B O O K ---------------
l.o .c.k. Labels of common Kin BREAD & BUTTER BERLIN Summer 2012
summer 2012 ---------------
B O O K
PUBLISHER BREAD & butter GmbH & Co. KG Münzstraße 13 10178 Berlin, Germany EDITORIAL OFFICE BREAD & butter GmbH & Co. KG Corporate Publishing Münzstraße 13 10178 Berlin, Germany Tel. +49 (0)30 400 44 0 Fax +49 (0)30 400 44 101 www.breadandbutter.com DISCLAIMER The L.O.C.K. Book is published by BREAD & butter GmbH & Co. KG, Münzstraße 13, 10178 Berlin, Germany. Contributions in which the author or company is named, do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. Place of jurisdiction is Berlin, Germany. COPYRIGHT All rights reserved by BREAD & butter GmbH & Co. KG. The copying of graphic design or information with regard to the use of texts fragments of texts or image material demands prior written consent from the publisher. Images & Logotypes Delivered by and property of the respective L.O.C.K. brands.
MANAGING EDITOR Jenny Boers CREATIVE DIRECTION Robert Dizdarevi´ c Graphic Design & IMAGE EDITING Anja Decker ADVERTISING Jenny Boers Alexander Kernlinger PRODUCTION Kathleen Hiller PRINTING Druckhaus Schöneweide GmbH Ballinstraße 15 12359 Berlin, Germany CIRCULATION 4.000 copies
Every Vingetorix ® product is the result of more than 70 years experience in manu facturing fabrics. But that’s not all. These products answer the call for a simple and important requirement: sporty, everyday clothing whose functionality is up there with that of outdoor weatherproof clothing yet whose ecological footprint is as negligible as possible. The yarns used for Vingetorix ® products are refined, woven and finished in Switzerland. Meet us at the Fire Dept. 11 weatherproof, 100% organic Cotton, sustainable, Swiss made
CONTENT --------------WELCOME by Alexander Kernlinger. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 08 special features Vingetorix advertorial. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 05 Lightning Bolt. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 PEdALED. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Wolverine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 L.O.C.K. - Labels of Common Kin Summer 2012 Brands: A.O.CMS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 AG Adriano Goldschmied. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Aigle. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Armor Lux. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Baracuta. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Barbour. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Blauer. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Blue de Gênes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Brooks Brothers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Brooks England. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Buttero. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Canada Goose. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Care Label. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Carhartt Work in Progress. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Chevignon Heritage by Milan Vukmirovic .. 46 Clip & Rope. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Danner Stumptown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Dehen 1920. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Denham. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Denim Demon Jeans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Dr. Martens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Driza-Bone. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Dukes Finest Artisan. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 Eastpak . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Edsor. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 Edwin. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 Farah. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 Filson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 Fred Perry. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 Frye . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 G-Star RAW Selection. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 G.R.P. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 Gant Rugger. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 Gilded Age . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 Gitta Plotnicki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 Gloverall. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 Goorin Bros.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 Hartford. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 Hemley.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Heschung. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96
Hobo Shoes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 HTC-Hollywood Trading Company. . . . . . . . 100 Jack Flynn. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 Johnson Motors, Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 K-Way. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106 Laco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 Lasco. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 Lightning Bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 Ludwig Reiter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114 Lyle & Scott . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116 Massaua . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Meindl. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 Merz b. Schwanen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 Midori. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124 N.D.C. Made By Hand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 Nigel Cabourn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128 Noodles Noodles & Noodles Corp. . . . . . . . . 130 Nudie Jeans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 P.A.P Made in Sweden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134 Pantherella. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 Pedaled .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138 Penfield. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 Pike Brothers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142 Primeboots. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 Prps Japan. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146 Prps Goods & Co . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148 R.M. Williams. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150 Re: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152 Red Wing Shoes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154 Robinson Les Bains. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156 Roy Rogers Rugged. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158 Saint James . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160 Salvatore Piccolo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162 Schiesser Revival. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164 Sebago. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166 Sorel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168 Stetson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170 Stockman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172 Superga. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 Tanner Goods. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176 Tellason . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178 The Last Conspiracy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180 Three Animals. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182 Tricker’s. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184 Viberg Boot. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186 Wahts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188 Walk-Over. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190 Wiggy's. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192 Windsor. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194 Wolsey. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196 Wolverine 1000 Mile Collection. . . . . . . . . . 198
l.o .c.k. Labels of common Kin ---------------
The architectural name is Hangar 7, better known as L.O.C.K. - Labels of Common Kin. After leaving the entry gates and a 600 metre walk towards the very right hall of the Airport BerlinTempelhof, you will enter this unique section which varies from any other trading platform. L.O.C.K. is the destination and source for heritage signature brands and authentic contemporary newcomers sharing their passion for craftsmanship, precision and quality. These Labels of Common Kin find themselves concentrated and embedded in rough but warm stand constructions to showcase their strong philosophy: their goods. At first glance you see a
well-selected number of various labels which the visitor might tend to cluster into different categories. Compared directly, they appear to be diverse, but in fact are united here in their common uniqueness of attitude and soul. Diving more deeply into the philosophy of each single actor on this platform and taking a closer look at the new collec‑ tions and their inspirations reveals that this mixed forest is the fundamental soil of something special, something unique. It is our exercise to capture, accentuate and channel these spirits and pass them on to our visitors. For those who consider heritage as contemporary fashion, this platform seems the right one. For those who con‑
sider heritage as the result of doing products the right way, this platform is the only one. In its 7th season, this island of an elaborated business platform continues to be on the move to cater to your needs for proper business in brand building, communication, marketing and sales. Being well-prepared supports you to reach your business goals there, attending with a good mood enhances your work. Take this wing and fly high!
And if you feel like taking a break, step outside the system into the OUT. LOCK and enjoy the music, the view, the Berlin atmosphere of BREAD & BUTTER. With the 6th edition of the L.O.C.K. Book we proudly present the Labels of Common Kin at BREAD & BUTTER in Summer 2012. Enjoy exploring!
lightning bolt The story of Jonathan Paskowitz
surfing is mental spiritual and physical --------------Try to imagine growing up in Hawaii with your brothers. Living on the beach, not a care in the world. Then one day your dad says we need to adventure, travel, go see the world and help people who are less fortunate than us. I could never have dreamt of what was to become of our lives.
My father came from a poor family and became a doctor to help people. When we were kids we had a camper and would drive from one place to another helping people who needed a doctor, and everywhere we went we took our surfboards and surfed along the way. The road back then was fullâ€…
of experience and crazy journeys. My dad took us to the road for a few reasons but mostly to have a tight family that lived and shared their live like a more primitive family, where life was more important than the accumulation of wealth. Surfing was a perfect addition to that style of living. Surfing is mental, spiritual and physical all the things my father loved and taught us to love and admire. We surfed with soâ€… many amazing people and each one had lessons to teach. Duke Kahanamoku, Wally Forsyth, Woody Brown legends of the past and Gerry Lopez, Reno Abellira, Barry Kanaiaupuni heros of middle earth to Kelly Slater, Martin Potter, Shaun Tomson and
Rabbit Bartholomew. At some point dreams have to mix with reality so I tried to find a way to support myself and still surf. When I met Manuel GonĂ§alves, a Portuguese entrepreneur who had a dream of bringing back Lightning Bolt, and having grown up with Gerry Lopez and Rory and Reno, the guys behind the brand, I felt it was a great opportunity to do something special. Now a few season later I am so proud of the product we make and the people who make it. Our favorite surf band the Allah-Las are coming with us to BREAD & BUTTER and we are bringing the whole team to hangout and chill Deutschland style. Thanks for the love! Aloha! Jonathan
interview with Mr. Hideto Suzuki / PEdALED
fashion and function Hideto Suzuki is a fashion designer in Tokyo, referring to himself as “an ordinary Japanese person whose path was changed drastically by an encounter with a bike”. He enjoys the urban city life of Tokyo, riding on a bicycle and designing for his label PEdALED. ---------------
How was the idea for PEdALED born? When I started to include cycling into my life, I was annoyed to find that there were great race jerseys to achieve speed in cycling, but no clothing for an easy and comfortable everyday life with the bicycle. I prefer to live my life with ease and comfort, and so PEdALED was born from my personal needs. Can you tell us about necessary adjustments to be well dressed on a bike ? To achieve comfort on and off a bike, we need to allow certain ease for the movement and angles of limbs and body. Just altering for ease and function will spoil the shape, visible details for safety such as
reflecting tapes could turn clothing into workers’ clothes; it is important to balance fashion and function. PEdALED clothing is designed for both, and I like using ma‑ terials with natural touch and feel but waterproof, breathable and ecologically friendly. What are new collaborations and highlights? In collaboration with Diemme, an Italian shoe maker, we have new cycling shoes as well as sneakers for town use that are also very comfortable on the bike. In our “Born Again” series, military supplies such as clothes, bags and sheets are turned into clothing to be worn in a peaceful land rat‑ her than in the battle fields.
Wolverine's factory and tannery built in Rockford, Michigan in the early 1900s
interview with Christina Vernon / Wolverine
timeless style that‘s built t o last Wolverine has been hand-crafting built-to-last boots with the finest materials for more than a century. Christina Vernon, product line manager for the brand’s heritage collections, oversees the ever-growing collection today. ---------------
What was the motivation to introduce the Wolverine 1000 Mile Collection in 2009? We saw this movement toward finely crafted and authentic, American-made style, which is what we’ve been doing for a long time. The 1000 Mile Boot is an iconic part of Wolverine’s history, and it was a natural way to re-introduce our heritage to the world. With every archival pattern we introduce we are striving for timeless style that’s build to last, with the same quality and craftsmanship that Wolverine’s been synonymous with since the very beginning. What is the inspiration for the 1000 Mile Collection? The fundamental inspiration is
Wolverine’s archival patterns; we have a library of archival designs to pull from, designs that have withstood the test of time and are still relevant today. Any upcoming projects or collaborations? For S/S13, Wolverine is continuing its partnership with New York designer Samantha Pleet for a new line of Wolverine 1000 Mile by Samantha Pleet, including boots and sandals. This collaboration has been a perfect fit for us because Samantha has a flair for taking specific historical references and turning them into something new, but just as timeless. The spring line is very wearable and fun, but still stays true to our heritage of quality.
summer 2012 ---------------
B R A N D S
GREAT STRAIGHTFORWARD PIECES ----------------
A.O.CMS is a clothing brand founded in 2006 by Rodrigo Gutierrez Benavente in Stockholm. Today Rodrigo steers the A.O.CMS ship together with a strong creative team consisting of brand director Moses Voigt, photographer Fredrik Skogkvist and editorial director Martin Thomasson. Each member of the team leaves his individual mark on the brand: the A.O.CMS spirit is a perfect example of a whole that is bigger than the sum of its parts. A testament to simplicity and sustainability, A.O.CMS makes affordable, wellresearched basic garments in styles that have earned their natural place in the fashion canon by withstanding the test of time. Every design A.O.CMS creates is the sum of all accumulated knowledge that the team extracts from the history of the garment. But just
quoting a garment’s legacy is not an end in itself. The label is not a ”heritage” brand. A.O.CMS therefore always approaches its journey and style from a contemporary perspective. A.O.CMS believes in the longevity of a wardrobe of solid styles with strong identities – like the t-shirt, the sweatshirt and the jeans. They do not aspire to make their mark through innovative fashion design. Rather, they want to raise the bar for what’s considered good quality for basic garments. Great straightforward pieces for a reasonable price that make the wearer feel good – that’s what they do. Although simple in look and style, each piece is precision-engineered to be an indispensable building block in the ever-shifting mosaic of contemporary style. A reliable purchase!
CHIC. CLASSY. SOPHISTICATED. ----------------
AG Adriano Goldschmied ---------------
Established in 2000, AG was founded by long time denim guru Adriano Goldschmied and industry leader in quality denim manufacturing, Yul Ku. For the past 11 years, AG has become a recognized fashion brand dedicated to creating authentic, innovative and unique designs with state of the art washes. In 2009, the brand launched their sportswear division making AG a true contemporary fashion brand. Made in the USA, AG has become an industry favourite among retailers, stylists and celebrities with continued growth amongst its loyal fan base. AG Spring 2013 inspiration is drawn from the French Riviera and California Rancher. Feminine, light, airy and chic are words that come to mind when describing the look for the AG girl as she
vacations on the French Riviera. Novelty fabrics, trim, and new silhouettes bring this concept to life. On the men’s side, the look is easy and free. Rolled cuffs, shorter hems and shorts, all perfect to be worn with sandals or boating shoes, complete this overall concept. The California Rancher is a denimfocused delivery, which draws inspiration from the old American West, think 50’s cowboy movies and California rancher style. Strong washes with subtle rodeo-inspired details, such as studs, embroidery and beading, tie this concept together. It’s sexy, with a hint of rancher. For men’s, our variety of denim washes complement this concept perfectly. There are also two new denim jacket silhouettes, epitomizing the California Rancher style.
FRENCH RUBBER CRAFTSMAN SINCE 1853 ----------------
In 1853 the American Hiram Hutchinson created the brand “A l’aigle” in France. He obtained the patent from Charles Goodyear for the vulcanisation of rubber, previously used exclusively for tyre manufacturing, in order to make boots and shoes. To this day, this expertise remains concentrated in a single workshop in France, where, from the initial preparation of the rubber to the final touches, every boot is hand made under the attentive control of craftsmen. This unique heritage guarantees the waterproofness, durability and comfort of every product. In tradition to this experience and know-how, Aigle launched, in the late eighties, its first clothing and footwear collection. The Aigle range dresses the whole family from head to toe with authentic and durable clothing and footwear combining style and function; all built
around one mission: to live at one with nature. The holiday spirit of the 1950s, underpinned by fun-loving, carefree and spontaneous days, marks the mood of the Spring Summer collection 2013. The collection is built around iconic pieces: the Campus parka, the Fishtail, the safari jacket and the Duffle Coat now available in waxed cotton, for a truly authentic water resistant product. The designs are minimal, refined and with fresh and bright colours. The “Globe-trotter” attitude comes to life with contemporary shapes, where style and function come together and are tailored for every destination. Renowned for its established knowhow in vulcanised shoes, Aigle revisits its range of canvas shoes in this collection and offers a wider fitting coloured rubber bootee. An authentic wardrobe that crosses the generations and encapsulates the Aigle style.
BRET ON HIST ORY ----------------
Armor Lux ---------------
The Bonneterie d’Armor was founded in 1938 by Swiss-German businessman Walter Hubacher. He started with creating a production of high quality underwear and striped Breton shirts under the brand “Armor lux”. Today, Bonneterie d’Armor includes three production facilities in France with 650 employees and more than 70 years of experience in the fabrication of high quality nautical fashion “Made in France”. Armor lux is proud to be
able to produce everything from fabric to ready-made-garment under one roof as they are convinced that this is the only way to maintain high quality standards. The “Armor lux” Summer 2013 collection sees revisited historic nautical garments from Brittany like the Breton striped shirt, the Caban or the Kabig. Deuit da zizoleiñ istor Breizh! (Breton for: Come and discover Breton history)
MADE IN ENGLAND
RE-IMA GINED ICONS ----------------
In celebration of its 30th anniversary, Manchester, England, 1937. It was WP Lavori in Corso, that distributes from this busy backdrop that the BaraMADE IN ENGLAND worldwide Woolrich John Rich & Bros, cuta G9 Harrington Jacket was born. Woolrich Woolen Mills, BD Baggies Baracuta later became one of the most and Avoncelli, announces the acquisiiconic brands to come out of the UK â€“âˆ’ tion of Baracuta in its portfolio as of famous for the G9 and G4 jackets that Spring/Summer 2013. were worn by legends that included The S/S 13 collection respects the Elvis Presley, Steve McQueen, Frank venerable tradition of the brand: small Sinatra and the England world cup fine tuning of the G9 and G4 made in team in 1966. UK and the introduction of 24 new Beyond the simple sophistication and styles. S/S 13 will include two labels: the lineage, what makes the Baracuta the core collection known as ivory G9 so enduring is its iconic place in label, based on the iconic G9 that inpopular culture. The Baracuta G9 is cludes the original made in UK and woven into the very fabric of British a new outerwear range based on the youth culture, a fact underpinned by the icons of the 20th century invariicon reinterpretation, and the designer ably being pictured in it at one time range known as blue label, which is a or another. 75 years after the Baracuta project designed by Kenichi Kusano, former director of the Japanese instiG9 Harrington Jacket was first cretution Beams+. ated it remains a symbol and an icon.
MODERN TAKE ON COUNTRY CREDENTIALS ----------------
Barbour, the iconic 5th generation family owned British brand, was established in 1894, with quality, durability and fit for purpose as the founding principles. This season, Barbour’s weatherproof clothing is refreshed and updated. Fits and fabrics are given a modern twist and injection of colour. Shirts and knits take inspiration from country, motorbike and military archives. The Premium menswear range, Beacon Heritage, reworks details to create a collection of authenticity and invention. New for S/S 13 are shirting, knitwear and an emphasis on colour. California’s Lake Elsinore is the background for S/S 13’s Barbour Steve McQueen collection: sand and sky blue colours, sun bleached and sand-
worn finishes and the signature stars & stripes. The International range features ‘Heritage’ in monochrome shades of black, white and grey. The more tailored ‘Tourer’ presents new fabrics and colours. Denim shirts, cotton knits plus retro graphic T-shirts complete the contemporary-edged col‑ lection. Influenced by Barbour’s nau‑ tical past, the Military collection is functional and modern featuring strong elements of blue and yellow alongside traditional olive. Rich with earthy greens and browns, Heritage Country is inspired by the English rural landscape. Embroidery on jackets, knits and shirts, feature dogs and pheasants in a modern take on Barbour’s country credentials.
Uncompromising Performance ----------------
Blauer --------------For over 60 years, Blauer has been the leading brand in the U.S. for supplying technical garments to all Law Enforcement and to some select sectors of the U.S. Army, U.S. Navy officers or the Commando guarding the White House. Under its motto “Uncompromising Performance”, Blauer equips its customers with outerwear protecting them against heat and cold, water and danger. In the U.S., Blauer garments are only sold through specialized channels such as Police Agencies. In 2001, FGF Industry SpA CEO and Art Director, Enzo Fusco was inspired to create the first Blauer USA Collection for the worldwide fashion market. A licensing agreement was in fact signed for production and global distribution of Blauer clothing which manages to be at the cutting edge and in total alignment with the medium-high level, top quality fashion market trend based on the genuine spirit of the brand, while
retaining all of the essential, technical and constructive features of the pieces and original fabrics. Blauer products are aimed at consumers who love traditional USA-made brands and technical clothing with real history and a total handle on the genuine, original article despite being reworked and often innovated in its comfort, styling and wearability, and also brought up to date with the right “fit” for the international fashion market. In addition to the two brands extensions Blauer Helmets and Blauer Shoes & Accessories, this year the brand has signed a co-branding agreement with Edwin, one of the most important international jeans brands, to present for Spring/Summer 2013 a capsule jeans collection, only for men, called “Edwin for Blauer USA” in two different styles and denim fabrics, all of them will be presented in different levels of ageing.
MANY THINGS PERISH, FEW SURVIVE. ----------------
Blue de Gênes ---------------
Founded in 2010 in Kolding, Denmark by Ole Madesen, Bleu de Gênes is a Danish denim label taking its inspiration from the origin of jeans: the history of jeans started in Genova, Italy, more than 400 years ago. At that time, the harbour workers in Genova used a robust fabric called „Geanes fustian“, made of Arab cotton, for working clothes and sailcloth. The material was dyed blue with indigo, very strong and thus well suited for work pants for these hardworking dockers and sailors. This fabric was exported to other countries, and eventually known as the Blue from Genova, or in French „Bleu de Gênes“ since Genova at that time belonged to France. The English adapta-
tion of the expression then became „Blue Jeans“. The story behind the blue jeans and Blue de Gênes is the starting point of this collection, a clothing line with an authentic look and high quality materials, featuring hand knitted sweaters, and Japanese selvage fabrics. Blue de Gênes jeans are produced in Italy, and just as Blue de Gênes is a family run business, the suppliers are small family run factories. The quality of these rough jeans is never being compromised. All styles have a strong and unique identity and a design that will last for several years. Claiming that it is indigo that is „flowing in their veins“, Blue de Gênes promise to continue the legacy of Genova.
AN AMERICAN CLASSIC ----------------
Brooks Brothers ---------------
Established 1818 in New York by Henry Sands Brooks, Brooks Brothers was the first ready-to-wear fashion emporium in America, and has continued throughout history with iconic product introductions including seersucker, madras, the non-iron shirt and the original button-down collar. Nearly two centuries later, Brooks Brothers is proud to uphold the same traditions and values and to be the destination for ladies and gentlemen from every generation by maintaining a steadfast commitment to exceptional service, quality, and style. The Brooks Brothers mission remains the same today as when H. Sands Brooks first wrote it: “To make and deal only in
merchandise of the best quality, to sell it at a fair profit only and to deal only with those who seek and are capable of appreciating such merchandise” In 1901, Brooks Brothers introduced its “Number 1” model sack suit after noticing university students starting to take a flatiron to their three-button jackets to create a two-button lapel collar. Brooks Brothers applauded the act and in turn offered university students the opportunity to purchase an official twobutton suit − the “Number 1” sack suit was born. More than 100 years later, Brooks Brothers returns to Flatiron, igniting the new generation with this spirit of youthful independence.
TIMELESS MASTERPIECES ----------------
Brooks England ---------------
John Boultbee Brooks began making horse harnesses and other leather goods in Birmingham in 1866. After the death of his horse he took to the bicycle, but found the seat so uncomfortable he vowed to do something about it. In 1882 he patented designs for a leather bicycle saddle whose subsequent production would help grow his small workshop into the world‘s largest manufacturer of leather saddles and bicycling accessories by the mid 20th century. Over almost a century and a half, the name BROOKS has been a byword in quality craftsmanship and traditional manufacturing, without ever losing the pioneering spirit of its founder. BROOKS
continues to deliver relevant, beautiful, and functional designs to modern cyclists with modern lifestyles, creating a line of timeless masterpieces of functional cycling bags, handcrafted in England and Italy. Since the 19th century BROOKS has developed a wide array of satchels, knapsacks, bicycle luggage and outwear in addition to the well-known leather saddles and accessories. Today BROOKS continues this tradition by offering a wide range of cycle bags with a strong focus on function through the distinct use of fine materials and contemporary styling, upholding the company slogan “Style on the move”.
L OCAL INGREDIENTS ----------------
Buttero emerges from the sun beaten hills of Tuscany: the best traditions of Italian shoemaking refined into leather footwear of premium quality. Named after Tuscany’s old-time cowboys, the Buttero brand is renowned around the world for its superior leather riding and casual boots. Handmade by craftsmen in Stabbia - Tuscany, the production company honors as of today the Tuscan recipe book with simple, honest, and quality local ingredients. Buttero uses only the best local vegetabletanned leathers named Vachetta, which will age beautifully with usage, like the region’s famous wines. A special sewing
construction binds the upper to the sole unit. The silhouettes of the shoes and boots benefits from the Italian eye for form, proportion and style. The result: a fusion of delicate rawness and timeless elegance. Founded in 1974 by Mauro Sani, who set out to make the best riding boots in the world, Buttero remains owned and run by the Sani family. Buttero’s soul – and sole – is bound to Tuscany. The footwear has and always will be made in this enchanted region of Italy. Buttero manufactures shoes with a passion for tradition, creativity and authenticity: the Buttero mark is a symbol of quality. Il Profumo della pelle.
ASK ANY ONE WHO KNO WS™ ----------------
Canada Goose ---------------
For more than 50 years, Canada Goose has been producing authentic extreme weather gear born of purpose and function, designed for those who need the confidence that come from quality. Beginning with a modest line of jackets and woolen shirts created in a small warehouse in Toronto, Canada Goose today has grown to be recognized internationally as the leading manufacturer of extreme weather outerwear in the world. Canada Goose has kept the production at home in Canada,
believing that no one can do it better – but the products enjoy a truly global reach. Canada Goose is born of purpose and function - equally at home in the weather research stations of the frigid South Pole as it is on the windswept Iditarod dog sledding trail in Alaska, on movie sets in remote locations around the world, and in the most exclusive high-fashion centers. Wherever people need protection from the elements, top quality and iconic style, you’ll find Canada Goose.
JEANS IS B ACK ----------------
Care Label --------------The 2007 meeting of Leopoldo Durante (with his twenty old years of international experience in denim), Enrico Gallo (expert in defining and developing market/product strategies and strategies to support the sales network for distribution policies) and Lapo Elkann (authentic interceptor of innovation), gave rise to the creation of the Care Label project and We Care srl, the company owning the brand. The destiny and nature of Care label are enclosed in its name, which plays on the dual meaning of a “careful” brand and a “care” label - care as in attention and respect. Care is careful in the search for the best quality selvage denim and the other materials used. Care and attention is also paid to details such as the inside silk-screen printing or the pure copper buttons that over time oxidise to reveal the cotton flower logo. The “HERITAGE 101” denim is a twill 3/1
right hand 100% cotton, weight 12 oz/ yd2, with indigo warp thread turning to red. This type of denim is produced in Italy on original 1950s looms. Exclusively manufactured for Care label, this product features the utmost quality as far as yarn and dyeing are concerned, with selvage edges in red and blue colour contrast. The Care label keywords are: style, passion, professionalism, experience, creativity, care and respect. Care label does not focus on a highly visible, ostentatious logo or trademark: in some models in the collection, the label on the back is covered by a ribbed paper patch, and shows up only after prolonged wear or a few machine washes. The “EUROPEAN DENIM LINE” is a blend of tradition and innovation, a new direction resulting from a fusion of different cultures, featuring the branding on the right back pocket and fifth pocket.
BEST IN CLASS ----------------
Carhartt Work in Progress ---------------
Carhartt Work In Progress (WIP) is the avant-garde way of living the Carhartt brand, reshaping the outstanding Carhartt legacy. In 1889, Hamilton Carhartt founded the Carhartt company in Detroit. His first products were workmen overalls made of denim fabric and duck, commonly called canvas, that later became Carhartt´s trademark fabric. Since the early days the brand was dedicated to the mission of providing Best In Class apparel, tailored to meet the highest standards of quality, durability and comfort. Founded in 1994, Work In Progress initiated a distribution network for Carhartt in Europe, introducing a selection of classic products from the original workwear range into a new
market. Success was immediate: the authentic Carhartt products quickly became popular with both fans of traditional US heritage garments and with the nascent European urban culture scene. The first product range designed exclusively by WIP for Europe followed in 1997. Since then, under license and never without the expressed consent of the company HQ in Dearborn, Michigan, Carhartt WIP has carefully adapted, re-interpreted and re-fitted workwear cuts for the demands of an active life in the urban environment, remaining true to Carhartt´s core values: quality, durability and comfort and becoming the globally respected contemporary brand that it is today.
REINTERPRETED ICONIC PIECES ----------------
Chevignon Heritage by Milan Vukmirovic ---------------
Launched in 1979, the Chevignon brand was a reinterpretation of the American dream of the fifties. Two years later it took wing with the creation of a distressed leather aviator jacket. In no time this model became a must have in school yards. In 1984 the label won a similar following with the Togs Unlimited Puffer Jacket. This incredible success encouraged the simultaneous launch of the Kids and then the Girl line in 1989. Since 2007, Chevignon is owned by the French Vivarte group. Chevignon, the dream brand of all eighties teenagers and the French artistic director Milan Vukmirovic, who belongs to that generation, joined up to launch a new line, Chevignon Heritage by Milan Vukmirovic, for AW 12. Milan gives a modern and trendy twist to this collection, as the
young successful and hip Artistic Director he is, both as a renowned stylist and photographer. Made up of eight outfits for men and women, this collection reinterprets the codes and iconic pieces of the label inspired by the American dream since it began in 1979. Chevignon Heritage by Milan Vukmirovic is for all those who wore a distressed leather aviator jacket or a Togs Unlimited puffer jacket in their younger days. As life has not diminished their deep attachment to this cult label, the idea is to entice them once more with contemporary models that evoke that fabulous past. Their price position is slightly higher than the traditional Chevignon ranges, because of the special care taken over the choice of materials and the exceptional manufacturing quality.
THE FORGO TTEN GOLD MINE ----------------
Clip & Rope ---------------
The lives and adventures of the prospectors and explorers, who tromped about America in search of gold, were rich in experience. The dream of striking wealth and returning home with gold brought thousands of people on the hunt for eternal happiness, not at least Harvey. His design was inspired by a certain dark
and mystic Gold Mine. A Gold Mine with a guilty conscience. Grey mountains and blue rivers permeated the country side nearby. The merciless nature, where the sandy dark colours dominated, caught and captured Harvey’s mind. Once again, the unimaginable nature became Harvey’s undying inspiration source.
CRAFTING HIGHER STANDARDS ----------------
Danner Stumptown ---------------
A Danner boot is a mark of unsacrificing quality. It’s been that way since 1932, the year Charles Danner decided to open his boot making business in the midst of the Great Depression and risk his future on a stubborn belief that – regardless of the economy – superior craftsmanship mattered. Establishing roots in Portland, Oregon, Danner began crafting boots for loggers that could stand up to bruising punishment from the rain, mud, and timber. The Pacific Northwest was the ultimate proving ground for Danner boots, and Danner boot makers. From the earliest days, they used only the best materials and only the most skilled craftsmen. Danner tests and grades every single piece of leather by hand.
Six separate times, actually. Before a boot leaves their factory, it’s touched by over one hundred different craftsmen. Hold a Danner boot in your hands, and you’ll feel the thickness of the leather. Give them a close look, and you’ll see quality details like hand cut leather, intricately detailed hardware, and triple stitching. It’s easy to talk about higher standards, but it’s incredibly difficult to live up to them. Since 1932, that’s exactly what Danner has been doing. This year, in honor of their 80 year commitment to protecting the craftsmanship of a well made boot, they are releasing two limited edition styles, both hand crafted in Portland Oregon with the finest Horween leather.
MADE T O LAST ----------------
Dehen 1920 --------------William Peter Dehen emigrated from Germany to the US in 1903, bringing with him an incredibly strong work ethic, a healthy respect for tradition, and a fearless, pioneering spirit. He was equal parts proud of his heritage and thankful to his adopted country that presented him with a whole new world of opportunities. In 1920, he formed Dehen Knitting Company, producing school sweaters and work apparel. After WWII, they added car coats, motorcycle togs and other new styles to their repertoire, and expanded their school business into varsity jackets and cheerleading uniforms. It never ceased to be a family business, holding close to its traditional ways while the business grew and their capabilities expanded. They feel it is important to know where you came from in order to know where you’re going. They came from a place where history, integrity, and ex-
cellence matter – not fads, gimmicks, or quick fixes. William Dehen first built his business by knitting unique heavyweight wool sweaters that withstood the test of time. Today, the Dehen family is still committed to the tradition of manufacturing distinctive apparel, using time honoured methods and the highest quality materials. Dehen has stayed true to its roots – as the only Varsity clothing producer in the US still manufacturing custom jackets and sweaters in its own facilities, outfitting cheer squads across the US, and working with the 2nd and 3rd generations of family businesses that have grown up relying on the brand. Today, Dehen 1920 is a brand 90 years in the making, combining the best of it’s Ivy League heritage with the sensibility of today’s consumer for a new generation to experience the difference true craftsmanship makes in the way clothes look, fit and feel.
CONTRASTS AND O VERLAPS ----------------
Denham --------------Spring 2013 sees two seemingly contrary inspirations folded into the signature Denham design process of „worship tradition, destroy convention“ while maintaining the signature rigorous detailing. This season’s atmosphere takes subtle cues from both the world of the contemporary music festival (think Fuji Rocks, Japan) and modern contemporary military detailing. The two inspirations reveal surprising overlaps due to their shared emphasis on realtime utility, emblematic artwork, recontextualized camo-prints and tiny accents of color-shots and an array of modern nylons and nylon-blends. For men archetypal Denham styles like Duty field jacket, Bernal Bomber and Advisor Parka are all refined and released with renewed emphasis on detail in all-new fabrications. Materials include: Re-Cut retired skydiving parachute-nylon, silver-back waterproof-breathable packable nylon, cus-
tom-printed blue camo nylon and vivid blaze-blue cotton-nylon. New naturals include Danna R&D inflated-dip-dyed leather and indigo variations on spring bedford and rich linen. Workwear-influenced suiting is further explored with the latest edition of the „half-a-twopiece“ rugged-tailoring group. The „indigo dyestuff“ assortment also evolves with new denim, chambray and dip-dyed styles. For women focus is on the music-festival atmosphere, blending elements of gypset Bohemianism, pure Modernism, and a Rock’n’Roll edge. Styles like the Spy Zip unite these by combining a dip-dyed leather body with vintage blue-jean sleeves. The Sola trench fuses a sassy sixties A-line trench coat with details from a modern sweat hoodie and the Trooper fishtail parka returns Re-Cut from retired skydiving parachutes. Women‘s tailoring is less workwear and more modernist the new Fleur sportcoat and jersey-backed vest.
INHERENTLY T OUGH ----------------
Denim Demon Jeans --------------Denim Demon jeans were founded by the brothers Oskar, Anton and Patric, and their father Kjellåke. The family comes from Jämtland, a county 700 km north of Stockholm, home to the Sámi people, one of the largest indigenous cultures in Europe with a history dating back over 2,000 years. Reindeer herding, handicrafts and handmade clothing are the principle businesses. The Sámi are inherently tough people who withstand the harsh conditions such as -40 °C in winter with only a few hours of daylight. Each Denim Demon item is inspired by Sámi culture; be it a button with embossed reindeer antlers, the three colours of the South Sámi region, handmade horn features or just a simple red bar tack. As the clothes are designed with the Sámi in mind they need to be durable and hard wearing in order to withstand the rigors of Reindeer herding. During summer, the herders are on the fells guarding the new born calves from
predators and gathering the herd before marking up all the new reindeers. They wash their clothes in cold spring creeks and hang them in the sun to dry. Inspiration for the S/S13 collection: sun bleached garments, patch repairs and authentic denim washes, with high level Japanese fabrics from the Kurabo and Nishinbo mills, and durable 100% weatherproof jackets with taped seams. Key products for S/S13: a 15 oz heavy raw selvedge denim jean and jacket manufactured in Okayama, Japan, with Sami symbol print on the inside of the back yoke, a contrast belt loop in veg-tanned leather, peek-aboo selvedge, raised ridge belt loops, hidden rivets and hidden Sami inspired arcuates on back pockets, a denim shirt in a cotton/linen mix with snap buttons and mountain inspired back yoke, and a fully weatherproof camouflage parka in a membrane lined cotton canvas and taped seams. Perfect to wear when you‘re out working in the fells.
a british classic ----------------
Dr. Martens ---------------
Dr. Martens air-cushioned sole, designed by German inventor Dr. Klaus Maertens, was engineered to meet the specific need of providing additional support and comfort for a broken foot. Through an ad in the British Shoe & Leather News, Dr. Maertens met British boot makers R Griggs and Co, and in 1960, the first Dr. Martens boot was manufactured, with its trademark yellow stitch, grooved sole and heel-loop. It was a boot for workers: comfortable, durable and lightweight in comparison to its competitors at the time. Initially worn by postmen, policemen and everyday workers, the boots were adopted, customised and used as a tribal emblem by successive subcultures, decade after decade. Over the past 50 years, the Dr. Martens 1460 boot hasn’t changed. The original boot is still simple, versatile, functional and stylish all at the same time – yet still
associated with individuality, creativity and rebellion. Dr. Martens continue to make the Made In England collection at the unique Cobb’s Lane factory, which has been producing footwear for the Griggs family since 1901. Within this modest factory walls work a close-knit family of people steeped in traditional shoemaking methods. In amongst the smell of freshly cut leather and the noisy backdrop of pristinely preserved machinery, the unmistakable shape of a Dr. Martens boot begins to form: travelling the short length of the factory floor beginning with a small pile of tanned leather hides. The process takes the boot through various highly skilled stages of evolution until its final arrival – laced up and spotless – in a box, ready for a life of being cherished. Dr. Martens 1460 - an immediately recognisable, British product classic.
IT‘S A WAY OF LIFE ----------------
The very first Driza-Bone was born on the high seas in 1898, invented by a Scottish sailor named Edward Le Roy who discovered that the torn sails of windjammer ships could be recycled into long coats and sou’westers by painting the fabric with a mixture of oils. For Le Roy, what mattered most was purpose and reliability in a coat that needed to withstand the wet weather and constant sea spray. He then opened a small factory in Sydney, Australia, to produce more of the excellent wet weather coats whose popularity would come to make Driza-Bone a household name. For over 110 years, Driza-Bone has clothed the men who built the nation – from those in the sea trade and the
flourishing early industries of wool, livestock and wheat to those who built the railways, roads and highways of Australia. Driza-Bone travelled across the globe with the explorers who faced vast, rugged, virgin terrains, and served with the soldiers in two world wars. This extraordinary history has made Driza-Bone synonymous with quality, function and performance. This summer Driza-Bone presents a new authentic collection inspired by the indomitable and pioneering spirit of the windjammer era. Today, the company continues to use quality fabrics, finishes and the manufacturing techniques instilled with the philosophy of simple, comfortable, hard-wearing outdoor apparel.
Dukes â€“ Finest Artisan ---------------
Founded in 2008 in Vienna, DUKES collects rare original vintage leather belts, straps and bags from all over the world and refines them to become objects of art and collectorâ€™s items. The up to 50 years old products are restored, cleaned with special lotions, treated with natural oils, and embossed, riveted or refined with exotic leather, following old handicraft tradition. Special highlights are the pieces handpainted by former Vienna Augarten porcelain painters. Depending on the effort, the painting or refinement can take up to five hours, for custom-made pieces even longer. The DUKES FINEST ARTISAN philosophy is to create unique items possessing history and art character collectorâ€™s items for eternity. Contem-
porary topics, art history, music, street art, ancient cultures, nature and the spirit of life are leaving an imprint on the collections in the truest sense of the word, and serve as source of inspiration. The current collection, consisting of belts, bags, jackets, accessories and jewellery, was inspired by historical and contemporary art traditions of South American indigenous peoples. The production of beadwork, cave painting, indigo patterns and fabrics and the Argentinian Gaucho aesthetics serve as model for this collection. Thus highlights of the new collection include, apart from the embossed, painted or embellished belts, also Alpaca Ponchos refined with the finest leather, or bags combined with Peruvian fabrics.
VIRTUALLY INDESTRUCTIBLE ----------------
From a company that produced backpacks for the U.S. army in the 50s to the hip and happening lifestyle brand it is today… EASTPAK owes its early transformation to Mark Goldman who joined his father’s business in 1976. The brand has since become synonymous with fun, innovative, functional and virtually indestructible bags and travel gear worldwide. EASTPAK produces backpacks, shoulder bags, travel gear, apparel and accessories designed to unleash the urban nomad in you. All their products
have ingeniously thoughtful features to enable and enrich life in the city. EASTPAK is proud to offer you a snapshot of its high-end collections this season. Natural materials, bright colors, rich textures, luxury details, sophisticated features… EASTPAK has all the ingredients to transform the city into a playground of color, style and creativity. Discover the line-up of stylish and functional bags, packs, luggage items and accessories from the EASTPAK premium-distribution collections.
FIVE GENERATIONS OF TIMELESS ELEGANCE ----------------
Founded in 1909, the Kronen label has established itself as one of Berlin’s leading tie specialists. Using only the finest Italian silks, the brand adheres to the highest quality standards to continually ensure the classic and elegant signature style of its handmade accessories. The company celebrated its first success as the purveyor to the court of Wilhelm II, and gained international recognition as early as the Golden 20s. Heavily influenced by the British sense of style, the Kronen label adopted the name EDSOR in 1954 in reference to the sophistication of eternal British style icon EDward WindSOR. The crown–used as the label’s emblem since
1912–continues to serve as the brand’s logo. The EDSOR manufactory is located in Berlin’s vibrant Kreuzberg district, where the aesthetic concepts of style, grace and beauty are not only produced, but also lived daily. EDSOR’s exclusive biannual collections include ties, bows, pocket squares, hand lined scarves and shawls, cashmere scarves, ascots, cummerbunds and tailor-made dressing gowns. As the 5th generation head of EDSOR, Jan-Henrik M. Scheper-Stuke has been the face of the company since 2010. With his distinct EDSOR style, he epitomises both modern and timeless elegance, which keeps the company’s quality, authenticity and tradition alive.
HERITA GE PURITY WITH MODERN UTILITY ----------------
In 1947, Edwin Denim Company was established in Tokyo, by K.K. Tsunemi, the company name playing on the word “denim” with the “m” turned upside down. At first, Mr. Tsunemi had to import used denim from the U.S. since no denim was manufactured in Japan at the time: worn-out and dirty denim which had to be laundered and mended by hand in order to sell on to his customers. In 1951, domestically manufactured, but poor quality denim was available for the first time in Japan. Mr. Tsunemi was driven to create his own denims, with greater sophistication in fits, washes and quality. He crafted the first pair of Japanese made five pocket, signature 16oz Rainbow selvage denim in 1961. With genuine craftsmanship, quality and innovation at the heart of its identity, Edwin uses exclusive fabrics while employing unique technology, hand
wash processes and continual progression in design and fit, while remaining close to its Japanese roots and gaining inspiration from its historical denim archive dating back to 1947: Fusing heritage purity and manufacturing experience with modern utility. S/S 13 is inspired by a road trip to the coast where the sun is shining and keeps you warm: Strong and bright colours for an “endless summer”. As every season, Edwin has used new Japanese fabric for their tops and bottoms collection to develop a more smarter and “tailored” look. There are more colours in twill and T-shirts, all over printed denim fabric, as well as bleach and light denim base colour for washes. S/S 13 will also be the launch of the first step of the Edwin capsule collection developed with their friends from Blitz motorcycle: classic denim style amended on measure for their needs.
T OKY O ROCKABILLY ----------------
Farah --------------For S/S 13 Farah Vintage has turned to the land of the rising sun for inspiration, blending the machismo of 1950s Americana with the bright lights of Tokyo, to create an inspired mishmash of print, pattern, texture and colour, while staying true to the brand’s British roots and urban heritage. Outerwear continues to be bold, bright and proudly low-tech. Fabrics include new, lightweight waxed cottons, proofed canvases and heavy, traditional workwear twills. Sports inspired parkas sit alongside the classic British starched chore jacket, washed, half lined, unstructured linen blazers and an overhead jacket. Print influences come courtesy of traditional Japanese “Shibori” tiedye and 1950s Hawaiian shirts. Shirt styling again draws on 50s heritage, with new revere collars and a wider, shorter fit. Chambrays remain key, as do classic oxfords, horizontal stripes and the occasional summer barbeque
check: Think Mad Men meets Miami. Trousers return with the classic Albany in summer weight chambray and linen; slim crisp chinos in a range of rich 50’s colours and new, dropped crotched tapered styles in canvas, that lend a harder, urban edge to the traditional, tailored styles. Jersey features a range of bold stripes, textures and colours, with printed indigo tees, striped slub yarns and multi-coloured slub textures. Knitwear is lighter and brighter for summer. The crew neck is the only shape, and the colour palette is fresh and vibrant. In essence, Farah Vintage for S/S 13 is about being bold, embracing colour and mixing it up. The Farah 1920 theme for S/S 13 is “Heroes of Invention”: iconic clothing inspired by true innovators. Key items include a Charles Lindbergh inspired Aviator‘s jacket from 1927, an F. Scott Fitzgerald sport jacket circa 1940, and a cavalry twill carpenter pant from the 50’s.
MIGHT AS WELL HAVE THE BEST ----------------
When the Great Clondike Gold Rush started in 1897, C.C. Filson outfitted the fortune hunters rushing through Seattle on their way north. The men were in need of a barrier against temperatures up to -50 °C. At the time, clothing was a matter of survival. Filson had the solution: best handcrafted, tough protective wear, comfortable, functional outdoor clothing. “If a man is going North, he should come to us for his outfit.” was the Filson claim in those days. Since then, Filson products made in Seattle, U.S.A., have earned a worldwide reputation for their quality and durability. Hunters, fishermen, engineers, explorers, mariners, and miners have valued the rugged quality duffle bags, tote bags, sweaters, jackets, and belts. Today, adventurers in the business world can carry their laptop in a
reliable Filson bag throughout their various quests. The attention to detail is apparent everywhere: “Cover”, “Shelter” and “Tin” cloths are made of extremely dense woven cotton, soaked in a special, paraffin-based wax. The leather used by Filson is cut from the strongest parts of the cow skin, and tanned vegetal. Only 100 percent Virgin wool is used, for the fibres come straight from the sheep and have ideal isolating and water absorbing qualities. Filson bags are the toughest luggage you’ll ever own: Filson claim to have once even lifted a 230 pounds heavy 1968, 1,500 c,c, Single Port Volks‑ wagen engine in one of their Extra Large Duffle bags, six feet in the air. Both bag and engine survived the experiment. These unique, all-natural products are truly made for a lifetime.
CAPSULE SPORTSWEAR ----------------
Fred Perry ---------------
Fred Perry was formed in 1952 by the British tennis legend and table tennis champion of the same name. The iconic Laurel Wreath was introduced and still stands as a symbol of excellence, paying homage to the man who rose from humble beginnings to conquer Wimbledon three times. Building on a unique history based on both sports and streetwear, Fred Perry has influenced and introduced some of the most iconic styles of the last century, which continue to be relevant
today. For S/S 13, Fred Perry has created a collection of contemporary interpre‑ tations of some of its most iconic, sports inspired pieces. The Capsule Sportswear collection combines a sharp, clean silhouette with traditional performance fabrics accen‑ ted by bold pops of colour taken from early Fred Perry sportswear catalo‑ gues. Key details include intricate laser cut pockets and rubberised button fas‑ tenings, adding a modernist edge to classic Fred Perry styling.
INIMITABLE STYLE, UNCOMPROMISING QUALITY ----------------
The Frye Company, founded in 1863 by John A Frye in Marlborough, Mass, is the oldest continuously operating shoe company in the USA. When homesteading sparked adventurous New England families to head west in the mid and last 1800s, many of those pioneers wore Frye boots along the journey. In time, John Frye’s family would grow and, along with it, The Frye Company would expand. Each generation of Frye men dedicated them selves to the art and craft of shoemaking, creating new patterns, discovering new materials, and even inventing shoemaking machinery. Their fervor for the process of crafting footwear as durable as it is beautiful has been the Frye company’s benchmark, ever since. And this dedication has
helped them craft footwear with a long and illustrious history. By mail order, the company supplied thousands of brave soldiers and pilots with Frye Wellingtons, known as Jet boots. Their boots traveled the world on the feet of American servicemen, from Normandy to Okinawa – even General Patton wore a pair. This is the Frye his‑ tory and heritage, told in every stitch of every shoe they’ve made for nearly 150 years: across cultural shifts and changes in fashion, for generation upon generation. Now, Frye boots are accessorized and envied on city streets, worked and roughed up on country roads, and chosen above all others for their inimitable style and uncompromising quality.
G-Star RAW presents: The RAW Selection ----------------
RAW Selection by G-Star RAW ---------------
G-Star is fascinated by industrial design and timeless classics. The RAW Selection consists of no compromise collections and crossover projects that represent the G-Star design aesthetic: RAW Essentials, the Red Listing program, G-Star RAW by Marc Newson, and the latest crossover project Prouvé RAW. RAW Essentials is the ultimate proof of G-Star’s denim craftsmanship. Au‑ thentic and vintage influences are combined with modern techniques and design to create a collection for the true
denim purist. In the G-Star RAW by Marc Newson collection, G-Star’s brand denim DNA is fused with the unique design aesthetic and the sense of humor of this renowned designer. The most recent RAW Crossover project is a re-imagination of Jean Prouvé’s classic modernist furniture in close collaboration with Vitra. Innovation, industrial design, and timeless classics form the basis for G-Star products; the RAW Selection represents the pinnacle of the G-Star collections.
ARTFULLY MANUFACTURED IN TUSCANY ----------------
Founded in Tuscany in 1973, the knitting factory G.R.P. has developed working methods that combine traditional manufacturing with a modern sense for classics. The design and production of the G.R.P. knitwear take place in Carmignano in the Tuscan hills of the Medici, a location steeped in history, with a long tradition in the areas of art, agriculture and food production. The highly qualified G.R.P specialists work with the same passion that a craftsman feels for any of his products, thereby proving his love for his native region. In its knitting factory in the Tuscan Carmignano hills, G.R.P. produces high quality products for its international customers. For the G.R.P. knitwear, the world’s best yarns are chosen: Australian Super-Geelong wool, merino and lamb wool, American and Peruvian Pima cotton or linen. The precise work and ambition in stylistic decisions is
also apparent in details such as buttons with four drill holes from four different kinds of wood, which are hand-sewn with a special technique, the “Florence Lily”. In this Italian region, where the best agricultural products are produced and processed - the so-called slow food -, the traditional vocation to work with selected raw materials by hand, and throughout generations, is part of the G.R.P. company culture. The love for a naturalness that satisfies the body, and for a holiness that enlightens the spirit, is the daily inspiration for the work of G.R.P., in a magic atmosphere that has also inspired the painter Pontormo for his painting “La Visitazione” (1528), which was preserved in the local church of San Michele. For these reasons, the G.R.P. tags are not labelled “100 % Made in Italy”, but… artfully manufactured in Tuscany.
AMERICAN ROOTS ----------------
Gant Rugger ---------------
Gant Rugger was named for the first time in 1973, and is based on the unique story of the legendary American sportswear brand GANT. It was the son of Bernard Gant who took the Rugby shirt from the field at the end of the 70ies and established it as part of the mens wardrobe; an idea that was revolutionary and successful, and from which derived the brand RUGGER BY GANT: a collection designed for a new easy going and vivacious generation of Americans who wanted to be less academic and established. But as the years went by, RUGGER BY GANT disappeared from the scene until now: After years of resting in the archives, it is now time to revive the younger and more progressive Sportswear brand GANT RUGGER from the 70ies, and lead it back to its old strength. GANT RUGGER draws
back on a rich archive with uncountable historic patterns, fabrics, colours and images, and today reinterprets the brand in a contemporary and modern way, without losing sight of its original Ivy League roots. The overall new focus lies on reviving the old logos and signets such as the „G“: a symbol that had embellished the sportive and innovative Bernard Gant shirts before 1949. This is how this „G“ started the real history of the brand: a precious symbol which now embellishes the GANT RUGGER designs. Today, GANT RUGGER represents a contemporary and modern interpretation of American Sportswear, whose DNA is based on the retro influences of the 60ies and 70ies, on authentic de‑ signs, colours and fabrics from old archives. A total look with American roots.
DRAWN TO THE EDGE ----------------
Gilded Age --------------Gilded Age draws inspiration from a uniquely American narrative as it introduces its Spring Summer 2013 collection: Last season’s theme was SPEED, the exhilaration of the chase, youthful angst barreling ever forward, desperately escaping the grip of conformity. This season, Gilded Age goes beyond speed and delves into a more primordial territory of the human psyche, The Edge. Mankind has ever sought to go beyond the limits of his environment, from the humble hunter to the urban escapist, man is always drawn to the edge. The collection’s mood is worn yet unbroken, mature yet youthful, and cease‑ lessly bold and rebellious. Spring /Summer colours such as terracotta, eucalyptus and a range of blues, greens, deep indigos, and warm hues. In denim, Gilded Age introduces a variety of over dyed selvage denims in saturated colours, as well as classic indigo looks. Key items are the hand tooled and word
leather tops in rich colours such as apricot, deep indigo, and slate blue. The top selling “Gotham” straight leg jean will also be hand done in a rare long slub, soft Japanese red selvage denim. In addition to that, Gilded Age uses soft stretch twills, cords, satins, textured knits, plated fleece, and soft interlock jerseys. Novelty stitch hoodies and sporty henleys, polos, and crews complete the assortment. Founded by Stefan Miljanic, principal designer and creative director of the brand, Gilded Age is a socially conscious, casual luxury brand deeply committed to organic, handcrafted, and artisanal approaches to fabric and product development. The New York based brand is inspired by the early industrial revolution, textile production techniques and craftsmanship of old New York and the Northeast from the turn of the 20th century, predating the era of mass production.
SMART W OMENSWEAR ----------------
Gitta Plotnicki --------------With her high-quality garments, Gitta Plotnicki, Made in Germany revives long-gone virtues – produced with traditional manufacturing techniques, made for modern women: Her heart beats for the truly precious things in life. The designer’s passion for handpicked, high-quality materials and sophisticated processing technology made in Germany is present right down to the tag. As a fan of the “rugged work wear and vintage look” in men’s fashion with its plain, almost gritty materials and fine sense of detail, she missed her preferred style in the women’s department, and thus created a female pendant, combining slightly varied international classic women’s patterns of the 1920s - 40s with the established authentic rugged look. The collection contains quality pieces that do not need to boast about their branding or classiness, suited for a normal working day as well as an evening out. Gitta gathers her selected materials
from all over the world; from Japan to the ancient silk manufactures in Lyon, France. The small family businesses’ knowledge of traditional methods of production, such as the use of old “red salvage” looms, is key. She also revives long-forgotten processes, like the traditional blueprint technique she uses for her silk scarves: They are printed by one of the few master craftsmen left who knows how this intricate procedure works. The colours are mainly red, white, and indigo for her dresses, skirts, blouses, vests and blazers, completed by belts, anklets, bags and knitted garments made by a traditional Berlin manufactory. She has also designed and produced hand-painted leather goods in cooperation with “Dukes” and shirts made by authentic vintage looms in cooperation with “Merz b. Schwanen”. Gitta Plotnicki, made in Germany: an elaborate selection of high quality products.
ICONIC STATUS ----------------
In 1951, Freda and Harold Morris, specialised in selling cotton, leather, gloves and overalls, were approached by the British Ministry of Defence to help dispose of their surplus supplies of World War II duffle coats. It was then that Harold Morris conceived the name Gloverall: a brand was born. Today, Gloverall has become one of the most respected and loved British brands, recognised worldwide as producers of not just the Original Duffle Coat but modern relevant British coats too. The Gloverall brand has gained truly iconic status as a design classic. Initiated by exploring their 1940‘s and 1950‘s archive material, the Gloverall SS13 collection is inspired by post war workwear, the founding period for
Gloverall. Aiming to take full advantage of British Mills, the collection is fabricated from Abraham Moon, British Millerain and Brisbane Moss. Traditionally, a coat brand this season sees an expanded collection to provide a full wardrobe, adding both shirts and trousers that demonstrate the Gloverall identity. There is a first introduction of a niche four-piece‚ Made in London‘ sub collection for both Mens and Womanswear. Additionally, S/S13 sees the first bag collaboration, incorporating Gloverall designs with Chapmans crafted workmanship. Gloverall signature quality touches in finishing and detail add individuality to these garments with the coats that are traditionally still Made in England.
BOLD HAT MAKING ----------------
Goorin Bros. --------------This is the story of Goorin Brothers, the bold hat makers. It all started in 1895 with Cassel Goorin, who sold his first hat off the back of a horse cart in Pittsburg, Pennsylvania. These hats embodied individuality, integrity, and grand craftsmanship, the hallmarks of Cassel‘s vision. Passion and dedication in the hands of an original thinker formed the Goorin tradition that redefined the art of hat making. Old-world craft has evolved into a timeless trade and this devotion has made Goorin Brothers the bold hat making company that it is today. These dynamic hats have allowed individuals, one by one, to tell their stories without ever having to say a word. Cassel began each of his distinctive hats on custom wooden hat-blocks, each block having its own soul, its own personality. Cassel considered these blocks and patterns his secret recipes and he
kept them safely guarded from his competitors‘ constant gaze. He measured his clients‘ heads, sized up their features, looked deeply into their interests and personalities and crafted a custom hat to fit their character. Each hat was truly inspired by the individual. Adding the right feather, sewing the right lining, and often changing the block or pattern entirely, he set out to make each hat one of a kind. Cassel rejected the impersonal methods of mass production, preferring instead to hand deliver each of his hats, often making a custom hatbox to complete the package. Today, Cassel Goorin‘s great-grandson takes the lead of the company with an eye to the future and a strong foundation in his heritage. By bringing back Cassel‘s secret recipes and adding modern twists, Goorin Brothers hats once again stands out as a company representing authenticity and creativity.
STYLISH BUT NEVER TRENDY ----------------
Hartford --------------NYC, 1979: Yves Chareton founded Hartford collection, following his vision to recreate 40’s and 50’s vintage shirts he had found at Parisian Porte de Clignancourt flea markets in the late 60’s ubiquitous button-downs in faded plaids or bright oxford, westerns in raw denim and work shirts in chambray. Thanks to a manufacturer who believed in his vision, Yves was able to launch a casual and cool line of vintageinspired shirts. Hartford was an instant success, and fans such as Bruce Springsteen ordered dozens of shirts to wear in concert. Hartford became synonymous with quality fabrics, rich colours, and above all, with authenticity. Yves had an eye for refined prints, and for mixing fabrics in perfect harmony. Within a few years, the Hartford collection became a complete menswear line, inspired by classics: Military coats cut from Savile Row tailors, fatigue pants borrowed from the US Navy, an old school shirt
in faded oxford stripe, a Fair Isle sweater freshly recreated - all examples of classic styles that Hartford reinvented to become contemporary, stylish but never trendy. In 2000, Yves launched a vintage-inspired beachwear collection, a womens line, and a children’s collection. Hartford‘s S/S 2013 collection is inspired by three themes: fresh “urban preppy”: light jackets made in shirts fabrics (gingham, stripes, etc) that can be worn with brightly colored chinos and shorts. The second theme is “urban military”: parka hoodies, pea coats and ultra-light overshirts that can be mixed with cargo or multi-pockets shorts made in a herringbone cotton. Thirdly, “vintage surf”, centering around the Hartford swim short, a parka in nylon swim fabrics, and tees, sweatshirts and shorts in pastel colors — all create a late 60’s ‘beach boys’ ambiance. This also includes the return of Hawaiian prints on shirts and swimwear.
OLD SCHOOL MEETS Y OUNG BLOOD ----------------
HEMLEY was born in times of the German â€œWirtschaftswunderâ€? and the cold war. The tie company was established in 1965 by the two young guys Hermann and Wolfgang. With skill and engagement, these two succeeded in developing the company over five decades through several economic ups and downs. Throughout the years the work shop has been located in the heart of Krefeld, city of silk and velvet at the shores of the river Rhine. The business is currently run in the second generation by Barbara and Jan, children of Wolfgang. For the Spring/
Summer 2013, HEMLEY has gone back to its roots by using blended materials in cotton, wool and silk. These fabrics are manufactured into historic shapes of narrow bow-ties, straight edged knit-ties and flamboyant scarves. Traditional checks, stripes and other classic designs are re-interpreted and coloured in a unique way, always aiming to create garments for everyday use, long lasting, with timeless beauty. HEMLEY would like to thank all the ones who joined the journey so far and invites everybody kindly to continue in writing history!
FOOTWEAR FOR THE MODERN WORLD ----------------
From the creation of the first ski boots at the end of the 1940s to HESCHUNGâ€™s consecration, when it became the official supplier to the French skiing team at the Grenoble Winter Olympics in 1968 (8 gold medals), an intimate relationship with the mountains has grown, which far exceeds the realm of sports alone and shows a true love of nature. The consumer is cultivated, perceiving the consistency and sincerity of a policy based on the unique expertise that the brand has inherited from its very beginnings: genuine reverse welt and Goodyear stitching. These techniques ensure that the Heschung footwear is perfectly watertight and extremely hard-wearing, something it would be inappropriate to sacrifice
to the mere fads of fashion. In phase with the legitimate aspirations of its contemporaries, HESCHUNG positions itself as a purveyor of footwear that expresses a sensibility for the sober, deluxe and elegant product. To reconcile the aesthetics of former times and current preoccupations, the brand relies on its passion for noble materials, architecture, design and fashion. Very selectively, HESCHUNG picks up on and filters current trends in order to interpret them according to the brandâ€™s values of authenticity. HESCHUNG footwear comes into being through this subtle compromise, which allies tradition and modernity, whilst demonstrating true respect for the environment. In this, it is very much footwear for the modern world.
FOR THE MODERN HOBO ----------------
Hobo Shoes --------------It was on a holiday trip in the year 1982 that Ferdinand von Haeseler came across a small family run boots factory in Portugal: five brothers, a father and a young English speaking office professional were ready to start the Hobo Shoes adventure with a range of Goodyear welted shoes: Hobo Boots and Shoes was established. Inspiration for the name was a romantic view on the way of life of the American wandering workers “Hoe-boys” = “Hobos” at the beginning of the last century. Travelling on slow-moving cargo trains, the Hobos had to endure extremely hard living conditions in a life that demanded a strong will and great courage, but that also meant a great deal of independence. Some years later, another small family run shoe factory joined this Hobo project and finally became direct partner of Malefiz Shoes & Boots Großhandels GmbH which was founded
to organize the Hobo Shoes distribution, and adopted the old tradition of American Hobos and based on this philosophy created the Hobo Trademark, producing high quality handmade boots and shoes for the modern Hobo. Today, you still find Fernando, Filipe, Lino and Ferdinand, from the very beginning of Hobo Shoes in this story. Next to them there is a fantastic crew of co-workers, family, friends and fans, all dedicated and in love with Hobo Shoes. Original shoes from passed times have seen a revival in styles like Charly Shoes, the Saddleshoe Collection and the Cabaret Collection: updated to suit modern demands, with the very special Hobo character. To this day, Hobo Shoes are produced in small traditional manufacturing companies in Portugal. Hobo Boots and Shoes - for the long dusty roads of life.
REINVENTING VINTA GE ----------------
HTC - Hollywood Trading Company ---------------
Hollywood Trading Company (HTC) was born in the 1990‘s in Los Angeles, California, out of an obsession for vintage American leather accessories. A combination of history and reclamation led to reinterpreting their exceptional historical workmanship with leather belts, which soon captured the attention of fans and retailers with its unique vision of iconic and timeless fashion accessories. This is the strongest feature that makes HTC one of the most important points of reference for those passionate for vintage around the
world. Design is focused on a meticulous importance in the details and a thorough research of vintage interpretation. Made in the USA and Italy, HTC brings hand craftsmanship back into the forefront as each belt is created and finished by hand. The beautiful HTC products can be found in exclusive, specialty boutiques around the world such as Barney‘s New York, Neiman Marcus, Fred Segal Los Angles, L‘Eclaireur, Harvey Nichols London, Excelsior Milan, Restir Tokyo and I.T. in Hong Kong.
BEA UTIFUL MODERN PIECES ----------------
Jack Flynn ---------------
Jack Flynn is an Amsterdam based outerwear company focusing on menâ€™s tailoring and outerwear with a casual twist. It was conceived by a group of like-minded founders who where looking for something new, something which could combine their passion for the outdoors, tailoring and heritage influences, yet still cut the right modern style lines in a city environment. The brandâ€™s aesthetic comes from fusing together the traditional skills of a tailor and modern outdoor sportswear influences to produce a fine range of great jackets and outerwear pieces. They draw their inspiration from the world around them, whether it is the
great outdoors, city streets or looking back at heritage pieces and re-interpreting these for the modern man, they use these inspirational elements and fuse them with seasonal trends and colours, thus creating beautiful modern pieces rich in detail, to complement and not compete with the other items in a manâ€™s wardrobe. Each one of the Jack Flynn jackets starts life as a paper pattern and is cut according to traditional tailoring methods for the perfect fit. The pieces are reviewed and functionality added through the use of fabrics from European and Asian mills, trims, seaming, detailing and hand finishing all of which brings the jackets to life.
HANDCRAFTED IN LOS ANGELES ----------------
Johnson Motors, Inc. ---------------
In 1938 two entrepreneurs came together to start a Californian distribution company of the finest British and American motorcycles and motorcycle clothing, delivering them to a new wonderlust-starved American teenager. That company would be called Johnson Motors. Through racing their motorcycles in the barren deserts of Death Valley and the dry lakes of El Mirage, they pitted themselves against nature in the true American tradition of „All or nothing, death or glory“ in jeans, a t-shirt and leather jacket. Johnson Motors clothing is built on that same ethos, that same enduring spirit of those pioneers of utility clothing. Johnson Motors is a small company, in the same cottage-industry style,
untouched by corporate decision making. They simply make what they love, for the discerning wearer. Using only the finest American yarns and denim, they struggle above all else to keep age-old traditions of excellence alive in the heart of downtown Los Angeles, having truly earned the right to bear the mark „Made in USA“. Their clothes are for the individual that seeks out vintage inspired traditionalism that is true to the period, without faux washes. They make blue jeans, pure and simple, in which you will have to earn the holes and marks that will tell your story and capture your memories. Johnson Motors Jeans. Hard wearing, tough and durable... Made the way you remember them.
GOOD TO KNO W IT’S THERE ----------------
The K-Way® brand was created in Paris in 1965. On a rainy day, clothes retailer Léon-Claude Duhamel observed as people rushed by in soaking wet clothes, with uncomfortable umbrellas in their hands. And he had an insight: creating a waterproof object that could be carried all times, but which was neither an umbrella nor a raincoat. Therefore a revolutionary jacket was born: lightweight, comfortable and completely waterproof, that could be folded in a small hip bag. This product was soon launched on the market and proved to be successful from the beginning: the first year, 250,000 pieces were sold. In 1970s many partnerships between K-Way® and various ski teams
took place. In 1990 the brand was purchased by Superga and in 1993 it was transferred to So.PA.F. merchant bank. In 1999 it was acquired by Milan-based Multimoda Network. In February 2004 K-Way® was included in the BasicNet Group’s brand portfolio. K-Way® has reached such a popularity that today can be defined as one of the few very well-known and legally recognised brands that is included as an entry in the Italian dictionary. Key words describing K-way are colored, technological, functional, classic and contemporary. K-Way highlights include co- brandings with Marc Jacobs, Kristina Ti, F.lli Cerruti, Elio Fiorucci, Walt Disney, Corso Como, Limoland and many more.
MADE IN GERMANY – SINCE 1925 ----------------
Both design and technology: Modern developments will also find access to the world of LACO watches. As a company with modern management, LACO gives proof for the open-mindedness for new trends in the production of new lines, which, along with their pilot watches, had a considerable share in their development efforts. The squad watches are successful examples from recent days: addition to the proverbial LACO reliability, they have focused on extraordinary sturdiness when developing this type. In the squad watch, LACO uncompromisingly implements the extremely high demands of military forces and police. Also the pilot watches collection of LACO will be modified continuously. Currently, the pilot watch series is completed by 3 additional models, in which
high value mechanical movements like Miyota 821A (automatic), ETA 2660 (hand winding) and ETA 7750 (automatic chronograph) are used. Especially the model “Kiel” (picture on the right) makes a watch enthusiast’s heart beats faster. The elegant and at the same time sporty watch with stainless steel case, sapphire crystal and easy to read dial does offer a lot of features, combined with precise display of time. The sapphire glass on the back side of the watch allows to throw a glance on the high value Swiss Movement ETA 7750. Both in the past and in the present, LACO watches are manufactured in the German city of Pforzheim in compliance with rigorous quality requirements.
EXCEPTIONALLY WELL-CRAFTED ----------------
The conception of LASCO (Los Angeles Shoe Company) began back in 2008, in a small 1-bedroom apartment in Southern California, with a simple concept of creating an exceptionally wellcrafted shoe that was 100% sourced and manufactured in the US; resurrecting an art that has been on the decline in this country for the past 20 years, and vowing to only use the finest materials in the world. As more and more of the USA supply chain manufacturers started to close up shop around the US in the past 10 years, they felt the need to do what little they could to help keep these manufacturers in business or at least optimistic. LASCO uses Horween Genuine Leathers not only because of their rich 100+ year history, but because they take the extra care and steps to insure that every
hide that leaves their tannery carries the same commitment to quality as the day they started in 1905. LASCO does not compromise their using the finest materials or the workmanship. Like any great fitting shoe, they spend over two years developing and testing the fit of the shoe to ensure it could be worn by a variety of feet, from narrow to wide. As most shoes made today are left with a raw edge, they wanted their shoes to stand alone or at least on the same shelf as a dress shoe. This is why they fold every edge. Folded edges not only take twice as long to sew, it also takes a great deal of skill to ensure every fold is clean and crisp. Every detail of their construction has been tested in various combinations to ensure their customers can enjoy the workmanship of the old world era for years to come.
LIVING AL OHA ----------------
Lightning Bolt ---------------
Lightning Bolt was founded in Hawaii in the summer of 1971 by Gerry Lopez, world champion surfer of the Banzai-Pipeline and Jack Shipley, surfboard shaping guru and North Shore legend. Forty years later, the brand has reintroduced itself in the US and internationally with surf veteran Jonathan Paskowitz leading the effort. Lightning Bolt represents a philosophy that surfing, in its truest form, is a way of life rather than just another sport. Those behind the brand redefined surfing in the 70s as the sport and the lifestyle that surrounded it moved away from the traditions of the past. Today Lightning Bolt continues to celebrate this spirit and the passion of the individual and how surfing is one of the purest ways people can connect to nature while at the same time using
it as a canvas for self-expression. The brand opens up the countless opportunities for technological progression both in and out of the water, priding itself on manufacturing premium proâ€‘ duct for the conscious surfer that emphasizes quality, style and utility as well as supporting local manufacturing where possible. Wherever you find yourself - Living Aloha: The new season kicks off with references ranging from Hawaiiana culture to the melting pot that is Southern California beach culture. S/S 13 offers a familiar take on the classic Lightning Bolt graphics and bodies with a dose of a fresh and timeless perspective seen in their cut and sew pieces all shaped and inspired by their time in the drink. Forever holding onto a spirit of Alohaâ€Ś
THE FUTURE OF TRADITION ----------------
Ludwig Reiter ---------------
The Ludwig Reiter shoe manufactory was founded in Vienna in 1885 as a shoemaker’s workshop and is still run by the family, today in its fourth generation. Worldwide, Ludwig Reiter is one of the few remaining shoe manufactories to produce according to the traditional Goodyear welting method. The traditional welted shoes are made by hand. Today Ludwig Reiter is also wellknown for its high quality sport and ladies shoes as well as accessories, com-
bining the experience and tradition of fine craftsmanship with contemporary requirements and style, resulting in the company’s vision statement “The Future of Tradition”. With designs such as the “Trainer”, the “Bowling” or the most prized creation, the legendary “Maronibrater”, Ludwig Reiter became an international fashion pioneer that has initialized cooperations with designers such as Helmut Lang, Wolfgang Joop, Paul Smith and Werner Baldessarini.
PROGRESSIVE INDEPENDENT AND RESOL UTELY SCO TTISH ----------------
Lyle & Scott ---------------
The Scottish Borders, 1874: two men had a vision that to this day echoes throughout each garment- a singleminded sense of purpose, craftsmanship and integrity. From very humble beginnings initially making women’s knitted under garments, they soon expanded into knitwear quickly gaining a reputation for superior quality products even leading to an exclusive line of cashmere knits in collaboration with Christian Dior. The birth of the Eagle logo in the 60s saw Lyle & Scott rise to become one of golf’s most respected brands. In ‘75 they were awarded a Royal Warrant by appointment of HRH The Duke of Edinburgh who favoured their famous
lambswool sweaters- an accolade still honoured today. In 2003 the Lyle and Scott Vintage range was launched, completely revitalising the brand for a new generation. The Golden Eagle gained popularity and was worn by some of Britain’s most popular musicians and celebrities. Lyle and Scott quickly gained a reputation for making retro sportswear inspired pieces with a modern twist. The values of 1874 have never been stronger and the S/S13 collection re-establishes Lyle & Scott as progressive, independent and resolutely Scottish; their long, rich history ensures that a sense of honesty and spirit runs throughout the collection expressing their quietly confident attitude.
CONTEMPORARY COL ONIAL ----------------
Massaua is a totally original concept that renews the colonial style of the early years of the 20th Century in a contemporary way, a collaboration of Nicola Bardelle, yet creative director of the Jacob Cohёn brand, with the fashion designer Maurizio Zaupa. Foundation of the Massaua project are the passion for iconic clothing that inspires the contemporary fashion, the research and use of refined materials, combined with an element of exclusivity and “made in Italy” tailoring. The name “Massaua” derives from the Eritrean port of Massaua, an important commercial crossroads and base of cotton Zimbabwe manufacturing, the cotton which gives the name to the “Massaua cloth”, once used for colonial
uniforms. A precise mood for a selection of men’s clothing – pants, jackets, waistcoats, shirts and ties entirely handmade using superfine materials: berber wool, pure Zimbawe cotton – among the best in the world – grown using traditional and natural techniques, manufactured in Japan and dyed with vegetable indigo, and exclusive fabrics made by the wool company Bonotto through the “ slow factory”, a production that retrieves old craft techniques in vintage frames. The quality of the Massaua collection lives of manual finishing and absolutely unique details. Sartorial knowledge, purity of forms and attention to details are Massaua’s language, for real lovers of a classic contemporary.
The B avarian original ----------------
With a history of more than 300 years, Meindl produces mens and womens leatherwear collections and outdoor shoes in KirchanschĂśring, a small borough in the Bavarian province of Traunstein. The Meindl signature pieces are the traditional Bavarian short leather pants and rough jackets made of leather and lambskin, first tailored by Lukas Meindl in 1935. Elaborately manufactured and artfully embroidered, the high-quality Meindl leather pants and garments are made of the best buckskin and with perfected craftsmanship, providing the best possible wearing comfort. The Meindl style is inspired by the life in
the Alps, and Meindl products convey this characteristic lifestyle throughout the world. The unrestricted Meindl strive for best quality materials and timeless design, lasting for over three centuries now, continues to pay off: today, nearly 500 workers are producing Meindl outdoor boots and leatherwear, always respecting the Meindl tradition of craftsmanship and dedication to quality and service. Notwithstanding the traditional attitude, increasing attention is paid to environmental aspects such as the recyclability of the manufactured materials. Meindl: a true Bavarian original keepâ€‘ ing up with the times.
THE ART OF CIRCULAR KNITTING ----------------
Merz b. Schwanen ---------------
In 1836, circular knitting machines were introduced to the Swabian Alps. On these machines new cotton products could be produced which were much more comfortable than the linen underwear common at that time – German knitwear was born! With the help of a traditional knitwear manufacturer from this area, vintage aficionado Peter Plotnicki revived the ‘old way of crafting clothes’. Merz b. Schwanen, founded in 1911, is a brand with a long and proud family tradition. The descendants of Balthasar Merz allowed P. Plotnicki to use the brand name in order to carry on the family’s tradition and history. Driven by his passion for traditional fabrication processes, he and the team created a collection of garments solely made by 1920s -1950s circular knitting machines. All tops are based on authentic working man’s apparel ranging from the first decades of
the 20th century to army shirts of the sixties – some slightly modified, some copied from the original piece down to the last seam. The machines leave their individual trait on each fabric they produce, resulting in the individuality of every single garment: an irregular weaving pattern without a side seam. The new collection is a continuation of the existing garments supplemented by some new styles, fabrics and colours: New styles include an open sleeve Army T-shirt, a new button border shirt also with an open sleeve, a sweater made in a terry fabric. New colours are maroon and greenblue, and the new fabric is a heavy 2-thread cotton, outside brushed, one thread is a slub yarn which gives an irregular surface. Highlight of the collection is a special selection of Merz b. Schwanen shirts that are Indigo handdyed in a small German Indigo dyeing manufacture.
A GES WELL ----------------
The stationery products of the Midori Traveler‘s Notebook & Company series are characterized by their ‚ages well‘signature. They are built to last, and become more beautiful with use and with each scratch. Over the years, the surface of the writing tools of the Midori Brass range will oxidize to become a deep, tender color hue worthy of long appreciation. The same can be said about Midori Traveler‘s Notebook leather cover. Midori Traveler‘s Notebook states its own raison d‘etre by its simplicity, roughly cut leather cover, the elastic band and the clasp made of tin. The manner of use, the touch of the hand, all combines into a very individual and unique patina. When you look closer you may even see the owner’s character in the way the item has become. In the L.O.C.K. Fire Dept., Midori displays the
various steps of the making of the Midori Brass writing tools, plus shows a small collection of used Midori products of L.O.C.K. Fire Dept. aficionados to show the individual differences in the aging process depending on its user. Midori President Ichiro Aida: „We believe that design not only conveys something, but also elicits strong emotions and sympathies in interpersonal communication…“. Since its establishment in 1950, the Japanese Midori company manufactures goods that combine both beauty and functionality by paying special attention to aesthetics and the materials used. 5 years ago, the Midori design team developed an analogue series of products characterized by true craftsmanship, quality and authenticity that hold its own besides the hi-tech developments in this electronic age.
W ORKS OF ART ----------------
N.D.C. Made By Hand --------------It has been just over 10 years since n.d.c. made by hand was created by Enrique Corbi & Arnaud Zannier- two friends passionate about shoes. The brand name n.d.c. – nom de code/code name – reflects their conviction that the strength of the brand is the product itself, where simplicity, quality, originality and constructional know-how are king. Not interested in following the ever-changing whims of fashion, they believe in style, in class, in strong personality, in understated grace, in subtle humour, in tradition and evolution, in fusion and harmony, but above all, in individuality. In 2001, after working for over 10 years in the shoe business, they felt that it was time to break free of the corporate machine and create their own story. They had seen a gap in the market for the kind of shoes that they wanted to wear. Without restrictions to creativity or budget, they brought the
best leathers from Tuscany to the finest artisans in Europe and created shoes for people like them who are in pursuit of authenticity and understated individualism. Since then they have been developing their repertoire of unique styles with comfortable lasts, interesting constructions and finishing techniques that include top-secret concoctions of natural waxes and oils. n.d.c. is now available in over 350 of the world’s finest boutiques, including their own flagship stores in Brussels, Paris, Berlin, Lille. To Enrique and Arnaud, a good shoe is a work of art. The leather, the craftsmanship… good shoes are made by good people who are passionate about what they do despite profit. They are still independent in controlling their business and creating their product from a to z which makes sense for a brand who’s priority and ultimate objective is the product itself.
NIGEL CABOURN LOGO
THE ARMY ISN’T ALL W ORK ----------------
Nigel Cabourn ---------------
Nigel Cabourn, a true outerwear specialist, is driven by a longstanding passion for vintage clothing, fabric and details. His vintage archive of over 4,000 pieces is his inspiration: each collection has a real story, and a sense of history underpinned by the highest level of quality. Nigel Cabourn believes in making the highest quality menswear with integrity and purpose. Nigel Cabourn Manufactures only in the UK and Japan and where possible sources all raw materials from the UK and Japan. “THE ARMY
ISN’T ALL WORK” : The Nigel Cabourn Spring Summer 2013 collection is an in depth study of clothing worn during sporting activities while serving in the Army. The S/S13 collection is a culmination of cricket, athletics, soccer, rugby and gymnastics through style and fabrication. This S/S13 season Nigel Cabourn will be collaborating with Converse on a specially developed gym shoe and Merz b. Schwanen on gym style sweat shirts. The Nigel Cabourn shops in Japan are aptly named “The Army Gym”.
A UTHENTIC FURNITURE ----------------
Noodles Noodles & Noodles Corp. ---------------
Noodles Noodles & Noodles Corp. manufactures and distributes its Authentic Furniture collection since 1992. These functional and handcrafted pieces of work are made from natural raw materials such as steel & wood and are built in the tradition of the golden days of craftsmanship. The designs are inspired by classic functional industry
furniture from the 19th century. The product design is straight, solid - with character. Furniture for your business. Authentic Vintage Design furniture for product presentation and offices. Apart from their standard range of products, Noodles Noodles & Noodles Corp. also offers „Customized Solutions“.
THE N AKED TRUTH ABOUT DENIM ----------------
Nudie Jeans --------------Nudie Jeans is a Swedish brand founded in 2001. They love jeans, a passion they share with anyone who mourns a worn-out pair like the passing of a close friend. No fabric ages quite as beautifully as denim; the longer you wear your jeans, the more character and attitude they acquire. You shape them with your lifestyle, and they become like a second skin. All Nudie collections reflect the brand and the philosophy of Nudie Jeans, and the genuineness found in the areas where jeans have an authentic and true story. Rather than doing conventional trend spotting, Nudie finds inspiration in other cultural fields such as music and movies, and in the inexhaustible history of denim, and they get it from all dedicated users wearing their dry jeans until they literally fall apart. The Swedish worker culture and the melting pot of modern Scandinavian culture also meet and merge in the collections.
Their ambition as a brand is to create sustainable products that will last. Both when it comes to quality as well as a timeless design. The base and heart of Nudie Jeans is found in the dry denim and the Backbone “everyday simplicity” tops. The Backbone concept dovetails perfectly with Nudie Jeans’ dry denims in terms of simplicity and sustainability. All garments are made from Fairtrade certified organic cotton: this is everyday clothing that fits perfectly with your dry or worn jeans. The whole denim range is made in 100% organic cotton and divided into dry, worn and worn authentic, simply after the amount of treatments and time given to the denim at the laundry. In addition to the Backbone concept there’s a wider range of tops reflecting the worn denims with similar secondhand wash treatments. The collection is completed with accessories made in dry denim and vegetable tanned leather.
SWEDISH ACCESSORIES ----------------
P. A. P Made in Sweden ---------------
P.A.P (Products And Philosophy) is a leather goods company that features handmade products exclusively made in Sweden. They believe that timeless design is always modern and that true beauty gets better with age. However, all P.A.P products are made to facilitate, complement and improve contemporary lifestyles. The P.A.P bags and covers are tailored to protect and carry the latest personal technology, lending a sense of style and character to your phones and computers at the same time as you shield them from wear and tear. All P.A.P accessories are made
with top quality Swedish and Italian leather with solid brass details. Each item has been meticulously crafted by skilled artisans in one of their small factories in the South East region of Småland. The P.A.P products are made with longevity in mind, and are made to be passed on from generation to generation. P.A.P grew last year and added a new material into the collection. This time, it is felt which is made in Halmstad from partly wool and recycled PET-bottles. These products are made in the P.A.P factory in Majorna, Göteborg, Sweden.
PUT A SPRING IN ONE‘S STEP ----------------
The Spring Summer 2013 Pantherella collection celebrates the hotter temperatures with a move away from the heaviness of winter yarns and the introduction of lightweight luxurious yarns and weaves in complimentary colour palettes - alongside key trends for the season making the S/S 13 collection unmissable for the highly regarded gentleman. Traditional iconic designs meet exhilarating trends for S/S 13the acclaimed styling of classic quintessential collections such as The Icon and The Vintage sees the evolution of both with Spring Summer qualities. The Icons Regent, Marylebone and Lambeth and Vintage‘s Burlington, Westminster and Mayfair integrate the influences of ‚naturals and chalks‘ delicately into the designs. Business Classics in Wool and Cotton launches the S/S 13 season with strong authoritative designs. The new ‘Cotton Leisure' collection takes guid-
ance from the inspirational ‚Homespun‘ trend which champions the raw colours of nature such as rural browns, clean whites and verdant greens with organic ethical methods incorporated into designs, textures and finishes shown in the Ikat and Windham. Tribal Fusion is a big S/S 13 trend, designed in the Kato, Mohawk and Wasco taking the traditional origins of the African tribal movement and deconstructing the colours and simple patterns into the key fashion collection for the season. The Simply Classic trend showcases the wonderful summery colours such as Blue Zone, Bright Sunny Yellows, Whites and classic Red combined with simple patterns in the much-admired Seas Island Collection such as the Bayham, Portland and Wigmore: ideal for the Pantherella man who is looking to unwind in the sunshine after a hard day in the office.
CYCLING LIFESTYLE ----------------
PEdALED makes clothes to enjoy on the bicycle. Founded by Japanese fashion designer Hideto Suzuki in 2007, PEdALED focuses on cycling lifestyle. Hideto Suzuki left his job after 20 years to escape from an industry he described as “following too much the fast-changing tastes where clothes are manufactured like any other industrial commodity”. His ideals first brought him to the art of building traditional log houses, and in the end he built ten of these by himself. Finally, he found his way back to clothing design, but this time with an eye to create comfortable urban garments with functions for cycling,
unique style and premium quality. The poetic expression “Pedalling to dive into the earth” inspired the acronym “PEdALED”. Natural fabrics such as hemp, linen and organic cotton are the basics of PEdALED clothing, sometimes recycling old clothes and other fabrics. Synthetic materials are kept to a minimum. PEdALED garments are tailored for comfort both on and off the bike. This new Spring Summer collection explores furthermore the designer’s aim between sustainability and desire to create new things, like making alternative use of military textiles so that they are “Born Again”, giving them new positive values.
FOR LIFE IN THE OPEN ----------------
Penfield was established in Massachusetts in 1975 and has built a reputation for making the highest quality downfilled jackets, fleece and outerwear. Penfield garments are designed to stand up to the demands of the New England climate, yet are equally at home sheltering you anywhere the wind blows or rain falls! These garments are made by people who know and love the outdoors, and
Penfield is always committed to bringing you the best of fashion, function, practicality and durability in every design they manufacture. Penfield works constantly to improve and develop new fabric and garment innovations, keeping you warm and comfortable in the most varied and extreme conditions. Whatever the situation calls for, there is a perfect Penfield for every need.
TRUE STYLE ----------------
Pike Brothers ---------------
Detached from the conventional, Pike Brothers are creating their garments to the sturdy and true style without lo‑ sing focus for function. At Pike Brothers, they know from their own activities about the value of functional and quality garments. In order to meet their high quality expectations, Pike Brothers are working with small traditional orientated weavers and tailoring shops in Europe.
However, it is not only the finished product which is important to them, but also how a product is made. Highlight for this season is the new Pike Brothers “Elephant Skin” series. A traditional German Made work wear fabric which is as sturdy and durable as the name implies and is exclusively made for Pike Brothers. The first pieces, namely pants and vests, will be presented in the L.O.C.K.
K RO N E
Valverde classics ----------------
Valverde del Camino in Andalusia, Spain has been an old silver mining district for centuries already, its name derived from its green fields and its proximity to the „Silver Street“. Since the 19th century, the “banquilleros” of Valverde traditionally produce robust, resistant boots and shoes for hard work in the fields, the mountains or in the silver mine. In 1989, the company Valverdeña del Calzado S.L. created the Primeboots brand in Valverde. The Primeboots are still hand-crafted in the traditional Valverde style in two stages:
first, the shaft, insole and leather welt are stitched together by the Goodyear seam. The second step in the production: welt and outsole are stitched together using the welt seam. This production process unites breathability and adaptation in a perfect fit. Mens and womens Primeboots come in BikerUrban, Engineer, Western, Ranch Work, and Mountain-Adventure lines. They all share the high-quality hand made manufacturing and the classic, timeless look that is typical for Primeboots.
BRUISED BUT NEVER BROKEN ----------------
Prps Japan ---------------
Prps, short for ‘Purpose’, was created in 2003 by Founder and Creative Director, Donwan Harrell, with the philosophy that authenticity is the first priority. Each item in the collection is conceived with a specific purpose and function in mind. The distressing and ageing process and signs of a well-used jean simply validates the richness and quality of that particular garment. ‘Breaking in’ a jean does not represent deterioration, but the contrary – it is what we strive to attain. It is the visual result we jean enthusiasts so admire –
a jean which looks ‘bruised but never broken’. Prps uses African cotton combined with expert Japanese construction to create what we believe to be the finest product available. In 2011, Prps launched ‘Noir’, an exclusive collection of Japanese, often selvedge, denim washed with varying degrees of black dye and resin. This Noir technique is used to create a darker, more contemporary aesthetic and is available in 5 shades, from overdyed pure black to the faintest hint of black worked into a vintage blue jean selvedge jean.
TREAT EM ROUGH ----------------
Prps Goods & Co ---------------
Prps Goods & Co. is designed and crafted with unparalleled quality. While each garment is inspired by authentic vintage Americana, each collection will offer a complete brand experience that speaks to the modern man’s desire for functional, purposeful and innovative clothing. Accessible and affordable, Goods & Co. captures the essence of Prps without sacrificing the ethos of the brand. In keeping with the company’s history, each seasonal offering will be built
around a strong foundation of denim and paired with meticulously assembled separates making Prps Goods & Co. one of the most sought after brands in the market. Constructed from exquisite Japanese pieced goods and finished with elaborate detailing, as all Prps garments are, Goods & Co. remains true to the brand’s legacy. The collection encompasses an early American outdoor lifestyle and is an aesthetic reflection of the personality behind the brand.
A ustralian boots since 1932 ----------------
R.M. Williams ---------------
Born in 1908 on a farm in South Australia, Reginald Murray Williams crossed the Australian central western deserts while working as a camel boy for a missionary. During their trips, he learned valuable bush lore and survival skills from the aboriginal people and stockman skills from the stockmen of the desert fringe cattle stations. But it was meeting an itinerant saddler named Dollar Mick, who taught him the skills in leather working and crafting, that marked the true beginning of young R.M. Williams’ life’s work. He set up his first small shoe factory in 1932, and over the following decades, the company grew rapidly, diversifying, apart from boots, into bush saddlery, equipment, moleskins, jeans and bush shirts: R.M. Williams became the bush
outfitter, supplying everything essential to Australian life. The first R.M. Williams stores opened in 1978. Today, the oil-impregnated riding, work and elastic boots are the backbone of the R.M. Williams business. For theirboots, only the best leathers are used, such as cowhide, “willow” (chrome tanned oxhide), yearling, and suede leather, just to name a few. Undergoing 80 handheld processes, each R.M. Williams boot is comfortable, supple, and easily moulds to the foot. These high-quality, strong and durable boots feature welt soles with 21 defined features, and vegetable-tanned leather insoles. The uppers of the R.M. Williams boots are made from only one piece of leather, thereby producing the typical clean and classic lines.
FINE LEATHER GOODS ----------------
Everyone who has ever owned a fine leather belt, a leather bag, wallet or purse of high quality, knows that it is a living thing. That it has a soul of its own, that its characteristics and personality develops with age. When patina is revealed. Every scraped and worn belt has a history. Every scuffed and torn bag has a special character. Every faded surface holds a soul. When the signs of everyday wear and tear slowly begin
to show, the stories of the user are inherited in the item. Their stories are forever connected. RE: is all about the passion of leather as a material and the fascination of the specific appeals shown by every individually used leather product. RE: is dedicated to produce fine leather goods of the highest quality, charged with their very own spirit. This is why every RE: is product unique, and will be personalized by its owner.
Made in the USA since 19 05 ----------------
Red Wing Shoes ---------------
For more then a century Red Wing Shoes has built though, comfortable footwear for hard-working people. In 1905, Charles Beckman, a Red Wing, Minnesota merchant, saw firsthand the need for durable and comfortable boots, and he founded the Red Wing Shoe Company. Word of the quality spread quickly and the company prospered. Red Wing Heritage boots are made in the USA. Today, a third generation of employees, located just down the road from the original factory, continues the commitment to quality by using the same craftsmanship and attention to detail which gave the company so much success. Keeping up with their commit-
ment to having their shoes made in the USA using traditional techniques, Red Wing Shoe Company crafts the Genuine Handsewn collection in Maine â€“ the traditional home of moccasin style shoes. Skilled shoemakers fit the leather to the last and hand stitch the pieces together to form the moccasin-shaped upper. Techniques that have been passed from hand to hand, from generation to generation. This style of shoemaking is one of the oldest and most traditional methods of constructing shoes. Each stitch reflects the quality that generations of customers have come to expect from the Red Wing Shoe Company.
THE ITALIAN 00 7 ----------------
Robinson Les Bains ---------------
Founded in 2007 by Christophe Verot, Robinson Les Bains is specialized in beachwear, mixing timeless elegance and fashion. Robinson Les Bains offers a complete line of swimwear, from minibriefs to long board shorts. For Spring/Summer 13, the Robinson man avoids the busy part of Italy and choses the refinement and discretion of the small Italian port city of Laveno on the Lake Maggiore. This collection draws inspiration from Laveno’s brick red colours and yellow painted villas. Grey and turquoise are reminiscences of the changing tone of the lake reflected by the light. As each season, Robinson Les Bains keeps the
bright retro style which made it successful – 70s graphics, removable elastic belts, and watercolour prints. But never before have cut and pattern been in such harmony – a visualisation of the special Lake Maggiore atmosphere. However, the 007 inside each man could never do without the smart British style, therefore checks and stripes are continuously being reinvented in order to rediscover this fashionable preppy charm. To add more elegance to it, Robinson Les Bains improves its part of sweat shirts, tank tops, beach bags and light pants to offer a collection that will dress your summer– Italian 007 style.
MORE THAN 60 YEARS OF DENIM ----------------
Roy Roger‘s Rugged ---------------
“Old tailor Roy Rogers started his business in 1863, travelling the new frontier territories of America, making made-to-measure clothes from rough denim cloth, without turning down repair or alteration jobs. A long ride, covering over a century: the history of Roy Roger’s Jeans spans entire generations. From the blue jackets and trousers of the American Civil War, to the Beat Generation, to the first man on the moon, Roy Roger’s can boast having dressed miners and presidents, revolutionaries and astronauts”. The history continues through Manifatture 7 Bell S.p.A., the Tuscan manufacturer
who maintained Roy Roger’s originality and preserved a high quality in raw materials, exclusively American, Japanese and European denims, with a constant research on special washings, on different lines for woman and man strictly hand-made in Italy. RUGGED is the vintage collection of Roy Roger’s inspired by the American world of the 40-50’s and by the vintage clothing of the private historical archive ranging from the end of the 19th century to the present day. The new collection is inspired by the American look of the 50’s while giving it a modern twist, thereby lightening the taste of the past with navy references.
NÉ DE LA MER ----------------
Saint James ---------------
Around 1850, Saint-James, a commune in the French Lower Normandy located 20 km from Mont Saint-Michel, experienced a real industrial adventure: the Legallais family started to spin and dye locally produced wool. Mr Legallais, who was also the Mayor of Saint James then transformed a workshop into a real industry. When Mr Julien BONTE took over the company in 1950, the traditional activity was given up to concentrate on the manufacture of cardigans and sweaters, including the famous «Real Breton Fisherman’s Sweaters» knitted in pure wool. With such thick and tight knitwear, they were considered almost waterproof... Knitted very close to the body, this sweater becomes «the seafarers’ second skin». Saint James became famous for this „genuine nautical Breton sweater», now worn by sailors,
yachtsmen, tourists and the fashionconscious alike. Today, the Saint James «seashore lines» in either pure wool, or pure cotton appeal to a greater and more diversified customer base. The mens, ladies and childrens collections consist of a range of classic and fashion knitwear, combined with a selection of Tshirts, in both plain and striped styles. In addition to that, Saint James offers co-ordinated blouses, casual shirts, slacks, jeans, jackets and skirts. The Saint James range also includes knitted hats and scarves, as well as rainwear and duffle coats, with a very strong nautical theme prevailing. These days, the Saint James company is acknowledged as a leading French manufacturer of quality garments: a model for authenticity and French tradition.
Photo © NickClements
SOPHISTICATED TASTE ----------------
Salvatore Piccolo ---------------
The Spring/Summer 2013 collection is very incisive for the company, because Salvatore Piccolo proposes his first jacket line. Also for this season, Salvatore realizes a wide collection divided into several smaller sections that differ in their type of product : 1) SPECIAL INDIGO, which includes different Japanese denim fabrics and some vintage fabrics, dyed in natural indigo; 2) VINTAGE LINEN, a group of linen vintage shirts in exclusive fabrics realized in different models such as the
polo model or the tom model; RETROâ€™ LINE, which includes a selection of fabrics and details with a strongly retro style; and SPECIAL WHITE, a strong part of all Salvatore Piccolo collections. Furthermore, this season Salvatore pays more attention to the selection of exclusive fabrics with a classic and sophisticated taste. Like always, there will be a wide range of scarves and ties of different types of texture, in the true Salvatore Piccoloâ€™s style.
redefined tradition ----------------
Schiesser Revival ---------------
The unique and exclusive Schiesser Revival collection is an eloquent testimony to Schiesser’s long and rich tradition. Indeed, Schiesser Revival is the epitome of quality and craftsmanship, blended with natural elegance, eternal beauty and contemporary aesthetics. Schiesser’s inspired fashions redefine “tradition”, proving that firmly established values and quality have their place in the 21st century. Schiesser Revival – more than a fleeting impression. The Spring/Summer 2013 collection conveys a truly unique fashion statement in combining traditional values, quality and pioneering modernism. The women’s and men’s collections embrace zeitgeist and smartness in both the
styles and high-trend colours selected for this exquisite range. The new spring/summer product line is complemented by stylish loungewear and various high-fashion outerwear styles featuring exclusive piece-dyed or garment-washed jersey fabrics in a superb colour range. Underwear, shirts, cardigans and sophisticated nightwear are the must-haves of the women’s collection. Among the highlights in the men’s collection are cardigans, Henley shirts, hoodie jackets and exquisite pyjamas. The Schiesser Revival collection has once again clearly succeeded in transposing the charisma and purism associated with the Schiesser name.
ICONIC NEW ENGLAND STYLE ----------------
Sebago --------------In 1946, in the small state of Maine, three New England entrepreneurs joined forces to create Sebago®. Those entrepreneurial creators, Daniel J. Wellehan, Sr., William Beaudoin, and Joesph Cordeau realized that each of their skills were different, yet complemented the next, as they all shared the same passion for quality and craftsmanship. With their collective philosophy they wanted to innovate, design and create shoes that reflect the spirit of New England. The original, handsewn Sebago Docksides® boat shoe and Classic beef roll penny loafer haven’t changed since they were first crafted decades ago. Sebago is a celebration of everything New England – where life in, on or around the water is a geographical way of life, and where the people are nautical in their traditions but deliver a future of performance and ingenuity.In honor of its New England heritage, Sebago is continuing to champion their handsewn craftsman-
ship by returning to where it all began in Maine. Debuting this Autumn/Winter 2012, Sebago announces the release of their most exclusive capsule collection, Handsewn in Maine, U.S.A.. This premium collection brings together an unparalleled blend of quality — the finest American Horween® leathers and the homegrown craftsmanship of Maine. Sebago has invested decades of skill and knowledge to produce updated patterns for this exceptional collection. Every pair of the Handsewn in Maine, U.S.A. is handcrafted with the expertise that has helped make Sebago iconic. The collection includes two elegant patterns: Westbrook Classic beef roll penny loafer and the Westbrook Kilt Tassel. This exquisite collection is not only a celebration of the most iconic Sebago silhouette; the Penny Loafer, it’s about the Sebago heritage of handsewn craftsmanship, premium authenticity and sophisticated traditional New England values.
EXPERTLY CRAFTED ----------------
Founded in 1962, SOREL brings the spirit and heritage of expertly crafted boots to the modern world of fashion where they inspire a new generation of doers, creators, and innovators. Summer Boot Collection: In S/S 2013, SOREL has transformed its winter boots into more wearable and lightweight footwear for spring/summer. The Summer Boot collection is a natural evolution for the brand and will embrace the continuation of the boot season. Styles are playful, relaxed, real, natural, charismatic and soft, with fashion highlights such as full-grain perforated leather or canvas uppers. The Lake Collection: This collection features provocative, unpredictable,
seductive and elegant ‘sandal boots’. These styles are designed with premium and sophisticated materials and feminine details such as wedge heels or peep toes combined with boot-inspired upper looks. The Outing Collection: A revival of the Kaufmann 1912 ‘Outing Collection’ these styles capture the carefree spirit of bygone summers. This footwear is inspired by the plimsole (or plimsoll), originally developed in the early 1800s as beachwear and often referred to as the ‘sand shoe’. Fun, lightweight sneakers feature modern designs with vintage inspiration, sun bleached colours and lightweight materials.
STETSON SAILING COLLECTION ----------------
In 1865, John B. Stetson fashioned the hat that would become the symbol of American independence, individuality, integrity and strength. Today everything that carries the Stetson brand, from authentic Westernwear to rugged Actionwear to contemporary Streetwear and timeless classics, stays true to these American values: Make things right and the best they can be. Over 145 years later, Stetson is proud to have maintained a focus on lasting style and legendary quality. This season Stetson charts a course across the open sea. The Spring/Summer 2013 headwear collection is inspired by vintage sailing yachts, rugged maritime equipment, and the romance of a sailorâ€™s untethered lifestyle. Whether your objective is to look dapper at the helm, or shade your eyes while manning the sails, Stetson has a hat that is
sure to get you squared away. Stetson offers a new range of caps made from sun-bleached cottons, chintzed fabrics and chunky woven linens â€“ for a casual look thatâ€™s easy to wear. Cool styles made from authentic vintage sailcloth are not to be missed! The nuances in this mended, rust-stained, and weatherworn material give each cap its own individual character. Further, a collection of fine toyo sun hats and trilbies with handsome nautical-striped trim will ensure that casual passengers and serious crewmembers stay on trend. All hats from the sailing theme are lined with a vintage nautical map print and are marked with a compass rose pin. Every hangtag includes an international maritime signal flag monogram kit for custom personalization. Also the Stetson basics offer a variety of innovations.
LIVING HERITA GE ENTERPRISE ----------------
STOCKMAN is the French creator of busts, dummies and accessories stands with a tradition reaching back as far as 1867, when Fredric Stockman was the first to think it should be possible to standardize the shapes of the human body, and so he categorized the sizes in cloth: 8, 10, 12,…and more. Back then, at a time when only the rich had their tailors and dressmakers, STOCKMAN was a precursor in believing in the burgeoning democratization of clothes and, together with his associate and designer Siegel, he started to manufacture busts and dummies to be
used in the ready-to wear trade and by couturiers. Today, STOCKMAN is the supplier of the most important fashion brands, with a worldwide reputation for producing the most beautiful busts and dummies. Most of the STOCKMAN products, such as dressforms, mannequins, accessories stands, are handmade in Paris. In 2012 the special Award EPV is granted to STOCKMAN for carrying out a French Traditional Industry of Quality. This year again, guided by the same conviction, STOCKMAN keeps in mind the philosophy and spirit of the French Tradition.
ICONIC FOO TWEAR ----------------
Superga® is the iconic footwear brand for sports and leisure time that used the innovative rubber vulcanisation technology for the first time in 1911. Such technology was employed to create footwear for the mass market. The most popular model, 2750, has been produced since 1925: this is the first tennis shoe realized with a rubber sole. Today Superga® shoes can be fully defined as the s hoes of the Italian people, due to their prestige and reputation. The history: The Superga® brand was created on 3 October 1911, when the company Anonima per Azioni Walter
Martiny started producing waterproof rubber-soled boots for agriculture, and vulcanised rubber-soled footwear. In 1934 Superga® counted many models used in sports activities (tennis, basketball, yachting, fitness training). In 1951 the merger with Pirelli improved production to a great extent: between 1952 and 1975 the number of pairs of shoes produced jumped from 2 to 12 million per year. In 1993 Superga® spun off from Pirelli and joined the So.PA.F group until, in February 2004, BasicNet became its sole world licensee and in 2007 acquired its entire stake.
W ORTH HOLDING ONT O ----------------
Tanner Goods --------------Tanner Goods creates modern leather goods that respect the past by combining a design-minded approach to product creation, with a deep commitment to honouring both the product’s material and its intended use, as well as the labor involved in the fabrication. Every piece is produced by hand by a small, diverse team of designers, craftspeople and skilled labourers, all committed to carrying on the tradition of leather craft. They choose carefully, from the materials they use and the suppliers they work with, to the people they hire and partner with, always extending this thoughtful approach to how things are designed, manufactured and utilized for years to come. Their imperative is thinking before acting, with process being the soul of their work. They utilize the same style of tools that have been used to create heritage leather goods for decades, blending classic techniques with modern mechanics
and a little of their own homegrown machine ingenuity to achieve the best possible treatment within each step of production. “Tanner Goods quality starts with the material it is cut from”: they source premium raw materials for every item they make, and from close to home whenever possible. They are commitment to the best quality, most durable product at a fair price. Be it the heavy, waxed cotton twill used in their bags or the English Bridle leather their belts are strapped from, they put everything to the test themselves long before it’s released to the public, thereby ensuring first hand each item’s ability to age beautifully and gain character over time. Tanner Goods products are not over‑ designed and have nothing more than is necessary. This, to them, is the essence of good design and craft. For Tanner Goods, making things is a true labour of the heart.
BL UE JEANS, WITH FOCUS ----------------
Tellason was born three years ago. The founders have been friends for two decades and have always had an affinity for well-crafted and authentic products. After working in the apparel industry for 20 years, it was time they took things into their own hands and made something that reflected their desire to be surrounded by durable goods. A proper pair of jeans was the answer so they took it from there and went out to make a jean that mattered, at least to them. Logic found its way into the equation since San Francisco was the birthplace of denim culture and also the home of the founders. They realized the deep connection between San Fran-
cisco, a vibrant city of great food, art and craftsmen and creating something that represented that part of the world. This is a city with a real understanding of what it takes to make something exceptional, and it was their fortunate circumstance to have some of the most talented raw denim makers in their own backyard. This proximity allows a certain nimbleness that cannot exist when production is half way around the world. Since the beginning, a range of raw jeans for men developed with an absolute focus on fit, fabric integrity and beautiful finishing details, all sourced from the U.S.A.
CONTEMPORARY WITH AN OLD SOUL ----------------
The Last Conspiracy ---------------
Shoes are the foundation on which a style is built. A shoe is like the solid foundation of a construction site, or as the last conspiracy put it: “we provide the foundation, and you bring the style”. Their core values: quality, comfort, innovation, and Scandinavian design. As a counter plot to the overabundance of everything that is today’s world, the last conspiracy create high-quality, comfortable shoes with a lot of attention to details. The last conspiracy shoes are produced in Portugal by skilled craftsmen, trained in the craft of traditional leather shoe-making. The craftsmen in the last conspiracy factory have produced
footwear for decades already, and their experience and knowledge enable them to create shoes with a solid construction that molds perfectly to the foot. Most of the last conspiracy shoes are either Blake-stitched, Norwegian-stitched or Goodyear-welted with triple-layered soles for the ultimate comfort. Design-wise, these beautiful shoes are innovative yet inspired by historic fashion trends: urban silhouettes that have been plucked form the past and transported into the future in an edgy yet classic way; original and extravagant designs, inspired by the Scandinavian aesthetic: clean lines in harmony with simple, sophisticated shapes.
FRENCH PAN ACHE, ORIENTAL RESTRAINT ----------------
Three Animals ---------------
The Three Animals Workshop was founded by Ming Yin, who grew up in China and has lived in Paris for the past decade. The workshop launched its first menswear collection in 2011 under the label of â€œThree Animalsâ€?, inspired by stunning vintage pieces and a nostalgic vision of manhood. The three animals in the brand logo, elephant, camel and goat, represent treasure, free mind, and a classic yet adventurous spirit, respectively. Three Animals is taking an artisan approach to create each piece of its products, be it a jacket or a waistcoat, with modern French flair and panache combined with
classic oriental restraint and attention to detail. The design is unique with an artistic character - a fusion of classical and contemporary styles and the meeting of East and West. The key messages that Three Animals conveys are responsible consumption, cultural and intellectual lifestyle, and independent thinking. The Spring/Summer 2013 collection sees the brand blending the details of vintage masterpieces with brilliant pattern technique and ethnic hand-made fabrics. The colours are rich and delightful, and the focus is on delicate details.
LEGENDARY SKILLS ----------------
Tricker's --------------Tricker’s, founded in 1829 by master shoemaker Joseph Tricker, is one of the oldest family run shoe businesses in the UK. Today the fifth generation of his family still manages to apply the same traditional crafts in the production of the Tricker’s shoes. Originally coming from a background of boot making for army and country purposes, the boot production is still the backbone of the factory. Tricker’s holds the Royal warrant: “By Appointment To His Royal Highness The Prince of Wales Shoe Manufacturers”, and has since the 70s become popular among musicians as well, turning it into the boot maker for kings, pop- and punk stars alike. For over 180 years now, all Tricker’s shoes have been hand made in St. Michael’s Road in Northampton. Here, craftsmen apply their legendary skills to produce both hand-made and benchmade shoes which maintain a standard seldom equalled in the world of Good-
year welted footwear, using only the best available materials, including calf upper leather and oak bark tanned soles to produce their boots, fine dress- and street footwear. The Tricker’s core principles of quality, innovation, durability, skill, style, adventure and success are stitched into every single pair of shoes, no matter if worn on the dance floor, in the Royal household, in the highlands, at festivals or in the saddle! R.E. Tricker’s is a craftsman‘s firm, feeling much obliged to manufacture sustainable products: no „synthetic vintage“ - only the finest calfskins and cowhides secure the wonderful aging process of the Tricker’s products. For S/S13, suedes, multi-tones and colourful leathers are favourites, complemented by soles in contrasting colours, all to be understood in reminiscence of the 80’s Ivy league. Coloured leather linings are a „must have“ for this urban shoe and boot collection.
MADE STRONGER, T O LAST L ONGER ----------------
Viberg Boot ---------------
Est 1931, Viberg is 3rd generation family owned boot company. Based upon the principals set out by Edwin Viberg,
dedicated to using only the best materials available “Made Stronger, Last Longer”
CONTEMPORARY CRAFTSMANSHIP ----------------
Wahts The Underwear Makers ---------------
The underwear makers founded WAHTS, because they simply couldn’t find a premium underwear brand that provides sophisticated men’s underwear that is timeless yet contemporary. WAHTS believes that authentic men hunt for pure quality, whether they look for the impeccably cut trousers, the perfect fitting shirt, the right weight denim or the ultimate pair of shoes. It is a way of defining individuality. According to WAHTS, ‘true style is about personality’. WAHTS is a premium men’s underwear brand that redefines traditional styles. Combining timeless simplicity with contemporary craftsmanship, the underwear makers have designed four distinctive collections to fit each mood or occasion: Denim, Casual, Tailored, Sport. Each collection offers a range of different fits made of high quality fabrics meeting the needs of the individual. To
enhance unpolished masculinity the denim line is crafted with washed fabrics and rugged details. To fit an off mode-mood the casual line is constructed with fashionable colours and contrasting details. To complete a cutting edge business look the tailored line features subtle colours and refined detailing. To accommodate active performances the technical sport line is engineered with seamless technology and functional cotton. The soft stretch elastic waistband has been specially developed by the underwear makers to provide ultimate comfort. Supreme cottons, a double-layered crotch construction, mother of pearl buttons and handcrafted finishing ensure pure quality. The refined labelling and exclusive packaging finish off each piece of underwear made by WAHTS.
MADE T O A STANDARD ----------------
Walk - Over ---------------
With American shoemaking heritage dating back to 1758, George E. Keith established Walk-Over as the first men’s brand name in the United States. Through Mr. Keith’s vision, energy and innovation, Walk-Over built its foundation on quality craftsmanship and personal service. To this day, Walk-Over continues to advocate comfort and durability in its footwear by balancing modern techno‑ logy and classic design while keeping Mr. Keith’s values intact. One of the rare success stories of the American
shoe industry, Walk-Over always creates shoes, “Made to a standard, not a price.” Today, Walk-Over is known for its contemporary play on American classics. Walk-Over has redefined iconic American styles with a modern last and cutting edge design. For Spring 2013, Walk-Over will experiment with a lot of colour and light‑ weight materials. 250 years and counting, Walk-Over shoes are still manufactured in the United States and they’re emble‑ matic of America’s creative, entrepreneurial, and can-do spirit.
FINEST OUTDOOR GEAR ----------------
The Wiggy’s project started back in 1995 during a visit in New York City. The idea started at a local pub when Johan chatted with a former combat pilot of the U.S. Air Force, who had been rescued in a bailout mission in the Rocky Mountains. The pilot was rescued from a river during a blizzard and according to him the sleepingbag that was includes in the survival kit of the airplane saved his life, a sleepingbag with an insulation called Lamilite. The story about the sleepingbag that saved his life made a great impression on Johan and gave birth to the idea of making warm jackets based on the very same Lamilite® insulation. The Wiggy’s philosophy is to
create garments that are both contemporary and timeless, with updated iconic designs with modern tweaks and topof-the-line materials. The garments are technical and functional for an everyday life in the city and its surroundings. All of the materials used are carefully selected to ensure a top-of-the-line quality in every Wiggy’s product. The Wiggy’s goal is to make jackets for the everyday user, but still with a function that sets them apart from the rest of the competition. Together with the leading producers and skilled craftsmen they found a way to make it happen, and here is the result – Enjoy!
For the perfect moment ----------------
windsor. crafts tomorrow’s design for people who live today, for those who do not need a mirror to see that they`ve arrived. The windsor. brand combines self-confidence with understatement. Those who wear windsor. have poise, value quality and contemporary style. This is why windsor. combines a keen sense of classic style with a feel for the times in which we live. The result is a distinctive and timeless style. windsor. people are curious. They feel at home all over the world. They have a feeling for understated style, for exciting characters and sophisticated elegance. Those who wear windsor. have seen the world and found their style. This style no longer changes, more over: develops. For over a century windsor. has worked with the best designers, tailors
and fabric suppliers. This has made it a successful premium brand for men and women. Having internalised the know‑ ledge that apparel must not be only a visual sensation but also a sensuous pleasure, the windsor. collections capti‑ vate with the elegant ease of their premium Italian fabrics and their distinctive cuts, rounded off by confident tailoring perfection and craftsmanship. For windsor. fashion is not a product, but a small work of art that needs to be treasured and respected. The windsor. lifestyle is at home across the world. The brand is already well known in European cities, now expanding worldwide and continues to develop by adding new product groups. windsor. aims to develop its own lifestyle world – a unique lifestyle that will be recognized worldwide.
REINVENTED BRITISH CLASSICS ----------------
Established in 1755, Wolsey is the original British knitwear brand, one with an impressive aesthetic to match its otherwise unrivalled credentials. Wolsey has clothed some of Britain’s bravest and most inspirational men: explorers, soldiers, pioneers and royalty. Today Wolsey continues to craft exceptional clothing for men of exploration and adventure. Wolsey’s collections are heritage inspired and detail focused, drawing on an extensive archive, an abundance of garments that mirror modern British experiences, from military clothing to the foundations of contemporary sportswear. Within the Wolsey range, the Wolsey 1755 label offers premium options which perfectly complement the
collection. Spring/Summer 2013 sees the brand take inspiration from the Wolsey factory worker, mixing updated workwear with vintage tailoring. The military, uniform trend continues and the British seaside adds another dimension with the spirit of ruggedness and adventure. Wolsey takes the best of vintage authenticity to create a hardwearing, purposeful and contemporary collection… ‘a return to masculinity with‑ out artifice’. Skillfully led by Creative Director Richard Bengtsson and motivated by an incredible archive, Wolsey has re-invented British classics to craft a stand out collection, distinguishing it as a genuinely contemporary British clothing brand.
A MODERN CLASSIC ----------------
Wolverine 1000 Mile Collection --------------In 1883, G.A. Krause founded the Hirth-Krause Company in Rockford, MI. He was a third generation leather tanner and boot maker who prided himself on creating finely tanned leathers which in turn created comfortable and durable footwear. Krause’s best selling model was the Wolverine 1000 Mile Shoe. The first of its kind, the Wolverine 1000 Mile Shoe was created in a time when hard-working men were looking for authentic craftsmanship and footwear that would last. With a special tanning process using shell horsehide, this shoe offered superior comfort and durability. Advertised as comfortable enough to “give you 1,000 miles of wear,” it became a wardrobe staple for men of the 20th century. Paying homage to Wolverine’s beginnings, the 1000 Mile Collection is based on original designs from Wolverine’s archives. Composed of four key collections – the cornerstone Original collection with the 1000 Mile
Boot, the Gentlemen Collection inspired by original workingman designs from the 1930s and 1940s, the Garrison Collection inspired by work and military boots, and the Gentry collection that showcases Wolverine’s history of creating high-end boots for the outdoorsmen – the Wolverine 1000 Mile Collection continues Wolverine’s century-long heritage of providing comfort, durability, function and style. The Spring 2013 line features many new made-in-the-USA styles such as the Loomis, a tailored brogue oxford with a Horween® Chamois leather upper; the Krause, a 6-inch cap-toe boot with Horween® Dublin leather; the Lantham, a desert chukka featuring a leather outsole with a rubber heel and forepart, as well as the Whitepine, a 6-inch boot featuring a leather upper with canvas panels. All made-in-USA styles feature Horween leather uppers and Goodyear Welt construction.
l.o .c.k. Labels of common Kin BREAD & BUTTER BERLIN have a successful season!
Published on Jun 19, 2012
L.O.C.K. is the destination and source for heritage signature brands and authentic contemporary newcomers sharing their passion for craftsma...