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DEC ‘0

WINTER EDITION 8-

FEB ‘0

9


GOT YOUR CAMERA? You’re going to need one on this scenic trip, as Cabo Noche and Dollar Rent A Car show you how to discover the roads less traveled in Mexico’s Baja California Sur.

Story By: Derrick Grahn Photography: Alex Thomson Models: Crissty Santana and Chase Harrington


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Migri単o arroyo, Heading to Candelaria


WINTER 2008/09 | HAUTTER.COM

DAY ONE

Baja Sur is in bloom after receiving several recent bouts of rain. No better time to explore the southern peninsula while it is green and lush, and taking advantage of off-season. With an idea of where we were headed and the kind of terrain we may face, we opted for renting a Hummer H3 from Dollar Rent A Car for our exploratory tour of lower Baja California Sur. The H3 is a sure fire way to handle what ever we may come across in our travels. After getting the keys to our new Hummer (and full insurance!), we grabbed several good maps of Baja Sur, available at Dollar, and headed to get the supplies for our trip. Head over to any tienda (store) and get recommended travel items: a flashlight, compass, a small cooler packed with plenty of water, snacks, beer and sandwich stuff. Grab some beach towels, sunscreen, a small portable grill, sleeping bag and a couple duffle bags to fit everything into. Don’t forget a digital camera (or two), clothing for several days and nights –pack light and kept it simple: shorts, a few t-shirts, swimwear, a sweatshirt, a pair of jeans and a couple hats. Most importantly… cash! Many places outside of Los Cabos do not take credit cards and in the rough terrain of Baja, cash is king. Next we headed to Costa Azul in San José del Cabo (across from Zipper’s Beach), to pick up two surfboards rented for our trip. Costa Azul helped us select the best boards for our experience and even hooked us up with roof mounting straps and showed us how to mount the boards to the roof of the H3. More at www.costa-azul.com.mx.

By the early afternoon, we headed out of Cabo San Lucas up the Pacific side towards Todos Santos on coastal highway 19.

By the early afternoon, we headed out of Cabo San Lucas up the Pacific side towards Todos Santos on coastal highway 19. Our first turn off of the main highway was only about 30 minutes out of town. As we headed up a


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WINTER 2008/09 | HAUTTER.COM

On the path to Candelaria

large Migriño arroyo, in search of a small town called Candelaria. Traveling the main highways of Baja Sur is not much different than a small rural road you might find in the countryside’s of the U.S.A., but speckled with goats and little or no shoulders. However, do not expect the same when turning off these main Baja Sur highways, thus the H3. On the maps, you may see a line that represents a road. However in actuality, what is printed in your map may actually signify more of a goat trail, made of sand and dirt. But don’t be alarmed, that is just the way it is out here in the Baja outback. Besides, you will come to discover that this is part of the charm and what makes a trip of this nature so special, memorable and so adventurous. Heading up the arroyo was instantly amazing. The H3 was like an over sized ATV, without the uncomfortable grit (sand dirt, etc). Only thirty or so minutes

CELEBRITIES CABO

2003

Brad Pitt is on location for the shooting of the movie TROY, which was shot in and around the beaches of Los Cabos and Baja Sur.

out of Cabo and the trip was already worth it. Jetting rocky mountain walls surrounded both sides of us as we made our way up the deep gorge, while the blue sunny skies reflected off the beautiful sun bleached sand. Fifteen minutes down this sandy ravine and we hadn’t even passed another car or person, only several horses and random buzzards. You may begin feeling a bit lost or that you are perhaps going the wrong way. But don’t worry, that feeling will pass. You will bump into other people; tiny towns or ranches and eventually, you will find your way to the hidden gems of Baja Sur. Baja Sur is made up of an amazing array of microclimates; from dry cactus filled desert to moist oasis areas with dense greenery, palm trees and even natural spring waters flowing from the ground. You will see a lot of fee range livestock – cattle, donkeys, horses, chickens, roosters, pigs, goats and even turkeys. The views are

2004

April 9th John Travolta’s surprise 50th-birthday blowout. The 250+ revelers included Tom Cruise, Sean Penn, Sylvester Stallone, Meg Ryan, Quincy Jones and many more.


WINTER 2008/09 | HAUTTER.COM


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WINTER 2008/09 | HAUTTER.COM

As we approached the township of El Pescadero, we made a pit stop at one of our favorite eclectic bars...

On the way to Tecolote Beach in La Paz

breathtaking and the journey gives you a true sense of tranquility as you realize how much beauty is surrounding you. It is just you on the Baja outback, discovering things you were unable to imagine before taking this trip.

AT CANDELARIA

After a short time being pleasantly disoriented and driving in what seamed to be circles, we eventually found our way to Candelaria. It was not exactly what we were expecting; yet it was satisfying enough. Candelaria is a petite and quiet mountain village in the middle of nowhere. To us, everything we discovered along the way to finding this little parish made it worth our while. We took a break, stretched our legs, asked (in our awkward Spanglish) for directions to Todos Santos and hit the road, or should I say dirt. I’m not sure how, but we made it, we found our way back to Highway 19. We took a right turn and headed up the

CELEBRITIES CABO

smooth asphalt towards Todos Santos. As we approached the township of El Pescadero, we made a pit stop at one of our favorite eclectic bars, Arts & Beer, on the ocean side of Highway 19, around kilometer 69 (see map on page 120). The crew ordered Clamato and beer concoctions, made of Clamato, your beer of choice, fresh seafood, and what ever is available, which on this day was caviar, wasabi, fresh clams, celery and more. We were on a tight schedule, so we quickly enjoyed our beverages and pushed on. However, I must say that Arts & Beer is a wonderful place to catch the Pacific Ocean sunset before retiring for a nights stay in one of Todos Santos’ much-admired bed and breakfast hotels. Another enjoyable diversion on your way to Todos is the newly opened Cerritos Beach Club, which is only several more miles past Arts & Beer. To get there, you would turn

2006

2005

October Adam Sandler enjoys a stay and surfing at Cabo September Surf Hotel. Christina Aguilera stayed at the One&Only Palmilla.

January Beyonce, Jay-Z and Kelly Rowland in Squid Roe. They stayed at Esperanza Resort.


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Sunset on the Malecon, La Paz

left around kilometer 65 (see map on page 120), down the dirt road. You will find Cerritos Beach Club all the way at the end, on the beach. Cerritos is a wonderful place to surf, swim and relax. The Beach Club serves drinks, ice-cold beer and appetizing chow. More at www.cerritosbcs.com. We chose to feast in Todos Santos for dinner. Todos Santos is an artsy Mexican town filled with fine restaurants, galleries, shops, cafĂŠs and more. Todos is one of the places we at Cabo Noche and Hautter.com recommend that everyone should visit at

CELEBRITIES CABO

2006

June Jennifer Aniston and Vince Vaughn enjoyed a stay at Villas Del Mar in Palmilla.

least once while on vacation in Los Cabos. After a stroll through several downtown stores, we headed to our favorite Todos Santos restaurant, Il Giardino Pizzeria Trattoria. Il Giardino is an Italian owned and operated gem of cuisine. Everything on the menu is superb, made with fresh and mostly organic ingredients. Being Giardino regulars, our recommendations are their tender garlic roasted chicken and the potato rosemary pizza. Believe us, you will absolutely not be disappointed. Read more about this amazing restaurant and Todos Santos at www.hautter.com/todo-pacifico.

June Desperate Housewife star, Eva Longoria and they boyfriend Tony Parker enjoyed Cabo Dolphins in Cabo San Lucas.

June and July Brad Pitt, Demi Moore, Ashton Kutcher and Orlando Bloom were all spotted in Los Cabos.


WINTER 2008/09 | HAUTTER.COM

ESPIRITU SANTO ISLAND

LA PAZ

After a truly fulfilling meal, complete with homemade desserts of tiramisu and crème brulee, we pushed on to La Paz. As true adventurers (and being off-season), we had no plans of where we would stay or camp each night, we just winged it. Near sunset, we found ourselves on the Malecon, a beautiful stretch of road and boardwalk, running alongside the marina and bay of La Paz. The Malecon boardwalk was packed with people, all of which were enjoying the amazing view as they strolled casually down the wide well lit stretch of sidewalk that ran alongside the

2006 July Jessica Simpson marked her 26th birthday with her parents and close friends in Cabo. San Lucas.

PLAYA EL COYOTE PLAYA EL TECOLOTE PLAYA BALANDRA

PLAYA PICHILINGUE

PLAYA EL TESORO

PLAYA EL CAIMANCITO

PLAYA EL COROMUEL

MOGOTE

LA PAZ

September Lance Armstrong grabs a drink with local Brent Underdahl (co-owner of Cabo Pimp N’ Ho Costume Ball) at Nowhere Bar.


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WINTER 2008/09 | HAUTTER.COM Looking over San Antonio

road. La Paz is absolutely serene, hence its name, which in English means “peace”. For our stay, we settled at Hotel Marina, which turned out to be a great choice. We completed our evening with a swim in the pool and late night poolside service from Dinghy Dock, the hotel’s restaurant and bar. The rooms were comfortable and quite and included air conditioning and a kitchenette. Hotel Marina is located on the Malecon’s east end. More about Hotel Marina can be found at www.hotelmarina.com.mx

DAY TWO

A plentiful breakfast buffet at the Dinghy Dock made for a perfect start to our journey ahead. Fresh squeezed orange juice, coffee, pastries, bacon, sausage, omelets and pancakes made directly in front of us, French toast, yum… this breakfast hit the spot, as did the peaceful marina view. We made our way out of town

CELEBRITIES CABO

on Camino a Pichilingue (the coastal road), passing several ferry and barge ports. This is where you can catch a ferry to Mexico’s mainland – another adventure path worth eventually traveling. After passing the ports, we begin to notice an all-new aesthetic; different from what we are used to in Los Cabos and unlike what we had seen the previous day. This stretch of road is completely breathtaking. We felt like we were in a Corona beer commercial. The road twisted and swerved up and down along beautiful, uninhabited, white and soft sand beaches with jewel blue green waters that seamed to never end. The beaches located off Camino a Pichilingue face Puerto Balandra, a calm and undisturbed saltwater lagoon that seams to be as endless as the beaches that frame it. Being summer vacation time for European tourists, we noticed many more Europeans than Americans while on our visit

2007

December Jennifer Aniston, Courtney Cox, David Arquette and Sheryl Crow enjoyed a getaway at Esperanza Resort in Cabo San Lucas. They rang in 2007 with dinner at Mi Casa Restaurant.

February Sarah Michelle Gellar enjoys a brief vacation in Cabo San Lucas.


WINTER 2008/09 | HAUTTER.COM

Reservations Recommended

SAN JOSÉ DEL CABO: (624) 142 4041 CABO SAN LUCAS: (624) 143 6898 See maps, p. 122 & 126 www.lapanga.com


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to this beautiful coastline. It was refreshing to see that Baja Sur was far worldlier than we had realized. In the afternoon we turned around at Playa El Coyote, which was the end of Camino a Pichilingue. The only way out is to return back to La Paz.

TOWARDS THE EAST COAST OF BAJA SUR

We headed out of La Paz, driving south on Highway 1, one of the two highways in Baja Sur. Just after the small village of San Pedro,

CELEBRITIES CABO June Brooke Burke and family enjoyed Medano Beach in Cabo San Lucas.

2007

we veered left (or east) towards Los Barriles, which also leads back to Los Cabos. We were careful not to veer right, towards Todos Santos, where we were the day before. About thirty minutes down the road, we found ourselves floating into El Triunfo. I say floating, because the approach to El Triunfo from La Paz is down hill and the view of this tranquil village gives you the sense that you are hovering as you pull into it. We were unable to find a restaurant, at least not one that was open at the time we arrived. This is when it is good to have a cooler of snacks and

August Tara Reid vacations at ME by Meli達 Cabo. She spent her days at Nikki Beach and Medano Beach and enjoyed Passion Club at night.

August Will Smith and Jada Pinkett Smith enjoy a vacation and rounds of golf in Los Cabos.


WINTER 2008/09 | HAUTTER.COM Playa Balandra

A SECRET OASIS

sandwiches. After a short sandwich break and some photos, we were on our way to San Antonio. San Antonio is an old mining town, built around a small grouping of aged structures, a church and the remains of fatigued mines. Many photographers take advantage of the picturesque brick chimneystacks that mark the town’s skyline. Depending on your appetite for adventure, you could choose to head east towards the towns of El Sargento, Las Arenas, Costa de Oro and Ensanada Los Muertos.

August Adam Sandler and his family stayed at ME by Meliã Cabo. The staff at “ME” even built a mini Chinese opium bed for his English bulldog, Motzaball to sleep in.

2007

LA PAZ

SEA OF CORTEZ

SAN PEDRO EL TRIUNFO

September The season finale of Rock of Love (a VH1 reality series) featuring Bret Michaels (lead singer of Poison) was shot in San Lucas.

SAN ANTONIO SAN BARTOLO LOS BARRILES BUENAVISTA SANTIAGO

Nicole Richie and Joel Madden stayed at Las Ventanas.


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WINTER 2008/09 | HAUTTER.COM Buenavista

Due to our particular schedule, we opted to continue on towards Los Barriles. We arrived in Los Barriles and began taking a look around. Famous for its fishing, windsurfing and kite surfing, Los Barriles is a quiet and charming community on the edge of the Sea of Cortez. A noteworthy fishing hub, anglers can expect to catch blue, black and striped marlin, enormous Wahoo, tuna, yellowtail, sailfish, roosterfish and Dorado in these premier sport fishing waters. Scuba diving, snorkeling, eco- and adventure tours, horseback riding, kayaking, Jet Ski and ATV riding and hiking can be had in Los Barriles too.

A SECRET OASIS

Just ten minutes south of Los Barriles, sits the tiny town of Buenavista (beautiful view). On a strong referral of our friend Josh, we stayed the night at Hotel Buenavista. Over 30 years of family run history add to Hotel Buenavista’s charm. The hotel features many

CELEBRITIES CABO November Sandra Bullock vacation’s in Los Cabos.

water fountains, a beautiful pool, well kept grounds, comfortable rooms, pleasant staff, a gorgeous beach, full restaurant and bar and even its own experienced fishing fleet. The rooms feel open and large due to the double entrance, with sliding glass doors leading to your own hammock and to the pool. Past the pool you can stroll on the path through mature foliage and fountains down to the beach. Perhaps the most impressive amenity of Hotel Buenavista is its water. Set atop a natural hot spring aquifer, the water flowing into the hotel is amazingly pure –perhaps even more pure than some bottled waters that we drink. Instead of hot water heaters, Hotel Buenavista has had to install cold water coolers, in order to cool down the water in which naturally flows hot. The water at Hotel Buenavista is not only drinkable, but considered to be therapeutic as well. We decided to experience the salutary waters for

2007

November Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen were bridesmaids at their manager’s wedding in Cabo San Lucas, Mexico.

November Adam Sandler was in Cabo San Lucas filming the movie Zohan.


WINTER 2008/09 | HAUTTER.COM

Blvd Mijares, San Jos茅 del Cabo Plaza Misi贸n #8 624-142-6655 www.LocalEight.com R E S E R VA T I O N S S U G G E S T E D


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WINTER 2008/09 | HAUTTER.COM

Buenavista

LA PAZ

SEA OF CORTEZ

SAN PEDRO EL TRIUNFO

SAN ANTONIO SAN BARTOLO LOS BARRILES BUENAVISTA

TODOS SANTOS PA C

IFI

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OC

SANTIAGO CABO PULMO

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PESCADERO CERRITOS BEACH ART’S & BEER N

SAN JOSE DEL CABO CABO SAN LUCAS

ourselves, with a relaxing dip in their hot tub, which is filled directly with hot spring water. At this point of our journey, we were only an hour or so drive from Los Cabos, yet in the timeless serenity of this hotel and destination, we felt as if we had taken another vacation on top of our vacation, to a place that was simply too neat to fully

CELEBRITIES CABO

describe. We were in the zone now, relaxation that is felt only on rare occasions like these. In only a couple of days, we had experienced more unique sight seeing than many see in their entire stay while in Los Cabos.

DAY THREE

Being the middle of summer, it was fairly hot outside but we still grabbed a wonderful early breakfast at Hotel Buenavista’s restaurant on the beach. We departed Buenavista heading south, towards the legendary Cabo Pulmo, considered by many to be the diving capital of Baja and perhaps even the entire West Coast of North America. In fact, Jacques Cousteau once called Cabo Pulmo, “The Aquarium of the World.”

CABO PULMO REEF

The live coral reef is embedded within the Cabo Pulmo National Park. The Cabo Pulmo Reef is the only hard reef in the Baja California peninsula, and is one of only three living reefs

2007

December Actor Adrian Grenier performed with his band, The Honey Brothers, at Nikki Beach. View photos from this event at www.hautter.com/gallery/07_12


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On the Beach of Shipwreck

in all of North America. The reef is said to be home to over 250 different species of fish, as well as a nesting and feeding site for a great variety of birds, whale sharks, gray whales, as well as Loggerhead, Hawksbill, Olive Ridley, Black and Leatherback Sea Turtles – some of monstrous proportions. Cabo Pulmo is considered to be one of the most bio-diverse ecosystems in the entire world. Recognized as one of Mexico’s many natural protected areas, Cabo Pulmo is under the stewardship of Amigos para la Conservación de Cabo Pulmo (ACCP),

CELEBRITIES CABO

a local grassroots network of fishermen and residents dedicated to protecting this precious ecosystem, and preserving the natural resources of Cabo Pulmo. More at www.pulmoamigos.org We enjoyed a break over lunch at the Coral Reef Restaurant, located atop a busy dive shop. The ceviche was super fresh and the beer, ice cold. Cabo Pulmo was buzzing with people from all over the world. While dining in Coral Reef Restaurant, we conversed with people from Europe, Asia, North America and

2008

In town for the December 7th Honey Brother’s gig, the Kardashian sisters spent a week enjoying ME by Meliã Cabo, Nikki Beach, Passion Club and Medano Beach.

March Enrique Iglesias (shown with Zaret Del Toro) enjoys an evening at Zoo Bar and Dance in downtown Cabo San Lucas.


WINTER 2008/09 | HAUTTER.COM

beyond. Cabo Pulmo seamed to attract a wide range of visitors, including families, couples, retirees and adventure seekers. Though many of the tourists seamed to be avid scuba professionals, we quickly learned that beginners were more than welcome to enjoy the wonders of Cabo Pulmo. Though scuba diving and snorkeling are the “staples” of Cabo Pulmo, this destination offers a variety of additional tours and activities, including fishing, kayaking, hiking, biking, windsurfing, bird, whale and wildlife watching and more.

SURFING

If you’re a surf enthusiast, no trip to Cabo is complete without trekking to our next stop, Shipwreck. This break got its name from a wrecked ship that was beached here years ago. The actual shipwreck was detached from the shoreline by a hurricane in the 1980’s, but the name stuck. Shipwreck has gained regard due to its ability to pick up many ocean swells. The ocean shore faces south, instead of southeast, such as The Rock and Zippers in San José del Cabo, allowing Shipwreck to pick up swell more consistently. For non-surfers, CONTINUED ON PAGE 64

2008 April New York Giants quarterback Eli Manning married Abby McGrew in Cabo San Lucas.

May Tracy McGrady of the NBA’s Huston Rockets spent evenings at Passion Club and Zoo Bar and Dance.

October Puff Daddy and Peter Safran at the 10th Annual Pimp N’ Ho, Costume Ball Party 2008 at ME Hotel.


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Shipwreck is still a beach worth visiting.

PIZZA, BEER AND FILET MIGNON

After hitting the waves for a short session, we were loaded back up and on the trail to San José del Cabo. The road is still unpaved until you get to the new San José marina, then it is smooth sailing into San José. Upon arriving into town all of us were hungry and in need of brew and some grub. The crew decided to hit the BBC, short for Baja Brewing Company. (page 103). We devoured the BBC’s wood fired pizza, Cabo homemade micro-brewed beer and even some fabulous filet mignon. Everything was full of flavor, the beer was cold and the atmosphere was fitting for the last stop on our trip. View

Premium wines from the Worlds most prestigious appellations; aged, blended and bottled here in Los Cabos. Tasting Lounge and Tapas Bar open to public soon. Join our email list at www.hautter.com/cabo-winery

photos of and read more about BBC at www. hautter.com/bbc

DO IT!

Exploring Baja Sur is one of those things in which we recommend to anyone who is on vacation here in Cabo. You have made it this far, so why not? Things to remember: Bring your camera, reserve your Hummer H3 and travel safe and responsibly. Gas stations are limited in certain areas, so be sure to refill as often as possible. Lastly, enjoy yourself as your explore one of the most unique geographical areas of the world. Reserve your Hummer H3 or other 4x4 vehicle today. Call Dollar Rent A Car at 624.105.8410 or visit www. dollarloscabos.com.

Available soon at Baja Sur’s finest hotels, lounges and and restaurants. Schedule your private tasting today. + (624) 143-8088 info@loscaboswinery.net


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Got Your Camera Article - Cabo Noche #11  

You’re going to need one on this scenic trip, as Cabo Noche shows you how to discover the roads less traveled in Mexico’s Baja California Su...