May 2016
FOOD & DRINK 19
brixtonblog.com
R EVI EW • B LU E JAY AT COR N E RCOPIA
Simple and seasonal By Nikki Griffiths
from local hero Jones, the Butcher. After taking my first bite, I already knew The most promising early indicator of a it was going to be a good evening. My good restaurant is a simple and seasonal crispy lamb shoulder with anchovy and menu. And in the spring simple cooking green sauce was sublime – juicy shreds of can shine its brightest. With the best lamb lamb topped with an intense wild garlic of the year and some of the tastiest, ripest pesto with salty notes of the sea. greens, chefs can be confident in their Alongside it, the supple, smoked haddock ingredients with no need to overcomplicate. with a gentle curry butter and topped with The result, if done well, is something lentils and roasted whole cherry tomatoes elegant, grown-up and delicious. was the perfect balance of earthy and fresh. So imagine my delight when I read a On to mains. I’d ordered a whole sea bass host of springtime pickings from a six-line which came expertly cooked on top of soft menu, as I sat down to dinner at Blue Jay. leeks, entangled with masses of dill and Owned by chef Sherri Dymond, Blue Jay served with yogurt and sumac (a tangy, has just celebrated one year in residence at lemony Middle Eastern spice). Cornercopia inside Brixton Village. This dish, to me, sums up everything Sherri takes great pride in her “baby” great about uncomplicated, speaks-forBlue Jay and does it for the love of feeding itself food and the often underrated skill of people good food, which they enjoy. She’s combining just a few ingredients to achieve usually found happily cooking in the an amazing output. In fact, Sherri’s cooking kitchen, leaving the front of house in some and her combinations remind me a lot of very capable hands. We visited Blue Jay Ducksoup, one of my favourite Soho haunts, on a busy Saturday well known for getting night (we were able to this style just right. We decided to share a slice secure a booking – a Our second main was rarity in Brixton) and the most tender braised of the rhubarb yogurt cake. I were greeted by just one have craved it every day since. beef short rib, served lady tending to all the on top of a cauliflower customers. I didn’t catch almost-purée (it her name, but so lovely and enthusiastic had better texture than a purée) and was she that I actually assumed her to be mushrooms. Another clever combination the owner. Her energy was quite infectious by Sherri mixing one of the most savoury, and she was a joy to spend the evening rich meats with the mild nuttiness of a with, displaying a huge amount of passion classic vegetable. for Blue Jay. Neither of us were ready to call it a night The space itself is made up of a handful just yet and so had a listen to the dessert of tables around the edge of the unit and a menu. Sherri cooks up two changeable couple of bar stools for perching on inside. desserts per night, plus there’s the option of Reclaimed wooden furniture is topped with a cheese board. After a short deliberation, jugs of pussy willow and wine is served in a we decided to share a slice of the rhubarb jumble of glass beakers. yogurt cake. I have craved it every day Speaking of the wine – there’s just one since. My goodness – the sourness of the red and one white, chosen by Sherri and the yoghurt, amplified by the tangy rhubarb but team. Both were pleasant enough, although then tamed by the sweetness of the superthey weren’t necessarily the grape I’d light sponge is something I can’t forget and choose – the red much fruitier and lighter can’t wait to taste again. than my preference. Bottles of prosecco If you haven’t noticed by now, I’m a are also available and the table next to us really big fan of Sherri and her baby. It’s seemed to be enjoying those thoroughly. certainly on-par with some of the best The stocked bottled beer is from local cooking there is in Brixton, if not further brewer London Beer Lab. Out of three afield, and I for one hope that Blue Jay’s options we tried the one described to us residency at Cornercopia is sticking around as tropical, which tasted just that – a a while longer. deliciously citrussy IPA. Sherri’s menu perfectly encapsulates Blue Jay @Cornercopia, Brixton Village simple springtime. What’s more, all her Open Wednesday–Sunday lunchtimes ingredients are sourced locally including and Thursday, Friday, Saturday evenings fish from inside Brixton Village and meat bluejaybrixton@gmail.com
RHUBARB YOGURT CAKE: Not to be forgotten
CRISPY LAMB SHOULDER WITH ANCHOVY AND GREEN SAUCE: Sublime
Long-established and family-run, we provide the finest meat to Brixton’s best and award-winning restaurants. Enjoy our quality meat at home, Jones the Butcher now open to the public. We make our own sausages. Retail • Wholesale • Catering Orders Butchery Masterclasses 1 Dulwich Road London SE24 0NT T: 020 7274 4629 Monday to Wednesday: 5am to 12.30pm Thursday and Friday: 5am to 1.00pm Saturday: 9am to 1pm
Meat, the way it’s meant to be SEA BASS: Summing up everything great about uncomplicated, speaks-for-itself food