St. Edwardâ€™s Univeristy Fashion Magazine FA L L 2 0 1 5
CONTRIBUTORS Editors / Christopher Gonzales Sydney Clarkson Caroline Teck Photographers / Levi Thompson Miriam Vicente Adriance Rhoades Samuel Wyand Juliana Ramirez
Videographer / Patricia Medina Entertainment / Margeaux Labat Evguenia Gololobova Design / Hayley Wood Aly Gorday Mali Tribune Marketing / Nile Ruf Style / Kelsey Ford Amy Tondre Roberto Robles Sandra Benkova Marleny Sanchez Special Thanks To / Austin Botanical Gardens, Austin Scottish Rite Theatre, Esperanza Garibay, Blake Leland, Michael Pacheco, Paul Baconnet, Emma Whatley, Maggie Rosenbohm, Christian Anhalt, Sam Griffith, Kyra Shelby, Rashad White, Amir Henry, Sami Kaye, Deja Morgan, and Domonique Pearson
Imagery on Pages 8, 56, 57, 61 by Katinka Barragan #8 / “I’m Not How I Used To Be” #56 / “My Biggest Fear” #57 / “And Then It Will be Too Late” #61 / “There’s This Time”
DIRECTORS Editor-in-Chief /
Photography Director /
Managing Editor /
Entertainment Director /
Creative Director /
Style Director /
Marketing Director /
Style Director /
9 Letter From The Editor 10
Hayley Wood + DIY
Interpreting the Fashion of Film Directors Through Their Work
Three Words /
Inside the Lives of the ‘Black Lives Matter’ Movement
Gender - Bender /
The Synonymity of Menswear and Womenswear
Letter From The Editor I thought about writing this letter as an introduction to the world of fashion, using countless quotes and name dropping fashion icons. As exciting and glamorous as that would sound, it would be a mere facade of what CABRA is all about. So, instead, I am going to tell you exactly what we are. We are a complete mess. Our first semester as an organization was very close to becoming our last semester as an organization. From last minute model cancellations to Texas suddenly deciding to mimic the weather patterns of a tropical rain forest, everything that could have gone wrong did. Somehow, amidst the unorganized cluster of events, we found ourselves persevering through a genuine passion for what we were trying to do. We persevered through every obstacle because the CABRA team really wanted to make this happen. CABRA not only allows us to express ourselves but creates a space on campus for people who have mutual interests. CABRA was formed from the desire to embody a very important part of our campus: our style! We are all aware of how different we are in terms of style compared to other campuses, and the constant comments newcomers and visitors make about our style is nothing new. CABRA celebrates the diverse and unique attributes of our school---of us. Whether we realize it or not, SEU attributes have a lot of impact on the community and helps keep Austin fashionable, chic, and weird. Although it is primarily a fashion magazine, we wanted CABRA to highlight different aspects of our campus that often go unnoticed. For this reason, the first editorial pieces are a variety of important issues, issues not just for fashion but for anything SEU students care about. Using fashion to alter the way people think about certain topics, such as the Black Lives Matter Movement, androgyny, or science, is not only visually alluring but engaging. We believe the students chosen for this issue are perfect depictions of those issues because of their personal style and personalities. The future for CABRA will feature styles and topics that are important to the community. Whether online or in the issue, I hope the styles and topics motivate you to think about what is taking place around you and, more importantly, inspire you to contribute. With all that, and with great pleasure, I welcome you to the very first issue of CABRA. Ysenia Valdez Editor-in-Chief
Hayley Wood + DIY cabraseu.com
denim Written by / Christopher Gonzalez Styled by / Sharmeen Anjum & Zachary Dupuis Photographed by / Juliana Ramirez
in comparison to other cotton type blends, is the unique weaving. Rather than having the traditional warp and weft (which is just fancy terms for the way you would think weaving is “over and under”), denim has a Twill type-weaving pattern, where you do the over two-under two. This extra pull on the threads gives the denim it’s tough and thick/heartiness that we are all so fond of. This gives the denim cloth the diagonal pattern, that if you really focus your eyes on the pant leg (if you are wearing denim of course) you can see the over two under-two style of weaving. Naturally, my next question was, “but, like, why is it blue? And what makes it blue?” This is where my bias as lover of organic chemistry comes in. It turns out that “blue jeans color” we are all so fond of actually comes from a plant called Indigofera tinctoria, also known as True Indigo, which
was mainly cultivated in the tropical areas of Asia, as well as being notably farmed in a few locations in Africa. By extracting this molecule from this plant, chemist were able to identify the molecule, and then synthesize it on large scales to gives that mom washed blue (Pflegerâ€™s synthesis of indigo picture below. Stuff look pretty rad in my eyes) that we see in pants leggings, or jeggings if you so please. There is a slight caveat though, many of the chemicals used in the production of these jeans, are, for lack of better terms, not good for that bod of yours. So If I may use this as 16
shamelss plug, just make sure that what your purchasing isnâ€™t chewing on your body at the molecular level, as well as ensuring that the denim is ecofriendly and ethically produced. Okay, done. So with all this hot talk of what coming down the runway, or out of your closet (to me that are the same thing), it is always proper to respect that one pair of jeans that have seen it all. Whether it be the pair of jeans with paint stain from 8th grade, or that fresh thick fit straight from the store, I bow from the deepest part of my soul to denim.
So throw on those apple bottom jeans, and maybe boots with the fur and turn a denim shirt or pants, into a magic summoning of allure. Slipping into a pair blues, with a forgotten dollar in the side pocket, comes with two dimensions of surprises. One being the slight monetariy gain, and secondly that these two materials are both made from the versatile material: Denim. Denim has played such a fantastic role in many of the events throughout the history of fashion (other than fawning over the greaser-slick man on his 1948 Ford Deluxe). Whether Denim was being exchanged for a cup of coffee in the form of a dollar, protected
our fellow cowboy fellows from the harsh cacti, or suffocating the crotchal region of our peers, people tend to forget the origins of this versatile material. So, Where does this thick material pay its linage? To one of the most largely consumed agricultural products: cotton. â€œBut Chris like, arenâ€™t so many clothes made from this fluffy goodness? What makes denim so special?â€? I got you. Just like you can make countless number of sandwichs from the same ingredients, what it really boils down, what really gives it its character, is how it is all put together.
conceptualizing: I nt er pr et ing th e F a s h i o n o f F i l m Dir ec t or s T h ro u g h T h e i r Wo rk
Photographed by / Faith Robbins Miriam Vicente Jeremy Lohr Styled by / Sharmeen Anjum Zachary Dupuis Amy Tondre Sandra Benkova Marlene Sanchez Kelsey Ford Mali Tribune
Wes Anderson Faith Robbins
“When you’re 11 or 12 years old, you can get so swept up in a book that you start to believe that the fantasy is reality. I think when you have a giant crush when you’re in fifth grade, it becomes your whole world. It’s like being underwater; everything is different.” Wes Anderson
Sofia Coppola Miriam Vicente
“For everyone, there are those moments when you have great days with someone you wouldn’t expect to. Then you have to go back to your real lives, but it makes an impression on you.” Sofia Coppola
Quentin Tarantino Jeremy Lohr
“When people ask me if I went to film school I tell them, ‘no I went to films.’” Quentin Tarantino
three words Inside the Lives of the ‘Black Lives Matter’ Movement
Written by / Sydney Clarkson Styled by / Sharmeen Anjum & Zachary Dupuis Photographed by / Levi Thompson Collage Work by / Anthony Flores
each got behind the camera, and then the next moment they were themselves - Kyra, 21, Rashad, 20, Amir, 20, Sam, 22, Deja, 19 and Domonique, 20. From frame to frame, you could see each personality coming to life as the shutter clicked. Individual smiles, unique laughter’s, diverse experiences but one thing that connected them all: those were the faces behind the words, ‘Black lives matters’. It is likely, by now, that most people have heard these words, seen the slogan etched on signs held at street rallies, know the names of young men and women slain that founded them. But it is seldom that they know the lives, have listened to the anecdotes, researched the facts, and understood the statistics that make the Black Lives Matter (BLM) movement mean something. Two seniors, three juniors and one freshman student; future artists, businesspeople, physicians, scientists - but that may not be what the world sees. That is why it is important now to listen, learn and understand from those who the BLM movement directly affects.
It is can be easy to make assumptions when you don’t know a person or consider their humanity. Identity and self-expression is a vital part of breaking down those walls of discrimination. As an English Writing and Rhetoric major, Samantha says self-expression is “how she keeps her sanity, how she takes pride in who she is and how she shows that to the world visually and verbally and nonverbally.” Just as it can be a way to take ownership over who you are, regardless of how people digest it. After years of dealing with how heavy the opinion of others 43
can weigh on you, Deja talks about how liberating letting go of that can be, especially for a young woman of color. “I think someone’s choice of clothing says a lot about them and is another way of how they communicate with the world. So it’s kind of like letting someone put their hand over your mouth when you’re trying to say something, when you alter your clothes choice based on what you think others will think about you. And I don’t like being hushed up so any chance I get to make a statement and try something new I will. It only helps me gain the confidence that is so hard to obtain today.” The concept of racism feels so archaic, in that these truths on freedom and equality are not already completely accepted. Which is why the movement is important, because it’s needed. “The fact that this is still a conversation that has to be had in 2015 shows you how ingrained racism is our society”, Sam pointed out.
And I agree with her entirely. The topic has yet to become outdated because the discrimination continues to happen. It has become even clearer how much we see public service officers mistreat young minorities. Most probably experience it by middle school. Someone gives them a look, treats or talks to them differently than their non-Black friend. They get dress coded and put in detention for wearing the same outfit as the girl standing right next to them. When the officer stops and asks them to get out of the car during a traffic stop. “In theatre at a show, Kyra chimed in, when airbrush foundation was provided for all the students except the black students that had to sit in the corner and apply makeup normally.”
Or in other more intrusive ways. Like the time, Rashad described how he and his mother were followed around the store while shopping. “I walked around on my own. The officer followed me everywhere I went in the store for 10 minutes. My mom noticed before I did and made me walk with her just to see if he was following me. He walked away for a second but then came back to watch us both. Let’s just say my mom didn’t take to kindly to that.” It is also clear that the voices of the millennial generation are willing to speak up, especially on this issue. Unafraid to question the status quo is what has been a mark for this group. And it does not end there. These young adults have been handed a society shaped by technology, the Internet, big business and with that, a look at what they never realized was there – corruption, violence,
disrespect, sexism, racism – and a hell bent drive to change it. The increased prevalence of student activism is proof of that. Portland State students rallied for disarming police officers on-campus, 600 high school students in Minneapolis marched to protest for their amendment rights, 100 students at Duke stood in silence to express their solidarity for the BLM movement, 2,000 at the Capitol in Austin to protest police brutality; activists in South Carolina pipe up at a White supremacy group and the Confederate flag, supporters in Houston gathered for awareness of Black trans women and countless other efforts have been made by young people across the country trying to make change. And being a student activist is more than just holding up a sign and chanting. For Kyra, she described her experience as intense and also humbling. “It was beautiful. I felt transported back to the Civil Rights era, connected with all the people in the past that protested and marched during that time, like I was a part of the next phase, hopefully prompting the change that will result in an easier less frightening future for my kids and grandkids....not sure if that made any sense but it’s an indescribable feeling really.” 45
Samantha marked her own experience as a complicated relationship between empowered and emotional. “Empowering because you realize you are part of something bigger, that you aren’t alone. And in the same breath, emotional because you can feel angry, sad, confident, and hopeful all in one sweep.” Its visionary to consider how a single step, word, shot can change the course of events. But that is what these young adults have, vision. They see the issues and understand the weight they carry. They also recognize that BLM is a symbol for human dignity, respect, and opportunity and that it is not mutually exclusive to any person or groups of people. Rashad summed up how BLM is bigger than just Black people and that it also connects to everyone. “Right now it’s with Black people and the people have a voice to stop these random acts of violence against us because eventually there will be marches for other races. This won’t just stop with black people, all minorities are
going to have issues in the future. You don’t believe me? Let Donald Trump get into office and let’s see who’s upset next. By standing up for this movement it not only helps Black lives, it indirectly helps all lives in the long run because this didn’t work the first time. If this movement fails, we will continue to go backwards as a civilization.” Apart from that, the message is there is power in numbers and change can start where you are. And a political agenda or campaign is not the only route. There are longstanding attitudes that stimulate racial profiling and police brutality. So, every day occurrences can be an even better place to start.
That can mean cultural appreciation over appropriation, being an ally and using your privilege to educate and point out issues, holding people around you accountable for their micro-aggressions, even friends; as a person of color, sharing your experiences and the issues with your peers, not participating in Black on Black violence and crime and building up your community. As a kid, no one notices, much less cares, about the skin color of their best friend Rachel. I know that I never did. If anything, how someone treated you on the playground spoke more volumes than race ever could. And that is the way it still needs to be. No one wants to be put in a box, confined by the others perceptions and prejudice. Saying ‘I’m from Mexico”, “I’m Saudi Arabian”, “I’m bisexual”, “I’m intersex”, “I’m Black” does not have to be limiting, and it shouldn’t be. And that is what the Black Lives Matter movement is talking about.
Get Involved + Learn More Here: http://blacklivesmatter.com/getinvolved/ https://www.facebook.com/BlackLivesMatterAustin https://www.facebook.com/ stedsbsa/?fref=ts https://www.facebook.com/ groups/514561572019948/
gender bender The Synonymity of Menswear and Womenswear
Written by / Caroline Teck Styled by / Sharmeen Anjum & Zachary Dupuis Photographed by / Miriam Vicente & Faith Robbins
Gendered Fashion Yves Saint Laurent made the iconic
statement that “fashion fades, style is eternal”, and it’s true. Fashion is fluid; it is constantly changing from season to season, designer to designer, place to place. Nothing stays the same very long in fashion. There are very few constants to rely on and even the few aspects of fashion that one might think are dependent are oftentimes some of the most naturally fluid parts. One such seemingly naturally constant aspect of fashion is gender; genderspecific clothing, gender-specific style, gender-specific fashions. A majority of people would say that gender is probably one of the most dependent parts of fashion that is not fluid. However, if we look at fashion, it is more often than not one of the most fluid aspects of clothing, style, and fashion. Gender-jumping fashion has been overlooked in the past, but has recently come to the forefront of fashion’s narrative. Our society has been so consumed with definitive genders for so long that when we change something we change it for good and don’t look back at it. Except in fashion. Different fashions and
styles have been jumping back and forth from gender to gender for years. Gender is essentially a result of societal norms and conventions that are placed upon us from the second we are born when hospitals adorn frail, wrinkled little babies with either blue or pink onesies used to differentiate a child’s gender. Blue for boys and pink for girls. Everyone knows that colors, particularly those two, are connected to gender and always have been. However, they have not always been connected to the genders that we associate with them now. In fact, historically pink was seen as a very strong, masculine color and blue was perceived as being calmer and more feminine, but at some point around World War II pink became a stereotypically feminine color and blue was seen as a strictly masculine color. Nowadays though, particularly in the past few generations, it’s become common for little girls to love blue and young boys are less likely to be teased and taunted for liking pink. This is one of the most classic examples of gender-jumping stereotypes.
Pants or No Pants The first major piece of clothing that
started the modern trend of genderjumping in fashion were jeans. They were manufactured purely with working men in mind. No woman caught in jeans, or pants at all for that matter, would be considered fashionable let alone respectable. That is until women started working in factories and taking over men’s jobs when the majority of men went to fight in the war. This started the movement that not only led to women becoming more liberated in vocation and education, but also fashion. When pants shifted from being made exclusively for men to being made for women as well, boundaries were broken when it came to gender-specific clothing. Next came the neutralization of menswear for women. From tailored suits, boxy cuts on shirts, and trousers, women started to wear more and more menswear. This movement then spread to shoes with girls rocking oxfords and loafers just as well as any man might, completing the suits’ transformation from an exclusively masculine fashion into an androgynous style.
As fashion developed, certain styles and types of clothing shifted back and forth between both genders multiple times. From overalls being purely a masculine item, to becoming a commonly feminine item, and then more recently shifting back so that men are becoming comfortable with wearing them once again. The same goes with jeans which as stated above were originally a men’s closet staple, but which later then joined women’s clothing and expanded to include numerous different styles and fashions (such as embellished, colored, skinny, boyfriend and torn jeans) that were purely for women. However, in the past few years those traditionally feminine styles that were previously worn exclusively by women have become common in men’s fashion as well.
Couture or Common Most
recently, fashion has made extreme changes in gender-jumping more focused on styles that were previously exclusively feminine but which are now becoming accepted as menswear as well. For example, crop tops, skirts, and dresses have never been seen as men’s clothing, but in the past few years they’ve been seen increasingly often in menswear fashion shows and are beginning to be worn on the streets by more fashion forward male bloggers and stylists. Along with these more high fashion examples come some more common everyday styles such as tunics or clothing with floral or pastel motifs that any guy would wear. These were never seen on men before the mid-60s and 70s but are now so common most people do not think twice about them as being gender-neutral. Soon, with the modernization of society, came icons that challenged gender stereotypes. For example David Bowie and more recently Tilda Swinton, who were not only androgynous but who also tended to wear clothing that is stereotypically assigned to the opposite gender.
These famous celebrities, musicians, and fashion icons changed the public’s perception of gender-specific versus gender-neutral clothing. However, being icons was what allowed them to stretch and shift gendered clothing boundaries and still be accepted. A normal person walking down the street did not have that luxury. Until now. As designers begin to show more androgynous styles and stores begin to have unisex collections the line separating gender is blurring. Our generation has become one of the most accepting of gender-jumping and gender-neutral fashions, with women wearing what used to be stereotypically menswear as often as they wear what used to be stereotypically women’s styles, and men doing the same with styles that were stereotypically female. A couple decades ago it would have been unacceptable for a woman to wear a large, plaid button down with loose jeans, or for a man to wear a floral t-shirt with pastel shorts. However, today it is common to see any of those styles on any person regardless of gender.
student spotlight Mitchell Asanza
Austin Marshall Senior / Digital Media Management Major
Follow Austin at / soundcloud.com/yungtorrent
Austin Marshall is a man with many irons in the fire, and for good reason—he delivers. He co-founded Topper Radio his freshman year, he worked as music coordinator for the University Programming Board, and he’s worked as the digital assistant at C3 Management. It doesn’t stop there, he’s has helped with the development of the (hueman) DNA clothing line with former Hilltopper, Daniel Lane, and helps manage music producers Hunt For The Breeze and Tim Gunter. So it goes without saying is this guy has his sh*t on lock. He’s quick to get into projects he is passionate about, and this has gotten him involved with some really cool things. Some notable people he draws inspiration from include Virgil Abloh, Kanye West’s creative director and designer of OFF-WHITE and formerly of Pyrex Vision, and Brendon Babenzien, former designer and creative director of Supreme and founder of Noah. The common trait these movers and shakers possess is the ability to affect change, and influence attitudes and trends. These folks have their hands in music, fashion, and art, and contribute to the progression of whatever medium they’re working in. As for Austin, he hopes to keep working in a music-related field after graduating. Since knowing Austin, we have seen his impact on the St. Edward’s campus and in everything he is involved with, and we are sure he will be part of other successful projects in the future.
Micky Benthall Junior / Digital Media Management Major
Follow Micky at / soundcloud.com/cakemicks twitter.com/cakemicks
St. Ed’s Junior, Micky is heavily involved with the music both as an artist, and on the business end of things. She has held A&R and artist management positions for C3 and On Vinyl Media based in Austin, and Brodie’s Fault Records based in Houston. These organizations promote and produce music events, most notably, C3 with Austin City Limits. On Vinyl was founded by St. Edward’s students, and they have been hosting and promoting events in Austin that foster a community of local artists and musicians. In addition to her work behind the scenes, she’s also a multi-instrumentalist, singer, and songwriter. She cites R&B, both new and old, as well as classic rock to be her biggest influences, noting Banks, Billie Holiday, and Sylvan Esso as influential artists. Future projects she has planned include solo work, and features on others’ tracks. Check out one of her features here. Andrea Lety Burns Senior / Communication Major
Follow Andrea at / soundcloud.com/andrealetyburns twitter.com/andrealetyburns
Andrea has been pursuing music for the past few years. She has solo work as a singer and songwriter and also a new band with fellow Hill Topper Jackson King. Her sound is dreamy, modern, pop music, allowing her influences like Lana Del Rey, and Lorde to shine through. Andrea draws influence from everything from the pop mentioned above, to Bob Dylan and Nirvana. She wants to be honest with her listeners, and allow them to get to know her through her music and visual accompaniments. She’s got some projects in the pipeline as well, including music videos for her tracks “Bottom Of Your Soul” and “Nightmare Made Me A Butterfly.” She’s also got several other tracks coming soon including one titled, “Temporary Love.” Andrea has been very devoted to her music, and we look forward to her projects to come.
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CABRA | Austin, TX