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School Blind | 22 Word Up! | 24 Harleys in Korea | 26


Events: The Big Five | 12 The Haps: Word on the Street | 14 News: In the News | 16 Material World | 18 Summer Beach Guide | 20 Tharp On: America | 60


The Damage Done | 34


Tokyo Impressions | 36 Unsusa: So Close & Yet So Far | 38


Climbing the Unconquered | 40 Korea’s Swedish Smile | 41


The Dish: Salmon Saveur | 42 Breaking the Coffee Chain | 43 Wine: Five from France | 44


Interview: Brian Tichy | 46 Outlier | 47

DIRECTORY/GUIDES Hotel News & Directory | 50 Directory | 51-59 Busan Metro Map | 58 Area Maps | 52-59

Harley riders on the move in Busan. Photography on this page by Alexandra Don 6

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Though they’ve long been looked down upon as the poor man’s ride, motorbikes, are growing increasingly popular on the peninsula.

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his is 25th Haps editor’s letter I’ve written since the magazine was launched four years ago this month. A lot has changed since issue one; not just the magazine, but the city of Busan: home for many of us, a passing fancy for some and an expanse of varied meaning to others. They say you never forget your first, and I will long remember the first issue of Haps. With the help of Chris Tharp, who wrote a piece on “Seoul vs. Busan”, and Jen Sotham, who reviewed a dwaejigukbap joint, Haps was born. Since then, hundreds have contributed to get us where we are now. And where we are now is another issue. Johnny Ioannidis deftly interviews musician Brian Tichy, a guy you’ve likely heard but never heard of; Michael Fraiman (who, sadly, will be leaving us soon) reports back from Tokyo with his subtle wit and wonder of the world there; James Turnbull looks at how education is literally blinding schoolchildren; Tharp reminisces about his homeland and is, as always, very funny. Jeff Liebsch, my editorial partner since issue two, takes a look at the seedy side of sports and, interspersed with Alexandra Don’s great photos and Kelvin’s cool layout, I try to talk like I know something about Harley motorbikes beyond the leather jacket hanging in my closet. Truth be told, I’m especially partial to Jen’s interview (accompanied by Mike Dixon’s photos) with the inimitable “K”—a true gem of Busan lore. Of course, there’s more and, as usual, never enough room to thank those who made it happen. Noticeably absent is any other mention beyond this page of Haps marking its fourth year. For us, it’s just another issue in the ever-expanding story of Korea and our wonderful little corner of life here. Thanks to you all.

ON THE COVER Harley Davidson is one of those products that rides as much on its myth as it does on its two wheels. Haps looks at the emerging image of Harley in Korea. Photography by Alexandra Don

The cherry blossom-filled streets of Tokyo. Photography on this page by Michael Fraiman. 8

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A Tale of Tokyo - Tokyo in two days? You’ve gotta be kidding, right? Michael Fraiman reports back on one of the most fascinating cities on the planet.

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Anthony claims Steve Perry, lead singer of the band Journey, is the second most famous person ever to come out of Hanford, California. Who’s the first? This guy. “Don’t Stop Believin’.”


Alexandra, a native of Nevelsk, Russia, first started shooting in 2010 and attributes her inspiration for photography to a workshop she attended on Russian photographers. She also studies Korean photography and culture at Busan University of Foreign Studies.


Johnny Ioannidis hails from Kingston, Ontario. After a knee injury torpedoed his prospects with AEK Athens FC in 2000, he arrived in Busan armed with nothing but his air guitar and a passion for Engrish.


Since coming to Korea in 2000, James has become widely known for his highly respected blog The Grand Narrative. He lives in Busan with his wife and two daughters, Alice and Elizabeth.


Kelvin is an American graphic designer who grew up on a dirt road in the state of Maine. He has lived in Busan with his wife and dog for two and a half years, and he has never been abducted by a UFO.


Chris hails from Washington State and has lived in Busan for over six years. When not when banging on a guitar or screaming into a microphone, he likes to write. If you buy him a drink he’ll tell you all about the times he met Kurt Cobain, but you probably already know the story.


Jen hails from New York and has been eating her way through Busan since 2006. The first Korean phrase she learned was chal-mo-gu-soob-ni-da.

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ART DIRECTOR Russell McConnell WEBMASTER Danny Himes

CULTURE EDITOR Jen Sotham FASHION EDITOR Christy Swain MUSIC EDITOR Eugene Smith DESIGNERS: Kelvin Brassbridge II

WRITERS: Anthony Velasquez Jen Sotham Chris Tharp James Turnbull Eugene Smith Harold Swindall Michael Fraiman Johnny Ioannidis Bryan Hylenski Jake Preston Jeff Liebsch Bobby McGill Tory Mock

PHOTOGRAPHERS: Ben Weller Jae-young Park Indy Randhawa Stinkie Pinkie Stephanie Santana Jim Batcho Mike Dixon Charles Jishcke Torry Pendergrass Alexandra Don Michael Fraiman Jason M.S. Simmst

TRANSLATION: Kim So-yeon Junnie Ahn INTERN Shin Kyung-bin


Follow us @busanhaps Busan Haps Magazine BUSAN HAPS Summer 2013 Issue 25




FIRST PUBLICATION DATE: Sept, 2, 2009 OFFICE ADDRESS: 1491-8 Miruville #501 Jung Dong, Haeundae-gu Busan, Republic of Korea 612-822

DISCLAIMER: The opinions in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher. Questions or comments: ©2013 Busan Haps Magazine

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Events & Culture

BUSAN COMIC WORLD JULY 13-14 While mostly fun for all the cool cosplay getups and the enthusiasm attendees show in posing for any photographer that passes by, Comic World also aims to create a venue for communication between pro illustrators, while at the same time allowing amateurs to introduce their work. Held bi-monthly in Busan and monthly in Seoul since 1999, various activities such as illustration, meet-and-greets with artists, singing competitions and always-entertaining cosplay outfits are all part of the fun at the highly popular event.

BUSAN INTERNATIONAL BUSAN INTERNATIONAL ROCK FESTIVAL KIDS’ FILM FESTIVAL AUGUST 2-4 A major staple for any aficionado of local indie rock music, the 14th Busan International Rock Festival takes place annually at Samnak Riverside Sports Park. Finnish power metal band Stratovarius is set to headline, along with Soil & “Pimp” Sessions from Japan, Kim Bada, PIA and other major bands from around the country for three days of food and music.

JULY 24-28 Now in its eighth year, BiKi is a collection of creative domestic and foreign short and feature films made by children. But the films themselves are just a sampling of the five-day event, which also includes special exhibitions and cultural performances, concerts, seminars and a playground around the Busan Cinema Center.




One of Busan’s best behind the lens, photographer Mike Dixon is showcasing his talents with the “Club People Photo Exhibit”, featuring the best in nightlife around the city at the 18-1 Gallery in Jungang-dong. You can check out the amazing display from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. weekdays, and from noon to 6 p.m. weekends. (Closed the first and third Sunday of each month.)

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JULY 19-28 Arguably the largest and most popular international festival in the country, the 16th Boryeong Mud Festival pays homage to the mixture of water and soil. Daecheon Beach in Chungcheongnam Province becomes a brief home to mud wrestling, sliding and swimming in a mega mud-tub. In the 10 days, one can also spot night concerts, fireworks, a mud marathon, painting and mud massages.



HANGOVER (SEOMYEON) Based off inspiration from the Midlands, the Hangover brings an understated elegance and European ambiance to city central. Located in Seomyeon, this British-style pub boasts a western menu to go along with their extensive drink list, which includes IPA beers and delectable well-drinks and cocktails. This attractive pub is just the sort of place that customers do return to again and again as it cleverly manages to appeal to both drinkers and diners. GALMEGI BREWING COMPANY (GWANGALLI) After opening to rave reviews at the beginning of June, the GBC is this summer’s newest addition to the Gwangalli Beach scene. It marks the first appearance of a craft brewing company not only at the shores of Suyeong, but to the city itself. Decked out in a purplish hue, this open-air pub brings four types of delicious pizza and six craft beers with a price range that fits most budgets. A great spot for those looking to get out of the hot summer sun, or enjoy the sunset with friends from their spectacular view of the beach.

EVA’S TICKET (KYUNGSUNG) The most recent addition to the Kyungsung landscape, the humungous bar opened after a collaboration between two of the oldest standing western bars in Kyungsung, HQ and Eva’s. The menu has been slightly revamped, but the great food that came out of the HQ kitchen remains as does the party atmosphere from both bars on the weekends, though slightly on steroids. With eight TV screens, a pool table, beer pong, darts, foosball and enough real estate in the bar to fit a few hundred of your best friends, you’ll be hard-pressed to find a bigger option in the area. 2013 summer_ 13

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WORD ON THE STREET 18TH BUSAN INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL POSTER UNVEILED The official poster of 18th Busan International Film Festival has been released, with the poster based on the original work of Shin Sung Hy, created by the artist’s signature technique called “nouage”. Shin is one of the most internationally recognized contemporary Korean artists and has been working out of Europe for most of his career. He mastered the technique of “nouage”—that is, painting color dots and lines on the canvas, tearing what is painted and tying the remnants back onto the surface— which he began to experiment with in 1996. A three-dimensional space created by the interweaving of dots, lines and gaps resonates with the idea of film as a complex media that incorporates diverse genres and art forms, and the poster is considered the “brightest” of all its preceding posters. This year’s film festival will take place from October 3 - 12.

BUSAN’S FOUNTAIN OF DREAMS At a width of 180 meters (roughly one and a half NFL football fields), Dadaepo’s fountain is billed as the largest fountain in the world. Located at the estuary of the Nakdong River in the southwest corner of the city, the 2,519-square-meter spectacle shoots water up to 55 meters high (imagine 11 giraffes standing on each other’s heads). The fountain features a whopping 1,046 nozzles, 27 smaller fountains and 1,148 light emitting diodes. The free shows are held five or six times daily depending on the day; however, there are no shows on Monday.

HAEUNDAE 9TH NATIONALLY IN HIGH-PRICED HOUSING In the battle of expensive Korean homes, Haeundae has moved up six spots since 2009 to become the ninth-priciest district in the country, according to a survey of homes priced at 900 million won or more by the Budongsan-Serve Corporation. The recent rankings surge is credited to a new building boom in Marine City, as apartments in the vicinity offer spectacular ocean views, world-class amenities and great investment opportunities. There are currently 1,839 properties in the area valued at more than 900 million won, with the iconic Haeundae I’Park ranking third in the nation in prices amongst apartments, with a 3,077-square-foot apartment coming in at the equivalent of a little over four million dollars. Gangnam, Seocho-gu and Songpa-gu, all in Seoul, ranked the top three for the third year in a row. 14 HAPS_summer 2013

Community & Living

BUSAN’S BEACHES OPEN FOR BUSINESS The city officially opened Busan’s four main beaches—Haeundae, Gwangalli, Songdo and Songjeong—for another year of fun, water sports and, of course, the ubiquitous umbrellas. The sands officially opened June 1 and will remain open through September 10. The city’s three smaller beaches— Dadaepo, Ilgwang, and Imnang—will open July 1 until the end of August. This year also marks the 100th anniversary of Songdo Beach, where festivities are planned throughout the summer to celebrate.

KOREAN, ASIANA AIR FAIL TO MAKE LOCAL GRADE The nation’s two largest air carriers fared poorly in a passenger service survey for international routes, as conducted by the state-run Korea Transport Institute. Both Asiana and Korean Air pride themselves on their exemplary in-flight service but, according to the results, they only managed to muster a “C” grade in satisfaction. The survey keyed in on four factors: safety, punctuality, customer satisfaction and the number of claims. Air Busan topped the results among large and low-carrier airlines, receiving an “A” for both domestic and international travel. Ironically, Korean Air won the 2012 World’s Excellence In Service Award, while Asiana won the World’s Best Airline Cabin Staff Award in 2011 by the Skytrax World Airline Awards. 2013 summer_ 15

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The outspokenly right-wing mayor of Osaka, the second-largest metropolis in Japan and ninth-largest in the world, drew criticism for justifying Japan’s sexual enslavement during World War II. As quoted by the Wall Street Journal: “Anyone can understand that the system of comfort women was necessary to provide respite for a group of high-strung, rough and tumble crowd of men braving their lives under a storm of bullets,” Osaka Mayor Toru Hashimotu said. “Back then it was a necessary system to maintain military discipline.” Naturally, South Koreans were furious. Even Japan’s right-wing

NORTH KOREA FIRES BLANKS North Korea fired a consecutive series of short-range missiles into the East Sea in late May. Though undeniably explosives tests, literally no countries paid any attention to the situation whatsoever. South Korea’s Blue House suggested the North heed US President Barack Obama’s advice and just stop already; Japan’s government, which is normally quick to admonish the North, shrugged it off. The UN simply noted that what North Korea is doing is already illegal and they should probably stop, but, like, whatever, since now they’re pretty much just doing whatever they want. The international eye-rolling is a result of North Korea’s ineffective global scare tactics circa March, when they warned of a nuclear World War III, threatened Western expats in South Korea to flee and raised their long-range missiles into a striking position, only to lower them back down a few weeks later once the world stopped caring. 16 HAPS_summer 2013

government publicly distanced themselves from Hashimotu that week. But he didn’t stop there. The mouthy mayor later freely admitted telling members of the US air force at Futenma that “there that there are places in Japan where it is legal to satisfy sexual urges, and that I hoped the soldiers would make use of them,” according to the Hankyoreh. Whether a foolish misogynist or martyred pragmatist, Japan’s Minister of Education summed it up well: “I think he needs to show an awareness of what his position is.”

Korea & World News

Korea & World News

MAKGEOLLI SALES TAKE A DIVE Korean rice wine, a.k.a. makgeolli, has suffered a drastic hit in exports in the past two years: the liquor that made US$52.7 million overseas in 2011 earned only $36.9 million in 2012, and a paltry $7.4 million so far in 2013. For the visual learners out there, that’s a straight arrow pointing down. Korea’s Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs blames Japan for the decrease, specifically noting the two countries’ heightened international tensions lately (re: Dokdo, comfort women and all the other divisive reasons), all of which have drowned out the hallyu craze that swept Japan in 2010. According to the Ministry, makgeolli exports soared 171 percent in 2010 and have, ever since, been struggling to keep up with themselves. But no one can force Japan to explain why domestic makgeolli sales are also falling. Statistics Korea has noted that production of the liquor has dropped roughly four percent in the last year, a result of Koreans’ increasing preferences for imported beers and Japanese sake. For that blame game, makgeolli makers point to the rising costs of rice.

YOU WANNA KISS THE GIRL A Korean man in his 70s was fined 7 million won in late April for kissing two elementary schoolgirls on their cheeks. The girls were reportedly 9 and 11 years old, and the senior citizen allegedly said “I love you” to them after the smooch. All of this sounds almost innocently adorable until the creepy part about it being not consensual and the girls being, to quote the Korea Times, “horrified”. “It was a pure expression of affection that grandfathers usually show their grandchildren, not sexual harassment,” the defendant is reported to have said. “I never had any intention to sexually harass them.” The old man has since been convicted of child molestation and has been placed on a nationwide list of sex offenders. 2013 summer_ 17

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Divers, snorkellers and pool pervs rejoice! No more wrapping your camera in a Ziploc bag (you idiot). No more flimsy plastic cases for your camera. And no more $5,000 professional cameras like they use on the Nature Channel. Now you can film highdefinition video right from your mask—very cool, incredibly convenient with a great POV. According to some reviews, the downside is that those with smaller faces suffer from some leakage. But, hey, start a new plastic surgery face enlargement trend and be all the rave. Starts at $299 and can be ordered from

ETÓN RUGGED RUKUS SOLAR-POWERED SPEAKERS This portable solar-powered Bluetooth speaker has a splashproof body designed for use anywhere outdoors. Playback lasts up to eight hours on a full charge and it can supply juice to your smartphone as well. A very cool feature allows you to stream music from your MP3 player or your phone via Bluetooth. According to specifications, the speakers have a dropproof height of 3.3 feet. (How they arrive at these numbers must be quite an entertaining process.) While it is “water-resistant” it is not waterproof, so try to keep it out of the pool, kiddo. Rukus is available at the Apple Store,, or direct from Etón at Prices run between $100-$150 depending on model.

KT WiBro EGG The great outdoors are a bit greater when you can surf the web anywhere you damn well please, right? While Korea is loaded with WiFi, more often than not, you’re bound to hit dead zones in the system or need a Korean ID card to log on. But with KT’s WiBro Egg, you can latch onto a WiFi connection anywhere there’s a cellphone signal. Now you can surf when looking out at the surf or download while downing beer and food on a picnic. 10,000 KRW a month for 10GB from most Olleh shops. 18 HAPS_summer 2013

Gadgets & Gear

THERAPIK BUG BITE RELIEF With the warm weather comes all sorts of blood-sucking vermin. Korea is no different, as the mosquitos descend on the peninsula like a pack of newby English teachers on a $2 mug of Cass at the local pub. Forget the creams and ointments, this is the future, dear readers. This handheld device delivers bug relief and treatment for stings and bites for everything from mosquitoes to bees, from fleas to jellyfish. FDA approved, this handy little tool uses heat to deactivate chemicals in the venom while increasing blood flow to the affected area and reducing swelling. $12.95 online at

THE HAPIFORK Trying to get that summer shape yet having a little trouble controlling the amount of food you eat or how fast you eat it? In the “Great ways to blow a hundred bucks on something ridiculous” category comes the HAPIfork. This new “smart fork” keeps track of the number of bites you eat and measures the average mealtime. If the fork determines you are approaching foodshoveling speeds, it vibrates and lights up, alerting you to slow down. Apparently if you eat slower, you will feel fuller faster and eat less. Soon you’ll be able to control your occasional ice cream binge as HAPIspoon is set to hit the market later this year. $99 online at

PHONE FAN Well, if we are going to call this edition of Material World “Cool Stuff for Summer,” we should actually have something that is literally “cool” in the offerings. So, here you go: The Phone Fan! You can pick one up online or in the cooler electronic shops around town. Just plug it in and well, you can figure it out from there. A word of advice: try to avoid your instinct to put the phone to your ear should a call come in or your next call could be to the hair salon to even out the mess you will have made with your mop. Available online at around $20

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H Guide



SONGJEONG BEACH Tucked away just outside of Busan proper, Songjeong Beach offers plenty for the family to enjoy, from shallow swimming to a much less crowded atmosphere than its neighbor Haeundae. The beach is wide and long, stretching for 1.2km, and offers plenty of play room with fine soft sand. It’s relatively busier on weekends but usually surprisingly empty on weekdays. To get there, take subway line 2 and get off at Haeundae Station (exit 7), and take bus 100, 100-1, 139 or 142. Get off at Songjeong Station and walk 600 meters.

SONG-DO BEACH Officially Korea’s first beach (as of 1913), Song-do has re-emerged as a must-stop on local tours. Song-do, which translates into Pine Island, was given its name due to the lush pine trees adorning the outskirts of the beach. Located just three kilometers from Nampo-dong, Song-do offers a romantic backdrop for couples looking for some peace and quiet, away from the hustle and bustle of the city. To get there, take bus 34 or 134 from Busan Station southward.



The 1.5km-long Imrang Beach is also located in Gijang County, and is famous for its fresh water and fishing. With the water level only four feet deep, many families with young children find the beach ideal for swimming, while the neighborhood has a distinct character of its own. Tongdo Temple and Jangan Temple are located nearby for those looking to get out of the beach scene for the afternoon. Though relatively quiet, more tourists have been frequenting the area lately due to its golden sand. To get there, take bus 37, 180 or 188 from Jangsan Station.

Located in Gijang County, Ilgwang Beach is a little out of the way, but is better for a guaranteed quiet day at the beach than any others. As the water levels are not too deep, novice swimmers and children are more prone to enjoy swimming here as opposed to other beaches in the city. There are also plenty of accommodations, restaurants and camping facilities available nearby, should you choose to spend the night. To get there, take subway line 2 to Jangsan Station. At exit 9, take bus 180, and get off at Ilgwang Beach.

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Out & About

HAEUNDAE BEACH Fascinated by its beauty, scholar Choi Chi-won of the Silla Dynasty carved the words “Hae-un-dae” on a stone wall on the island sometime in the middle of the ninth century. Today, that beauty remains, but is shared with by upwards of 700,000 visitors per day during the summer months. The 1.5km beach consists of rough white sand from the Chuncheon Stream, though it’s not visible during summer afternoons when nearly 8,000 multi-colored parasols turn the sand into a sea of blue, red, white and pink. The entire beach is lined with major hotels, so you have to get past those to reach the neighborhoods for local food. To get there, take subway line 2 to Haeundae Station. It’s about a five-minute walk.

GWANGALLI BEACH On its good days, Gwangalli Beach is one of the most picturesque locations in the city, framed by the 6.5km Diamond Bridge in the background that is especially beautiful when illuminated at night. During the summer, the beach becomes a playpen offering more activities for water enthusiasts than any other: swimming, windsurfing, kite-boarding, kayaking, boogie boarding and occasionally surfing. Though Haeundae gets all the press, Gwangan is a great place to go for a little bit of everything, with lots of restaurants and cafes lining the entire 1.4km stretch. To get there, take subway line 2 to Gwangan or Geumnyeonsan Station. It’s about a five-minute walk.

DADAEPO BEACH Located at the estuary of the Nakdonggang River and just eight kilometers from downtown, Dadaepo Beach is a great place to chill out and have a picnic, collect a few seashells and go for a swim in the shallow surf. Just up the river is one of the best places in Korea to check out migratory birds chilling in the marshes. At just under a kilometer long, it is beautiful but little-known to foreigners because of how far away it is from the city center. To get there, take bus number 2 or 98 from Busan Station or get off the subway at Sinpyeong Station and take bus 2, 11, 96 or 98. 2013 summer_ 21



School Blind

By James


Recent studies shows that sleep deprivation among students putting in long hours of study to reach the upper tiers of the highly competitive Korean university system could have grave effects on their vision. Two caveats: first, technically they’re only turning myopic (or short-sighted), which occurs when the eyeball is too long, so the focus of light entering them falls short of the back of the - Lee Beom, Seoul Metropolitan Office of Education. I appreciate that. I really do. I acknowledge my privilege of retina, requiring eyewear to correct it. But, according to Dr. waltzing into comfortable ESL teaching jobs in Korea, whatever Ian Morgan of the Australian Research Council’s Centre of Exmy university, not to mention the option—and plan—to move cellence in Vision Science, as many as nine in 10 students of my family overseas well before my children attend high school. “high myopia” regions of Asia—like Korea—have this problem For parents that lack those luxuries, however, most send their (compared to only two or three in the UK), with two in 10 havchildren to hagwons (cram schools) for extra study. There are ing a roughly 50/50 chance of indeed becoming completely many sensible reasons to do so, including much-needed child- blind by middle age. Second, the problem itself is not news at all. Data on care (Korea has notoriously long working hours) and the fact male conscripts in the Singaporean army, for instance, that public school teachers frequently leave it to their hagwon shows that in the 1970s, only one in four Singaporean chilcounterparts to teach some of the syllabus. Yet many hagwons are open extremely late, too, which de- dren finishing high school had myopia, whereas now the prives children of sleep. At one large chain I taught at, for in- figure matches Korea’s 90 percent. stance, the 13-year-old students finished as late as 10:30 p.m. It’s going to take quite a shock to change and still had to take a trip home, eat dinner and do their school Korean parents’ mindsets. homework before they could go to bed. What’s more, high school students didn’t finish until well after midnight. Hopefully, the recent news that all that No wonder that a September 2011 study in JAMA Pediatrics indoor-time is turning their children blind found that Korean teens only get an average of five hours and will provide exactly that. 42 minutes sleep on weekdays (nine hours are recommended), or that they frequently had difficulties concentrating at school. This is an extraordinary rise that has led to a great deal of reWith a 10:00 p.m.-curfew on hagwons by the Seoul City Government failing through widespread violations and parental search in order to determine the source of the problem. Previopposition in 2011, though, it’s going to take quite a shock to ously studies focused on possible genetic factors, and/or children doing an excessive amount of “near work activity,” which change Korean parents’ mindsets. Hopefully, the recent news that all that indoor-time is turning includes poring over their textbooks at hagwons. However, the former approach was always misguided, as getheir children blind will provide exactly that. netic susceptibility doesn’t suddenly emerge in a population “Where you attend university haunts you for the rest of your life.”

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in just two generations, and Singaporean children show equal rates of myopia regardless of whether they’re of Chinese, Indian or Malaysian heritage. Also, while the latter approach was more promising, among those countries sharing Korea’s education mania, isolating the exact mechanism proved elusive. But, as first reported in the media in 2009, what is news is that a study led by Dr. Morgan demolished both explanations. Instead, it’s a lack of exposure to sunlight that is proving to be the primary cause. In brief, the researchers compared myopia rates of six-year-old Chinese kids living in Sydney and Singapore, finding contrasting rates of three and 30 percent, respectively. As I wrote of the study in the Korea Times in 2009: “That there was any difference undermines a genetic explanation, but whereas most people might have expected it to be accounted for by the latter’s greater amount of near work activity, to researchers’ surprise in fact Sydney children did more, which suggested that the myopia must be triggered by some other environmental factor. Eliminating all other variables, the critical factor appeared to be that Sydney children were spending far more time outdoors. To be precise, 13-14 hours a week compared to 3 or 4.” Specifically, they believe that a chemical called dopamine is responsible—light increases its levels in the eye, which in turn prevents it from lengthening. Not completely, of course; as we get older and work more with tools, books and computers, we naturally become shorter-sighted as our eyeballs lengthen to compensate. But without sunlight, our eyes overcompensate. This is in the news again this year, as it has been confirmed by three recent studies. The first was by a University of Ulster team that compared

Caucasian children in the UK and Australia, finding the former more likely to be myopic; the second, by Taiwanese researchers at Kaoshing Chang Jung Memorial Hospital, who found that students who were forced to spend their breaks outdoors had significantly fewer problems with their eyesight than a control group who stayed indoors. Finally, researchers at Sun-Yat-sen university in China looked at 2005 data on Danish children, and found that the eyes of children least exposed to light grew 0.07 mm more than those most exposed. Caveats remain. It is true that simply studying itself puts stress on the eyes (let alone sleep-deprivation), and that rates are also increasing outside of Asia—since the 1970s, rates of myopia in the general population have increased by 65 percent in the US for instance. Dr. Morgan stresses that more research is needed. However, not only is the solution obvious, but it’s not only students in sunny Australia and Singapore that can benefit. As Dr. Morgan explained to the BBC last month: “We’re talking about the need for two to three hours a day of outdoor light—it doesn’t have to be massively sunny, we think the operating range is 10-20,000 lux, we’re not sure about that—but that’s perfectly achievable on a cloudy day in the UK.” He also pointed out the obvious fact that encouraging—allowing—children to play more outside is unlikely to do them any harm. So, yesterday as I typed this, I deliberately took my daughters to the playground instead of joining them in another round of lego building; later, I was joined by my neighbor with his son. Here’s hoping that news of Dr. Morgan’s findings means we see more parents and their children there next time. 2013 summer_ 23



Word Up!

The ‘K’ Interview

By Jen

Sotham Photography By Mike Dixon

On July 6, Wordz Only and its predecessor, Poetry Plus, will mark the 70th spoken word event organized by Kenneth May—the architect of Busan’s literary scene. It was late 2006 when I first met Kenneth May, whom most of us know simply as “K”. There was talk of his Poetry Plus open mic sessions, which were touted as a must for Busan-based creative types. I had been attending open mic at Ol’55, but people said K’s event was different—the kind of thing you just had to see for yourself. And so I made my way underground into Monk bar to see what all the hype was about. Just as K took the stage, I found a seat in the packed room and asked an acquaintance sitting nearby where the sign up sheet was. He pointed to the stage, leaned over and whispered to me, “Talk to that guy,” then put his fingers to his lips to shush me. As K began to read his “Letters to Paris” series, I felt entranced by the rhythm and modulation of his voice. Anyone who has ever heard K read—has ever had a conversation with him—can tell that he doesn’t just put thought into what he says, but also how he says it. It is so very clear how deeply this man respects words. And it was with this same level of respect—in that same, slow, crisp style of delivery that K recently shared his story with me recently over a beer. TELL US ABOUT YOUR OWN WRITING JOURNEY.

I started writing because I was trying to finish my undergraduate degree. At that time, I was between several majors. I had to either pay rent and delay school or I had this idea that I would buy a car and live in my car so I could afford school. I had three jobs and classes... but because I was always in motion, I wound up having all of this dead time—time alone. That was the beginning of my writing. Eventually, I cobbled together all my pieces and decided I’d take a creative writing class for an easy credit because I had all this material already. Little did I know it would snowball into what became my undergraduate pursuit and my masters degree. 24 HAPS_summer 2013


In the States, I had organized events like this, readings with my friends; they were collaborative events. When I came to Busan, it was new territory, new ground. I had a community, but not an arts community. We started Poetry Plus in 2000 and at first it was a very literary scene—almost reverential. As it grew and became more popular, it became more “plus”: we started with 42 people at the first Poetry Plus and eventually we were getting 150 to 170. People were coming from all around Korea to perform because it was the only event of its kind. I guess you can say it was a cross between Laugh-In, an actual reading and the Gong Show.


When I think about Poetry Plus’s legacy, one thing it did was really solidify the foreign community. We would go to the Monk and we would just destroy their liquor stock. Wipe it out—every beer sold, every bottle empty. Other bars adjacent to it would call and complain about the foot traffic and the noise. It wasn’t really that noisy. What they were really complaining about was the amount of business that was going into that place. So we met some other bar owners and managers and we would go to those places and say, “Why don’t you get some of this kind of beer?” and “We don’t want to buy anju!” (Back then, in the old days—if you wanted to have any draft beer whatsoever, you had to buy a side dish of anju, and that was 20 bucks to get the $7 pitcher.) So, Poetry Plus showed Korean business owners that we were an economic force, and we started seeing things change. Before long, we didn’t have to listen to as much K-pop and we didn’t have to order the anju. Our footprint in Kyungsung is quite large.

that avoids stereotypical narrative. If you plan to read, practice at home and time yourself. Read slowly, and let the language be the guide to intonation and cadence. Also, exhibit confidence. WHAT ARE THE MAIN DIFFERENCES THAT YOU SEE BETWEEN THE TWO EVENTS?

Poetry Plus happened back in the days that I like to call the “Wild Wild East”. Now, Busan is pretty refined and cultivated. A lot of the younger folks come in now and think this place is like, as Chris Tharp would say, “Disneyland for alcoholics,” but it’s so much tamer than it was. With the drug testing and the criminal background checks and the higher level of degree authentication, we don’t have the same deranged characters that we used to have performing at Poetry Plus. Poetry Plus was more outlandish—it was almost like poetry theater. Wordz Only is very different, because you no longer have people bringing a live duck and chicken into their performance, you no longer have fire... You just have words.


Because it got so popular toward the end, performers started to angle for certain time slots. That really kind of wore on the production aspect for me—it was like, “Okay, we’ve got a film tonight, a one-act play, five poets and three comedians and we have to make it all fit.” Also, by that time, Busan had grown up— comedy nights were just about ready to happen, music nights were happening all over, theater groups formed—all of these things sprang from Poetry Plus. To be honest, Poetry Plus probably outlived its usefulness. OBVIOUSLY, THE MOST DIRECT DESCENDANT OF POETRY PLUS IS WORDZ ONLY.

When I started Wordz Only, it was time to whittle it down to what it originally was—just words. I had the idea with Wordz that, instead of signing up for time slots, everyone would toss their name in, and each reader would choose the next reader’s name. It promotes a spirit of cooperation and randomness. We just let people share their verbal creations and verbal contributions—sometimes they’re quite amazing and sometimes, they’re something else. But that’s the beauty of it. The audience is receptive and supportive, nobody gets mocked. There are a lot of talented writers in Busan. A lot of our writers are wellpublished and some writers have won awards. Bob Perchan, a long time veteran of both poetry Plus and Wordz Only, has won several awards for his poems. DOES WORDZ GET THE SAME TYPE OF TURNOUT THAT POETRY PLUS DID?

The numbers change quite a bit from event to event, because now there’s so much going on in Busan—there’s so much competition. We tend to draw higher in the colder months and lower in the warmer months. We average around 30 to 40 people per event. Also, our venue, Cafe Radio, is much smaller with less technology. It’s dialed down. ANY ADVICE TO ASPIRING WRITERS AND PARTICIPANTS AT FUTURE WORDZ ONLY EVENTS?

The contributors that really garner my attention the most are those who use imagery as the base of their poems—they avoid abstract language, words like pain or suffering. I’d rather hear You can find out more about upcoming sessions on Facebook at someone say, “My two front teeth hit the concrete” than “I felt “Wordz Only”. The 30th Wordz Only performance will take place pain.” For those who write prose, I like to see good dialogue July 6 at Cafe Radio near Kyungsung University. 2013 summer_ 25


26 HAPS_summer 2013

Harleys in Korea By Bobby

McGill Photography By Alexandra Don

More than ever, Koreans are taking to the road on Harleys. But the U.S.-based motorbike’s image is different in Korea, forcing Harley into a heavy uphill ride.

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“When people see riders moving in a group, they think those people are a part of motorcycle gang. It is understandable, because, at times, even I don’t want to ride a Harley because it is too noisy.”


he name “Harley-Davidson” conjures different images for different people. Some see it as the quintessence of romanticized American individuality; a rider, a bike, two saddlebags strapped to the side, and nothing ahead but the open road. Others see outlaw gangs roaming town to town on dissonant metal steeds, donning layers of leather like a suit of armor, ready to do battle with bumbling Barney Fife like authorities should they get in the way. For the riders themselves, their perception of the Harley “experience” comes in varying measures of allegiance to the “way of life”. With it comes an undying loyalty to the brand (how many product names do people tattoo on their biceps?) and to the oft-cited maxim, “Four wheels move the body. Two wheels move the soul.” The company itself serves up no measure of pretentious poetry on what it all means. In 2008, during the celebration of the 105th year since William S. Harley and Arthur Davidson’s first bike hit the streets of Milwaukee, Wisconsin in 1903, the company put out the following statement: “Over the 105 years in the saddle we’ve seen wars, depression, recession, resistance and revolutions. But every time, this country has come out stronger than before. Because chrome and asphalt put distance between you and whatever the world can throw at you. Freedom and wind outlast hard times. And the rumble of an engine drowns out all the spin on the evening news. If 105 years have proved one thing, it’s that fear sucks and it doesn’t last long. So screw it, let’s ride.” While their motivations may differ with the American brand of the experience, more and more Koreans are taking to the road on Harleys. In a country where motorcycles have been looked down upon as a cheap means of transportation for legions of delivery drivers and couriers, and where a person’s individuality is rarely encouraged, motorcycles are increasingly seen as tools of leisure and an avenue to expand into new social circles. This changing perception, along with an increase in dispos28 HAPS_summer 2013

able income, has helped boost sales of high-performance, large-engine bikes at a time when Korean motorbike sales are in a general decline. According to the Korean Motorcycle Industry Association (KOMIA), while overall motorcycle sales are down, imported bikes with engines of 500cc and above have been on a steady rise. Last year, sales for Harley-Davidson Korea, through its seven dealerships nationwide, hit a record 902 units, up 14 percent from 2010. And in the first half of 2012 they jumped another 47 percent. According to the company, it is enjoying the fruits of the Korea-U.S. free trade agreement that allowed the company to cut the prices of its bikes, which sell in Korea for anywhere from $10,000 to $50,000 USD, by as much as $1,500. Korea is just one part of the company’s international push that now includes more international dealers than U.S. dealers. All told, international purchases accounted for roughly 35 percent of sales in 2012. As far as smaller, mere mortal modes of two-wheel transport on the peninsula, Daelim far and away leads the pack, selling over 60,000 bikes a year, followed by S&T Motors (owners of the

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In keeping with Korea’s more family-oriented culture, Harley-Davidson Korea has placed greater emphasis on family-related events such as the “family tour”, where bikers travel to a destination on their motorcycle while the rest of the family travels along by bus.

30 HAPS_summer 2013

Hyosung brand) in second, with just over 30,000, and Honda in a distant third with just under 5,000 bikes annually. The demographic for Harley riders in Korea, much like that in America, is still largely the domain of middle to upper-class consumers who can afford both the time and the money for the relative luxury-priced brand. So said Connick Lee, deputy general manager at Harley-Davidson Korea in an interview with the Joong Ang Daily. “To own a Harley, one needs to be fairly financially secure and also have a decent amount of leisure time.” Korean purchases of larger engine luxury bikes like Harley, BMW and the varied Japanese offerings are a byproduct of the country’s increasing wealth and its hunger to break from domestic norms. “Having a Harley is like owning a Rolex,” said Kevin Kang, COO of Harley-Davidson Korea. “You don’t own a Rolex because of its accuracy. You buy it because of the brand image.”

up nearly every weekend on a 2011 Street Glide CVO model, thinks that, in time, all roads will be open to motorcyclists. “If riders adhere to traffic laws and the etiquette of the road, I think the regulation will be lifted,” says Lee. As in America, many of the complaints about Harleys revolve around that bubbling-like roar emitted from its twin tailpipes. Interestingly, in the early years of production, Harley-Davidson made its name as the quietest bike on the road. Now, its roar is part of its legend—even for Korean riders. “When I ride a Harley-Davidson, I can feel the uniqueness of its engine and the noise of its exhaust,” says Lee. And what about the perception of the gangster motorcyclist in Korea? “When people see riders in a group, they also think those people are a part of motorcycle gang,” says Lee. “It is understandable because, at times, even I don’t want to ride a Harley because it is too noisy. By not installing a noisy muffler, observing the speed limit, and refraining from the group ride, people will The Korean Harley Journey think differently about Harley riders.” One thing that sets Harley-Davidson apart from other manuAre these likely to happen? Or will Korean Harley riders stick facturers around the world is its community building efforts with the company’s own maxim? “Screw it, let’s ride.” through the Harley Owners Group (HOG), which counts more than one million members in over 1,400 chapters worldwide, making it the largest factory-sponsored motorcycle organization in the world. The Korean chapter of HOG, which now includes over 1,000 members, started in 1999—exactly five years and several administrative hurdles after the Harley-Davidson company was finally allowed to sell in the Korean market in 1994. There is also a sub-group called “Ladies of Harley”, which, along with the parent group, organizes several events and road trips throughout the year just for the ladies. In keeping with Korea’s more family-oriented culture, HarleyDavidson Korea has placed greater emphasis on family-related events such as the “family tour”, where bikers travel to a destination on their motorcycle while the rest of the family travels along by bus. Harley-Davidson’s image of rider-bike-open-road in the Korean consciousness is not without its roadblocks. Here, riders are forbidden from the ‘open road’ as Korea is the only country in the OECD that doesn’t allow motorcycles on highways. 36-year-old Busan businessman Lee Dong-yeup, who saddles

2013 summer_ 31

32 HAPS_summer 2013

2013 summer_ 33



The Damage Done By Jeff

Liebsch Illustration By Kim Da-in

The South Korean government has recently established means to curb the menace of match-fixing in sports. But is it too late? Corruption in sports is nothing new to athletes and fans. But in recent years, South Korea has seen an onslaught of scandals that nearly crippled its domestic sports leagues. The four major sports in South Korea—baseball, football, basketball and volleyball—have all been scrutinized in the past few years for match-fixing incidents in which hundreds of athletes, officials and even coaches have been indicted or put under suspicion for rigging games, much to the dismay of its recent growing fan base. The K-League, the country’s formerly-named national football league, gained the most notoriety of them all when 51 players were banned from not only the domestic league, but by FIFA, the world-governing body of the sport. After the allegations surfaced in 2011, it drove two coaches and a former player to commit suicide. Baseball, Korea’s most lucrative sport, saw a 2012 scandal nearly tear the KBO apart when two pitchers for the LG Twins were banned from the league for issuing walks at the instruction of bookies. As punters were able to bet on individual at-bats, the pitchers would inturn walk batters early in the game in exchange for a paltry $5,000. So why is it that these scandals rocked the Korean sports com-

munity and had players risk their careers over the past few years? In a word, money. As Korea’s domestic sports scene only recently began to flourish, gamblers’ legal sports betting options are limited exclusively to the state-sponsored Sports Toto lottery, which offers betting with a maximum of 100,000 won per ticket and offers odds on wins, ties, losses and the combined scores between teams. As Sports Toto has no Internet site and offers low betting options, gamblers have taken to illegal wagers online, which offer higher maximums and more options. The Korean National Gambling Control Commission lists illegal sports betting as a $6.67-billion business in the country. The Korean government meanwhile has been cracking down on illegal gambling sites—of which there are reportedly 23,000 nationally—whereby some operators have been rumored to make between 500 million to a billion won in profit annually. Yoo Eui-dong, a researcher for the Korea Institute for Sports Science, notes that the problem hasn’t gotten any better despite the government’s involvement. “They are all illegal. It is very difficult to stop,” said Yoo in a 2012 interview with the Christian Science Monitor. The illegal sites, which offer limitless bets, thrive on making



The now ex-Dongbu Promy coach resigned after his arrest, and was indicted for accepting money from brokers to help fix four matches during the 2010-2011 Korean Basketball League season. 34 HAPS_summer 2013


A former national team player, he’s rumored to be working as a receptionist at a hospital in Seoul rather than applying his talents on the pitch after being busted in 2011.


LG’s former ace, who in 2011 won 13 games and also pitched for the Korean national team, initially denied his involvement in gambling until his admission brought harsh criticism from fans and media alike.


Vancouver Olympic gold medallist Lee was banned for three years of international competition in 2010 after allegedly helping to rig competitions and national team trials.


The medal contending doubles badminton duo were tossed from the 2012 Olympic Games after intentionally losing which would have allowed them to play a weaker opponent in the next round.

“prop bets”, which allow gamblers to bet on individual plays or occurrences but don’t necessarily determine the outcome of a game. While marquee players can make hundreds of thousands of dollars, lower-tiered athletes involvement in match-fixing became apparent as many players were vulnerable to coercion from bookies due to low salaries (some as low as 1,000,000 won a month) and needed supplemental income just to survive. Others simply joined what they thought was a common phenomenon. “I joined the match-fixing without much compunction because I had heard that it’s widespread in the league,” said Yeom Dong-kyun, a former goalkeeper with the K-League’s Jeonbuk Motors who was also given a lifetime ban. The Korean government, apt to eradicate illegal sites and player manipulation, set up new laws in April to punish these online gamblers with heavy fines and imprisonment for up to five years. Players caught gambling or fixing games will face expulsion from the leagues. But the question remains: Will the new enforcement work? It’s hard to say, as many of the illegal betting sites are based overseas and change domains frequently. And with hundreds of millions of won to be made, many website operators are prone to take the risk. The biggest hurdle for the government will be the resiliency of gamblers themselves. Blocking websites and task-groups assigned to search and shut down sites will almost surely take a backseat to innovators and proxies for those looking to get their betting fix. A silver lining can be seen from the scandals, however, as the newly formed commission has applied ethical standards and heavy penalties for players who gamble and raised the minimum salaries to 24 million won per player in all major sports, in hopes of making the appeal of succumbing to bookies seem less appealing. One thing’s for sure: The enmity between the government, the bookies and the punters is surely not going to die down anytime soon.





Tokyo Impressions Story and Photography By Michael


The world’s largest urban area, a living poem, a very expensive weekend away. Michael Fraiman tries to tackle it all in under two days. There is so much already written about ground, underappreciated ramen shop are jagged-edged with distinct outdoor Tokyo, and so much more that needs to and you’re bound to find a stern-faced staircases that resemble the crude pixels be, that my paltry two days (not even!) man in a white chef’s cap wringing wa- of an 8-bit Nintendo game. It bears the feel too preposterously short to scribble ter out of freshly cut noodles that make marks of a city that decided long ago it down anything that could meaning- you wonder how anyone else could know would be a trendsetter, and only somefully add to the canon of Tokyo lit. Who this place exists. This is choose-your-own- times succeeded. can know this city? The high-speed train adventure travel; you’ve got to embrace But oh God did it succeed when it did. plows on from Narita International, at every chance encounter and mourn your Its philosophical conception of the fuleast 90 minutes from the urban core; the short time with each. ture is terrifying not for its accuracy but outside cityscape is never-ending. And a short time is, really, all you can af- for its perverse catering to isolation. EcoThis is hardly a metaphor. I left Tokyo ford. Tokyo might remind you of the ste- nomic capsule hotels, born in Japan back convinced it is universal and limitless. reotypically aloof high school girl who in 1979, offer the cheapest beds around You can witness a colorful young woman feels she’s doing you a favor by letting you with nasty side effects for claustrophostomping through Harajuku’s fashion- buy her dinner. (This is the opposite, of bics; on the seventh floor of an arcade conscious Takeshita Street in in Akihabara, young men line purple polka-dotted kneeup in droves to play the latest This is choose-your-own-adventure travel; high socks and a Super MaGundam Wing fighter solo; rio mushroom cap and be you’ve got to embrace every chance encounter across the street, the top two convinced you’ve stumbled floors of a sex shop flared up and mourn your short time with each. upon the city’s most bizarre by pink neon are literally offfashionista for precisely one second, un- course, of Southeast Asia, where every- limits to women, offering exclusively to til you’re proven wrong by someone who one very much does need you, and your men fleshy, legless vaginas and synthetic, looks like they’ve walked out of a Tim Bur- money, and makes this very clear.) ever-gaping mouths. ton-directed anime. They all look differKeeping up world-leading appearances The shock factor here isn’t that such ent, but they also somehow match. That’s feels as natural to Tokyo as a Misono knife stuff is being sold, but it’s that it’s actually the magic of this city: It manages to gel its gliding through fresh sashimi. Its train selling. The Japanese, apparently, know utter differentness together, all its confus- system—should we even get into it? Well, what people want. How do they know ing bits coalescing in quirky cohesion. just a titch—is nightmarishly baffling, all this? How can a city be so in tune with Most people I know with any sense of though any time we asked for directions weird dreamscapes and perverse fantatravel have, at least briefly, experienced between one of Shinjuku’s eight stations, sies? There’s something about this place Tokyo, and everyone comes back with someone would chuckle and point us in that makes people want to figure it out a different kind of story. This is because what I guess they thought was a very sim- and constantly fall short, like a puzzle so many recommendations start with ple and obvious direction. missing some pieces. Nobody ever will, “There’s a small...” and end with “...good In truth, though, the whole city looks and everyone will keep trying, lured in by luck finding it, though.” The city is a mas- like it was rapidly built in the 1970s and its famously fresh food, its centuries-old sive collection of holes-in-the-wall, each ‘80s to look like the future, and the poor history, its frank contemporary awesomedown narrow curving alleys, beautiful schmucks who have to live there have ness. not for their smallness but for their ability been scrambling to keep up ever since. I’d love to live here. I knew it before I to somehow be so much bigger. Follow The trains, for all their quantity, smell even went. But that doesn’t mean I’m not a poorly-lit stairwell down to an under- musty and look old. Apartment buildings terrified to visit again. 36 HAPS_summer 2013

2013 summer_ 37


Unsusa: So Close and Yet So Far By Hal

Swindall Photography By Indy Randhawa

Tucked away in the mountains of Busan, Unsu temple is full of beauty, tradition and charming legends and is one of the city’s little known treasures. Although marked on Busan’s standard tourist map, this small and quiet Buddhist temple is a perfect half-day trip within city limits. Since most cabbies only have a vague idea of its location, getting there requires a 20-minute ride up steep and narrow lanes that lead to a windy mountain road. Visitors who have lived in Busan for a while without knowing about this temple will be surprised at how distant from the hustle and bustle of the city’s main arteries Unsusa is. Being there gives one the eerie feeling of having traveled a much further distance. The Jogye Buddhist temple’s name literally means “cloud water temple”. Founded in the early ninth century by Master Doui, who brought seon (zen) Buddhism back from China, Jogye’s nine-plus million members make it the largest Buddhist sect in Korea. No one knows when Unsusa was founded, but roof tiles discovered in its vicinity indicate that it was once larger than it now is. Its English-speaking abbot, Lee Yu-jung, claims it is even older than Beomeosa, Busan’s largest Buddhist temple. According to legend, in old times its evening bell ringing was audible from as far away as Gimhae, and provided soothing spiritual relief to all who heard it. Given how far up Baekyang Mountain it lies, it’s difficult to believe that the ringing was heard even at the foot of the mountain, but the legend makes for a charm38 HAPS_summer 2013

ing story. Lee says the bell was lost in the Imjin War circa the 1592, and notes plans to acquire a new one in 2015. First-time visitors might be disappointed by Unsusa’s exterior plainness, but inside the courtyard is a little-known architectural treasure: Daeungjeon, or “Hall of Great Enlightenment”, the temple’s main hall and one of the very few ancient Korean buildings to have escaped destruction in 1592. Or so says an English sign in the complex. Unusa’s history is indeterminable: Sasang-gu’s website claims the whole temple was burned by the Japanese in 1592; Lee, who probably knows better than anyone else, claims the hall was built only 366 years ago, which would make it constructed in the century following the temple’s sacking by the Japanese. Whenever it was built, Daeungjeon used to sit in the center of Unsusa’s courtyard, with a small stupa before it. By the end of April, it had been completely dismantled for renovation and reconstruction at the other end of the courtyard. Much of the original wood is too rotten to be reused, but Lee is hoping to retain as much of the ancient timber as possible in the reconstruction. He plans to have the new hall completed in 2014. Like all main halls, Daeungjeon is the focal point of the mandala, a geometrically arranged image of the cosmos that

Buddhist temples are constructed to form when seen from above. Also in keeping with standard Buddhist practice, it is constructed entirely of wood, and apparently without any use of nails. The interlocking of pieces of wood were made such that buildings could be dismantled and relocated, but mainly symbolizes interdependence in which each part depends upon the whole and vice-versa. Wood has always been especially valued in Korean Buddhism, and was traditionally used for all parts of temple buildings; although concrete is often used in contemporary urban temples, it is still painted to look like wood. The glory of any temple building is its roof, and Daeungjeon’s is no exception: its’ is multi-tiered and ornately gabled. As for the man behind the hall, Lee is a 50-something Busan native. He did not come from a religious family, but met the influential zen master Sung Oh as a freshman at Seoul’s Dongguk University. Sung Ho advised Lee to “follow me!”, which the young Lee did, immediately giving everything up to become a novice at Beomeosa. Now that he is himself a master, Lee is extremely busy supervising his six monks and 400 volunteers who help out part-time, as well as dealing with visitors from across East Asia. This level of activity, he claims, is “businessman-style, not monk-style.” Even though Unsusa’s environs seem terribly tranquil compared to Seomyeon or Haeundae, the abbot insists on spending three days of every month at a solitary retreat in Jeollanam Province’s Wolchulsan National Park. There, he can meditate by himself and feel very happy. Lee hopes that more westerners will visit this hidden gem of a temple, and made a note to invite all foreigners to the celebrations for the restoration of Daeungjeon next year and the new bell the year after. To get to Unsusa, take subway line 2 to Mora station (exits 2 or 4), Gunam station (any exit) or Gumyeong station (exit 2). From any of these, you must catch a taxi, since finding the way to Unsusa on foot would be practically impossible. The ride will be 15 to 20 minutes and cost around 6,000 won. Once you have seen the temple, you will have to walk back all the way to the foot of the mountain, which takes at least 45 minutes. Unsusa’s land line is 051-313-3300, and Lee Yujung’s email is Shanti, shanti, shanti.

2013 summer_ 39

Community Corner

Climbing the Unconquered By

Bryan Hylenski & Jake Preston

A group of expat mountain climbers set their sights on summiting India’s Janhukot, a feat none before them have accomplished. In June of 2001, I was sitting next to my father, who could barely speak due to the infection invading his throat. He had recently lost his battle with cancer and was now just suffering from the damage of chemotherapy, hoping to enjoy his last few days with his family and friends. We stayed up late into the evenings chatting via small notes, about my recent obsession with climbing and my future plans. I told him about my intention to attempt Denali (Mt. McKinley) as my first big mountaineering trip. I spoke of my training, the skills I needed to learn and the need to challenge myself. I told him of my plans to save money, work extra hours and all the little things involved in the endeavor, and that, no matter what, I was going to do this. He grinned and asked for his wallet. He took out a single dollar bill and wrote, “I’m your first sponsor; don’t say I never gave you anything!” We both laughed and moved on to other subjects before he fell asleep. Later that evening, my father passed. I took half of that dollar bill and placed it in his casket, the other half still resides today, taped inside my helmet. A year later, I sat atop the summit of Denali, in -47 degrees Celsius temperatures, warmed by the thought of that grin my dad would always flash when he was pulling my leg. Years later, I moved to Daegu in 2009 to teach sports and English at Taekyeung University, but also to focus on my climbing. I have been climbing since 1999, but due to the American “lifestyle”, time and money was hard to come by. Thus, with the support of my family, we moved to Korea for a simpler life and a focus on our dreams. 40 HAPS_summer 2013

That’s why, this summer, myself and four expat climbers living here on the peninsula will attempt another dream—climb that that no other person in the world has been able to accomplish. Since the 1950s and ‘60s, teams of climbers from all over the world have traveled to a remote Indian region to try and reach the summit of the unclimbed giant, “Janhukot”. None have ever succeeded. Nestled in the far reaches of the Indian Garhwal Himalaya, up past the sacred fountain spring of the mighty Ganges River, Janhukot [pronounced Jan-ookot] beckons. It is one of the last great mountains in this region that remains unsummited. To reach the toe of Janhukot demands over 60 tortuous kilometers of strenuous hiking from the nearest settlement, which is guarded by two ancient glaciers, labyrinthine moraines and perilous Himalayan weather fronts. Few humans have ever even made it this far. From here, the truly formidable climbing begins. From rock falls to avalanches to vertiginous walls of snow and ice, it is little wonder Janhukot’s summit has eluded those who sought to climb her. Though it can feel like purgatory, those adventurous enough to accept the challenge are rewarded with breathtaking views, precious isolation and the experience of a lifetime. In 2010, our team came within 300 meters of Janhukot’s coveted summit— reaching a high point no other had ascended before and a view no other eyes had ever witnessed. Yet, despite being so close, we too were turned back. In June 2013, we will return to Janhukot, to finish the job. Our Team, dubbed

the Dedicated Everyman, is comprised of myself, Bryan Hylenski of Daegu, Jake Preston and Gabe Thomas from Seoul, Dan Kopperud in Daejeon and Jonn Jeanneret of Okinawa,Japan. We are teachers living and working here in East Asia, yet, at the same time, similarly focused on one dream and one goal. We train, sacrifice family time, travel all around Korea and focus our personal activities on one objective—Janhukot. Jonn, the final member of the team, will be joining us as both a climber, photographer and documentary filmmaker, providing supporters of this team the ability to relive the adventure, as well as experience the passion and pain that is a first ascent so folks like my father, who never got to see me climb, can have a small glimpse into the world we care so deeply about. None of this would have been possible without the great support of friends, family and strangers who contributed to our Kickstarter campaign to fund the trip. Thanks to your support we were able to raise the $10,000 needed to make this all happen. For that, we thank you. For more info about the hike and the upcoming documentary, go to: If you would like to support the Kickstarter project, visit

Ask an Expat

Korea’s Swedish Smile by Michael Fraiman

Every industry has its rock stars. In the field of dental surgery, you’d be hard pressed to find a more respected, more published and more accomplished professional than Dr. Sul Young-taeg. Sweden’s Gothenburg University’s Center for Biomaterials, arguably the most prestigious university for dental implant surgery in the world, accepted one PhD student per year between 1990 and 2010. It is extremely competitive. And, until 2002, not a single East Asian had ever graduated from its hallowed halls. Nor had anyone whose first language was so removed from English written over 70 research papers, created over 20 international patents and published a nearly 200-page-long dissertation on dental implant surfaces. Then came Dr. Sul Young-taeg. “I want to emphasize who I am,” he says with his distinctly Korean-Swedish accent acquired from living there so long. And who he is is more than the accolades and newspaper clippings that hang on the walls of his Haeundae office along with the certificates from Gothenburg and the US Army for his contributions to American research. He’s more than just a doctor in a nautically-themed office with Swedish design flair. Dr. Sul is a professional. He approaches his craft with the nobility and selflessness of an experienced doctor, as someone who knows what he must do and the smartest way to do it. He prefers, for example, research to clinical work, and doesn’t do aesthetic dental work like teeth whitening. To understand Dr. Sul’s professionalism, one must first understand Dr. P.I. Brånemark, under whom Dr. Sul studied, and who is often cited as the “Grandfather of Dental Implants”. Sound obscure? He’s actually a huge deal. He was the first to discover, in the early 1950s, that mam-

mal bones will grow to adhere to titanium implants if they’re close enough; in short, he helped create modern dental implantation. Dr. Brånemark consequently grew to be a world leader in dental implant surgery and research. And it was during his tenure at Gothenburg University, in 1997, that a young Sul Young-taeg traveled from South Korea to Sweden with only a little English, zero Swedish and a sincere desire to study dentistry. Aside from a three-month stint Cambridge to work on his English, Dr. Sul spent the next five years at Gothenburg. He fell in love with research, specializing in dental implant surfaces, before his study culminated in a remarkable and dense English-language PhD dissertation in 2002. After his publication, however, he felt torn. On the one hand, he felt his native land calling him back; his parents were both alive and living in Miryang, his hometown, while he was raising three children with his wife in Scandinavia. But his European prospects were too promising, and so he applied for, and was accepted as, an assistant professor at Gothenburg. Over the following 10 years, he advanced to associate and adjunct professorship, while his children grew up, two of them moving to study at MIT in Cambridge, Massachusetts. His father passed away. Suddenly, with his mother alone in Miryang, he and his wife began to feel antsy. “When you get old, you miss your native town,” he reflected. “I missed a lot of things about Korea.”

And so, in November, 2012, he moved back to South Korea. The city didn’t matter; though Dr. Sul had been a practicing clinician for six years prior to Sweden, all of his Korean contacts had dried up. He found an office on the ninth floor of the Centum Imperial Tower in Busan and started his business, and effectively his career, all over again. It has since not been easy. The differences between Korea and Sweden are enormous—the politics, the culture, the food, the climate. He’s been speaking English for the past 15 years; now, he must revert back to Korean. But perhaps the hardest blow to his career has been the fact that so few Koreans understand and respect his accomplishments—that he trained at one of the best schools in the world, or that his knowledge of dental implant surgery is significantly more nuanced than other dentists’. Koreans, he worries, are drawn to save money on cheaper surgeries, regardless of the longevity of the implant. But with no research to prove how long Korean dental implants last, he may as well be shouting off the roof of his office building. “You are a human being,” he insists. “You are not chairs or desks or cups. How can you put a price on a cavity?” Editor’s note: Sweden Dental is an advertiser with Haps.

2013 summer_ 41

Dining & Food

The Dish:

Salmon Saveur By Jen Sotham Photography by Jason M.S. Simms

It’s most people’s favorite fish and we’ve likely all had it prepared nearly every possible way. Jen consults her Flavor Bible and divines a new twist on salmon. For someone who writes about food, I don’t cook nearly as much as I’d like to. When I do cook, I stick mostly to a repertoire of recipes that have been either handed down to me or which I developed back when I had an arsenal of high-end ingredients at my disposal. In the past seven years, my creations have been adapted to fit within the confines of my Korean kitchen and the limited cache of items I have access to. Last week I not only got the itch to cook, but I found myself wanting to create. I journeyed over to SSG Mart in Marine City and made a beeline for the fish counter, where they’re always willing to slice up a few salmon fillets to my specifications. I plucked salmon-appropriate produce, herbs and condiments from the shelves before heading home to experiment. An hour of pouring over my Flavor Bible followed by an hour of mixing and tasting proffered a new, summery twist on my favorite fish.

PISTACHIO CRUSTED SALMON WITH CELERY CREAM SAUCE PREP TIME: 30-40 MINUTES - SERVES 4 INGREDIENTS: 4 x 150g salmon fillets 2 large celery stalks – cleaned and diced 3 large cucumbers – peeled and sliced into thin discs Heavy cream (not sweetened) Dijon mustard Fresh dill Lemon Butter (or I Can’t Believe It’s Not Butter) Buckwheat noodles Apple cider vinegar Pear juice Capers Roasted pepper pistachio nuts Prepared horseradish Sundried tomato tapenade DIRECTIONS: Boil about 200g of buckwheat noodles. Drain and toss them with a splash of apple cider vinegar, a splash of pear juice and a tablespoon of sundried tomato paste. Put into tupperware with a strong lid and shake until evenly coated, then place it in the fridge to chill. Preheat oven to 150 degrees Celsius. Shell about 50 pistachio nuts and grind them into a powder. In a small bowl, mix juice from one lemon, three tablespoons of soft butter, one tablespoon of horseradish and two sprigs of dill leaves. Place salmon in an oiled baking pan. Spread the butter mix on top of each fillet and then coat each fillet evenly with a thick layer of grounded pistachios. Cover the baking dish with foil and cook the salmon for about six minutes. Uncover the salmon and let cook for an additional six or eight minutes. For the sauce: In a food processor, blend 200ml of heavy cream, two tablespoons of dijon mustard, three sprigs of dill, two tablespoons of horseradish and the diced celery. When the salmon is almost ready, put the sauce in a small saucepan, add three tablespoons of capers (drained) and heat on a low flame until it is warm, stirring constantly. For a nice presentation, lay the sliced cucumbers flat on each plate, followed by the chilled noodles. Place salmon fillets on the noodles and top with an ample amount of sauce.

42 HAPS_summer 2013

Home Cooking

Breaking the Coffee Chain By Tory Mock

It’s hard to toss a coffee bean in any direction without hitting a café in Korea. But more coffee drinkers are moving away from lower-quality chain coffee and seeking out freshly roasted beans from indie cafés. South Korea’s cities are overrun with cafés. According to the Samsung Economic Research Institute, the number of coffee shops here jumped from about 6,000 in 2008 to 9,400 in 2011. Other studies put the number as high as 17,000 in Seoul alone. There are so many coffee shops in the South Korean capital that the Fair Trade Commission set a limit on the distance between new coffeehouse chains to at least 500 meters. In addition to Starbucks, which is run by Shinsegae, 40 percent of the nation’s cafés are run by the top five Korean brands—Caffe Bene, Hollys Coffee, Ediya Coffee, Angel-in-us and Tom n’ Toms. A common complaint amongst both expats and an increasing number of Koreans is that chain coffee is cheaply roasted, weak in strength and lacking in taste. This is driving the Korea’s coffeeholics to seek out better alternatives in smaller roasting companies and independent cafés. “I started drinking three to four cups of coffee when I started working for a company, so I started to drink at franchise coffee shops like Starbucks, Coffee Bean, Angel-in-us and Twosome Place,” says Jay Song, a professor at Busan University of Foreign studies. “Then I thought, if I was going to drink coffee, I would rather drink a good one, so I started looking for good cafés.” Song became so interested in finding good coffee that she signed up for classes about the world’s favorite bean and eventually opened her own shop, My Table All Day Café in Marine City, where she now teaches people about the difference be-

tween a good cup of coffee and a bad one. Roh Eun-ji, manager and roaster at Fresh Cups in Haeundae has been in the coffee industry for seven years. She quit working at chain stores to join an independent shop where she could choose her own beans and roast them for a higher-quality taste. Like Song, she believes that as Koreans learn more about finelycrafted coffee, fewer will support the big chains for their fix. “They need to learn how to distinguish fine coffee from others,” says Roh. “For Koreans to be able to consume better coffee, the role of cafés is important to change their awareness of quality coffee.” As far as the low-quality coffee served up by the major chains, Roh’s assessment is that their priorities are misplaced. “From my experience working at the franchise coffee shops, I know that every franchise shop doesn’t have the same quality of coffee. That means people come up with ideas for interior design or advertisements rather than the taste of the coffee.” Considering that last year 63 percent of the coffee consumed in Korea was dispersed from a powdery packet, it will take time for a stampede to rush towards indie coffee shops. Even Jay Song has her doubts. “The simple fact is that price is, sometimes, more important than taste. Some people will view coffee just as coffee and not as ‘culture,’ or care about the perfect blend,” she says. “I think it is difficult to expect that there will definitely be a high-end coffee culture forming in Korea. Time will tell.”


Just outside exit 2 of the subway station, Cafe Momos is ranked as the founder of fine coffee in Korea. You can taste freshly roasted coffee from various regions, as well as dig on some great homebaked goods, all in one funky multi-level spot. 051-512-7034


Jay Song judiciously picks her beans, but has an affinity for Guatemalan beans. She also features her own Dutch coffees as well as an excellent selection of organic homemade foods and goodies to enjoy with your cup of joe. 051-744-8989







Along with roasting their own coffee, In Earth Coffee also serves a variety of tasty pastries that they bake twice daily in their own kitchen. It also ranks as one of the top indie coffee shops in Korea and is a sure spot for a consistent cup of quality brew. 051-703-7666

One of the oldest roasters in town, Adagio is behind the large department store just outside Jangsan station exit 4 and has been roasting fresh beans since 2001. You pick the beans and Kim Young-han roasts them up right away. 1544-1895

Right outside exit 5 of the Jung-dong station, Fresh Cups roasts their own beans in-house and makes arguably the best café frappe in the world. Check out the tasty blueberry chicken salad sandwich and an awesome crème brûlée. 051-747-3560 blog.

2013 summer_ 43

Dining & Food


Five From France By

Anthony Velasquez

With Bastille Day coming up in July, these wines highlight a few of the most important regions in France that meet an above average quality-to-price ratio. Allez! Tchin tchin!

Piper Heidsieck, Brut Champagne Considering how hard it is to find veritable Champagne in Busan for under 70,000 won, this a great deal for this maison, popular since 1785 and based in Reims: the historic, cultural heart of Champagne. This medium-bodied bubbly bottle offer notes of pear, apple, slight citrus and interesting notes of yeast and flinty smoke. (Home Plus, regularly 68,200 won or 52,000 on sale.)

2008 Chateau Cantemerle, Haut-Medoc

2002 Pierre Gelin, Fixin 1er Cru ‘Clos Napoleon’

To find a classified growth at this price is a rarity for Bordeaux lovers. While the 2007 is also available, the 2008 delivers a fuller, more concentrated effort from this vintage with flavors of black and blue fruits, earthy minerality, and the structure which typifies this Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. (Shinsegae basement wine shop, 60,000.)

This 100-percent Pinot Noir hails from a vineyard once owned by an Imperial Guard officer who escorted Napolean to Elba. Now owned by Domaine Pierre Gelin, these sturdy, rustic age-worthy Pinots now epitomize complex, elegant Burgundies due to the fantastic 2002 vintage and its terroir. (Shinsegae basement wine shop, 74,200.)

2009 La Griveliere, Cotes du Rhone

2011 Baron de Lestac, Bordeaux Blanc

Though lighter and smoother than more typical wines from this southern France region, it’s still a classic blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mouvedre and Carignan to hit the right Rhone notes of dusty cherries, fresh, sweet herbs and a pleasant earthiness balanced by mild acidity and tannins. (EMart, 17,000.)

An affordable white wine summer quaffer, it blends Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Muscadelle in the traditional Bordeaux fashion. It offers a flowery, tropical, vanilla nose with flavors of pineapple, mango and tangerine supported by light oak and lime. It’s summertime! (EMart, 12,000.)

44 HAPS_summer 2013

Home Cooking

2013 summer_ 45

Music Scene

Interview: Brian Tichy By Johnny Ioannidis From Ozzy to Billy Idol to Foreigner and Velvet Revolver, American drummer/guitarist Brian Tichy has gigged, recorded and written with some of the most well-known musicians in the world. Haps interviews one of music’s top journeyman as he sets out on his own project with Canadian vocalist Sass Jordan. When Haps asked me if I was interest- whiskey. In the age of auto-tune and lip I got from my music business class was, ed in interviewing “this drummer with synching, it’s truly a breath of fresh air “Don’t sign anything without a lawyer.” an incredible resume,” I had no idea from the first track until the last. Ever a I completely disregarded that and, at 21 what they were talking about, but I will al- busy boy, Tichy has been slated to go on years of age, signed everything put in ways take such a gig on general principle. tour with Queensryche for the month of front of me—Atlantic records contracts When I found out the guy in question was June, filling in for drummer Simon Wright, for this band, and that album, etc. I basiBrian Tichy, I realized my luck. and I had the chance to talk with him be- cally signed my life away. I know Tichy’s stellar work on Billy Idol’s fore he hit the road. You can get completely caught up in the 2005 comeback album Devil’s Playground world of Berklee, and think that attendand subsequent tour, but I had no idea of HAPS: THE FRANK ZAPPA SONG “YO ing that school is the end-all and be-all of the true measure of his background. His CATS” IS A CRITICISM OF BERKLEE COL- your existence. What I got from it was a CV reads like the credits in the Woodstock LEGE OF MUSIC ALUMNI WHOSE AMBI- total appreciation for other genres of mumovie: Gilby Clarke, Ozzy Osbourne, Ste- TION IS MERELY TO BECOME STUDIO sic, even though, at heart, I was a KISS and ven Tyler, Vinnie Moore, Velvet Revolver, HACKS WHO CHASE THE ALMIGHTY Van Halen fan. I started listening to jazz, Stevie Salas, Zakk Wylde, Sass Jordan, For- DOLLAR, REGARDLESS OF THE QUAL- fusion, and ended up becoming a huge eigner, Whitesnake, Billy Idol, Slash... The ITY OF THE MUSIC THEY’RE PAID TO James Brown fan. I completely engulfed list is truly endless. PLAY. AS A GRADUATE OF THAT SAME myself in the experience. It was 100-perIf your rap sheet has references of this SCHOOL, WHAT WAS YOUR EXPERIENCE cent great. caliber, not much of an introduction is LIKE? AS SOMEWHAT OF A LEGENDARY SESnecessary, but I’ll give it the old college Tichy: I was the oldest of four kids at the SION AND TOURING PLAYER, YOUR try. Brian Tichy was born in Denville, New time. My parents were saving for col- RESUME IS SPECTACULAR. REGARDJersey, and grew up addicted to classic lege, and to me that meant fraternities LESS OF YOUR TALENT, DO YOU THINK rock. His intense love of all PART OF THE REASON YOU things musical led him to atGOT SO MUCH WORK IS BEHIS CV READS LIKE THE CREDITS tend the Berklee College of CAUSE YOU’RE ACTUALLY A IN THE WOODSTOCK MOVIE Music in Boston. Following DECENT HUMAN BEING? graduation, Tichy started I would hope so. To lift a ... THE LIST IS TRULY ENDLESS. to work the club scene in quote from Zappa, “Shut New Jersey, eventually garnering repu- and what not—my whole approach to up and play your drums.” I was adamant tation as an extremely capable and en- my folks was, “Where can I go to play the about just doing a great job and not trythusiastic skinsman. In between his ses- drums?” At that time, their whole notion ing to waste the employers’ time, whethsion and touring work, he put his guitar was, We’re sending our firstborn to college, er it’s a local guy’s demo or Steven Tyler. I skills to good use and formed his own which we’ve saved money for; that’s what always want to prove my worth. I think it band, called Ball. Unfortunately, co-writ- you do! I could have been rebellious and would be lame to walk into a session and ing commitments with Billy Idol in 2003 gone to work at a gas station, but I had have some kind of (egotistical) attitude. I stopped Ball from rolling on to bigger a good relationship with them. Someone was most happy when the people were things. told me about a music college in Boston satisfied with my work. Following touring and recording gigs where you got college credit and were HERE’S A HYPOTHETICAL FOR YOU: with Foreigner and Whitesnake, Tichy put around music all the time. As a 17-year- JIMMY PAGE IS PUTTING TOGETHER together the group, S.U.N. (Something old kid, that totally appealed to me, even A GROUP TO PLAY IN NORTH KOREA Unto Nothing), and recorded an album though the college had very little to do WHILE THE BULLETS ARE FLYING, AND that reeks of dirty riffs, tumbleweeds and with the music industry. The best advice YOU GET THE CALL. DO YOU GO OR DO 46 HAPS_summer 2013


If Jimmy Page is going for something that most people consider to be crazy, and I’m gonna say my final goodbyes that way, then I’ll go for it. MY BUDDY AND I TOOK IN THE TOKYO OZZFEST THIS YEAR, AND SABBATH WAS INCREDIBLE. WHAT WAS YOUR EXPERIENCE PLAYING WITH HIM OZZY AT OZZFEST 2000?

Playing with Ozzy was and still is a total highlight in my life. Tony, Geezer, and Ozzy will play those classic tunes exactly how they’re meant to be played. My buddy Tommy Clufetos will be playing the hell out of them also--irrespective of the contract issues the band has with Bill Ward—who’s still an amazing drummer. Tommy keeps great time, he’s super-reliable, he’s a powerhouse drummer, and some people might be disappointed that they’re not seeing the full line-up—but I think for the most part, people will have a great time. To be able to sit on any given stage in the summer of 2000, at a festival which included Queens of The Stone Age, Disturbed, Tommy Lee, Godsmack, Pantera, and then being able to back up Ozzy? With friends like Tommy and Dimebag (Darrell; deceased Pantera guitarist) watching in the wings during the set? It was incredibly intense. A few months ago Charlie Benante from Anthrax (who I used to cover in high school) told me that he thought of all the Ozzy drummers, that I was the best. I wanted to record him saying that or get him to write it on a napkin just to prove that he meant it (laughs). YOU COLLABORATED WITH BILLY IDOL ON HIS DEVIL’S PLAYGROUND AND HAPPY HOLIDAYS ALBUMS MORE RECENTLY. TELL US ABOUT THAT.


The Devil’s Playground record goes back to 2003, when Billy didn’t quite know what he wanted to do next. A mutual friend suggested he visit my studio, and we simply met and started writing. There was no record happening at the time. A few years later, we started writing some more. In my situation, if I have a pro tools rig, and drums and guitars, I can pretty much get everything going, so at the end of the day, you’ll have a guitar track, a bass track vocals, without the need of any engineers. I think he dug the fact that there was no need to wait around. Over the course of a few months, there was the 2013 summer_ 47

Music Scene album, along with some tracks that Billy and Steve had written prior to our meeting each other. The Christmas record came out as a lark, really. He just wanted a couple of Christmas songs for his website, but his management liked it and got in touch with Best Buy who were totally into the concept of a whole album. We really hit it off. There are some more songs we’ve written that will likely see the light of day in the future. YOUR CURRENT PROJECT, S.U.N. (SOMETHING UNTO NOTHING), INVOLVES SASS JORDAN, MICHAEL DEVIN AND TOMMY STEWART, AND YOU’VE FORSAKEN THE DRUM KIT FOR GUITAR DUTY—SASS JORDAN IS A LEGENDARY CANADIAN SINGER, ESPECIALLY KNOWN FOR HER SEXY, BLUESY VOCALS. WHAT DO YOU LIKE MOST ABOUT THIS BAND?

I played drums on her Rats record many years ago, and always loved her voice—a killer, natural tone and she really made it into something she owns. She had an open invitation to come out to LA and just write some songs. “Burn” was the first thing we wrote. As far as the feel of the music, it brings to mind the Fleetwood Mac song “Oh, Well”, or “Spoonman” by Soundgarden… I’ve always loved that call-and-answer type songwriting style. Everything including the name of the band came about very organically. Michael Devin came along and improved on the demo basslines I had put down. Tommy Stewart, I had met while doing the Ozzfest, and we reconnected since then. LISTENING TO THE LIVE AND STUDIO VERSIONS OF “NOMAD”, THEY BOTH SOUND STRIPPED DOWN, TIGHT, AND HEAVY AS HELL. I TAKE IT YOU’RE NOT MUCH FOR EFFECTS PEDALS?

It depends on what’s going on. If I listen to a bunch of Rush, I may end up turning on choruses and delays, and if that influences the writing, so be it. With Sass, I know she’s not a fan of shredding guitar heroics, which I was in agreement with— as far as making more of a melodic, Don Felder-type solo that you can sing. I wanted every note to count. With [Joe] Walsh, 48 HAPS_summer 2013

his stuff is so unassuming… not to decry the abilities of a Van Halen or an Yngwie Malmsteen, but to go from that supertechnical, super-fast style to something slower and more deliberate, where you get so much emotion out of a single note, it’s not as easy as it seems.


Possibly a combination of the fact that Whitesnake was more well-known in Europe before they broke big in the States, as well as the fact that David Coverdale had a name with Deep Purple even before Whitesnake. “Slip It In” got huge at the same time that MTV did, and it was the style of the day, with Tawny Kitaen humping the car, and all that. “Here I Go Again” and “Still Of The Night” were staples of the hair era. For better or for worse, those songs will be played on FM radio forever, because they were so massive. DRUM SOLOS: ARE THEY REALLY NECESSARY?

I don’t think they’re necessary, but I do think they’re badass. I think they add to the live experience; it really is two sides of the coin. Go to a Rush conPHOTO BY TORRY PENDERGRASS cert and watch Neil Peart do a drum solo and watch 20,000 ERIC CARR FROM KISS WAS ANOTHER people freak out. On the other hand, reDRUMMER WHO HAD A SECRET TAL- move that drum solo and you’ll see how ENT FOR GUITAR. DO YOU COME FROM many people complain that they omitted it! A Zeppelin concert without “Moby A MUSICAL FAMILY? I was a drummer first, but guitars were Dick”? I don’t know. Look, not everything always there. I would hear the separa- is for everybody—maybe the casual fan tion of various parts of a song. My father wouldn’t care for one. Most drum solos could play piano, guitar, drums, accor- probably aren’t technically the best thing dion, he could sing; my mom could play in the world—Tommy Lee’s an example piano and sing, too. My father had a Gib- of a guy who took it to the level where it son acoustic guitar with an insanely high works for everybody because it’s such a action, and while showing me an E chord visual thing. or a G chord, it was really painful to play PICK THREE ALBUMS YOU’D TAKE WITH if you hadn’t developed calluses. He also YOU WHILE STRANDED ON A DESERTED showed me the riff to “Day Tripper”. That ISLAND. was before I knew about “Smoke on The Led Zeppelin - Physical Graffiti, Rush Water”, “Iron Man”, etc., and “Day Tripper” Exit Stage Left, James Brown - In The Junwas way harder than those. I learned a lot gle Groove. Maybe one of the newest from my friends in high school. I didn’t Messhugah records, but then I’m leaving even know what I was doing; I’d be trying off Pantera… Oh, geez. I wanna throw in to learn Randy Rhodes solos as a begin- Aerosmith - Live!. I’d be happy with any ner [laughs]. Over the years, the balance combination of those. I would never not of time spent on either instrument was want to hear James Brown or Led Zeppelin again. pretty even.

Nightlife & Music

Outlier By Eugene Smith

Photography By Jim Batcho Texan songwriter Anthony Garcia delivers an entirely new sound with his latest hard-hitting album, Outlier. Garcia has supplanted his usual country sound with heavy distortion, wanton guitar solos and Bonham-esque drumming. His decision to embark on a more progressive rock direction was sufficiently summed up with the statement: “I just wanted to turn up the amp and rock out again.” Rest assured, he has fully accomplished that goal. Outlier seems to be the hypothetical result of Led Zeppelin recording their own Dark Side of the Moon. Filled with anthemic harmonies, epic choruses and vivid guitar solos that would make Jimmy Page’s mouth water, Outlier immediately hits you with its opener and proceeds to zigzag from pounding rock to melodic ballads. Garcia’s impressive array of influences—which include Mew, Townes Van Zandt and Black Sabbath—have all had their own significant impact on the new release. Outlier is the name of both the album and of Garcia’s new group, consisting of Melanie Lenau on fiddle, Andrew Kiely on drums and Kurtis Blo on bass. The name was taken from a painting by local artist and vocalist Kelsey Smith. The album cover simply outlines the state of Texas with a star on Lubbock, the town in which Garcia grew up. (In fact, the drums were recorded in Garcia’s local studio back home with the rest of the album recorded in South Korea, where the band has just come off their month-long tour of the country promoting the record.) The album is simply a must-have for anyone who is already fond of these local talents. Outlier play frequently throughout Busan and the album can be heard on their website, 2013 summer_ 49

Hotel Directory & News

Hotel Events and News

Whether you are looking for a comfortable place to lay your head, somewhere to enjoy a good meal or throw back a few cocktails, here’s what’s happening at some of our favorite local hotels.

Park Hyatt Busan

51, Marine City 1-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan ph. 051-990-1234

Specializing in homemade French pastries, chocolates, pralines, savouries and sandwiches, Patisserie, the hotel’s first floor pastry boutique, offers a stunning array of made-to-order creations from Europe and Asia. Open daily from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m.

Westin Chosun

67, Dongbaek-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan ph. 051-749-7000 web.

The hotel’s Irish pub, O’Kim’s, offers a stunning view of the sea while offering patrons a discount on Heineken pints during their Happy Hour, which takes place from 5 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. daily through the end of June.

Lotte Hotel

772 Gayadae-ro, Jin-gu, Busan ph. 051-810-1000 web.

With three delicious flavors to choose from, including strawberry-paprika, melon-blueberry and banana-pineapple, enjoy a refreshing summer juice at The Lounge on the lobby floor of the Seomyeon landmark hotel through the end of June.

Paradise Hotel Hotel Nongshim

23, Geumganggongwon-ro 20 beon-gil, Dongnae-gu, Busan ph. 051-550-2100 web.

Enjoy a romantic evening at the hotel’s famous beer garden, which features traditional German beer made by their brewmaster and the chef’s barbecue of scrumptious sausages, seafood and meats. Open daily from 6 p.m. to 11 p.m. through the end of September. 50 HAPS_summer 2013

1408-5, Jung Dong, Haeundaegu, Busan ph. 051-742-2121 web.

Enjoy a cool taste of summer with some Snow Flower Bingsu, a unique twist on Korea’s traditional summer dessert at the hotel’s lobby lounge Crystal Garden until the end of June.

Accomodation Guide

Hotel Directory

Looking for a place to stay when visiting Busan? Find it with the Haps hotel directory, your local English guide to accomodation in the city. HAEUNDAE THE WESTIN CHOSUN tel: 82-51-749-7000 web: Do it right and crash in the same room George W. Bush did. PARADISE HOTEL tel: 82-51-742 2121 web: On the water, with a casino, excellent spa and a pool. SEACLOUD HOTEL tel: 82-51-933-1000 web: Luxury stay with great restaurants. Short walk to the beach. CENTUM HOTEL tel: 82-51-720-9000 web: Near Shinsegae and BEXCO. Good subway access. SUNSET HOTEL tel: 82-51-730-9900 web: Seventy-two rooms with, according to the site, “individual design concepts”. NOVOTEL AMBASSADOR tel: 82-51-743-1234 web: On the beach. Great ocean view, Murpii Nightclub. GRAND HOTEL tel: 82-51-740-0610 web: One of the cheaper spots on the strip, but still at the beach. GUNOH SEACLOUD HOTEL tel: 82-51-933-4300 web: Luxury stay with great restaurants. Short walk to the beach. HANWHA RESORT tel: 82-1588-2299 web: Beautiful views of Oryukdo, the bridge and close to the beach. PARK HYATT BUSAN tel: 82-51-990-1234 web: Five star quality hotel with stunning views and service.

SEOMYEON LOTTE HOTEL tel: 82-51-810-1000 web: Lotte runs a tight ship and it shows in the generous customer service here.

TOYOKO INN tel: 82-51-442-1045 web: Across from Migliore, comfortable, clean and affordable. CROWN HOTEL tel: 82-51-635-1241 web: Mid-range hotel decorated in Korean style, good for travellers.

GWANGALLI HOMERS HOTEL tel: 82-51-750-8000 web: Right on Gwangalli Beach amidst the myriad of cafes, bars and restaurants. AQUA PALACE tel: 82-51-756-0202 web: Beautiful view of the Diamond Bridge, right in the middle of the beach.

JUNG-GU COMMODORE HOTEL tel: 82-51-461-9703 web: Beautifully designed traditional hotel. Close proximity to Busan Station. BUSAN TOURIST HOTEL tel: 82-51-241-4301 web: Conveniently located next to the train station. Good for a cheap night’s rest. TOYOKO INN tel: 82-51-442-1045 web: Affordably priced hotel, clean and 10 minutes away from the train station. PHOENIX HOTEL tel: 82-51-245-8061 web: Highly trained staff, close to Nampodong. Popular with Japanese tourists. ELYSEE HOTEL tel: 82-51-241-4008 web: Affordable hotel with good amenities. Close to Nampo-dong.

BUSAN STATION GUKJE HOTEL tel: 82-51-642-1330 web: About 3 km away from the train station, close to Citizen’s Hall. TOYOKO INN tel: 82-51-442-1045 web:

The second location, this one is a minute away from the train station.

OTHER AREAS PARAGON HOTEL [Sasang-gu] tel: 82-51-328-2001 web: Business comfort, with close proximity to Gimhae International Airport.

HI KOREA HOSTEL tel: 070-4409-3132 web: email: Your home away from home, Hi Korea Hostel offers you an affordable and comfortable accommodation just a stone’s throw away from Haeundae Beach.

BUSAN CENTRAL HOTEL [Yeonsan-dong] tel: 82-51- 866-6225 web: Adjacent to Yeonsan rotary, located 10 minutes away from City Hall. HOTEL NONG SHIM [Oncheonjeong] tel: 82-51-550-2100 web: Great area around the hotel. Head north to PNU for original Busan nightlife.

BUDGET BUSAN YOUTH HOSTEL ARPINA [Haeundae] tel: 82-51-731-9800 web: Opened in 2004, a cheap place to stay for the night. Culture center inside. GOODSTAY THE PLANET GUESTHOUSE [Haeundae] tel: 010-2780-6350 web: Women-only dormitory across from Haeundae Beach in the Crystal Beach Office Tel. INDY HOUSE [Kyungsung Uni] tel: 82-70-8615-6442 Super cheap, dorm-style room right in the heart of Kyungsung. MARUB GUEST HOUSE [Haeundae] tel: 010-6322-3194 web: Well-placed near restaurants, commercial area in Haeundae. POBI GUEST HOUSE [Haeundae] tel: 051-746-7990 web: Renovated guest houses three minutes from Haeundae Beach. SUM GUEST HOUSE tel: 070-8837-0700 web: Renovated in 2011, they guarantee guests a pleasant stay whether in Busan for business or pleasure. HELLO GUEST HOUSE [Haeundae] tel: 051-746-8590 web: Friendly, clean and cozy atmosphere. Outdoor patio for your enjoyment. 2013 summer_ 51

Nightlife & Dining Directory

GWANGALLI BEACH BIKINI [Lounge/Beer Bar] Spacious club with dancing and such. BEACHED CAFE AND SPORTS BAR [Kiwi Sports Bar] open: 6pm - late tel: 051-924-9662 web: beached-cafe-sports-bar Recently renovated, this Kiwi-run sports bar has gained a huge expat following in the second year of existence for its spectacular bridge view, delicious menu and its wide array of Kiwi beer, the only place in the city to boast such a claim. Rugby is the sport of choice on the TV for the punters. BELLA CITTA [Italian] tel: 051-711-0010 web: Italian restaurant with an incredible interior, top notch menu and indoor garden seating. BURGER AND PASTA [International] open: 11am - 2am tel: 051-751-6631 web: The second of the Burger and Pasta shops around the city, this international eatery offers a great view of the bridge while you enjoy your day on the sand. Burgers, pasta and brunch are on the menu in the stylishly decorated restaurant in the middle of the main drag of Gwangalli Beach. FOUR SEASONS [Raw Fish Korean] English speaking owner, 2nd fl. Fish Market. FUZZY NAVEL- MILLAK [Food/Bar] open: 11am - 6am tel: 051-754-6349 web: It has fabulous views of Gwangalli Beach. Facing the Diamond Bridge, come enjoy a drink and some tacos on our patio. Great staff serve fresh made Mexican cuisine and will mix up your favorite cocktail. FUZZY NAVEL- GWANGALLI [Bar] open: 7pm - 6am web: Located on the ground floor, offering a great view of the beach and bridge. Friendly staff serve excellent cocktails at the vintage-looking bar. Make sure you take advantage of the outside seating in the summertime. GALMEGI BREWING CO. [Craft Brew Pub] open: Mon - Fri 6-12am, Sat 2pm-2am, Sun 2pm-12am tel: 010-4469-9658 52 HAPS_summer 2013

fb: galmegi.brewing Galmegi Brewing Co. is Busan’s first craft brew pub right on Gwangan Beach. All of our beer is handcrafted here in Korea using fresh mountain stream water, German barley, American hops, and imported yeast strains from around the world. On Tap This Summer: Hefeweizen, Amber Ale, Rye Pale Ale, IPA, Porter, & Raspberry Wheat. SAIGON PHO [Vietnamese] tel: 051-755-4205 Has been serving up Phở, the Vietnamese noodle soup since 1997. One of the few non-chain Vietnamese spots in town. Look for the big yellow sign, across the street from the Starbucks. SHARKY’S [American Sports Bar] open: 6pm weekdays, 2pm weekends tel: 010-4038-2907 web: sharkys-bar Sharky’s brings “California cool” to Gwangalli this summer, as the newest Sharky’s opened to great reviews and a killer view of the bridge. Indulge in their ever-expanding menu while enjoying a cocktail in a cool, comfortable environment. Great deals on dinner specials nightly, and they have the best shuffleboard table in town. THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] open: 6pm - late web: thursday-party A summer staple on Gwanganlli Beach for the past couple of summers, Thursday Party has two locations situated next to each other on the east side of the beach. Both bars are similar to the Thursday Party city-wide theme, and offer a variety of American style pub grub to tempt your palate. WA BAR [Beer Bar] Wide selection of beer laid out for your choosing.

HAEUNDAE AN GA [Korean] tel: 051-742-7852 Very popular bbq meat restaurant in Haeundae. BILLIE JEAN [Lounge/Live Music] tel: 051-742-0297 web: billiejean A Haps favorite. Great decor. Ladies drink for free Thursday nights. BURGER AND PASTA [International] open: 11am - 2am web: Recently opened, this Western/ Korean fusion style restaurant has been packing them in since day one. Burgers, pasta and brunch are on the

menu in the stylishly decorated restaurant, where you can also imbibe yourself to a glass of wine, a cocktail or beer after your day on the beach. CHEOLMA HANWOO BULGOGI [Korean] tel: 051-709-4000 Bulgogi done at its best. CINE DE CHEF [Italian] tel: 051-745-2880 In Shinsegae, enjoy a good meal and a movie. CLUB ELUNE [Nightclub] Busan’s super club. A must see at least once. EL OLIVE [Italian] tel: 051-752-7300 Delicious Italian, close to Costco. FUZZY NAVEL [Food/Bar] open: 11am - 6am tel: 051-746-6439 web: Great location set on two floors near the beach, other bars, and clubs. Amazing Mexican food is served from lunchtime until the early hours of the morning. Friendly staff and outside seating makes Fuzzy Navel a place to hit when the weather is good. GANGA [Indian] Expect to pay some good money, but it’s worth it. GECKOS [Pub] Beach front bar. Consistently good food. GEN SUSHI [Japanese] tel: 051-740-6630 Affordable sushi. Good stuff. HELLO THAI [Thai] tel: 051-731-5033 Good Thai food in the heart of Haeundae. MERCADO [Brazilian Steakhouse] open: 11:30 a.m. - 24:00 tel: 051-744-8807 web: An authentic southern Brazilian Churrascaria, Mercado is the perfect dining experience for family and friends. With eight choices of prime meat seasoned with Brazilian spices charcoaled and grilled to perfection, salads and Brazilian rice, this unique dining experience is like no other in the city. LOVING HUT [Vegetarian] tel: 051-747-2979 web: All organic, all good. Veggie paradise. MAKTUM [Nightclub] If Elune is packed, head to Maktum. MARIS [Buffet] tel: 051-704-8870 Great seafood buffet. Across from Primus in Jangsan. MURPII [Nightclub] In the Novotel. Dancing, drinking,

MY TABLE [Cafe] open: 11 am - 10:30 p.m. tel: 051-744-8989 web: My Table is a great little spot in Marine City that offers excellent coffee and great food to go along with it, including several organic offerings, excellent sandwiches, great yogurts, the popular pumpkin soup or the sea mustard noodles. Make sure to check out the tiramisu made with 100% mascarpone. NAMASTE [Indian] tel: 051-746-1946 Indian fine dining. Good prices and great food. PHO KIM [Vietnamese] tel: 051-740-4868 Good food at a good price. Great soup, located in SFUNZ. SHARKY’S [American Sports Bar] open: 6pm weekdays, 2pm weekends tel: 010-4038-2907 web: sharkys-bar This San Diego-inspired bar has become a fixture of Haeundae Beach renowned for its Big Boy Burgers, Authentic Mexican and Killer Steaks. It’s a comfortable and unpretentious atmosphere that is family friendly but still caters to business travelers and locals. Located on the second floor of the Pale de CZ (right next to Paradise Hotel). It’s hard to find but worth it if you do! SUNTORY [Japanese] Food and drink in a classy setting. Bonzai! TAP AND TAPAS [Spanish] open: 3pm-5am tel: 051-746-6318 web: Recently opened, Tap and Tapas serves up high quality, well-presented Spanish cuisine in a striking new setting in Haeundae. With an extensive menu of upscale cocktails and a tap room, it’s a great place to meet for an informal meeting, or out for a night on the town to impress. T.G.I. FRIDAY’S [Chain] tel: 051-740-6531 Good reliable chain in the Harbor Town Building. THE WOLFHOUND PUB [Irish Pub] open: 6pm - 2am weekdays, 11am - 2am weekends tel: 051-746-7940 web: No city in the world would be complete without an Irish pub, and the Wolf is Busan’s homage to Dublin. Wooden table seating with subtle lighting make this pub a relaxed place to grab a drink, watch some rugby and grab some sumptuous in-

Dining & Food



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MARINE CITY RESTAURANTS 02 Kraze Burger 03 Hello Sushi 04 The Pan 05 Hyatt Dining Room CAFES 01 My Table Cafe 02 Tom n Toms 03 Starbucks 04 Caffe Benne


01 Bus Depot


BMW 02 Dealership 02

Haeundae Aquarium


HAEUNDAE CLUBS 01 Murphii 02 Elune 03 Maktum BARS/PUBS/LOUNGES 01 Thursday Party 02 Miami 88 03 Wolfhound 04 Rock n’ Roll 05 Fuzzy Navel 06 U2 08 Sector 510 09 Gecko’s 10 Sharky’s 11 Billie Jean 12 Tap and Tapas 12 TBR RESTAURANTS 01 TGI Friday’s 01 Mad For Garlic 01 Ganga 02 Hello Thai 03 Namaste 04 Loving Hut CAFES 01 Coffine Gurunaru 02 Angel-In-Us 03 Angel-In-Us 04 Starbucks 05 Caffe Bene


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ALMOST FAMOUS [Dance/Techno] Funky atmosphere, great staff. AUSSIE BURGER [International] Burgers, fries and Aussie pies. AYUTA [Indian] Friendly staff, good food. BEIJING GO-CHI [Chinese] Great skewers, great food, cheap prices. BLUE MONKEY [Dance/Hip Hop] open: 7pm to late tel. 051-611-2888 web: blue-monkey With its illuminative and decorative style, Blue Monkey has impressive DJ sets on the weekend, and doubles as more of a lounge-style chill vibe during the weekdays. BON BON [Italian] tel: 051-621-0906 Great little spot next to Kyungsung U. BURGER AND PASTA [International] open: 11am - 11pm tel: 051-625-6651 web: burger-pasta With three locations around Busan, Burger and Pasta offer a solid menu, and reasonable prices that make them a hit with young Koreans and expats. Set in the traditional Thursday Party wooden decor, they offer pasta, burgers and a brunch with a small patio to enjoy the street catwalk on sunny days. CAFE RADIO [Cafe] Great atmosphere. Relax with a book. EVA’S TICKET [Western/Sports] Eva and the HQ fellas new super bar offer tons of things to keep you occupied.




Haeundae Tourist Office

Haeundae Subway & Train Stn

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Harbour Town

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ternational cuisine. The “No Bullshit Pour” policy is a good indicator for the strength of their drinks. THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] tel: 051-744-6621 open: 6pm - late web: thursday-party A staple of the Busan landscape, Thursday Party Haeundae offers a casual, yet comfortable option after a day at the beach. With a patio for outdoor sitting, this open-aired spacious pub brings the usual quality service the locals and expats have come to expect from the Thursday Party empire. U2 BAR [Lounge] Great place to chill, awesome service, a Haeundae institution. VAN GOGH TERRACE [Italian] tel: 051-741-3767 Nice view of the water while you eat.



Daewoo Marina 1 Cha Haeb yun R


Sun Plaza Zenith Towers Zenith Square

WooShin Golden Suite

03 Marina Center

Bene City


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Nightlife & Dining Directory

FULLY BOOKED [Cafe/Bar] open: Tues-Thurs 7pm - 12am, Fri 7pm 1am, Sat 2pm - 2am, Sun 2pm - 12am tel. 070-8170-9628 web: We are Busan’s first boutique bar run by expats. We serve great beer and wine at reasonable prices. We also serve 3 kinds of fresh panini: Caprese, Chicken Pesto, and Cuban Dijon. Furthermore, we provide a non-smoking environment for you to peruse our used-books or enjoy one of our many board games.

cians in town. PAINTED CHAIR CAFE [Cafe/Gallery] The art, the atmosphere. Good place to chill. SHABANA [Indian] tel: 051-621-4821 Good, affordable Indian food. THE SUSHI [Japanese] tel: 051-611-4043 Affordable, quality Japanese food. THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] open: 6pm - late web: thursday-party2 With ten Thursday Party’s around the city, it has become a staple for the young, hip Korean university crowd and expats alike. Beer pong, sports on TV and the free curry popcorn or salted spaghetti sticks are always in play, as is a busy crowd almost every evening of the week. VINYL UNDERGROUND [Nightclub/Event Bar] Vinyl Underground is known as the spot for live music in the Kyungsung area.


O’TACO [Mexican] open: 11 a.m. - 10 p.m. daily tel: 051-627-8358 web: Kyungsung’s original Mexican restaurant, O’Taco, has become a staple for those looking to get their Mexican food fix. Using only the finest and freshest ingredients, this must-try eatery has indoor and patio seating, as well as a daily lunch special and extensive menu at affordable prices. Open daily. HQ BAR [American/Sports Bar] Under new ownership, but still expect the same HQ fun. KINO EYE [Dance Club] Dark atmosphere. Live music on occasion. MONK’S JAZZ CLUB [Jazz Club] Busan’s only jazz club. Tuesday nights are hot. OL’ 55 [Live Music/Event] tel: 051-627-5645 web: ol’55 Ol’55 is located in the heart of Kyungsung University and is noted for its Open Mic Wednesdays, which are known to host the best Korean and expat musi54 HAPS_summer 2013

CROSSROADS [Live Music/Pub] open: 7pm-late tel: 051-515-1181 web: crossroads A small, but atmospheric watering hole in PNU, Crossroads has been a Busan institution amongst the expats for years. FARMERS BURGERS [American/Korean Fusion] People rave about it. Nominated in Best Burger. INTERPLAY [Live Music/Event] Live music, hit or miss if you catch on a good night. LOVING HUT [Vegetarian] tel: 051-518-0115 MOO MONK [Live Music] Can catch some great Korean indie bands here. PHO [Vietnamese] Nice Vietnamese food in PNU. RED BOTTLE [Korean/Expat Bar] Good spot to get a drink, and play some darts. RISTORANTE [Italian] Great Italian fare at the Nongshim Hotel. SHABANA [Indian] tel: 051-517-1947 Nice Indian food for cheap. SOULTRANE [Comedy/Event/Rock] tel: 051-515-1181 web: soul-trane One of the oldest expat bars in the city, the once foreigner oriented Soultrane

nonetheless draws a healthy mix of locals, expats and tourists. THE BASEMENT [Korean/Expat Bar] web: basement One of the most popular bars in the area. Always a great time, and anchors the PNU scene.

SEOMYEON BUFFALO CHICKEN [Chicken] tel: 051-805-3512 Good chicken chain with several interesting sauces. BUONA OVEN PIZZA [Italian] tel: 051-904-8239 Nice, oven-baked pizza and spaghetti. CLUB FIX [Nightclub] tel: 051-905-5777 web: New super club. International DJs and dress code required. DIVISION 9 [Lounge] Pinball, darts, basketball, drinking and good fun. DRAGON DREAM (THE CAVE BAR) [Korean] tel: 051-646-5924 Very interesting decor with a nice selection of food. FOXY DANCE [Club] Dance club, usually packed on the weekend. FUZZY NAVEL- SEOMYEON I [Food/Bar] open: 5pm - 6am tel: 051-808-1007 web: Check out the newly refurbished bar offering a variety of entertainment including, soft darts, pool, and table soccer. Awesome DJs and a wide floor make this place to be at night. Also, new to Seomyeon, the same amazing Mexican food as served at the Haeundae Fuzzy Navel is prepared in our large renovated kitchen. FUZZY NAVEL- SEOMYEON Il [Bar] open: 5pm - 6am tel: 051-817-2242 web: On the ground floor with a sliding window for when the weather is good, an excellent mix of Koreans and foreigners makes this a good place to make new friends. A comfortable atmosphere, where you will be looked after by the friendly staff, who will even give you a fireshow if you are celebrating a special occasion. HANGOVER [Western Pub] open: 6 p.m. to 2 p.m. Tuesday - Sunday tel: 070-7789-5868 web: From the good folks that brought you the great Italian food at Vito’s, this

new eatery/bar located in the prime of Seomyeon brings delicious western food and fine tasting beer with its unique refrigeration system. You can also enjoy your food or drink on their spacious indoor deck away from the hustle and bustle of the streets. LOVING HUT [Vegetarian] tel: 051-808-7718 ROCK N’ ROLL BAR [Rock] A true dive. Good atmosphere and pool and darts. T.G.I. FRIDAY’S [Chain] tel: 051-805-3164 Two locations in Seomyeon to choose from. THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] open: 6pm - late tel: 051-818-6621 web: thursday-party-1 You can expect more of the same from the Seomyeon Thursday Party, which caters to a young, eclectic mix of Koreans and expats. Nestled amongst a slew of bars and restaurants behind Judie’s Taewha, Thursday Party stands out for their unique charm, quality service and hip atmosphere amongst the Korean cool. VITO [Italian] tel: 051-806-5868 web: Fashioned in the tradition of the small Italian trattoria, Vito brings back a taste of the old country.

NAMPO ARUN THAI [Thai] open: 11a.m. - 10 p.m. tel: 051-908-9085 web: The chefs at Arun Thai bring you succulently prepared authentic Thai dishes at very reasonable rates. This delightful restaurant, nestled on the second floor some 50m in the back alleyway next to KFC, is a great meeting place, whether for a light lunch or large-scale dinner in a stylish environment with friendly service. FARMERS BURGERS [International] Enjoy a quality, fresh-made burger and fries on the roof. KUHN [Asian] Hosts a variety of Southeast Asian dishes at good prices. THE PAN [Brunch] Nestled amongst a slew of outdoor terrace restaurants. THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] open: 6pm - late web: thursday-party-1 The Thursday Party Nampo store offers a slightly varied atmosphere

Dining & Food




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than the others around the city, though by no means is it less exciting. A slightly more mixed crowd of expats and young Koreans is to be expected, as well as the great service that TP has become renowned for.

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Bukyung University

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AMCHAM #4501, Trade Tower 159-1, Samsungdong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul tel: 02-564-2040




GWANGAN BARS/PUBS/LOUNGES 01 Paris 02 Beach Bikini 03 Thursday Party 04 Fuzzy Navel 05 Beached 06 Sharky’s 07 Galmegi Brewing RESTAURANTS 01 Burger n’ Pasta 02 Bella Citta 03 Blue Saigon CAFES 01 Tom n’ Toms 02 Twosome Place 03 Starbucks BUSINESS/OTHER 01 Kai Surf Shop 02 New Philadelphia Seaside Church KYUNGSUNG BARS/PUBS/LOUNGES 01 Almost Famous 02 Club Realize 03 HQ 04 Blue Monkey 06 Ho Bar 07 Thursday Party 08 New Foxy 09 Vinyl Underground 10 Ol’55 11 Fabric 12 Fully Booked 13 Monk RESTAURANTS 01 O’Taco 02 Burger & Pasta 03 Outback 04 Okkudak CAFES 01 Starbucks 02 Tom n’ Toms 03 Angel-In-Us 04 Angel-In-Us

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AIR BUSAN tel: 051-974-8686 web: ASIANA AIRLINES - DOMESTIC tel: 051-972-4004 web: ASIANA AIRLINES - INTERNATIONAL tel: 051-971-2626 web: CEBU PACIFIC AIR tel: 051-462-0686 web: JEJU AIR tel: 070-7420-1502 web: KOREAN AIR - INTERNATIONAL tel: 051-970-3227 web: LUFTHANSA tel: 02-2019 0180 web: KLM ROYAL DUTCH AIRLINES tel: 02-3483-1133 web:




NEW LITTLE INDIA [Indian] open: 11am- 10pm tel: 051-245-4127 web: Situated on the second floor in the heart of Nampodong, New Little India specializes in the finest authentic Indian cuisine. The elegantlystyled interior and superior service complements the remarkably fresh ingredients on their vast menu. A great destination for those looking to enjoy a fine meal at affordable prices and a quiet ambiance.


GS Gas Station

2013 summer_ 55

Services Directory web: An independent association of American and international businesses, the role of the American Chamber of Commerce is to promote business and trade between the United States and Korea. ECCK 102-2903 WBC The Palace 1523, Haeundae-gu tel: 051-959-9695 web: The European Chamber of Commerce aims to provide an effective network of business associates together with discussion forums and seminars on how to do business in Korea, as well as an array of social networking events.

EDUCATION FOREIGN SCHOOLS BUSAN FOREIGN SCHOOL 1366-3 Jwa-dong, Haeundae-gu tel: 051-747-7199 web: BUSAN JAPANESE SCHOOL 173-8 Millak-dong, Suyoung-gu tel: 051-753-4166 web: BUSAN OVERSEAS CHINESE KINDERGARTEN 548-1 Choryang-dong, Dong-gu tel: 051-468-2845 web: BUSAN INTERNATIONAL FOREIGN SCHOOL

798 Nae-ri, Gijang-eup, Gijang-gun tel: 051-742-3332 web:

TESOL TRAINING KOTESOL Email: Facebook: Busan-Gyeongnam KOTESOL Chapter TESOL ALLIANCE tel: 051-818-0502 web:

KOREAN LESSONS BUSAN FOUNDATION FOR INTERNATIONAL ACTIVITIES tel: 051-668-7900 web: email: KLIFF tel: 051-513-0131 web: email: PNU LANGUAGE EDUCATION CENTER tel: 051-510-1983 web: email: 56 HAPS_summer 2013



MEDICAL HEALTH CENTERS DONGNAE HEALTH CENTER 702-54, Myeongryun-2 dong, Dongnae-gu tel: 051-555-4000 HAEUNDAE HEALTH CENTER 1339, Jwa-2 dong, Haeundae-gu tel: 051-746-4000 JUNG-GU HEALTH CENTER 1 Ga 1, Daecheong-dong, Jung-gu tel: 051-600-4741


DONGEUI UNIVERSITY HOSPITAL 397-3, Bujeon-1 dong, Busanjin-gu

tel: 051-803-5430 GOOD SAMSUN HANBANG 1162-2, Jurye-dong, Sasang-gu tel: 051-325-0300

HOSPITALS BUK-GU/DONGNAE BUMIN HOSPITAL 380-4, Deokcheon 1-dong tel: 051-330-3000 web: DONG EUI MEDICAL CENTER San 45-1, Yangjeong 2-dong tel: 051-867-5101 web: DONGNAE BONG SENG HOSPITAL 766, Anlak 1-dong tel: 051-531-6000 web: DONGRAE WOORIDUL HOSPITAL 205-10, Nakmin-dong tel: 051-559-5000 web: INJE UNIVERSITY BUSAN PAIK HOSPITAL 1435, Jwa-dong tel: 051-890-6114

tel: 051-240-2400 web: PUSAN NATIONAL UNIVERSITY HOSPITAL 10, Ami-dong 1-ga tel: 051-254-0171 web:

SUYEONG BUSAN CENTUM HOSPITAL 1077-1, Gwangan 3-dong tel: 051-760-5000 web: BUSAN HANNAH WOMAN'S HOSPITAL 304, Namcheon-dong tel: 051-625-2300 web: GOOD GANGAN HOSPITAL 40-1, 41-9, Namcheon-dong tel: 051-625-0900 web:

HAEUNDAE HYOSUNG CITY HOSPITAL 1094-2, Jaesong 1-dong tel: 051-709-3000 web: INJE UNIV. HAEUNDAE PAIK HOSPITAL 1435, Jwa-dong tel: 051-797-0100 web:

JUNG-GU HAEYANG HOSPITAL 80-8 Jungang-dong 4-ga tel: 051-469-4456 web: MARYKNOLL MEDICAL CENTER 12, Daecheong-dong 4-ga tel: 051-465-8801 web:

NAM-GU BUSAN ST. MARY'S MEDICAL CENTER 538-41, Yongho 4-dong tel: 051-933-7114 web:


SANTA OPTICAL open: Daily 10 a.m ~ 9 : 30 p.m tel. 051-704-1771 A short distance from Jangsan station, Santa Optical offers almost every available option to make sure you get the best eyewear. Prescription eyeglasses, sunglasses, progressive lenses, transition lenses, RGP hard contact lenses and contact lenses are all available. Join us on Facebook and receive five percent off.



Business Club 12




Taewha 03 Judie’s Dept. Store 01




4 2 13

Jungkangdae Road

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Kayodae Road


Lotte Hotel & Seven Luck Casino


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. g Sub


BUSAN MUSEUM OF ART 40, Apec-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan tel: 051-740-2602

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3 1


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Daegaksa Temple


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Jalgalchi Fish Market


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NAMPO-DONG RESTAURANTS 01 Arun Thai 02 KFC 03 The Pan 04 The Pho 05 New Little India 06 Farmers Burgers 07 McDonalds CAFES 01 Caffe Bene 02 Starbucks 03 Angel-In-Us 04 Holly’s 05 The Cafe 06 Caffe Bene






SEOMYEON CLUBS 01 Fix 02 Foxy BARS/PUBS/LOUNGES 01 Rock n’ Roll 02 Spot 03 Thursday Party 04 Fuzzy Navel 05 Fuzzy Navel II 06 Hangover RESTAURANTS 01 Vito 02 TGI Friday’s CAFES 01 Angel-In-Us 02 Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 03 Twosome Place 04 Tom n’ Toms BUSINESS 01 Kangs Dental 02 Apple Store 03 St. Louis Dental

Dongcheon Road




REDEEMER INTERNATIONAL COMMUNITY CHURCH Minerva Hall, Pusan University of Foreign Studies tel: 010-8326-1985 web: Services: Sundays, 10:30 a.m. RICC is a close-knit community church that is committed to sharing the incredible good news of grace and forgiveness through Jesus Christ. RICC is developing a community of Christ followers from all nations. Visit any Sunday at 10:30 am or contact us for more info! www.redeemerbusan. org 010-8326-1985


Dongcheon Road

Cosmetic Surgery Street

GIFT MINISTRY Myung-nyun-dong, Dongnae-gu tel: 010-7999-8644 web: Services: Saturdays,10:30 a.m. HOSANNA CHURCH Myeongji-dong, #3245-5 Gangseo-gu, tel: 051-209-0191 web: Services: Sundays, 12:30 p.m.


Jungang Middle School

D City Dept Store

Sojeon Road

AL-FATIH MASJID MOSQUE Namsan-dong, #30-1 Guemjeong-gu tel: 051-518-9991 web: Services: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily


Sojeon Road



PIFF Squaure

Gukje Market

Restaurant Cafe



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Services Directory web: Opening Hours - 09:00 ~ 20:00 Closed - Jan. 1, Every First Monday Admission Fee - Free BUSAN MODERN HISTORY MUSEUM 104, Daechung-ro, Jung-gu, Busan tel: 051-253-3845 web: Opening Hours - 09:00 ~ 18:00 Closed - Jan.1, Every First Monday Admission Fee - Free BUSAN MUSEUM 63, UN Peace-ro, Nam-gu, Busan tel: 051-610-7111 web: Hours of operation - 09:00 ~ 20:00 Closed - Jan. 1, Every First Monday Admission fee - Free BUSAN UN MEMORIAL CEMETERY AND PARK 779, Daeyon 4 dong, Nam-gu, Busan tel: 051-625-0625 web: Hours of operation - 09:00 ~ 17:00 Open Year Round Admission fee - Free


FOUR LOCATIONS CENTUM CITY 1496, U Dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan tel: 051-730-2500 DONGNAE 502-3, Oncheonjeong, Dongnae-gu, Busan tel: 051-605-2500


GWANGBOK 20-1, 7 ga, Jung-ang Dong, Jung-gu, Busan tel: 051-678-2500

BUSAN BOWLING LEAGUE Contact: David Alderman tel: 010.7919.1223 Facebook Group: Busan Bowling League

SEOMYEON Bujeondong, Busan-jingu, Busan tel: 051-810-2500


HYUNDAI DEPT. STORE 62-5, Beomil-dong, Dong-gu, Busan tel: 051-667-2233 Open: 10:30 ~ 20:00 SHINSEGAE DEPT. STORE (CENTUM CITY) 1495 Wu-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan tel: 1588-1234 web: Open: 10:30 ~ 20:00

CLOTHING/SPORTS KAI SURF SHOP 183-11 Gwangan-dong, Suyeong-gu tel: 051-753-2746

BUSAN FRIENDSHIP GROUP ULTIMATE FRISBEE LEAGUE Email: BTC FOOTBALL FB Group: Busan Transportation Corporation Supporters Fanpage EPIK TEACHERS IN BUSAN Facebook Group: Busan EPIK EXPAT SAILING CLUB Contact: Mark Chi email: web:

LAOCHRA BUSAN GAELIC ATHLETIC ASSOCIATION CLUB Contact: Peter Bonner email: Facebook Group: Laochra Busan Members



Humetro Call Center Lost & Found Center

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Seomyeon Stn.

FAST FOOD MCDONALDS tel: 1600-5252 web: LOTTERIA tel: 1600-9999 web: BURGER KING No delivery web: KFC No delivery web:

PIZZA DOMINOS tel: 1577-3082 web: PAPA JOHN’S tel: 1577-8080 web: PIZZA HUT tel: 1588-5588 web: MR. PIZZA tel: 1577-0077








Bar/Pub/Lounge Restaurant

04 d




Good Plus


08 02

PNU Main Gate


Busan Bank Pusan National Uni. Road

02 04 03 02


Geumjeong Ro







PNU Subway Stn

NEW PHILADELPHIA CHURCH Gwangalli Beach, Marine Building 8th fl Behind Twosome Place near Sharky’s tel: (051) 932-6832 or (010) 2970-5594 web: Service: Sunday, 2:30 pm New Philadelphia is a diverse community of believers who love Jesus Christ and love people. Our church is full of people who live by faith and we are committed to helping individuals reach their full potential and experience the perfect will of God for their lives!

PNU BARS/PUBS/LOUNGES 01 Thirsty Moose 02 Wa Bar 03 Basement 04 Crossroads 04 Soultrane 05 Red Bottle 06 Interplay 07 Moo Monk 08 Bling RESTAURANTS 01 Won Chon 02 The Box 03 Tajmahal CAFES 01 Angel-In-Us 02 Charlie Brown 03 Twosome Place 04 Starbucks 05 Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf


ong Roa



Bar/Pub/Lounge Restaurant Cafe

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The Last Word

Tharp On:

America By Chris

Tharp Illustration By Michael Roy

Whether you love Americans, hate Americans or could care less either way, it’s not always easy being born of the red, white and blue. The other night I was sitting at home, listening to some old cuts of recentlydeparted country legend George Jones. There I was, steeping in whisky and soaking in his honey-dripped honkytonk croon, when suddenly a realization slapped me upside my sweaty, sentimental head: I am an American. That’s right— I’m an earnest, red-blooded, optimistic, two-fisted, indoor voice-challenged, tap dancin’ Yankee Doodle Dandy. Yee-haw! I was lucky enough to be born into that big, complicated, hullabaloo of a nation: 300 million of us and growing—and that’s not even counting the Mexicans. I sometimes forget about my nationality; living for nearly a decade in a kind of self-imposed exile can do that. I am now part of a truly international community, and my attachments to home—both literal and figurative—lessen each day. Am I proud to be an American? No, but I can’t say that I’m ashamed either. Like many folks who spend time abroad, I’ve come to believe that people should be judged on personality and actions, rather than which side of the border they happened to be on whilst passing through their mother’s vagina. But I am an American, and this is how many people see me—whether I like it or not. And I know this may come as a surprise to some of you, but there are people out there who love America— 60 HAPS_summer 2013

especially Korean men over the age of 60. They’re old enough remember the war, and often hold a modicum of gratitude toward good ol’ Uncle Sam. When hearing that I’m from the States, many of these friendly geezers smile, slap my back, and shout, “USA very good!” before asking me to come over and give their grandkids free English lessons. An American buddy was once riding in a cab and when the ancient driver found out he was from America, he stopped the car, shook my friend’s hand and said: “Korea-America! Friends! Hiroshima! BOOM! Thank you!”

humanity despise us, it makes us incredibly sad. We think: So what if we’ve been a bit loose with the bombings and preemptive invasions of nations that posed no real threat to us? That’s just tough love. We’re actually really, really nice. Come visit if you don’t believe us! We’ll bake you a pie! We Americans have a reputation for being idiots, which I’ve always found disheartening and unfair. I try my best to disprove this prejudice (when sober enough), sometimes with good effect. Many times I’ve been abroad, talking with some European dude over a few beers,

I am an American. That’s right—I’m an earnest, red-blooded, optimistic, two-fisted, indoor voice-challenged, tap dancin’ Yankee Doodle Dandy. Yee-haw! That’s right. My friend was personally thanked for the nuking of Japan. I guess this is just one of the many perks of holding the navy blue passport. Of course America’s image isn’t what it used to be, though I’m not convinced that it was ever so great, contrary to what they teach us at home. After all, we Americans are like slobbery, dumb dogs who just want to be loved the world over. We are actually quite needy and insecure. When we learn that, in truth, large chunks of

only to hear him confesses: “You’re pretty smart for an American!” For an American. What kind of backhanded compliment is that? Who did he expect, Yosemite Sam? That’s like saying, “You’re really pretty for a burn victim. Your nose may avalanche straight into your chin like a melted ice cream cone, but your eyes have a real sparkle!” Other times I’ve encountered utter contempt when foreigners discovered my nationality, including an incredibly rude


Belgian couple who blamed me for both Gulf Wars. I tried to win their favor: “I voted against Bush! Twice!” But they were deaf to my pleas. Fair enough, but it does beg the question: If I am to be held responsible for America’s sins, then I can take credit for its virtues, right? So, let me take this opportunity to personally apologize for both Iraq and Vietnam… On the other hand, the Internet, jazz and the polio vaccine? That was all me, baby. I’m heading home for a visit soon, my first in two years; the blubbery embrace of the motherland beckons, and I shall heed her call. But despite her glorious wonder, every time I go back to America I feel more and more like a square peg. The absurdity of the place keeps amplifying upon itself—from the moronic TV ads heralding the arrival of Chili’s “Honey Bacon Cheezies”™, to the squawking, bloviating blowhards dishing out their daily dose of senior citizen fear porn on Fox News. Last time I was home I rode on the Greyhound Bus—or as I like to call it, White Trash Airlines—and I was absolutely sure that I was the only male on the coach who wasn’t on parole. In American, this is considered normal. Who, besides a convicted felon, would ride the bus? But home is home, and I’ll soak it up for all its worth: I’ll eat huge sandwiches on real bread and wash them down with thick microbrews that don’t cost eight bucks a bottle; I’ll marvel at the wide open spaces—the mountains, rivers and forests—and appreciate the fact that I can get out and do something without 10 thousand other people having the exact same idea; I’ll breathe in the sweet pine air and bask in the summer sun; I’ll laugh with friends and put my arm around my family, soothed by the healing balm that is blood on blood; and on the Fourth of July, I’ll eat grilled burgers, get good and drunk, and set the sky afire with Chinese-made explosives. Why? Because I’m an American, damn it, and blowing stuff up is my God-given right. 2013 summer_ 61

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2013 summer_ 63

Haps magazine issue 25  

The magazine for what's happening in Korea.

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