COLD COMFORTS

WHILE AWAY A WINTER WEEKEND WITH A DIY PROJECT DESIGNED TO DELIVER COSINESS AND CALM 

Reading Nook

Tools & materials

n Safety equipment (mask, gloves, ear and eye protection) n Tape measure and pencil n Mitre saw n Drill with 3mm bit n 10mm countersinking bit n Nail gun with 35mm and 50mm brad nails n Cloth n Sawhorses n Drop sheet n Paint sprayer n Timber cot n Five 1200mm lengths 90mm x 18mm untreated pine• n 180-grit abrasive paper with sanding block n Timber adhesive n 6G x 40mm timber screws n 6G x 30mm timber screws n Timber filler n Primer n Interior acrylic paint (we used Dulux Bland Bay)

Take one outgrown cot, reinforce the frame, add shelving and a new mattress cover to upgrade it to a snug retreat 1 3

1 Remove the front gate of the cot with attached brackets. Adjust the slatted base to the highest position in the frame, then measure between the uprights to find the length of the front rail and shelf slats, and from the ground up to the base for the back supports. Tip: The front rail and slats for this cot are 1197mm, back supports 389mm.

Diy Toolkit

3 On the outside of the mark 20mm and up from the slatted base, then predrill through the centre with a 3mm bit and countersink with a 10mm bit. Apply adhesive to the front rail edges, position and secure with 40mm screws. Secure through the rail into the base using a nail gun with 35mm brad nails.

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4 Position the back supports under the slatted base, equal distance from the ends. Predrill and countersink through the back of the frame, apply adhesive to the supports and secure with 30mm screws. At the top, secure through the base into the supports with 50mm brad nails.

5 Position a slat at the back, flush with the bottom of the frame and against the back supports. From the outside, on both sides, mark 20mm and 70mm from the back uprights, 10mm up. Predrill and countersink, apply adhesive, then position and secure with 40mm screws.

6 To install the front slat, on both sides of the frame mark 20mm and 70mm from the front upright, 10mm up. Predrill and countersink, apply adhesive, then position and secure with 40mm screws. Centre the middle slat and repeat to predrill and secure.

7 Fill all screw holes with timber filler, leave to dry and sand flush. Wipe all over with a damp cloth to remove dust. Mask over any parts of the cot that aren’t timber, position it on sawhorses and prepare the area with a drop sheet.

8 Pour primer into a paint sprayer and lightly coat all over, flipping the cot upside down to coat the underside, leave to dry. Clean the spray gun and fill with paint. Beginning with the cot upside down, lightly apply two coats all over, leaving to dry after each coat.

9 Cover the mattress in a fitted cot sheet and stitch ties to matching pillow covers to attach to the frame. Tip: If you have a sewing machine, make a new mattress cover and cushions from a curtain, as we did here.

Keep in mind…

n You may require an Allen key or hex head bit to remove the front gate of the cot.

n Although this cot frame has been reinforced, it’s not suitable for adults or children weighing more than 30kg.

n When using a nail gun, wear eye protection and ensure the nose is flat against the piece before pulling the trigger.

1 On 20mm moulding, use a 2mm bit to drill a hole centred 20mm from the end. From here, mark 195mm for the inside circle, 225mm for the top circle, 420mm for the fabric and drill holes with an 8mm bit. Tap a nail through the small hole into MDF panel to mark out the circles with a pencil.

2 Position the MDF over the workbench edge, moving it around to cut the circles with a jigsaw, checking the blade is unimpeded underneath. Smooth around the edges with 120-grit abrasive paper. Tip: Turn off the jigsaw and wait for the blade to stop before moving the MDF to continue cutting.

Storage Ottoman

Tools & materials

n Safety equipment (mask, gloves, ear and eye protection) n Tape measure and pencil n Drill with 2mm and 8mm bits n Hammer and 40 x 2mm nail n Jigsaw n Utility knife n Cloth n Mini roller with tray n Scissors n Heavy-duty staple gun with 12mm staples n 6mm countersinking bit n 20mm x 450mm moulding• n 1800mm x 300mm x 18mm

MDF panel• n 120-grit abrasive paper n 560mm x 402mm x 40mm custom-cut foam n Construction adhesive n Primer n Acrylic paint sample pot n 850mm-square fabric n 4G x 25mm white timber screws n 360mm x 440mm-diameter ceramic pot

Diy Toolkit

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Use a jigsaw to cut two circles from MDF, add foam, then cover in heavy curtain fabric to top off a ceramic pot for storage. It also makes a handy side table 1 2 3

‘Urban’ 220-270cm x 223cm linen room darkening eyelet curtain, $89.90, I/N: 0376482. Some products are not available at all Bunnings stores, but may be ordered.

3 Position the top circle on the foam to trim the excess with a utility knife. Tip: The foam doesn’t fit the full circle, so create a full pad by joining the offcut to the large piece. Apply adhesive between them and on the circle, press to join. Cut the foam around the circle.

4 Wipe the circles with a cloth to remove dust. Prime then paint the inner circle with two coats, including around the edges, with a mini roller, leaving to dry after each. Tip: The top circle is 450mm diameter, the inner is 390mm.

5 Position the fabric right-side down, then use the moulding and nail to mark out a 840mm circle and cut with scissors. Position the top circle at the centre, foam facing down. Working around the circle, from opposite sides, pull and pleat the fabric to staple.

6 On the inner circle, mark 30mm in from the edge to predrill eight evenly spaced holes with a 2mm bit, then countersink with a 6mm bit. Apply adhesive, centre the inner circle and secure with 25mm screws. Place the top on a 440mmdiameter ceramic pot.