Tue, Wed & Fri Sat Sun Sat Mon, Tue, Wed, Thur, Fri & Sun FREQUENCY Mon, Tue, Wed, Thur & Fri Fri Sat Sun FREQUENCY Mon & Fri Tue, Wed & Thur Fri Sat Sun FREQUENCY Mon Tue, Wed & Thur Fri & Sat Sun FREQUENCY Mon Tue, Wed &Thur Fri & Sat Sun Thur & Sun Thur Sun Thur Sun Thur Sun FREQUENCY Mon & Wed Tue & Thur Fri Sun FREQUENCY Mon & Wed Tue & Thur Fri Sun Mon & Wed Fri Mon & Wed Fri

For any information contact your preferred Travel Agent or our Sales & Reservation Office on 041 2 165555 in KAMPALA

nov – jan 2012 | asante | 47


HEALTHY TRAVELLING

These gentle exercises, which you can carry out easily during your flight, will help blood circulation and reduce any tiredness or stiffness that may result from sitting in one place for several hours. Check with your doctor first if you have any health conditions which might be adversely affected by exercise. Foot pumps: Start with both heels on the floor and point feet upward as high as you can. Then put both feet flat on the floor. Then lift heels high, keeping the balls of your feet

Other Tips for a Comfortable Flight

Knee lifts: Lift leg with knees bent while contracting your thigh muscles. Alternate legs. Repeat 20 to 30

For your own comfort try and travel light.

Wear loose clothing and elasticated stockings made of natural fibre.

Increase your normal intake of water and only if need be, drink alcohol but in moderation.

Use moisturising cream to keep your skin from drying out.

Take off shoes in the plane to prevent your feet from swelling up or wear shoes that will cope with expanding ankles.

Avoid heavy meals during the flight.

Short walks once every two hours are excellent for circulation.

Try to touch your toes when waiting in the aisle to stretch your hamstrings.

On arrival at your destination, have a hot shower or a relaxing bath.

On arrival a quick jog, brisk walk, or a vigorous scrub will help stimulate your circulation.

times for each leg.

on the floor. Continue cycle in 30-second intervals.

Knee to chest: Bend forward slightly. Clasp hands around the left knee and hug it to your chest. Hold stretch for 15 seconds. Keeping hands around knee, slowly let it down. Alternate legs. Repeat 10 times.

Shoulder stretch: Reach right hand over left shoulder. Place left hand behind right elbow and gently press elbow toward shoulder. Hold stretch for 15 seconds. Repeat on the other side.

Overhead stretch: Raise both hands straight up over your head. With one hand, grasp the wrist of the opposite hand and gently pull to one side. Hold stretch for 15 seconds. Repeat on the other side.

Arm curl: Start with arms held at a 90-degree angle: elbows down, hands out in front. Raise hands up to chest and back down, alternating hands. Do this exercise in 30-second intervals. 48 | asante | nov – jan 2012

Forward flex: With both feet on the floor and stomach held in, slowly bend forward and walk your hands down the front of your legs towards your ankles. Hold the stretch for 15 seconds and slowly sit back up.

Shoulder roll: Hunch shoulders forward, then upward, then backward, then downward, using a gentle, circular motion.

Ankle circles: Lift feet off the floor, draw a circle with the toes, simultaneously moving one foot clockwise and the other foot counterclockwise. Reverse circles. Do each direction for 15 seconds. Repeat if desired.

Neck roll: With shoulders relaxed, drop ear to shoulder and gently roll neck forward and to the other side, holding each position about five seconds. Repeat five times.


ROUTE MAP

Entebbe

nov – jan 2012 | asante | 49


AIR UGANDA CONTACTS AND OFFICES

Kampala Sales Office: Tel: +256 (0) 412 165 555 +256 (0) 312 165 555 Email: info@air-uganda.com Fax: +256 (0) 414 258 267 Jubilee Insurance Centre, 1st Floor, Podium Level, Plot 14 Parliament Avenue, Kampala, Uganda. P. O. Box 36591, Kampala, Uganda.

Kigali Sales Office: Tel: +250 (0) 252 577 926 +250 (0) 252 577 928 +250 (0) 788 380 926 +250 (0) 722 926 926 Email: info@air-uganda.com Office No. 26 UTC (Union Trade Centre) Building, Town Centre Kigali, Rwanda.

Dar es Salaam Sales Office: Tel: +255 (0) 783 111 983        +255 (0) 222 133 322 Email: reservationsdar@air-uganda.com Harbour View Towers J-Mall, 1st Floor, Samora Avenue, P.O. Box 22636, Dar es Salaam, Tanzania.

Bujumbura Sales Office: Tel: +257 (0) 222 234 60 Email: salesbjm@air-uganda.com 40.Av.du Commerce B.P: 2460 Bujumbura, Burundi.

Nairobi Sales Office: Tel: +254 (0) 20 313 933 Email: infoke@air-uganda.com 5th Floor, Jubilee Insurance Building, Gen Kago Street, Nairobi, Kenya.

Mombasa Sales Office: Tel: +254 (0) 20 313 933 +254 (0) 734 605 203 Email: vwamakau@air-uganda.com 1st Floor, TSS Towers, Nkrumah Road, Mombasa, Kenya.

Zanzibar Sales Office: Tel: +255 (0) 242 233 506/7        +255 (0) 713 666 602 Email: reservationsznz@air-uganda.com Office no. 23, Mlandege Street, Muzammil Center Building P.O. Box 22636, Zanzibar, Tanzania.

Juba Sales Office: Tel: 0977 153 912 Email: info@air-uganda.com Hai Suk Street, (Opp. the Mosque) Juba, Sudan.

50 | asante | nov – jan 2012

Head Office: Tel: +256 (0) 414 258 262/4         +256 (0) 417 717 401 Fax: +256 414 500 932 Email: info@air-uganda.com Investment House, Plot 4, Wampewo Avenue, Kololo P.O.Box 36591, Kampala, Uganda.

Entebbe International Airport (Ticketing Office): Tel: +256 (0) 414 321 485 +256 (0) 41771722 Email: reservations@air-uganda.com or info@air-uganda.com 2nd Floor, Passenger Terminal Building, Entebbe, Uganda.

PLEASE NOTE : After working hours: Weekdays (17:45 hrs - 21:00 hrs), Saturday (14:00 hrs - 21:00 hrs) and Sunday (07:30 hrs - 21:00 hrs) Please call our Entebbe ticketing office on Tel: +256 (0) 414 321 485 +256 (0) 417 717 222 for assistance.


TIPS FOR THE TRAVELLER IN UGANDA

Land Uganda is a compact country, with an area of 236,580 square kilometres – roughly the size of Great Britain. Climate Although situated on the equator, Uganda’s relatively high altitude tempers the heat, and humidity is generally low. Throughout the year sunshine averages about 6 to 10 hours a day. There are two rainy seasons: the main long rains, which start late in February and end in April, and the short rains, which start in October and run until about the middle of December. The region around Lake Victoria, however, receives rain at almost any time of the year. Topography It is located on the equator, within the eastern plateau region of the African continent and between the eastern and western ridges of the Great Rift Valley. Near the borders several mountain masses stand out strikingly from the plateaux. Economy Uganda is blessed with fertile soils that support a wide variety of food and export crops, both annual and perennial. Agriculture is the dominant sector of Uganda’s economy. The major traditional export crops are coffee, cotton, tea, horticulture, tobacco and sugar cane, while groundnuts, maize, beans, sorghum and millet have emerged in recent years as cash crops for the peasant farmers. Language English is the official language and is also the medium of instruction in Uganda’s education system, from primary school up to university level. Swahili is also spoken. There are some 30 indigenous languages spoken in the rural areas. The most common of these are Luganda and Luo. Electric supply All installations are of British standard and appliances should be fitted with the square, three-pin plugs of British specifications. The voltage is 240 volts, 50 Hz for domestic use. The voltage fluctuates continually, however, and proper surge protectors are advisable for any expensive equipment. Time Uganda is three hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). Time remains constant throughout the year. People The people are warm, friendly, and full of humour. They are anxious to make friends with visitors and are continually asking guests whether they are comfortable and enjoying themselves. A large number of people speak English. Excursions Uganda is beginning to develop an excellent tourist infrastructure, with first-rate roads and communication facilities. Uganda’s national game, forest and recreational parks are indeed some of the spectacular showpieces Africa has to offer. They do have regulations regarding off-theroad driving, game watching, and so on, which are clearly stated at the entrance gates of parks or on leaflets supplied by the tourist offices. Mountaineering safaris to the Ruwenzori Mountains in the western Rift Valley are now becoming a favourite Ugandan expedition. Similar safaris can also be organised to climb Mount Elgon in the east, sharing the border with Kenya. Hotels There are international-standard hotels in Entebbe, Kampala and Jinja, as well as in many of the smaller towns. Camping, rustic bush camps and guest houses are also available. The Kampala Sheraton, the Serena Kampala, the Grand Imperial, and the Nile Hotel, all in the national’s capital are by the best. There are many other less expensive, but quite nice hotels in the city. Outside Kampala, most towns also have a variety of moderately priced and budget hotels. Banking hours There is a wide range of banks in Uganda, particularly in Kampala. Their hours are generally from 0830 to 1400 hours on weekdays, and Saturdays from 0830 to 1200 hours. Forex bureaux keep longer hours – 0900 to 1700 hours on weekdays and 0900 to 1300 hours on Saturdays. ATMs are available in the larger cities. Communications Telephone, telex, fax and airmail services connect Kampala to all parts of the world. Services are available at the General Post Office and its many branches, as well as in the main hotels. International direct dialling is available and now there are a number of Internet cafes. Medical services Uganda has good health services, with some good government and private hospitals and clinics in the major cities. Air rescue services are available.

Currency Uganda Shilling (UGX). Notes are in denominations of UGX 50,000, 20,000, 10,000, 5,000 and 1,000. Coins are in denominations of UGX 500, 200, 100, 50, 20, 10, 5, 2 and 1. You can change money at banks and hotels. Although the forex bureaux usually have better exchange rates. Credit cards International credit cards are accepted in major hotels and shops. Working hours Shops and businesses are generally open from 0830 to 1730 hours on weekdays, with a lunch break between 1300 and 1400 hours. Some businesses are open on Saturday, at least until midday. Small, local shops or kiosks on the side of many roads are generally open much later, until about 2130 hours and on weekends and holidays as well; they stock basic food and household items. Public Holidays 2012 1 January 26 January 8 March 6 April 9 April 1 May 3 June 9 June 19 August 9 October 26 October 25 December 26 December

New Year’s Day Liberation Day International Women’s Day Good Friday Easter Monday Labour Day Martyrs’ Day National Heroes’ Day Eid al-Fitr (End of Ramadan) Independence Day Eid al-Adha (Feast of the Sacrifice) Christmas Day Boxing Day

Note:The two Muslim holidays, Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Adha are timed according to local sightings of various phases of the moon and the dates given above are approximate. Customs Besides personal effects, a visitor may import duty-free spirits (including liquors) or wine up to one litre, perfume and toilet water up to half a litre and 270 grammes of tobacco or 200 cigarettes. Other imported items, not exceeding US$100 may be brought in duty free and without an import licence, provided they are not prohibited or restricted goods, are for personal use, and are not for resale. Note: A special permit is required to export game trophies. Health requirements Visitors from areas infected with yellow fever and cholera required certificates on inoculation. All visitors are advised to take an antimalarial prophylactic beginning two weeks before their arrival and continuing for six weeks after their departure. A gamma globulin injection provides some protection against possible infection by hepatitis and is well worth taking. Visa and immigration requirements Visa applications may be obtained at Uganda diplomatic missions. Two photographs are required for visas, which are usually issued within 24 hours. Visas are also available at the country’s entry points. Check with the Uganda diplomatic mission in your country if visa is required as some countries are exempted. Taxi services Taxis are immediately available at Entebbe International Airport. They can also be found outside most hotels in Kampala and at most of the country’s major centres. All don’t have meters, so make sure the fare is negotiated in advance. Car rental Several firms operate car hire services in Kampala. Vehicles may be hired with or without driver. For trips outside the city it is possible to hire insured cars appropriate for the trip (a four-wheel-drive vehicle with a drivertranslator is recommended). Entebbe International Airport The main point of entry is Entebbe International Airport, about a 30-minute drive south of the capital, Kampala. Although modest, the modern airport does provide automated passenger facilities, currency exchange, postal services, banking facilities, telephoned, duty-free shops, gift shops and a restaurant and bar. Security The same rules apply for Kampala as for almost any city anywhere.Be careful and take the usual precautions to safeguard yourself and your belongings. Do not leave valuables in your car. Walking at night in all major centres is reasonably safe.

nov – jan 2012 | asante | 51


CROSSWORD PUZZLE & SUDOKU

Clues across

1

1. A simple tune, as sung by monks. (9)

7

6

8. A mountain top gathering for leaders? (6, 7) 8

11. Established custom for by singer of 1. (5) 12. Chopped citrus fruits produces viscous fluid. (5)

Crossword

5

4

3

2

9

10

13. One should have no trouble guiding this ox! (5) 16. It seems this vegetable always produces new

11

12

shoots. (6)

14

13

15

17. This is a matter of fact! (6) 18. To get you out of trouble – in a Bali billiard hall! (5)

17

16

19. Hemingway sounds sincere! (6) 20. It’s capital in a nylon donkey jacket! (6) 21. Seaside without ID turns to provide relief. (5)

18 19

20

24. Change a cent to bring into law. (5) 26. Coach that might be used by a bride. (5) 27. Hide apparel from cranefly larva. (7-6)

21

23

22

25

24

26

28. Tech cry to become irritable. (9)

Clues down

27

2. To restrict the ultimate extent. (5) 3. All in one piece from sprint action. (6) 4. Observe boil. (6)

28

5. Reworked tones – not a lot of these in 1. (5)

9. Hurried after the 100 and was disciplined. (9) 10. Clinger in confusion – take it lying down. (9)

Answers across 1. Plainsong | 8. Summit meeting | 11. Habit | 12. Slime | 13. Steer | 16. Sprout | 17. Actual | 18. Alibi | 19. Ernest | 20. London | 21, Eases | 24. Enact | 26. Train | 27. Leather jacket | 28. Crotchety |

7. Ancient trader – he sells collectables. (7.6)

Answers down 2. Limit | 3. Intact | 4. Seethe | 5. Notes | 6. Number engaged | 7. Antique dealer | 9. Chastened | 10. Reclining | 13. State | 14. Edits | 15. Rails | 22. Advent | 23. Elijah | 25. Tutor | 26. Tacit |

6. Bargemen nudge out – you can’t get through! (6,7)

13. The country’s condition. (5)

Sudoku

14. Prepares text but sited badly. (5) 15. Wading birds make tracks. (5) 22. Promotional release before Christmas? (6)

Place a number from

23. Jail he broke to become prophet. (6)

1 to 9 in every empty

25. A Pirvate Teacher. (5)

cell so that each row,

26. Implied quietly though act it up! (5)

each column and each 3x3 box contains all

5 9

2

8

4 9

5

3

9

the numbers from 1

1 7 4 2

to 9. No number can appear twice in a row, column or 3x3 box. Do not guess ­– you can work it out by a process of elimination.

8

7

7 9

4 8

2 3 1 5

52 | asante | nov – jan 2012

6

3

6 9

8

3 9


i s s u e

n u m b e r

0 0 8

n o v e m b e r

2 0 1 1 - j a n u a r y

2 0 1 2

the inflight magazine of air uganda part of the asante issue number 007 november - january 2012

your complimentary copy

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