Burgers, BBQ and Butchery, a Food & Drink focus edition on tastes in the neighborhood. Sponsored by Saturday, June 17, 2017 • Page 1B
Karbach Brewing Co. adds new summer beers, menu items, executive chef By Christina Martinez
Over on Karbach Street, the Houston brewery has more brewing than just beer. The Karbach Brewing team has added an Oak Forest resident to the team as executive chef, given permanent residency to bacon and cheese on their classic burger, and have taken a few awards home on standby beers. With the recent closing of Foreign Correspondents - a regional Thai restaurant in the Heights – left Oak Forest resident and chef P.J. Stoops looking for his next move. Joining just over a month with the brewery, Karbach Brewing said they were excited to bring on Stoops as executive chef, further improving their brand. “It was an opportunity to grab somebody, who we really admire his style of cooking, and the quality of the final product that he brings to the table,” brand manager David Graham said. “He’s an awesome guy, super nice guy. We’re not looking to radically change what we’re doing here
Contributed photo The Karbach Brewing Classic Burger, now always served with bacon and cheese, unless requested otherwise.
at the [restaurant], but always, and keep, getting better. We had that desire with our beers, we always want to get better, and want to keep that same kind of thinking behind our food, too.” Before stopping at Foreign
Correspondents and Karbach Brewing, Stoops could be found spreading his knowledge as a fishmonger for many years. Before that, he worked in Thailand for a little over three years; France for a couple of years; Austin restau-
rants for several years. Stoops said that’s going back twenty years. From all of his stints, Stoops said there are three things he can confidently claim to say he knows – Thai food, French food and Fish. All things he
plans to infuse into the Karbach menu, all “to an eye of simplicity.” For what’s been the best start to the job, Stoops, a novice beer drinker, credits trying just about everything that’s on tap at the brewery and expanding his knowledge on the brew process, and how to pair these different flavors with what’s he’s curated in the kitchen. As for his favorite beer, Stoops was a bit shy with his response. “I almost hate to say it, but I’m a sucker for anything that’s lemon flavored and soda-y, but I love The Raddler. I’ve never been a big heavy beer drinker, and it’s refreshing. So I admit it.” The Meats The circle of life is something that can be seen over at Karbach Brewing, Graham said. Listed on the menu is Wagyu beef from R-C Ranch in Angleton, just 38 miles south of Houston. The Karbach spent grain, the leftover grain from the brew process, is what the R-C Ranch wagyu cattle feed on, and that beef eventually comes back to the
brewery for menu features like the classic burger and the steak. The spent grain can also be found on the dessert menu and even within the pizza dough for their pizza pies. Karbach’s classic burger has a new addition that’s given bacon and cheese a permanent residency. The burger will relatively remain the same, but the only change will be their mindset – all classic burgers will come with bacon and cheese, unless requested otherwise. For the cooking of the burger, nothing over a medium level is suggested so the juice can retain in the burger. When it comes to picking a beer to pair with this classic, Graham has a few suggestions. “The beer pairing for this burger depends on the person,” Graham said. “I think with the strong flavors of the beef, cheese and the bacon, the best pairing is our Hopadillo IPA. But there’s two theo-
The Garage Grill launches on Ella Boulevard By Christina Martinez
The Leader’s Readers’ Choice Awards closed voting polls, tallied up the votes, and are announcing all of the winners June 24. Since we’re talking burgers, we’ll let the beans spill and announce that MytiBurger took home the gold for Best Burger. Taking home gold isn’t the only news for the Oak Forest burger joint. Owner and operator Shawn Salyers has expanded his burger brand in opening a sister concept called The Garage Grill, located in the Mr. Gleem Carwash at 3103 Ella Blvd. Salyers said he saw opportunity with the counter opening at the car wash and he had to jump on it. “I heard there was an opening at the car wash and I’ve always wanted to run the counter,” Salyers said. “I thought it was a good opportunity. When I heard about it, I immediately came to the owners about doing it. The goal is to provide good, quality food at a good price, and to try out new menu items that I couldn’t do at MytiBurger to try here.”
Photo by Christina Martinez The Ugly Duck BBQ Sandwich, topped with pickles and pickled jalepenos, onions and served on a bun with a side of chips.
When it comes to new menu items to try out at The Garage Grill, Salyers immediately mentioned the 1/3 gourmet angus burger – noting that the MytiBurger brand has been around for decades and tinkering with the brand is something he doesn’t have plans for. The chicken sandwich, a different cut of fries, a turkey club, and overall higher quality items are the focus for the Garage Grill and Salyers.
A unique Wednesday offering is the Scrub and Grub special: buy The Gleem 3 car wash, grab a free burger from The Garage Grill. Salyers said customers can show their receipt and receive a free burger up to two days after their car wash purchase. The menu offers cold sandwiches, like a classic turkey club, BLT, a grilled chicken wrap and more. From the grill side, find a 1/3 classic burger,
chicken sandwich, grilled cheese or grilled cheese with bacon, fajita tacos and more. Pair any order with fresh fries or chips, and a Mexican coke, Topo Chico or water or soda for your beverage. A popular menu feature with customers is putting local barbecue front and center, with the Ugly Duck BBQ Sandwich. The barbecue sandwich features brisket from Oak Forest’s Ugly Duck BBQ, a catering concept, topped with onions, pickles and pickled jalepenos, served on a bun with a side of chips. Grab the whole thing for ten dollars. For both The Garage Grill and Mytiburger, Salyers has launched the Waitr app., which is an application that you can download to your phone to have food from both locations, and many other restaurant and eateries around town, delivered to your door. “I encourage customers to use the new app., but also come by and see the new concept,” Salyers said. “There is plenty of parking along the side of the car wash. Stay and eat, or call ahead to take it for a quick car wash and lunch.”
Rainbow Lodge: 40 Years of fine food and friends By Kim Hogstrom For The Leader
The month of July 2017, will note a benchmark for the Rainbow Lodge. The restaurant, located in a 113-year-old log cabin on Ella Boulevard at East TC Jester, is celebrating its 40th Anniversary. The birthday is a measure made all the more extraordinary by industry statistics. According to Forbes magazine, 60 percent of American restaurants shutter by their third year in
business. Then again, there is nothing ordinary about the Rainbow Lodge. Its interiors offer unique views that whisk patrons away from the stress of the city. White Oak Bayou drifts slowly past the large windows. Beautiful trees and gardens help foster peace in the most restless of souls, while local wildlife entertains as each goes about the business of living. The reasons for the lodge’s longevity are not limited to
the ambiance. Specializing in seafood, locally sourced produce, and regional wild game, the food offers the same quality, freshness and attention to detail one would expect in a four-star restaurant, at a better value. During a recent lunch, we enjoyed a salad of whipped mozzarella mixed with heirloom tomatoes, vinaigrette, and melon cubes infused with honey harvested from beehives on the property. If heaven has a flavor, this would be it.
Our salad was followed by a battered, fried quail thigh nesting in flavorful white cheddar grits, and finished with a bourbon-bacon cream gravy. There are no words sufficient to describe this - just try it. Businesses that survive in the American entrepreneurial landscape require talent and vision behind them. Rainbow
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Page 2B • Saturday, June 17, 2017
Art Valet: Art ideas and activities for Father’s Day What are you going to do with Dad this weekend? There are some events just for him you know, you don’t have to just stand in long lines at restaurants. Not that there’s anything wrong with that. The Museum of Fine Arts has several exhibits geared to the Father’s with more art culture leanings. Pipilotti Rist: Pixel Forest and Worry Will Vanish are two grand-scale, immersive exhibitions. Welcome to the future of art, this is open daily. These light-based and video-based installations, under the direction of the artist, transform the vast, central gallery of Cullinan Hall into a cosmic journey through time and space. Pixel Forest consists of thousands of hanging LED lights, each controlled by a video signal so that the “forest” is constantly changing. The artist describes Pixel Forest as “a digital image that has exploded in space.” My other MFA choice would be the film, David Lynch – The Art Life, from 5 – 6:30 p.m. Sunday, June 18. This looks like a fascinating autobiographical film about Lynch’s early life through today. Tickets and more at mfah. org. Hardy & Nance Street Studios host #NoHate Art Show from 5 – 9 p.m. Saturday, June 17.
Mitch Cohen Art Columnist
Elena Sandovici’s submission is titled “Don’t Blame the Goddess,” acrylic and collage on canvas ‘24 x ‘36. The show feature’s two women wearing abayas and hijabs in front of a seemingly random field words that are from the 14th Amendment, the Equal Rights Amendment and Beyoncé lyrics. Other elements hidden among the words continue the story. The Hardy & Nance Studios is located at 902 Hardy St, Houston, Texas 77020. The event coincides with the artist open studios. Here are few more events equally great for Dad shopping or entertaining this Saturday and Sunday. East End Street Market presents Beach Party on the E., Saturday noon - 10 p.m. on the esplanade at 2800 Navigation. Art, vendors, live music food and drink and best Hawaiian shirt contest! Asher Gallery Sip & Shop with Terry Fromm, hosted by Houston Center for Contemporary Craft, Saturday 3 - 5 p.m. Fromm is a Heights
resident and will be on-hand to discuss the techniques she uses to create metal vessels and her signature ribbon jewelry series. Over 100 national artists work on display for sale. Visit 4848 Main St, Houston,
Texas 77002. Flea by Night at Discovery Green, 6 - 10 p.m. at 1500 McKinney St, Houston, Texas 77010. There is plenty of recycled and repurposed art, kitsch, vintage, collectable and
DaD Deserves to Dine.
Contributed photo Rainbow Lodge owner and Oak Forest resident Donnette Hansen fly fishing.
out my friends, Chef Mark Schmidt and General Manager Tim Neely. Tim and I have been together for 29 years, and we are a compliment to one another. I am passionate, and he is calm and unflappable. I am fortunate to be surrounded
Definitely Dad-worthy, close to the boardwalk and lots of great shopping. Visit thegypsyrosemarket.com Cohen is an artist and founder of First Saturday Arts Market and the new Market at Sawyer Yards, find him at ArtValet.com
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Rainbow from P. 1B Lodge has these, starting with owner and Oak Forest resident, Donnette Hansen. Hansen’s industry DNA appears in every choice. Most restaurants are rife with debilitating turnover, but not the Rainbow Lodge. Even with its standards of quality and service, most of the employees have been with Hansen for years, if not decades. This speaks volumes about her management style and ability to instill pride in her team. “I am so blessed to have them all,” Hansen says of her crew. “It’s absolutely a team effort, and each brings something to the table. I simply couldn’t do any of this with-
furniture. This is one of my all-time favorite night markets, worth spending the entire evening here. Find more at discoverygreen.com/flea Kemah Father’s Day Market: The Gypsy Rose Market. Sunday, 1 - 6 p.m. At Kemah Community Center - 800 Harris Ave, Kemah, Texas 77565.
by such talented people.” “Donnette is amazing,” states Heights resident and longtime customer, Terry Pierce. “Most people don’t know that she is also an outstanding chef with a professional culinary degree as well as being a great business woman. It’s rare to find creativity in such a keen business mind, but Donnette has it. And all this has resulted in a deep bench of loyal customers who have become friends, and a team that delivers impeccable food and service.” It’s Hansen’s love of fly fishing that inspired one of the lodge’s most notable features. In 1993, she commissioned
an artist to carve a 20-foot sculpture called the “Tied Fly Bar.” The horizontal, glass-encased sculpture depicts life in a trout stream including fish, logs, even a bottle cap, and all carved from a single tree. The bar has become the stuff of legend in Houston. Still, Hansen admits that 40 years in the restaurant business requires more than good food, good service and a pleasant ambiance. “I think, there’s an intangible element in the recipe, too. There has to be a little magic in it all,” she said. Whatever that magic may be, 40 years proves the Rainbow Lodge has more than a dollop of it.
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Saturday, June 17, 2017 • Page 3B
Pecan Street Brewing and Johnson City offer weekend getaway, hill country brews It’s June, and since everyone seems to be on vacation, we decided to do a little traveling, too, for this edition of Craft Chronicles. Heading out west of Austin, we stayed in Johnson City and made sure to spend some time in the historic town square where Pecan Street Brewing just so happened to be. Their venue was a perfect setting with an outdoor bier garden, space for live music, a dancehall up-
stairs and of course the brewery. We sat down in the cozy restaurant with some locals and immediately ordered an appetizer and a flight of Pecan Street’s full selection. While our children were serenading the other guests in the restaurant, I got to business. It was slightly warm and a little rainy outdoors, so the All Hat No Cattle, a California Common style brew, hit the right notes for me. The Califor-
nia Common is what they call a hybrid style somewhere between a lager and an ale. The yeast is what differentiates this style from others as it is a lager yeast, but fermented a touch warmer than a lager should
be. The result is a beautiful marriage of a dry toasty, yet moderate bodied beer that is crisp in the finish. The All Hat No Cattle was a great example of the style. Its amber hues and toasty nose lead you in one direction, while the crisp finish leaves you wanting another sip. At 5.5% ABV it had enough body to keep it from feeling too light, but not too much that filled you up. That definitely helped because the
wife and I had 7 other brews in our flight to finish up. So if you find yourself heading out West, make sure to check out this and the other local breweries you pass by; you never know what kind of treasure you might discover.
wheat beer,” Graham said. “What makes a Gose interesting, if you’ve never tried one, it has a tartness to it and a saltiness – there’s actually some sea salt that actually goes into the brewing of that beer. Makes it a really nice summer refresher.” Something that has already rolled out is The Raddler, a golden ale blended with a lemon-ginger soda that Karbach is
making in-house. A beer Graham said is great for the beer garden when it is sweltering hot. Additionally, you can find the Big and Bright IPA around town, which Karbach is tag lining as “an IPA brewed with grapefruit” - noting the grapefruit as a subtle addition and not an explanation point. Along with summer additions, the brewery just recently took home some hard-
ware in the North American Beer Awards: Gold for Love Street; Silver for Rodeo Clown; Bronze for Weisse Versa and the KR&D English Barleywine. The Houston brewery has a few new additions just in time for Father’s Day, rolling out a special pre-fixed menu for Dad, or even those just looking to drink a Karbach brew and try Stoop’s flavoring on the Karbach menu.
Landon Weiershausen Columnist
The All Hat No Cattle from Pecan Street Brewing.
Make sure to join us in our craft adventures each month. Landon is the owner of Farmboy Brew Shop. Email landon@ farmboybrewshop.com. Cheers!
Karbach from P. 1B ries to a pairing: you can balance intensity or contrast and go lighter, maybe with a Love Street, or a Staycation for a happy medium.” On any given Wednesday, you can pop over to the brewery to find something on the grill, and blues acts playing live as a part of Karbach’s Love Street Blues series. “The Love Street Blues series is 6 – 9 p.m. every Wednesday,” Graham said. “It is absolutely free to attend, no cover, and we work in partnership with the Houston Blues Society. They bring us the acts, and it’s a different musician every week. We have Annika Chambers coming up later this month, she’s awesome if you’ve never seen her live.” As to what’s on the grill Wednesday nights, the menu rotates every week and what Stoops has on hand. Regardless, Stoops said it is a wonderful thing for people to be outside listening to great music, drinking great beer and he’s guaranteeing a sweet smell of
Photo by Christina Martinez Oak Forest resident and Executive Chef of Karbach Brewing, P.J. Stoops.
savory barbecue or something tastey on the grill. And while the brewery already purchases gulf fish, the brewery said they are excited to bring in someone that is well seasoned in that department.
The Beer As for what’s new with Karbach brews, summer refreshers are what’s at the forefront. “In the tanks right now is our KR&D series - it’s a rotating draft-only series right now - for the middle of summer we have a Gose – a nice light,
Local bbq restaurants receive national praise By Christina Martinez email@example.com
Every year, the Texas Monthly staff puts on their stretchy blue jeans and boots, and visits barbecue joints all across Texas to find the best of the best barbecue - or at least The Top 50 Barbecue Joints in Texas. The list features cities across the state, listing nominations in alphabetical order, and some cities having mutiple nominations. Houston brought in four nominations, with a local Leader favorite making the list: Gatlin’s BBQ, located at 3510 Ella Blvd. “Pitmaster Greg Gatlin used to be a defensive back at Rice, which was no doubt good mental training for running a barbecue business,”
Texas Monthly said. “He upgraded his highly successful operation a couple of years ago from a small house to new digs with more than four thousand square feet of space. (One thing that has stayed the same, though, is the presence of Greg’s mom, Mary, greeting everybody at the door on weekends.) The menu too has grown with time. While the brisket is satisfying and smoky, it’s the pork ribs (both baby backs and St. Louis–cut) that are the winners: tender, juicy, and with an excellent rub. As for the fine sausages, it’s hard to choose, but you might try the venison just for the novelty. And do not skip the showstopping dirty rice—Cajun comfort food at its best. Gatlin’s BBQ got a 4/5 rating from the Texas magazine. Also featured as an hon-
orable mention: Southern Goods, located in the Heights at 632 W. 19th St.
RudyaRd’s BeeR TasTing dinneR chEF
Chef Joe Apa Photo by Christina Martinez Greg Gatlin, of Gatlin’s BBQ, and his staff made Texas Monthly’s Top 50 Barbecue Joints in Texas list.
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