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The Sakhalin Koreans | 22 Shaking the Model Taboo | 24 Deluxe Weekend Getaways | 26


Events: The Big Five | 12 The Haps: Word on the Street | 14 News: In the News | 16 Material World | 18 Fashion: Style Files | 20 Tharp On: Haters | 58


Going for Glory | 30


The Perfect Getaway | 32 Museums in Busan | 34


Interview: Haeundae Mayor Bae Duk Kwang | 36


Fall Fusion | 38 The Dish: Matt’s Chocolate Mousse


Notes From a Noraebang Nerd | 40 K-pop Corner: Ailee | 41 Upcoming Album Releases | 41 Jazzing It Up in Busan | 42

DIRECTORY/GUIDES Hotel News & Directory | 44 Directory | 46-52 Busan Metro Map | 52 Area Maps | 46-53 The stunning view from the living room of the luxurious Wow Pension on Geoje Island.




Why not treat yourself to a relaxing weekend living large in one of Korea’s luxury pensions? Isn’t it about time you treat yourself to a little getaway?

FIRST LOOK by Anthony Velasquez


If you read last year’s travel feature in the BBC, “Busan is a genuine all-rounder that mixes a healthy outdoor lifestyle with a love of the arts and an exciting nightlife scene . . . emerging from different stations along Busan’s subway can often leave you surprised that you are still in the same city.” One such spot that perfectly exemplifies this notion is Tap & Tapas/The Back Room in Haeundae. Entering T&T or TBR as it is more commonly known, the ambience and the decor give one the sense that they have transported somewhere else outside not just the city, but of the country itself. On top of the unique atmosphere, there is some good fare to be found on the menu. Plump, meaty bright green-yellow Castelvetrano olives, nutty manchengo cheese, housemade romesco, a log of Spanish chorizo, and a shank of jamon Iberico attached to an Iberian black pig hoof hanging between the end of the bar and the entrance to the kitchen for starters. These imported goods betray a dedication to gastronomy and a new style of cuisine to Busan. These products are prevalent all along the Brava/Mediterranean coast but have scarcely, if ever, been found here on the peninsula. Whether one is a gourmand, a foodie, or testing the waters of a different cuisine in a foreign place, Tap & Tapas has got you covered. The drink selection is excellent and they even dispense their draft beer via a special process that guarantees maximum freshness with every sip. TBR also features a tasty sangria that goes well with the tapas dishes and their yummy paella. While Tap & Tapas is called a gastropub and rightfully so for its attention to detail on premium quality ingredients prominently displayed all over the Spanish-Mediterranean menu and inspired cocktail list, T & T offers various ways to entertain; a great date night out to nosh, a place to celebrate, a beautiful, intimate nightclub, a wine bar, or a place to unwind with some of the most well-executed cocktails in town. In my opinion, for style and substance, Tap & Tapas/TBR is the most inviting nightlife spot in our increasingly cosmopolitan Busan. Salud! tel: 1599-6349 | web:



nother summer has come and gone. Let go ye tears and embrace the coming winter, secure in the knowledge that Korea has a spectacular fall. In line with the cooling off of the coming season, we’ve put together our picks for some awesome pensions around the country to make your weekend getaways more enjoyable. All are designed with comfort and space in mind, allowing you and your loved one, or a group of friends, to live in the lap of luxury without breaking the bank. Along with pensions, this issue also features a lot of other great stuff to do inside. Chelsea Davies has compiled a list of museums around Busan that are well worth an afternoon indoors, and Jennifer Howell, an avowed “norabang nerd”, offers up some tips on the do’s and don’ts of Korean karaoke. If singing along (and listening to your friends sing along) to synthesized music is not your thing, Seth Fellenz writes about some great jazz spots around town where you can saddle up to a table with a drink and take in some great sounds. If you’re looking for something a bit hotter, James Turnbull writes about the peculiar absence of Korean models in provocative advertisements and how it is slowly becoming a thing of the past as the country opens up to more varied expressions of beauty from those within its own ranks. Also, the Haeundae mayor gives us a preview of what’s to come in Busan’s hottest part of town as the city continues to expand outward and upward. And, Karina Druzhinina writes a very interesting piece about the long heated issue of the Sakhalin Koreans in Russia. Along with our regular features on food, drink, life and travel, another issue of Haps is done. Thanks to all who helped in putting it together.

ON THE COVER This issue, Haps looks at some great spots around the country to lay your head in a little bit of luxury. They’re fully equipped with all the amenities, like a home away from home that’s just a little better than home.

The view from Avista Hideaway Resort and Spa. 8

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Looking for something upscale on your next trip to Thailand? Jeff Liebsch reports back from the Avista Hideaway Resort and Spa on the island of Phuket.

ASK A LOCAL HAPS ASKS A SEASONED LOCAL ABOUT WHAT THEY LIKE ABOUT BUSAN AND WHAT THEY RECOMMEND TO PEOPLE LIVING AND VISITING HERE. NAME: Junnie Ahn OCCUPATION: Music Therapist RESIDENCE: Seomyeon, Busan WHAT IS A PLACE YOU WOULD RECOMMEND TO PEOPLE VISITING KOREA FOR THE FIRST TIME? To feel the authentic atmosphere, I always visit markets when I travel to other countries. Neither too fancy nor too traditional, Namdaemun Market in Seoul shows Korean ordinary life. You can get trendy outfits for a reasonable price as well as enjoy some food from street vendors. WHERE IS YOUR FAVORITE PLACE TO EAT IN BUSAN THAT PEOPLE MAY NOT KNOW ABOUT? In the foothills near PNU is a great place called Moosimjung (무심정). It’s a restaurant, but so much more. It has healthy Buddhist food and handcrafted brass tableware. You can get incredibly fresh organic vegetables while enjoying the unique interior design and the famous traditional jars full of preserved pickles and sauces. They also have palboyeonbap, a lotus rice served with unique side dishes that are only available for lunch on the weekdays. WHERE IS THE BEST PLACE TO ENJOY FALL IN KOREA? I love the cool weather after the hot summer, it’s a great time to be outdoors. I especially enjoy walking around Gyeongju in the fall. The area around Bomun Lake is really lovely that time of year. And also, there is the Artsonje Museum which is great for taking in the latest from Korean and international artists. CAN YOU RECOMMEND SOMEWHERE TO ENJOY THAT EXPATS MAY NOT HAVE DISCOVERED? Beopgi Reservoir is a water conservation area in Yangsan that had been closed for almost 80 years, but was opened to the public two years ago. The scenery composed of cedar woods on the shores of the lake is beautiful beyond all description. Look up at the giant trees and take a deep breath of fresh air while strolling down the path in the forest that had been untouched for almost 100 years.

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CONTRIBUTORS KARINA DRUZHININA Karina grew up in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, Russia. Aside from studying at Dongseo University, playing Spelunky with her boyfriend, and reading short stories, she created a recipe for The-Best-Tofu-Toastin-the-World. It is, as yet, unpatented.

CHRISTY SWAIN A fashion-loving girl, this Kiwi would like to divide her time between Paris and Milan, but for now, she’ll settle for Busan, browsing the vintage stores of Seomyeon or the High St. in Nampodong.

JENNIFER HOWELL Originally from Wisconsin, Jennifer now spends her weekdays grading university essays in Gyeongju and weekends directing plays, singing, and reading at Wordz Only in Busan. She lives with her husband and a crazy orange cat.

JAMES TURNBULL Since coming to Korea in 2000, James has become widely known for his highly respected blog The Grand Narrative. He lives in Busan with his wife and two daughters, Alice and Elizabeth.

SETH FELLENZ Having last issue taken over the helm of Haps music editor, Seth has moved from Wisconsin to Busan twice. When he’s not busy playing screen golf or grocery shopping, you can find him around town laughing at his own jokes.


Chris hails from Washington State and has lived in Busan for over six years. When not when banging on a guitar or screaming into a microphone, he likes to write. If you buy him a drink, he’ll tell you all about the times he met Kurt Cobain, but you probably already know the story.

JEN SOTHAM Jen hails from New York and has been eating her way through Busan since 2006. The first Korean phrase she learned was chal-mo-gu-soob-ni-da.

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ART DIRECTOR Russell McConnell WEBMASTER Danny Himes

CULTURE EDITOR Jen Sotham FASHION EDITOR Christy Swain MUSIC EDITOR Seth Fellenz WRITERS: Jen Sotham Chris Tharp James Turnbull Jennifer Howell Chelsea Davies Junnie Ahn Seth Fellenz Jeff Liebsch Bobby McGill Anthony Velasquez Matthew Sidgreaves Karina Druzhinina

DESIGNERS: Kelvin Brassbridge II PHOTOGRAPHERS: Ben Weller Mike Dixon Chelsea Davies Jen Sotham Jennifer Howell Lee Gumienny ILLUSTRATORS: Michael Roy ACCOUNTS SERVICES Marie Sung

TRANSLATION: Kim So-yeon Junnie Ahn INTERN Shin Kyung-bin

Follow us @busanhaps Busan Haps Magazine SUBMISSIONS BUSAN HAPS Fall 2013 Issue 27 BUSINESS REGISTRATION ADVERTISING NUMBER: 00001 FIRST PUBLICATION DATE: Sept, 2, 2009 OFFICE ADDRESS: Pale de CZ, 2-19, Jung Dong 1124-2, Haeundae-gu Busan, Republic of Korea

DISCLAIMER: The opinions in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher. Questions or comments: ©2013 Busan Haps Magazine




SEORAKSAN Considered by most as the best place in the country to check out the full spectrum of colored leaves, mid-to-late October is the best time to enjoy the stunning views while hiking through one of Seoraksan’s many trails. +82-33-1330 (Korean, English, Japanese, Chinese) Getting there: Take a bus from Nopodong Bus Terminal to Sokcho (7 hours).

JIRISAN Piagol Valley and Baemsagol Valley in Jirisan Mountain are especially noted for their vivid colors which peak around midOctober offering a dramatic contrast with the bright blue skies. +82-55-1330 (Korean, English, Japanese, Chinese) Getting there: Take an intercity bus directly to Jungsan-ni Village from Sasang Station (3 hours). Note: there are only four buses a day. 2013 fall _ 11

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Events & Culture

OKTOBERFEST OCTOBER 10 -12 The only Oktoberfest in Busan, the ninth edition of the annual beer festival is held in Hurshimchung Brau, the Hotel Nongshim’s traditional German style beer hall. The ticket price of 10,000 won includes a 500cc commemorative beer mug filled with your choice of beers, a live band, drinking contests and the most Bavarian spirit this side of Munich.










Nearly a million people flock to the shores of Gwangalli Beach to soak up the yearly fireworks show with a stunning view of the Diamond Bridge as a backdrop. The biggest event on the Gwangalli Beach calendar each year begins with huge K-pop concerts a day early as the city goes allout in what has become one of the signature events in Busan.

Now in its 9th edition, the Busan Choral Festival hosts four days of amazing singing, including the return of one of the most awarded choirs in the world, the University of Philippines Madrigal Singers. Forty-eight teams representing thirteen countries will participate along with the World Vision Korean Children’s Choir and the first outdoor singing parade highlighting the four day event.

With over 350 exhibitors and 700 booths, the BISFE is the largest seafood and fisheries trade show in the country. The expo provides marine-concerned businesses and the general population an opportunity to see what’s new in seafood and fisheries related products and technology, as well as the newest in marine business trends. A complete listing of events can be found at

2013 G STAR NOVEMBER 14-17 One of the top three gaming conventions in the world, G STAR brings the best and the newest in interactive games for PCs, mobiles, video game consoles, arcade and game-related products. G STAR, short for “Game Show & Trading, All-Round,” looks to exceed the nearly 300,000 visitors and over 400 companies from 31 countries that visited last year.

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MASSKARA FESTIVAL BACOLOD, PHILIPPINES, THROUGH OCT. 20TH MassKara is a mix of the English word ‘mass’ for many people and ‘cara’, the Spanish word for face. The 20-day Carnival-like fest features colorfully masked dancers moving to the rhythm of Latin musical beats, special dishes and a beauty contest.

NINE EMPEROR GODS FESTIVAL PHUKET, THAILAND, THROUGH OCT. 15TH Also known as the Vegetarian Festival, the Thailand version of the Taoist celebration welcomes the nine Emperor Gods like no other. How’s tongue slashing and face mutilation for starters? Aside of the bizarre, mass self-mortification rituals, it’s mostly a fun, festive affair.



THE WEB HERE 2013 fall _ 13

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NATIONAL TRANSPORTATION CARDS IN THE WORKS A “One Card All Pass” card will be released in November according to the Ministry of Land, Infrastructure and Transport. The new prepaid card will finally allow all cities to be connected under one card for use on railways, subways and buses as well as to pay expressway tolls. The ministry said the last holdout, Seoul, finally agreed in principle to be the last to join the one-card system among 17 provincial and metropolitan municipal governments which will also enable the card to be used for ferries, public bicycles and taxis. The current prepaid transportation cards can be used for buses and subways in most regions, but they cannot be used for railways and expressways tolls.



The substitute holiday system will be introduced in October, which allows workers a day off when a holiday falls on a weekend in line with President Park Geun-hye’s administrative policy for “happiness for the people.” The Ministry of Security and Public Administration issued an advance notice of a revision to the law on national holidays to government and public offices in September. The ministry will implement the new system from October after securing the Cabinet’s approval and following deliberations at the Ministry of Government Legislation. The revision will be applied to 15 holidays, including Lunar New Year’s, Chuseok, March First Independence Movement Day, National Liberation Day, Hangul Proclamation Day, and Children’s Day. The new system may unfortunately only be applied to government and public offices first starting with next year’s Chuseok, while eventually moving to the private sector at an undetermined time.













“As a U.N. secretary-general, I regret that tension persists between them due to recent historical issues or other political reasons.” U.N. Secretary-General Ban Ki-moon at a press conference in Seoul expressing concerns over heightened tensions between China, Korea and Japan.

“In regard to the unpaid fine, I apologize to people on behalf of my family for causing concerns.” Chun Jae-kook, son of former president Chun Doo-hwan after his family finally agreed to pay off 167.2 billion won owed to the government.

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Community & Living

US NAVY HEADQUARTERS MOVING TO BUSAN A groundbreaking ceremony was held in Yong-ho dong in August marking the beginning of construction on a facility that will house US Navy personnel who are currently housed at the US Army Garrison Yongsan in Seoul. The planned move will place naval leaders and headquarters staff from the US and Republic of Korea in the same location, which will allow closer coordination and enhanced interoperability between the two navies according to the Department of the Navy. “This groundbreaking event sets the tone for an enduring alliance between the ROK and US navies,” said Rear Adm. William McQuilkin, commander of US Naval Forces Korea. “Our new headquarters will be co-located with the ROK fleet headquarters in Busan, where we can better support both the ROK and US navies and be closer to the maritime environment.” The completion of the facility and relocation are set for 2015.

SHORTER AUTUMN EXPECTED AROUND THE COUNTRY After a boiling summer which saw temperatures reach record highs on the peninsula, the Korean Meteorological Association has predicted that autumn temperatures will be cooler than normal due to a continental high-pressure front developing sooner than in previous years. Busan’s average temperatures in October reach a daily high of 22.4’C while November’s average is 16.3’C. Though Korea was spared from a major typhoon hitting the peninsula for the first time in four years, there is a possibility that a major storm could still hit until sometime in November. “The ocean temperature around the country is between 26 to 30 degrees Celsius, which is two to four degrees higher than usual,” said Kim Hyun-kyung at the KMA. “Such high ocean temperatures could aggravate the situation when typhoons form.” 2013 fall _ 15

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IN THE NEWS CAN YOU SPARE A COUPLE BUCKS, KIDS? Former President Chun Doo-hwan’s $203 million debt has finally been paid back to the government, ending a 16-year saga after being convicted of collecting huge bribes while amassing a fortune from big business while in office. Chun, the former military dictator, came to power in a coup in 1979 following the assassination of another military-backed strongman, President Park Chung-hee, the father of the current leader, President Park Geun-hye. Chun, now 82, had claimed in 2003 to have only $267 in his bank accounts, though his children gave up buildings, land, paintings and other assets to help pay the remainder of their father’s fine, a total of nearly $157 million. Chun had long divulged he would like to pay back the money, but didn’t have any to his name, maintaining the fortune they had was inherited from his wife’s father. Lawmakers say he pulled off a final heist after his brutal dictatorship, stashing his fortune in paper companies associated with family members, also noting that Chun still lives lavishly, though quietly. Chun’s wife said in 2012 that the ex-president had paid back all he could.

THE WEDDING CRASHERS The first openly gay marriage took place in the country last month, though as wedding days go, it wasn’t exactly smooth sailing for the grooms. After a nine-year relationship, film director Kim Jho Gwangsoo ‘symbolically’ married his partner Kim Seung-hwan, dividing a conservative society where traditional values are still considered important even as the issue of homosexuality is gaining more mainstream acceptance through TV, movies and media. The two tied the knot in a two hour ceremony in Seoul last month and, surprisingly enough, were met by Christian protesters who tried to put an end to the nuptials, twice interrupting the ceremony itself. While same sex marriages are not illegal in Korea, they are not recognized by the government, as the Civil Code defines the participants in a marriage as “husband and wife.” No such luck for same sex common-law couples either—they are also not recognized under the law, urging many experts to argue for the need to legally recognize the unions of LGBT couples to uphold human dignity.

WHERE’S MY PHONE? Gone are the days when losing your keys or wallet was your only concern. Statistics show that over 1,700 phones are lost daily around the country according to a recent report in the Korea Times. Last year, the police recorded 635,513 reports of lost phones around the country, a significant increase over just 62,000 such cases in 2010. Without the luxury of having a GPS tracker on your prized possession, you’d think the odds of getting your phone back would be slim to none. However, the odds may be in your favor—nearly 70% of lost phones are returned to their owners. Your best bet is to include your name and contact information somewhere on your device to ensure a better likelihood of return if you misplace your phone, and of course, always have a secure password to prevent any personal information from being leaked. 16 HAPS_fall 2013

Korea & World News

AT LEAST IT WASN’T ON PAWN STARS A 62-year-old mystery has finally been put to rest when a century-old currency printing plate was officially returned to the South Korean government last month after it was illegally taken to the United States during the 1950-53 Korean War. The plate, called Hojo Taehwangwon, was made by the Korean Treasury Department in 1892 under the rule of King Gojong of the Joseon Dynasty to print the nation’s first modern currency. It was stolen from Seoul’s Deoksu Palace in 1951 by a US serviceman who came to fight in the Korean War. The cultural asset was found three years ago when it showed up for auction at a Michigan Art Gallery. Despite warnings from the US State Department, the gallery sold it to a Korean national, though eventually both the buyer and the auction official were arrested and subsequently released. The Korean national was found to have overstayed his visa and returned to, one would imagine, an unhappy welcome by the Korean government. US Ambassador to South Korea, Sung Y. Kim, delivered the plate to the Cultural Heritage Administration on behalf of the US government in a ceremony held at the Supreme Public Prosecutors’ Office in southern Seoul.

HAVE PASSPORT, BUT DON’T TRAVEL Over the past six years, a total of 47 South Koreans have illegally entered countries on which travel warnings are imposed due to high safety risks. Iraq was the most popular travel destination, with 41 cases of illegal entry occurring since 2008. The Korean government imposed travel bans on foreign countries with high safety risks, and those who choose to enter the listed nations without government permission are subject to a prison sentence of one year or less, or a fine of three million won. All of the apprehended offenders had entered via a third country to work in the construction or oil development industries, a big no-no according to Korean government regulations established under the revised passport act of 2007. With determined travelers and loose screening, government officials have struggled to block illegal travelers heading to the travel-banned nations, a government official said. Travel to Iraq, Afghanistan, Syria, Somalia and Yemen are currently banned by the Foreign Ministry. 2013 fall _ 17

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ROLLEI INNOCUBE PICO PROJECTOR This very cool and very handy little cube offers a lot in its 45mm, 129 gram package. Plug it into your smartphone, tablet or any HDMI compatible device, turn the power on, and light up the room with your presentation. Created in collaboration with SK Telecom, the German manufactured Rollei is designed to display images on a wall of up to 60 inches (152cm) when placed two meters away. The Innocube can hold up to a two-hour charge and the LED light offers 10,000 hours of burn time. And while you shouldn’t expect amazing sound, it does come with its own built-in speakers. All this cool tech is costly, though. Depending on the model, look to spend between $300 $400 on the Innocube.

JAWBONE MINI JAMBOX These Bluetooth-enabled speakers are not going to give you sound like Carnegie Hall, but when you need to get your voice or any other sound to the back of a big room, it really comes in handy. Small enough to drop into your bag or your pocket, and sturdy enough to take most abuse, the Jambox is universally compatible with nearly all smartphones and tablets, with real-time streaming. Additionally handy is the ability to pair it simultaneously with two devices should you be presenting with more than one person. A downloadable iOS app allows you to remotely control the stream as well as the source, be it iTunes or other media applications. Available at for about $180.

5 IPAD APPS FOR PRESENTATIONS QuickOffice Pro HD ($14.99) Although it costs you a bit more, QOP allows you to create gorgeous, highly compatible Powerpoint presentations and the interface is easy to learn with a little practice. Haiku Deck (Free) The Haiku Deck app offers beautifully designed slideshow templates while drawing upon immense resources—including more than 35 million free photos. Pay extra for add-ons. 18 HAPS_fall 2013

SlideShark (Free) SlideShark not only allows you to create presentations, it also helps you to use web pages, PDFs and HTML files to create the presentations of your choice. Supports Powerpoint.

Prezi (Free) Create a presentation that has a single canvas rather than swipe-able slides. The easy learning curve allows for novices to be making stylish, if not dizzying, presentations in no time.

Keynote ($9.99) With an intuitive interface, stylish templates and animation, Keynote lets you develop colorful presentations for meetings either on your computer, iPhone or iPad. Our top pick of the list.

Gadgets & Gear

UBI INTERACTIVE MULTI-TOUCH DISPLAY Ubi Interactive is an innovative startup that has developed software which works with Microsoft Kinect and allows you to turn any screen, wall or even your hand into a touchscreen. The Ubi software senses when a finger touches a surface, and allows the user to click, drag, drop, scroll, and perform all the expected functions of a touchscreen. Once you’ve got Kinect or a Windows-based PC hooked up, connect Ubi and it does the rest, with very minimal calibration. Pricing for Ubi on the low end starts at $149, which will get you up to a 45-inch touch screen with one user license and minimal support. On the high end, it will run $1499 for double the screen size, 20 user licenses and same day phone support.

SLEEP IF YOU CAN ALARM APP You were up until the wee hours polishing your presentation; making sure every letter of text, every image, and every slide were all perfectly in place. All well and good, but you overslept and missed your own presentation! Sleep if You Can, which has been called the world’s most annoying alarm, has a novel approach to not only waking you up, but actually getting you out of bed. The trick? It will not stop ringing until you have physically left the sack and taken a duplicate photo of an item in your home you had previously loaded into the app. Most people opt for the bathroom sink. It works on both Android and iOS, and for $1.99, you can sleep soundly knowing you will get up. Passing out in the shower is another story. 2013 fall _ 19

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LEE HYO-RI SELLS OFF HER SINGLE-LADY LUCKY CHARMS Lee Hyo-ri thrilled fans and fashionistas alike by selling off items from her single life before marrying beau Lee Sang-soon on September 1. Hyo-ri’s “Splendid Single Life” flea market included exclusive designer clothing and accessories at a fraction of their original price, tweeting “I’m letting go of all the stuff I have, before I get married. Saying goodbye to everything that stayed with me during my splendid single days.” Hopeful shoppers queued for hours at the Super Normal store in Gangnam, Seoul, in August to purchase a piece of pop history. The petite pop-star is loved for her down-to-earth personality, often shunning stereotypes by appearing in public without make-up, campaigning for abandoned animals and most recently, by marrying in a small, informal ceremony at her holiday home on Jeju Island.

LADY GAGA SELECTS WARDROBE BY KOREAN DESIGNER FOR NEW ALBUM Giving hope to designer-wannabes the world over, Lady Gaga has chosen to wear garments designed by an unknown Korean fashion designer on the cover art of her latest album, ARTPOP. The student designer, Lee Ga-yeon, was showing her final graduation project as part of her Master’s program at Central Saint Martins College, London, when Gaga’s stylist Brandon Miller saw her designs and “strongly recommended” them to the pop megastar. Lee submitted eight pieces, featuring daring combinations of pleated leather, fishtail hemlines, and contrasting tones of black, white and nude. Lady Gaga has also been photographed wearing the designs at events promoting the highly successful CD.

PLUS-SIZE FASHION MAKES ITS BIG DEBUT For the first time in its prestigious 70-year history, New York Fashion Week has included a plus-size collection this year. Designer Eden Miller’s Cabiria collection defies the rules usually set down for curvier women, embracing large prints, vivid colors, and horizontal stripes. Miller used online fundraiser Kickstarter to help finance her line and hopes her show is the start of plus-size fashion finally gaining some traction in the world of high fashion. Other countries, including New Zealand and Canada, have also included plus-size runway shows this year, however the significance of featuring at the most influential Fashion Week in the world was not lost on Miller. “I need to do this right,’’ she said. “I want to be one of the designers at Fashion Week so that I can open the door for other designers who are valid choices to be there.’’ 20 HAPS_fall 2013

‘RI SOL-JU STYLE’ FUELS NORTH KOREA’S COUNTERFEIT CLOTHING INDUSTRY Thought all the best designer knock-offs came from the sweatshops of China or Bangladesh? Think again. North Korea’s garment industry is cranking out high quality faux-fashion at a fraction of the cost, delighting the wealthy Pyongyang elite and drawing buyers from neighboring China. The number one fashion inspiration is none other than Ri Sol-ju, who is often photographed in elegant foreign designs, high heels and luxury accessories. The first lady was photographed in a Chanel-esque blouse which is now available (including fake label) at local markets for US$40, expertly copied by master tailors in the Gangsun area of Nampo City on the west coast. Designs from China, Japan, the UK, and of course, South Korea are highly popular with those who can afford it, recreated from black market garments or fashion magazine photos.

Out & About



1. 2.

Women: Over-the-knee boot

Men: Suede ankle boots


Both: Brogues

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The Sakhalin Koreans By Karina


In the 1930’s, a resource-hungry Japanese empire enacted the forced migration of tens of thousands of Koreans to the southern half of Sakhalin Island. Karina Druzhinina is a direct descendent of that first generation and she tells their tale. Let’s be honest: my family is totally messed up. Messed up in a good sense though—as our cultural background and traditions are a mix of those from two different countries, Russia and Korea. Growing up in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, the largest city on the Russian island of Sakhalin, I naturally accepted that at every family meal there would be both Olivier salad and Kimchi awaiting me on the table. And I never thought twice when my Korean grandmother switched back and forth between the tongue of Mother Russia and that of Korea. This was my life. Of the many cross-cultural occurrences that took place within the walls of my home, perhaps the one thing I took for granted was the story of how these two cultures converged not so long ago and how the historical fusing of Russians and Koreans on Sakhalin continues to this day. My maternal great grandfather, Seo Jeong-chun, moved from Gyeongsang Province in Korea to Sakhalin, in the very far east of Russia, on New Year’s Eve of 1942 as part of the forced migration of Korean workers that started in the late 30’s as part of the resource-hungry Japanese Empire’s National Mobilization Law that obliged every Korean family to send at least one male to work in the mines or the lumber mills. At the peak of World War II, along with 400,000 Japanese civilians, roughly 150,000 migrant Koreans lived on Sakhalin. Due to my great grandfather’s elevated status within the Yangban system—the traditional Korean noble class during the reign of the Joseon Dynasty—Jeong-chun was not subject to the mobilization law. He followed his fellow countrymen simply to find work and to settle an urge for adventure. After his arrival, Jeong-chun was assigned work in a mine in the southeastern part of the island. Though inhospitable to most, Jeong-chun quickly adjusted to his new environment. A year after his arrival he sent for his wife, Jeong-sun, and their

two daughters to come join him. After promising her family that she would return home in no more than two years, Jeong-sun and her girls arrived in Sakhalin towards the end of 1943. Reunited on foreign soil, the couple went about living their lives, soon adding two more daughters to the mix. Two years later, everything would change. After the War As World War II drew to a close, the empire found itself surrounded by American and Russian forces. Following the Soviet invasion of Sakhalin and Japan’s defeat in the war, more than 400,000 Japanese civilians living there were allowed to return to the Japanese mainland. Of the 150,000 Koreans, most safely returned to Japan, with many of those then going to the Soviet controlled northern part of the Korean peninsula to restart their lives. Unfortunately, roughly 43,000 were refused repatriation by Japan and were stranded on Sakhalin. Additionally, they were refused entry into Korea and so, unable to return home and barred from Soviet citizenship, the Sakhalin Koreans were a people without a country—cut off from all contact with the outside world under Soviet rule. The Soviets set about trying to integrate them by establishing Korean language-based schools, but their Russian overlords believed the Sakhalin Koreans to be “infected with the Japanese spirit”—a belief that prevented them from establishing collective farms, mills, factories, schools, or hospitals under the Soviet system. In one of history’s great ironies, the task of establishing Korean-run organizations was given to several hundred ethnic Koreans from Central Asia who were bilingual in Russian and Hangul. In short, imported Koreans were used to organize and employ imported Koreans.

At the peak of World War II, along with 400,000 Japanese civilians, roughly 150,000 migrant Koreans lived on Sakhalin.

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During the first decades following WWII, the Republic of Korea chose not to provide assistance to their stranded countrymen. At that time, the number one priority was economic recovery. Japan also ignored most requests for Korean repatriation, granting permission only to those having either a Japanese parent or a Japanese spouse. Despite the diversity, my grandparents remained resilient — especially my grandmother. One of her gifts was a talent for telling stories. As a young girl in Korea, her grandfather often read books aloud and Jeong-sun relished every word. In Sakhalin, she quickly became known for her hospitality and reputation as an amazing story-teller. Every evening, five or six families would gather under one roof and talk until late in the evening. The conversations would generally start with small talk before turning to musings on Korea, the motherland they longed for. The years passed. And then in 1966, Park No-hak, a former Sakhalin Korean who had returned to Japan with his Japanese wife, petitioned the Japanese government 23 times to discuss the issue of the Sakhalin Koreans with the Soviet government. Due to his actions, along with separate efforts by Tokyo housewife Rei Mihara and a team of 18 Japanese lawyers suing the Japanese government to accept diplomatic and financial responsibility for the repatriation of Sakhalin Koreans to South Korea, an inspired group of Koreans in Seoul began radio broadcasts targeted at Sakhalin with the intent of assuring their people that they had not been forgotten. It wasn’t until the 80’s when perestroika in the Soviet Union lifted the Iron Curtain between Sakhalin and the outside world. And in 1985, after years of pressure from their own citizens and the outside world, the Japanese government established a repatriation fund for first generation Sakhalin Koreans. This was later followed by the 1990 apology by the Prime Minister for Foreign Affairs Taro Nakayama.

new found wealth, partnered with the Japanese government in launching programs allowing all Sakhalin Koreans the chance to return home. Both the original settlers and their locally-born descendants were given grants for visiting Korea and, if they wished, repatriation. By the end of 2002, 1,544 Koreans had settled in a joint Korean-Japanese settlement in Ansan, just south of Seoul. An additional 14,122 people travelled to South Korea on short-term visas at the expense of the Japanese government. However, a growing regional economy in Sakhalin and the cultural assimilation of the younger generation of Koreans drove more than 95% of them to stay on Russian soil. And 10% of the 1,544 repatriated Koreans eventually returned to Sakhalin. Koreans who remain from the first generation of settlers, along with their locally-born descendants, make up 12% of the local population, with 55,000 Koreans now living on the island. Many of those have inter-married and raised families with Russian citizens. While much of the younger generation no longer speaks Hangul, it is estimated that around 30% of Koreans living in Sakhalin continue to refuse Russian citizenship. Two of my maternal grandmothers, who were born in Sakhalin, visited Korea several times before finally settling down in Incheon in December of last year. Jeong-sun would no doubt be proud that two of her children are finally back home. Karina Druzhinina is a visiting student in the Department of International Studies at Dongseo University in Busan.

“Japan is deeply sorry for the tragedy in which these people were moved to Sakhalin not of their own free will, but by the design of the Japanese government, and had to remain there after the conclusion of the war.” In the late 1990’s, the government of South Korea, awash in its 2013 fall _ 23



Shaking the Model Taboo By James


Surprising as it may sound, two of Korea’s most popular fashion magazines, Allure Korea and Vogue Girl, marked this year as the very first time they featured a Korean model on the cover. James Turnbull looks at an industry slowly shedding the taboo that only non-Korean models should be portrayed as being sexy. Women’s magazines for over a century have been one of the most powerful agents for changing women’s roles, and throughout that time—today more than ever—they have consistently glamorized whatever the economy, their advertisers, and during the wartime, the government, needed at that moment from women. Naomi Wolf, The Beauty Myth (2002 ed.), p. 64. So what if the magazine is based off an international publication started in the West? No wonder so many Asians aspire to Western standards of beauty (double-eyelid surgery, anyone?) because they are constantly bombarded with Western models, instead of being shown their own beauty. “Miguksaram,” Allkpop commenter, July 26 2013 This August, Allure Korea had its first ever Korean cover model for its tenth anniversary issue, as did Vogue Girl in March of last year. On both occasions, netizens wondered what took them so long, charging their owners and editors with racism and cultural imperialism. What’s more, surveys during the 2000s found between 30 and over 50 percent of the models featured inside Korean women’s magazines (both international and domestic) were Caucasians. Those numbers are likely to have gone down in recent years, for reasons explained below, but still: that’s a whole lotta White women. If women’s magazines are as influential as Naomi Wolf suggests, then this whitewashing must surely be a powerful tool in perpetuating ‘White privilege’ and beauty ideals in Korea. International fashion magazines are undeniably the greatest offenders. Primarily, this is due to financial reasons. Whereas most came to Korea soon after market liberalization in 1999 (which allowed for 50 percent of foreign ownership and joint ventures), and accounted for nearly half of the market within just four years, they still had much lower circulation than Korean competitors. Combined with lower cover prices, this ensured a much higher use of—and reliance on—advertisements ever since. Most of which are internationally-sourced. Of course, delivering consumers to multinational companies 24 HAPS_fall 2013

is a core component of their business model. But it’s one that dovetails nicely with a deliberate strategy of projecting an exotic, glamorous, Occidentalist appeal. In addition to foreign cover models, this is also achieved by only accepting advertisements for foreign brands for the first few pages from the front and the back covers, and by focusing on fashionable, beauty-conscious, and increasingly global-minded 20-somethings (whereas most Korean magazines focus on housewives). Add to the mix claims of higher quality paper, printing, covers, and advertising techniques, and international magazines are also able to justify higher ad rates. However, young Korean women are not forced to buy them. Nor, in doing so, are they mere dupes that have internalized selfloathing and Caucasian beauty ideals. More likely, most choose them simply for their extensive local content, of which there is now often so much that Korean editions of overseas magazines resemble their originals in name, format, ‘spirit,’ and cover models only (and Vogue Girl, ironically, only the last two at that). Certainly there is wide variation between international magazines, and all overseas partners of them generally exerted considerable oversight and attention to format, layout, and article subjects and tones as they nervously entered the Korean market. It is also true that local expertise and technological knowhow was often lacking. Yet, success has brought a considerable loosening of the


reins, and a variety of localization strategies. For example, Elle, the first such magazine to hit the peninsula, relied on foreign editions for as much as 60 percent of its material in 1992, but this had been reduced to only 30 percent by 2005, and became an industry norm. Moreover, far from being the source of decadent Western values as they were once widely perceived, translated articles are chosen carefully so as not to offend local sensibilities. Also, ‘lifted’ content only makes up about ten percent of the final product; Korean readers understandably not caring for Western subjects and personalities they know little about. Instead, the general subject may simply be the same (e.g., skincare), as well as the fonts and layout, but it will be written by and for Koreans, using Korean sources and recommending Korean products. In addition, Korean readers also prefer longer, more informative articles than their US counterparts, and international magazines have adapted accordingly. Ultimately then, most of the lifted material proves to be visuals. But simple copying and pasting cannot explain all the Caucasians. Nor, crucially, why domestic Korean magazines have almost as many of them, or why a disproportionate number are lingerie models. In 2008, The Sports Chosun revealed all. In 1999, some celebrity Korean nude models caused a stir by also modeling lingerie on home shopping programs. Strangely uncomfortable with the attention, they soon disappeared from view, but not before attaching such a stigma to it that only foreigners could be hired in the future. This stigma is so strong that it often descends into farce, with fully clothed Korean models appearing on home shopping programs holding lingerie on hangers alongside Caucasian models wearing only the product. Also, rare Korean models on the catwalk have literally hidden themselves under large sunglasses and hats, and Korean models featured in online lingerie stores—but strangely not equally revealing swimwear ones— likewise hide their faces. Things have changed a great deal in the last three years. Especially with K-pop management companies taking advantage of

lingerie endorsements as both a much-needed source of funds and a means of sexing-up girl-group members’ images, but still the stigma remains. For if you look closely, as one does, many of the celebrities in lingerie you see are actually in magazine photo shoots, not ads. Most notoriously, last year Core Contents Media turned down a lucrative lingerie-modeling contract for soon to debut girl-group Gangkiz as it “wouldn’t fit [their] musical color and image”—despite reports on that ‘news’ being accompanied by one member in a very see-through mesh top lying seductively on a bed, bra clearly visible. Be that as it may, a stigma doesn’t explain why non-Caucasian foreign models are very rarely used, and accordingly, pre-existing racial and sexual stereotypes also play a factor here, with Caucasians frequently being used for Korea’s most risqué advertisements. The first erect nipple for example, appeared on a Caucasian model in 2006 (and indeed the second—in 2010), and expats may be shocked to hear some Koreans’ explanations of why you only ever see Caucasians in their underwear (“White people are more sexual” anyone?). In turn, expats and foreign journalists often look at all the ads (especially for cosmetic surgery clinics) and make the mistake of assuming that “Korean women just want to look White,” an assumption this naïve author also held —right up until he actually asked Korean women about it. With the success of Hallyu, ironically Korean celebrities are now regularly used as cover models across East Asia, and likewise are both a cause and symptom of increasing Korean beauty ideas spreading across the region. Looking past the covers, ads, and other visuals though, one suspects that most of the content isn’t translated Korean editorials. But to be certain, those magazines would need to actually be read, something which monolingual expats and both foreign and Korean netizens would be well advised to take heed of. For when it comes to women’s magazines at least, apparently pictures do NOT tell a thousand words!

This stigma is so strong that it often descends into farce, with fully clothed Korean models appearing on home shopping programs holding lingerie on hangers alongside Caucasian models wearing only the product.

James Turnbull is a writer and public speaker on Korean feminism, sexuality and pop culture. He can be found at 2013 fall _ 25


Wonderful Weekend: The Deluxe Weekend Getaway Guide

What you do with your weekdays is generally what someone else wants you to do. What you do with your weekends, well, that’s another story. Haps has put together some of Korea’s most amazing spots to lay your weary head in the lap of luxury.

Hi Class Pension (Namhae)

So, you say you crave a little opulence on your off day? High Class pension in Namhae fits the bill to a tee. While most often the casual traveler would skip over any accommodation with the gall to name their establishment “hi class”, in this case, the moniker is fully deserved—if not questionable grammatically. Check into one of their deluxe villas with a loved one or a group, and then step right into your own personal pool overlooking the South Sea of Korea. tel: 070-8220-9089 | web: www. Images courtesy of Hi Class Pension

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Wow Pension (Geoje)

As many of you looking at the accompanying photos have likely just said to yourself, “wow!”, these gorgeously adorned rooms with just a slight touch of cheeky in Geoje offer a great respite from the weekday nine-to-five. When the weather’s right, lay poolside, or take a dip at the nearby shore. During fall and winter months, lay back and relax in your in-room jacuzzi while the hydra jets knead out all that ails you. tel: 055-637-1821 | web: Images courtesy of Wow Pension

Tienne Spa (Ulsan)

Just south of Ulsan, Tienne Spa pension offers an upscale setting with an outdoor pool and the majority of the rooms featuring luxurious jacuzzis, ranging from a room for two to those large enough for a group. The beach is nearby, as are some great bike paths and several scenic mountain trails. The large suites, some with an upstairs and downstairs, are ideally fashioned for couples and remarkably welldecorated with a variety of interior themes to suit any taste. During non-peak season, prices range from 90-250,000 won, while peak season will run you an extra 30,000 won. tel: 010-3595-3116 | web: www.tiennepension. Images courtesy of Tienne Spa

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Melody (Namhae)

Melody bills itself as a “couples pension” and piles on the cheese with a pink royal carriage sitting on the shore that looks like it was pulled out of a Disney flick. From the outside standing on the beach, Melody looks like a scene on the French Riviera with the white units lined up side by side, but it’s inside where the place really comes to life with color-themed rooms ranging from pink to baby blue (all complete with a giant, fluffy teddy bear of course). A tad kitschy? Yes. But sometimes the warm fuzzies are most easily ignited by such trivialities. And kitsch costs. Depending on the season, look to spend anywhere from $200 to $400 a night. tel: 010-7697-1616 | web: Images courtesy of Melody

Cube Island (Geoje)

This place truly lives up to the first part of its moniker by taking architectural adventurism to the extreme with a unique design featuring each level of the structure jutting out in different directions. And while the outside is visually striking, the interior decor is equally impressive. Not for the extremes, but rather the simplicity of varied-shaped rooms that look out directly onto the water from either the window or the patio. One of the least expensive on our list of places to go, Cube Island will run you upwards of $220 a night. tel: 010-3437-9440 | web: www.cubeisland. Images courtesy of Cube Island

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Dwitree Aroma Pool Villa (Gangwon-do) Gangwon-do has some of Korea’s most stunning scenery. Dwitree’s opulent (and costly) rooms all sit on a huge pool with tapered edges that give the feel of a Southeast Asian seashore. tel: 010-6320-0760 | web:

Tacet (Tongyeong) All of the wonderfully decorated rooms offer ocean views of this artist’s hideaway town. Also known as the oyster capital of Korea, Tongyeong offers a wealth of great seafood spots at every turn. tel: 055-641-3004 | web: Tropical Dream (Geoje) With its award-winning, and downright funky architecture that looks like an art-deco artillery battery outside and a cozily adorned home, Tropical Dream is a memorable spot to stay. tel: 055-681-5550 | web:

Marizoa (Tongyeong) Another Tongyeong spot that just opened last year, Marizoa features gorgeously decorated multi-level rooms. Take the morning ferry out and dig on the hundreds of nearby islands. tel: 010-8806-5080 | www.마리조아.net (yes, you read that right)

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Going for Glory

By Jeff


This year marked 25 years since Seoul hosted the Olympic Games. Since then, South Korea has seen a continual, yet mostly unrecognized, success in the world of Olympic sports. Mid-September marked 25 years since the Seoul Olympics captured not only a nation, but the world, in what would be a coming out party for the at-the-time mostly unknown, small Northeast Asian nation. In 1981, Seoul’s victory to host the games was somewhat controversial as many Soviet Bloc countries didn’t have diplomatic relations with Korea at the time. However, the country’s economy was settling in having experienced rapid growth and industrial prowess since 1961, and the 24th Summer Olympic Games were set to showcase South Korea and its burgeoning democracy to the world. The games went off very successfully, with of course the inevitable Olympic glitches and controversies: most notably Ben Johnson becoming the disgrace of Canada for being the first athlete to have an Olympic title revoked for using a banned substance, U.S. boxer Roy Jones Jr.’s incomprehensible loss to Korean boxer Park Si-hun, and the attack of a New Zealand referee by Korean coaches and a security guard who disagreed with the decision against their fighter, Byun Il-jung, who eventually refused to leave the ring and sat in the dark, empty ring for an hour in protest. South Korea placed fourth on its home soil, its highest rank ever in the Olympic medal standings, with 33 medals including 12 gold, an impressive showing only 40 years after its first appearance as an independent nation. And the winning didn’t stop there. South Korea has since finished no less than 14th in either the 30 HAPS_fall 2013

Summer or Winter Olympics since Seoul, racking up 85 golds and 218 bronze and silvers, including three top five finishes, two of which occurred in Vancouver and London. The Korean Olympic Committee has high hopes for the next two games—the Winter Games in Sochi this coming February and the 2016 Summer Games in Rio de Janeiro before hosting at Pyeongchang in winter of 2018—and are hoping to diversify the events in which they can medal, instead of the usual strongholds of archery, shooting and taekwondo in the summer and skating events in the winter. Increased investment in the nation’s athletes and a high competitive spirit could make that dream come true. According to Korea’s previous Olympic chief, Park Yong-sung, who retired in February, the government invests around $100 million a year, in addition to receiving significant support from

the country’s leading conglomerates, including Hyundai Motor Group providing a 27-year, $26.5 million sponsorship for the archery team alone. Current president Kim Jung-haeng also has big plans for the future of the Olympic teams, announcing early this year it will allow more athletes to train overseas and have access to the best trainers available, while setting lofty goals for its future athletes. In days past, many Korean Olympic hopefuls may have taken to the archery field or skating rinks, but these days, swimming pools, gymnastics mats and even bobsled runs are grooming future aspiring champions, thanks to the KOC’s diversification of sports programs and the success of non-traditional Korean medal sports like swimmer Park Tae-hwan and the overwhelming popularity of the nations new darling, rhythmic gymnast Son Yeon-jae. While Seoul and South Korea have seen remarkable change in 25 years since becoming major world players in economics, industry and culture, its sports accomplishments have gone relatively unnoticed. Figure skater Kim Yu-na and LA Dodgers pitcher Ryu Hyun-jin are just a couple of past Olympic athletes who have become household names and are bringing Korean athletes to the forefront of the sporting world. Korean’s success in golf, baseball, soccer and their Olympic programs have also inspired a passion and ‘can-do’ attitude in regular people that resonate in everyday life, not to mention an increased marketability in Korean athletes abroad. Their names or faces aren’t as recognizable as, say, Usain Bolt, but 25 years after hosting their first Olympics, they’re continuing to succeed and the KOC are striving to build future medalwinning athletes and programs to nurture sport and health. And to them, that’s all that matters. The 2014 Sochi Winter Olympics take place February 7-23 and can be watched on SBS TV.




The Perfect Getaway Story By Jeff


With a plethora of high-end resorts to choose from in Phuket, the Avista Hideaway Resort and Spa stands out above the rest. Finding a beautiful resort to stay in Thailand is easy. Find- with custom bedding, indoor and outdoor showers with bath, ing a resort with a commitment to revolutionize your vacation kitchen facilities, two 40’ LED TVs, free Wi-Fi, an iPod docking experience is something that makes you redefine your expecta- station, daybed and the pièce de résistance—a large private pool tions when selecting a luxury stay. with jets overlooking the Andaman Sea. I was fortunate enough this summer to to stay at the ultraWith many resorts on the island focusing on well-being, Avista luxurious Avista Hideaway Spa and Resort in Phuket, which steps it up a notch to ensure both body and mind relaxation. Dr. is perched on a lush peak overlooking Tri Trang and Patong Alvin James heads the wellness experience with yoga classes, beaches. recreation activities and an authentic Ayurvedic Spa, which inHaving stayed at five-star resorts in the Southeast-Asian coun- cludes Thai and Indian massage options—perfect for getting try before, I had an assumption of what to expect. But from the over your jet lag and an experience not to be missed. The resort minute I was picked up at the airport by a personal butler, which takes pride in its wellness experience, offering sleep therapy comes included with your stay, those expectations were thrown programs, professional health advice and personalized menus out the window. to suit to your body’s needs. After a 50 minute drive, I arrived at the property and was greeFor those who are looking for something to do without leavted with breathtaking vistas offering spectacular views across ing the resort, there is plenty to do whether you’re a couple the Andaman Sea on one side, for relaxation, or a fambreathtaking vistas offering spectacular views looking and the exquisite backdrop of ily looking for something to do across the Andaman Sea on one side, and the surrounding virgin jungle with the kids as the resort is on the other. equipped with a fully equipped the exquisite backdrop of the surrounding All of the assumed amenigym, a library with computer virgin jungle on the other. ties and comforts were in access, kid’s club and a games place—a private beach club, three swimming pools with swim- room. If you want to get away for a night on the town, the craziup bar service and luxurious dining options courtesy of head ness of Patong is a short five minute taxi ride, though it seems chef Tim Westaway—while the property was designed in a way like a million miles away. to offer privacy and tranquillity in as many areas as possible. It If you’re looking to spend a few bucks more on your next acalso included a range of tropical orchids, Zen gardens on roof- commodation, rooms run from about 200,000 for the Buena Vistops and walls, plus an organic herb garden for fresh produce in ta to 500,000 won per night for the duplex jacuzzi suite on their the kitchens. website, about 75% cheaper than the rack rate. Don’t be scared With a stunning exterior made for postcard pictures, the rooms by the price—it’s definitely worth every penny. interior did not disappoint. Styled by the heritage and legends Contact: Avista Hideaway, 50/9 Muen Ngern Road, Patong, of southern Thailand’s fishing villages, spice traders and mounAmphur Kathu, Phuket 83150. +66 76 681 681. tain dwellers with a touch of Indian elegance to boot, the 145 sq meter indoor-outdoor room I stayed in featured a king-size bed 32 HAPS_fall 2013


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Museums in Busan Photography and Story by Chelsea


The weather is getting colder and for a lot of us, going outside is no longer an option for more than a few minutes. Museums offer a cozy refuge featuring history, culture and of course, warmth. Once you set about looking, there are some pretty cool museums to be found around Busan. From toy to folk museums, history to culture, not to mention the number of university museums on offer. Here are some of the big ones, and a couple of wild cards. Happily, all of them are free and you can be back before dark, leaving you with plenty of time and cash to toss back a beer with friends while basking in the smugness of being such a cultured individual.

as it is informative. You are greeted at the entrance by a large whale statue and a green mermaid riding a shark. And this is just the beginning! Head inside and it is filled with Busan’s finest, funniest and most frightening taxidermy of any creature that lives on, under, or even near the water. Delve further inside and it gets a little stranger, with a small, excruciatingly small, reptile house and aquarium; although the animals do look to be in good condition. This museum is definitely worth the trip, but after the eerie taxidermy mausoleum, some much needed respite National Maritime Museum This museum is huge, absolutely massive, and super modern— is required. Head behind the museum to the tranquil Geumit looks like the Starship Enterprise has landed. Built in 2012, gang Park with its leafy walkways and picturesque temples. A it’s the third largest museum in South Korea and has lots to of- short walk further will bring you to Geumgang Mountain’s cable fer. On the 1st floor is the special exhibition hall that changes car ride up to great city views. themes roughly every six months—currently exhibiting the ef- Opening times: Tues-Fri 9am - 6pm fects of climate change. Head upstairs and you’ll be surprised to Getting there: Take Metro line 1 to Dongnae station, Exit 4, then find a small walk-through aquarium and a shallow pool where take bus No. 1-1 straight there. you can actually touch baby sharks. There are also boat simu- Busan Museum lation games, a small 4D cinema and a large scale model of Yi Open in 1978 and extended in 2002, the first exhibition hall is Sun-shin’s famed turtle ship. While the location is a little out of currently being remodelled for opening in the new year. That the way, the website offers great information on what else is on said, there is still a vast amount on offer. There are life-size modoffer in the area, such as Gamji Seaside Walk and Mount Bong- el displays of traditional Korean inns and workshops, plus internaesan. active videos, holograms and intricate models. The real gem, Opening times: Tues-Fri 9am-6pm Sat 9am - 9pm Sun 9am - 7pm (closed Mondays) Getting there: Take Metro line 1 to Nampo station, Exit 6. The No. 66 bus takes you straight there. Busan Marine Natural History Museum Opened in 1992, this is the first and largest specialized marine natural history museum in South Korea and probably as weird 34 HAPS_fall 2013

however, is the Culture Experience Center. Here you can make rubbings of traditional Korean designs, called the Takbon Experience, try on traditional Korean costumes and learn the basics of the tea ceremony. All with the help of the most cheerful and informative museum guides we’ve come across. Outside, there is a scenic walk up to the Busan Culture Center (where you may be accompanied by a musical ajjeoshi or two) which offers a great view of the city. The UN Cemetery is also connected to the museum via the UN sculpture walkway. Make a whole day of it!

Opening times: 9am - 6pm, closed on Mondays Getting there: Take Metro line 2 to Daeyeon, Exit 3 then walk 5 mins in the direction of the UN Rotary. Also buses 134, 68, 138 and 51 stop just 5 mins walk away. Bokcheom Museum Focusing on the excavation of tombs from the Silla and Gaya periods, this museum highlights the historical importance of the Dongnae area. An impressive structure set into the foot of the mountain with the tombs stretching out before it, this museum is great to walk around and take in the views. Inside, the model displays are informative, one even showing a step by step guide on tomb construction—always a handy skill to have. Walk outside and the tombs stretch out over the hillside, with a domed structure allowing you to look down upon two excavated areas, where you can rather chillingly see the bones of an attendant buried alive with his lord. In the vicinity, there is also the Dongnae-Eupsong History Museum and the North Gate Plaza of Dongnae Fortress, location of the opening round of the Imjin War, which are also well worth a look. Opening times: 9am - 8pm, closed every Monday Getting there: Take Metro line 1 to Dongnae, Exit 4, then take bus No. 6 to the museum.

Gamcheon Culture Village While the focus on this outdoor ‘museum’ is on the quirky art to be found nestled between the houses, the history of this place is just as interesting. Once home to hundreds of refugees fleeing south during the Korean War, the ramshackle makeshift dwellings developed over the years into the maze of houses you see now, which makes a refreshing change from the city’s skyscrapers. Follow the arty fish arrows and you will wind your way around the village, from the ‘House of Peace’ to the book cafe, and even some trick art that blends seamlessly into the landscape. Artists have been returning yearly to Gamcheon Village since 2009, transforming abandoned buildings into unique art installations. The majority of residents welcome the rejuvenation, one lady saying the area is livelier and prettier thanks to the new investment, although taking care not to wander onto private property is greatly appreciated. Opening times: 9am - 6pm Getting there: Take Metro line 1 to Toseong station, Exit 8. Walk straight to the PNU Cancer Center then take bus No. 2-2 or 2 and get off at the Gamcheon Elementary School at the top.

Provincial Capital Memorial Hall Opened as a memorial hall in 1984, this was the location of Korea’s provincial capital during the Korean War under President Syngman Rhee from 1950 to 1953. A beautiful building with a mix of western, Japanese and Korean styles, the original layout has been preserved, providing an insight into daily presidential life. Most impressive are the two video presentations, available in English, in the ‘Room of Thought.’ They focus on the life of Busan’s 500,000 war refugees with original film footage depicting their harrowing ordeal. Continue through the hallways and the dapper gentleman guide is on hand to fill you in on the president and his western wife, Francesca. Behind the hall is the theater, which really comes to grips with refugee life, showing the resilience of these people who managed to retain industry, culture and education at this edge of the war torn peninsula. Opening hours: 9am - 6pm Getting there: Take Metro line 1 to Toseong, Exit 2, then it’s a five minute walk following the brown signs. 2013 fall _ 35

Busan People


During his nearly ten years in office as the Mayor of Haeundae, Bae Duk-kwang has overseen the development of what has become one of Asia’s premier beachfront areas.


riginally from Dong-eup in Changwon, Bae Duk-kwang first came to Busan to get his Bachelors degree in Business Administration at Dong-A University. Bae would later go on to receive a Ph.D from Kyungsung University before settling into his first government job as a revenue officer. Fast forward to June 2004 and Bae, still working for the city, found himself elected mayor of one of the world’s fastest growing and most dynamic areas; Haeundae. Home to the tallest residential apartments in Asia, the world’s largest department store, the largest film festival on the continent and more, Haeundae has become a model of development and the envy of other municipalities around the country. Coming up on his 10th year in office while holding a steady eye on what’s next, the 65-year-old mayor sat down with Haps to talk about his tenure at the helm of Haeundae and what the future holds for Korea’s favorite beach city. 36 HAPS_fall 2013

The Haeundae area is home to the most eye-catching architecture in Busan, such as the apartment complexes in Marine City, Nurimaru APEC House and the Cinema Center. What are some of the construction projects planned for the near future? As more people from abroad visit Busan and we’ve become a core convention location, hotels are flourishing in Haeundae. Haeundae LCT (the new development at the end of Haeundae Beach) is a great example of that. It will be a 101-story building where hotels and other facilities will be housed and there will also be two 85-story residential buildings constructed by 2017. Additionally, hotels, residential buildings, amusement parks, sports facilities, shopping areas, and water parks will be built. Three hundred and ninety billion won ($362 million) in Japanese capital from ‘Segasami Busan’ has been invested to construct a 39-story, five-star hotel and a business hotel in Centum City by 2016. Besides hotels, there will be city sight-

seeing facilities, including a digital theme park, an interactive entertainment park, shopping malls and outlets. Sometimes rapid development creates new problems. What are some of your pressing concerns and some of the difficulties with Haeundae’s rapid growth? Now we are faced with traffic congestion because it takes quite a bit of time and money to improve traffic systems, whereas Haeundae developed so rapidly. We anticipated there would be traffic problems. To cope with this, we have planned how to improve congestion through research and investigation beginning in 2008, and gave our recommendations to the Busan City government. Adopting our suggestions, the city government established a future traffic plan and allocated experts to address the problem. Additionally, in July of last year, we established a back streets traffic flow team to help identify ways to detour traffic using existing streets when the main roads are congested.

Community Corner Most people consider Haeundae to be a “summer city.” What features does it offer that make it worth visiting during the fall and winter seasons? We have been discussing many different ways to instill the image of ‘The City of Four Seasons or ‘Haeundae, the Tourist Attraction that You Won’t Want to Miss.’ We have four marine leisure facilities that will soon complete construction, where you can enjoy marine sports during all four seasons. The three facilities, including Songjeong Beach Marine Leisure Center near Jookdo Park and the Marine Leisure Control House near Gudeokpo, also in Songjeong, will be completed along with the Suyoung Riverside Marina later this year. Additionally, construction of the Marine Leisure Base around Dongbaekseom Island will be completed by next March. These facilities allow you to enjoy different kinds of marine sports activities including surfing, yachting, scuba diving, row boats, water shuttle bikes, jet skiing, and banana boat rides. With the completion of those facilities, Haeundae will become a mecca for marine leisure. Furthermore, the Busan Cinema Center, the home of BIFF, is bringing more people from abroad and around Korea to Haeundae since its beginning. We are moving ahead with the construction of Cinema Avenue to provide more attractions along with the Cinema Center. The plan is to make an 800 meter long seaside street between Hyundai iPark and Adelis in Marine City with 120 million won of government money. We will install sculptures, film roll-shaped information boards and wave-shaped pergolas. We are also planning to make sculptures of scenes and stars from 12 well-known movies that were filmed in Busan. Through all these plans, we will make it a world-famous attraction that symbolizes the movie city of Haeundae.

and 24,000 more jobs in my current term. Not only have we attracted major companies such as Shinsegae Department Store, Lotte Department Store and Jaseng Hospital of Oriental Medicine, but also required them to give priority to Haeundae citizens during recruitment, which creates more jobs here. We are especially focusing on creating high-quality jobs by attracting global high-tech companies including Accenture, Steelflower and DIO. However, I think our efforts to create more jobs is not enough to halt the decrease in population in the entire city. The Busan City government should join us in making and fulfilling bigger plans. One example would be President Park Geun-hye’s recent discussions concerning the Eurasia Railroad with Russian President Putin in Russia. I believe that Busan is in a position to become a gateway city when this is realized. Starting from Busan and going through North Korea, the Eurasia Railroad will be connected to the Trans-Siberian Railroad, allowing Busan to act as a gateway of distribution to Europe. We expect this to provide a great opportunity for Busan to become a distribution hub city, extending its influence to the world beyond the Pacific Rim. Additionally, I firmly believe that the new international airport should be built in Gadeokdo (in the west of Busan), to be developed as a base of air transport. I feel that all these plans will assure that Busan becomes the second largest marine city in Northeast Asia and remain the second biggest city in Korea, which will result in Busan becoming a megacity with more than four million people.

No one believed me when I claimed that I would build Haeundae into a world-class city at the beginning of my career as mayor. Now, people recognize the achievement.

There has been talk by the central government of moving the Korean film industry to Haeundae. How is that progressing? On September 10th, the Korea Media Rating Board moved their offices into the Busan Visual Industry Center in Centum City from Sangam in Seoul. The Game Administration Board, formerly known as the Game Rating Board, commences business from October 17th in the same building, and the Korean Film Council will temporarily move to the Centum Campus of Kyungnam College of Information and Technology on October 25th and operate their business there until moving to their own building next to the Busan Cinema Center in 2015.

You have been the mayor of Haeundae for nearly 10 years. What are your political plans for the future? Will you be seeking other elected offices? I will consider my political future after consulting with more citizens, thank you.

Each year, thousands of residents leave Busan to live in Seoul. What can the government do to encourage people to stay in Busan? The fact that people leave Busan for Seoul means there are not enough jobs in Busan. Working as the Haeundae Mayor for three terms, I pledged to create more jobs. That was my most important promise and I have never let go of it. As a result, companies here created 10,000 new jobs during my first two terms, 2013 fall_ 37

Dining & Food


Story and Photography By Jen Sotham Jen shares some of her favorite twists on traditional Korean foods. One of the things that has made living in Korea such an interesting journey is that it bears all the traits of a treasure hunt. When I first arrived in 2006, items like sour cream, cheddar cheese and chick peas were a rare find, not to mention expensive. As the food landscape broadened, many of us expats have focused on finding restaurants that do good western food. Who does the best taco? The most authentic Italian? Best brunch? When talking about their favorites, I often heard the statement ‘It’s not like home, but it’s the closest thing.’ In the past year or so, however, I’ve started to hear more and more, ‘It’s awesome, even compared to home.’ With the western restaurants hitting a new plateau, restaurant owners have turned toward a new trend: fusion. Increasingly interesting dishes are popping up that offer an international twist on traditional Korean fare, or vice versa. Here are three stand out menu items that have got me looking forward to riding this new wave of creative cuisine.

KIMCHI BULGOGI CHEESE FRIES, FAIR MOUTH, SEOMYEON Finally! Just what I’ve been waiting for! A restaurant with a dental theme! All joking aside, this kitschy Seomyeon haunt came highly recommended by my good friend, fellow foodie and Haps fashion writer, Christy Swain. Though most of the dishes (such as the delicious Miso Gorgonzola Quesadilla) on the limited menu are actually Japanese-Mexican fusion, the standout has origins in neither country. The ‘Fair Mouth Fries’, topped with thin slices of beef, diced kimchi and shredded cheddar cheese, are a party in your mouth. All of the foods I’ve tasted at Fair Mouth have offered truly unique flavor combinations. However, I’d steer clear of the ‘fusion’ beers, which were simply crappy beer with cherry or coffee syrup. Getting there: A little tricky to find. Seomyeon exit 2 (Judie’s Taewha). Pass Judie’s and continue down the street until you see H&M. First left past H&M, all the way down on left side. Look for the mouth logo and dentist’s chair.

CHEESY KIMCHI JUN, CHUN TAK, KSU This is one of those places that, when I decided to write about it, a little voice in my head told me not to...simply because it’s already such a popular spot with both students and expats and, selfishly, I don’t want it to get too crowded. In a stroke of genius, Lee Sung-jae, fondly known by Chun Tak’s regulars as ‘Tony,’ took kimchi pancakes to the next level by smothering them in melted Mozzarella cheese. The result is akin to kimchi pizza, and a perfect companion to the cheap, whopping bowls of steamed mussels and magkeolli on offer. Expect a short wait at peak times and don’t go alone. Last time I ate a cheesy kimchi jun on my own, I left feeling like a dwae-jee. Getting there: Kyungsung/Pukyoung University Subway (Green Line 212), exit 5, walk straight until you pass Burger King. First left after Burger King, Chun Tak is on the next corner on the left. 38 HAPS_fall 2013

BIBIM MANDU, KIMBAP CHEONGUK, JUNGDONG Never did I imagine that I’d feature Kimbap Heaven in one of my articles. Don’t get me wrong—the K.C. has been a staple for me, and the fact that each one is independently-owned does vary the shop-to-shop experience. That said, it’s rare that a new never-before-seen menu item appears. I don’t know how widespread this new dish is, but I’ve heard reports of it popping up on a few K.C. menus around town. There’s nothing particularly new or exciting in terms of flavor about the Bibim Mandu—it’s more about the experience. Modeled after the Vietnamese D.I.Y. rolls, Bibim Mandu is simply a plate of fried dumpling wrappers served with a mountain of shredded vegetables in spicy gochujang (red pepper paste). Perhaps the best thing about it is that there is finally a vegetarian option for dumpling lovers. Getting there: Just outside Jungdong (Green Line 202) exit 5 on the ground floor of the Young Poong Regency Building.

Home Cooking

THE DISH: MATT’S CHOCOLATE MOUSSE BY MATTHEW SIDGREAVES Chocolate mousse is one of those desserts that, when done right, makes a lasting impression. After tasting the mousse my friend had whipped up for a birthday party last month, I begged him for his recipe. Here’s our guest gourmet, Matt Sidgreaves’ easy to follow secret to a mouthwatering cup of chocolate heaven.

CHOCOLATE MOUSSE PREPARATION TIME: 10 MINUTES COOKING TIME: 10 MINUTES, PLUS AN HOUR OR SO FOR CHILLING. SERVES 4 INGREDIENTS: 75g of dark chocolate 2 eggs, separated 25g of butter, melted 2 tbsp of sugar 1 tbsp of 복분자 (Korean raspberry liqueur, optional) DIRECTIONS: Break and separate the yolk and white of the eggs. In a large bowl, whisk the whites until they have formed into stiff peaks (you should be able to hold the bowl upside down over your head!). Add the sugar to the whites and combine. Break up the chocolate and place in a heatproof bowl. Place the bowl over a pan of gently simmering water. Making sure that the water does not touch the bowl. Stir occasionally until the chocolate has melted. Whilst the chocolate is melting, gently melt the butter over a low flame, making sure it doesn’t brown. Remove the bowl from the heat and let stand for a couple of minutes to cool. Next, add the eggs to the melted chocolate, stir them quickly to make sure they don’t cook from the heat of the chocolate. Add the melted butter to the mix and the raspberry liqueur, if using. For an added kick, add a little extra splash of 복분자! Now you want to fold in the egg whites. This should be done slowly and never more than a couple of tablespoons at a time. Don’t stir them in, you just have to gently fold them in with the chocolate. Once finished, transfer the mixture to small glasses or bowls and place in the fridge to set. When it sets, the mousse should be soft, light and airy. Note: Lotte ‘Premium Ghana Black’ chocolate is highly recommended for this recipe. 2013 fall_ 39

Music Scene

NOTES FROM A NORAEBANG NERD OK, I’ll just come out and say it: Back home in Portland, Oregon, I was a karaoke nerd. Every Thursday my friends and I went to The Ambassador, sang the songs we’d practiced at home, and saw the best and worst karaoke performances on the face of the earth. It only followed that in Korea I’ve become a noraebang nerd, always trying to lure my friends into small rooms with purple couches and tambourines. Whether this makes me an authority or not, I’ll leave up to you. But, I have put together some do’s and don’ts to help you get the most out of your night in the bang. THE DO’S 1. Encourage others to sing, but don’t pressure them. Sing duets with shy friends. Let your Korean friends know that you’d love to hear them sing in Korean. 2. Dance, perform, and act silly. Shake that tambourine. Take advantage of instrumental breaks for some killer air guitar or an interpretive dance. The crazier you get, the freer others will feel to do the same. 3. Know the words to your songs. You might even consider practicing songs at home or in one of those tiny noraebang 40 HAPS_fall 2013

By Jennifer Howell Photography By Lee Gumienny

booths you’ll find in every arcade. It’s a great way to kill half an hour before your movie starts. 4. Some great group songs include: “It’s My Life,” “Smells Like Teen Spirit,” “Wannabe,” “Africa,” “Mr. Brightside,” and “The Middle.” THE DON’TS 1. Don’t sing too much – I would be happy to sing for three hours straight — if that would be fun for anyone else. But since I’m not actually Freddy Mercury, I only put another song in once my crooning comrades have reserved their next song. 2. Don’t share a song without asking – Sometimes people want to sing solo. So before hopping in on “Bette Davis Eyes,” make sure it’s kosher. If you do grab the second mic, don’t sing so loudly that your partner can’t be heard. Follow their lead, and let them be the star of their own song. 3. Don’t drink too much. My worst noraebang night ever featured a very drunk woman who was both off-key and so off-rhythm that she never sang one word at the correct moment. She wailed loudly on everyone else’s songs, forcing me to hide the second mic, and she sang

an egregious version of “Purple Rain” that made doves cry. 3. Don’t trash the noraebang. Don’t hang off chandeliers, dance on unstable tables, or make a mess you’d be ashamed to make at a friend’s house. No one wants to pay for your damages or sit in spilled beer! 4. Ask before smoking. A small, confined space where you exercise your lungs is not the best location for smoking. In fact, it’s the worst. 5. Don’t senselessly overload the queue. You don’t want to reach that moment where someone says, “Who the hell put this song in? How do we cancel it? Where’s the cancel button?” Don’t cause that moment. 6. Skip “American Pie” and “Like a Rolling Stone.” They are boring to listen to—long, repetitive and overplayed. “Don’t Stop Believing” is acceptable, if only because it’s the US Karaoke National Anthem. Exercise extreme caution with “Bohemian Rhapsody.” In the end, the best noraebang nights are not about great singers but about great camaraderie. I hope these guidelines help you get the most out of one of Korea’s definitive nightlife experiences.

Nightlife & Music


Ailee - A’s Doll House (Ailee 02) Reviewed By James Turnbull Ailee grew up in the States, and it shows. If most K-pop is just too saccharine for your tastes, check out a performer whose own idol is Beyoncé, and who shows she’s well on her way to having the style, confidence, and vocal talent to match. These are all displayed in the lead track “U&I,” a ferocious, full-on display of showmanship that frankly had this reviewer confused that he wasn’t watching Knowles herself. Rather than in the retro-themed MV however, it’s in her live performances where her voice really shines, proving she’s no mere pretty K-pop clone. This carries through in “Scandal,” which will likewise leave a

visceral impact, whereas it’s the clarity of her vocals that stands out in “How Could You.” As a ballad though, the latter comes as a bit of a let-down, and leaves no lasting impression. Much the same can be said of “Rainy Days,” but some listeners may appreciate the variety of genres. This continues with the more traditional pop effort “No No No,” which wisely puts its weight on the vocals, and finally my guilty, bubblegum pleasure “I’ll be Okay,” again disconcerting for being K-pop…but not. Overall, a solid, mature effort from a still very youthful, rookie singer. But here’s hoping she focuses more on her strengths in Ailee 03.



Lightning Bolt October 14

The Marshall Mathers LP 2 November 5

Two years in the making, the band’s tenth studio album is aiming to remind people how good Pearl Jam can be. Let’s see how that works out as Eddie Vedder and company do it again.

THE ARCADE FIRE Reflekto October 28 Produced by James Murphy of LCD Soundsystem, the fourth studio album by the Canadian indie rock group features an experimental rhythm section.

The 8th studio album from Eminem and the follow up to his third album, The Marshall Mathers LP 2 features appearances from 50 Cent, Kendrick Lamar and Rick Rubin.

KELLER WILLIAMS FUNK November 12 A live collection of “funked up” versions of originals and some covers, Williams says, “It’s no typical white boy funk that one may expect from this typical white boy.” 2013 fall_ 41

Music Scene


IN BUSAN By Seth Fellenz

Whether or not you’ve realized it, jazz is one of those necessities in life. Seth Fellenz takes a look at some spots around town to soak in some good tunes. Some cities are indelibly bound to a specific style of music—Chicago has the blues, Detroit has Motown, Nashville has country, Vienna has classical and San Juan has salsa. But every city has a jazz club tucked away somewhere within its borders; likely dimly lit with a small stage and a smoky feel, even in these smoke-free times. There is something about this music that makes it unique and places jazz in its own corner of the music world. “Jazz seems exclusive,” says guitarist Gino Brann, “but I think it should be more enjoyable when it’s done right.” While other musical styles have lyrics to sing along to or a catchy hook that sticks in your ear, jazz requires a bit more patience. Says Brann, “You need a jazz club in the same way you need an art museum.” As I walk into Busan’s Jazz Cat, a middleaged man greets me so enthusiastically that I am sure he is the owner. “Hi! Hello! Yes, come in! Welcome!” As he invites me to sit with him and his friends, I catch a glimpse of a disheveled man behind the bar with a wry smile on his face. As my new friend, Choi, informs me that the music has just finished, the quiet man behind the bar approaches. 42 HAPS_fall 2013

“This is the owner,” announces Choi. Justin Lee extends his smile in lieu of a handshake, and we half-sit, half-lean against the bar. With a couple cozying up in the back corner, two or three young men sitting next to the stage, and a group of regulars at the center table, Jazz Cat isn’t busy on this random Tuesday night, which is just how Justin likes it. I ask him why he opened a jazz club, and a regular chimes in, “Money! To make money!” Justin smiles and shakes his head, saying that he is happy if the club makes money, but he opened it because he simply loves the music. Jazz Cat is a place for people who love music. Justin, who also composes and plays, opened his first jazz club, Carpe Diem, three years ago in Changwon, and started a small, annual jazz fest there. When the bartender asks how many instruments he plays, Justin pauses a moment before simply holding his hands wide and spreading them above his head. And he plays well. While I discuss music with the bartender, Choi and the three young men take their positions on stage, and begin warming up. Justin grabs a worn upright bass from the corner and sits in with them. As the music starts, all eyes turn toward the group

Nightlife & Music of players, and, unbelievably, everyone in a Kyungsung bar falls The nightly lineup now consists of a rotation of about fifteen silent. regular local bands and jazz projects, with an occasional tourThe atmosphere is as laid back as any venue in Kyungsung, ing act from Seoul or Japan taking the stage. There is no other providing a spot to relax and unwind. Every other Monday fea- place in Busan to see the caliber of music that happens at Monk. tures a jazz jam with some of Busan’s finest musicians. The bar The celebrated group Page One has pared their schedule occasionally books touring bands, but most nights are de facto down to every other Tuesday, but they remain among the most open mic nights, providing a space for anyone to bring an in- impressive jazz ensembles in town. A Monday night jam promstrument and play. Some of these novices will no doubt end up ises something different every week, and Jazz Point is a higharound the corner; on stage at the neighborhoods other jazz light of alternating Saturdays. After the night’s act has finished, bar, Monk. the stage is open for anyone The oldest jazz club in who wants to play. WHILE THERE ARE CERTAIN FORMS Busan, Monk has the wellWhile there are certain forms THAT HAVE A MORE MODERN FEEL, earned reputation as the best that have a more modern feel, THE ART AND WHAT IT MEANS STAY THE in town (more than one muthe art and what it means stay sician described the sound as SAME ‑ MAKING JAZZ A TIMELESS GENRE. the same — making jazz a time‘impeccable’). The old chalkless genre. And while nearly board calendar has been AND WHILE NEARLY EVERY STYLE OF MUSIC every style of music has room to replaced by a much more HAS ROOM TO AD-LIB, JAZZ IS DEFINED BY IT. ad-lib, jazz is defined by it. modern whiteboard, but evTrumpet player Gordon Bazsaery date is still just as full. With live music every night from 9 to li Jr. tells me, “There are some musicians who can’t not wing it. 11 and jazz-related documentaries and concert videos playing The improvisation is baked into the pie.” Whereas other genres before and after, there is no mistaking it for a typical bar. Even may allow musicians some space, says Bazsali, “jazz demands during occasional moments of silence, this dim, candle-lit base- free playing.” ment screams ‘jazz.’ As I watch another group on stage at Jazz Cat, this is remarkOpened in 1992 by a local doctor and jazz aficionado, Monk ably clear. While the drummer seems to play with his eyes has stood the test of time. When I ask sound engineer Yang closed, the guitarist and trumpet player read sheet music. After Don-kyu why that is, he laughs, telling me that Monk’s long his- a couple times through the main theme, and with no visible sigtory is due to the pride the owners take in operating a ’cultural nal from anyone, the trumpet solo begins. As the guitarist takes place.’ While the room is rarely full on a typical weeknight, there his turn, I tell myself that I saw them give each other a look, but are customers of all ages and backgrounds. According to Yang, I’m not entirely sure. Talented musicians simply know when it’s “The customers usually like music, money and sex.” time to move on.

2013 fall_ 43

Hotel Directory & News

Hotel Events and News

Whether you are looking for a comfortable place to lay your head, somewhere to enjoy a good meal or throw back a few cocktails, here’s what’s happening at some of our favorite local hotels.

Park Hyatt Busan

51, Marine City 1-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan ph. 051-990-1234

Make it a romantic affair and relax with the Park Hyatt’s Autumn Package. You can enjoy spacious and comfortable accommodations, along with a complimentary afternoon tea set at the Living Room which boasts a spectacular view of the ocean. Offer expires November 30.

Novotel Hotel

1405-16 Jung-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan ph. 051-746-8481 web.

Dine with an elegant Korean-style lunch from noon until 3 p.m. at the hotel’s lobby-level restaurant, Seascapes, during weekdays. The restaurant also features an unlimited wine and beer buffet until the end of December.

Seacloud Hotel

287 Haeundaehaebyun-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan tel: 82-51-742 2121 web:

The Seacloud Hotel offers a ‘Family Package’ this autumn in its half and full ocean rooms with discounts on food and the hotel’s facilities for the entire family until November 30th.

Paradise Hotel

1408-5 Jung-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan 051-742-2121

Bask in the ‘Scent of Autumn’ at the hotel’s immaculately designed Japanese restaurant Sakae, with a vast selection of meals featuring the autumn matsutake, or pine mushroom, which is prized for its distinct spicy-aromatic odor. 44 HAPS_fall 2013

Lotte Hotel

772 Gayadae-ro, Jin-gu, Busan ph. 051-810-1000 web.

La Siene, the lobby level wine and fine dining restaurant, offers a four-course meal featuring a grilled filet mignon steak and pan fried halibut along with seasonal desserts prepared by their excellent chefs.

Accomodation Guide

Hotel Directory

Looking for a place to stay when visiting Busan? Find it with the Haps hotel directory, your local English guide to accomodation in the city. HAEUNDAE THE WESTIN CHOSUN tel: 82-51-749-7000 web: Do it right and crash in the same room George W. Bush did. PARADISE HOTEL tel: 82-51-742 2121 web: On the water, with a casino, excellent spa and a pool. SEACLOUD HOTEL tel: 82-51-933-1000 web: Luxury stay with great restaurants. Short walk to the beach. CENTUM HOTEL tel: 82-51-720-9000 web: Near Shinsegae and BEXCO. Good subway access. SUNSET HOTEL tel: 82-51-730-9900 web: Seventy-two rooms with, according to the site, “individual design concepts”. NOVOTEL AMBASSADOR tel: 82-51-743-1234 web: On the beach. Great ocean view, Murpii Nightclub. GRAND HOTEL tel: 82-51-740-0610 web: One of the cheaper spots on the strip, but still at the beach. GUNOH SEACLOUD HOTEL tel: 82-51-933-4300 web: Luxury stay with great restaurants. Short walk to the beach. HANWHA RESORT tel: 82-1588-2299 web: Beautiful views of Oryukdo, the bridge and close to the beach. PARK HYATT BUSAN tel: 82-51-990-1234 web: Five star quality hotel with stunning views and service.

SEOMYEON LOTTE HOTEL tel: 82-51-810-1000 web: Lotte runs a tight ship and it shows in the generous customer service here.

TOYOKO INN tel: 82-51-442-1045 web: Across from D City, comfortable, clean and affordable. CROWN HOTEL tel: 82-51-635-1241 web: Mid-range hotel decorated in Korean style, good for travellers.

GWANGALLI HOMERS HOTEL tel: 82-51-750-8000 web: Right on Gwangalli Beach amidst the myriad of cafes, bars and restaurants. AQUA PALACE tel: 82-51-756-0202 web: Beautiful view of the Diamond Bridge, right in the middle of the beach.

JUNG-GU COMMODORE HOTEL tel: 82-51-461-9703 web: Beautifully designed traditional hotel. Close proximity to Busan Station. BUSAN TOURIST HOTEL tel: 82-51-241-4301 web: Conveniently located next to the train station. Good for a cheap night’s rest. TOYOKO INN tel: 82-51-442-1045 web: Affordably priced hotel, clean and 10 minutes away from the train station. PHOENIX HOTEL tel: 82-51-245-8061 web: Highly trained staff, close to Nampodong. Popular with Japanese tourists. ELYSEE HOTEL tel: 82-51-241-4008 web: Affordable hotel with good amenities. Close to Nampo-dong.

BUSAN STATION GUKJE HOTEL tel: 82-51-642-1330 web: About 3 km away from the train station, close to Citizen’s Hall. TOYOKO INN tel: 82-51-442-1045 web:

The second location, this one is a minute away from the train station.

OTHER AREAS PARAGON HOTEL [Sasang-gu] tel: 82-51-328-2001 web: Business comfort, with close proximity to Gimhae International Airport.

HI KOREA HOSTEL tel: 070-4409-3132 web: email: Your home away from home, Hi Korea Hostel offers you an affordable and comfortable accommodation just a stone’s throw away from Haeundae Beach.

BUSAN CENTRAL HOTEL [Yeonsan-dong] tel: 82-51- 866-6225 web: Adjacent to Yeonsan rotary, located 10 minutes away from City Hall. HOTEL NONGSHIM [Oncheonjeong] tel: 82-51-550-2100 web: Great area around the hotel. Head north to PNU for original Busan nightlife.

BUDGET BUSAN YOUTH HOSTEL ARPINA [Haeundae] tel: 82-51-731-9800 web: Opened in 2004, a cheap place to stay for the night. Culture center inside. GOODSTAY THE PLANET GUESTHOUSE [Haeundae] tel: 010-2780-6350 web: Women-only dormitory across from Haeundae Beach in the Crystal Beach Office Tel. INDY HOUSE [Kyungsung Uni] tel: 82-70-8615-6442 Super cheap, dorm-style room right in the heart of Kyungsung. MARUB GUEST HOUSE [Haeundae] tel: 010-6322-3194 web: Well-placed near restaurants, commercial area in Haeundae. POBI GUEST HOUSE [Haeundae] tel: 051-746-7990 web: Renovated guest houses three minutes from Haeundae Beach. SUM GUEST HOUSE tel: 070-8837-0700 web: Renovated in 2011, they guarantee guests a pleasant stay whether in Busan for business or pleasure. HELLO GUEST HOUSE [Haeundae] tel: 051-746-8590 web: Friendly, clean and cozy atmosphere. Outdoor patio for your enjoyment. 2013 fall_ 45

Nightlife & Dining Directory

GWANGALLI BEACH BIKINI [Lounge/Beer Bar] Spacious club with dancing and such. BEACHED CAFE AND SPORTS BAR [Kiwi Sports Bar] open: 6pm - late tel: 051-924-9662 web: beached-cafe-sports-bar Recently renovated, this Kiwi-run sports bar has gained a huge expat following in the second year of existence for its spectacular bridge view, delicious menu and its wide array of Kiwi beer, the only place in the city to boast such a claim. Rugby is the sport of choice on the TV for the punters. BELLA CITTA [Italian] tel: 051-711-0010 web: Italian restaurant with an incredible interior, top notch menu and indoor garden seating. BURGER AND PASTA [International] open: 11am - 2am tel: 051-751-6631 web: The second of the Burger and Pasta shops around the city, this international eatery offers a great view of the bridge while you enjoy your day on the sand. Burgers, pasta and brunch are on the menu in the stylishly decorated restaurant in the middle of the main drag of Gwangalli Beach. FOUR SEASONS [Raw Fish Korean] English speaking owner, 2nd fl. Fish Market. FUZZY NAVEL- MILLAK [Food/Bar] open: 11am - 6am tel: 051-754-6349 web: It has fabulous views of Gwangalli Beach. Facing the Diamond Bridge, come enjoy a drink and some tacos on our patio. Great staff serve fresh made Mexican cuisine and will mix up your favorite cocktail. FUZZY NAVEL- GWANGALLI [Bar] open: 7pm - 6am web: Located on the ground floor, offering a great view of the beach and bridge. Friendly staff serve excellent cocktails at the vintage-looking bar. Make sure you take advantage of the outside seating in the summertime. GALMEGI BREWING CO. [Craft Brew Pub] open: Mon - Fri 6-1am, Sat 2pm-2am, Sun 2pm-12am tel: 010-4469-9658 web: HAPS_fall 2013

brewing fb: galmegi.brewing Galmegi Brewing Co. is Busan’s first craft brew pub right on Gwangan Beach. All of our beer is handcrafted here in Korea using fresh mountain stream water, German barley, American hops, and imported yeast strains from around the world. On Tap This Summer: Hefeweizen, Amber Ale, Rye Pale Ale, IPA, Porter, & Raspberry Wheat. SAIGON PHO [Vietnamese] tel: 051-755-4205 Has been serving up Phở, the Vietnamese noodle soup since 1997. One of the few non-chain Vietnamese spots in town. Look for the big yellow sign, across the street from the Starbucks. SHARKY’S [American Sports Bar] open: 6 p.m. weekdays, 2 p.m. weekends tel: 010-4038-2907 (call for reservations) web: Ranked highly on and as having the best burger in Busan by Haps, Sharky’s is a smoke-free environment where families or singles can enjoy a great drink and a fine meal. With premium-cut steaks, burgers, fresh gourmet salads and vegetarian options, Sharky’s has something for everyone. THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] open: 6pm - late web: thursday-party A summer staple on Gwangalli Beach for the past couple of summers, Thursday Party has two locations situated next to each other on the east side of the beach. Both bars are similar to the Thursday Party city-wide theme, and offer a variety of American style pub grub to tempt your palate. WA BAR [Beer Bar] Wide selection of beer laid out for your choosing.

HAEUNDAE AN GA [Korean] tel: 051-742-7852 Very popular bbq meat restaurant in Haeundae. BILLIE JEAN [Lounge/Live Music] tel: 051-742-0297 web: billiejean A Haps favorite. Great decor. BURGER AND PASTA [International] open: 11am - 2am web: Recently opened, this Western/ Korean fusion style restaurant has been packing them in since day one.

Burgers, pasta and brunch are on the menu in the stylishly decorated restaurant, where you can also imbibe yourself to a glass of wine, a cocktail or beer after your day on the beach. CHEOLMA HANWOO BULGOGI [Korean] tel: 051-709-4000 Bulgogi done at its best. CINE DE CHEF [Italian] tel: 051-745-2880 In Shinsegae, enjoy a good meal and a movie. EL OLIVE [Italian] tel: 051-752-7300 Delicious Italian, close to Costco. FUZZY NAVEL [Food/Bar] open: 11am - 6am tel: 051-746-6439 web: Great location set on two floors near the beach, other bars, and clubs. Amazing Mexican food is served from lunchtime until the early hours of the morning. Friendly staff and outside seating makes Fuzzy Navel a place to hit when the weather is good. GANGA [Indian] Expect to pay some good money, but it’s worth it. GECKOS [Pub] Beach front bar. Consistently good food. GEN SUSHI [Japanese] tel: 051-740-6630 Affordable sushi. Good stuff. HELLO THAI [Thai] tel: 051-731-5033 Good Thai food in the heart of Haeundae. MERCADO [Brazilian Steakhouse] open: 11:30 a.m. - 24:00 tel: 051-744-8807 web: An authentic southern Brazilian Churrascaria, Mercado is the perfect dining experience for family and friends. With eight choices of prime meat seasoned with Brazilian spices charcoaled and grilled to perfection, salads and Brazilian rice, this unique dining experience is like no other in the city. LOVING HUT [Vegetarian] tel: 051-747-2979 web: All organic, all good. Veggie paradise. MURPII [Nightclub] In the Novotel. Dancing, drinking, MY TABLE [Cafe] open: 11 am - 10:30 p.m. tel: 051-744-8989 web: My Table is a great little spot in Marine City that offers excellent coffee and great food to go along with it,

including several organic offerings, excellent sandwiches, great yogurts, the popular pumpkin soup or the sea mustard noodles. Make sure to check out the tiramisu made with 100% mascarpone. NAMASTE [Indian] tel: 051-746-1946 Indian fine dining. Good prices and great food. PHO KIM [Vietnamese] tel: 051-740-4868 Good food at a good price. Great soup, located in SFUNZ. SHARKY’S [American Sports Bar] open: 6 p.m. weekdays, 2 p.m. weekends tel: 010-4038-2907 (call for reservations) web: Ranked highly on and as having the best burger in Busan by Haps, Sharky’s is a smoke-free environment where families or singles can enjoy a great drink and a fine meal. With premium-cut steaks, burgers, fresh gourmet salads and vegetarian options, Sharky’s has something for everyone. Located on the second floor of Pale de Cz, next to the Paradise Hotel. SUNTORY [Japanese] Food and drink in a classy setting. Bonzai! TAO [American/Sports Bar] open: pub time 6 p.m.-12 a.m., club time 12 a.m.- 6 a.m. tel. 1544-8030 web: clubtao The newest edition to Haeundae beach, Club Tao perfectly matches style and elegance by combining a fantastic bistro menu with a nighttime club scene. Conveniently located across the street from the Pale de CZ on Haeundae Beach. TAP AND TAPAS [Spanish] open: 3pm-5am tel: 051-746-6318 web: Recently opened, Tap and Tapas serves up high quality, well-presented Spanish cuisine in a striking new setting in Haeundae. With an extensive menu of upscale cocktails and a tap room, it’s a great place to meet for an informal meeting, or out for a night on the town to impress. T.G.I. FRIDAY’S [Chain] tel: 051-740-6531 Good reliable chain in the Harbor Town building, across from the beach. THE WOLFHOUND PUB [Irish Pub] open: 6pm - 2am weekdays, 11am - 2am weekends tel: 051-746-7940 web:

Dining & Food



03 04 03


04 Save Zone Dept. Store

d 05 Roa nam u G Sea Cloud Hotel

B ae nd eu Ha


d oa hR eac



Novotel Hotel

06 Toyota Dealership


Haeundae City Hall Paradise Hotel Dept. Store dae


Ha ach


Paradise Hotel & Casino



Haeundae Beach


04 05 08 09

Pale De Cz

03 11



Boraville Apt 4

3 Dong ba

ek S tn



Daewoo Marina 3 Cha Daewoo Marina 2 Cha Busan Cinemateque



e City


Home Plus


Hyatt Hotel



MARINE CITY RESTAURANTS 02 Kraze Burger 03 Hello Sushi 04 The Pan 05 Hyatt Dining Room CAFES 01 My Table Cafe 02 Tom n Toms 03 Starbucks 04 Caffe Benne


01 Bus Depot


BMW 02 Dealership 02

Haeundae Aquarium


HAEUNDAE CLUBS 01 Murphii 02 Elune 03 Tao BARS/PUBS/LOUNGES 01 Thursday Party 02 Miami 88 03 Wolfhound 04 Rock n’ Roll 05 Fuzzy Navel 06 U2 08 Sector 510 09 Gecko’s 10 Sharky’s 11 Billie Jean 12 Tap and Tapas 12 TBR RESTAURANTS 01 TGI Friday’s 01 Mad For Garlic 01 Ganga 02 Hello Thai 03 Namaste 04 Loving Hut CAFES 01 Coffine Gurunaru 02 Angel-In-Us 03 Angel-In-Us 04 Starbucks 05 Caffe Bene


oad in R Ma



2 3 1

ae und







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ae Bea

FULLY BOOKED [Cafe/Bar] open: Tues-Thurs 7pm - 12am, Fri 7pm 1am, Sat 2pm - 2am, Sun 2pm - 12am tel. 070-8170-9628 web:




Haeundae Tourist Office

Haeundae Subway & Train Stn

4 6

Harbour Town

Haeundae Be

KYUNGSUNG ALMOST FAMOUS [Dance/Techno] Funky atmosphere, great staff. AUSSIE BURGER [International] Burgers, fries and Aussie pies. AYUTA [Indian] Friendly staff, good food. BEIJING GO-CHI [Chinese] Great skewers, great food, cheap prices. BLUE MONKEY [Dance/Hip Hop] open: 7pm to late tel. 051-611-2888 web: blue-monkey BON BON [Italian] tel: 051-621-0906 Great little spot next to Kyungsung U. BURGER AND PASTA [International] open: 11am - 11pm tel: 051-625-6651 web: burger-pasta With three locations around Busan, Burger and Pasta offer a solid menu, and reasonable prices that make them a hit with young Koreans and expats. Set in the traditional Thursday Party wooden decor, they offer pasta, burgers and a brunch with a small patio to enjoy the street catwalk on sunny days. CAFE RADIO [Cafe] Great atmosphere. Relax with a book. EVA’S TICKET [Western/Sports] Eva and the HQ fellas new super bar offer tons of things to keep you occupied.



THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] tel: 051-744-6621 open: 6pm - late web: thursday-party A staple of the Busan landscape, Thursday Party Haeundae offers a casual, yet comfortable option after a day at the beach. With a patio for outdoor sitting, this open-aired spacious pub brings the usual quality service the locals and expats have come to expect from the Thursday Party empire. U2 BAR [Lounge] Great place to chill, awesome service, a Haeundae institution. VAN GOGH TERRACE [Italian] tel: 051-741-3767 Nice view of the water while you eat.



Daewoo Marina 1 Cha Haeb yun R


Sun Plaza Zenith Towers Zenith Square

WooShin Golden Suite

03 Marina Center

Bene City


04 02 Ro ity 1rine C


02 04

2013 fall_ 47

Nightlife & Dining Directory MONK’S JAZZ CLUB [Jazz Club] Busan’s only jazz club. Tuesday nights are hot.

HQ BAR [American/Sports Bar] open: Mon-Sat 6:00-Late, Sun 4:00-9:00 tel: 010-7544-8830 web: HQ Bar is your place in KSU for drunken mistake-making. We have an ever-expanding variety of microbrew bottles and craft beers on tap; an extensive selection of late-night pub grub; rugby, football, and kung fu movies; and a music selection that, according to our customers, isn’t awful.

O’TACO [Mexican] open: 11 a.m. - 10 p.m. daily tel: 051-627-8358 web: Kyungsung’s original Mexican restaurant, O’Taco, has become a staple for those looking to get their Mexican food fix. Using only the finest and freshest ingredients, this must-try eatery has indoor and patio seating, as well as a daily lunch special and extensive menu at affordable prices. Open daily. KINO EYE [Dance Club] Dark atmosphere. Live music on occasion. 48 HAPS_fall 2013

OL’ 55 [Live Music/Event] tel: 051-627-5645 web: ol’55 Ol’55 is located in the heart of Kyungsung University and is noted for its Open Mic Wednesdays, which are known to host the best Korean and expat musicians in town. PAINTED CHAIR CAFE [Cafe/Gallery] The art, the atmosphere. Good place to chill. SHABANA [Indian] tel: 051-621-4821 Good, affordable Indian food. THE SUSHI [Japanese] tel: 051-611-4043 Affordable, quality Japanese food. THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] open: 6pm - late web: thursday-party2 With ten Thursday Party’s around the city, it has become a staple for the young, hip Korean university crowd and expats alike. Beer pong, sports on TV and the free curry popcorn or salted spaghetti sticks are always in play, as is a busy crowd almost every evening of the week. VINYL UNDERGROUND [Nightclub/Event Bar] Vinyl Underground is known as the spot for live music in the Kyungsung area.

PNU CROSSROADS [Live Music/Pub] open: 7pm-late tel: 051-515-1181 web: crossroads A small, but atmospheric watering hole in PNU, Crossroads has been a Busan institution amongst the expats for years. FARMERS BURGERS [American/Korean Fusion] People rave about it. Nominated in Best Burger. INTERPLAY [Live Music/Event] Live music, hit or miss if you catch on a good night. LOVING HUT [Vegetarian] tel: 051-518-0115 MOO MONK [Live Music] Can catch some great Korean indie bands here. PHO [Vietnamese] Nice Vietnamese food in PNU. RED BOTTLE [Korean/Expat Bar] Good spot to get a drink.

RISTORANTE [Italian] Great Italian fare at the Nongshim Hotel. SHABANA [Indian] tel: 051-517-1947 Nice Indian food for cheap. SOULTRANE [Comedy/Event/Rock] tel: 051-515-1181 web: soul-trane One of the oldest expat bars in the city, the once foreigner oriented Soultrane nonetheless draws a healthy mix of locals, expats and tourists. THE BASEMENT [Korean/Expat Bar] web: basement One of the most popular bars in the area. Always a great time, and anchors the PNU scene.

SEOMYEON BUFFALO CHICKEN [Chicken] tel: 051-805-3512 Good chicken chain with several interesting sauces. BUONA OVEN PIZZA [Italian] tel: 051-904-8239 Nice, oven-baked pizza and spaghetti. CLUB FIX [Nightclub] tel: 051-905-5777 web: New super club. International DJs and dress code required. DIVISION 9 [Lounge] Pinball, darts, basketball, drinking and good fun. DRAGON DREAM (THE CAVE BAR) [Korean] tel: 051-646-5924 Very interesting decor with a nice selection of food. FOXY DANCE [Club] Dance club, usually packed on the weekend. FUZZY NAVEL- SEOMYEON I [Food/Bar] open: 5pm - 6am tel: 051-808-1007 web: Check out the newly refurbished bar offering a variety of entertainment including, soft darts, pool, and table soccer. Awesome DJs and a wide floor make this place to be at night. Also, new to Seomyeon, the same amazing Mexican food as served at the Haeundae Fuzzy Navel is prepared in our large renovated kitchen. FUZZY NAVEL- SEOMYEON Il [Bar] open: 5pm - 6am tel: 051-817-2242 web: On the ground floor with a sliding window for when the weather is good, an excellent mix of Koreans and foreigners makes this a good place to

make new friends. A comfortable atmosphere, where you will be looked after by the friendly staff, who will even give you a fireshow if you are celebrating a special occasion. HANGOVER [Western Pub] open: 6 p.m. to 2 a.m. Tuesday - Sunday tel: 070-7789-5868 web: From the good folks that brought you the great Italian food at Vito’s, this new eatery/bar located in the prime of Seomyeon brings delicious western food and fine tasting beer with its unique refrigeration system. You can also enjoy your food or drink on their spacious indoor deck away from the hustle and bustle of the streets. LOVING HUT [Vegetarian] tel: 051-808-7718 ROCK N’ ROLL BAR [Rock] A true dive. Good atmosphere and pool and darts. T.G.I. FRIDAY’S [Chain] tel: 051-805-3164 Two locations in Seomyeon to choose from. THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] open: 6pm - late tel: 051-818-6621 web: thursday-party-1 You can expect more of the same from the Seomyeon Thursday Party, which caters to a young, eclectic mix of Koreans and expats. Nestled amongst a slew of bars and restaurants behind Judie’s Taewha, Thursday Party stands out for their unique charm, quality service and hip atmosphere amongst the Korean cool. VITO [Italian] tel: 051-806-5868 web: Fashioned in the tradition of the small Italian trattoria, Vito brings back a taste of the old country.

NAMPO ARUN THAI [Thai] open: 11a.m. - 10 p.m. tel: 051-908-9085 web: The chefs at Arun Thai bring you succulently prepared authentic Thai dishes at very reasonable rates. This delightful restaurant, nestled on the second floor some 50m in the back alleyway next to KFC, is a great meeting place, whether for a light lunch or large-scale dinner in a stylish environment with friendly service. FARMERS BURGERS [International] Enjoy a quality, fresh-made burger and fries on the roof.

Dining & Food




KUHN [Asian] Hosts a variety of Southeast Asian dishes at good prices.

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Aqua Palace Hotel vel Na zy 01 z u F to 0m 10


Homers Hotel

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Bar/Pub/Lounge 03

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Dawn Beach Hotel

05 02



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Gw ang

Park Hotel

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Sub 03 way Stn .







Bukyung University

01 Car Park

Perugio Apartments


02 2



06 03





11 07 Yongsu Road


Century 21 Building


3 4





su R

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5 6

Kyungsung University



04 03

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GWANGAN BARS/PUBS/LOUNGES 01 Paris 02 Beach Bikini 03 Thursday Party 04 Fuzzy Navel 05 Beached 06 Sharky’s 07 Galmegi Brewing RESTAURANTS 01 Burger n’ Pasta 02 Bella Citta 03 Blue Saigon CAFES 01 Tom n’ Toms 02 Twosome Place 03 Starbucks BUSINESS/OTHER 01 Kai Surf Shop 02 New Philadelphia Seaside Church KYUNGSUNG BARS/PUBS/LOUNGES 01 Almost Famous 02 Club Realize 03 HQ 04 Blue Monkey 06 Ho Bar 07 Thursday Party 08 New Foxy 09 Vinyl Underground 10 Ol’55 11 Fabric 12 Fully Booked 13 Monk RESTAURANTS 01 O’Taco 02 Burger & Pasta 03 Outback 04 Okkudak CAFES 01 Starbucks 02 Tom n’ Toms 03 Angel-In-Us 04 Angel-In-Us


AIR BUSAN tel: 051-974-8686 web: ASIANA AIRLINES - DOMESTIC tel: 051-972-4004 web: ASIANA AIRLINES - INTERNATIONAL tel: 051-971-2626 web: CEBU PACIFIC AIR tel: 051-462-0686 web: JEJU AIR tel: 070-7420-1502 web: KOREAN AIR - INTERNATIONAL tel: 051-970-3227





eon Suy

NEW LITTLE INDIA [Indian] open: 11am- 10pm tel: 051-245-4127 web: Situated on the second floor in the heart of Nampodong, New Little India specializes in the finest authentic Indian cuisine. The elegantlystyled interior and superior service complements the remarkably fresh ingredients on their vast menu. A great destination for those looking to enjoy a fine meal at affordable prices and a quiet ambiance. THE PAN [Brunch] Nestled amongst a slew of outdoor terrace restaurants. THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] open: 6pm - late web: thursday-party-1 The Thursday Party Nampo store offers a slightly varied atmosphere than the others around the city, though by no means is it less exciting. A slightly more mixed crowd of expats and young Koreans is to be expected, as well as the great service that TP has become renowned for.

GS Gas Station

2013 fall_ 49

Services Directory web: LUFTHANSA tel: 02-2019 0180 web: KLM ROYAL DUTCH AIRLINES tel: 02-3483-1133 web:

BUSINESS ORGANIZATIONS AMCHAM #4501, Trade Tower 159-1, Samsungdong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul tel: 02-564-2040 web: An independent association of American and international businesses, the role of the American Chamber of Commerce is to promote business and trade between the United States and Korea. ECCK 102-2903 WBC The Palace 1523, Haeundae-gu tel: 051-959-9695 web: The European Chamber of Commerce aims to provide an effective network of business associates together with discussion forums and seminars on how to do business in Korea, as well as an array of social networking events.

EDUCATION FOREIGN SCHOOLS BUSAN FOREIGN SCHOOL 1366-3 Jwa-dong, Haeundae-gu tel: 051-747-7199 web: BUSAN JAPANESE SCHOOL 173-8 Millak-dong, Suyoung-gu tel: 051-753-4166 web: BUSAN OVERSEAS CHINESE KINDERGARTEN 548-1 Choryang-dong, Dong-gu tel: 051-468-2845 web: BUSAN INTERNATIONAL FOREIGN SCHOOL

798 Nae-ri, Gijang-eup, Gijang-gun tel: 051-742-3332 web:

TESOL TRAINING KOTESOL Email: Facebook: Busan-Gyeongnam KOTESOL Chapter TESOL ALLIANCE tel: 051-818-0502 web:


BUSAN FOUNDATION FOR INTERNATIONAL ACTIVITIES tel: 051-668-7900 web: email: KLIFF tel: 051-513-0131 web: email: PNU LANGUAGE EDUCATION CENTER tel: 051-510-1983 web: email:




HEALTH CENTERS DONGNAE HEALTH CENTER 702-54, Myeongryun-2 dong, Dongnae-gu tel: 051-555-4000 HAEUNDAE HEALTH CENTER 1339, Jwa-2 dong, Haeundae-gu tel: 051-746-4000 JUNG-GU HEALTH CENTER 1 Ga 1, Daecheong-dong, Jung-gu tel: 051-600-4741


DONGEUI UNIVERSITY HOSPITAL 397-3, Bujeon-1 dong, Busanjin-gu tel: 051-803-5430 GOOD SAMSUN HANBANG 1162-2, Jurye-dong, Sasang-gu tel: 051-325-0300

RADIOLOGY CLINICS THE ONE MRI CLINIC open: Mon - Fri 11 a.m. - 7 p.m., Saturday 11 a.m. - 2 p.m. tel: 051-937-0303 web: With over 12 years medical experience in the United States, Dr. Suh Jong-dae is an MRI, PET/CT and ultrasound specialist licensed with both the American and Korean Board of Radiology. The most trusted name in Korean Medical Imaging, you can enjoy quick, reliable and trustworthy English service for all your medical needs.

HOSPITALS BUK-GU/DONGNAE BUMIN HOSPITAL 380-4, Deokcheon 1-dong tel: 051-330-3000 web: DONG EUI MEDICAL CENTER San 45-1, Yangjeong 2-dong tel: 051-867-5101 web: DONGNAE BONG SENG HOSPITAL 766, Anlak 1-dong tel: 051-531-6000 web: DONGRAE WOORIDUL HOSPITAL 205-10, Nakmin-dong tel: 051-559-5000 web: INJE UNIVERSITY BUSAN PAIK HOSPITAL 1435, Jwa-dong tel: 051-890-6114

HAEUNDAE HYOSUNG CITY HOSPITAL 1094-2, Jaesong 1-dong tel: 051-709-3000 web: INJE UNIV. HAEUNDAE PAIK HOSPITAL 1435, Jwa-dong tel: 051-797-0100 web:

JUNG-GU HAEYANG HOSPITAL 80-8 Jungang-dong 4-ga tel: 051-469-4456 web: MARYKNOLL MEDICAL CENTER 12, Daecheong-dong 4-ga tel: 051-465-8801 web:

NAM-GU BUSAN ST. MARY'S MEDICAL CENTER 538-41, Yongho 4-dong tel: 051-933-7114 web:

SEO-GU DONG-A UNIVERSITY MEDICAL CENTER 3-ga, #1 Dongdaeshin-dong tel: 051-240-2400 web: PUSAN NATIONAL UNIVERSITY HOSPITAL 10, Ami-dong 1-ga tel: 051-254-0171 web:

SUYEONG BUSAN CENTUM HOSPITAL 1077-1, Gwangan 3-dong tel: 051-760-5000 web: BUSAN HANNAH WOMAN'S HOSPITAL 304, Namcheon-dong tel: 051-625-2300 web: GOOD GANGAN HOSPITAL 40-1, 41-9, Namcheon-dong tel: 051-625-0900 web:

RELIGIOUS SERVICES AL-FATIH MASJID MOSQUE Namsan-dong, #30-1 Guemjeong-gu tel: 051-518-9991 web: Services: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily

DONGNAE 502-3, Oncheonjeong, Dongnae-gu, Busan tel: 051-605-2500 GWANGBOK 20-1, 7 ga, Jung-ang Dong, Jung-gu, Busan

Sojeon Road

Club 12


Taewha 03 Judie’s Dept. Store 01


4 2 13

Jungkangdae Road

Seomyeon Subway Stn.








01 02

Seomyeon Road


Lotte Hotel & Seven Luck Casino


Jungang-dong Sub. 6


Lotte Dept. Store

Lotte Dept. Store








3 1


Yongdusan Park


03 01

Daegaksa Temple


05 03 04 Information 02

Jalgalchi Fish Market


Busan Modern History Museum

d Shoppin g Mall

Busan Tower


o Unde

NAMPO-DONG RESTAURANTS 01 Arun Thai 02 KFC 03 The Pan 04 The Pho 05 New Little India 06 Farmers Burgers 07 McDonalds CAFES 01 Caffe Bene 02 Starbucks 03 Angel-In-Us 04 Holly’s 05 The Cafe 06 Caffe Bene





02 04

8 10






FOUR LOCATIONS CENTUM CITY 1496, U Dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan tel: 051-730-2500


. g Sub

DEPT. STORES LOTTE DEPT. STORE Open: 10:30 ~ 20:00






SEOMYEON CLUBS 01 Fix 02 Foxy BARS/PUBS/LOUNGES 01 Rock n’ Roll 02 Spot 03 Thursday Party 04 Fuzzy Navel 05 Fuzzy Navel II 06 Hangover RESTAURANTS 01 Vito 02 TGI Friday’s CAFES 01 Angel-In-Us 02 Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 03 Twosome Place 04 Tom n’ Toms BUSINESS 01 Kangs Dental 02 Apple Store 03 St. Louis Dental

Dongcheon Road


BUSAN MUSEUM OF ART 40, Apec-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan tel: 051-740-2602 web: Opening Hours - 09:00 ~ 20:00 Closed - Jan. 1, Every First Monday Admission Fee - Free BUSAN MODERN HISTORY MUSEUM 104, Daechung-ro, Jung-gu, Busan tel: 051-253-3845 web: Opening Hours - 09:00 ~ 18:00 Closed - Jan.1, Every First Monday Admission Fee - Free BUSAN MUSEUM 63, UN Peace-ro, Nam-gu, Busan tel: 051-610-7111 web: Hours of operation - 09:00 ~ 20:00 Closed - Jan. 1, Every First Monday Admission fee - Free BUSAN UN MEMORIAL CEMETERY AND PARK 779, Daeyon 4 dong, Nam-gu, Busan tel: 051-625-0625 web: Hours of operation - 09:00 ~ 17:00 Open Year Round Admission fee - Free



Dongcheon Road

Cosmetic Surgery Street



Jungang Middle School

D City Dept Store

Sojeon Road

NEW PHILADELPHIA CHURCH Suyeong-gu Gwangan 2-dong 199-6 (8th floor) tel: 051-932-6832 web: Services: Sundays, 2:30 pm


Kayodae Road

GIFT MINISTRY Myung-nyun-dong, Dongnae-gu tel: 010-7999-8644 web: Services: Saturdays,10:30 a.m. HOSANNA CHURCH Myeongji-dong, #3245-5 Gangseo-gu, tel: 051-209-0191 web: Services: Sundays, 12:30 p.m.


PIFF Squaure

Gukje Market

Restaurant Cafe



2013 fall_ 51

Services Directory tel: 051-678-2500 SEOMYEON Bujeondong, Busan-jingu, Busan tel: 051-810-2500 HYUNDAI DEPT. STORE 62-5, Beomil-dong, Dong-gu, Busan tel: 051-667-2233 Open: 10:30 ~ 20:00 SHINSEGAE DEPT. STORE (CENTUM CITY) 1495 Wu-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan tel: 1588-1234 web: Open: 10:30 ~ 20:00

CLOTHING/SPORTS KAI SURF SHOP 183-11 Gwangan-dong, Suyeong-gu tel: 051-753-2746

OTHER SERVICES ISCENT tel: 051-504-7735 web: e-mail : iScent provides perfect fragrance rendering via a non-invasive, elective consumer accepted delivery method. With fragrance being an important factor in distinguishing your brand

from the competition, iScent is the smartest way to gain a marketing advantage. Call today to join one of Korea’s leading choices to make your business create a customer experience around your brand, your products, and even your people.

SOCIAL/NON-PROFIT ORGANIZATIONS BUSAN BANDITS RUGBY Facebook Group: Busan Bandits BUSAN BOOK SWAP Facebook Group: Busan Book Swap BUSAN BOWLING LEAGUE Contact: David Alderman tel: 010.7919.1223 Facebook Group: Busan Bowling League BUSAN FOUNDATION FOR INTERNATIONAL ACTIVITIES tel: 051-668-7900 web: BUSAN FRIENDSHIP GROUP ULTIMATE FRISBEE LEAGUE Email: BTC FOOTBALL FB Group: Busan Transportation Corporation Supporters Fanpage

EPIK TEACHERS IN BUSAN Facebook Group: Busan EPIK EXPAT SAILING CLUB Contact: Mark Chi email: web: LAOCHRA BUSAN GAELIC ATHLETIC ASSOCIATION CLUB Contact: Peter Bonner email: Facebook Group: Laochra Busan Members



HIGH STREET MARKET open: 24/7 online, Seoul in-store 10am to 10pm daily. tel: 02-2201-0652 web: email: High Street Market has all your favorite foods from home ready for delivery to your workplace or doorstep for just W3,000! Hard-to-find western foods, sliced-to-order deli meats, imported premium cuts of meat, gourmet cheeses, variety of spices, homemade vegan & gluten free foods and more. INDIAN SHOP web: NICE MARKET web:

FAST FOOD MCDONALDS tel: 1600-5252 web: LOTTERIA tel: 1600-9999 web: BURGER KING No delivery web:

Humetro Call Center Lost & Found Center

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Seomyeon Stn.


A MONTH FOR MEN’S HEALTH During the month of November you might get the feeling that the 80s are back. Actually, what you are witnessing is men putting their money where the hair above their mouth is. For the better part of the last two decades, on Halloween Day or ‘Shadow’een’, clean-shaven men around the world have taken a 30-day vow to not allow a razor to touch their upper lip. During the month of “Movember”, men grow their moustaches to their most luscious and glorious potential in order to show support for men’s health issues. Keep your eyes peeled for local businesses doing charity drives, give what you can, and grow what you should.







Bar/Pub/Lounge Restaurant

04 d Geumje


PNU Main Gate


Busan Bank Pusan National Uni. Road

02 04 03 02







PNU Subway Stn

Another year of ghouls and ghosts hits Busan at the end of October, with many of the local expat bars hosting frightful events around the city. The Kyungsung University area has become the destination of choice for many of the party revelers, with bars hosting costume contests, live music and drink specials with plenty of prizes to be won.







Good Plus

Geumjeong Ro


PNU BARS/PUBS/LOUNGES 01 Thirsty Moose 02 Wa Bar 03 Basement 04 Crossroads 04 Soultrane 05 Red Bottle 06 Interplay 07 Moo Monk 08 Bling RESTAURANTS 01 Won Chon 02 The Box 03 Tajmahal CAFES 01 Angel-In-Us 02 Charlie Brown 03 Twosome Place 04 Starbucks 05 Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf


ong Roa



Bar/Pub/Lounge Restaurant Cafe

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The Last Word

Tharp On:

Haters By Chris

Tharp Illustration By Michael Roy

When perusing the average Internet comments section one thing is glaringly clear: love is overrated and hate is where it’s at. For all its promise, the web is largely fertilizer for the balls tree in anonymous hater land. Every once in awhile, usually in the boozy confines of one of Busan’s drinking establishments, I am approached by a wideeyed fellow expat who just so happens to have literary ambitions of his own. “How did you go about getting your book published?” he’ll ask. “Can you give me any advice?” I’ll eye him like a trainer considering taking on a young boxing prospect, shake my head, suck through my teeth and then tell him to buy me a beer. Once that mug of Cass arrives, I’ll take a few skunky swigs and proceed to dispense my own brand of pointers, which invariably include starting a blog, pimping yourself on social media, and submitting articles to publications and websites in an effort to build up what is referred to these days an author’s platform. “But, MOST importantly,” I’ll say, staring into the pits of his eyes, “Develop a thick skin. There are a lot of haters out there.”

than on the Internet, where actual people—most often hiding behind the Kevlar armor of anonymity—unleash torrents of vitriol towards total strangers in nasty and bizarre attempts to make themselves feel superior. And no one feels the sting of this venom more than writers, who are the ones providing the content, the ones splaying themselves open for all to praise or mock accordingly. I’ve been actively writing and blogging online for over nine years now and have attracted my fair share of trolls and detractors. This shouldn’t surprise anyone—least of all me—since I have been known to throw up rants and screeds that have acted as Jackson Pollock paintings of offensiveness. I’ve stepped on toes and sometimes those toes have kicked back. But it is so easy to snipe now, isn’t it? In the past, haters actually had to work on their craft: If you loathed a writer, *********** you’d have to track him down at a cocktail party and call him a We are living in the midst of the Information Age, though we “dithering, pretentious boob” to his face; if you read something may need to rebrand it “The Trolling Teens.” Technology—for you despised, you actually had to sit down and write, or worse, all its transformative wonder—has a pernicious side. There is a type out a letter on real paper, stuff it into an envelope, look up convincing case to be made that all of this fantastic gadgetry the address of the publication, buy and lick a stamp, and then and virtual space has just made us meaner. Nowhere is this truer physically mail it off. You were lucky if you got a response, and


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Advertorial even then it would take at least a month. Now you just type “u r a fat pathetic wannabe hack and I hope u die in midair helicopter collision” into virtual box, click SEND, and voila! Instant hate! Internet haters come in many different stripes, though here in Korea, we can boil it down to five main types. 1. The Arbiter of Literature This guy is usually some kind of frustrated writer who lashes out in a sad attempt to repair his own shortcomings. He has been 8,000 words into a coming-of-life expat novel for the past decade now, and is just awaiting that burst of inspiration that will allow him to finish the thing and deliver it to a fawning publisher. 2. The Bitter Lifer The Bitter Lifer has been here longer than you. He’s done everything you are doing now. He’s gone everywhere you want to go. Nothing you can write will impress his worn-out, jaundiced eye, and nothing, I repeat, nothing stokes his ire more than your photoblog from this year’s Mudfest. 3. The Tear Downer This guy does nothing and hates everything. He hates your blog, he hates your stupid haircut, he hates your friend’s band, and he wouldn’t ride your ugly girlfriend “into battle.” He nearly always hails from the sunny, optimistic environs of the British Isles. 4. The Baiter The Baiter exists just to get a rise out of you. He will say or do anything to get under your skin. He’s a relentless, ankle-biting attack Chihuahua. He just wants to see you lose it, and if you deal with him, you will. 5. The Netizen The Netizen is a very Asian kind of hater, and usually shows up in swarming, livid mobs. The Netizen is militant in his loathing for you. He wants to pour acid on your molecules and erase your family tree. A year or so back, I posted a slightly tongue-andcheek piece criticizing K-pop, and the Netizens showed up in droves, screaming for my head. One guy went so far as to say: “YOU KNOW YOU SHOULDN’T EVEN BE IN SOUTH KOREA IF YOU WERE STANDING RIGHT IN FRONT OF ME I WOULD SLIT YOUR THROAT AND FORCE YOU TO LISTEN TO K-POP TO YOUR VERY LAST BREATH” Now that, ladies and gentlemen, is some real hate. This Netizen loathed me so much that he didn’t even need to use any punctuation. *********** Back in the bar, I’ll tell the wet-behind the ear advice seeker that “It’s a tough biz. You can’t let the haters drag you down. Just keep writing and stay above the fray.” I’ll drain the last of my beer and continue: “By the way, did you read my book?” “Uh… yeah,” he’ll say, shifting his feet and looking to the door. “That why I wanted to ask you how you got it published. It kind of sucked.” My heart will drop into my stomach, tears will sting my eyes, and for the next three days, I’ll think of nothing else, while I search the net for something of his to hate even more. 2013 fall_ 55

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Haps Magazine Issue 27  

The magazine for what's happening in Busan.

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