Larrimor’s Forum/The Substance of Style/Spring 2011
THE BLUE BLAZER AN OLD SCHOOL STAPLE LEARNS NEW TRICKS
FASHION HEATS UP! LIVED-IN LUXURY IT’S ALL ABOUT SOFT…
LARRIMOR’S 249 Fifth Avenue, Pittsburgh 412-471-5727 The Galleria, Mt. Lebanon 412-344-5727 EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR
Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR
Jillian Sprague PROJECT MANAGER
Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS
Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS
Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR
Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION
Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS
Hugh K. Stanton
FEATURES 16 Uncommon Loyalty
BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER
28 Style: The Finer Things
PRESIDENT AND CEO
48 Sports Style: Chip Ganassi
CHAIRMAN AND COO
52 Inspiration: The Warhol Look
Britton Jones Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER
56 Design for a Living World APPAREL FORUM
22 Fashion Forward 30 Accessories: Ode to the Pocket Square 34 Brighten Up! 42 Celebrating the Iconic Blue Blazer
DEPARTMENTS 20 Ask Forum for Her 24 Ask Forum for Him
Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 12 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM COPYRIGHT 2011. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212-6866821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, TRANSPARENCIES OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN
60 Humor: The Shopping Gene
PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 14, ISSUE 1. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
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SHOP SPRING LARRIMOR’S for her celebrates spring 2011 with new lines and must-have looks. b y L I S A M I C h A e L , 3 R D g e n e R At I O n C O - O W n e R
WhILe We ALL LOve SpRIng fOR WhAt It SyMbOLIzeS, I particularly
at the neckline or shoulders to soften edges. We have flow-
love thIS spring because of the fabulous things that are
ing, draped looks from Iris, etro, Lilla p and gender bias.
happening at LARRIMOR’S for her. new designers. new
styles. new looks. Oh my! Let’s start with the designers and styles. All are personal
favorites that I can’t wait to share with you.
DRESSES AND SKIRTS In all shapes and sizes. We adore nautical stripes on a jersey swing dress, the new neutrals (icy gray, pale blush and soft
for Resort, we’ve introduced valentino Red, Minnie Rose
taupe) in long and lean draped jersey, crisp shirtdresses and
and Marc Cain. for Modern Mix, we’ve added vince, Robert
novelty skirts with tab belts, grommets and other uniquely
Rodriguez, gender bias, nanette Lepore and Milly this spring.
And for Feminine Classics, we have great looks from gerard Darel, Sita Murt, Raffinalla and Max Mara Weekend. every year there are must-have looks that embody the sea-
PROPORTIONS RULE Oversized tops from vince and Robert Rodriguez look fresh over
son. here are our choices for spring 2011.
slimmer bottoms. try them with skinny ankle pants, leggings or
THE ANORAK JACKET
also wear a higher waist pant or a wide leg pant; the trick is to
In tech fabrics. try orange, royal, yellow or olive—all great
always contrast the top and bottom proportions. If you love
colors to wear back to favorite neutrals like white, khaki, black
crops and skinny jeans, try a flowing or draped top. If your pref-
or denim. Layer one over leggings and a long tee as your ca-
erence is a wider, straighter leg or tailored pants, balance your
sual chic uniform. Wear with jeans anytime or as a fashion
look with a fitted knit, blouse or slim tee on top. When in doubt,
layer over a pencil skirt. Look for the short trench, mixed fab-
mix the proportion. Or call us, we are always happy to help.
a slimming jean (we love DL1961 with 4-way stretch). you can
rics in solid colors…and lots of textural details.
SHOP SPRING, NOW DRAPED JERSEY
finally, for those of you who love change, we have new mer-
In tops, skirts and dresses. Whether casual or dressy. these
chandise arriving weekly, if not daily. Many items are here, then
soft fabrics feel great and are super feminine. Look for ruch-
gone. So a word to the wise…when you see it and love it, buy it!
ing at the hips and waist for subtle camouflage, and shirring
M I L Ly
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LOYALTY CELEBRATING THE WORLD’S MOST LOYAL ASSOCIATES
In a day when change is the only constant and the workplace is more transient than ever before, we are thrilled to work with a group of consummate professionals, who we believe are unprecedented in their collective loyalty... to our business, our industry and to their beloved customers.
From our office staff to our tailors and associates, at both One PNC Plaza and the Galleria, you will encounter people who have been with us for 10+ years. Here, with tremendous gratitude, we pay special homage to the rarefied group who has worked with us for over 20...
It’s very simple. I’m loyal to my job because they let me be my own person and trust me to do whatever I think is right. This gives me great satisfaction. — Bob Rosati
photoS: archie carpenter
LOYALTY It seems like yesterday that Carl hired me. We’ve all grown so much together and they’ve truly made me part of the Larrimor’s family. My customers are part of our extended family as well. — Greg Gratton
ASKFORUM I’ve been wearing leggings and skinny pants for the past few seasons; are they still in style?
Yes, slim pants are still in style. But so are softer, fuller models. For spring 2011, it’s all about proportion and balance. Choose either slim-fitting tops with tailored fuller pants, or go with volume on top balanced by a slimmer bottom. While there will always be exceptions, this is a good rule of thumb when you’re unsure. Better yet, come into the store and let us show you how it works.
Are shorts appropriate for the office?
As they say in real estate, it’s about location, location, location. Where you wear shorts and where the hem hits your leg should reflect dress codes at your company and within your particular industry. If you love wearing shorts and they meet with company standards, keep your peers focused on your work (and not your gams) by skipping the short shorts. And never go too bare on top when you’re wearing shorts—showing too much skin is a distraction and sends a less-than-professional message. Finally, keep your shoes casual, yet polished. A neutral wedge, fabric espadrille or cute flat works best. When in doubt about shorts at the office, don’t wear them. A skirt that hits just above the knee is a safer bet.
Definitely. Ruffles don’t have to be done in a big way. If you’re lucky enough to have height, larger ruffles work easily. If you’re petite, don’t let the ruffles overwhelm you: Look for mini ruffles as trim, or one or two soft, draping ruffles. In fact, a slightly ruffled blouse or tank is a great way to temper a too-rigid suit or blazer. The crisp white ruffled shirt is a wardrobe essential, but otherwise stick to drapey fabrics...so your ruffles won’t have ridges.
IMAGE COURTESY OF BOSS BLACK
I love ruffles but I’m neither tall nor skinny; can I wear them?
FASHION FORWARD By LISA MICHAEL
than a bright sunny day
GArmEnT WASHEd SHirTS A more relaxed, softer alterna-
after months of cold, dreary Pittsburgh weather? you
tive to your crisp, classic sport shirt. these shirts up the cool
know the feeling. When the dramatic shift in tempera-
quotient by being washed after being sewn. the result: textural
ture, and attitude, emerges.
interest at the seams and placket, as well as the body and
S tHErE AnytHIng MorE grAtIfyIng
Spring fashion is all about aesthetics. the subtle yet important
sleeves of the shirt. this season, look for great linens from
shifts to a clean, modern look in tailored clothing. A look that is
robert talbott, oxfords from B.D. Baggies, textured stripes from
comfortable, yet trim (yes, pleated pants are out, flat-front is in).
robert graham and Liberty of London prints from georg roth.
This spring, tailored clothing for men takes on a relaxed, modern look at Larrimor’s. fresh, yet timeless (repeat after me, you CAN wear a fitted
SHOrTS for everywhere—and we mean it! Peter Millar tailored
shirt). Progressive and present, not out-of-touch and outdated.
shorts are great on the golf course. nat nast’s silk/cotton is a
full of style and substance. Certain to turn heads in both the
dressier look that will get you compliments. We also have cargo
boardroom…and the bedroom. Do we have your attention
shorts, linen shorts, seersucker and other novelties. our newest
now? We thought so. Come in and let’s talk. In the meantime,
favorite is nat nast’s Volley short that can also be worn for
consider our must-haves for spring 2011.
swimming. you could literally wear it all day long!
THE “SOFT” JACKET Absolutely tops on our list. With a less
TEE & POlO SElECTiOnS Both run the gamut, from elegant
formal construction than your classic sportcoat. this look is ca-
silk/cotton by nat nast, to sun-washed jersey from robert
sual, yet still refined. During the week, wear it and add instant
talbott. Both are equally at home under a blazer or over
style to your khakis, polo or sport shirt. on the weekend, throw
shorts—just not all at once! Peter Millar’s double pique is avail-
it over a tee and your favorite jeans. Look for textured solids or
able in fresh, new colors. raffi’s aqua cotton is super soft—
novelty fabrics in cotton, linen and silk blends. this season, we
one touch and you will want to wear it. As always, we have
have great jackets from Z Zegna, robert talbott, Ibiza and robert
great garment-washed knits from Agave.
graham. A great soft jacket will become your new best friend. SHOES finally, all these great casual looks are finished with BillS KHAKiS Back and better than ever! In new washes, two
the right shoe. this spring, look for moccasins and drivers—
great fits and additional colors available within a week of your re-
new in distressed suede and pebble grains. the classic boat
quest. this spring, choose from Standard fit and their new trim
shoe and the fisherman sandal also make a comeback in new
fit (both in flat-front models). for the traditionalist, we can quickly
leather grains in rich caramel tones. once you add details (like
get you the relaxed (original) fit and Standard fit with reverse
leather laces, a silver bit, or the driver sole) you will have that
Pleats. Look for the 7.7 ounce Vintage twill, washed down like
certain something…a relaxed, yet polished style. Look good
your old favorites. We are also excited to bring you the 6.3 ounce
without looking like you tried too hard is the motto with casual
Chamois Cloth—a refined twill for a polished look.
While we love Bills Khakis, we also offer great options in khakis from Hiltl and Robert Graham’s “Khaki Bob.” So, theoretically, you could have a khaki wardrobe that covers you 24/7!
TO BE ONE OF A KIND
My once-youthful husband is starting to show his age. How can he update his image without looking like an idiot? It’s a good question since all too often, middle-aged guys trying to dress “cool” look just plain silly. Here are a few tips for dressing young without looking foolish: 1) Wear clothes that fit. These days, slim (not tight) is in, so anything that’s been hanging in your closet a few years is likely too baggy and poorly proportioned. Try a more current fit with narrower lapels and flat-front trousers. You’re sure to see a difference: even big guys look thinner in fitted clothing. 2) Choose grown-up clothes. Unless you’re on stage with a guitar, ripped jeans and T-shirts are a sign that you’re trying too hard. Premium denim, however, worn with a blazer or soft coat, is modern and appropriate. (Try a plaid sportcoat this season and get noticed, in a good way!) 3) Pay attention to accessories. Great style is all about making a personal statement. Nothing updates your look faster than new eyewear; get rid of those dated frames! Splurge on a beautiful belt or bag, handmade footwear or a special watch. This will modernize your image and make the whole outfit look expensive. 4) What’s old is new again. Cardigan sweaters, knit vests, bowties, boat shoes, and all manner of preppy prints (argyles, plaids) are back in style. The key to pulling it off: pick just a piece or two and wear it with confidence. Choose a classic short trench coat this spring: it will transform whatever else you’re wearing. 5) Good grooming is all important and the right haircut can take years off. Don’t even think about a comb-over (sorry Donald): invest in a good stylist or think about shaving it all off. 6) Don’t take fashion so seriously. Add something playful here and there, even with business attire: bold socks, a fun scarf or pocket square, novelty cufflinks. The only thing worse than trying too hard to dress young is worrying too much about how it all comes together. If you buy quality, you can’t screw it up too badly.
After many seasons of long printed board shorts, swimwear designers are showing more leg. Retro-inspired patterns including stripes, plaids, batiks and bandanna prints will be popular, especially in happy colors. It’s almost a ’60s feeling: start the diet now…
IMAGE BY JON MOE
What’s hot in swimwear for 2011?
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FORMALWEAR RULES TO FOLLOW. BY CARL SLESINGER
THE FINER THINGS When considering an investment, it’s wise to weigh the pros and cons. But when deciding whether to purchase a tuxedo, there is simply no plus side to renting. Formalwear is for life’s milestone events: do you really want to spend your important moments in some other guy’s tux? Whether at a wedding, charity gala or professional event, looking and feeling your best is priceless. Besides, the initial cost will be amortized after only a few wearings. Follow these simple pointers to ensure you make the right choice.
ETIQUITTE: Events touted as ‘black tie’ require a
IMAGE COURTESY OF ISAIA
THE LIFE OF YOUR TUXEDO WILL ALWAYS BE LONGER THAN THAT OF YOUR WIFE’S GOWN.
tuxedo. ‘White tie’ or ‘full dress’ occasions call for tails paired with a white pique tie and matching vest. Full dress is only appropriate after 6 o’clock in the evening and is generally requested at weddings, balls or diplomatic events. COLOR: Black formalwear is classic and the most widely accepted, but navy can be worn at festive events, by those brave enough to pull it off with confidence. Historically, white dinner jackets are appropriate between Memorial Day and Labor Day, and are also generally acceptable on cruises. (If you’re traveling south of the equator, remember that summer runs from late-December through March.) STYLE: The tuxedo was originally designed with a peak lapel. The shawl (rounded) lapel, worn by waiters and the maitre d’, has recently grown in popularity and can be spotted on Hollywood’s red carpets. The notch lapel, styled like a suit, is also an option. Regardless of shape, tuxedo lapels should always have a satin or silk faille facing in the same color as the suiting fabric. CARE: If you’ve been wild and crazy and have soiled your tux, send it to the cleaner right away. If it’s only wrinkled and you aren’t using it again for at least a week, put it on a contoured hanger and let the wrinkles hang out. If you’re not planning to wear it again until “I don’t know when,” hang it, cover with a clothing storage bag that’s open at the bottom, and keep in a dry place. This should keep dust off the shoulders and protect it until your next wearing. As long as your tux fits, you should continue to wear it. Minor alterations can easily be made by a skilled tailor at our store. And when it finally becomes time again to invest in an updated model, this should reassure you: the life of your tuxedo will always be longer than that of your wife’s gown.
ODE TO THE
POCKET SQUARE ITS ASSETS ARE ENDLESS AND ITS DRAWBACKS FEW. BY JILLIAN SPRAGUE
Unexpected Edge The classic way to don a pocket square is with a beautifully tailored suit. Here, it’s white linen in a three point fold. (Three and four point folds also pair well with double breasted blazers—a growing trend—since pointy peaks highlight the jacket’s architectural construction.) Extra style points to the man confident enough to add a small bloom to his lapel.
Fashionable men agree that accessorizing is the make-it-or-break-it of great style, and pocket squares are an effortless way to add interest to your look. They can be worn on almost any occasion (see the proof here) and they come in an incredible array of fabrics, patterns and colors. With such a plethora of options, we
Casual Cool Proof positive that pocket squares don’t have to be stuffy. Worn with a soft coat and linen shorts, the small peek of pattern is fun and makes the outfit feel finished. If you haven’t yet mastered the art of polished casual, it’s time to bring your wardrobe up to speed.
“Pocket squares are like the mood ring of men’s fashion!” —Tyler Mitchell, specialty store merchant
American Style. American Made.
RUNWAY IMAGES ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA. PRODUCT IMAGES ETRO
won’t bore you here with lists of folds (there are at least 15!) and step-by-step howto’s. The internet is a great resource for instructional videos and style inspiration, or better yet, come into the store and our expert stylists will teach you the basics and send you home with a square for every circumstance.
“YOU’LL GET APPROVING NODS FROM
OLDER GENTLEMEN FOR WHOM A POCKET SQUARE HAS ALWAYS BEEN LIKE A FRIEND. AND THE WOMEN YOU MEET…WELL, YOU WILL NOTICE A DIFFERENCE IN THEIR LINGERING GLANCES AND THE GLINT IN THEIR EYES AS THEY SURVEY YOUR ATTIRE.” —ASKMEN.COM
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Photographed by JON MOE Produced by SUSAN F. SIDOR
BRIGHTEN UP! SPRING 2011 IS A SEASON TO LIGHTEN UP, BRIGHTEN UP AND HAVE SOME FUN. ENERGIZE YOUR WARDROBE (AND YOUR LIFE) WITH A SPLASH OF COLOR!
LIGHTEN UP!SOFT FABRICS IN PALE SUNDRENCHED SHADES REFLECT INNER PEACE AND SERENITY. IT’S TIME TO RELAX!
CHEER UP!BOLD COLORS ELEVATE YOUR MOOD. ONCE IN AWHILE, IT’S OKAY TO LIVE DANGEROUSLY…
LOOKING UP!MIX COLOR WITH WHITE FOR A CRISP CLEAN LOOK THAT’S MODERN, FRESH AND OH SO SEXY. IT’S WHAT YOU NEED NOW…
MARKET EDITOR: JOHN JONES; HAIR AND MAKEUP: LAUREN FRENDEN / ARTISTS BY TIMOTHY PRIANO; MODELS: STUART B-WILHELMINA MIAMI; JOSH JOHNSON-WILHELMINA MIAMI; FABRICIO ZUNINO-NEXT MODELS MAIMI; VALESKA-ELITE MODELS; LARISA-ELITE MIAMI; ASSOCIATE EDITOR: TARA FERRI; JEWELRY: ROBIN ROTINIER
CELEBRATING THE ICONIC BLUE BLAZER
A classic wardrobe staple, the quintessential blue blazer graduates from prep school to country club and travels with global sophistication.
Photographed by JON MOE Produced by SUSAN F. SIDOR
NAUTICAL EASE INTO SPRING WITH A KNIT BLAZER FOR THE ULTIMATE IN COMFORT AND COOL. PAIR IT WITH FURNISHINGS THAT POP, CRISP WHITE TROUSERS AND CLASSIC BOAT SHOES. YOU’RE READY FOR THE CAPTAIN’S TABLE
PREP COOL MINIMUM EFFORT, MAXIMUM IMPACT IN AN ITALIAN VERSION OF THE NAVY BLAZER, BOLD PIQUE KNIT POLO, ROLLED-UP TROUSERS AND CLASSIC SNEAKERS. DON’T FORGET THE EYEWEAR: BIGGER IS BETTER THIS SEASON
ASSOCIATE EDITOR: TARA FERRI; GROOMING: MARK LEYLAND; MODELS: PARKER HURLEY-RED MODEL MANAGEMENT; PAUL FRANCIS-Q MODELS; ASSISTANT: JULIO FRIAS; PROPS: PROPS FOR TODAY
EURO-LAYERED PILE IT ON, BUT GENTLY! START WITH A SOFT WHITE POLO, ADD A FINE COTTON SHIRT, SLIMCUT BLAZER, CARGO PANTS AND SUEDE WINGTIPS. CASUALLY DRAPE A CASHMERE SWEATER FOR GOOD MEASURE. MAGNIFICO!
SARTORIAL THE CLASSIC NAVY BLAZER PAIRED WITH BOLD SHIRT AND TIE, ELEGANT TROUSERS AND BROWN SUEDE SHOES TAKES YOU ANYWHERE AND EVERYWHERE, SCORING POINTS ALONG THE WAY
MODERN YOU CAN TRY THIS AT HOME! MIX A GREAT BLAZER WITH PREMIUM DENIM (DARK IS BEST), A PATTERNED SHIRT AND FABULOUS SHOES. FLAUNT YOUR PERSONAL STYLE AND MAKE THE BLAZER LOOK YOUR OWN
sports style CHIP GANASSI COMBINES SPEED, STYLE AND BUSINESS SAVVY. BY DAVID A. ROSE
ou might say 2010 was an extraordinary year for Chip Ganassi. On February 14th one of his stock cars, driven by Jamie McMurray, won NASCAR’s premier event, the Daytona 500. On May 30th one of his Indy Cars won the Memorial Day classic, the Indianapolis 500. Two months later McMurray won NASCAR’s high profile race at Indianapolis, the Brickyard 400, making Ganassi the first team owner ever to win the Triple Crown of American motorsports. Ganassi himself raced in the Indianapolis 500 five times beginning in 1981, but in 1984 he suffered a major crash at the Michigan International Speedway that ended his career as a driver. He formed Chip Ganassi Racing in 1990 with primary sponsorship from Target stores. As president and majority owner, Ganassi now manages teams in both the Indy Car Series and the GrandAm Rolex Sports Car Series. He’s also partnered with Dale Earnhardt, Inc. to form Earnhardt
Above: Dario Franchitti clinches the Indy Car Championship for the second year in a row Left: Scott Dixon, Ganassi and Franchitti show off the Borg Warner and Harley J. Earl Trophies
IMAGES COURTESY OF TARGET CHIP GANASSI RACING
WE ARE THE CHAMPIONS
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Ganassi Racing in NASCAR. Here, Forum gets the scoop on what drives this motorsports superstar.
No, we currently have six drivers in five cars, and although I may have the urge sometimes to give advice on how to drive, I don’t. Because I was once a driver I have a connection to what they’re going through, so I think I bring something to the table beyond just being an owner and manager.
When Lotus developed the ground effects car in the late 1970s, James Hunt retired from racing, saying he didn’t want to be an irrelevant part (less than 50 percent) of the driver/car equation. What percentage of the equation are drivers today?
IMAGE COURTESY OF CHIP GANASSI RACING WITH FELIX SABATES
Ganassi and Scott Pruett celebrate after winning the Grand Prix of Miami at HomesteadMiami Speedway
You’ve gone from being a racecar driver to a driving force in motor racing. Which role is more fulfilling? While I was growing up in Pittsburgh, I always had visions of sitting atop one of these buildings and running a company. When I started in motor racing I never thought it would be my career; I figured it would be a weekend activity, nothing more. Although there was no period in my life more exciting than the time I was a racecar driver, it was then that I realized I loved motorsports as a business. So I’d have to say what I’m doing now is most fulfilling.
As a former driver, do you ever have the urge to climb into the racecar yourself?
I have a lot of respect for James Hunt and he was a good driver, but as racing cars evolve technically, it may make some drivers obsolete. At the same time, it will bring other drivers along. These days, you need to have it all: 100 percent car, 100 percent driver, 100 percent crew.
You’ve been at this sport for 30 years; what has been your most memorable event? Qualifying for my first Indianapolis 500 in 1982, just 10 days after I graduated from college. I had just turned 23 and I was the fastest rookie at Indianapolis that year. Since then we’ve had a lot of great wins in great cars with great drivers, but that day in 1982 was when it all began.
The Target Chip Ganassi relationship seems to go beyond dollars and cents. How does a business relationship acheive this kind of synergy? I feel fortunate to have been a part
of Target when their company was growing. When I first met them they had 400 stores; today there are 1700. Target embraces change and they’re often at the leading edge. Our values, our work ethics and our views of things are very much aligned, and when you are that aligned, you end up with a good relationship. It’s that simple.
When Jamie McMurray won the Brickyard 400, you became the first team owner to win America’s triple crown. How did that feel? I’m more pleased that all six of my drivers have won at least one race this year. That to me is more exciting than me winning the triple crown.
Since Forum is a fashion and lifestyle magazine, tell us about your fashion sense. I’m in the sports business and so my personal style is centered on casual sportswear. I enjoy wearing my Zegna suits, but obviously I would look a bit out of place at the race track dressed that way.
What was your last clothing purchase and what might you buy next? My last purchase was that Zegna navy blazer you see hanging on the wall over there. My next purchase will be a Loro Piana scarf.
What do you do to relax? A few years ago I moved out to Fox Chapel, Pennsylvania; I love being around my house, swimming in my pool in the summer and skiing in the winter. I enjoy feeding the fish in my fish pond and also doing yard work. It’s about as far from racecar driving as it gets.
ROB ERTG R A H A M .US ROBERT GRAHAM FLAGSHIP STORE 1326 ABBOT KINNEY BLVD., VENICE, CALIFORNIA 90291
FASHION, GLAMOUR AND STYLE, THEN AND NOW. BY CALLY JAMIS VENNARE
More than two decades after his untimely death, Andy Warhol’s bold imprint on fashion remains strong and vibrant. Then and now, The Warhol Look reflects the artist’s distinct blend of fashion, glamour and style. And no matter how it’s framed—runway show, museum exhibition, window display, or magazine illustration— Warhol’s work has a uniquely timeless appeal. In the second half of the 20th century, The Warhol Look reigned supreme. The artist’s influence crossed genres, genders and generations as his work grew more expansive and popular. It was controversial. It was iconic, yet contemporary. And it constantly changed to reflect the times...just as Warhol had hoped. His diversity of styles (those he created through his art as well as embodied in appearance and demeanor) still offer limitless inspiration for today’s artisans. Pop Art has been “embraced and disseminated by the fashion industry,” says art historian Marco Livingstone. Warhol’s bold color palette,
DIGITAL IMAGE © THE MUSEUM OF MODERN ART/LICENSED BY SCALA / ART RESOURCE, NY
strongly influenced by his vast Fiestaware collection, is considered at the same time nostalgic and nouveau. And his glamorous subjects—Marilyn Monroe, Elizabeth Taylor and Edie Sedgwick to name but a few—still
fascinate and inspire designs on and off the runway. According to Alice Mackrell’s book Art and Fashion, designer Yves Saint Laurent considered his great friend Warhol to be “inspiring in everything he did.” For
Warhol Self Portrait, nine canvases 1966
other top photographers and the woman who introduced Warhol to Mick Jagger), leggy Donyale Luna (the first African-American supermodel), icy Nico (a former model turned musician with ties to Bob Dylan, Brian Jones, and ultimately, The Velvet Underground), and Ivy Nicholson (a top cover girl of the early 1960s).
IMAGE © THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART / ART RESOURCE, NY
Betsey Johnson and other accomplished designers, the Warhol Look was manifested in dresses made from paper, plastic and metal. Other prominent examples include Jean-Charles de Castelbajac’s vibrant dresses printed with Warhol motifs, Gianni Versace’s “Marilyn Monroe” dress and Philip Treacy’s limited edition collection of hats and bags featuring iconic Warhol images. And at spring 2011 New York Fashion Week, Diane von Furstenberg channeled her very own Andy Warhol portrait through blaring pink lips on the otherwise fresh faces of her runway models. “At some point in the creative process we pulled the picture,” noted von Furstenberg on stylelist.com. “I was young in the ’70s and all these clothes remind me of my youth.” Warhol’s influence reached further than fashion, to commercial and fine art, filmmaking, and publishing. In fact, his Interview magazine is considered by many to be the pinnacle of the artist’s obsession with style. “Interview was the first pop culture magazine,” says Paige Powell, its former associate publisher. “It set trends rather than followed them. It was in the moment, not dated.” Not surprisingly, Warhol’s passion for celebrity led to his creation of Interview. “He wanted to be part of the city in a bigger way…and felt if he had a film magazine, they would let him into the premieres. And they did!” Moreover, The Warhol Look (the catalog supporting the 1997 to 1999 exhibition of the same name) also established that “today’s merging of art and fashion is in large measure the legacy of Andy
GLAMOUR & FILM In 1965 Warhol made more than 10 films (and numerous public appearances) with Edie Sedgwick, the trendsetting tragic beauty who is still regarded as a fashion icon. The films include Beauty #2, Poor Little Rich Girl, Face, Lupe and Kitchen, among others.
Warhol” and that “fashion is the connective tissue joining what previously appeared as disparate elements” in his work. The Andy Warhol Museum, which organized the exhibition The Warhol Look, is one of the most comprehensive single-artist museums in the world. At the end of their 15th anniversary celebration, the museum’s former director, Tom Sokolowski, and archival staff provided the following examples to give us a deeper appreciation of Warhol’s expansive footprint.
DESIGNERS & TELEVISION After years of socializing with fashion designers such as Halston (whose cocktail dress of light, slinky fabric was printed with Warhol’s bold, bright 1965 Flowers image), in 1979 Warhol produced a multipart television series titled Fashion, which focused on the work of the top designers of the day. In later TV series in the mid1980s, Andy Warhol’s TV and Andy Warhol’s Fifteen Minutes, Warhol continued to present the work of (at the time) current designers such as Stephen Sprouse, who based an entire season’s line on Warhol’s Camouflage paintings. To learn more, visit The Warhol in downtown Pittsburgh, or go to www.warhol.org.
TODAY’S MERGING OF ART AND FASHION IS IN LARGE MEASURE THE LEGACY OF ANDY WARHOL.
MODELS & MUSIC In the mid-1960s, Warhol featured many fashion models in his films. This was especially evident in his series of Screen Test portrait films that included blonde “Baby Jane” Holzer (a sought-after fashion model among David Bailey and
The Souper Dress, paper 1966-67
Design for a LivingWorld Making Sustainability Glamorous A sinuous, salmon-skin studded dress echoes the glimmering motion of scales in a stream. A ladylike handbag is paved with rustic, hand-carved rosewood tiles. A table crafted of gently undulating strips of red maple invites a caress ...
These art objects delight the senses, but each is also a triumph of conservation, both for nature and for the people who depend upon it. Created by such renowned designers as Maya Lin, Isaac Mizrahi and Paulina Reyes, each of the objects commissioned for the Design for a Living World exhibit presently touring the country celebrates a place where The Nature Conservancy is working alongside local people to save what’s wild. “Our goal was to connect audiences to the natural world by exploring the story of place through innovative design,” said Mark Tercek, president and chief executive of The Nature Conservancy. “Design for a Living World challenges us to think about the products we use - where they come from, how they are made and what the impacts are on our planet and on local communities,” he said. Maya Lin, famed architect of the Vietnam Veterans Memorial in Washington DC, built her “terra table” of red maple from The Nature Conservancy’s St John Forest in Northern Maine. The forest, which provides habitat for the threatened Canada lynx and other wildlife, is managed and harvested according to the sustainability principles of the Forest Stewardship Council. “You are making a huge difference in terms of habitat preservation and biodiversity protection if you buy wood that has been sustainably harvested and certified,” said Lin, who designed her piece to echo the variable natural beauty of the wood’s hidden layers, a theme that she says runs through much of her work. “We have to be very sensitive, being very aware of the materials we’re using, because they can have huge ramifications in our world,” she said. (continued)
Paulina Reyes, a designer for kate spade new york, turned to the indigenous Guarayo people of Bolivia for inspiration, creating handbags with handles and tiles carved from FSC-certified wood. And thousands of miles away, Israeli designer Ezri Tarazi harvested certified bamboo in China’s southern Yunan Province and created a suite of furniture that retains the shape of the natural bamboo. “A lot of the value of a product lies in knowing where it comes from, how it grows and in what amounts. This information tends to get lost when things are made all around the world and not in your own back yard,” said designer Christien Meindertsma. Here in Pennsylvania, The Nature Conservancy is using similar strategies to protect Penn’s Woods and the wildlife habitat and fresh water that our forests help sustain. A new program called Working Woodlands is helping landowners large and small pursue the same benefits of forest certification that Chinese bamboo farmers and Bolivian craftsmen are experienceing abroad. Working at the local and global scale, The Nature Conservancy - the world’s largest environmental nonprofit - is able to apply the lessons that our scientists have learned here at home throughout the developing world. The Pennsylvania Chapter of The Nature Conservancy has spent decades working to protect natural areas statewide, both by buying important habitats, and more recently, with creative strategies such as conservation easements and forest certification programs, like Working Woodlands which ensure that working lands remain healthy. From high fashion and cutting-edge design to the daily work that our scientists do in Pennsylvania’s rivers, mountains and forests; we’re protecting nature for it own sake, but also for the people across the globe who depend upon nature for their livelihood and their cultural identity. For more information about The Nature Conservancy and its mission of protecting nature and preserving life, in Pennsylvania and around the world, contact Amanda Nickeson Cherry in Pittsburgh at firstname.lastname@example.org or (412) 770-5485.
Design for a Living World Ten leading designers were commissioned by The Nature Conservancy to develop new uses for sustainably grown and harvested materials in order to tell a unique story about the life-cycle of materials and the power of conservation and design. The prototypes, drawings and finished products created by the designers have been exhibited in Washington DC, and are scheduled to visit Chicago and Phoenix later this year. The featured designers and places include:Yves include: Behar/Costa Rica; Stephen Burks/Australia; Hella Jongerius/Mexico; Maya Lin/Maine; Christien Meindertsma/Idaho; Isaac Mizrahi/Alaska; Abbott Miller/Bolivia; Ted Muehling/Micronesia; Kate Spade/Bolivia; and Ezri Tarazi/China. Photos by: Ami Vitale, Mackenzie Stroh, Udi Dagan, George C. Gress and Dan Whipps. Geo
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Women are compulsive shoppers. It’s more than a passion; it’s an addiction. Last week, as we were dressing to go out, I watched helplessly as my wife tried on a dozen pairs of black pants, ripping each off her body as she became increasingly frantic. “Nothing works!” she cried in frustration, as she asked me which looked best. Knowing this was a trick question, I told her only that they all looked fine. She eyed me skeptically like I was denying a felony charge for which she had hard evidence. “The skinny pants make me look fat; I don’t have the right boots for the boot cut pair; the flannel trousers are too heavy for this weather! How can you possibly say they look fine?” Now I’m starting to understand: she not only discerns difference among them, but she actually believes these nuances matter! Perhaps this explains why she owns dozens of black jackets and white blouses and infinite pairs of jeans, not to mention the shoes and handbags.... The following Saturday evening, I put on a pair of gray trousers. They have lots of pleats, and suddenly, I’m not feeling so many pleats. I pull out another pair, which seem fine until I put them on and notice that the cuffs are dragging on the floor. (Either the pants grew or I shrunk….) Since there are no more gray pants in my closet, I take out some black ones, only to notice that the fabric has become inexplicably shiny. And when I throw on the navy blazer, it’s obvious (even to me) that it would look much better with gray pants. At that moment, my wife walks in from shopping, exuberant and exhausted. “I’ve found the perfect black pants,” she exclaims with a sense of joy I’d not heard from her since I proposed 20 years ago. And for the first time in all those years, I understand her excitement. “Next time,” I suggest with trepidation, “maybe I’ll come with you....”
SOMETIMES, STYLISTIC NUANCES DO MATTER.
’ve figured out the main difference between men and women. It’s not that men can’t watch TV without tapping the remote, not that women prefer foreplay to actual sex, and not that men can’t communicate (though these things may be true). After getting gradually crowded out of every closet (and every drawer in every dresser), the difference is clear:
WOMEN HAVE IT, MEN COULD USE IT… BY MIKE SAMUELS
TRUNK ARCHIVE / DANIEL JACKSON
The Shopping Gene
LARRIMOR’S FORUM SPRING 2011
Published on Mar 3, 2011
Published on Mar 3, 2011
Larrimor's specializes in quality men's and women's clothing, jewelry and accessories for the discriminating customer. For more than 70 year...