Monsoon 2024
VOGUE CHIREC
EDITORS EDITION
"A little bad taste is like a nice splash of paprika. We all need a splash of bad taste it's hearty, it's healthy, it's physical. I think we could use more of it. No taste is what I'm against "
- Diana Vreeland
PAGE 3 - How did Calvin Klein cut through the noise to create a cultural moment?
PAGE 7 - Virginie Viard Bids Adieu to Chanel
N WHAT'S I SIDE
HOW DID CALVIN KLEIN CUT
THROUGH THE NOISE TO CREATE A CULTURAL MOMENT?
THE CAMPAIGN DROPPED AND THE INTERNET STOPPED
On the 4th of January, Calvin Klein rolled out its Spring 2024 men ' s underwear ad featuring artist Jeremy Allen White Shortly after that, the reaction videos to the advertisement blew up on social media and gained a tremendous amount of media attention The frenzy was not just for a day; underwear sales at Calvin Klein went up by 30 percent that one week. Although the company was unprepared for this overwhelming response, Jonathan Bottomley, Chief Marketing Officer at CK, said that it had set up a strategic foundation to have such an effect "In a culture that's very flat, how do you create those spikes?" Calvin Klein's "entertainment mentality" has the key to the solution
In the ad, Jeremy Allen White, the star of the breakout series "The Bear" on Hulu, worked out on a Manhattan rooftop dressed as an ancient Greek god reimagined in today's times. Set to an old-school motivational song "You Don't Own Me" by Lesley Gore, the ad juxtaposed old-school machismo against a evocative backdrop of high-minded artistic expression This strategy exploits something referred to as "beefcake gravitas," where the clothing raises the human form into the level of art, reminiscent of the valorous nudity of classical antiquity. Bruce Weber's photographs of Brazilian pole-vaulter Tom Hintnaus, shot in 1982, set new standards for the history of Calvin Klein advertising. However, this video broke that standard; setting a new one altogether, for future advertising with their depiction of powerful muscular, almost godly bodies that do without frivolous characteristics
Calvin Klein's ad balances high art and primitive needs in a way that keeps their images interesting because of this tension The brand has always been pushing the envelope be it Mark Wahlberg's gritty charisma or Brooke Shields' scandalous youth. This is a legacy carried out by the Jeremy Allen White campaign The Jeremy Allen White campaign was a success in its own right; this was indicative of how far viral marketing was from reaching great heights Compared to previous campaigns, White's photography was very powerful in capturing the new cultural infusion, therefore establishing high media value and resonance
According to Launchmetrics, in its first 48 hours, the campaign generated $10.4 million in media impact value in direct MIV for Calvin Klein.
This ad outperformed every organic ad with Carlos Alcaraz and Michael B. Jordan. Calvin Klein's strategic approach to marketing is one that weds brand and performance metrics to ensure customer engagement at every turn
This is, according to the CEO, Stefan Larsson, the most consumer-engaged this brand has seen, thanks to campaigns with globally relevant talent. This approach has driven Calvin Klein toward the top in fashion marketing
While over twenty years have elapsed since they reached the pinnacle, the allure and furtherance of Calvin Klein's brand and cultural relevance are still alive today because the brand still inspires desire and dedication
WHAT IS THE FUTURE OF GUCCI?
SABATO DE SARNO'S VISION FOR THE BRAND
Right out of the gate, Gucci's new creative director,
Sabato De Sarno, has put a clear stamp on the brand with its Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection in Milan. From a previous stint at Valentino, De Sarno brings a sense of innovation while looking backward towards heritage for this Italian house, eyeing a turnaround in its identity within the competitive luxury market.
The collection represented an actual departure from De Sarno's more muted tone for his January debut This season, Gucci embraced a colorful palette of colors, prints, and textures Absinthe leather coats opened the show, followed by mesh tops in carnation and plum, which were matched with tangerine bags and lilac sneakers. Classic tailoring and camp shirts adorned with high-contrast tessellations of dolphins, surfboards, and banana leaves provided a lightweight, playful, yet sophisticated counterpoint
That's a bold turn thats living it up, appealing to a clientele who has been having fun with luxury products from Gucci Even in the midst of this positive reception, however, stakeholders kept their cool and locked eyes on something bigger than just creating desirable objects. Coming on board in January 2023 positioned De Sarno within one strategic move by Kering, Gucci's parent company: the repositioning of the luxury brand as classically upscale
Although Gucci holds a special place in the annals of Kering history, over the past few years it has been gradually losing its grip on market leadership to rivals such as Louis Vuitton and Dior.
To De Sarno, it's about striking a balance between commerciality and distinctiveness, creating something ' you can be part of but that stays unique', appealing to many different people while managing to remain true to itself.
However, The financial impact of De Sarno's designs is yet to fully come out, with analysts projecting gradual improvement once his collections hit the global markets Opinions are already divided on whether De Sarno is taking Gucci too far afield from maximalism its more extravagant offerings from prior designers including Tom Ford and Alessandro Michele. Some, like Bernstein's Luca Solca, believe the brand should return to its more over-the-top roots; others wonder if De Sarno's more subdued course will resonate in vital markets, especially Asia.
Despite all this, De Sarno is unbending about his vision for Gucci: "I am doing what I like, and if what I like is commercial, then that's fine”
VIRGINIE VIARD BIDS ADIEU TO CHANEL
A TRANSITION IN FASHION’S UPPER ECHELON
Late Wednesday, the fashion world was rocked by the news of Virginie Viard's departure from Chanel, marking the end of her five-year tenure as the creative director. Viard, who started her journey at Chanel as an intern in 1987, evolved into Lagerfeld's trusted deputy over the years, embodying the brand's ethos and creative vision; she stepped into the role following Karl Lagerfeld's passing in 2019. Her departure leaves a significant void at Chanel, one of the world's foremost luxury brands known not just for its haute couture and ready-to-wear collections, but for its enduring legacy and unparalleled brand prestige
During her tenure, Viard injected a contemporary, more approachable aesthetic into the brand's offerings. Her emphasis on wearable silhouettes, particularly the iconic tweed jackets, resonated strongly with consumers, driving a substantial increase in sales
Chanel, under Viard's eadership, reported impressive financial growth, with revenues soaring to nearly $20 billion in 2023, marking a 16% increase from the previous year
Furthermore, under her stewardship, Chanel's ready-to-wear sales reportedly multiplied by 2.5, a testament to her ability to connect with modern luxury consumers. Despite Viard's departure, Chanel remains in a robust position. However, this wont be for long.
Speculation now turns to who will fill Viard's shoes The industry buzzes with names like Hedi Slimane and Pierpaolo Piccioli, both highly respected designers with proven track records in the luxury sector. The choice of Viard's replacement will be crucial, not only for maintaining Chanel's financial momentum but also for revitalizing its cultural and fashion relevance
As Chanel prepares to unveil its latest collections, including Viard's final showing at Paris Haute Couture Week, the fashion world anticipates the dawn of a new chapter for this venerable house. The search for Viard's successor continues, where each appointment carries the weight of tradition and the promise of innovation
As Chanel navigates this transition, the industry watches with anticipation, eager to witness the next phase of one of fashion's most enduring legacies.
Executive
Team: Ayra Chugani, Saanvi Mantha, Shreeka Prabhuram, Nittala Sidharth, Ananya Agarwal, Maria Emmanuel, Harihara Nalamolu, Shrithan Adipuram, Ria Tangri