Busan Haps Magazine Issue 29

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Japanese Castles in Korea | 22 Hollaback!, Korea | 24 Art in Busan | 26


Events: The Big Five | 12 The Haps: Word on the Street | 14 News: In the News | 16 Material World | 18 Fashion: Style Files | 20 Tharp On: School | 54


The Lotte Revolt | 32


A Malaysian Karaoke Odyssey | 34 The Big Catch | 36


For the Dogs | 36 TEDx Youth in Busan | 37


Bubbly Best | 40 Review: 11 Chesterfield Way | 41

MUSIC & NIGHTLIFE Vacation Soundtrack | 42 K-pop Corner: Wax | 43

DIRECTORY/GUIDES Hotel News & Directory | 44 Directory | 46-52 Busan Metro Map | 52 Area Maps | 46-53


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Busan’s wide range of galleries offer an everchanging collection of fine art from both national and internationally renowned artists.



his has been a great winter. While normally I find it an oxymoron to combine the words “great” and “winter” together, this one truly has. Looking out my window, I can see the ocean and hear it calling me to come down for a swim. Perhaps the best part about this unusually warm winter is that it’s almost over! Granted, there is still a ways to go, but before you know it, the flowers will be blooming, the trees will be leafing (or whatever you call it) and the migrating birds that haven’t contracted bird flu, will soon be returning to roost. On more Haps-related things, we’ve put together another solid issue covering all sorts of things going on in the ROK. James Turnbull departs from his usual style and instead pens a profile on Hollaback! Korea, a dedicated group of men and women, expats and Koreans, fighting against the problem of sexual harassment in public. Michael Fraiman is back with a great piece about his time in Malaysia; Music man Seth Fellenz writes about music in Thailand, and we’re happy to welcome back the recently returned Anthony Velasquez, our resident wine expert, who has put together a nice piece about champagne. I myself teamed up with local photographer Jens Walter for an interesting look Japanese castles in Korea—remnants of the seven-year Imjin War that took place at the end of the 16th century. There are a total of 35 such structures in varied states all around the southern part of the peninsula. Christy Swain, as always serves up some interesting bits and pieces from the fashion world, and culture editor Jen Sotham returns to the pages of Haps writing about great food being served up out at the Busan Abandoned Pet Sanctuary. No, don’t even think it! Thanks to all involved for making this another great issue.

ON THE COVER This issues Haps takes a look at some of the many art galleries around the city which feature great collections from here and abroad. Cover image courtesy of Goeun Museum of Photography.


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Take a stroll through history with a look at some historical remains left from the Japanese occupation.


George Son (left) with his father Dr. Son Jae-lim

NAME: George Son OCCUPATION: CEO of Son Hospital Group HOMETOWN: Yeongcheon WHAT IS A PLACE YOU WOULD RECOMMEND TO PEOPLE VISITING KOREA FOR THE FIRST TIME? Though I now live in Busan, I would recommend visiting my hometown Yeongcheon (영천), since there are lot of fun things to do there. To name a few, there is horseback riding, wine tasting at local wineries and at night, there is a great observatory open to the public where you can go check out the night sky full of stars. WHERE IS YOUR FAVORITE PLACE TO EAT IN BUSAN THAT PEOPLE MAY NOT KNOW ABOUT? Cho Won fugu fish soup (초원복국) located in Daeyeon-dong, Nam-gu. They serve good food and have great service for reasonable prices of around 10,000 won. I really think people that visit there will enjoy it a lot. WHERE IS THE BEST PLACE TO ENJOY WINTER IN KOREA? The best place to enjoy winter would be Busan. Busan is slightly warmer than other places, which makes the travelling more comfortable than in any other places in Korea. In addition, there are a lot of tourist attractions in Busan. Exotic fish markets in Jagalchi (자갈치시장) for buying and trying out fresh sashimi, crabs and other freshly caught seafood are available for gourmets. For those who love to shop, Lotte department store is there also or they can also check out the large markets in Nampo-dong. CAN YOU RECOMMEND SOMEWHERE TO ENJOY THAT EXPATS MAY NOT HAVE DISCOVERED? My father and my wife are both doctors of Korean traditional medicine. So, I think its a great idea for expats in Korea to experience the benefits of traditional medicine while they are here. It’s a growing trend around the world so why not give it a try right here at the source.

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CONTRIBUTORS ANTHONY VELASQUEZ Anthony claims Steve Perry, lead singer of the band Journey, is the second most famous person ever to come out of Hanford, California. Who’s the first? This guy. “Don’t Stop Believin’.”

JEN SOTHAM Haps culture editor and food writer Jen hails from New York and has been eating her way through Busan since 2006. The first phrase she learned in Korean was chal-mo-gu-sum-ni-da.

HAL SWINDALL Hal is a California native who has been a vagabond professor around the orient since the ‘90s. He is interested in many aspects of Asian society and culture, and currently works at Busan National University.

JAMES TURNBULL Since coming to Korea in 2000, James has become widely known for his highly regarded blog The Grand Narrative where he examines gender issues. He lives in Busan with his wife and two daughters, Alice and Elizabeth.

SETH FELLENZ Haps music editor Seth Fellenz has moved from Wisconsin to Busan twice. When he’s not busy playing screen golf or grocery shopping, you can find him around town laughing at his own jokes, some of which are pretty funny.


Chris hails from Washington State and has lived in Busan for over six years. When not banging on a guitar or screaming into a microphone, he likes to write. If you buy him a drink, he’ll tell you all about the times he met Kurt Cobain, but you probably already know the story.

CHRISTY SWAIN A fashion-loving girl, this Kiwi would like to divide her time between Paris and Milan, but for now, she’ll settle for Busan, browsing the vintage stores of Seomyeon or the High St. in Nampo-dong.

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PUBLISHER Ju Shin-hye EDITOR IN CHIEF Bobby McGill SALES DIRECTOR Michael Schneider MANAGING EDITOR Jeff Liebsch COPY EDITING Christian Bergmeister

ART DIRECTOR Russell McConnell WEBMASTER Danny Himes

CULTURE EDITOR Jen Sotham FASHION EDITOR Christy Swain MUSIC EDITOR Seth Fellenz WRITERS: Chris Tharp James Turnbull Christy Swain Seth Fellenz Michael Fraiman Hal Swindall Anthony Velasquez Jeff Liebsch Bobby McGill Kim Sang-woo Jen Sotham Michael Flynn Jens Walter Brendan Lea

DESIGNERS: Kelvin Brassbridge II PHOTOGRAPHERS: Jens Walter Michael Fraiman Michael Flynn Jen Sotham ILLUSTRATORS: Michael Roy ACCOUNTS SERVICES Marie Sung TRANSLATION: Kim So-yeon Junnie Ahn

Follow us @busanhaps Busan Haps Magazine SUBMISSIONS BUSAN HAPS busanhaps@gmail.com Winter 2014 Issue 29 BUSINESS REGISTRATION ADVERTISING mikey.busanhaps@gmail.com NUMBER: 00001 FIRST PUBLICATION DATE: Sept, 2, 2009 OFFICE ADDRESS: Pale de CZ, 2-19, Jung Dong 1124-2, Haeundae-gu Busan, Republic of Korea

DISCLAIMER: The opinions in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher. Questions or comments: busanhaps@gmail.com ©2014 Busan Haps Magazine







Canadian singer-songwriter Avril Lavigne hits the peninsula as part of her “Avril Lavigne Tour” on February 19th at Olympic Hall in Seoul. With four US Billboard Top 10 albums, Lavigne has been a major force in the music industry since her debut in 2002 and has put out six number one songs, including “Complicated”, “Nobody’s Home” and “Girlfriend”. Tickets: 99,000 - 121,000 won, Venue: Seoul Olympic Hall, web: ticket.interpark.com

Korean idol group B1A4 mark their third year in the music industry with the release of their second studio album, “Who am I” by opening their 2014 “The Class” concert tour in Busan. Known by one of their nicknames “the countryside-ols”, it’s one of the only boy bands whose members all hail from outside the capital. Tickets: 99,000 won, Venue: KBS Hall, web: ticket.interpark.com

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Events & Culture

JEONGWOL DAEBORUM FIRE FESTIVAL FEBRUARY 14 Valentine’s Day gets double duty in the city this year with the annual Jeongwol Daeborum Fire Festivals which take place around the city. The 15th day of the first month of the Lunar New Year brings large bonfires around the city’s parks and beaches to wish for good health and fortune for 2014. Check out the Haps website for locations around the city to take part in this unique yearly ritual.










Multi-talented ballad singer K.will continues his first nationwide tour in two years before embarking on his tour of Japan with a February 15 show in Daegu and a week later in Busan. The 32-year-old solo artist rose to fame in 2006 following his hit “Dream” while also collecting three Billboard K-pop number one singles, including his 2013 hit “You Don’t Know Love.”

Busan Citizen’s Hall plays host to the Tony Award winning Broadway masterpiece Guys and Dolls for a three night run. The all-Korean cast has been given rave reviews for their adaptation of Frank Loesser’s classic musical, which tells the tale of a love story between a fly-by-night gambler who attempts to woo a Salvation Army missioner for a $1000 bet, and the loyalty between friends.

First performed by the Imperial Ballet at the Imperial Bolshoi Kamenny Theater in St. Petersburg, Russia, in 1877, the Korean National Ballet hosts two performances at the Busan Cultural Center of French choreographer Marius Petipa’s masterpiece La Bayadère, which tells the story of the bayadère Nikiya and the warrior Solor who have sworn eternal fidelity to one another.

LIFE PHOTO EXHIBITION THROUGH APRIL 12 A historical look at some of the greatest moments and people through the lens is on display until the 12th of April at the Busan Cultural Center in Daeyeon-dong. Over 130 photos, including moments of the Second World War, the Apollo moon landing and influential leaders from the past can be viewed daily at a cost of 12,000 won for adults and between 8,000 and 10,000 won for children under 18. The exhibition is open from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. with last admission at 7 p.m. For more information you can call (051) 6126619 or check out the website at www. seelife.co.kr 12 HAPS_winter 2014




CARNEVALE DI VENEZIA VENICE, ITALY, FEBRUARY 22 - MARCH 4 After Napoleon squashed this festival for nearly 200 years, this Old World-style party returned in 1979 where party-goers disguise themselves in 18th-century costumes in a spectacle that transports visitors to an age of opulence. Venice cloaks itself in a veil of mystery with costumed revelers soaking up the one-ofa-kind ambiance. www.carnevale.venezia.it

HOLI INDIA, MARCH 17 Celebrated on the day after the full moon in the month of Phalguna, the Holi Festival turns the streets of India into a battlefield of rainbow colors with everyone from the young to the old participating. Cities all over the region turn awash in color, from intimate celebrations at home to enormous street parties, as locals say goodbye to winter and welcome to spring. www.holifestival.org



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THE MIND WILL ALWAYS BE FREE EXHIBITION Local artist Gaby Berglund Cardenas has been invited to have her IV Solo Exhibition in Busan at Soohohrom Gallery with the theme “The Mind Will Always Be Free”. As in the past, the artist will show us an array of mediums from installations to engravings and mixed media paintings. Her new series has been inspired in human struggles around our universal right of freedom. Her aim is to promote social change as well to make the viewer participant in other realities. In 2013, the artist had the opportunity to show her work, among other places, at Koehnline Museum of Art in Illinois, the A.I.R. Gallery NYC, Soho20 Chelsea NYC as well as Sniff-out in Osaka, represented by NRoom Artspace. You can see the artist’s portfolio on Artslant.com. Exhibition dates: March 17-29, 2013 (Free entrance) Soohohrom Busan Gallery, A-611 Zenith Square, Marine City 051-744-8555 soohohrombs@naver.com Open: Mon-Fri : 10- 7 pm / Sat : 10 -5 pm




Workers may need to bundle up indoors as the city of Busan has enacted an energy savings program for public and private institutions to help curb the rising demand for energy consumption during the winter months. Public buildings have been instructed to keep indoor heating temperatures at 18’C until the end of February, while also limiting the use of personal heaters and outdoor lighting during peak hours. Private businesses are exempt from the program, however, a three million won fine will be imposed for any businesses who run their heating systems while keeping their doors open. Complaints from citizens are on the rise due to the strict regulations, but rising energy costs and a high volume of housing electricity usage have prompted the government to take the necessary actions.

“LG is in a crisis.” LG chairman Koo Bon-moo to a meeting of the company’s executives amid slagging TV sales and fiercer global smartphone competition.

“The North should take responsible steps for its past provocations instead of taking issue with our legitimate military exercises.” Kim Eui-do, spokesman for the MInistry of Unification

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after the government rejected North Korea’s call for the cancellation of joint South Korea-United States military exercises in February.

Community & Living

GIANTS RELEASE EXHIBITION SCHEDULE The boys of summer return in early March, as the Lotte Giants and Korean Baseball Organization gear up for the 2014 season. The Giants have six home games scheduled—March 11 and 12 versus Doosan, March 18 and 19 versus LG and March 22 and 23 versus Hanwha—for those looking to get an early look at this year’s squad. Expectations are once again high as the Giants resigned catcher Kang Min-ho as well as returning imports Shane Youman and Chris Oxspring. The Giants also acquired Venezuelan first baseman Luis Jiménez who played previously with the Seattle Mariners and the Hokkaido Nippon-Ham Fighters in Japan. All exhibition games will begin at 1 p.m. and admission is free. The regular season gets underway March 29th.

SHAMROCKS AND SHENANIGANS March 17 is just around the corner, which means it’s once again time for the annual drunkfest that the annual commemoration of Patron Saint Patrick has become. Some bars around the city deck out in green for the event, with the Basement in PNU and the Wolfhound in Haeundae being the places of choice to celebrate. For those up in the country’s capital, the Irish Association of Korea celebrates its 38th Saint Patrick’s Day with a parade in Cheonggyecheon. You can check out the days events on the Haps calendar at busanhaps.com. 2014 winter _ busanhaps.com 15

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DO YOU FEEL SAFE? A recent poll shows that a normally indifferent Korean citizenry is becoming increasingly concerned with the security situation on the peninsula. The growing worry is attributed to ongoing stability problems in North Korea as well as historical and territorial disputes with Korea’s neighbors. A phone survey, conducted by Gallup Korea was conducted on 1,000 adults from November 20th through the 26th. The results shows that 40.4 percent of those polled said that the current security environment on the peninsula is “serious” with 11.1 percent saying that it is “grave.” On the more optimistic side of things, 33 percent of respon-

dents said that security on the Korean peninsula is “normal”, while 10.3 percent felt that the security environment is “not serious.” Regarding the continuously delayed transfer of wartime operational control to Seoul from the U.S. military, 64.7 percent of Koreans believe the transfer would affect the security situation on the peninsula in the future. The poll was commissioned by the Ministry of Patriots and Veterans Affairs, with a margin of error of plus or minus 3.1 percentage points.

CYWORLD’S GLOBAL AMBITIONS SQUASHED Korean social network giant Cyworld has scrapped its three-year-old global services as of February 10th, as the once popular site continues to falter after failing to adapt to global standards. Cyworld’s problems have been mounting for years with a weak global expansion plan, a security breach which saw the information of its 35 million subscribers being leaked, but most importantly, failing to adapt a mobile application with the boom of the smartphone and tablet market, forcing a restructuring plan which has cut the number of employees in half. “As its failure and weakness mainly resulted from its slow adaptation to the mobile era, quick decision-making is the key to its restructuring,” a company spokesman said. As more Koreans have migrated to Facebook, Twitter or Instagram, the future of Cyworld remains bleak. Developed in 1999, Cyworld enjoyed enormous popularity domestically for years though its international operations failed to live up to high expectations. 16 HAPS_winter 2014

Korea & World News

SOUTH KOREAN TOURISM EXPECTED TO SLOW THIS YEAR Of the top 50 most visited destinations in the world over the past three years, Korea is the only one to experience double digit growth over the period. It’s been great for the economy, as the incoming tourism surge helped the country rack up a 25% increase in revenues from the year before. But experts look for the trend to start winding down with the influx of Chinese tourists expected to slow down, while the number of Japanese tourists has already taken a sizeable dip since October of last year. “This year’s growth is driven by Chinese tourists, who have remained the biggest contributor to the growth of the market. Although the currency situation has not been so friendly to them, many Chinese tourists came to Korea due to the charms they find in Korea,” an official added. Though charms might be part of the reason, many attribute the large increase in Chinese tourists to bitter Sino-Japanese territorial disputes of which Korea has been the beneficiary of Chinese tourists refusing to visit or spend money in Japan.

KOREANS TOP LIST OF FOREIGN CRIME IN THE PHILIPPINES 2013 saw the Philippine government increase funding to squash an increasing foreigner crime rate in the island nation. According to statistics released by the Bureau of Immigration, the number of foreign criminals and fugitives arrested in the Philippines reached 659 last year. A statement by Immigration Commissioner Siegfried Mison said that the number of foreign criminals arrested in the country climbed 40 percent with 80 additional arrests. Topping the list of foreign nationals nabbed were Koreans with 34 arrested on charges such as forgery, drug-related crimes and murder. The number of Koreans arrested were followed by 23 Chinese, 19 Americans, three Japanese and two Germans. 2014 winter _ busanhaps.com 17

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OLYMPUS STYLUS 1 The Olympus Stylus 1 is the priciest selection in the lot, but it has some great features that maybe make it worth your while to spend a little extra coin. The Stylus 1 comes equipped with excellent photo quality, as well as top-notch shooting performance. If you’re a fan of touch screen cameras, the Stylus 1 offers up the goods quite well in that department. The electronic viewfinder is also very nice, and its features and controls give users a full DSLR feel. On the downside, the Stylus 1 is better suited for photos than movies, and an external mic jack is noticeably absent from the design.

SAMSUNG NX300 The Samsung NX300 is a well-designed mirrorless compact that captures excellent images and offers integrated Wi-Fi for easy online photo sharing. A big step-up from the previous, and reportedly sluggish NX210 model, the NX-300 camera offers 3D capture at five megapixels. Some of the more substantive changes, are the inclusion of hybrid autofocus. The new generation has also doubled the clock speed of the image-processing system. The NX300 comes with Adobe Lightroom rather than a proprietary software package included in previous models.

CANON POWERSHOT ELPH 330 HS The Elph comes with built-in Wi-Fi technology which allows you to wirelessly transfer your images straight on to most SNS sites and you can easily upload to either iOS or Android. The compact camera offers 1080p full HD video with stereo sound and the ever-handy dedicated movie button. You can even zoom during video playback on HDTV via an HDMI output. The 12.1 megapixel, 24mm wide-angle lens comes with a CMOS sensor and is enhanced with a 10x optical image stabilized zoom. 18 HAPS_winter 2014

Gadgets & Gear

FUJIFILM X100S Don’t let its cool retro-styled exterior fool you, it’s a full-featured 16MP digital camera that was awarded a spot on PC Magazine’s Editor’s Choice list. The X100S comes with a fixed 23mm F2 lens and SLR-sized APS-C sensor. In layperson’s terms, that translates to outstanding image quality, while the ‘traditional’ dial-based handling and cutting edge optical/electronic ‘hybrid’ viewfinder give it all the more power to the punch. While not convenient for popping into your pocket, it’s compact enough to easily carry around and take fantastic shots when you’re out and about.

SONY CYBER-SHOT DSC-HX50V Sony’s Cyber-shot DSC-HX50V is the smallest, lightest camera that comes equipped with a 30x zoom. The DSC also comes with a wide assortment of shooting options, offering the user direct control over exposure compensation, as well as excellent photo and video quality for a camera its size. Another nice feature is the interface shoe that allows you attach a flash, a microphone, or an electronic viewfinder. If you like to shoot your photos in raw capture mode for the best after image manipulation, that is a feature sadly missing from the list of other goodies. 2014 winter _ busanhaps.com 19

H Guide

STYLE FILES BUSH IS BACK? American Apparel is known for pushing the boundaries of fashion; not only with their clothing (will we ever be able to forget the menstruating vagina print t-shirt??), but also in the way they choose to advertise. Past ad campaigns have caused international controversy with nudity, sexualized underage models, and pornesque poses. And yet, their latest New York window display has still shocked shoppers the world over. Mannequins displaying the latest lingerie range are also decked out in merkins (pubic wigs) of 1970’s proportions. American Apparel has responded to critics by claiming they are “a company that celebrates natural beauty… We created it to invite passers-by to explore the idea of what is ‘sexy’ and consider their comfort with the natural female form.” Call me cynical, but I think this might be more about “celebrating” viral marketing than “au-naturale” grooming choices. Source: USA Today

JEZEBEL: FEMINISTS OR MEAN GIRLS? Feminist site Jezebel took the war on photoshopping to a new (low) level, by offering a $10,000 “bounty” to anyone who could supply them with un-retouched images of Lena Dunham’s (writer, director and star of HBO’s “Girls”) Vogue photo shoot. Now some may say this is a triumph, to see a “real-sized” woman featured on a high-fashion bible such as Vogue. And in 2014, we all know about Photoshop now, right? But Jezebel was not fooled. Was this to fat-shame Dunham? Oh no! “This is about Vogue, and what Vogue decides to do with a specific woman who has very publicly stated that “she’s fine just the way she is, and the world needs to get on board with that,” claimed editor Jessica Cohen. However, when the original images were released by Jezebel, and it was obvious that only minor adjustments had been made, they were left to answer to hundreds of readers who demanded to know what the point of it all was. And, Dunham’s response? “I don’t understand why, photoshop or no, having a woman who is different than the typical Vogue cover girl, could be a bad thing”. Sources: Huffingtonpost, Jezebel

2014: YEAR OF THE MEGGINGS If you think leggings as pants is a fashion faux pas, then you’re probably not going to be a fan of this trend; leggings for men, “affectionately” known as: Meggings. Previously only seen on fashion runways and super heroes, meggings are set to go mainstream in 2014 according to Meggings Man clothing line founders, Adam Freck and Andrew Volk. Shoppers can choose from various colors and designs including basic black, faux leather, metallic, polka dots, camouflage and even American flag stars and stripes. It’s not the first time meggings have made an appearance—Givency debuted them on the catwalk in 2012. However, they were more of a suggestion, paired with shorts rather than a main event. Meggings differ from leggings in that they are specifically designed for men’s bodies, so hopefully that will spare the general public from a “moose knuckle” epidemic. Source: USA Today 20 HAPS_winter 2014

Out & About

SWOOBALICIOUS?! Most consumers are well aware that the beauty industry is not particularly ethical—there’s animal testing, photoshopping, and products that just don’t do what they say they will. For years we’ve been told to shave, wax, exfoliate, cleanse, tone, moisturize... and now there’s a new enemy we have to battle: boob sweat, a.k.a. Swoobs (sweaty boobs, get it?). That’s right, you know that awkward and embarrassing affliction you’ve been battling for years... right?! Well, your sleepless nights are over ladies, thanks to the creators of Bust Dust, Fresh Breasts, and Boobalicious Breast Deodorant. And guys, if you’re feeling left out, don’t worry you haven’t been forgotten: “Fresh Balls” is available for those times you feel less than fresh. Source: Telegraph

SPANX? NO, THANKS! If you’ve ever worn shapewear or Spanx (the number one brand in the U.S.), then you know they’re not the most comfortable item in your wardrobe… but that’s kinda the point right? For the uninitiated: shapewear is a super tight “body stocking” worn under clothes by men and women to smooth out any “lumps and bumps” a.k.a. love handles and muffin-tops. Experts have recently gone on record to say Spanx are not only uncomfortable, but they can actually damage your health, most significantly by compressing your organs, stomach, intestines, bowel, and colon. Side effects can include; acid reflux, heartburn, indigestion, shortness of breath and incontinence—and that’s just in the short term. If you’re unwilling to give up your spandex corset, just remember these words: “compressing your organs” and reach for a larger-sized skirt/shirt. Source: Bustle

RACIST BONDAGE CHAIR ROW Online culture magazine Buro 24/7 sparked controversy recently by publishing a feature on the editor-in-chief of art magazine Garage sitting on a “racist chair”. Russian-born socialite, galleryowner, and editor Dasha Zhukova, was photographed posing on a chair designed to look like a life-sized, half-naked, bound, black woman. The “artwork” is an almost identical homage to “Chair” by 60’s Pop Art sculptor Allen Jones, while the key difference is the ethnicity of the mannequins. Needless to say, massive outrage ensued and the photo was removed from the site… or so you’d think. They merely cropped the image so that only the legs and feet of the “chair” were visible. Zhukova explained, “This photograph, which has been published completely out of context, is of an artwork intended specifically as a commentary on gender and racial politics.” In an ironic twist, the original article was posted on January 20th, Martin Luther King Day. How’s that for context? Source: Fashionista 2014 winter _ busanhaps.com 21



Japanese Castles

In Korea

Story By Bobby

McGill & Jens Walter Photography By Jens Walter

The end of the 16th century saw one of East Asia’s most devastating invasions take place on Korean soil. It was a time of mass death and destruction. It was also a time when occupying Japanese forces sought to maintain what they had captured by erecting a series of fortresses and castles, remnants of which remain scattered across the southeast coast of the peninsula today. On the morning of May 23rd, 1592, at the order of Japanese general Toyotomi Hideyoshi, thousands of troops set sail from Tsushima aboard hundreds of ships for the port of Busan in what would be the first of two major invasions during the seven-year Imjin War. After being rebuffed on numerous diplomatic missions to seek free passage for his troops across the Korean peninsula into China, Hideyoshi elected instead to conquer both Joseon Dynasty Korea and Ming Dynasty China. His soldiers arrived in Busan just after sundown, following a day-long journey at sea. Armed with Portuguese firearm technology and troops battle-hardened by years of civil war, the Japanese quickly routed the bow and arrow-wielding Busan forces before beginning the long march towards Seoul. Three months later, Hideyoshi’s troops controlled the entire Korean peninsula from Busan to Pyongyang. Chinese forces soon entered the conflict, intent on protecting their suzerain status over Joseon. As Kenneth Swope writes in the Sungkyun Journal of East Asian Studies, Korean rulers of the era had little say as to how their fate would play out between the two warring powers. “At this point in 1593, the war entered a stalemate during which intrigues and negotiations failed to produce a settlement. As the suzerain of Joseon Korea, Ming China exercised tight control 22 HAPS_winter 2014

over the Koreans during the war. At the same time, Ming China negotiated bilaterally with Japan while often ignoring the wishes of the Korean government.” Along with inept Joseon policy which forbade local commanders from engaging a foreign invasion force until a higher ranking general, appointed by the king’s court in Seoul, arrived with a newly mobilized army, Joseon also suffered under the weight of internal dissent by Koreans known as Baekjeong (natives of the lowest social rank; similar to India’s “untouchables”). Baekjeong viewed the Japanese as liberators from the harsh Korean feudal system and took advantage of the sudden loss of domestic security by setting fire to government buildings—including those where status ledgers for Korean slaves had been held. Despite Korea’s overwhelming disadvantages, China was not going to allow Joseon to fall. Japan, following failed peace negotiations with the Ming Dynasty, invaded Korea for a second time in 1597. Hampered by the heroic efforts of Korean Admiral Yi Sun-shin, Japanese supply lines suffered heavily during the second campaign. With overwhelming numbers of Chinese troops pouring in from the north, the Japanese were forced to expand construction of fortresses across the peninsula in an effort to maintain what they had captured. Over the course of the war, a total of 35 castles were erected, either from scratch or from the remains of conquered Korean fortresses.

CLOCKWISE FROM THE TOP: 1. Busan Fortress is used as a playground for children these days. 2. Model of the Imrang Fortress at the Gijang Cultural Center. 3. Gupo Fortress is perhaps the most impressive remaining fortress, other than Gijang in Busan. 4. Imrang Fortress, Gijang County, the highest bastion, on the left side, with the frame of the last gate reaching the top.

According to Stephen Turnbull in his book Japanese Castles in Korea 1592-1598, Hideyoshi saw the castles, known as wajō in Japanese and waeseong in Korean, as a last ditch effort to maintain the Japanese presence on the peninsula. “The wajō line was essentially a response to the Chinese advance, and provided the last refuge for the occupying troops,” writes Turnbull. “The new fortresses may have had roles concerned with communications and harbour defence, but the principle underlying their creation was that of providing a final toehold on the Korean Peninsula.”

land style of the 16th and 17th century, with towering stone walls and a command tower perched on top. The Imrang Fortress was erected on a hill overlooking the beach and it included a lower residence area around the port, though little of that remains today. Much like the Imrang Fortress, there are still bits and pieces of these 16th century strongholds out there for those curious to witness a page out of the Korean peninsula’s past. To see the most well-preserved castle, head further north to Ulsan for a tour of Seosaengpo. Built by Japanese General Kato Kiyomasa in 1592-1593 during the initial stages of the Imjin War, many of the original walls still remain intact.

“The wajō line was essentially a response to the Chinese advance, and provided the last refuge for the occupying troops.”

REMNANTS OF THE PAST Of the 35 castles constructed by Japanese forces, little more than fragments remain of most. A great place to get an idea of the structures that once straddled the Korean coastal area is the Gijang Cultural Center just outside of Busan. There you can see a model of the Imrang Fortress, which stood on the eastern coast as the northernmost Japanese defensive post in what were a series of ten castles east of the Nakdong River in the Busan area. The castles built in Korea were similar to the Japanese main-

For more on Japanese castles in Korea, including an excellent interactive map, check out wajo.japanese-castle-explorer. com or japanese-castle-explorer.com. You can also see more photos of Japanese castle remnants on Jens Walter’s German language blog at osnabrueck.wordpress.com.

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Hollaback!, Korea Story By James


Sexual harassment is a problem that cannot be ignored. With the recent founding of a Korean chapter of the international group Hollaback!, women, and even men on the peninsula, have somewhere to turn for support. All too often women and girls around the it made me realize there were a significant are endless, at the heart of the group are world are sexually harassed on their way number of people that not only didn’t the stories of harassment collected on to work, on their way home, and even on care, but were actively involved in victim- its website (www.korea.ihollaback.org), their way to middle school. It’s a problem blaming too, and really putting the onus where victims can submit anonymously in Korea as well, with a 2010 survey find- on the person involved to have done either on the web or in realtime via the ing that four in ten Korean commuters something about it.” smartphone app. It is a crucial service, as experienced sexual harassment on public From there she set about making her vi- it allows victims to get immediate support transport. One of the four were men. sion for addressing the problem a reality. from members and access to resources at However, the days of simply putting up “This gave me the idea that we needed a time when friends, relatives, and authorwith it are over, with a number of organi- to have something like a safe subway ity figures may be indifferent or even hoszations now providing Koreans and ex- campaign, and I started trying to get tile to their speaking out—which can easpats alike with the support, tools, and re- friends interested in it...when I realized ily lead to a spiral of self-blame. sources to help raise awareness and fight that Hollaback! could provide the tools if Under Korean law, site moderators are back against their harassers. we provided the translations, then I real- required to blur the face of a harasser, but One such organization at the forefront of ized that I could have a much larger scale a police officer who participated in a disthe fight is Hollaback! Launched in 2005 project...and benefit from being connect- cussion at the Gwangju chapter’s launch in New York, Hollaback! is a photoblog ed to something international, and be- suggested that they are still important and grassroots initiative that as evidence (although the ofseeks to raise awareness about The dialogue around violence has totally transformed ficial stressed that authorities and combat street harassment in the last eight years. I think people talk about it so should always be contacted imby posting photographs and mediately). In addition, when much more, and I do think there are more people narrative accounts victim’s ensubmitters indicate where incounters with offenders. cidents take place they appear who are prepared to stop and say ‘This is wrong’. Chelle Mille, an expat living in across a map on the website, Korea, was inspired to start a Hollerback! ing able to network and learn about best which provides a way to inform both the Korea website this past December, after practices elsewhere.” public and authorities where harassment reading comments by Korean netizens Chelle applied to the main Hollaback! or- may be occurring more often. who were often quick to blame the vic- ganization to set up a Korean branch last One future goal, Chelle explained, “is to tims of sexual harassment. summer, and after being accepted began share the stories we gather with a really “I’d always been angered by news stories months of training with other members. effective lobby organization like the Koof harassment, both back home and after By the time of the official launch, Hol- rea Women’s Hotline, which could be subI arrived in Korea in 2006,” Chelle says, laback! Korea was composed of a mix of mitted in a joint report for the National “but at least I could assume that everyone Koreans and expats, differing genders, Police Agency to show where more action was outraged just like I was. But when Ko- sexual orientations and with chapters in and greater policing is needed.” reaBANG came along, a website that spe- several cities. Another future goal is doing increasingly cializes in translating netizen comments, While its activities and contributions localized activities. But it is important to 24 HAPS_winter 2014

Above: A call to action poster from Hollaback! Korea. Left: An organization member spreads the word on the streets of Seoul.

note that very little is necessarily unique about harassment in Korea—despite how it can appear to expats sometimes, whose own experience(s) may have involved an unfamiliar racial component. Jin, a Korean member of Hollaback! Korea, acknowledges that sometimes lax attitudes by Korean victims and the “just put up with it” attitude of her mother’s generation still prevail. But that’s not always the case with the new generation, says Jin. “Koreans get just as angry [as foreigners] at being told to take harassment as a compliment, and at light sentences for harassers and rapists just because they were drunk,” she says, adding, “at least half my Korean friends would directly confront a harasser, and I encourage readers to do the same.” Chelle says that this change in attitude can be seen at all levels of society. “The dialogue around violence has totally transformed in the last eight years. I think people talk about it so much more, and I do think there are more people who are prepared to stop and say ‘This is wrong’. I think there’s better police enforcement, and communication about the law with the public, in Korean and in English media.” This is backed by a major overhaul of sex-crimes laws in Korea last year, as well as a law change in 2007 that required police to forward all cases of domestic violence to a prosecutor (previously it was

at their own discretion), plus an October 2011 law that enabled the police to give restraining orders on the spot. This is not to deny that negative experiences with the police and legal system do still occur, nor that media reporting could still be improved. Much like the comment that sparked the Slutwalk movement, a July 2013 survey of South Gyeongsang Province police officers found that over half supported the view that women who wear revealing clothing are somehow culpable in any attacks, and in October the Seoul Shinmun reported that “Seoul Police found that the high rate of sex-related crimes in Gwanak-gu, Seoul, was due to the high numbers of single women living alone in the district”—another form of victim-blaming which Taylor, an expat in the area, found irresponsible at best. “Hollaback! Korea isn’t ‘just a women’s group’” he said, “and harassment isn’t just a ‘women’s issue.’ Really, what social issue is?” Taylor calls on men to get more involved. “I encourage men to join, and ask that if someone ever tells you about harassment they’ve experienced, please don’t second-guess him or her and try to play Devil’s Advocate for their harasser, or downplay their feelings. Remember, you weren’t there. Just listen, and be supportive.” Chelle asks that expat teachers also look for signs of harassment and take action. “If you see harassment occurring with

your students, but are uncomfortable or unable to confront it directly, please at least let victims know about our site. Let them know there is a place where they can share their story (in their language), and where people will listen and read it and support them.” In that vein, one of Hollaback! Korea’s main goals in 2014 is to work more with schools. “We want to host a workshop for high school students as a pilot for an outreach project, through which kids can learn about how they can be better bystanders, and what to do when their friends are making jokes or bullying somebody,” says Chelle. “Fortunately, there are already good anti-bullying programs in schools to tap into, with many inspiring young leaders.” What’s more, students’ enthusiastic response to the recent ‘How are you doing?’ movement—albeit generally blocked by school authorities—shows that a passion for social causes is there, despite the huge workload Korean students suffer from. For further information on how readers can help them, including the possibility of setting up a Busan chapter, and how to receive support if you’re a victim yourself, please visit the website at korea.ihollaback.org, the Facebook page @facebook.com/HollabackKorea or follow on Twitter @HollabackKorea. 2014 winter _ busanhaps.com 25


Where’s thou Art?

Though relatively unknown to most expats, Busan is a city rich in art galleries. From the large to the small, from the contemporary to the downright funky, there is something for just about any art lover’s taste.

Busan Museum of Art (Centum City)

The crown jewel of the Busan art scene, the 21,000 square foot multi-level museum first opened to the public in March of 1998 and offers both large and small exhibition halls, archives, educational rooms, and an outdoor sculpture park. The board of the Busan Museum of Art has been very active over the years in its efforts to facilitate global exchanges with an ongoing series of international exhibitions passing through its doors. One can only imagine the logistics involved for the current Jan Fabre exhibition (until Feb. 23) which features a small house-sized structure laid out right in the middle of the main hall. Visit them on the web at: art.busan.go.kr

Images courtesy of Busan Museum of Art 26 HAPS_winter 2014

2014 winter _ busanhaps.com 27

Goeun Museum of Photography (Haeundae)

With two locations in Haeundae, the Goeun Foundation has cemented its solid reputation for exhibiting great photographic art over the years with an expansive variety of exhibitions covering all imaginable genres of photography by both international and domestic photographers. Open to the public for free, the museum’s foundation is also dedicated to building a massive photographic archive, as well as discovering and supporting new, creative artists in the field of photography. Goeun also provides printed publications, education and academic seminars. Both locations were to take advantage of natural light condition to enhance the viewing of photos on exhibition. Visit them on the web at: www. goeunmuseum.org

Images courtesy of Goeun Museum of Photography 28 HAPS_winter 2014

Kim Jae Sun Gallery (Marine City) Over the last decade, the Kim Jae Sun gallery has organized over 200 exhibitions, displaying the works of both well-known artists and those up-and-coming artists looking to get their work out into the public eye. Kim Jae Sun is also highly active in the international art community, participating in countless national and international art fairs with the aim of introducing promising young Korean artists to international art lovers while also arranging collaborative events and exhibitions with art galleries across the globe. Most recently, they participated in the Art Palm Beach Fair in Palm Beach, Florida with nearly one hundred other galleries from around the globe. Visit them on the web at: www.kimjaesungallery.com (Korean only)

Images courtesy of Kim Jae Sun Gallery

2014 winter _ busanhaps.com 29

Soohohrom Busan Gallery (Marine City)

Soohohrom Busan Gallery, located at Zenith Square in Marine City, is another in the ongoing migration of galleries from the former gallery-rich Dalmaji Hill area, to the more easily accessible, and increasing wealthy Marine City area. Small but competitive, it focuses on contemporary art of various genres and presents new exhibitions every month. It covers a wide range of shows from great masters to rising young artists on both the domestic and overseas art scene. Currently, the gallery is featuring a special exhibition by local expat artist, Gaby Berglund Cardenas entitled “The Mind Will Always Be Free� which will feature an array of mediums from installations to engravings and mixed media paintings. Visit them on the web at: www.soohohrombs.com

Images courtesy of Soohohrom Gallery

30 HAPS_winter 2014

Gallery Lee & Bae (Dalmaji Hill) Gallery Lee & Bae first opened its doors in the scenic neighborhood of Dalmaji Hill in May, 2010 and has quickly become one of the most-talked about galleries in Busan. The gallery is run by Dr. Mi-Ae Bae, who brings an impressive resume, including a stint as a research professor at Southampton University in the U.K. as well as being a professor at Pusan National University. She has been collecting art for over 20 years, which led her to open her own gallery. There is never an absence of something new at Lee & Bae. Over the course of one year, there were 14 exhibitions featuring contemporary Korean and foreign artists such as David Gerstein, Min Jungki and Kim Tcshun-soo. Visit them on the web at: www.galleryleebae.com

Images courtesy of Gallery Lee & Bae

Haeundae Galleries

A day of walking around the Haeundae area serves up several great spots for lovers of art to enjoy.

GALLERY WOO Gallery Woo opened in 2006 in Marine City, but moved to the Grand Hotel in 2013. Japanese pop artist Mayuka Yamamoto and German painter Thitz both have works on display. 051-742-6596

GANA ART BUSAN The Busan branch of Seoul’s Gana Art Center opened on the fourth floor of the Novotel Ambassador Hotel in 2007 and additionally offers an incredible ocean view. 051-744-2020

LUSSO GALLERY The Lusso Gallery originally opened in Joongang-dong way back in 1983, but moved to its current location on the second floor of the Rodeo Outlet in Haeundae in 2008. 051-747-5511

OCEAN GALLERY Opened last May in Haeundae’s Ocean Tower, the gallery focuses on introducing local artists to the world, but Busanites can also see the works of international artists there. 051-740-5669

RADIUM ART CENTER Opened in the annex of the beachside Paradise Hotel last year, it currently displays ‘Ecole de Nice’ and ‘Moya in the Classics’. Admission is 12,000 won for adults. 051-744-1160

GALLERY MIGO Migodang, a popular antique gallery, and the parent company of Gallery Migo first opened its doors in Joongang-dong in 1970. Now it’s on Haeundae Beach at the Pale de Cz. 051-731-3444

GALLERY FINE Gallery Fine first opened as a Korean traditional painting gallery in Boomin-dong in 1999. Now it’s located in the Seacloud Hotel, which sits right on Haeundae Beach. 051-741-5867

GALLERY DATE Located in Pale de Cz, Gallery Date displays a wide range of genres by up and coming artists, international artists, and artists representing contemporary Korean art. 051-758-9845

TOYOTA PHOTO SPACE The Toyota Photo Space is another museum of photography in the Haeundae area. The gallery is located on the second floor of the Toyota Dealership near Haeundae Beach. 051-731-6200



The Lotte Revolt

By Kim


The Lotte Giants saw a 44% decrease in attendance last year with many fed up fans blaming the corporate owners. Baseball blogger Kim Sang-woo looks into the feasibility of a city councilman’s suggestion of adding a second team. Busan has often been referred to as the “Baseball Capital of Korea.” The legends, the stadium, the incidents, and, of course, the fans have all contributed to Busan baseball seeming somewhat exceptional. The local team, founded in 1975, is one of the three remaining charter franchises of the KBO. If you attended any of the great games seen at Sajik Stadium from 2008 to 2011 when the stands were bursting at the seams, you would be hard pressed to disagree that Busan bleeds baseball fever. But large drops in attendance – including a massive 44% decline in 2013, have some asking whether Busan can still wear the mantle. A lot of this revolves around the fans’ deep dislike of the Giants’ parent company, Lotte; so much so that some are even calling for the addition of a second pro team for Busan. In January of this year, Busan City Councilman Park Min-shik organized an open forum to debate whether Busan should host a second professional baseball franchise and whether the city should build an indoor stadium. Five panelists were invited to share their ideas and opinions about the topics with about 100 people in attendance—a relatively sizable crowd for a baseball forum. Living up to the reputation of having the most passionate fans in Korea, strong opinions and remarks flew back and forth over the course of the discussion. 32 HAPS_winter 2014

Perhaps even more interesting were the results of a survey released by the host councilman during the program. A week prior to the event 1,000 random Busan citizens over the age of 19 were asked a series of questions on the issue. NO LOVE FOR LOTTE Leaving aside the obvious results of having a split opinion on both topics, one statistic illustrates the potential popularity of a second team: less than 1% of Giants fans support their parent company: the Lotte Group. The citizens of Busan are crazy about their Giants, but there is no love for the Lotte corporation. When the floor was opened up to attendees, several expressed their disgust with the company, accusing them of being inconsiderate and having given back very little to the community. Most Giants fans believe Lotte has been using Busan and the city’s tourist-dollar potential to satisfy their greed, yet has been tight-fisted when it comes to public investment. A local media article published in August added to the fury as Lotte was caught underreporting their advertising revenue from Sajik Stadium. Forum attendee Park Hap-su echoes the typical sentiment of local fans: “I love the Giants, not Lotte,” says Park. “Lotte just sucks up money from Busan running four department stores,

seven hypermarkets, and a hotel. But, they show no generosity for investing for the city, even for their baseball team.” To make things worse, the company has not been very generous in maintaining their players. When their All-Star slugger, Lee Dae-ho, arguably the best player in Korean baseball history, lost his salary arbitration battle after an overwhelming 2010 season, fans were at a complete loss for words. Lee filed for free agency after the 2011 season and left to continue his career in Japan. Former Giant skipper Jerry Royster was not at a loss for words on Lotte’s shortcomings when he told HAPS in an exclusive interview after Lee’s departure for Japan: “They never showed any loyalty to him and in return he shouldn’t show any to them. It is their fault that the face of the franchise and the league is leaving.” Even to young Koreans who are testing the labor market, Lotte is infamous for their low wages and below average benefit packages. This on top of their stingy organizational culture has seen them spend less than 1/3 of fellow major conglomerates on corporate social responsibility (CSR) incenses fans even more. An expansion team in Busan might seem far-fetched, but both the forum and survey results indicate that this desire for another team grows solely out of the typical baseball fan’s wish for a franchise that is fully committed to both the community, and also to its players. Get more English news about Korean baseball at baseballinkorea. com or join the Facebook group “Baseball in Korea.”




Under the Bridge: A Malaysian Karaoke Odyssey Story and Photography By Michael


Under a noisy Kuala Lumpur highway, one man dreams bigger than his karaoke stage can fit. Michael Fraiman stumbled onto the scene and found a lonely, musical world. There were lights, and there was singing: not professional gled as her friends pushed her onstage to join the boy. They besinging, but the kind of lonely amateur wail one grows accus- gan a duet. tomed to living in South Korea. Karaoke, no question. Outdoors, V and I settled on universal karaoke hits: “Moon River”, “Burnin’ in the late autumn humidity, at 10 p.m., someone was singing Love” and “New York, New York”. We handed Mr. Song our their heart out. choices and sat back down. A rotund Malay man bought us two We followed the sound to a mammoth concrete underbelly of bottles of water; we thanked him, he grunted. I leaned over to a major Kuala Lumpur highway. Food stalls squared off a collec- ask the students next to us how often outdoor karaoke went on tion of mostly empty plastic patio furniture and a red wooden under this bridge. stage adorned with Christmas lights and a bold triangular sign: “I don’t know,” one boy said. “This is first time for us. I think “YHA ENTERTAINMENT KARAOKE”. We did a round through the every day.” stalls and watched a handsome young Malaysian boy deliver a I inquired why they’d bother coming all the way out here, to strong baritone rendition of some native pop song before de- the outskirts of downtown, near nothing but an unfinished mall ciding to, why not, have a go ourselves. and intersections of long, looping highways. In the DJ booth sat a middle-aged, raspy-voiced man hypno“It’s cheap,” the boy replied. They were students who’d rented tized by the dim blue light of his cheap laptop, a caricature of two hotel rooms nearby our own. Their friends finished their bohemian disc jockeys, with a duet, bowed to wild applause floppy black toque almost wholby their company, and took their “How much for a song?” I asked. ly covering his squinty eyes and seats. Mr. Song called up another “Three ringgit, three songs,” he replied, name, and a glum-faced senior slim rectangle glasses. He looked at us and stood up, extending in a poorly-fitted t-shirt with a focusing his attention back on the laptop. slightly younger, portly woman of for a handshake. “Hey, what’s up, guys?” he said quickly, grabbing dyed black hair waddled onstage “We just want one.” our hands. “I’m the best composto sing an old standard by an arter in the world, call me Mr. Song. And this is the best producer ist I can only assume to be the Malay Frank Sinatra. Above them, in the world, Mr. Robert.” He swung his arm across to his friend, hanging from the roof of the stage, were strung up Malaysian who stood awkwardly beside him. Mr. Robert hid his nervous state flags and the occasional bold “1” icon, remnants of their laugh with a bowed sip of beer. Malaysian Day celebration of two days ago. The man sung with “How much for a song?” I asked. a powerful bass; he’d clearly performed this song before. “Three ringgit, three songs,” he replied, focusing his attention When their two songs finished, Mr. Song announced someback on the laptop. thing in Malay, ending with “New York, New York!”, which we “We just want one.” took as our cue to stand up against a burst of applause at the “Here,” he said, handing me a notepad. “Write what songs you novelty of white people singing Malaysian karaoke. We sang want.” our first song awfully, in a key neither of us recognized; I com“Do you have English songs?” pensated by bellowing a powerful Elvis impersonation, and V, “Yes, I’ve got English, I’ve got everything,” he assured us. “Just as she often does, outsung me on “Moon River”. The whole perwrite.” formance was scattershot; neither Mr. Song nor any of our new We sat down front-row, next to the only group with a median horny student friends seemed bothered. age of less than 30. We exchanged smiles and the song ended; After we took our seats, Mr. Song took to the stage. “That was their friend was the handsome boy onstage, and they laughed excellent,” he lauded. “And now, I want to give you a song, for and clapped at him. The next song was geared up and a girl our special Canadian guests, thank you for coming. Thank you.” from the group, plainly dressed in a black t-shirt and jeans, gig- Suddenly wailed a familiar G-chord electric guitar, an intrinsic 34 HAPS_winter 2014

urge to slow dance washing over us, and Mr. Song pointed in our direction and firmly locked eyes for the entire three minutes and forty-five seconds of Eric Clapton’s “Wonderful Tonight”. “It’s late in the evening, she’s wondering what clothes to wear…” V and I shifted awkwardly in our seats. We exchanged a quick glance of glazed smiles and tried our hardest not to laugh or look emotionally molested. We looked at the horny students, at cars rolling past, at the ground, at anything; every time we turned back, Mr. Song stared directly at us, through us, gyrating his hips and slowly crooning: “My darling, you look wonderful tonight…” The next morning was our last in the frantic Kuala Lumpur, the largest city we’d seen in days, and the largest we were bound to see for at least a week more. We walked from our hotel to an Indian restaurant down the way, but glimpsed, by chance, Mr. Song again, across the street, standing and smoking alone in his bohemian black toque and rectangle glasses. We approached him; his response was a measured nod, as if he’d been expecting us. “This DJ thing is only for now,” he told us between cigarette inhales. “I play the guitar, too. Karaoke is just the launching pad. I have some songs down. I want to record them, man! I have some friends, but it’s hard. In Malaysia, the music is small, man, it’s hard to sell music, to make the money. I have a whole minialbum planned, man. ‘Songs From Under the Bridge.’ Yeah? I like the image, the name is cool: ‘Songs From Under the Bridge’. Like, this is where we come from, like trolls—trolls, yeah? Independent songs. Not radio pop. It’s about suffering. I suffer a lot, man. Nobody knows, you don’t know—I suffer every day. I think people will respond to these songs, man. ‘Songs From Under the Bridge.’ It’ll cause a sensation.” I told him I was a writer and gave him my business card, which excited him; I invited him to email me his music any time he liked, and looked forward to hearing his tracks, that I’d even consider interviewing him for publication, really getting the word out. He breathed in a drag of smoke, shook my hand and told me he would email me. He never did. Michael Fraiman is a freelance writer and former Haps editor. Read more of his travel stories at www.alongwayback.com, and check for his upcoming book, A Long Way Back: Stories of Travelling Home.

Michael Fraiman is a freelance writer and former Haps editor. Read more of his travel stories at www.alongwayback.com, and check for his upcoming book, A Long Way Back: Stories of Travelling Home. 2014 winter _ busanhaps.com 35


The Big Catch Story and Photos by Michael


For those anglers looking for a day out on the water, American Michael Flynn is the expat guru of the local fishing scene and he gives us the lowdown on fishing in Korea. “Fishing is much more than fish. It is the great occasion when we may return to the fine simplicity of our forefathers.” Herbert Hoover Moving abroad can be a difficult thing to do. For me, it wasn’t really scary and I wasn’t all that nervous—I just didn’t want to leave behind some of the things that I enjoyed doing. I did have a pretty good idea of what to expect once I got to Korea as I have a few friends living in Seoul and Busan. Despite most things being easy to adjust to, Korea definitely threw a wrench in my hobbies wheel; however, I soon realised I was able to enjoy one of my favorite pastimes from home—fishing. One day while walking my dog along the Nakdong River, I saw a couple of guys fishing. I noticed they were younger, and not the typical old ajjeoshi sitting on the river bank, bottle of makkoli in hand, patiently waiting for a little bounce on their bobber. These guys were throwing crankbaits and soft plastics and sporting Abu Garcia baitcasters with 12 lb. mono. If you understand that, you’ll know that it means they were out angling for largemouth bass. There are three main classes of fishing in South Korea: in the sea; coarse fishing; and for game or sport. While Busan has 36 HAPS_winter 2014

Once you get yourself some basic equipment, the best thing about fishing here is that it is free and that there are no regulations or permits needed.

fresh water and salt water, I only fish fresh water like rivers, lakes and streams which are very common on the west side of Busan. I fish from Hadan to Yangsan along the Nakdong River, Myungji-dong, Changwon, Miryang, and as far west as Junam Lake. Basically, if you see water, it’s okay to fish there as long as you’re not hopping a fence or in an old man’s secret spot. Some places are restricted areas with no fishing allowed, such as in Yatch Stadium in Hwamyeon Park, but these places are few and far between. As far as fishing goes, if you ask any of my friends or family, they will tell you just how crazy I am about being out there on the water. I fish mostly for largemouth bass, found widely throughout North America. I also fish for snakehead, an Asian fish popular for women’s health, though they are nasty, big, and mean. I also catch bluegill and carp. I fish every chance I get, but fishing changes with the weather; there are optimum times to head out with a line. Spring is spawning season and this is ideal for all-day fun. Fish are cold-blooded creatures so are more active in warmer water, but when the July and August heat comes they head for cooler, deeper water. During these months, fishing early morning and evening are best. I will head out from 5:00 to 7:30 a.m., go to work, then start again after 5 p.m. and fish until 8 p.m. At night it is good, but at midday it is close to impossible to catch fish.

Once you get yourself some basic equipment, the best thing about fishing here is that it is free and that there are no regulations or permits needed. Getting yourself hooked up with gear is quite easy as there are fishing stores located all around the city. Durifishing.co.kr is a Korean language website I use to buy products, but for information in English, I have found close to nothing on the Internet. There is a great store in Deokcheondong I frequent named Tackleberry; the staff are nice guys who speak a little English and buy and sell almost anything to do with fishing. Fishing has always been a love of mine and by the looks of things, it will continue to be. Fishing here has definitely made it easier to be away from home. It also is a much better thing to look forward to on the weekends than a soju hangover. And as the old expression goes: A bad day of fishing is better than a good day of work. If you are interested in joining on a weekend or holiday, contact Michael at michaelflynn9@hotmail.com 2014 winter _ busanhaps.com 37

Community Corner


Story By Jen Sotham

Come for the food, stay for the karma!

Being an animal lover and an active member of the Busan volunteering community, I’ve been aware of BAPS (Busan Abandoned Pet Sanctuary) for some time. I’ve had friends both foster and adopt dogs from the sanctuary. It never dawned on me to visit BAPS, as the pet I’ve chosen to nurture in the past few years is my travel bug. However, when my friend, Justin, signed up to spend a Sunday walking dogs, I opted to join. It was a good excuse to get outdoors and canoodle some pooches. The night before the event, I asked Justin where BAPS was and he shrugged, “It’s somewhere in Gimhae. I’m supposed to get some message with secret directions.” After two subways and a taxi, we found ourselves on a quiet farm road, literally in the middle of nowhere. We called a phone number we had been given along with the secret directions and a few minutes later, we were greeted by Jin Young Shin, cofounder of BAPS, and led up the hill to a structure not much larger than my apartment. I learned that the location of BAPS is kept a secret for several reasons. The first is to avoid animals being dumped at the sanctuary. BAPS must be quite selective about taking in dogs that aren’t aggressive or diseased...in other words, adoptable. While the title ‘sanctuary’ means that they commit to caring for each dog for the rest of its days, the goal is to place them in homes. Therefore, Jin and Leo opt to work exclusively with one of the city pounds whose practices are more humane than the other pounds, which get paid 100,000W for each dog they intake. The second reason for the secrecy is a bit darker… dogs, especially the larger ones, can garner a significant amount of money for their meat. After being given instructions, then stuffing a handful of plastic poop bags in my pocket, Olga’s leash was handed over to me. As I made to head off, one of the senior volunteers said, “Make 38 HAPS_winter 2014

sure you’re back for lunch - the food is amazing!” I glanced over at the hot dog buns and paper plates on the folding plastic table, then recalled the single burner and microwave over I had seen inside, and smiled graciously. Despite her twelve years, the black cocker spaniel darted down the path so fast I nearly lost my footing. Her excitement was a heartbreaking reminder that this was the one time during the week that Olga would get exercise and affection. A few of us, along with our four legged companions, wound our through the beautiful scenery, stopping a few times to chat with other dog walking volunteers with whom we crossed paths. When we arrived back at the sanctuary, we were greeted by an aroma that seemed so incongruous with our surroundings. ‘Could my senses be deceiving me... or is that a bordelaise I smell?’ It wasn’t a bordelaise. It was better. It was Boeuf Bourguignon, the centerpiece of a massive, varied spread that would make even the foodiest of foodies mouths water. A while later, as helped myself to a second bowl of the thick, tangy celery soup, I realized that, for a five dollar donation, I was being fed one of the best western meals I’ve had in Korea - one that, even if I were able to find in a restaurant here, would probably cost the equivalent of a pure-bred dog in a pet store. This gorgeous meal was prepared by Ulsan resident Sue Kershaw, who is on her fourth stint in Korea as the result of her husband’s work as an engineer. Sue, who is a Cordon Bleu trained cook, donates her time and culinary skills (not to mention the food, itself) to feed the volunteer dog walkers every other Sunday. Several other people take turns preparing and heating meals in the rudimentary kitchen set up on the Sundays which Sue doesn’t cook. One such person is Stephan Picher, a long time BAPS volunteer who is responsible for the relatively new practice of lunching

Around Korea at BAPS. About a year ago, Stephan made a bunch of sliders to bring along to feed the volunteers. He and Leo Mendoza (cofounder of BAPS) decided that selling the sliders to volunteers could generate a few extra dollars for the approximately thirty dogs who live at the sanctuary. “Turns out,” said Mendoza as he piled some mashed potatoes onto his plate, “people get hungry around lunch time.” Picher started out by bringing simple meals, such as chili, and volunteers would toss a donation into the empty dog biscuit container and scarf down a bowl in between walks. When Sue returned

to Korea last June, she took the food idea and ran with it, insisting that, at 1 p.m., the dogs are put away and the volunteers sit down to a family-style meal. “Before, you’d sometimes volunteer with someone for several weeks and not know their name,” said Kershaw. “ Yes, we’re here for the dogs, but it’s also about people who love animals connecting with each other.” “LIKE” Busan Abandoned Pet Sanctuary’s Facebook page to find out about how to sign up for weekly volunteer dog walking, support BAPS by donation, or adopt a pooch.

TEDX YOUTH IN BUSAN Story By Brendan Lea

Expanding the minds of the world’s youth is, and always should be, one of our top priorities. Busan International Foreign School is organizing a TEDxYouth series and they are looking for speakers and sponsors to contribute to and support this exciting event. Busan International Foreign School is pleased to announce that on Saturday, April 19th starting at 1:00 p.m., they will be hosting TEDxYouth@BIFS. TEDx events are independently organized events that share the aims of the major TED conferences. vTED (www.ted.com) conferences routinely bring together the world’s leading thinkers to share their ideas on the world around them. Some of the more famous TED speakers include policitian/activist Al Gore, director J. J. Abrams, and U2 frontman Bono. TEDxYouth@BIFS is aimed at the young people of Busan and will be an opportunity for the community to come together to share their thoughts with the local and global community. The journey that has led to this event started a few years ago on a cold winter’s night as I was attending TEDxTokyoTeachers. Sitting in the audience that evening, I heard several local and international presenters speak to the audience, sharing their thoughts on education and what can make the world a better place. I had seen TED talks online, but the power of hearing in person was something that truly moved me. After that evening, I decided I would have to find out how I can bring this to others so that they too can share in the experience. In August 2013, one year after moving from Tokyo to Busan, I approached the principal of Busan International Foreign School to explore the possibility of applying for a TEDx license to organize an event for our school. The principal was thrilled with the idea and I mentioned the different types of events that we could

apply for. After hearing Adora Svitak’s talk “What Adults Can Learn from Kids”, I came to realize that the event needed to be for youth. Let’s come together on April 19th to hear the youth of today share their ideas on how to make the world a better place. Let’s share our ideas and our lessons with the youth of today. HOW CAN YOU GET INVOLVED? Do you have an idea worth sharing? Are you a young person who would like to share their ideas on creativity, the environment, or on life? If so, then the TEDxYouth@BIFS team would like to hear from you. To apply to speak at the event, please go to www.tedxyouthbifs.weebly.com and fill out an application. As part of your application, make sure to email blea@bifskorea.org a sample of you speaking. All applications will be reviewed by the TEDxYouth@BIFS team. Talks are to be no more than 18 minutes and should be aimed at a student audience. Do you run a business that would like to advertise at TEDxYouth@ BIFS? Are you an individual who would like to sponsor or volunteer their time for the event? Currently, TEDxYouth@BIFS is looking for companies and people who are willing to sponsor or help out with the event. TEDxYouth@BIFS has various sponsorship levels and benefits. If you are interested, please visit the sponsorship page at www.tedxyouthbifs.weebly.com or contact Brendan Lea at blea@ bifskorea.org. 2014 winter_ busanhaps.com 39

Dining & Food

BUBBLY BEST By Anthony Velasquez

Nothing says Valentine’s Day or White Day like a bottle of the champagne—hopefully with someone special. Anthony Velasquez gives the dish on an affordable bottle sure to make your evening special. While most casual imbibers usually look for the bubbly just around the holidays, for connoisseurs, champagne is a serious wine for so much more than just ringing in the new year, and may be the most versatile to pair with food. As Oscar Wilde claimed, “Only the unimaginative can fail to find a reason for drinking champagne.” If one wants to understand these wines, one should remember this maxim; “All champagnes are sparkling wines, but not all sparkling wines are champagne.” In short, champagne is a sparkling wine made only with chardonnay, pinot noir, and/or pinot meunier grapes. While some wineries may employ these Champagne varietals and traditional methods, if it’s not from the Champagne region, then it is simply “sparkling wine”. Geographically speaking, the cool continental climate and chalky soils contribute to this unique terroir, resulting in the finest quality of sparklers. Champagne’s historical significance should not be underestimated. According to Don and Petie Kladstrup, authors of Wine & War and Champagne, this region “has been drenched with more blood than perhaps any other place on earth.” From A.D. 451 with Attila the Hun’s invasion, through the Hundred Years’ War, to the Great War (to name a few); these famed vineyards have seen their share of bloodshed. Furthermore, since A.D. 496, nearly every French King was crowned in Reims and has insisted on serving only the wines of Champagne for coronation parties. So here are five favorites of those available in Busan that deliver superior quality for their price and represent a variety of styles.. Salud!

HENRI ABELE CHAMPAGNE BRUT From Reims since 1757, this champagne is hard to find outside of France. The faintest yellow color with a fine bead in the glass, lithe and nimble on the tongue, yet still full of green apples, pear, lemon zest, yeast, and a little mineral. (50,000 won, Shinsegae) 40 HAPS_winter 2014

MARC HEBRART SELECTION CRU BRUT From a grower/producer from Mareuilsur-Ay, it’s analogous to a craft brewer vs. the giants. This grower champagne truly exemplifies terroir with a nose of stone fruits, flavors of orange citrus and pears with a floral yet racy minerally finish. (80,000 won, Shinsegae)

ANDRE CLOUET GRANDE RESERVE BRUT From the lesser-known yet outstanding village of Bouzy, another champagne that delivers a fine quality to price ratio. Medium-body, more golden in color, Red Delicious apple with a little citrus, bread/ wheat characteristics. Drinks true. (5075,000 won, SSG Market and Shinsegae)

G.H. MUMM CORDON ROUGE An interesting champagne from Reims. Despite its pale gold color and being dry, it has a slightly riper fruit profile than most, more complex, and has a nice balance of the fruit, acid, brioche, cream, and ginger. A quite appealing classic. (71,400 won, Home Plus)

VEUVE CLICQUOT BRUT ROSE CHAMPAGNE From one of the world’s most recognized maisons, it is made by adding a little still pinot noir to the blend. Salmon color, fuller body, its replete with tart red and pit fruits to a toasty, creamy finish; a champagne for red wine drinkers. (82120,000 won, Lotte Department Store)

Home Cooking



Hal Swindall

Looking for some tasty French cuisine after a long day touring the sites of Korea’s ancient Silla capital? Food writer Hal Swindall has found a not-so-easy to find, but perfect place. For some reason, the new French restaurants springing up around Korea often are hidden in alleys that make them difficult to find. 11 Chesterfield Way, opened in 2011 by Gyeongju native Kim Jeonghwan, is no exception. Located half way up a pedestrian lane off of Dongdae-ro in the city’s student quarter, there is no sign jutting out that enables a passerby to notice it. Finding this place is worth it for anyone spending time in the historic Shilla capital, however, and Kim Jeonghwan makes it all happen. Chef-proprietor Kim grew up only five minutes’ walk away from his restaurant, which he opened because he missed having food options in Gyeongju during his youth and he wanted to introduce international cuisine to his fellow citizens. After graduating from Gyeongju University with a degree in culinary arts, Chef Kim attended the London Cordon Bleu in 2005-06. He chose to study there because he did not want to spend time learning French and the London branch has the same curriculum as its storied school in Paris. He then spent a number of years at French restaurants in France before returning to his hometown. Kim admits that he does not yet get many customers, so business has been on the paltry side. Koreans, he complains, think French food is expensive and difficult to eat; many of his diners have to ask him how to eat certain dishes. Thus, he declares it is “a very, very hard thing” to get business going. There are many wealthy people living around Gyeongju, he points out, but he cannot get them interested in other countries’ food because they do not want to spend money on a different culture; they prefer expensive Korean food like steamed monkfish. Therefore, Kim feels he must persuade influential people to try French food so that others will follow.

Most people associate French restaurants with elaborate décor and swanky ambiances, but 11 Chesterfield Way banishes this stereotype: its glass front lets in natural light on bare walls and plain tables and chairs laid out across a cozy dining area. Cocktail lounge music plays and there are yellow circular place mats on the tables. Since Kim does all the cooking and serving himself, there is one set menu for both lunch and dinner, which is changed every month. I was there on a Saturday in December, and he was serving potato soup with corn puree, homemade pork terrine with an apple-onion salad, haddock wrapped in iceberg lettuce in reduced jus with bean sprouts, beef wellington for the main course and chocolate fondant imported from Belgium for dessert. After that comes coffee, served with a tiny brownie, madeleine and meringue. All this costs only 45,000 won, and is well worth it, especially the haddock, which is prepared with just the right amount of salt and whose reduced jus is extra flavorful. The Belgian fondant comes with

a scoop of homemade vanilla ice cream, and both are definitely the real thing. Since 11 Chesterfield Way is a one-man show, it opens only for reservations, and Kim asks that prospective diners call him well in advance so that he can buy and prepare ingredients. He is also busy growing many of his own herbs and vegetables in spring and summer, which he uses to create special menus. However, he normally closes for two to four weeks in summer and winter, since business drops off then. Kim Jeong-hwan can be reached at 010-3628-7045 or tisphone@hanmail. net. The restaurant address is 620-495 Seonggeon-dong in Gyeongju. The pedestrian lane where it lies is called Dongdae-ro 18 beon-gil, which is less than 100 meters east of the Dongguk University Bridge and has a Dream Depot and Woodstock Bar on either side of its entrance. You can see the sign for Grazie Italian restaurant at the end. 11 Chesterfield Way is 25 paces up on the right. Bon appétit!

2014 winter_ busanhaps.com 41

Music Scene



You’re in paradise, there’s bound to be some good music, right? Haps music editor and musician Seth Fellenz, searches southwestern Thailand for great tunes and of course, a place to gig. Warm white sand beaches, tropical sun around-the-world trip. The sorriest of the less) had turned up the rock with a few beating down, waves rolling in gently lot was always the guy with the guitar. staples of the cover band songbook, evfrom an endless blue sea. Thailand is par- Unless he was right near the beach, the ery one of them showing that he knew his adise. Once you’ve waded through the bars would be deserted from the time he way around his instrument. Slightly intimgarish ladyboys, offers of Thai massages, started until he finally packed it in a few idated when they agreed to let us play, and testosterone-fueled fire shows, there hours later. The real money makers are we took the stage for a couple songs. As is an incredible amount of good music. I the cover bands. soon as we started, the keyboard player had the chance to spend some time with Pete and I sat down one night at Coco- and bassist were on top of what we were a few of the local bar bands and DJs in nut Bar, a couple hundred meters from doing, playing along in five seconds what Phuket and Krabi, the folks who provide the main beach. We saw a typical band set it took our band five months to learn tothe soundtrack to millions of vacations. up—guitar, bass, drum, vocals—playing gether. We played two songs to polite apStarting in Phuket, my buddy Pete and Paradise City by Guns n Roses. And they plause and turned the stage back over to I were wandering down the beach when were killing it. The guitarist and drum- two much better musicians. we came upon a green, yellow, red and mer were incredible, song after song, Lucky for us, those two songs gave us black reggae bar. My first night out after a playing some technically difficult music some sort of cache with the band. We day sizzling on the sand, all I wanted was with an almost bored look on their faces. spent a couple hours drinking and talka tropical drink and some relaxing music, The rotation of three vocalists gave the ing, and they were unbelievable. They and this place had plenty of both. had been playing together for Once you’ve waded through the garish ladyboys, After a few caipirinhas, some about two years. They had also Jimmy Cliff, Prince Buster, and of offers of Thai massages, and testosterone-fueled fire been playing their instruments course Bob Marley, the conversa- shows, there is an incredible amount of good music. for about two years. With gigs tion turned to music. Both Pete every night during the high seaand the DJ (who turned out to be English) band range, and they showed it by flow- son, it’s no wonder they’ve gotten so were excited when someone requested ing seamlessly from ballad to hard rock to good. Three of the four were very capa10cc’s “Dreadlock Holiday”. The DJ had rap. Made up of four Thais and one Bur- ble singers, and they were, like the group been on Kata Beach for over a decade, mese, the band has no name, they simply from Coconut Bar, excellent musicians. and had made this bar his home. As cliche play at the Coconut Bar every night. According to these guys, talented local as the dreadlocked dude at the reggae Further into Ao Nang’s nightlife is an and foreign bands form in Thai tourist habar may be, he often serves as a beacon area called Center Point, basically a small vens and stay together for years. It’s very for the most relaxed place around. square surrounded by three stories of tough to get the gig, but once you’re in, Once we made for the coastal mainland bars and clubs. If you want to stay up all you’re in. town of Ao Nang, the music changed dra- night dancing, drinking, and finding true And can you blame them? With the natmatically. There were dozens of bars with love, this is the place to be. As touts pull ural beauty, laid back lifestyle and conmusical acts there, but they could basi- you into one bar with promises of cheap stantly changing listeners, it’s like being cally be boiled down to three types—a beer and live music, ladyboys dressed as on tour without ever moving. There is so DJ, a guy with a guitar, and a cover band. Disney princesses pull you toward an- much to see and do in Thailand, the muThe DJs typically work with a laptop and other with promises of a totally different sicians often get overlooked. Next time had small crowds during the evenings, night. After about an hour at the Long- you’re in Bangkok or Krabi or Chiang Mai, while a few kept things going until late. horn Saloon, I noticed a sign saying “live instead of just spending another day Many are tourists themselves, including music, play with the band”. By the time in paradise, do yourself a favor and find one I talked to who had played at bars Pete and I had talked each other into ask- some live music. throughout Europe and Asia during an ing if we could play, the band (also name42 HAPS_winter 2014

Nightlife & Music




James Turnbull

This reviewer cannot pretend to be objective here. Oppa, Wax’s breakaway 2000 hit, is his ringtone; he has a framed poster of her 2005 Busan concert in front of him as he types this; and he still buys the physical CDs—remember those?—of all her albums. One of those is her 10th, released in December 2012, and she also worked on two soundtracks last year, so readers may share his confusion at widespread reports that Coin Laundry is her first song to be released in four years. Be that as it may, the “Queen of Ballads” does not disappoint fans’ expectations, with a gentle acoustic guitar sound and complimenting piano line. Nor, of course, with Wax’s signature simultaneously sultry, sexy, and sensitive voice. Produced with the help of Grammy nominated producer Billy Mohler and Ember Glow, washing away stains in the coin laundry is a metaphor for emotional cleansing after a breakup. The MV, set in the 1970s, stars actor Choi Daniel and model Son Soo-hyun as a loving couple, and reveals he leaves her because he was secretly ill. One may quibble with a Mini featured in one scene (really, foreign cars were almost unheard of in the ‘70s), but otherwise it’s a convincing and moving performance. Here’s hoping a full album will be announced by the time this review goes to press! 2014 winter_ busanhaps.com 43

Hotel Directory & News

Hotel Events and News

Whether you are looking for a comfortable place to lay your head, somewhere to enjoy a good meal or throw back a few cocktails, here’s what’s happening at some of our favorite local hotels.

Seacloud Hotel

287 Haeundaehaebyun-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan ph. 051-742-2121 web. www.seacloudhotel.com

Choose from three different winter packages at the Seacloud, including the winter package which comes with a free bottle of Moringa Shower Gel from The Body Shop.

Hotel Nongshim

23, Geumganggongwon-ro 20beon-gil, Dongnae-gu, Busan ph. 051-550-2100 web. www.hotelnongshim.com

Indulge in one of five new signature cocktails at the hotel’s first floor basement “The Bar”. The offer is good until 9:30 p.m. on weekdays and all day on weekends.

Novotel Hotel

1405-16 Jung-dong, Haeundaegu, Busan ph. 051-746-8481 web. www.novotel.ambatel.com

Paradise Hotel

Enjoy one of four different delicious bowls of noodles on offer at the hotel’s first floor Terrace restaurant through the end of February.

Enjoy your wedding in luxurious style with the Noble Capri package, which includes a full course dinner, Armani chocolate and cutlery and furnishings from Fendi.

Park Hyatt Busan

51, Marine City 1-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan ph. 051-990-1234 web. busan.park.hyatt.com

Prepared by Stefano Di Salvo, Executive Chef of Park Hyatt Busan, tea enthusiasts are treated with an opportunity to appreciate the premium tea of ‘Althaus’ along with three types of classic finger sandwiches.

44 HAPS_winter 2014

1408-5 Jung-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan ph. 051-742-2121 web. www.paradisehotel.co.kr

Accomodation Guide

Hotel Directory

Looking for a place to stay when visiting Busan? Find it with the Haps hotel directory, your local English guide to accomodation in the city. HAEUNDAE THE WESTIN CHOSUN tel: 82-51-749-7000 web: www.echosunhotel.com Do it right and crash in the same room George W. Bush did. PARADISE HOTEL tel: 82-51-742 2121 web: www.paradisehotel.co.kr On the water, with a casino, excellent spa and a pool. SEACLOUD HOTEL tel: 82-51-933-1000 web: www.seacloudhotel.com Luxury stay with great restaurants. Short walk to the beach. CENTUM HOTEL tel: 82-51-720-9000 web: www.centumhotel.co.kr Near Shinsegae and BEXCO. Good subway access. SUNSET HOTEL tel: 82-51-730-9900 web: www.sunsethotel.co.kr Seventy-two rooms with, according to the site, “individual design concepts”. NOVOTEL AMBASSADOR tel: 82-51-743-1234 web: novotel.ambatel.com On the beach. Great ocean view, Murpii Nightclub. GRAND HOTEL tel: 82-51-740-0610 web: www.grandhotel.co.kr One of the cheaper spots on the strip, but still at the beach. GUNOH SEACLOUD HOTEL tel: 82-51-933-4300 web: www.seacloudhotel.kr Luxury stay with great restaurants. Short walk to the beach. HANWHA RESORT tel: 82-1588-2299 web: www.hanwharesort.co.kr Beautiful views of Oryukdo, the bridge and close to the beach. PARK HYATT BUSAN tel: 82-51-990-1234 web: busan.park.hyatt.com Five star quality hotel with stunning views and service.

SEOMYEON LOTTE HOTEL tel: 82-51-810-1000 web: www.lottehotelbusan.com Lotte runs a tight ship and it shows in the generous customer service here.

TOYOKO INN tel: 82-51-442-1045 web: www.toyoko-inn.com Across from D City, comfortable, clean and affordable. CROWN HOTEL tel: 82-51-635-1241 web: www.fnetravel.com/english/pusanhotels/crown.html Mid-range hotel decorated in Korean style, good for travellers.

GWANGALLI HOMERS HOTEL tel: 82-51-750-8000 web: www.homershotel.com Right on Gwangalli Beach amidst the myriad of cafes, bars and restaurants. AQUA PALACE tel: 82-51-756-0202 web: www.aquapalace.co.kr Beautiful view of the Diamond Bridge, right in the middle of the beach.

JUNG-GU COMMODORE HOTEL tel: 82-51-461-9703 web: www.commodore.co.kr Beautifully designed traditional hotel. Close proximity to Busan Station. BUSAN TOURIST HOTEL tel: 82-51-241-4301 web: www.pusanhotel.co.kr Conveniently located next to the train station. Good for a cheap night’s rest. TOYOKO INN tel: 82-51-442-1045 web: www.toyoko-inn.com Affordably priced hotel, clean and 10 minutes away from the train station. PHOENIX HOTEL tel: 82-51-245-8061 web: www.hotelphoenix.net Highly trained staff, close to Nampodong. Popular with Japanese tourists. ELYSEE HOTEL tel: 82-51-241-4008 web: www.elyseemotel.com Affordable hotel with good amenities. Close to Nampo-dong.

BUSAN STATION GUKJE HOTEL tel: 82-51-642-1330 web: www.hotelkukje.com About 3 km away from the train station, close to Citizen’s Hall. TOYOKO INN tel: 82-51-442-1045 web: www.toyoko-inn.com

The second location, this one is a minute away from the train station.

OTHER AREAS PARAGON HOTEL [Sasang-gu] tel: 82-51-328-2001 web: www.hotelparagon.com Business comfort, with close proximity to Gimhae International Airport.

HI KOREA HOSTEL tel: 070-4409-3132 web: www.hikoreahostel.com email: hikoreahostel@gmail.com Your home away from home, Hi Korea Hostel offers you an affordable and comfortable accommodation just a stone’s throw away from Haeundae Beach.

BUSAN CENTRAL HOTEL [Yeonsan-dong] tel: 82-51- 866-6225 web: www.centralhotel.co.kr Adjacent to Yeonsan rotary, located 10 minutes away from City Hall. HOTEL NONGSHIM [Oncheonjeong] tel: 82-51-550-2100 web: www.hotelnongshim.com Great area around the hotel. Head north to PNU for original Busan nightlife.

BUDGET BUSAN YOUTH HOSTEL ARPINA [Haeundae] tel: 82-51-731-9800 web: www.arpina.co.kr Opened in 2004, a cheap place to stay for the night. Culture center inside. GOODSTAY THE PLANET GUESTHOUSE [Haeundae] tel: 010-2780-6350 web: www.earthlinghome.com Women-only dormitory across from Haeundae Beach in the Crystal Beach Office Tel. INDY HOUSE [Kyungsung Uni] tel: 82-70-8615-6442 Super cheap, dorm-style room right in the heart of Kyungsung. MARUB GUEST HOUSE [Haeundae] tel: 010-6322-3194 web: www.marubee.com Well-placed near restaurants, commercial area in Haeundae. POBI GUEST HOUSE [Haeundae] tel: 051-746-7990 web: www.guesthousekoreabusan.com Renovated guest houses three minutes from Haeundae Beach. SUM GUEST HOUSE tel: 070-8837-0700 web: www.sumhostel.com Renovated in 2011, they guarantee guests a pleasant stay whether in Busan for business or pleasure. HELLO GUEST HOUSE [Haeundae] tel: 051-746-8590 web: www.facebook.com/helloguesthousehello Friendly, clean and cozy atmosphere. Outdoor patio for your enjoyment. 2014 winter_ busanhaps.com 45

Nightlife & Dining Directory

GWANGALLI BEACH BIKINI [Lounge/Beer Bar] Spacious club with dancing and such. BEACHED CAFE AND SPORTS BAR [Kiwi Sports Bar] open: 6pm - late tel: 051-924-9662 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ beached-cafe-sports-bar This Kiwi-run sports bar has gained a loyal expat following for its spectacular bridge view and its wide array of Kiwi beer, the only place in the city to boast such a claim. Rugby is the sport of choice on the TV for the punters. BELLA CITTA [Italian] tel: 051-711-0010 web: www.busanhaps.com/food/bellacitta-italian Italian restaurant with an incredible interior, top notch menu and indoor garden seating. BURGER AND PASTA [International] open: 11am - 2am tel: 051-751-6631 web: www.busanhaps.com/food/burgerand-pasta-gwangan The second of the Burger and Pasta shops around the city, this international eatery offers a great view of the bridge while you enjoy your day on the sand. Burgers, pasta and brunch are on the menu in the stylishly decorated restaurant in the middle of the main drag of Gwangalli Beach. FOUR SEASONS [Raw Fish Korean] English speaking owner, 2nd fl. Fish Market. FUZZY NAVEL- MILLAK [Food/Bar] open: 11am - 6am tel: 051-754-6349 web: www.fncompany.co.kr It has fabulous views of Gwangalli Beach. Facing the Diamond Bridge, come enjoy a drink and some tacos on our patio. Great staff serve fresh made Mexican cuisine and will mix up your favorite cocktail. FUZZY NAVEL- GWANGALLI [Bar] open: 7pm - 6am web: www.fncompany.co.kr Located on the ground floor, offering a great view of the beach and bridge. Friendly staff serve excellent cocktails at the vintage-looking bar. Make sure you take advantage of the outside seating in the summertime. GALMEGI BREWING CO. [Craft Brew Pub] open: Mon - Fri 6-1am, Sat 2pm-2am, Sun 2pm-12am tel: 010-4469-9658 web: www.busanhaps.com/galmegibrewing 46 HAPS_winter 2014

fb: galmegi.brewing Galmegi Brewing Co. is Busan’s first craft brew pub right on Gwangan Beach. SHARKY’S [American Sports Bar] open: 6 p.m. weekdays, 2 p.m. weekends tel: 010-4038-2907 (call for reservations) web: www.sharkysbusan.com Ranked highly on tripadvisor.com and as having the best burger in Busan by Haps, Sharky’s is a smoke-free environment where families or singles can enjoy a great drink and a fine meal. With premium-cut steaks, burgers, fresh gourmet salads and vegetarian options, Sharky’s has something for everyone. TAP AND TAPAS [Spanish] open: 3pm-5am tel: 051-746-6318 web: www.tapntapas.com Recently opened on the beach, Tap and Tapas serves up mouthwatering Spanish cuisine in a beautiful setting looking out to the Gwangalli Bridge. With an extensive menu and cocktail list, it’s a great meeting space for singles and couples out looking to impress. THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] open: 6pm - late web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ thursday-party A summer staple on Gwangalli Beach for the past couple of summers, Thursday Party has two locations situated next to each other on the east side of the beach. Both bars are similar to the Thursday Party city-wide theme, and offer a variety of American style pub grub to tempt your palate. WA BAR [Beer Bar] Wide selection of beer laid out for your choosing.

HAEUNDAE AN GA [Korean] tel: 051-742-7852 Very popular bbq meat restaurant in Haeundae. BILLIE JEAN [Lounge/Live Music] tel: 051-742-0297 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ billiejean A Haps favorite. Great decor. BURGER AND PASTA [International] open: 11am - 2am web: www.busanhaps.com/food/burgerand-pasta-haeundae Recently opened, this Western/ Korean fusion style restaurant has been packing them in since day one. Burgers, pasta and brunch are on the menu in the stylishly decorated restaurant, where you can also imbibe yourself to a glass of wine, a cocktail

or beer after your day on the beach. CHEOLMA HANWOO BULGOGI [Korean] tel: 051-709-4000 Bulgogi done at its best. CINE DE CHEF [Italian] tel: 051-745-2880 In Shinsegae, enjoy a good meal and a movie. EL OLIVE [Italian] tel: 051-752-7300 Delicious Italian, close to Costco. FUZZY NAVEL [Food/Bar] open: 11am - 6am tel: 051-746-6439 web: www.fncompany.co.kr Great location set on two floors near the beach, other bars, and clubs. Amazing Mexican food is served from lunchtime until the early hours of the morning. Friendly staff and outside seating makes Fuzzy Navel a place to hit when the weather is good. GANGA [Indian] Expect to pay some good money, but it’s worth it. GECKOS [Pub] Beach front bar. Consistently good food. GEN SUSHI [Japanese] tel: 051-740-6630 Affordable sushi. Good stuff. HELLO THAI [Thai] tel: 051-731-5033 Good Thai food in the heart of Haeundae. MERCADO [Brazilian Steakhouse] open: 11:30 a.m. - 24:00 tel: 051-744-8807 web: www.mercado.co.kr An authentic southern Brazilian Churrascaria, Mercado is the perfect dining experience for family and friends. With eight choices of prime meat seasoned with Brazilian spices charcoaled and grilled to perfection, salads and Brazilian rice, this unique dining experience is like no other in the city. LOVING HUT [Vegetarian] tel: 051-747-2979 web: www.lovinghut.co.kr All organic, all good. Veggie paradise. 247 [Pub Lounge] open: 6 a.m.- 6 p.m. tel: 1544-8247 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/247 An all-in-one establishment where dancing, drinking and fun are the name of the game. Check out the first floor pub lounge, indulge in some local spirits in the traditional soju bar or dance the night away on the second floor. NAMASTE [Indian] tel: 051-746-1946

Indian fine dining. Good prices and great food. PHO KIM [Vietnamese] tel: 051-740-4868 Good food at a good price. Great soup, located in SFUNZ. SHARKY’S [American Sports Bar] open: 6 p.m. weekdays, 2 p.m. weekends tel: 010-4038-2907 (call for reservations) web: www.sharkysbusan.com Ranked highly on tripadvisor.com and as having the best burger in Busan by Haps, Sharky’s is a smoke-free environment where families or singles can enjoy a great drink and a fine meal. With premium-cut steaks, burgers, fresh gourmet salads and vegetarian options, Sharky’s has something for everyone. Located on the second floor of Pale de Cz, next to the Paradise Hotel. SUNTORY [Japanese] Food and drink in a classy setting. Bonzai! TAO [American/Sports Bar] open: pub time 6 p.m.-12 a.m., club time 12 a.m.- 6 a.m. tel. 1544-8030 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ clubtao The newest edition to Haeundae beach, Club Tao perfectly matches style and elegance by combining a fantastic bistro menu with a nighttime club scene. Conveniently located across the street from the Pale de CZ on Haeundae Beach. TAP AND TAPAS [Spanish] open: 3pm-5am tel: 051-746-6318 web: www.tapntapas.com Recently opened, Tap and Tapas serves up high quality, well-presented Spanish cuisine in a striking new setting in Haeundae. With an extensive menu of upscale cocktails and a tap room, it’s a great place to meet for an informal meeting, or out for a night on the town to impress. T.G.I. FRIDAY’S [Chain] tel: 051-740-6531 Good reliable chain in the Harbor Town building, across from the beach. THE WOLFHOUND PUB [Irish Pub] open: 6pm - 2am weekdays, 11am - 2am weekends tel: 051-746-7940 web: www.wolfhoundpub.com THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] tel: 051-744-6621 open: 6pm - late web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ thursday-party A staple of the Busan landscape, Thursday Party Haeundae offers a casual, yet comfortable option after

Dining & Food




trip eS

02 SFUNZ Save Zone Dept. Store

d 05 Roa nam u G Sea Cloud Hotel

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Novotel Hotel

06 Toyota Dealership


Haeundae City Hall Paradise Hotel Dept. Store dae


Ha ach


Paradise Hotel & Casino



Haeundae Beach


04 05 08 09

Pale De Cz

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Daewoo Marina 3 Cha Daewoo Marina 2 Cha Busan Cinemateque



e City


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Hyatt Hotel



MARINE CITY RESTAURANTS 02 Kraze Burger 03 Hello Sushi 04 The Pan 05 Hyatt Dining Room CAFES 02 Tom n Toms 03 Starbucks 04 Caffe Benne



B ae nd eu Ha



HAEUNDAE CLUBS 01 Elune 02 Tao BARS/PUBS/LOUNGES 01 Thursday Party 02 Miami 88 03 Wolfhound 04 Rock n’ Roll 05 Fuzzy Navel 06 U2 08 Sector 510 09 Gecko’s 10 Sharky’s Pale De Cz 11 Billie Jean 12 Tap and Tapas 12 TBR 13 Sharky’s The Strip RESTAURANTS 01 TGI Friday’s 01 Mad For Garlic 01 Ganga 02 Hello Thai 03 Namaste 04 Loving Hut 05 Mercado CAFES 01 Coffine Gurunaru 02 Angel-In-Us 03 Angel-In-Us 04 Starbucks 05 Caffe Bene


01 Bus Depot


u Hae

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BMW 02 Dealership 02

Haeundae Aquarium



2 3 1

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ch Roa

HQ BAR [American/Sports Bar] open: Mon-Sat 6:00-Late, Sun 4:00-9:00 tel: 010-7544-8830 web: www.facebook.com/hq.bar.5 HQ Bar is your place in KSU for drunken mistake-making. We have an ever-expanding variety of microbrew bottles and craft beers on tap; an extensive selection of late-night pub grub; rugby, football, and kung fu


ae Bea

FULLY BOOKED [Cafe/Bar] open: Tues-Thurs 7pm - 12am, Fri 7pm 1am, Sat 2pm - 2am, Sun 2pm - 12am tel. 070-8170-9628 web: www.busanhaps.com/fullybooked




Haeundae Tourist Office

Haeundae Subway & Train Stn

4 6

Harbour Town

Haeundae Be

KYUNGSUNG ALMOST FAMOUS [Dance/Techno] Funky atmosphere, great staff. AUSSIE BURGER [International] Burgers, fries and Aussie pies. AYUTA [Indian] Friendly staff, good food. BEIJING GO-CHI [Chinese] Great skewers, great food, cheap prices. BLUE MONKEY [Dance/Hip Hop] open: 7pm to late tel. 051-611-2888 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ blue-monkey BON BON [Italian] tel: 051-621-0906 Great little spot next to Kyungsung U. BURGER AND PASTA [International] open: 11am - 11pm tel: 051-625-6651 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ burger-pasta With three locations around Busan, Burger and Pasta offer a solid menu, and reasonable prices that make them a hit with young Koreans and expats. Set in the traditional Thursday Party wooden decor, they offer pasta, burgers and a brunch with a small patio to enjoy the street catwalk on sunny days. CAFE RADIO [Cafe] Great atmosphere. Relax with a book. EVA’S TICKET [Western/Sports] Eva and the HQ fellas new super bar offer tons of things to keep you occupied.



a day at the beach. With a patio for outdoor sitting, this open-aired spacious pub brings the usual quality service the locals and expats have come to expect from the Thursday Party empire. U2 BAR [Lounge] Great place to chill, awesome service, a Haeundae institution. VAN GOGH TERRACE [Italian] tel: 051-741-3767 Nice view of the water while you eat.


Daewoo Marina 1 Cha Haeb yun R


Sun Plaza Zenith Towers Zenith Square

WooShin Golden Suite

03 Marina Center

Bene City


04 02 Ro ity 1rine C


02 04

2014 winter_ busanhaps.com 47

Nightlife & Dining Directory movies; and a music selection that, according to our customers, isn’t awful.

Ol’55 is located in the heart of Kyungsung University and is noted for its Open Mic Wednesdays, which are known to host the best Korean and expat musicians in town. PAINTED CHAIR CAFE [Cafe/Gallery] The art, the atmosphere. Good place to chill. SHABANA [Indian] tel: 051-621-4821 Good, affordable Indian food. THE SUSHI [Japanese] tel: 051-611-4043 Affordable, quality Japanese food. THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] open: 6pm - late web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ thursday-party2 With ten Thursday Party’s around the city, it has become a staple for the young, hip Korean university crowd and expats alike. Beer pong, sports on TV and the free curry popcorn or salted spaghetti sticks are always in play, as is a busy crowd almost every evening of the week. VINYL UNDERGROUND [Nightclub/Event Bar] www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/vinyl Vinyl Underground is known as the spot for live music in the Kyungsung area.

KINO EYE [Dance Club] Dark atmosphere. Live music on occasion. MONK’S JAZZ CLUB [Jazz Club] Busan’s only jazz club. Tuesday nights are hot.

O’TACO [Mexican] open: 11 a.m. - 10 p.m. daily tel: 051-627-8358 web: www.busanhaps.com/otaco Kyungsung’s original Mexican restaurant, O’Taco, has become a staple for those looking to get their Mexican food fix. Using only the finest and freshest ingredients, this must-try eatery has indoor and patio seating, as well as a daily lunch special and extensive menu at affordable prices. Open daily. OL’ 55 [Live Music/Event] tel: 051-627-5645 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ ol’55 48 HAPS_winter 2014

PNU CROSSROADS [Live Music/Pub] open: 7pm-late tel: 051-515-1181 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ crossroads A small, but atmospheric watering hole in PNU, Crossroads has been a Busan institution amongst the expats for years. FARMERS BURGERS [American/Korean Fusion] People rave about it. Nominated in Best Burger. INTERPLAY [Live Music/Event] Live music, hit or miss if you catch on a good night. LOVING HUT [Vegetarian] www.lovinghut.co.kr tel: 051-518-0115 MOO MONK [Live Music] Can catch some great Korean indie bands here. PHO [Vietnamese] Nice Vietnamese food in PNU. RED BOTTLE [Korean/Expat Bar] Good spot to get a drink. RISTORANTE [Italian] Great Italian fare at the Nongshim Hotel. SHABANA [Indian] tel: 051-517-1947 Nice Indian food for cheap. SOULTRANE [Comedy/Event/Rock] tel: 051-515-1181

web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ soul-trane One of the oldest expat bars in the city, the once foreigner oriented Soultrane nonetheless draws a healthy mix of locals, expats and tourists. THE BASEMENT [Korean/Expat Bar] web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ basement One of the most popular bars in the area. Always a great time, and anchors the PNU scene.

SEOMYEON BUFFALO CHICKEN [Chicken] tel: 051-805-3512 Good chicken chain with several interesting sauces. BUONA OVEN PIZZA [Italian] tel: 051-904-8239 Nice, oven-baked pizza and spaghetti. CLUB FIX [Nightclub] tel: 051-905-5777 web: www.clubfixkorea.info New super club. International DJs and dress code required. DIVISION 9 [Lounge] Pinball, darts, basketball, drinking and good fun. DRAGON DREAM (THE CAVE BAR) [Korean] tel: 051-646-5924 Very interesting decor with a nice selection of food. FOXY DANCE [Club] Dance club, usually packed on the weekend. FUZZY NAVEL- SEOMYEON I [Food/Bar] open: 5pm - 6am tel: 051-808-1007 web: www.fncompany.co.kr Check out the newly refurbished bar offering a variety of entertainment including, soft darts, pool, and table soccer. Awesome DJs and a wide floor make this place to be at night. Also, new to Seomyeon, the same amazing Mexican food as served at the Haeundae Fuzzy Navel is prepared in our large renovated kitchen. FUZZY NAVEL- SEOMYEON Il [Bar] open: 5pm - 6am tel: 051-817-2242 web: www.fncompany.co.kr On the ground floor with a sliding window for when the weather is good, an excellent mix of Koreans and foreigners makes this a good place to make new friends. A comfortable atmosphere, where you will be looked after by the friendly staff, who will even give you a fireshow if you are celebrating a special occasion. HANGOVER [Western Pub] open: 6 p.m. to 2 a.m. Tuesday - Sunday tel: 070-7789-5868

web: www.busanhaps.com/freehousehangover From the good folks that brought you the great Italian food at Vito’s, this new eatery/bar located in the prime of Seomyeon brings delicious western food and fine tasting beer with its unique refrigeration system. You can also enjoy your food or drink on their spacious indoor deck away from the hustle and bustle of the streets. LOVING HUT [Vegetarian] tel: 051-808-7718 www.lovinghut.co.kr ROCK N’ ROLL BAR [Rock] A true dive. Good atmosphere and pool and darts. T.G.I. FRIDAY’S [Chain] tel: 051-805-3164 Two locations in Seomyeon to choose from. THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] open: 6pm - late tel: 051-818-6621 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ thursday-party-1 You can expect more of the same from the Seomyeon Thursday Party, which caters to a young, eclectic mix of Koreans and expats. Nestled amongst a slew of bars and restaurants behind Judie’s Taewha, Thursday Party stands out for their unique charm, quality service and hip atmosphere amongst the Korean cool. VITO [Italian] tel: 051-806-5868 web: www.busanhaps.com/food/vito Fashioned in the tradition of the small Italian trattoria, Vito brings back a taste of the old country.

NAMPO ARUN THAI [Thai] open: 11a.m. - 10 p.m. tel: 051-908-9085 web: www.facebook.com/arunthai.kr The chefs at Arun Thai bring you succulently prepared authentic Thai dishes at very reasonable rates. This delightful restaurant, nestled on the second floor some 50m in the back alleyway next to KFC, is a great meeting place, whether for a light lunch or large-scale dinner in a stylish environment with friendly service. FARMERS BURGERS [International] Enjoy a quality, fresh-made burger and fries on the roof. KUHN [Asian] Hosts a variety of Southeast Asian dishes at good prices. NEW LITTLE INDIA [Indian] open: 11am- 10pm tel: 051-245-4127 web: www.busanhaps.com/food/newlittle-india

Dining & Food

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Bukyung University

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Perugio Apartments


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11 07 Yongsu Road


Century 21 Building


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AMCHAM #4501, Trade Tower 159-1, Samsungdong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul tel: 02-564-2040 web: www.amchamkorea.org An independent association of American and international businesses, the role of the American Chamber of Commerce is to promote business and trade between the United States and Korea. ECCK 102-2903 WBC The Palace 1523, Haeundae-gu tel: 051-959-9695 web: www.ecck.eu The European Chamber of Commerce

Aqua Palace Hotel vel Na zy 01 z u F to 0m 10



GWANGAN BARS/PUBS/LOUNGES 01 Paris 02 Beach Bikini 03 Thursday Party 04 Fuzzy Navel 05 Beached 06 Sharky’s 07 Galmegi Brewing 08 Tap and Tapas RESTAURANTS 01 Burger n’ Pasta 02 Bella Citta 03 Blue Saigon CAFES 01 Tom n’ Toms 02 Twosome Place 03 Starbucks BUSINESS/OTHER 01 Kai Surf Shop 02 New Philadelphia Seaside Church KYUNGSUNG BARS/PUBS/LOUNGES 01 Almost Famous 02 Club Realize 03 HQ 04 Blue Monkey 06 Ho Bar 07 Thursday Party 08 New Foxy 09 Vinyl Underground 10 Ol’55 11 Fabric 12 Fully Booked 13 Monk RESTAURANTS 01 O’Taco 02 Burger & Pasta 03 Outback 04 Okkudak CAFES 01 Starbucks 02 Tom n’ Toms 03 Angel-In-Us 04 Angel-In-Us

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AIR BUSAN tel: 051-974-8686 web: www.busanair.com ASIANA AIRLINES - DOMESTIC tel: 051-972-4004 web: www.flyasiana.com ASIANA AIRLINES - INTERNATIONAL tel: 051-971-2626 web: www.flyasiana.com CEBU PACIFIC AIR tel: 051-462-0686 web: www.cebupacificair.com JEJU AIR tel: 070-7420-1502 web: www.jejuair.net KOREAN AIR - INTERNATIONAL tel: 051-970-3227 web: www.koreanair.com LUFTHANSA tel: 02-2019 0180 web: www.lufthansa.com KLM ROYAL DUTCH AIRLINES tel: 02-3483-1133 web: www.klm.com






Situated on the second floor in the heart of Nampodong, New Little India specializes in the finest authentic Indian cuisine. THE PAN [Brunch] Nestled amongst a slew of outdoor terrace restaurants. THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] open: 6pm - late web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ thursday-party-1 The Thursday Party Nampo store offers a slightly varied atmosphere than the others around the city, though by no means is it less exciting. A slightly more mixed crowd of expats and young Koreans is to be expected, as well as the great service that TP has become renowned for.

To G wan g

GS Gas Station

2014 winter_ busanhaps.com 49

Services Directory aims to provide an effective network of business associates together with discussion forums and seminars on how to do business in Korea, as well as an array of social networking events.

EDUCATION FOREIGN SCHOOLS BUSAN FOREIGN SCHOOL 1366-3 Jwa-dong, Haeundae-gu tel: 051-747-7199 web: www.busanforeignschool.org BUSAN JAPANESE SCHOOL 173-8 Millak-dong, Suyoung-gu tel: 051-753-4166 web: user.chollian.net/~pusjpnsc BUSAN OVERSEAS CHINESE KINDERGARTEN 548-1 Choryang-dong, Dong-gu tel: 051-468-2845 web: kbces.com.ne.kr BUSAN INTERNATIONAL FOREIGN SCHOOL

798 Nae-ri, Gijang-eup, Gijang-gun tel: 051-742-3332 web: www.bifskorea.org

TESOL TRAINING KOTESOL Email: bgkotesol@gmail.com Facebook: Busan-Gyeongnam KOTESOL Chapter TESOL ALLIANCE tel: 051-818-0502 web: www.tesolalliance.com

KOREAN LESSONS BUSAN FOUNDATION FOR INTERNATIONAL ACTIVITIES tel: 051-668-7900 web: www.bfia.or.kr email: busanglobalcenter@gmail.com KLIFF tel: 051-513-0131 web: www.kliff.co.kr email: jennakang@hanmail.net PNU LANGUAGE EDUCATION CENTER tel: 051-510-1983 web: www.ili.pusan.ac.kr email: bangjy77@pusan.ac.kr



MEDICAL DENTAL CLINICS NEW YORK SMILE ORTHODONTICS open: Mon-Wed, Fri 10:00am – 7:00pm, Sat 10:00am – 5:00pm tel: 051-702-6677 web: www.nycdortho.com At New York Smile Orthodontics, we provide specialized orthodontic care for children, teens and adults. We make every effort to provide affordable orthodontic treatment in a relaxed and caring manner to every individual who is unhappy with his or her smile. We use the most technologically-advanced orthodontic methods available including clear braces, self-ligating braces, invisalign, lingual braces and faster braces. BOSTON DENTAL tel: 051-554-2879 Located in Sooang-dong in Dongnae, Dr. Sim Kyeong-mok leads the team at Boston Dental for all your dental needs. With an English speaking staff and multiple degrees from America’s best dental schools, they are available to give you 100% success with implant services with their cutting-

edge implant machine with a rich-full procedure experience. All dental services are available.

HEALTH CENTERS DONGNAE HEALTH CENTER 702-54, Myeongryun-2 dong, Dongnae-gu tel: 051-555-4000 HAEUNDAE HEALTH CENTER 1339, Jwa-2 dong, Haeundae-gu tel: 051-746-4000 JUNG-GU HEALTH CENTER 1 Ga 1, Daecheong-dong, Jung-gu tel: 051-600-4741


DONGEUI UNIVERSITY HOSPITAL 397-3, Bujeon-1 dong, Busanjin-gu tel: 051-803-5430 GOOD SAMSUN HANBANG 1162-2, Jurye-dong, Sasang-gu tel: 051-325-0300

RADIOLOGY CLINICS THE ONE MRI CLINIC open: Mon - Fri 11 a.m. - 7 p.m., Saturday 11 a.m. - 2 p.m. tel: 051-937-0303 web: www.mriclinic.net The most trusted name in Korean Medical Imaging, you can enjoy quick, reliable and trustworthy English service for all your medical needs.

HOSPITALS BUK-GU/DONGNAE BUMIN HOSPITAL 380-4, Deokcheon 1-dong tel: 051-330-3000 web: www.buminhos.co.kr DONG EUI MEDICAL CENTER San 45-1, Yangjeong 2-dong tel: 051-867-5101 web: www.demc.kr DONGNAE BONG SENG HOSPITAL 766, Anlak 1-dong tel: 051-531-6000 web: www.bongseng.com DONGRAE WOORIDUL HOSPITAL 205-10, Nakmin-dong tel: 051-559-5000 web: www.dongrae.wooridul.co.kr INJE UNIVERSITY BUSAN PAIK HOSPITAL 633-165, Gaegum 2-dong tel: 051-893-7761

HAEUNDAE HYOSUNG CITY HOSPITAL 1094-2, Jaesong 1-dong tel: 051-709-3000 web: www.hshos.com INJE UNIV. HAEUNDAE PAIK HOSPITAL 1435, Jwa-dong tel: 051-797-0100 web: www.paik.ac.kr/Haeundae

JUNG-GU HAEYANG HOSPITAL 80-8 Jungang-dong 4-ga tel: 051-469-4456 web: www.haeyang.net MARYKNOLL MEDICAL CENTER 12, Daecheong-dong 4-ga tel: 051-465-8801 web: www.maryknoll.co.kr

NAM-GU BUSAN ST. MARY'S MEDICAL CENTER 538-41, Yongho 4-dong tel: 051-933-7114 web: www.bsm.or.kr

SEO-GU DONG-A UNIVERSITY MEDICAL CENTER 3-ga, #1 Dongdaeshin-dong tel: 051-240-2400 web: www.damc.or.kr PUSAN NATIONAL UNIVERSITY HOSPITAL 10, Ami-dong 1-ga tel: 051-254-0171 web: www.pnug.co.kr

SUYEONG BUSAN CENTUM HOSPITAL 1077-1, Gwangan 3-dong tel: 051-760-5000 web: www.centumhospital.com BUSAN HANNAH WOMAN'S HOSPITAL 304, Namcheon-dong tel: 051-625-2300 web: www.hannah4u.co.kr GOOD GANGAN HOSPITAL 40-1, 41-9, Namcheon-dong tel: 051-625-0900 web: www.gang-an.or.kr

RELIGIOUS SERVICES AL-FATIH MASJID MOSQUE Namsan-dong, #30-1 Guemjeong-gu tel: 051-518-9991 web: www.busanislam.or.kr Services: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily

DONGNAE 502-3, Oncheonjeong, Dongnae-gu, Busan tel: 051-605-2500 GWANGBOK 20-1, 7 ga, Jung-ang Dong, Jung-gu, Busan

Sojeon Road

Club 12


Taewha 03 Judie’s Dept. Store 01


4 2 13

Jungkangdae Road

Seomyeon Subway Stn.








01 02

Seomyeon Road


Lotte Hotel & Seven Luck Casino


Jungang-dong Sub. 6


Lotte Dept. Store

Lotte Dept. Store








3 1


Yongdusan Park


03 01

Daegaksa Temple


05 03 04 Information 02

Jalgalchi Fish Market


Busan Modern History Museum

d Shoppin g Mall

Busan Tower


o Unde

NAMPO-DONG RESTAURANTS 01 Arun Thai 02 KFC 03 The Pan 04 The Pho 05 New Little India 06 Farmers Burgers 07 McDonalds CAFES 01 Caffe Bene 02 Starbucks 03 Angel-In-Us 04 Holly’s 05 The Cafe 06 Caffe Bene





02 04

8 10






FOUR LOCATIONS CENTUM CITY 1496, U Dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan tel: 051-730-2500


. g Sub

DEPT. STORES LOTTE DEPT. STORE www.lotteshopping.com Open: 10:30 ~ 20:00






SEOMYEON CLUBS 01 Fix 02 Foxy BARS/PUBS/LOUNGES 01 Rock n’ Roll 02 Spot 03 Thursday Party 04 Fuzzy Navel 05 Fuzzy Navel II 06 Hangover RESTAURANTS 01 Vito 02 TGI Friday’s CAFES 01 Angel-In-Us 02 Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 03 Twosome Place 04 Tom n’ Toms BUSINESS 01 Kangs Dental 02 Apple Store 03 St. Louis Dental

Dongcheon Road


BUSAN MUSEUM OF ART 40, Apec-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan tel: 051-740-2602 web: www.art.busan.go.kr Opening Hours - 09:00 ~ 20:00 Closed - Jan. 1, Every First Monday Admission Fee - Free BUSAN MODERN HISTORY MUSEUM 104, Daechung-ro, Jung-gu, Busan tel: 051-253-3845 web: www.modern.busan.go.kr Opening Hours - 09:00 ~ 18:00 Closed - Jan.1, Every First Monday Admission Fee - Free BUSAN MUSEUM 63, UN Peace-ro, Nam-gu, Busan tel: 051-610-7111 web: www.museum.busan.go.kr Hours of operation - 09:00 ~ 20:00 Closed - Jan. 1, Every First Monday Admission fee - Free BUSAN UN MEMORIAL CEMETERY AND PARK 779, Daeyon 4 dong, Nam-gu, Busan tel: 051-625-0625 web: www.unmck.or.kr Hours of operation - 09:00 ~ 17:00 Open Year Round Admission fee - Free



Dongcheon Road

Cosmetic Surgery Street



Jungang Middle School

D City Dept Store

Sojeon Road

NEW PHILADELPHIA CHURCH Suyeong-gu Gwangan 2-dong 199-6 (8th floor) tel: 051-932-6832 web: www.newphilly.cc Services: Sundays, 2:30 pm


Kayodae Road

GIFT MINISTRY Myung-nyun-dong, Dongnae-gu tel: 010-7999-8644 web: www.tinyurl.com/lifeisagift Services: Saturdays,10:30 a.m. HOSANNA CHURCH Myeongji-dong, #3245-5 Gangseo-gu, tel: 051-209-0191 web: www.him-busan.blogspot.com Services: Sundays, 12:30 p.m.


PIFF Squaure

Gukje Market

Restaurant Cafe



2014 winter_ busanhaps.com 51

Services Directory tel: 051-678-2500

Facebook Group: Busan Bowling League

SEOMYEON Bujeondong, Busan-jingu, Busan tel: 051-810-2500

BUSAN FOUNDATION FOR INTERNATIONAL ACTIVITIES tel: 051-668-7900 web: www.bfia.or.kr

HYUNDAI DEPT. STORE 62-5, Beomil-dong, Dong-gu, Busan tel: 051-667-2233 Open: 10:30 ~ 20:00 SHINSEGAE DEPT. STORE (CENTUM CITY) 1495 Wu-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan tel: 1588-1234 web: www.english.shinsegae.com Open: 10:30 ~ 20:00

CLOTHING/SPORTS KAI SURF SHOP 183-11 Gwangan-dong, Suyeong-gu tel: 051-753-2746

SOCIAL/NON-PROFIT ORGANIZATIONS BUSAN BANDITS RUGBY Facebook Group: Busan Bandits BUSAN BOOK SWAP Facebook Group: Busan Book Swap BUSAN BOWLING LEAGUE Contact: David Alderman tel: 010.7919.1223

BUSAN FRIENDSHIP GROUP www.meetup.com/Pusans ULTIMATE FRISBEE LEAGUE Email: ch.pyles@gmail.com BTC FOOTBALL FB Group: Busan Transportation Corporation Supporters Fanpage EPIK TEACHERS IN BUSAN Facebook Group: Busan EPIK EXPAT SAILING CLUB Contact: Mark Chi email: Koreasailing@gmail.com web: www.busansailing.com LAOCHRA BUSAN GAELIC ATHLETIC ASSOCIATION CLUB Contact: Peter Bonner email: busangaa@gmail.com Facebook Group: Laochra Busan Members

GROCERIES COSTCO web: www.costco.co.kr E-MART

web: www.emart.com HOMEPLUS web: www.homeplus.co.kr MEGAMART web: www.megamart.co.kr

INTERNET GROCERIES EZSHOP KOREA web: www.ezshopkorea.com FATBAG web: www.fatbag.co.kr IHERB web: www.iherb.com HIGH STREET MARKET open: 24/7 online, Seoul in-store 10am to 10pm daily. tel: 02-2201-0652 web: highstreet.co.kr email: hsmonline@authenticgroup.co.kr High Street Market has all your favorite foods from home ready for delivery to your workplace or doorstep for just W3,000! Hard-to-find western foods, sliced-to-order deli meats, imported premium cuts of meat, gourmet cheeses, variety of spices, homemade vegan & gluten free foods and more.

web: www.indianshopkorea.com NICE MARKET web: www.nicemarket.net

FAST FOOD MCDONALDS tel: 1600-5252 web: www.mcdonalds.co.kr LOTTERIA tel: 1600-9999 web: www.lotteria.com BURGER KING No delivery web: www.burgerking.co.kr KFC No delivery web: www.kfckorea.com QUIZNOS No delivery web: www.quiznos.co.kr



Humetro Call Center Lost & Found Center

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Seomyeon Stn.




LEGEND 04 ong Roa



Good Plus




Mardi Gras, otherwise known as “Fat Tuesday”, is the last day of the Carnival season, as it always falls the day before Ash Wednesday, the first day of Lent. Eva’s Ticket in Kyungsung brings New Orleans to the city for the night on March 8th, with Cajun food and a Mardi Gras band, and a revival of one of the city’s famed party night’s in KSU history three years ago at the HQ Bar. This year’s event promises a night of great New Orleans music and party revelers decked out in the traditional colors of the festival—purple, green and gold. A great cajun food menu is also planned with po’ boys, crab cakes and gumbo to tempt your palate. Grab your beads and enjoy some southern culture at the festival known as the greatest free party on earth.



Club Bar/Pub/Lounge Restaurant

Busan Bank Pusan National Uni. Road

02 04 03 02



01 3



PNU BARS/PUBS/LOUNGES 01 Thirsty Moose 02 Wa Bar 03 Basement


PNU Subway Stn



PNU Main Gate



04 Crossroads 04 Soultrane 05 Red Bottle 06 Interplay 07 Moo Monk 08 Bling RESTAURANTS 01 Won Chon 02 The Box 03 Tajmahal CAFES 01 Angel-In-Us 02 Charlie Brown 03 Twosome Place 04 Starbucks 05 Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf

Geumjeong Ro



Bar/Pub/Lounge Restaurant Cafe

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The Last Word

Tharp On:

Teaching By Chris Tharp Illustration By Michael


For all the English teachers out there— feeling lofty about the good work you are doing enlightening young minds— your compatriot Chris Tharp would like to have a few words with you. I recently sat down to a very important lunch with the president of our college. He’s a beaming, gregarious man with the air of a diplomat—all smiles and handshakes—befitting a man of his station. Throughout the meal he held court, while the rest of us—both Western and Japanese instructors—listened attentively as he breezed through a variety of topics such as student ability, the Fukushima nuclear disaster, and the role of Girls’ Generation and Psy as ambassadors for the Korean brand. He then switched to technology: “Have you heard about these new computer translators? They’re going to be amazing. Things are moving ahead at a rapid pace.” We all smiled, nodded and slurped up the milky remnants of our beef collagen soup. “In ten years,” he continued, “these translators will work perfectly. They’re already getting close. There will be no need for native speaker teachers. You will be obsolete!” He laughed for effect, as if delivering the punch line of a joke that he’d been sharpening for years. We nervously joined in turn. Are we really that expendable? I thought, choking down the salty broth now caught up in my throat. As I glanced around the table and met the nervous eyes of the other teachers, I could see that we all were thinking the exact same thing. “This is all a few years off.” His tone now grew serious. “In the meantime, I’m sorry to announce that you are all being replaced by Filipino robots.” 54 HAPS_winter 2014

Like many of you reading this, I work as an English teacher. This is an occupation that, other than learning the language from birth and speaking it daily, I had no special training for. In fact, on my first day in Korea, just fifteen minutes into my shift, I was handed a bright purple textbook (Tiny Talk 3A) and thrust into a classroom packed with sadistic kindergartners. My boss just grinned through instant coffee-stained teeth and said, “Teach.” This, along with his best attempt at a thumbs-up, was my prep. The kids—painfully cute piranhas with black, bowl cut heads— eviscerated me. I felt like a bleeding deer attempting to cross a tributary of the Amazon: There was no way I was making it to the other side without being eaten alive. Somehow, I managed to survive. Nine years and some months later, I’m still plugging away in the classroom. Admittedly, I’ve moved on up and branched out, but the lion’s share of my income still comes from drilling prepositional phrases into the heads of my students. And while I can admit to enjoying my work at times, the fact that basically anyone can do it makes me wither inside. I am, in fact, a giant, pink, replaceable monkey. My skills, what they are, are hardly unique. This reality is driven deep into my heart every time I come across some fresh-faced, straight-out-of-college kid (who could literally be my own) who just got hired for the exact same job I’ve been grinding at for years now. Whenever we meet, he gives me the bro shake, and after chewing over last week’s NFL scores, he lets me know that, “Dude! I’m a ‘professor’ too!”

Teaching English here isn’t a bad gig. Granted, no one’s go- we know its vacation time, but you wanna come to camp? Get on ing to get rich doing it, but sometimes the money can be al- the bus! Come on, kids, we’re gonna have fun, we promise! We’re most stupidly good for the effort put in. Case in point: English gonna play capture the flag and eat ‘smores. That’s right, get on the camps—specialized sessions of English language training held bus! We’re gonna ride horses and paddle canoes and BWAHAHAduring the summer and winter breaks. HAHAHA!!! WE LIED!!! IT’S JUST MORE SCHOOL!!! ONLY ALL IN ENGI just got finished doing one of these. It was the second of my LISH!!! GET OUT YOUR PENCILS!!! BWAHAHAHAHAHA!!!” illustrious career, and despite the hefty addition to my bank acNo wonder so many looked at me with utter, black hatred. count, I couldn’t help feeling dirty afterwards. Ostensibly, I was The hagwons, or institutes, are no different. School after helping kids to improve their English, though deep down I knew school. Day in and day out. Oh the joy. And we, the English that I’d had a hand in something teachers, are all willing particiwicked. pants in this—a system that is robAND WHILE I CAN ADMIT TO ENJOYING It all starts with a great lie: English bing generations of children of MY WORK AT TIMES, THE FACT THAT Camp. How is this “camp?” There’s their childhoods. We gladly profit no sleeping in tents, and certainly BASICALLY ANYONE CAN DO IT MAKES ME from it and use the proceeds to no swimming; there’s no campbuy Jagerbombs and finance our WITHER INSIDE. I AM, IN FACT, A GIANT, fires or three-legged races or telltrips to India. We are cogs on the ing of ghost stories… none of it. wheel of linguistic oppression, acPINK, REPLACEABLE MONKEY. The only camp I can compare it to complices in what is nothing short is a concentration camp. After all, none of the “campers” were of an educational atrocity. there by their own volition, and they certainly weren’t free to Someday we just may be called to answer for our sins. One day, leave. And at least Auschwitz and Dachau were eventually lib- an English camp I’m working just may liberated. I’ll be arrested erated. Sadly, no Allied Armies will ever be busting down the and brought before the tribunal. What could I possibly have to gates of English Camp to free Min-kyung and Jang-ho. They say in my own defense? may get out during the school year, but they’ll all be back next “It… it… it wasn’t me! I’m innocent!! It was Sunny Teacher!!! She break. made me do it!!! It was all her… I swear on it… I… I WAS JUST It’s rather sadistic, isn’t it? Tricking kids into studying? “Hey kids, FOLLOWING ORDERS!!!” 2014 winter_ busanhaps.com 55

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